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CONTENTS

TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR Andreas Sigurdsson andreas@myanmore.com

MANAGING EDITOR Bob Percival editor@myanmore.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Sondang Grace Sirait San Lin Tun Tet Ka Tho Soe Moe Naing Bob Percival Connor Macdonald Hongsar Rachel Wong Cliff Lonsdale Amanda Win Vickie Robert Berg Twinkle

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Gerhard Jörén www.gerhardjoren.com

PHOTOGRAPHY & ARTWORK Hong Sar Gerhard Jörén Philip Jablon Bob Percival

ART & PRODUCTION Kyaw Kyaw Tun

PUBLISHER U Myo Aung (Permanent No.00315) InDepth MYANMORE Magazine 1st Floor, Annex Building, Strand Hotel, 92 Strand Road, Yangon

PRINTER Shwe Naing Ngan Press Permit No: 00296/00371 No.90(C), Kabar Aye Pagoda Rd., Bahan Tsp., Yangon.

SALES

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STREETS OF YANGON 20th Street - classic wonton soup, retro flashing light shrines, and the abandoned May Kai Laundary

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ARTS Controversial visual and performance artist Moe Satt talks about his influences

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COVER STORY Burmese entrepreneur Aung Kyaw Moe tels of his uphill battle to become CEO of online payments company 2C2P

Nagaland to talk to the Naga people

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TRANSLATION The second episode of teh original Shwe U-Daung story, A Murder On Pandodan Street - starring the Burmese Sherlock Holmes, San Shar

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PHOTO ESSAY The Southeast Asia Movie Theatre Project documenting Myanmars disappearing movie theatre culture

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TRAVEL

22

ARTS Profile of surrealist poet Maung Day and his Sick Projector project

Photographer Hongsar sets out on the long journey to

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SOCIAL ENTERPRISE Ngwe Tun, founder of Genius Coffee Estate introduces social responsibilty to the coffe trade in Myanmar

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FASHION Taylah Thiri Kyaw, the creative mind behind Poise Couture

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BISTRONOMY Bulgogi Brothers, Astons Steakhouse, Sorabol Korean, and Imperial Garden @ Myanmar Plaza

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HOROSCOPE Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing predicts your fortune for March.

sales@myanmore.com 01 375 680. Contact us on indepth@myanmore.com

DISCLAIMER No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from the Managing Director. All details are deemed correct at the time of print, the editor, employees and contributors can not be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that might occur.

ABOUT MYANMORE MYANMORE® is a registered brand, produced by Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited and the leading lifestyle platform in Yangon. In addition to InDepth®, MYANMORE® provides www. myanmore.com, city maps, a privilege card, the Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt® and KnowIt®. The mission is to create great content and experiences for visitors and residents of Yangon.

DISTRIBUTION Find InDepth at Jasper House, Manhattan Fish Market, Chatime, Yoogane (Pearl Condo), Yangon Bakehouse, Summit Parkview Hotel, Pun Hlaing Golf Estate, Harley´s and many more places in Yangon and hotels around Myanmar. Contact us to have it distributed to your doorstep every month.

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 3


WHAT'S ON EVENTS

11TH MARCH Big Bag, Count the Thief |  Art & Stage Count the Thief will be featuring with Big Bag this coming 11th March. This will be one of the highlight concerts of the year. Both bands play memorable sets and together will create a world beyond. Information about venue and tickets will be updates soon. Please stay tuned with MYANMORE! People's Park and People's Square Pyay Road | FROM 6 PM

Orchestra for Myanmar and the new Children’s Choir in Concert |  Art & Stage The Orchestra for Myanmar, now in its second year, brings together musicians from a number of organisations and institutions including the AOC orchestra, Gitameit Music Centre, University of Arts and Culture, MIT, Ame Gita and MRTV. Leading proceedings will be presenter extraordinaire Susana Galvan, and conducting will be Saw James Hsar Doe Soe and Sebastian See-Schierenberg. FREE ENTRY - FIRST COME FIRST SERVED! Strand Hotel - 92 Strand Rd, Kyauktada Tsp (Next to the British Embassy) | FROM 7:00 PM

12TH MARCH LOVE Outdoor Screenings |  Art & Stage The British Club Outdoor Screenings are back by popular demand!!! FREE and ALL WELCOME. Once a month we will be showing a ballet, musical and opera based around the theme of LOVE. The dazzling, sexy and moving Opera, 'CARMEN' by Georges Bizet. British Embassy Club - 46 Gyo Byu Road, Yangon | FROM 7:00 PM

The Sunset Boat Party |  Nightlife Join us as we sail down the Irrawaddy to pulsing beats under the setting sun. The Boat Party will bring together 3 DJs, DJ YU KT, DJ KARL ROSS, DJ ADAM GARTON, with swelling beats from House Music to Gypsy, Breaks to Hip Hop and Electro. 15000 Ks (and one free beer) No tickets needed - Just turn up! Botahtaung Harbour - Botathaung Pagoda Rd | 5:15 PM - 8:15 PM

Françoise Demulder, Laurent Van der Stockt, Noel Quidu, etc… Last but not least, we will welcome the famous eminent German photographer Hans Silvester.

For more detail, visit WWW.MYANMORE.COM

Join for the Inaugural Friends of Pun Hlaing International School Annual Charity Golf Tournament. Pun Hlaing Golf Estate at 10:30am and Dinner and Award Ceremony at 6:30pm. Golf and Dinner: $85 and Dinner only: $35! RSVP before March 15 at golf@punhlaingschool. com.

16TH - 25TH MARCH

Pun Hlaing Golf Estate - Hlaing Tharyar Township, Yangon |  10:30 AM

Yangon Photo Night Event: Screenings & Award Ceremony at 19th March, 6pm at IFB.

Jewellery from the Bush |  Art

An Evening with Hans Silvester Exhibitions, Screenings and Talk |  Art & Activities

Exhibition by Hans Silvester - OPENING on Saturday 6PM.

OPENING & TALK on Wednesday 16th March on 6.30 to 8.30 pm.

Silvester's first work with the Suri and Mursi people of the Omo Valley in southern Ethiopia feature the beauty of the tribes' ancient tradition of temporary body decoration. His photographs reveal the use of bright mineral paints to embellish the skin and the use of flora and fauna to fashion spectacular headpieces and body accessories

Hans Silvester exhibits the symbiotic brotherhood between cows and young boys in the African Suri tribe while Ko Myo and Thet Htoo show us the love/hate relationship between humans and elephants. Silvester talks about his work on environmental issues in parallel with other screenings by Lu Guang , Vlad Sokhin, Minzayar, Pyi Phone Maung and Sai Htin Linn Htet.

12TH - 22ND MARCH

River Gallery - 38th Street (beside Strand Hotel), Kyauktada Tsp, Yangon

12TH - 31ST MARCH 8th Yangon Photo Festival: Eyewitness: Myanmar by Myanmar Photographers Under the patronage of Daw Aung San Suu Kyi, the Yangon Photo Festival (YPF) has become one of the main international yearly events in Myanmar. This year YPF also introduces three exceptional international events. First, World Press Photo, the most popular travelling photo event in the world. Next, the 50th anniversary exhibition of GAMMA, the prestigious photo agency associated with so many famous photojournalists: Gilles Caron, Raymond Depardon, Sebastiao Salgado, Eric Bouvet,

4 InDepth Magazine / March 2016

PHIS Charity Golf Tournament |  Sports

SPECTRUM |  Nightlife Duwun is proud to bring a completely new concept to Yangon. YangonYangon rooftop is a playground for all of you stylish gents, divas and socialites. Expect international DJs, glitter cannons, light shows, red carpet entrance, and a few surprises. For packages and ticket bookings, contact Karl: 09973274573 YangonYangon Rooftop Bar - 339, Bo Gyoke Aung San Road, Yangon | From 8:30 PM

18 - 20TH MARCH

Co-organized with Goethe-Institut Myanmar. Goethe Villa - Ko Min Ko Chin St, Bahan Tsp, Yangon

18TH MARCH ONE: Union of Warriors |  Sports Mixed Martial Arts fans from Myanmar are in for a real treat. For the first time ever, Aung La N Sang, the man known as “The Burmese Python” and the world’s most renowned mixed martial artist to ever come from Myanmar, will fight in his home country at Yangon’s Thuwanna Indoor Stadium against Mohamed Ali of Egypt. For detail and Ticket, visit MYANMORE.COM Thuwanna Indoor Stadium - Wai Za Yan Tar St | FROM 6:30 PM

SunBoxx Beach Party |  Nightlife Love sand and travel? Imagine a weekend with party buses, pool parties, free flow sangria, sundown sessions and global DJs spinning the latest in international electronic dance music on the beach until 6am,


WHAT'S ON all at Ngwe Saung’s #1-rated hotel. If that sounds like your idea of awesome, grab your tickets to SunBoxx now! Email for more information to dbparties.myanmar@gmail.com. Eskala Hotels & Resorts - Ngwe Saung Beach, Myanmar

Pyay Road, Yangon | FROM 3:30 PM

Tin Zar Maw, One Lady Night at Mandalay |  Art & Stage

more information: 09250142470.

