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N. 2/2021 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via R. Gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a. Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - € 7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi. T

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export.magazine@mteedizioni.it

THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE

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EVENTS On the cover: New regenerating treatments, by Transvital of Switwerland

N. 2 ANNO XLI MARCH-APRIL 2021 BIMONTHLY MARZO-APRILE 2021 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO) Art Director Teresa Tibaldi Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it

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TFWA Cannes Cosmoprof Asia BeautyIstanbul Meadfa

FLASH/NEWS 8-23-38

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5 Elementi di Byblos 6/7 Transvital 9 Salvatore Ferragamo 10-11 Collistar 14 Police 15 Pupa 21 Bruno Acampora 22 Carthusia 24 Simone Andreoli 25 Teaology 35 La Compagnie de Provence 37 Brioni

report 12-13 26/29 30-31 32-34

Tailwinds and turbulence in China’s pandemic recovery – Mind-Set 2021: The year of hapy beauty – Valérie Kaminov Global luxury market 2020 – Faceiceglobes The subscription box economy – Valérie Kaminov

Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli Roberto Cimarosa - Valerie Kaminov Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni

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EVENTS

TFWA announces TFWA 365 TFWA announces new digital platform and strong events programme aiming to support travel retail industry recovery

The TFWA Board has outlined plans for a number of new initiatives aiming to provide the duty free and travel retail industry with the vital platforms and

resources it needs, as the Association announced further support for the industry through its upcoming trade events and new digital platform. At a press conference earlier today, Singh and the TFWA Board thanked its permanent staff and Management Committee for their hard work and resilience during this difficult time. They went on to explain how the new decisions being made were taken with the entire industry at front of mind, and with acknowledgement of TFWA’s central philosophy of ‘by the trade for the trade’. During the conference, the creation of a new online platform called TFWA 365 was announced. This will be launched at the TFWA Asia Pacific Hainan Special Edition digital event held from 21st to 24th June. TFWA 365 is a permanent resource that will provide year-round support and a range of services for TFWA members and industry partners.

For further information: www.tfwa.com

A strong programme for Tax Free Asia Pacific Hainan Special Edition TFWA also announced a strong programme for the TFWA Asia Pacific Hainan Special Edition online conference and workshops, including high-level panel discussions featuring the world’s leading retailers and travel associations. Detailed plans for the TFWA World Exhibition & Conference have yet to be finalised, and a number of contingency measures are in place to meet the requirements of rapidly changing circumstances. However, the Board stressed the considerable demand and desire for a physical event, and the importance of the personal relationships that are the bedrock on which the industry is founded. It assured that whatever the format of that event will be, the Association will step up and make every effort to provide the platform the industry so desperately requires. Among the new offers will be a Hosted Buyers Programme, which will give delegates an unrivalled opportunity to engage with key contacts, essential to the success of any virtual or live trade event.

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EVENTS

COSMOPROF ASIA The 25th edition of Cosmoprof Asia will be held from 17 to 19 November 2021 one venue: hybrid format

With around 2,000 exhibitors from international markets anticipated, Cosmopack and Cosmoprof Asia 2021 will, for this year only, be held under one roof at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre(HKCEC). This one-time consolidation of both events will feature a hybrid format, running a parallel digital platform available for all stakeholders unable to travel to Hong Kong. The digital tools will allow for online connection between all companies and professionals visiting the fair district, therefore optimising new business opportunities and enhancing the capacity for global networking. BolognaFiere and Informa Markets, the exhibition organisers, are proud to transform the iconic fair as it celebrates its quarter century into a truly inclusive and global event by pivoting to the new hybrid format. In addition, consolidating Cosmopack and Cosmoprof Asia (typically held at Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) and AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE)), under the single roof of HKCEC means in-person buyers will maximize their time by sourcing from 13 product sectors all in one venue. Product sectors include Cosmoprof Asia’s finished products categories of Cosmetics & Toiletries, Beauty Salon, Nails, Natural & Organic, Hair and the new areas “Clean and Hygiene” and “Beauty & Retail Tech”. Meanwhile, Cosmopack Asia will host suppliers from Ingredients & Lab, Contract Manufacturing, Primary & Secondary Packaging, Prestige Pack & OEM, Print & Label, Machinery & Equipment.

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Capturing Asia-Pacific’s beauty market

Cosmoprof Asia has long been a vital industry benchmark for stakeholders worldwide interested in developments in the Asia-Pacific. Asia-Pacific is the second largest beauty market in the world after Europe, and it was the first region to restart after the pandemic breakdown, as highlighted recently by the latest annual report by McKinsey & Company. Being held in Hong Kong, the perfect business hub and an international finance centre, the exhibition is the “gateway” for the main markets in the region. In China, a unique example globally, beauty sales increased in the first half of 2020 thanks to Chinese consumers spending more on the domestic market. Generally speaking, China’s economy is projected to grow by 8 to 10% between 2019 and 2021; at the same time, the remarkable development of e-commerce in South-East Asia – above all Singapore, Indonesia, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia, and the Philippines – is expected to offer fresh new opportunities to international players. Cosmoprof Asia is more than ever one of the fundamental meeting events for the Cosmoprof international community this year, thanks to its hybrid format,” declared Antonio Bruzzone, General Manager of BolognaFiere and Director of Cosmoprof Asia. “We are focusing on offering seamless digital connections for virtual attendees while guaranteeing total safety for in-person visitors keen to experience Cosmoprof Asia “as normal”. Opening up the exhibition to an even wider global audience enhances the business opportunities and networking capacity for all. Cosmoprof Asia 2021 makes it easy for global beauty industry players to focus their investment in Asia-Pacific, where the strongest driving economies in the world are currently located.” “We look forward to delivering an even better Cosmoprof Asia in 2021, with the hybrid format opening up the event to an unprecedented audience worldwide, thanks to the combination of digital and face-to-face visitors. We are proud to be pivoting to this exciting new format while celebrating the momentous 25th anniversary of Cosmoprof Asia,” said David Bondi, Senior Vice President – Asia of Informa Markets and Director of Cosmoprof Asia Ltd. “At the same time, we are excited to share our year-round, on-going calendar of digital opportunities designed to maximise the engagement of global buyers and suppliers. We look forward to greeting you all, online and in-person, at Cosmoprof Asia 2021.”


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ELEMENTI DI

BYBLOS

THE EVOLUTION CONTINUES

The Byblos brand, with its Classico, Gemstone, Sole e Luna and For Men collections in the Elementi range, is constantly evolving. This line of essences is inspired by the elements of nature, ever-changing and evolving, and which finds its balance in movement and in transformation. These are the principles that also guide the brand in its constant research in fashion. They also relive here in a series of contemporary fragrances, which are young and innovative. The new graphic design offers packages with a minimalist and geometric flavour, echoing the latest fashion collections presented on the runway, and a triangular cut-out in the outer packaging, hinting at the perfume contained inside. The Classico collection comprises the fragrances Mare, Cielo, and Ghiaccio and the Gemstone collection is made up of Aquamarine, Rose Quartz and Amethyste. The duo of Sole e Luna complement one another as they do in nature.

Restyling for its most successful lines Elementi di Byblos for Men are Leather, Carbon, Metal and Stone. Common to all these fragrances is consideration for a nature that is respected, valued and reinterpreted with the fresh and essential taste of today, with accords and harmonies that are never the same, but unique, allowing the Elementi di Byblos to connect with the men and women who choose to wear them.

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TRANSVITAL

New regenerating treatments for renewed and vital skin New Regenerating Treatments In a preventive treatment, a normal cosmetic would improve the appearance of your skin’s surface. The Regenerating Line has a different principle: to regenerate cells and stimulate them so that they live longer. In other words, to contrast the natural

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ageing process by generating new and more vital skin. Thanks to the very high technological content of the Swiss formula, the active ingredients in the range interact directly with the cells. The face finds what it has lost; it appears different when wakening, regenerated. As if its youth has been prolonged.


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The results CELLULAR REGENERATION: +27% in fibroblasts, shown with immunofluorescence tests. CELLULAR LONGEVITY: the tests show an increase in the longevity of keratinocytes and fibroblasts of 17% and 10%. CELLULAR DNA PROTECTION: -21% in damage caused to the cellular DNA from exposure to UVB and UVA rays. SMOOTHING OF WRINKLES: forehead lines treated with hyaluronic acid micro-spheres filled by +77% and smoothed out with a depth reduction of -54%.

The eyes light up with the future

At the base of the line is the Skin Regenerating Complex, an exclusive Transvital complex with rejuvenating and anti-ageing effects. It contains a combination of plant extracts, consisting of tannins, soy lecithin, plant orsirtine peptides, hyaluronic acid microspheres, gold and platinum. The other fundamental active ingredient is Matrixyl

3000®, a peptide in the family of matrichines, which are peptide fragments, messengers of the natural tissue repair process. It stimulates fibroblasts, the cells responsible for the synthesis of collagen and elastin, to reconstitute the skin’s extracellular matrix and stimulate the synthesis of collagens, fibronectin and glycosaminoglycans.

Regenerating eye A precious treatment for the eye contour, it stimulates skin regeneration and prolongs cell longevity in the delicate eye area. It has highly energising, moisturising properties.

Regenerating cream

Regenerating serum

A global anti-ageing treatment that induces a deep regeneration of skin cells and an increase in cellular life. Combines the filler and lifting effects for complete reshaping. The skin is regenerated, the contours of the face are reformed, and the wrinkles are smoothed out.

A concentrated, intense, latest generation serum, it is the perfect complement to the Regenerating Cream. It boosts skin regeneration and increases cell longevity. It performs energising, anti-ageing, moisturising and smoothing actions.

