Modern Barber Magazine Issue 22

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ISSUE 22 APRIL - JUNE 2019 | £5 | www.modernbarber.co.uk

TAXING TIME Poor returns ON VAT and how to handle it Page 12

BLENDED BUSINESS

fusing fashion with barbershops Page 30

HATS OFF TO SERVICES

The rise of COLOUR SERVICES in the barbershop page 20



HAIR: MARLEY MAYER PHOTO: LIAM OAKES STEELE BARBER CO

GET IN TOUCH EDITOR AND PUBLISHER: Rachel Gould rachel@modernbarber.co.uk

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DESIGN AND PRODUCTION: Annie Bartley design@anniebartley.co.uk ADVERTISING: rachel@modernbarber.co.uk CONTRIBUTORS: Simon Shaw, Matthew Batham, Baldy. COVER CREDITS: Cover Credits: Cover Star: Jarred Liddington @jarredsbarbers. Assistant: Forrest Liddington. Photography: Point-Zero Photography @matt_point_zero FIND US ONLINE: modernbarber.co.uk SOCIAL: IG/Twitter @modernbarbermag, FB Modern Barber Magazine CALL ON: 01295 533755. For all online and print advertising and editorial enquiries, please contact rachel@modernbarber.co.uk Modern Barber Ltd is registered in the UK. Registration number: 06084337. VAT number: 178993237 Registered and correspondence address: Three Acre Barn, Thorpe Road, Upper Wardington, Oxon OX17 1SP. Subscriptions can be securely purchased through: modernbarber.co.uk/subscribe UK SUBSCRIPTIONS: 1 year, 4 issues £20 post paid. INTL SUBSCRIPTIONS: 1 year, 4 issues £40 post paid. Printed by Pensord Press Ltd. vwww.pensord.co.uk © Modern Barber Magazine accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no reponsibility can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without prior written permission from the publishers.

SHOPPING

CONTENTS ISSUE 22 | APRIL - JUNE 2019

NEWSROOM

4 SNIPPETS AND STORIES from in, around and on the industry.

16 INTERNATIONAL SHOP: Steele Barber Co, Seattle, USA. 20 THE COLOUR ISSUE: the barbers making a hue and cry about colour. 26 LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL: how to soothe and swerve carpal tunnel syndrome. 30 BLENDED BUSINESS: fusing fashion with barbershops.

42 18 PAGES of great looking man hair.

SOCIAL 62 WAHL APPRENTICE SHOOT COMPETITION: five apprentice winners hit the studio.

68 THE 10 MINUTE CHAT: Gianni Scumaci lets his roots show.

FEATURES 12 WHAT’S THE VALUE IN VAT?: making the move past the threshold.

PORTFOLIO

66 THE SHAW THING: home of Simon Shaw’s regular column.

10 WHAT’S OCCURRING at Barber Connect?

24 SHOP INSIDER: RW Wolf, London.

Modern Barber’s circulation has been independently audited and verified by the Audit Bureau of Circulations (abcstandards.org. uk) and reaches over 10,000 independent addresses.

TEETH WHITENING AT TAYPER & BALLA

38 STOREFRONT: Stuff you need and gear you want.

72 NO POACHING!: Baldy throws light on this poor practice.

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74 GOT BOTTLE: Courage Noble walks the talk on green credentials.

TOP TIPS 76 STEP-BY-STEP: Jim Williams with his classic afro hi top fade.

34 GROOM TO GROW: revenue beyond the hair services.

80 HOW TO: boss the perfect shapeup; support employees suffering poor mental health.

36 TECH ROUND-UP: tech that ticks boxes for barbers.

82 THE LIST: your go-to list for the brands that love barbers. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 3


MB:NEWS

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

MR. BARBERS ANNOUNCES MACMILLAN CANCER SUPPORT PARTNERSHIP

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WAHL MEN’S METHOD JOINS FORCES WITH INTERSERVE

nterserve Learning & Employment has launched the Wahl Men’s Method training programme, following its appointment as Wahl’s first certified UK training provider. Simon Shaw, Wahl UK’s Global Artistic Director says “The Men’s Method is the most elite training programme for barbers and men’s hairdressers in the UK and we only want to work with and accept the very, very best in terms of providers. We feel that Interserve has what it takes to join us and to deliver this exclusive programme as part of their barbering apprenticeship.” Amber Massey, ILE’s Head of Sector for Hair, Beauty & Barbering adds “Our training specialists will all be Wahl endorsed and benefit from ongoing CPD from Wahl’s Global Artistic Director, Simon Shaw. Having the Wahl Men’s Method 4 /WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“OUR TRAINING SPECIALISTS WILL ALL BE WAHL ENDORSED AND BENEFIT FROM ONGOING CPD FROM WAHL’S GLOBAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, SIMON SHAW.” Certificate in addition to an industry recognised apprenticeship will not only make the barbers of tomorrow more employable but set them up with the fundamental support and skills required to succeed in their careers.” www.learning-employment.com @interserveLE

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R. Barbers @mrbarbers Group has selected Macmillan Cancer Support as their chosen charity for a year of ongoing activity to raise funds for this worthy cause. As a business that now has over 25 shops it made perfect sense to organise group wide activity that will make a significant positive impact with fundraising for Macmillan. MR. Barbers Director Sam Prior says “Our brilliant barbers are proactive in charity work already so it made sense to pool resources and make a big impact for a worthy cause with a cross company campaign. We are also supporting Macmillan’s new ‘just say the word’ initiative which encourages men with cancer to take control of their health and seek the support they need.” Recent research from Macmillan shows that men are 22% more likely to get cancer than women but less than half as likely to contact the Macmillan Support Line. MR Barbers is aiming to raise over £26,000 which could pay for a Macmillan nurse for six months, helping people living with cancer and their families receive essential medical, practical and emotional support. Keep an eye on their social media for ways to donate.



MB:NEWS

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

EGERTON’S BARBERS IS SIMPLY THE BEST!

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ark Egerton of Egerton’s Barbers in Telford (FB Egerton’s Barbers Shropshire) took home the national trophy at ‘The Best Of’ Business Awards and the votes were all cast by his much loved and loyal customers. Mark who has a 5* rating on Google and Facebook received so many votes for his regional entry in ‘The Best Of Telford’ competition that it took him all the way through to a national win in his category. Mark Luckman who runs the regional business awards for the area says “We run an ongoing campaign to uncover the community businesses that customers

HEADS UP! DATES FOR THE DIARY 6 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“WE RUN AN ONGOING CAMPAIGN TO UNCOVER THE COMMUNITY BUSINESSES THAT CUSTOMERS ARE RAVING ABOUT.” are raving about. There are categories for everything from dentists to legal services and of course barbers. Word-of-mouth is huge in building a business, so getting local recognition like this and a great certificate for the wall of the shop can only strengthen that. Well done to Egerton’s Barbers.”