Electro RAVE Party YGN |  Nightlife

Mingalar Mandalay - 73rd St, Bet Mingalar 2nd & 3rd road, Chanmyatarzi, Mandalay | From 6:00 PM

The Corriander Leaf Yangon Building No 12, Yangon International Hotel Compound, Ahlone Road, Ahlone Township, Yangon | 7:00 PM

21ST MARCH Goût de / Good France |  Dining Enjoy & share the taste of France. Indulge in a special French set menu, US$50. Partial proceeds to FXB Myanmar. Advanced booking is recommended on this special occasion. Contact: H9045-FB6@accor.com Le Cellier - Novotel Yangon Max, 14th floor, 459 Pyay Road, Yangon | From 6:30 pm

26TH MARCH Myanmar Colour Festival |  Nightlife Mesmerising plumes of powder will create tremendous colourful clouds, on a euphoric day of music and dance. All ages are welcome to People’s Park to enjoy the indescribable atmosphere of music, food, colour and the unforgettable feeling of togetherness they bring. For more details visit WWW.MYANMORE.COM People's Park and People's Square -

Magical March @ Sule Shangri-La |  Dining

RSVP at (01) 242828, Ext. 6401, 6402 restaurantreservations. ssyn@shangri-la.com 223 Sule Pagoda Road, Yangon

A One Lady Show performed by the lady artist Tin Zar Maw. Ticket : VIP, 20,000 Ks, 10,000 Ks

19TH MARCH

The Electra Entertainment present Yangon’s Indoor Rave Party with the hottest local DJs to you guys (10% of the the profit will go as charity). Tickets are available at - Music Box, CRAFT Cafe Myanmar, Chic & Chic Fashion, Juize Music Center

PROMOTIONS

26 - 27TH MARCH Breathe, Sweat, Surrender with Levi Banner | Sport Join Levi Banner (E-500 RYT, Resident Yoga Guru at The Yoga Barn in Bali) for two delicious workshops at Yangon Yoga House: March 26, 2 5 PM: Vinaysa & Restoraitve, March 27, 2 - 5 PM: Prayanama and Yoga Nidra. Yangon Yoga House - Yankin Lan Thwe (1), Yangon | 2:00 PM 5:00 PM

31ST MARCH Postcard Sized Photography Competition, Theme – ‘Women of a Changing Myanmar’ | Art The British Embassy Club is proud to announce that we will be running a photography competition throughout March and April to raise awareness and money for the charity, Girl Determined. Entries will be made into postcard sized prints for sale at the British Club. The theme for the images is “Women of a Changing Myanmar”. Deadline for the competition is 31st March. Please submit your photographs via the Facebook page or email them to britishclubevents@gmail.com. A donation of 5000 Ks when viewing is suggested. The postcard photographs will be available to buy at 5000 Ks. Final date for submissions: 31st March 2016.

Refined Dining Throughout March @ Chatrium Hotel - Celebrate Easter at Café Sule (Lobby Level) Date: 27th of March. Hop on over for a special Easter Brunch! Line up for an international style buffet with free flow wine, beer and soft drinks. It’s going to be a great day for everyone as fun activities will be lined up for the kids a swell. US$36 per person. - Japanese Medley at Café Sule Konbanwa! Your favourite Thursday Night feast is getting bigger and better. The feast continues with our revamped Japanese dinner buffet for the same price of US$35 per person.

- Brazilian Buffet Dinner (Every Friday to Sunday) @ The Emporia Restaurant Winner of the best hotel buffet in MYANMORE Dining & Nightlife Awards 2016 US$30 per person! Explore Brazilian BBQ and a wide variety of appetizers, salads, soups, hot dishes, seafood, clams, desserts, fresh fruits and juices. Includes a complimentary glass of Brazilian Caipirinha Cocktail Wine, Beer or Soft Drink. Brazilian live music by Famous Guitarist. - A La Carte Buffet Dinner (Daily) at Tiger Hill Chinese Restaurant

- Indian Platter at the Gallery Bar (All of March)

Winner of the best Chinese restaurant in MYANMORE Dining & Nightlife Awards 2016

Treat yourself to a gastronomic feast! Gallery Bar’s Indian Platter comes with chicken kebabs, mutton kofta, vegetable samosas and chapatti for US$12 per person. Bollywood costumes optional.

US$26 per couple. For exceptional Chinese cuisine, look no further than Tiger Hill Chinese Restaurant. Offering menus from a la carte dim sum menus to beautiful dinner buffets.

- Healthy Juices at the Peacock Lounge (All of March)

- Delue Buffet Dinner (Every Friday to Sunday) @ Kohaku Japanese Restaurant

Drink as much as you want, it grows on trees! Fill yourself with our menu of healthy juices packed with nutrients for US$5 per drink. - Suckling Pig at the Summer Palace (All of March) Eat like a Han Dynasty Emperor! Our very own Chef Pang is at the top of his game with his signature suckling pig recipe. Don’t be left out!

Winner of the best Japanese restaurant in MYANMORE Dining & Nightlife Awards 2015 US$40 per couple. Treat your taste buds to exquisite sushi, sashimi and many more delicious delights. RSVP at (01)544 500 or fb.chry@ chatrium.com No 40 Natmauk Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 5


STREETS OF YANGON

20TH STREET Bob Percival explores the streets of downtown and finds the a classic wonton soup, retro shrines, and the abandoned May Kai Laundary.

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inter has almost finished but there is still that morning coolness in the air. The humidity and burning heat of summer will soon be here. Today I am walking with my musician friend Lyn Nanadar Htoo, who lives uptown in Sanchaung. It’s cold enough that the drivers are still curled up asleep under blankets on their trishaws. We are in the lower block, just off Strand Road, and once again in the heart of Chinatown. Over the doorway to the X-Gym Fitness is written ‘SOO TEE HONG’, a family Chinese temple that lies on the top floor. Just up the street at No.17 you will find a dilapidated circa 1910 building, blue with rosette wood-framed windows and Chinese signboard. The building inside and outside is a complete disaster but worth looking at for the adventurous. On the right side of the street is No, 24A, a classic 1936 building with ornate ironwork. Just opposite is a very clean and cheap guesthouse, the 20th Street Hotel. The terraces Nos. 25, 27, 29 & 31, provide an interesting architectural streetscape of traditional Chinese wooden shutter residences and a Bombay colonial style terrace with original wooden railings still intact, very rare in downtown. At No. 35 there is a traditional Chinese residence, about 70 years old. The family has been living here for fifty years, the grandparents having migrated from mainland China. The family attends the Kheng Hock Keong Temple down on Strand Road. They are only too happy to talk. No. 42, a three-storey old residence, is very much alive. Here lives Kyaw Win

Soe, and his father U Myint Thein and brother U Zaw Win. Their whole loungeroom is taken up with a magnificent late-1940s shrine, to the high monk Shin Oo Pa Gote, who was able to stop the sun just before noon so as to let people eat. The Shrine was brought over from Penang, flashing retro lights and all. On the 1st October the family holds a festival of vegetarian food for nine days. All welcome, seriously! At No. 48 there is great ramshackle building with an very eclectic antique display, falling out into the street – just for show, nothing for sale. No. 55 has beautiful green ceramic tiles and rare painted frescos. At No, 57 there is one of the rare authentic local Chinese restaurants – magnificent wonton soup on offer for 1500 Ks. Crossing Mahabandoola to the upper block there is the Guanyin Gumiao Temple, founded by the Cantonese community in 1823, and dedicated to the goddess Guanyin. There are also numerous Burmese traditional street buffet eating places. The building you see that is fronted by red & white barriers (with razor wire) is the Lattha No. 3 Basic Primary School. The BII0 Bar is also here, a modern ‘tardis’ placed in the centre of Chinatown. At No. 109 there is a large Han ideogram written above the door inside, marking the victory of the Han over the Manchu warriors. Take a good look. Near the end of the block on the right side look out for a beautiful wooden signboard from now defunct ‘MAY KHA LAUNDARY’. The May Kha River is the famous source of the mighty Ayeyarwaddy River. On the top corner you will find more Burmese buffet eating-places. Enjoy!

6 InDepth Magazine / March 2016


Photos: Hong Sar

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 7


ART

THE SMILING DISSIDENT:

HOW MYANMAR'S MILITARY SHAPED THE ART OF MOE SATT BY CONNOR MACDONALD

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itting cross-legged on the tiled floor of his nondescript studio apartment on Strand Road, Moe Satt tells me he's been living in this area, across the road from Botahtaung harbour, his whole life. This is his neighbourhood. “In 2008, I did a performance on this street. In front of my Grandma's house…” he says tapping the floor. “That night I was really sure I was going to be sleeping in the police station. I had a really long shower because I didn't know how many years it would be before I was in my house again,” he says, followed with a burst of laughter and trademark toothy grin. Moe Satt explains how for his 25th birthday he wanted to do something special. He and two friends arranged an afternoon street performance on Strand Road in front of his Grandma's house. They wore nothing but underwear, and wrapped themselves in fishnets. They stuck passport photos all over their bodies, and cradled large fish to their chests. His friend yelled out to the crowd, “Last night I had a dream, my skin was covered in scales!” This performance took place just a few months after cyclone Nargis had devastated the Ayeyarwady region of Myanmar, claiming at least 140,000 lives. “People understood what we were doing. This was a few months after cyclone Nargis when no one would eat fish any more because the fish ate all of the bodies,” he says

Installation view of Five Questions to Society where I live by Moe Satt (2)

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Moe Satt represented Myanmar as one of 6 nominated finalists in the 2015 Hugo Boss Asia Art Award for Emerging Asian Artists at the Rock-


ART

bund Art Museum (RAM). He says, “the award aims to honour emerging contemporary artists who are in the early stages of their artistic creation and exhibition practices.” In the exhibition at the RAM, his work was shown alongside his contemporaries from China, the Philippines and Cambodia.

jury Director Larys Frogier, Moe Satt and his contemporary, Maung Day. The discussion covered much of Moe Satt's work and at one point Maung Day told the audience that much of his work comes from anger. Later on, back at his apartment, I asked him what Maung Day meant by that.

Moe Satt started his artistic career in graphic design at university, but for the past eight years he's been well-known for his work as a performance artist. Since the beginning he's relished the simplicity and the rawness of his body as a medium – with this, there's no filter between him and the audience.