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FLASH/NEWS

TFWA Asia Pacific Hainan Special Edition moves to all-digital format

TFWA Asia Pacific Hainan Special Edition will now move to an all-digital format, taking place from 21st June to 24th June. The move comes after careful consideration of the unprecedented circumstances surrounding the global health crisis by the TFWA Board and Management Committee. The TFWA team is now fully focused on delivering a world class virtual event for industry professionals to ‘meet’, network and learn more about the latest duty free and travel retail developments in the Asia Pacific region in a digital environment. All workshops and meetings planned via TFWA’s ONE2ONE service will now take place online, while Tuesday’s conference will be livestreamed to delegates across the world. “Our all-digital format for TFWA Asia Pacific Hainan Special Edition will prove invaluable and enlightening for attendees looking to conduct business in a vibrant online environment, and to gain insight into the rapid recovery of the Asia Pacific travel market. After this event, all eyes will turn to Cannes as our first opportunity to personally greet the industry once again. Clearly this event, coming after such a long hiatus, will be even more eagerly anticipated than ever, and no effort will be spared to make this a worthy platform to celebrate the return of travel.” TFWA President Jaya Singh

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OPENS A CHANEL NEW SPACE AT HAMAD INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

The Qatar airport now hosts a new round space of 33 square metres, where the entire collection of Chanel perfumes can be discovered at the olfactive bar developed by the Chanel Fragrance Laboratory. Thanks to an innovative ceramic blotter system, the table houses all Chanel fragrances, including the famous No. 5, which celebrates 100 years of celebrity this year, and its five interpretations. At its heart the location will house Les Exclusifs de Chanel, including Le Lion, the latest addition to this collection of now 18 fragrances. The retail space is designed to offer an exclusive environment to experience the world of Chanel fragrances, while being serviced by a specialized team of fragrance advisors. Structured by a contrast of black and white space, with beige and gold, this new space echoes the unique codes of the House of Chanel, recreating a luxurious “boutique style” ambiance and embodying the distinct Chanel spirit.


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MINI SIGNORINA the iconic Ferragamo The Signorina line continues to evolve, embodying a celebration of the different personalities of every woman. Romantic, mysterious or a rebel: however she feels, the Signorina woman never abandons a pinch of irony. It is in this playful spirit that Signorina reinvents herself and becomes Mini Signorina, a collection of mini sizes of Signorina Eau de Parfum, Signorina Ribelle, Signorina In Fiore and Signorina Misteriosa. Signorina Ribelle is a creation with notes of floriental and oriental notes that opens with lively contrasting notes of mandarin, red pear and pink pepper, enveloping a magnetic heart of ylang ylang, frangipani and jasminein intriguing tones of coconut milk, vanilla ice cream and chic sandalwood. Signorina Eau de Parfum, a fruity floral jus, merges the elegance of an unexpected duo of jasmine and panna cotta, vibrant pink pepper, rose and peony petals and a fine trail of patchouli and musk. Signorina in Fiore is a romantic floral universe in which juicy nashi pear sorbet and pomegranate meet an enchanting crescendo of cherry blossom

Fragrances in a new format

and jasmine, enveloped by the softness of sandalwood and musk. Signorina Misteriosa is an audacious and seductive fruity oriental fragrance, exalted by the liveliness of wild blackberry and enclosed between opulent orange blossom and sensual tuberose, in an irresistible embrace of black vanilla mousse and patchouli.

Celebrating the different personalities of every woman in an eye-catching mini size The iconic and elegant Signorina bottle is reinterpreted in a reduced size that is both innovative and joyous: 20 ml to exalt the joyful mood of Signorina. A precious crystal cube with the famous Vara grosgrain bow of Salvatore Ferragamo which holds the iconic identity of Signorina.

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COLLISTAR The boosted Magnifica range for visibly younger skin

The structure and the surface of the skin are the areas targeted by the Magnifica formulas to combat skin ageing where it occurs. The Collistar solution is a global, multi-level anti-age treatment with skin-friendly ingredients that work in synergy.

A triple anti-age action with skin-friendly ingredients that work in synergy To help fight ageing, Collistar Research has selected and carefully prepared a combination of skin-friendly active ingredients with a triple anti-age action: Boosted Replumping Effect thanks to Sesame Seed Extract, Multi-Level Redensifying Effect produced by two next-generation peptides and Advanced Repairing Effect, thanks to encapsulated plant cholesterol. The treatments stand out for their high capacity for penetration, outstanding efficiency and optimum tolerance, even for sensitive skin.

A commitment to Clean Research The new Magnifica project has Clean Research and sustainability at its heart. With its rigorous scientific approach, Collistar removes anything that is non-functional or does not fit perfectly with the skin, without demonizing chemistry. Its formulas are effective, safe and ultrasensory. To respect the skin, Collistar uses only skin-friendly active ingredients, only functional ingredients, it does not use ingredients of animal origin and the products are silicone-, alcohol-,allergen(fragrance), and mineral-oil free. By testing the products on sensitive skins, Collistar also guarantees that the products have an optimal tolerance. Collistar is also clean for its approach to the entire product: the ingredients are all sustainably sourced, the packaging is recyclable and the packaging is printed using new eco-friendly techniques.

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The treatments A complete, customizable and global anti-age routine is made up of the four products in the range. Magnifica Replumping Redensifying Cream Face and Neck has been made even more effective thanks to carefully calibrated, skin-friendly active ingredients working in synergy to replump the face, reduce wrinkles and improve the quality of the epidermis. The rich texture melts instantly into the skin, ensuring optimum nourishment and comfort. Day after day, deep wrinkles are drastically reduced and the quality of the skin is visibly improved. The rich, melting iconic texture delivers extreme comfort for all skin types, including the most sensitive. Perfect for mature skins, it is also recommended as an intensive treatment at any age ,for instantly plumper skin glowing with health. Magnifica Light Replumping Redensifying Cream Face and Neck has all the powerful effects of Collistar’s ultimate anti-age cream in a new ultra-light and ultra-soft texture that is instantly absorbed. Thanks to its ultra-light texture, the cream in quickly absorbed, making it perfect fornormal and combinations skins as well as sensitive skins. To repair and correct the signs of ageing around the eyes, the Magnifica Redensifying Repairing Eye

Contour is the perfect solution. It visibly improves the firmness of the delicate eye contour and helps prevent wrinkles. With specific active ingredients to help smooth out and relax the surface of the skin and which helps reduce dark circles and signs of tiredness, it leaves skin feeling instantly smoother and more toned; day after day, wrinkles, bags and dark circles are reduced and the eyes look more rested. It is also suitable for sensitive eyes. Magnifica Redensifying Repairing Serum Face and Neck is a multi-intensive age-treatment that redefines the features, replumps the face and redensifies the skin, instantly improving the quality of the epidermis. All of Collistar Research experience is concentrated in an exclusive release technology for the active ingredients: thanks to a special polymer, the vital ingredients in the formula are only activated in contact with the skin, to deliver a controlled, ongoing act ion, ensuring optimum efficacy and complete tolerance. For an unprecedented effect, the highly concentrated formula is completed with a selected active marine ingredient to stimulate cell communication and increase collagen density. The result is instantly healthier, more beautiful skin. The serum has exceptional sensory qualities, thanks to its unique texture: it appears rich but is light on application. The unique texture is ideal when combined with Magnifica Cream and Magnifica Light, for an intense action and more powerful results.

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report

Swiss research agency m1nd-set demonstrates in a special China-focused study on both traffic and shopper insights that, in light of consumer confidence, shopper behavioural changes and the Chinese consumer’s relentless desire to travel, 2021 will mark the beginning of a robust return to growth for the travel retail sector in China. According to m1nd-set’s Business 1ntelligence Service (B1S) traffic and shopper insights data tool, China will see an increase of more than 200% in

international departures in 2021, to reach circa 30 million international departures. Pre-Covid levels are expected to return by 2023, when outbound traffic is forecast to reach 88 million following 108% growth in 2022 and 44% in 2023. The growth forecasts come despite travel restrictions imposed ahead of the Chinese New Year holiday, which saw 28 million Chinese consumers in lockdown following a renewed outbreak of the Covid pandemic in the northern Heilongjiang and Hebei provinces.

Tailwinds and turbulence in China’s pandemic recovery Despite renewed travel restrictions imposed during the lunar new year period, there is every reason to be confident about travel retail 2021 growth prospects in China, according to the latest m1nd-set research on the Chinese market

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REPORT

m1nd-set’s China market research also details the profile of the Chinese traveller, the impact of the pandemic on their daily life, and in particular the impact on their travel behaviour. According to m1ndset, improved testing and containment measures, accompanied by the arrival of the vaccine, the latest outbreak is not expected to generate as significant a blow as when the pandemic first erupted over 12 months ago. Traveller behavioural trends have changed considerably in China since the outbreak of the pandemic, and Chinese travellers are now paying significantly greater attention to health and safety measures, practicing greater hygiene when travelling, m1nd-set reports. The impact of the Covid-19 vaccine and how it will affect the Chinese traveller’s desire to travel and their planned shopping behaviour is also analysed in the research. More than half (53%) of Chinese travellers interviewed said their household income was negatively impacted as a result of the pandemic, moderately lower than the global average of 55%, with a drop of between 5% and 20% compared to pre-Covid levels in China. In terms of international travel uptake, one third of Chinese travellers said they would travel again not immediately, but within the first 6 months after restrictions are lifted. The Covid-19 vaccine will inevitably have a highly positive impact in China as 97% of Chinese travellers are willing to receive the vaccine, the majority of whom said they would prefer to get vaccinated as ear as possible. The Chinese are more likely to consider travelling again if they have received the vaccine

compared to global travellers (39% vs 31%). When they do eventually travel internationally, the research reveals both positive tendencies and challenges. While 80% of travellers who usually visit the Duty Free store would still do so on future international trips, which is higher than the global average at 73%, two-thirds of Chinese travellers said they will spend less time at the airport compared to before. Around 27% will also spend less time inside shops, and more than half will try to isolate themselves from crowds, more so than the average traveller across all world regions. m1nd-set Travel Retail Research Director Clara Susset commented: “Communication is key to post-Covid recovery in China. The industry will need to work collectively to restore traveller confidence and entice them back into the stores. It will be essential to provide easy access to clear information about health and safety measures at the airport and potential delays throughout the airport journey due to modified security measures and procedures.” “Chinese travellers express a clear preference – and a greater tendency than global travellers – for digital technology such as QR Codes, Susset continued, “as a means to learn more about products and brands in the Duty Free shops, search for specific products and check prices before purchasing. The research reveals a number of new such trends and provides recommendations on how to approach this all-important market to ensure the travel retail sector is able to benefit from the Chinese recovery as best possible.”

For more information, please contact m1nd-set: info@m1nd-set.com

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TO BE GOODVIBES Police a new sparkling launch from

The iconic Police skulls are joined by a new sparkling launch: TO BE GOODVIBES. This duo of modern fragrances have a new eye-catching look which is inspired by the latest trends, with bright and bold colours featuring on the catwalks. TO BE GOODVIBES, with its positive energy, is a declaration of optimism for the future, and an explosion of joy that has the scent of freedom. The boxes are shocking pink for her and electric blue for him, are enriched by a cute fluo yellow charm attached to the clip.

