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MARK WAHLBERG’S30-MINUTEBULK-UPPLAN

p48

10

OCT 2016

OCT 2016 £3.99

BEST BODY NOW! Build Your

ADVENTURE CAPITAL: HOW TO SWAP THE OFFICE FOR THE OPEN ROAD P72

Burn Fat Fast Sculpt Hard Lean Muscle Get Fit For Life PO ST BR EX IT RE PO RT

MAN 3.0 THE STATE

WE’RE IN

60

SECONDS TO BULLETPROOF YOUR HEART MARK WAHLBERG, 45, HARDEST WORKING MAN IN HOLLYWOOD

p64

9 771356 743132

THE

ARMS ABS ISSUE

GET AN 8-PACK IN JUST 1 MOVE ADD 15CM TO YOURBICEPS 9 FOODS THAT MELT FLAB!

BOOST

BRAIN POWER T THE GYM 43 BEST TOYS IN ITNESS Retail Theerapy For Gearheads


FITNESS

HEALTH

P41 THE REST IS HISTORY

P38 START PULLING YOUR WEIGHT

P26 RUNNING MEMORY

Why alternating your workouts with lazy sofa days hits snooze on your physique

New gym classes are taking calisthenics off the streets. Do structured lessons hold up?

How some well-timed exercise after a hard 9-5 will pump up your powers of recall

P42 TRAIN LIKE A BEAST

P57 FIT IN 60 SECONDS

P37 THE CONS OF PROS

MH visits Monster Gym, where Olympians squat alongside Hollywood action heroes

Lengthy cardio workouts burn more time than they do calories. It’s time to HIIT back

Overspending on ‘gut-friendly’ yoghurts? This research may prove hard to swallow...

P106 PLATE UP MORE MUSCLE

P109 STRIPPED-BACK CARDIO

P64 WHO IS MAN IN 2016?

Shrug off complex fitness kit – a weight plate is all you need for extra lashings of strength

The barefoot trend is back. This is how to enjoy the mobility gains without the pains

We took the pulse of your health, hopes and happiness to help you achieve more of all

WEIGHTLOSS

STYLE

NUTRITION

P33 SNACK BATTLE

P121 A FORMAL RE-EDUCATION

P34 COOL YOUR BEANS

Does fruit’s vitamin hit outplay nuts’ healthy fats? It’s crunch time for your elevenses

Dressing up has had a dressing down. Here are the relaxed rules of modern tailoring

Cold-brew coffee boasts more than just hipster-health kudos. Time to chill your buzz

P45 IS YOUR HOUSE A FAT TRAP?

P130 BREAK THE LAWS OF TIME

P46 BUCKETS OF BENEFIT

Common chemicals in household items are fattening you up. Oust them immediately

Our watch expert tells you how to flaunt the age-old timepiece tenets for an updated look

Chuck excess body fat in the fryer with our finger-lickin’ fried chicken upgrades

P61 HEAT UP YOUR METABOLISM

P133 NEW KIDS ON THE ROW

P86 THE SUPERMARKET SWINDLE

Altitude advocates – come back to earth! Warm training is the way to burn calories

A fresh crop of British designers are giving Savile Row a much-needed modern edge

MH investigates the confusing business of meat labelling. Stock up on knowledge

10 MEN’S HEALTH

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

(MODEL COVER) MODEL: JACK JEFFERSON AT SVL | GROOMING: SUSANA MOTA | STYLING: ABENA OFEI | SWEATPANTS BURBERRY BRIT AT MRPORTER.COM

10/16 THE ARMS & ABS ISSUE

MUSCLE


IN THIS ISSUE SOLID INVESTMENTS FOR MORE HEALTH CAPITAL

TH£ £CONO MIC$ OF ADV£ NTUR £

ON THE COVER P25 THE ONE-MOVE 8-PACK Our slo-mo calisthenics move is simple to master but no less ruthless for carving your core

P72 ADVENTURE ECONOMICS Our guide to swapping the rat race for an epic life, by three men who prove it’s possible

P78 BEST TOYS IN FITNESS P31 BULK UP YOUR BICEPS Wring more muscle from every rep with our expert guide to the science of size

P48 WAHLBERG’S WORKOUT How the actor, producer and entrepreneur fits more into every day than he has right to

P58 FOODS THAT MELT FAT Cut excess weight – along with your PB – with the new standouts of clean nutrition

All you need to build a dream home gym (whatever your budget) and start using it

WAHLBERG COVER PHOTOGRAPHY ART STREIBER

P110 GYM BRAIN-BOOSTERS

MODEL COVER PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID VENNI

Get big and clever with a lunchtime workout that sharpens body and mind


THE EXPERT PANEL GET TIME FIRMLY ON YOUR SIDE THIS MONTH. HERE ARE SOME OF THE SPECIALISTS MAXIMISING YOUR MINUTES

EDITOR

TOBY WISEMAN DEPUTY EDITOR

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

PHOTO DIRECTOR

DAVID MORTON

DECLAN FAHY

RACHAEL CLARK

STYLE DIRECTOR

PRODUCTION EDITOR

DIGITAL DIRECTOR

ERIC DOWN

SCARLETT WRENCH

ED VANSTONE

FEATURES EDITOR

ART DIRECTOR

ASSOCIATE EDITOR (STYLE)

TOM WARD

TOM PLUMSTEAD

MATT HAMBLY

COMMISSIONING EDITOR (PRINT & DIGITAL)

SENIOR DESIGNER

TED LANE

JESSICA WEBB

STYLE ASSISTANT

JUNIOR FITNESS EDITOR

SUBEDITOR

RICCARDO CHIUDIONI

JACK HART

AARON TOUMAZOU

BREAK FREE

ON YOUR MARKS

HOT OFF THE PRESS

DIGITAL EDITOR

ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR

SEAN CONWAY

BRIAN NGUYEN

GREG WHYTE

ROBERT HICKS

MATT EVANS

Is a career in exploration viable in 2016? Adventurer and ‘ultimate triathlete’ Conway explains how to make it work for you p72

Transform your body with a leading man’s fitness plan, care of Mark Wahlberg’s longtime personal trainer p48

Exercise scientist Prof Whyte puts brain to brawn to demonstrate how best to pump up your w g g ggame p31 weightlifting p

BUYER’S GUIDANCE

LIQUID ASSETS

A WOD TO THEE WISE

LIZ TUCKER

HENRY DUNMORE

KEMOO MARRIOTT O T

Leave spurious marketing buzzwords in the bargain bin with advice from Select Food’s nutritional advisor, Tucker p86

Prep Natural Fitness Food founder Dunmore’s protein-packed recipe to raise the shakes on your post-gym fuel p115

Holistic Motions founder Marriott’s combination of compound lifts and bodyweight moves trigger gains and brains p110

GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR SALES DIRECTOR BRAND DIRECTOR SENIOR FASHION EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT MANAGER ACCOUNT MANAGER GROUP CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR SENIOR PARTNERSHIPS EXECUTIVE CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS ART DIRECTOR CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS ART EDITOR SENIOR PROJECT MANAGER PROJECT MANAGER PRODUCTION MANAGER HEAD OF MARKETING MARKETING AND EVENTS EXECUTIVE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MANAGER OFFICE MANAGER AND EVENTS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS PR MANAGER CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER MARKETING AND CIRCULATION DIRECTOR MANAGING DIRECTOR, BRANDS

ALUN WILLIAMS GEORGINA PARROTT TOM LAKE TOM SPRATT NATASHA BAILEY MELANIE MCKINLAY ANDREA SULLIVAN MORGAN HARRISON-DOYLE JASON MILTON-BARKER BEN BRILEY AOIFE KAVANAGH VICTORIA STEPHEN KATHRYN TAIT ROGER BILSLAND JANE SHACKLETON MEG STEPHENSON MARK PEACOCK MEGAN BLACKBURN LISA QUINN BEN BOLTON DARREN GOLDSBY REID HOLLAND MICHAEL ROWLEY

THIS ISSUE IS BROUGHT TO YOU BY… 16 STYLE AUTHORITIES

2 ECONOMIC ANALYSTS

12 PERSONAL TRAINERS

1 DERMATOLOGIST

8 NUTRITIONISTS

1 SPORTS SCIENTIST

5 MASTER BARBERS

1 HARVARD PROFESSOR

4 TOP SPORTSMEN

1 INVESTIGATIVE JOURNALIST

4 PROFESSIONAL ADVENTURERS

1 COLD BREW ENTHUSIAST

3 HORSE RACERS

AND 1 FORMER ROYAL MARINE SNIPER

TOTAL

60 EXPERTS

12 MEN’S HEALTH

CEO, HEARST MAGAZINES UK

ANNA JONES HEARST-RODALE JOINT BOARD OF DIRECTORS PRESIDENT AND CEO, HEARST MAGAZINES INTERNATIONAL

ANNA JONES CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER, HEARST MAGAZINES UK

CLAIRE BLUNT SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, RODALE INTERNATIONAL

ROBERT NOVICK MEN’S HEALTH IS PUBLISHED IN THE UK BY HEARST RODALE LIMITED, A JOINT VENTURE BY HEARST MAGAZINES UK, A WHOLLY OWNED SUBSIDIARY OF THE HEARST CORPORATION, AND RODALE INTERNATIONAL, A DIVISION OF RODALE INC. MEN’S HEALTH IS A TRADEMARK OF, AND IS USED UNDER LICENCE FROM, RODALE INC. HEARST RODALE LTD, 33 BROADWICK STREET, LONDON W1F 0DQ. TEL: 020 7312 3800. FAX: 020 7339 4444. RODALE’S MEN’S HEALTH (ISSN 1356-7438). COPYRIGHT © 2015. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. MEN’S HEALTH IS PRINTED AND BOUND BY WYNDEHAM HERON, THE BENTALL COMPLEX, COLCHESTER ROAD, HEYBRIDGE, MALDON, ESSEX CM9 4NW. DISTRIBUTION BY COMAG. PUBLISHED 11 TIMES A YEAR. CONDITIONS APPLY. FOR ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION RATES, PLEASE CALL OUR ENQUIRY LINE ON 0844 848 1601, INTERNATIONAL +44 (0)1858 438794. BACK ISSUES, CUSTOMER ENQUIRIES, CHANGE OF ADDRESS AND ORDERS TO: MEN’S HEALTH, HEARST MAGAZINES UK, TOWER HOUSE, SOVEREIGN PARK, LATHKILL STREET, MARKET HARBOROUGH, LEICS LE16 9EF (0844 848 5203; MONDAY TO FRIDAY, 8AM-9.30PM AND SATURDAY, 8AM-4PM. CREDIT CARD HOTLINE: 0844 848 1601). MEN’S HEALTH, ISSN 1356-7438, IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY, 11 TIMES PER YEAR BY HEARST RODALE LIMITED. C/O DISTRIBUTION GRID. AT 900 CASTLE RD SECAUCUS, NJ 07094, USA. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT SECAUCUS, NJ. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO MEN’S HEALTH C/O EXPRESS MAG, PO BOX 2769, PLATTSBURGH, NY 12901-0239


EDITOR’S LETTER BUSY? DON’T COUNT THE HOURS – MAKE THEM COUNT PAGE

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PA AGE G

We surveyed our readers to help you settle your key concerns – fitness, family and financial – at every stage of life

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Blitz your macros with our precisionengineered shake recipe

PAGE

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Follow our buyer’s guide to construct your own gym on any budget. Fitness starts at home...

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92

Can two legs ever be better than four? MH tackles a marathon unlike any other

PAGE

86

We dive into the murky world of food regulation to find out what’s really in your shopping basket

A SOLID ADVICE TO MARK YOU OUT FROM THE MASSES

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

s I write this, the day we go to press, I am feeling tired. Pretty damn knackered, truth be told. The magazine and its myriad offshoots have been working us hard of late (I hope you appreciate the effort), plus there’s the commute, my insomnia, the forever vacillating mind… Sorry, is my self-pity grating enough yet? If your name is Mark Wahlberg then the answer to that is an incontrovertible ‘yes’. Reading his cover interview (p48), with notable reference to his tenacious drive and work ethic, is – depending on your demeanour at the time – either awe-inspiring or downright exhausting. For example, Wahlberg invariably works long days, too. But he doesn’t let that impede his work-life balance; he simply crams more life around work. So when you and I are in bed – a good hour before the first shipping forecast – Wahlberg is in the gym giving it both barrels. He likes to get his workouts in early because, naturally, it’s important he can then enjoy a quick round of golf

Formalwear has had a dressing down. Here are the new rules of looking smart, but never stuffy

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before the kids go to school. Next, there’s food prep to be done, as well as catching up with the wife – these things are also important – before his focus is redirected on the busy day ahead. This might include anything from shooting a blockbuster, to overseeing the expansion of his Wahlburgers chain (yes, really), to staking a claim in a new supps start-up. Sometimes it’s all of the above. Evidently, this is not a man who wastes much time watching catch-up. On reflection, I’m going to choose inspiration over exhaustion. At 45, Mark Wahlberg is five years older than me but makes me sound geriatric. By the time I wake up he’s burned more calories than I will have done by my day’s end. And yet, crucially, he somehow manages to see more of his family than I have managed this past fortnight. When you look at it like that, there’s really no choice to be made. Exhaustion is for wimps.

TOBY WISEMAN BSME EDITOR OF THE YEAR MEN’S HEALTH 15


ASK MH NAIL DOWN THE FACTS ON HEALTH STICKING POINTS THE BIG QUESTION

ALTER YOUR STANCE TO KEEP YOUR MOBILITY ON POINT

Q EVERYONE IS

SAYING I SHOULD STAND UP AT WORK. ARE DESK JOBS REALLY THAT HARMFUL?

STAND AND DELIVER Use Dr Starrett’s tips for staying on your toes without the pitfalls

*TEXAS A&M HEALTH SCIENCE CENTER | WORDS: ALEX HARRIS

TOM, THEYDON BOIS

While the scientific forum likes to plays musical chairs with this debate, we’ll stand firm. Yes, too long idling on your rump could lead to a discounted reservation at the horizontal Hilton. But “sitting is the new smoking” is a glib phrase that needs to stop now. The truth of the matter is, as ever, more nuanced. Prolonged repose is bad. But so is relentless standing – just ask anyone with one of those new-fangled Varidesks how their knees are doing today.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

“If you’re standing still, that’s slightly better than sitting – but you’re still not moving,” says Dr Kelly Starrett, author of Deskbound. So while we wholeheartedly endorse the idea of spending as much time on your feet as your bottom (not least for the reported 46% productivity boost*), a more effective approach is to seek regular movement. After all, much of the trouble that comes with being parked for too long manifests in the form of cardiovascular and blood sugar damage, which researchers in Australia argue is easily combatted with regular two-minute breaks. So sit less, for sure. But more importantly, move more – no matter your position.

1) TAKE A STEP DOWN Flat shoes – meaning zero differential between toe and heel – make a huge difference. A lot of foot problems could easily be remedied by this: bunions, plantar fasciitis, the lot. 2) FIND YOUR FLOW You should be able to go from a walk to a run without awkwardly waddling like a duck. If you have to ‘correct’ your feet to run, practise standing with your feet straight all day. 3) RAISE THE BAR You know that foot rail under the bar at the pub? Putting your foot up takes the load out of your back, so you stand straighter. Try to put your foot up on something at work, too.

MEN’S HEALTH 17


ASK MH LET US FEED YOUR MIND DOES IT WORK?

Q

I THINK I’M ADDICTED TO VAPING. THAT’S FIN NE, RIGHT?

PHIL, ESSEX Where there’s smoke, there’s fire for your there’ss vapour... vapo well, we lungs. But where there just don’t know yet. If you’ve made the switch from cigarettes then, yes, your lung health will improve. But if you’re still struggling with cravings, things are a little hazy: a recent study in The Lancet suggests vaping could reduce smokers’ odds of quitting for good by 28%. It’s likely you’ve just swapped one fixation for another. Whether or not that’s a cause for celebration, we’ll reserve judgement.

Q

Q

IS SKIPPING BREAKFAST ALWAYS A NUTRITIONAL FAUX PAS? KIERAN, SOUTHAMPTON

AM I NORMAL?

Q

WILL I MAKE A GOOD DAD?

SPENCER, BRISTOL

18 MEN’S HEALTH

DON’T SETTLE FOR CEREAL. START YOUR DAY SUNNY-SIDE UP

No. The idea that heading to work on an empty stomach is health hara-kiri is one hatched by cereal marketeers. “Your body should always have enough fuel in store to carry you through to lunch,” says nutritionist Dr Mike Roussell. “In fact, I encourage my clients to skip meals every so often, so they learn to deal with hunger. Consider it a willpower workout.” To be clear, a healthy breakfast is a very good thing. But necking a bowl of Sucrose Puffs under duress is considerably worse than nothing. You don’t need to gen up on your Freud to know we’re all products of our parents. But with University of Maryland research suggesting that, on average, new dads spend a mere seven hours a week with their offspring, your window of influence is tight. Perhaps you have designs on siring a sporting dynasty or child genius. Either way, the secret isn’t finding more time; it’s making better use of the time you have. So…

IAIN, PULBOROUGH Repping out your T-shirt muscles is all well and good , but without strong shoulders you’re just adding masonry to a sand castle. Weak shoulders are sadly common to office workers, with hunched posture and repetitive strain leading to tenseness and poor mobility. The trick is to introduce moves that employ a full range of motion to your workout. And as an Olympic swimmer, Ryan Lochte knows a fair bit about such moves: “To strengthen my shoulders I do ‘I’, ‘Y’ and ‘T’ raises: three sets of 10. Hold some dumbbells, leaning forward slightly, back straight. Raise your arms straight up [I], at 30 degrees [Y], then out to the sides [T].” Shoulder the burden like a champ.

i/ READ LIKE YOU MEAN IT

ii/ NO SLEEP UNTIL BEDTIME

iii/ JUMP IN AT THE DEEP END

iv/ STACK THE SHELVES

You may be sick and tired by your 297th reading of The Very Hungry Caterpillar, but your kids aren’t. And they’ll be better off if you suck it up and get into the story, suggests a Boston Uni study. Reading in an ‘engaging voice’ promotes literacy and language development.

Tucking in the kids at inconsistent times could hamper their cognitive progress. UK researchers tracked nearly 10,000 children and linked irregular bedtimes at age three to lower scores in both maths and reading tests by age seven.

The shallow end of life is brief; after that things get deep really fast. No wonder a study conducted by Australian scientists found that children who learned to swim at a younger age tended to be more physically and mentally advanced than their peers.

A crammed bookshelf can translate to an intellectual boost – regardless of whether the books have been read. Having 500 or more books in the home has been found to be as great an advantage for a kid as having universityeducated parents.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

PHOTOGRAPHY: JOBE LAWRENSON (PREVIOUS) MICHAEL HEDGE (THIS PAGE) | FOOD STYLIST: TAMARA VOS | CHAIR MADE.COM

I’M STRONG, BUT RUBBISH AT OVERHEAD LIFTS. WHAT’S UP?


EDITED BY TED LANE

4 BESPOKE B E C CARDIO O P G 288 PAGE

15 SCRUB OUT YOUR LOVE HANDLES PAGE 45

10 WHAT’S REALLY

IN YOUR SUPPS? PAGE 37

8 DRINK K IT SLIM M PAGE G 34

SCIENCE 6 BULK PAGE 31

K C A P X I S ORTCUTS S

016 2 R E B OCTO 1

E FINAL 133 THE BLOW FOR

REST S DAYS S PAGE G 41

HOLD ON FOR AN 8-PACK PAGE 25

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MEN’S M ’S HEALTH 23


01 STRIKE A BAR-GAIN

GET NEGATIVE GAINS

Reverse the reps and pump the breaks on bad form to send new muscle growth through the roof. The ECCENTRIC MUSCLE-UP lowers the bar for achieving total calisthenics mastery

01 FROM THE TOP

02 KEEP IT TIGHT

Jump up above a straight bar with arms extended. Keep your core braced and your legs straight out beneath yo you as you y prepare to slowly p l l lower down.. l

As you lower into a dip, don’t let your elbows flare out. They should remain close to your chest for growthh in your arms and shoulders. d shoulde s And d tidyy form, of course.

o paraphrase the Super Furry Animals, gravity has a knack of holding you back. Even so, it’s also your best gym-buddy for a ripped torso. The eccentric muscleup – so-called because of the focus on the lowering phase – overloads your triceps, shoulders and core, increasing their rate of protein synthesis. Which is a fancy way of saying the longer you take over each rep, the better for your body. Why so negative? Well, not only does this muiti-stage move build muscle, it strengthens the areas needed to perform the same move in reverse: the revered muscle-up. “Eccentric moves are fundamental to learning the transition,” says y calisthenics a e ca alisthenics coach Darren alistheni n j we. “It reinforces muscles On nyejekwe tthrrroughou u ut the entire range off mo o otion, off ff ffering greater control.” An nd that m means when you finally ach h hieve the full muscle-up, y you’ll do o so w with mo ore g grace. Aim to perform p ov v five fi seconds for f a true eaccch rep ver mu u uscle hit. Just remember to hold on ttight g – tthis is falling with style.

A

T

WHAT YOU’LL GAIN

G T GYMNAST A ABS

V-SHAPED S BACK CK

WORDS: JACK HART | PHOTOGRAPHY: PHIL HAYNES | MODEL: JAMES STARK AT W MODELS STYLING: DAISY DEANE | GROOMIING: SABINE CHAMMAS | JOGGING BOTTOMS NIKE, KE, E, TRAINERS NEW BALANCE

PARK WORKOUT O O T PARTY-PIECE

03 HIT HI IT THE TH T HE BRAKES B

THE BESST E XERCISSEE EX YO YOU’RE NOT DOINGG MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

Lean back and slowlyy L lift your legs parallel ground. Aim to tto the g keep the back of your hands facing f g upward. T This ‘false grip’ will iincrease the h pressure on yyour fforearms.

4 L W LOW WE WER ER D DOW WN N Straigh S g ten out y arm your ms m to lower l y booodyy down into your a dead hhang, with your s ghtt legs straight l g out ut in an L-sit i position. p ii F l g the Feeling h strain? Good. Now do it again. MEN’S HEALTH 25


A

10

11

THINK ON YOUR FEET

MEMORY GAINS

BRAIN TRAINING ON THE ROAD For a sharper mind and increased mental performance, cardio is a proven benefactor. But for best results, good timing is everything

W

aking up, lacing up and pounding the pavements before breakfast is a proven way to jump-start your metabolism for the day. But if your aspirations are to stay mentally fit, then recent research suggests a judiciously timed post-work run fits the bill. The connection between body and brain is well established: when you exercise, chemical compounds like norepinephrine and dopamine are released, stimulating the hippocampus and enhancing your

MIND NEWSFEED 10/16

neural activity. It’s probably the reason you stumbled across your last big idea while out running. But now a Current Biology study suggests that, if the time and conditions are right, cardio can help you set a new memory PB. Wait four hours after a learning task (such as a brainstorming creative session at work) before exercising and research shows that your hippocampus will glow white-hot with memory-boosting activity. The applications of this are two-fold. In the short term, an evening run can help lock in the main points of the next day’s presentation. In the longer term, regular post-work cardio can help you outrun cognitive decline in later life. Either way, it seems that playing the exercise waiting game is your wisest choice.

RECONSTRUCT YOUR ROUTINE TO BUILD UP NEW BRAINPOWER

THE MINUTE DETAILS Maximise your memory in the time between lessons learned and calories burned

26 MEN’S HEALTH

17:00

18:00

19:00

20:00

IN THE ZONE

PHONE A FRIEND

FIBRE UPTICKS

MINT CONDITION

Regular joe boosts memory consolidation, but time it right. Drinking caffeine much after 4pm risks disrupting brain-enhancing sleep. Nature Neuroscience

Stress triggers Alzheimer’s, so take the sting out of rushhour by wearing headphones – it’s proven to make crowds less traumatic. Royal Holloway

A quick call to make plans with pals saves grey matter. Men with active social lives have the slowest rate of memory decline. Harvard School of Public Health

Eating a highfibre diet rich in nuts and beans reduces the risk of mild cognitive impairment that can lead to Alzheimer’s. Rush University Medical Center

Chewing gum as you warm up raises your heart rate, delivering more oxygen to your brain and enhancing cognitive power. University of Northumbria

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

WORDS: TED LANE | PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES

16:00

CAFE NEURO


THE BEST RIDES FOR BESPOKE FITNESS

MH LAB R ROAD B S BIKES

Don’t let the rusty frame in your shed slam the brakes on your cardio ambitions. Get a handle on your goals with five of the best road bikes

C

28 MEN’S HEALTH

WORK HORSE

8/10

Genesis Croix de Fer 20 £1200 Speed Weight Style Comfort Price

••••••• ••••• ••••••••• •••••••••• •••••••••

BEAT THE BUS A good commuter

bike needs to get you from A to B – via bus lanes and pedestrians – in one piece. Which means quality brakes. The Croix’s combination of both high-end hydraulics and cost-saving cables helps you avoid careless drivers and crashing your bank account. EXPERT VERDICT A heavier steel frame dampens road buzz, which makes this perfect for everyday riding. Stylish, skinnier tubes will deflect any ‘all the gear, no idea’ jibes from colleagues that may be warranted if riding a carbon bike in your brogues.

STREET CRED

7/10

Condor Leggero £2500 Speed Weight Style Comfort Price

•••••••• ••••••••• ••••••••• •••••••• •••••

YELLOW SUITS YOU Light and fast, the Leggero’s dropletshaped tubes slice through wind, improving aerodynamic flow and saving watts. The nano carbon tech makes it superstiff for a responsive ride that jumps forward the second you put power through the pedals. EXPERT VERDICT This is your chance to build the perfect bike from the ground up because – hold on to your wallet – the price is for frame only. It’s bike nerd Nirvana, if you’re willing to risk it out on the roads, that is.

WORDS: TED LANE | PHOTTOGGRA RAPPHY HHY: YY: GUTTERPEC CREDIT AGATA AT HEARST STU TUDIOS IOOSS

ycling is something we Brits do pretty damn well. Whether demolishing the peloton en route to Paris, or burning rubber in a Brazilian velodrome, it has become a modern national pastime – one the old mountain bike in your garage is excluding you from. But there’s more to it than simply pulling on a metaphorical maillot jaune. Regular cycling is a speedy way to puncture health risks and send your weightloss into freewheel. Not only did the Journal of Clinical and Diagnostic Research find that pedal power enhances cognitive performance and sharpens memory, one study published in The Lancet also found men who regularly cycle to work weigh an average of 5kg less than those who drive. And so, whether you’re looking to join next year’s Étape du Tour, lose your spare tyre or simply can’t handle another commute on a crowded bus, it’s time for an upgrade. Spokes-man Rob Hoyles of Cycling Weekly gives you the Grand Tour of new bikes that are anything but middle-of-the-road.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK


TEAM PLAYER

04

05

REINVENT THE WHEEL

KING COMMUTE

A

9/10

Giant Propel Advanced £1600 Speed Weight Style Comfort Price

MH

WINNER

••••••••• ••••••••• •••••••• ••••••• ••••••••••

LYCRA CALLING When advancing from Sunday rider to sportive regular, you need new tech. Giant’s OverDrive steerer tube and Powercore bottom bracket boost handling and pedaling precision, to help you weave through the th race-day peloton. An ideal stiffness-to-weight stiffne ratio will spare your legs until you’ve built Giro-read Giro-ready glutes. EXPERT VERD VERDICT These wheels are quick, k while whi still being stiff enough for a C Cavendish-style sprint to the th line. At this price it’s a robbery. Good thing you yo can make a speedy getaway, then.

ALL-ROUNDER

8/10

Cannondale Slate £2500 Speed Weight Style Comfort Price

••••••• •••••••• ••••••••• •••••••• •••••••

SUSPEND BELIEF This gravel

bike is an on-trend mix of road and mountain bike, so you can stay in the cycle lane mid-week, but venture off road at the weekend – without the risk of cracked forks. Short chainstays make it agile, but the longer front-centre gives you stability to conquer more exciting terrain. EXPERT VERDICT Don’t be fooled by the gimmicky façade: the mad-looking left suspension fork works exactly the same as a duo. This crossover can handle anything you throw at it. It’s the Bear Grylls of bikes, if you will.

GIVE IT A FRESH SPIN MH’s Style Editor, Matt Hambly, shares the cardio commute apparel you’ll actually want to be seen in MINT POLOS Rapha’s essential polo shirts are made from quick-drying Japanese cotton and polyester, and are mercifully free of livery. Too good to save for cycling alone. £80 rapha.cc NO JUNK MALE Levi’s commuter range is far from a gimmick. These water-repellent jeans have a U-Lock holder and reflective cuffs. And not a lunchbox in sight. £90 levi.com

GUTTER CREDIT

PEDALO PUMPS Waterproof shoes with style cred? Where do we sign? At Geox, actually: its Amphibiox trainers use a rainproof, breathable membrane. £120 geox.com

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK A H.CO.UK ALTH.CO.UK

MEN’S HEALTH 29


06 10 YOUR BODY VOCAL SCIENCE COACH

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN…

01

IGood PUMP IRON? things come to those who lift

FIND YOUR FLOW First set gone cold? You can’t expect to hit PB-worthy reps without some prep. “Warming up redistributes blood flow to the working muscle, optimising its function,” says Professor Greg Whyte, director of the Centre for Health and Human Performance. But there’s no use doing a treadmill warm-up on chest day. Hit your target muscle with low-weight, high-rep versions of each move you plan on crushing.

weights, but not all bench presses are good presses. Use our guide to optimise your time under the barbell

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BURN OUT

LIFT THE TROPHY

It’s the age-old question: low weight and high reps or high weight and low reps? The answer: whichever you prefer. “It’s all about the mismatch between energy demand and availability,” says Whyte. “What you’re trying to do is overload the muscle to failure, and in doing that you’ll trigger growth.” If you want to win big, first you have to fail hard.

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HEAVE HAPPY WORDS: DANIEL MASOLIVER | ILLUSTRATION: PETER GRUNDY

It’s not just runners who revel in post-exercise elation; there is such a thing as a ‘lifter’s high’, too. “When we exercise we send hormones to the brain’s reward centre, which makes us feel good,” says Whyte. You can release these chemicals with as little as 10 minutes’ work, but intensity is key – the harder you push, the bigger the hormonal rush.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

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Hypertrophy – the muscle growth that occurs after your session – is the ultimate prize. “As soon as you put a load on the muscle, you’re degrading its protein structure,” says Whyte. “This triggers the hoovering up of cell debris and eventually the release of growth hormones.” So when the muscle rebuilds, it does so bigger and stronger, bro.

05

PUMP IT UP Whether or not you agree with Arnie that the pump is akin to la petite mort, those swollen muscles are many a gym bro’s raison d’être. When you use a muscle, it fills with blood. But don’t mistake short-term swell for long-term gains. “In short sessions, all you do is activate a relaxed muscle,” says Whyte. For lasting change, you need to leave it all on the gym floor. MEN’S HEALTH 31


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07 CRUNCH TIME

VERSUS FRUIT VS NUTS

BATTLE SNACKS

Fruit has traditionally tiiiona enjoyed the nutritional limelight, with ith th nuts ts maligned m by their association ociatio ciatio with saltt and an beer. Bu But co could an upset set et be in orderr?

NUTS

FRUIT VSS

57

34%

kcal kca

The h reduction r in your ri risk of heart disease d e if you eat peanuts (o (or peanut b butter) ) eve ve very day*

*BRITISH MEDICAL JOURNAL | †JO TRAVERS THELONDONNUTRITIONIST.CO.UK | WORDS: TED LANE | PHOTOGRAPHY: AGATA PEC AT HEARST STUDIOS

The nu numb mber er o off energy uni nits ts iin n eber eb erri ries es.. 100g blueb They have a lo low l w GI profile, too o

Packed into whole frui uit, fibre slows thee release of sugar into youur bloodstream eam, ea sso avoiding the spikes that are ar asso ssociated with an increased risk of diabetes†

STAR PLAYER

FIBRE

FAT AT

Poly- and monounsaturated fats award nuts th their position in the Mediterranean diet. These reduce levels of bad cholesterol to protect against heart disease and strokes

UPS & DOWNS

Lifts porridge

Quick to perish Wide variety Stains clothes

21g of sugar in a glass of orange juice Fibre in whole fruit is removed by juicing, intensifying the blood-sugar spikes that lead to insulin resistance or weight gain

Protein source

SABOTEUR

Can be pricey

Great on toast Often salted

580kcal in a 100g bag of almonds That’s double the calories of a McDonald’s cheeseburger with roughly four times the fat. You can have too much of a good thing

UNSUNG HERO

Combats cancer

Reduces heart disease risk

Slows skin ageing

GRAPEFRUIT

Fructose, the sugar in fruit, doesn’t raise levels of appetite-suppressing hormones, making second helpings hard to resist

PISTACHIOS HUNGER GAMES

University of Southern California

Supports digestion

Reduces bad LDL cholesterol

Improves circulation

The act of unshelling disrupts mindless snacking, reducing calorie intake by 59%. Shun salty bar snacks for raw varieties Eastern Illinois University

THE MH VERDICT: NUTS WIN! While the spectre of sugar has been overplayed with regard to whole fruit, they’re no match for nuts’ healthy fats. Curbing cravings, supporting muscle growth and protecting your heart, they’re the most rewarding snack to squirrel away in your desk drawer. MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

MEN’S HEALTH 33


LT H S N O B ’ S G U I D E T O.. . THE HE A

C OF F E E

Not content with average joe? The cool kids are chilling their beans and serving cold-brew. It’s time to turn down the temperature on your buzz COOLER BEANS The clue is in the name. Still, cold-brew coffee is often confused with the milky confection that is iced coffee. “It’s actually coffee brewed using cold water,” clarifies Hugh Duffie, co-founder of UK brand Sandows, inspired by Victorian bodybuilder Eugen Sandow and carrying old-school barbells on its label. Cold-brew is huge in the States and making gains over States, h here. It’s ’ also l easy to homeh b brew. First, though, h gh y you need d to give it the h right h beans. b .

i) LIGHT

ii) MEDIUM

iii) DARK

The preference of those who take their americanos black, letting you taste the coffee’s delicate notes. Light roasts also tend to be naturally sweet, disinclining you to add sugar.

While coffee fans are blinded by the light, health snobs may prefer turning to the darker side: life-extending antioxidants release as coffee beans roast. A happy medium is best of both.

Big roast taste replaces subtlety, though some antioxidants are lost. The upside: darker roasts are less acidic – as are cold brews – and so are kinder to your gut.

34 MEN’S HEALTH

In co old-brewing, heat is repla placed with an extended brew wing time (12-24 hours) so sta art the night before. T n your grinder – Hario Turn make es a quality range ( 90 hario.co.uk) – to the (£90 coarsest setting, so your brew coars isn’t cloudy when you filter it. If you’re making the effort, you may as well prep your coffee in bulk, necessitating a 750ml filter-in-a-bottle (£25 hario.co.uk). And it’s worth using decent water, given it constitutes the vast majority of your drink. “Many aficionados favour Tesco

Ashbeck,” says Duffie. “It has a good mineral content for brewing and it’s super cheap.” (45p for 2L) Duffie suggests a punchy ratio of 100g coffee to a litre of water, leaving it for 16 hours on the counter (not in the fridge) before plunging. Strain through a filter paper, and repeat until your cold-brew runs crystal-clear, then pour yourself a glass. Store the rest in a sealed container in the fridge and… chill.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

SANDOWS.COM | WORDS: JAMIE MILLAR | PHOTOGRAPHY: LOUISA PARRY GUTTER CREDITI FOOD STYLIST: VAL MCARTHUR

GE T ON YOUR GRIND


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LICENCE TO CHILL

BREW SCIENCE

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MIX IT WITH THE BEST Cold-brew Co d b ew is more versatile t than Paul Pogba. P Indeed, it’s t s known ow as ‘cocktail coffee’ Down Under, where it’s p p popular wiith bartenders, especially y in i concentrated form – and d not just because off the h late l sshifts. shif Says S y Duffie: D ffi “ “We’ve found it works with v vodka, gin, g , whisky, y tequila, mezcal…” ((Talk about tough g jobs.) While a coffee cocktail may y be a cllassy l y brunch piiick-me-up p p, this being g MH, H w we’ve also m mixed in a ffew o o no on-alcoho olic blends ffor o v g co old-brew virgins.