19TH/20TH MAY, BARBER UK, NEC BIRMINGHAM BARBERUKSHOW.COM, WHICH INCLUDES BRITAIN’S BEST BARBER COMPETITION HOSTED BY BARBERCOMP.COM 2ND/3RD JUNE, BARBER CONNECT, INTERNATIONAL CENTRE TELFORD BARBERCONNECT.CO.UK

TEAM CHALLENGE FROM ANDY’S BARBERS

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ancy a game of footy? Andy’s Barber Shop @andysbarbers_ bicester is looking for friendly matches against other barber shop teams. Owner Andy Willis loves his football and is a huge fan of Oxford United, he even counts some of the players as customers. A few years back he put together a friendly team of barbers and customers, “We’ve had some great games over the years playing local clubs but I thought it’d be great to see if there are other barbershops out there in the UK with a team, or just fancy getting one together for a match. If anyone is interested just send us an email info@andysbarbers. biz,” says Andy.

5TH- 7TH OCTOBER, SALON INTERNATIONAL, EXCEL LONDON SALONEXHIBITIONS.CO.UK 13TH – 14TH OCTOBER, HJ LIVE, EVENT CITY MANCHESTER SALON EXHIBITIONS.CO.UK


PS_Fade_Out_No_Shows_PRINT.pdf 1 27/02/2019 16:12:08

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MB:NEWS GEMMA WILLOCK-SMITH UK ALL-STAR CHALLENGE WINNER

CHRIS O’RIORDAN IRELAND ALL-STAR CHALLENGE WINNER

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

MENSPIRE HOLDS COMPANY ANNUAL CELEBRATION

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ANNOUNCED: AMERICAN CREW ALL-STAR CHALLENGE WINNERS UK & IRELAND

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arch 2019, London: ALL-STAR Challenge is the biggest global men’s hair competition and this year was a stellar year for the brand as it celebrates its 25th Anniversary. There were hundreds of entries judged over a full day of deliberation by five judges. Entries are unnamed for judging and every image is allocated marks for eight separate criteria before the totals are totted up. The 23 finalists for UK & Ireland gathered to hear the results at The Curtain Hotel in Shoreditch in March. The atmosphere was electric as the finalists gathered on stage for their moment in the spotlight. Surrounded by barbers and industry influencers, American Crew (@ameriancrewuk) took a moment to celebrate all of UK & Ireland finalists before announcing Gemma Willock-Smith @gws_barber from Frequency Barber for UK winner and Chris O’Riordan @chrisoriordanhair of Sean Taaffe Group for Ireland. Runners up included: Kieran Evans, Jacks of London for UK and Barry Kieran of Signature Hair for Ireland. 8 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“ABSOLUTELY OVER THE MOON. LAST YEAR I WON AND THE COMPETITION WAS SO TOUGH, TO DO IT AGAIN THIS YEAR… WELL I JUST CAN’T BELIEVE IT. I COULDN’T ASK FOR MORE.” Gemma says “I can’t explain it in words, I am so overwhelmed it feels incredible. It just hasn’t sunk in, I am so excited! ”Chris says “Absolutely over the moon. Last year I won and the competition was so tough, to do it again this year…well I just can’t believe it. I couldn’t ask for more.” These two country winners now go on to the next round of selection where the 15 best images from across the globe are chosen to compete in the Global All-Star Final held in New York in May. American Crew says a big thank you to everyone that invested their time and talent to compete in ALL-STAR Challenge.

hat better way to recognise great team performers and celebrate success for a growing barber brand than holding their own annual celebration? MENSPIRE @menspiresalon did just that with an evening event last January with their dedicated staff, plus family and friends. This year was the first year that the business has grown to need an outside venue and founders Josh Lamonaca and Sam Palmer planned an inspirational event at ‘The Barn’ in StAlbans with model presentations from the artistic team and an insightful Q&A from the Director’s. The presentations kicked off with the announcement that Charlie Gray @charliegray248 had been made International Creative Director. CONGRATULATIONS TO EVERYONE THAT RECEIVED AN ACCOLADE: ST. ALBANS Stylist of the Year: Mij Rahman Most Improved: Solomon Mendez Manager’s Choice: Eoghan Murphy RADLETT Stylist of the Year: Luca Belviso Most Improved: Brett Telford Manager’s Choice: Sean Moore DUBLIN Stylist of the Year: Craig Murtagh Most Improved: Dillon Field Manager’s Choice: Coby Sheridon


N E W Apollo 2 Icon with Classic heelrest: head to heel forever iconic.


MB:NEWS

BARBER CONNECT 2019

Make a date with the biggest weekend of the barbering calendar on 2nd to 3rd June at Telford International Centre by booking your FREE tickets at barberconnect.co.uk.

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FREE ENTRY FREE EDUCA TIO FREE PARKIN N G

tock up on new kit, scout for products, soak up all the FREE education on offer, network and catch up with old friends. Barber Connect is now in its seventh year and remains the only dedicated barber exhibition in the UK. MB has had word that there will be plenty of special show offers, bundle prices and bargains available for savvy shoppers plus exclusive launches from big brands including the Babyliss Foil Shaver. Headline sponsors are: Wahl, Jack Dean, Clubman Pinaud and Barber Blades. The two huge stages – The Wahl Stage and the International Stage from Clubman Pinaud will be packed with talent sharing their skills including the Wahl Artistic Team and special guests, Matty Conrad from Victory Brand and

Barber, Menspire, Spaghettis Italy and much more PLUS many exhibitors will be showcasing their brands through live demos. Don’t forget to book your hotel room as you won’t want to miss the Sunday night special event that Clubman Pinauld has in store for you.

“IF YOU WANT TO BE AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF THE INDUSTRY WHY WOULDN’T YOU ATTEND BARBER CONNECT. THIS SHOW IS AWESOME! THE LARGEST BARBERING SHOW IN THE WORLD!” HASSAN DEMARCO, CLUBMAN PINAUD Exhibitor stands to watch out for: Wahl, Andis, Takara Belmont, The Bluebeards Revenge, Edwin Jagger, NHF and many more.