He says, “The anger comes from pressure. Political pressure and social pressure. It’s been there since I was born because I grew up under the Junta – it was a really hard time,”

“When I use my body I can control everything. I like to push the limits of my body … I closed the gallery and moved out into the street.” Moe Satt likes to use his body and public space as his medium because they are “visible and subversive” resources, but it's equally about the practicality and economics of not needing equipment, and the ability to perform spontaneously. Incorporating the audience is something which he feels is pivotal to his work. He constantly seeks to challenge the viewer, to elicit a response from the audience, whether it's one of disgust or elation. In 2009, Moe Satt did a performance at Sein Lan So Pyay Garden in Yangon, called Smiles, he handed out coloured ping-pong balls to the audience and told them to draw on smiley faces. They were then instructed to sticky-tape the coloured ping pong balls to Moe Satt’s face. Moe Satt tells of how in his performance he glided around the park, face covered in ping pong balls, all the while under the ever-present gaze of stone faced men; members of the notorious 'Special Branch'. “At the time the country was changing. In 2008 the Myanmar was still under the military but there was this feeling that the country would change … On November the 12th, The French Institute in Yangon hosted a panel discussion with RAM Director and Chair of the HUGO BOSS ASIA ART

Another work from Moe Satt, Five Questions To Society Where I Live, is an evolving piece. Using plaster cast hands and script written in neon lights, Moe Satt poses five questions facing a society undergoing a significant social and political transition. In the 2010-2014 version Moe Satt constantly posed the same questions: “R U Ok?”; “R U Good?”; “R U Peace?” but it evolved in 2015 with the additions of: “R U Against the Junta?” and “R U Voting?”. With the elections imminent he included the three-fingered hand gesture made famous in the adventure novel and hollywood movie, The Hunger Games – a gesture of rebellion – to ask “R U Against the Junta?”. Moe Satt says there has been a change in Myanmar's art scene since the end of almost six decades of military rule in 2010. It's no longer necessary to limit spontaneous public performances to ten minutes for fear of being arrested by the Special Branch; the scene has suffered somewhat from the tentativeness of artists brought about by their new found freedom of expression. “Under the Junta we saw a lot of strong pieces, now in the transition period we are seeing less. In the past it was very easy to be a 'political artist', if you drew a portrait of Aung San Suu Kyi people would label you a 'political artist',” He adds, “You have to take a lot more responsibility for what you say. What is it about the government you're criticising? Lack of infrastructure? You have to be detailed, nowadays artists wait to digest everything. They have to do that if they are going to be critical”

The anger directed towards the repressive social and political conditions seen in the earlier work of Moe Satt, now manifests itself in different ways. Since the transition, the focus of his art has been on Myanmar's history, particularly that of the censorship; his current focus is on the attempts by the former military regime to eliminate General Aung San from the public lexicon by removing him from denominations of the Kyat note. “Maung Day asked me, why aren't you living in the present? It's comes down to if you want to go forward, you have to know your history which is why I've turned my focus to the 80s and 90s … ” Hands Around In Yangon - 2012, one of the pieces on exhibition at RAM in Shanghai, is a hypnotising reflection on life under decades of military rule. In the video piece, the camera focuses on the hands of working people who have established their livelihoods amid the mosaic that are the streets of Yangon. The familiar street scenes make for a visual and audial overload – the counting of money, the scraping out of the flesh of a coconut, the cutting of fingernails. The images of the hands effortlessly performing ordinary acts of labour to the backdrop of conversations and the sounds of life in Yangon, provide a stark contrast to the environment in which they are situated. “These scenes are pretty unique, they are unique to Myanmar, because in developing countries the people still have to use their hands,” says Moe Satt Moe Satt tells me that in the past ten years Myanmar's art's scene has come a long way. Ten years ago Myanmar's artists wouldn't get invites to 'regional' exhibitions. When he used to question the curators as to why Myanmar had no representation in contemporary 'regional' exhibitions the response was often that they didn't know Myanmar produced anything other than traditional art. “We were on the margins… no one knew what was going on in Myanmar.”

Visual and performance artist, Moe Satt

When I use my body I can control everything. I like to push the limits of my body …

He says there's still a long way to go but hopes that one of the results of the election will be the development of an Artist's Council. He laughs and says eventually he'd like to see a Contemporary Art Museum too but admits that may be decades down the track. In terms of raising the profile and importance of Myanmar's art scene, he feels it's the job of local artists to go out and educate the public but journalists and the media also have a role to play. He'd like to see the cultural pages of local newspapers filled with discussions of local contemporary artists rather than celebrities. “How do we measure development? We can measure how developed a country is with the number of big buildings and material things we can see, but it's artists who hold a prominent position in a truly developed society,” he says.

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 9


COVER STORY

AUNG KYAW MOE

THINK BIG, WORK HARD, BE HUMBLE BY BEN HOPKINS Burmese entrepreneur Aung Kyaw Moe, founder and CEO of online payments company 2C2P, fought an uphill battle to be taken seriously by Thailand’s finance sector when he first unveiled his payments security system in 2003. Thirteen years later, 2C2P is established in nine countries throughout Southeast Asia and handles over two billion US dollars per annum in business to business transactions. InDepth caught up with the 41-year-old father of two at his office in central Bangkok to trace his unlikely rise to success and discover his ambition to build an international standard school for the less privileged in Myanmar.

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very business starts with an idea, but how do you turn your product or service into a viable business? Research is key: finding out who your potential customers are and whether there is a genuine demand for what you’re offering. Equally important is a sense of steely determination and a ‘never say die’ attitude, personality traits that the affable Aung Kyaw Moe has in abundance. “When I arrived in Bangkok (1999) I had nothing; my visa application for the UK had been rejected and I had no business contacts or money. But my adrenaline level was running high and I was determined to survive,” he says.

Making the right moves As the son of civil servants growing up in Yangon, Aung developed a lifelong passion for chess from the age of 12. “Chess helped me to concentrate and focus”, he says. “I would study the chess manuals and memorize the games of the grand masters”. Success in local tournaments was reflected in his academic achievements. After completing years one and two of a UK degree syllabus at Yangon’s KMD college he was offered a position teaching computers at its sister campus in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. The experience left a strong impact on Aung. “Back then (98 - 99) there

Photo by Gerhard Joren

10 InDepth Magazine / March 2016


COVER STORY

were guns everywhere in Phnom Penh. I remember my students driving to college with AK47’s on the back seat,” he laughs, “when the police stopped them, my students, who were mostly rich kids, didn’t show them their license, they showed them their guns.” After a year and a half in Cambodia’s ‘wild frontier’ Aung travelled west to the Thai capital, Bangkok. His plan was to complete the third year of his degree in England, but his hopes were crushed when his UK visa application was refused. Alone and low on funds, did he consider returning home to Yangon? “No, not once. After the visa rejection I became more determined than ever to survive.” Using the IT skills he’d gained in Yangon he did what many a Burmese traveler has done before him: began knocking on doors and looking for opportunities wherever they arose. After an anxious few weeks Aung secured work with Juris Asia, a French IT company that specialised in developing search engines for international companies interested in investing in Thailand. It was here he met his soon to be Thai wife, Aun, a lawyer who translated legal documents from Thai into English. In Aung’s opinion Juris Asia’s business plan, “was a good idea, but it was too early”. Online systems of payment were still in their infancy in the early 2000’s and the company was struggling to survive. Rather than go down with a sinking ship Aung made the bold decision to start his own company, SinaptIQ. “It was April 2003” he says, “I was now married with a new born son, he was my motivation to go it alone and make my business successful”. Aung’s breakthrough came when he designed a payment security system that would protect Visa card information in a bank's DMZ zone. “It took a long time to sell,” he says. “Nobody took me seriously, I was only 26, Burmese and presenting myself as the CEO of a company I’d just set up,” he recalls. “A lot of the bankers laughed at me as they showed me the door".

Eventually the Bank of Asia agreed to give it a trial run, buying it for the measly fee of one Thai Baht. When the security system was proven to be effective all the bank's who'd ejected the product made a dramatic u-turn, buying into the security system for fees considerably higher than one Thai Baht. Was he angry? “No, there was no time for anger, my focus was on getting good tuition for my son. Every time I got pushed back I would close my eyes, see his face and try harder”.

I want to prove that these kids can be just as successful as the wealthy if they’re given an equal chance.

The runaway success of the security system may well have left more than a few of Bangkok’s finance executives red faced and humbled.

From technologist to businessman The arrival of Aung’s daughter in 2006 coincided with his enrolment in an EMBA program at Sasin, Bangkok’s Chulalangkorn University’s well respected business school. The move proved to be a turning point for the technologist. “Before going to Sasin I was ridiculously bad at the business side of things. I had no people skills and needed to speak the language of investors and the business community”. By his own admission he also became, “more mature and less aggressive”. While attending Sasin a visiting professor named Douglas Abrams encouraged him to move the company’s headquarters to Singapore and to think beyond Thailand. In 2008 2C2P was established and registered in Singapore. “People often think of PayPal when 2C2P is talked about”, says Aung. “The big difference is we only deal with business to business transactions, not the private customer. It’s very simple, when a business buys something online we settle the payments and deposit the money to the seller’s account, taking a cut from each transaction”. The following years have seen the exponential rise of 2C2P in its bid to become the dominant online business to business payments system for Southeast Asia: retail conglomerates, airlines, hotels and just about any industry that trades online fall under the potential scope of 2C2P.

So what next, world domination? “Definitely not. Around the world in every region they have their own established systems for online payments, except in our region. In Southeast Asia the pay and processing landscape is still developing. We are still solving problems and aim to be the number one pay processor in Southeast Asia”. Aung insists there’s plenty of cause for optimism, “The 10 countries of Southeast Asia comprise a huge and growing market. There are 600 million people in this region and overall the economy is growing at 3 to 4%. In Europe it’s growing at 1%, in the US, South America and Africa below 1%. Even China and India are slowing down right now”, he says before adding, “as we speak we’re processing between 300 to 500 transactions per minute, money is moving and our revenue has been doubling year on year”.

Future plans It’s all a far cry from when the teenage Aung was working night shifts as a butler in Yangon’s colonial Strand Hotel to pay his way through college. “Every time I delivered a lobster it was US$35”, Aung recalls. “I didn’t know how the guy I was serving could pay for it. At the time my salary was US$7 a month, so for me I was scared of dropping the plate”. Was he angry at the wealth disparity? “No, I knew exactly how I felt, not anger but puzzlement, I really wanted to understand how this rich

European guy staying in a room for US$300 a night and ordering lobster could afford it.” Today, Aung understands well both the nature of wealth creation and wealth disparity. He’s also passionate that everyone should get an equal chance to prove their abilities, with this his thoughts return to Myanmar. “When I meet successful businessmen from Asia they always ask which (expensive) international school did I attended? When I tell them I didn’t, I went to a normal state school in Yangon they act surprised,” he says. “My dream is to open an international standard school in Myanmar, where kids from modest backgrounds get the same level of education as kids who go to expensive schools,” he says. “I want to prove that these kids can be just as successful as the wealthy if they’re given an equal chance. I’ll fund it myself, bringing in foreign teachers and creating the best education standards.” More than a pipe dream, Aung plans to begin this project in five years or so, around the same time he predicts 2C2P will become the dominant online payment system throughout Southeast Asia.

The end game In his office Aung lays out a hand crafted teak-wood Burmese chess set and talks of how the theories of chess have helped him in his life as an entrepreneur, “Sometimes you have to move a few paces back to move forward, other times you sacrifice the pawn to get to the king.” He prefers to play the black pieces and admits to sympathy for the bad guys and the underdogs, the types of characters he plainly wants to reach out to and help. Setting out as an underdog himself, what would be his advice for those who’d also like to emerge from behind the chain of pawns and strike it big? “Work hard, think big, be humble.” Perhaps that’ll be the motto for his future school!