EXTRA COOL POINTS Frigid coffee still leaving you cold? Here are some more USPs of the new way to brew

SWEET RELIEF The slow, heatfree process makes cold-brews taste smoother and less bitter, obviating the need for milk and sugar.

WELL PRESERVED Your o coffe o ee is brewed prooperly, rather thann simply by b pouring g hot espresso over ice: a watery grave f quality roasts. for

INSTANT S T FIX OK,, so iit takes time t e to make. But once prepped, your b y batch will keep for f weeeks. Decent joe, o demand. j on

CO -SAVING COST-

GUTTER CREDIT

Cold coffee c is eassier to carry around, so you y do don’t have to resortt to pricey re hhiighh-sstreet chains.

i) SYRUP SHRUB

ii) ESPRESSO MARTINI

iii) BLOKBUSTE R SHAKE S E

iv)) COCONUT O O ICE COFFEE O E

INGREDIENTS • Cold-brew, 50ml • Balsamic vinegar, 25ml • Maple syrup, 12.5ml • Top to the brim with soda water

INGREDIENTS • Cold-brew, 25ml • Tequila, 50ml • Coffee liqueur, 10ml • Maple syrup, 10ml • Angostura bitters, dash

INGREDIENTS • Cold-brew, 200ml • Protein, scoop • A banana • Oats, scoop • Coconut milk, 100ml

INGREDIENTS • Cold-brew, 100ml • Pure coconut water, 200-300ml • Large ice cubes (for slower dilution)

METHOD Sprouting again in throwback hipster bars after withering away in the 18th century, shrubs are vinegar-based (really) cocktails, often enjoyed as an aperitif and for their medicinal properties. It isn’t a load of moonshine: balsamic blunts blood sugar spikes after meals, improves digestion and promotes satiety. It’s even healthier if, as with the recipe above, you lose the booze.

METHOD Cold-brew is a boon to bartenders for many reasons: it’s real coffee, not flavoured syrup, and doesn’t require dilution, unlike adding ice to hot java. Plus they don’t have to waste time making espressos – well, you wouldn’t ask a barista for a martini. Simply combine the ingredients, shake well and enjoy like a hopped-up James Bond.

METHOD Providing an energy boost without the sugar rush, cold-brew brands such as Sandows are increasingly being stocked at cool gyms and CrossFit boxes. This is the signature shake at tasteful east London studio Blok (bloklondon. com). Blend all the ingredients together – adding an optional spoonful of nut butter – and neck it at least an hour before your workout, or immediately after.

METHOD Cold-brew is considerably more refreshing than gulping down a piping americano on hot days. Replace even more lost sweat by adding electrolyte-rich coconut water in a 1:2 or 1:3 ratio, depending on your taste. Use concentrated coffee, because taste dilutes as the ice melts. This is a godsend after a big gym (or pub) session.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

MEN’S HEALTH 35


10

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THE PRO’S CONS

EDITOR’S PICKLES

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HEALTH NEWSFEED 10/16

THE BENEFITS OF SHOP-BOUGHT PROBIOTICS ARE THIN ON THE GROUND

QUIT YOUR BELLYACHING OVER BACTERIA Probiotic marketing sharks are feeding on your wages. Go natural for a (real) gut reaction

WORDS: TOM LING | PHOTOGRAPHY: ROWAN FEE

F

illing your fridge with ‘gut-friendly’ fromage frais might please the CGI bacteria seen during ad breaks. But your biology tells a different story. The science stating that good gut health lowers your cancer risk and speeds up metabolism is sound. However, yoghurt drinks aimed at mummies and their tummies are bloated with ersatz marketing spiel. In a study from the University of Copenhagen, scientists trialled seven different probiotic supplements and monitored the bacteria found in the participant’s entrails (presumably collected by the lab intern) for changes.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

GUT FEEDINGS Pull the probios from your basket and fill it with fermented superfoods to top up your health pension

KIMCHI And they found none. Nada. Zip. In fact, there’s no evidence these supps are any more belly-friendly than a glass of H2O. Which is a real kick in the Yakults bearing in mind the global probiotic industry is worth £20 billion. If you want to boost your intestinal health, ignore the misleading ads and return to the scientifically backed basics. Naturally fermented grub like cheese and gherkins is packed with the vitamins and enzymes your belly needs for better digestion. Get that right and your immune response, hormone regulation, protein absorption, fat-burning rate and, according to the University of Western Ontario, overall mental health will follow. Your stomach’s not just the way to your heart, after all.

Eating 100g per day will beat off viruses by boosting your immune system activity by 75%, according to Pusan National University.

SAUERKRAUT The Journal of Science found sauerkraut has all the enzymes your intestines need to absorb the muscle-building nutrients in your next steak.

KVASS By supercharging your digestion, a glass of kvass will speed up your post-gym recovery, according to the University of Michigan. Good riddance, DOMS.

GREEK YOGHURT An animal study published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition found that the bacteria in Greek yoghurt cuts your risk of colon cancer.

MEN’S HEALTH 37


TREND ON TRIAL GROUP CALISTHENICS

GET UP AND START PULLING YOUR BODYWEIGHT Group classes are taking calisthenics off the

streets and into the gym. MH swings into action to see if they’re they pulling a fast one

CALISTHENICS MH’S LAB RAT DAN MASOLIVER STATS 6FT 2IN, 82KG FITNESS LEVEL HIGH COST £14 PER SESSION BLOKLONDON.COM

ver since you first laced up your plimsolls for PE you’ve been unwittingly doing calisthenics. Press-ups, pull-ups and crunches are the staple moves of this old-school yet on-trend training ideology that eschews iron-age equipment in favour of progressively difficult bodyweight exercises. At its rippling core, calisthenics is inherently antigym, and that’s always been its appeal. Why spend £50 a month on a membership when you can build a naturally athletic physique for free? It’s this democratic nature that has made calisthenics into the fitness phenomenon it is, according to the American College of Sports Medicine. But as the number of men aspiring to add muscle-ups to their repertoire rises, the fitness industry has finally found a way to monetise their efforts, with group calisthenics classes popping up in gyms all over. Hasn’t the appeal of bodyweight training always been the fact you can do it any time, any place and, crucially, for free? We got to grips with a new class to find out.

E

TEST METHODS Other than a wall and a roof, it’s hard to see what the pared-back interior of this trendy east London gym studio offers that the park around the corner does not. I’m surprised that my classmates – mostly men in pretty good shape – have handed over £14 to the receptionist to be here. Our instructor, Sam, whose upper arm has more clearly defined muscles than my entire body, leads us through a quick cardio warm-up and some mobility exercises. So far, so comfortable, until the first timed triset: a side plank

DISCIPLINE FULL-BODY CALISTHENICS & CARDIO TEST STATION BLOK, CLAPTON, LONDON followed by press-ups, into the opposite side-plank. The first 90-second set is tough. By the end of the third, my chest, arms and shoulders are quaking in discomfort. The focus shifts to lower body, with sets of single-leg squats. My legs are strong from years of cycling, and so Sam instructs me instead to hold my foot against my glute and sink my knee to the floor. Too easy? Try pistol squats. ‘Progression’ is the buzzword here – you won’t be able to

nail a muscle-up if you can’t do a proper pull-up – which means everyone can work along at their own level. Sam slows it down with a brief front lever technique tutorial, but there’s no hanging around. We soon move on to another full-body triset, this time made up of 30-second bursts of chin-ups, chair squats and leg raises. My shoulders are on fire. At the end of the hour, I go to grab my water bottle, but we’re not done. A double Tabata finisher of travelling burpees and high-knees is a punishing end to an already exhausting session.

A LITTLE EXTRA SUPPORT CAN BUILD YOU A NEW FRAME

38 MEN’S HEALTH


12 BEST BAR NONE

USER FEEDBACK MUSCLE UP Whereas some classes can get boring or even a little too easy over time, you’re unlikely ever to plateau with calisthenics. Every exercise has a series of progressions that can take weeks (or months) to perfect.

BODY OF WORK For many bodyweight warriors, the beauty lies in building a strong, muscular physique without moving from the vicinity of the pull-up bar – they may find the abundance of high-intensity cardio to be off-putting.

PRICED OUT Unlike spinning or boxing, say, there’s actually no specialist equipment required, which means there’s little reason for anyone with even a moderate experience of bodyweight training to pay-as-they-grow.

AT A GLANCE

HOLD YOUR OWN Power up your bodyweight game with these moves from calisthenics coach Sam Burrows

PRICED BELOW £20 OFFERED NATIONWIDE NO GYM MEMBERSHIP REQUIRED FOR ALL FITNESS LEVELS MOTIVATING MUSIC ALLOWS PROGRESSION NO EXTRA KIT NEEDED

PHOTOGRAPHY: MICHAEL HEDGE

HIGH CALORIE BURN

NEGATIVE CHIN-UP

SLOW PRESS-UP

SHRIMP SQUAT

TECHNIQUE ADVICE

Don’t be fooled by the name – the effect that this backstrengthening move will have on your muscles is entirely positive. Leap up into the top part of a chin-up (use a box if you can’t reach the bar), and lower to a dead hang as slowly as you can.

Leave bashing out reps to the gym bros; the key to building real power lies in slow, controlled movements. Get in a press-up position and drop down as per usual – now count to five on your way back up and you should really start to feel the burn.

Standing in a reverse lunge, raise your back leg off the ground, keeping your shin parallel to the floor. Slowly lower your raised knee, tap it on the floor and power back up (without face-planting). Aim for your knee to land just behind your grounded heel.

FULL-BODY CONDITIONING

The benefit is the tuition. In all likelihood, watching bodyweight warriors like Hannibal Lanham and Chris ‘Tatted Strength’ Luera perform gravity-defying moves on YouTube isn’t

going to teach you the tekkers to do them yourself. If you want someone to guide you through the basics, this full-body, DOMS-inducing workout is a strong place to start.

THE VERDICT A calisthenics class is no walk in the park. Yes, you could do every single one of these moves in your back garden, but then the same goes for most other classes.

SCORE

9/10 WORTH YOUR BODYWEIGHT

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13 THE REST IS HISTORY

THE DEVIL’S ADVOCATE

REST DAYS ARE FOR THE WEAK Alternating heavy lifting with lazy sofa days puts a damper on your gains and health. Instead, a little action every day is the easiest way to stay fit

W

hatever Jim Bro and his cronies may say, the ‘go hard then go home’ approach to training is dead weight. This old-school philosophy of pulverising your body then barely lifting a cup of tea the day after might work for bodybuilders, who lift seriously heavy weights to develop specific SATAN’S LITTLE HELPER muscles, so require Ollie Frost (olliefrost.com) periods of total rest is a PT and former rugby pro who isn’t afraid to to recover. But tackle accepted wisdom unless you plan on overdoing the fake tan, lazy days are, well, just lazy. Let’s start with the broader health implications. Public Health England and the British Heart Foundation advocate daily activity to ward off diabetes, heart disease, cancer and depression. Obliterate your muscles every Friday, only to follow it with a sofa-bound Saturday, and you’re

for stimulating endorphins and boosting your cognitive performance 2 . What the stringer vest and baseball cap-wearers don’t know is that swapping sofa for sport can deliver benefits in the squat rack, too. Swimming improves joint mobility by producing synovial fluid, making it a great complement to power cleans, while yoga and Pilates will stabilise posture and strengthen your posterior chain. A paper in the Clinical Journal of Sport Medicine suggests regular stretching improves everything from strength to speed. If you think staying active seven days a week will leave you drained, the opposite is true. Additional low-intensity exercise will energise you, not wear you down 3 . So give rest a break and opt for a smarter everyday fitness programme. A day off isn’t proof you’ve been training hard. It’s a waste of time.

“You need low-impact activity to flush out the lactic acid from yesterday’s workout”

> DEALS WITH THE DEVIL 1

THE SPIN DOCTOR

The British Journal of Sports Medicine concluded that lowintensity cycling curbs muscle damage better than pure rest.

2

SMART STEPS

A 40-minute walk is enough to enhance connectivity in your grey matter, according to the University of Illinois.

3

FORCE OF NATURE

Experts at the University of Georgia found regular activity reduces fatigue more than anti-narcolepsy drug modafinil.

WORDS: MARK BAILEY | PHOTOGRAPHY: JOBE LAWRENSON

BURNING THE CANDLE AT BOTH ENDS NEED NOT BE A BAD THING

robbed of the myriad benefits. Tired muscles might thank you, but your heart and brain chemistry certainly won’t. The consequences of inactive rest days make for an uneasy read. Your metabolism slows down and your brain produces fewer endorphins. Muscle recovery is actually impaired, not enhanced; your body needs activity to flush out the lactic acid from yesterday’s workout, which is why even Tour de France cyclists do low-intensity rides on rest days 1 . Separate studies in the International Journal of Sports Medicine have shown that athletes who complete low-intensity exercise – such as swimming or cycling – on their off days recover faster. Ask yourself: WWFD? (Or, what would Froome do?) But don’t think we’re devilishly advocating daily deadlifts. Three targeted weights sessions a week (chest and arms; shoulders and back; and, yes, sorry, a legs day) is sufficient to improve strength. However, if you also want to drop body fat and boost your energy levels, you need to keep moving on the days in between. Start thinking about alternating between ‘gym days’ and ‘active days’. On gym days, train hard. On active days, stick to low-intensity stuff such as walking, tennis, cycling, swimming or golf. The steady-state cardio will stoke your metabolism and enhance your mood. In fact, aerobic exercise is superior to resistance training

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MEN’S HEALTH 41


THE BEST GYMS IN THE WORLD

TRAIN IN BEAST MODE

You’ll find some seriously big names – and frames – training at Monster Gymnasium. But don’t feel intimidated – they welcome all shapes and sizes 365

42 MEN’S HEALTH

10 10 YEARS The anniversary Monster recently celebrated. During that time, Steve and Angie have seen a shift from mass to leanness, and lifting heavy (badly) to proper form.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

WORDS: JAMIE MILLAR | PHOTOGRAPHY: TOM WATKINS

Y

ou know a gym means business when members of other establishments visit specifically to maximise their legs day. “A lot of other places have only got one leg press,” says Monster co-founder Steve Collins. “We’ve got around 25. You don’t have to queue – there’s always one going free.” Located at the northernmost end of the London Overground line in Cheshunt, Monster is where the likes of Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson and eight-time Mr Olympia Ronnie Coleman work out when they’re in town. That’s partly because it boasts the breadth of equipment they’re accustomed to in supersized Stateside gyms: Monster is like a working museum of esoteric weightlifting paraphernalia. But it’s also because they know they won’t be hassled for ‘swolefies’. Still, Monster is not your average meathead gym where you have to strenuously avoid eye contact. The clientele is reassuringly diverse: from BA pilots to MMA fighters, stand-up comedians and even priests. (Insert ‘preacher curl’ joke here.) The rise in teens and twentysomethings training in the gym post-2012 Olympics helps, as does the fact that Monster isn’t run by stereotypical bodybuilding folk: Steve used to supervise the staff gym at Great Ormond Street, where his co-founder and wife Angie was HR manager. “There’s an element of respect here – for us and the other members,” she says. Even The Rock, on the one occasion a piece of equipment he wanted to use was occupied, walked over and said, “Can I work in with you?” We imagine the answer was yes.

The number of days that Monster opens its doors each year. “It’s busy,” says Steve. “Although we don’t open up as early on New Year’s Day, for obvious reasons...”


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14 BRUTE STRENGTH

22,000 £6 How much a drop-in session at Monster will set you back. You can purchase a month’s membership for £50 with no contract, half a year for £225 or a year for £350.

The square footage of the main gym floor – not including an upstairs heaving with cardio gear, a full-size boxing ring (where you might see a certain Anthony Joshua) and an octagon.

3 The number of qualified cooks at Monster’s on-site cafe, preparing nutritous post-workout meals like peri-peri chicken and proteinpacked baked goods to eat on repurposed gym benches.

150 150KG The weight of the biggest set of dumbbells, which were made especially by Watson Gym Equipment and required extra plates shipped in from Japan. They have their own custom stand.

GYM MONSTER GYM

LOCATION HERTFORDSHIRE, UK

WEBSITE MONSTERGYM.CO.UK

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MEN’S HEALTH 43


CLEAN OUT YOUR FAT RESERVES Could it be your house is playing havoc with your weight? Tackle the waistline saboteur that lives too close to home

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CHEMICAL REACTION

UNUSUAL SUSPECTS

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HOUSE ARREST Navigate these common domestic fat traps

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f you’re struggling to tidy up your physique, there may be a culprit in your sink. And we don’t mean the dishes from last night’s cheat meal. Brand new research published in the journal Toxicology in Vitro found soaps and household cleaning products carry chemicals called obesogens. That you don’t want these inside your body should be obvious by their name. Previous studies have cited phthalates in plastic food containers as a potential cause of disease, but this is the first piece of evidence directly linking those in soap to the way the body stores fat. Frequent exposure disrupts lipid metabolism, causing you to pile on the pounds while exacerbating issues such as fatty liver disease. You can burst fat’s bubble by ditching your chemical cleaner for one made from natural ingredients. Dudu-Osun African Black Soap* is chemical-free, helping you stay slim and squeakyclean. Now wash your hands of those love handles for good.

i) AIR FRESHENERS These are known to contain phthalates. Switch chemical-heavy supermarket brands for a Moso air-purifying bag (£7 luckyvitamin.com) to banish bad smells and health risks alike.

iii) POLYESTER RAINCOATS Obesogens even find their way into your synthetic rainwear. A waxed canvas jacket (£450 belstaff.com) is both chemical-free and a far slicker way to outwit British winters.

ii) YOUR SHOWERHEAD The water you bathe in drags chemicals from PVC pipes with it. Simply installing an inexpensive water filter (£25 aquatiere.co.uk) in your shower should douse your concerns.

iv) PLASTIC CONTAINERS The leftover takeaway boxes you tote to and from the office could transfer a payload of BPA to your lunch. Opt for a smarter – in all senses – steel box (£25 elephantbox.co.uk).

WORDS: MATT EVANS | PHOTOGRAPHY: ROWAN FEE | *£.180 FOR 150G AMAZON.CO.UK

WEIGHTLOSS NEWSFEED 10/16

WASH YOUR HANDS OF DOMESTIC WEIGHT GAIN

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MEN’S HEALTH 45


stereotypes – these finger-licking chicken upgrades will fry excess body fat and add buckets of muscle

50 g CARBS

P

BECOME LORD OF THE FRIES Ruffle the feathers of junk food

BULK UP, SLIM DOWN FRIED CHICKEN BULK U

30g FAT

618

CALORIES

50g

PROTEIN

YOUR GYM-DAY WINGMAN SEED NEW GROWTH WITH A MUSCLE-FOOD MASH-UP

> METHOD SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS • Chicken breasts, 2, skinless • Smoked paprika, ½tsp • Garlic powder, ½tsp • Sea salt, ½tsp • Black pepper, a few grinds • Cayenne, pinch (optional)

BULK-UP EXTRAS • Flaxseed, 40g • Eggs, 2 • Chia seeds, 20g

SIDE DISH • White beans, 200g (dry weight) • Olive oil, 1tbsp • A garlic clove • A lemon, zested • Salt and pepper • Chives, 1tsp, sliced

1/ BIT ON THE SIDE

2/ BAKE OFF

Hold fire on the chicken and prep your bean mash first. Cook the beans on a medium-high heat in a pan and leave to simmer with the lid on for an hour.

While the beans cook, pre-heat the oven to 180°C with a wire rack above a baking tray. Combine the spices with the flaxseed then set aside in a bowl.

THE TASTEMAKER

3/ DOUBLE DIP

4/ MASH IT UP

Beat the eggs and add the chia seeds, then dip each breast in the mix before pressing into the flaxseed spice blend. Bake on the rack for 20-25 minutes.

Drain the beans and blitz with the olive oil, garlic and lemon zest. Season and garnish with chives, then serve with your crispy chicken.

46 MEN’S HEALTH

Name: Adria Wu Job: Chef & Author Wu is the founder of mega-healthy London restaurant Maple & Fitz. Her smart recipe upgrades will keep your body fit and tastebuds happy.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

WORDS: MARK BAILEY | PHOTOGRAPHY: AGATA PEC AT HEARST STUDIOS

The secret to this meal’s musclebuilding prowess lies in its seed coating, made from a blend of protein-dense chia, flaxseed (proven to ward off prostate cancer and depression) and eggs. Plus, by baking the bird in the oven instead of frying it in a vat of bubbling oil, you can savour that all-important crunch without any of the gut-busting greasiness. Sidestepping fries for a white bean mash provides another dose of protein, along with bone-bolstering manganese and enough fibre to satisfy rumblings without a trip to the Colonel’s HQ. Pass the napkins.


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POULTRY GAINS

GET HEN’S HEALTH

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FEATHERWEIGHT FILLETS A HOT TAKE ON FAST FOOD TO FIRE UP YOUR METABOLISM INGREDIENTS • Chicken breasts, 2, skinless • Smoked paprika, ½tsp • Garlic powder, ½tsp • Sea salt, ½tsp • Black pepper, a few grinds • Cayenne, pinch (optional)

SLIM-DOWN EXTRAS • Quinoa, 70g (dry weight) • Dijon mustard, 2tbsp

SIDE DISH • Tahini, 1tbsp • Dijon mustard, 1tsp • Lemon, ½, juice and zest • Red cabbage, sliced, 140g • Carrot, 50g, shredded • Spring onion, sliced, 1tbsp • Cayenne chilli, sliced, 1-2tsp • Mint leaves, torn, 2tbsp

Cast your mind back to the last time you woke up next to a soggy box of chicken bones on Sunday morning and it becomes immediately clear that your local Cluck Shack and fitness goals aren’t natural allies. But with some clever twists, this late-night hunger-buster can be transformed from dietary deviation to lean, clean dinner. Coating the chicken breasts in high-protein, low-fat quinoa gives them crispy bite that will satisfy your cravings, while the addition of mustard and smoked paprika will boost fatburning and speed up digestion. With a hunger-busting side of fibre-rich coleslaw soaked in a cayenne chilli and tahini sauce – which happens to be packed with B vitamins – you will be properly wired for your next training session, too. Get ready to rule the roost.

> METHOD SERVES 2

1/ ON THE RACK

2/ GO WITH THE GRAIN

Pre-heat the oven to 180°C and position a wire rack above a rimmed baking tray. Combine the spices, salt and pepper and set aside in a bowl.

Boil the quinoa then simmer for 12-15 minutes with the lid on until the water absorbs. Place a cloth over the pot for five minutes then fluff with a fork.

3/ GET YOUR COAT

4/ IT’S THE ’SLAW

Combine the quinoa and seasoning. Coat the chicken in mustard and dip it into the mix. Bake on the rack for 2025 minutes for maximum crisp factor.

Combine the tahini, mustard and lemon, adding water for a creamy dressing. Season and add the veg, then garnish with spring onion, chilli and mint.

28g

CARBS

15 g FAT

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

DOWN

403

CALORIES

SLIM

37g PROTEIN

MEN’S HEALTH 47


COVE R M O D E L M U SC LE M A R K WA H L B E R G

Pump And Grind SEIZING THE DAY WHILE THE REST OF US SLEEP, MARK WAHLBERG IS THE HARDEST GRAFTER IN HOLLYWOOD SHOW BUSINESS. BUT HIS BODY IS HIS BUSINESS, TOO, ALONG WITH RUNNING MULTIPLE COMPANIES AND MAKING TIME FOR A DAILY ROUND OF GOLF. SO HOW’S YOUR WORK/LIFE BALANCE? WORDS BY JAMIE MILLAR - PHOTOGRAPHY BY ART STREIBER


MAKE YOUR OWN MARK WITH WAHLBERG’S SOLID ADVICE


Ma k Wahlbe g COVE R M O D E L M U SC LE

“IF YOU’R YOU’RE RE DOING TH THEE RIGHT THINGS THERE WIL WILL ILLL BE ENOUGH ENOUG OUGHH TIMEE IN TH THEE DAY AY TO GET IT ALL DONE” ONE”

50 MEN’S HEALTH

FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION This mantra neatly mirrors Wahlberg’s approach to training. Now 45, he’s been working out consistently since he first burst onto the scene in 1991 as rapper Marky Mark, the prodigiously defined 20-year-old who went on to star in iconic

MARK HIS WORDS How Wahlberg’s fitness wisdom holds up against the hard science (spoiler: well) “I’d hit the heavy weights. Then [have] a protein shake. Then chicken, steak, fish and pasta... really overloading” Diets that are too protein-centric can actually limit your muscle growth. Add carbs to each meal for gains without the hunger pains.*

“When I don’t exercise and I’m not eating clean, I feel sluggish. So it’s good to get it done, especially if you’re sore” Regular exercise prevents soreness: ‘exercise-induced analgesia’ can dull the pain of last night’s leg session.

“I try to watch what I eat, because my metabolism has slowed down quite a bit” Men aged 40-50 burn, on average, 10kcal less per hour than those under 30. Exercise alone won’t quite cut it as you get older. Sorry.

ab-verts for Calvin Klein underwear. Now considerably older and wiser, his style of working out has changed from that enshrined in his 1993 exercise video Form… Focus… Fitness. Bringing to mind Daniel Lugo, the meatheaded bodybuilder-turned-kidnapper who he portrayed in 2013’s muscular satire Pain & Gain, the younger Wahlberg’s regimen – judging by the YouTube clips

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STYLING: SAMANTHA MCMILLEN THE WALL GROUP GROOMING: GEORGIE EISDELL/TOM FORD THE WALL GROUP

egg whites, sprouted-grain (and proteinpacked) Ezekiel bread, almond butter and avocado before hitting the gym at 4am. A quick shake, then he’s on the golf course for 6am, getting round in an hour or so. (“We’re usually sprinting, pretty much.”) Somewhere in there, he’ll eat and prep food for the day. Then, if he’s in LA, he’ll rush back home to Beverly Hills to see his wife, model Rhea Durham, after she drops his four kids off at school, before starting work: “If you’re doing the right things, then there’s enough time in the day to get it all done,” he says airily. The golf obsession is indicative of how Wahlberg does these manifold things. He had zero interest in the game until he was introduced to it by his buddy Johnny ‘Drama’ Alves and super-agent Ari Emanuel – the real-life inspirations for the characters on Entourage, the hit TV show Wahlberg produced and which was loosely based on his own experience. At first, Wahlberg couldn’t even hit the ball, but typically he became fixated on improving. Now, he hits it 300 yards and wins long-drive contests. He made time to work at it, by saving time where most of us spend it unproductively. “There’s no way I’m going out, eating dinner, drinking wine,” he says. “I literally go home and go to bed. If I finish work at 8pm, I try to be in bed by 9pm.” He doesn’t so much burn the candle at both ends as blowtorch it from one: “You gotta put the work in. Then you gotta get the rest and recovery.”

*JOURNAL OF THE INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY OF SPORTS NUTRITION, OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY, UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO

doesn’t phone anything in. Well, OK, so the Boston-born actor is phoning in this interview, specifically from Detroit, Michigan, where he’s filming Transformers: The Last Knight, the fifth installment in the franchise, and the second in which he’s assumed leading man duties from baby-faced Shia LeBeouf. But the point is he dedicates himself totally to whatever lies in his path. For example, Wahlberg is presently taking advantage of a brief respite in his punishing shoot schedule to supervise construction of the Motor City outpost of Wahlburgers, the restaurant chain that he runs with his brothers Donnie (of New Kids on the Block fame) and Paul, which just so happens to be down the road from the set. And wedged in between these engagements, he’s simultaneously conducting a cover interview with the world’s biggest men’s magazine, over the recognisable sounds of construction in the background. Acting, producing, hustling: Wahlberg does a lot of things at the same time, none of them by half. To some, he’s almost more businessman than he is actor, although he doesn’t completely agree. “Acting is my primary business,” he says. “But I’m 110% committed to both.” Now, everyone with the exception of a few Premier League footballers will grasp that these numbers do not add up. You can’t be 100% committed to more than one thing. You can’t be more than 100% committed to anything. But if you’re Wahlberg, somehow you can. You and I, for instance, can’t train, play golf and work a 12-hour job: there are only 24 of them in the day, after all. Yet Wahlberg can and does by making time where for most of us there is none. He’ll wake up at 3.30am and eat a breakfast of


ACTOR, PRODUCER, BURGER MAGNATE – NOTHING PROVES A STRETCH FOR WAHLBERG

broken bones in my hands. And I don’t want to just look like a bodybuilder. I’ve done that before, with Pain & Gain.”

PRODUCTION: EMILY ROTH/PRODUCIT | (OPENER) T-SHIRT JAMES PERSE, JEANS 7 FOR ALL MANKIND, WATCH ROLEX | (THIS PAGE) T-SHIRT JAMES PERSE, SWEATPANTS ALTERNATIVE, SHOES NIKE

GROWING MARKETS

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that survive – appears to have consisted chiefly of “phat weights”, “macking by the pool with some fly honeys” and punctuating sentences with “Pow!” Contrast that with the rather more recent exercise video on the website of Performance Inspired, the all-natural workout supplement business Wahlberg somehow finds time to run. Recorded at 3.37am, it shows him doing kettlebells,

TRX, battle ropes and various funkylooking moves involving cables and resistance bands – in other words, a far cry from your typical gym-bro programme of chest, arms and back to chest again. “It depends what I’m doing for work, but it’s mostly functional movement stuff,” the actor says of his method nowadays. “I always do full-body workouts, and I gotta prevent myself from getting any more injuries: I’ve got some herniated discs, labrum tears in my shoulders, a couple

Wahlberg’s expansion into protein shakes is characteristically shrewd. His business partner is Tom Dowd, a 25-year veteran of supplement giant GNC. “I’ve always wanted to be in the health and wellness business,” says Wahlberg in fluent entrepreneur-speak. “The space is growing at a rapid rate. But I also know there’s a lot of junk out there, and guys taking stuff that’s not good for them.” He’s a fan of the Ripped whey protein, which also contains muscle-building amino acids and caffeine from green tea. “I don’t drink coffee at all, but I’ve been taking the latte flavour, and now I crave it after a workout,” he says. “It gives me a boost on the golf course, because I’m usually pretty beat when I finish in the gym.” Marketing aside, that shake is genuinely one of the highlights of his day, a reward

MEN’S HEALTH 51


savoured. “It’s definitely something I look forward to,” he says earnestly. And if Wahlberg’s still feeling drained, then there’s always his other health and wellness company AquaHydrate, an electrolyte-charged, alkalised water. His business partner in this venture happens to be one Sean ‘P Diddy’ Combs. Wahlberg dipped his toe when he was immersed in almost three years of training for 2010’s The Fighter, the double Oscar-winning film he both produced and starred in. “Somebody asked me to hear a pitch,” he recalls. “The next thing you know, some guy’s sitting there talking about reversing acidity and all this stuff. I’m like, ‘Dude, I drink a gallon of water a day. Leave it. I’ll try it.’ It was the only thing I changed and my recovery time halved. I went from running six miles a day to running eight.” Recovery, and health generally, occupies more of Wahlberg’s busy mind, both because of his business interests and his advancing years. Training is no longer about muscle size for its own sake. “I want to be able to play with my kids,” he says. “I want to run and play basketball.” To that end, he has a full court at his house – although he says he hasn’t played for a while and is unconvinced of his continued ability to dunk. (“I wouldn’t even try,” he says wistfully.) But he did shoot hoops to shed the weight amassed for Pain & Gain: “It’s a great way to do cardio, and make it fun and different, as opposed to being on a stationary machine.” Bulking up to 96kg from his usual 84-ish was “restrictive”, not just because of having to eat 10 times a day: “You can’t move. You’re not as flexible.”

WAHLBERG SEIZES NEW OPPORTUNITIES WITH BOTH HANDS

WEIGHT OF EXPECTATION Wahlberg recently bulked up to 96kg again, albeit in rather more indulgent fashion, for Deepwater Horizon, a film about the BP oil rig disaster off the coast of Louisiana, out this month. Playing a real-life hero as opposed to one from the pages of a comic book, Wahlberg ate “a lot of fried food, subs, pasta; we were in New Orleans so there was no shortage” and drank a lot of red wine. “I got as heavy as possible,” he says. “Which was fun, for a while. Then it got a little tough in the heat. And it gets harder to lose the weight. Your metabolism slows down...” Nevertheless, he lost it for another film (which unfortunately fell apart), only to regain it to play a cop with a bum knee in Patriot’s Day, out January 2017, about the Boston Marathon bombings. Wahlberg then had little more than

52 MEN’S HEALTH

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COVE R M O D E L M U SC LE M A R K WA H L B E R G

BODY OF WORK The zeniths and nadirs of Wahlberg’s physical career

The Fighter (2010) – 65kg

Transformers: The Last Knight (2017) – 77kg

A more enjoyable bulking phase, with fried food and booze back on his menu

At age 45, Wahlberg has leaned down again for his second robot war epic

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: ALLSTAR, LANDMARK, REX FEATURES

Three-plus years of boxing training kept MW both lean and strong for his shot at the Oscar title

Deepwater Horizon (2016) – 96kg

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

three weeks to transform himself once more, this time down to a lean 77kg for Transformers 5. Of course, getting in shape is somewhat easier when, in addition to a basketball court, you have a huge home gym that makes most commercial outfits look smalltime. But what about when Wahlberg’s on location and staying in hotels? Simple: he takes it with him. “I get a room next door to mine and take all the furniture out,” he says. “It’s not the same level that I’ve got at home but it’s a pretty good set-up.” If the bedrooms aren’t big enough, then he’ll commandeer a conference room and set up in there. If that sounds far-fetched, he claims that even corridors are sometimes co-opted. “I’ve got a sled, so I go up and down the hallways,” he says. “Hopefully without disturbing guests…” Because of his line of work, Wahlberg has been on a bodyweight rollercoaster. “I need to find that good balance,” he says. “Eating right and exercising but also enjoying yourself, whether that’s having a few beers, a burger or whatever.” In his case, that’s the Mark-approved Thanksgiving Sandwich at Wahlburgers: “Turkey burger, mash potato, stuffing and cranberry.” Or maybe the haddock burger: “Beautiful piece of white fish, light batter… That’ll definitely be popular in the UK with people loving fish and chips as much as they do.” Indeed, a London branch is on the menu: “We’re in serious discussions.” He’s also talking to friends in the pizza business: ‘Markheritas’, perhaps? “They have a name… But you’re making me hungry. I’ve been eating so clean for the last two months. Although I had one glass of wine on my birthday, because my wife had a party for me.” Although Wahlberg lives in LA, he doesn’t subsist on kale juice and positive energy: he’s still a regular guy from Boston who eats burgers, at least when he’s not under the gun for shooting. This is a crucial part of his pan-regional appeal and why he is drafted in to revitalise flatlining franchises like Transformers. Accordingly, he is paid Hollywood’s top dollar for the privilege – an estimated

16-18 million of them for the fourth instalment, which was critically mauled but still made over a billion worldwide. “It’s a relatability,” he says of his draw for audiences. “I’ve got a lot of real-life experience and hopefully that translates. It’s difficult for me to talk about: I don’t really analyse myself in that way. You can find yourself chasing something that… It’s either there organically or it’s not. But I think they can tell how hard I work. . I’m 110% committed to everything I do.” That familiar refrain again…

PLAYING THE LONG GAME It’s this work ethic that has transformed Wahlberg, improbably, from jail timeserving teenage delinquent to risible pop star to credible actor to incredibly successful businessman. Though he can all-too-convincingly portray a slacker in Ted, behind the scenes he’s grinding like his life depends on it, even though he probably doesn’t need to work at all. But he likens his acting career to an athlete’s: as long as he’s still playing, he’s determined to make the most of it. “I’m going to work harder every day until I’m not doing it anymore,” he says. “And while I’m doing it, I have to be the best that I can be. I feel like I’m always willing to work twice as hard as everybody else.” Doesn’t he ever stop? “Yep. When I go to bed, I’m done for the day,” he says without irony. That ultimate stopping point, though, could be soon. “I can’t see myself doing these physically demanding roles much longer,” he admits. “I like the idea of transitioning to playing the older guy.” But he won’t be yelling cut on working out. “I think after a while, if you don’t train, you just start feeling like crap. I don’t want to have to keep up this level of intensity, but I feel better when I work out.” Besides, maintaining is infinitely less painful than gaining. “It’s easier to stay in shape than to get in shape,” he says. “So if you can get there, enjoy yourself and then burn it off. It’s a good way to live.”