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag 10 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK


#theOriginal

sales@rem.co.uk +44 1282 619977

The Emperor conceived and designed in the UK by REM See the collection at rem.co.uk


M B : F E AT U R E S

WHAT’S THE VALUE IN VAT?

Making the jump to register for VAT can be a painful process for labour intensive businesses like barbershops. MB talked to barbers and experts on the key challenges and options for tackling them. 12 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

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AT is the third largest source of revenue for the UK Government and can be the biggest bugbear for the nation’s small businesses. Charging VAT for labour intensive service businesses feels like a levy on success. Phil Townend (FB Phil Townend) who owns Philip

Nicholas in Pudsey reached the £85k VAT barrier and registered in April 2018. The impact has been painful for him personally and professionally. “I registered for standard VAT at 20% and put up the price of a haircut to £17. I lost some clients as a consequence. It has wiped out all of my savings and I am expecting to have to set up a payment plan for my next bill. My turnover has reduced, so we are hoping



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“THE PROBLEM IS, THE MORE YOU MAKE, THE LESS WELL-OFF YOU BECOME. THE MONEY I WAS PAYING MYSELF EFFECTIVELY GOT RE-ALLOCATED TO VAT. SO I WAS WORKING TO PAY MY STAFF WHO ARE ALL PAYE AND PAY THE VAT AND NOT MYSELF. I WOULD RECOMMEND GOING VAT’ABLE IF SOMEONE HAS VERY HIGH RETAIL SALES. YOU ULTIMATELY NEED TO GET FROM £85K TO £120K VERY QUICKLY” to de-register. The problem is, the more you make, the less well-off you become. The money I was paying myself effectively got re-allocated to VAT. So I was working to pay my staff who are all PAYE and pay the VAT and not myself. I would recommend going VAT’able if someone has very high retail sales. You ultimately need to get from £85K to £120K very quickly.” Even big barber businesses like The Barbershop Group @thebarbershopgroup still struggle with elements of VAT. Owner Karen Waldron pays an astronomical £1.2m quarterly VAT bill on her busy shops and struggles to see why VAT is applicable to children’s haircuts when kids are typically VAT free for everything. The business charges £16.50 for a standard cut and £10.50 for a discounted kids cut which equates to £8.40 after VAT. Karen says “On the days before going back to school after the holidays, children can be half of a shops customers. It means that after tax the revenue doesn’t cover the cost. At weekends we can’t justify discounted cuts. Everything to do with a child’s education and uniform is VAT free and schools require their kids to look smart, so why charge VAT on a child’s haircut?” 14 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

MB spoke to barbershop accountant and tax specialist Andrew Barraclough of Salonfrog (salonfrog. com) and business coach Carl Hinder of Salon-help (salon-help. co.uk) to uncover the advice they offer when facing VAT challenges. Andrew says “A lot of businesses avoid VAT by keeping artificially under the £85k threshold but over time inflation will take many over regardless. Often barber businesses suddenly find themselves nudging the barrier with no plan. They are facing taking the hit themselves or suddenly making the customer absorb the difference. I recommend an early approach...a long term plan way before a business gets to that point because staying under the barrier means a business can be selflimiting and stagnate very quickly”. Starting with the end in mind allows barbershop businesses to be considered in their approach to the threshold. Andrew explains “Getting all the ducks in a row ahead of registering makes sense. Look at a commercial plan and think about the capacity in the shop. So have the open chairs and the barbers lined up and the marketing in place to smash through it. Just nudging through to £90k delivers no value and will not benefit the business.” Business coach Carl Hinder believes that embracing the VAT threshold is the best mindset to grow a business, especially in affluent areas where the business can clearly support it. “The initial problem comes from the fact that there is no phasing in of the threshold and so it feels as if a barbershop owner has a reduction in sales of 20% over night or has to achieve a jump of 17k to £102,000 just to stay still,” explains Carl. “As with most service heavy industries that £85 - £102k is a hard transition but I believe barbershops should embrace it because once they pass the £150k mark it has very little operating effect on the business. The way businesses should see it is, the more tax they are paying the better they must be doing. The 13% flat rate scheme can often be a good way to transition but the temporary nature and the restrictions often mean that there is very little difference in the final amount collected and therefore has the same impact on the industry.”

Business coach Carl Hinder of Salon-help (salon-help. co.uk) shares his tips.

CARL’S VAT ‘DON’T’S’ DON’T TAKE THE VAT HIT. Don’t take less money home and get stressed and eventually de-register or close. DON’T PRETEND THAT VAT DOESN’T EXIST. Don’t declare card payments and some cash but only declare sales up to the threshold. Highly illegal and for that reason the barber doesn’t even inform their accountant on how the business truly operates. Genuine barbershops cannot compete against rogue barbershops. DON’T TRY TO SPLIT THE BUSINESS INTO DIFFERENT COMPANIES. A common one is to split hair services and retailing to keep both under the VAT threshold. This can attract the attention of HMRC. DON’T ENGAGE A SELF-EMPLOYED PERSON, USUALLY BASED ON A PERCENTAGE SPLIT OR SALES AND THEN TREAT THEM LIKE THEY ARE EMPLOYED. Half of the money is VAT’able BUT the shop owner then treats the barber like staff, controlling their hours, holidays, prices and even training without paying them for holidays, sickness, maternity, pensions, or national insurance, which is all illegal.

CARL’S VAT ‘DO’S’ DO CHARGE THE VAT inclusive price from the first day of opening. DO REALISE THAT THE THRESHOLD IS HEADING YOUR WAY well in advance. DO INCREASE PRICES by around 10% if it is not already built in. DO INCREASE RETAILING levels to a planned 40% of foot flow. DO INTRODUCE HIGH VALUE SERVICES like luxury shaving and hair replacement systems. DO MARKET THE BUSINESS and target the business for 200k turnover. DO FOCUS ON SALES GROWTH, like your business depends upon it, because it really does.



STEELE BARBER CO SEATTLE, USA There’s a whole world of barbering out there, so every issue we bring you a little international insight.


