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where GUESTBOOK

where GUESTBOOK

BALTIMORE

BALTIMORE 2009-2010

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Frank & Nic’s West End Grille is Baltimore’s newest casually elegant destination, found in the base of the new Zenith luxury apartment tower in the heart of downtown. Frank and Nic’s West End Grille caters to all of your dining needs. Open daily at 11:30am, we are the west side’s answer for any occasion. Whether you are looking to host your own private function, have an outstanding meal with that special someone, wanting to relax late night in a hip and modern atmosphere, or getting ready to tailgate in style before any Raven’s or Oriole’s game, we can accommodate your needs. Frank & Nic’s generously sized private dining room is equipped with its own bar and can facilitate private functions of any nature with its state of the art audio/visual capabilities. Frank & Nic’s provides a world class meal with a service standard to match in a hip and enthusiastic environment; the most dynamic dining and entertainment experience to enthrall Charm City in years.

FRANK & NIC’S WEST END GRILLE

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511 W. Pratt St.

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Baltimore

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www.frankandnics.com

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410.685.6800

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contents

baltimore

8 First look Images of the life and landmarks of Charm City—from historic places and collections of fine art to mind-blowing museums and beloved playing fields

28 neighborhoods

Fells Point and Mount Vernon, Hampden and the Inner Harbor, Federal Hill and Little Italy...every enclave tells a story.

14 Spirit of Place Photographer Bill McAllen asked a crosssection of Baltimoreans to pose at a site that, for each, holds special meaning. by Laureen Miles

Daring hats and stylin’ handbags plus retail details on apparel, accessories, home decor, art, jewelry and gifts

34 Dining

20 Annapolis More than a bustling state capital, this historic city offers the charms of a seaport and the culture of a university town. by erica Teichert

24 Jump Start When Marylanders gather for steeplechases, they pack lavish picnics, dress to impress and celebrate the centuries-old sport of racing horses over hurdles. by richard brunelli

32 shopping

Worthy destinations by neighborood for crab cakes and steaks, pastas and pastries, tapas and tequila plus local brews

45 attractions A basilica’s renewal confirms reverence for the past and a commitment to nourish the spirit. So too do Baltimore’s museums and mansions, parks and gardens.

48 parting shot Boaters dock for the evening as the skyline illuminates the after hours. On the cover

Interior staircase of Patterson Park Pagoda Photo by Laureen Miles

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where GUESTBOOK

  

     

Baltimore

ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION ASSOCIATE Publisher

Jack Tomalis

                    

  

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Andre Lyles, Jimmie Thomas REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT

Rick Mollineaux Production coordinator

Aster Grahn CIRCULATION MANAGER

Kelly Hammond Morris Visitor Publications EXECUTIVE vice president, operations

Donna Kessler Vice president, operational innovation

Russ Leseberg Angela E. Allen Director of Maps

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Leleah Robinson CIRCULATION COORDINATOR

Jennifer Plesek E-mail addresses for all of the above : firstname.lastname@morris.com

Morris communications Chairman & ceo President

William S. Morris III

William S. Morris IV

MVP is a proud sponsor of Les Clefs d’Or USA

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where GUESTBOOK

ÂŽ

Baltimore

EDITORIAL EDITOR Laureen Miles associate eDITOR Jean Lawlor Cohen WHERe eDITORs Julie Wakefield,

Corinne Whiting

ART DIRECTOR Kelly Gallup contributing Writers Richard

Erica Teichert

Brunelli,

contributing photographers

Mark Berry, David Clow, Fredde Lieberman, Bill McAllen, Laureen Miles PRODUCTION Production MANAGER

Kris Miller Production coordinator

Mike Allen SENIOR Graphic designers

Josh Harting, Veronica Montesdeoca Graphic designers

Since 1940 Serving the famous house salad, homemade pastas, veal and local seafood specialties. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Family Friendly. Private Rooms. All major credit cards accepted. Valet parking available. 237 S. High St., Little Italy • (410) 837-0309 • www.chiapparellis.com

Matthew Cason, Tonietha Clayton Michael Dailey, Mickey Ebenroth Raquel Gardner, Erika Harris Digital Imaging manager Diann Giles Morris Visitor Publications CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer

Haines Wilkerson design director

Jane Frey senior editorial director

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J.P. Anderson creative coordinator

Beverly Mandelblatt

#OME/UT/F

9OUR3HELL

TECHNOLOGY TECHNICAL OPERATIONS MANAGER

Tony Thorne-Booth E-mails for all of the above: Firstname.lastname@morris.com

Baltimore editorial Office 575 S. Charles St. Suite 503 Baltimore, MD 21201 Phone: 410.783.7520; Fax: 410.783.1763 Web:

www.wheretraveler.com

Where GuestBook is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. MVP publishes Where Magazine, Where QuickGuides, IN New York, and IN London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides, and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association. Where GuestBook publishes editions for the following U.S. cities and regions: Arizona, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Colorado, Dallas, Florida Gold Coast (Fort Lauderdale & Palm Beach), Fort Worth, Hawaii (the Big Island), Houston, Jacksonville/ St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Kansas City, Kaua’i, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Milwaukee, New Orleans, New York, O’ahu, Orange County, Orlando/Winter Park, Philadelphia, Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill, Tampa Bay, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle/Tacoma, Southwest Florida (Naples), Tennessee (Nashville & Memphis), Tucson, Washington D.C., and Winston-Salem/Greensboro/High Point. Copyright Š 2008-2009 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement.

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contRIBUTORS s s

Erica Teichert Annapolis, page 20 A freelance writer whose articles have appeared in The Contra Costa Times (California) as well as Brigham Young University Magazine and The Daily Universe (Utah), Erica Teichert has written for and contributed photographs to Where Magazine (Baltimore, Northern Virginia and Washington, D.C.).

s s

Richard Brunelli

Jump Start, page 24 A journalist for more than 20 years, Richard Brunelli has written extensively on the arts, travel, business and Baltimore. A frequent contributor to Where Baltimore magazine as well as Where GuestBook Baltimore, he has looked at the emerging music scene in the Inner Harbor, nightlife in O’Donnell Square, the city’s fleet of historic ships and the restoration of the Hippodrome Theatre.

Photoby Miles credit Fredde gotham Lieberman; book Brunelli 5.5/9pt by Laureen Miles; McAllen by Charlie Knott

s s

Laureen Miles

ss

Bill McAllen

Spirit of Place, page 14 Baltimore-born and -raised, Bill McAllen got his start as a medical photographer at University of Maryland. Preferring to work with the living, McAllen launched a freelance career that has included photographing the construction and subsequent journeys of around-theworld schooner Pride of Baltimore II. He’s also spent a year shooting the changing seasons at Green Mount Cemetery and currently documents the coming and goings at the Port of Baltimore. See more of his work at www.mcallenphotography.com.

First Look, page 8 No other city (and there’ve been many) has ever felt as much like home to Miles as Baltimore. That makes her role as editor of Where GuestBook Baltimore and Where Baltimore magazine a delight. In a recent Where Baltimore, Miles took readers on a tour of the Harbor East neighborhood, an emerging upscale shopping and dining district near the Inner Harbor.

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firstlook Baltimore enlightens its people and lifts their spirits with fine art and fireworks, dinosaurs and dolphins and, of course, the beloved orioles

National Aquarium Supposedly Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, home to thousands of aquatic species, can be seen from space. That should guarantee some coverage in Animal Planet Australia: Wild Extremes at the National Aquarium in Baltimore, right? Think again. Instead this current exhibit tells the story of Australia’s sun-parched Northern Territory, a region that can turn from baked earth to swamp almost overnight. Baltimore’s world-renowned aquarium has always gone beyond simple displays of sea creatures to tackle more crucial notions of conservation and habitat. But after an underwater walkabout Down Under, visitors still enjoy traditional encounters—getting splashed by show-off dolphins, immersed in the scents, mists, bumps and squirts of a 3D movie or just watching a mama and her baby swimming by. 501 E. Pratt Street, 410-576-3800, www.aqua.org

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Walters Art Museum A 19th-century liquor baron and his son acquired extraordinary artworks for a collection spanning from antiquity to the 20th century. Three connected but distinct buildings hold 28,000 objects known for their pristine condition and rarity. The oldest section on Charles Street features a soaring sculpture court for European art, while the modern Centre Street building holds Egyptian mummies and reliquaries. 600 N. Charles Street, 410-547-9000, www.thewalters.org 10

PHOTO CREDIT GOTHAM BOOK 5.5/9PT

FIRST LOOK

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First Look

Baltimore Museum of Art

The BMA owns more than 90,000 works including the prestigious Cone Collection acquired in the early 1900s by prescient Baltimore sisters Claribel and Etta Cone. They visited the Paris studios of Henri Matisse (his “Purple Robe and Anemones” at right) and Pablo Picasso, purchased masterpieces by Paul Cézanne and Vincent van Gogh and assembled an impressive collection of textiles, jewelry, furniture and art from

