The Rig Out for Timberland Into the Trees When we were asked to do this project it seemed like it was meant to be. The more we thought about it, the more connections we made and the bigger the scale of the project became. It was natural for us to reach out to ournetwork of friends and artists to ask them to be involved. Everybody included in the project was a carefully considered decision made by the Rig Out with the help of Timberland. We knew that we wanted to use Beaverbrook as the location. Beaverbrook is a patch of land in upstate New York, situated near the Delaware River that borders Pennsylvania, not far from Barryville. It is home to a group of artists, musicians and web developers who collectively started the website www.cabinporn.com. As you may have guessed, the area is filled with the most amazing cabins built by the guys themselves. They come to Beaverbrook to relax, get out of the city, and become inspired. Noah Kalina once again collaborates with us on this project. Noah is an amazing guy whose dry wit betrays an artist’s deep soul (he will kill us for saying this). He needs no introduction as his work speaks for itself. We start the film in Noah’s Williamsburg studio and follow him from the city to the country where he picks up Mordechai Rubinstein (mrmort.com) before meeting the other guys at Beaverbrook. Here they help collect firewood and gather round for a celebration of friendship and camaraderie. We’ve known Mordechai for a number of years now and have been fans of his website and his overall aesthetic.
Mordechai keeps things real on a fundamental level. Only those that know the rules are allowed to break them and again he too needs no introduction. Finally, we were thrilled to have Mr. Gary Warnett holding down the writing duties for the zine part of the project. Gary’s knowledge of footwear borders on the extreme and his opinion is valued from brand to consumer. Another old friend that probably will never speak to us again after reading this… This project tells the Timberland story, and that of the three boots that they have chosen to remake—or reimagine. The Super 6", The Superboot and the World Hiker—updated only with advancements in technology that time has allowed. They also pay homage to Timberland’s 40 years on the footwear frontline. Overall, Into the Trees has been an amazing experience for the Rig Out and we think the project symbolizes the essence of Timberland—a coming together of people. Timberland is a brand that for 40 years has never ‘chased’ anything. It is a brand that has ploughed its own path and in doing so has allowed different people; artists, creatives, rugged outdoorsmen, paninari, rappers and hipsters to adopt its timeless products. It’s a brand that has transcended subcultures and fashion and with it the adage still remains… ‘Best then. Better now.’ The Rig Out Glenn Kitson & Antony Crook May 2013
BOOTCAMP “I be having baggy jeans, Timberland boots steel toe, I be getting biz, yo.” Mr. Cheeks, Lost Boyz ‘All Right’ Uniting a wide range of loyalists—from the aspirational everyman spending big on boots, to the old and new generations of hip-hop’s elite, and even builders in Timberland PRO® steel toe variations, Timberland’s got some tales to tell. If you’re hunting for some sub-cultural presence, plus mainstream penetration, this brand has it made. But here’s the thing—sometimes we don’t see the forest for the trees (a fitting cliché given the foliage in the Timberland logo). There’s a lot of history in and beyond those tan-coloured classics. In 1952, the brand started in Massachusetts as the Abington Shoe Company, and was tasked with doing the hard work for other brands to label as their own. Abington was sought after for their pioneering development of injection molding that changed footwear forever. A waterproof and stitch-free fusion of sole and upper would deliver superior performance for a hard-working audience who were
wearing their shoes in death serious situations. It wasn’t until 1973—40 years ago—that The Timberland® Yellow Boot was introduced as an Abington in-house brand. The Timberland® boot quickly became so popular and wildly successful that the Abington Shoe Company decided to change the name of their company to “Timberland”. Unaware of what they had created, the boot would remain a bestseller for the company for the next 40 years. The Timberland® line started with an 8" boot as the hero (the waterproof 8" style #10081 with a nonpadded collar) which might be the first Timberland® wheat mini-buck shoe ever. The original collection also featured a padded collar 8" boot (style #12281) and a 6" padded collar variant (iconic style #10061), which would become an urban staple for decades to come.