FACTOIDS OWNERS: Victoria and Matt Humphrey OPENED: December 2017 STAFF: 10 barbers CLIENTS: Construction folks, firemen, urban professional tech boomers, students, faculty professors, neighbourhood residents. Everyone is welcome. APPOINTMENTS OR WALK-INS: Big on appointments, customers love the online booking. Walk-ins welcome. PRICE: Cut from $30 (£22.50). Signature shave $45 (£34.00). Combo’s available. RANDOM: The owner’s obsession with Land Rover cars inspired the shop interior and details in the decoration. MUST SEE: IG and FB @steelebarberseattle. Web steelebarber.com


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rom the get go Matt Humphrey wanted Steele Barber Co to set a new normal on service and environment for high end men’s grooming. He had the background, the contacts and the vision which have combined to deliver results for Steele’s customers and its valued team. Matt is a former AVEDA executive with a backstory in supporting the expansion of the brand into high tier barbershops. “I loved the idea of creating something that could redefine the tradition of going to the barbershop for the modern man, so when I purchased the first AVEDA Salon and Spa in Seattle, I immediately acquired the space next door to create Steele Barber,” explains Matt. The team is a blend of men’s grooming industry vets and new talent and all are employed and supported with in-house training. Matt’s greatest challenge was recruiting the right people to deliver the standards and service required to command an $80 plus price and share Steele Barber Co’s vision. Matt says “Right now local government is taking a hard look at independent contractors or booth rentals versus commission operations like mine, as it pertains to fair taxation. I pay a good deal of taxes, benefits and wages compared to the owner of a booth rental outfit that doesn’t. I also offer paid education, higher than minimum wage, higher than market commissions and health care benefits even though I’m not required to with the size of my company. It’s a heated debate and rife with conflict with all those who rent. I’ve taken the road of creating a place where the benefits of compensation and ongoing education outweigh the lure of independent contracting. We’re also experiencing an assault on licensure and industry deregulation at a national level which I find frightening. We have chosen to go deep into education and service delivery 18 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK


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standards with an emerging group called thegroomingcollective. com. It’s a unique education and business focused group set up by men’s grooming industry icon Kurt Kueffner who is also a former colleague at AVEDA. It’s a collective of schools, shops, educators and men’s grooming specialists. We are working together to lay down a growth plan to elevate the prestige men’s business.”

like the grill on the Series One Land Rover. The little details the guests enjoy are the simple touches like a custom leather caddy to hold your wallet, phone and keys. We offer a complimentary glass of local micro brewed beer on tap, or a glass of local whiskey or bourbon in a vintage Ralph Lauren Glen Plaid Crystal glass with a matching Crystal Decanter. We also have our guests change into Steele Barber t-shirts, so they don’t get hair shards on their clothes,” enthuses Matt. The customer feedback is glowing and the shop has been thoroughly embraced into the community not least for its support of local charitable causes. The team works to raise funds for firefighters, forest rangers and EMT’s as well as the Chicken Soup Brigade which offers free food to people too sick to feed themselves. Steele Barber Co shows that by thinking big they are delivering the premium details and doing it style!

“WE HAVE CHOSEN TO GO DEEP INTO EDUCATION AND SERVICE DELIVERY STANDARDS WITH AN EMERGING GROUP CALLED THEGROOMINGCOLLECTIVE.COM.”

For the premium look and feel of Steele Barber Co, Matt took inspiration from Land Rover. “I’m kind of a nut about those vehicles. Like Land Rover I wanted the shop to be very capable, luxurious but without pretence. The seating is designed with a gentlemen in mind…like the sofa which can actually fit a man with a 32” inseam like myself. The barber chairs were selected as they are similar to the late 90’s, early 2000 full size Rovers. The metal screen separating the service area was custom made to look

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M B : F E AT U R E HAIR: JARRED LIDDINGTON

THE COLOUR ISSUE

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Barbershops are all about customer centred service, so when an increasing number of men want to bring a little colour into their life. How do you handle it?

n a recent social media poll MB asked ‘Does your barbershop offer colour services?’ and 27% of respondents said ‘Yes’! A growing number of shops are either inspiring their customers to try colour or meeting the rising demand from clients picking up on trends from their peers and the media. High lift tints, pop colours, peroxide, slices, lights, flashes and all over colour changes are all on the menu. Naturals and grey coverage are still where it’s at for the more mature client or those in white collar professions but anything goes for younger customers. MB’s cover star Jarred Liddington @jarredsbarbers of Jarreds Barbers in Lydney, leads by example and frequently colours his own hair…from acid green to bleach blonde and everything in between…customers caught on quickly and now around 15% of his customers have colour. “When we first opened only around 5% of our customers had colour services but the more work we 20 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

HAIR: TOM BAXTER

did, the more we got, as word-of-mouth has spread. Our work now ranges from all over brights to highlights or flashes. I had a basic knowledge of colour from my early start in hairdressing but it was really out of self-interest and experimenting with my own hair that allowed me to grow that service. It adds a creative dimension

to a cut and gives customers another way to express their look. When I planned the shop, I planned a backwash with colour in mind. Prices start from £5 for a single foil packet to add a flash of colour, up to £40 for a full bleach and tone service,” explains Jarred. The main challenge Jarred finds with offering a colour service is managing the time in the chair, so he tends to funnel his colour clients to the early part of the week to avoid the more manic days. Colour can deliver profitable returns that help build revenue and boost the bottom line. Robert John Grosvenor (FB Robert John Grosvenor) runs a unisex business and his barbershop has been offering men’s colour for 10 years. Approximately 20% of his customers purchase colour services. Robert says “The male colouring sector is continuously growing. I would say most male colouring is to enhance the


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TOM BAXTER’S WISDOM ON COLOUR WORK

HAIR: JARRED LIDDINGTON

HAIR: JARRED LIDDINGTON

HAIR: TOM BAXTER

Tom Baxter @tombaxter_hair has a strong colour clientele and showcases colour in his stage work and social media. Here he shares his thoughts on how to get the best out of colour. • When starting out with colour a lot of factors must be taken into consideration…clients skin type, eye colour and underlying tone…all these factors play a part in the end result.