©2007 succession H. Matisse, Paris/artists rights society (ARS) New York; Science center by Fredde Lieberman; fort mchenry courtesy maryland office of tourism

Africa, Asia and the Near East. In 2007, Matisse’s son gave 77 prints, bringing the BMA holdings to more than 600 of the artist’s paintings, sculptures, drawings, prints, and illustrated books and making it the largest Matisse collection in the world. 10 Art Museum Drive (near Johns Hopkins Homewood Campus), 443-573-1700, www.artbma.org

Maryland Science Center Walk in the footsteps of dinosaurs! Yes, climb into the craters of their tracks on a visit to this venue’s life-size dinosaur models. Also here: a planetarium, an observatory, an IMAX theater, the popular Kids Room, a cafe and store plus red rocks brought from Mars. Perhaps the most disconcerting encounter? The sight of bacteria that live in human bodies. 601 Light St., 410-685-5225, www.mdsci.org

Fort McHenry The city comes to celebrate patriotic holidays at this star-shaped fort that’s part of the urban landscape of South Baltimore. Citizens take most seriously Defenders Day (September 12), the holiday that marks the bombardment of Fort McHenry during the War of 1812. That naval battle inspired Francis Scott Key to pen the words to “The Star-Spangled Banner.” Now the commemoration includes fireworks, parades, military bands and more than 100 historical re-enactors, known as the Fort McHenry Guard. In summer the re-enactors are on hand most weekends to give folks a glimpse of life at the fort in its glory days, but Fort McHenry’s visitors center and exhibits stay open all year. E. Fort Ave., 410-962-4290, www.nps.gov/fomc W H E R E G U E ST B O O K 1 1

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First Look

Oriole Park at Camden Yards

It’s a grand slam at the city’s waterfront—an MLB ballpark that inspires special pride in the hearts of Baltimoreans. When Camden Yards opened in April 1992, there was nothing else like it in the country. It set a trend by melding bygone architectural charm with modern amenities and by choosing a downtown site when other cities were relocating their sports facilities to the suburbs. Now more than 20 other new ballparks echo its design and its nod to nostalgia.

PHOTOS courtesy maryland office of tourism

333 W. Camden Street, 888-848-BIRD, http://baltimore.orioles.mlb.com.

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Washington Monument

Baltimore takes great pride in the fact that its neoclassical tribute to George Washington pre-dates the more famous one in D.C. by 50 years. Conceived by Robert Mills, who also designed D.C.’s better known monolith, Baltimore’s 178-foot version is topped by a sculpture of the founding father in a toga. Visitors climb the 228 steps for a view of Mount Vernon and beyond. 600 Washington Pl., (410) 396-1049

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Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt

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Spirit

of Place Every picture has a story, every landmark a storyteller Photos by Bill McAllen

Text by Laureen Miles

There’s never one simple reason that a particular place becomes a favorite place. Credit some alchemy of aesthetics, memories, history and other indefinable factors. But people develop relationships with places as real as their relationships with each other. To document these connections, photographer Bill McAllen and writer Sara Achenbach produced Spirit of Place:

Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt

Baltimore’s Favorite Spaces, a soft-bound book of portraits—citizens at their chosen spots.

Hippodrome Theatre, built 1914 Tyler Gearhart, Executive Director of Preservation Maryland (facing page) An ornate but crumbling Vaudeville movie palace became the France-Merrick Performing Arts Center in 2004. Preservation Maryland fought hard to save it and its two bank building neighbors. Today a half-million people each year flock to the block-long entertainment complex to see Broadway shows and admire the meticulous restoration.

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MICA Brown Center, built 2003 Jackie Hrabowski, Vice President T. Rowe Price (facing page) Maryland Institute College of Art or MICA, founded in 1826, is one of the country’s oldest art colleges. Its contemporary Brown Center stands out among retrofitted architecture—a former firehouse, shoe factory, train station and clothing plant. Hrabowski admires the juxtaposition of MICA’s 1908 Main Building and the Brown’s geometric glass pyramid. green mount cemetery, dedicated 1839 Fred Rasmussen, reporter The Baltimore Sun (above) Nine Maryland governors, eight congressmen and a half dozen Civil War generals rest here, but the most famous occupant Lincoln assassin John Wilkes Booth lies in an unmarked grave in his family plot. Rasmussen likes to amble the grounds, admiring the stones of Johns Hopkins, Sidney Lanier and Allen Dulles, the pathways designed by Benjamin Latrobe. Pabst Castle, built 1897 David Simon, creator of HBO’s The Wire (right) David Simon, whose books and TV shows reveal the grittier side of Baltimore, sees this abandoned brewery on the outskirts of Federal Hill as a monument to manufacturing. He marvels that “someone bottling cheap, affordable beer had pride or vanity enough to tell their architect, their stonecutters, their masons to go the extra mile and create a little shard of Balmoral.” W H E R E G U E ST B O O K 1 7

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Walters Art Museum, completed 1907 Kevin “Kal” Kallaugher, editorial cartoonist The Economist (above) When he worked for The Baltimore Sun, Kallaugher observed much of “the ugly side of life.” So on his lunch hour he would often stroll the marble halls of the Walters Art Museum in Mount Vernon, studying the “beauty of humanity” in a collection that spans of 55 centuries of art Bromo-Seltzer Tower, built 1911 Rowland Fontz, retired horologist (above, right) Commissioned by the inventor of Bromo-Seltzer, the four-faced clock tower at Eutaw and Lombard streets, was once crowned by a 51-foot, rotating replica of the elixir’s cobalt blue bottle. Though the bottle disappeared in the 1930s, the

clock faces still spell out the tonic’s name. The clocks’ caretaker for more than three decades, Fontz was sometimes tasked with removing snow and ice from the eight-foot long, wood hands. George Peabody Library, built 1878 Rebecca Swanston, principal, Swanston & Associates, Inc. (facing) The sign in the foyer makes a somewhat obvious statement referring to this magnificent structure as “a cathedral of books.” The Mount Vernon landmark holds more than 300,000 volumes on five tiers of ornamental cast-iron balconies, all lit by a skylight 61 feet above the floor. Fells Point-based architect Swanston likes to bring visitors to the stacks where writer H. L. Mencken once kept a desk. For her, the majesty of the space “fills the soul, not just the mind.”

Look for Spirit of Place at local bookstores like Book Escape in Federal Hill (805 Light St.) or Barnes & Noble at Inner Harbor (601 E. Pratt Street). To see more of McAllen’s photography, go online at www.charmcitypublishing.com.

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CADETS COURTESY VISIT ANNAPOLIS; STREET SCENE ISTOCKPHOTO

ANNAPOLIS This city, often synonymous with the U.S. Naval Academy, has such a small town feel that many forget that it is also the capital of Maryland. It takes its name from two historic Annes—the wife of Lord Baltimore and a queen of England. But as visitors stroll the streets or arrive by cruisers and sailboats, they discover much more—performances by the Colonial Players theater company, a memorial to Kunta Kinte and Alex Haley, seafood restaurants and America’s third oldest institution of higher learning St. John’s College. Fortunately it’s all an easy day trip from Baltimore.

BY ERICA TEICHERT (FACING PAGE) NAVAL ACADEMY GRADUATES TOSS THEIR HATS IN CELEBRATION OF THEIR NEW COMMISSIONS. THROUGHOUT THE YEAR, VISITORS COME FOR DRESS PARADES AND FOR WEDDINGS AT A CHAPEL WITH TIFFANY WINDOWS. (ABOVE) COBBLED STREETS CURVE FROM ST. ANNE’S CHURCH PAST HISTORIC INNS, TAVERNS, SHOPS AND LIVE MUSIC VENUES DOWNHILL TO THE STATE HOUSE. W H E R E G U E ST B O O K

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(facing page) Maryland’s State House is the oldest continuously functioning government house in America. In 1783, when annapolis briefly served as the U.S. capital, George Washington came and, in the presence of other founding fathers, resigned his commission as commander-in-chief of the Continental Army.

sea view by istockphoto; colonial boy courtesy visit annapolis; Street by laureen miles; facing page courtesy maryland Office of Tourism

on Cruises that leave from the dock at the Annapolis Maritime Museum, sights include Thomas Point Lighthouse (above) and dramatic sunsets. Present-day “Colonials,” walking Old Town’s brick paths, tell stories of bygone days and those who lived in the colonial- and Federal-era rowhouses.

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Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt

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Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt

Rider and horse glide over the rails at Shawan Downs in Baltimore County.