Sold alongside the 9-inch Wellington boot with its warm shearling lining (style #11297), the Outdoors Proof 6" and 8" boots were constructed for conditions of 20° below, with glove soft ® linings and premium leather, plus the Goodyear variants 8" PlioTuf-U lugged sole. By 1976, the were available in tan or green nubuck or a black smooth leather, while the padded collar 6" was available in wheat nubuck and brown smooth. Its emphasis on warmth meant a greater level of insulation was present than the inline editions of today’s model. By 1978, those boots (“A whole line of fine leather boots that cost plenty, and should”—according to their ad campaign at the time) had become extremely popular and were accompanied by a chukka boot as well as a few other silhouettes that were added to the line. In the early 1980s, the wheat workboot evolved to become a statement of cold weather style; increasingly, the boot was being worn by inner city dwellers in NYC and along the I-95 corridor. New York was a combat boot territory prior to that movement.
Meanwhile, other near-mythical releases trickled into the Timberland® range: if you were up on your rap lyrics, the infamous 40 Below might have been on your wish list. Under its real name, the Super Boot, the 40 Below was the pinnacle of boot design when it was originally released in 1979. Ten inches high, the lanky offspring of a tall work boot and a field boot dominated its siblings. It featured double insulation, a 4" garment leather collar, latex sealed multi row stitching, silicone impregnated Krymp Oxide leather, and a Vibram® yellow label sole. This was an advanced creation that united the combat boot aesthetic with Timberland D.N.A. Retailing at $160+ (and ultimately rising to ® twice the price of a #10061) the Timberland Super Boot remained in the range for several years. In a world where planned obsolescence is a norm, the nearly indestructible nature of the Super Boot made it the urban assault vehicle of the boot world. Meant to be warm enough for workers in colder climates to use like the #10061, it had other uses too.
of the Super Boot The escalating popularity late 1980s discovery resulted in Timberland’s boot’s business was the of that a large portion n the waterlogged in urban wear rather tha g sites it was created ldin environments and bui the audiences would find for. As the years passed, ir opinions of aesthetic the themselves diverse in en Timberland gave changes. For example, wh a matte finish after es the hardware on the sho that a blast of bling complaints from hunters the lifestyle audience g, sent their quarry runnin . wanted the flashy gleam reacted negatively. They ay, tod es tim n der mo Throughout the years to shoe—see Tupac Harlem has embraced this h-based hothead, oug Shakur in Juice as the bor ng out a pair to aki bre cky Ro AP Bishop, or A$ d flamboyance. hoo rep the new generation of lved again. In 1987, Then the Super Boot evo line gave the Super d aro Idit d the Timberlan ing in the shape of Boot a more expensive sibl re’s where it gets a He t. Boo er the Iditarod Sup Super Boots existed on little more complex: two ates on which is the deb to g the market, leadin “true” 40 Below.
The Iditarod Super Boot had the same Krymp leather (shrunken grain leather that’s water resistant) as the Original Super Boot, but the breathable waterproof lining and Thinsulate® insulation (the best on the market at the time) made it a shoe engineered for Alaskan outdoors workers. By testing it in those extreme 40° below conditions, its everyday functionality was perfected. Other alterations to the Iditarod edition were the rustproof NATO lacing system and chunkier Vibram® TURF-SAVER lug sole. It’s worth noting that the debate over a true 40 Below is further complicated by the existence of the equally resilient Super Guide Boot from the late 1980s, with its blend of conventional eyelets and D-rings. Just as North Face gooses were perfect for inner-city outdoor work, the Super Boot was the ultimate footwear for it too. Amidst the engineering of the Super Boot in the 1980s, Timberland also began manufacturing footwear for trail hiking. 1983’s 5" Waterproof Hiker, was a shoe ahead of its time with its incorporation of a GORE-TEX® lining. 1987 ushered in the waterproof GORE-TEX® fabric lined Sport Boots for ramblers and hunters. Lightweight and insulated, they were part of a rollout that pushed theTimberland aesthetic to
a different market, re-launching the mid-cut Waterproof Hiker in those hood classic “Beef and Broccoli” and “Mac and Cheese” makeups. Later renamed the Timberland® Field Boot, that design remains a bestseller with the urban audience today. 1989’s introduction of the Euro Hiker was aimed at delivering some sports footwear cues to the common boot style in order to capture the hybrid market of the time. Then, in 1994, every single Timberland learning thus far seemed to merge for the World Hiker series. If you’ve mastered the work boot, then surely you could turn your hand to serious hiking, right? For those fully entrenched in the Timberland cult, the 1994 debut of the World Hiker collection was significant. Co-created by an Italian designer in Montebelluna, Italy, fit and comfort were a priority in the series. The Up Country Plus Backpacker, Up Country Hiker, Front Country Hiker and Front Country Day Hiker all boastfully sat atop Italian-made 7.5mm rubber lug outsoles, but it was the full length contoured last and tooling on both Up Country designs that brought something completely new to the hiking market.
