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Free PLeASe TAKe ONe



Champion West Berkshire Beers Saturday 9th September 2017 NORTHCROFT BUY FIELDS 12PM Y ONWARDS TICOUR KET ONL I S

NE FREE e xt with era drink to ticket very onlin ken e purch ased Subje ct to T&C’s


Ed Cowan, Clare Candy, Olly Ford-Lane, Katy Hudd, Will Twomey, Griff Maggs and James Macaulay

West Berkshire Brewery won two category awards in CAMRA’s 2017 Champion Beer of Britain contest – Silver (Mild) for Maggs’s Magnificent Mild and Joint Bronze (Best Bitters) for Good Old Boy.

Head Brewer Will Twomey and fiance Katy Hudd (Newlyweds since 19 August) were among brewery staff celebrating after the results were announced on 8 August (Trade Day) at the Great British Beer Festival.

The brewery’s CEO Simon Lewis said ‘We’re honoured to see both ales win awards in such an important competition’. See page 5 for other photos and awards from the festival.

The pub’s large family friendly outdoor area includes an animal enclosure.

The Runner up award goes to another previous winner, The Three Horseshoes, Brimpton. Landlady Michelle Lebrasse is justifiably proud of the pub’s charitable events, teams and community support including a Post Office service twice a week. In December, Aladdin will be the annual charity pantomine at the Three Horseshoes. CAMRA members benefit from a 20p pint discount on Arkell’s ales at the Brimpton pub.

Community Pub Awards

Landlord of the Cottage Inn, Gary Bush, was presented with the award by branch secretary Mike Avery on Tuesday 8 August. This was the fourth time that the Upper Bucklebury pub has won and reflects strong support from customers and its status as an Asset of Community Value. Regular events include fireworks displays, Classic Car shows and the Tour de Berkshire cycling circuit.

ON OTHER PAGES Swift Halves - Pub and brewery news LocAle + Pub, brewery & festival news Gig Guide + Great British Beer Festival Belgian Beer Trip Pub Profile: Catherine Wheel, Newbury Art & Beer, USA + Rhythm & Brews Goring to Henley Hike + Brakspear Trails Book Review: 20th Century Pub Boak & Bailey + Curmudgeon columns Diary Dates, CAMRA Contacts & Festivals

Ullage September - November 2017

2 3, 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Photo: David Hatfull (2015)

Photo: Chris Reynolds

Over 100 nominations were received for the 2017 West Berkshire Community Pub of the Year award.


Swift Halves

West Berkshire Brewery ‘version 4 / 2017’

Midsummer Christmas Party at Wild Weather Ales 29 July 2017

Arkell and Noel Arkell. Arkell’s are donating £10 for every barrel sold to the Royal British Legion. ■ Members can purchase the Good Beer Guide for £10 at our launch event on Tuesday 19 September. The venue for this will be announced after publication date (14 September) on social media and on our website:

■ Welcome to Wild Weather Ales, based at Easter Park, Aldermaston, after their recent administrative transfer into the Central Southern CAMRA region. Steve Kelly is their new Brewery Liaison Officer (seen wearing a brewery t-shirt at the Great British Beer Festival on page 5). A larger canning machine has been ordered to cope with Wild Weather’s first export order. The latest collaboration brews planned are with Brewheadz of London (Tiramisu Stout) and with Mad Hatter Brewing Company in Liverpool.

Recent Wild Weather ales, selected for the Newbury Real Ale Festival on Saturday 9 September, are Babel Tree (3% ABV Table Beer), Bragging Rights (5% New England IPA) and Hero Factory (7% Ekuanot hopped IPA). Other beers to look out for are First Person Fruiter (5% Cherry Sour), When in Bruges (5.5% Belgian inspired American IPA) and Breakfast at Sicily’s (5.5% Cloudy Lemonade Pale)

scratch can be viewed via Google photos at Some tickets may still be available for afternoon and evening sessions of OktoberWest Bierfest at Yattendon’s Tithe Barn on 23 September. This year an expanded beer range includes Augustiner-Bräu Lagerbier Hell and Beatnikz Republic Farmhouse Hitchhiker. Horsebox Waffle Co, Go Fish & Chips and Wild & Rustic are among the event caterers. See advertisement for further details. The next seasonal cask beer is Yule Fuel from November, a deep red winter warmer. Look out for a special barrel aged version of Tamesis Extra Stout in bottles from October. The brewery’s Multiples Account Manager, Ruth Mitchell, picked Rag’n’Bone Man’s Bottom of a Bottle as a tune to match Tamesis in a recent Rhythm & Brews podcast (further details page 8).

UK’s Best-Selling Beer & Pub Guide E D ITE D BY


■ Newbury Real Ale Festival on Saturday 9 September is organised by Newbury and Thatcham Hockey Club, at Northcroft Fields. This year’s theme is breweries from Berkshire, Dorset, Flintshire, Shropshire, Staffordshire and Strathclyde. The festival starts at noon and live music ends at 9.30pm with bands including Elasea and No Good Sons. There will be a hog roast and more food options including California Taco and Little Reds Pizza. No dogs are allowed this year. Entry is £10, for two half pint drink tokens and a glass. Advance purchase guarantees entry and earns a bonus drink token.

ting ARE dona el ARKE LL’S every barr £10 for sold to:



4 T H W I LT S H I R E




G r e at g r a n d fat h e r Noel ARKELL

Look out for West Berkshire CAMRA’s festival stand for membership and volunteering information. Members can enter a free draw to win CAMRA’s 2018 Good Beer Guide.


in memory



■ The latest Arkell’s Brewery seasonal ales are Spiced Pumpkin Ale (4.2% ABV) for October and Old Contemptible (4.0%) for November. The label for this WW1 Centenary Ale includes a photograph of the 4th Wiltshire Regiment including Graham 4.0% ALC.