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Jump Start At maryland steeplechases, the thrills of the race make for a good party By Richard Brunelli

I

f such a thing existed as a pantheon of America’s mass-market sports, steeplechase horse racing would likely fall somewhere between curling and kite-flying. Not that there’s anything wrong with either of those pastimes. But if there were a rating system for sporting events, the ones that afford spectators unprecedented, up-close-and-personal experiences in charming, bucolic settings, then the steeplechase might be near the top of the list. Fortunately there’s no better place than Maryland to see the action. This brand of cross-country horse racing compares to the more widely followed, flat-course horse racing with one rather important difference: Someone has come along, without the prior consent of the horses themselves, and put obstacles in the way—obstacles that they must jump over! With persons on their backs! It’s all good fun, of course, unless a rider makes an infinitesimal miscalculation of balance and ends up crossing an obstacle through air, detached from a saddle rather than on the horse’s back. According to Bill Gallo, racing director for the National Steeplechase Association, that expains another part of the sport’s attraction. “Steeplechase is a colorful, exciting sport and a wonderful social scene, but there’s a certain element of danger to it,” he says. “Spectators get very close to the action. ”

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It’s not uncommon for spectators—

farm-studded counties to the north and west of Baltimore. Today riders choose one of two principal disciplines. Timber racing, in which horses must leap over wooden fences or posts, proves to be more “oldschool.” Hurdle racing, which features portable, uniformly constructed obstacles, is the later, new-fangled variety. Each year in April, Maryland hosts three events on successive weekends that form the triple crown of the timber racing circuit—the My Lady Manor, the Grand National and the Maryland Hunt Cup. The Hunt Cup, which dates to 1894, is considered the granddaddy of them all. Aficionados insist that its four-mile, 22-fence course is one of the sport’s most challenging.

The race also represents the pinnacle of timber racing’s social scene. It’s not uncommon for spectators—women in fashionable hats, men in bow ties and bowlers—to project a Great Gatsbylike vibe. And there’s tailgating—elegant spreads of food and drink, repasts decidedly more serene than picnics at Ravens Stadium. Guests no doubt weigh

and tourism; (Bottom) ©Mark barry

No doubt the social aspect wasn’t a prime consideration when, in 1752, two neighboring fox hunters in County Cork, Ireland, decided it would be good sport to race their horses from Buttevant Church to St. Mary’s Church. By the turn of the century, this steepleto-steeple race had organized as a genuine sport and, in 1834, made its U.S. debut at the Washington Jockey Club in Washington, D.C. In 1873, Baltimore’s Pimlico Race Course hosted its first steeplechase and, for a variety of reasons, established Maryland as the epicenter of steeplechase horse racing. It still is, Marylanders like to think. They credit their claim to the state’s long history of fox hunting, particularly in the scenic,

baltimore county conference

women in fashionable hats, men in bow ties and bowlers—to project a Great Gatsby-like vibe.

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Steeplechase 101 Since the sport of steeplechase horse racing is not a national pastime and may be unfamiliar, note a few terms.

Allowance:

Exceptions made to jockey weights according to a horse’s age, track record or gender.

Apprentice:

A relatively new jockey or a non-winner of past races. All must be 16 years old to obtain license.

Clerk of Scales:

jockey by Jim Kirby

by DAVID CLOW; vintage B&W National steeplechase association;

sign courtesy Baltimore CountyConference and Tourism; official

Person responsible for weighing riders before and after.

the pros and cons not of Bud versus Natty Boh but of Chardonnay versus Shiraz. Joe Clancy agrees. He’s editor and publisher of The Steeplechase Times, headquartered like the National Steeplechase Association in Fair Hill, Maryland. “The emphasis at these events is enjoying a great day outdoors and catching up with people,” he says. “The crowd is usually well-heeled. But they don’t have to be. College students follow the sport, and it’s a great family atmosphere too.” Beyond the loftier tone of the tailgaters, other factors distinguish this from most mass-market sports. For one, fans are not assigned seats or cordoned off behind ropes (as at golf tourna-

ments). Steeplechase spectators pick their own spots—near a fence as the horses and riders thunder over it, by the finish line or any place in between. Another difference is financial. Owners of horses know that prize money, if any, never covers expenses. (Maryland purses range from $75,000 to $50!) Riders, most non-professional and unpaid, are usually in the horse business, working at stables or tracks. As for the fans, no one wagers (at least officially) on steeplechase racing. “There’s none of that,” Gallo says. “The people who follow steeplechase do it for only one reason, and that’s for the love of the sport. We don’t have a big following. But we have a passionate following.”

Maiden: A horse that has

never won a steeplechase event. Thoroughbreds successful at flat racing must return to “maiden” status in a steeplechase.

Open Company:

Entry unrestricted by horse’s experience, gender, age.

Outriders:

Mounted officials who escort entries to post, corral strays and help with crowd control.

Wings: The panels on either side

of a steeplechase fence. They are designed to guide the horse to the jump.

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Kooky or cultured, each enclave reveals some facet of the city’s persona

Mount Vernon residences, photo by Laureen Miles

Neighborhoods

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Photos: Mount Vernon, Hampden by Laureen Miles; Inner Harbor, Maryland Office of Tourism

Mount Vernon The small, leafy neighborhood of palatial homes, pristine public gardens, fountains and sculptures has always been an impressive address in Baltimore. Early in the 19th century, America’s first monument to George Washington and first basilica set the neighborhood apart. Later philanthropists Henry and William Walters, George Peabody and Enoch Pratt built institutions like the Walters Art Gallery, the Peabody Institute and the Enoch Pratt Free Library, making Mount Vernon the city’s center of culture and arts. Today the cultural legacy continues with music at Meyerhoff Symphony Hall and the Lyric Opera House as well as diversions like dining, boutiques, festivals and nightlife.

Hampden Colorfully painted porches and rowhouse yards with miniature windmills and yard gnomes line the streets of Hampden, a favorite spot of campy filmmaker John Waters. Once a working-class neighborhood with a passion for kitsch, this free-spirited enclave a few miles north of downtown still loves anything retro, but meets the gentrification with an alternative, eco-minded approach. The shops on Hampden’s main drag hawk items ranging from organic body lotions and Wiccan crystals to crab shell art and pink flamingos. Every December, people come from all over to see the “Miracle on 34th Street,” a single block decked out with so many lights it’s surely visible from space. And in June, Hampden throws a party to honor the “Baltimore Hon,” the big-haired, gum-cracking gal who greets friends and strangers with the endearment “hon.”

Inner Harbor The National Aquarium and Camden Yards are Baltimore landmarks today, but 30 years ago neither was part of the Inner Harbor’s cityscape. In fact, when the Inner Harbor’s revitalization began, residents scoffed at the idea that tourists (or anyone else) would come here. Until then, only sailors, dockworkers and other brave souls populated the waterfront. But city planners envisioned attractions, hotels, restaurants and a promenade in the decaying port zone just south of downtown. Today the Inner Harbor surprises even the visionaries.

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Little Italy Little Italy is like an Old World village, where the older men gather for a game of bocce, and the local church is the hub of the community. But for the visitor, there’s one clear thing to do here: Eat! The tiny enclave near the Inner Harbor has only a few shops and no hotels, but dozens of Italian restaurants line its narrow, crooked streets. The menus and atmospheres of each eatery paint slightly different culinary portraits—from stuffy to chic, from pizza to pastries. Locals fill up on cannoli and gelato from neighborhood stalwart Vaccaro’s Italian Pastry Shop.

Fells Point In the last three centuries, this waterfront neighborhood has had nearly as many different incarnations as it has bars today. Founded in 1730, the area’s proximity to farms and forests contributed to its growth as a seaport. In the 1830s, Fredrick Douglass toiled as a slave on its busy docks before escaping to freedom. Now the area has become steadily more prosperous, a dining and nightlife destination as well as a hip residential neighborhood. During the day, cobblestone side streets seem quiet and genteel. But after dark, the district’s rowdy nature surfaces on the main streets until the early morning hours.

Federal Hill The designation “Federal Hill” could refer to a park, a historic site or the neighborhood, each with the same name. But the three are so intertwined that it hardly matters. Rising from the western bank of the waterfront the hill and park provide a stunning view of the Inner Harbor. Where 18th-century residents once gathered to celebrate the birth of a nation, a trendy urban enclave now spreads down a gentle incline. Here one finds the old-fashioned Cross Street Market selling wares from crabs to calla lilies. Though known for dining and nightlife, the neighborhood attracts many with its American Visionary Arts Museum. That mosaic-encrusted venue pays tribute to “outsider art,” objects by creative souls who work outside the academic tradition.

Photos: Little Italy, Federal Hill by Laureen Miles; Fells Point, courtesy Visit Baltimore

NEIGHBORHOODS

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Shopping

Hats On! While Easter and Preakness are the most obvious times to don one-of-akind toppers, Hats in the Belfry encourages them for any occasion or season. The old-fashioned milliner in the Inner Harbor and Fells Point has sold the trad Preakness straw bonnet (think black-eyed Susan-decked) for 30 years. Any time, find styles classic, clever, even comical at 200 E. Pratt St., Inner Harbor, (410) 528-0060 or 813b S. Broadway, Fells Point, (410) 342-7480.