A carefree mood and joie de vivre characterize this new duo of modern fragrances

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The bright and lively colours are emphasized by the choice of holographic paper, which gives a rainbow effect to the whole box. The pattern formed by the characteristic gothic “p” in the background gives the box further dynamism. The Eau de Parfum for her is a floriental and fruity fragrance for a positive woman free to express herself. It has an explosive opening with top notes of sweet orange, black pepper, jungle essence™ and an aquatic accord for refreshment. The heart is a delicate blend of peony and heliotrope, enveloped by creamy pear. The base offers irresistible vanilla, enriched with the sensual facets of ambramone™ and patchouli. The Eau de Toilette for him is an oriental and fougère fragrance, fresh and energetic for a man who does not fear being at centre-stage. The lively hesperide top notes are heightened by the crisp and spicy notes of Sichuan pepper, in harmony with light aromatic touches of sage. A heart of white jasmine and magnolia petals is refreshed by unexpected facets of juniper. A base of sparkling ambery woods and fume tobacco complete the composition with a trail that leaves its mark. The two fragrances are available in three sizes of 40ml, 75ml and 125ml.


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VAMP! by Pupa Each woman is unique and authentic, but together, all women have one element that distinguishes them: their femininity. Each woman interprets her femininity through her character, her soul and her style… and each woman has a versatile and multifaceted personality, making her a messenger of independence and self-confidence.

Three eau de parfums created by Pupa to celebrate all women and express their different souls The three Vamp! Fragrances express women’s different souls: irreverent and sexual, rock and audacious, and luminous and romantic. The Vamp! Eau de Parfum woman loves herself, wants to feel free and express herself her own way. The Vamp! Eau de Parfum experience involves al the senses: the fragrance evokes the sensation of being wrapped in fabrics of different colours, materials and textures, which come together in a fluid and light movement. The olfactory notes are characterized by classic and exquisitely feminine floral notes, alongside others that are definitely more innovative and effervescent.

The different fragrances The red Vamp! Is irreverent and sensual, with top notes of Bergamot, Pink Pepper and Mirabelle Plum, a heart of Jasmine, Tuberose , Iris, Rose, Peach Blossom Petals and Patchouli and base notes of Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Amber, Musk and Cocoa Powder to give it a gourmand flavour that is impossible to resist. The bottle is inspired by the shape of Vamp! The iconic mascara by Pupa, but is in red to tell the story of a woman with an irreverent and sensual soul. The black bottle contains an audacious fragrance with a rock soul. The oriental-infused notes of Cinnamon are interwoven with the grace of Rose and the spiciness of Pink Pepper in captivating top notes, which introduce a rich heart of Jasmine, Red Berries, Labdanum and Sandalwood. The base notes of Patchouli, Musk, Amber and Vanilla add their unmistakable signature to this floriental-spicy fragrance. The third fragrance in the Vamp! Trio is luminous and romantic in its powder pink bottle. The fresh notes of Orange Blossom and Tiaré with Jasmine contribute to fresh and delicate top notes which open the way for Rose Absolute, the symbol l of femininity par excellence, made seductive, lively and cheeky by Benzoin and a Poudré accord. The warmth of Sandalwood and Vanilla Pods reveal a “nude skin” image. The pink of the bottle tells the story of a woman who is a dreamer, and as luminous and romantic as her fragrance.

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COMPANY

THE COLLEZIONE ZAFFERANO Specialized in the research and development of highend biotechnological cosmetics, Tindora uses only organically certified natural ingredients that can restore hydration, suppleness, compactness and radiance to the skin. To look younger means feeling younger and this is the mission of Tindora cosmetics: to give a golden sheen to the skin so that it is the finest and most precious jewel to wear.

The most expensive spice in the world to help keep skin young and beautiful The saffron used in the Tindora products comes from the Plateau of Navelli, in the Abruzzo region of Italy, which is one of the best regions in the world for the quality of life (according to the US edition of the Huffington Post). Thanks to its different geographical features (mountains, gently rolling hills and a coastline), there are many microclimates which is the reason for the wealth and biodiversity of the land. The saffron (“zafferano dell’Aquila”, a PDO product) is grown on a non-intensive basis, which respects nature, keeping alive the local culture and the age-old traditions of Abruzzo. The “Collezione Zafferano” by Tindora is a line of products based on

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innovative ingredients, production and extraction technologies, delivery systems and application. Tindora cosmetics are certified organic by AIAB, thus ensuring that the products have a low environmental impact and that consumers’ health is protected as well as satisfying their expectations. In addition to saffron, Tindora uses a pre-Probiotics Complex which fights the degenerative factors, keeping the cellular matrix intact; acts on several levels in a structured and complete way; optimizes the active ingredients without altering them; avoids dangerous substances for man such as allergens, parabens, silicones, mineral oils and colourings and, lastly, ensures purity, safety, constancy and the qualitative and quantitative efficiency of the product. Saffron (from the Crocus sativus) is very rich in carotenoids, which are unrivalled antioxidants. Their well- known action against the formation of free radicals, the molecules responsible in nature for damaging cells, represents an aid in the cosmetic treatment of the signs of time. Thanks to the association of fundamental organic ingredients with the revitalizing and antioxidant properties of the pistils of this precious flower, helps keep the structural characteristics and the physiological functionality of young skin, contributing to restoring its natural hydration, suppleness, compactness and radiance.


COMPANY

The products The line comprises a Milk Cleanser, with a delicate and fresh texture, making cleansing a truly sensory experience. Respecting the nature of each skin type, it contains hyaluronic acid and saffron in synergy with organic plant-based active ingredients, specifically selected for their compatibility with the skin. After cleansing, the Rebalancing Lotion is fundamental, to soothe the skin and help it keep its physiological balance with the right degree of moisturization for the skin. It gives a pleasant sensation of energy and freshness. In the Enzymatic Peeling, bromeline with mandelic acid stimulates the natural cellular exchange, helping the renewal and oxygenation of the skin. Thanks to the innovative formula, the skin looks radiant, is soft to the touch and youthful thanks to the antioxidant action of saffron. The Lift Effect Serum has a lightweight texture that melts into the skin. The complex of active ingredients with a lifting effect with saffron, helping a tensor effect so that the skin looks relaxed and replumped. Daily use gives the facial contours a more youthful appearance. To fight the pollution in the air, the Anti-Pollution Day Cream brings a sensation of wellness and freshness and is easily absorbed by the skin. The moisturizing, nourishing and antioxidant action of ingredients such as saffron, hyaluronic acid, Pre-Probiotic Complex and Coenzyme Q10 helps in the cosmetic treatment caused by dehydration and the passing of time. The presence of an anti-pollution active ingredient preserves the skin from the action of external factors making it look more even and compact day after day. For night treatment, the Nourishing Night Cream benefits from the moisturizing, nourishing and

T I N DOR A A TRIBUTE TO THE LAND OF ABRUZZO

antioxidant action of saffron with hyaluronic acid, Pre-Probiotics, extract of Jania Rubens which help in the cosmetic treatment of lines of expression and the skin will appear regenerated, compact and radiant. Illuminating Eye Cream has a lightweight texture and is enriched with revitalizing ingredients and saffron, which nourish and moisturize the eye contour area, making it look relaxed, radiant and rested. Tindora has not forgotten men, either, with the Men’s Energizing Emulsion, the ideal treatment to energize skin and leave it relaxed, toned and rejuvenated. The packaging selected for Tindora is the “airless” system, designed to preserve the products from polluting agents and oxidation, in elegant white, decorated by a single pistil of the precious saffron with gold details.

To understand how Tindora comes into being, we have to make an ideal journey to the beautiful land of Abruzzo, where the generous nature also speaks of the character of its people, who are proud and with a fighting spirit. Fiorella Bafile comes from here and decided to start a business initiative using a precious local ingredient: saffron from Navelli. This decision is part of a project to hand down to the new generation the skill of producing saffron, including investments and economic help from the company itself, and to perpetuate the tradition of this cultivation. With the cosmetic line of Tindora – and its name is full of music and sounds like magic – the company is engaged in concretely supporting the cooperative that grows the precious spice which, thanks to the characteristics of the soil, grows full of active substances that allow stating that the saffron from Navelli is one of the most appreciated in the world.

Below, a souvenir photo during a visit to Tindora by Matteo Locatelli and Simona Antonini of Cosmetica Italia, with Fiorella Bafile, her husband and two children

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EVENTS

BEAUTYISTANBUL online Regional meetings featured 600 buyers from 47 countries

In awake of the pandemic, BEAUTYISTANBUL exhibition continues to provide value added services and organize online meetings where international suppliers and regional buyers can meet online and conduct business effectively in a quick way. Buyers in attendance are selected among important importers, distributors, wholesalers, sourcing firms, retailers, cosmetics chain stores, pharmacy chains and supermarkets of the relevant region and invited to explore sourcing opportunities provided by BEAUTYISTANBUL exhibitors. 1. On September 30th, 2020,1st Online Meeting featured 90 buyers from 6 Central Asian countries. 2. On November 11th, 2020, 2nd Online Meeting featured 256 buyers from 13 East African countries. 3. On December 2nd and 3rd 2020, the 3rd and 4th Online Meetings featured 252 buyers from 7 Central American countries and from 21 countries in the Caribbean region. 4. On February 10th and 11th, SubSaharan Africa Online Meeting will host over 200 buyers from 18 countries. 5. In March, West Africa Online Meeting will feature over 200 buyers from 17 countries.

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BEAUTYISTANBUL’s experienced team of 25 people fluent in 10 languages showed the difference from other B2B organizers once more by bringing together some of the biggest companies in relevant regions to attend the online meetings. Despite the global pandemic postponing exhibitions and limiting face to face interaction, BEAUTYISTANBUL aims to provide additional value-added services to businesses worldwide. With already over 12,500 registered buyers from

175 countries and over 5,000 products uploaded since January 1st, 2019, BEAUTYISTANBUL’s O2O Online Platform is a clear leader in the hybrid exhibition sector. In addition to the O2O Online Platform, value-added services such as personalized Target Client Program and Online Regional Buyer Meetings will be available all year long. Once 14-1516 October 2021 comes, the physical exhibition with the coveted VIP Hosted Buyer Program will once again be the center of global B2B discussions. Make sure to follow the future editions of the series of worldwide regional meetings and all other activities held by the BEAUTYISTANBUL exhibition. Next Online Regional Buyer Meetings will host buyers and distributors from Sub-Saharan Africa and West Africa respectively in February and March. If you too want to achieve year-long success, become an exhibitor at BEAUTYISTANBUL now and benefit from all value-added services for free.