■ As the build of the new West Berkshire Brewery nears completion, the last tour of the ‘version 3 / 2011’ brewery was on 26 August. Tours of the shiny new brewery can be booked for Saturday, 28 October, 18 November and 9 December. Stages of the brewery build from

■ Local residents in Hamstead Marshall and Baydon are campaigning for the White Hart Inn to be reopened and for the Red Lion to remain open as a pub. Websites with contact details etc &

We are in the CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2017 (9th year running)

Meals served evenings and lunch times (except Mondays) Closed Sunday evenings (except Bank Holiday weekends) Traditional Sunday Roast lunches En Suite Guest Rooms & Function Room available Choice of 3 Cask Ales Live Music & Street Food, including Bavarian bratwurst

‘Pie and Pudding Club’ every Wednesday!

Saturday 23rd September 2017


Day Session


per session and include a free pint & a stein (both sessions can be purchased if required)

For more info and to book call

West Berks CAMRA Pub of the Year 2008 and 2015

Evening Session


or book online at WBBREW.COM

AA 2


The Six Bells, The Green, Beenham Reading RG7 5NX Tel: 0118 9713368 Email:

The Campaign for Real Ale West Berkshire

■ Postponed from August, the Meet The Brewer event at the Cow & Cask micropub, Newbury, on Wednesday 6 September features Andy Watts from Little London Brewery. Tickets (£5) include beer samples. ■ The Catherine Wheel, Newbury, is hosting beer festivals in the courtyard: 31/8-3/9 (pre Newbury Real Ale Festival); 28-29/9 (pre Pauline & Warwick Heskins wedding, on 30/9, when pub will be closed) and 28/10 Halloween Party & Spooky Beer Festival. Enjoy a Pieminister pie from the Catherine Wheel’s stall at Newbury Real Ale Festival and keep your festival wristband for 50p off a pint at the pub until 16 September. Travel on Tim Wale’s classic double decker bus to visit pubs and West Berkshire Brewery on Saturday 11 November when the Catherine Wheel goes on tour. Tickets (£20) include travel, lunch and a t-shirt. ■ After raising funds from shareholders Tutts Clump Cider Ltd has ordered a belt press and associated Tim Wale (Tutts Clump Cider) & his 1956 AEC Regent 111 equipment for installation in late bus – after Alton bus rally October. Tim Wale says ‘This will allow four times the amount of apples to be pressed in the same time as on our current press. We have also ordered a bag in box machine which will speed this operation up ten fold and a small bottling plant to allow us to bring everything back in-house.’ Tim is offering a bottle of Tutts Clump cider for every 25kg sack of surplus apples that E Se stab r cli ving lishe en d ts ove 20 na r 1 06 tio ,0 nw 00 ide

Free initial c lean


N o co m m No con itment tract



Get in contact today for your FREE first clean Mob: 07817 950853 Office: 0118 954 0568

Email: Ullage September - November 2017

Several of our customers are featured in the 2017 CAMRA Good Beer Guide

people bring to Travellers Rest Farm, Hungerford Lane, Bradfield. RG7 6JH Tel 0118 974 4649

■ RPA (Ramsbury Pale Ale) is Ramsbury Brewery’s new regular pale and fruity 4% ABV beer that will replace Sunsplash. The 4.8% MM golden ale was brewed with Citra and Azacca hops to celebrate the 2,000th brew at the brewery which uses grain from the Ramsbury Estate. Another new beer is Purple Pig Stout (4.7%) with a distinctive plum flavour. ■ The Isle of Wight branch of CAMRA and the IoW Bus Museum will hold another Classic Buses, Beer and Walks Weekend on the island 14/15 October. ■ Mosquito is a 6.5% ABV medium-dry cider made by Ciderniks of Kintbury for The People’s Mosquito. A donation for every sale will help fund the rebuilding of a de Havilland DH.98 Mosquito ‘the Wooden Wonder’. The Owl & The Pussycat microbrewery & pub, London W13, 5 Aug 2017

Our branch needs your support Carl Griffin, CAMRA’s Central Southern Regional Director, attended the West Berkshire branch’s AGM at the Diamond Tap, Newbury on 27 June. Richard Scullion, Branch Chairman, tendered his resignation, due to an intended relocation, but will continue as Acting Chairman. He offered his support to anyone wishing to have a trial period as Chairman. Thanks were given to Richard, Neil Chester, resigning as Treasurer and Sam Williams, resigning as Social Secretary. Carl clarified that without a Chairman, Secretary or Treasurer, the branch would be suspended and Ullage would cease publication. It was a relief to welcome Alison Chetwynd to the branch committee as the new Treasurer and avoid this scenario. In addition to Chairman and Social Secretary, the roles of Pubs Protection Officer, Pubs Campaigning Co-Ordinator and Ullage Advertising Manager are open to volunteers wishing to make a worthwhile contribution to CAMRA campaigns in support of real ale, cider, pubs and clubs. Please attend one of our events or meetings or contact Mike Avery, Branch Secretary, whose contact details are on the back page, if you can help our branch and Ullage.

Volunteering opportunities What CAMRA volunteers say ... “Fantastic friendships and CAMRA camaraderie” “Acquiring new skills and becoming more knowledgeable about beer” Ways you can get more involved with CAMRA ... • Edit magazines • Manage advertising • Brewery liaison • Survey pubs • Campaigning & Lobbying • Taste & score beer • Festival bar work • Social media

West Berkshire CAMRA on tour - Mike Avery, Sam Williams, Rich Milligan, Chris Reynolds, Richard & Paul Scullion

& many more ...