BENJAMIN LOVELL SHOES 618 S. Exeter St. (410) 244-5359 www.benjaminlovellshoes.com Named Baltimore’s best shoe store, this emporium is tucked away in Harbor East and offers top men’s and women’s brands including Dansko, Donald Pliner, Cole Haan. CUPCAKE SHOES AND APPAREL 813-5 S. Broadway (410) 522-0441 www.cupcake-shop.com A spacious shop amid Fells Point’s tiny boutiques, this store claims to stock everything the modern gal might need to fill her closet: shoes, jeans, dresses and more. HANDBAGS IN THE CITY 612 Exeter St. (410) 528-1443 www.handbagsinthecity.com Can’t find a bag to match those shoes? Head to this boutique in the Harbor East neighborhood. Find everything from Isabella Fiore to Badgley Mischka.

URBAN CHIC 811 Aliceanna St. (410) 685-1601 www.urbanchiconline.com Harbor East shop with rustic, beach-house theme carries fashions ranging from men’s to maternity, all with a bit of an edge. Plus pick up home items, or browse the expanded selection of denim. zelda zen 46 E. Cross St. (410) 625-2424 Welcoming boutique in Federal Hill sells artisan jewelry, tapestry scarves, warm yet stylish hats and Votivo candles.

FOR THE HOME ARHAUS 660 S. Exeter Street (410) 244-6376 www.arhaus.com Concentrating on the home, Arhouse’s artfully arranged furnishings are packed into a spacious corner storefront. Well-crafted furniture comes from Tuscany, Bali and Mexico as well as fine domestic sources.

MEREDITH GALLERY 805 N. Charles St. (800) 753-3575 www.meredithgallery.com This Mount Vernon gallery specializes in functional, funky American art-furniture, plus contemporary craft collectibles and accessories. Catalogues available as well. SU CASA 901 S. Bond St. (410) 522-7010 www.esucasa.com Stylish Fells Point furniture and home accessories boutique features an eclectic array of decorative arts, wine accessories, items for the kitchen and kids stuff.

GALLERIES BALTIMORE CLAYWORKS 5707 Smith Ave. (410) 578-1919 www.baltimoreclayworks.org This nonprofit gallery features functional, beautiful ceramics from local artists.

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PHOTO by Laureen Miles

APPAREL & ACCESSORIES

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C. GRIMALDIS GALLERY 523 N. Charles St. (410) 539-1080 www.cgrimaldisgallery.com The C. Grimaldis Gallery has promoted contemporary art in Baltimore for more than 25 years. The focus is on post-World War II art and representing artists of both local and international renown. The small storefront gallery, with its stark white walls and pale hardwood floors, provides changing shows.

MUD & METAL 813 W. 36th St. (410) 467-8698 www.mudandmetals.com With a mix of jewelry, American-made crafts and hardware, this Hampden boutique probably has the largest collection of arty pulls and knobs in town. Pulls are in unusual shapes like insects or moons, and many knobs are formed into words that match function—like “junk” or “underwear.”

ROBERT MCCLINTOCK STUDIO GALLERY 1809 Thames St. (410) 814-2800 www.robertmcclintock.com This Fells Point gallery-studio exhibits vibrant works depicting the quirkiness and beauty of Baltimore. McClintock’s medium incorporates photography with digital painting to create unique yet accessible art.

PERSONAL SERVICES

JEWELRY & GIFTS 2910 ON THE SQUARE 2910 O’Donnell St. (410) 675-8505 www.2910onthesquare.com On Canton’s O’Donnell Square, this diverse little shop features an extensive collection of artisan jewelry, accessories and Judaica as well as pet items and objects for the home. AMARYLLIS 612 S. Exeter St. (410) 576-7622 www.amaryllisjewelry.com Serving the Inner Harbor for two decades, this locally owned and operated shop offers hand-crafted, fine jewelry. Located on the first level of the Gallery at Harborplace. BEADAZZLED 501 N. Charles St. (410) 837-2323 www.beadazzled.net Create your own original jewelry, or buy something ready made. Either way the beads at this Mount Vernon shop are exquisite. MAJA 1744 Aliceanna St. (410) 327-9499 Maja in Fells Point carries furniture, African and Asian artifacts and Harmony Kingdom, Rinconada and Maasa collectibles.

SPA SANTÉ 1429 Aliceanna St. (410) 534-0009 www.spabaltimore.com Upstairs salon inside an old factory in trendy Harbor East offers touch therapy, facials, body treatments plus hair and nail salon services. Couples and VIP suites available. H TOSCANA MEDISPA 202 S. Albemarle St. (410) 837-2262 www.toscanamedispa.com Little Italy spa combines health and beauty services promising a brand new you. Smoking cessation and weigth loss sessions along with varicose vein and laser acne treatments provide the “medi,” while hair, nail, waxing, massage and facials reflect “spa.”

RETAIL CENTERS CROSS STREET MARKET Light & Cross Sts.; Federal Hill www.bpmarkets.com Opened in 1846, Cross Street is part of Baltimore’s public market system, one of a few left in the country. Don’t just go for the history; go for the food. You’ll find anything from fresh crabs and seafood to wings, ice cream and pastries. A local favorite is the raw bar at Nick’s Seafood. Also available here are flowers, cheese, tobacco, fruit and fish. HARBORPLACE & THE GALLERY 200 East Pratt St. (410) 332-4191 www.harborplace.com With many Baltimore-specific shops and specialty stalls, Harborplace encourages strolling, shopping and noshing. Pratt and Light Street Pavilions boast a wealth of

popular restaurants. Connected by a skywalk across Pratt Street, the Gallery is the place for the big-name national retailers like Brooks Brothers, Gap, Godiva Chocolatier, and Victoria’s Secret, among the many shops at this vertical mall. LEXINGTON MARKET Lexington and Eutaw Sts. (410) 685-6169 www.lexingtonmarket.com The largest of Baltimore’s six old-fashioned market houses, this one opened in 1872. It’s home to Faidley’s Seafood, which serves “America’s best crabcake,” as rated by GQ. Shoppers find mounds of fresh produce, cases of assorted baked goods and an array of local meats from 130 merchants.

WINE/GOURMET FOODS CHESAPEAKE WINE COMPANY 2400 Boston St. (410) 685-6169 Canton establishment sells a vast and discerning selection of vintages from around the globe and stocks a full selection of spirits.and Also home to one of Baltimore’s most progressive wine bars. Sample a flight of various vintages, and enjoy a light-fare menu. GLARUS CHOCOLATIER 644 S. Exeter St. (410) 727-6601 www.glaruschocolatier.com Traditional Swiss chocolate company offers handmade, fresh-cream truffles, Swiss-style assorted chocolates, and other specialties. URBAN CELLARS 222 N. Charles St. (410) 524-8088 www.urbancellarsmd.com “Local libations” in a boutique downtown space serving domestic and international fine wines, craft beers and premium liquors. WHOLE FOODS MARKET 1001 Fleet St. (410) 528-1640 Within walking distance of the Inner Harbor, organic grocer offers prepared foods and has a café. Free parking in adjacent garage with validation. Café opens 7 a.m

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Dining

Top-Tier Dining

American cuisine and seasonal specials makes this Federal Hill eatery a dining destination as well.

Baltimore’s Power Plant in the Inner Harbor since 1997. No need for directions; you can’t miss the giant guitar.

ESPN ZONE 601 E. Pratt St. (410) 685-3776 Inside the Power Plant entertainment complex in the Inner Harbor, this 35,000-squarefoot facility has an elaborate media room with restaurant seating, satellite television and sport and video games.

HELEN’S GARDEN 2908 O’Donnell St. (410) 276-2233 www.helensgarden.com This Canton restaurant offers dishes with a Mediterranean flair in an arty, welcoming space. The bar is a popular hangout for wine lovers.

COBURN’S TAVERN AND GRILL 2921 O’Donnell St. (410) 342-0999 www.coburnstavern.com Comfortable, classy bar on Canton’s unofficial nightlife district, O’Donnell Square, Coburn’s offers dinner entrees a cut above tavern fare, including chicken, steak, rockfish Baltimore and a crab cake platter.

GERTRUDE’S 10 Art Museum Dr. (410) 889-3399 www.gertrudesbaltimore.com Inside the Baltimore Museum of Art, Gertrude’s serves classic Chesapeake fare. Acclaimed chef John Shields dazzles with signature crab cakes and steaks.

J. PAUL’S 301 Light Street, Harborplace (410) 659-1889 www.j-pauls.com Hearty comfort food (pit burgers, jumbo lump crab cakes, ribs, and J. Paul’s unique cheddar soup) served amid turn-of-the-century saloon décor inside Harborplace.

CORK’S 1026 S. Charles St. (410) 752-3810 www.corksrestaurant.com As the name suggests, the wine list is the star attraction, but a menu of creative New

HARD ROCK CAFÉ 601 E. Pratt St. (410) 347-7625 Founded in swinging London as an American “hamburger joint” with a rock ‘n roll motif, this location of the famous chain has been in

KOOPER’S TAVERN 1702 Thames St. (410) 563-5423 www.koopers.com This neighborhood bar in Fells Point welcomes all with hearty seafood and thought-

AMERICAN CAFE HON 1002 W. 36th St. (410) 243-1230 Want to be in a John Waters movie? He scouts this quirky Hampden eatery, where the focus is on old-school Charm City cuisine. Specialties include classic meatloaf, homemade mashed potatoes, house lasagna, fresh-baked pies and bread pudding.