“I’M ALWAYS AYS AY WILLINGG TO WORK TWIC TWICE ICEE AS HARD AS ANYONE ELSE” LSE”

TURN FOR WAHLBERG’S 30-MINUTE BULK-UP PLAN

MEN’S HEALTH 53


COVE R M O D E L M U SC LE M A R K WA H L B E R G

RETRAIN & GAIN Wahlberg spends 30min of every workout ut stretching – yes, even at 4am.. But for the fiirst st few weeks off hiss latest regimee, longtime trainer Brian Nguyen (brikfitness. com) restricted ted him to mobility work and ‘self-limiting’ exercises – ie ones that are “hard to fuck up”. If you’ve had a lay-off, this is how to get back on it.

1/ BRIDGE WITH BAND PULL-APART 10 X 10SEC HOLDS, 5SEC REST This double-whammy drill wakes up your slumbering glutes and back muscles. Lie with your knees bent and feet planted, hholding g a resistance band. Squeeeze your g glutes to raise your hips while sprreading yyour arms (and the band) wide. A

B

2/ BENT-KNEE T DRILL 5 X 10SEC HOLD PER SIDE, 5SEC REST This restores movement to your upper and middle back, which seizes up when you’re sitting all day. Lie on the ground with your arms spread. Slowly lower your kknees to either i h side id alternately, l l ke keeping yyour shoulders h ld glued l d to the h grounnd. A

B

3/ SKIPPING KIPPING

4/ SSLED PULL

5/ FARMER’S WALK

1MIN Along with basketball, this is Wahlberg’s preferred cardio. Keep your elbows behind your body, and rotate from your wrists for speed and efficiency. Don’t tense up or yo y u’re ’ likely lik l to tire i – and d trip. i

4 X 20M As it sounds: load up a sled, attach it to your waist with a belt and pull it to simultaneously bust your gut, lungs and strength plateaus. Brace your core and don’t on t be too ambitious with the weight. w

AS FAR AS POSSIBLE Extended time under tension means this combines cardio and muscle-building. Holding heavy dumbbells or kettlebells, simply walk with an upright posture. Your grip will tell you when to let up.

A

B

54 MEN’S HEALTH

A

B

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

CUT OUT AND KEEP

A


SWITCH UP YOUR CARDIO Wahlberg trains five days a week, resting Thursday and Sunday. His ‘cardio complex’ (right) alternatess upper-body and d lower-body, pushes and pulls. Perform the first move, rest for 30sec, then superset with the next. Finish up with skipping; repeat before moving on to the next pair of moves.

1/ KETTLEBELL FLOOR PRESS

2/ DEADLIFT

3/ SKIPPING

2 X 30SEC, 30SEC REST This is easier on your shoulders than the bench, as it limits your range of motion and hits your triceps harder. It’s also handy if the gym’s busy. Press; lower the KBs and pause for a beat at the bottom.

2 X 30SEC, 30SEC REST Using a barbell or two KBs, hinge at the hips with a flat back and drive through your heels to raise the weights. Do as many quality reps as you can in the time, tthen go g back to floor press for set two.

1-2MIN

A

A A

B

B

4/ SUSPENSION TRAINER ROW

5/ WEIGHTED SQUAT

6/ SKIPPING

2 X 30SEC, 30SEC REST As well as building your back, these shore up your shoulders. Set the handles low and hang with arms straight, heels on the ground. Pull the handles to your sides, drawing your shoulder blades in.

2 X 30SEC, 30SEC REST Nguyen upgrades staple moves such as squats, press-ups and lunges to increase the demands and improve mobility. Holding a heavy dumbbell, squat, then drive upp through g yyour heels to stand.

1-2MIN

A

A

A

B B

CUT OUT AND KEEP

STICKMEN: AGATA PEC AT HEARST STUDIOS

YOUR BIG ARMS DEAL The equivalent of dessert after finishing all of your greens: Wahlberg allows himself a quick biceps blast, but only after his functional work. Nguyen makes him stretch after each round, for less pain and enhanced gains.

1/ TRX BICEPS CURL

2/ ALTERNATING DUMBBELL CURL

3/ CHEST AND BICEPS STRETCH

6-10 REPS Position yourself in a more upright stance than you would for an inverted row, with the suspension trainer handles slightly shorter. Curl them toward your forehead, then lower under control.

6-10 REPS EACH SIDE Grab two dumbbells and hold them by your sides, palms in. Bend at the elbow to curl one of the weights up toward your shoulder, twisting it so your palm faces your shoulder, then slowly lower.

30 SECONDS Drop the weights and place your forearm along a wall, upper arm perpendicular to it. Push your torso forward. Stretching is vital for hypertrophy: “If the muscle’s too tight, it won’t grow,” says Nguyen. A

A

B

A

B

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MEN’S HEALTH 55


TIME WORDS BY DAVID MORTON / PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOBE LAWRENSON & MICHAEL HEDGE

MAXIMISING LIFE’S GREATEST LUXURYY

60

SECONDS A DAY TO BULLETPROOF YOOURR GS HEART AND LUNGS

T

hat life is a marathonn andd not ot a sprint has never beeen truer, with advances in thee science of ‘healthspans’ stretching the length of time you can expect to live an active life to just a smidge under a century. But such is the pace of modern life, men often lack the time to luxuriate in this longevity. And that’s why new research into high-intensity interval training offers a welcome shortcut to prosperity. Sports scientists at Canada’s McMaster University found that

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

Q: WHAT IS 3 X 20? A YOUR O KEYY TO A LONGER, A: FASTER, HEAALTHIER LIFE

just three 20 20-second second sprints at maximum effort provides the same improvement to your cardiorespiratory system as 50 minutes of low-intensity exercise. Those going all-out saw swift boosts to their metabolic health and muscular-skeletal strength, too. Just three sessions a week was enough to set new records in oxygen uptake, despite a five-fold reduction in time spent exercising. So, if you want to get fit fast and die old, some sprints on the way to the finish line are your quickest route to victory. MEN’S HEALTH 57


TIME

09

EAT THESE GREENS ON THE GO TO WATCH YOUR WAISTLINE WILT

WEEKS TO CONVERT YOUR BODY INTO A BELLY FAT BLENDER

58 MEN’S HEALTH

fat stores for energy. A nine-week study published in the medical journal PLoS One found this not only improves your rate of fat loss, but also enhances stamina during endurance exercise. There is, however, a caveat – but one we believe you’ll enjoy. In their research, the scientists discovered that adding fats to lutein-containing foods spikes uptake of the nutrient by three times, so add almond milk, a banana and a spoon of nut butter to your greens before blitzing. That it will make your shake a whole lot more palatable is, of course, an extra boost.

FOOD STYLIST: TAMARA VOS

E

arly morning cardio sessions are all well and good at the height of summer. But as the window for getting your body into seasonal shape narrows, the idea of blasting through a few fat-burning laps of the park before work begins to look less than bright. Shake up your pre-run nutrition, however, and rising and grinding for a leaner physique should go a lot more smoothly. Lutein – a carotenoid abundantly found in green giants such as kale, spinach and broccoli – has been shown to trigger a huge increase in levels of AMPK, dubbed the ‘marathon enzyme’ for its ability to switch your cells’ mitochondria from burning food to tapping your

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK


MH PROMOTION

TOUGH RUNNER

NEW BALANCE ATHLETE ROSS MILLINGTOON REVEALS THE STRENGTH MOVES YOU NEEED TO UPGRADE YOUR RUNNING PERFORMANCE

W

e’ve all got weak spots. Even elite middle-distance runners. “My strength routine has been developed around the injuries and weak areas I’ve had,” says New Balance athlete Ross Millington. “For me, it’s all about glute strength – making sure they’re firing well – and working on my quads and core.” When you’re building strength for the road, bench-pressing heaving barbells is surplus to requirement. Classic bodyweight moves are the key to developing the functional muscle you need to excel as a runner. Ross’s strength sessions focus on single-leg moves like lunges and Bulgarian split squats to boost his balance, alongside classic glute moves like squats. Yoga poses and planks, meanwhile, make up the foundation of Ross’ core routine – so there’s no call for a gym membership. All you need is 6m of space and a good reserve of willpower. Training is tough, but motivation is the biggest obstacle – you are your toughest opponent, after all.

PERFORM EVERY SQUAT AND LUNGE AS SLOWLY AS YOU CAN – BUILDING STRENGTH IS A MARATHON NOT A SPRINT.

Find more tips from Ross Millington at menshealth.co.uk/toughestopponent

LEARN HOW TO TRAIN YOURSELF AT NEWBALANCE.CO.UK/TOUGHESTOPPONENT #IAMTHECOMPETITION

PRECISION RUN JACKET £110, PRECISION RUN TIGHT £70, VAZEE PACE V2 £100, AVAILABLE AT NEWBALANCE.CO.UK

DEVELOPING POWER IN YOUR ARMS WILL INCREASE YOUR SPRINT PACE. THINK PRESS-UPS, CURLS AND FLIES.


TIME

01

HOUR TO TURN UP THE HEAT ON YOUR STAMINA LEVELS

WORDS: AARON TOUMAZOU | SADDLE SOHOBIKES.CO.UK

C

ardio junkies getting high and mighty about the fitness benefits of training at altitude might want to come back down to earth. New research suggests a far more achievable means of improved performance is enjoying a very hot moment. University of Coventry researchers compared the effectiveness of Le Tour’s favoured ‘normobaric hypoxia’ with heat training for improving the delivery of oxygen to muscles during endurance events. In the study, a group of cyclists were tasked with performing daily 60-minute sessions in either low-oxygen or hot conditions, before completing a time trial at artificially low-altitude. Those who underwent the heatbased course showed reduced physical strain and improved times in much the same way that low-oxygen training affords. So, while we’re not advocating Rocky Balboa-esque levels of layering, this does mean that opting for added warmth during transitional weather can give your cardio-commute the same fitness benefits as a pricey sportive in loftier, foreign climes. Zip up and prepare to feel the burn.

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BLAST YOUR WAY TO THE FRONT OF THE COMMUTER PELOTON

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TIME

30

MINUTES TO FEED YOUR BRAIN WITH A CHICKEN BHUNA

I

f a Friday-night takeaway after a long week at work feels like a foolhardy indulgence, we are about to serve you some truly delicious science. Because the combination of the key ingredients in a stock curry sauce can prevent your blood pressure from boiling over and spice up your working memory in time for the week ahead. Research into the psychological effects of cinnamon published in The Journal of Neuroimmune Pharmacology found that oral doses given to mice trigger a higher concentration of a protein involved in memory and learning

in the hippocampus. This is your brain’s ‘filing system’, responsible for organising and recalling information. Meanwhile, a separate study in Planta Medica journal found that the blood pressurereducing powers of turmeric can be enhanced by 2000% when paired with black pepper, thanks to a significant increase in the absorption of nutrients. Regardless of whether you’re a budding Karam Sethi in the kitchen and a whizz with the spice paste, or watching the clock after ordering in a chicken bhuna, rest assured that your next curry is the thinking man’s cheat meal.

MIX THE RIGHT SPICES AND THE BENEFITS REALLY STACK UP

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MEN’S HEALTH 63


Brexit. Rising house prices. Boris Johnson’s international career. Whatever your age, modern life has a lot of hurdles. But despite downbeat prospects, the new man is striving to shatter outdated milestones of masculinity. MH took the VO2 max of the nation by surveying you, the reader, to unlock new prospects at every stage of life, starting today WORDS: TOM WARD | PHOTOGRAPHY: AGATA PEC


01\

How do you measure success? When it comes to aspirations, modern man is more sangfroid zen than Gordon Gekko greed

59%

Personal happiness

20%

Comparing salary to friends’

6% GGUT UUTTTTER EERR CCRRED EDI DDIIT

Cash in the bank

MEEN M NSSHEEAALLTTHH.CCO CO. O.UK UK

MEEN’ M N’S HE HEAALLTH TH 6655


02\ 30

Men aged 20-34 living with their parents

20

%

A housing market in decline means you’re now more likely to be living in your parent’s nest than fretting about mortgages

10 %

You might not own that yacht yet, but fewer financial responsibilities give you more freedom than your parents have ever known. Make the most of it

%

Keeping Mum

(noun)

05\

A man in his third decade of life who – largely down to the economic downswing and decline in jobs – displays the financial and family responsibilities of a teenager

20

16

10

06\

University Challenge Despite rising tuition fees, university is still the best way to fill your coffers

20

20

01 20

6 19 9

Adulescent

06

Men aged 20-24 who own their homes

DEFINITION

Stubbing It Out The percentage of men puffing through a 20-a-day habit has gone up in smoke

See: Jon Favreau in Swingers CASE STUDY

The Job-seeking Journalist

11%

DAVEY BRETT, 23, LIVERPOOL

A

fter graduating in 2015, I interned without pay for two months in London, then moved to a mate’s sofa in Liverpool and signed on to the dole. I now do freelance journalism and supplement this with a zero-hour hospitality job. Being priced out of London means I’m away from the majority of jobs within my field and I’m unable to expand my network. The upside to being up North is that although I no longer have the disposable income of a student, it’s a lot cheaper here. With a pint costing around £2.50, I can socialise regularly and manage to fit in about 10 beers a week. In London I opted for coffee to save money. Boozing aside, I could definitely be healthier – though I’ve never smoked. The gym can be expensive, so I cycle everywhere as it’s a free and easy way to stay fit. Plus I’d much rather be outdoors. If I’m feeling under the weather, I’m more likely to wait it out than see

66 MEN’S HEALTH

a doctor. I do try to look after my mind using meditation, though, but rarely have the time to practise. Diet-wise, my youthful metabolism is waning, but I still over-indulge in snacks and sugary foods, with my bad eating habits defined by convenience. For example, I nearly always skip breakfast as I’m normally running late. I don’t have the disposable income to eat out, but this is a saving grace in terms of both money and nutrition, as I cook healthy big-batch meals like chilli at home and heat it up throughout the week. Settling down with a family is a luxury that only the people of my parent’s generation were able to pursue in their twenties. A mortgage to me is an old-fashioned, nearmythical luxury and saving for one has never felt further away. In the meantime, not having to put aside money for a house affords me a lot more freedom. I’m not tied to living in one area and I can freelance for the places I really want to work, and only take a full-time job when it feels right for me.

1991

20%

3%

Percentage of university graduates who go on to become an asset millionaire

Percentage of millionaires who went the ‘Alan Sugar’ route, with no formal qualifications

07\

Taking Flight With long-term options limited, young men are investing in the there-and-now

27% Will put their savings toward a mortgage

30%

Of men will choose to travel on their savings

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK


Who Is Man 2016?

03\

04\

Fitness Feast

Mind Gains

ANALYSIS

Modern man is an adaptive creature when it comes to optimising wellbeing

Silver Linings Playbook

45% Have never meditated

42%

I\ Act fast Good news for the timestrapped: an American Journal of Clinical Nutrition study found skipping breakfast has no impact on bodyweight or resting metabolic rate, so don’t sweat it. And if you’re worried about over-compensating at lunch, Cornell University found breakfast-skippers took on fewer calories throughout the day than the muesli crowd.

Have tried meditating

27%

Some youthful creativity can mean a budget boost for both body and mind

Spending on eating out rises this much in the two months prior to men joining a gym

13%

Would be willing to try

II\ Hit the bar If a gym membership decimates your wage packet, the humble pull-up is your greatest weapon in the fight for fitness. A study published in Strength and Conditioning Research found it activates your lower trapezius (the key to a V-shaped upper body) more than any other movement – meaning affordable fitness needn’t be a pain in the neck.

5%

2014

III\ Park your fitness

08\

09\

Retirement Pains

Home & Loan

Dwindling disposable income sees money spent in the short-term

Buying a home is bricks and mortar stuff, but getting your foot in the door can hurt

02\ ONS | 05\ ONS WEALTH REPORT 2016 | 06\ HEALTH SURVEY FOR ENGLAND 2014 08\ THE CHARTERED INSTITUTE FOR SECURITIES AND INVESTMENTS | 09\ ONS

13%

The average deposit for a firsttime buyer in 1991

22%

The average deposit for a firsttime buyer in 2014

If you’re wisely investing in mental wellbeing, choose outdoor workouts to open your mind to maximum benefits. A study in the journal Urban Forestry & Urban Greening found exercising outside helps you feel up to 40% more psychologically balanced, reducing stress by an incredible 87%. And yes, Pokémon Go sort of counts.

IV\ Invest in the ’rents

£800 p/m The amount those in their twenties would have to save for 40 years to retire with an annual income of £30,000

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

Being priced out isn’t unique to the Big Smoke, with homeownership across the UK at its lowest point since 1986. While not ideal, living with mum and dad has long-term benefits. Fewer overheads and obligations (no mortgage, family, kitchen overhaul) mean you’re free to try out different professions guilt-free, without worrying about tomorrow.

MEN’S HEALTH 67


10\

Downing Pints

4%

DEFINITION

Professional Re-booter

Men averaging more than four units a day fell this much from 2006-2014

(noun) Having proved himself in his career to date, this man is looking to add another string to his bow by pursuing passion projects without compromising his position of power See: Jamie Oliver CASE STUDY

The Aspirational Homeowner ADAM WILLIAMS, 32, KENT

A

fter graduating with a fine art degree, the plan was to become an art teacher. But, back at my parent’s house and stuck with a daunting amount of debt, I realised I needed a job to tide me over until I could start a PGCE. I went to work for a start-up company as I liked the idea of working in ‘London Town’ for a while. Eight years and three companies later, I’m still here, working an average of 38-45 hours a week. I enjoy my work and there’s a great office culture, but long-term, I’m inspired by my wife, who’s just launched an online store called The Modern Nursery, selling fashionable baby clothes. I’d love to start my own socially-led business… Outside of the office, I spend the majority of my spare cash on my family, food, and the occasional holiday. I don’t think about saving for retirement everyday, but it is in the back of my mind. I’ve alleviated the pressure slightly by working bloody hard to own

68 MEN’S HEALTH

three properties, which will be my daughter’s inheritance. Even though I have a hectic work and home life, I still find time for the gym. It’s important for me to maintain my fitness but my main motivation is to stay healthy for my daughter. So far, I feel in good health and if I am feeling ill, I’m more likely to rely on over-the-counter drugs, although I do try to see the doctor regularly. I am a bit of a hypochondriac when it comes to cancer, as sadly we have a family history. In terms of my physique, I’m in fairly decent shape these days – my aim is to get lean while developing functional muscle, rather than simply bulking. Because of this, meals usually consist of chicken, kale and sweet potatoes. I’m into the ‘use your brain’ diet. Having said that, I drink a lot less than I used to, after going teetotal while training for a marathon a few years back. I still eat out and socialise with friends, though. I think it’s important to find time for things outside of the office and home.

13\

Changing Coal Faces men are unhappy 61% Ofin their current job to find a new job 56% Plan within the next year to be working for 25% Plan themselves in five years

15\

Losing Sleep Though we have more options than ever, the stresses on modern men are many

54%

Claim to be suffering from severe stress

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

10\ HEALTH SURVEY FOR ENGLAND 2014 | 11\ YOUGOV | 16\ THE CONDITION OF BRITAIN REPORT 2013

Having worked full-pelt for a decade, men in their thirties are earning a more robust wage. As the urge to diversify rears its head, it’s time to move up a level

18% – The number of men cutting out the sauce all together


Who Is Man 2016?

11\

12\

Mate’s Rates

Hooky Street

25%

Of men are in touch with their friends less than once a month

ANALYSIS

When it comes to skiving off work, gender roles have reversed, with men becoming the more consistent workers

Mid-career Consultation

20 % The number of men who have called in ill when they weren’t

Your goals are in reach, but friends and fitness needn’t take a backseat

11%

I\ Quit (temporarily)

This many more women called in sick than men in 2015

14\

Ailing Approach Modern man is clued-up, with his key concerns breaking down as follows:

Instead of jacking in the job, think short-term. With 91% of millennials choosing to move careers every three years, employers are becoming increasingly savvy to the idea of the sabbatical. Get the terms of your break in writing first to ensure there will still be a job for you to return to – whether or not you want to come back is entirely up to you.

II\ Be the daddy Alternatively, consider shared parental leave. Together, you and your partner are eligible for a year off, with your employer required by law to pay you £139.58 p/w while you’re away. Applying is as simple as filling in a form (download from gov.uk). If you can contend with a new-born baby, it could be the perfect time to get that big idea off the ground.

III\ Save yourself

1%

2%

Zika virus

HIV

2% Super

2Liver %

gonorrhoea

disease

10% Heart disease

22% 61% Depression

Cancer

16\

Personal Promotions Men and women are working harder than ever, but a rise in female breadwinners means now could be the time to consider joining the UK’s 4.7m-strong army of freelancers

If you do choose to go it alone, consider that you’ll be forgoing a company pension, with just 31% of self-employed workers saving for retirement, reports the Federation of Small Businesses. Put aside £200 per month in a standard, 5% investment growth scheme to see returns of over £70,000 in 20 years’ time, according to Hargreaves Lansdown.

IV\ Buddy up

29%

Say financial worries keep them up at night

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

33%

52%

The number of female breadwinners in couples with children

This many men work more than 41 hours per week

With limited gym time, it’s vital to get the most out of every session – to whit, former Olympian Professor Greg Whyte recommends booking yourself into a fitness class. Plus, according to the WHO, dragging a mate along carries the significant benefit of reducing your risk of early death. Bagging a Class Pass (classpass.com) is a good start.

MEN’S HEALTH 69


17\

18\

Mirror Image

Your Body Icons 2016

Your shape matters to you, but staying in it is a struggle. Here are your obstacles:

Forty was a milestone, but you’re not letting it curb your enthusiasm – fitness or financial. And with older kids, you have more time to dedicate to your goals

43% Willpower

Good news: up-start spornosexuals are out, well-aged muscle is back Thee best: bes

Jason Statham

DEFINITION

Gym Daddy (noun) Having reached a certain age – and with ambition renewed – the Gym Daddy is now pushing toward his physical prime, proving that the rest of your life begins at 40

Hugh g Jackman

See: Hugh Jackman David Beckham

CASE STUDY

43%

The Enterprising Entrepreneur

Free time

DAVID ISON, 49, SOUTHAMPTON

I

to cut down on carbs and increase my protein intake. I generally try to eat healthily, but finding time for shopping and meal preparation can be an issue. I’ve never smoked and haven’t really drunk at all over the last 10 years. I still go on as many holidays as I used to, but I find that I very rarely have time to go out and socialise, again, mostly due to work commitments. Fitness is more important to me than ever and I’m lucky that my daily workout routine revolves around my work. I spend an hour at the gym as often as my coaching schedule allows, but when I was a tennis player myself – between the ages of 18 and 28 – I attended the gym daily. The difference between then and now is that now work commonly interferes with my plans. Most of the time I focus on core stability, bodyweight exercises and flexibility. I can still touch my toes and the feeling after a good session is what motivates me to work out. Given more leisure time, I’m sure I’d be able to build the body I want.

Christiano Ronaldo

10%

Zac Efron

The cost of healthy food

4%

The cost of gym memberships

Ryan Reynolds

Chris Hemsworth

20\

Chicken Runs Your renewed appetite for lean protein saw UK poultry production increase by 131,000 tonnes last year

39%

Of men indulge in a high-protein meal plan

G

’m a retired tennis player and fulltime coach. On average I work 40-50 hours a week as I’m trying to build two businesses: a local performance centre and the Bassett Lawn Tennis Club, Southampton. I find my job very rewarding – and having played tennis professionally for nearly a decade, it was a natural progression – but in five years I hope to be spending less time coaching and more time managing both businesses. I measure my happiness in terms of how happy my children are and whether or not I feel I’m doing an effective job at work. Day to day, I don’t think about money – I own my house and have a few years left to pay on the mortgage – but I have recently begun the process of saving for the future. All being well, I’d like to retire by age 60. For me, diet is the most important factor in staying fit. I always eat breakfast and as I’ve got older I’ve tried

h rest:: The

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Who Is Man 2016? ANALYSIS

The Longevity Masterplan Slow down and pick up the slack outside of work to ensure long-term gains I\ Plan your escape

13%

19\

Doubling Up

in 1993

With 44% of men not monitoring what they eat, male obesity levels have gone up a notch or two

24% in 2014

21\

23\

Class Projects

Upping Leave

Men are increasingly focusing on maintainable stability over instant aesthetic gains

Modern man spends more time doing coffee runs than school ones

38%

II\ Lose your looks With less than half of men feeling content with their bodies, it’s time to reverse your goals. Rather than focusing on aesthetics alone, signing up to an endurance event will promote long-term, practical fitness. Get the approach right, and the body will follow. May we suggest Men’s Health Survival of the Fittest? (mhsurvival.co.uk)

Of men have upped mobility through yoga

III\ Lower the steaks Defying a slowing metabolism doesn’t mean living off greens and lean meat. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition found wholegrains cut your risk of hypertension by a life-saving 19% – as well as powering your workouts. And with recent research suggesting protein overload is as fattening as sugar, you’d best balance your macros.

19\ HEALTH SURVEY FOR ENGLAND 2014 | 20\ DEPARTMENT FOR ENVIRONMENT, FOOD & RURAL AFFAIRS BRICKS WICKES, WALLET PAUL SMITH, BELT RUSSELL & BROMLEY | ADDITIONAL IMAGES: GETTY

50%

65%

Are now investing in functional training

Of men took all of their holiday days last year

22\

Supp It Up

IV\ Carry on deadlifting

Supplements targeting toned arms and tuned-up immunity are the nation’s favourite

11%

Of men see their children more than four hours a day

50%

50%

Of men take a daily multivit

Regularly drink protein shakes

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

Before complaining that you never have time to yourself, it’s worth checking you’re actually taking all of the annual leave you’re entitled to. Jetting off isn’t just about hitting the refresh button – researchers from the Finnish Institute of Occupational Health found that overworking more than doubles your risk of suffering a major depressive episode.

Reaching middle age doesn’t mean you have to cut out big lifts. Fast-twitch muscle fibres waste quicker in your forties, so they’re more essential than ever. Devote more time to protecting joints: the American Journal of Physiology found the inability to touch your toes leads to arterial stiffening. Stay mobile and smash PBs for years to come.

MEN’S HEALTH 71


THE ECONOMIC$ OF ADV£NTURE As post-Brexit Britain continues on its uncertain economic path, the temptation to down tools holds more appeal than ever. But is jacking it in for a life of exploration ever a viable option? WORDS BY TOM WARD – ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER CROWTHER


32%

Men who travel reduce their risk of heart disease by this much†– a more appealing tonic than your GP has to offer


an Amazon tributary located deep within the rainforest. But after three months hacking through dense jungle, Mason and his companions had enjoyed little success. It was then that Mason was ambushed by a party of Parara tribesmen, infamous as the most fearsome tribe in the area, a people for whom the words ‘stranger’ and ‘enemy’ reportedly have the same translation. When members of his expedition found Mason later that day, 40 arrows and 15 clubs had been arranged around his corpse, as per the tribe’s ceremonial traditions. The expedition had failed, but Richard Mason was to go down in history as the last Briton to be killed by an uncontacted indigenous Amazonian tribe. He was 27-years-old. Today – due in large part to multiple technological advances from satellite mapping to cheaper airfares – there are few remaining unexplored lands in which to plant one’s flag, or indeed, remote rivers to be mapped. But these same technologies have also served to democratise adventure travel, with many among Britain’s young and economically dispossessed opting to take their chances abroad, rather than waiting for austerity politics to transform the nation into an economic El Dorado. It’s a trend that has seen the adventure travel industry grow an incredible 65% year-on-year since 2009. Throw a stone in your office and you’ll likely hit any number of junior staff members eager to beguile you with tales of their ‘gap year’ to Asia. But, for those desiring more from their trip than the perfect selfie outside Angkor Wat, choosing a life of exploration is becoming an increasingly viable career option, albeit one fraught with uncertainties. But before selling up and heading off, a key question remains: must a life of adventure negate the possibility of ever owning a house, or having a family and career? And does the freedom on offer really outweigh these financial concerns?

CALL OF THE WILD Ed Stafford, Ben Fogle, Sean Conway and James Martyr are but four of a handful of men still making their living by pitting themselves against nature

74 MEN’S HEALTH

STEPS TO FREEDOM Sean Conway plots your path to adventure 1\ Pick your destination, do the research, then buy a map and put it on the wall next to your bed. 2\ Go public. Tell your friends and the local radio and TV stations. It will stop you backing out and help with fundraising. 3\ Calculate your budget then save up. Sell your belongings, move back home, crowd fund, apply for grants*. 4\ Get fit. The experience will be much more enjoyable if you’re in shape, which bolsters your mental strength at the same time. 5\ When it’s time to go, remember that – even on the hardest trips – you need to take it one step at a time. The world awaits.

in the most hostile of environments. Unlike Mason and his contemporaries, it isn’t hidden treasures or unearthed cities these men seek, but the cachet of becoming the first man to trek the South Pole, climb the three major peaks of the Himalayas in record time, or swim the length of a country. Today, the holy grail of adventure is no longer knowledge, but experiencing vistas only an elite will ever know. Crucially, they’re also reinforcing the idea that a life spent travelling can become a feasible career path. It was a stint in the Scouts that instilled Stafford with a sense of wanderlust, while two years in the British Army compounded the practicalities required of an expedition leader. In 2008, after scrabbling around for sponsors and putting in £13,000 of his own money, he set off to walk the length of the Amazon. A National Geographic cover boosted his profile, catching the eye of The Discovery Channel, and an audacious idea for a television show was born in which Stafford was abandoned on desert islands without even the clothes on his back. Unsurprisingly, the publicity around the show – titled Ed Stafford: Naked And Marooned – was enough to warrant a further Discovery Channel contract and from there Stafford’s fame has grown. In theory, a military background like Stafford’s should facilitate an easy transition to fulltime adventurer – see Grylls, Fiennes et al – yet, increasingly, more and more men taking up the call lack formal survival training, often planning their first expeditions from Civvy Street. Having risen to prominence on BBC reality show Castaway 2000, Ben Fogle made the jump from unknown to television presenter, before putting his savings into a trans-Atlantic row in 2005. The trip was financially wounding but served to raise Fogle’s profile within the adventure community, facilitating further sponsorship for a second race, this time across the South Pole. By branching out into corporate speaking and expanding his television portfolio, Fogle has gradually been able to attract increasingly substantial sponsors.

CASE STUDY

01 THE ECCENTRIC ESCAPOLOGIST After quitting the rat race aged 30, Sean Conway sold his photography business and set off to complete the first ‘Ultimate Triathlon’ over the length of Great Britain Age: 35 Based: The Cotswolds Marital status: Single What are your monthly outgoings? £500. I’m not carrying any debt and live a simple life, so I don’t have to budget. At present I live on a boat and getting on the property ladder is low on my list of priorities. What do we overspend on that isn’t necessary? Electronics and gadgets – basically anything designed to make our lives easier. What’s been your largest personal investment in an expedition? I had to move in with my mum for a while, but money-wise, I have been lucky enough to work with some fantastic sponsors who provided me with the kit and equipment that I need. What impact did your first book deal have on your career? It helped me pay off a £10,000 debt that I had accrued from a previous adventure. Have sponsorships taken the pressure off raising expedition funds? Yes. Books and talks have become my regular source of income, but I have grown adept at spending less. If you really want to save money, living on £5 a day in the UK is completely doable. Are you saving for retirement? I’m hoping to put away the income I get from my future books to use for when – and if – I choose to retire. MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

*TRY THE SEAN CONWAY ADVENTURE SCHOLARSHIP | †SOURCES: US NATIONAL HEART, LUNG AND BLOOD INSTITUTE; ACADEMY OF MANAGEMENT

In 1961, Oxford graduate Richard Mason set out to become the first man to chart the Iriri River,


THE ECONOMIC$ OF ADV£NTURE

03

People who have lived in three or more countries demonstrate improved ‘cognitive flexibility’ – key to creativity†

CASE STUDY DY

02

THE EXPEDITION LEADER

GUTTER CREDIT

TThhe Di Disc scov sc over ov eryy Ch Chaan annel’ anne l’ss Na Nake ked ked a forrme m r ar army my AAnnd nd M Maaro rooon oned oned ed saw offfic ficer e Ed Staf er Sttaf a foord spe pend 60 daays ys aloone on a de dese s rt se r isl slan lan a d w thou wi thhoouut ut a knniffe, sup u pl plie iees or a si sing ngle ng le pai le airr of o trous roous user erss er Age: 40 Based: Leicestershire Marital status: Married What are your monthly outgoings? I have a mortgage and spend a lot on food – perhaps £250 a week. What do we overspend on that isn’t necessary? I try not to be careless with money. Waste revolts me – thriftiness (weirdly) turns me on. I once made a single disposable razor last for the entire length of a six-month military tour. What’s been your largest personal investment in an expedition? Walking the Amazon cost £103,000 – £13,000 of which I’d saved

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

myself. By chance I met the CEO of a recruitment company who asked if he could provide a portion of the remaining balance. I learned that when you relax and engage people, things are far more likely to fall into place. What impact did your first book deal have on your career? There isn’t much money in publishing these days unless you’re JK Rowling. But it does give some weight to your stature as an explorer. Have sponsorships taken the pressure off raising expedition funds? Yes – but buying a house and getting married put the financial pressures back on. Long-term I’ll be making my own money – not asking for handouts. Are you saving for retirement? I’m buying properties. That’s my pension. But I won’t retire. It’s a sure way to accelerate senility and decrease your sense of purpose in life. MEN’S HEALTH 75


CASE STUDY

THE OPEN-ROAD UPSTART

A foour ur-d -day -d ay dri rive ve to Ro Rome me igni ig nite ni tedd fo te form rmer er mar arke k ti ke ting ng exec ex ec Jam mes e Mar arty tyyr’ r’ss pa pass ssio i n io for th thee ex exot otic ot icc. Af Afte terr se te sell lllin ingg hiis po his p ss sses essi es sion si ionns he hea e deed to Sou outh th Eas astt As Asia ia,, fo ia forg rgoi oing oi ngg Lone nely ne ly Pla ly l ne nett cro r wd w t e Lo th forr tr fo trav avel av e and tra el rava v il va ilss faar from fr om the h beaateen pa path t th

Age: 27 Based: Currently a 4x4 in the Australian outback. Marital status: Travelling with my girlfriend. What are your monthly outgoings? Day to day I live cheaply: I don’t have a phone contract and in some countries you can get accommodation and food for under a tenner. I don’t have a mortgage, but including student loan, I’m in debt to the tune of £4000.

What do we overspend on that isn’t necessary? Clothes. When I left the UK I got rid of 99% of my possessions. I moved in with my mum and spent most of my time in the gym as this was a relatively cheap activity. What’s been your largest personal investment in an expedition? Flights. I hunt around for deals and take circuitous routes to save money. Visas can also cost a few hundred pounds. A decent backpack is another

essential. A good one can cost around £100. Do you have any sponsors? No, but the dream is to be sponsored in exploration or travel photography. Are you saving for retirement? No. Are you worried that adventuring has set you back career-wise? Not at all. Before I left I had a good job, an apartment, a car – the normal stuff. There’s no reason I couldn’t come back and work for those things.

