Jewellery Focus August 2011

Jewellery X

August 2011 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 ISSN 2046-7265

FOCUS

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Masculine adornment: a selection of jewellery collections to tempt your male customers XX The many benefits of incorporating more than one precious metal in jewellery designs XX Also inside: IJL organisers and exhibitors reveal highlights of the forthcoming event

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CONTENTS

6

Jewellery August 2011

FOCUS

FEATURES Visual juxtapositions

24

Combining different metals can add a new dimension to jewellery design, as well as providing a wider choice for customers, as Rebecca Hoh discovers

28 Image: Simon Powell

A man’s world A selection of the latest men’s jewellery collections to inspire those looking to enter or to grow their share of the masculine market

IJL 2011

36

Organisers and exhibitors highlight some of the delights that await visitors to the International Jewellery London (IJL) event in September

Success stories

56

24

54

Louise Hoffman catches up with Emma Boat, diamond buyer for Aurum Holdings, to hear a little about the group’s business strategies

Focus on pearls

56

Jon Chapple examines some of the pearl jewellery collections that are ready to tempt your customers this autumn/winter season

Fantastic plastic

68

36

68

Chris Davies, managing director of HSBC Merchant Services, explains how to increase your profits through additional customer spend

28

Regulars 16

Editor’s letter Roundup

The latest news from the industry

Janet Fitch

As this extra-creative summer season continues, Janet identifies a few of the designs that have caught her eye over the past month

Keith Fisher

With so many flamboyant, complication-driven designs flooding the men’s watch market, Keith identifies a company that is bucking the trend

8 10

How do they do that?

22

16

Taking stock Ones to watch

Trends in timepieces

20

22

Michael Hoare

32

Designer of the month

50

Following criticism of the recent Channel 4 documentary about the gold industry, Michael comments upon the complexities of maintaining a good reputation Louise Hoffman discovers the dramatic, culture-inspired design world that is inhabited by awardwinning jeweller Tomasz Donocik

60

This month Anu Manchanda of AnchorCert explains how some of the most popular pearl treatments are carried out and how they can be identified New offerings from the industry

Leonard Zell

Why do salespeople avoid turning over a sale when they are struggling? And how can you rectify the situation?

Leonard has the answers

Industry data Events Voice on the highstreet John Cussell of John Cussell, Grantham

62 64

70 72 81

50

8

EDITOR’S LETTER

Editor’s letter T his year’s International Jewellery London (IJL) event will be a key indicator of the current state and predicted future of the jewellery sector, in terms of footfall, order placing and general sentiment. Exhibitor numbers are healthy, putting the industry on the front foot as we embark on this annual four-day extravaganza once again, but with dented consumer confidence, flattening retail sales and falling hallmarking figures, the question of when the recovery will really begin is growing increasingly urgent.

One of the most difficult aspects of this situation is remaining positive in the face of adversity. Realism is of course necessary, but sacrificing yourself to the doomsayers will only serve in compounding the problem; negative energy is, unfortunately, potent stuff, and can easily be passed on to customers and colleagues through words and body language. Trade shows are prime examples of an environment in which both positivity and negativity can be fostered, and I hope we can all work together to cultivate a good trading environment at Earls Court this September.

As is customary for the August issue of Jewellery Focus, contained in the following pages is a preview of the upcoming IJL event. I caught up with event manager Syreeta Tranfield to find out about the improvements that have been made for 2011, and the highlights that visitors can expect over the four days (page 36); and some 38 exhibitor companies provide appetite-whetting descriptions of the products and services that will be on show (starting on page 38). So why not begin planning your visit to ensure you gain as much knowledge, enjoyment and stock inspiration as possible? After all, it’s not only money that needs to be invested wisely; time is also valuable.

Jewellery FOCUS

Editor Louise Hoffman

louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Editorial Assistant Jon Chapple jon@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Production Assistant Lewis Bowes copy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Group Advertisement Manager Kelly Smith kelly@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Sales Executive Katie Thurgood

katie@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Accounts Maureen Scrivener

accounts@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Customer Services 01206 767 797

customers@mulberrypublications.co.uk

Contributing writers: Anu Manchanda • Chris Davies Janet Fitch • Keith Fisher Leonard Zell • Michael Hoare Rebecca Hoh Design Arthouse Publishing Solutions Ltd 01394 410 490 contact@arthousepublishing.co.uk

In support of:

I hope you enjoy the magazine and the month ahead.

Jewellery Focus

ISSN 2046-7265 is published monthly by:

This month’s cover features

Mulberry Publications Ltd, Wellington House, Butt Road, Colchester CO3 3DA

GOLDMARK

Tel: 01206 767 797 Fax: 01206 767 532

Unison wedding rings are proving a popular choice for today’s price conscious retailer, says Goldmark.

The company specialises in bespoke manufactured wedding rings and diamond jewellery, and has a complete range of products and services to complement its brands. For more information and to order an information pack, Goldmark invites you to visit its website and register online.

Information: 01268 833 082 or www.goldmarkuk.com

www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk

The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement that they express in this publication.

The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the publishers. Articles are considered for publication on the basis that they are the author’s original work. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the permission of the publishers.

Sapphires and Diamonds

Exquisite Jewellery by

Sheldon Bloomf ield 0113 243 0100 www.sheldonbloomf ield.com heidi @ sheldonbloomf ield.co.uk

10

ROUNDUP

And briefly WFDB deplores breakdown of Kinshasa KP talks Avi Paz, the president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), has condemned the breakdown of the latest round of Kimberley Process (KP) talks in the capital of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Kinshasa. He said that the “uncompromising positions taken by some KP members” and the ensuing lack of agreement on the issue of rough diamond exports from Zimbabwe’s disputed Marange diamond fields would be detrimental, in particular, to the downstream end of the diamond supply pipeline, and compared KP members to a quarrelling household.

Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn success Springboard Events, the organiser of the Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn retail show, has reported a 20 per cent jump in exhibitor numbers compared to bookings for last year’s event. The show, which will be held at Glasgow’s SECC on the 18 and 19 September, has a wide range of jewellery exhibitors and gives retailers in Scotland an opportunity to source final stock before Christmas.

Europe-wide patent draws closer A single European patent is looking increasingly likely after ministers reached a number of important agreements – including on the languages regime and some technical details of the planned patent itself – at the Competitiveness Council in Luxembourg during the last week of June. Intellectual property minister Baroness Wilcox said she believes the creation of a single European patent and patent court is “crucial for UK industry.”

BCU offering usual summer short courses Birmingham City University’s (BCU) School of Jewellery has announced it will once again be running its celebrated jewellery-related short courses throughout this summer. The school, located in the heart of the city’s historic Jewellery Quarter, has been running the courses – which cover a variety of subjects, from polishing to CAD design and gemmology – for 20 years, with a list of famous alumni that includes Jessica Turrell and Dagmarr Korecki.

Courses vary in length from one to five days, and began at the end of June. For more information, visit www.bcu.ac.uk

Swiss watch exports up 30 per cent in May The Swiss watch industry made great strides in May, with a second consecutive month of growth in excess of 30 per cent, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry has said. Watch exports during May attained a value of SFr1.6 billion (£1.18 billion), in a year-on-year increase of 31.6 per cent. Budget watches with a wholesale price of less than SFr200 (£147) and higher-end models costing more than SFr500 (£368) registered the highest increases, with the former up by nearly 40 per cent in both value and volume.

Industry criticises one-sided dirty gold Channel 4 investigation A Channel 4 investigation into dirty gold has been greeted with disappointment from representatives of the UK jewellery industry.

The Real Price of Gold, an episode of the long-running Dispatches series broadcast on the 27 June, showed shop assistants from a number of prominent high street stores providing incorrect information regarding the source of the gold in their jewellery, but was condemned by the National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) and British Jewellers’ Association (BJA), who were not called upon to make comment despite their collective status as the largest representative of the trade in the UK. A statement from the two organisations conceded that although the programme was useful for consumers and raised some “interesting and worthwhile” points about some of the issues the jewellery industry currently faces, it did not address in full the “various initiatives that are being undertaken by the gold industry and jewellers”; instead presenting a simplistic view of an industry that doesn’t care about the provenance of its materials.

The programme came under particular fire for presenting recycled gold as an ethical or morally-superior alternative to newly-mined gold; counter to the NAG and BJA’s position that such newly-mined gold is “critically important to countries such as Ghana, Mali and Peru, which benefit from the investment and tax revenues generated,” and where artisanal miners’ lives “depend on the sale of the gold they mine.” Criticism was also levelled at the programme’s host – ethical travel entrepreneur Deirdre Bounds – for an alleged lack of knowledge about the industry.

“The programme… glossed over all the work of the initiatives that are well underway in addressing the issues we are acutely aware of,” said the joint NAG-BJA Ethics Committee response to the programme. “Achieving a fully transparent system takes international effort, and both the NAG and the BJA remain fully committed to driving this forward for the British jewellery industry.”

For further comment on this subject, turn to page 32.

New hallmark kicks off the 2012 Diamond Jubilee celebrations The British jewellery and precious metals industries celebrated in style on the 6 July at a glittering event to launch the commemorative hallmark for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012.

Sector representatives including retailers, designers and manufacturers gathered in Goldsmiths’ Hall at an event jointly hosted by the Goldsmiths’ Company and the four UK assay offices and attended by Her Royal Highness Princess Michael of Kent (pictured), who witnessed the first jubilee marks being formally struck.

The creation of a celebratory Diamond Jubilee hallmark follows a tradition established in the 20th century, when commemorative hallmarks recognised the Silver Jubilee of George V and Mary in 1935, and the coronation of Elizabeth II in 1953 and her Silver and Golden Jubilees in 1977 and 2002, respectively.

The Diamond Jubilee mark is additional to the three compulsory hallmarks, the town mark, fineness mark and sponsor’s mark, and will add provenance to items marked between now and the 1 October 2012. The Birmingham Assay Office said jewellery and silverware items bearing the commemorative hallmark are expected to be in high demand over the next 18 months as the Diamond Jubilee celebrations and the London Olympics “make 2012 a year to remember.”

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Retail sales volume flat in June as customers feel the pinch, says CBI

Celebrity endorsement

The volume of high street sales was flat in June compared to a year earlier, disappointing retailers’ expectations of growth, according to the Confederation of British Industry (CBI).

The CBI’s latest Distributive Trades Survey revealed that 33 per cent of retailers saw sales volumes increase on a year ago, compared to 34 per cent reporting a fall, meaning that the resulting rounded balance of -2 per cent is the first time in a year that sales have not grown.

Looking ahead, retailers expect sales to likewise remain flat during July.

Judith McKenna, chair of the CBI Distributive Trades Panel and ASDA chief financial officer, explained: “After a year of growth, high street sales volumes fizzled out in June.

Consumers are really feeling the pinch, as disposable incomes continue to be squeezed by rising prices and weak earnings growth.

“The cost of living is increasing, and petrol prices have risen particularly sharply. Shoppers are budgeting hard and cutting back on their discretionary spending… and household budgets are likely to remain tight over the coming months, with inflation edging higher as increases in domestic gas and electricity prices take effect.”

Rox celebrates awards triumph Jewellery retailer Rox has been named Retailer of the Year at the sixth Scottish Fashion Awards, becoming the first jeweller to ever take home the prize.

Rox beat off competition from clothing brands Spoiled Brat and Mackintosh and womenswear designer Bunmi Koko to scoop the award at a celebrity-studded ceremony at the Glasgow Science Centre on the 15 June. High-profile guests in attendance included Lulu, Dame Shirley Bassey and the Prime Minister’s wife, Samantha Cameron, in her role as a British Fashion Council ambassador.

The organiser of the awards attributed Rox’s win to its “quality product, elegance, premium designer brands, unrivalled customer service, luxurious shopping environment and uncompromising commitment to closely follow trends.”

Rox’s Kyron Keogh (pictured with co-owner Grant Mitchell) commented: “To win Retailer of the Year is truly incredible and we are absolutely thrilled. It’s an honour to be recognised at an event of this stature and it is fantastic exposure for our brand on a global scale.

“This is a huge achievement for our team and comes as a very welcome surprise on a night where we were delighted to even be nominated.”

CMJ group reports 70 per cent sales growth over the past year The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) reported another record-breaking year of sales at its annual general meeting and business conference, held on the 12 and 13 June. Sales through the buying group were up 70 per cent on the previous year, rising from £45.27 million to £76.88 million.

This latest period of strong growth comes on the back of a successful three years’ trading for the CMJ, which has seen sales rocket 161 per cent from £28 million in 2009.

Announcing the figures, CMJ finance director Dominic Wakefield said: “What is especially encouraging is that while our biggest members have enjoyed growth, it is the middle tier of our members that we have seen putting more sales through the group this year.”

The CMJ has grown its business by attracting more high-end and mini-multiple retailers, including new members TJ Davies of Aberystwyth and the Fish Brothers Group of London and the south east, along with a raft of new suppliers. The newest supplier to join is fashion watch brand Toywatch.

Speakers at the two-day event included Echochamber co-founder Howard Saunders; diamontaire Jean Paul Tolkowsky; Metamorphosis visual merchandising consultant Eve Reid; Adorn Insight trend forecaster Juliet Hutton-Squire; Gemma Cartwright from Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold; and CMJ member Steff Suter, from Steffans in Northampton.

David Coulthard, TW Steel Dutch watchmaker TW Steel has announced its collaboration with former Formula One racing driver David Coulthard on a limited edition timepiece designed to celebrate the Scot’s sporting career. Coulthard holds 13 Grand Prix victories, having competed for the Williams, McLaren and Red Bull Racing teams from 1994 to 2008.

Available in 44 millimetre and 48 millimetre editions, the watch features a sleek grey dial embossed with Coulthard’s name and a grey Italian leather strap. TW Steel says the watch “offers a bold, sophisticated look that perfectly captures the luxurious associations that come from [Coulthard’s] involvement in one of the world’s most glamorous and appealing sports – motor racing.”

ROUNDUP

Fei Liu leads charge at 2011 Lonmin Design Innovation Awards Acclaimed jewellery designer Fei Liu has triumphed for a second time in this year’s Lonmin Design Innovation Awards, winning in the ‘Established Designers’ grouping for those that have been in the industry for more than five years. Liu took home his first Lonmin gong in 2009, with his Aeon earrings (pictured) and Allure ring.

Zoë Harding and Anna Loucah also prevailed in the Established Designers category, while Leyla Abdollahi, Alexander Davis, Anthony Roussel, Laura Strand and Sarah Ho were recognised as the best ‘Emerging Designers’.

Liu said it was “a great honour” to win the award for a second time, and added: “I feel it is important that we continuously push the boundaries of the materials available to us.”

The platinum-based competition is now in its ninth year, and is sponsored by platinum mining company Lonmin Plc. The designers will unveil their winning pieces in September, when they will be displayed on the Johnson Matthey stand and worn by models at an awards party at the International Jewellery London show.

A tribute to jeweller Tony Rudell Tony Rudell, owner of renowned Wolverhampton jewellers Rudells, has died suddenly after suffering a severe stroke at his home on the morning of the 19 May. Mr Rudell, who led the Darlington Street shop for decades, was buried at the Birmingham Jewish Cemetery on the 22 May in a ceremony attended by hundreds.

Born in 1946 to Justin and Etta Rudell, ‘Roundy’ – as he was known to friends – was involved in the family business from the age of 20. As well as developing Rudells, he was also keenly involved in charity work, tirelessly raising money and awareness for a number of causes including Cure Leukaemia and the Variety Club.