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 11


TRAVEL

JOURNEY TO NAGA HILL BY HONGSAR Naga are the ethnic people living between Myanmar and India border. Most of the Naga are settled in hill territory. On the Myanmar side they are located in the Sagaing region. Photographer Hongsar sets out on the long journey northwest to cover their story. Photo by Hongsar

12 InDepth Magazine / March 2016


TRAVEL

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 13


TRAVEL

J

anuary 9, 2016: We left Yangon on the night bus for the eight and half hour journey to Mandalay, and arrived early morning, got some tea, then a taxi to the airport. At around 9:00am the flight left for Hkamti township. Hkamti is small town and the air is cool, around 18 degrees. Motorbikes were rented, plus driver, and all our gear packed. We crossed over the Chindwin River and started our mountain journey. The motorbike taxi driver sped very fast on the ravine roads, going up and down along the mountain. After one and half hours we looked and were so scared to see the high mountan road we had just passed. The signs on the top of mountain read ‘5000 feet above sea level’. By this time we were freezing. In the evening, four hours after leaving Hkamti we finally arrived at Lahel township. We slept there one night and early the next morning we kept going along the mountain for three hours till we reached a small village, where all the houses were made from bamboo, with a leaf roof. There were many children and women standing on the road. Inside the village there

were sounds like barking or singing. Sometimes the local people make animals sounds, yelling like they are hunting . When we get into village, the children, women and men were very welcoming. Most of the women had tattoos on their face, and the men wore beautiful costume, some were holding a knife. About thirty people made a circle and and began dancing, making interesting sounds. The sun was going down, but the dancing did not stop. They set up big bonfire in the middle of circle and kept dancing. About two hours later the group broke up and the dancing stopped. They began talking and smoking, the women carrying the kettle and giving the men tea. There was only the children left near the bonfire. It was getting dark and cold, the weather was about 10 degrees by this time. The young village leader came to us and invited us to have a Naga style dinner. We were hungry and we came down very quickly to his house. The house was built of wood, the roof with leaf, and the floor was bamboo. On the wall they had hanging the head bone of all the

Traditionally man holding spear, ready for hunting, at Naga village Tsaw Law village, near MyanmarIndia border. There are only a few Naga people still living traditional lives, and the Naga people believe that these traditions will slowly disappear in the near future.

animals. In the middle of house they had set up a fire, which everyone was sitting around. The house owner and villagers prepared dinner for us. There was banana leaf, and on the leaf, chicken curry mixed with beef, green chili with salt, and some added pumpkin soup. We were very hungry, and really enjoyed the Naga traditional cooking. After dinner the villagers gave us tea and started telling us stories of the Naga.

Naga people performing traditional dance at Naga festival held in Lahel township on 15 January 2016. There are more than 80 tribal groups of Naga celebrating together here every year.

14 InDepth Magazine / March 2016

Stories about the Pum House where emergency issues, celebrations and happening in the village are announced by the beating of the block of wood inside the house, to make a very loud sound to remind people there are something happening in the village. And if two villages wanted to make peace the ambassador of the other village would come to the Pum house, talk and exchange a beautiful knife. They would leave the knife at the Pum house to show the evidence of Peace.


TRAVEL

The old man of the Naga people, standing in front of his house adorned animals bones. The animals bones tell the story that he is a good hunter. Hunting is one of the main duities of a Naga man.

Another story was about he HERO of the village. This type of fighting only stopped around 2003. The hero of the village would have to be a brave, smart and strong fighter, When it came to war he would cut many heads of the enemy. He would bring the head to the Pum house so the village would be proud and notice that he was the HERO. When it was fighting he would use a knife and spesr. The cutting of the head of the enemy had to be done by knife because the spear was only to be used amongst Naga people. After telling these and other stories, everyone was tired and cold from the trip, and we were were all happy to finally go to bed and sleep. The next morning we visited to the house of the oldest man in the village. He was sitting down near the fire, with a big scarf around his shoulder, the light was dark, with a small ray of sunshine breaking through. He old man could hear us, but could not see, he was blind. We asked him how old he was. He said he was 120 years old, so

One of Naga women at the festival. Most of Naga women act as support for the men and traditionally they have not been allowed to make major family decisions. The Naga women are expert at making the traditional Naga wine. Photos by Hongsar

we asked how did he know his age. He said they counted each farming year, The calendar of Naga is farming, so all members of the family count the farming years and tell each generation how to know their ages. We asked him of his experience of wars before, how they fought and how many heads he had cut

off. "I am not a hero, because I have cut only four enemy heads in my life." This was the history, culture, and traditional of Naga people that we experienced, but there are not so many people who know about how they live, and what is their history.

The hero of the village would have to be a brave, smart and strong fighter, When it came to war he would cut many heads of the enemy. Their culture is changing generation by generation. I hope this culture, history, and traditions will not one day be gone. I will always dream to come back again to this area to see these beautiful people and their development. I Hope to come back very soon .......

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 15


TRANSLATION

A MURDER ON PANSODAN STREET SAN SHAR - THE BURMESE SHERLOCK HOLMES Episode Two: San Lin Tun once again takes us into the world of famous detective San Shar in 1930s Rangoon, with his translation of a new original Shwe U-Daung story – Pan So Tan Lu That Mu (A Murder On Pansodan Street).  Ko Thein Maung (San Shar’s Dr Watson) tells the story.

Story so far: A Bengali man, Dr. Sanneal, who specialises in treating epilepsy, comes looking for San Shar to solve a queer case. A previously unknown man, Te Wah Ri, had come to Dr. Sanneal offering to set him up in a brand new clinic in Pansodan Street, at no cost. He would also provide a place to live and all food. In return the Dr. had to give the man all the fees that would be collected from his practice of which a quarter would be returned, for the Dr. to keep as his own. Te Wah Rei stays in his room all day, seeing nobody, and once a day comes down stairs and goes for his regular walk …. "Everyday Te Wah Ri, my benefactor and landlord, gives me my share and then takes a walk. He is a man of good ideas and a good partnership with me, he has a daily income of about 10 or 15 kyats without doing anything. In this way, he has saved up much money over two years. This is what happened. I only need to explain to you the matter of why I came here. "Well, go on." "It’s like this. About two Sundays ago, after coming back from his walk, Te Wah Ri rushed into my room. He had heard that there had been a burglary, with an apartment in eastern Rangoon being broken into, and that I needed to lock the doors and bar them well, as soon as the night fell. He was furiously talking to me. I felt really surprised that the break-in at the eastern part

of Rangoon was so important to him. I told him that I would do as he suggested. After our conversation, this man looked quite different. His manner became strange. It was daylight and he kept peeping out of the building. When he went out, he checked every corner of the door, under the stairs, and the corner of wardrobe. He showed a very quivering manner. During this time, he did not go out for a walk as usual. I wondered why he was so much concerned with something, and when I started to ask him one or two things, he shouted at me with an irate expression. So, I thought that it was not my concern and I stayed nonchalant. After a week, by the next Sunday, he was less tense and went out for a walk as before. I felt happy that everything was fine again. But look, now I'm in deep trouble. I've got a letter with my name on it, two days ago. I've brought it. Here it is and I'll read it out for you." Saying this, Dr. Sannael read out the letter as follows: A Bengali merchant from Bangladesh has to Burma on a certain matter and is now in Rangoon. This merchant contracted epilepsy many years ago, and has searched for doctors who can cure it, but he has found no one. Through a friend, it became known that Dr Sannael is the best doctor for this disease, so we would like to meet the doctor at half-past six in the evening to enquire. Accordingly, we would like the doctor to be ready for that. Then, Dr. Sannael said:

16 InDepth Magazine / March 2016

Cover of Inspector San Shar by Shwe U Daung (September 1966)

"I've studied this disease very well, and I felt really happy when I received the letter because it was the chance to apply my knowledge. I was ready to meet them at the appointed time. At half-past six sharp, two men came into my room. One was thin, aged just over 50. The other one was tall, and strong and a muscular man, aged about 30. When they entered, the younger one asked, ‘Are you Dr. Sannael? This is my father. If you can cure his illness, we won't be stingy for your fee. So, cure it.’ Then, I told him, ‘I'll try my best’. I felt I should examine the patient, and I asked the younger one, " While I examine the patient, will you stay around? Then, not willing to look at his father, he said, "’’I don't wish to stay here. I'll wait outside. Saying it, he went out of the room.

"I examined the patient's disease, and asked when he had first started to contract it, and was there anyone in the family who suffered the same? I noted down his reply properly in my book. A moment later, the patient began to suffer the attack of epilepsy. I thought that it was the right time for me to study it, and I compared his symptoms with my studies. I studied epilepsy very well, better than any other, and I had found the best medicine for it. To test its potency, I hurriedly ran into the other room where the medicine was kept. Because it is situated at the rear of the building, it took nearly five minutes to go there and back. I held the medicine bottle and rushed back into the examination room, I didn't know when the patient had gone. He was not in the room. I felt flabbergasted and went into the room where his son was waiting. He had gone too! They had just simply disappeared." "Then, I asked the guard at the entrance, but being a new man, as being as clumsy as he was, he could not be asked properly. He answered me that he also didn't see them. A moment later, our landlord Te Wah Ri came back from his walk. But, I had only a small conversation with him and didn't tell him much about the incident. I felt so surprised about the two men: the father and his son. I did not expect to meet them again but they arrived back at my room at six o’clock this evening. As soon as they entered, the father said, "I think you were very surprised at how we behaved." I replied that I was really astonished.


TRANSLATION

Then he told me, "It is like this. I had the attack of epilepsy, and the then when you left the room it suddenly vanished so I lost my senses, and stood up and went out on a whim". This time, the son stepped in on the conversation, "I thought that when my father came out everything was finished so when my father left, I followed him out. When we reached home, I talked to him and then figured out what had happened." I told them, “It doesn't matter. I was surprised that you had gone. So now, you wait for him outside, and let me examine the patient." I asked the father in. This time, there was no attack of the disease. So, I examined him for half an hour, gave him medicine, and both of them returned home. "A few moments later, my landlord Te Wah Ri came back from his walk, and went up to the building. Not long after, he hurriedly ran down, and asked me bluntly, "Tell me, who went into my room?" I replied to him, "No one entered it." "Don't lie to me,” he said. “Come and look up-

stairs". Saying this, he grasped at my hand and dragged me up. When we reached his room, he pointed his finger at the carpet near the entrance, and said, "Look at this. Is it my footprint?" Looking closely at it, the footprint was bigger than the one of Te Wah Ri, and it did not seem long enough. Today there had been much rain so a good footprint impression was made on it.

ing much about it. Then, Te Wah Ri called out to me and told me that he had heard that U San Shar was excellent in detecting, and that also he was not a government employee, so he would not be troubled if he summoned you again and again. So, he asked me to come to you, and tell you about the case. That's why I came here. Can you come along with me, my friend?"