“WHEN WE FIRST OPENED ONLY AROUND 5% OF OUR CUSTOMERS HAD COLOUR SERVICES BUT THE MORE WORK WE DID, THE MORE WE GOT.” natural hair colour. We use a great colour to cover greys that only takes five minutes. I do feel if you are going to use colour in your barbershop you need to make sure you have the correct training and follow all the health and safety requirements. I’m always offering my staff up-to-date training courses on colouring. I love using and experimenting with new colours! I believe offering colouring in the barbering sector is a great way to show off your creativity and increase your business

turn over.” Robert loves the Milkshake range and OSMO for creative colours and makes sure that he uses a bond building treatment like Olaplex when lightening hair to protect the condition. His focus on training doesn’t just protect a customer’s hair, it also protects the overall health and wellbeing of both customer and barber. As a chemical process colour services come with strict health and safety guidelines that should never be contravened. Mike Taylor of the Great British Barbering Academy @gbbarberacademy says “There is debate about adding colour as a compulsory module in the new government T Levels for apprentices. It’s a great service but in my opinion we should protect our core barber services for people entering the industry. Cutting, shaving and life skills will be what gives young people the best start and employers the best staff. Private courses and those run by colour companies like Wella are the best place to add that skill when barbers have nailed the basics.”

• Important! Clients must be skin tested 48 hours before the service to ensure that there are no allergic reactions - this is done by mixing product and applying direct to the skin behind the ear or on the forearm. The client can leave the shop and the product can be rinsed off after a minimum of 30 minutes. If the skin shows any signs of irritation or the client experiences any adverse effects then do not proceed with any kind of colour service. • Learning how to choose and apply the right colour to get the right result is important. Mixing paints is a good way to learn how colours react together and neutralise each other. Look at the ‘Colour Wheel’ to show how tones balance and interact. Remembering the acronym ‘Richard Of York Gave Battle In Vain’ gives you the seven key colours of the wheel in order ‘Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet.’ Tones that are opposite each other on the wheel neutralise one another. So for example when giving a customer a clean silver grey, you need to lift the hair with peroxide and check for any warmth left. Your underlying tone Continued on page 22 WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 21


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HAIR: TOM BAXTER

“WHEN ADDING PEROXIDE DOWN TO THE SCALP A 6% VOLUME IS ENOUGH. ANYTHING HIGHER WILL BURN THE SCALP AND SHATTER THE CUTICLE, COMPROMISING THE HAIR.” will be yellow or pale yellow, so adding violet to that harsh tone will neutralise the colour giving you a clean base. If this is not done and you were to add silver which has a blue base and add it straight to your underlying tone which is yellow, the result will deliver a green tinge. Make sure you understand the underlying tone and how colours work together to give a solid base.

INSPIRATION ON PRODUCTS FUDGE PROFESSIONAL CLEAN BLONDE SPEED+ VIOLET LUXE LIGHTENER: an amazing 7 levels of lift for lightening bright blondes with a tingle-free, fumefree powder formula that adds conditioning too.

PAPER NOT FOIL: an eco-friendly alternative to foils made from industrial waste from the construction industry. Recyclable and compostable. Available in two sizes.

FUDGE HEAD PAINT GEL TONERS: iridescent, metallic tones for a little added extra.

AMERICAN CREW PRECISION BLEND NATURAL GREY COVERAGE: no drip easy-toapply formula that acts fast in 5 minutes for great toneon-tone coverage. Available in Light, Medium Natural, Brown and Dark.

WELLAPLEX STRENGTHENING TREATMENT: reconstructs inner hair bonds for stronger hair and better lifting results. Available as a three step process. Bond Maker, Bond Stabilizer, Hair Stabilizer for home care post colour service.

ALTER EGO PH CHANGER: a unique additive formula that transforms the ph of oxidative colours and works with the Alter EGO range to transform colours from demipermanent to permanent, saving space and cost.

OSMO COLOR PSYCHO: semipermanent hair colour cream in 14 high impact shades. Readyto-use formula ammonia and peroxide free and even conditions hair as the vibrant colour is deposited. Lasts up to six weeks.

NEW OSMO SUPER SILVER NO YELLOW MASK: hydrating, sulphate free treatment mask, infused with super violet pigments, replenishes lost moisture and helps neutralise yellow tones.

FUDGE HEAD PAINT BLONDE: a range of blondes from cool champagne to ash with 100% grey coverate that stay vibrant through 30 washes.

• When adding peroxide down to the scalp a 6% volume is enough. Anything higher will burn the scalp and shatter the cuticle, compromising the hair. • Adding colour in the right places will add definition and texture and allow the light to create the illusion of movement. Colour can transform a look from a stationary state and a bland silhouette to add texture and individuality. • Colour delivers good returns. You can turn a £25 haircut into a £90 service for just one client and work in between the colour process to make money cutting while the colour is processing. 22 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK


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BY AMERICAN CREW

COMING SOON

MATTE FINISH

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SHOP INSIDER Barbershops are hang outs, hubs and of course the best hair destinations‌so take a peek inside this one.


F E AT U R E : M B

RW WOLF: 14 HEDDON COURT PARADE, COCKFOSTERS ROAD, BARNET, EN4 0DB

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WNER: The Wolf SOCIAL: IG and FB @RWWOLFBARBERS OPENED: Late 2018 TEAM: 15 master craftsmen trained by the sharpest in town. TIMEFRAME: Approximately six months due to the level of detail demanded to offer the full RW Wolf experience. BUDGET: In the ballpark of 350K – RW Wolf believes if a shop is worth building, it’s worth building it well. The Wolf is an ‘all or nothing’ kind of leader. A lot of time, effort and of course money was poured into the barbering stations and the chairs. The comfort of luxurious surroundings and a plush, lavish seat are crucial elements. RW Wolf also wanted lots of space between the chairs, eradicating any claustrophobia and granting guests their own personal space to relax. BRIEF: A bold, unique space which guests can enjoy spending time in as much as having a service or treatment. A masculine interior perfectly suited to the modern gentleman who appreciates the finer things in life. The inspiration was the Wolf and based on his preferences and his story, blending elements of a classic barbershop with a unique personality. The shop was created to serve the gentleman that values his appearance, appreciates sophistication and likes to be treated. WHAT’S UNIQUE: The lounge element of the shop is very different from the usual waiting areas in barbershops. RW Wolf feels like a place you would come to unwind and enjoy a tipple, in addition to getting your hair cut and styled. The raw brickwork, dark timber and graffiti feature in the shop all give the space a unique personality and a home away from home ambience. It’s ‘the way of the Wolf’. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 25


M B : F E AT U R E

LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL By Matthew Batham

Carpal tunnel syndrome can be a career killer: here MB uncovers the ways in which busy barbers have managed and avoided the pain.