Jon Weston, managing director of Rudells, said his friend would leave a lasting memory with those who knew him, as a man with “indomitable spirit, unlimited kindness and an inspirational love of life.”

He added: “To say that he will be greatly missed does not adequately cover the huge loss that so many of us will feel. I have lost a very, very close friend. Roundy has been like a second father to me, but I will continue his wishes of ‘the show must go on’ and practise the great things he has taught me over the last 22 years.”

William and Catherine presented with Canadian diamond jewellery

Image: Katrina Bowman

12

Their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge have been presented with a pair of cufflinks and a brooch made from locally-mined diamonds during the latest stage of their royal tour of Canada.

The Duke and Duchess (pictured clad in traditional attire at the Calgary Stampede) were gifted the jewellery – which reportedly took 250 hours to make from diamonds mined in the Diavik Diamond Mine in the Northwest Territories – by territory premier Floyd Roland in the city of Yellowknife on the 5 July. Both pieces were created by mining giant Harry Winston in a polar bear design inspired by the emblem of the 500,000-square-mile territory.

Robert Gannicott, the chairman and CEO of Harry Winston, said the gifts were meant to represent the culture of the Northwest Territories with a subtle, understated design. “What we have attempted to do here is to stay away from using large, prominent diamonds,” he explained, “and instead use something that… reflects the sort of design you see in the beadwork and the craftsmanship of the Northwest Territories.”

Increased footfall on the back of Houlden Group tour Houlden Group members are reaping the benefits of the decision to tour the Designs of Excellence Collection, with the organisation reporting “huge amounts of publicity” and increased footfall in member stores.

The Designs of Excellence Collection was formed from outstanding pieces of jewellery chosen by the jewellery- and watch-buying organisation from the designers’ collections at the Spring Fair Jewellery Show, and is touring Houlden members’ stores throughout the year.

Baker Brothers, a jeweller based in Bedford, was the first member to host the Collection, and organised a number of in-store events with the designers involved in attendance.

Helen Haddow, who is managing the initiative, commented: “The response from the membership has been overwhelming, with almost no available slots left for 2011. The Collection has been a great way for our members to create a buzz and attract footfall to their stores, and we’re delighted that they are having so much success with it.”

Lizzie McAuley from Baker Brothers added: “As the first jeweller in the country to showcase the Collection, we were thrilled with how well it went, with many customers and journalists coming into the store and having a lot of fun looking at and trying on the pieces. It was an honour to have Babette Wasserman, Sarah Ho (pictured), Alexander Davis and Rachel Galley all attend the events we arranged, and it was a great opportunity to hear about their designs and the inspirations behind them.”

14

ROUNDUP

And briefly Aurum Holdings certified by the RJC The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that prestige watch retailer Aurum Holdings, one of the largest luxury jewellers in the UK, has achieved certification, meeting the “ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards established by the RJC’s member certification system.” Aurum Holdings becomes the sixth jewellery retailer to be certified by the council. RJC CEO Michael Rae described the partnership as a “noteworthy advance in RJC UK member certification.”

US giants to sell to UK Iconic American department stores Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s are hoping to make a dent on the UK jewellery market with new plans to sell their jewellery directly to British consumers online. The move follows a tie-up of parent company Macy’s Inc with ecommerce firm FiftyOne, which is providing a digital platform that will allow consumers in the UK to shop in pounds and take advantage of “cost-effective international shipping rates.”

SaferGems foils alleged jewellery thieves Industry crime prevention initiative SaferGems has, through the sharing of valuable information between jewellery employees and police forces across the country, assisted in the arrest of two men believed responsible for a number of recent thefts across the West Country. The NAG’s Michael Hoare, a co-founder of SaferGems, commented: “As a result of good policing, the sharing of information and the co-operation of jewellers, they will hopefully receive a sentence commensurate with their crimes.”

New studio space for Sophie Harley Jewellery designer Sophie Harley will launch her new studio in west London in September. Following extensive building work in the Westbourne Studios in Notting Hill, Harley’s refurbished studio (number 122) will encompass an integrated workshop and client areas for private commissions and appointments. The studio will reportedly be “refreshingly light and modern,” mixing vintage mirrors and antique style furnishings that reflect the Sophie Harley brand.

Israel diamond industry recovery The Israeli diamond industry has continued its remarkable recovery in the first half of 2011, according to figures published by the Israel Ministry of Industry, Trade and Labor’s diamond controller Shmuel Mordechai.

Net export of polished diamonds in the first half of 2011 totalled $4.3 billion (£2.69 billion), compared to $3 billion in the same period last year. Since January, Israel’s net polished diamond exports have increased 33.9 per cent.

Net rough diamond exports stood at $2.25 billion (£1.4 billion), compared to $1.6 billion in the first half of 2010 – a rise of 39.8 per cent.

Retail Trust launches ReWork programme to help the unemployed Industry charity Retail Trust has announced the creation of a new free scheme designed to assist unemployed retail workers in dealing with redundancy and with finding new work. The charity has reported seeing a worrying 40 per cent year-on-year increase in calls to its free redundancy helpline (0808 801 0808) during June.

The ReWork programme, which Retail Trust says is worth over £1,000, includes a free downloadable ‘resolving redundancy’ guide and monthly workshops in London, free personal career coaching and links to retailers with current vacancies.

“These are very difficult times for people in retail,” commented Nigel J L Rothband, chief executive officer of Retail Trust, “and – as our tagline states – Retail Trust is here to look after everyone in retail, so that’s exactly what we’ll do. I would urge anyone worried about redundancy, debt, stress or anything else at all to get in touch with our team, who are here to support them when they need us the most.”

So Jewellery appoints new sales agent for south east England So Jewellery has announced the appointment of its first sales agent, Faye Miller, to look after existing and prospective customers in the south east of England. Faye has previously worked with Unique Jewellery, Elran and Kokkino, and joins So from Fable Trading, where she served as a visual merchandiser on the Trollbeads brand.

“We are delighted that Faye is joining us,” stated Emma Finney, So Jewellery’s marketing director. “We have seen first-hand the excellent service and support Faye offers us in our own shop and we are confident that our stockists will benefit significantly from her contribution.”

A graduate in Design Crafts, Faye has a strong combination of commercial and designer-maker experience, having spent some nine years in a customer services role. She added: “So Jewellery is fast becoming a sought-after brand, and I was very impressed by both the quality of the jewellery and the strong brand identity, which is backed up by strong POS and packaging. I am thrilled to have been offered this opportunity and look forward to working with our stockists to take the brand to the next level.”

Goldsmiths’ Company hands out awards at New Designers Part one of this year’s New Designers graduate design fair concluded on the 2 July, and two days previous saw 13 “leaders of the class of 2011” – two of them from a jewellery or metalsmithing background – presented with New Designers Awards at a ceremony at Islington’s Business Design Centre.

The jewellery-related awards were backed by the Goldsmiths’ Company, whose prime warden, Hector Miller, presented gongs to Filipa Oliveira (pictured), winner of the Goldsmiths’ Company Jewellery Award, and Bryony Jackson, who triumphed in the Goldsmiths’ Award for Silversmithing.

Judging the awards were Lorna Watson, creative director of Astley Clarke; jewellery industry professional and silversmith Mary Ann Simmons; and Peter Taylor, director of technology and training at the Goldsmiths’ Company. Of Filipa’s work, they said: “[It] mixes contemporary form with the tradition of filigree, bringing it into a refreshingly modern context,” while Bryony’s winning candlesticks showed “a nice fluidity of movement, and are designed to create a strong presence on the table.”

Both winning designers won a cheque for £1,000 and precious metal to the value of £500. They have also been given places on the Goldsmiths’ Company’s annual graduate business training course, ‘Getting Started’.

Isobel Dennis, director of the show – which is now in its 26th year – praised the high standard of work, adding that the judges commented on how strong contemporary applied arts was this year.

“There was a sense that the overall standard of presentation was more professional and polished,” she said.

YEARS

OF GECKO

ELEMENTS gold 2012 collection

Get a taste of Elements Gold’s latest delectable range at Gecko’s Stand F31 in IJL or contact our sales team now to arrange for a visit from a dedicated area sales representative.

For more information telephone 01376 532 000 or email sales@geckojewellery.com

T: 01376 532 000 F: 01376 532 001 E: sales@geckojewellery.com

TRENDS

16

Little treasures Janet Fitch discusses a few of the jewellery designs that have captured her imagination over the past month, all of which draw their inspiration from culture and history

I

have always wondered if it would be better to take August off and to holiday, like the French and Italians; especially when I’ve been trying to keep children amused and out of trouble during the school holidays as well as keeping up with a demanding job.

Now, however, August starts with Pure London, the midto higher-end fashion trade show, with an ever growing accessories area that this season will have over 70 fashion jewellery brands, including launch collections from Zandra Rhodes, and the new LoveRocks by Michael Waterman, the original founder of Mikey Jewellery. (www.purelondon.com is at London Olympia and Earls Court 2 from 7 to 9 August) Meanwhile, I’ve picked a handful of the most interesting collections I’ve just seen – all technically brilliant and unusual. As I mentioned last month, I’ve seen a lot of new work from graduates, and the Central Saint Martins’ show was a real treasure trove, which demonstrated the talents of the soon-to-be alumni preparing to embark on their careers.

Karen Rothwell is one – she has brought her technical silversmithing skills to a new dimension with her Tutaonana collection, exploring the 17th century Japanese technique for forging metals: mokume-gane, which means wood-grain metal. Patterns are created by layering precious metals into billets, then firing them in a kiln until the metals are fused, giving varying subtle wood-cut effects. (www.karenrothwell.com) Sardinia is now a popular holiday destination, but I have only just learned about the island’s tradition of fine filigree jewellery. Last year, Andrea Usai – a Sardinian working in the luxury travel business – and his architect wife Ansula, realised that the traditional craft of filigree was under threat from cheap imports and decided to set up an ethical business – Sardinian Treasure – preserving the local skills, and producing jewellery that uniquely uses threads as fine as 0.25 millimetres in diameter, used only for decoration, and also 0.5 millimetre diameter threads, used for the structural support of the jewellery. The results are woven, textured pieces of silver or 18 carat gold jewellery, made by an ancient method but in a modern and sophisticated style. (www.sardiniantreasure.com)

Karen Rothwell

Sardinian Treasure

TRENDS

Thomas Sabo

Thomas Sabo is a fashion jewellery brand that is especially newsworthy this season. Its new collections launch this month, with the cutting edge seasonal collection based on ‘pop goes Asia’ – all things Chinese, from pandas and dolls to Buddhist blessing symbols, fans and lanterns. There’s a delicate Feather collection, and the bold Rebel at Heart range for men, with dragon and sword pendants. The Classic range in purple has a covetable matching purple watch, and all the jewellery is in sterling silver with zirconia, enamel, obsidian or onyx. (www.thomassabo.com) I had a memorable outing to see the breathtakingly beautiful and exquisitely crafted new high jewellery collection, Bals de Legende, by Van Cleef and Arpels, launched in London in the grand setting of Lancaster House (where scenes from The King’s Speech were filmed). The collection is

Van Cleef and Arpels

inspired by five legendary balls of the 20th century: Le Bal du Palais d’Hiver in Saint Petersbourg in 1903; Le Bal du Siecle in Venice in 1951; Le Bal Black and White in New York in 1966; Le Bal Oriental in Paris in 1969; and Le Bal Proust in Ferrieres in 1971. Since 1941, ballerina clips have featured in Van Cleef and Arpels’ artistic heritage, and each ball has its own dancer, with a decorative enamel container.

The stones used are rare, including a 20.12 carat Colombian emerald, a natural pearl weighing 17.92 carats and a 25.15 carat sapphire from Sri Lanka. A delicate butterfly brooch transforms into a dancer; a ring for Le Bal Oriental has, on closer inspection, a tiny elephant on the side; and the jewels for Le Bal Black and White include a necklace of pearls and diamonds evoking the Chrysler Building. (balsdelegende.vancleef-arpels.com)

17

20

Watch this space

There are people out there who refuse point blank to succumb to the new giant watch trend, with more circles on the face than the Olympic emblem

Simple beauty With so many flamboyant, complicationdriven designs flooding the men’s watch market, Keith Fisher identifies a company that is bucking the trend

Watch this space

I

[These watches] just represent simple elegance, which in my humble opinion has long been neglected

t is quite remarkable, the revolution in the world of men’s watches. Where once upon a time a simple chronometer would suffice, these days watches frequently resemble the cockpit of a jumbo jet with their dizzying array of complications. There are so many dials you don’t know which one to look at first! Well, I don’t, but that might have something to do with my age, and eyesight.

Of course it is not just about satisfying the market for the testosterone-filled young men of our society. Oh no – most men of all ages seek watches up to 50 millimetres in diameter and boasting all the latest complications just to get one over on their mates, work colleagues and anyone else who notices.

Try this one simple test: after years of wearing a Big Ben on your wrist, get out from your collection one of those tiny watches we all used to wear and see the difference. It is almost embarrassing to think that we wore these as a matter of normality.

What particularly irks me is that I have a collection of watches which I can no longer wear because of their diminutive size! And they are worth a bob or two; such is the price of being trendy.

But there are people out there who refuse point blank to succumb to the new giant watch trend, with more circles on the face than the Olympic emblem. And I am grateful to Andrew Johnson for pointing this out to me.

Andrew is a watch dealer and has a fabulous little shop called Harbour Times in Dorset. He told me: “I have just introduced to my market a relatively new range of watches called Danish Design. They are totally different from the huge watches which dominate. They are simple, elegant and sophisticated. One of my customers fell in love with them, bought one instantly and came back for another.”

Sufficiently intrigued I had to know more.

Founded as recently as 1988, the company’s motto rings through loud and clear: “The intention is to refine Danish Design in these watches, and to create simple but sculptural timekeepers,” says the spiel. “Danish Design watches are famous for their simple, elegant and non-obstructive design for a very affordable price.

“All cases are made of stainless steel, titanium or tungsten and topped with either mineral crystal or anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass. The straps are either made from genuine leather or rubber and the bracelets are made from stainless steel, titanium or tungsten.”

Three young Danish designers – Martin Larsen, Anna Gotha and Lars Pedersen – have now been joined by a fourth – Tirtsah – to create a truly exciting new watch series.

There is nothing flashy about them – they just represent simple elegance, which in my humble opinion has long been neglected.

No – forgotten. They are both innovative and uncomplicated, which is a breath of fresh air these days.

But the devil in me wanted to know if Danish Design had also created in its portfolio the must-have ‘complication’ watches; and if they had, how would they maintain their fundamental elegant appearance? And then I found them. I was so pleasantly surprised: big; square or round; titanium, silver and gold effect; 5atm; black ion plated; chronograph.

They looked magnificent.

I always get excited when a new kid on the block hits the ground running, because it makes a change from the same old names we trot out time and again. And I mean no disrespect to those watch companies.

The last word goes to Andy: “I know this sounds very old fashioned in today’s world, but the whole point of a watch is to tell the time quickly, easily and effortlessly. Only after that is it about how a watch looks on your wrist; it must be pleasing to the eye. That is what I like about Danish Design – it combines the both.”

Well said, Andy.