A beautiful, authentic country pub with rooms offering: Award winning real ales from West Berks brewery in the village Stunning, Michelin rated, home cooked food Delicious Sunday roasts Fixed price lunch menu Monday to Friday 10 luxurious guest bedrooms Glorious walled beer garden Al fresco dining under leafy vine terrace 3 roaring log fires 3 private dining rooms for up to 70 guests

Accreditations include : Muddy Stilettos – Best Boutique Stay 2017 Alistair Sawday’s Special Places To Stay 2017 The Michelin Guide 2017 The AA Good Pub Guide 2017 Country & Town House - Great British & Irish Hotels 2017 THE SQUARE, YATTENDON, BERKSHIRE RG18 0UG TELEPHONE: 01635 201 325 EMAIL: INFO@ROYALOAKYATTENDON.COM WWW.ROYALOAKYATTENDON.COM

The John O’ Gaunt Inn, Hungerford Proud To Be Part Of The Award Winning INNformal Pub Co & Brewery • Beautiful newly refurbished pub • Hungerford’s finest selection of real ales & cider • Over 50 bottled beers around the world • Boasts its very own micro brewery on site • Serving locally sourced, lovingly prepared and superbly cooked food every day John O’ Gaunt, Bridge Street, Hungerford, Berkshire, RG17 0EG +44 1488 683535 3

■ After 300 years as a pub, Upper Lambourn’s Malt Shovel will be converted into six flats following West Berkshire Council’s Western Area Planning Commitee approval for an application by its owner, Roger McCabe, who claimed the business was no longer viable. Subsequently, a letter about community pubs, from CAMRA member Roy Bailey, published in the Newbury Weekly News (17/8/2017) finishes ‘It therefore behoves all of us who love these valuable community resources to keep campaigning to preserve them.’ ■ Chef Dom Robinson is reopening the Blackbird, Bagnor, as a gastropub in late September with locally sourced ales including West Berkshire Brewery. ■ The last Friday of the month is curry night at the Red House, Marsh Benham. Regular beers are West Berkshire Brewery’s Good Old Boy and Mr Chubb’s Lunchtime Bitter with a guest ale. Pub and restaurant staff are being recruited, via the Red House, Marsh Benham, for the Castle Inn, Donnington, which is due to reopen in Ocbober as the Castle at Newbury, with local ales. ■ The INNformal brewery, based at the Five Bells, Wickham, is brewing INNterchangeable Pale (4.5% ABV) with two different hops on every occasion, for sale at the pub and its sister pub, the John O’Gaunt, Hungerford. Smaller brews of Black Pepper Porter (6%), INNperial Stout (10%) and Old INN Days (8.5% Old Ale) will be available at the Five Bells during September, October and November respectively.

■ The World’s Biggest Real-Ale Festival with 25 breweries from the UK and 5 international brewers, including Young Henrys (Sydney), Cerveza Fort (Barcelona) and St. Eriks Bryggeri (Sweden), will be held in Wetherspoon pubs, including the Hatchet Inn and Diamond Tap, Newbury from 11-22 October. ■ First brewed in 2016 and named Beer of the Festival at Burghfest, P.O.T.U.S. is returning as Loddon Brewery’s seasonal beer for September. Loddon Brewery have become elite sponsors of Henley Hawks RFC where the Hobbs Bar features three Loddon beers. ■ Lauren Weir took over at the Downgate, Hungerford, in July. After ten days of refurbishment, the small pub on the edge of the Common, has been transformed. Recent customer reviews have mentioned good food and hospitality. A range of Arkell’s Brewery beers is available. ■ The Three Swans Hotel, Hungerford, has reopened after refurbishment. The bar is relocated to the left of the main entrance. Ramsbury Gold, Black Sheep Bitter and a guest ale are served.

40 LocAle pubs in our branch serving beer from breweries within a 25 mile radius. See aalso the LocAle page on our website: LocAle Pubs - WEST of A34 The Bell at Boxford


The Blackbird


The Blue Ball


The Coach

World’s End, Beedon

The Downgate


The Eastbury Plough


The Five Bells


The Fox at Peasemore The John O’Gaunt Inn The Red House

Peasemore Hungerford Marsh Benham

Royal British Legion


The Rising Sun


The Swan Inn The Tally Ho

Inkpen Hungerford Newtown

The Three Swans Hotel


Locally Brewed Real Ale

■ The 5th Maidenhead Beer & Cider Festival (19-21 October) will be held in a new venue. The Magnet Leisure Centre is a half mile from the station. Tokens are worth one third of a pint. See advertisement for more details. See also the Curmudgeon column (page 11) for a discussion of the relative merits of a two thirds pint measure against a half pint (not available at this festival). ■ The Nag’s Head, Reading, is the CAMRA Central Southern Region Pub of the Year and goes forward to the final stage of the contest.

great beers from oxfordshire since 2003

visit us online


The Campaign for Real Ale West Berkshire

Great British Beer Festival August 2017, London Olympia Champion Beer of Britain 2017 Gold

- Church End, Goat’s Milk (Bitters)

Silver - Bishop Nick, Ridley’s Rite (Bitters) Bronze - Tiny Rebel, Cwtch (Best Bitters)

Other category winners: Mild

- Rudgate, Ruby Mild

Golden Ale

- Blue Monkey, Infinity

Ryan McNulty & Kevin Black, New Wharf Brewing Co, Maidenhead. Established 2017

- Saltaire, Triple Chocoholic

Alexis Leclere & Taylor Allan with Joint bronze (Bitters) CBOB award for Sambrook’s Wandle Ale