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PHOTO BY LAureen miles

The exterior of Baltimore’s McCormick & Schmick’s location matches the modern architecture of the Inner Harbor skyline. Yet its two levels of glass-and-steel and expansive waterfront patio belie a much more formal interior. Hand-crafted mahogany woodwork and stained glass create a dining ambiance reminiscent of bygone days. Traditional seafood dishes, each with something of a contemporary twist, mirror the stylistic dichotomy. 711 Eastern Ave. (410) 234-1300

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Ropewalk

A Federal Hill Tavern Featuring The 3rd Floor Smoke Easy Cigar Bar & McFaul’s Irish Pub

Come see history alive and well in Federal Hill Ropewalk is where revolutionary patriots twined and spindled ropes for war ships in the eighteenth century. Dating back to the days of the founding fathers themselves, this cask and barrel warehouse was built to last with thick plank floors and brawny angular support beams held together with iron lag bolts. The two story pool room toward the north wall is protected by the powerful unity of the American national standard and ‘Don’t Tread On Me,’ the first Navy Jack. The McFaul family proprietors have complimented these honest details with a fine collection of cigar store Indians, making Ropewalk the only cigar friendly tavern on the Hill. The tavern caters to non-smokers and smokers alike with six bars on three floors, the first two floors are non-smoking, the third is the Smoke Easy Lounge, one of only two Taverns approved in Maryland for smoking inside an actual bar. Ropewalk’s recent million dollar expansion added McFaul’s Irish themed pub rooms. So whether you want to try Irish fare, an award winning Maryland Crab cake, Happy Hour seven days a week, one of our 125 brews, $1 crabs on weekends in the summer, or just want to light up a fine cigar from our humidors, Ropewalk welcomes you as it has done throughout its history.

1209 South Charles Street | 410-727-1298

Everyone is talking about the hottest new bar with a New York club feel. • 75 Vodkas • Stone Oven Pizzas • Frozen Top Gun Red Bull & Vodka • Frozen Slushies $4.50 or less all the time Every Thursday: Live DJ, $1 Bud Light, Frozens only $2 BLTGB_090900_Ropewalk Tavern.ind2 2

26 E Cross St. Federal Hill 410.244.6722 www.stalkinghorsefederalhill.com 8/21/09 2:07:57 PM


Dining

fully prepared tavern fare: sandwiches, steaks and pasta dishes. On Sundays, it puts on a spread for a casual brunch. M&S GRILL 201 E. Pratt St. (410) 547-9333 The bar, known for cocktails made with fresh squeezed juices, is an after-work hangout. The dining room in this Harborplace property offers regional seafood, steaks, prime chops, pot roast and roasted chicken. H MOTHER’S FEDERAL HILL GRILLE 1113 S. Charles St. (410) 244-8686 www.mothersgrille.com Mother’s is a Federal Hill institution and, with a recent renovation, it’s even bigger and better. Walk in to find 17 TVs, pool tables and a dance floor for times DJs set up on the weekends. Crab cakes, burgers and colossal salads are on the menu. REGI’S AMERICAN BISTRO 1002 Light St. (410) 539-7344 www.regisamericanbistro.com Contemporary American classics at this popular spot draws accolades from Federal Hill visitors and residents alike For sports fanatics, Regi’s opens an hour early on football Sundays. H ROPEWALK TAVERN 1209 S Charles St. (410) 727-1298 www.ropewalktavern.com One of a few Maryland bars exempt from the indoor smoking ban. Pre-prohibition tavern with pre-colonial history. Sample steamed shrimp with rush sauce while sipping a chilled beer. SASCHA’S 527 527 N. Charles St. (410) 539-8880 During the day, cuisine is served cafeteria style, but don’t get the wrong impression of this elegant Mount Vernon eatery. After the sun goes down, servers hit the floor with sophisticated fare like roasted turkey with cucumbers and country mustard or smoked turkey with cheddar quiche.

BREW PUBS Brewer’s Art 1106 N. Charles St. (410) 547-6925 www.thebrewersart.com Innovative, contemporary fare and housemade Belgian-style ales are on the menu in this opulent turn-of-the-century Mount Vernon mansion. Seasonal menus feature meat, seafood and vegetarian items, plus a wide array of fine wines, spirits and international beers that complement the house brews. DuClaw Brewing CoMpany 901 S. Bond St. 410-563-3400 www.duclaw.com Fells Point brew pub in rehabbed waterfront warehouse takes beer seriously, and it shows. The local brews run the gamut from amber ales to porters with many delicious stops in between.

CAJUN AND CREOLE LOUISIANA 1708 Aliceanna St. (410) 327-2610 www.louisianasrestaurant.com Elegant Fells Point eatery takes the downhome cuisine of its namesake and elevates it to high style both in presentation and taste. On the innovative menu, traditional Creole staples like andouille sausage and collard greens appear alongside dishes like roasted beets with goat cheese and apples.

CHINESE DING HOW 631 S. Broadway (410) 327-8888 Traditional Chinese fare conveniently located in the heart of Fells Point offers both a comfortable dine-in area and free delivery to the surrounding areas and hotels.

COFFEE SHOPS AND CAFÉS A COMMON GROUND 819 W. 36th St. (410) 235-5533 This Hampden coffee shop starts folks off with bagels, muffins and croissants in the

morning and then for lunch fills tanks with hearty turkey, ham and tuna sandwiches and wraps plus homemade soup daily. THE DAILY GRIND 1720 Thames St. (410) 558-0399 www.grind.com Begun on a shoe-string budget more than a decade ago, this relaxed spot in Fells Point is the place for hearty cups of java, enjoyed with simple coffee-house fare. Additional locations are at Johns Hopkins Homewood Campus and in Roland Park. DONNA’S CAFE & COFFEE BAR 800 N. Charles St. (410) 385-0180 Stop in for fresh croissants, scones and muffins in the morning or decadent desserts in the evening. A bright menu of light fare complements the extensive beverage selection, including beer and a modestly priced wine list.

DELI ATTMAN’S AUTHENTIC NEW YORK DELICATESSEN 1019 E. Lombard St. (410) 563-2666 The name says it all. Hot corned beef, New York hot pastrami and award-winning kosher hot dogs are on the menu. Bagels and lox, knishes and matzo ball soup. Baltimoreans head to this spot just east of downtown when seeking authentic Jewish-deli food.

French Crepe du Jour 1609 Sulgrave Ave. (410) 542-900 www.crepedujour.com Come at lunchtime for all types of crepes, including sugar and lemon, plus ratatouille, and walnuts and blue cheese. At dinnertime find various French-inspired entrées. Petit Louis Bistro 4800 Roland Ave. (410) 366-9393 www.petitlouis.com Popular casual French restaurant proves that French food doesn’t have to be fancy to be good. The always changing, moderately priced menu offers traditional bistro fare such as mussels Provencale, pate maison and bistro steak with frites.

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Serving the Freshest, Finest Seafood

PHILLIPSSEAFOOD.COM BALTIMORE INNER HARBOR t LIGHT STREET PAVILION t 410.685.6600 RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED

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IT’S MORE FUN IN THE RA.

Dining

Greek Black Olive 814 S Bond St. (410) 276-7141 www.theblackolive.com Acclaimed Greek seafood restaurant on a cobblestone side street in Fells Point offers organic winners such as grilled octopus salad and sushi grade tuna steak. Land options include rack of lamb. Ikaros 4805 Eastern Ave. (410) 633-3750 It’s worth the trip to Greektown for the hearty and filling taramasalata, a smooth blend of cod roe infused with garlic, or the lamb kapama, a heap of slow-baked young lamb nestled in rice pilaf and topped with tomato sauce.

Serving fresh sushi, Japanese-fusion cuisine and signature dishes so good that you can’t stop thinking about next time. Great food and casual fun–perfectly mixed. We’ll show you a good time. Come see why it’s more fun in the RA.

Samos 600 S. Oldham St. (410) 675-5292 www.samosrestaurant.com Visitors exploring Southeast Baltimore should look for Samos, a tiny, off-the-beatenpath place with Formica tables and authentic Greek food. Enjoy their salads, a boundless supply of pita bread, moussaka, gyros, dolmas, and shish kabob.

HAWAIIAN FUSION

Voted Best Sushi in Baltimore magazine’s 2009 Readers Poll

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ROY’S 720-B Aliceanna St. (410) 659-0099 No, Hawaiian fusion cuisine is not typical Baltimore fare. Yes, this popular location of an upscale national chain sits right in the upand-coming neighborhood of Harbor East, where diners select dishes like jumbo lump crab cakes, blackened-island ahi, macadamia nut-crusted mahi mahi and Japanese-style, misoyaki-seared butterfish.

IRISH

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CLADDAGH PUB 2918 O’Donnell St. (410) 522-4220 At this Canton tavern the fish & chips are battered in beer and every entrĂŠe comes with a side of “mashers.â€? Upstairs is late-night watering hole; downstairs elegant pub dining.