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NEW TIMEPIECES

The new Sportura collection draws on Seiko’s rich heritage to offer the real sportsman a timepiece that is as appropriate for scuba diving as it is for motorsport. With six alarm chronographs and three rugged kinetic diver’s watches, Sportura delivers “precision timing, high durability, total security and high legibility… in a design that is as sophisticated as it is practical.”

Information: 01628 770 988 or www.seiko.co.uk RRP: £350

For ladies who appreciate “unique design, impeccable quality and affordable luxury,” Christina Design London has revealed the new Christina Collect range. Christina Collect watches allow wearers to create personalised timepieces to suit their own style with a choice of straps – including 23 carat gold and stainless steel metal bracelets and on-trend, block-colour leather straps – and gemstones, with diamond, sapphire, ruby, amethyst, topaz and tsavorite to choose from. Each watch comes with one fullcut 0.01 carat diamond to get the customer started, and can be customised further still with the addition of a bezel decorated with 64 diamonds.

Information: 01992 812 945 RRP: From £169

Ones

to watch Elegant, dynamic and sport-smart, a.b.art says that its understated, Swiss-engineered black O150 and OC150 timepieces are “right on trend for discerning men and fashionista women.” The O150 (pictured), with its unique date-hole design picked out in bright red, and the OC150, with a similar design for its batons, will both be on show at IJL (stand G48).

Information: 01422 317 539 or www.abart-uk.com RRP: £212 The Vintage Squared watch is the premium model in the Kahn Timepieces collection by Kahn Design.

With rose gold casing complemented by a dark, luxurious brown leather strap and deep black face, this striking British design is manufactured to high standards in Switzerland, delivering a watch with “timeless style and flawless craftsmanship.”

Information: 01274 749 999 or www.kahntimepieces.com RRP: £350

Mixed metals

Visual juxtapositions Combining different metals can add a new dimension to jewellery design, as well as providing customers with a wider range of styles and price points to choose from, as Rebecca Hoh discovers

W

earing both gold and silver jewellery was the ultimate fashion faux pas for a long time, but with the current crop of beautiful designs that mix precious metals in one jewellery piece, that attitude is continuing to change. With big names alongside quirkier designer makers embracing the idea, combination items are a great asset to your shelves, from both an economical and aesthetic point of view.

“It used to be jewellery etiquette ‘taboo’ to mix silver and gold,” affirms UK designer Alice Menter, who sells wholesale to shops and boutiques, “so putting them together does create a very contemporary ‘now’ look.”

Her striking items are made of everyday objects, such as nuts, zips and bolts plated in silver and gold, used in combination to brilliant effect, including the striped statement cuffs ‘Isla’ and ‘Ruby’, along with combined strands of silver and gold chain in both earrings and necklaces. These continue to be some of her most popular designs. “Mixing gold and silver in contemporary pieces has developed into a bit of a trademark for my designs. It seemed like a natural step for me – I enjoy using contrasting materials in my work and the visual juxtaposition that these create, and I also like my designs to make people take a second look, and mixing the two metals in jewellery design can create very eye-catching, intriguing pieces; it’s almost like combining them creates a completely new colour.”

West-Yorkshire-based Iain Henderson makes both men’s and women’s jewellery, mixing silver, platinum, palladium, white, yellow and rose gold in both nine carat and 18 carat, as well as silver and stainless steel. One piece – the Union Ring, which starts at £71 wholesale – can incorporate as many of these metals as the wearer desires, encouraging consumers to select their own types, widths and finishes (polished, matt, hammered and plain).

“The Union collection has its origins in a range that initially utilised only silver,” explains Henderson. “To create a striking visual effect, I began mixing matt and polished silver finishes, but felt that I wanted to go even further and create pieces that were richer, deeper and more stunning in their visual appearance.” It was at this point Henderson started experimenting with mixing metals together, which has also

Alice Menter

Iain Henderson

Image: Simon Powell

24

Mixed metals

25

“Mixing two metals in jewellery design can create very eyecatching, intriguing pieces; it’s almost like combining them creates a completely new colour”

Kimberley Selwood

Emma Turpin

Jane Macintosh

led to him drawing upon innovations from his mechanical background. “My father restores old motorbikes and I spent much time as a child tinkering with engines. It was a natural progression for me to begin using stainless steel. The vision was there but a technical problem existed as I tried to work out how best to unify two different metals together in one piece. I decided to utilise engineering techniques, which have proved very effective and have allowed me to unite different metals that could not be joined using normal soldering techniques.”

For the price-led consumer, a real advantage of the Union collection is that Henderson can advise on mixing specific metals according to budget, while still achieving the desired design.

And for the consumer who likes added ‘bling’, diamonds can also be incorporated.

Kimberley Selwood uses a combination of silver and 18 carat gold in her work, which features fine, detailed organic and Baroque motifs and patterns, with elements picked out in the gold. “Combining the colour and properties of each metal allows the designs to be enhanced,” she explains, before moving on to the added financial benefits: “Using 18 carat gold as an accent means that the jewellery can be affordable but also striking; by using silver as the main element you can create size, volume and form and then highlight the design with the yellow gold.” She also feels that using a colour mix means customers can alternate their other jewellery and it will still match. “For example, women often have yellow gold wedding rings, and then find they are limited to wearing yellow, but with my pieces the accents ensure other types of aesthetic are opened up to them.”

More beautiful ‘combination’ items come from Emma Turpin, who will be exhibiting at KickStart at this year’s IJL. Turpin’s Maiden’s Garlands collection is inspired by traditional British folklore and uses a mix of fine silver sheet and sterling silver wire, creating a variety of forms, including ones that resemble origami flowers. All the rosettes are hand-folded from fine silver, making each one unique and every piece distinctive. The rosette is then combined with the wire detail, producing a range that extends from small stud earrings to large, one-off sculptural rings. Finishes can also be combined; Turpin offers all silver, silver with oxidised detail, and silver with 22 carat yellow gold plated detail.

Mixed metal offerings also come from Jane Macintosh – a frequent exhibitor at the Goldsmith’s Fair. She makes one-off pieces of

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26

Mixed metals

“For the wearer, it means the piece ca n be used with most other jewellery without wor rying about clashing” jewellery using traditional goldsmithing skills, and combines silver with high carat yellow and white gold to give subtle contrasts of tone and colour to her clean, symmetrical designs. She has just begun experimenting with oxidising sections of the silver, for a strong contrast and dramatic effect.

Stack ring supplier Daisy Jewellery also finds the benefits of the mixed metals to be clear, and has been adamant that it was a look it wanted to create. “Our stack rings are all 925 sterling silver, but we wanted to use the 18 carat gold plating as a highlight for the rings,” explains Daisy’s James Boyd. “This is something that is not used very much as many people seem to have a phobia of mixing the two metals aesthetically, but this style is exactly what we wanted. We had to take into consideration the price points we thought our customers would want to pay for the product, as well as a margin the stockist needs to make.” You can see the striking result in the Butterfly Stack collection, which continues to be a popular seller.

Another collection that makes the most of mixing metals is by Ana Verdun, who – in her own words – has been combining silver and gold ‘for years’! “As long as it is done tastefully I think it’s absolutely beautiful,” says Chiswickbased Verdun. “For the wearer, it means the piece can be used with most other jewellery without worrying about clashing. And for me as a designer it means I can introduce colour and contrast, accentuating certain details and textures.” She currently works mainly in sterling silver with 22 carat gold plate, which keeps the retail price affordable. Verdun also uses black rhodium plating, which she finds is a great way to offer a strong contrast to the gold plate. “My jewellery tends to be chunky but still feminine (many people call my style ‘delicate chunky’!), so using solid gold for these designs is very expensive. However, using 22 carat plating allows for a rich gold look without the prohibitive cost,” she elaborates.

One of her most popular pieces is based on eucalyptus gumnuts and seeds, pictured. “Here I think the mix is visually stunning, and I make them in both colourways to suit preferences. A couple of clients have actually opted for one of each! Not sure I’d wear them like that, but I admire their quirkiness!”

Also shown is her bracelet formed from the shape of an empty eucalyptus seedpod, which has also sold very well. “Mixing the metals here really brings the organic shape and surfaces to life,” explains Verdun, “again discovering a very simple natural motif and turning it into a distinctive and eye-catching piece of jewellery.”

Ana Verdun

Daisy Jewellery

Ana Verdun

Supplier listing Alice Menter: www.alicementer.co.uk Ana Verdun: www.anaverdun.com Daisy Jewellery: www.daisyjewellery.com Emma Turpin: www.emmaturpin.com Jane Macintosh: www.janemacintosh.com Kimberley Selwood: www.kimberleydesigns.co.uk Iain Henderson: www.iainhenderson.co.uk

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Men’s jewellery

A man’s world With reports of men’s jewellery continuing to rise in popularity, here is a selection of some of the latest masculine embellishments…

Babette Wasserman’s autumn/ winter collections are a celebration of British eccentricities and sharp tailoring. The Pinstripe cufflink range features cat’s eye stone stripes in bright pop colours, hues of blues, or elegant white mother of pearl and black pearl.

The Reverso Target range of brightly coloured enamel target cufflinks can be twisted on one side to change the colour, enabling the wearer to match them to different outfits. Meanwhile the Carbon Wave cufflinks, which were launched in black last season, are now available in blue and pink for a subtle and stylish look with just a flash of colour provided by the carbon fibre hand-set into the side of the cufflinks.

Information: 0208 964 9777 or info@babette-wasserman.com

Designer Poly Philippou’s sculptural cufflinks are bold shapes made from a single piece of solid metal with no moving parts. They come in four designs, and can be worn as identical pairs or mixed-and-matched as a nonidentical but co-ordinating pair for a more unusual look. The pieces shown here are made in solid silver and have a brushed finish. They are ideal for engraving personal messages. Poly is also working on extending the range to include different metals, different finishes and stones.

Information: 07775 658 833 or www.polyphilippou.com

Nick Hubbard Jewellery offers a whimsical, fun and masculine collection of contemporary cufflinks, tiepins and bold gents’ rings and bangles. Finding his inspiration from a love of words and literature coupled with a passion for comic and fine art, Nick makes his jewellery by hand from hallmarked, oxidised silver with gold embellishments.

Information: 01543 683 228 or www.nickhubbardjewellery.co.uk

Men’s jewellery

Creatures and folklore of the forest are the inspiration for Corvid – a darkly beautiful collection from men’s jewellery designer Chris Hawkins. Known for his unique, bold collections, which target an increasingly discerning male market, this latest offering is no exception. The designs incorporate woodland creatures like crows and foxes, with a unique twist, and the sleek Vertebrae bracelet is a bold statement piece. You can see new additions to this range at IJL 2011 (stand C21).

Information: 01273 554 632 or www.chrishawkinsjewellery.com

Inspired by the gargoyles on the famous Notre Dame cathedral in Paris, and named after Greek and Basque mythological creatures, this recently-launched Glitterati collection seeks to make a masculine statement. There is currently a choice of two bangles and two pairs of cufflinks in blackened silver, which after having been carved by hand in wax are hand-chased to give a detailed finish.

Information: 07779 228 635 or www.glitterati.gb.com

Ruby & Al’s 50s-influenced retro-petrolpunk jewellery for guys is a unique collection of hot-rod-inspired cuff bracelets, rings, pendants and cufflinks for men in sterling silver or bronze with optional black diamond glitz.

With designs based on custom cars, scallops and the sculptural styling seen in the vehicles conceived by such names as Ettore and Jean Bugatti, Harley Earl and Gordon Murray, Ruby & Al 4 Guys achieves a masculine collection appealing to men from all walks of life.

Information: 07760 886 774 or www.ruby-and-al.com

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Men’s jewellery

A growing proportion of the male population are wearing jewellery, and with style icons like David Beckham sporting bracelets, beads and diamonds, more men than ever are buying their own accessories. “Trollbeads are predominantly bought as gifts for men from their family and friends, but we’re definitely seeing an increase in the number of men choosing to buy Trollbeads for themselves,” says Sarah Morfoot, managing director of Fable Trading Ltd, Trollbeads’ sole distributor in the UK and Ireland.

“Men tend to wear the beads differently to women, often preferring a repetition of styles on a Trollbeads leather necklace or dark leather bracelet. Silver beads are the preferred choice and a single silver bead on leather is a current trend. Beads such as Lucky Knot, Three Siblings, Mocha, and Endless are all big favourites. Men also quite often like to team the silver beads with glass for a contrasting look, and mixed metals and jewellery pieces that tell a story are particularly popular,” she adds.

Information: 0117 377 4214 or www.trollbeads.co.uk

Founded in 1786, Deakin & Francis designs and produces fine quality handmade jewellery in its English workshops, using precious metal and incorporating vitreous enamel and fine gemstones. Owned and managed by James and Henry Deakin, the manufacturing jewellers and silversmiths have created over 1,000 cufflink designs for business people, celebrities and members of royalty worldwide. The collections are: the Businessman, the Gentleman, the Connoisseur, the Enthusiast, the Eccentric, the Adventurer, and the Sportsman.

They include gold and silver cufflinks, through to full dress sets in platinum and diamonds, and range from funky and fun to classic.

Information: 0121 236 7751 or www.deakinandfrancis.co.uk

Flash Jordan has turned conventional cufflink design upside down with its new ingeniously elegant range of ‘wraparound’ palladium and diamond cufflinks. Jeweller Neil Jordan says: “Cufflinks are the most popular item of jewellery for men, but the choices available are largely variations on the same old design. We wanted to rethink cufflink design and offer men luxury and style to reflect original thinking.” Britton Bespoke designs are all handmade in England to high standards.

Information: 0845 479 6587 or enquiries@flashjordan.co.uk

So Jewellery has added four new designs to its range of premium silver cufflinks, combining a clean, modern style with a timeless appeal. Each piece is made to high standards and is sealed with an anti-tarnish finish to promote a high shine and to delay tarnishing.

Some designs are exclusively silver, while others are set with mother of pearl or black onyx to add colour and depth. Presented in the company’s trademark packaging – a pristine white box with silver magnetic clasp – these silver cufflinks provide a great way to accessorise an outfit with understated elegance.

Information: 0208 892 7000 or www.sojewellery.co.uk

at IJL Visit us 15 1 Stand E

32

Comment

Give a dog a bad name With a recent Channel 4 documentary having been criticised by many for delivering inaccurate information about the gold industry, Michael Hoare comments upon the complexities of maintaining a good reputation

R

ecently the papers have been full of stories of footballers, bankers and politicians struggling to repair damaged reputations; or, depending on your view, using the law to gag those who would discuss their peccadilloes in public. The so-called ‘super injunction’ is the favoured way that the wealthy hope to prevent comment about their alleged dodgy deeds, and this has led to public debate about two tier justice and unequal access to the law when it comes to preventing the proliferation of illinformed speculation, rumour and downright lies.

I don’t condone the antics of so-called ‘celebrities’, nor do I believe that access to the law should be determined by wealth, but I do understand why someone would want to protect their standing. As the clergyman Joseph Hall said: “A reputation once broken may possibly be repaired, but the world will always keep their eyes on the spot where the crack was.”

Once someone has made their mind up about you it can be difficult to budge their prejudice. Their judgement becomes selective, and the only information they retain tends to support, and build upon, the picture resident in their heads.

And so it proved the other week, when the Channel Four documentary The Real Price of Gold was used as a platform for the views of businesswoman Deirdre Bounds. According to the blurb, she “reveals what’s wrong with the industry and goes on the road to present her unique take on how things could be done very differently.” The clue is in the word ‘unique’.