So, I gave it a thought. This evening no one came here except the father and son. So, while the father was talking to me, the son must have had a scheme, and walked up to the the landlord’s room. I looked around for the missing things, but nothing was touched or lost. But, the footprint on the carpet told that someone had intruded. There was much worry for footprint, and less concern that nothing was lost.

After listening to the lengthy story, with much attention and enthusiasm, at my final word, he stood up suddenly, and handed me a walking stick. He took one for himself as well, and descended from the building.

For Te Wah Ri, the sight of the footprint made him shiver so much that he slumped down into the chair and sobbed. I didn't understand much about his manner, and I was think-

Dr. Sannael’s house was not too far, so we walked there. On reaching his house, he took us up to the building. He led us up, and we followed him closely up a narrow ladder up to the building. On its second landing, the lantern went out suddenly. In the dark, someone shouted, "Stop climbing up. I have a gun. A step more, and I'll shoot."

Then, Dr. Sannael replied, "It's us, do not fear. No other people." Then, the man with the gun said, "Well, Dr. Sannael? Come, come. Who are those people?" "U San Shar and his friend whom you want to meet." "Well, is that right? Come, come." Then, the lantern lighted up again. The man came out of the room. He was plump, and short. He had so much fear, his hair seemed to be standing on his head. To be continued ….

Shwe U-Daung (1889-1973) was a pro-Burmese writer and translator, who in the 1930s adapted many of the original Sherlock Holmes stories, placing them in the setting of the author’s Rangoon, in a time of nationalist fervour, high crime rate and social unrest. ‘Murder on Pansodan Street’ is an original story, not an adaptation.

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 17


PHOTO ESSAY

Auditorium Light Beam @ the Mingla Thiri Cinema – Dawei, Burma (Photographed January, 2011): A beam of light pierces the darkness in this mostly-wooden cinema hall. Photo by Philip Jablon

18 InDepth Magazine / March 2016


PHOTO ESSAY

A BEAM OF LIGHT

MYANMAR'S VANISHING MOVIE THEATRES Philip Jablon is an American-born researcher and photographer based in Chiang Mai, Thailand. In 2010 he earned an M.A. in Sustainable Development from Chiang Mai University. Since 2009 he has built one of the world’s largest photographic archival records of stand-alone movie theaters across Southeast Asia for his web-based Southeast Asia Movie Theater Project. He is also the director of the advocacy-focused Movie Theater Preservation Initiative, through which he promotes the preservation of select stand-alone movie theaters throughout the ASE-

AN region. His work has been supported by the Jim Thompson Foundation and the Thai Film Archive. So much of Myanmar’s ageing architecture is in need of protection. Stand-alone movie theaters all the more so, as they tend to be the most at-risk structures once sweeping redevelopment plans and capital inflow descend upon a country. This project is dedicated to helping ensure the survival of at least one stand-alone theater in every major metropolitan area of Southeast Asia. The ones in Myanmar are in dire need.

Myanmar's Vanishing Movie Theaters was exhibited at Myanmar Deiita from 20th February - 6th March 2016. Myanmar Deitta | Supporting Documentary Photography and Filmmaking in Myanmar 3rd FloorNumber 48, 44th Street, Botahtaung Township, Yangon www.deitta.org | +95 (0) 931 736154 contact@deitta.org

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 19


PHOTO ESSAY

The Waziya Cinema – Yangon, Burma (Photographed June, 2010): By most accounts, the Waziya Cinema dates to the late 1920's. It began its life as a live theater, but was transformed into a cinema hall as the film medium grew in popularity. Myanmar, then the British colony of Burma, had one of the most prolific and well developed movie industries in Southeast Asia during the first half of the 20th century. Until 1962, when all the country's cinema halls were nationalized under the auspices of the military

government, the Waziya went under the name of the Excelsior Cinema. Such name changing was common practice following the ascent of the military, with many entities formerly containing names of English origin going native. The aim was to foster a stronger national identity after a century of British colonial rule. Today the Waziya is no longer in operation, but a movement to renovate and reinvent the Beuax Arts theaters is beginning to take place.

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PHOTO ESSAY

Balcony View – Pyay, Burma (photographed January, 2011) Peering over the balcony at the Tun Thiri Cinema. The lone occupied row of seats is the row closest to the screen in the cheap section. In other words, the patrons have tried to get as close to the screen for the lowest possible price. Photo by Philip Jablon

The Thamada Cinema – Yangon, Myanmar (photographed June, 2010) Thamada translates to "President" in English. In 1960, when the Thamada burst into the ranks of Yangon's movie theater elite, a name like that would have held a certain amount of political zeal. Things were looking promising after the casting off of more than sixty years of humiliating British-colonial rule. Myanmar, then Burma, was coming out of World War II badly damaged, but ready to move forward. Hopes were high that the country would enter the world stage, find its wings and soar to new heights via state-driven industrialization policies, the likes of which were being pursued across post-colonial Southeast Asia. A building like the Thamada, then, embodied the spirit of the times. This was the new Burma, after all, not the medieval one, nor the one subdued by foreign powers. The nation's capital yearned for a movie theater which could represent the progressive outlook of a burgeoning democracy. Sleek international style architecture was employed to achieve this end. To this day the Thamada is in pristine condition, entertaining capacity crowds on a daily basis. In operation

The Thida Cinema – Yangon, Burma (photographed January, 2011): For the Thida Cinema, a boxy façade is brought to life by a colorful tile mosaic – a hallmark style of Burmese theater architecture in the 1950’s. Five theaters with these same characteristics were encountered throughout the country. Enough to brand the style as distinctly Burmese; the Burmese Polychrome cinema halls. Demolished 2013

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 21


ART

Photo by Hongsar

22 InDepth Magazine / March 2016


ART

THE SICK PROJECTOR PROFILE OF POET MAUNG DAY BY RACHEL WONG

C

an you give me ten minutes?” Maung Day said as he ducked under the door. “I have to go pick up the projector.” The screening space, tucked away in the maze of Botahtaung lanes, contains a set of black stools and a whiteboard for a screen. This week, Maung and his friends are watching Montage of Heck, the Kurt Cobain biopic that had critics raving and fans singing along to the all-Nirvana soundtrack. Last week, he screened Swedish absurdism. The week before that, an avant-garde film from China.

2012. His work has also appeared in literary journals like Guernica and The Awl, for which he translated his Burmese originals into English. When he is not writing, he translates children’s books, among them Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Charlotte’s Web, and the Wizard of Oz. But getting by on poetry alone is not always easy. Magazines often fail to pay their contributors, and after a new book is released, Maung invites his friends to a few rounds of drinks at the beer station—enough to cancel out the earnings.

Along with performance artist Moe Satt and writer Moe Thet Han, Maung hosts this screening series with upstart artists in mind. The space is frequented by poets, translators, publishers, and filmmakers, many of whom come here because they are tired of watching James Bond and Bollywood in commercial cinemas. The group calls itself the Sick Projector. The name refers to the projector’s jaundiced eye, but also to the state of Burmese art today. As Maung puts it, “The poetry in this country has hit a wall. It’s at a dead end. We have to look to other places for inspiration.”

Maung lives a second life as a social activist. When Cyclone Nargis hit in 2008, he remembers being overwhelmed by the reports of deaths and devastated villages. At the time, he had been active as an artist and a writer, but had never really dabbled in politics. He had graduated from the Institute of Technology in Thanlyin and Dagon University in Yangon, after which he worked as an editor for a music journal called Alinka Wutyi, a literary magazine called Han Thit, and an art journal called Pan. The cyclone, which turned out to be the nation’s worst ever natural disaster, struck Maung as a calling to make a trip out into the Ayeyarwaddy delta.

The lights turn off, the projector coughs, and a yellowed Kurt Cobain flickers onto the whiteboard. Maung kicks off a pair of Converse sneakers and pushes his square-rimmed glasses up his nose. He looks much younger than 36. There is something collegiate in his manner—it might be the way he cocks his head when he asks a question, chin in hand, or the way he has jumbled his files on the home screen of his laptop, a folder for Foucault squished next to folders for poetry and Burmese folklore. To date, Maung has published five books of poems through publishing houses, including Surplus Biology in 2011 and Alluvial Plain of Ogres in

“I had never seen so many corpses before,” he says. “I couldn’t sleep for days. And I thought, ‘Whatever I’m writing, I need to do something that actually addresses what’s going on.’” So he joined an NGO from Thailand that was working to rebuild the villages that had been flattened. His colleagues convinced him to move to Bangkok, first to join the humanitarian community there, then to study international development at Chulalongkorn University. He is now back in Yangon to work with Metta Development, an NGO that helps rebuild villages in areas torn by ethnic conflict.