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s p e c i a l a d v ert i s i n g se c t i o n

edo sushi

tÍo pepe

Recognized as “Best of Baltimore” by Baltimore magazine every year since 1997, Edo Sushi is the place to go for outstanding authentic Japanese food. Check out their sushi bar for a fresh assortment of seafood. From their kitchen, you can choose from an exciting array of hot noodle soups, fresh salads, tasty appetizers, crispy tempura dishes, teriyaki platters, and more. Unlike other sushi restaurants, Edo Sushi offers a yakitori grill, more than 10 varieties of Sake, a complete selection of Japanese beers, and unique specialty cocktails. Try Edo Sushi’s signature maki rolls such as the Harbor Maki, shrimp tempura roll with avocado and jumbo lump crabmeat on top, drizzled with a special sweet citrus sauce. If you would like to try some of the very best sushi and Japanese cuisine in the Baltimore area, be sure to visit one of the several excellent Edo Sushi restaurants. You’re in for a rare treat. Edo Sushi offers four locations in the Baltimore area, all open daily for lunch and dinner. Major credit cards are accepted. Explore their website at www.edosushimd.com for details.

Consistently rated as one of the area’s best restaurants, Tío Pepe has been captivating its extensive clientele since 1968—not surprising, since the infinite beauty and enchantment of Spain permeate its romantic dining rooms and cozy alcoves. The menu at Tío Pepe clearly focuses on traditional Spanish specialties and continental dishes with a Spanish flavor. The freshest seafood and perfectly cooked aged meats complement perennial favorites such as sautéed chicken and lobster or roast suckling pig. To accompany discerning diners’ meals, Tío Pepe’s award-winning cellar offers one of the nation’s premier selections of Spanish wines. These many charms add up to a thoroughly memorable occasion any time you dine at Tío Pepe. Open for lunch weekdays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 11:30 p.m.; Sunday, 4 to 10 p.m. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V

Edo Sushi Inner Harbor, 201

Edo Sushi II, 10347

E. Pratt St., Ste. 2075, Baltimore

Reisterstown Rd., Owings Mills

410.843.9804

410.363.7720

Edo Sushi, 53 E. Padonia Rd.,

Edo Mae Sushi, 10995 Owings

Lutherville Timonium

Mills Blvd., Owings Mills

410.667.9200

410.356.6818

10 E. Franklin St., Baltimore

410.539.4675

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s p e c i a l a d v ert i s i n g se c t i o n

rusty scupper baltimore has a beauty all its own

For lunch, for dinner or for drinks after work. Enjoy sweeping 360-degree views of the Inner Harbor from every table. Our fine chef and personable staff will thrill you with our exciting cuisine, wonderful selections of local seafood and fine wines. Voted “the Best View of Balitmore” by Baltimore Magazine, the Rusty Scupper also offers a fabulous Sunday Jazz Brunch, private function space, Happy Hour and live piano entertainment. Complimentary shuttle is available. 402 Key Hwy, Inner Harbor Marina, Baltimore

410.727.3678 www.rusty-scupper.com

Sotto sopra The restaurant is housed in a beautiful 19th century building just seven blocks north of Baltimore’s Harborplace on Charles Street, at the gateway to the city’s cultural center. Sotto Sopra specializes in true contemporary Italian cuisine. We’ve been voted Baltimore’s Best Italian Restaurant numerous years and listed in Zagat’s Top 1000 Italian Restaurants. There is something for everyone’s pocket from our happy hour $10 pastas, special pre-fixe menus and wine tastings. The perfect risotto, handmade pastas, roasted meats, local seafood and regional produce are here for your total enjoyment. We welcome you to dine with us for lunch, Monday through Saturdays and dinner every evening.   Learn more about Sotto Sopra and our special events at our website, Facebook and Twitter.

Night of the Cookers Night of the Cookers, new Baltimore restaurant features local favorites such as our homemade 6 oz crab cakes; southern favorites e.g. Sweet Georgia Brown salad, Meat and Three entrees, appetizers such as Angus Sliders and Fried Calamari; desserts such as homemade Banana Pudding. Mention WhereMagazine and get a free appetizer for 2 purchased entrees. Private parties welcome (up to 50ppl)   Hours of Operation WEDNESDAY 5PM-12AM, THURSDAY 5PM -12 AM, FRIDAY 5PM-1AM, SATURDAY 5PM -1AM, SUNDAY 11AM- 4PM. For reservations call 410.383.2095. 885 N. Howard St., Baltimore

410.383.2095 www.nightofthecookers.com

405 N. Charles St., Baltimore

410.625.0534 www.sottosoprainc.com Blog: www.sottosoprainc.blogspot.com

NIGHT OF THE COOKERS

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Dining

JAMES JOYCE IRISH PUB 616 S. President St. (410) 727-5107 The menu of classic Irish fare has a distinctly American twist. If shepherd’s pie and corned beef and cabbage aren’t appealing, try chicken club or the steak sandwich. However, the décor is all Irish. In fact, the entire interior of the pub was shipped from the Emerald Isle. SLAINTE IRISH PUB & RESTAURANT 1702 Thames St. (410) 563-6600 www.slaintepub.com Slainte (pronounced slan-cha) is Gaelic for good health and prosperity. At this Fells Point pub that means Guinness onion soup made gooey with cheddar, Irish stew, bangers and mash and shepherd’s pie piled high with whipped mashed potatoes.

ITALIAN ALDO’S 306 S. High St. (410) 727-0700 www.aldositaly.com Nestled amid the narrow streets of Little Italy, the hallmark of Aldo’s fine dining is its excellent southern-influenced regional dishes with house-made ingredients like pancetta and soppressata or pickled vegetables. H CHIAPPARELLI’S 237 S. High St. (410) 837-0309 www.chiapparellis.com One of Little Italy’s largest and most beloved restaurants, Chiapparelli’s serves heaping portions of pasta, classic veal dishes and a great house salad. CIAO BELLA 236 S. High St. (410) 685-7733 Charming Little Italy eatery with pasta dishes, veal saltimbocca and seafood entrées, Ciao Bella’s owner-chef Tony Gambino serves classics plus his own inventions. H DELLA NOTTE 801 Eastern Ave. (410) 837-5500 Classically-inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine in a Mediterranean villa-style setting, this Little Italy landmark has originals like gnocchi alla Romana baked with Taleggio cheese finished with a white truffle oil. Save room for one of the sumptuous desserts.

GERMANO’S 300 S. High St. (410) 752-4515 The three attractive and spacious dining rooms are suffused with the sun of Tuscany. Try crêpes with spinach and ricotta or taglierini in a veal sauce. H SOTTO SOPRA 405 N. Charles St. (410) 625-0534 www.sottosoprainc.com Just what diners want in an Italian restaurant: efficient and friendly service, classic dishes and a few culinary surprises. The lamb chops in panko and mustard on a bed of gorgonzola polenta is popular. So is the gnocchi di ricotta. But save room for dessert: The crepes are great. VACCARO’S 222 Albemarle St. (410) 685-4905 www.vaccarospastry.com Modestly dubbing itself “the place for desserts,” it doesn’t take long inside this Little Italy pastry shop to see what an understatement that is. More than two dozen varieties fill its cases: cookies, plus rum cake, six kinds of cheesecake, tiramisu, sfogliatelli, pasticiotti, eclairs, gelati, Napoleons, mini cream puffs and—crowning achievement—cannoli.

JAPANESE H EDO SUSHI 201 East Pratt St. (410) 843-9804 A tranquil oasis amid the activity in Harborplace, this eatery offers sushi, noodle dishes salads and teriyaki. Minato 800 N. Charles St. (410) 332-0332 www.minatosushibar.com Contemporary Japanese cuisine and an extensive sushi bar have made this Mount Vernon restaurant a local favorite for nearly two decades. H RA SUSHI 701 S Eden St. 410-522-3200 www.rasushi.com Arizona-based chain of casual sushi bars popped up in Harbor East, where it attracts a hip crowd with rock ‘n’ roll atmosphere as well as a creative menu.

LATIN BABALU GRILL 32 Market Pl. (410) 234-9898 www.babalugrill.com In the Power Plant Live complex, a stone’s throw from Inner Harbor, rustic and modern designs with hints of pre-Castro and modern-day Cuba mirror the menu, which offers both a traditional and modern taste of the island. BLUE AGAVE 1032 Light St. (410) 576-3938 www.blueagaverestaurant.com Named for the plant harvested to make tequila, this upscale Latin restaurant in Federal Hill features more than 100 types of the Mexican liquor. Rich, hearty dishes incorporate staples like masa, beans, rice and huitlacoche. NACHO MAMA’S 2907 O’Donnell St. (410) 675-0898 Eclectic eatery’s dishes have a south-of-theborder flair if not true Mexican authenticity. But with dishes like portobello and spinach quesadillas, who cares? Margaritas served in hubcaps are made for sharing with friends. This Canton tavern is small but popular, making it a rather chummy spot. H TALARA 1615 S. President St. (410) 528-9883 www.talarabaltimore.com South Beach atmosphere and pulsing Latin music are what first catch diners’ attention at the slick Harbor East hot spot. But artfully presented small plates such as Peruvian-style sashimi or ahi tuna sliders are what they remember.