Other awards to London and South East breweries : 1977-2017






West Berkshire, Maggs’ Magnificent Mild

Best Bitters -

Joint Bronze


West Berkshire, Good Old Boy Surrey Hills, Shere Drop


Joint Bronze


Sambrook’s, Wandle Ale Triple FFF, XB


Ace Space, St. Nicolas’ Road, Newbury. Tickets: Hogan Music, Newbury. 16 Sept - Hut People + August List 29 Sept - Rainbow Girls 14 Oct - Porchlight Smoker + Bright Shadows 25 Nov - Jaywalkers + Saskia Angel, Woolhampton - Saturdays Jazz on last Saturday of the month Also Live Sunday music sessions 2pm

Strong Bitter - Greytrees, Afghan Pale Ale Speciality

Gig Guide

The first CAMRA Great British Beer Festival was held at Alexandra Palace in 1977

189,000+ Members

Monument, Newbury - Fridays & Saturdays Open Mic night with Oli Hill on Thursdays 7 Oct - Syn City Rockers The Canal Bar, Newbury – Fridays 15 Sep - Riff Raff 17 Nov - Thunderslug Lion, Newbury 14 Oct - Ilkley Lads 28 Oct - MASH 4 Nov - BeatleJuice 25 Nov - Iron Lotus The Newbury, Newbury Fortnightly on Thursdays - Sion Whiley presents Open Mic night on the roof terrace Old London Apprentice, Newbury 15 Sep & 14 Oct - Bluehayz 16 Sep & 11 Nov - Fubar


White Hart, Thatcham – Saturdays 16 Sep - MASH 23 Sep - BeatleJuice 14 Oct - Steeler 18 Nov - No Way Out 25 Nov - Ray Jones Band

1,000 volunteers involved in GB Beer Festival CAMRA members Steve Kelly & Simon Grist

Richard Marshall, Hermitage Brewery

Beers from Berkshire at the Great British Beer Festival 2017 Binghams, Citra Chinook Stardust, PK3 West Berkshire, Good Old Boy + Maggs’ Magnificent Mild Windsor & Eton / Uprising, 4 beers at London Beer City bar

Taste of England, Thatcham 7 Oct & 2 Dec - Fubar More pubs with live music: Hungerford area: Railway Tavern, Tally Ho, Wheatsheaf Newbury area: Lock Stock & Barrel , Old London Apprentice, Starting Gate


Cow & Cask is available for private hire, and given enough notice we will try very hard to have “Your Favourite Micro Brewery Ale” on the stillage. Although we are a “Micro Pub” we can Squeeze, Jimmie, Squash or Shoehorn 20-25 persons in and make them comfortable. We can also provide a few seats!!!

Ullage September - November 2017

1 Inches Yard Market Street Newbury RG14 5DP

Opening Hours Mon Closed Tue 5-9 Wed 5-9 Thu 12-2, 5-9 Fri 12-2, 5-10 Sat All Day 12-10 Sun Closed Discount for CAMRA card holders

Tel: 07517 658071

About us Since 2006 we’ve been lovingly crafting award-winning, bottle conditioned cider in West Berkshire. We make it the old fashioned way – by hand.

Real Ales Dog & Family Friendly

That’s why we call it – ‘Proper Cider’ Available in Waitrose

Get in touch Tel. 0118 974 4649 Tweet. @tuttsclumpcider

01672 541224 5

Belgian Beer Trip A group of CAMRA friends met up in Belgium to visit breweries, bars and beer festivals in late June. Travelling by train, Tim Thomas visited Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp and Brussels. On a hot Thursday in Ghent, Mark, Dave and Tim found refreshment at Gentse Gruut Brewery where Annick de Splenter brews most of the beer Antwerp Beer Passion Weekend – Dixieland street band

Gentse Gruut Stadsbrouwerij – Ghent

range with Gruut herbs and spices but without hops. Inside the spacious taproom, our table was between the raised bar and fermenting vessels , lying horizontally underneath a platform supporting a lifelike cow!


Keith Moore is an award-winning homebrewer based near Frankfurt. He kindly shared a bottle of black IPA, brewed under his supervision at Rheinhessen Brau for the second CraftBeerMesse in Mainz in November 2016. Our group grew to ten on Sunday evening when Karen and Barry joined us in the courtyard

With a liking for wheat beer, Tim’s favourite here was Gruut Wit (5% ABV, €3.20 for 33cl). In Antwerp, we met up with friends on Friday 23 June for the opening night of the 18th annual Bierpassie Weekend organised by Ben Vinken, held in Groenplaats, near the cathedral. A festival glass and programme costs €5 and tokens for 20cl beer are €2 each, allowing beers from over 30 Belgian breweries to be sampled. Brussels. L to R: Dave Hatton, Simon Grist, Keith Moore, John Reynor, Andrew Bennett, Richard Roberts, Tim Thomas, Karen & Barry Garber After a successful crowdfunding campaign, it should also of Poechenellekelder, Brussels, a few steps from be possible to drink Seef the popular Mannekin Pis water feature statue. Bier and Bootjes Bier at For further Belgian beer trip details including the new Antwerpse Bourgogne des Flandres, Le Trappiste, Billie’s Bier Brouw Compagnie Kafetaria, Kulminator, Brouwerij The Musketeers brewery taproom, and Modeste Bier Festival (30/9 – 1/10/2017) see Indiestraat 21, by Tim’s five retrospecitve daily posts at June 2018.

The Campaign for Real Ale West Berkshire

Pub Profile # 59

The Catherine Wheel Newbury The Catherine Wheel has been a central fixture in the heart of the bustling market town for many years. After a brief period as the Jack of Newbury, it has been through a regeneration, in the last three years, under the management of landlords Warwick & Pauline Heskins. Situated close to the Market Place, it is a very easy pub to visit being close to the railway station, bus stops and the Kennet & Avon Canal.