For more information, please contact: info@beauty-istanbul.com BEAUTYISTANBUL: October 14 – 15 – 16, 2021 in Istanbul, one of the world’s most attractive cities!


2nd International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair Home Care, Private Label, Packaging and Ingredients

ICC - Istanbul Congress Center - Taksim, Istanbul - Turkey

6 in in 11 EVENT EVENT 6 TARGET CLIENT PROGRAM • Personalized client leads for exhibitors • Connecting target markets and target audience directly

ONLINE REGIONAL BUYER MEETINGS

24/7, 365 DAYS ACTIVE: O2O ONLINE PLATFORM

Periodical exclusive buyer meetings

Reach 12.378 buyers from 175 countries in a click

HOSTED BUYER PROGRAM

VIRTUAL FAIR • Supported by the infrastructure of O2O Online Platform

• Delicately selected high-quality buyers from all over the world

• Strong user base and 2 years of expertise in digital events

PHYSICAL TRADE FAIR

• 756 Exclusive Hosted Buyers from 120 countries

2nd BEAUTYISTANBUL Exhibition October, 14-15-16, 2021

www.beauty-istanbul.com Organizer

Tel: +90 212 2229060

|

+90 533 4843030 |

info@beauty-istanbul.com

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION


Company

FRAGRANS IN FABULA

A NEW NAME FOR THE RETAIL WORLD OF CALE’

Calé, a name synonymous with artistic perfumery, has decided to inaugurate 2021 with an important change in the world of retail. Its store in central Milan, in Corso Magenta 22, is changing its name from Pérfume by Calé to Fragrans in fabula. This change is part of an extensive corporate rebranding operation , which has also included the creation of a new e-commerce website and the renewal of the social channels of the boutique.

Along with the change of name of the boutique, Fragrans in fabula is also an e-commerce website, where it is possible to find information on the wide range of products on sale in the boutique and buy them directly online.

has become even more fundamental after what has happened this year.” The transformation aims to make the mission which has always been implied in the retail action of Calé: to offer the client not a simple fragrance, but a real olfactory message capable of telling a story, to the person willing to listen, the fairytale-like emotions that only a fragrance can evoke. Fragrans in fabula has been created for precisely this reason. In two words, the name tells us all the beauty that a fragrance – fragrans – has to have to be able to teletransport the wearer to a fairytale elsewhere – fabula – through the power of smell. Whether it is a fragrance for personal use or for the home or a product for shaving or for personal care. With 65 years of experience in the sector, Fragrans in fabula offers clients the best anthology of Italian and international artistic perfumery brands as well as some exclusive services in the boutique in Corso Magenta 22, in the heart of old Milan. The services offered include the NOSE olfactory test that Fragrans in fabula offers exclusively for Italy to outline an individual’s olfactory

Silvio Levi, the CEO of Calé, has chosen the new name for a specific reason, as he says: “2020 was a great challenge for us, but one which has spurred us on to do more and to do it better to achieve our projects. These included renewing the image of Calé and its retail which starts from Fragrans in fabula and in particular from its new website, with the objective of boosting our e-commerce, aware of how this way of communication with the user of beauty products

profile and find the ideal fragrance; the presentation of fragrances according to the classification created by Michael Edwards, useful for knowing which fragrances in the store belong to the same olfactory family as your own perfume, through the app, Match My Favourite; the bookstore of perfume to find out more about the world of fragrances and satisfy your curiosity about the essences of the individual notes that make up your favourite fragrance.

An extensive corporate rebranding operation for the Milanese home of artistic perfumery

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LAUNCH

BRUNO ACAMPORA

THE OLFACTORY JOURNEY CONTINUES

Bruno Acampora Profumi has been synonymous with Italian hand crafted high quality perfumery for over forty years, when it was founded by the Italian gentleman and traveller Bruno Acampora. Its history has direct links with Italian prêt-à-porter high fashion and Pop art.

Red, which Miguel Matos then formulated. It is an essence which majestically combines the citrus notes of a fresh scent from the Mediterranean with the darker and intense shades of lands furrowed by rampant horses, creating a powerful harmony where the human and the divine meet. The notes of Orange, Lemon, Cinnamon and Cloves, Jasmine, Carnation and Lily, Peru Balsam, Vanilla, Oakmoss and Civet come together, leaving nothing to chance, where carnality, sensuality and love merge into a unique olfactory experience.

The new fragrance is inspired by the eternity of Pompeii tor Bruno Acampora labora

y: Sonia Acampora, Mig

uel Matos and Brunello

Acampora

Run today by Sonia and Brunello Acampora, with a group of loyal, devoted and knowledgeable employees, the company carries on the mission of creating fragrances conceived in-house and 100% made in Italy. Without fitting into either the “Niche” or the “Commercial” categories, Bruno Acampora Profumi is simply a genuine Italian story of unique fragrances. The latest addition to this distinctive brand is Pompeii Red. Sonia Acampora, visiting the excavations at Pompeii with the ‘nose’ Miguel Matos, had the idea, based on the memories and sensations sparked off on that occasion, to create the perfume Pompeii

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LAUNCH

THE CURTAIN RISES AGAIN ON PRIMA BY

CARTHUSIA The Capri perfume brand pays tribute to the world of the theatre

A premiere at the theatre creates a unique atmosphere of expectation, excitement, passion and euphoria with an imperceptible charm. Due to the current situation with all theatres closed, this very special moment is something that many people miss. It is an occasion for the return of Prima, originally launched in 2012. Carthusia pays tribute to the world of the theatre, inspired by a great Neapolitan institution, the San Carlo Theatre in Naples, an international synonym of excellence, with this unique and inimitable composition of woody notes that has all the energy of a great opera.

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Prima is an exclusive, personal and distinctive fragrance. Its lively bouquet of Bergamot, Mint, Rose, together with oil of oud, evokes shiny worn wood and fine fabrics; theatre-lovers will be able to discover a new sense with which to experience their emotions, just as though they were seated in the audience. The opening, with top notes of Mint, Bergamot and Mandarin, is fresh, while the base notes release an oriental and amber-infused melody. In a crescendo the solo of Cedar and precious woods arrives from the heart notes, which diffuses the scent of those noble velvets and old wood, amongst which, for centuries, genius, art and beauty, the essence of the San Carlo, have lived for centuries. The packaging of the fragrance, made by hand with all the care of great craftsmanship, like the fragrance itself, has the perfume of history with red velvet on gold-coloured hot printing. The result is artistic alchemy and a contemporary vision, a hymn to uniqueness. The fragrance has an exceptional testimonial, the famous soprano Carmen Giannattasio. She has known the world of Carthusia since she sang in “La Traviata” at the San Carlo Theatre in 2012, on the original launch of the fragrance. Since then she has become a sort of ambassador of the brand. She is currently in Sydney, Australia, performing in “Tosca”.


FLASH/NEWS

ESXENCE PERFUMERY EVENT

THE ART

The twelfth edition announced to be rescheduled in 2022 MiCo, Milano Convention Centre | CityLife District

Considering the persisting health emergency due to Covid-19, the Organization of Esxence – The Art Perfumery Event communicates with regret the cancellation of the June dates. The twelfth edition will be rescheduled in the first quarter of 2022, at MiCo, Milano Convention Centre. The postponement of the exhibition will give exhibitors and visitors the possibility to take part in a high-level event, with the aim of guaranteeing safety standards and the participation of our usual public coming from all over the world. “We are working on this edition to make it even safer and as special and innovative as possible; in this regard we decided to reposition the event in 2022 in order to encourage the presence of the public from major foreign countries, in order to preserve the international profile of the event and launch a new phase of Esxence, full of content and insights” - says Maurizio Cavezzali, CEO of Equipe Exibit. In conjunction with the event, in the spaces of MiCo, Milan Convention Centre, will be held the second edition of Experience Lab - promoted by the company Experience Me - the appointment dedicated to niche beauty and excellence. Updates will be published in real time on the Esxence website and on the relevant social media channels. www.esxence.com

Packaging Première The fourth edition of Packaging Première will take place from May 24th to May 26th 2022

Following the persistent health emergency due to Covid-19, Easyfairs Italia announces the repositioning of Packaging Première to year 2022. The decision was taken in order to ensure a successful and safe edition for visitors, exhibitors and the packaging community. “The unexpected current situation encouraged us to consider alternative dates to those originally planned. The fourth edition, so long awaited, represents the tangible sign of the business restart and we want to make sure that it take place in a safe environment. In these months, in which digital activities have a prominent role, we are committed to creating initiatives that could directly involve our audience. In addition to the Trends Talks webinar series, highlighting the key themes of the moment, we have recently launched Pack Match, a personalized, professional and accurate consultancy service supporting the research activity of specific and customized packaging solutions. We want Packaging Première to live 365 days a year”, says Pier Paolo Ponchia, Founder and Director of Packaging Première. Stay tuned with the latest news and updates on Packaging Première website and on its official social media channels. www.packagingpremiere.it

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SUNPLOSION aloha STATE OF MIND

explosion of vitality and energy which captures the sun of Hawaii. The Pacific US State is a magical archipelago, with tropical forests, lush waterfalls and paradisiacal beaches. Surfers, with their tanned skins and sensation of freedom, enjoy the majestic waves that crash on to the beaches of Oahu. These are the sensations evoked by Sunplosion – Aloha State of Mind, a taste of Hawaii celebrated by its symbolic fruit, which releases a unique fragrance, the delicious Excel Mango of Makaha. The opening of fresh line lights up the vibrant and ripe flesh of mango, enriched by nuances of guava and the transparent scents of coconut water.