MEDITERRANEAN PAZO 1425 Aliceanna St. (410) 534-7296 www.pazorestaurant.com Straddling the line between Fells Point and Harbor East, this chic restaurant and lounge has cavernous digs and a see-and-be-seen atmosphere. Sample Mediterranean tapas, larger plates and pizzas along with a bottle or glass from the extensive wine list.

H Starred listings are featured GuestBook advertisers.

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s p e c i a l a d v ert i s i n g se c t i o n

rusty scupper baltimore has a beauty all its own

For lunch, for dinner or for drinks after work. Enjoy sweeping 360-degree views of the Inner Harbor from every table. Our fine chef and personable staff will thrill you with our exciting cuisine, wonderful selections of local seafood and fine wines. Voted “the Best View of Balitmore” by Baltimore Magazine, the Rusty Scupper also offers a fabulous Sunday Jazz Brunch, private function space, Happy Hour and live piano entertainment. Complimentary shuttle is available. 402 Key Hwy, Inner Harbor Marina, Baltimore

410.727.3678 www.rusty-scupper.com

Sotto sopra The restaurant is housed in a beautiful 19th century building just seven blocks north of Baltimore’s Harborplace on Charles Street, at the gateway to the city’s cultural center. Sotto Sopra specializes in true contemporary Italian cuisine. We’ve been voted Baltimore’s Best Italian Restaurant numerous years and listed in Zagat’s Top 1000 Italian Restaurants. There is something for everyone’s pocket from our happy hour $10 pastas, special pre-fixe menus and wine tastings. The perfect risotto, handmade pastas, roasted meats, local seafood and regional produce are here for your total enjoyment. We welcome you to dine with us for lunch, Monday through Saturdays and dinner every evening.   Learn more about Sotto Sopra and our special events at our website, Facebook and Twitter.

Night of the Cookers Night of the Cookers, new Baltimore restaurant features local favorites such as our homemade 6 oz crab cakes; southern favorites e.g. Sweet Georgia Brown salad, Meat and Three entrees, appetizers such as Angus Sliders and Fried Calamari; desserts such as homemade Banana Pudding. Mention WhereMagazine and get a free appetizer for 2 purchased entrees. Private parties welcome (up to 50ppl)   Hours of Operation WEDNESDAY 5PM-12AM, THURSDAY 5PM -12 AM, FRIDAY 5PM-1AM, SATURDAY 5PM -1AM, SUNDAY 11AM- 4PM. For reservations call 410.383.2095. 885 N. Howard St., Baltimore

410.383.2095 www.nightofthecookers.com

405 N. Charles St., Baltimore

410.625.0534 www.sottosoprainc.com Blog: www.sottosoprainc.blogspot.com

NIGHT OF THE COOKERS

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Dining

MIDDLE EASTERN LEBANESE TAVERNA 719 S. President St. (410) 244-5533 www.lebanesetaverna.com Authentic Middle Eastern food from the AbiNajem family that has proved so successful in the Washington, D.C., now available in Baltimore’s Inner Harbor East neighborhood.

SEAFOOD BO BROOKS RESTAURANT 2701 Boston St. (410) 558-0202 www.bobrooks.com Old-school crab house has classic seafood with a view of the Canton waterfront. Be sure to try the cream of crab soup. If sunny, pick crabs on the waterfront deck or in the floating cabana. Canton Dockside 3301 Boston St. (410) 276-8900 www.cantondockside.com Eat indoors or out on the deck at this seafood and steamed crabs restaurant. Or stop in the adjacent takeout operation and get crabs to go. MAMA’S ON THE HALF SHELL 2901 O’Donnell St. (410) 276-3160 The menu at this old-style bistro in Canton is reminiscent of seafood houses of the past. Chowder, authentic Maryland crab soup, crab cakes, steamed shrimp and oyster stew. Grab a stool at the raw bar on the first floor or settle in comfort in the dining room upstairs. H MO’S FISHERMAN’S WHARF 219 S. President St. (410) 837-8600 www.mosseafood.com One of Little Italy’s rare departures from exclusively Italian cuisine, this seafood restaurant with its own wholesale market touts freshness. But diners find a few Italian (as well as Cajun) dishes on the menu along with poultry and beef entrees. Obrycki’s 1727 E. Pratt St. (410) 732-6399 No-nonsense crab emporium in Fells Point features the favorite crab cake of former

Baltimore newscaster Oprah Winfrey. Grab a mallet and get to work. Open seasonally, mid-March through mid-November. H PHILLIPS 301 Light St. Light Street Pavilion, Harborplace (410) 685-6600 www.phillipsseafood.com Bustling spot known for its broad array of fresh seafood and prime waterfront location, Phillips is both casual and convenient. H RUSTY SCUPPER 402 Key Hwy. (410) 727-3678 www.selectrestaurants.com/rusty Enjoy fresh catch of the day and shellfish prepared in numerous ways while taking in a fabulous view of the Inner Harbor from the rooftop deck and promenade at this marina café. Come for dinner, cocktails, light fare or steamed crabs.

SOUTHERN B10 SOUTH 10 S. Calvert St. (410) 528-8994 Downtown eatery’s menu features truly down-home Southern dishes like chicken and waffles as well as more inventive ones like the “Down Home Eggroll,” which wraps up smoked shrimp and collard greens and tops it with a Hennessy BBQ sauce. CHARLESTON 1000 Lancaster St., Sylvan Building (410) 332-7373 www.charlestonrestaurant.com In the Harbor East long before the area became trendy, Charleston’s American cuisine with a Southern accent sports more than just a twist of French finesse. Take for instance the grilled pork tenderloin with roasted butternut squash and andouille sausage risotto with bourbon-pecan sauce. H Night of the Cookers 885 N. Howard St. (410) 383-2095 www.nightofthecookers.com Brooklyn-born fusion of continental bistro fare and contemporary cuisine from the American South now meet in Baltimore.

SPANISH LA TASCA SPANISH TAPAS BAR & RESTAURANT 201 E. Pratt St. (410) 209-2563 www.latasca.usa.com Small plates and pitchers of sangria amid colorful textiles and pottery bring a dose of sunny Spain to Harborplace. Grilled chorizo on red cabbage, several paellas and desserts like flan or meringue tarts all come in tapas portions. H TIO PEPE 10 E. Franklin St. (410) 539-4675 A Baltimore institution since 1968, this below-ground bistro in Mount Vernon is famous for its sangria. Entrees on its hearty menu mostly hail from Spain’s Catalan region. Reservations a must on weekends.

STEAKS Capital Grille 500 East Pratt (443)703-4064 Look for more than just steaks here. Look for everything from chops to seafood plus an award-winning selection of 400 wines. FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE AND WINE BAR 720 Aliceanna St. (410) 332-1666 www.flemingssteakhouse.com Harbor East steakhouse serves prime cuts of beef, pork, and poultry and grilled fish along with 100 wines by the glass, plus another 100 on the bottle-only list. RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE 711 Eastern Ave. 600 Water St. (410) 230-0033 With two Inner Harbor-area locations within blocks of each other, this upscale steak house, part of a national chain serving New Orleansstyle cuisine, makes its mark in Baltimore. SHULA’S STEAK HOUSE 101 W. Fayette St. (410) 385-6630 www.donshula.com NFL-size beef, seafood, chops plus great sides served amid Miami Dolphins memorabilia at this downtown Baltimore location of a national chain.

H Starred listings are featured GuestBook advertisers.

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attractions Let There be Light Designed by the U. S. Capitol’s architect Benjamin Henry Latrobe, the Baltimore Basilica, (officially known as Basilica of the National Shrine of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary) is a splendid example of neo-classical architecture. Completed in 1821, the light-filled cathedral in Mount Vernon makes a break from its ostentatious European counterparts. However, subsequent additions and renovations added ornamentation and darkened the cathedral. Even the skylights, suggested by Thomas Jefferson, were covered. But in 2006, after a two-year renovation, the Basilica reopened with a new look closer to the original vision plus a gift shop and tours that grant access to the crypt. Cathedral and Mulberry sts., (410) 727-3564, www.baltimorebasilica.org See First Look that opens on page 8 for National Aquarium, Maryland Science Center, BMA, Walters Art Museum, Fort McHenry and Camden Yards.

baltimore basilica

TOP OF THE WORLD OBSERVATION LEVEL 401 E. Pratt St.; (410) 837-VIEW www.viewbaltimore.org Baltimore’s World Trade Center, which stands 423 feet high, is the tallest pentagonal building in the world. Designed by I.M. Pei, the 27th floor offers a 360-degree view. MARYLAND ZOO IN BALTIMORE Druid Hill Park; (410) 366-LION www.marylandzoo.org Home to more than 2,000 animals representing life on all seven continents, this 180-acre facility offers exciting exhibits, including the top-rated children’s zoo, the Raptor Garden, the Polar Bear Watch underwater viewing area and the Chimpanzee Forest exhibit.