On arrival you will notice the old Catherine Wheel pub sign, which hung outside for many years, now happily refurbished to its former glory and taking pride of place above the fireplace. A second fireplace, in the middle of the pub, warms the rooms on cold winter nights. The bar is easy on the eye with a range of at least six, constantly changing, real ales on handpump, with many of the offerings coming from local brewers like West Berkshire, Wild Weather, Binghams & Longdog. Draught craft ales and lagers include Blue Moon Wheat Beer, Meantime Pale Ale and Renegade Craft Lager. To complement these, Warwick has the largest range in West Berkshire of international bottled / canned beers, ranging from Belgian Dubbel to Icelandic White Ale alongside offerings from New Zealand Warwick, Pauline & Sam and Hawaii.

All three of West Berkshire’s cider producers (CiderNiks, Wyatt’s & Tutts Clump) are represented along with ciders and perries from further afield. A minimum of eight are available served from ‘bag in box’ again complemented by a range of bottles and cans. In 2015, the Catherine Wheel won the West Berkshire CAMRA Cider Pub of the Year award. Recently, The Catherine Wheel was the first ‘Untappd Verified Venue’ in Berkshire ( At the end of the bar, a TV screen displays the current beer and cider menu as well as beers ‘in the cellar’ via Untappd.

The kitchen is open every day with ‘Pie & Mash house’ style food. Pieminister pies on the menu include ‘Matador’, ‘Moo & Blue’, ‘Chicken of Aragon’ and ‘Saag Pie-neer’. On Sundays extra side dishes make a ‘Pie Roast’ possible. The cobbled courtyard area outside is roomy and semi-undercover with a separate bar and a list of over 100 gins from around the world. This bar also operates during Beer & Cider Festivals when, typically, up to 15 beers are on offer as well as 12 ciders / perries. Another outside attraction is live music performed #BehindTheDoor. The volume of the TV screen, on the courtyard wall, is always muted so as not to infringe on the busy chatter that makes the Catherine Wheel the home of great conversation. Opening Hours: Mon - Wed 12 – 11 Thu 12.- 1am Fri - Sat 12 – 2am Sun 12 – 11

Food: 12 - 9.30 12 - 10 12 - 10 12 - 6

The Catherine Wheel, 35 Cheap Street, Newbury RG14 5DB Website: Email: Facebook: @thecatherinewheelnewbury Twitter: @cathwheelnew Tel. 01365 569897 Rod Holmes

Ullage September - November 2017


A popular holiday area in the highlands of western Massachusetts, the Berkshires are home to two breweries with a Hampshire, UK, connection. Chris Post, from Hurstbourne Tarrant, founded Wandering Star Brewing Co in Pittsfield and is brewmaster at nearby Bright Ideas Brewing

Photo: Meg Thomas

Franz West’s Les Pommes d’Adam at MASS MoCA

Rhythm & Brews The Rhythm & Brews July podcast featured beers from special guests Renegade and West Berkshire Brewery. Representing the breweries, CEO Simon Lewis and Ruth Mitchell met Rhythm & Brews presenters Luke Murphy-Wearmouth and Andrew Green to match four beers with music. Andrew explained the theory that the right tune can enhance flavours in a beer with bass notes, high tones and discordancy enhancing

Co on the campus of the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (MASS MoCA) in North Adams. Previously the Arnold Print Works, the complex, dating from 1860, is one of the largest centres for visual and performing arts in the USA and hosts Wilco’s annual Solid Sound Festival. Recognising English voices, Chris introduced himself to Meg Thomas who visited the museum and Bright Ideas taproom in July. Meg discovered that Chris is a cousin of Tom Lucas at West Berkshire Brewery. It’s a small world! Chris kindly offered Meg a beer. While Aaron poured her glass of Spinney, Meg photographed Chris posing with her spare copy of Ullage.

bitterness, sweetness and sourness respectively ‘the neurological strand’. Additionally ‘the experiential strand’ suggests that a beer can be captured in an experience by some aspect of the tune. Luke was impressed that the Renegade Brewery website already features music (and food) matching choices for each beer. Simon, once a cathedral chorister, mentioned

Chris Post

Find out more details about the breweries from and a video interview with Chris in ‘Behind the scenes at Wandering Star Brewery’ on Adam’s Aussie Beer Lover YouTube channel.

the importance of music to the breweries with Ed Dyer (@gig_monkey) booking gigs, Will Twomey playing guitar, Griff Maggs drumming and others who can sing. Talking about her favourite beers, Ruth, a Beer Sommelier, mentioned Rodenbach Grand Cru, Renegade West Coast pale ale and American hopped IPAs from Moor and Buxton breweries. After this introduction, each person gave their choice of tune(s) to go with a beer. Judge for yourself if the music interacts with the beers by listening to the podcast and sampling the four beers listed below at the relevant points.

Renegade Craft Lager 4.5% ABV (Crisp, Clean, Refreshing)


Balkan Beat Box – Dancing with the Moon

@ 20 mins

Maharaja Pale Ale 4.5% ABV (English hops including Olicana)


The National – This is the Last Time

@ 39 mins

Renegade West Coast Pale Ale 5.1% ABV (Citrusy, Hoppy, Bitter)


The Red Hot Chili Peppers - Higher Ground

@ 55 mins

Tamesis Extra Stout 4.9% ABV (a thick, smooth body and chocolate flavour)


a) Jon Boden & The Remnant Kings - Has Been Cavalry b) Rag’n’Bone Man - Bottom of a Bottle

@ 77 mins

The Castle Inn · Cold Ash 䡲 West Berkshire CAMRA Community Pub of the Year 2010

䡲 Good Beer Guide 2011-14 & 2016-17 䡲 Cask Marque accredited since 2002 䡲 Five real ales including one from West Berkshire Brewery

One of Newbury’s oldest and finest Inns Enjoy West Berkshire‘s Good Old Boy And our weekly guest beers from some of the areas finest producers Great Fresh Food served daily Bath Road, Speen, RG14 1QY (01635) 521152 8





䡲 Open all day - every day Hot soup and a roll 2.30-5.30pm 䡲 Family and dog friendly 䡲 Good value food

䡲 Quiz Mondays at 8.30pm

Visit our brewery and distillery or buy at

Cold Ash Hill ·Cold Ash ·Thatcham ·Berkshire RG18 9PS Tel: 01635 863232 · Follow us on Facebook

The Campaign for Real Ale West Berkshire

Photo: Meg Thomas

Art & Beer in The Berkshires, USA

Goring to Henley-on-Thames hike Alan Haselden On a radiant, sunny Saturday morning in early August, seven colleagues / friends and I met at Reading’s Back of Beyond to enjoy a pre-hike Wetherspoon full English breakfast.