Many in the trade reacted with anger, some with dismay, and others with a shrug of resignation. Personally, I think the programme raised some worthwhile points about the issues the jewellery industry currently faces. It was also useful for consumers to understand the complexities that jewellers looking for ‘ethical’ supply chains are confronted with when trying to establish traceability in a gold supply chain not designed for transparency.

It is undeniable that the programme’s headline issues remain a reality within the industry. However, the programme was, in my opinion, shot through with inaccuracies, half truths, and snap judgements that undermined their argument. When caught in quicksand it’s difficult to know how much to struggle for fear of slipping further into the slough, and so it is with setting the record straight; but let’s just put some thoughts on the table here anyway. After all, neither the National Association

When caught in quicksand it’s difficult to know how much to struggle for fear of slipping further into the slough

of Goldsmiths (NAG) or the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA) were called upon to make comment, despite being the largest representatives of the jewellery industry in the UK. First, the programme was misleading in stating that there was not enough recycled gold in circulation, when in fact the majority of gold used in UK jewellery manufacture is from recycled sources. Second, there are a number of initiatives in development, including the World Gold Council and RJC ‘chain of custody’ standards, that will provide assurances that jewellers can pass on to customers about the ethical credentials of their products; but these have fairly long gestation periods. Meanwhile retailers’ demand for such goods grows, as is amply demonstrated by last year’s successful launch of Fairtrade Fairmined gold.

Last, the programme presented recycled gold as an ethically or morally superior alternative to newly mined gold. However, we can’t ignore the fact that newly mined gold is critically important to countries such as Ghana, Mali and Peru who benefit from the investment and tax revenues generated. Artisanal miners’ lives depend on the sale of the gold they mine and reducing the consumption of newly mined gold only pushes these communities deeper into poverty. It is inaccurate to assume that boycotting all newly mined gold therefore presents a more ethical alternative.

Indeed, the introduction of certified gold and ‘best practice’ for both social and environmental standards demonstrates the shift in the industry towards transparency, traceability and social responsibility in mining. But achieving a fully transparent system takes international effort, and both the NAG and the BJA remain fully committed to driving this forward for the British jewellery industry. Personally, I bitterly resent the implication that jewellers simply don’t care, and that nothing has been done to address the problems which we know exist; the work of all the initiatives including the RJC being glossed over and apparently dismissed out of hand.

But do my views or those of anyone else keen to see open and factual debate count for anything? Can we as an industry uphold public confidence in the face of criticism?

Some say that even acknowledging the mudslingers lends them some sort of credibility. Personally I hold to Socrates, the Greek philosopher’s dictum: “Regard your good name as the richest jewel you can possibly be possessed of – for credit is like fire; when once you have kindled it you may easily preserve it, but if you once extinguish it, you will find it an arduous task to rekindle it again. The way to gain a good reputation is to endeavour to be what you desire to appear.”

The last line says it all!

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36

IJL 2011 preview

In it to win it Louise Hoffman speaks to Syreeta Tranfield, event manager for International Jewellery London (IJL), to hear about the highlights of the upcoming 2011 show Reflecting on the past year, what in your opinion have been the main highs and lows for the industry?

The highs have to include the launch of Fairtrade Fairmined gold, which is a significant step forward for the industry; and the constant stream of new designers and collections in a challenging market – determination and tenacity never fail to impress, as well as originality of course.

Meanwhile, the high price of metal continues to dominate the lows; not only gold but also silver rocketing in value is without doubt taking its toll from miner to consumer.

Have these factors influenced your planning of the 2011 event?

Of course – IJL is a reflection of what’s happening in the industry.

Yes it’s tough out there but our exhibitors are committed to making the most of what the market has to offer and are participating in the show because it makes a difference to their business; they are not going to take orders hiding in their factories and offices! We are working hard to deliver a strong visitor audience, ready to restock and place orders

for the autumn/winter period. In addition, the complimentary seminars offer advice, direction and insight to enhance retailers’ businesses.

What delights to do have in store for visitors this year?

The main delight has to be the revival of the IJL Runway. Those who have known IJL for years will remember the Theatre of Jewellery – well, it’s back, but this time the show floor is the theatre and performances will take place on the Boulevard and it’s going to be fabulous! A showcase of amazing jewellery in a new and inspiring format. Of course all of IJL’s unique features will also be available to experience – the largest collection of UK and international jewellery suppliers at any UK event; Editors Choice; Bright Young Gems; KickStart; complimentary seminars and more.

Which key trends are you expecting to see emerge?

Visitors come to IJL to see the latest jewellery products, but they also definitely come to find out what the key trends are. At the show, top trend forecasting agency Stylesight will be

holding a trend seminar (which is free to attend) so that visitors can hear about the latest trends, and there will be other experts on hand as well as trend-setting designers and brands. I really recommend walking around the show and networking, to get a feel of the trends that are emerging – IJL is a great forum to share knowledge. The IJL Runway will also be a useful way to see trends being bought to life.

In terms of trends I am looking forward to, I think the vintage trend is exciting, and some exhibitors are mixing this with the pearl trend.

Rose gold also seems to be on-trend, and Andrew Geoghegan has some stunning rose gold cocktail rings (pictured right). While small, delicate jewellery will be another trend, large, eye-catching necklaces and bracelets are also set to be in demand – Hilary Alexander identified this broader fashion trend in the report she did for IJL recently (read this on www. jewellerylondon.com). Designers such as Rachel Galley and Jianhui London will reflect this trend, and Babette Wasserman will showcase catwalkinspired neckpieces with large, oversized crystals.

IJL 2011 preview

“Our favourite part of IJL is opening morning and the over whelming feeling of anticipation from both exhibitors and organisers of IJL”

And will there be many new brand launches?

There will be some exciting new names at IJL this year, as well as brand launches in the UK; Raymond Hak, the award-winning American designer, is one example – his silver and diamond jewellery is very design-led and high end. UK designer Alice Menter will also exhibit for the first time at a large trade event, showcasing best selling pieces from her recent signature collection alongside new designs, such as a stunning new selection of drop earrings and a capsule range of men’s jewellery. High quality, good value watches from Festina – already a major brand all over the rest of Europe – will be another of the many ‘firsts’. Vogue Diamond will also be new to the show, as well as Vendorafa – a dynamic Italian brand with a rich heritage in jewellery design – and this can be found on the Advalorem stand.

IJL is seen by many leading designers and brands as the prime time to launch new collections. Alice Gow Designs, for example, will unveil the new jewellery collection ‘Twisted’, featuring twisted sections of silver, highlighted by sweeps of

gold detailing. I’ve also just found out that Daisy Knights will launch a new range called ‘Wise’ – Daisy has already become a very successful designer following her launch as a Bright Young Gem at IJL and her creations are fast becoming the must have accessory, with the likes of Rihanna, Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe and Kate Moss all being advocates of the brand!

What are your thoughts on the current state of the sector, in terms of the economy etc, and how do you hope to help drive success?

It’s tough out there without doubt.

Retailers looking for new stock to refresh their window and entice customers in will find what they are looking for at IJL. For those who are not sure what the right product is, we’ve got experts including Hilary Alexander to guide retailers to the right product. We have trend advisors delivering seminars to explain what will be hot on the high street and will influence what will sell in the months ahead.

The wonderful thing about this industry is that everyone is so passionate about their products, crafts

or shops that this alone will drive success – the sheer determination to succeed. IJL will do its utmost to facilitate that.

Do you have a favourite element of the event? And why?

Our favourite part of IJL is opening morning and the overwhelming feeling of anticipation from both exhibitors and organisers of IJL about how the following four days will unfold; the queues of retailers outside the door, waiting to come in and be inspired, place those orders and catch up with old friends; and the amazing exhibits, collections, displays and people, ready to do business. It’s a special moment just before those doors open.

Any final words of motivation for those in the trade?

You’ve got to be in it to win it! Those that are exhibiting at IJL have something special to offer. They are committed to delivering good quality product and service to their customer. Support them and come and see them and others at IJL this September – it really could make a difference to your business.

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IJL 2011 preview

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Inspired by the richness of autumnal colours, Tezer Design has introduced a new collection of goldplated jewellery, which comprises necklaces, bracelets, pendants and earrings in modern and contemporary designs. Visit Tezer’s stand at IJL to view this collection and more, or contact UK sales agent Sharon Acton using the phone number below.

Information: 07774 928 045 Stand: G108

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Jules Jules will this year be exhibiting at IJL for the first time.

“This is an exciting new show for us, and we will be showing our glass and ceramic jewellery,” comments Jules Jules’s Juli Miller. “All our jewellery is designed and handmade in the UK, and we have some lovely designs that are perfect for the autumn/winter season, including Zebrano, shown here, which is part of our glass range.”

Information: 07970 057 866 or www.julesjules.co.uk Stand: B49

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Hazel Atkinson Jewellery says its latest collection, ‘Natural Selection’, has been highly successful, attracting many new customers and generating lots of repeat orders. “All colours have sold well, with ‘Summer’ and ‘Crystal Blue’ being particularly popular,” the company says, “and for autumn and winter, Hazel will be adding new cooler blues and purples.” Hazel designs and hand-prints each piece of ultra-light, anodised aluminium jewellery, and has a small team who assemble and distribute each unique item from her Nottingham studios.

Information: 0115 958 6183 or www.hazelatkinsonjewellery.co.uk

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Thai Design Distributors continues to deliver contemporary and traditional jewellery in silver, gold and assorted stones for ladies, men and children.

As a manufacturer with 38 years of experience in the jewellery trade, the company supplies to wholesalers, retailers and designers, and says that quick delivery, superb production quality and efficient customer service ensure the stability and growth of this family business.

Information: 0208 903 0233 or info@thaidesignuk.com Stand: E91

Stand: B55

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Amanda Cox will be exhibiting her ‘Oak Apple’ designs, inspired by the gall wasp, at this year’s IJL. The Oak Apple collection includes pendants, rings and earrings made with silver and 18-carat gold and set with diamonds and pearls.

Amanda will also be showing her ever-popular ‘Lily’ and ‘Rose’ collections, alongside new creations in the making that will be unveiled at the show.

Information: 01422 842 446 or www.amandacoxjewellery.co.uk Stand: C16

IJL 2011 preview

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Hand-crafted in Switzerland, the Step by Step range is created from high quality and rare metals, providing choice for the discerning consumer. The collection’s necklaces, lariats, bracelets and earrings are designed to provide a distinct addition to any outfit. Featuring on the IJL stand will be the rhodium and aluminium bracelets in silver, red and black, and the rhodium and brushed aluminium red necklace.

Information: 01422 317 539 or www.stepbystep-uk.com Stand: G48

Kali Ma Designs’ fun range of Ruby B. children’s silver jewellery brings together pendant, stud earring and bracelet sets with perfectly formed miniature strawberries and spotty pastel hearts detailed in enamel.

For the disco divas there are charm and stud sets in a glittering array of colours made using Austrian crystal, including cherries, hearts, butterflies and ladybirds, plus funky animals for the boys. The new ranges offer collectable keepsakes, with each piece packed with its own organza pouch and Ruby B. bag for safe-keeping.

Branded point of sale displays are also available.

Information: 01803 872 555, enquiries@kalimadesigns.com or www.kalimadesigns.com Stand: F30

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Majestic Jewellery is proud to announce the UK launch of its award-winning diamond jewellery range at this year’s IJL. Majestic’s jewellery – which has worldwide design patents and won Best in Show at Las Vegas – features precision diamonds cut to within 1/100mm and invisibly set under a microscope, resulting in a seamless jewel with all the splendour of a single large diamond. The Majestic collection offers a variety of classic shapes, such as round, pear, marquis, oval, heart and radiant, all set as rings, earrings, pendants and bracelets in 18-carat white gold.

Information: 01202 557 571 or office@majesticjewellery.net Stand: I138

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After a successful spring/summer 2011 that has seen stars from stage, screen, music and sports alike – including Justin Bieber, Nicole Scherzinger, Lewis Hamilton and JLS – wearing its statement bracelets, Tresor Paris will have its début showing at IJL in September. The fashion jewellery brand will be showcasing its autumn/winter 2012 collection, which features bracelets with names inspired by French towns, such as Grasse, Choisy, Cognac, and this year’s statement piece: Tresor. All bracelets feature spherical balls, set with a variety of crystals and precious and semi-precious gemstones, finished off with a black Tibetan cord.

Information: 0203 355 4030 or www.tresorparis.com Stand: I49

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IJL 2011 preview

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The Stack Ring Co, by Silver Willow, has recently added to two of its existing rhodium-plated 92.5 sterling silver ranges, and is also excited to be launching a brand new collection of ninecarat gold stack rings. The Prima range has been enhanced by a new vintage collection of designs, which contrast sparkling cubic zirconia with pretty, intricate surrounds influenced by the galaxy; while the Freedom range is transformed into ‘vintage chic’, allowing the wearer to step backwards into her chosen era via the faceted CZ, enamel flowers and love hearts and funky, textured bands. The new gold collection sees quirky textures with polished, brushed and matt finishes, complemented by dazzling diamonds, glistening rubies and sparkling sapphires.

Information: 01823 698 898, info@stackringco.com or www.silver-willow.com

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The Silvery will be exhibiting another collection of simple, wearable pieces made using its special technique for covering real natural items in layers of pure silver. With all pieces handmade in the UK and an attractive USP in that each piece is a true one-off as the original item is still encased in the silver, the company says high sales and repeat customers are assured. All items are supplied boxed with POS information. Be sure to visit the company’s stand for special offers that will only be available on orders placed at IJL. Information: 01273 472 570 or www.thesilvery.co.uk Stand: B21

Stand: F49

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Apsara will be presenting a collection of unheated rubies from a variety of sources, including Winza in Tanzania and northern Mozambique, available in one- and two-carat sizes. The sapphire collection will include an assortment of colours, from Madagascan blues to untreated golden and orange stones from the Bang Kacha deposits in eastern Thailand. Bang Kacha sapphires are characterised by their clarity and superb lustre and brilliance. Complementing the rubies and sapphires will be a display of spinels, mali garnets, spessartites, demantoids and many other coloured gems. Goods may be viewed and ordered online.

Information: 01737 358 071, info@apsara.co.uk (Peter Grumitt) or www.apsara.co.uk Stand: J29 The new Hanron Jewellery catalogue has finally arrived, and you can request your free ­­

copy using the contact details below. Featuring one of the largest and most varied ranges in the UK, Hanron says “innovative, fashionable and contemporary designs reflect the trends” throughout its diverse range, which includes diamonds, gold and silver.

Information: 0207 831 6170 or sales@hanronjewellery.com Stand: J40

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Come and visit KM Jewellery to see the full range of new It bracelets by Svane & Lührs.

A hand-sewn sheep’s leather bracelet finished with a magnet lock in either sterling silver or gold, It bracelets are available in over 30 colours and can be tailor-made for individual sizes.

Charms available for the bracelet number 350, and include clip-ons and tubes in silver and gold-plated silver, sparkling precious stones, feminine freshwater pearls and cubic zirconia.

KM Jewellery will also be showcasing its other brands including Mancini, Bellezza Rings, Little Angels and Tresor Paris.