Simone Andreoli takes us off to Hawaii with this new gem of a fragrance Simone Andreoli is one of the Italian excellences in artistic perfumery. He made his debut in 2014, at only 24, as the youngest Nose in Italy. Today Simone Andreoli is a brand that represents an Italian excellence in the world of artistic perfumery. All the fragrances are travel diaries and olfactory jewels to wear: each essence evokes memories and sensations that transport the mind towards different places, marking out infinite destinations. This is the great value of the brand which is today recognized and appreciated in this exclusive market niche of artistic perfumery. Original and sophisticated olfactory structures celebrate the quality of the ingredients and trigger off potent emotions, rich in images and contents. Excellence without compromise is the linchpin of the brand where creativity and beauty are the expression of the Italian heritage. The latest fragrance seamlessly continues along this path. “Sunplosion – Aloha State of Mind” is an

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In the words of Simone Andreoli, “Aloha is a hymn to the sun, the explosion of life and of the most intense freedom.” The other olfactory notes are Lime, Hibiscus and White Sandalwood. Sunplosion – Aloha State of Mind is an Eau de Parfum Intense and comes in a 100 ml size.


LAUNCH

TEAOLOGY

CELEBRATES SPRING WITH HAPPY BODY

Happy Body by the Italian brand of Tea Infusion Skincare is a multifunctional slimming balm with an infusion of organic black tea and AHAs for an anticellulite, firming and lifting effect. The AHAs (Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids) instantly smooth skin, hyaluronic acid moisturizes and tones and drosera leaves have a slimming and anticellulite action.

Thanks to the infusion of organic Guranse black tea, from Dhankuta in Nepal in the patented Tea Infusion Skincare technology, the antioxidant polyphenols, caffeine and amino acids in the tea are made available. The soft-gel texture makes it suitable for daily use, as a Balm to keep skin toned and smooth, as a Mask, left to act for a few minutes, to intensify the reducing action on the adipose cells. This multifunction balm has been developed to simplify the beauty routine and helpwomen have a healthy skin and a happy body.

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VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has become one of the most sought after management and distribution agencies specialising in global beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business sectors and extensive distribution channels it works with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans both well-established names and newly-emerging brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach. Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach, elevate their brand presence, improve their business performance and achieve commercial success globally. A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. This capability in combination with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director. From her CEW mentoring, organisation of the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, Valérie is a passionate and dynamic advocate of the global beauty industry. Valérie splits her time between her London HQ and her central Paris office as well as managing a satellite network in China.

The year of happy beauty Happiness was low on the radar in 2020 but as we slowly start to emerge into a post-pandemic world consumers will be looking for solutions to boost them both physically, and mentally. According to Pinterest Predicts Report 2021* this year is predicted to be the year of ‘Emo Beauty’. Linking our emotional wellbeing with our skin, hair and body health, emotional beauty bridges the mind-beauty gap to simultaneously address how we look, and how we feel.

Our emotions and our physical appearance go hand in hand; on a very minor scale “when someone is stressed it comes out straight onto the skin and causes all skin conditions to get worse and the skin to dry out, become spotty or generally look dull” says Margo Marrone, Founder of The Organic Pharmacy. Put simply, when our mind is unhappy we don’t look our best.


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The 2020 Covid-19 pandemic has created mass disruption for consumers’ emotional wellbeing. This has not only manifested itself in our physical appearance but it has signalled a shift in both beauty perceptions and beauty routines. For the beauty industry this means developing strategies, and products, that support physical and mental wellbeing, and providing beauty routines that not only make consumers look good, but make them feel good too. Living through a pandemic has understandably altered consumers’ emotional wellbeing, with 3 in 10 people reporting they are more aware of their mental health needs, revealed recent Mintel research. But it isn’t just our minds that have taken the hit, our physical appearance is suffering too. “The emotional impact of the pandemic, extended periods of working from home and the burden of an uncertain future has resulted in anxiety, declining skin health and premature ageing. This has been referred to as ‘Covid face’– and refers to the visible appearance of stress on the skin.” says Abi Buller, foresight writer at strategic foresight consultancy, The Future Laboratory. “Since Covid-19 and lockdown periods, people have been focusing more on overall skin health – especially as a result of zoom fatigue and an increased awareness of their appearance. Incorporating brightening, moisturising and blue light-blocking products into routines is something that is continually on the rise as people look to revive and rejuvenate their skin”, notes Buller.

Enter, ‘mindful beauty’. The Oxford Dictionary defines mindfulness as ‘a mental state achieved by focusing one’s awareness on the present moment, while calmly acknowledging and accepting one’s feelings, thoughts, and bodily sensations, used as a therapeutic technique’ and indeed it’s a practice which could prove particularly beneficial given the current chaotic state of the world; a study published in November 2016 in the British Journal of Dermatology found that people who practice more mindfulness experience less distress and a better quality of life than those who do not. Crucially though, incorporating mindfulness into our daily routines has been shown to affect skin positively with as study in the Journal of Behavioural Medicine, June 2018, showing that the practice can help improve wound healing within the first few days, while the National Psoriasis Foundation discovered that mindfulness has been shown to improve symptoms in psoriasis.

While ‘Covid face’ is of course a new phenomenon the idea that our skin can reveal how we are feeling on the inside belongs to an emerging field of thought known as psychodermatology. The skin and brain are grown from the same embryonic layer in the womb and linked by a gut-brain-skin axis, psychodermatology “acknowledges this connection, treating skin diseases using a holistic approach, aware of the impact a skin disease can have on someone’s psyche, and vice versa”, says neuroscientist and Aromatherapy Associates Spokesperson, Dr Tara Swart. When we are stressed our “wound healing slows, oil glands go into overdrive, and inflammation takes off” explains dermatologist, psychiatrist and author of The Mind-Beauty Connection Amy Wechsler. Essentially, if brands can tap into consumers emotionally they can trigger a response aesthetically. *Pinterest Internal Search Data, Global, comparing searches from Oct 2018 - Sep 2019 vs searches from Oct 2019 – Sep 2020

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The demand for mindful beauty is high with 69% of people** planning to dedicate more time to selfcare in 2021 than they did in 2021. Brands are already beginning to capitalise on this cultural need for moodboosting beauty; between March-July 2020 Skin & Tonic sold 35,000 pots of their ‘Calm Balm’ thanks to its promise of melting away makeup and stress. While CBD supplement brand, Mindful Extracts offers mindful practices which are designed to balance the body and calm the mind. By combining traditional products and services with practices such as mindfulness, meditation and deep breathing, beauty products and routines can offer everyday skincare and wellbeing solutions that simultaneously calm the mind and the skin. Consumers are thinking so much more about their physical and emotional wellbeing since the pandemic and self-care has become a vital ingredient to maintain our physical and mental health. In a recent study 67%** of people agreed that self-care routines they developed during the pandemic have become a permanent part of their life. “Elevating our mental and physical wellbeing by carving out time for our self-care keeps our inner resources strong and happiness levels high” says Aromatherapy Associates Education and Wellbeing Director, Christina Salcedas. The physical act of hair brushing, body brushing or moisturising is linked to repetitive motions which promote a state of calm but not only does self-care provide a moment of mindfulness it also creates a sense of control over our routine - something which many of us have been forced to concede thanks to Covid-19.

In fact, it has been found that people with more consistent routines are likely to be happier and suffer less from mood problems and loneliness***. Plus, a consistent beauty routine gives us something to look forward to; regularly treating yourself to proper love and attention can trigger a rush of chemicals to the brain which will boost your mood. So while we may not feel like we can be the masters of our destiny at the moment, with a little help from our beauty routines we can certainly be the masters of our emotional wellbeing. It’s not just skincare brands that can leverage the link between emotional wellbeing and beauty.

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** Study carried out strategic foresight consultancy, The Future Laboratory 2020 *** The Lancet Psychiatry, June 2018


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Scents that are proven to reduce stress and improve mood can, and should, be incorporated into skin, hair and body products in order to play within the ‘happy beauty’ space. “Linked to the area of the brain governing instinct, memory and emotion, our sense of smell is the most evocative and primitive of our senses. Through these scent pathways, essential oils can have a dynamic effect on our emotional state. They help transform our moods, moving us away from one state of mind another”, notes Salcedas. Indeed Aromatherapy Associates have developed a range of products which utilise all of your senses to elicit an emotional change through the power of essential oils while Disciple’s adaptogen-rich oils are formulated to help the mind and body deal with internal stress. Fragrance houses are also turning to ingredients to calm the mind. Perfumer Maurice Roucel has created ‘Matcha Meditation’ for Maison Margiela which “reduces stress levels and promotes serenity. It allows you to focus.”. A focus improving spritz is something we could all do with whilst working from home for the 400th day.

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As we look towards the future beauty brands will need to ‘behave like health and wellness brands’ says WGSN’s Director of Beauty, Jenni Middleton, they will need to not only provide aesthetic benefits but improve a consumer’s mental state too. This can be achieved by combining traditional R&D with a more therapeutic philosophy, look to brands that practice internal and external wellness such as The Organic Pharmacy and Oio Lab who select clinically-proven active ingredients to make you glow from the inside out. Indeed it is this holistic, inside out, approach which ultimately results in both a happy mind and happy skin. Because it’s true what Roald Dahl said ‘if you have good thoughts they will shine out of your face like sunbeams and you will always look lovely’.

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk


REPORT

GLOBAL LUXURY MARKET IN 2020 Beauty products account for 22% of €217B global personal luxury goods market The global luxury market 2020 In billion EUR, by category Source: Bain & Company

€ 1,000B € 900B € 800B € 700B € 600B

€503B

€ 500B € 400B € 300B

€217B

€ 200B

€38B

€45B

€68B

€85B

Fi ne

ar t fu rn G itu ou re rm & et … fo od & fin Fi e ne d… w in es & sp Lu iri xu ts ry ho Pe sp rs ita on lit al y lu xu ry go od s Lu xu ry ca rs To ta l2 02 0

je ts

€23B

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cr ui se s y Pr iv at e

Lu xu r

30

€22B

€1B

0

H ig h-

€ 100B

&

Luxury market category in billion EUR

€ 1,100B

Faced with a global health crisis and economic meltdown, the personal luxury products market has faced some significant shifts. The ability to adapt to the challenging environment has seen segments like beauty account for a significant share. Data presented by Fraîcheur Paris indicates that beauty products accounted for 22% of the 2020 global personal luxury goods market. The products ranked second highest after accessories that accounted for 36%. Hard luxury had a share of 21% tying with apparel. The research also explored the 2020 global luxury market, which totaled to about €1 trillion. Luxury cars accounted for half of the entire market share at €503 billion to occupy the top spot, followed by personal luxury goods at €217 billion.