The Packhorse, Chazey Heath

From Reading station we travelled to Goring to begin our 15 mile hike, initially along the Thames Path going eastwards. After a couple of miles we ascended a steep hill to reach the way-marked Chiltern Way and before long arrived in the tranquil village of Whitchuch Hill, home of The Sun freehouse.

Alan Haselden

chose chicken, ham and leek pie with mash; classic fish and chips; spicy chicken salad and fish finger sandwiches for our satisfying meals. The locally-brewed cask ale selection was from Ascot, Loddon, Two Cocks, West Berkshire and Windsor & Eton. Ascot’s 4.2% ‘Posh Pooch’ best bitter proved the favourite. Despite the restaurant’s bustle and congestion, the staff remained congenial and diligent. The Bottle & Glass Inn, Binfield Heath

This is a traditional English pub comprising a central bar, two lounge areas with whitewashed walls, fireplaces, black-painted oak beams, and a small side area with dartboard. The Sun, Whitchurch Hill

At the bar, friendly staff were serving Loddon’s 3.5% ‘Hoppit’ and West Berkshire’s 3.7% ‘Mr Swifts’ and 4% ‘Good Old Boy’ and were found to be in splendid form. Continuing along the Chiltern Way via woodland and vibrant wild flower meadows, we descended a different steep hill down towards the Thames at Mapledurham and witnessed an immense bank of deeply leaden cloud angrily discharging forked lightning and booming out thunder. Luckily it was a few miles to the south, although we did endure a half minute of pounding hail while marvelling at the village’s church, the location of Churchill’s hideout in the Eagle Has Landed film, and the watermill, the location of Black Sabbath’s eponymous debut album. By mid-afternoon, with sunshine blazing from a clear blue skies, we arrived at Chazey Heath’s Packhorse pub/restaurant. Two-roomed, traditional and replete with historical photos and paintings, today it was busy with families and individuals hanging out for a pint or two. We Ullage September - November 2017

ales, Rebellion’s 4.2% ‘IPA’, Loddon’s 4.4% ‘Ferryman’s Gold’ and ‘Hoppit’. A pleasant toddle through fields and woods ensued and finally we reached Henley-onThames, a town that greets you with lavish abodes. The Bird in Hand is a mid-terrace town pub, adorned with hanging flower baskets in bloom at the front and comprising a single large lounge room, a small quiet back room and an enclosed rear garden - gloriously abundant in flora - with a pond and fountain. Five ales from Andwell, Brakspear, Fuller’s, Hook Norton and Timothy Taylor were up and running and we were chuffed to enjoy a round of Hook Norton’s ‘Hooky Mild’, the gently fruity, ruby mild, now brewed at only 2.8%. Leaving Henley by train just after 8pm, some of us called in at Reading’s Alehouse for a slow round of Ascot’s 5% smoky dry stout, ‘Anastasia’. Here we reflected on highs and comparative lows of our rural South Oxfordshire tour and two unequivocal highlights stood out: the beautiful English countryside and the slew of well-run hostelries that can’t help but serve LocAle - surely a triumph for the Campaign!

For the rest of the afternoon and early evening we followed leafy footpaths and bridleways to Henley-on-Thames refreshed by a steady breeze and delighting in golden sunlight and lengthening shadows. En route we passed the sleepy village of Binfield Heath and couldn’t resist a swift call at the Bottle & Glass Inn, which is a large thatched cottage in a mock Tudor style. Its two Spartan rooms had whitewashed walls and oak beamed ceilings, and patterned Persian-style rugs graced the tiled floor. Our choice comprised three local

CAMrA member Chris reynolds is also Membership Secretary of West Berks ramblers and will be leading two walks in October. Wed 26 Oct 9.30am: Meet under M4 bridge on Welford Road, Wickham. 11 mile walk with lunch at the Ibex, Chaddleworth.

Tue 31 Oct 10am Meet at car park opposite Horse & Groom, Mortimer. Walk via Wokefield Common and Stratfield Mortimer. Optional lunch at pub afterwards. Contact Chris on 01635 226826 or 07979 804637 about a trial ramble.

The Brakspear Pub Trails have been created in partnership with the Trust for Oxfordshire’s Environment (TOE2). TOE2 volunteers mapped out and tested routes from Brakspear pubs. Route map leaflets are available in pubs for a 50p donation to Marie Curie, Brakspear’s nominated charity for 2017 and can be downloaded from Among the pubs with walking trails are: Goring’s Catherine Wheel and John Barleycorn; Perch & Pke, South Stoke; Rainbow Inn, Middle Assendon; Malsters Arms, Rotherfield Greys (near Greys Court, NT) and ten pubs in Henley-on-Thames including the Bull on Bell Street (where Brakspear Special, Brakspear Mild and seaonal beers like Honey Bee have been brewed at the Bell Street Brewery since 2013).