£4.7m

The estimated net worth of adventurer and author Bear Grylls. Something to work up to, then

GUTTER CREDIT

03


THE ECONOMIC$ OF ADV£NTURE Zimbabwean Sean Conway may not have as recognisable a name, but he prides himself on having carved out a niche in the market without a military or athletic background. Since selling his photography business for £1 just after his 30th birthday, Conway has pursued cheap but physically demanding challenges, becoming the first man to swim, then cycle, then run the length of the UK. To fund his first trip, Conway sold off his possessions, and now lives on a boat. Until recently, 27-year-old James Martyr shared Conway’s dissatisfaction, eking out a humdrum existence before deciding there had to be more to life than adjusting spreadsheets. He moved in with his parents, sold his belongings and hit the road. “From a very early age we’re taught to follow a predetermined path: go to school, go to university, get a job, get a house and plan for retirement. This made me feel hugely discontented,” says Martyr. “If you want to explore, go and do it. If it doesn’t work out at least you tried.”

taking home £8000 less than their predecessors. “The median annual salary for 18 to 29-year-olds has fallen 15% over the last 12 years,” says Peter Bowman, head of economics at London’s School of Economic Science. “Younger generations are being denied decent jobs and the opportunity to own their own home,” he continues. “And, as a result, they seem to value experience over possessions.” In actuality, the fundamentals of scraping together an adventure kitty – moving in with mum, jettisoning all of your material possessions and ringing round every company in the area for sponsorship – may at present be the most tenable option. “Periods of lower earnings are actually the best time to take time out to travel, because financially you are giving up less,” says Alexander Joshi, an economic analyst at London Economics. Which, in the post-Brexit economy, could mean it’s a good time to start shopping for a backpack. But, as with any endeavour, when it comes to adventure, accounting for financial down periods is essential. “I haven’t made the mistake many adventurers have of being out of pocket between trips – I plan ahead and make sure there is money there,” Stafford says. But even at the top of the ladder, an intrepid career is rarely economically stable, with funding far from guaranteed

“INVESTMENT IN YOURSELF WILL ALWAYS PROVIDE THE BEST RETURNS”

MEN WHO WOULD BE KING Recent financial statistics offer a plausible explanation for this growing disaffection. A report by the Resolution Foundation found millennials are likely to be the first group to earn less than the previous generation, with Britain’s current crop

and a large, unforeseen personal expenditure or a sponsor suddenly experiencing cold feet derailing the bestlaid plans. In short: it’s both a literal and figurative jungle out there. “It’s important to realise that any adventure always has its costs but these costs never outweigh the experience,” says Aldo Kane, a former Royal Marine sniper who now works providing security for TV and film crews worldwide. “Making it work comes down to planning, budget and execution.” Ultimately, to agonise over money is to somewhat miss the point. While attracting sponsors and budgeting for a trip are hugely important, an element of risk is inherent. Otherwise, like the backpacking crowd, you’re simply travelling. As in work, as in life, to achieve remarkable feats, one has to set aside concerns and follow their instincts. Ironically, it’s an economist who best sums this up: “Investment in yourself is the best investment that you can make,” says Joshi. “Be it through education or gaining life experience, an investment into developing your own human capital will always provide you with the largest returns.” A tightening of the belt now might not be an attractive prospect, but a life of adventure is about combating hardships on all fronts. Succeed in conquering mountains, tracing rivers and trekking into the unknown, and the knowledge of your feats will stay with you forever. And that, at least, has to be better than another day in the office.

CASE STUDY

04

THE TV STAPLE

Home counties charm and stints on Countryfilee may have positioned Ben Fogle as your mother’s favourite outdoorsman, but rowing the Atlantic, completing the Marathon des Sables and racing across the South Pole have more than verified his adventure credentials

Age: 42 Based: London Marital status: Married with two children. What are your monthly outgoings? A family has a huge impact on expenditure. I am terrible with money and hand over all finances to my wife. What do we overspend on that isn’t necessary? Everything. On an expedition, simple things such as food, water, battery life and sleep become valuable.

What’s been your largest personal investment in an expedition? Apart from a few sponsors, James [Cracknell, Fogle’s rowing partner] and I had to use our own savings to finance the Atlantic race, including spending a small fortune on the boat we used. What impact did your first book deal have on your career? I used the advance to travel to remote islands from Pitcairn to St Helena. This informed my next book, The Teatime Islands.

Have sponsorships taken the pressure off raising expedition funds? Sponsorship is still a struggle. I just had to postpone a planned expedition later this year due to a lack of funding. I would love to have one big sponsor who helps me for life, but 15 years in the business have taught me that is a little unlikely. Are you saving for retirement? I hope my wife is. I do tend to live by the seat of my pants but adventure is a risky game, so it always pays to have a back-up plan. MEN’S HEALTH 77


H O M E I M P R OV E M E N T

(GYM)

IMPROVEMENT Constructing a comprehensive home fitness set-up takes more than installing a static bike in the spare room and calling it a job well done. This 40-step instruction manual is designed to optimise your floor space, whatever form you wish to upgrade and whatever your budget. All you need to get started is the right equipment. And a little elbow grease WORDS: JACK HART | ILLUSTRATIONS: FLYING CHILLI

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KIT GUIDE FIG .0 1

LEVEL-UP YOUR STRENGTH If you’re doing press-ups at every opportunity, these rotating handles – designed to engage a wider range of muscle than your average set of 20 – are your new best friends, and can be stored neatly in your bottom desk drawer. Fitness Mad Rotating Push-Up Handles £23.99 dolphinfitness.co.uk

FIG .02

FIG .03

UNSET TLE YOURSELF

THE HOME STRETCH

The classic gym ball turns linear moves into cross-core sculpting sessions. Plus, it makes a smug hipster chair when you’re at risk of dropping off after lunch. Men’s Health Gym Ball £12.99 argos.co.uk/menshealth

If you don’t dedicate time to recovery, your gains will fast become knotted. This hand-held stick loosens up hard to reach places when stretching room is tight. Trigger Point Grid STK Roller £25 wiggle.co.uk

FIG .06

THE STABILIT Y STEP-UP FIG .04

FIG .05

THE ALL-BAR-ONE

EXPANSION PLANS

This removable bar is all you need for calisthenics holds and progressions while doubling as an incline stand for press-ups and dips. Men’s Health Door Trainer £24.99 argos.co.uk/menshealth

This dumbbell holds between 5kg and 32.5kg, giving you access to a whole range of weights – and possibilities – in a single piece of kit. Bodymax Selectabell Dumbbell £329.99 powerhouse-fitness.co.uk

For minimalist workouts focusing on core strength and balance, a floor beam is a simple yet essential purchase. The innocuous carpet finish won’t interfere with your office feng shui, either. Niels Larsen Carpeted Floor Beam £173.28 newitts.com

THE HOME OFFICE M O B I L I T Y S TAT I O N Mix work with athleisure. This kit is fit for the most modern of home office spaces, letting you work hard in both senses

FIG .09 FIG .07

FIG .08

GO RETRO

MUSCLE FIX AND CHILL

You’re unlikely to have room for a bench in your oasis of calm, but a chest expander will let you flex without overloading your muscles – or floorboards. Lonsdale Chest Expander £9.50 sportsdirect.com

Freezing this stainless steel roller creates a tool combining the powers of self-myofascial release with anti-inflammatory cooling. DOMS has its work cut out. Trigger Point Cold Roller £78 thephysiotable.co.uk

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CORE EXPANSION Pushing your abs through their full range of motion is the only way to achieve comprehensive definition, and using an ab wheel negates the need to hook your feet under your desk for awkward lunchtime sit-ups. Apollo Ab Wheel £4.99 newitts.com

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H O M E I M P R OV E M E N T FIG .10

FIG .11

VIVA LA REVOLUTION

RACK UP NEW MUSCLE

A CrossFit favourite, this bike comes with a sadistic caveat: the more effort you put in, the more resistance is generated. Thankfully, it’s so good looking you won’t mind leaving the door open when you're training. Note: the fact no one’s watching is not an excuse to slow down. Wolverson Fitness Air Assault Bike £860 wolverson-fitness.co.uk

Another impressively heavy hitter, this rig will help you master calisthenic muscle builders from pull-ups to leg raises in the privacy of your garage. So turn the stereo up loud and prepare for a selfadministered beasting. Bodymax CF360 VR Pull-Up and Dip Tower, £104.99 powerhouse-fitness.co.uk

FIG .14

PAD UP Pushing for PBs through injury will have you spending more time on the sofa than doing squats. This padded protector keeps your spine, shoulders, and confidence intact. Bodymax Barbell Pad Neck Protector £9.99 powerhousefitness.co.uk

T H E U LT I M AT E GAR AG E BOX Jettison your clutter and your garage becomes perfect for CrossFit-inspired sessions. Park the car elsewhere FIG .18

DON YOUR RUNNING SHORTS This isn’t Tony Soprano’s basement, so trade in your run of the mill machine for something more modern (and punishing). A curved track with varying resistance levels makes interval training seem just that bit better. Technogym Skillmill Console £8050 technogym.com

FIG .16

FIG .17

THE ELASTIC ASSET

THE CALL TO ARMS

Bring some life to your deadlifts by looping one end of a resistance band under your feet and the other over each end of your barbell. Jordan Fitness Power Band £18.99 fitness-superstore.co.uk

Presses with a neutral grip relieve shoulder stress, ensuring that your garage becomes ‘the pain cave’ in the safest sense. Body Power Olympic Tricep Bar £37.99 fitness-superstore.co.uk

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KIT GUIDE FIG .13

COMBAT STRESS What’s a garage for if not blowing off steam after work? Both basic and invaluable, this punch bag narrows in the middle, forming a natural target for perfecting your uppercuts. We’ll let your imagination do the rest. Body Power Punch Bag £79.99 fitness-superstore.co.uk

FIG .12

THE SHOWSTOPPER If you have the room – not to mention the funds – this multi-functional rig contains everything you need for bodyweight and weighted workouts. With a set-up like this at home, you’ll cash in the money you’re saving on gym memberships. Beaverfit Wall Mounted FTR Training Rig £3960 newitts.com FIG .15

THE FULL PLATE Adding weighted plates to your workout is an easy way to do more in small spaces, staving off any plateaus, and keeping your progression on an upward trajectory (and we don’t mean through the roof).

WITH THANKS TO CROSSFITPERPETUA.COM AND POWERHOUSE-FITNESS.CO.UK

MyProtein Dipping Belt £20.49 myprotein.com

FIG .19

FIG .20

TRI AND SUCCEED

ROW IT ALONE

Another excuse to dig in and shun life outside of your mancave, this curl bench will help you foster growth where it counts, without the need to choose between an armchair and your kitchen table. Powerline Preacher Curl Bench £129 fitness-superstore.co.uk

Designed for cross-country skiers, this static machine forces you to employ your large muscle groups to row the handles down. It's exactly as tough as it sounds, which makes this a machine best used with the garage door fully closed. Concept2 SkiErg £700 concept2.co.uk

FIG .2 1

THE OVER-ALL OVERHAUL With everything you need for chest press, pull-ups, leg exercises and more, this home gym set-up is anything but basic. Remember, you’ll need to leave the garage eventually to eat, sleep and remind your better half you still exist. Men’s Health Home Gym £249.99 argos.co.uk/menshealth

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H O M E I M P R OV E M E N T

FIG .22

FIG .23

FIG .24

PRESS YOUR CORE

PUT THE KET TLE ON

HIT THE BENCH

Press-ups are the pro-grappler’s staple, but to go up a class, get hold of this curved bar to reduce stability, forcing you to engage your entire core to compensate. ProForm Triceps and Push-Up Stand £21.99 argos.co.uk

Gaining ground as a go-to training tool for combat sports, kettlebells promote ballistic movements. This one lets you swing between 1kg and 9kg. PowerBlock KettleBlock £99.65 newitts.com

Shift that wardrobe and you’ve room for one of the most useful kit investments around, with flexible flat, incline and decline settings. Bodymax CF328 Deluxe Bench £119.99 powerhouse-fitness.co.uk

FIG .25

WEIGH UP YOUR OPTIONS You might have the space for bodyweight movements, but if you don’t keep pushing yourself, your workouts will quickly become by-thenumbers. This 10kg resistance vest will help you level up.

T H E S PA R E R O O M O C TA G O N With a little more space, the following forms your combat-ready fitness retreat, for a spare room set-up not to be slept on

Men’s Health Weighted Vest £54.99 argos.co.uk/menshealth

FIG .26

THE BIG DIPPER Or actually, just about the right size for the corner of your spare room. Complete with bars and de-stabilising Olympic rings, this will force your arms to rope in a greater range of muscle fibres, leading to complex definition from a simple piece of kit.

FIG .27

GET A JUMP START Crashing furniture and bruised limbs do not make for a good combination – or a happy girlfriend. Give the chest of drawers a rest and practise your dips on these stackable boxes instead. Soft Plyo Boxes £91.99 gymequipment.co.uk

Pro Fitness Dip Station £64.99 argos.co.uk/menshealth

FIG .28

THE TEA-TIME TOP UP Saving your attempts at a new PB for the gym is advisable. This set is big enough to make you sweat, but light enough to get inside. Men’s Health Olympic Weight Set £149.99 argos.co.uk/menshealth

FIG .3 1

BE A BEDROOM BALBOA

FIG .29

GET STACKED

FIG .30

Plyometric boxes encourage explosive power in your legs and core, but as these are vinyl-coated, you're unlikely to go through the ceiling should you get carried away. Jordan Functional Training Block £83.47 newitts.com

Beloved of beginners and gym vets, these rubber dumbbells help perfect compound lifts and isolation exercises, and are designed to brush off floorboard scuffs. Escape SBX Dumbbells

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DESIGN LIF T

For something a little more rapid-fire, this speedball requires both coordination and accuracy, but is difficult to master for the amateur pugilist, so resist the urge to show off to the extended family until you’ve cracked it. ProBox Club Speedball £89.99 geezersboxing.co.uk

£126 newitts.com

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KIT GUIDE FIG .32

THE REDGRAVE ULTIMATUM Invoke House of Cards vibes with this beech rower designed to increase resistance as you up the pace. A word of warning: treat this like your road bike – if you're going to leave it outside, buy a good tarpaulin. WaterRower Beech Rowing Machine £949 powerhousefitness.co.uk

FIG .33

FIG .34

THROW THE LINE

BACK TO BASICS

A weighted ball will bring your ab-work full circle. But if you're using a neighbour’s wall for medicine ball throws, at least wait until they’re at work. SKLZ Performance Medicine Ball £59.99 brandfusionltd.co.uk

Skipping burns up to 13kcal a minute*, so hop to it. Grass is easier on the ankles than wood, and you’re less likely to take out a light fitting in the process. SKLZ Weighted Jump Rope £19.99 brandfusionltd.co.uk

FIG .37

THROW YOUR WEIGHT

FIG .35

FIG .36

BUILD SOME TIMBER

THE RING MASTER

The ViPR is the best tool for working on both full-body strength and injury prevention, with the added bonus of making you feel just a little bit like a lumberjack, too. ViPR £132 originfitness

For a more complete range of suspended movements, take your rings outside. All you need is something to hang them from – a branch will do it. Men’s Health Gymnastic Rings £19.99 argos.co.uk/menshealth

To save you lugging your barbell outside, opt for this 35kg sandbag for a weight with added instability, geared to the same manoeuvres, and with more freedom to throw it about without breaking something. Jordan Sandbag Pro 5 £46.99 gymkituk.com

THE OUTDOOR O LY M P I C A R E N A Dynamic, athletic efforts demand space, so push the BBQ aside and convert your garden into a medal-worthy training ground

*THE COMPENDIUM OF PHYSICAL ACTIVITIES

FIG .38

THE LAWN LASHER With a bit of room to fling ropes around, you can really get stuck in, fostering upper body strength while supercharging metabolism through high intensity conditioning. Just watch the washing line. Body Solid Battle Rope £139.99 fitness-superstore.co.uk

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FIG .39

FIG .40

THE CROWD PLEASER

ROPE IN REWARDS

Weighing in at 12kg, this adapted sandbag is the perfect tool for developing your fast-twitch muscle fibres. PowerWave 2.0 Spartan Weighted Training Bag £125 gripp.co.uk

Focusing on strength rather than speed, this 30lb rope is filled with sand, which shifts as you lift to destabilise your centre of gravity. Best avoid the patio. Hyperwear SandRope £213.99 gymequipment.co.uk

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H O M E I M P R OV E M E N T

YO U R H O M E GY M USER’S GUIDE BUDGE T

BUDGE T

£500

£1000

E N T RY- L E V E L POSITIONS

U PWA R D MOBILITY

With £500 to play with, strength coach Sam Pepys’ (sampepys.com) affordable selection combines a heavy bar with dynamic tools for fast-but-effective muscle-sculpting circuits. Best grab a towel...

Limiting your kit might save space, but monotony will hamper motivation. Given £1000, muay thai pro David Tieu (alex-fitness.co.uk) opts for a smart set-up, combining resistance training and recovery

THE KIT

THE KIT

FIG .33

FIG .28

FIG .38

SKLZ Performance Medicine Ball

Men’s Health Olympic Weight Set w/ barbell

Body Solid Battle Rope

£59.99

£ 14 9.99

£ 139.99

FIG .38

FIG .3 1

FIG .23

Body Solid Battle Rope

ProBox Club Speedball

PowerBlock KettleBlock

£ 139.99

£89.99

£99.65

TOTAL ............................................................................... £349.97

THE MOVES A

A

B

FIG .16

FIG .08

Jordan Fitness Power Band

Trigger Point Cold Roller

£ 18.99

£25

B A B

i/ DEADLIFT 3 X 10 REPS, NO REST

ii/ MB WALL THROW 3 X 8 REPS, NO REST

iii/ BATTLE ROPES 3 X 30SEC, 2MIN REST

Start each round with the king of compound moves, firing all of your major muscle groups. Keep your back straight as you lift the bar from the ground (A), pushing your hips forward (B).

As soon as you're done with the deadlifts, stand side-on to a wall, a metre away (A). Swing the med ball across your body (B) and throw it, catching it on the bounce. Complete four reps on each side.

Last up: alternate waves. With your knees bent, back straight, lift and drop each end in turn – right (A), then left (B). Tense your core and aim for fast movements, not lunging, loping waves.

84 MEN’S HEALTH

FIG .28

FIG .2 1

FIG .13

Men’s Health Olympic Weight

Men’s Health Gym Bench

Body Power PU Punch Bag

£ 149.99

£249.99

£ 79.99

T OTAL ....................................................................... £853.59

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KIT GUIDE

W your DIY training set-up complete and With motivation renewed, this is how to put your new installation to good use. Cut out and keep these budget-friendly workouts and bring physical transformation back home BUDGE T

T MOVES THE O S A

£1500

A

B B

i/ JAB-CROSS B CROSS 3 X 2MIN, 30SEC REST

ii/ SPEEDBALL 3 X 2MIN, 30SEC REST

Side-on to a punch bag, hands raised (A), jab with your right hand (B) then swing a hook with your left. Repeat this combo for 90sec before switching sides.

Now to condition your shoulder and arms. Keep your hands high, close to the speedball. Punch with your left hand (A), drawing it back slightly to hit with your right (B).

WEIGHTED A S P I R AT I O N S With a generous £1500 at his disposal, Charlie Hagan, head PT at Hagan & Pappin (haganandpappin.com), selects high-end gear for a functional workout that guarantees strength and fitness. Time for a clear out THE KIT

A A B B

iii/ LANDMINE DMINE 3 X 12 REPS, 30SEC REST

iv/ BATTLEE ROPES 3 X 30SEC, 30SEC REST

Wedge a weighted bar into a corner. With knees slightly bent, push the end overhead with your lleft f arm ((A)) then loower ((B). Repeat, switch hing sides halff way throough.

These will spike your metabolism to shred fat and build a fightready physique. Lift both ropes at once (A), lashing down in a single p powerful movement ((B). )

FIG .11

FIG .28

FIG .2 1

FIG .30

FIG .10

Pull-Up and Dip Tower

Olympic Weight Set w/ barbell

Men’s Health Home Gym

Escape SBX Dumbbells

Wolverson Assault Bike

£ 104.99

£ 149.99

£249.99

£ 126

£860

T OTAL ......................................................................................................... £ 14 90.97

THE MOVES

i/ LEG RAISE 4 X 8 REPS, 15SEC REST B

B A B

A

A

A

v/ KB SHOULDER PRESS 3 X 12 REPS, 1MIN REST Sit on a bench holding a heavy kettlebell by your shoulder. Tensing your core (A), press it to full extension (B), then lower. Change hands; repeat to carve high definition.

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From a dead hang position (A), contract your abs so your legs rise up until parallel with the floor, toes flexed (B). Hold firm for as long as you can, then lower slowly.

ii/ SUMO DEADLIFT 4 X 8 REPS, 15SEC REST

A

B

The sumo lift decreases he move’s range of th motion, putting less prressure on your lower baack. In a wide stance (A), hinge at the hips to (A grab the bar and lift it gr too waist height (B).

vi/ COOL-DO COOL DOWN WN

iv/ INCLINE PRESS 4 X 8 REPS, 15SEC REST

i/ AIR ASSAULT BIKE 2MIN WORK, 2MIN REST

All done? Stretch your shoulders by hooking a band under your feet (A) and raising it overhead (B). Roll out your back, legs and arms with the Trigger Point to stay in fighting shape.

Lie back on a 45-degree bench, a DB in each hand, arms extended. Slowly lower each dumbbell to the sides of your chest (A); tense your core and glutes. Press back up (B).

A spin on the bike is perfect for developing your aerobic capacity without losing muscle mass. Grab the forward handles and pedal with your hands and feet at around 70% max HR.

B

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SPECIAL

REP O RT

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THE GREAT SUPERMARKET SWINDLE WORDS OLIVER THRING

PHOTOGRAPHY SUN LEE


IS THERE SOMETHING FISHY ABOUT SUPERMARKET LABELLING PRACTICES?

selling our e g fu r te b u s g n li Is food-label ith widespread W ? t r o h s s n o ti bi nutritional am in our bodies t u p e w t a h w n e e disconnect betw ribed on the packet, MH and what is prescsmall print investigates the


HOW MUCH BANGER ARE YOU REALLY GETTING FOR YOUR BUCK?

SPECIAL

BIRCH BROOK SAUSAGES PRODUCT OF POLAND

executive of the Soil Association, are just one ruse supermarkets pull to persuade us to spend more. As consumers become increasingly aware of the ethical and health implications of what we put in our baskets, bamboozling us into believing we are making nutritiously sound choices becomes an increasingly savvy marketing ploy. The question, then, is how can we arm ourselves to navigate the supermarket aisles without falling prey to such emotive traps? If you care about what you put into your body, if price matters and you are not unconcerned about the life of what you eat before it died, then what are you to do?

“FALSE FARMS ARE A RUSE SHOPS PULL TO GET US TO SPEND MORE”

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10/2016

MADE IN BRITAIN Meat labelling in the UK is now only slightly less confusing than it was when the horsemeat scandal bolted the stable doors in 2013, horrifying tabloids and broadsheets alike. Eleven firms – including Tesco and Asda – were found to have been unknowingly selling horsemeat in burgers and other products. At the time, 30% of some Tesco burgers contained equine DNA, with the market value of Britain’s largest retailer

collapsing by €360 million in the aftermath. It was a sorry farrago that highlighted both the opacity of the food chain and the ineffectiveness of labelling practices. Since then, some things have changed. Supermarkets are now required by law to include the country of origin on fresh meat labels, as well as where the animal was fattened and slaughtered (for cheaper meats, this may well be up to three different countries). Yet even a cursory glance at the UK government’s labelling guidelines suggests legislation around food packaging remains open to interpretation. According to the literature, food sold in the UK must show “any necessary warnings” and also include information on the product’s GM ingredient profile “unless their presence is accidental and 0.9% or less”. But who defines what an accidental amount of GM ingredients are in an otherwise GM-free product? And what sort of warnings are necessary to the average consumer? As an award-winning investigative journalist and the author of Swallow This, Joanna Blythman has made it her business to explore the obscure and technical language of the modern

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

FOOD STYLIST: LUCY-RUTH HATHAWAY

ry rolling these names across your tongue like fine single malt: Woodside, Boswell, Redmere, Rosedene. Aren’t they British and beautiful? Don’t they evoke the landscape our grandfathers fought for? A rustic Albion of sward, clover and dung, of haystuffed barns, busty milkmaids and a belching sorority of cows. And as you trudge down the chilly Tesco aisle – looking, perhaps, for a pork steak containing just the right combination of nutrients, at an acceptable price and for which the animal didn’t suffer too much – a serving of Woodside Farm pork, with the quaint associations of its name, might look and sound ideal. But there’s a problem. Woodside Farm does not exist. Not only that – there is no guarantee that the pork in the Woodside packet is even British. It may just as easily be Danish or Polish, or come from elsewhere in Europe entirely. Or possibly from Westeros. Woodside Farm – like the other designations listed above – is little more than a controversial and, some may argue, sinister branding exercise focused more on linguistic muscle flexing and loophole exploitation than any environmental or animal welfare concerns. Of course, Tesco is not the only company employing such tactics. Aldi’s ‘Ashfield Farm’ is not a real place, but a brand-name slapped onto chicken and beef. Even upscale Marks & Spencer places its salmon under the evocative ‘Lochmuir’ brand, though you’d be hard pushed to find it on a map. Meanwhile, you’d be forgiven for thinking its chickens have been hand-reared on its middle England-baiting Oakham™ farms – though, according to its website, this just equates to “specially selected, known and audited farms in the UK”. In short, across almost all supermarket branding, the reality of such places is often far removed from these broadly painted invocations of pastoral idylls. False farms, or “brands of convenience”, as labelled by Helen Browning, chief


THE GREAT SUPERMARKET SWINDLE

HARVEST REWARDS “Cheaper ranges often boast the same benefits as premium ones,” says nutritionist Jo Travers. Use her guide to know when to pay less or play safe

SAVE

Lamb It’s impossible to intensively farm lamb, as the animals need space and grass – great news for you both, then.

Frozen veg Freezing vegetables after picking is an excellent way to lock in crucial micronutrients, so don’t sniff at the freezer aisle.

food industry. “Meat labelling in the UK still leaves far too many questions unanswered,” she says over the phone. “Although fresh meat sold in Britain has to carry the country of origin on its label, processed meat does not: it just needs to say, for example, ‘pork’.” Blythman points out that if you buy a ready meal containing chicken, the meat will invariably – though not always – have been imported, frozen, from Thailand or Brazil. All of this raises important questions about its nutritional profile. (It is worth noting, for the record, that Men’s Health’s frozen meal range is made with British chicken and beef.) There’s more to this close reading than pedantry. By diving into a label’s small print we can arm ourselves to make the best possible nutritional choices. Consider chicken breasts. If you were to go to Iceland this afternoon and spend a fiver on a frozen 1.5kg bag of ‘The Butcher’s Market Chicken Breasts’, you might be surprised to discover that what lies inside is just 85% chicken. The remaining

15%, the label reveals, is water, salt and dextrose. So, anyone who buys this chicken breast believing it a source of lean protein should also know that a portion of what they are consuming is fattening and addictive. MH asked Iceland to comment on this. They responded via email, explaining that the water content was simply added to “maintain succulence”. Liz Tucker, health and nutritional advisor at Select Food (selectfood.co.uk), thinks otherwise. “Meat already contains fat to keep it succulent,” she says. “Plus, all food contains water, so adding more means the food is not just 15% overall water as suggested, but sometimes up to 50%.” As well as leeching out and likely shrinking the meat during cooking, this water content is doubly problematic, necessitating the addition of the salt and dextrose to hold the water in in the first place. “Typically, there’ll be 0.6g of salt per chicken breast, compared to 0.2g in one without additives,” says Jo Travers, the nutritional expert behind The London

THERE’S MORE THAN JUST MEAT BEING USED TO BEEF UP YOUR BURGERS

Pasta Organic pasta is made with fewer pesticides and chemicals, but high-end Italian brands remain non-organic and still taste great.

Milk A Newcastle University study found that organic milk is 50% higher in omega-3 fats than traditional alternatives. SPECIAL

Sausages A lean banger is solid fitness fuel but skimping on price means your meat will include more bulking ingredients – and not the good sort.

REP O RT

10/2016

ORGANIC PATTIES ALMOST 65% BEEF

PAY

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MEN’S HEALTH 89


DON’T PLAY CHICKEN WITH YOUR NUTRITION

Nutritionist (thelondonnutritionist. co.uk). This equates to a tenth of your RDA – a significant amount from a supposedly innocuous food source. Processed beef products are another common offender. The ‘Everyday Value Beef Burgers’ currently for sale in your local Tesco contain just 63% beef – the label says so. This is because, by law, you can only call something a ‘beef burger’ if it contains at least 62% beef. Over a third of this product is therefore something other than cow – and here, that ‘something’ is mostly onion as well as flour mixed with calcium carbonate, which acts as a dough conditioner. After salt and dextrose comes a synthetically derived flavour enhancer described simply as ‘yeast extract’. “Anyone buying these burgers for all the nutritional benefits of lean beef may be disappointed,” explains Travers. As always, she advises, it’s worth casting an eye over the small print before buying.

ASSURED EATS The minutiae of meat labelling does not stop there. In Britain, many packets of fresh meat arrive emblazoned with a little badge featuring a red tractor

SUPERMARKET SWEEP Next time you fill up a basket, tick these terms off your list in your hunt to find a healthier dinner

Sodium Multiply this number by 2.5 to find the salt content of the product Total fat To protect your heart, this should be at least 70% mono or polyunsaturated Slow-grown A hipster chicken that beats organic and free-range in both nutrition and flavour Farm-fresh A marketing illusion. Dismiss

90 MEN’S HEALTH

superimposed onto a Union Jack, with the oddly opaque words: ‘Assured Food Standards’. Look around the supermarket and you might spot that the same ubiquitous vehicle has chugged its way onto cereal packets, even lager. The Red Tractor scheme – which the National Farmers’ Union launched in 2000 – aims to reassure consumers that any food bearing its stamp is safe to eat and produced in this country. But things are a little more complicated than that. A couple of years ago, Red Tractor launched a multimillion pound advertising campaign seeking to convince Britain that meat carrying the label was ‘high-welfare’. It contacted me, as a food journalist, to see for myself the luxurious conditions of a Red-Tractor pork farm. In Wiltshire I saw a farm in which adorable piglets skittered in open, straw-filled outdoor spaces, their mothers grunting protectively nearby, before they were moved to concrete pens indoors. I saw signs of stress – the pigs were biting each other’s tails and ears, for example – but all things considered, it seemed a pretty good life to lead before being turned into a sausage. There was one catch. Red Tractor either deliberately ignored or – if you’re feeling charitable – quietly forgot to heed my request to visit a standard Red Tractor farm. Instead, it sent me to an RSPCA Freedom Food farm – where the welfare standards are considerably higher. It was a revealing omission that said much about Red Tractor’s own belief in its claims to be ‘high-welfare’. The reality is that a Red Tractor on the label tells you almost nothing about animal welfare and little about quality. A chicken raised in a Red Tractor chicken farm likely spent its entire life in a space no bigger than the page you are holding now. The adverts were eventually banned by the Advertising Standards Authority after complaints from animal welfare charity Compassion in World Farming along with hundreds of members of the public. Red Tractor declined to comment on the specifics of this trip when contacted by MH, but did offer some general commentary on its overall practices, namely that “food bearing the Red Tractor logo has been produced to some of the most comprehensive and respected standards in the world,” adding that a team of experts constantly reviews these standards to ensure they “reflect the best new thinking”. Tucker is of the opinion

SPECIAL

REP O RT

10/2016

FARM-FRESH CHICKEN NO WELFARE GUARANTEES

that such wording must be cleared up. “We will always need mass-produced food, but if the consumer knew how it was produced they would demand higher standards.”

“LABELS SUCH AS ‘ORGANIC’ HAVE LITTLE TO DO WITH HEALTH CLAIMS”

NATURE VS NURTURE

For many concerned about both nutrition and animal welfare, organic is the farming process of choice – indeed the British Soil Association sets stringent rules for anything so labelled. But as Tucker explains, even this tag isn’t clear cut. In actuality, many farms that are operating to organic standards cannot afford to be registered organic, allowing bigger producers to corner

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THE GREAT SUPERMARKET SWINDLE

GROWTH ECONOMY

£92bn The value of the entire food and drink industry in the UK

heart and brain-protecting omega-3. For higher welfare chicken this was up to 565% greater than the cheaper alternative, with the same quality of beef showing an average 430% increase in the nutrient. Free-range and pasture-produced meat and dairy were also demonstrated to have a far superior antioxidant profile: for instance, higher welfare beef packs an astonishing 700% more betacarotene– an essential antioxidant found to reduce risk of heart disease and some cancers – than budget options.

WHOLE FOODS

£1.79bn The value of the organic food and drink market in the UK

the market. And the bigger the outfit, the greater the opportunity to bend the rules. “I would not get too obsessed with organic,” says Tucker. “It’s becoming more common for large-scale factory farms to add an organic range because they can just use the same sheds and change the feed and pens.” Essentially, without constant observation, it’s almost impossible to see which farms adhere to the rules, and which are simply playing the system. An additional problem for consumers is that food labels rarely appear in isolation, with false farm labels often appearing beside ‘organic’ or ‘freerange’ designations. This only serves to muddy matters further. “Where a false farm is involved, it’s difficult to compare nutritional content even among meat with the same branding,” says Travers.

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“One week the meat might come from a farm in Spain, the next from a farm in Denmark, where conditions could vary.” Nutritionist Dr Laura Thomas explains via email that the general consensus among nutritional scientists is that labels such as organic, free-range and Red Tractor are but another layer of marketing bluster to be peeled away, and “have little to do with the nutrition or health claims that can be made about a food.” But Tucker disagrees, positing free-range as the most nourishing option for both man and animal. The idea that ‘you are what you eat’ applies to our food as much as it does us. “The key macro-nutritional issue is what an animal is fed on, as this will determine what nutrients will be found in its meat,” says Tucker. In 2012, Compassion in World Farming – a charity set up to end factory farming – analysed over 200 independent studies into whether improved animal welfare provides an increased nutritional profile. It found clear links in three key areas. Firstly, higher animal welfare equates to a lower fat content, with pasture-reared beef containing 50% less saturated fat than its intensively reared brethren. Meanwhile, slower-growing chickens are up to 15% leaner than both free-range and organic alternatives. Secondly, the CWF report found that although the fat content of higher welfare meat is lower, it contains a drastically increased percentage of

Whether you opt for free-range or not, Ffinlo Costain, the European project manager for a campaign called Labelling Matters, believes that supermarkets must be more active in ensuring that the labels in their stores better reflect the realities behind production. “The supermarkets claim that it’s all up to the retailers. My view is that they should take some responsibility for the brands they stock.” MH asked key supermarkets to comment on their false farm ranges and plans to clear up food labelling. Tesco, Lidl and Marks & Spencer all stressed that the country of origin for their respective false farm products is clearly labelled on the packaging, while Aldi outlined a commitment to ensure all produce sold under its Wood Farm brand would be 100% British by March 2017. Despite this, supermarket food labelling proves to be almost exhaustingly dubious, with variable interpretations extending to even the most rudimentary of definitions, all of which continues to be problematic for your nutritional health. Unless the label specifically tells you otherwise, the meat will be factory-farmed. Doubtless your ‘farm-fresh’ eggs came from some kind of farm, though it’s unlikely to be of the nursery rhyme variety. And when a label boasts that “no artificial preservatives, flavours or colours” have been added, the key word is not “no” but “artificial”. To read a food label in a supermarket is to stumble into a world that might be regulated, yet is far from transparent. Until legislation changes, both supermarkets and suppliers are free to continue making the most of our romantic rural associations, with a corresponding impact on our health. Many of us never quite move past our fuzzy understanding of a farm as an idyl resembling Old MacDonald’s. The reality – as scandal after scandal has shown – is very different.

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MAN

V BEASTS OF BURDEN 01\ Horses might win at a canter, but humans are purpose-built for endurance, requiring fewer rest stops than their equine opponents


VS In a tiny town in mid-Wales, just north of the Brecon Beacons, there takes place one of the most peculiar events in the endurance race calendar: the Man Vs Horse Marathon. MH travels to Powys to find out whether two legs can ever match four

GGUT GU UUTTTTE TER EERR CCRRED EEDI DDIIT

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IT IS 45 MINUTES INTO THE RACE WHEN THE FRONT-RUNNERS FIRST HEAR THE RUMBLE OF HORSES’ HOOVES BEHIND THEM.

ROUGH RIDE 02\ The bond between rider and horse leads to an instinctive feel for their terrain. For the human competitors, it’s every man for himself

02 A woman’s voice rises above the tumult – “Coming through! Woah, girl, woah!” – followed by a high-pitched whinny. The men at the back of the column turn to find a horse rearing above them, legs prancing and nostrils flared. As the nearest runners dive off the path into a nearby bog, the rider falls to the ground, landing on her shoulder and rolling away. For a second, runners and riders alike hold their breaths. When horses and people collide, the results can be fatal. But moments later, the apparently unharmed rider leaps to her feet, grabs the reins and expertly brings her steed under control. “Sorry about that, everyone OK?” she smiles. “Lovely day. See you at the finish line!” And with

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that, she remounts and gallops off through the stream, disappearing over the crest of a hill. The scene is Llanwrtyd Wells, a small town in mid-Wales on the River Irfon. With a population of just 850, it is officially the second smallest town in the UK. Historically known as a spa town, today it’s perhaps more renowned for two of Britain’s most unorthodox sporting events: the World Bog Snorkeling Championship and the annual Whole Earth Man Vs Horse Marathon. While both events hold a certain oddball intrigue, it is the latter MH has come to observe. The event – which at 22 miles long is technically not quite a marathon – starts in the town centre before looping through hilly farm tracks, worn footpaths, free-flowing brooks, emerald dales and

open moorland. It is against this arcadian backdrop that humans pit their wits against horses, and sometimes – against all odds – finish the victors.