Information: 0191 214 7074 or sales@km-jewellery.com Stand: F139

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IJL 2011 preview

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The new Siena Collection from Chamilia features vibrant colours and prints designed to enhance and complement any woman’s personal style. From warm browns to deep russet reds, umbers and rich greens, the collection’s colours are chosen to conjure images of the Tuscany region and the home of Siena, Italy. With gold-coloured flecks, on-trend freelymoving components and brilliant Swarovski Elements crystals, Chamilia says the Siena assortment – which is available in 14-carat rose and yellow gold and sterling silver – will capture your customers’ imagination and make “the perfect addition” to their Chamilia jewellery collection.

Information: 0844 811 2142 or chamiliauk@chamilia.com Stand: F121/E121

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Goldmark has developed a completely new manufacturing technique for custom-shaped wedding rings. This allows the company to return customers’ engagement rings within two days, knowing that the finished wedding ring will be a perfect fit every time. The designs of the wedding rings are sent to retailers by email, and, using their online tools, can easily be forwarded to customers for confirmation.

Information: 01268 833 082 or www.goldmarkuk.com Stand: H129

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A designer jeweller whose work has been featured in a number of films, with a client list that reads like a ‘who’s who’, Malcolm Morris has three current collections that cover a wide range of styles. He has jewellery with strong graphic looks in silver, oxidised silver – great for the autumn – and an on-trend silver/gold mix.

Information: malcolm@malcolm-morris.com or www.malcolm-morris.com Stand: D18

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Lucet Mundi launches onto the UK jewellery scene this summer; a luminous jewellery brand that combines aesthetics with mysticism, each piece in the collection has its own story to tell, with the owner “invited to interpret [it using] his or her own imagination once it is fastened firmly into place on the wrist.” To inaugurate the brand, four signature collections are to be launched – Lucky Amulets, Power Beads, Chinese Zodiac and Stardust – each with “soul as the key message.”

Information: 0844 736 5707 or www.silverfantasies.co.uk Stand: F140

Image: Richard Stroud

IJL 2011 preview

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Over a period of time, R E Morrish has acquired the Dearn & Williams, Goldstar, Sheargold and Evermorn manufacturing businesses and has incorporated its production within these brands of jewellery. R E Morrish is exhibiting at IJL 2011, so if you would like to see the bestselling lines from all these companies, come along to the stand, where Bob, Anne and Rachel Morrish will be happy to meet you.

Information: 0121 551 4020 or sales@remorrish.com Stand: I80

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Marcia of Marcia Lanyon Ltd has been busy hand-picking the wide range of freshwater pearls, stones and beads that customers have come to expect from the company’s IJL stand, along with big nugget pearls, sparkling faceted beads and fancy-cut stones in accordance with upcoming trends. From striking sapphires or chunky dyed howlite, to a calibrated facet or a totally unique cabochon, Marcia Lanyon and her team are ready to help. Visit the stand at IJL or book an appointment at the company’s west London office.

Information: 0207 602 2446 or sales@marcialanyon.com Stand: J51

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Since 2008, Corona has manufactured all its products in Canadian certified gold. It is pleased to present its exciting new range of diamond-set jewellery, created in all carats of Canadian certified gold and platinum, at IJL. Also available are its unique certified diamond brands, Maple Leaf Diamonds and I AM Canadian – diamonds that are traceable to their Canadian origin.

Information: 01299 832 813, cherry@coronajewellery.com or www.coronajewellery.com Stand: H31

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Come and see the new range of premium mounts from Treasure House at IJL, as part of an extended range of high quality, affordable mounts that will be on show. Most mounts are available in both nine-carat and 18-carat white and yellow gold and platinum. Treasure House will also be showing its diamond and wedding ring ranges and its increasingly popular Silver & Co bead and charm collection.

Information: 0207 400 0000 or www.thgold.com Stand: E79

The team at Hallmark Design & Shopfitting have been designing and installing attractive, functional shops for over 40 years.

As a design-led company conscious of its joinery lasting the test of time, Hallmark says it wants to ensure that its designs will achieve the same. Following a personal consultation with the customer, Hallmark will present a scheme and a budget, completely free of charge and without obligation. Together with the customer, Hallmark will then refine the scheme, agree a price and a programme and carry out the installation, taking the project from concept to completion.

Information: 0121 355 3333 or info@hallmarkdesign.co.uk Stand: I101

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IJL 2011 preview

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Specialist brand Jo for Girls says it has continued to have a very busy year, following on from a successful Spring Fair which saw the launch of its Forever Friends collection, shortlisted for Gift of the Year 2011. The company has recently set up a national sales force to continue this growth.

New to the range for the summer is the Birthstone Angels collection, which includes a card detailing the qualities believed to be unique to those born that month, and the colourful Tantalising Strawberry set of pendant, earrings, and charms.

Information: 01887 820 760 or sales@perthshirejewellery.co.uk Trollbeads will be celebrating its 35 ¯¯

th

Stand: E159

anniversary at IJL, with its latest Universal Uniques collection on display. These one-of-a-kind Italian Murano glass beads feature a universalsized core, allowing them to fit all major charm bracelet brands. An exciting new autumn collection will be on show for the first time, together with the very latest collection of Debut bracelets. In addition, there will be a colourful array of handcrafted Murano glass beads, live lamp-working demonstrations and a wide selection of beads in silver, gold and precious stones alongside Trollbeads’ earring hooks and accessories.

Information: 0117 377 4214 or www.trollbeads.co.uk Stand: F90

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Reading-based Gift Time Products says its sales of alarm clocks continue to thrive. It explains: “These faux leather travel alarm clocks, available in black or brown, are excellent quality, and each features a plate on top for engraving. The round version even has a rotating time zone ring to see local times around the world.” A full CD catalogue is available on request, or a price-free version can be downloaded from the website. Trade price lists are sent on request.

Information: 0118 947 1405 or www.gift-time-products.co.uk Stand: I140

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Marcus McCallum says he feels optimistic for IJL 2011. Seeing an increase in interest in unusual coloured stones, fancy cuts and the use of rough and natural stones, he will be concentrating on both these and higher-quality and unusual freshwater pearls and beads. Also keep an eye out for his newly-expanded website, which will have photos and details of much of his stock and will be updated regularly with new stones, pearls and beads.

Information: 0207 405 2169 or www.marcusmccallum.com

McCourt’s Jewellery has been supplying fine jewellery to the wholesale industry since 1979, and is constantly moving forward to keep up-to-date with different trends. McCourt’s says it is renowned for the quality of its stones and special designs, and welcomes IJL visitors to its stand where the team will be happy to help.

Information: 01670 788 989 or www.mccourtsjewellery.com

Stand: J31

Stand: H64

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IJL 2011 preview

Image courtesy of ArtCAM customer Miriam Rowe

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At this year’s IJL, Delcam will demonstrate its latest CNC software for the jewellery industry: ArtCAM JewelSmith 2011. The software is available in both 32- and 64-bit formats, and enables jewellers to assemble complete pieces of jewellery even faster, thanks to its extended and enhanced component libraries that give jewellers access to over 550 individual components. New models include clusters, collets, tiffany-style shanks and channel rings, among many others. Delcam will also exhibit its Rapid Prototyping Bureau Service and Delcam JewelSmith Designer.

Information: info@artcam.com or www.artcamjewelsmith.com

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NOA says its jewellery is a “magical union” between colourful ceramics and cool metals, such as sterling silver, brass and its new aluminium frames. Its pendants, necklaces, bracelets and earrings – all of which are available as matching sets – are small, with intricate ceramic designs, and most are packaged in specially-designed presentation boxes. NOA’s whole manufacturing process takes place in the UK, with each piece hand-crafted and marked with the NOA stamp. You may view the latest collection and request a download of NOA’s trade catalogue via the website.

Information: 029 2075 8409, noa.jewellery@virgin.net or www.noajewellery.com Stand: C105

Stand: C160

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Unique Jewelry is a modern, design-led jewellery company particularly known for its use of new materials like stainless steel, titanium and tungsten, as in its successful men’s collection. Its new men’s collection is created using braided leather in combination with stainless steel elements and special clasps to create a masculine and trendy look. Unique says the designs are “urban, young and contemporary” and are crafted to high quality at affordable prices. For further information, please contact Daniel Ozel.

Information: 0207 405 5523, daniel@uniquejewelry.co.uk or www.uniquejewelry.co.uk Stand: E115 Reading-based David ®® Gecko is celebrating 20 years in the jewellery business at IJL 2011. In that time Gecko has been honoured with many awards, twice winning Supplier of the Year, and it says that “innovation, winning looks and price awareness” are evident in the ranges launching at IJL. Highlights at its stand include amethyst cabochon drops and hummingbirds’ wings in the Elements Gold range; “striking colour from Swarovski crystals and sculptural looks” in its Elements Silver collection; dramatic and precious colour in silver and costume in the Fiorelli range; and Basics – a new, price-beating silver collection.

Information: 01376 532 000 or sales@geckojewellery.com

Peterson Clocks says it has had a fantastic year. The company states: “Rising prices and the record gold price have had little effect on a resurgent market, where carriage clocks are once again seen as the preferred gift for long service and corporate awards etc. Our after-sales service is second to none, and all clocks are fully tested before dispatch.” A full CD catalogue is available on request, or a pricefree version can be downloaded from the website. Trade price lists are sent on request.

Information: 0118 947 1405 or www.dpclocks.co.uk

Stand: F31

Stand: I140

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Nature’s designs encased in layers of pure silver

Unique pieces all hand made in our Sussex workshop Items supplied boxed and with Point of Sale card RRP’s starting at just jus £19.99

We’ve got it covered Please visit us at stand B21 at IJL to take advantage of some brilliant offers

www.thesilvery.co.uk

(01273) 472570

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IJL 2011 preview

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At IJL, Vizati will be offering attractive and unusual stones set in sterling silver. As mineral collectors, Vizati’s owners go to great efforts to buy special stones, such as solid, rough Ethiopian opal; pietersite; bi-colour tourmaline crystals; azurite with malachite; charoite; chrysocolla; and pyritised ammonites. There will be a selection of pendants, earrings and adjustable rings available to choose from on a first-come-first-served basis, including the very popular White Satin range – which has been expanded to include a number of contemporary new designs – and 5EXTRA; a new range of five-micron silver-plated jewellery.

Information: 01323 485 605 or www.vizati.com Stand: D81

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www.neilsonphotography.com – exhibiting at IJL for the first time this year – is an awardwinning jewellery photography studio that offers product photography services for web and print throughout the world. Meetings with the company can be pre-booked online through the IJL website, or simply visit the stand for a chat to see high quality examples of its work and the ways in which it can take brand imaging to “the next level”.

Information: 0141 353 1383 or www.neilsonphotography.com Stand: C117

Since last year, Erfurt Design has produced its own Ethiopian opals, and has now introduced a line of unique opal jewellery that can be set in silver, in combination with 18-carat gold or with a choice of loose stones. It will also be unveiling a set of striking new designs incorporating aquamarine, kunzite, tanzanite, ruby and special rutilated quartz.

Information: www.erfurt-design.de or erfurt-design@t-online.de Stand: D111

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Midhaven says its range of stainless steel and braided leather bracelets for men and women offers the opportunity for a healthy margin and a chance to brighten up your displays with blacks, reds, berries and chestnut colours, at a price that won’t break the bank.

Information: 01299 851 513 or www.midhavensilver.com

Elran Ltd is showcasing two brand new collections for autumn/winter 2011, including Amaro, a fusion of genuine semi-precious stones set into today’s popular silver and gold metal colours; and Sea-Smadar, a collection of high quality materials with an emphasis on leather, Swarovski crystals and metals plated with 925 silver and 24-carat gold.

Information: 0208 208 4409 or www.elran.co.uk

Stand: F51

Stand: A89

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Get your silver sorted

SEE US ON STAND E79 at IJL

When you need up to the minute designs and a fast turn round on orders

45 Kirby Street, Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8TE Tel: 020 7400 0000 Fax: 020 7400 0010

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Designer

Dramatic licence

Tomasz Donocik draws upon great literature, architecture, music and events of the past in creating his powerful jewellery collections.

Louise Hoffman discovers more…

Your collections are many and varied, with a common theme of dramatic design.

Can you tell us more about the philosophies behind your work?

My designs draw inspiration from factual and fictional legends, classical literature and architecture. I primarily view my designs as timeless artistic objects, as opposed to adornment. I do not work under the constraints of traditional jewellery design; I aim to challenge preconceptions of self-adornment. Through the sensitive fusion of materials my bold, masculine and often androgynous designs inject the discipline with new meaning and form. I also strive to continuously push the boundaries between fashion and jewellery by introducing new materials such as leather and silk, and evolving existing practices in addition to creating new techniques.

To date I have created four silver and fashion collections. There is Four Elements, which re-contextualises classicism and mythology for the discerning accessories wearer, and is a collection of exquisite cocktail rings which centres around the symbolic creatures for the four elements: earth, fire, water and air. A fine cocktail ring collection features phoenix birds set with specitite garnet, yellow diamonds and rubies, and Snake Medusa is encrusted with cognac diamonds and tourmaline. Meanwhile Russian Aristocrat takes inspiration from Lemontov’s most famous novel A Hero of our Time, and in particular its most romantic hero Pechorin. It is an androgynous collection of jewellery for men to wear (and girlfriends to steal), utilising luxurious, traditional materials as seen in the iconic ‘Chesterfield cuffs’ made from leather quilting, met with more avantgarde elements such as the Siberian horse hair pendants. Rising Star is a salute to the Soviet era via its distinguished military uniform and the platonic architecture of post-Soviet Russia. The direct iconography of the star in sterling silver is featured, as is the use of bronze, which was typically used for creating Soviet statues. Finally Guns ‘n’ Roses pays

Designer

“I strive to continuously push the boundaries between fashion and jewellery by introducing new materials and evolving existing practices in addition to creating new techniques” homage to the 1980s original American hard rock band, which brought forth a hedonistic rebelliousness and revived the punk-attitude-driven hard rock scene. Intricate pistol pendants form the basis for this collection in silver, gold plated and black gold plated pieces. Forthcoming pieces will play on the romanticism of the rose as delicate intertwined flowers create a stark contrast to the pistols. All can be viewed at www.tomaszdonocik.com

How did you develop your style and ideas?

I originally studied fine art, painting, sculpting, installations and photography. I considered myself an artist/designer and did not plan to pursue a career in jewellery; this evolved naturally and I went on to complete a BA Hons in Jewellery Designing at Central Saint Martins, followed by a Master of Arts in Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, Metalwork and Jewellery at the Royal College of Art (RCA) in 2006. Immediately after leaving RCA I was entered into the New Designers exhibition, where I was awarded ‘Best Designer’ and also attracted the attention of Stephen Webster, who appointed me to join his esteemed design team.

While working for Stephen Webster, I was responsible for designing a men’s collection called ‘Burning Rocks’ for De Beers, and later the ‘Hunter’ collection for Garrard, which Stephen Webster is also creative director for. This gave me a great foundation to enable me to launch my own brand, and I have not looked back since.

In terms of influences, I love cultural days out for inspiration, from intricate cathedrals to grand museums. Growing up in Austria I was surrounded by architecture and there were plenty of family days out visiting amazing exhibitions. History is another of my passions; whether factual or mythical, to me there is deeper meaning behind my pieces when I draw from events of the past, and they are so much more interesting to design.

Role models include Jean-Michel Basquiat; an American graffiti artist in New York City in the late 1970s/early 80s who was known for his Neoexpressionist style, portraying recognisable objects in often abstract manners using vivid colours and colour harmonies. Another would be Antoni Tàpies – one of the most famous European artists of his generation who was perhaps the best Catalan artist to emerge in the period since the second world war. In the jewellery arena I personally admire Stephen Webster and Sevan Bicakci, who both produce amazing work.