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SI is an umbrella term for a host of nasty, painful conditions including carpal tunnel syndrome (CTS). CTS affects many barbers and is caused by repetitive strain on the wrist. Paul Simmons (@forever_wahl) is a barbershop owner, founder of the Barber Bible (@barberbible) online community and author of a new book by the same name, he explains what CTS is and why it affects so many barbers. “Carpal tunnel syndrome is something everyone dreads” says Paul. “The carpal tunnel is formed by the ligament that connects the wrist to the carpal bones in the hand. A nerve known as the median travels through the tunnel to the thumb and hand muscles. Also through this tiny tunnel run tendons that work to flex the wrist and fingers. Often due to improper handling of scissors, this tunnel can become compressed, pinching the nerve and tendons and causing severe pain.” 26 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK


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M B : F E AT U R E

“I CONSTANTLY FELT PINS AND NEEDLES AND NUMBNESS IN MY THUMB AND THE FIRST THREE FINGERS ON MY RIGHT HAND. I HAD TO KEEP STOPPING MID CUT TO SHAKE OUT MY ARM AND MAKE A FIST TO ALLEVIATE THE PAIN.” Recognising the symptoms of CTS early and seeking help can be critical to curtailing the condition before it becomes too painful. The main symptoms every barber should look out for include: 1. PAIN, ACHING OR TINGLING IN THE HAND OR ARM. 2. NUMBNESS IN THE WHOLE HAND OR SOMETIMES JUST THE THUMB AND RING FINGER. 3. WEAKNESS IN THE THUMB. 4. DIFFICULTY GRIPPING. 5. SEVERE DISCOMFORT IN THE WRIST JOINT. If you are worried you may have CTS, go to your GP as soon as possible. Solutions might include: wearing a resting splint on the hand at night, when symptoms are often most painful; steroid injections to reduce inflammation; hand and wrist exercises. Your GP may also suggest taking anti-inflammatory medication such as ibuprofen. In severe cases, surgery may be necessary. Mike Joines, director of Zoom Barbers of Distinction in Havant, near Portsmouth (FB Mike Zoom Joines) started experiencing signs of CTS in the late 80’s, about 10 years into his career. “I would get what felt like electric shocks through my thumb and wrist,” he recalls. “This later became pins and needles and I would regularly wake up in the night with a numb arm.” Mike was advised to have an operation to resolve the problem but this would have meant taking six weeks off work. As a freelance barber at the time, that meant six weeks without pay, so he declined the operation. Instead he managed the pain by wearing a splint at night and by regularly flexing his wrists and fingers throughout the working day. He also tried to use both hands for other tasks, 28 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

including DIY, so that pressure wasn’t constantly being put on the same hand and wrist. At age 57, Mike is still working as a barber and says the condition is under control. Gillian Clarke, owner of Gillian’s Barber Shop, Belfast (FB Gillian Clarke) found rubbing a cooling agent such as Deep Freeze into her arm helped ease symptoms when CTS began to affect her around six years ago. Her GP also recommended wearing wrist splints at night and Gillian has had steroid injections in her arm every two years to manage the condition. Gillian says “I am still barbering but I use clippers as often as possible as continuous use of scissors does not help this condition.” Keith Dewhurst of The Barbers of Windermere (FB Keith Dewhurst), first noticed symptoms of CTS just two years after he started barbering. “I constantly felt pins and needles and numbness in my thumb and the first three fingers on my right hand. I had to keep stopping mid cut to shake out my arm and make a fist to alleviate the pain. My wrist position while holding scissors made it a lot worse, especially when cutting the top of the head section as your wrist is cocked.” Regular steroid injections and wearing a wrist brace at night helped control the problem but eventually Keith opted for surgery and the relief was instant. Being self-employed at the time, however, Keith was back at work just three weeks after the operation instead of the recommended six. For the first few weeks back he wasn’t able to grip his scissors adequately. “I got by, by learning a clipper-over-fingers technique. A system I still use today to give my wrist a rest. I highly recommended it to everyone!” says Keith. While CTS and other forms of RSI are a painful downside to barbering, these case studies show that there really is light at the end of the tunnel.

THESE SITES OFFER TIPS ON EXERCISES! WWW.HEALTHLINE.COM/HEALTH/CARPAL-TUNNELWRIST-EXERCISES#THESHAKE WWW.WEBMD.COM/PAIN-MANAGEMENT/ EXERCISES-CARPAL-TUNNEL-SYNDROME#1

HELPFUL HINTS Paul Simmons advocates great scissor choice and use: Scissor companies spend a lot of time designing scissors that ergonomically fit the hand. Your thumb should go through the hole on the shorter shank of the scissor no further than the tip. The ring finger goes into the hole on the longer shank of the scissor. The tension screw should be facing the ceiling. While cutting, stand with feet, shoulders and head in line with a slight bend in the knee. Try out as many pairs as possible and get a feel for them, don’t be fooled into buying a small shank scissor that is too small for your hand. Keep your scissors sharp. Blunt scissors will contribute towards RSI because of the extra effort needed to cut.

THE NHF OFFERS THESE TIPS FOR AVOIDING AND MANAGING CTS: Take regular breaks in order to rest your hands. These breaks can also be used to carry out hand and wrist stretching exercises. Make more use of your non-dominant hand where possible. Switching between hands whilst carrying out one-handed tasks can allow you to rest your dominant hand without needing to stop work. Position your body properly when working to try to avoid repetitive stretching. Move around your client rather than reaching over them and use a looser grip on tools and objects where it is safe to do so.


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M B : F E AT U R E

Fashion and hair go hand-in-hand, so it makes sense that some barbershop businesses choose to team up.