UP AND OVER Vying man against beast is as old as sport itself. Roman gladiators fought lions. Matadors take on bulls. The American sprinter Jesse Owens once raced a horse over 100m (and won). Today’s event seeks to keep the eccentric tradition alive. The idea came about late one November night in 1979, at The Neuadd Arms, when landlord Gordon Green found himself in an argument with a local champion huntsman. “I contended a man would win over a long-enough

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MAN VS HORSE 03

MOUNTING TENSION 03-05\ Competitors wait at the startline, as fun-runners and para-athletes queue up alongside pro Ironmen. Even the Royal Marines field two relay teams (above) – which is appropriate given that this year’s marathon took place on the Queen’s birthday weekend

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HORSES FOR COURSES 06\ The 22-mile route is a hodgepodge of grassy fells, deep bogs, craggy valleys and rushing rivers – which gives the more agile two-legged competitors a narrow shot at victory

distance,” Green recalls. “But the other chap wasn’t having any of it. So I said to him, ‘Well, there’s only one way to settle this: a race!’” The first contest took place seven months later. How can a man outrun a horse? Well, horses may be larger, stronger and faster in a sprint, but it turns out humans are not as inferior as you might think. “We are the tortoises, not the hares, of the animal kingdom,” says Dan Lieberman, professor of evolutionary biology at Harvard University. “We have all kinds of evolutionary adaptations, from our heads to our toes, that make us superlative runners – abilities our ancestors developed two million years ago through persistence hunting when they chased animals down until they dropped dead.” Indeed, our propensity for longdistance running has given us our springy Achilles tendons, short toes, arched feet and a nuchal ligament at the back of our necks (to keep our heads still as we run). Then there’s the way we keep cool. “Millions of years ago, we swapped our fur for sweat glands, allowing us to dump heat while we run,” Lieberman says. “Horses can’t do that. They need to pant to cool down, which is impossible to do at a gallop.” This is why race officials insist on a 15-minute ‘vet break’ 11 miles into the race to make sure the horses’ body temperatures stay within safe levels. It also means hot weather favours the runners. Accordingly, it was sweltering when Huw Lobb became the first human to win the race in 2004, and again when German Florian Holzinger became the second to do so in 2007. But so far, that’s

07-09\ Humid conditions favour those without coats and the humans take the advantage, lowering their body temperature through sweating

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07

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MAN VS HORSE

“The terrain is scary. It can be wet, hot. You can slip or get trampled on” it. As of 2015, 34 out of a total 36 races had been won by horse power.

STRIDES AHEAD In Llanwrtyd Wells this race is serious business. But preparation differs markedly across the field of competitors. Geoff Allen, 64, has won the race four times, twice on his Egyptian Arab stallion, Leo. He prepares the night before competitions with a few pints of cider. “I don’t have to do any work,” he muses in the local pub, “just hold on tight and tell the horse where to go. It’s the runners that do the hard graft. And some of them are pretty quick.”

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Early next morning, 600 runners and 50 horses and riders mill about outside the same pub, where the race traditionally starts. Like their two-legged competitors, the horses come in myriad shapes and sizes. Some are elegant and thin like Leo; others look like they might be better-suited to pulling a cart in a Constable painting. Most of the runners are experienced amateurs or semi-pros for whom Man Vs Horse is just another race in their summer schedule. Welshman Hywel Davies is a 41-year-old running coach, Iron Man triathlete and one of the favourites to win on two feet. “I’ve just got back from two weeks in the Alps where I did a lot of fatigued off-road running,” he says. “That’s key for an event like this because the downhills are what really kill you. I’ve also been running a lot of steep alpine cols so my legs don’t give in at the bottom.” Davies loves the “purity” of Man Vs Horse. “It’s not like other marathons with water stations every two miles and people throwing gels at you. You don’t need any of that. I ate a quarter of a jar of peanut butter and a banana this morning. That’s it. A high-fat diet fuels you to run at an even pace for a long time. And if I need a drink, I’ll stop at a stream.” Brothers Gary and Ashley Buckle have taken part in Man Vs Horse every year for the last 19. Experience has taught them that training is not as vital as luck. “This is pure sport,” Gary contends, running through his warm-up lunges. “For one thing, the terrain is scary. It can be wet, hot, muddy. You can slip, slide, fall down a hill, not to mention get trampled by a horse.” “I nearly got swept away in a river once,” his brother Ashley cheerily affirms. “We do it for the kick,” Gary adds. “By which I mean the adrenaline, of course, not a boot from a horse.” In actual fact, over the race’s 37-year history, apart from the odd broken collarbone endured by fallen runners, there have been miraculously few injuries.

HUNTING PARTY The runners set off to a cheer at 11am, spectators lining the course. The horses set off 15 minutes later – a tactic to avoid scaring the animals in a melee of humans jostling to take an early lead. The runners will have 15 minutes subtracted from their time at the finish to make up for this additional quarter of an hour’s toil.

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10

“It sounds ridiculous doesn’t it? I run faster than horses” TRI HARD 10\ Hywel Davies, an Ironman triathlon veteran, is no stranger to extreme tests of fortitude. But being chased by a one-tonne horse stands alone


MAN VS HORSE ANIMAL INSTINCTS 11-13\ It’s easy to get lost in the wilds of the course, and neither riders nor runners are immune to wrong turns. But after a near-collision with a horse, Ross Macdonald (below) went on to find his way to victory in the human race

11

At the eight-mile mark, the first horses have begun to overtake the runners on a fell. Hooves pound the muddy grass as legs wobble and people stumble. Bewildered sheep scatter as horses and runners pass in an amorphous, muddled mass. Davies passes along with a Buckle brother. But there’s still no sign of Allen, or his mount, Leo. Finally, man and horse reappear, Allen shouting to his waiting son, “I took a wrong turn, didn’t I? I had my head down galloping and suddenly sheep started scrambling away from me. I thought, ‘This isn’t right’ and looked back to see nobody there. I can’t believe it.” As Allen Jr spurs his father on, one suspects that pre-race inebriation might not have been the wisest tactic. A horse named Deliva Crianza, ridden by Lindsey Walters, ultimately wins the race in two hours 17 minutes (Allen and Leo will come 10th). Twenty minutes later, the fastest man crosses the line. It isn’t race-favourite Hywel Davies – who will finish in 11th place – but 28 yearold Londoner, Ross Macdonald, who incidentally works at an anti-doping agency. A regular triathlete and sub-10 hour Ironman athlete, Macdonald has long dreamed of besting a horse in a square go, until he found himself one

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of the unlucky runners to be almost trampled some two hours earlier. “I actually caught that rider up on a more technical section later on, which is the first time I’ve ever overtaken a horse,” he laughs. “I repeated ‘Lovely day. See you at the finish!’ back to the rider, a bit full of myself, but she sped past me five minutes later!” “It’s funny when they catch you,” he continues, his breath just about regained. “Your instinct is to run faster, but I was stupid to think I could ever outrun a horse.” Yet, in coming sixth overall, Ross has indeed managed to beat 45 out of 50 horses. “It sounds ridiculous, doesn’t it?” he reflects. “I run faster than horses. Well, some,” he says shaking his head as though the reality of what he’s just achieved doesn’t yet compute. Despite Macdonald’s efforts, today marks yet another equestrian win. But with just five horses standing in the way of a third human victory, next year could very well be a different story. In rural mid-Wales, the competitive balance between man and beast will continue for some time yet. Enter for 2017 at green-events.co.uk

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FASST FOOD FIXES

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DELIVERANCE FROM DOMS? RAMEN TO THAT

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*NATURE CHEMICAL BIOLOGY | WORDS: SCARLETT WRENCH | PHOTOGRAPHY: AGATA PEC AT HEARST STUDIOS I FOOD STYLIST: VAL MCARTHUR

YOU WILL NEED... ..

0-2MIN

2-5MIN

5-10MIN

Put your post-gym recovery on the bullet train with this recipe from Kaori Simpson of Harajuku Kitchen. In a bowl, cover the noodles with boiling water. Add a stock cube, soy, ginger, garlic and mushrooms.

Chop up your bacon, pop it on top and blast for three minutes in the microwave. Ginger is proven to ease muscle aches, while a dash of salt in the soy sauce and bacon will replenish lost electrolytes.

Remove and stir. Add your chicken along with sprouts and spinach. Blast for five more minutes, then serve with a glug of chilli oil, torn coriander and a boiled egg gg for a souped-up serving ng of muscle mus l fuel. f .

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Finely chop hop a handful of coriander + a small red chilli + 1tbsp red onion. Add and mix well

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1 BIT OF KIT, 10 WAYS #13

SERVE UP A FULL PLATE OF MUSCLE

Gym so ramm med you couldn’t fit a squat in siideways? Forgo the queue for the racks and grab a weight plate. It’s all you need for a dynamic workout that will broaden your shoulders and chest. So platee up and dig in n

01 SQUAT REACH

02 THRUSTER

3 SETS OF 8-10 REPS

3 SETS OF 8-10 REPSS

Compound movements are a great way to warm up your entire body, though this weighted reach is still testing. Begin with the plate by your chest (A) and sink into a squat, pushing the plate out in front (B).

The next course? More squuats. As you stand, press the weight h above your head to work your shoulders (A), then sink back down low (B).

A

A

B

B

DS EACH SSIDE 3 SETS OF 30 SECONDS

From a standing position, lunge back with your left leg and twist to your right (A). The added screw will tighten up your core and sculpt V-cut definition. Push up to stand and repeat on the other side (B).

Functional muscle requiress dynamic motion and these halos aree devilish ffor your shoulders. Hold the pllate withh bbent arms (A), and lift it around your head (B). (B) After 30 seconds of hell, sw witch direction.

HOT OT

TR

3 SETS OF 5 REPS ON EACH LEG

TS UL

STEP UP TO THE PLATE Cast iron with a three-

FAS

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B

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way grip, these plates will help you lose lbs for fewer pounds. Olympic Disc £29 jordanfitness.com PL

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04 HALO

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03 REVERSE LUNGE AND TWIST


MOVE UP A WEIGHT CLASS

06 OVERHEAD SQUAT

WEIGHTE G ED PRESS-UP 3 SETS O 10-12 REPS S S OF

3 SETS OF 8-10 REPS

Take the w weight off your feet and drop into a presss-up with the plate on your back (A). (A) Bracing your core, lower your chest until just off the ground (B).

Legs recovered? Let’s try again. With the plate overhead, squat too 90 degrees, arms straight, torso upright (A) (A). Push back up to stand (B).

A

B

A

B

10 NEW MOVES WORTH GETTING TO GRIPS WITH

0 A ALEKNAS S

08 FRONT SHOULDER RAISE

S S OF 3 SETS O 6-8 REPS

3 SETS OF 8-10 REPS

No time to ffeel floored. Lie down with your N k knees tuckked and the plate on your shins ( ) Extend (A). d your legs forward and your arms back to finish in a hollow hold (B).

Hold the plate at your waist, core locked (A). Moving only your straight arms, lift it up (B). Keep your torsoo still ill s. to isolate your shoulders.

B

SPEC MUSCLES USED

A

A

B WORKOUT

20

9 TRUCK U DRIVER

10 BRIDGE PULL-OVER

3 SSETSS OF O 30 SECONDS

3 SETS OF 6-8 REPS

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Afters come courtesy of your chest and lats. With your shoulders on the floor in a bridge position (A), tense your abs to bring the weight toward your quads (B).

MIN

RESULTS IN

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WEEKS LEVEL

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WANT TO ADVANCE YOUR RUNNING?

GO …GO A SURPRISE PACKAGE Gift wrapping your feet in fully padded, air-pumped trainers can disrupt the natural biomechanics of your run. Take a step toward proper alignment by putting more weight on the outside of your feet, pressing your big toe down to avoid over-supination. You should feel your muscles engage – if it aches, your footwear could be causing lasting damage.

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WORDS: JACK HART | ILLUSTRATIONS: ALCONIC

KEEP YOUR KICKS

TOE THE LINE Before you sprint to catch the barefoot revolution, you need to focus on form – during minimalist running your stride should be shorter and faster, with your feet landing directly underneath your body. Imagine a line through your head, hips and the balls of your feet – deviate too far and you might damage something.

BACK TO

Lying back on your heels increases plantar flexion (stretching the front of your ankles and foot). Lean as far as you can, supporting yourself with your hands if you can’t get all the way down. This will loosen your quads and hip flexors, which tighten after hours of sitting and can cause back pain. Do this every day after work to release the muscles and fix any desk-bound stiffness.

CONTACT vivobarefoot.com

SHOES OFF AT THE DOOR If your office allows it, walk around without shoes as often as you can. If not, shunning the slippers at home will reconnect your brain with the myriad sensory input coming from your feet. This is a great way to strengthen your ankles and relax the muscles across your back and shoulders that rely on podal reassurance of your stability. Maybe upgrade your socks first.

Minimalist footwear is not a fulltime commitment. While barefoot training is great for building ankle strength, there’s no need to throw your flyknits out for good. They accentuate performance, so wear them when crushing PBs. Basically, new Nikes are great for showing off, but limiting their use will build strength overall. And help you keep them clean.

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TREAT YOUR FEET

Ready to abandon all footwear? Well, don’t – just as there’s no need to chuck out your grooming products or live in the garden. Your feet are still highly sensitive and need protection, which is where minimalist shoes come in. Look for flexible soles – you should be able to fold them in half – which let your feet read the ground without being dissected by urban detritus. The Vivobarefoot Motus range is versatile and gym-friendly.

BASICS

NAIL TOE LIFTS

Modern shoes can restrict your toe alignment, which a Taiwanese study in the Journal of Orthopaedic Research confirmed can impact balance, strength and motor skills. Relearn and boost your flexibility by rooting your big toe in the ground, raising your other digits up and outward. Don’t worry, you’ll find it tough at first, so try pulsing the move until you develop the strength to hold it. Your running, and lifting, will soon see a big step up.

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PT T / 10.2016 0 20 6 T BIG WORKOUT THE

T O

OUR BRAIN GYM FLOOR

Who says brains and braw W wn must be built separately? B up your productivity Bulk y and add strength over the c course of a lunchbreak by following our formula, then r return to your desk pump ped for the afternoon grind

01A 01 1A

02 02A

01B

02 02B

T F If no amount off coffee ff can brreakk your 3pm lethargy, l h th k h at his workout is your shot reejuvenation. Combining b co f with highompound lifts inte s ty body e ght patterns, p tte s, ntensity bodyweight it’ll stimulate your spine and hips for better neural function. Move through each set in turn, taking a short rest in between. Train hard, train smart and make the rest of your working day a personal best, not a forced rep. 1

01 BENT-OVER ROW 3 SETS OF 10 REPS Welcome to your first set. Perform these four moves in order, resting for 10 seconds after each, and for 90 seconds at the end. Hinge forward at the hips to lift the bar with an underhand grip, knees bent and back straight (A). Pull the bar to your stomach (B). Don’t let your back round; you need to isolate the effort in your lats and shoulders. Lower slowly. MENSHEALTH.CO.UK


THINKING MAN’S MUSCLE THE SPEC MUSCLES TARGETED

WORKOUT

25

MIN RESULTS IN

3

03B 3B

WEEKS LEVEL

0 04A

MED

03A 3A

WORDS: JACK HART | PHOTOGRAPHER: PHIL HAYNES | MODEL: JAMES STARK AT W MODELS STYLIST: DAISY DEANE | GROOMING: SABINE CHAMMAS | SHORTS AND TRAINERS ASICS

0 04B

GIANTSET

02 DEADLIFT

03 INCLINE DB PRESS

04 SPLIT JUMPS

3 SETS OF 10 REPS

3 SETS OF 10 REPS

3 SETS OF 30 SECONDS

You’ll want to add a plate or two for this one, but be sure to pick a weight you can comfortably hit 10 reps with; pulling a muscle is not exactly clever. With the bar in front of you, bend at the knees and sink down to take an overhand grip (A). Tighten your core and squeeze your glutes to keep your back straight as you stand, driving your hips forward to lift the barbell (B).

Set a bench to a 45-degree angle and grab a dumbbell in each hand. As with the deadlift, aim for comfortable weights – your muscles will be fatigued already. Begin with the weights by your shoulders, elbows wide and pointing down (A). Raise the weights until your arms are extended (B), then lower slowly to the start. Take a 10-second breather. Now for your finisher...

Sometimes the simplest moves are the smartest. Employing the largest muscles in your body, this jump provides a respite for your upper half but is far from a breather. Begin in a lunge with your right leg forward (A), then press the balls of your feet into the ground and drive your left leg forward, landing in a lunge (B). Alternate. Take 90 seconds’ rest, then go back to the rows.

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06B 6B

05B 07A

0 05A 06A

SUPERSET

112 MEN’S HEALTH

05 CORKSCREW

06 BURPEE

07 FRONT KICKTHROUGH

3 SETS OF 30 SECONDS

3 SETS OF 30 SECONDS

3 SETS OF 30 SECONDS

Next up is your bodyweight superset. This first move keeps the pace high while shifting focus to your obliques for sharp definition. From a press-up position, jump your feet forward and to the left, hands fixed (A). Both feet should land tucked under your chest. Kick back to the start and repeat to the right (B). No rest this time – move straight into the burpees.

Proper form is key here. For burpees, that means ensuring that both your chest and thighs touch the ground when you drop down (A). Jump your feet back into a tuck position, then leap up as high as you can (B). These fast-paced exercises will send your heart rate soaring, forcing the body to tap into fat stores. Take 60 seconds’ rest, then go back to the corkscrew.

Finish up with this triset. The following moves are likely to be new to you, but that’s the point – developing new skills releases dopamine, a chemical responsible for motivation. With your arms outstretched and weight on the balls of your feet (A), drive your left arm and leg forward, and kick through with your right leg (B). Reverse and repeat on the other side. MENSHEALTH.CO.UK


THINKING MAN’S MUSCLE THE SPEC MUSCLES TARGETED

WORKOUT

25

MIN RESULTS IN

3

WEEKS LEVEL

0 07B

MED

09 09B

08A 0 A 09A

08B

TRISET

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

08 SIDE KICKTHROUGH

09 CRAB REACH

3 SETS OF 30 SECONDS

3 SETS OF 30 SECONDS

No rest yet. Stay on the floor, but this time place your weight centrally, knees off the ground (A). Keeping your left hand and right foot fixed, spin around to your right, lifting your right arm and kicking your left leg through (B). Reverse, fluidly kicking to the other side. That complex spinal movement aids neuromuscular communication, improving balance and control.

This back and hip-extending move will straighten out deskbound bodies. From a crab (A), reach your right hand over to your left shoulder (B). Repeat to the right. Take things slowly, flowing through positions to extend the range in your spine and hips. Rest 60 seconds and return to the front kickthrough. The mid-afternoon email influx won’t know what hit it. MEN’S HEALTH 113


PT / 10.2016

LLIQUID IQUID ASSETS A

MACRO ECONOMICS #05

A BLEND WITH BENEFITS Protein shakes make hitting your macros a cinch, but too often lack flavour. Our DIY recipe turns the screw on lumpy liquid diets

08 EESSENTIAL S AMINO ACIDS IN MACA

PREP TIME

2MIN CALORIES 312 PROTEIN 30G CARBS 33G FAT 7G

NUTS AND BULK MAKES 5 • Almond milk, 1.25L • Almond/peanut butter, 25g • Banana, 2½ • Blueberries, 100g • Oats, 75g • Maca powder, 50g • Protein powder, 5 servings

WORDS: JACK HART | PHOTOGRAOPHY: JOBE LAWRENSON | BLENDER BY LAKELAND

METHOD

1.45 PRICE R PER PPORTION!

THROW A SPANNER IN THE WORKS OF DULL POST-GYM NUTRITION

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

Step 1 Achieving the perfect consistency is the first step to elevating your shake from a standard mix. Pour in the liquids first, followed by the whole ingredients, leaving the protein powder until last. “This means the protein has the least possible time to absorb any liquid residue and clog up,” says recipe creator Henry Dunmore, founder of Natural Fitness Food at the Third Space gym. Step 2 Once combined, blast in a high-powered blender until smooth. You can mix up the ingredients depending on your preference, but Dunmore recommends keeping it sweet for a post-workout insulin spike. Bottle each serving separately and drink within 48 hours; any longer and the protein will denature. That’s your raw material sorted – now start building. MEN’S HEALTH 115


TOUGH O G IT OUT O T

FIRST S GGEAR #166

P O O

O N

G E

With the new season really kicking off, our premier kit will help you go the extra yard on S Sunday mornings. We can’t promise the scouts w turn up. But you’ll be too busy with your will d dazzling strength, speed and agility to care

SUPP YOUR PERFORMANCE Half-time oranges have had their day. New studies show that gels using multiple sources of energy best recharge flagging muscles, maltodextrin and fructose being the most effective combo*. Science in Sport GO Isotonic Gels £21 for 30 scienceinsport.com

HIT THE SPOT Hook this target sheet over the front of the local rec goal for your own personal St George’s Park training centre. Fourteen tricky targets help develop pinpoint accuracy from set pieces. Football Goal Target Sheet £29 networld-sports.co.uk

THINK ON YOUR FEET Quick reactions are essential in any sport and practice makes perfect – or pretty good, at least. The curvatures on this ball give it an unpredictable bounce, improving your neural-muscular connections. Reaction Ball £2.95 thesoccerstore.com

Local league players don’t shy away L from the odd two-footer, so quality q y shinguards are a sound investment. g Nike’s latest mould to your leg, N g so you won’t know you’re wearing g them until ‘Chopper’ pp steams in. Nike Mercurial Flylite Shinguards g £28 8 sstore.nike.com oe e com


PICK YOUR O FEET ETT UP Rapid p bur ursts sts of acce celeeratio t n make ff renc the differ e e betweenn hanging f ont and actu around up fr front c ally posing a threat at. Quickk ffeet e over a d lladder dd develops d l speed responsive f fibres s in yo y ur money-makers. i y Spe Zi and Ag Zil giili ility Sp ed d Lad Ladder der i ts.com £1 newitts. £10 com

TRAIN IN STYLE

*SPORTS MEDICINE JOURNAL | †UNIVERSITY OF HERTFORDSHIRE | WORDS: JACK HART | PHOTOGRAPHY: AGATA PEC AT HEARST STUDIOS

Precise upper-body tailoring for f football training g might g seem a s stretch, , but research has found f clothes can boost confidence†,, helping you train harder and look good doing g g it. Just ask Ronaldo… … Nike Strike Aeroswift £85 store.nike.com

A SWEETER STRIKE No boots will automatically grant you the finesse of a pro striker, despite what the ads say. But this Adidas pair will at least offer greater control at speed. If nothing else, you’ll look better. Adidas X 16+ Purechaos FG £230 adidas.co.uk

KING OF THE DRILL You might never reach Messi levels of ambipedal dribbling, but shifting the ball through slalom poles will make you the star of the office squad. Drills at the end of a session will help you maintain control in the final minutes of a match. Ziland Slalom Poles £30 newitts.com

FAST BREAK With a flexible cord you can anchor to a sturdy base – or have someone hold – this waist belt increases resistance for sprinting. The score? Accelerated speed when you’re released from its clutches. SKLZ Recoil £55 brandfusionltd.com


CROWN +GLORY COMBAT A THINNING THATCH AND KEEP YOUR HAIR LOOKING GOOD WITH A GROOMING PRODUCT THAT WORKS AS HARD AS YOU DO

F

act: early signs of hair loss can feel like a threat, but rather than covering up thinning hair – or thinking the answer lies in a new cut and questionable styling products – ditch that notion and face the problem head on. With Alpecin Caffeine Shampoo, you can approach your day with confidence. The shampoo is designed to energise hair at the root, to help reduce and prevent hair loss. In much the same way caffeine operates in your diet – as a stimulant to keep you turbocharged at the office and all the way to the gym floor – Alpecin Caffeine Shampoo works in a similarly effective way. Keep the bottle with your gym kit or in your bathroom cabinet to seamlessly incorporate it into your grooming regimen early, before hair loss develops. Since a lot of men begin to notice hair thinning in their early twenties, this key preventative product is worth the investment. Harnessing the power of caffeine, Alpecin Caffeine Shampoo transports the special active ingredient to the scalp. Apply in the shower, and after just two minutes the active ingredient forms a depot and what’s more it keeps working long after you have rinsed the shampoo out and headed home or to the office. With stronger hair and enhanced grip, you’ll feel more confident. It’s a win-win. To find out more visit alpecin.co.uk

62% OF MEN AGREED THAT HAIR LOSS WOULD AFFECT SELF-ESTEEM*


MH PROMOTION

TAKE CHARGE OF THINNING HAIR As with all aspects of your life, from your career to workouts, the key to success is to be prepared, tackle challenges early and win. Here’s what you need to do:

STEP ONE: Apply Alpecin Caffeine Shampoo in the shower and leave on for two minutes.

START EARLY Improve the structure of your hair with the Alpecin Caffeine Complex

CAFFEINE SHAMPOO C1 Now you can transport the special active ingredient to the hair roots during washing. Alpecin Caffeine works for up to 24 hours even when the shampoo has been rinsed out. In just 120 seconds the active ingredient travels along the hair shaft directly to your scalp. Based on the intentional omission of softeners (silicone), the hair structure improves with enhanced grip after just a few washes.

Take those two minutes in the shower to massage the shampoo into your hair and scalp. This helps the product work effectively and a head massage can relieve stress.

STEP THREE: Confidence is key. Since thinning hair can affect your confidence, combat this feeling with an extra workout to pump out endorphins, and rest safe in the knowledge that Alpecin Caffeine Shampoo is working just as hard as you. TO FIND OUT MORE GO TO ALPECIN.CO.UK

*THE PSYCHOSOCIAL IMPACT OF HAIR LOSS AMONG MEN: A MULTINATIONAL EUROPEAN STUDY, NOVEMBER 2005, NUMBER OF PEOPLE SURVEYED - 729 MEN FROM 18 TO 45 YEARS OLD.

STEP TWO:


EDITED BY ERIC DOWN & MATT HAMBLY

SPE

O RIN

G

IL TA

C I AL

PHOTOGRAPHY: TAL SILVERMAN

Something is happening to formalwear. It has become less decorous, more daring and, well, less formal. In fact, the whole business of suiting up is dressing down, with stiff conventions softening and prices more approachable. Diversity is greater than ever before but with that comes bewildering choice. Luckily, our tailor-made guide has things sewn up MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

MEN’S HEALTH 121


COAT £595 HARDY AMIES SUIT £795 POLO RALPH LAUREN ROLLNECK £120 TOMMY HILFIGER TAILORED GLASSES £125 CUBITTS WATCH £2850 ORIS DOCUMENT HOLDER £775 PASSAVANT AND LEE

A Suit For All Seasons A good suit is one of the most crucial style investments a man can make, so it pays to do your research. And with more shapes and shades in vogue than ever in the last 30 years, to know your type is as important as your budget


THE PORTFOLIO

STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: RICCARDO CHIUDIONI | PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: CHRIS BROMLEY | MODEL: MAC AT AMCK | GROOMING: CAROL MORLEY AT CAROL HAYES USING CLINIQUE FOR MEN | SET DESIGN: EAST PRODUCTIONS

BIKER £1195 MATTHEW MILLER SUIT £160 AND SHIRT £18 BOTH TOPMAN SHOES £215 BEYENE CAP £23 NEW ERA DOCUMENT HOLDER £95 REISS

COAT £3600 DIOR HOMME SUIT £3090 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SHIRT £115 NUDIE JEANS SHOES £460 JOHN LOBB SUNGLASSES £177 PRADA WATCH £8650 PIAGET BAG £1210 TOD’S

The Classic DB Double Down Style JACKET £395 AND TROUSERS £150 HARDY AMIES SHIRT £260, COAT £1100 AND SHOES £240 ALL EMPORIO ARMANI GLASSES £295 CUTLER AND GROSS ROUGE ET NOIR £470 AND MEISTERSTUCK PENS £570 BOTH MONTBLANC WATCH £3500 BAUME & MERCIER

Despite its formal overtones, the doublebreasted suit has emerged as a secret smart-casual weapon, says James Jee, head of menswear at luxury Brit brand Jaeger. “There has been a definite shift toward a slimmer double-breasted silhouette over the last few seasons that has more in common proportionally with single-breasters than ’80s power suits.” In practice, this means less padding in the shoulders, allowing the fabric to ‘drape’ more easily. “We tend to talk about the drape of suits a lot, explains Jee. “A good drape makes the fabric look light, with more movement in the bottom half of your jacket.”

When the pricetag starts to increase, this movement may well be something that only you will notice, but it will nonetheless be evident in how comfortable you feel and how naturally you hold yourself when it’s on. In terms of quality and fit, Jee suggests folding your prospective DB in half before securing your purchase, “because with a well-cut suit, the lapels – invariably peaked on a double-breasted jacket – should be identically symmetrical.” Lastly, while a slim, hour-glass cut will lose you a few pounds, if the lapels pull when you button up, you’re kidding no one.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHILIP SINDEN STYLING BY ERIC DOWN / WORDS BY MATT HAMBLY MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

MEN’S HEALTH 123


THE PORTFOLIO

SUIT JACKET £1695 AND TROUSERS £395 BALLY HENLEY £55 SCHIESSER SHOES £130 NIKE WATCH £2155 MONTBLANC

SUIT JACKET £645 AND TROUSERS £395 MATTHEW MILLER HOODIE £115 RON DORFF BOOTS £230 GRENSON SUNGLASSES £395 YOHJI YAMAMOTO WATCH £2155 MONTBLANC

Avant-Garde Statement Of Intent

COAT £950 AND T-SHIRT £105 BOTH BOSS SUIT JACKET £100 AND TROUSERS £50 FARAH SHOES £75 ADIDAS AT JD SPORTS

124 MEN’S HEALTH

If you subscribe to Hardy Amies’ famous maxim that a man should look as if he has put on his clothes with care and then promptly forgotten all about them, you may well be sceptical of the statement suit. But with careful planning and precise attention to details, it can pay to be bold. “When wearing strong colours and patterns, having your suit altered to fit is vital,” says Jee. “If you’re going to draw attention, the basics need to be right: trousers that don’t pool at the ankle, sleeves cut to allow your shirt cuffs to show, and so on.” Find a good alterations tailor and remember to buy them a Christmas card. Buying off

the peg and then shaping to fit is much more affordable than made to measure. Of course, the more you understand what kind of proportions flatter, the better: “To calculate the right jacket length for your shape, let your arms hang by your side,” says Jee. “As you curl your fingers up, they should reach inside your jacket hem.” Once you have a suit that fits like a glove, you’re on safer ground when trying more outlandish trick shots, such as wearing trainers or a hoodie in place of brogues and a shirt.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK


COAT £5645 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SUIT £795 RICHARD JAMES JUMPER £220 AMI SHOES £250 CHURCH’S DOCUMENT HOLDER £995 SMYTHSON


COAT £325 JAEGER SUIT £264 MARKS & SPENCER AUTOGRAPH SHIRT £55 COS JUMPER £45 MASSIMO DUTTI BOOTS £425 WANT LES ESSENTIELS DE LA VIE WATCH £3490 MAURICE LACROIX


THE PORTFOLIO

ADIDAS AT JDSPORTS.CO.UK, ALLSAINTS.COM, ALPHA INDUSTRIES AT MA-1.COM, AMIPARIS.COM, ARMANI.COM, BALLY.COM, BAUME-ET-MERCIER.CO.UK, BEYENECLASSIC.COM, BROOKSBROTHERS.COM, BRUNELLOCUCINELLI.COM, CHURCH-FOOTWEAR.COM, CITIZENWATCH.COM, CUBITTS.CO.UK, CUTLERANDGROSS.COM, DAKS.COM, DIOR.COM, DSQUARED2.COM, DUNELONDON.COM, FARAH.CO.UK, FERRAGAMO.COM, FRENCHCONNECTION.COM, GIEVESANDHAWKES.COM, GRESON.COM, HACKETT.COM, HARDYAMIES.COM, HUGOBOSS.COM, JAEGER.CO.UK, JMWESTON.COM, LARSSONANDJENNINGS.COM, LOCAL AT BROWNSFASHION.COM, JOHNLOBB.COM, JOHNSTONSCASHMERE.COM

COAT £2345 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SUIT £1190 BROOKS BROTHERS ROLLNECK £259 JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN SHIRT £95 HACKETT CARDIGAN £90 J CREW BAG £995 SMYTHSON

COAT £1237 PORTS 1961 SUIT £530 HUGO BOSS SCARF £210 DSQUARED2 POLO SHIRT £40 MASSIMO DUTTI SHOES £395 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SOCKS £10 FALKE PEN £505 ST DUPONT

The Pinstripe Business Unusual COAT £987 ROLLNECK £299 AND BOOTS £430 ALL MICHAEL KORS SUIT £1975 THOM SWEENEY SUNGLASSES £375 MAX PITTION WATCH £15,600 PARMIGIANI FLEURIER DOCUMENT HOLDER £495 PAUL SMITH

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

This trad City fabric has been making a comeback of late, emerging from the fusty atmosphere of the corner office and finding a new audience at menswear trade shows – typically a good barometer of future trends. The difference this time around is that designers aren’t taking such a hard line, literally-speaking. “It’s a subtler affair,” says Jee. “Bold pinstripes and chalk stripes are being replaced by tone-on-tone stripes, or even just lines created by a contrast in the fabric.” Crucially, this more nuanced reinvention of

a stiff tradition lets you benefit from all the slimming effects of stripes without looking like you’ve gone shopping with Nigel Farage. Jee also points out that, as you move up through the price brackets, you’ll be buying both an increase in skill and improved raw materials. “With this sort of stripe, the better (or finer) the fabric, the more precise and flattering it will look,” he says. Just think of it as paying a premium for high-definition.