Which collection or piece are you most proud of and why?

My debut fine womenswear jewellery collection, ‘The Garden of Good & Evil’. This is a concise collection designed to be commercial within the luxury market, incorporating entry level and high-end pieces. Of course this is far from a mainstream collection but it has been accurately designed and executed to sit accordingly in the marketplace. I am also very proud of my first fine couture piece entitled ‘The Courtship of the Hornbill’; a ring born in the summer of 2010 through a collaboration with the Eco Art Foundation. The piece is made from mammoth tusk and white, yellow and black diamonds, and demonstrates my intrepid approach to design and uncompromising quality. This piece was auctioned in Sotheby’s Abu Dhabi in November 2010 for $48,000 (the highest selling item). I have recently completed my second commission, creating a variation on the original piece.

Which materials do you most enjoy working with?

Contradictory materials; mixing soft to hard and rough to polished, for example. I also have a fondness for leather with gold and silver and stone accents, which is apparent in my collections. I am initially drawn to materials to begin my creations. I use unconventional methods in my approach, also.

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Designer

Can you tell us about your most recent collection?

Inspired by the paradox of the natural world, ‘The Garden of Good & Evil’ fuses the sinister side of beauty with the evident.

Thirty-one pieces complete the intricate collection, with fierce tsavorite Venus Flytraps capturing delicate, diamond-coated snowbells. The collection comprises pendants, earrings, rings and bracelets with wholesale prices starting from £450, and it will officially launch in the prestigious Garrard London flagship store early Autumn 2011.

“History is another of my passions; whether factual or mythical, to me there is deeper meaning behind my pieces when I draw from events of the past”

Which factors should designers consider when creating jewellery for today’s consumer?

Create a wholesome brand which has some diversity so consumers can buy into different categories and price points; understand and be well versed on the ethical side of your materials, and be aware of different issues in the industry; and ensure you have supporting material such as a synopsis on your collection and look books – professional imagery is also essential.

Do you have plans in the pipeline for your next collection?

The fine jewellery launches later this year and in the meantime I have begun working on a women’s silver/fashion collection. I will also continue to make one-off pieces in addition to expanding on current collections and exploring collaboration opportunities.

Finally, how do you intend to develop your brand over the next few years?

I have different agents across the world from Japan and the USA to the UK, and these are working in harmony with PR in their country so we can successfully sustain and increase awareness of the brand on a global scale. I will also enter in to industry awards, as these accolades make a big difference with awareness and gaining a reputation both in the industry and with consumers. It is also paramount that I continue to customise my collections for various markets to ensure we are offering appropriate products to each country.

Contact the National Association of Goldsmiths on: Email: Tel: Web:

NAG 190mm x 94mm ad .indd 1

nag@jewellers-online.org 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org

06/07/2011 22:26

Advertisement feature

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Interview

Success stories Despite the troubled economy, Aurum Holdings reported one of its most successful trading years to date for 2010.

Louise Hoffman catches up with diamond buyer Emma Boat for a quick chat about the group’s recipe for success At the Birmingham Assay Office Trade Review back in January, one could not fail to notice the rather buoyant festive sales figures achieved by Goldsmiths. Congratulations on this success! And can you tell us more?

Aurum Holdings’ portfolio, which includes Mappin & Webb, Watches of Switzerland and Goldsmiths, achieved record sales of £326 million in the year ending 30 January 2011, and a corresponding EBITDA (earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortisation) of £16.1 million on the back of a 16.6 per cent like-for-like performance. As recently reported, the group has been put up for sale by its shareholders following one of the most successful years of trading in its history.

When the results were announced, group chairman Don McCarthy commented: “Aurum has been one of the few success stories on the British high street over recent years.

Since the restructuring of the group in 2009, the business has delivered well beyond our expectations in terms of both revenue and profit growth. [The] team have significantly outperformed the first two years of our investment plan and we have therefore decided to look for a new investor that is able to assist this team in capitalising on the

“Aurum has been one of the few success stories on the British high street over recent years”

very significant and credible opportunities that are now presenting themselves.”

This outstanding trading performance was particularly impressive in light of the extreme weather conditions that battered UK retailers over the 2010 Christmas period. As CEO Justin Stead commented, “it is very pleasing to see that our well-documented strategy is starting to deliver significant returns. Our vision for the future suggests that we are at the very beginning of an exciting period in the group’s history. We have enjoyed great support from our existing shareholders, but recognise that their investment horizon was always going to be limited. We are now looking forward to working with a new shareholder that can support us in realising our serious ambitions and outstanding potential for the Aurum business in the years to come.”

As diamond buyer, what were your personal contributions to this sales drive?

I am heavily involved at concept and development stage of product design and look for exclusive opportunities.

I undertake research to understand what the customer wants and how Goldsmiths can best serve this. 2010’s key achievements include the launch of two new ranges – both exclusive and unique. The strong product offering in these two ranges gives us differentiation and a significant opportunity, with sales performance having exceeded expectations.

What are the most essential qualities in a successful jewellery buyer?

Being adaptable to change and having a keen eye for the smallest of details.

How are you catering to the economic climate?

We are constantly looking to provide our customers with great value, excellent quality and variety, so I will be looking for exclusive opportunities to offer an enhanced choice to our customers.

Are consumers changing their habits in terms of choosing wedding and engagement rings?

Consumer habits are constantly changing with the evolution of design and technology. Customers are also looking for pieces that make them feel great, and we at Goldsmiths hope to be able to make their milestones as special as possible.

Do you have any particular consumer trend predictions for the rest of 2011?

2011 has and will continue to bring with it a return to the classics.

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11:

Pearly whites

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Focus on

pearls

Renowned for its elegance and glamour, pearl jewellery continues to exude a timeless charm. Jon Chapple examines some of the latest collections available to stock for the autumn/winter season

I

n keeping with the on-going trend for all things classic and timeless, retro-inspired pearl jewellery is currently experiencing something of a renaissance. Long the preserve of the upper echelons of society – first for royalty and the aristocracy, and later for icons of the stage and screen – pearl jewellery has become so accessible and affordable thanks to the availability of cultured and imitation pearls, that the market has widened considerably.

However, this isn’t to say that modern pearl jewellery has lost any of the elegance or gravitas traditionally associated with what Federico

Fellini described as “the oyster’s autobiography”. Royals, celebrities and other public figures continue to adorn themselves in pearls, keenly aware of the popular conception of pearl jewellery as an icon of understated class and glamour. Moreover, the latest round of new pearl collections remain a perfect complement to the current ontrend, demure, vintage-style clothing; meaning pearls are set to be a key trend throughout autumn/winter 2011.

Coleman Douglas Pearls, the pearl jewellery brand created by designer Chrissie Douglas, says that its new Madame Butterfly range – inspired

by the 1930s film of the same name – brings together “vintage and romance with a delicate collection of diamonds, pearls and brazilianite.” Designed with the “essence of a Japanese garden” in mind, the light reflected from the transparent green, pastel pink and purple stones is “reminiscent of shimmering water in a Japanese garden,” and the company states that the combination of diamonds with brazilianite – a rare and unusual transparent gemstone – “exudes vintage glamour and understated elegance.”

“Pearls are a symbol of elegance and style,” explains Coleman Douglas Pearls, “as they light up the wearer’s face. The vintage feel of this collection sits perfectly in the favoured jewels of the Hollywood stars of this time, who made the most of the enhancing qualities of pearls… knowing they were rendered automatically elegant, stylish and beautiful by wearing them.”

The Fiorelli Silver range by Gecko is this season offering retailers a selection of new pearl jewellery inspired by “the delicate shapes in nature”. The Leaf collection, which features subtle, intricate cut-out detailing, perfect for

Pearly whites

2

3

3

everyday wear, sees a lustrous purple freshwater pearl hanging in the heart of each rhodium-plated silver piece; while the Cherry Blossom collection, designed for the “romantic moods of the wedding season,” features softlycurved petals, crafted from rhodiumplated silver, and a white freshwater pearl centre detail on each pendant and earring.

And pearls are not only suited to women’s fashion needs, as Nexus Pearls has proved. Sitting neatly alongside its traditional fine ranges are high-quality silver- and rhodiumplated cufflinks featuring inlaid South Sea and Tahitian mother of pearl.

These cufflinks are aimed at gift buyers seeking a quality gentlemen’s gift – perhaps for a pearl anniversary – at a reasonable price. “In difficult trading conditions, we believe it is important to maintain a quality offering at a price that the public can afford and the trade can profit from,” the company says.

1) Coleman Douglas Pearls: 0207 373 3369 2) Gecko Jewellery: 01376 532 000 3) Nexus Pearls: 0121 554 9999

57

Designed by Purists.

Fashioned by the Swiss.

Exclusively hand-crafted, contemporary jewellery Collection.

See us at I JL

Stand G48

www.stepbystep-uk.com 01422 317540

Step by Step - Jewellery Focus

93mm x 130mm

60

How do they do that?

Pearl treatments

Anu Manchanda, senior gemmologist for AnchorCert, explains how some of the most popular pearl enhancements – applicable to pearls created by a natural process – are carried out and subsequently detected

P

earls have been sought-after for centuries due to their beautiful natural lustre. The process by which a mollusc creates a pearl is a natural phenomenon and even though the majority of pearls on the market in the 21st century are ‘cultured pearls’ and have been the subject of some human intervention, their creation still depends upon a natural process.

Pearls are formed in molluscs, living in both saltwater and freshwater. They occur when the mollusc is invaded by a foreign substance such as a small piece of grit washed in by the sea. At this point the mollusc will immediately start to build natural defences to protect its nucleus by way of adding layers of nacre, creating a pearl as we know it.

As with all natural products, the colour and lustre of pearls varies widely and there are many ways to enhance and improve them in order to increase their value on the market. The idea of treating pearls is centuries old and the writings of Pliny from 2000 years ago have reference to some of the treatments still used today.

Pearls created by the natural process are organic gem material and come out of the

oyster requiring no cutting and polishing apart from cleaning. The pearls are usually washed or soaked in mild hydrogen peroxide to clean or bleach them as required. Most freshwater pearls undergo such a process before coming to market, and this is accepted by the industry as a routine practice. Other accepted treatments are buffing with beeswax or polishers to improve the lustre or remove minor surface scratches.

The process must be done without chemical intervention as this can affect the nacre.

Pearls can be enhanced by other methods too, but these treatments must be disclosed to the buyer at all stages of the supply chain as the fact that the pearl has been treated will make it less valuable than an apparently equivalent pearl in its natural state. There are five main ways in which a pearl can be treated and each has its own tell tale signs that a gemmologist will look for when assessing a pearl.

How do they do that?

Staining and dyeing

Pearls may be overtly stained to create a colour that would never appear naturally. For example, they may be stained grey or black by soaking them in a solution of mild silver nitrate and ammonia and then exposing them to light.

When the silver nitrate comes into contact with light it decomposes and deposits a sub-surface layer of metallic silver.

Other organic and inorganic dyes can be used to impart different colours to the pearls which do not deliver such an obviously unnatural colour. The dyes usually stain the nacre of the pearls. This treatment can be carried out on natural and cultured pearls. Pearl farmers regularly give a rosé overtone to akoya pearls by a process called ‘pinking’.

Jewellers and gemmologists assessing a pearl for treatment can identify a dyed pearl by looking down a drill hole to see the concentration of colour near the surface or the concentration of dye in the cracks. Sometimes the pearls are dyed on the strand and the strand may also take the colour of the dye.

Further assessment needs more sophisticated equipment. The silver on a stained pearl will show up under an X-radiograph as a pale ring between the nacre and the bead nucleus. The presence of silver can also be picked up by testing the pearl using X-ray fluorescence test. Dyed pearls also react in a different manner to UVfluorescence than a natural coloured pearl; they are inert or dull green to UV while the natural pearls can fluoresce from bright red to dull reddish brown. Dye can also be picked up by infrared photo test, fibre optic test and high magnification.

Irradiation

Gamma ray irradiation is another method used to colour pearls. The gamma ray usually imparts colour to the nucleus of a saltwater pearl instead of colouring the nacre, whereas in a freshwater pearl the gamma ray will make the nacre very dark and may also give it a metallic and even iridescent sheen. An experienced gemmologist will recognise the darkened nucleus in a beaded cultured pearl, which can be seen from the drill hole, as an indication of irradiation due to gamma rays.

For both dyed and irradiated pearls the matching colour in the strand can be a very good indication of treatment. If the colour is natural there may be a very slight variation from pearl to pearl, but in a treated strand the colour may be suspiciously uniform and perfect.

Focus on the expert Anu Manchanda MSc, GG, DGA, FGA, P J Dip, FNAG Pearl Graduate (GIA)

Coating

Pearls can be coated to enhance their lustre. A clear lustrous coating is applied to the pearl, which improves it temporarily, but with time and use the coating may peel off showing the inferior lustre underneath. The coating can be detected by the feel or where the coating has peeled off. Under high magnification the coated surface will look very smooth in contrast to the natural, scaly look of the nacre.

Filling

Natural pearls can be filled with epoxy or other foreign material to either make them of the weight expected for their size or to make them more solid and durable if there is a gap between the nucleus and the nacre in a beaded cultured pearl. The treatment can be detected

by X-radiographs.

Doctoring

Historically, natural pearls have also been improved by peeling off any stained, dull or damaged layers of nacre. This is an exceptionally skilful process requiring experience and expertise, as otherwise one peeling can lead to another until no pearl is left.

The wide variety of treatments available has brought attractive, affordable pearls to every level of the market. What is important for the continued popularity of pearls, and the integrity of the jewellery industry, is that such treatments are disclosed and reflected in the price of the pearl. Just as with a precious metal alloy, it is not always immediately apparent whether a gemstone is what it purports to be. As treatments become more sophisticated and identification more difficult there is an ever-increasing need for transparency in the trade and independent assessment using sophisticated technology.

Anu Manchanda holds a Masters degree (MSc) in Geology from India; an FGA, DGA from the School of Jewellery, Birmingham; and the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (PJ Dip) with distinction from the National Association of Goldsmiths. She is also a Fellow of the National Association of Goldsmiths (FNAG) and a Pearl Graduate of the Gemological Institute of America. She is recipient of the Christie’s Prize for Gemmology (2004).

This is a trade prize awarded to the best candidate of the year who derives his or her income from activities essentially connected with the jewellery trade.

Anu tutors for the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s Correspondence course students for both the Diamond Diploma and Gemmology Diploma courses (DGA & FGA).

As an AnchorCert senior gemmologist, Anu is responsible for accuracy and for new initiatives in the diamond grading and gem testing laboratory.

The Birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over 235 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office. During the past decade the Assay Office has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade. For more information visit

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62

TAKING STOCK

¯¯

Baird & Co has reported that its patterned bands are proving hugely popular at the moment. With the newest additions to the Bianco range (which have increased the collection by 50 per cent) there are more style options than ever before. Some of the designs are diamond-set, with many styles perfect for both women and men. Complementing Baird & Co’s already vast variety of rings is the Renoir collection, which benefits from multi-coloured, diamond-set, Celtic and shaped designs, among others. These can all be seen in the new, free catalogue, available now. Please call for details and sample sets.