BLENDED BUSINESS

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fresh cut and fresh creps both deliver that feel good factor, so why not get them in the same spot?! Barber businesses have found a home inside or alongside fashion and are giving customers a double destination to spend their cash. Ian Harrold owns Attitude Hair for Men (@attitudemenshair) which has two shops in Liverpool, one of which has been inside Topman since 2012. The two chair shop offers a wash and cut from £22.50 and is appointment only. Ian says “The concession store means that we are constantly visible to the store demographic of 16-35 year olds. It means we have a bigger brand awareness as people see the Attitude name in a big High Street store. The overheads are reduced, so it can be a cost effective way to open a store in the heart of the city.” Topman does set the opening times however, which means that Ian’s shop remains open 361 days a year – which can be quite a staffing challenge. Creating a brilliant concession barbershop was top of mind for Dan 30 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

RUFFIANS, INSIDE LIBERTY

ARNOLD & CO

Kean of Northern Barber Company (@dan.kean.hair). As a barber with experience of working in a London concession he knew the benefits and so when he headed home to Preston to open his first shop, he was soon scouting for a concession opportunity and found one in designer fashion

“THE CONCESSION STORE MEANS THAT WE ARE CONSTANTLY VISIBLE TO THE STORE DEMOGRAPHIC OF 1635 YEAR OLDS.” store Tessuti in Chester. “Modern men are time poor and look for every opportunity to streamline their lives. Being within a retail store enables Northern Barber Company to offer them the convenience they crave. It’s a onestop shop for men to come to look their best, both in the fashion and grooming


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M B : F E AT U R E

LIBERTY LONDON

RUFFIANS, INSIDE LIBERTY

the partner of the buyer charged with the final decision secret shopped our Marylebone store and loved it…he said we were the perfect match! He’s now a loyal Ruffian!” The barbershop attracts big hitters from fashion, business, music and the media but mostly it’s high-end store regulars and people seeking exceptional service and a great experience, all a good fit for Ruffians. Andrew believes the pros far outweigh the cons of concessions and a big tick comes from the fact that customers are already in a retail mindset when they step inside the barbershop, so not surprisingly Liberty is their best performing store on retail.

“WE SPENT THREE YEARS BUILDING OUR RUFFIANS FOOTPRINT IN LONDON. FIRST IN COVENT GARDEN, THEN MARYLEBONE AND LASTLY IN SHOREDITCH. IT WAS ON THE BACK OF THESE STORES THAT LIBERTY APPROACHED US TO PARTNER TOGETHER.” 32 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

stakes. The concession allowed us to expand in to a prestigious High Street location and cater to a new customer base,” explains Dan. Dan feels that the wins with concessions come with having an open and honest relationship with the host store and staying open minded and flexible when integrating the barbershop brand into the retail space. Aligning your brand with an aspirational store is the perfect way to pack a punch and add even greater sparkle to your rep. Well there’s aspirational and there’s iconic and Ruffians (@ruffians) went for iconic when they took up the opportunity to launch in Liberty London. Founder Andrew Cannon says “We spent three years building our Ruffians footprint in London. First in Covent Garden, then Marylebone and lastly in Shoreditch. It was on the back of these stores that Liberty approached us to partner together. The deal clincher was when

Arnold & Co Store in Sheffield (@arnoldandcostore) is the perfect fashion and hair team. Alex Mir is owner and designer of utility denim brand Forge Denim (@forgedenim) and his brother Adam Mir is a barber and past winner of American Crew All Star Challenge. The brothers, along with a silent partner found a handsome corner store location and set to work creating the ideal destination. The upstairs retail space offers Alex’s brand alongside curated ethical men’s clothing and accessories and downstairs is a busy barbershop. Arnold & Co does share a core clientele but equally attracts its own loyal customers that might come to shop or might come just for a cut. “It works really well. Each element of the business has its own identity but there is also mutual benefit. You do have to constantly remind customers about what’s available upstairs and we are working on cross promotions,” explains Alex. It just goes to show that you don’t have to blaze a lonely trail to have a successful barbershop business!


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In store


GROOM TO GROW M B : F E AT U R E

Leveraging your client base with services that they will love has to be a good thing, right? MB spoke to two shops that go beyond the barber chair to build revenue.

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18FOURTEEN

“TEETH WHITENING IS A POPULAR SERVICE AND ONE THAT WE COULD OPEN UP TO COUPLES. WE ARE LITERALLY PUTTING A SMILE ON OUR CUSTOMERS FACE.”

ome purists might believe that once you stray beyond the core cut and beard care services, then a barbers has become something other than a traditional barbershop. Great barbershops have always had the customer at the heart of all they do, which means that keeping the focus on the changing needs and wants of the modern customer doesn’t necessarily mean straying from the barbershop brief. A fresh demographic of men want additional grooming services but without the girly overtures. 18Fourteen in Stanmore, London (IG @18fourteen) was created out of the director’s own need to fill a gap in the market. Meera Versani and her partner Chandra launched 18Fourteen in 2016 and have built a busy barbershop and grooming destination that ticks 34 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

TEETH WHITENING AT TAYPER & BALLA

all the boxes for men interested in optimising their appearance. The grooming service list is comprehensive and yields approximately 60% of the shops revenue with the balance going to traditional hair and beard services. Meera says “We consider 18Fourteen to be a men’s sanctuary. There is a full range of barbering services along with manicures, pedicures, massage, facials, waxing and manscaping, laser hair removal and aesthetics in partnership


F E AT U R E : M B 18FOURTEEN

18FOURTEEN

treatment rooms and a dedicated nail and foot treatment area with armchairs, TV and gaming. The latest addition to the list is laser hair removal, a natural extension to the growing demand for waxing services. It’s 18Fourteen’s commitment to putting the customer first that has delivered healthy rewards for the business.

with a qualified aesthetics Doctor. Our grooming services have grown across the board. Manicures and pedicures are popular all year round as men begin to accept the idea of regular maintenance for optimal results. The same applies to our facials. In recent months however, facials have gained popularity with our clients, with more gents booking in.” Meera has ensured that all the services are carefully calibrated for the male clientele. The range includes Sports Therapy Massage at £75/60 mins, a mani/pedi combo at £60 and full upper body waxing including abdomen at £90. The shop environment reflects the services – a full barbershop, three

TEETH WHITENING AT TAYPER & BALLA

Spotting customer opportunities can happen even when the barber is the customer in question. A trip to Leamington Spa for teeth whitening was the inspiration behind adding the service to Tayper & Ballä (@tayper_ballä) in Coventry. The heritage building that houses the handsome shop had an upstairs level that was just begging to be used to leverage more revenue. Bally says “Teeth whitening is a popular service and one that we could open up to couples. We are literally putting a smile on our customers face. We work with local university students to offer photography days in the shop. Customers can come for teeth whitening and get a nice picture for their social media too. It’s grown fast by word-of-mouth. We’ve only been doing it a month and it won’t be long before we’ve got our investment back on the training and equipment,” says Bally. The shop charges £49.95 for single treatments and the equipment, products and training came from Hollywood Whitening. The area is all set up for comfort and customers can game or watch a movie while they kick back for their service. Who knows what new revenue streams might be waiting in the pockets of your customers? Tayper & Ballä Photography @luccaantonio_ WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 35


TECH ROUND-UP M B : F E AT U R E

Working smarter couldn’t be easier, here’s a look at the tech that can take the pain out of running a business.