REPORT

Global personal luxury goods market share 2020 In billion EUR, worldwide

40% Value share (%)

Luxury cruises had the least share at €1 billion. Furthermore, the research also overviewed the global personal luxury goods market size between 2010 and 2020. Last year the market size was €217 billion, a drop of 22.77% from 2019’s figure of €281 billion. 2010 recorded the least share during the period under review at €167 billion.

Personal luxury goods market contracts amid pandemic

30%

21%

21%

22%

Apparel

Hard Luxury

Beauty

20% 10% 0

Accessories

Global personal luxury goods market size In billion EUR, from 2010 to 2020

€281B

€280B €260B

Value share (%)

The market share of personal luxury goods in 2020 was heavily impacted by the coronavirus pandemic like many other sectors. The market size even recorded the biggest drop in a decade as changes to the consumer mindset forced many to spend more time at home while minimizing non-essential items. There was also reduced air travel, a greater focus on family and self-care. The wide-scale lockdowns contributed to the contraction of the market size as the situation impacted consumer confidence. Some consumers saw no sense in spending more on luxury goods since there was little opportunity to use the products owing to restricted global traveling. Beauty products were able to account for a significant share of the luxury products thanks to a change in consumer behavior. Many brands adapted by scaling up online sales to offset the decline from in-store sales. Notably, the e-commerce sector skyrocketed during the pandemic, with many retailers taking advantage.

36%

€245B €244B

€240B €220B

€207B €212B

€254B

€262B -22.77% YOY €217B

€219B

€200B

€186B

€180B €160B

€167B 2010

2011

2012

2013

2014

In general, beauty habits change when the consumer is at home. With the working culture spreading, for example, women find it not necessary to put on makeup. Before the 2020 drop, the personal luxury market was rising

Road to recovery for personal luxury products In the path to recovery, the global luxury market is influenced by a combination of factors like economic trends, consumer confidence, tourism flows, and the ability to lead brands to anticipate and meet consumer needs. Furthermore, the recovery is already being seen in regions like China. Despite emerging as the epicenter of the health crisis, China has witnessed a revival of the luxury market after lifting measures to contain the pandemic. Among the leading luxury goods markets, China had earlier resorted to months of store closures, social distancing, and disrupted personal and professional habits. Consumers will likely be willing to make purchases not made during the lockdown.

2015

2016

2017

2018

2019

2020

mainly due to improving consumer living standards supported by their increasing disposable income levels. Furthermore, the high prevalence of western fashion trends catalyzed luxury product demand. The growing tourism sector was also driving the market growth. However, the sudden outbreak of COVID-19 across the globe in early 2020 reversed most sector gains. Despite recording impressive gains before the pandemic, beauty products and other luxury goods have also been facing a rough patch. Recently, trade wars, increased global economic uncertainty, and shifts in consumer behavior and values have contributed to major shifts across the luxury goods landscape. The full story with statistics is available here: https://faceiceglobes.com/blogs/news/ beauty-products-account-for-22-of-217bglobal-personal-luxury-goods-market-in-2020


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The subscription box economy:

VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has become one of the most sought after management and distribution agencies specialising in global beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business sectors and extensive distribution channels it works with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans both well-established names and newly-emerging brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach. Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach, elevate their brand presence, improve their business performance and achieve commercial success globally. A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. This capability in combination with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director. From her CEW mentoring, organisation of the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, Valérie is a passionate and dynamic advocate of the global beauty industry. Valérie splits her time between her London HQ and her central Paris office as well as managing a satellite network in China.

Can beauty’s biggest comeback story retain its success post-pandemic?

Dubbed the most talked about trend of 2020 by Reddit UK, subscription boxes truly went boom in the year that most of the world went bust. Beauty box big hitters Birchbox saw a 150% increase in sales compared to 2019, E-commerce platform allsubscriptionboxes.co.uk reported it had received 173% more visitors in 2020 compared to the previous year and the Royal Mail reported that 15% of UK adults had ordered a subscription box since lockdown to ‘cheer themselves up through regular purchases’. The catalyst to these astronomical sales figures for a category that was, until recently, on the brink of collapse was, of course, a global lockdown. But as retail begins to open up and the need for letter box gifts wanes will subscription services be able to maintain momentum or will they be boxed up and left in the pandemic past?

Birchbox


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Subscription boxes first hit the market more than 10 years ago and in that relatively short space of time the category has enjoyed both major successors and suffered extreme losses. In 2017, Royal Mail predicted that the subscription service category would hit £1bn in the UK by 2022, a 77% increase from 2017 but fast forward just two years and the category was on the down-turn. Pre- pandemic subscription services were suffering as a result of peak saturation within the beauty market, Birchbox cut 25% of its global staff, and FabFitFun around 18%. Sensitivity to market trends is the making or breaking of this unique category and the arrival of a global pandemic proved it to be the former as the subscription box formula of convenience, value for money plus the novelty of new products proved a hit with consumers’ new found dedication to self-care, and caring for others. Why though, is the subscription box so much more appealing to consumers when they are stuck at home? Alex Valbona, President of EU, Birchbox thinks the answer lies in a trend that Birchbox predicted back in 2012, that of cocooning. “Recent circumstances have forced us to find refuge in the home and seek an environment in which we feel truly comfortable, a bolthole from an outside world we find increasingly hectic, aggressive and unpredictable. We’ve spent years preparing ourselves, and the coronavirus pandemic has simply accentuated a trend we already saw coming in 2012: that of cocooning, the growing tendency to leave the home less and less, enjoying more and more experiences within its four walls.”. Aside from the human desire to create a safe and comforting space there are other factors which have exacerbated the subscription box acceleration. Firstly, there’s the convenience of delivery and the fact that the easy replenishment options offered by many subscription services means that consumers don’t have to forgo their favourite products. Additionally, “the boom in online shopping and the difficulties in trying out cosmetics in situ, due to safety and hygiene measures, meant that e-commerce can only go from strength to strength, both as a first option for discovering makeup, face, body and hair

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care products and - as with our subscription model for trying them out in the safety of one’s own home, for later purchase” says Valbona. For many, the pandemic has encouraged them to make first time purchases of products they wouldn’t usually buy, Zalando, Europe’s largest fashion and lifestyle e-commerce marketplace, reported a boom in pampering and self-care beauty categories, including candles, aromatherapy, and detox products; sales of skin, nail, and hair-care products were up 300 percent, year on year*. As well as providing an opportunity for self-care, consumers also subscribed so that they could have something to look forward to that would break up the monotony of isolating. Royal Mail reported that 15% of UK adults had ordered a subscription box since lockdown to ‘cheer themselves up through regular purchases’. And, an increase in sending gifts was also a major contributor to subscription box sign ups, “people want to find original gifts that feel personalised for the individual. Lockdown has accelerated this trend with peaks such as Easter and Father’s Day seeing volumes almost double last year. They are easy to find online where people are browsing and looking for gift ideas” said DPD Chief Executive, Dwain McDonald. However, despite *ahem* unprecedented sales spikes over the past year, subscription services still have major barriers to overcome to both retain customers and to move the needle among nonparticipants. While there are more subscribers than last year consumer adoption remains relatively low, with only just over a third of consumers currently participating in at least one service noted a recent Mintel survey. Key stumbling blocks for subscription services to overcome include addressing negative perceptions about the value proposition and ‘contract’ terms with an out clause revealed the survey. The novelty factor of receiving new products is also something that can wear thin relatively quickly, “I think that the biggest ongoing challenge is the necessity to delight customers continuously every month with a new concept,” says Michael Maarek, founder of allsubscriptionboxes.co.uk, who says successful subscription-box brands tend to create a (virtual) community for subscribers and “build a brand proposition that goes beyond the contents of each box”.

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Causebox

Although there are clear challenges for brands to contend with if they want to tick a consumers subscription service boxes there is still plenty of opportunity to become a key player within this unique sector. “Changes in people’s lifestyles as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic and the lockdowns have affected usage habits and led to major shifts in the types of beauty and personal care products consumers are buying. One of the big opportunities is for brands to focus on in- home beauty treatments and DIY kits that allow people to improve their skin and appearance within the comfort of their homes, whilst also catering to growing demand for self-care. There is scope to drive purchasing in the worst-hit categories such as fragrances through extensions with other categories such as personal care and household which have been less impacted by the pandemic” says Tamara Sender Ceron, Senior Consumer Analyst. Brands looking to opt in to the subscription model should be boosted by the fact that this offering is an easy way to provide regular product replenishment, convenience and sustainability. A subscription service enables brands to align themselves with key consumer values including sustainability, inclusivity and economic viability. Causebox is a lifestyle and wellness box that sustainably sources all its products locally or from artisans, putting a focus on transparency.

Meanwhile, the fragrance subscription service Scentbird gives consumers the opportunity to experience luxury fragrances before making an expensive commitment, thus appealing to both the value-driven and sustainably minded consumer, as it reduces the risk of a perfume going to waste. Annie Johnston, Beauty Analyst at trend forecasters WGSN recommends that “brands looking to launch into this growing category should design curated selection around sustainability, modern wellness and inclusivity.”. The nature of a replenishment model is at odds with the growing call from consumers for brands to limit waste. With this in mind brands must adopt innovative sustainable strategies to ensure their success; Beautiac for example is a makeup brush brand which has partnered with Terracycle to recycle old brush heads into ScentBird park benches. Collaborations and co-curations with other brands, influencers and industry experts is another way that brands can explore subscriptions services and get their products into the hands of a wider demographic. Allure regularly works with influencers to co-curate editions of its box, including Huda Kattan and Zoe Kravitz. These drove a 400% higher conversion than other months, said VP of marketing for Condé Nast Beauty. Consider partnerships beyond the beauty realm to entice a new audience or team up with a charity to enable your brand to join the political and social activism conversation. While the pandemic has created huge opportunities for the growth of subscription services brands will need to carefully consider how appealing subscriptions will continue to be as consumers emerge from the cocoons of their homes with a renewed sense of economic caution. Success can still very much be a possibility though, if brands are prepared to think outside the box.