Information: 0207 474 7444, team@goldline.co.uk, www.bianco-rings.com or www.goldline.co.uk

Takin Taking

stock

PP Manufacturing, the proud owner of a new workshop, ¯¯

is able to offer a whole range of technological services to the trade. PP Manufacturing says it was the first company to operate a Gemvision Revo mill in London and one of the first to operate a Revo mill and Solidscape wax printer; and fullycomputerised engraving allows it to carry out a whole range of different jobs, including laser-welding and CAD/CAM. “Having such a technologically-advanced workshop allows us to take on almost any job, from a single stone ring, right through to a three-dimensional skull or animal,” the company adds.

Information: 0207 404 3331 or www.ppmanufacturing.co.uk

¯¯

Designer silver brand Gemma J will be showcasing its best-selling Pebble Charm collection at Top Drawer in September (stand H66). Following the trend for collectable jewellery, the Silver Pebble range consists of numerous tactile solid silver charms worn on a range of pebble-compatible silver jewellery. With designs ranging from pebble birthstones, initial-inscribed pebbles, personalised pebbles and commemorative motif pebbles, there is a pebble to suit everybody.

Information: 0845 234 0576 or info@gemmaj.co.uk

¯¯

Retail management software provider Retail IT – whose current customers include Carolina Bucci, Theo Fennell, Garrard and Westwood Rocks – has launched a major new drive with jewellery retailers. Its all-new Yourcegid retail software runs live in real time (meaning there’s no polling; a low cost of ownership; and up-tothe-second accurate stock and reporting information) and allows retailers to track key jewellery-specific details like assay numbers, metals, carats and materials in items.

This solution is being used in Swatch, Royal Quartz, Jon Richards and Sephora stores around the globe.

Information: 0208 605 9768 or www.retailit.com

64

Selling

Stop those leaks!

Why do salespeople avoid turning over a sale when they are struggling?

And how can you rectify the situation?

Leonard Zell has the answers

M

ost storeowners have no idea how many sales leak out of their stores.

When salespeople are in trouble they keep it to themselves and jewellers wonder why they do not turn over the sale – or ‘TO’ for short – to them or their manager.

Throughout my 30 years of sales training these are the reasons salespeople have given for their avoidance of the TO: 1. Nobody actually told me how to TO, they just told me to do it.

2. I don’t know exactly when I should do it. I am just given ambiguous instructions that I should do it whenever I get in trouble.

3. Why should I TO the sale if I don’t get credit for it, or at least half the credit? I don’t care if we don’t have commission. The owner still knows how many sales I closed.

4. The only way I have been taught to TO is to demean myself. I always have to introduce the other salesperson as having more knowledge than I do. For instance, he is the ‘buyer’; the ‘gemmologist’; ‘knows more than I do’; or ‘the expert’. What does that make me?

Whenever the customer comes back, why should he then ask for me?

And here are the reasons jewellers avoid teaching the TO: 1. I haven’t got time. It takes all morning to set up the store, and then people disappear to have their coffee.

2. Not everyone is there on the same morning, so I have to repeat it all over again.

3. What good can it do? I haven’t got the time to police it; I’m busy doing other things.

4. I have tried it before, and now my salespeople TO too much. They are just too lazy and want me to finish all the sales for them. They don’t even try to close them. Why teach them the TO again and make it worse?

You should know right now that i f y o u o r your manager are off the sales fl o o r, y o u r salespeop le will not TO to you b e c a u s e you are not conveniently avai l a b l e

Well, there it is. Almost every jeweller can relate to at least one of these reasons. For the first time, you can see why your salespeople have not given you a chance to save sales. Just think how much money you let walk out the door – it’s depressing! However, there is an answer…

Introduce morning meetings for at least 45 minutes with you and your manager. Roleplay the TO with each of your salespeople. This will take time and several meetings before it sounds natural and you begin using it with your customers. The result is that you will have such a smooth TO that your customer will never be aware of it.

Adhere to these rules and the following dialogue for a successful TO: You (the owner or manager) must always be on the sales floor near salespeople you think may need help. This gives them added security knowing you’re nearby to bail them out of trouble and also makes it easier for them to call you in. You should know right now that if you or your manager are off the sales floor, your salespeople will not TO to you because you are not conveniently available.

Sales will leak out of your store.

The salesperson should say something like: “Mr Smith always comes up with good ideas. I would like to have him share them with you.”

You see? The salesperson did not demean him or herself by saying: “Mr Smith is a little more familiar with this than I am.” So ‘idea’ is a good keyword to remember.

If the customer asks a question – perhaps a technical question the salesperson does not know the answer to – he or she should say: “Let me ask Kathy Jones. I know she’ll have the answer.” It’s all about leaving negatives out of the conversation – avoid saying: “I don’t know”.

Why brag about your lack of knowledge?

The next part is important, because that is where the introduction comes in. If your salesperson does not know the customer’s name (even though he or she should), the other salesperson should be given the chance to introduce his or herself. Unfortunately, this seldom happens; the salesperson who is in trouble panics and brings the other

Selling

salesperson in with one long sentence, then hurries away. The customer isn’t fooled and wonders why you ever hired such an inexperienced salesperson.

Here is how the conversation should go: Salesperson (Mary Smith): “Let me bring in Kathy Jones. She always has some good ideas.” [Mary pauses to get customer’s acceptance, which could be just a nod.] “This is Kathy Jones.” [Mary must be quiet here so Kathy can introduce herself and get the customer’s name. If Mary doesn’t pause, she is putting Kathy at a disadvantage.]

Kathy: “I’m Kathy Jones.” [Kathy pauses and holds her gaze into the customer’s eyes, which makes the customer want to identify herself.]

Customer: “I’m Linda Johnson.”

Mary: “Kathy, I showed Mrs Johnson these two rings over here and these two over here.

She wants something with a lighter look. I know you always come up with some good ideas.” [It’s mandatory that Kathy be brought up-to-date; otherwise she could look foolish by either contradicting Mary or showing the same merchandise again.]

Kathy: “Thank you, Mary.”

[Kathy pauses so that Mary may excuse herself.]

Mary: “Mrs Johnson, I’m going to let Kathy continue, and I’ll be nearby.”

Kathy: “Thank you, Mary. Mrs Johnson, there is a ring I want to show you…”

Mary excused herself in a professional manner and did not demean herself by wimping out like many salespeople do. She even made herself important by saying: “I’ll be nearby.” This implies: “I’ll be nearby if you need me.”

Now, instead of Mary panicking and running away, she picks up a polishing cloth and goes to a nearby showcase just close enough to hear the conversation and starts cleaning jewellery. This is one of the best ways for her to learn selling, and besides, she told the customer she would be nearby. The only time she cannot be there is when she has to wait on another customer. By being close by, Kathy can also say: “Oh, Mary – Mrs Johnson likes this ring. Can you take her ring size and take care of it for her?”

This enables Kathy to turn the sale back to Mary in a very smooth manner. No one will be embarrassed and the best part is, you saved a sale.

You will see the TO explained in further detail in Leonard’s 180 page sales manual on proven jewellery selling techniques, and for the perfect complement, order – a full day’s sales training seminar recorded live on three CDs (available from ). Leonard Zell has been training fine jewellers throughout the world for 25 years. He will be conducting sales seminars in the UK for jewellers this autumn. To find more about his sales training seminars go to his website, ; email ; or call Leonard in the US on 001 503 412 9521 after 4pm UK time.

65

Pr io

A

: de Co y rit JF2 F

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68

Gift card schemes

Fantastic plastic

Chris Davies, managing director of HSBC Merchant Services, explains how to increase your profits through additional customer spend

which is redeemable only in your outlet or shop, enabling you to take advantage of typical additional customer spend of up to 40 per cent more than the value of the gift card (Card Commerce 2011).

Bespoke to business

W

hat is one of the greatest gifts you can give your business? Simply allowing customers to give their loved ones the gifts they really want.

Trends in consumer spending and payment preferences are changing, and the UK’s gift card and voucher market has experienced its highest ever year-on-year increase in sales, according to statistics released earlier this year from the UK Gift Card & Voucher Association (UKGCVA) (2011).

But despite being simple and effective to set up, many jewellery retailers have not participated in this valuable way to build loyalty and grow their business.

The gift that keeps on giving

The concept of gift cards is simple, attractive and, most importantly, effective. A card is uploaded with a specific amount of ‘cash’,

As well as increasing your brand visibility, customer spend and profitability, gift cards are programmed so that they are unique to your company. This means that not only are they a great way to raise awareness of your services to a wider audience, but customers are essentially ‘locked in’ to your business as they use the card solely on products associated with your brand.

They can be personalised with your company name, unique design and logo on the front, so brand recognition is reinforced each time a customer sees your cards.

Moreover, your brand profile can be raised at every touch point, from the display of your gift cards within your shop/outlet, to the circulation of cards as gifts – also potentially drawing in new business. When the cards are redeemed by the recipients, it is likely that they will also spend some of their own money on a service or product, resulting in valuable additional sales in your outlet.

Gift card schemes

Embracing a gift card scheme could well give your business a much-needed boost in the cur rent challenging economic climate Reap the rewards

To date, the use of gift card schemes has largely been confined to leading high street retailers and jewellery stores – but it does not have to be.

Increasingly popular are bespoke themed cards designed to tie in with special occasions such as birthdays or weddings. Customers are able to purchase cards and load them with a monetary gift and personalised message tailored to the event. These types of cards are appropriate for jewellery stores of all types.

Gift card schemes have also proven useful to retailers who have found themselves at the forefront of any slump in trading following the festive season, as this is the period when gift cards received as Christmas presents tend to be redeemed.

Most importantly, independent and smaller businesses shouldn’t be daunted by the thought of setting up a card scheme, many of which are available in batches, sized depending on your demand or size of business.

The average time between buying a gift and spending it is around 50 days, according to the UK Cards Association. This is significant for retailers as, essentially, they can increase their cash flow and benefit from the sale of cards without immediately having to exchange them for an item or product.

Electronic gift cards – benefits over paperbased solutions

So what are the advantages of trading in your existing paper voucher scheme for an electronic system? Quite simply, electronic gift card schemes have the added advantage of helping to protect your business against fraud or theft. While paper vouchers can easily be stolen or imitated, gift cards hold no monetary value until they are ‘activated’ with an amount of ‘cash’ upon purchase. This means you can display them in the most prominent position within your store, without having to worry about security issues. There is also no need to spend money on creating security measures for your paper vouchers, such as identifiable holograms.

Gift cards are ready programmed so that they can only be redeemed in your outlet.

Simplifying setup

Gift card schemes are extremely cost-effective and easy to set up. A gift card provider, such as Card Commerce, our provider, can develop and provide bespoke programmes for retailers. This is then underpinned by the merchant acquirer of choice, for example HSBC Merchant Services, which can provide support relating to all the necessary equipment required to maintain your

card scheme, including card processing terminals or additional software for your existing terminal operation. A price is based on the volume of gift cards ordered, and with the minimum order being just 100 cards this presents a great opportunity for smaller or independent outlets to take advantage and grow their business.

Expert advice is still essential on how to set up your service. From card design to display options, sales, staff training and the technicalities of how the process will work, there are support services available to ensure your business gets the best from your scheme.

Embrace the business boost

To summarise, not only are gift card schemes excellent marketing tools for both small and larger businesses, they are a fantastic way for retailers to extend the shopping experience for their customers. Technological advancement is paving the way for new methods of purchasing, and embracing a gift card scheme could well give your business a much-needed boost in the current challenging economic climate.

Top tips on setting up a gift card scheme

1. Look closely at the financial benefits to your business, by working out the additional revenue that could be made from the incremental spend (according to the UK Card Association, the cardholder is likely to spend up to 40 per cent above the value of the gift card).

2. Consider how you want to convey your brand through the design and display of your gift cards.

3. Choose a design that reflects and enhances your brand. Including the name of your business is a good way to get immediate brand recognition with your customers.

4. Think about how many gift cards you want to purchase – some schemes only require minimum orders of 100 cards, which means smaller businesses can take advantage of gift card schemes.

5. Sign up for a scheme and you may be able to update your software or your card-processing terminal, so that you are up-to-date with the latest equipment.

6. More often than not, your gift card provider can deliver one-to-one training with your staff members, ensuring you are making the most of your gift card scheme.

7. Display your gift cards in an eye-catching way at the front of your store to make sure all your customers are aware of your new service.

8. Use your management system to gather information on the effectiveness of your scheme so you can review and tailor it to your ongoing business needs.

Chris Davies is MD of HSBC Merchant Services LLP, a wholly-owned subsidiary of Global Payments Inc. Global Payments Inc (NYSE: GPN) is a leading provider of electronic transaction processing services for merchants, independent sales organisations (ISOs), financial institutions, government agencies and multinational corporations located throughout the United States, Canada, Europe, and the Asia-Pacific region.

Global Payments, a Fortune 1000 company, offers a comprehensive line of processing solutions for credit and debit cards, business-to-business purchasing cards, gift cards, electronic cheque conversion and cheque guarantee, verification and recovery including electronic cheque services, as well as terminal for management. Visit more information.

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70

Industry Data

Prices • Figures • Outlook Retail sales volume: May 2011 During May, year-on-year sales volumes increased by 0.2 per cent and the value of retail sales increased by 3.8 per cent.

Predominantly non-food stores saw growth across all sectors other than household goods stores, which plummeted for a fourth consecutive month by six per cent. Non-store retailing again saw the largest volume of year-on-year growth, with an increase of 19 per cent. Similarly, the average weekly value for internet retail sales in May was £527.3 million, with the internet contributing to 9.4 per cent of total retail sales.

Estimated prices in retail sales increased in May 3.8 per cent on the year and 0.3 per cent on the month.

During the period from April to May 2011, retail sales volumes decreased by 1.4 per cent, with value also decreasing by the same amount. The Office for National Statistics (ONS) states that possible reasons for the decrease were consumers cutting back due to the economic climate and April growth inflated by the extra bank holiday, royal wedding and warm weather.

Source: ONS

Metal prices

May 11

Jun 11

Jul 11

Change

Sterling silver (£/Kg)

687.87

670.20

654.11

Minus 2%

Gold (£/g)

29.64

30.22

30.35

No Change

Palladium (£/g)

14.40

15.56

15.42

Minus 1%

Platinum (£/g)

35.31

35.79

34.70

Minus 3%

Rhodium (£/g)

43.27

42.74

40.22

Minus 6%

Iridium (£/g)

20.62

20.69

21.11

Plus 2%

Ruthenium (£/g)

3.53

3.55

3.62

Plus 2%

Scrap metal prices

Apr 11

May 11

Jun 11

Change

Sterling silver scrap (£/kg)

645.85

629.26

614.15

Minus 2%

9ct Gold scrap (£/g)

10.73

10.93

10.98

No Change

14ct Gold scrap (£/g)

16.73

17.06

17.13

No Change

18ct Gold scrap (£/g)

21.45

21.87

21.97

No Change

22ct Gold scrap (£/g)

26.20

26.71

26.83

No Change

Platinum (95%) scrap (£/g)

28.51

28.90

28.02

Minus 3%

Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put

Diamond prices

May

Jul

Sep

Nov

Jan

2010 Seasonally adjusted figures

Mar

May

2011

Weight

G/VVS

G/SI

J/VVS

J/SI

J/I1

0.05 Carat

1,654

957

1,201

870

766

0.10 Carat

1,623

1,066

1,611

955

716

0.25 Carat

2,700

1,492

2,257

1,268

865

0.50 Carat

6,490

3,029

3,966

2,596

2,163

0.75 Carat

7,798

4,874

5,135

3,621

2,924

1.00 Carat

14,435

7,654

9,819

6,311

4,028

The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy.