Maung tells me that his policy work has sharpened his sense as a poet. “Poetry is a political thing,” he says. “It’s about the collapse of social fabric, the chaotic nature of society.” That society forms the roiling backdrop of his poems, which evoke a Yangon that is equal parts street carnival and military monument. In them, slums and mausoleums are filled with fantastical creatures and sleazy tourists. Sometimes, he mimes the voice of a journalist; other times, he adopts the voice of a traditional storyteller or the intimacy of someone with something bizarre to confess. (“I spend my day deleting vowels from my doctor’s prescription,” he writes.) In one poem, Maung makes a mock report: “Today the government talks about a mysterious octopus / which attacked

I am them. I am somehow related to these things which happen around me, but I don’t want the connections to be immediately apparent.

civilians boning their hookers in the bushes by a lake.” In another, Maung creates a world in which a “president of snails” builds “a nation that goes by / various names: Myanmar League, Terror of Laiza, Hepatitis B.” The dissent in Maung’s poetry isn’t exactly the dissent you might find in the writing of an older generation of poets—those who joined the democracy protests of 1988, worked for the National League of Democracy, were imprisoned for their satire, or all of the above. For that generation, poetry was a way to bring moral clarity to a regime that sorely lacked it. “No Retreat,” written by a poet who was elected to Parliament in last November’s elections, is typical of that style: “I couldn’t give in, even if I wished to retreat / Behind me, in front of me, and beside me, my path brimmed with my brothers, standing resolutely.” But for Maung, the key freedom of poetry is its moral ambiguity. In one poem, he invokes the tragedy of Meiktila in 2013, in which a scuffle between a Buddhist couple and a Muslim storeowner ignited mob violence that killed over twenty people. Instead of condemning the attacks, the speaker in Maung’s poem hears his own name being called out by thirteen burning Muslims. Is he a perpetrator of the crime? A bystander who looked on with guilt, or worse yet, someone who watched them burn with glee? I read the line, running through all the possibilities, but the poem does not offer easy answers. “I try to put myself in those places in my poems,” Maung tells me. “I am them. I am somehow related to these things which happen around me, but I don’t want the connections to be immediately apparent.” In another poem, Maung writes: “I download Depeche Mode & I download The Cure. / I download Rohing-

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 23


ART

yas & the Battle of Marston Moor.” When I ask him about the curious contrast in those lines, he shrugs and tells me he liked The Cure, and that he didn’t know anything about Marston Moor, but it made a nice rhyme. And the downloading of Rohingyas? It isn’t so much a political statement as it is a tribute to the absurdity of the Internet. “This is the everyday life of ordinary Burmese people. We listen to music, we read BBC and CNN, and so we literally do download Rohingyas. We live in this huge web of interconnectedness and, after a while, it all becomes absurd. You feel numb.” “In Myanmar, crazy things happen with shocking regularity. One week, a well-known student leader is murdered. Next week, a celebrity is pelted onstage.” Maung’s poetry takes on the absurd flavour of the news, and some of his friends call his work surrealist. But he himself shies away from the label, preferring the terms contemporary, associative, and bizarre. Surrealists might be interested in buried dreams and unconscious urges, but Maung is interested in the opposite—his poems use contradiction and contrast to help his readers gain social consciousness. Now that the NLD has taken its seat in Parliament, Maung says that poets need to turn a critical eye on the nation’s most beloved figure. “We were so used to backing Aung San Suu Kyi that it’s now very difficult to criticise her. She has an enormous amount of power on her hands. We need to find a way how to deal with that.” The biggest misconception that people have about Burmese politics, he says, is the notion that the NLD and civil society are the same thing. “If we really are to have a civil society in Myanmar, then we have to provide checks and balances to the government, no matter who is in power.” The issues Maung cares about are ones often overlooked in international media. “When I was a kid, I used to go to a public park called Kan Tha Ya for picnics. But now they’ve built a City Mart there, and we’re all really pissed.” Maung wants to advocate for the preservation of public space, and also for the making of a

Kissers in a Park (Kissing Through Time), pencil colour pen and watercolour on paper, 55x75 cm, 2016

public consciousness. It’s time for Burmese people to start reckoning with the past: “In Myanmar, there is no procedure for bringing out memories. People internalise what happens to them, and it stays there.” He points to the case of Cambodia, whose reconciliation efforts have put veterans of the Khmer Rouge face to face with their victims, as an example of a measured success. Something similar needs to happen here, he says. “I don’t think we should demonise anyone, hang anyone, or kill anyone. But we should document what happened. I believe in recovering and recuperating these lost memories. This way, we know where we came from and we know what we are dealing with. If we can do it effectively, we might have closure, too.” In one of his poems, Maung likens the process to a set of nested Russian dolls: “Every village is a shepherd, every villager a sheep. / Inside every sheep, a tombstone.” I asked Maung what kind of work he plans to do in this new civil society. He said, “I’ll be thinking more, feeling more. I need to focus on how I live my life. Politics is a huge part of it, and it will seep into my poetry as well.”

24 InDepth Magazine / March 2016

Paper Flowers & Cyber Peacocks By Maung Day, translated from the Burmese by the poet December 3, 2012 I have come here to suck on the rims of oil rigs There are moon-sized holes in the floors of cyber cafes Me? I am a mass expanding gradually & your malaria parasite In an anthropological museum, there’s a man who breathes through the tip of his head You live in the HTML format too Infinities are the length of Independence Monument in Yangon I have to get a new email address every day Snakehead is a deity fish The temple choking in my throat is an illegitimate star somewhere else We have thoroughly searched the place The parking buses themselves are bad karma I punched & bruised the guy in my dream Let us legally do what we must do in the dark When the right time comes, we will sacrifice a pig Though it’s not time, the instrument tuner has come On the inside he is bringing laws to amend On the inside of the inside he is bringing child soldiers On the inside of the inside of the inside he is bringing paper flowers I have lies to sell Unearth the earth says the sky The italicized sentences I am happy in their house


SOCIAL ENTERPRISE

RESPONSIBLE COFFEE GENIUS COFFEE ESTATE BY BOB PERCIVAL

Coffee worker on the Genius Estate sorting beans, picking out the inferior unripe beans, leaving the quality ripe red beans.

T

he township of Ywar Ngan is deep in the Shan Highlands, about three-and-half hours drive northwest of He Ho. It is home to the Danu ethnic group. To get there is a scenic journey through fertile farmlands, eucalypt-lined country roads, and numerous pagodas dotted across the landscape. It’s worth the trip just for this drive, especially at sunset. It is here in the hills district surrounding Ywar Ngan that Genius Coffee, a social enterprise founded by Ngwe Tun only three years ago. It has a small acreage of its own, but sources mainly from local coffee growers with whom they have

a close relationship with. A relationship that involves not only buying their coffee, but also providing training and support in producing a quality export quality product. Ngwe Tun has ten local agents who source from over 700 ethnic Danu coffee farmers within a twenty-mile radius of Ywar Ngan. At 4082’ elevation, with fertile soil and temperate climate, Ywar Ngan is perfect for growing coffee. The farms here are small self-sufficient estates supplying a good regular income to owners, and a healthy supply of day-to-day food from associated companion planting. The estate

Photo by Bob Percival

farmers grow mango, jackfruit and avocado trees to supply necessary shade for the coffee plants. Other crops grown include banana trees, papaya, green tea and chili. This is permaculture in action, not through any application of eco-theory obtained from books, but years of natural best practice, where little or no money has been available to buy commercial fertilisers. Genius Coffee were the winners of the 2015 MYANMORE Entrepreneurial Achievement Award, sponsored by KBZ Bank. Winning the award brought Genius Coffee to KBZ’s attention and subsequently

Genius Coffee was offered a Small Medium Enterprise (SME) loan by KBZ. Genius Coffee accepted because they were able to lend over a three-year period rather than the usual one year, and at a lower annual interest rate of 13%. Genius Coffee had a healthy sales income to ensure their ability to repay the loan. KBZ provided the loan but the working capital was still needed. This was sourced by a crowd-funding project. Through a clever and very transparent campaign, Genius Coffee created Genius Farm Partners, Silver, Gold or Diamond, where over a six month (harvest period)

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 25


SOCIAL ENTERPRISE

the Partners could invest US$100 @ 12% return, US$5000 @ 15%, or US$10,000@18%. Genius Coffee were able to raise $100,000, of which $70,000 has been collected. The investment is only available during harvest time, between November to March. The working capital gives the enterprise greatly increased capacity to pay local farmers a good price for quality beans. One coffee estate where beans are sourced lies almost directly across the road from Genius Estate. Thein Kyi (74 years old) and her daughter San San Oo own the farm. They have been selling their crop to Ngwe Tun for two years. He pays San San Oo 600Ks/kg for ripe bean. Previously she was paid 200Ks at the local market, where they also had to carry the crop and weighing scales were notoriously unreliable. San San Oo has 3 acres of land carrying about 3500 trees. Each tree can produce 12kg of ripe fruit. Each local picker crops about 16kg of ripe fruit a day, receiving about 3000 Ks a day for her work. It is profitable business for both farmer and producer, and supplies an above average wage for workers. The farmers in the area started growing coffee seven years ago with the aid of a government initiative, and have been harvesting beans for four years. This region had coffee first introduced around 1980 when a strong campaign was put in place by the regime to eradicate opium poppy production. In this area they succeeded, because the coffee crops were able to provide a sustainable income that made it worthwhile for the farmers to continue and not have to return to poppy production, as happened in many other areas. Trading of beans outside the district was strictly illegal, as all coffee was used by the regime to supply coffee to army personnel for personal use. The added collateral from KBZ investment loan and the crowdsourced working capital has had a positive flow-on effect for Genius Coffee. On their estate they were able to buy a new Wet Mill and Dry Mill for processing the coffee, as well as having increased working capital to pitch at farmers during harvest time.

Ngwe Tun (right), founder of Genius Coffee, discussing coffee production with Ko Kyi Maung, small estate owner at Ale Kine village.

The number of employees rose from ten to thirty, roasting capacity rose from 120kg to 600kg every eight hours, estate plantation acreage expanded from ten to forty acres. Local distributors rose from two to four, products rose from three to eight, franchises went from none to four, overseas distributors rose from one to three, and cash flow increased from $2000/month to $6000/month, as well as initiation of training for farmers, and the change agents who buy beans from each village and advise farmers. The harvest has almost finished this year, and a good vintage is assured due to the high quality maintained in the growing, harvesting and processing of the coffee bean bought from local farmers. In a recent Green Coffee Analysis, using international cuppers, Genius Coffee received a high score of 81/100. Plans are now underway to gain Organic Certification and Fair Trade Certification. Ngwe Tun wants to have a export quality product. Already he is exporting green beans to Hong Kong, and roasted beans to Japan, Singapore and the US. And as another project there’s eco-tourism, which Ngwe Tun is very passionate about. Getting people to

They succeeded here, because the coffee crops were able to provide a sustainable income that made it worthwhile for the farmers to continue and not return to poppy production, as happened in many other areas.

Photo by Bob Percival

come up to the estate to see what a socially responsible enterprise looks like, to meet the growers, enjoy the landscape, and of course drink the coffee at it’s origin. It’s a great escape from the noise and heat of Yangon! Visit Genius Coffee Estate on their Coffee Origin Tour for $US400, including flights, pick up from He Ho airport, and two nights accommodation. There are four bungalows ($US40/night) and 10 Guest Rooms ($US20/night) for independent travellers, who can get to the estate on by catching a bus to Aungban, then a small minivan to Ywar Ngan.