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk


LAUNCH

La Compagnie de Provence A Modern Twist on Provence’s Ancient Tradition of Soap Making

With a fresh and fragranced amenity line, La Compagnie de Provence has launched its third exclusive line in partnership with Groupe GM, international player in the hotel amenity industry. Through this collaboration, Groupe GM can now offer hotel guests worldwide a new range of luxury amenities. Beginning in 1990, with two friends from Marseille driven by a passion for design, La Compagnie de Provence was the first brand to revive and reinterpret the traditional cube of Marseille soap. Ever since, the renowned French cosmetics brand has been crafting natural skincare enriched with high-quality, locally sourced botanical oils, while sharing its passion for the iconic Marseille soap and the natural riches of its region. Designed in the heart of Provence, the La Compagnie de Provence hotel line is perfumed with the “Extra Pur” collection’s best-seller: Olivewood. Deliciously scented with sensual woody notes, La Compagnie de Provence brings a fragrant touch to the emblematic scent of Provence, with no less than 96% ingredients of natural origin.

The range is offered in 40 ml tubes of shower gel, shampoo, conditioner and body milk, as well as scented soaps available in 30 g and 50 g. In line with Groupe GM’s Care About Earth program and sustainability goals, the product tubes are made of 90% plant-based material with a recycled plastic cap. The new range also features the 300 ml Ecopump in recycled plastic with a bio-resin pump, for both hair & body gel and liquid soap, designed to provide the exact amount of product needed and reduce product waste, while ensuring 5 times less plastic is used. Laurent Marchand, President of Groupe GM, commented “We are thrilled to have launched our second successful collaboration with La Compagnie de Provence. Inspired by a deep sense of authenticity, tradition, and the richness of nature, we think this next amenity collection is the perfect fit to meet the needs of the luxury hotels we work with, while fully in line with the values of our Care About Earth program. Discover all the brands offered by Groupe GM at: http://www.groupegm.com/ – or alternatively contact your local distributor.

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EVENTS

MEADFA The Middle East and Africa Duty Free Association (MEADFA) held its first Advocacy webinar of 2021. Entitled ‘The Road to Recovery’, the webinar was dedicated to demonstrating how the industry in Africa and the Middle East can recover given the difficult situation it faces with the COVID-19 crisis. Over 160 participants attended the event from 28 countries. The webinar saw a variety of key industry players participating, sharing their perspectives on the situation. Hume Brophy Managing Partner and Founder John Hume moderated the event, while MEADFA Vice President, Sherif Toulan, gave the opening welcome address. Alan Murray Hayden, Head of Airline, Airport and Security Compliance and Operational Solutions at IATA presented the opportunities for the industry that is possible with the newly developed IATA Travel Pass. Mutual recognition of vaccination amongst countries will be critical to the restart of aviation globally, and the only way that this can be done properly is by harnessing the power of modern technology. IATA’s Travelpass is now being trialled by over 30 airlines worldwide, including Emirates, Qatar, Etihad and Gulf Air. Murray Hayden also suggested that this initiative may hasten the move towards document-free travel which will have immediate implications for the duty free industry for passenger destination verification. Rita Chidiac, MEADFA Advocacy Working Group Secretary General, presented progress from recent advocacy the industry has engaged in, as well as the main regulatory issues MEADFA needs to address. Rita Chidiac outlined the progress of MEADFA in terms of structuring its resources, including the working groups that have been created to share regulatory intelligence. Chidiac’s call to action is very clear: “All brands from all categories are encouraged to reach out to educate authorities about our unique operating model. A cross category approach is needed alongside an efficient way of sharing intelligence.” Sarah Branquinho, DFWC President, concluded the webinar with a presentation on the

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outlines the road to recovery

WHO Protocol to eliminate the illicit trade in tobacco products. In a clear call to action to retailers and partners in the Middle East and Africa she pointed to the fact that over 40% of countries that have ratified the Illicit Trade Protocol come from this region; “The purpose of this Protocol is to stop the illicit trade of tobacco products. I fail to see why it is targeting law abiding responsible retailers and their airport and airline partners. We need to make this clear to our governments in the months ahead”. MEADFA Vice President Sherif Toulan stated that “the light at the end of the tunnel is near”. To ensure our industry has the best chances of recovery, MEADFA must act with its partners to ensure we can get back to normal as quickly as possible. There must be therefore increased cooperation between airports and airlines if this is to be achieved.

For further information: www.meadfa.com

Board Members and Officers elections The Middle East and Africa Duty Free Association held the elections of the board for the new term 2021 - 2023 during the virtual Annual General Meeting held on Tuesday, March 30, 2021. The Associate members selected the following board whilst the new board selected the committee officers as follows: Mr. Sherif Toulan

- CEO, IDFTA Ltd.

- President

Ms. Isabel Zarza Mr. Karl Raphael

- COO Central & North Europe, Russia and Africa - Vice President - CEO/ Chairman, Aphrodite SARL - Secretary General

Dr. Bernard Creed Mr. Haitham Al Majali Mr. David Bisset Mr. Frederic Garcia-Pelayo Mr. Richard Gray Mr. Tarek Hamila Mr. Alexandre Tabacoff Mr. Nicolas Van Brandt

- Senior VP Finance, Dubai Duty Free - CEO, Jordan Duty Free Shops - CEO, Lagardère Travel Retail - President,TaxFreeWorldAssociation - CEO, AerRianta International Middle East - Owner, Hamila Duty Free - Cluster General Manager, Dufry Sharjah - CEO, IDF Africa & Middle East DWC - LLC

- Treasurer


LAUNCH

A SHARED PASSION FOR EXCELLENCE

LALIQUE GROUP and BRIONI The new Eau de Parfum from the renowned luxury brand Brioni is now available, as light and sophisticated as a Brioni bespoke suit. Although these two companies work in different sectors, their shared passion for excellence and prestige has given rise to a unique partnership. The Eau de Parfum is now available worldwide in Brioni boutiques and from selected points of sale.

high quality materials such as pink peppercorn, cedarwood, tonka bean and violet. He says that he “sought to glorify Brioni’s sophisticated allure and elegance. A creation with few ingredients, this perfume lends further refinement to the clothing. They are juxtaposed perfectly to create an authentic sillage which channels the savoirfaire of the Italian couture studio.”

This supreme alliance has given rise to a unique partnership between the fragrance company and the luxury brand Founded in Rome in 1945, Brioni is a legendary menswear luxury house. In addition to its state-ofthe-art bespoke service, Brioni offers exceptional quality in ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes and eyewear. The foundation of the house’s identity is its unique Italian sartorial heritage. Lalique Group is a niche player in the creation, development, marketing and global distribution of luxury goods, with its business areas comprising perfumes, cosmetics, crystal, jewellery, high-end furniture and lifestyle accessories. The group was created in Paris in 1888 by the master glassmaker and jewellery designer René Lalique. The fragrance was created by Michel Almairac, Master Perfumer at Robertet, using a short, perfectly tailored formula- precision-cut from

The bottle is made from heavy, navy blue Italian glass, with square shoulders and bevelled edges. It is decorated with a satin label, inspired by the labels sewn inside the bespoke suits by Brioni. The Austrianborn designer of the bottle, Norbert Stumpfl has this to say about the new product: “Brioni is about Italian flair – Roman flair – and craftsmanship; about luxury and effortless masculine elegance: nonchalant and understated, for people in the know. We’re not about fashion; Brioni is about style.” And the design of the new Brioni Eau de Parfum reflects this aesthetic stance.

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FLASH/NEWS

MOLINARD PRESENTS OSMANTHUS,

A PERFUME FROM PARADISE

Osmanthus, the legendary flower whose name literally means “perfumed flower”, features in the new eau de parfum by Molinard. Defined by Japanese poets as the perfume of paradise for its intense aroma which inebriates the senses and even makes us doubtful as to its earthly origin. According to a Chinese legend, the Osmanhus grew in a lunar paradise and a divinity scattered some of its seeds on to Earth to root out the evil that was afflicting the human race. Its seeds and its distillate thus became a remedy to soothe human sufferings. Molinard’s new eau de pafum is an inebriating elixir that welcomes us into an enchanted garden with lively notes of bergamot and mandarin, to then open up to a heart of osmanthus where apricot prevails, underlining its fruity facets. Tuberose joins iris and white musks to seal this soft jus with a sensual touch. This divine fragrance invites us to a purifying peace of the senses.

The new packaging of Maison Molinard’s collection Les Elements has a violet bottle, with a sleek and simple shape, and copper details and cap, recalling distillation stills, the emblem of the ancestral expertise of the Maison Molinard.

the Magical Mushroom Company

announces large-scale production of its plastic-free packaging made from mushrooms

The Magical Mushroom Company (MMC), today announces the launch of large-scale production of its mushroom-derived biodegradable packaging, a plastic-free alternative that can be broken up to biodegrade on a home compost heap or flowerbed. Uniquely, this new packaging offers the same performance, at comparable cost, to traditional polystyrene, and is already being used to protect goods ranging from cookers, to cosmetics and a huge variety of everyday consumer products, including Diageo’s non-alcoholic gin brand, Seedlip. This extraordinary packaging is made possible through mycelium composite technology, pioneered and patented by US firm Ecovative Design LLC. The process takes the post-processing waste from agricultural products such as hemp, hops, corn and timber and combines them with mycelium – the root system of the mushroom. This living material is then grown to shape using 3D moulds of the packaging design. These moulds are baked, hardening the material and preventing any further growth. The full process, from design to prototype takes just 14 days. MMC Holding International LTD, trading as The Magical Mushroom Company, has the exclusive EU, UK and Ireland licence to produce Mushroom® Packaging. Its first facility, in Esher, Surrey, began production in August 2020 and has capacity to produce more than a million packaging units per year. The business will open a second UK plant in 2021, increasing total production to more than three million units per year. This will be followed by the opening of plants in Bulgaria and Italy, which together will

provide production capacity for the EU of more than six million units annually. A third continental European plant (in Germany) will open in 2022. With polystyrene causing immense environmental harm, a commercially viable and practical alternative is essential. Packaging produced by MMC is 100% biodegradable at home and breaks down in soil within 40 days. It also fully breaks down in water in just 180 days, meaning it has the long-term potential to significantly reduce the level of plastic waste in our oceans. MMC is already working with a number of iconic brands that are serious about reducing their environmental impact. Current clients include Lush Cosmetics, Raine Marine, Bodyshop, Seedlip (from the Diageo group) and luxury designer, Tom Dixon. Paul Gilligan, founder and CEO, commented: “We called ourselves the Magical Mushroom company for a reason. Mycelium’s unique qualities really are magical, enabling us to produce a hard-wearing, cost effective and totally sustainable alternative to polystyrene packaging that biodegrades in the back garden in under 40 days. “We’re thrilled to be open for business and excited by how quickly we’re scaling up our production and securing ever bigger contracts. Customer feedback has been universally positive and our earliest customers are all – without exception – now coming back for more.” “With over a decade of experience producing mycelium materials at scale, Ecovative is thrilled to see consumers and brands around the world adopt Mushroom® Packaging,” said Gavin McIntyre, co-founder and Director of Business Development at Ecovative Design. “We are excited to be working with Magical Mushroom Company to further scale this technology and look forward to providing more brands with this breakthrough packaging solution.”