MEN’S HEALTH 127


THE PORTFOLIO

COAT £2795 GIEVES & HAWKES SUIT £695 DAKS SHIRT £18 TOPMAN SHOES £960 JOHN LOBB WATCH £139 CITIZEN DOCUMENT HOLDER £380 BOSS

The Chequered SUIT JACKET £90 AND TROUSERS £50 NEXT HOODIE £88 ALLSAINTS WATCH £325 LARSSON & JENNINGS RUCKSACK £450 WANT LES ESSENTIELS DE LA VIE

128 MEN’S HEALTH

Boxing Clever “A good chequerwork pattern allows you to inject some personality into your outfit without shouting too loudly,” says Jee. And he’s right, of course. Except what constitutes ‘good’ very much depends on both the wearer and the maker. A tight template of squares “of around 2in” will work for most body shapes, while larger grids flatter few. In fact, “a good suit-maker will pore over the pattern at the design stage because it significantly affects the wearer’s proportions,” says Jee. “A vertical or horizontal stripe that’s too heavy, for instance, will warp your body shape.” When shopping around, look for accurate alignment of the pattern

across the lapels, which is a hallmark of quality. Lastly, a word on price: like shoes, tailoring really is an area where you get what you pay for. “In terms of construction, a good mid-priced suit should have a chest piece made from horsehair: a breathable fabric which gives the jacket stability and moulds to your shape over time,” says Jee. “As you move up in price, this lining will be used for the whole suit. And cheaper rags tend to just use glue.” Our advice? Economise on the basics and cough up as much as you can afford on your whistle. It’ll repay you in kind.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

MARKSANDSPENCER.COM, MASSIMODUTTI.COM, MATTHEWMILLERMENSWEAR.COM, MAURICELACROIX.COM, MAXPITTION.COM, MICHAELKORS.COM, NEWERACAP.CO.UK, NEXT.CO.UK, STORE.NIKE.COM, NUDIEJEANS.COM, ORIS.CH/EN, PARMIGIANI.CH, PASSAVANTANDLEE.COM, PAULSMITH.CO.UK, EN.PIAGET.COM, RALPHLAUREN.CO.UK, PORTS 1961 AT FARFETCH.COM, RONDORFF.COM, REDWINGHERITAGE.COM, RICHARDJAMES.CO.UK, ST DUPONT AT STONEGIFT.COM, SCHIESSERAG.COM, SMYTHSON.COM, SUNGLASSHUT.COM, THOMSWEENEY.CO.UK, TODS.COM, WANTLESESSENTIELS.COM/UK_EN, YOHJI YAMAMOTO AT MATCHESFASHION.COM, ZEGNA.COM

BOMBER £150 ALPHA INDUSTRIES SUIT £475 TOMMY HILFIGER SHIRT £95 AND ROLLNECK £225 BOTH DAKS SUNGLASSES £65 LOCAL SUPPLY BAG £1395 SMYTHSON WATCH £1195 RAYMOND WEIL


SUIT JACKET £660 AND TROUSERS £300 BOTH PAUL SMITH JUMPER £90 FRENCH CONNECTION SHOES £695 JM WESTON SOCKS £20 SCOTT NICHOL WATCH £2255 MONT BLANC SUNGLASSES £65 LOCAL SUPPLY


01

02

04

03

Breaking The Laws Of Time In the same way that the rules of tailoring are being softened and democratised, so too has the sometimes turgid world of fine watches. Learn why a formal occasion needn’t handcuff you to convention

130 MEN’S HEALTH

For a supposedly creative mode of expression, the business of dressing up sure likes a rulebook. Whether it’s fabrics that should never be seen together, or colours that just don’t go, ceremonial style can seem no fun at all. But if formalwear is beset by edicts, the watch world is a totalitarian state. The time-honoured guidelines for what constitutes a dress watch are as clear as they are prohibitive: hour, minute

ALEX DOAK Make the dress watch rules work for you with a formal education from our horology expert

and second hands only (chronographs are for sports); a round case (to soften boxy cuffs); leather straps that chime with your derbys (invariably black, then); and as expensive as you can afford. But rules are made to be broken. Just as crewnecks are finding their way under suit jackets, so the notion of a formal watch has become more playful. That’s not to condone an Apple Watch with black-tie; but chichi evening events now offer wiggle room to the fun-loving connoisseur. Perhaps the ultimate traditional dress watch is the Cartier Tank, barely changed

since its 1917 debut. So no one will ever question your choice of timepiece if the dial bears the name of Paris’s grande maison – even if it happens to be a diving watch. Calibre de Cartier Diver Blue (£6350) 1 may be a bona fide waterbaby, but such slender elegance works perfectly with tailoring. While its calfskin and rubber strap makes the Cartier a stealth imposter at formal functions, the non-diver Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Black Matte (£2700) 2 goes all-out with a massive polymer cuff and unabashedly square case. Still, the result is undeniably chic and will sit comfortably – in terms of fit and look – beneath a crisp white shirt. Don’t let all that bulk put you off either; its ceramic case is surprisingly light. But why stop at the strap when it comes to plastic? Swatch has switched itself up with the ingenious Swatch Sistem51 (£108) 3 . Yes, it’s still polyurethane, but the styling is elegant, and most importantly, the batterypowered quartz mechanics inside have been replaced with proper mechanical mechanics, assembled entirely by robots. And just like the 1983 original, it comprises just 51 parts. So there’s plenty of factual ammo to fire back at any fustian snobs sat across the boardroom table. If your cultural references are more millennial than that, you’ll probably have grown up with Michael Kors. In which case, you too are well served, since the label’s previously unloved and showy (some might dare say tawdry) watch range has matured with its customers. Still, there’s no need to be afraid of retaining a touch of oil-tycoon bling – so long as your outfit has a largely neutral palette, the Michael Kors Lexington Chronograph (£259) 4 is certain to ping and punch well above its weight.

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

PHOTOGRAPHY: TAL SILVERMAN | STYLING: RICCARDO CHIUDIONI | CARTIER.CO.UK, BELLROSS.COM, SHOP.SWATCH.COM, MICHAEL KORS AT ERNESTJONES.CO.UK

WRIST ASSESSMENT


MH PROMOTION

THE PERFECT SHAVE Grab your Hydro 5 Sensitive, follow Gregory’s tips and consign post-shave redness to the bearded past

FRESHEN UP YOUR STYLE FED UP WITH THE FUZZ? GET A CLOSE SHAVE WITH THE NEW WILKINSON SWORD HYDRO 5 SENSITIVE

G

ents, it’s the end of an era. The beardidemic that has ravaged the faces of British men is nearing its zenith. We have reached peak beard. But to avoid looking like the stubborn relic of a bygone trend, you’ve come to expect that aggravated flush caused by regular close shaves. Sensitive skin be damned, right? Well, not quite. Wilkinson Sword’s latest razor, the Hydro 5 Sensitive, helps to reduce irritation from a close shave. Its water-activated hydrating gel reservoir is formulated with aloe vera and hydrates up to one hour after shaving. Along with five ultra-glide

blades and a flip trimmer designed to reach difficult contours, the Hydro 5 Sensitive is Wilkinson Sword’s best razor for achieving a close, crisp shave. Before you conduct complete beardocide, make sure you’ve got the right tools to hand. With the Hydro 5 Sensitive, you’re pretty much ready. But first, ensure you and your face are in good hands with advice on attaining the perfect Wilkinson Sword shave care of Dan Gregory, one of the UK’s leading skincare experts and founder of Man Made London, an award-winning gentleman’s grooming room.

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT FACEBOOK.COM/WILKINSONSWORDMENUK

PROPER PREP Always shower before shaving – the combination of warm water and steam softens the hair on your face, reducing the amount of force you need to apply.

“THE HYDRO 5 SENSITIVE HELPS TO REDUCE IRRITATION FROM A CLOSE SHAVE”

GO WITH THE GRAIN Using the Wilkinson Sword Hydro 5 Sensitive, shave in the direction of your beard growth. If you want to achieve an even closer shave, go across the beard growth on a second pass.

EASY DOES IT A water-activated gel reservoir is built into the razor’s blades, coating the skin with lubrication which helps to reduce friction, for a smooth shave with a fresh finish.

RECOVERY Make sure you apply a post-shave balm every time. It helps nourish your skin with moisture and reduce redness and irritation.


SAVILE ROW

New Kids On The Row For two centuries Savile Row has been the spiritual home of British tailoring. But it’s a new crop of designers who are staking its place in the future of style

WORDS: JOSH SIMS | IMAGE: CAD & THE DANDY

A DESIGN FOR LIFE Hard as it might be to imagine for fresh-faced men about town, it wasn’t so long ago that Savile Row looked to be breathing its last. As ’80s rents rocketed, its stuffy appeal waned. And with off-the-peg suiting improving immeasurably, the Row seemed something of an anachronism to many. Fortunately, over the next 20 years bespoke was to receive a shot in the arm from the likes of Timothy Everest, Richard James and Kilgour’s Carlo Brandelli. These are tailors with a respect for craft and tradition but who possessed the drive to reimagine classical suiting. That tailoring regained its allure is in no small part due to these modernists. But with traditional distinctions between smart and casual being broken down like never before, it has now fallen to a second wave of tailors to keep Savile Row feeling fresh and relevant. In April this year, Kathryn Sargent became the first

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

Bespoke is an investment, so it pays to speculate wisely. Tailor Kathryn Sargent lays down the rules

woman to open a tailoring house on the famous street, declaring that she wanted to create a place that values craft with a contemporary accessibility. “We try not to impose a house style on the client – as many of the traditional tailors do – being fixated on doing ‘their

“Savile Row needs to focus on the craft and less on whether it once made a suit for some HRH” thing’,” says the former head cutter for Gieves & Hawkes. “All of our clients are different so it’s about working with them to give them what they want – that’s really what bespoke tailoring should be about.” This more collaborative, serviceable attitude is at the heart of what Cad & The Dandy offers, too. Having opened on Savile Row in 2013, this independent tailoring

BE OPENMINDED Don’t be awed by tradition; back streets can hide great tailors, too. Choose your price, shop around and ask questions. PICK OUT DETAILS Consider the minutiae, down to buttons, lining and extra pockets. The tailor will guide you, but it’s good to have a vision. ADD SOME WEIGHT Fine fabrics look great but deteriorate faster. If your suit will get regular wear, 10-12oz flannel or mohair are good. DON’T SUCK IN Relax when being measured. A good tailor will assess your build and posture, then cut the suit to flatter your shape.

THE SAVILE ROW TAILORS GIVING A TRADITIONAL STREET ITS MODERN PLEAT

business has pitched itself on price point, claiming that bespoke needn’t break the bank. But even at the higher end, there is a refreshing modernity making its influence felt. Thom Whiddett – who, along with Luke Sweeney, makes up one half of revered Mayfair tailors Thom Sweeney – thinks that newer, younger designers are more likely to adopt attitudes that echo more progressive trends in menswear at large. While they will happily produce you the finest threepiece suit that money can buy, Thom Sweeney is also known for pushing flexible separates and contrasting patterns and fabrics. Indeed, there is growing evidence of the old guard and new minds coming together. Established in 1821, the bespoke Savile Row tailor Norton & Sons is now owned by Patrick Grant, whose

radical relaunch of the company’s dormant subsidiary brand, E Tautz, has become a favourite ticket on the London Collections Men calendar. Likewise, British heritage brand Hardy Amies has recently employed the former Reiss designer Darren Barrowcliff to continue the recent modernisation of its image. “There is certainly something beautiful about knowing who you are and what you do and sticking with it,” he says of the traditional business. “But the way the world is now, upping the profile and attitude of any business on Savile Row is important. People want luxury but they’re less tolerant of that old elitism. Savile Row needs to be part of a new London, to focus on the clothes and the craft and less on whether, for example, it once made a suit for some HRH.” It’s an attitude that suits us fine.

MEN’S HEALTH 133


EDITED BY SCARLETT WRENCH

MH QUIZ

DANGER NO.29

ARE YOU GAMBLING WITH YOUR HEALTH? Fortune may favour the brave, but not all prospects pay off. Take our test to ensure the risks you take are met with reward


MH QUIZ: DANGER

OCTOBER 2016

\ Q1 Which of the following hazards poses the greatest threat to city-dwellers?

A Knife crime

Can a hot-sauce habit it do seerious i damage??

C

B Air pollution

Q4\

Slow tourists

A

B Though less likely to jump out from your Twitter feed than other urban threats, air pollution could be implicated in 40,000 UK deaths a year, claims an RCP report. As well as traffic, overuse of fly-killer and cleaning products also contributes. We guess those ‘green’ alternatives have a purpose after all.

Yes es

\ Q2 What’s the most dangerous form of transport?

B

Noo A

B

Air

Rail

C

Road

C You can stop digging your nails into the armrest during take-off. Cambridge University studies concluded that air and rail are the safest ways to go. Best make use of those £29.99 European flights while you still have the chance.

Q3\ Is vaping safer than smoking ‘proper’ cigarettes?

B A little Tabasco b won’t kkillll you. According d g to spice exp perts at New Mexico i State University, i i it would ttake 3lb off extreme ppowdered chilli – eaten in a single gl sitting g – to kkillll a grown g man. At worst,, you’re looking at an inflamed gut or stomach. Only l you can d d whether h h that h decide bhut jolok okia-eating contest is really ll worthh it..

\ Q5 You’ve dropped your lunch. Is there

Q6\ For skydivers, the risk of harm per jump is one in…

any merit to the five-second rule?

B

Noo A

Yees

A

B

Yes

No

A

B

100

A As with love, germs won’t wait. Still, this rule does have some truth. After 30 seconds, food can harbour 10 times more bacteria than it picked up on first contact. Recently mopped the kitchen floor? Go for it. Dropped your kebab stepping out of a taxi? Cut your losses.

C

1300 2000

B Statistically speaking, skydiving is pretty safe, according to the British Parachute Association (though we guess they would say that). For men, your chance of harm – anything from a sprained wrist to, well, death – is one in 1300 for a tandem dive, rising to one in 200 if you fly solo.

Q7\ Arrange the following drugs in order of danger...

A But ut safer doesn’t doesn t mean safe. safe To quote vape vapestudying scientists at Lawrence Berkeley Lab: “Regular cigarettes are super unhealthy. E-cigs are just unhealthy.” Vapour contains toxic aldehydes, the effects of which are unestablished. Besides, smoking what smells like strawberry laces through a light-up pipe never looks cool. Just give up, OK? MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

A

Cocaine

B

Tobacco

C

Steroids

D

Cannabis

E

Alcohol

F

Ketamine

A,E,F,B,D,C When a Lancet study rated drugs based on net harm caused, weed and steroids were judged less of a concern than alcohol. Of course, this is largely because alcohol abuse is more prevalent. Swapping your after-work pint for a cheeky shot of ketamine is still not advisable. MEN’S HEALTH 139


JOIN THE TESTER PANEL Dear Men’s Health subscriber! Join our research panel for the chance to share your opinions on subjects that matter to you, as well as take part in surveys with a chance to win great prizes. Your feedback will help influence our articles and you could be invited to test new products for free: everything from skincare and razors to heart rate monitors and fitness trackers – whatever it is we need testing. Plus, all new sign-ups are in with a chance of winning MH workout equipment, vitamins, beef jerky and books!

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MH QUIZ: DANGER

OCTOBER 2016

Q8\ What are the odds that you’ll contract prostate cancer in your lifetime?

\ Q9 Which of the following activities is proven to be the most dangerous? A

Riding a motorbike

Q11\ Which of o thee followin ng is more dangerrous?? A

Overtraining i i

B

Running a marathon A

B

10%

50%

C

75%

B But don’t panic: prostate cancer is so slow to develop, the majority of men die from other causes before it becomes invasive (that’s supposed to be a good thing). Signs it’s worth speaking to a GP include difficulty passing urine and back pain. Check yourself before you wreck yourself.

B

C

Tackling a ski slope A Read this before embarking on your mid-life crisis. Stanford Uni awarded ‘micromort’ points for risky activities, based on participants’ chance of dying. Riding a motorbike for 100km clocks up 10, a marathon run carries seven, and each ski-day averages 0.7. Best suffer the helmet hair, then.

Underttrainingg A&B Actuaally, they’re on a par. Danish scieentists studied committed joggers and their sedentary peers, and found that long-tterm strenuous endurance training g can damage g the heart as much as excess sofa time. Their advised sweet spot: p three runs a week for 2.5 hours total,, at a 12min/mile ppace.

Q12\ In which part of the gym are you most at risk?

Q10\

WORDS: NICKY WILLIAMS | PHOTOGRAPHY: JOBE LAWRENSON, ROWAN FEE, SUN LEE, HEARST STUDIOS, GETTY | ILLUSTRATIONS: ALCONIC, DENNIS CARRIER

What effect does obesity have on your risk of early death? A A

No change

B

Weights room

C

Cardio room

Steam room

A A review in Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport studied A&E admissions, and found that – while women are more likely to sustain injuries during cardio – men are more often admitted after strength training. Accidents involving “being hit by weights or fellow exercisers” were cited. Well, at least it’ll make a great YouTube video.

Q13\ Which of the following should you never mix with energy drinks? B

Doubles it

C

Triples it

C A heavy statistic indeed. Monash University researchers found that obesity can triple your risk of early death. However, it’s never too late to reverse these risks, particularly if you’ve been obese (25% body fat or more) for fewer than 15 years. May we suggest menshealth.co.uk/workout as a good place to start?

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

A

Water

B

Salt

C

Alcohol

C While we’re certain you’re far too debonair for jägerbombs (stag dos excepted), it’s worth noting that an Advances in Nutrition paper found pumping your body full of caffeine not only places a strain on your heart, but makes “the desire to drink more pronounced”. Plus, 2am energy bursts aside, caning energy drinks can overload your body with B vits. You can have too much of a good thing. MEN’S HEALTH 141


OCTOBER 2016

MH QUIZ: DANGER

Q14\

Q18\

How long does each cigarette take off your life?

What are your odds of being killed in a car crash?

A

Nothing

B

11 minutes

C

35 minutes

A

1 in 830 0 B Or, put another way, you lose a day for every 130 you smoke, reports the BMJ. OK, the effects aren’t directly accumulative. But that’s still a lot of Game of Thrones you stand to miss.

Q15\

Q16\

Rugby carries a high risk of concussion…

How does sex affect your risk of a heart attack? A It doesn’t

A

B

True

False

A About 13% of players suffer from concussion each year. Want to play it safer? Counterintuitively, protective shoulder pads could put you at greater risk. According to EIS physicians, the false sense of security this affords causes players to tackle harder. Maybe try tennis?

B

Doubles it

C

Triples it

B The Karolinska Institute found that men are twice as likely to have a heart attack in the hour after sex than at other times. Men with poor fitness are most at risk: we’d advise getting your pump on in the gym if you want to break a sweat elsewhere.

Q17\ One in 10 British men will die from heart disease… A

True

MENSHEALTH.CO.UK

C

1 in 560 0

1 in 240 0

C That’s assuming you’re reading this magazine in the UK (though hopefully not while driving). According to Oxford University, your odds rise to a worrying one-in-82 in the US. Best reroute next year’s road trip to Cornwall, then.

Q19\ Which of these animals is the biggest killer?

B

\ Q20 If you ‘forget’ to use protection in the heat of passion, what are the odds you’ll get a father’s day card next year? A 20%

False

B Not even close – cardiovascular disease accounts for 27% of all UK deaths. As well as inactivity (and the invention of the hotdog-stuffedcrust) recent Norwegian research points to lie-ins as a culprit, with those who regularly exceed eight hours’ sleep at a 35% higher risk. Consider this your early alarm bell.

How did you score?

B

B 50% A

Cow

B

Mosquito

C 70%

C

Shark

B More than 820,000 people die from diseases caused by mosquito bites each year, says the WHO, with SubSaharan Africa the most affected area. In the UK, cows are man’s main enemy, killing 74 people in the last 15 years.

A Even if you hook up during her most fertile period, the odds are against pregnancy, reports the National Center for Health Statistics. Hoping for a positive outcome? An Andrologia study found 200mg of coenzyme-Q10 a day boosts male fertility. It’s worth a pop.

0-6 GAMBLIN’ MAN

7-13 CALCULATED RISKER

14-20 MR SAFE SIDE

All these ‘facts’ spoiling your fun? Well, some gambles are smarter than others. Columbia Uni found that, while men are greater chancers overall, women are more likely to take ‘social risks’ such as initiating a difficult conversation. We imagine you’d rather stick to cave-diving.

A little danger can do you a lot of good. According to sociologist Dr Margee Kerr, fear releases mood-improving hormone oxytocin. We’d suggest volunteering for a challenging work project, rather than chancing it on the unlabelled meat produce in the bottom of your freezer.

You’re so far from the edge you’re fully land-locked. But don’t think swapping real-world thrills for virtual fun can make you bulletproof. A study by the London School of Hygiene found 16% of smartphones harbour e.coli. Best add some antibac wipes to your arsenal. MEN’S HEALTH 143


THE MH DIRECTORY Look good and feel great with this selection of life-enhancing products

£55 FOR THIS SUMMER SUPER LEAN SELECTION - WORTH £104.93

THE GENTLEMEN’S WATCH CO.

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The Gentlemen’s Watch Co. is home to an unrivalled collection of unique affordable timepieces. The strikingly minimal Mesh Chrono from Megir boasts a steel mesh band, precision stopwatch and calendar wheel at 4 o’ clock. 3 variations, £49. Shop at www.gwcwatches.com Quote MHOCT for 10% Off, expires 30/09/2016.

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GRENADE® CARB KILLA® Carb Killa™ is a triple-layered deliciously crunchy low carb high protein bar. Made using a specially selected baking process for exceptional taste it is high in complete protein, low in impact carbs and loaded with tons of fibre. * High Protein – over 23g Per Bar * Less than 1.5g of sugar and 1.5g of high impact carbs and just 214 calories. * Informed Sport approved and accredited This bar really is the perfect high protein low carb snack and an ideal chocolate treat. With Grenade® Carb Killa® you really can have you chocolate and eat it!!!! Available in a range of flavours. www.grenade.com

POWER YOUR WORKOUT WITH ACTI-SNACK FRUIT, NUT & SEED Made from 100% natural dried fruit, nuts and seeds, Acti-Snack maximises on the natural goodness of each ingredient to help meet your individual sports nutritional needs. With this in mind, Acti-Snack Fruit, Nut & Seed has been created to aid endurance while working out. A natural alternative to synthetics, this snack is packed with protein, carbohydrates and healthy fats – the perfect way to power your next run or bike race. www.acti-snack.com Power Pack pictured, RRP £4.99.

REGROWZ Clinically proven to work, Regrowz is the first 100 per cent natural hair regrowth treatment proven to reduce hair loss. Regrowz has been developed from a traditional hair loss remedy using entirely naturallyderived ingredients known for promoting blood flow, collagen production, nourishing and strengthening hair follicles and supporting good skin health. £39.95 (for a one-month supply), regrowz.com

SHREDDIES Shreddies garments are the perfect solution for all flatulence related issues. Our discreet and stylish designs include an activated carbon panel which absorbs and neutralises flatulence odours. Shreddies range of garments include two styles of Men’s underwear, Pyjamas and Jeans. Visit www.myshreddies.com Prices start from £24.

To advertise in this feature call Hearst Magazines Direct on 020 3728 6260


MH CLASSIFIED

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LECHARL WATCHES ROYAL 38MM, SILVER Lecharl watches combine both a classic and unique style at the same time! Their latest model Royal 38mm is the perfect companion for every occasions and boasts a 316L grade stainless steel case with a sapphire glass and is powered by a Japan Citizen Miyota 2115 movement. Three variations are available. Price from £288 & free shipping worldwide. Check them out and shop at www.lecharl.com Quote MHOCT for a 15% discount

BAMBOO T-SHIRTS Boiga London is a quirky new menswear label, committed to filling a void in the male market. Their Bamboo and Organic Cotton T-Shirts are particularly popular – minimalist yet eye-catching, they are perfect for working out, lounging about or wearing around town. Soft, breathable and packed with benefits including thermo-control and naturally deodorising qualities they not only look good, but feel it too! Plus, the elastane fibres make them ideal for a snug fit - perfect for showing off those guns you’ve been working hard on! www.boigalondon.com

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To advertise in this feature call Hearst Magazines Direct on 020 3728 6260


ONE WORD ANSWER #29

QUESTION

Which notorious white powdered crystals could actually improve heart health?

ANSWER

A

s a mover and shaker on the seasoning scene, salt has long been the subject of opprobrium. Health policy makers have been urging us to reduce our intake since the ’70s, linking the crystals to heart attacks and high blood pressure. However, surprising new research claims that we should now take such suggestions with a big ol’ pinch of sodium chloride. According to McMaster University, low-salt diets could increase the risk of heart disease in healthy men. And while those with hypertension would do well to keep tabs on their habit, for the general population a lower intake was correlated with a greater risk of early death.

Of course, a diet of chips, dips and cured meats will serve up problems beyond mere sodium overload. But it’s nevertheless worth reminding yourself that salt has functions beyond making your Meat Feast so moreish – namely, regulating fluid balance and nerve impulses, while assisting with the absorption of glucose and amino acids. If you really want to earn your salt, we suggest a bacon sandwich as a weekend treat and an electrolyte supplement (such as eletewater.co.uk) immediately after training. As well as assisting with recovery, sodium draws fluid into your muscles, boosting your post-gym pump. It is the season of the harvest, after all.

WORDS: SCARLETT WRENCH | PHOTOGRAPHY: JOBE LAWRENSON

Salt


+ FASHION S O SPORT

AUTUMN / WINTER 2016

BRAND FAMOUS

Overpriced and overhyped: five labels redefining men’s fashion

STYLE SHORTCUTS Meet the main players behind the UK barbershop renaissance

ARCTIC JUNKIES

From ice cap to street, technical outerwear has never been so cool

THIS IS MARO ITOJE. HE IS ENGLISH RUGBY’S CHOSEN ONE IN PARTNERSHIP WITH


ON THE COVER

CONTENTS

Our guide to having the perfect season, be it sporting or sartorial

PHOTOGRAPHER ANDREW WOFFINDEN – STYLIST ERIC DOWN – GROOMING ERNESTO MONTENOVO AT DAVID ARTISTS USING BUMBLE & BUMBLE – MARO ITOJE WEARS JACKET £320 DIESEL AT HARRODS, JUMPER £210 ACNE STUDIOS AT HARRODS, T-SHIRT £60 SUNSPEL, WATCH £5100 ZENITH

EDITOR TOBY WISEMAN – CREATIVE DIRECTOR DECLAN FAHY – STYLE DIRECTOR ERIC DOWN – ASSOCIATE EDITOR MATT HAMBLY – ART DIRECTOR TOM PLUMSTEAD – SENIOR DESIGNER JESSICA WEBB – PRODUCTION EDITOR SCARLETT WRENCH – STYLE ASSISTANT RICCARDO CHIUDIONI – GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR ALUN WILLIAMS – SALES DIRECTOR GEORGINA PARROTT – PRODUCTION MANAGER ROGER BILSLAND – BRAND DIRECTOR TOM LAKE – SENIOR FASHION EXECUTIVE TOM SPRATT – STYLE ASSISTANT LAUREN MITCHELL – STYLE INTERN CAROLINE ARSENIO

15

18

SADDLE UP

PRIME WATCH

If you thought the trade-off for the environmental and physical benefits of cycling to work was the sacrifice of style, think again. Here’s how to ride hard and look cool

Ultra-light, super strong and scratch resistant, a DLC coating is the way to keep your watch looking slick for all time. Choose from our pick of the best

27

28

SURE THINGS

OUTER LIMITS

Fashion is a mercurial entity and trends move apace, but to get the most bang for your buck this autumn, invest in an item from this quintet of future classics

The new union between specialised mountaineering manufacturers and cutting-edge streetwear means your winter coat can be hot in more ways than one

38

48

LOCK & LOAD

HAIR APPARENT

Looking to repeat his unbeaten season for both Saracens and England last year, Maro Itoje talks to UA about his meteo eoricc rise se ffrom o skinny ny schoolboyy to rugb by’s shining h g star

From cut-throat shaves to afro fades, men’s barbering’s growth shows little sign of slowing. We meet the capital’s to so l tra tonsorial t ilblazers a their verry and s t s ed customers satisfied cus

67

74

TALLK SHOP

BIT PARTTS

Freezze-proof p f your y ward drobe b whatever h your b budget: dg our edit d of thee best bombers, puffaas, hikers and hood dies ffor AW16 has yyour searchh for colder-climate gear wrapped pp d up p

The Swiss Army T A knife has served e l explorers, sooldiers a even thee odd and s space man. W We op it up open p annd sh you ho show how the u ultimate multi-tasker g the gets h job j b done


How 2016’s most hyped brands made people want to want them so much

| 10/2016

BELIEVE THE HYPE

09 MH | URBAN ACTIVE |

56


LOOK GOOD

PERFORM BETTER

WORDS: MATT HAMBLY

| 10/2016

I-1 CAMERA ÂŁ297 IMPOSSIBLE PROJECT

INSTANT W KARMA Accommodating the millennial need for speed while delivering the nostalgia of printed ďŹ lm, this throwback gadget is worth snapping up Photography TAL SILVERMAN

hen, in 2008, Polaroid declared it would cease production of the film used by its instant cameras, the shutters appeared to close on a photographic era. However, soon after, three plucky Europeans founded Impossible Project to rescue the format in its death throes. The dismantled machines they inherited meant learning to make film from scratch, but today Impossible finally has its own point-and-shooter: the I-1. So why, in 2016, would you want one? Well, what an iPhone delivers in immediacy, it lacks in permanence. And if the point of taking a photo is about keeping rather than sharing then we might see a welcome slowdown in the selfie phenomenon. But the I-1 is no atavism. It still lets you connect to your smartphone and experiment with filters. This is an analogue instant camera for the Instagram generation. We unashamedly love it.

MH | URBAN ACTIVE |

011


TRAIN AND GAIN Investing in collectible sneakers can be a financial shoo-in. Learn how to shop in order to reap dividends for you and your wardrobe rainers enjoyed their first heyday in the ’80s and early ’90s, a period of fervid sportswear fetishism. From Nike Airs to Reebok Pumps via Troop and British Knights, this was the first era of soft-soled fashion. Then it died a death, with leather uppers and chunky treads taking the front foot. But you’d have to have your head buried in a Grenson shoebox to miss the fact that the tables have turned once more. Trends move apace. Sneakers are back. And this time they look set to endure. “Comfort is the new luxury,” says Pete Williams, Highsnobiety’s managing editor. “Individuals with no obvious interest in sports footwear now want a pair of Yeezy Boosts. And with a wider audience comes greater scarcity and demand.” Indeed, so revered are some trainers nowadays that it’s a smart

T

move to approach them as pieces with cultural collateral as well as wearable assets. In other words, it’s footwear not so much for athletes as aesthetes. “It pays to take a vested interest because the value of rare styles continue to increase.” Of course, no investment is without risk. A burgeoning market also attracts a dearth of low-quality products on which money is easily squandered. So we asked Williams to cast a well-trainered eye over our portfolio and offer tips on how to speculate to accumulate.

01

02

Staying true to your personal taste is a sine qua non of sneaker shopping. “Footwear is a product that, unlike a stock or mutual fund, still has a function if your investment goes sour. But if you aren’t interested in wearing the product to begin with, then you may simply end up with a very expensive paperweight.” You can’t wear an investment bond, after all.

Get to know the market if you want something that’ll mature well. “Nike and Jordan have historically held the most value. However, Adidas is having an extremely strong moment thanks to Kanye West. With changing taste and tech, the value of Adidas models is skyrocketing. But Jordan has proven to have the most longevity, especially the 1, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 11.” It pays to play the numbers.

PHOTOGRAPHY: TAL SILVERMAN WORDS: ALEX HARRIS | STYLING: ERIC DOWN | ILLUSTRATIONS: ALCONIC

STEP INTO THE BREACH BAG A FUTURE VINTAGE


TRAINER TRIAGE Whether they’re an investment piece or everyday kicks, it pays to keep your trainers box fresh. The experts at Crep Protect can show you how

A) Stand guard

B) Your kick fix

C) Scuff luck

You should always cover your shoes with a protective barrier, no matter the material. Not that we want to just say, “Use Crep Protect,” but, yeah, at this stage, you need to spray your shoes with Crep Protect.

Throw them in the machine on 60 and premium materials will be ruined instantly. Instead, use a brush with soft, short bristles (ours are hog hair) so as not to scuff leather or suede. If you want to go even deeper, a microfibre cloth will give a nice shine.

If your shoes are beyond mere soiling, a specific cleaning solution will remove embedded dirt from hard to reach areas. Let the shoes dry then give them a final buffing with a cloth. Still filthy? It’s time to reinvest.

04

05

“If buying from a reseller, make sure it’s on an official channel, with all paperwork in tact. Receipts and feedback from the likes of eBay, Grailed or StockX are key.” And treat them like you wish you’d done your original Star Wars figures: “Keep the box!” Thinking of them like a vintage wine helps. Though laying them down in a cellar is perhaps a step too far.

Love him or loathe him, Kanye West’s line will likely become the highest-yielding investment due to demand. “Yeezy aside, the most coveted styles of all time are the Nike Mag (from Back to the Future II), the Staple x Nike SB Dunk ‘Pigeon’ and the Nike Air Max 1 ‘Patta x Parra’.” Catchy names they ain’t. But find a pair and you could resell for hundreds. Some ultra-rare samples go for thousands.

“Despite a frosty reception to start with, the smart money suggests that the current Under Armour Curry models may be a strong investment in years down the line. Not since the launch of the Air Jordan has one player, shoe or brand held such cultural significance. The question is whether Stephen Curry can shine a light on MJ’s legacy.”

SHOES £110 UNDER ARMOUR BRIEFCASE £450 ZERO HALLIBURTON

THINK INSIDE THE BOX

MAKE A RARE FIND

BARGAINING TIPS

013 MH | URBAN ACTIVE |

03

| 10/2016

GET ON THE CASE FOR SMART SNEAKER INVESTMENTS


Photography MAX OPPENHEIM Styling RICCARDO CHIUDIONI

01

MADE TO MEASURE Before debating the merits of merino and cotton, the most important fit you need to consider is that between you and your bike. Just because you’re not racing, doesn’t mean you can avoid a custom set-up: “Having your bike fitted to you will give you a more aerodynamic and comfortable ride,” says McGrath. “You see newbies with their saddle whacked up, all thinking they’re Mark Cavendish, but it’s rarely the best position for what they are doing.” McGrath advises consulting with experts at a reputable bike shop, then adjusting your position accordingly: “It may feel strange at first, but you’ll reap rewards soon enough.”

BEST IN CLASS If you’re considering splashing out on new wheels there are three universal considerations, whether you’re after a fixed-gear, single-speed or proper road bike: purpose, comfort and budget. If that sounds rather too sensible, you’ve clearly never tried to ride a fixie up a 5% gradient. “It’s important to get the best bike for the job at hand,” says McGrath. “So if you have a long trek into work, you should look at a decent road bike. But if that means parting with more money than you’d like, as long as you don’t have to ride much more than 15 miles then a single-speed is fine. Fixies come into their own on flat, urban terrain – the lack of moving parts makes them easy to maintain.” The fixed cog means that technically you don’t even need brakes. Our advice? Get brakes.

PUFFA £250 PENFIELD – JACKET £145 KIT AND ACE – ZIP UP JUMPER £150 AND RUCKSACK £150 BOTH RAPHA – T-SHIRT £29 CADENCE – CHINOS £100 HUEZ* – TRAINERS £105 NIKE – HELMET £199 HEDON – WATCH £360 TISSOT – SUNGLASSES £95 OAKLEY AT HARRODS – BIKE £1299 CANYON

| 10/2016

Ever since Sir Wiggo’s rapid ascension, cycling to work has become de rigueur for the nation’s commuters. Andy McGrath of Rouleur magazine outlines your rules for life in the bike lane

02

015 MH | URBAN ACTIVE |

WORK/LIFE BALANCE


TRAVELLING IN STYLE

03

YELLOW JERSEY

| 10/2016

“Your commute isn’t a race,” says McGrath, “despite an irritating minority that treat it like one.” This applies to your choice of clothing, too. What might look pretty fly on Mont Ventoux won’t do you any favours on the canal towpath. “Think practically,” says McGrath. “On a short ride to work, wear something that wicks sweat and won’t look out of place at the pub; merino wool fits the bill. You should have cooled off by the time you reach the office – or bar.” And while fluorescents tend not to pass muster in either scenario, reflective strips on lapels and cuffs will keep you safe on the road. “It’s all very well looking like a ninja,” says McGrath, “but come winter you’ll be invisible riding home in the dark.”

MH | URBAN ACTIVE |

016

If looking sharp on the job is non-negotiable, careful planning will save your blushes. Keeping fresh clothes in your office isn’t always practical, so invest in a ‘technical blazer’, which is cut like an unstructured formal jacket, but made from light, weather-proof nylon or polyester. Paired with Levi’s Commuter jeans, you’ll have performance smart-casual down to a tee. Not sharp enough? Check out Paul Smith’s A Suit To Travel In line: tailoring with flexibility and breathability. It’s crease-resistant, too, so you can make your 8.30am meeting while disguising the fact you’ve just ridden a time trial to get there.

BLAZER £530 AND TROUSERS £215 BOTH PAUL SMITH AT HARRODS – CARDIGAN £345 PAUL SMITH – SHIRT £199 Z ZEGNA AT HARRODS – TRAINERS £120 GEOX – RUCKSACK £220 AND HELMET £120 BOTH BROOKS ENGLAND – BIKE £799 FREDDIE GRUBB

THE UA HIGHWAY CODE McGrath lays down the law on urban etiquette

Use Your Head Wear a helmet. By all means pop a cool casquette cap underneath to absorb sweat and look good in cafes. But wear a frickin’ helmet.

See Red Drivers stop at red lights. This is to prevent them from getting hit. Cyclists should stop too. ‘Saving time’ isn’t worth risking death.

Be Knot Afraid If you’re cycling in trainers, tuck your laces in. If they get caught on the pedals, it will at best end in an ugly dismount. Or a painful one.

Think Of Others Look over your shoulder, indicate early, don’t make any unexpected moves. Not all motorists are fascist pigs – they’ve just had to pass a test.

PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: LOUISE ROLLEY | MODEL: JACK HOLLAND AT NEXT MODEL MANAGEMENT | STYLIST’S ASSISTANTS: LAUREN MITCHELL AND CAROLINE ARSENIO | HAIR & GROOMING: OSCAR ALEXANDER AT ERA MANAGEMENT USING FUDGE AND L’OCCITANE | ILLUSTRATIONS: JAMES GRAHAM

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FULL CARBON JACKET For active sorts who like their timepieces none more black, hard or durable, diamond-like carbon coating lends a hint of Gotham City to luxury watch engineering

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Photography TAL SILVERMAN Words ALEX DOAK

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ld fans of satirical website The Onion might recall a classic story lampooning the razor industry’s habit of squeezing additional blades into their razor heads. (“What part of this don’t you understand? If two blades is good and three is better, five would make us the best fucking razor that ever existed!”) It was funny because it was almost true. Thinner blades made from tougher steel meant models like the Gillette Mach3 changed the shaving game. Now the same technology is being applied to an exclusive branch of watchmaking. A thin layer of DLC – or diamondlike carbon coating – is applied to steel sports watches to make them incredibly tough, while remaining light and – much like diamonds – impervious to scratches. It’s a complicated business: in a heated vacuum chamber, an ionized plasma of carbon atoms is attracted to the surface of the steel casing, forming a beautiful black layer just a few microns thick.

Some atoms crystallise into the cubic lattice that we know to be diamond, and some into hexagonal layers, which – as we’re sure you’ll remember from chemistry lessons – is graphite. But before either structure can dominate, the steel is frozen, meaning both solidify into a rock-hard ‘amorphous’ state without brittle fracture planes. Of course, the black-onblack Batman aesthetic has prevailed in the watch world ever since Ferdinand Alexander Porsche left the family sports-car business in 1972, producing a matteblack chronograph using a process called physical vapour deposition, or PVD. But this thin titanium nitride coating is notoriously flaky and cheaper, which is why DLC-coated watches remain rare and more desirable. Here, UA rounds up the wristpieces that’ll stay as fresh as the day they were coated. At the very least, when you strap one on you’ll remember you need a shave.


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01/MONTBLANC TIMEWALKER EXTREME DLC The TimeWalker collection from Montblanc’s cutting-edge Swiss watchmaking division is all about clean, architectural lines with a contemporary edge – all of which are heightened by the application of DLC. Before coating, the steel case and its chronograph pushbuttons are blasted with glass microspheres to give them a finer texture, meaning the finish is matteblack rather than shiny. £4300

02/ORIS AQUIS DEPTH GAUGE The contrast of yellow rubber and steely black on this Oris timepiece is as fierce as a wasp’s abdomen, not to mention practical: as a diving watch, it’s intended to be thrashed about the murky depths by Scuba fanatics. An air channel has been milled around the circumference so that, as you make your descent, the increasing pressure will force the waterair interface around a calibration, acting elegantly as a depth gauge. £2250

03/BREITLING FOR BENTLEY GMT MIDNIGHT CARBON One of the longestrunning car/watch brand tie-ups is that shared by the two so-called ‘winged Bs’. And just as luxury watchmaking is no longer about yellowgold bling, limousines are certainly not all British racing green and maroon leather upholstery – a fact underlined by this racy Breitling watch, inspired by the edgy carbon-trimmed V8-powered models of Bentley’s Continental GT coupé. £10,900

04/BREMONT U-2/DLC

STYLING: RICCARDO CHIUDIONI

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The most literal application of DLC is without doubt Bremont’s tribute to the fearless pilots who continue to police the skies of the world’s shadier nations at altitudes of over 70,000ft, wearing their own exclusive Bremont ‘squadron’ edition. The Lockheed U-2 reconnaissance aircraft, much like its now-decommissioned sister the Blackbird, is painted in antiradar paint, and its deadly shade has been perfectly reproduced in watchform here. £3595

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05/HYT TITANIUM BLACK DLC This is the watch Robocop would wear, assuming future police salaries are 10 times their current amount. The hefty pricetag is down to mechanics bordering on nanotechnology, quite literally pumping new life into the staid world of watchmaking. The two bellows at six o’clock suck and squeeze a mixture of green fluorescein and a clear, viscous liquid around a circular tube, kept separate by the molecules in each. As time goes by, the fluorescent liquid advances around the dial. £42,000

06/CITIZEN PROMASTER DIVER Just half a grand for a DLC-coated professional-spec diving watch seems too good to be true, especially when you consider what else is thrown into the bargain. As well as light-powered EcoDrive technology, it boasts a unidirectional rotating bezel (so that if you knock it, your recorded dive time can only be lengthened, and you won’t risk running out of oxygen). It even has a helium escape valve, should you ever be working in a deep-sea diving bell. £499


Arnold Oceng, star of Noel Clarke’s Brotherhood, talks to UA about training hard, eating dirty, acting with Stormzy and feeling like Beyoncé (in a good way)

UA: Hi Arnold. You’re currently shooting a Danish boxing film. Can you tell us about it? AO: It’s a true story about a boxer called Ayub Kalule. He’s from Uganda but comes to Denmark in the ’70s. where he’s been offered a title shot. Because of the time, he’s like the only black guy there, so he goes through a lot of racism. Have you had to train much to get in shape for the film? It’s next level. It has been months of no drinking, no smoking, eating healthily, training and learning how to box (1). So it’s been hard, but a great experience. I’m in Croatia now; it’s 38 degrees here and we’re fighting in this boxing gym where they choose not to put the air conditioning on to make it look more authentic. You get the gist. What food are you missing the most? Brother! Takeaway, pizzas, KFC, I’m talking everything. Chocolate – I’m a proper sweet tooth guy. And I love beer, I can’t even lie. I’m missing all of it, but I feel like Beyoncé. I feel like if I went to the toilet, glitter would come out. I feel so pure. You grew up in Brixton. We have a piece on the resurgence of authentic barbershops in this issue (see p48). Can you recommend somewhere good for a trim? Oh yeah man, there’s Ruff Cut in Brixton Hill. I used to go there all the time. My cut of choice was short back and sides, maybe a Nike tick at the back. Now I have low fade at the side and slightly longer on top. We also have a suit buyer’s guide in the main issue. Can you tell us about your first good suit? My first decent suit would have to be for the Adulthood premiere. It was an all-white one… I know bruv, so African. And it was by Juicy Couture. Oh man.

In Brotherhood your character Henry is the comedic and emotional crux of the film. He’s come a long way since Adulthood (2)… I said to Noel Clarke, if I come back I can’t still be robbing. It’s got to show some progression. Henry comes back older and more mature. He has a wife, kids, everything. And [rapper] Stormzy makes an appearance, too… Yeah. I knew him from the ends, anyway. He’s a cool guy. We had a big scene together in the film and I think he rose to the occasion. I’m a bit wary when it comes to rappers and people from other genres who come and have a go at acting, but he really did well. Did you hear about his birthday party at Thorpe Park? Ah yeah, of course! I was meant to be there but I was out of the country filming. I’m not sure how I’d top it. He had Nando’s there, you know (3). The US doesn’t really get Nando’s, does it? How much of a difference have you noticed between working in Hollywood and the UK? You know, the first thing you realise is that the levels are just sky high. Take the flights: all first class. Then they pick

you up in a Mercedes, you’re in a big penthouse, it’s like everything you’ve dreamed of Hollywood being (4). Really and truthfully though, when I found out how much first class flights were… mate! I thought, “You can just put that in my pocket and I’ll take a normal flight.” It’s crazy man. But it’s an experience I’ll never forget. You’ve worked with some big names now, but can you remember the first time you were star struck? That would be when I was filming Grange Hill (5) at Elstree studios, the same place where EastEnders and Top of the Pops were shot. You’d go and get lunch in the canteen and bump into Missy Elliot or Destiny’s Child. I’ll forever have love for Dot Cotton as well. Once, I was lining up to pay for lunch and I realised I’d left my money in my costume. She said, “No love, I’ll pay for you.” Lastly, elsewhere this month we’ve compiled some tips on investing in rare trainers (see p12). Do you have a favourite brand? I’m loyal to Nike. You’ve got to have a pair of Air Max 90. All day long, 100%. ‘Brotherhood’ is in cinemas now

FOOTNOTES

01 Kalule won the WBA Super Welterweight title in 1979 before losing it to Sugar Ray Leonard. He’s also a southpaw, which made it more difficult for Oceng, a righty.

02 Oceng’s Brotherhood character, Henry, was last seen in Adulthood, left for dead after being hit with a brick. He returns as the proud owner of a hybrid car among other such domesticities.

03 For his 23rd birthday, Thorpe Park gave Stormzy the run of the place for him and 200 fans. Adidas gave out goodie bags and Nando’s catered with a #Merky burger.

04 In 2014’s The Good Lie, Oceng took on the role of a Sudanese refugee alongside Reese Witherspoon. He was originally passed over for the role on account of being too short. He is 5ft 10in.

05 Oceng played Calvin Braithwaite in the now decommissioned kids’ drama for five years. He was rated 47th in a fan poll of the top 50 Grange Hill characters.

PHOTOGRAPHY: LEO CACKETT | PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: WILL MARSDEN | STYLIST: RICCARDO CHIUDIONI | HAIR & GROOMING: ERNESTO MONTENOVO AT DAVID ARTISTS USING BUMBLE & BUMBLE | ADDITIONAL IMAGES: GETTY, ALLSTAR, NIKOLA PREDOVIC

A LIFE OF GRIME


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“Once, I was lining up to pay for my lunch and Dot Cotton said, ‘No love, I’ll pay for you’”

BLAZER £399 TIGER OF SWEDEN AT HARRODS – JUMPER £270 SOLID HOMME AT HARRODS – JEANS £230 KSUBI AT HARRODS – SHOES £95 CONVERSE JACK PURCELL – SOCKS £15.50 PANTHERELLA

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THREE’S A A TREND Are shower/shave products a timesaving tonic, or a concoction of marketing meetings gone mad? The truth will come out in the wash

ny man who has found himself without a washbag post-gym will know body wash can stand in for shampoo. Likewise, a generously applied face wash will allow for a passable shave. Eager to capitalise on the sink-side MacGyvers among us, new products are being developed to streamline your morning routine. But can something claiming to clean your hair, face and body and provide suitable lubrication for a shave really excel on all counts? The secret to the new wave of unguent alchemy is dilution. “Shampoos have stronger oil-stripping agents than face

washes but there is a lot of crossover,” says cosmetic dermatologist Dr David Colbert. “You can water down a shampoo to cleanse your face quite effectively.” When it comes to shaving, however, it pays to read the small print. “Natural moisturising elements like aloe combat drying effects of chemicals in shampoos,” says Colbert. “For skin conditions – even mild eczema – I would always suggest using a properly targeted product.” But for those short on time and hot on performance, this triple-threat trio will provide head, face and body with all they need. Multitasking is the future, after all.

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This crossover shower gel is surprisingly effective as a shampoo, while its ingredients and scent are gentle enough to wash both face and body. – £18 MOLTON BROWN

02 MORNING

PICK-ME-UP Packed with caffeine, and vitamins C and E, Kiehl’s all-in-one wash has an invigorating after-effect to banish fatigue on even the most rushed morning. – £18.50 KIEHL’S

03 LABORATORY FORMULA

Lab Series’ facial, hair and body cleanser has a super smart ‘non-drip’ formula, which allows it to act as a just-thick-enough shave cream as well. – £19 LAB SERIES

WORDS: MATT HAMBLY | PHOTOGRAPHY: TAL SILVERMAN

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OCTOBER STYLE DIGEST UA’s Style Council reviews the breakout stories of the cooler season MH ASSOCIATE STYLE EDITOR MATT HAMBLY

PEOPLE EDITOR, THE INDEPENDENT JESSICA BARRETTT

STYLE & GROOMING BLOGGER THE CHIC GGEEK

01/ Action Hero In ‘The Mission’, Californiabased watch brand Nixon has created the world’s first action sportswatch-cumsmartwatch. Using Android technology, it features a host of handy applications designed to be used by surfers, snowboarders and anyone in between, tracking your performance and vital signs along the way. For such a functional piece of kit, it looks pretty fly, too. NIXON MISSION M WATCH £350

02/ Trend d It Likke Beckham ec m H&M has a history of slick collaaborations a (just j ask your girlfriend aboutt the hypee behind their Isabel Marant line) and the hoook-up p witth t David Beckham in recent years has beeen a masterstroke. k The h joint collection Modern Essentials co ect onn returns etu s tthiss month o t d jumpers, two-button blazers, featuring navy knitted j a DB coat, and some ccolour in tthe fform off mustard bombers shirts and red nylon b b – made d allll the h more modelled by the man himself. desirable for being m ff.. MH: The truth is yyou could ppitch me bin bags woorn b kh by Beckkham and I’d probaablyy still takke k an interest, simply b because hee can g look good . But make anything g it turns out hee’s just the h icing i on the cake heeree bec because usee the t e collection itselff is reallyy good. d

CG: There’s nothinng here to scare the horses, but then that’ss the point. You coulld do a lot worse w g Beckham. This than copying line is about eaasy dressing g for g people who waant to look good without makinng a huge eff ff ffort. Really, whhat’s not to like??

03/ Cool Points

MH: Considering the explosion of smart tech in recent years, it’s amazing that no one has produced an intelligent watch you can swim with until now. Props to Nixon for the design as well.

CG: My issue with smart watches is that often they’re let down by their interface. Nixon’s looks simple to use, which is a massive plus. Best of all, its looks make it a smart watch you ll can wear any really time,, anywhere. y

JB: Nixon has found its niche in the upper echelons of streetand sportswear. But what’s really smart is that skaters and businessmen alike can pull it off. This is easily cool enough to ttranscend sce d the t e extreme e te e ssports market.

J : Speakingg objectively, JB: j D David kh llooks k attractive in a Beckham sarong, g so perhaps it’s unfair to d clothes l h based b d on how h they h judge look on him. Even so, this is a good g collection off well-designed b basics, and indicative of how the hig gh g street has upped its game off late..

You might not be ready to get on the piste just yet, but Harrods – whose ski room opens this month – knows it’s as much about the lifestyle as the sport itself. MH: It would be easy for a skiwear shop in Harrods to focus on ludicrous couture snow-suits. Instead, it’s mixed old-school know how (Rossignol and Bogner) with ice cold design (Fendi and Canada Goose).

CG: Harrods brand mix demonstrates it’s not just about ostentation. As well as tech experts, it stocks brands like Neil Barrett (whose designer is a keen skier), adding a relevant style edge. JB: The fetishisation of jackets that keep you warm in sub-zero conditions means that even if you don’t plan to set foot on a slope, you’ll find a coat to shield you from the worst British winter can muster.

H&M MODERN ESSENTI SS IALS I S FROM O £155 SKI TOP £505 FENDI AT HARRODS

M S MENSHEALTH.CO.UK CO K


05/ Carry On In Style

04/ Unfair Advantage Footwear brand Athletic Propulsion Labs (APL) is best known for making shoes so good the NBA banned them. (The Concept 1 was said to give “undue competitive advantage”.) But notoriety creates demand, and APL now has a line of gold Techlooms, made exclusively for Harrods.

competitive trainer market is a tall order but APL seems to be on its way. The clever mix of modish design and high performance is making them highly sought after. This Harrods exclusive will only add to the allure.

CG: These are ones for the sneaker geeks. For what is still a fairly young brand – it was founded in 2009 – APL has established itself as a cult label remarkably quickly. With the gold Harrods finish, these will sell out double-quick.

MH: There is a

CG: When a store

advise matching your luggage to your shoes, but Harrys’ design tenets transfer well. The gel padding, borrowed from its footwear, makes these comfortable to carry.

sense of occasion to shopping at Harrods. You’re there as much for the gilding as the garms. Still, Harrods’ brand selection is peerless. Plus, its name commands collaborations from the designers they stock that you won’t get anywhere else.

with the influence of Harrods announces it’s focusing on menswear it’s worth going to investigate. A one-off in terms of its ability to sell the rarest and most expensive items from around the world, the store’s menswear buyers have selected some of the coolest gear on offer and brought it to London. Essential, even if just for window shopping.

make luggage sexy, but look what Harrys achieved with ‘comfy shoes’. The aesthetics are understated and the neat design lets you slot the case and carry bag together.

HARRYS LUGGAGE FROM £1395

DMs LITE FROM £95

Harrods’ motto is Omnia Omnibus Ubique, which is Latin for ‘All things for all people, everywhere’. Lions, BB King’s guitar and £18,000 bottles of champagne aside, this October ‘all things’ applies best to menswear. The store will stock exclusives from Balmain to Lanvin, and Coach and Ami. Something for everyone, then.

MH: I don’t normally

CG: It’s not easy to

MH: Breaking the

06/ A Man Of The World

JB: Investing in expensive luggage makes more sense than you’d think. Extra padding and quality stitching defend your belongings against the rigours of travel, saving you ironing time, and potential repair bills.

LEFT TO RIGHT: BALMAIN £550, PUBLIC SCHOOL £1295, COACH £195 ALL AT HARRODS

07/ Join The Boot Camp After almost 70 years of producing the archetypal industrial boot, Dr Martens is launching three shoes with flexible, featherweight outsoles, based on its classic designs. The 8-eye boot, 3-eye shoe and tasselled loafer are also gaining a moisture-wicking insole. It’s less bovver, more hover. MH: The classic DM

JB: If APL was just another gimmicky brand looking to cash in on a trend I’d be inclined to dismiss it. But its design is scientifically sound, using cushioning to transfer energy back into your run. You’re on solid ground.

JB: If you’re badly dressed in London, you certainly can’t use a lack of good clothes as a get-out. Harrods isn’t cheap but that’s because you’re buying the coolest brands in the world. I would advise investing in a versatile Ami sweater, wearing it on hard rotation until it earns its money back.

hasn’t changed since first designed, which is a major part of its appeal, and attracting new customers at the expense of alienating loyal ones isn’t good business sense. Thankfully, these lites are comfortable from the first wear while still looking like a mean pair of boots.

CG: I’ve always liked the burly aesthetic, but my dainty ankles aren’t strong enough to break in a pair of traditional DMs. So to me these are the perfect compromise, not least for their versatility. It means you can wear them more regularly and not just in conditions that demand heavyduty footwear – such as a Slaves gig.

JB: Dr Martens can look a bit This Is England on a man in jeans. Some might like that – though the dysfunctional racist shtick tends not to do it for me. While I appreciate that these designs look less clompy, I’m still not sold. Though if you’re into Brit subcultural, I can see the appeal.

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Harrys of London makes shoes that appear traditional, but use innovative design for comfort and performance. Now its attention has been turned to luggage, packing intuitive tech.

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TRAINERS £195, APL EXCLUSIVE AT HARRODS


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PHOTOGRAPHY: LUKE KIRWAN | STYLING: ERIC DOWN | SET DESIGN: EAST PRODUCTIONS

FUTURE CLASSICS #01

SCORE A PERFECT 10 Lanvin’s smart sweat marks a decade of style. And gets full marks from us, too

In 2006, Lucas Ossendrijver took over menswear at French label Lanvin, having previously worked for Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme. Ten years is a long time in fashion, where creative directors move faster than Premiership managers. But such has been his success that the Dutch designer chose to commemorate his decade with a collection called,

rather prosaically, 10 Years. But that’s where any accusations of drabness end: this sweatshirt is less conspicuous than other pieces (some of which feature billiard balls and playing cards), and it is embroidered rather than printed – which may explain the price tag. An investment, sure, but it’ll still look sharp come 2026. £590 Lanvin at Harrods

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High-concept, performance outerwear has found itself a new home: the city. Urban Active takes a look at how technical clothing designed to withstand the cold has become urban streetwear’s hottest property Photography LARS BORGES – Styling ERIC DOWN – Words MATT HAMBLY


DEEP IMPACT In testing, this Nobis parka was able to withstand 10m of water before soaking. Just don’t swim in it –

0m

5m Nobis parka

COAT £995 NOBIS – GILET £245 PORSCHE DESIGN SPORT BY ADIDAS AT HARRODS – SWEATSHIRT £185 JW ANDERSON AT HARRODS – JOGGERS £195 BELSTAFF AT HARRODS – SHOES £285 MONCLER – SOCKS STYLIST’S OWN

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TEAM STRATEGY

–The ‘street meets summit’

look is rooted in North England football culture. “That fans started wearing tech outdoor gear with sportswear was as much due to circumstance as style,” says Mark Smith of Stockport-based magazine Proper. “It’s cold out on the terraces.” This led outerwear and streetwear brands to find common ground – think Supreme collaborating with The North Face or Stone Island. “Mixing up styles, brands and heritage is de rigueur,” says Smith – “so long as there’s cohesion in fabric or shape.” A down gilet with Nike SBs? Fine. A DB blazer with trackies? Not yet.

DARK MAGIC Stone Island’s ‘thermo chromatic’ coating means the coat gets darker as the air cools –

+ 37ºC Body temp

+ 12ºC UK Avg

+ 4ºC Fridge temp

0ºC Freezing

COAT £1195 STONE ISLAND – HOODIE £415 BALENCIAGA AT HARRODS – JOGGERS £485 BALENCIAGA AT HARRODS – RUCKSACK £170 CÔTE & CIEL – BOOTS £300 Y-3


– Outer Wear

derby in the past 30 years will testify to the longstanding link between outdoor brands and terrace fashion. But it’s Canada that kick-started the recent trend of technical gear as streetwear. Specifically, Canadian rapper Drake: “His look – Moncler parka, tracksuit and Timberlands – was a new take on something familiar,” says Smith. “He’s taken a British working class lad’s sensibility and twisted it.” That Canada is also home to the world’s biggest and best cold-weather brands (Nobis, Canada Goose and Arc’teryx...) may also help.

COAT £1050 CANADA GOOSE BLACK LABEL – JACKET £425 CP COMPANY – T-SHIRT £350 VALENTINO AT HARRODS

Manchester’s coldest record (January 2013)

0ºC

-17.6ºC Coldest temp in Toronto, Canada (January 1859) -33ºC

-70ºC –80ºC Jan

Canada Goose’s Snow Mantra is tested to -70ºC

Dec

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–Any spectator of a Merseyside

GOLDEN GOOSE It gets chilly north of the border, so Canada Goose coats are seriously warm. You might even call them over-engineered

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ALL RAPPED UP


DOWN-GRADED

–Down is fetishised by men who take performance-wear seriously. This fine layer of feathers beneath birds’ outer plumage is ultra light and warm. But, says Smith, these days it’s largely a matter of heritage: “Details such as down fill [the amount a jacket contains per square inch] are traditionally seen as signs of quality,” he says. “However, improvements in synthetic linings mean these can be even lighter and just as warm.” It’s a personal preference: if you want to go classic, think Peak Performance or Woolrich; if you’re more contemporary try 7L or Arc’teryx. On today’s street, both looks are solid.

BOMBER JACKET £295 PEAK PERFORMANCE – TROUSERS £260 NEIL BARRETT AT HARRODS – BOOTS £300 Y-3 – WATCH £1130 BALL – RUCKSACK £320 PIQUADRO

GET DOWN Feathery ‘down fill’ is expressed in cubic inches per ounce. The higher the fill, the warmer your jacket will be –

750+ 550750 500550

in3/oz

400450

Medium

Good

V good

Excellent


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– Outer Wear

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FROZEN ASSET

–Quality technical wear doesn’t come cheap for good reason. “Expedition parkas are expensive due to the time and ingenuity that goes into making them,” says Smith. “You may not plan to trek the Arctic in yours, but the point is you could. It’s the same reason the design of classic coats has changed so little; they got it right first time.” Still, tech advances from the likes of Berghaus iterate perfection. But a good piece will more than hold its value: “There’s a healthy resale market for vintage coats from the likes of Stone Island and CP Company.” Think of it as a good down payment.

SEAL OF APPROVAL For the Ramche 2.0 jacket, Berghaus teamed up with Nikwax to develop a down that won’t clump when wet. Here’s their not-so-secret formula: –

1 Water beads up on contact with Nikwax material

2 Force from rain or snowfall distorts beads

3 Water repellent fibres resist and repel the water

Water

Forced water

Nikwax surface

JACKET £350 BERGHAUS – HOODIE £130 EMPORIO ARMANI AT HARRODS – T-SHIRT £300 Y-3 – JOGGERS £69.95 NIKE AT HARRODS – BASEBALL CAP £25 STARTER


PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: JAMES RAWLING | MODEL: AARON MILLER AT AMCK MODELS HAIR & GROOMING: OSCAR ALEXANDER AT ERA MANAGEMENT USING CLINIQUE | STYLIST’S ASSISTANTS: LAUREN MITCHELL, CAROLINE ARSENIO AND RICCARDO CHIUDIONI

–When buying a coat, focus on finding a match for your lifestyle. “If you plan to spend time in potentially severe conditions, go for something waterproof with good down fill,” says Smith. If looking fly is on the agenda try Moncler’s collaboration with Off White. And if the harshest elements to which you’ll be exposed feature on the daily commute, consider a vest: “Many men have an adverse reaction to gilets, but they shouldn’t. A vest from Patagonia will have years of expedition expertise behind it, keeping you warm without bulk.” Thermals may be having a moment, but the idea is still to look your coolest.

LOCKDOWN Moncler’s parka was designed with Off-White, the brand belonging to longtime Kanye collaborator Virgil Abloh. Here’s his polymathic pie chart: –

Being Kanye’s creative director Collaborating with Moncler

Designing Off-White

350 flights a year

Vegas DJ residency Cleaning his Yeezys

Directing Kimye selfies

PUFFA JACKET £1450 MONCLER O – GREY COAT £670 Y-3 – SWEATER £975 VERSACE AT HARRODS – TROUSERS £70 FILA – WATCH £1130 BALL

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– Outer Wear


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PHOTOGRAPHY: LUKE KIRWAN | STYLING: ERIC DOWN | SET DESIGN: EAST PRODUCTIONS

FUTURE CLASSICS #02

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RIDE IN COACH CLASS An American brand with a British idea: a jacket that will make you pray for rain

If US brand Coach doesn’t mean much to you at the moment, now is the time to get on board. Established 75 years ago in Manhattan, primarily as a purveyor of accessories, it recently appointed highly regarded British designer Stuart Vevers (formerly of Mulberry and Louis Vuitton) as its creative director. The positive effect on its ready-to-wear offering has

been swift, as this asymmetric biker jacket shows. It’s slim-cut yet shearling lined, keeping you warm should the weather turn ugly. True, this being quality leather, it’ll cost you. But the old adage of ‘buy right, buy once’ couldn’t be more apt. Expect an item that will improve with age – and envy from savvy acquaintances. £1750 Coach at Harrods


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LEFT PAGE JACKET £320 DIESEL AT HARRODS – JUMPER £210 ACNE STUDIOS AT HARRODS – T-SHIRT £60 SUNSPEL – THIS PAGE BOMBER JACKET £150 ALPHA INDUSTRIES – SHIRT £30 TOPMAN – TROUSERS £295 BURBERRY PRORSUM – SHOES £75 ADIDAS ORIGINALS – SUNGLASSES £285 OLIVER GOLDSMITH – WATCH £8650 OFFICINE PANERAI

Maro

Photography ANDREW WOFFINDEN – Styling ERIC DOWN – Words MATT HAMBLY

At the tender age of 21, the not-so-tender specimen that is Maro Itoje has already been dubbed ‘The Chosen One’ of English rugby. He also happens to be a politics student with an appreciation of style and poetry. UA tackled the rising Saracens star to find out what makes him stand apart


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aro Itoje is feeling relaxed. This morning he returned from a week in Marbella and tomorrow night he’s flying out to LA, having recently sewn up one of the most remarkable rugby seasons in modern sporting history. Over the course of the 2015/16 campaign, Itoje won – deep breath now – the Premiership and European cup double with Saracens, the Premiership Young Player of the Year award and the European Player of the Year award. He also made his international debut, won every game he started for both club and country and was part of the first ever England side to whitewash Australia down under in June. Perhaps it’s too early for reflections, or maybe he’s just spoilt for choice, but Itoje struggles to pick a highlight from such a momentous year. “Winning the Premiership back-to-back, winning Europe for the first time, that was pretty special for all of us,” he says coolly. “But winning my first cap for England and being part of the first team in 13 years to win a grand slam… I was pretty happy with that.” Thirteen years is a long time in rugby, not least when you’re only 21 years old. Aged just eight when England won their only World Cup final in Sydney, Itoje showed little interest in the sport as a youngster. Instead, his first sporting idol was Muhammad Ali, a figure with whom he fell in love after listening to his father regale him with tales of the boxer’s heroic exploits. Rugby would not come for a few years yet and, when it did, Itoje claims it was not the most auspicious of beginnings. “If you were to ask any of my academy coaches they’d tell you that I was one of the least natural players they’d seen,” he

laughs. It’s possible he is being modest. Born in Camden, north London, Itoje enjoyed a privileged education at the illustrious public school Harrow, thanks to a sports scholarship. There he showed prowess in a number of sports, from basketball to shot-put (he’s represented England in that, too). But when the rugby did come, it came quickly. The more he played, the more he improved. Five years after taking the sport up he was playing for England U17s. “The more I got into it, the more I grew,” he says. And grow he did. Itoje is a sculpted leviathan, standing at 6ft 4in and weighing over 110kg.

Rise From The Flanks It’s not easy dressing well when you’re that big, which is perhaps why rugby players tend not to be the slickest of men. But Itoje is sharper than most. “I have to shop around to find stuff that fits,” he says. “I buy a bit on the high street and I go to underground stores like Dying Breed and Culture Kings. But I also like a good suit. My size is a bit unorthodox, so I get my suits made to measure.” His dress sense, he says, is classic, unfussy, with a modern twist. Itoje favours plain, well-fitting T-shirts, pressed white oxford shirts and sharp black tailoring. The rail on our shoot is, he admits, more colourful than what he’d usually wear, but he’s nevertheless calm and comfortable in front of the camera. Rather less so is MH style director Eric Down, who hovers anxiously lest a 17-stone lock hulk out of a Burberry bomber jacket. It wasn’t always this way. “At school I was very lanky,” he says with a soft voice at odds with his newfound size.

Keen to bulk up, Itoje was put on a diet of 5000 calories a day – not uncommon for a fully-grown prop forward, but a formidable amount for a 16-year-old schoolboy. It paid off. Itoje is now a key figure in one of the heaviest packs in rugby union, standing tall in the England second row but with the athleticism to play back row if required. Find yourself next to him in the gym and he can, if asked, complete a pull-up with a 70kg weight hanging from his waist. Drop it to 50 and he’ll give you five. Flat on his back he’ll bench 165kg, but, in his own words, “I don’t squat.” And that’s fine with us. He is also earning a reputation as a brick-wall tackler. Sir Clive Woodward refers to his defensive abilities as “devastating”. An ESPN writer once described the 19-year-old Itoje as “a thinking man’s enforcer”. Google “Julien Bardy Bump Off” and you’ll find a clip of the Clermont flanker being bulldozed by a rampant Itoje. In other words, if his rapid ascent into top-tier rugby has been too fast, he’s certainly not letting it show. “There was a big step up in physicality,” he admits. “The guys I’m playing with now are a lot bigger. So the kind of things you can get away with at schoolboy level, I can’t get away with now. But I’m happy the chance came sooner rather than later.”

In The Big Leagues The focus now appears to be stopping success going to his head. Earlier this year, England coach Eddie Jones had a twinkle in his eye as he talked about transforming Itoje from a Vauxhall Viva into a BMW. Would Itoje agree with the workaday family hatchback comparison? Only half-chuckling, he says, “I think I’m

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“Being part of the first team in 13 years to win a grand slam... I was pretty happy with that”


– Maro Itoje

JACKET £395 BURBURRY PRORSUM – WATCH £3020 TUDOR


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“As a citizen of this country I think you should be able to express your views as you see fit”

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042 DENIM JACKET £85 LEVI’S – JACKET £550 MONCLER AT HARRODS – SWEATER £115 STONE ISLAND AT HARRODS – JEANS £160 7 FOR ALL MANKIND AT HARRODS – BOOTS £185 TIMBERLAND – WATCH £5100 ZENITH


– Maro Itoje

SHIRT £355 LANVIN AT HARRODS – JEANS £485 VALENTINO AT HARRODS – WATCH £16,400 IWC


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“When I was younger I wrote a few poems and people started saying I was the new Shakespeare”

SHOT AT SPRING STUDIOS | PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: WILL RICHARDS | STYLIST ASSISTANTS: LAUREN MITCHELL, CAROLINE ARSENIO, RICCARDO CHIUDIONI | HAIR & GROOMING: ERNESTO GU C AT DAVID ARTISTS USING BUMBLE & BUMBLE | ILLUSTRATIONS: JAMES GRAHAM MONTENOVO

| 10/2016 BOMBER JACKET £500 ASTRID ANDERSON – SHIRT £150 TRUE RELIGION AT HARRODS – JEANS £110 EDWIN

– WATCH £9550 BULGARI


– Maro Itoje

a lot better than a Vauxhall Viva. I’m not too sure what car I’d describe myself as. But I’d say it’s an improvement on a Viva.” It’s a typically reserved comment from a man whose teammates like to call him The Chosen One, or Mandela (“I’m not entirely comfortable with that one, to be honest,” he laughs). Everything he says is considered carefully and he prefers to talk about the team rather than feel the spotlight on himself. He is quick to point out losses and hard runs as well as victories; times when Saracens have had to dig in and show some character. “There’s a lot of banter aimed my way in the training ground,” he says. “I think the team are just trying to keep my feet on the ground. To begin with, people didn’t really know what I was like, but now they know I’m not one to get carried away.” Doubtless this is a character trait to which Itoje’s mother and father must be credited. When Harrow came knocking, having heard about his prodigious talents, his parents made it clear that if he didn’t get the grades, he wouldn’t be throwing balls around. “My parents ensured my education never suffered,” he says. “It’s easy for teenagers to get over-excited playing sport. I come from a family where education is very important.” They needn’t have worried – Itoje left school with straight-As and is now studying politics at the prestigious SOAS institution, around his rugby career. “I’m on the home straight of my degree now and my parents have been a big part of it,” he says, before coming out with the kind of earnest comment not normally heard in the depths of the scrum. “I think I’m handling the pressure of balancing everything alright,” he says. “I’m not a Kardashian, so no one’s camping outside my door. But as a citizen of this country I think you should be able to express your

COAT £645 PAUL SMITH – T-SHIRT £65 ORLEBAR BROWN – JEANS £32 TOPMAN – SHOES £375 HARRYS OF LONDON – WATCH £20,400 AUDEMARS PIGUET

views as you see fit. If a sportsman wishes to demonstrate their political position, I don’t think that’s bad. If there’s something I feel strongly about, I won’t be afraid to say it.” Well, quite.