Genius Coffee Estate #50 Khat Tar Street, Ywar Ma Quarter, Ywar Ngan Township, Shan State, Mynamar Phone: +958168079, +9598625220

Genius Coffee Shop 220, 31st Street, Kyauktada Township, Yangon.

Genius Lab Cafe/Coffee Training 455 Kyaik Kasan Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 27


FASHION

MODE À YANGON BY SONDANG GRACE SIRAIT

T

he bold patterns of geometric cuts and strong silhouettes suggest a contemporary style. When added with beautiful draping that sweeps into train length, the end result is an interesting, dramatic and ethereal look. It’s both contemporary and traditional, and in the hands of Yangon-based fashion designer Taylah Thiri Kyaw, it is also couture. “My designs reflect the meaning of my brand, which also has the same meaning as my name in both Burmese and English,” says Taylah. “It’s about poise, grace, elegance, confidence.” That’s exactly how she wants women who wear her collection to feel: feminine, graceful and confident. True to her nature, this creative mind behind Poise Couture also ensures a feminine touch in every gown. Many of her dresses are detailed with sequin embroidery and exquisite hand beading, with materials that include taffeta, silk and satin. Intricately beaded gown creations are her signature, lending splendour to women of all shapes and sizes.

the simplest gowns in the House of Poise Couture boast a gorgeous cut out in the back with the perfect lining that holds the bust and tummy perfectly. With production and distribution based in the Golden Valley area, Poise Couture is targeted at women from the upper class who enjoy luxury. With each collection, it is clear that Taylah is growing more powerful and special, the consistency in her designs ever more clear. From drawing sketches to finalising a gown on a model, most of the time Taylah has to do everything herself. This is partly because she has yet to find staff with the right skills. But then again, perhaps it’s also her way of making sure that the end result is as impeccable as it gets.

For women looking to top off their look with something charming, there are sequined capes worth considering. They’re exquisite and stylish, playful and glamorous, certainly able to spruce up just about any outfit for a night out on the town. There are also thick, corded lace gowns with corset bodices and tight-fitting torsos that would instantly turn any woman into an elegant diva. In other words, it’s subtle sensuality at its best. For those with a penchant for clean, straightforward styles, fret not. Even

Taylah's Poise Couture fashion space (centre) at Art Venture.

28 InDepth Magazine / March 2016


FASHION

Here in Myanmar, people think fashion is only about sewing and patternmaking, when actually fashion is very sensitive

Photos: Hongsar Make Up Artist: Wine

Evident in Poise designs are influences from Taylah’s main inspirations: Polish American architect Daniel Libeskin – who’s known for his sharp, angled forms – as well as Elie Saab – a Lebanese fashion designer who has dressed some of the biggest names in Hollywood and is also a favorite among royals. But mention the name of the late British fashion designer and couturier Alexander McQueen, and Taylah will go gaga. For a moment, her eyes widen and her voice shrieks with excitement, “Oh, I just love him, especially his flower collection!” By that, she’s referring to McQueen’s 2007 Spring/Summer Collection, which was inspired by Handel’s Sarabande and featured faded flowers trapped in chiffon and lace, ruffled skirts constructed out of tiers of delicate petals, and botanical prints

that displayed brightly colored birds and flowers. That was pure genius, thought Taylah, as she reflected on her own interpretation of fashion and the misgivings of how the concept remains elusive in her home country. “Here in Myanmar, people think fashion is only about sewing and patternmaking, when actually fashion is very sensitive,” she says. “For myself, it was while in school that I realised fashion is much wider than I had initially thought.” Taylah’s love of fashion design grew out of childhood experiences staring at and trying gowns on display at a bridal shop next to her father’s office and an incessant drive to create beauty in all she sees. But it was during her school days at

Singapore’s Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts that Taylah was exposed to rigorous preparation in esthetic and execution skills for her future career as a couture designer. Her family background – her father ran a successful furniture and wall paint business – also provided her with perspectives on retail enterprises. “What I really want is to be a dress designer. I want to open my own luxury store,” she says. In the meantime, Poise Couture collections are on display at Art Venture, a curated art and fashion boutique owned by her brother. Another dream she harbours is to one day open a world-class fashion school here in Yangon. It’s a wish she’s turning into reality, one day at a time. On weekends, Taylah opens her doors to students interested in becoming professional fashion de-

signers. “You won’t believe the talents I’ve seen here. There are lots of potentials out there,” she told me. With a seven-day working week, Taylah is always running a busy schedule. No complaints though, because she actually enjoys teaching. “For me, teaching provides me with a two-way learning system. I give my students my knowledge and experience. On their part, they usually give me questions that make me have to think and perhaps even have to look them up in books again.”

Poise Couture 44 (A) Golden Valley, Bahan Township, Yangon Phone: +9595012945, +959798230929

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 29


BISTRONOMY

FEED YOUR INNER KOREAN!

BULGOGI BROTHERS, KOREAN BBQ RESTAURANT BY VICKIE WHAT IT IS A Korean sensation, Bulgogi brothers is located on Pyay Road, far from the downtown traffic. This ‘Myanmore Dining & Nightlife 2015’ award-winning restaurant has just celebrated its first anniversary. The casual dining offers a variety of Korean traditional food. It is a nice surprise to also see Hotpot on the menu. ATMOSPHERE The dining area feels like a cosy food cave. The tables are fitted with electric-stoves, ready to heat up your order. The air-conditioned room is quiet and relaxed, providing a much needed serenity. RECOMMENDATIONS The new Lunch Set Menu offers a good selection of all-time favourite bbq dishes with different side dishes. The best seller from the menu is the Unyang Style Bulgogi (14,900 Ks), 150g of beef bulgogi that comes with a soup, rice, salad, kimchi, sauce and a choice of coffee or tea. The meat is especially marinated and gives out a mixture of delicious smells when grilled over the stove. The soup and salads on the side also add variety in flavour to challenge your appe-

30 InDepth Magazine / March 2016

tite. The prices are passable for a hearty meal for two. The Grilled Spareribs (8,900 Ks) will satisfy your taste appetite for pork. This sweet and slightly hotpeppers-and-pork-ribs-stirredfried, combined with the Korean traditional plum drink, sweet and sour, is hugely satisfying to the tastebuds. Also on offer Spicy Cheese Chicken Bulgogi (11,900 Ks) – covered with mozzarella cheese it is a tempting choice for youngsters. As the summer approaches in Myanmar, there is a feeling that we should again be on the lookout for cold noodle. The cold Noodle (in tangy ice-broth) and Spicy Cold Noodle (6,900 Ks) is served with ice chippings sprinkled on top of the cold noodle in a flavourful mixture of seaweed, tangerine and special sauce. FINAL THOUGHTS The higher prices are worth it, considering the warm and pleasant atmosphere. So, if you are looking for quiet and affordable fine dining, this is just what you want.

Address: Pyay Road Branch: G-136, Ground Floor, Building D, SOHO Diamond Tower, Nar Nat Taw Street, Kamayut Township, Yangon Phone: 0973038899, 09796307127 Opening Hours: 10:00 AM – 9:00 PM


BISTRONOMY

NO PLACE FOR VEGETARIANS ASTONS STEAKHOUSE BY CLIFF LONSDALE

is the main draw here. I didn’t try desserts, I couldn’t, I’d had my meat fix, and anything above and beyond that seemed completely unnecessary.

WHAT IT IS There is no escaping the fact that Astons is a steak restaurant. From the retro style brick wallpaper loaded with action photographs of cowboys, to the Stetsons and horns displayed behind the bar – there is a certain machismo about the place. ATMOSPHERE With bare tables, harsh lines, bright lights, this is a restaurant to come to if you are serious about eating meat, and perhaps not the place to go if you are looking for a cosy romantic meal for two. RECOMMENDATIONS The usual suspects are available: sirloin, T-bone, tenderloin, there is even Wagyu ribeye on offer at a

FINAL THOUGHTS

very inviting price of 42,500 Ks. All their beef is imported from Australia. The meat was expertly cooked, just the right side of medium so that those lovely juices flooded out when cut into. The outside was lightly and very neatly charred, which provided a tasty hint of charcoal that surrounded a mouthwateringly tender piece of meat. The lamb chops from New Zealand were rich and sweet, The offering at Astons is straightforward; select your cut of meat, decide

on your degree of cooking and then choose two side dishes from a range of salads, potatoes, corn or even Macaroni cheese. If steak isn’t your thing they have a decent range of chicken dishes, some fish and seafood and a plate of suspicious looking sausages available, and the burgers look excellent value for money. Surprisingly there is no surfand turf option, which seems a bit remiss, but really the meat selection

Newly opened and located on the third floor of the spaceship like Myanmar plaza, Astons looks it is going to be (and perhaps already is) a popular place to go with friends to eat good quality meat at extremely affordable prices.

Astons Specialities Yangon Steakhouse Address: 302B, HAGL Myanmar Plaza, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township, Yangon. Phone: 09976498693, 09421033838 Opening Hours: 11:00 AM to 11:00 PM

KONTEMPORARY KOREAN SORABOL KOREAN BY TWINKLE

than any other Korean places I have been to.

WHAT IT IS

FINAL THOUGHTS

A high-end Korean chain restaurant situated in posh Kanbawza Street, serving authentic Korean cuisine. The majority of patrons are Korean. ATMOSPHERE It’s a BBQ restaurant with built-in smoke suction vents for each table, so there’s very little smoke or pungent smell, even if you eat inside. They serve large dishes and most Korean patrons come in big groups, so it’s usually loud. RECOMMENDATIONS The BBQ of course is great. They

have a choice of imported or homeraised meat on Korean farms. Their beef Bul Gogi (tender rib eye steak) is a huge hit (US$25 to US$35 for 150-200 g). I also loved the pork belly and rib meat (US$8 to US$15 for 100 g). We also tried the very tasty Korean pancakes , Hae Mul Pa Jeon, which are similar to a noncrispy tempura. The spicy stir fried

octopus was both tender and chewy. Their Napa Wrap with Pork (US$30 per set of sliced pork, kimchi, bean curd, greens and other condiments) was fine but not really ‘out of this world’. They also serve a lot of little complimentary side dishes of kimchi and salad to go with the BBQ, which are adequate. The choices of sojus and other Korean liquors is better

It’s a great restaurant for a group night out. Sorabol is on the pricy side of high-end but the meats on offer make it worth it, especially for a group. So, if you are looking for a place to have some fun with your mates, a few hearty meat dishes, and some strong drinks, this is the definitely the place for you.