ART MUSEUMS american visionary art museum 800 Key Hwy.; (410) 244-1900 www.avam.org Like a glittering beacon to “self-taught” artists and other free thinkers, this mosaicencrusted art institution showcases the stubborn (sometimes bizarre) visions of society’s outsiders. This includes anything from a 16foot model of the Lusitania made of toothpicks to a family of sci fi-inspired robots. baltimore museum of art 10 Art Museum Dr.; (443) 573-1700 www.artbma.org Please see page 11 in First Look. CONTEMPORARY MUSEUM OF ART 100 W. Centre St.; (410) 783-5720 www.contemporary.org Once dubbed “museum without walls,” the

venue now has a permanent home in Mount Vernon, where you will find exhibits of artwork by artists from all around the world. MARYLAND ART PLACE 8 Market Place, Suite 100; (410) 962-8565 www.mdartplace.org Non-profit gallery features the work of local and regional artists, with a focus on contemporary art. The gallery includes an artists’ registry with 1,600-plus regional artists.

HISTORIC/ RELIGIOUS SITES LLOYD STREET SYNAGOGUE 15 Lloyd St.;(410) 732-6400 The Baltimore Hebrew Congregation began building Maryland’s first synagogue in 1845. Now this handsome building is part of the Jewish Museum of Maryland, which adjoins it and includes a gift shop and library.

H Starred listings are featured GuestBook advertisers. W H E R E G U E ST B O O K 4 5

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attractions

H ST. JUDE SHRINE 308 N Paca St; (410) 685-6026 Nationally known shrine dedicated to St. Jude, dubbed the patron saint of desperate cases, offers Perpetual Novena Services.

CLUBS H CAT’S EYE PUB 1730 Thames St.; (410) 276-9866 Classic old-salt watering hole in Fells Point features live music and 30 brews on tap. FLETCHER’S 701 S. Bond St.; (410) 558-1889 www.fletcherbar.com Get two-for-one entertainment at this Fells Point institution: upstairs a live music venue hosting national acts and downstairs a typical corner bar with a full menu. H HOWL AT THE MOON 22 Market Place; (410) 783-5111 www.howlatthemoon.com Power Plant Live! institution features a rock ‘n’ roll piano bar, happy hours and themed nights. Call to find out what’s on. BLTGB_090900_Howl at the Moon.in1 1

OTTOBAR 2549 N. Howard St.; (410) 662-0069 www.theottobar.com In Charles Village, nightly national and local live music ranges from hard-core punk and art rock to acoustic and rockabilly.

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THE OWL BAR 1 E.Chase St.; (410) 347-0888 Settle in cozy quarters with friendly staff for a yard of beer at this Baltimore landmark inside the Belvedere Hotel in Mount Vernon. RAMS HEAD LIVE! 20 Market Place; (410) 244-1131 www.ramsheadlive.com Power Plant Live! venue near the Inner Harbor features top touring acts plus popular locals as well as a bar and restaurant.

TOURS & TRANSPORTATION RIDE THE DUCKS Light St. and Conway St. (410) 727-DUCK (3825); baltimoreducks.com. These amphibious sightseeing vehicles provide a land tour throughout Baltimore’s historic and cultural neighborhoods before plunging into the water for a floating tour of the Inner Harbor. H Starred listings are featured GuestBook advertisers.

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WATER TAXI (410) 563-3901; www.thewatertaxi.com This form of transit is as much about the journey as the destination. The fleet of canopied craft crisscrosses the harbor, making stops in Canton, Fells Point, Inner Harbor, Federal Hill and Fort McHenry.

MUSEUMS GEPPI’S ENTERTAINMENT MUSEUM 216 Emory St.; (410) 427-9438 www.geppismuseum.com Follow the history of pop culture through the chronologically arranged displays of collectibles, toys and music near Camden Yards. The collection reveals the impact of comic books, TV and movies. REGINALD F. LEWIS MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY & CULTURE 830 E. Pratt St.; (443) 263-1800 www.africanamericanculture.org Dedicated to sharing African-Americans’ journeys toward freedom and self-determination and the largest of its kind on the East Coast, the 82,000-square-foot museum includes three galleries, a two-level theater, an oral history recording studio, classrooms and a café. SPORTS LEGENDS AT CAMDEN YARDS 216 Emory Street; (410) 727-1539 www.sportslegendsatcamdenyards.com Look into the history of Baltimore’s Orioles, Ravens, Colts and Blast, as well as the Negro League’s Baltimore Black Sox, collegiate sports and alternative Baltimore sports such as jousting and duckpin bowling. With more than 10,000 artifacts, this comprehensive museum near Camden Yards pays tribute to a rich sports heritage. U.S.S. CONSTELLATION Pier 1, 301 E. Pratt St. (410) 530-1797 www.constellation.org This great all-sail warship is the last Civil War-era vessel that was built by the U.S. Navy in 1854. The 1,400-ton, 179-foot ship returned to Inner Harbor in 1999 after years of restoration. Options: tours of three other ships in Inner Harbor—Taney, a Coast Guard Cutter that saw action at Pearl Harbor; Torsk, a submarine from World War II; and Chesapeake, a lightship that guided mariners through the Chesapeake Bay.

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Historically Significant

6/25/08 6:23:10 AM

attenD maSS at St. JuDe SHrine

to Baltimore... our Nation and… people of faith!

Our Nation’s First Catholic Seminary Founded in 1791 Home of the First U.S. born Saint St. Elizabeth Ann Seton -1808

Complete your visit with a visit to St. Jude Shrine, conveniently located at Paca and Saratoga streets in Downtown Baltimore, a few blocks from Harbor Place. Daily Masses:

St. Mary’s Spiritual Center & Historic Site 600 N. Paca Street Baltimore, MD 21201

mon-Fri: 7 am, noon Saturday: 7:45, noon Vigil mass: Saturday, 4:30

Sunday Masses

8 am, 9 am, 11:30 am

Tour hours: Monday to Friday, 12:00-3:30 p.m. and Saturday to Sunday, 1:00-3:00 p.m. The site is owned and operated by the Society of St. Sulpice, Province of the U.S.

www.stmarysspiritualcenter.org For further information about the site phone 410-728-6464

Perpetual Novena Services Every Wednesday: 7:45 am, noon 5:45 pm & 7:45 pm

Sunday Perpetual Novena Services after the 9 am & 11:30 am masses

Handicapped Accessible Gift Shop on Premises

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PARTING SHOT

Harbor Lights MARYLAND OFFICE OF TOURISM

NIGHT FALLS OVER THE PATAPSCO

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Advertiser index Attractions Maryland Science Center.................................................4 National Aquarium in Baltimore.................................... 5

Churches & Religious Sites Baltimore Basilica............................................................47 Shrine of St. Jude............................................................47 Saint Mary’s Spiritual Center and Historic Site............47

Dining alizée..................................................................................... 3 Chiapparelli’s......................................................................6 Della Notta........................................................................35 Edo Sushi........................................................................... 41 Frank & Nic’s........................................................................1 Mo’s Fisherman’s Wharf................................ Back Cover Mother’s Grille..................................................................36 Night of the Cookers......................................................43 Phillips Seafood...............................................................39 RA Sushi............................................................................ 40 Ropewalk Tavern..............................................................37 Rusty Scupper..................................................................43 Sotto Sopra.......................................................................43 Talara....................................................Inside Front Cover Tio Pepe............................................................................. 41

PHOTO BY LAUREEN MILES

Nightlife Cat’s Eye Pub................................................................... 46 Greene Turtle......................................................................6 Howl at the Moon........................................................... 46 Mother’s Grille..................................................................36 Ropewalk Tavern..............................................................37 Stalking Horse..................................................................37

Spa Toscana Medispa............................................................. 46

Transportation Maryland Transit Administration....................................4

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Jumbo Lump Crab Cake

Mo’s Famous Stuffed Lobster Tail Imperial

• 25 carieties of Fresh Fish

• King Crab Legs

• New York Strip

• Shrimp, Scallops

• Maryland Crab Cakes

• Filet Mignon

• Maryland Blue Crab all year

• Oysters, Clams, Mussels

• Chicken

• Maryland Soft Crab

• Pasta, Fettuccine

• Pasta and Seafood Salad

• Lobster

• Lasagna, Tortellini

• Homemade Soups & Desserts

Inner Harbor Locations: Mo’s Crab & Pasta Factory (410) 837-1600

Mo’s Fish Market & Carryout (410) 837-5511 Next to Mo’s Fisherman’s Wharf

Mo’s Fisherman’s Wharf (410) 837-8600

“2008 Best of Baltimore”—AOL Citysbest “Best crab cake in Baltimore”—Rachael Ray “A good value and... a good time”—Anthony Bourdain “Best Bang for the Buck—USA Today

FREE DELIVERY! www.mosseafood.com

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