Book Review - 20th Century Pub / Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey 20th Century Pub – From Beer House to Booze Bunker is the full title of Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey’s illustrated book, published on 15 September 2017. Known also for their beer blog, Boak & Bailey won the British Guild of Beer Writers award for 2014 Beer Writer of the Year, after the publication of their first book, Brew Britannia – The Strange Rebirth of British Beer. In the intervening years, they have gathered further material for their blog and 20th Century Pub, including going without normal holidays to visit pubs away from their West Country base. In the Introduction, they write ‘... the pub remains the default ‘third place’ in English life – somewhere neither home nor work. If offers a chance for people to mix, to mingle and to look into each other’s eyes.’ A Prologue ‘Inns, Taverns and Gin Palaces’ looks at the history of pubs prior to the 20th century including alehouses and beerhouses. Four parts contain the eleven subsequent chapters. Part 1 includes chapters on ‘Improved Pub’ covering Inter-War pubs and ‘War Pub’. Part 2 includes chapter 4 ‘Mod Pub’ on post-1950s pubs including concrete ‘booze bunkers’ appended to shopping centres or office blocks in town and city centres. Chapter 5 ‘Theme Pub’ mentions the Chelsea Drugstore, Reading’s Mitre Steak House and Sheffield’s Stone House ‘with a roofed interior courtyard set with electric ‘stars’ and faux-facades of Elizabethan buildings all around.’. Chapter 6 ‘CAMRA Pub’ describes the effect of CAMRA on pubs including the Barley Mow, St Albans; the Sun, Bloomsbury and David Bruce’s chain of Firkin pubs. A section on CAMRA’s Pub Preservation Group finishes with the compliment ‘... the idea of pub preservation ceased to be the preserve of anoraks and became very much mainstream thinking.’ Part 3 ‘Grand Designs’ chapters are ‘Irish Pub’, ‘Gastropub’ and ‘Superpub’ featuring Tim Martin and Wetherspoon’s. The Moon Under Water, Manchester, which opened in 1995, in a 1914 building originally a cinema, is the ‘superpub’ described in detail. The two chapters in Part 4 ‘Power to the People’ are ‘Community Pub:

Endangered Species’ and ‘Micropub: A Giant Leap for Pubkind?’ which mentions Martyn Hillier establishing the Butcher’s Arms micropub in Herne, Kent and his presentation to the 2009 CAMRA AGM, in Eastbourne, which sparked their growth. Later in 2009, Peter Morgan’s Rat Race Ale House at Hartlepool station was the second micropub to open. Peter is quoted in the book saying ‘I saw Martyn’s presentation and I went, right, I’m doing that.’ The pair’s inimitable and entertaining writing style makes 20th Century Pub an absorbng read. Handsomely designed by Dale Tomlinson and published by Joanna Copestick’s The Homewood Press, the paperback book includes comprehensive references and a useful index. Priced at £16.99, it is available from the CAMRA bookshop.

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Join us, and together we can protect the traditions of great British pubs and everything that goes with them. Become part of the CAMRA community today – enjoy discounted entry to beer festivals and exclusive member offers. Learn about brewing and beer and join like-minded people supporting our campaigns to save pubs, clubs, your pint and more.

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The Campaign for Real Ale West Berkshire

We were prompted to think about how do pubs smell by the recent tenth anniversary of the introduction of the ban on smoking in pubs. It’s funny how rarely the smell of pubs is discussed when it’s such an important part of the sensory experience, and capable of conveying so much. One of our favourite ever quotes is this from an essay by Adrian Bailey for Len Deighton’s 1967 London Dossier: “Before opening time there is a virgin aroma of freshness, an inimitable pub-perfume mixture of hops and malt, spirits and polish with perhaps a faint touch of violet-scented air-freshener. This is my boyhood nostalgia. Spilt ale, dried and sugar-sticky.” Over the years, we’ve noticed a few distinct ‘pub perfumes’. There’s the spore-laden waft of cold air from the cellar for example that, at the right dosage, seems to enhance the atmosphere; but, in excess, can be nauseating, suggesting damp and decay. Similarly, there’s the tang of stale beer soaked into old carpets that a certain type of down-to-earth old-school pub wears proudly, like a 1970s aftershave. There are a couple of pubs we can think of whose toilets are an intrusive presence, however many equally intrusive air fresheners are deployed, accompanied by meandering and thirsty fruit flies. This is never appealing. One of the most pleasant smells in a pub is that of an open fire — rustic and homely, a link to the past. Sometimes the customers contribute to the aroma with too much in the way of toiletries, or too little — a particular problem in the crush at the bar. Increasingly, vapers add unsubtle but not always unpleasant layers of cinnamon, vanilla, apple and so on. But, generally, most pubs these days smell almost neutral (deliberately perfuming pubs is frowned upon even as scented candles take over the world) thanks to rigorous cleaning regimes and fans designed to suck away the pong of the deep fat fryer. That’s probably better on the whole but, as is often the case, consistency can sweep away character along with the problems it was sent to fix.