Address: 15 Kan Baw Za Road, Golden Valley Ward (2), Bahan Township, Yangon Phone: 09785888999, 09784425297, 09784425296, 09261593866 . Opening Hours: 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM

March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 31


BISTRONOMY

IMPECCABLE COOKING

IMPERIAL GARDEN @ MYANMAR PLAZA BY ROBERT BERG

The Black Pepper Beef was our favourite dish of the evening – tender meat, spicy and bursting with complex flavors, this dish will keep us coming back for more! We finished our meal with completely refreshing Mango Pudding (1,600 Ks).

WHAT IT IS The mall is also host to a ubiquitous variety of dining choices, of chain driven coffee shops, bakeries & restaurants. The independent Imperial Garden brings a much needed counter balance with a Cantonese influenced dim sum escape. Saturday wine pairings are in order with selections from a Singaporean sommelier. ATMOSPHERE You will forget all about the goings on outside when greeted with Imperial Garden’s gracious service and full bar. Headed by Paul Wong, a 45 year veteran of dim sum kitchens, and 30 years atop the London dim Sum scene, the restaurant has al-

FINAL THOUGHTS

ready found firm footings. RECOMMENDATIONS We enjoyed the Prawn Dumplings (2,000 Ks), which were in a thin nearly translucent wrapper, impeccably fresh and perfectly cooked. The accompanying cilantro chili garlic dipping sauce could be a go to for any dish. The Pork Soup Dumplings (2,800 Ks), again were perfectly pre-

32 InDepth Magazine / March 2016

pared and served with a ginger-laced vinegar dipping sauce that contrasted perfectly with the rich pork filling.

Overall dim sum is impeccably cooked. The menu is filled with textured masterpieces and top notch ingredients. Not-to-miss dishes are Pan-Fried Beans, Peppered Beef and the Squid Cakes.

Pan-Fried French Beans with Chili & Garlic (3,200 Ks) were one of the highlights, showing the mastery of the kitchen’s skills. Yunnan influenced and laced with just enough Szechuan peppercorn to delightfully numb but not overpower the palate.

Address: 192 Kaba Aye Pagoda Road. Myanmar Plaza unit 315, Level 3, Bahan Township, Yangon Phone: 09592508, 09971115318 Opening Hours: 9:00 AM – 9:00 PM


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March 2016 / InDepth Magazine 33


HOROSCOPE

MYANMAR HOROSCOPE Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing has a Science Degree Major in Mathematics from Yangon University. Currently, he is writing articles and horoscopes for monthly magazines and weekly journals in Myanmar. In Myanmar astrology, star signs are determined by which day you were born. Each sign represents its own day, cardinal direction (utmost importance), planet (celestial body) and animal.

SUNDAY ▪▪ Lucky Time You will be industrious. During this month, you will hear success knock on your door. Your fortune will be great. Your wish will be fulfilled. You will be strong and healthy.

Love – Love will start in your eyes. Love will appear in your heart. You will have a smile for love. True love will make you happy and active. You will value your lover more than everything in the world. Business – You will realise a business and management concept. You will get income from product distribution. You will benefit from local trade and international trade. Lucky numbers – 2.5.8.0 Lucky colour – Orange

MONDAY ▪▪ Journey Time You will be independent and free. You will start a journey during this month. You will be healthy and lucky for travelling. You will speak no vain words. Your heart will be light. Relatives and family will respect your manner.  

Love – Love will make you surprised. You will risk for love. You will meet an attractive sweetheart. You will announce your love story officially.   Business – You will be satisfied by saying to the customer, ''thank you.” You will be popular in your business societies. You will get

perfect business conditions. Lucky numbers – 3.6.9.0 Lucky colour – Brown

TUESDAY ▪▪ Peace Time Your life will be peaceful. You will be staid, serious and firm. You will be sensible. You will purchase a machine or car for personal use. Good news and messages will be heard during this month. You will be healthy because you will neither drink nor smoke.

Love – You will be foolish for love. Love will make you mad. Your love trip will meet difficulty.   Business – Your economic growth will depend on the scientific method for innovation and technical change. You will happy by fulfilling customer needs. Lucky numbers – 2.5.3.6 Lucky colour – Red

WEDNESDAY ▪▪ Precious Time You will be generous and imaginative. You will act out everything with a cheerful mood. You will love music and literature. You will get a precious present from friends. If you want to have a healthy life and healthy lifestyle, you should give up smoking and drinking.

Love – You will say ''good bye" to your sweetheart. You will not believe in love and heart. Love will be a barrier in your life.  You will make yourself sorry. Business – You will start foreign

34 InDepth Magazine / March 2016

investments in foreign market. You will prepared to take the risk of innovating. During this month, you will pay taxes and other expenses. Lucky numbers – 2.5.1.7 Lucky colour – Grey

THURSDAY ▪▪ Hero Time You will be honest and polite. God will protect you. During this month, you will be zero to hero time. You will be brave and adventurous. You will be delight for your family. You will be elegant in style. You will make a recovery from illness.

Love – You will realise your lover's mind. Love will make you pleased. You will be happy in love's palace. You will marry or be engaged during this month. Business –  Your business will drive to maturity. Your company will reach economic and monetary security. Your business will grow rapidly. You will be reducing expenses.   Lucky numbers – 3.9.8.5 Lucky colours – Bright colours

FRIDAY ▪▪ Smooth Time You will be diligent and opportunistic. Your life will be smooth. You will escape from difficulty. You will be a star in your society because of your style. You will like expensive things and clothes. You will take interest in art and music. You don't need to worry for your health.

Love – You will meet a charming lover. You will propose to your sweetheart during this month. Love will make you joyful and give amusement. Business – You will not hesitate to expand new market.   You will get an advantage from business partnership. Your business plan and goals will be very high.   Lucky numbers – 1.4.3.5 Lucky colour – Blue

SATURDAY ▪▪ Tolerant Time You will be tolerant and patient. Sometimes you will be stubborn and quick- tempered. You will be a born leader. Your management skills will be high. You will be enjoying your life. You will take interest in funny stories. To the healthy and young, you should smile and laugh.

Love  – Love will make you excited. You will be attracted to your lover's benevolent smile. You should not hide your love. Business – You will create and seek opportunity. You will try the best to improve profit. Your partners will admire your business performance. You will conduct a business survey.   Lucky numbers – 3.6.7.2 Lucky colour – White Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing has practiced astrology and Burmese traditional medicine for 40 years. Contact: 095012767


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DEALS GYM

BALANCE FITNESS - 15% off 6 months or 1 year membership contract - Discount cannot be used with other promotions - Valid everyday, 1 person per card.

SHOPPING DAILY MART - Free delivery for order less than 30,000 Ks - 5% discount in total bill for order above 30,000 Ks - (minimum delivery: Ks10,000) - Valid everyday ( 9am to 5 Pm only),1 person per card MONUMENT BOOKS - This bookstore is known for its wide selection of English language books. - 15% off on weekdays - 10% off on weekends - Valid everyday,1 person per card PATRICK ROBERT THE GALLERY - 10% discount in all showroom items. Export orders and credit card payments not included. - Valid everyday (closed Sundays), one person per card SELECT BOUTIQUE THE THIRIPYITSAYA - 10% off all Jewelry - Valid everyday (closed on Tuesdays) THE WAREHOUSE - 15 off total bill - Valid everyday, 1 person per card VESTIGE MERCANTILE & RELICS - 10% off total bill. - Valid everyday at: . Vestige Flagship Store, Yangon . Vestige Kiosk, Avenue 64 Hotel. . Vestige Flagship Store, Nay Pyi Taw - Valid everyday, 1 person per card YVES ROCHER - 10% off all products - Valid everyday, 1 person per card

ACTIVITY WTC - World Training Center - 5% off Barista & Bakery classes - Valid everyday, 1 person per class.

HOTEL AMATA HOTELS MY BAGAN RESIDENCE - 5 % off room - 10 % off food - 10% off Spa Treatments at Nibbana Spa - Booking required, 2 people per card AMATA HOTELS RIVERSIDE HSIPAW RESORT - 5 % off room - 10 % off food - 10% off Spa Treatments at Nibbana Spa - Booking required, 2 people per card GOLDEN SILK ROAD HOTEL - 5% Discount on Room

Charges Monday to Friday - 1 Card per two persons HOTEL 51 - 15% off on all room types. - Valid everyday, 1 person per card HOTEL RED CANAL - 10% off Spa treatments (ladies only) - 10% off total bill at the Garden Restaurant - Booking required, 2 people per card INLE LOTUS HOTEL - 20% off total bill, incl Ticketing, Rentals, Trekking. - Valid everyday, 3 rooms per card, booking required ORCHID HOTEL - 10% off on all published room rates - 10 % off restaurant charges - Free fruit tray upon arrival - Valid Sunday to Thursday, 1 person per card, advance booking required PLATINUM HOTELS 4 outlets in Yangon - 20% off on all published room rates - Valid everyday, one room per card, at Hotel Platinum Tamwe, Mini Platinum Guesthouse Bahan, Platinum Riverview Hotel Dagon, Royal Platinum Hotel Bahan THAHARA (www.thahara.com) - 5% off on the published rates for all package booking from Oct to April - 10% off on the published rates for all package booking from May to September - Valid everyday, 2 people per card, advance booking required. VINTAGE LUXURY YACHT HOTEL - 10% off all room rates - Valid everyday.

SERVICES HINTHA BUSINESS CENTRES - One hour free wifi + a cup of Gourmet coffee once a month. - 10% off Meeting room rentals - 10% off Hot Desk packages (Daily, weekly, monthly) - 2 for 1 on hourly Hot Desk rental - Valid everyday, 1person per card, advance booking recommended

BUY YOUR MYANMORE CARD HERE! MYANMORE Office - 1st Floor, Annex Bld, Strand Hotel, 92 Strand Rd, Kyauktada Tsp | 01-375680 50TH STREET BAR Balance Fitness Monument Bookstore Inya Day Spa Padonmar Restaurant Orchid Hotel Happy Footprints


InDepth (MYANMORE) - Volume 17, March Issue  
InDepth (MYANMORE) - Volume 17, March Issue  

Yangon´s premium lifestyle magazine with more of arts, fashion, travel, music, bistronomy and more.

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