Field Of Dreams When UA meets up with Itoje there is still a month before the Premiership season restarts. In between holidays he’s been training lightly (this morning: a painful session on the wattbike) but soon he’ll be preparing full-time for Saracens’ title defence. Longer term? Woodward has suggested he has what it takes to be a future England captain – is that where Itoje sees himself headed? “I don’t want to get into hypotheticals but I think if I focus on all areas of my game, hopefully I’ll get there one day.” A level-headed, albeit stock answer to an admittedly hackneyed question, then. But in this context it seems legit. Itoje is right to refer to the captaincy as hypothetical, but it’s fun to speculate whenever a player of his quality emerges. It’s in the modern pro sportsman’s job spec to get used to being mythologised. This is a man whose height increases incrementally on Wikipedia as fans seek to amplify his stature. Then there’s his fabled second career as a poet that’s proved irresistible to tabloids and broadsheets alike. (For the record: “When I was younger I wrote a few poems and people started saying I was the new Shakespeare. I enjoy a good poem, but I’m not massively into it.”) People will continue to sensationalise this young colossus with the strong heart and the keen mind for a while yet. But with more wins and more stellar performances, they won’t need to resort to mythology. Itoje will let his body do the talking. @maroitoje


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PHOTOGRAPHY: LUKE KIRWAN | STYLING: ERIC DOWN | SET DESIGN: EAST PRODUCTIONS

FUTURE CLASSICS #03

SIGN UP TO BOOT CAMP Jodhpurs have kicked off their rural roots and made a step to the city streets

From chukkas to Chelseas, ankle boots have enjoyed a style renaissance of late, so it was only a matter of time before Jodhpurs followed in their tread. Their history may be rooted in equestrianism – the slip-on fastening, slim toe box and supportive monk-strap made Jodhpurs perfect for the stirrup – but it’s the way in which this works with a slim, tapered

trouser leg that has caused the likes of Saint Laurent and John Lobb to reintroduce them to their stables (pun partially intended). Like the Chelsea boot, their virtue is versatility. An elegant silhouette means they work with tailoring as well as denim. And in this traditional brown, you’d be a foal to get it wrong. £125 Aldo

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After generations languishing in the tonsorial doldrums, the barbershop is enjoying a renaissance. Urban Active took a Belmont chair at five of the capital’s most distinguished shops to find out what’s driving the razor revival Photography JONATHAN DANIEL PRYCE - Words DANIEL MASOLIVER


SOHO’S CUT & GRIND WEAVES HIPSTER COOL WITH OLD-SCHOOL BARBERING VALUES


THE AUTHENTIC OLD SCHOOL - MOSH BARBERS IT’S EASY TO SPOT THE REGULARS AT EAST LONDON’S MOSH: THEY’RE THE ONES PATIENTLY SIPPING ON TURKISH TEA AS THE NEWCOMERS ARE TENDED TO BY A HIGHLY SKILLED TEAM OF CUTTERS – AND EYEBROW THREADERS

SETTLE IN FOR A SHORT BACK (AND LONG BLACK)

Name Mosh Solmaz, owner Experience 27 years Why do people come to you? Turkish barbers are the best in the world, because the training back home is the best. You start working at 12 years old, sweeping floors and watching the barbers. I started at 12, but I wasn’t handed a pair of scissors or clippers until I was 14. I spent two years just cleaning. What makes Turkish barbers special? Everything we do is designed to make you feel fresh and clean at the end of a treatment. We use burning methylated spirit, tapped over the ears to singe off fuzzy baby hairs. After shaves, we use a cleanser to

THE HIPSTER HEART - CUT & GRIND PART COFFEE SHOP AND SOMETIME MUSIC VENUE, SOHO’S CUT & GRIND SITS AT BARBERING’S RAZORSHARP POINT. ITS EMPLOYEES – INVARIABLY TATTOOED WITH NEATLY CRAFTED FACIAL HAIR – CERTAINLY KNOW THEIR WAY AROUND A CUTTHROAT Name Hari Efthymiades, owner and head barber Experience 25 years Why did you open Cut & Grind? We wanted to have this environment where people don’t have to have a haircut. They can come in, grab a coffee, sit down and chill out. It’s the old-school community, but bringing it back in a modern way. What was your inspiration? I was brought up in Peckham. I remember coming home from a night out at one o’clock in the morning and all the black barbershops were still open. Everyone was just chilling. That was lost when guys started going to the ladies’ hairdressing salons. Here, on a Friday, Saturday night, the last appointment is at 11pm, the bar’s open downstairs and there are bands or DJs playing music. Have you incorporated any old-school touches?

We’re keeping it all very traditional. When you finished your haircut back in the day, they put cologne on your neck. Not Tom Ford or Dsquared2 – it was Old Spice. That’s what we’re using, and the guys love it, because that smell takes them back to their fathers or grandfathers. Also, after our service, everyone gets a hot towel. Times have moved on, but I want to keep that tradition. What trends are you noticing? Most of the guys coming here are going for a complete re-style. A lot of the very, very short skin fade stuff is in for the younger people. The older guys are leaving the top a lot longer, loose and textured, and with an undercut that you can barely see when it’s combed, but looks striking when it flops down. instagram.com/cutandgrind

prevent blackheads, then a refreshing hot towel followed by a soothing moisturiser. And I do threading, where I run a length of thread between my teeth and use it to remove the small hairs between the eyebrows or on customers’ cheeks. Very few barbers know this here – I learned it in Turkey. What styles are customers asking for? A lot of our customers are still asking for the Essex-style combover – a high fade and the parting swept over to one side. But now more people are going for longer, swept-back hair on top, like Al Pacino. 242 High Rd, E10 5PW Customer feedback: “I live six miles away but I’ve been travelling to see Mosh for the last 12 years. He won’t let you off the seat until he knows you’re satisfied. I’m not Turkish, but I love this style of barber’s. It’s more of a grooming centre than a straight-up hairdresser. And it’s a nicer, cleaner finish.” Faisal, 35, Redbridge

IN A CULTURALLY DIVERSE CORNER OF EAST LONDON, ‘MOSH’ IS THE WORD LOCALS KNOW MEANS QUALITY


– The Cutting Edge

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THE NEW LAD ON THE BLOCK - RUFFIANS WITH ITS SHARP CUTS, BRANDED PRODUCTS AND, UM, OWN-LABEL PALE ALE, RUFFIANS HAS BECOME A DRAW FOR BOTH HOMEGROWN HIPSTERS AND TREND-TRACKING TOURISTS. ITS FOUNDERS PRIDE THEMSELVES ON ITS ATMOSPHERE AS MUCH AS ITS EXPERTISE

Name Denis Robinson, senior barber Experience 24 years Have you noticed a growing interest in barbering? Hugely – especially in the last five years. I started doing hair in 1992 when I was 14, and that coincided with the launch of unisex salons. Most guys didn’t want one of the four standard cuts barbers tended to offer, so it started to die out. Why is Ruffians so popular? Guys like the fact that they can come to a traditional barbershop – not a women’s hair salon – and not be assaulted by the smells of ammonia hair colour and people having manicures. There’s a sense of it being a boys’ club; they enjoy that. Do you still use cutthroats? Absolutely. You need nerves of steel to use a cutthroat razor around someone’s carotid. I once cut George Bush Sr’s hair. At the end, I pulled out my razor – I see these secret service agents freeze, and one of them reaches for his gun. Taking a cutthroat to the neck of the former leader of the free world apparently makes people nervous. Is the beard over? Not yet. If anything, it’s going more mainstream. About 20% of our business is made up of looking after facial hair. But it is changing: we’re seeing more types of beard; more ‘maintained’, as opposed to the unkempt hipster look. And lots more full ‘taches. ruffians.co.uk

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WITH ITS VINTAGE AESTHETIC, THE COVENT GARDEN SHOP HAS BECOME A DESTINATION IN ITS OWN RIGHT


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BRIXTON’S IDENTITY HAS BEEN RE-SHAPED, BUT KLASSIQUE IS STILL A CUT ABOVE

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THE SOUL OF THE COMMUNITY - KLASSIQUE IN NEWLY GENTRIFIED BRIXTON, KLASSIQUE STANDS AS A PROUD REMINDER OF THE DISTRICT’S AFRO-CARIBBEAN HERITAGE. YOU MAY NOT BE OFFERED A COOL CRAFT ALE, BUT YOU WILL ENJOY A WARM WELCOME FROM ITS FAMILIAR ROSTER OF BARBERS Name Robert Smith, barber Experience 16 years How has the shop changed over time? Klassique has been here for about 11 years now, and I’ve been here for most of that time. It has changed over the years – there’s a mixture of people coming: black, white, Syrian, all different races. Brixton is a different place these days. Why do people keep coming back to Klassique? It’s not

about haircuts per se, it’s about getting to know each other. Have a drink, have a laugh – that’s the main thing. Friendly barbers and a friendly atmosphere is what it’s all about. People feel safe here. We just try to run it to the best of our ability. What’s the most popular style? Every hairstyle, it comes and it go. Like the Mohawk – it’s dying out at the moment, but a few months ago it was a thing. Now everybody wants the


– The Cutting Edge

THE OLD MASTER - TRUEFITT & HILL IT’S BEEN 211 YEARS SINCE MESSRS TRUEFITT AND HILL FIRST OPENED THEIR DOORS, THEIR ST JAMES’S STREET SHOP LIVES ON AS THE COUNTRY’S OLDEST EXTANT BARBER. TODAY IT BEARS A ROYAL WARRANT FROM THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH (WELL, IT IS HIS LOCAL)

high top. Some of the other barbers do a lot of patterns, but I’m not really the pattern type. I’m more classic. 81 Atlantic Rd, SW9 8PU Customer feedback: “I got my first haircut here when I was a boy and I’ve been coming back ever since. When I was a child I wanted patterns and designs, whereas now it’s a low fade. As I’ve got older my style’s changed, but they’ve always adapted to that. Often it’s the same people you see in hanging around here, so it’s a familiar setting every time you come. Everyone makes you feel welcome.” Ainsley, 21, Brixton

OIL PAINTINGS AND AGE-WORN PHOTOS OF THE SHOP’S PAST PATRONS ADORN THE OAK-PANELLED WALLS

Name Gino Rusu, master barber Experience 13 years Why do people come to Truefitt & Hill? There’s a movement, especially among younger gentlemen, toward genuine things. They don’t want a barbershop that opened two weeks ago, they want something original. We have gentlemen who have been coming here every week for 40 years for their shaves, but we’ve also had a huge influx of younger clientele coming in for treatments. Have you adapted to keep up with the times? Since 1805, our client list has been a Who’s Who of British history – Charles Dickens wrote about us in his novels. But we’re careful to ensure we balance our sense of heritage with what gentlemen require in the modern day. We keep track of all the runway styles, but we maintain traditional skills and our history. How does that heritage manifest itself? For shaves we use cutthroat razors and

handmade badger hair brushes that hold much more water than synthetic ones – very important for a close, smooth shave. And we still use our patented CAR Cream, developed by the RAC for Mr Truefitt and Mr Hill around 1900 when convertibles first came into style, so that gentlemen could arrive at a dinner party without their hair looking like a windswept mess. A lot of our products have fun stories behind them. They’ve been developed over the years to meet gentlemen’s ever-changing needs. What are your most poplar cuts? I would say the most popular ones are still the conservative ones. Not too short, scissor-cut above the ear, often with a side parting. The more traditional clients prefer natural-looking hair, but many of them use our tonic lotions and oils. We cater for all types. truefittandhill.co.uk


PIONEER SPIRIT I

n the bitterly cold depths of remotest Alaska, a team of fearless and highly skilled mountaineers dedicate their lives to rescuing those who fall foul of the treacherous landscape. Known as the Parajumpers, they’re decidedly the most deserved (not to mention awesome) inspiration for a luxury clothing brand that we’ve come across yet. The brainchild of designer Massimo Rossetti, Parajumpers jackets fuse high-tech methodology with old-school Italian craftsmanship, creating a rugged, versatile yet exquisitely luxurious outerwear range truly worthy of the men who inspired it.

Bring out your inner adventurer with real Italian flair, with Parajumpers, available at Harrods. For more info visit parajumpers.it/en LOOK FLY

You’re a man of the world, and no jacket better reflects that than the ‘Josh’. The strokably soft, hand-waxed lambskin leather shapes itself to your body over time, telling the story of your adventures, be they in the arctic circle or the commuter belt.

TRAVEL WALLETS (GREEN AND BROWN), PASSPORT CASE BY SMYTHSON, PEN KNIFE BY VICTORINOX, WATCH BY CITIZEN, HIP FLASK & BELT BY BRITISH BELT COMPANY, HEADPHONES BY BEATS, PENCIL (SET OF 4) BY CARAN D’ACHE, T-SHIRT BY DAN WARD, JACKET & SUNGLASSES BY PARAJUMPERS

MH PROMOTION

IF YOU WANT TO FEEL LIKE A HERO, YOU CAN START BY DRESSING LIKE ONE


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PHOTOGRAPHY: LUKE KIRWAN | STYLING: ERIC DOWN | SET DESIGN: EAST PRODUCTIONS

FUTURE CLASSICS #04

KEEP IT IN THE FAMILY Tag Heuer’s reinvention of the 53-year-old Carrera is a model for the future

In the punctilious world of watchmaking, few things are carried out at speed. But in 1963, after just one year at the helm of his family’s business, Jack Heuer launched the Carrera – a flying start, in horological terms. Still, since its launch, this iconic model has reverted to type and done little but age gracefully. How, then, does Tag keep its classic watch

relevant in 2016? By paying tribute to its journey, of course. While the Carrera Heuer 01 is unmistakably of the family, it also manages to feel futuristic with a skeleton structure and bold black and red design. The perforated rubber strap keeps it gym-friendly, too. The Carrera is going nowhere – in the best way. £4000 Tag Heur exclusive to Harrods

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ESTABLISHING A VESTED INTEREST IS KEY FOR BRANDS TO REIGN SUPREME


HYPER Market A small conglomerate of designer brands have established a cult fanbase outside the traditional menswear industry. Their clothes are exclusive, limited and often staggeringly expensive. UA investigates whether you should believe the hype Photography MAX OPPENHEIM – Styling ERIC DOWN – Words DANIEL SANDISON & CALUM GORDON


In THE Beginning LIMITED RUNS FROM THE STREETWEAR VANGUARD KEEP ADHERENTS ON THE EDGE OF THEIR SEATS

exclusive + striking (sometimes to the point of poor taste) products that were once the preserve of streetwear have started being adopted by some of high fashion’s most estimable houses. Gucci has recently been revitalised by Alessandro Michele’s fulsome brand of lurid kitsch. Meanwhile, Balenciaga has appointed new creative director Demna Gvasalia, someone you will probably know as the man behind Vetements, the French brand most famous for creating a £185 DHL T-shirt. And while the sight of overnight queues outside skate stores is no longer unusual, the ability to sell an oversized hoodie bearing a print from Titanic for in excess of £500 – as Vetements did earlier this year – represents a high watermark in the business of hype fashion.

“In my 36 years in the business, we’ve always seen the ‘insiders’ brands’ and low-on-the-radar labels that are either uncovered or discovered and then fetishized,” says menswear veteran and former Drapers Record editor Eric Musgrave. “But in the past 15 years of the digital era, it has become much easier firstly to find out about such brands, and secondly to purchase them online. An interesting discussion, of course, is whether ‘hype’ brands are genuinely discovered or whether they just cleverly market themselves as such.”

THE SKATING GAME New York-based streetwear label Supreme is undoubtedly the master

VEST £30 BOXERS £30 BOTH SUNSPEL, SOCKS STYLIST’S OWN, CHAIR £10 HABITAT MODEL: NICHOLAS SINCLAIR AT NAMED MODELS | PROP DESIGN: LOU BLACKSHAW

there were just whispers: obsessive, sometimes geeky teenagers queuing around the block for limited edition basketball shoes or one-off T-shirts. It was underground, for the most part. If you knew, you knew and if you didn’t, you didn’t. There were clunky, online fan forums to be trawled, yet whole towns, countries, sometimes oceans separated the like-minded souls that frequented them. This was pre-Instagram. There weren’t any websites or apps to tell you when shoes would drop, no social influencers, and certainly no interest from the fashion community. Before the advent of so-called hypebeasts, before Kanye West improbably sold out his Madison Square Garden fashion show, before the emergence of a multi-million dollar re-sale industry, there were just whispers. Today, those whispers have grown louder. They have become hype. For a generation raised on the addictively instant gratification of social media, hype has become the most valuable and coveted marketing tool a brand can possess. More than any nuanced design features or weighty concepts behind a collection, it is the fervent desire for an ‘it’ product that fuels both the streetwear industry and, more recently, the runways of Milan and Paris. The formula of niche +


– Hype Brands

to get your hands on some rare-breed Supreme, you have to run the gauntlet of the store’s less-than-helpful store assistants. This customer disservice approach has only served to increase the brand’s cache among those craving its approval. “Skateboarding has never been nice. Let’s make that clear. It started as an outsider thing, and skateboarders have always been assholes,” explained Angelo Baque, Supreme’s brand director, in a recent interview. “If you have legitimate skaters working in stores then they are going to be fucking assholes. I love them for being who they are. If you don’t like it then don’t fucking shop there.”

and retail strategy, turning his initial $12,000 outlay into a burgeoning hype empire with 10 stores across the world (six of which are in Japan) and a net worth estimated at $40 million. The secret? Limited runs of sought-after items would be released in-store, and once they were gone, they were gone. This is something that Jebbia maintains was a pragmatic business decision, in order to ensure they were not left sitting on masses of stock at the end of each season. But in doing so, he created a hyper-exclusive model for the brand’s niche product. This was further augmented by creating a purposely intimidating retail environment – shops run by skaters, for skaters. If you want

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of the hype arts. The label has maintained a staggeringly consistent level of heightened popularity among rarefied circles for over two decades, with queues of disciples lining up outside its New York and London stores every Thursday, when new lines are released. The brand’s iconic red box logo, which is based upon (and controversially appropriated from) the work of conceptual artist Barbara Kruger, has become a nonpareil streetwear status symbol. Founded by ex-Stussy employee (and, somewhat randomly, former Grange Hill child actor) James Jebbia in 1994 from a small store in Manhattan, Supreme started out as a humble skateboarding label. Jebbia would go on to develop a highly successful and unique business

This formula of bad attitude and high exclusivity is increasingly becoming the blueprint for any newly launched brand. “Traditional menswear is very fixed, in my opinion,” says Robert Marshall, the Hong Kong-based editor of Hypebeast magazine and website. “Designs tend to remain fairly static, while fits and silhouettes change to match current trends. But Labels like Supreme and Vetements are pushing boundaries in street fashion, where all the eyes are. This in turn has influence on the traditional brands who want to maintain relevancy. Everyone is looking for something or someone to tell their story. Fashion is no different.” Perhaps few have spun a better yarn in recent years – and reaped the rewards of unfettered hype as a result – than 31-year-old Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy. His designs may be paraded on the catwalks of chichi Paris, but his following consists largely of teenagers (as well as swathes of cool industry admirers). It is not simply his designs – largely inspired by his post-Soviet childhood, a love of sportswear and a semi-ironic marriage of the two – that have seen him gain such cult popularity. Crucially, he has built a world that fashion- and internet-savvy kids want to buy into. As a brand, Rubchinskiy takes in photography, skateboarding and art, all enveloped by an overarching

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GROOMING: OSCAR ALEXANDER AT ERA MANAGEMENT USING BURBERRY | PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: LOUISE ROLLEY

NAME YOUR PRICE


Hype Brands –

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BELIEVE THE HY HYPE: THE CATWALK SHOWS OF VETEMENTS AND GOSHA OSHA RUBCHINSKIY

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rawness, with the clothes often feeling like a natural extension of these sensibilities. Much like Supreme, it goes deeper than fabric. The hype is fuelled by being part of his gang. The same can be said of Vetements, whose popularity is clearly as much about being a paid-up member of the gang as the frankly questionable designs themselves. Charging eye-watering prices for incongruously basic (some might say crude) garments might sound like a capitalist joke, but it has fostered an unrivalled send of exclusivity – and subsequent inclusivity among those who have parted with their cash. Even if asking £185 for a yellow t-shirt emblazoned with a red DHL logo is a joke, it begs the question of whether the wearer is being laughed with or at. Inevitably the brand has drawn criticism for this, against which Gvasalia himself has hit back, claiming that it’s relative to the cost of production and the quality of the garments. Kanye West similarly backtracked on his promise to make Yeezy Season 3 affordable earlier this year, and, despite his lo-fi sportswear aesthetic, Rubchinskiy’s output retails for significantly more than the high street garb it frequently references.

COMPLY AND DEMAND For all the staunch defence of high production values, however, it seems fair game to ask whether there isn’t something more calculated going on. For instance, is the tall price of gaining access to these cliques and clubs really worth it? Or is it all just one big confidence trick? “I have a sort of bittersweet feeling for these brands,” says Marshall. “On the one hand, fashion is self-expression in its truest form, so

HYPE has Died before and it WILL Again everyone deserves to wear something that they feel reflects who they are on the inside. On the other hand, because there are now so many brands claiming to represent an alternative ‘lifestyle’, people are latching on to rhetorics that they don’t necessarily understand, let alone believe in.” The idea that these streetwear brands are playing a cute marketing trick on both their adoring public and impressionable hangers-on is moot. The more rarefied and exclusive their wares become, the more they represent a big business commercial opportunity. “The balance to be struck is whether brands wish to remain niche and therefore small, or larger but still giving the impression that they are small,” says Musgrave. And it’s the latter model that appears to be having it off. But is such a business model sustainable? In the world of streetwear, Supreme has proved to be the exception to the rule, while many counterparts have faded into comparative obscurity. Brands like A Bathing Ape and Stussy were both accustomed to commanding similar levels of hype 10-20 years ago.

But sheens fade, the eager fanatics who would once queue interminably have long since gone, and few scramble for their newly released products. “Hype has died before and it will again,” claims Matt Welty, associate sneaker editor at Complex magazine. “The hype already died once around 2009 when the recession hit in America. People started getting into #menswear and heritage items and put their allover print hoodies to the back of their closets. But brands still found a way to cater to this audience, even if their purchasing habits had changed. We may not be hyped on the same stuff, but as long as there’s a limited supply, there will always be a big demand.” The charm and genius of a label like Supreme is in its multi-faceted, almost random output. References change from season to season with little in the way of continuity or common ground. Whether it’s Shane MacGowan of the Pogues one month or a collaboration with Playboy the next, customers keep coming back for more. It’s for this reason, perhaps more than any other, that the brand’s cult appeal has outlasted competitors. The challenge for high fashion brands like Gosha Rubchinskiy and Vetements is whether they can emulate this longevity. In four or five season’s time, will Gvasalia’s creations still be selling out instantaneously? He has managed to sell us £185 DHL T-shirts, but the pressure to recreate seasonal ‘it’ items – the kind that have lent heavily to Vetements’ allure – is a thankless task. Such is the ephemeral nature of hype: it can disappear in an instant. And, as any kid who lines up outside Supreme each Thursday will tell you, once it’s gone, it’s gone for good.


DEVOTEES QUEUE AROUND THE BLOCK TO CLAIM THEIR STAKE IN THE RARE STITCH PROJECT


FEEL THE STRETCH

FLYING THE FLAG

FOR RUGGED, INNOVATIVE AND ON-TREND MENSWEAR, THERE’S ONLY ONE TRUE RELIGION

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f it ain’t broke, don’t fix it is surely one of the greatest fallacies to enter the British lexicon. Was the horse-and-cart ‘broke’ when Brunel built his railways? Or the candle when Edison gave us the lightbulb? Innovation means taking what’s right there in front of you and reinventing it for the modern age. And when it comes to casualwear, they don’t come more innovative than True Religion.

WHITE TEE £49 JEANS £299

The LA-based brand has become famous for rethinking and revamping wardrobe staples, crafting menswear that’s flexible yet fashionable, unique yet universally appealing. Take their signature MOTO Biker jeans (above): the super-stretch denim means you can pull off a skinnier-fit leg without sacrificing your masculinity, creating a pair of jeans that give your everyday style a cutting edge. Praise be.

BEAT THE COMPETITION TRUE RELIGION HAS TEAMED UP WITH ENGLAND RUGBY SUPERSTARS LUTHER BURRELL AND ELLIOT DALY TO OFFER YOU THE CHANCE TO WIN A NEW WARDROBE TO THE VALUE OF £1000, HAND-PICKED BY THE MASTERS OF THE OVAL BALL* TO ENTER, VISIT MENSHEALTH.CO.UK/TRUERELIGION

True Religion’s innovation doesn’t stop at clothing: this summer, the worldrenowned denim maestros opened the doors to their first ever international flagship store, on London’s Carnaby Street. By using tech to combine the best of digital and IRL shopping, they’ve created a truly unique temple to menswear. See for yourself, or find True Religion in Selfridges, Harrods and online: eu.truereligion.com

*TERMS AND CONDITIONS APPLY

MH PROMOTTION ON

GREY TEE £69 JEANS £149


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PHOTOGRAPHY: LUKE KIRWAN | STYLING: ERIC DOWN | SET DESIGN: EAST PRODUCTIONS

FUTURE CLASSICS #05

STAY AHEAD OF THE PACK Mixing luxe aesthetics with high-tech design, Armani’s rucksack carries the show

Given its obvious concession to utility, the backpack is often overlooked as something of a worker bee compared to more sybaritic holdalls. However, Emporio Armani’s calf leather rucksack is a bona fide honey trap – suitable for swank occasions, without compromising on essentials such as rigid construction or practicality

(see the grand handle and adjustable buckles). Firmly disposed of are any schoolboy camping trip connotations: no bright colours and no nylon straps. Instead the body is made from black, calf skin leather, which makes it smart enough to get you from office to gym without breaking sweat. £740 Emporio Armani

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THE EDIT

021C THE PANTONE NUMBER FOR THE MA-1’S LINING. AFTER A CRASH IT WAS USED TO ATTRACT SEARCH PLANES, PLANES SO ALL EYES ON YOU

Bad weather is coming, breezing in with a host of ice-cold kit. Use our style experts’ inclement edit to have winter fashion all wrapped up

£1450 GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI AT HARRODS

£1125 VALENTINO AT HARRODS

£185 ALPHA INDUSTRIES

FLIGHT CLUB

£60 TOPMAN

The original ’50s MA-1 bomber was high-functioning in low temperatures. Still warm, now it’s the height of cool

£1950 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN AT HARRODS

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£195 CARHARTT WIP

£40 H&M

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PHOTOGRAPHY: HEARST STUDIOS | STYLING: ERIC DOWN

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£30 NEW LOOK

£650 PUBLIC SCHOOL AT HARRODS £425 CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN


£145 TOMMY HILFIGER

£120 DUNE

£665 LOUIS VUITTON

SOCIAL CLIMBERS

£320 DIEMME

£695 JM WESTON

Designed as utilitarian footwear, now adopted as a casual mainstay, hiking boots are the all-terrain shoes for crossing sartorial borders with ease

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£250 HACKETT

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068 £195 RUSSELL & BROMLEY

£230 GRENSON

978 THE HEIGHT IN METRES OF BRITAIN’S HIGHEST PEAK, SCAFELL PIKE. PULL YOURSELF UP BY THE BOOTSTRAPS

£1045 RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL

£60 RIVER ISLAND


£245 ORLEBAR BROWN

£925 FENDI AT HARRODS

£369 GEOX

£395 CP COMPANY

PUFF PIECES

£220 LACOSTE LIVE

Padded jackets punch well above their weight for warmth and, thanks to the resurgence in luxe tech sportswear, they’ve stepped up a weight class in style, too

£180 NORTH QUARTER BY CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

£220 NAPAPIJRI

77 YEARS SINCE EDDIE BAUER PATENTED THE FIRST QUILTED JACKET. DUBBED THE SKYLINER, IT’S WARM EVEN AT ALTITUDE

STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: RICCARDO CHIUDIONI

£495 VICTORINOX

£625 CANADA GOOSE AT HARRODS

£525 STONE ISLAND AT HARRODS


SPORT + FASHION

BE THE BEST AT EVERYTHING MEN’S HEALTH HAS TEAMED UP WITH HARRODS TO CREATE A SERIES OF UNMISSABLE WEEKEND EVENTS THROUGHOUT OCTOBER. JOIN US TO CELEBRATE OUR URBAN ACTIVE SPORTS FASHION SUPPLEMENT Men are competitive creatures. We’re always looking for ways to improve; to become that little bit sharper, smarter, faster – all with one admittedly grandiose goal in mind. In short, we want to be the best at everything. Over the past few years, menswear and technology have intertwined to dizzying effect. Never before has sports apparel reached such heights of style, or had the potential to boost performance to such an acute degree. Men’s Health’s Urban Active magazine, in partnership with

Harrods, was created to champion the rise and rise of sports fashion. And to celebrate its third year, we’re holding a trio of events at Harrods across three weekends in October, giving MH readers and Harrods customers the chance to peruse cutting-edge gear from the world’s greatest brands, while taking on unique fitness challenges for the chance to win priceless prizes. Join us this October in Harrods to test your body to the limit and try out the next generation of performanceoptimising sportswear.

1-2 OCTOBER TEST YOUR REACTION TIMES AND AGILITY WITH ADIDAS 8-9 OCTOBER TAKE ON THE BOXING RIG WITH UNDER ARMOUR 15-16 OCTOBER WORK OUT WITH A MASTER TRAINER WITH TECHNOGYM ALL EVENTS 2-6PM EACH DAY @ HARRODS, MEN’S CASUALS AND SPORTS FASHION, FIFTH FLOOR

#HARRODSXMH


£50 SUPERDRY

£129 POLO RALPH LAUREN

£55 NEW ERA

IN THE HOOD

£42 ELLESSE

From sportswear to counterculture, hoodies epitomise lo-fi fashion. Worn under a leather, denim or even suit jacket, they’ve got you covered

£56 FRANKLIN & MARSHALL

£205 MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN AT HARRODS

£150 LACOSTE

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THE NUMBER OF YEARS HOODED GARMENTS HAD BEEN WORN IN THE UK BEFORE THE GOVERNMENT TRIED TO BAN THEM

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071 £90 RON DORFF

£220 STONE ISLAND

£280 DSQUARED2 AT HARRODS


STOCKISTS #–

7 FOR ALL MANKIND AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM 7L LN-CC.COM

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ACNE STUDIOS AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM ADIDAS ORIGINALS ADIDAS.CO.UK THE NUMBER OF ALDO PAINSTAKINGLY SELECTED ALDOSHOES.COM ITEMS FEATURED IN ALEXANDER OUR EDIT (P67) MCQUEEN AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM ALPHA INDUSTRIES MA-1.COM ASTRID ANDERSEN ASTRIDANDERSEN.COM AUDEMARS PIGUET AUDEMARSPIGUET.CO.UK

D– E–

F–

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DIEMME DIEMMEFOOTWEAR.COM DIESEL AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM DSQUARED2 AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM DUNE DUNELONDON.COM EA7 AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM EDWIN 020 7836 4108 ELLESSE ELLESSE.CO.UK EMPORIO ARMANI ARMANI.COM EMPORIO ARMANI AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM FENDI AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM FILA FILA.CO.UK FRANKLIN & MARSHALL FRANKLINANDMARSHALL.COM FREDDIE GRUBB FREDDIEGRUBB.COM

AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM O– OAKLEY OFFICINE PANERAI PANERAI.COM OLIVER GOLDSMITH 0800 011 9747 ORIS ORIS.CH/EN ORLEBAR BROWN ORLEBARBROWN.CO.UK SMITH AT HARRODS P– PAUL HARRODS.COM PAUL SMITH PAULSMITH.CO.UK PEAK PERFORMANCE SNOWANDROCK.COM PENFIELD PENFIELD.COM PIQUADRO PIQUADRO.COM POLO RALPH LAUREN RALPHLAUREN.CO.UK PORSCHE DESIGN SPORT BY ADIDAS AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM PUBLIC SCHOOL AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM

BALENCIAGA AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM BALL BALLWATCH.COM BELSTAFF AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM BERGHAUS BERGHAUS.COM BREITLING FOR BENTLEY BREITLING.COM BREMONT BREMONT.COM BROOKS ENGLAND BROOKSENGLAND.COM BULGARI 020 7314 9304 BURBERRY PRORSUM UK.BURBERRY.COM CP COMPANY CPCOMPANY.CO.UK CADENCE CADENCECOLLECTION.CO.UK CANADA GOOSE AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM CANADA GOOSE BLACK LABEL CANADAGOOSE.COM CANYON CANYON.COM CARHARTT WIP CARHARTT-WIP.COM CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN CHRISTOPHERRAEBURN.CO.UK CITIZEN CITIZENWATCH.COM COACH AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM CONVERSE JACK PURCELL CONVERSE.COM COTE & CIEL COTEETCIEL.COM

NIKE AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM NIKE NIKE.COM NOBIS NOBIS.COM NORTH QUARTER BY CHRISTOPHER SHANNON FLANNELS.COM

LAUREN PURPLE LABEL R– RALPH RALPHLAUREN.CO.UK RAPHA RAPHA.CC/GB/EN/ RIVER ISLAND RIVERISLAND.COM RON DORFF RONDORFF.COM RUSSELL & BROMLEY RUSSELLANDBROMLEY.CO.UK HOMME AT HARRODS S– SOLID HARRODS.COM STARTER STARTERBLACKLABEL.CO.UK STONE ISLAND AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM STONE ISLAND STONEISLAND.CO.UK SUNSPEL SUNSPEL.COM SUPERDRY SUPERDRY.COM HEUER TAGHEUER.CO.UK T– TAG TIGER OF SWEDEN AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM

G– H–

GEOX GEOX.COM GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM GRENSON GRENSON.COM H & M HM.COM HACKETT HACKETT.COM HARRYS OF LONDON HARRYSOFLONDON.COM HEDON TOKYOBIKE.CO.UK HUEZ* HUEZ.CO.UK HYT AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM

I–

IMPOSSIBLE PROJECT IMPOSSIBLE-PROJECT.COM IWC IWC.COM

J–

JM WESTON JMWESTON.COM JW ANDERSON AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM

K–

KIEHL’S KIEHLS.CO.UK KIT AND ACE KITANDACE.COM KLÄTTERMUSEN KLATTERMUSEN.COM

KSUBI AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM

L–

M–

N–

LAB SERIES LABSERIES.CO.UK LACOSTE LACOSTE.COM LACOSTE LIVE LACOSTE.COM LANVIN AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM LEVI’S LEVI.COM LOUIS VUITTON LOUISVUITTON.CO.UK MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM MOLTON BROWN MOLTONBROWN.CO.UK MONCLER AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM MONCLER MONCLER.COM MONCLER O MONCLER.COM MONTBLANC MONTBLANC.COM NAPAPIJRI NAPAPIJRI.COM NEIL BARRETT AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM NEW ERA NEWERACAP.CO.UK NEW LOOK NEWLOOK.COM

TIMBERLAND TIMBERLAND.CO.UK TISSOT TISSOTWATCHES.COM TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY.COM TOPMAN TOPMAN.COM TRUE RELIGION AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM TUDOR TUDORWATCH.COM ARMOUR U– UNDER UNDERARMOUR.CO.UK AT HARRODS V– VALENTINO HARRODS.COM

VERSACE AT HARRODS HARRODS.COM VICTORINOX VICTORINOX.COM

Y– Y-3 Y-3.COM ZEGNA AT HARRODS Z– ZHARRODS.COM

ZENITH ZENITH-WATCHES.COM ZERO HALLIBURTON ZEROHALLIBURTON-UK

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COAT £900 7L – SWEATSHIRT £55 ADIDAS ORIGINALS – JACKET (AROUND WAIST) £295 KLÄTTERMUSEN – SHORTS £130 EA7 AT HARRODS

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Hit refresh on your wardrobe. Upgrading your style for AW16 will feel like a breeze


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MANUAL LABOUR

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SPACE SAVER When astronaut Chris Hadfield docked at the Mir space station in 1995 he and some edgy colleagues were met with a hatch that was sealed “a little too enthusiastically”. Fortunately, Hadfield had a Swiss army knife to hand. He now claims never to leave Earth without one.

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BLADE TRINITY

The standard swiss army knife’s blade is 91mm long and the alloy is made from a triumvirate of iron, 15% chrome and 0.6% carbon, giving the ideal composition of hard and brittle. Then, to really sharpen up, all the tools used for slicing are tempered at 1040°C.

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HANDLE WITH CARE

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SHORT CUTS

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NUTS & BOLTS #2

ARMED AND ADVENTUROUS It’s standard issue for army treks, space missions and DIY endeavours. What gives the Swiss Army knife its enduring edge?

T

he original Swiss Army knife, patented 119 years ago by Karl Elsener, had relatively few tools attached to its revolutionary spring mechanism, including two blades, a can opener and a corkscrew. Nowadays, of course, they’re available in hundreds of variants, from laser pointers and bitwrenches to USB keys – though city adventurers might be forgiven for thinking it’s the corkscrew that remains the tool’s most useful facet. Urban Active sat down with Urs Wyss, marketing director at Victorinox, to find out how the Swiss Army knife came to be – and why it’s still around.

The knife’s smaller blade was originally intended to sharpen pencils and whittle wood, or as a back up when the larger blade dulled. Assuming you have these scenarios covered, we suggest saving it for more intricate, delicate jobs, such as cutting the foil on a nice burgundy.

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BEST TOOL FOR THE JOB The components that separate each tool are where a sharp eye for detail really makes the knife a cut above. Originally made from a nickel-silver mix, they switched to an aluminium alloy in 1951 to limit weight and make the mechanism buttery smooth.

The original handle in the 19th century was made from a mix of dark wood and fibre for grip, but wouldn’t wear the cross and shield motif until 1909. Elsener trademarked them with a name taken from his late mother, Victoria, and ‘inox’ meaning steel.

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THE SHARP END The little pointy thing? It’s either an ‘awl’ or ‘reamer’ depending on whether you’re piercing holes in wood or metal. And the groove at the hilt of the bottle opener? It’s used to strip plastic off wires. Whether DIY and drinking mix is still unclear, mind.

WORDS: MATT HAMBLY | PHOTOGRAPHY: TAL SILVERMAN | SWISS ARMY KNIFE ASSEMBLING KIT £39 VICTORINOX

This model, called the Spartan, is a replica of the first knife that Elsener patented. If you’re an expert and feeling sharp you can assemble it by hand in 60 seconds. Of the 50 or so Victorinox assemblers, nearly all are women. They have a better feel for the job, apparently.


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