DRINKS
at half the price - persists. They have done such a great job
a good Chilean wine instead of classic European,” insists Erik
of publicising grapes such as Syrah and Chardonnay to an
Simonics, sommelier at the Savoy Hotel in London. “Chile
uncertain public that they have blinded many consumers to the
is a beautiful country offering high quality wines for very
delicate Pinot Gris or elegant Nebbiolos that different parts of
affordable prices. What I really like about Chile is the diversity
the Land Down Under also produce.
and the range of wines they are able to produce there, from
Malbec – the Cahors grape known, in its native France, as
light, crispy aromatic white wines to premium red wines;
Côt – has proved such an enormous success for Argentina, so
as well as some interesting dessert, sparkling and old vine
wonderful a combination to their equally wonderful steaks,
wines.” Because of this variety, he says, he is able to offer
and so easily comprehensible to a wary public overloaded with
Chilean alternatives to European classics such as Sancerre,
wine information, that the country is now struggling to talk
Riesling or even Bordeaux, and customers are rarely, if ever,
about its many other successes. Not only is their aromatic
disappointed.
white grape, Torrontés, a surprisingly good, fruity match for
Richard Lockstone, general manager of the Newcastle
spicier Asian dishes, the cooler-climate areas are producing
upon Tyne Malmaison hotel, is in complete agreement. He
more and more really good Cabernet Franc.
hosts wine dinners where guests are given the opportunity
Nobody wants to be put in a box – particularly not a long,
to compare countries or varieties and finds they are very
thin country with more and more patches of excellent vines.
surprised at the quality of the Chilean wines. “I sourced a
“We have old Semillon vines everywhere,” says Santiago
beautiful coastal Sauvignon Blanc from Koyle and every time
Mayorga, the young winemaker of Nieto Senetiner in Mendoza,
a guest who is a big New Zealand Sauvignon fan asks for
“and the Chardonnay we make now is fresh, citrus and acidic,
advice, I recommend this and it suddenly becomes their new
much less the heavier American style.” He is exploring cooler
favourite,” he says. “You can give people a blind tasting of
sub-sites in Mendoza county – Tupungato, Lujan de Cuyo –
a Bordeaux blend from the home country versus a Bordeaux
and alternative grapes, including Petit Verdot and Bonarda.
blend from Chile and they will not get the latter country
And he is in good company, from the much-lauded Susana
right,” although they will appreciate what they are drinking.
Balbo, whose Signature White Blend includes Torrontés,
It is not the common perception of what a South American
Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon; to Bodega Atamisque, who are
country has to offer, which is particularly ironic since
making a really excellent Pinot Noir in Tupungato.
Carmenère, Chile’s signature grape, is actually from Bordeaux.
“Argentinian Cabernet Franc can be really outstanding,”
Most of it was pulled out in France when the phylloxera
says Gino Nardella, who has been chief sommelier of the
louse destroyed the vineyards. It is a pernickety variety that
Stafford Hotel in London for nearly 40 years. “But yes,
dislikes too much rain, and the Bordelais found other red
sometimes it can be a difficult sell, because they have a lot of
grapes, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, much
interesting patches with great microclimates and that’s a lot
more amenable to their climate. “In Bordeaux, it often
of information for a customer to take on board.” Nonetheless
doesn’t mature enough,” says Nardella, “and ends up being
he feels it is worth the effort to explain to people who may
very aggressive, lean and mean, whereas in Chile you find
have heard of Mendoza but won’t know any of the more recent
good Carmenère that is very chocolate, with eucalyptus and
developments. “Some of these areas are so exciting. In Rio
geranium. It’s great with a barbecued sirloin.” He holds high-
Negro, they are planting Pinot Noir. It’s a real challenge. It’s is
end wine dinners in the Stafford’s beautiful cellars (said to be
a cooler area and it’s right at the beginning of Patagonia, but
the oldest private cellars in London) and says he gets a very
they are doing great things with these international varietals.”
good response to Chilean wines, including Carmenère and Petit
Chile, meanwhile, is an even more complex problem,
Verdot, which remains a minor Bordeaux grape, but “needs
because its reputation for cheap and cheerful wines, while
a semi-arid microclimate,” says Gino – much more Chilean
justified – Chile does make plenty of entry-level wine and
than south-west French. As for Merlot, “they are making some
has given Australia a run for its money in this sector – is far
great versions in Chile,” he says: he particularly likes those
too narrow. Persuading people to spend money on wine from
by Lapostolles, a vineyard founded by the French owners of
a place they perceive as downmarket may be the hardest task
Grand Marnier. It seems Bordeaux should look to its laurels.
a sommelier ever faces. The solution is probably to stare the
The sommelier’s challenge is to persuade hotel guests to take
problem down, by discussing the fact that ‘cheaper’ doesn’t
one more little journey, away from their assumptions; however
necessarily mean ‘less good’. “I find it relatively easy to offer
once there they tend, like most travellers, not to look back.