Alec Latham was recently musing on the subject of the two-thirds pint measure [in his blog], which became legal in British pubs nearly six years ago, on 1 October 2011. At the time, I asked the question as to whether the ‘schooner’ would float or sink. In practice, it seems to have been very much the latter. While they have gained some traction in specialist craft beer bars, they’re virtually never seen in the wider pub trade. Significantly, Wetherspoons, who are often seen as a bellwether for the trade in general, haven’t adopted them. In most pubs, if you asked for two-thirds, you would get a funny look and a pained explanation that they didn’t serve them. Alec is quite right to make the point that a half never seems to quite give half as much satisfaction as a pint, and is often gone in much less than half the time. It’s just not a very appealing measure and, unless they’re doing it specifically so that they can taste more different beers, it’s rare to see blokes drinking halves in pubs. If they are, it’s usually something of a distress purchase triggered by lack of funds, lack of time or the fact they are driving. Ideally, they would prefer a pint. Obviously two-thirds measures make sense for the stronger beers that often feature in craft bars, where a pint may simply be too much. They are roughly in line with the 330 or 355ml bottles and cans that are popular for craft beers. But they also make sense for beers of more ordinary strength, where you just want ‘a glass of beer’, but a pint seems a bit too much, whereas a half comes across as a bit footling. One deterrent, of course, is that in order to serve two-thirds measures, you have to have the appropriate glassware. And, given the investment needed to cater for something for which there doesn’t seem to be much demand, most pubs understandably have chosen not to bother. The Curmudgeon column appears monthly in Opening Times, the CAMRA magazine published by Stockport & South Manchester branch. His other articles can be read at

We’re Boak and Bailey We’re geeks in general, but especially about beer and pubs. We write under the names Jessica Boak and Ray Bailey. We live in Bristol in the UK. We’ve been blogging about beer since 2007.

Ullage September - November 2017

Social Media @UllageBeer @WBCAMRA @BerkshirePubs @insidebeer @EDGENEWBURY

West Berkshire Campaign for Real Ale Inside Beer

Brimpton: Three Horseshoes

per half pint

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Pub Perfume


Memberseenjoy discounts at CAMRA beer festivals, Wetherspoon pubs ( * with voucher) and pubs below:


Two-thirds of the way there

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per pint Hungerford: John O’Gaunt Inn

Newbury: This pub offers CAMRA members a discount Catherine Wheel Cow & Cask Diamond Tap* Gun, Wash Common Hatchet Inn* King Charles Tavern Terms and conditions

Wickham: Five Bells

West Berkshire CAMRA member Jeff Evans is the beer writer behind the Inside Beer website. Updated daily, includes The Beer Buzz (news), Events & Festival listings and exclusive features. There are archives for Pub / Beer of the Month, including those below.

Jun: rose & Crown, Oxford Moor Old Freddy Walker Jul: Cornubia, Bristol Veltins Pilsener Aug: Hikers Bar, Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Great Langdale, Cumbria Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier

Eat Drink Great Events




West Berkshire Campaign for Real Ale Chairman: (Acting)

Richard Scullion Tel 07818 401795 (M)


Mike Avery Tel 01635 820481 (H) 2 Sutton Road, Speen, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 1UN


Alison Chetwynd

Membership: Andy Pinkard

Press Officer: Karen Bowen

Webmaster: Tony Girling

A multi-award winning classic bitter,

Pubs DB/ Kevin Brady Beer Surveys:

Good Old Boy is brewed with a blend of rich Maris Otter malted barley and fruity Bramling Cross and Northdown hops to produce an exceptionally well-balanced and full-flavoured beer.

Ullage Editorial:

Tim Thomas

Ullage Design:

Richard Lock



Local Trading Standards office: Tel 01635 519930 Facebook: West Berkshire Campaign for Real Ale

Beer Festival Diary CAMRA run or supported beer festivals provide excellent opportunities for sampling a wide range of real ales, from all over the UK and overseas. Here are some of the major and most accessible festivals for West Berkshire drinkers. 6-7 October Ascot Racecourse Beer Festival Ascot Racecourse, Ascot SL5 7JX West Berkshire Brewery & Shop, Flour Barn, Frilsham Home Farm, Yattendon, Berkshire, RG18 0XT. Opening Hours: Monday to Wednesday 9am – 5pm. Thursday to Friday 9am – 6pm. Saturday 10am – 4pm. Sunday Closed.

19-21 October Maidenhead Beer & Cider Festival Magnet Leisure Centre, Holmanleaze, Maidenhead SL6 8AW

Diary Dates 2017 The following is a list of all forthcoming meetings of the West Berkshire branch of CAMRA. Some are ‘social’ meetings, lively and friendly occasions where we enjoy a few beers; others are ‘branch’ meetings, which are slightly more formal and where we discuss beer and pubs issues. Unless stated, our meetings are open to all-comers – and new members are particularly welcome!

Saturday 9 September Newbury Real Ale Festival social 1, 3 & 5pm West Berkshire CAMRA stand

Saturday 7 October Ascot Racecourse Beer Festival 1pm Festival bar number 13/14 Check website for details

Saturday 4 November Windsor & Eton brewery & pubs Noon. Windsor & Eton Central station

Wednesday 13 September Branch Meeting Three Horseshoes, Brimpton RG7 4TL

Wednesday 11 October Branch meeting Rising Sun, Stockcross RG20 8LG

Wednesday 22 November Branch Meeting Downgate, Hungerford RG17 0ED

Tuesday 19 September Good Beer Guide 2018 launch Venue TBC 7.30pm Check website for details

w/c 16 October Cider social Check website for details

All meetings start at 8pm unless otherwise stated. Check our website for further details:

Ullage is published by the West Berkshire branch of the Campaign for Real Ale and is copyright of CAMRA. The opinions expressed in this publication are those of the contributor and are not necessarily endorsed by the Production Team or The Campaign for Real Ale. Every effort is made to ensure that the information contained in Ullage is correct, but the publishers accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions.


13-15 October 9th Hampshire’s OctoberFest Basingstoke Cricket & Sports Ground, Fairfields Road, Basingstoke RG21 3DR

26-28 October 20th Oxford Beer & Cider Festival Oxford Town Hall, St Aldate’s, Oxford OX1 1BX 26-28 October Swindon Beer Festival STEAM Museum, Fire Fly Avenue, Swindon SN2 2EY

Design | Print | Web

A unique mix of in house creative and print production 10a Arnhem Road Newbury RG14 5RU +44 (0)1635 43026 The Campaign for Real Ale West Berkshire

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