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3 Senses GmbH Senefelder Strasse 1/T4 D-63110 Rodgau www.3senses.eu tran@3senses.eu Profumitalia s.r.l. Via A. Costa, 2 I-20131 Milano tel. +39/02-45375660 info@profumitalia.net www.profumitalia.it Acampora Profumi Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l. Via G. Filangieri, 72 I-80121 Napoli tel. +39/081.401701 www.brunoacampora.com Air-Val Air-Val Int. s.a. Beverly Hills Fragrances C/Miguel Servet, 27 E-08850 Gava (Barcelona) tel. +34-93/6355335 fax +34-93/6629806 Alyson Oldoini Parfums Luciano Oldoini s.r.l. V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 I-20122 Milano www.alysonoldoiniparfums.com Ancorotti Cosmetics Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l. Via del Commercio, 1 I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39/0373-876811.21 fax +39/0373-876811 Antiqua Firenze Enzo Galardi IO•KO Via Ilio Barontini 22 I-50018 Scandicci (FI) elisa.atelierbois.gmail.com www.bois1920.it Ars Mirabile - CBN S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. I-Care - Longevity Via della Liberazione, 56 M Masterpiece I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) tel. +39-02/98280925 fax +39-02/98280975 Fragrance division: The First s.p.a. Arrogance - GMV Via Fieno, 8 Valentina by Guido Crepax I-20123 Milano Cosmetic division: tel. +39-02/661381 Pikenz fax +39-02/66138519 Astra Giufra S.r.l. Via Veneto, 152 I-06059 Todi (PG) tel. +39-075.8987455 fax +39-075.8987691 Art Cosmetics Art Cosmetics s.r.l. I-24050 Mozzanica (BG) Via E. Mattei, 17/c tel. +39/0363-032011 www.artcosmetics.it - info@artcosmetics.it Artdeco Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. +49/8131-390100 - fax +49/8131 390129 Aubade - Montana Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 fax +33-1/42650074 Alain Delon Art & Fragrance SA Jaguar - Lalique Bühlstrasse 1 Nikki Beach CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Parfums Grès Direct +41-43/4994532 Ultrasun Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502 www.art-fragrance.com Alessandro Dell’Acqua Euroitalia s.r.l. Dsquared2 - Missoni Via G. Galilei, 1 Moschino - John Richmond I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) Joseph Abboud tel. +39-02/95916.1 Naj Oleari - Versace fax +39-02/95916500 Amarena Eurostyle s.p.a. Bella Oggi I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 tel. +39-081/5108427 fax +39-081/3158162 www.amarenamakeup.com info@amarenamakeup.com Aquolina - Baldinini Selectiva s.p.a. Paglieri 1876 S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 Pink Sugar I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663 Armand Basi - Angel Schlesser IDESA-Angelini Group Custo - Joaquín Cortés Via Augusta, 59-9 Mandarina Duck - Yekipé E-08006 Barcelona tel. +34-93/2920891 - fax +34-93/2176881 Axis - Hoops - Elanzia INCC Group Esprit de Versailles 85, avenue de Saint Cloud Mercedes-Benz F-78000 Versailles Monaco - Yujin tel. +33/1-39670671 fax + 33/1-39670672 www.inccgroup-parfums-com Balmain Parfums - Celine Interparfums Lanvin - Paul Smith - Roxi 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées Van Cleef & Arpels F-75008 Paris Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc tel. +33/1-53770000 fax +33/1-53763626 B.Kolor B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a. Via Canonica, 79/A - Loc. Geromina I-24047 Treviglio (BG) tel. +39/0363-590011 fax +39/0363-590212 info@bkolormakeup.com www.bkolormakeup-skincare.com

Boutique Cale’

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Costume National

Coverderm Covermark

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Enrico Gi Fragrances

Exclusive division: Braccialini - Byblos - Gandini Genny - Luciano Soprani Transvital Prestige division: Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport Lola - Looney Tunes Renato Balestra - Rockford Franck Olivier

Giorgio Jäneke

Guudcure Pollution Free

Henry Cotton’s - Ducati Gattinoni - Juventus Mcs - Monello Mascalzone NY League

Herbal Essentials

Inika Organic

Intertrade Europe

Jean Couturier Léonard Jesus del Pozo Roberto Verino Starck - Tous Kiko

Garden Cosmetics Via Pigafetta, 20 I-28100 Novara CALE’ s.r.l. Via S. Maria Podone, 5 I-20123 Milano tel. +39/02-76002494 fax +39/02-76009407 ww.cale.it - s.levi@cale.it Cofinluxe 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827 Collistar s.p.a. Via Pirelli, 19 - I-20124 Milano tel. +39-02/677503 - fax +39-02/6775454 Confalonieri Matite s.r.l. I-23020 Area Industriale - Gordona (SO) tel. +39/0343-42011 fax +39/0343 42000 www.confaloniericosmetica.com confaloniericosmetica.com Beauty San s.p.a. Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 www.beautysan.net Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 fax +39-02/89200371 Cosmetica s.r.l. Via S. Carlo 28 I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 - fax +39-0542/670911 Gold I-20131 Milano - Via Filippo Lippi 10 tel. +39/02_795862 www.goldmilano.it info@goldmilano.it Enrico Gi Fragrances Via della Tecnica, 32 I-37066 Sommacampagna (VR) tel. +39/045-8960480 fax +39/045-8960482 www.enricogifragrances.com info@enricogifragrances.com Eurocosmesi Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) tel. +39-051/6649238 fax +39-051/6649248

Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 - fax +33-1/42210888 Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l. I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. fax +39-0362/911100 HSA GROUP S.p.A. Via Ugo Foscolo, 27 I-21050 Bisuschio (VA) tel. +39/0332-476554 fax +39/03332-850307 hsa@hsacosmetics.com www.hsacosmetics.com Diamond International s.r.l. Via Foce Cesano,4/9 I-60019 Senigalla (AN) tel. +39/071-6610226 fax +39/071-6611104 info@diamondint.it www.difragrances.com Harmony Cosmetics DMCC Office 1906, Reef Tower, Cluster O, Jumeirah Lakes Tower, Dubai, U.A.E. tel. +971/4-4401277 fax + 971/4-4392243 www.herbal-essentials.com aly@harmony.ae Inika Organic 813 Springvale Road, - Mulgrave VIC - Australia 3170 tel. + 61 3 8544 80000 hello@inika.com.au HI Intertrade Europe Via Portogallo,11/125 I-35127 Padova tel. +39-049/7625241 fax +39-049/762 5177 VAG & Distribution 6, rue Pasquier F-75008 Paris tel. +33-1/58183970 - fax +33-1/40060210 Perfumes y Diseño España, S.L. Isla del Hierro, 5 E-28709 San Sebastian de los Reyes (Madrid) tel. +34-91/6588843 - fax +34-91/6588849 Milano Cosmetics s.r.l. Via Depretis, 6/9 I-24122 Bergamo tel. +39-035/3693611 fax +39-035/3693612

La Closerie des Parfums

Layla

L’Erbolario

Locherber

Lubin

Lumson Belotti

M:PLUS Cosmetics

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Parfums Pergolèse Paris

Payot

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Rancé

Sandalia

Salvatore Ferragamo Ungaro

Teatro Fragranze Uniche

Groupe Panther – La Closerie des Parfums ZI Gradignan Bersol 11 Avenue de la Madeleine F-33173 Gradignan cedex (France) tel +33/05.56.75.79.04 fax +33/05.56.75.53.36 valerie.madrid@lacloseriedesparfums.com www.lacloseriedesparfums.com Layla Cosmetics s.r.l. Via dei Pestagalli, 21 I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 fax +39-02/5061160 L’Erbolario s.p.a. V.le Milano, 74 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 fax +39/0371-491411 www.erbolario.com Cosval s.p.a. V.le delle Industrie 10/5 I-20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 fax +39/02 935 81 022 www.cosvality.com Lubin 3, rue du Roule F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 fax +33-1/45021316 Lumson S.p.A. Via Tesino, 62-64 I-26010 Capergnanica (CR) tel. +39/0373-2331 fax +39-0373-233355 www.lumson.com lumson@lumson.com M:PLUS Cosmetics Via Unità d’Italia, 9/11 I-20065 Inzago (MI) www.mascaraplus.com info@mascaraplus.com Mavive S.p.A. Via Altinia, 298/B I-30173 Venezia (Dese) tel. +39-041/5417771 fax +39-041/5417798 MI-in Paris 102, rue des Poissonniers F-75018 Paris tel. +33/6-65299995 www.mirecosmetics.com etremosa@mi-in.kr Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 fax +334-89123068 export@molinard.com www.molinard.com Nesti Dante s.r.l. Via della Molina, 39 I-50010 S.Donnino (FI) tel. +39-055/8739401/2 fax 39-055/8739768 Nouba s.r.l. I-24061 Albano S. Alessandro (BG) Via Santa Barbara, 6 tel. +39/035-581996 fax +39/035-4521099 www.nouba.it - info@nouba.it Paglieri s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663 Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 www.parfums-pergolese-paris.com Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 contact@payot.fr www.payot.com Micy’s Company s.p.a. Via De Gasperi, 22 I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 fax +39-039/89205859 Rancé & C. s.r.l. Via Lombardini, 10 I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855 fax +39-02/89401058 Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l. I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 www.acquadisardegna.it info@officinaprofumeriasarda Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a. Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 fax +39-055/3360734 Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l. Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it info@teatrofragranzeuniche.it


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PURE ACTIVES TARGETED SKINCARE SOLUTIONS.

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EM - Profumeria Selettiva 2-21  

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