Compiled at 1st July 2011 /Dollar Exchange Rate 1.6086

Industry Data

Hallmark figures Silver 999 958 925 800

Gold

999 990 916 750 585 375

Platinum

999 950 900 850

Palladium

999 950 500

Total

Hallmark figures Q2 2011

June 10

June 11

Variance

%

602 1,836 654,295 0 656,733 59 2 29,385 93,820 33,568 259,501 416,335 50 22,465 12 1 22,528 250 15,150 22 15,422 1,111,018

1,169 621 448,761 120 450,671 88 0 31,702 77,578 7,415 262,974 379,757 5 21,279 13 1 21,298 0 9,116 248 9,364 861,090

567 -1,215 -205,534 120 -206,062 29 -2 2,317 -16,242 -26,153 3,473 -36,578 -45 -1,186 1 0 -1,230 -250 -6,034 226 -6,058 -249,928

94.2 -66.2 -31.4 100.0 -31.4 49.2 -100.0 7.9 -17.3 -77.9 1.3 -8.8 -90.0 -5.3 8.3 0.0 -5.5 -100.0 -39.8 1,027.3 -39.3 -22.5

Silver 999 958 925 800

Gold 999 990 916 750 585 375

Platinum 999 950 900 850

June 10

June 11

Variance

%

1,804 4,878 1,902,997 1 1,909,680 93 4 83,517 253,191 63,506 803,061 1,203,372 145 68,183 117 4 68,449

4,360 1,532 1,238,343 127 1,244,362 137 8 87,308 203,858 15,779 621,690 928,780 20 61,527 32 9 61,588

2,556 -3,346 -664,654 126 -665,318 44 4 3,791 -49,333 -47,727 -181,371 -274,592 -125 -6,656 -85 5 -6,861

2

-248 -7,339

141.7 -68.6 -34.9 12,600.0 -34.8 47.3 100.0 4.5 -19.5 -75.2 -22.6 -22.8 -86.2 -9.8 -72.6 125.0 -10.0 -99.2 -20.1 4,618.9 -16.0 -29.6

Palladium 999

250

950

36,486

29,147

500

37

1,746

Total

36,773 30,895 3,218,274 2,265,625

1,709

-5,878 -952,649

Hallmarking figures showed a further serious decline in the second quarter with total volumes down 29.6 per cent – 950,000 units less than 2010. This followed a drop of 12.6 per cent in the first quarter and reflects the combined impact of the squeeze on disposable income and the soaring metal prices, which particularly affected silver after prices rocketed to over £29 per ounce in April. Despite this, silver still represented 55 per cent of the articles hallmarked.

71

72

Events and auctions

Events 24 – 26 July JA New York Summer Show Javits Convention Center New York City, New York United States

25 – 28 August Copenhagen Jewellery Fair Bella Center Copenhagen Denmark

27 – 31 July Singapore International Jewellery Show Marina Bay Sands Singapore

26 – 30 August Tendence Messe Frankfurt Frankfurt, Germany

www.ja-newyork.com/jany/jany-summer

www.sijs.com.sg

7 – 9 August JCK Toronto Metro Toronto Convention Centre Toronto Canada www.jcktoronto.ca

7 – 9 August Pure London & Pure Spirit Olympia Grand Hall London www.purelondon.com

14 – 16 August Moda Accessories NEC Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk

www.cphjf.dk

tendence.messefrankfurt.com

28 – 30 August JAA International Jewellery Fair Sydney Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour Sydney Australia www.internationaljewelleryfair.com.au

1 – 3 September Japan Jewellery Fair Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center Tokyo, Japan

2 – 5 September Eclat de Mode Paris Porte de Versailles Paris, France www.bijorhca.com

3 – 5 September MIDORA Leipzig Leipzig Exhibition Centre Leipsic, Germany www.midora.de

4 – 7 September Autumn Fair International NEC, Birmingham www.autumnfair.com

4 – 7 September International Jewellery London Earls Court 2, London www.jewellerylondon.com

www.japanjewelleryfair.com

10 – 14 September VICENZAORO Choice Fiera di Vicenza Vicenza, Italy

2 – 4 September Times Glamour Vivanta by Taj President South Bombay India

17 – 21 September Junwex Moscow All-Russian Exhibition Centre Moscow, Russia

www.timesglamour.com

www.vicenzafiera.it

www.eng.rjexpert.ru

Auction dates 26 July Campbells Jewellery, silver, clocks and watches Worthing, West Sussex www.campbellsauctions.co.uk

10 August Bonhams Jewellery Knightsbridge, London www.bonhams.com

6 August Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone, Kent

23 August A F Brock & Company Limited Jewellery, watches and silverware Hazel Grove, Stockport Cheshire

10 September Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone Kent

9 August Dreweatts 1759 Jewellery, silver, watches and coins Bristol www.dnfa.com

www.afbrock.co.uk

6 September Campbells Jewellery, silver, clocks and watches Worthing, West Sussex www.campbellsauctions.co.uk

20 – 23 September Costume Jewellery and Accessories Salon Manezh Exhibition Complex Moscow, Russia

www.gifts-expo.com/eng/salons/3.html

23 September Wellers Auctioneers Pawnbroker and secondhand jewellery Chertsey, Surrey

9 September Wellers Auctioneers Jewellery, watches, silver and clocks Chertsey Surrey

www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

www.jewellerynetasia.com/en/fairs.html

21 September Bonhams Fine jewellery New Bond Street, London

20 August Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Antiques and fine arts, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone Kent www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

19 – 23 & 21 – 25 September September Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair AsiaWorld-Expo & Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre Hong Kong

8 September Bonhams Jewellery and silver Edinburgh

www.bonhams.com

5 August Wellers Auctioneers Jewellery, watches, silver and clocks Chertsey Surrey www.wellersauctions.com

www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk

20 September Capes Dunn Antique jewellery, silver, watches, wares and coins Manchester

29 July Jacobs & Hunt Silver and jewellery Petersfield, Hampshire

www.wellersauctions.com

18 – 19 September Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn SECC Glasgow

7 September Bonhams Jewellery Knightsbridge London

19 August Wellers Auctioneers Pawnbroker and secondhand jewellery Chertsey, Surrey

www.jacobsandhunt.com

IJL

www.bonhams.com

www.wellersauctions.com

www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

13 September Bonhams Jewellery Oxford

www.bonhams.com

www.capesdunn.com

www.bonhams.com

www.wellersauctions.com

24 September Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone Kent www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

4 October Dreweatts 1759 Jewellery, silver, watches and coins Bristol www.dnfa.com

21 – 25 September Portojóia Porto International Fair Oporto Portugal www.portojoia.exponor.pt

30 September – 3 October INTERGEM Messe Idar-Oberstein Idar-Oberstein Germany www.intergem-messe.de

7 – 10 October Malaysia Jewellery Festival Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre Kuala Lumpur Malaya www.mij.com.my/MJF

7 October Wellers Auctioneers Jewellery, watches, silver and clocks Chertsey Surrey www.wellersauctions.com

8 October Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone Kent www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

18 October Campbells Jewellery, silver, clocks and watches Worthing West Sussex www.campbellsauctions.co.uk

74

Directory

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BARCODING, LABELLING & PRINTING

ANTIQUE Jewellery Enthusiasts

BARCODING, LABELLING & PRINTING

BEADS ANTIQUE Jewellery Enthusiasts

Totally Wholesale Burhouse Beads is the UK’s largest wholesale supplier of gemstones, jewellery findings and components.

Specialising in fresh water pearls and high quality bead strings. We also offer a full range of associated hardware and tools.

Visit: www.burhousebeads.co.uk Burhouse Beads, Quarmby Mills, Tanyard Road, Oakes, Huddersfield West Yorkshire, England HD3 4YP Tel: +44 (0)1484 485100 Fax: 44 (0)1484 462696 Email: sales@burhousebeads.com

ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS

BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING

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ROEDER HOUSE, VALE ROAD LONDON N4 1QA EMAIL: info@justbros.co.uk WEB: www.justbros.co.uk Tel: 020 8880 2505 - Fax: 020 8802 0062

ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING PACKAGING STOCKISTS PRESENTATION CASES BOXES POUCHES WINDOW DISPLAY BESPOKE PACKAGING SUNDRIES TICKETS ARCHCROWN TAGS CARRIER BAGS LIGHTWEIGHT STOCK TRAYS

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Fashion Jewellery

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JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

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RM Weare

& Company Ltd.

Britain’s Premier Gemstone Source

P.O.Box 9, York, YO30 4QW, ENGLAND Tel: 01904 693933 - Fax: 01904 693303 Web: www.rmweare.com E-Mail: gemstones@rmweare.com

JEWELLERY EQUIPMENT

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SCRAP PURCHASE

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Full shop refurbishment service Unique hardwood points of sale Fabulous lighting Bespoke display cabinets Watts Design, Barnstaple, Devon EX31 4EN Tel: 0844 5611932 or 01598 710215 Email: info@wattsdesign.co.uk www.wattsdesign.co.uk SIGNET RINGS

Repair Services Is your Rolex watch bracelet stretched and worn?

bqw rolex specialist

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We now specialise in the repair and refurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets

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Your Views

Voice

onthe

highstreet

John Cussell of John Cussell, Grantham

You’re celebrating 32 years in jewellery retail this year – how did you first become involved in the trade? Could you tell us a bit about the shop’s history?

Silversmithing is a very special skill. There are very few smiths like myself running a workshop as part of a retail business. I am indebted to my school metalwork master, a Mr A Westcott, who saw I had potential in this field and asked if I’d ever thought of being a silversmith. This was the beginning of an amazing career and adventure.

I initially spent a year at the Central School of Art and Crafts (now Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design), and in 1962 received a five-year apprenticeship under Alf Rose at ecclesiastical silversmith Hirst Franklin. I then moved on to the workshop of Stuart Devlin, where by this time I was myself instructing an apprentice. In the early 1970s I set up a small workshop in Spain with my wife-tobe Jenni West. On my return, I worked for a brief spell for Michael Driver, before moving out of London and setting up a workshop in Grantham. My big break came in 1977 when I was commissioned by the Lincoln Cathedral Fabric Fund to design and produce a limited edition range of silver cups based on an Elizabethan chalice dated to 1569. Two hundred cups were produced and sold within six months.

It wasn’t too long before the thought of having a shop as well as a workshop seemed to be a great idea, and so we opened a fairly small shop. When larger premises became

available in 1995, we moved there and became John Cussell’s. My most prestigious commission to date has been the De Beers Trophy, which was made in collaboration with designer Mary Dean of London and presented by Her Majesty the Queen to the winner of the King George VI and Queen Elizabeth Diamond Stakes at Ascot in 1996.

In addition to large scale commissions, I have an extensive portfolio of jewellery commissioned by my customers over the years, which ranges from simple silver stock pins to brooches, pendants and large diamond rings. In the initial stages of undertaking a commission, I spend time speaking with the customer in our consultation area. This is an organic process, and – although the customer may come in with an image of what they want – after discussions, the finished design is sometimes different.

In 2008, John Cussell’s was awarded Independent Retailer of the Year at the Grantham Journal Business Awards. Our success over the years is not only due to the wide range of jewellery that I can source, but is also testimony to the great service we provide, and having extremely knowledgeable and helpful staff (of which we now employ seven). Each week we hold a staff meeting with two senior members of the team, and also have a full staff meeting every month. This gives an opportunity for everyone to share thoughts, ideas and problems and celebrate our successes in order to move the shop forward.



81

82

Your Views

What’s selling well at the moment? Are you noticing any clear buying trends?

At the moment, branded designs are selling well. We stock Chamilia, Coeur de Lion, Nomination and Unique. The jewellery shop has changed quite radically in the last five years. With my history of working in gold and silver, I found the shift of retailing jewellery other than in precious metals quite alien – the days of wearing heavy gold chains are long since gone!

Though we can cater for all tastes, some of our customers are not so concerned with gold and diamonds etc – they enjoy and want to buy colourful, exciting, bold jewellery.

Buying trends are definitely changing. Men’s jewellery is also taking off – again, this is now in stainless steel and leather, which is being made into extremely wearable pieces.

You don’t currently have an online shop – are there any plans to establish one in the future?

This is something that we are working towards. It’s obviously the way forward, and a lot of businesses have moved into this next phase of their development. However there is nothing to replace actually handling a piece of jewellery and trying it on. We do have a website, which we are proud of – it’s a bit different to most others, but it does give a flavour of the kind of shop and people we are.

You pride yourself on your sustainability and use of ethicallysourced materials. What steps do you take to ensure your impact on the environment is minimal, and what advice would you give to other jewellers who wish to follow suit?

All the diamonds we use are conflict free. We have been conscious of ‘blood diamonds’ for a long time; long before the issue was highlighted by a documentary film.

In the shop and workshop we prioritise recycling; the sourcing of and respect for materials; and the use of sustainable sources of power. Most of the shop’s lighting is low voltage, and we are now exploring the use of diode lighting. Aware of the cost to the environment through power generation, in 2003 we were also one of the first companies to sign up to Green Energy Plc, where we now have ambassador shareholder status. This means that 100 per cent of our power comes from renewable sources.

All plastics and cardboard are recycled, and we rescue all gold and silver filings from the skin and on the floor.

In 2009, we also replaced all oil-based plastic bags with paper packaging. Following on from Anita Roddick’s (the Body Shop) policy to educate on environmental issues,

Jenni designed the bags incorporating a Native American saying: “We do not inherit the earth; we borrow it from our children.” Something we all need to keep in mind!

Do you enjoy trading in Grantham? Is it a good place to do business?

I was one of the founder members of the Grantham Business Club, and am actively involved in local business associations, taking part in discussions with the council on issues that involve independent retailers within the town. In this climate of recession, we are seeing many small shops closing all over the country, so it is important to join and have a voice in your local business club.

Grantham is a small market town, and it has proved a good choice to have settled and set up a business in. We now have an extremely wide clientele, with customers not only coming from the locality, but also young people who moved away to university etc coming back to us for their engagement and wedding rings. We are probably now on second generation rings! We also have clients in as far-flung places as London, Edinburgh, Australia and the United States.

What advice would you give to young designers hoping to follow in your footsteps? Is it a tougher market now than when you were starting out?

Due to the lack of availability of apprenticeship places, it is difficult these days for young craftsmen and -women to gain trade experience. Although college and degree courses serve a purpose, they don’t have the grounding or scope of work that an apprenticeship would give. The wealth of knowledge and experience that can be gained from working alongside and talking to experienced craftsmen is immeasurable.

My advice to a young designer is to not give up at the first hurdle. If you are producing well-designed, quality items then word-of-mouth is one of the best adverts.

What are your plans for the future?

Future plans are firstly to explore online sales and to refresh our website. By Christmas, we also hope to have revamped our window displays, which, although at first sight might look good, are becoming worn. Interior-wise, we need to build some new display cabinets and revamp our counter sales area.

Jenni and I would also like to sell more jewellery designed and made in the UK. We have a wide spectrum of jewellery and can cater for most pockets, but to feature jewellery designed and made here would be another niche market.

Finally, as far as ethically-sourced materials are concerned, we want to look into ethically-sourced gold.