The pinnacle of the collection, the Up Country Plus Backpacker (often referred to as simply “The World Hiker”) was the hiker redefined: traditional elements like Europeansourced full-grain buck leather were complemented by a 3-layer footbed system for a definitive fit. A perforated, breathable leather orthotic sockliner, 3mm of Poron® microcellular foam and a Dri-Lex® fabric lining were added to ensure comfort. A rubber rand increased resilience and dual hinged flexing zones provided versatility without compromising support. After some expensive development time to the shoe, Timberland developed the ski boot influenced locking tongue that impressed the serious “peak baggers” far beyond the Alps that the boots were designed around. The sturdy sole and flexible upper, for unrestrained movement, made this World Hiker collection memorable— a big budget exploration into a marketplace where sloppy build is a
matter of life and death, where protection with freedom to move is a necessity. In this line, the familiar tree logo was replaced with an ambitious Elements of Design concept to represent what the boots would evade during wear: Wind, Water, Earth (representing abrasion resistance) and Sky (for the temperature sensitive part of the shoes). For 40 years, the wheat “buck” workboot has been a brand constant, representing Timberland everywhere from inner cities to rural countrysides. The Super Boot and World Hiker however, have been as tough to track down as they were originally built. Occasionally traded and discussed, glimpsed in rap videos from a debated golden era, discussed as colloquial nicknames and even named by product code, they’ve even been eulogized by some who used them for their intended purpose.
The Super Boot In response to the cult followin g of the 40 Below, the 40th Anniversary of The Original 速 Timberland Yellow Boot ush ers in a limited edition Timberland速 Super Boo t that brings back the Original Super Boo t with an updated 200 grams of PrimaLoft速 insu lation, heavy duty Highway Waterproof leat her upper, and a rugged Vibram速 132K lugged outsole. Packaged in a replica of the orig inal box, only 1,973 pairs will be availabl e worldwide.
The World Hiker Fans of the World Hiker have the opportunity to get a fresh pair for the first time since 1998. The boot conjures up the might of the original World Hiker Up Country Plus Backpacker, bringing back that fit, the contoured last and the finest materials on the market. The 2013 World Hiker has been updated with a durable Buckram Waterproof leatherupper and features the original Italian made Vibram速 1360 outsole. Also served up in collectors packaging, only 1,973 pairs will be available worldwide.
The Super 6" Boot It’s tough to build on the power of the 10061 workboot, but consider the white collared Super 6" as the wheat on steroids. Updating the original boot with 400 grams of PrimaLoft® insulation inside, it also includes a GORE-TEX® fabric lining to make it truly Outdoors Proof in line with the design’s intent. As a finishing touch, the classic sole is sourced by Vibram for this limited edition creation. In tribute to its birth year, only 1,973 pairs will be available worldwide.
The Rig Out for Timberland Into the Trees info@therigout www.therigout.com Creative Director: Glenn Kitson Photographer : Antony Crook Copy: Gary Warnett Design: Peter Cline Copy Editor: Mark Smith Illustration: Peter Oâ€™Toole