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INTERVIEW

makeup in...

flexibility, staying small and meeting the world: this is the recipe for success We met Sandra Maguarian and Jean-Yves Bourgeois, the co-founders of MakeUp In… at the Parisian offices of Beauteam, so that they could tell us about the journey over the years to organize no fewer than 5 make-up shows in the world

geois Sandra Maguarian and Jean-Yves Bour

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Can we take stock of 2016? JEAN-YVES BOURGEOIS: Compared to 2015, we had a progression of 20% both in turnover and number of exhibitors. In 2016 there was the first MakeUp In Los Angeles which, although with only 30 exhibitors, had a good result. The make-up market trend has only reinforced the positioning of our shows, because small, medium and even some large brands are increasingly outsourcing their products. The first because they do not have a factory of their own and the others because there is the competition in development, innovation and creation, a characteristic of the present where the Internet and bloggers etc. mean that everything happens faster.

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For the brands to be flexible and innovative, they have to be able to react quickly, and this is where the role of those suppliers who have adopted the strategy of producing quality and advanced products becomes important. Many Italian companies have been highly performing in the sector for years, both in formulating and producing make-up and in having generated the notion of full service. The suppliers often also deal with packaging and accessories. EM: Are you satisfied with the positioning of the show? JYB: Yes, absolutely, we are the full service show for make-up and for the whole supply chain: 60% of our exhibitors are in formulation, 20-25% in packaging, the remainder in accessories.

At the first edition in Paris in 2010, we were aware of the dynamism in the sector but in the past couple of years there has been maximum acceleration. We now organize 5 shows, on 4 different continents: after Paris, New York, then Seoul, São Paulo and lastly Los Angeles. Every two months our exhibitors and visitors meet. EM: Have you created these editions to meet market requirements? SANDRA MAGUARIAN: More precisely it was the exhibitors of MakeUp In Paris who, from as early as 2010, considering the success of the first edition, asked us specifically for the same formula in New York, and then elsewhere. The exhibitors are not always the same as in Paris; some want to exhibit at several shows, others in rotation; obviously many of the exhibitors are local in the individual countries. JYB: We are always attentive to our exhibitors: some requested an event on the West Coast,

so in Los Angeles; Seoul was suggested to us by a couple of our well-known exhibitors and in any case met the need to have a show in Asia. We had already explored Korea to recruit companies for the existing shows. The Asian market is important, but for cultural reasons, not all countries are ready to exhibit in Korea. This is why, from 2018, the Asian show will be held in rotation in Seoul, Shanghai and Tokyo. EM: You have proven that you have started a machine that works… SM: Thank you… improvement is always possible and they say it takes eight years before you can say a show in consolidated…. JYB: The fact of being in 4 continents helps establish the concept that we are in a fantastic dynamic which lets us know everything, or almost, of what is going on in the world in make-up.

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