In a recent survey completed by 399 UK barbers, 76% said that they had used technology to improve their business in the last year. Where there’s WIFI, there’s a way! If you are feeling pain with any of your business processes, then there’s probably an app for that.

GREAT FOR…TOTAL BARBERSHOP BUSINESS SOLUTIONS

SHORTCUTS BARBER – cloud-based all-rounder for online and FB booking, pre-pay and post payment, SMS confirmations, POS, self check-in, queue management, set and forget marketing, bespoke client app, 24/7 support, reporting plus much more. All for £20 a month. Shortcuts.co.uk/barber SALON TRACKER – software based, scheduling, online booking, POS, stock management, remote access, advanced reporting, intelligent marketing. Free trial. Salontracker.co.uk. PREMIER SOFTWARE – Lite cloud-based and full software version available. Online booking, staff scheduling, linked appointments for multiple services, built in SMS and email, loyalty schemes, reporting. Premiersoftware.uk

GREAT FOR…PROCESSING PAYMENT

WORLDPAY – no authorisation fee, no joining fee, no minimum, 1.5% on Visa and Mastercard. Offers online payments, card reader, telephone payment, POS, at-a-glance dashboard. Business.worldpay.com. SQUARE READER – easy set-up, card payments, 36 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“IN A RECENT SURVEY COMPLETED BY 399 UK BARBERS, 76% SAID THAT THEY HAD USED TECHNOLOGY TO IMPROVE THEIR BUSINESS IN THE LAST YEAR.” phone payments, real time analytics, employee permissions, 24/7 support. Squareup.com. SUMUP – contactless card reader, accepts all debit and credit cards, quick sign-up, no fixed contract, 1.69% per transaction. Sumup.co.uk.

GREAT FOR…KEEPING TRACK OF THE NUMBERS

XERO – takes payment, reconciles bank transactions, captures expenses on the go, payroll, workplace pensions, tracks employee expense claims, compliant with making tax digital. xero.com. QUICKBOOKS – good for small businesses and self-employed, payroll and auto enrolment,

expenses, mileage tracking, payments, tax tracking and compliant with making tax digital, cashflow and forecasting. quickbooks. intuit.com/uk/.

GREAT FOR…TAKING APPOINTMENTS

BOOKSY – online booking, personalised app, web and Facebook widgets, automatic reminders, mobile payments, email receipts. Free trial. booksy.com/en-gb. NEARCUT – easy online booking, free tailored website or plug-in to existing site, free app. 3 month free trial. nearcut.com. RESURVA – easy online booking, free website, email marketing, multi-location management, waiting lists. 60 day free trial. Resurva.com.

GREAT FOR…QUEUE MANAGEMENT

Q JUNKIE – real time queue management, push notifications, cuts out walk-outs, cuts out chaos, free customer app, 60 day trial. Qjunkie.co.uk. QUEUEAWAY – virtual queue management, text notifications, 60 day trial. Queueaway.co.uk. Special thank you to…Damian Owen, Kelly Alexander, Eric Lynch, Paul Simmons, Martin Harrison, Gareth Clark for their input!


ADVERTORIAL:MB

WHAT’S NOT TO LOVE ABOUT SHORTCUTS BARBER WHEN IT CAN DO ALL OF THIS? It’s time to start fulfilling your potential with Shortcuts Barber. This cloud-based software is perfect for barbershops and independent barbers and gives you access to everything you need to do business on the go. Your clients have the ability to book whenever it suits them; allows them to pre-pay using Stripe and lets them manage their appointments without having to call you. It’s surprisingly simple! SMS Confirmations – cuts down on no shows with automatic text reminders. Cloud Appointment Book - take your appointment book wherever you go, so you can make the most of every opportunity that comes your way. Reporting – armed with all the insights Shortcuts live reporting will give you, you can actively work on your business and see real results. Point of Sale - quickly check out clients, sell products and services, apply discounts and more. Mobile App - your very own guest app to help your clients stay connected with you and put your business in the palm of their hand. Ratings and Reviews - find out what your clients really think and nip any complaints in the bud with the Ratings and Reviews feature. Set and Forget Marketing - set up SMS and email marketing campaigns once and they will automatically deliver personalised communications throughout the year. Online Booking - will automatically sync with your appointment book from your website, Google, Facebook or Instagram page without any risk of doublebooking. 24/7 Support – round the clock technical support.

NO SWEAT BARBERSHOP SOFTWARE WITH SHORTCUTS BARBER Inky Steve of Jersey Street Social Club hates admin and loves a fast and easy way to manage his shop – he uses MyBarberApp from Shortcuts.

B

rilliant systems are the backbone of an efficient business and when time is money, time-saving software allows barbershop owners to spend time keeping their customers happy and putting hair on the floor. Inky Steve of Jersey Street Social Club has created a unique busy barbershop hub that serves his happy community of clients and it’s all gone pretty smoothly thanks to the support of his business software from Shortcuts Barber. Inky says “I wanted the Jersey Street Social Club to grow organically. I didn’t want to force it in anyway. We want a community feel…so we want customers to come back again and again. The ability to book and pay using the app keeps the flow of people coming through the shop. There are no longer hours of waiting. Customers can book at a time that suits them. They know they can comes straight in; get a hair-cut and go back to work.” Letting the Shorcuts Barber software get to work cuts out inefficiency, optimises costs and puts all the tough jobs like staff scheduling, stock control, cash flow and much more at your fingertips. Building

business is easier too with the ability to book directly from Google, appointment reminders and your very-own branded mobile guest-app. “Having the business in the palm of our hands cuts down paper work, ordering stock and all the boring things you get bogged down with. We can now keep a track of how many haircuts and customers we are dealing with and focus our marketing on days we are not as busy. For me the love of the job is doing the haircuts…basically I got it to make my life easier in every way and it does!” concludes Inky.

GET YOUR OWN CUSTOMISABLE BRANDED APP FOR FREE UNTIL 30/6/19 JUST £20 PER MONTH + £10 PER STAFF MEMBER. VISIT SHORTCUTS.CO.UK/BARBER. CALL 0161 972 4900.

WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 37


MB:PRODUCTS

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Superbly balanced clipper allows gentle, fatigue-free working from the wrist. Designed for bulk removal and tapering. Long lasting Diamond Blade is 40 times stronger than the standard blades. RRP £149.99 ex VAT. wahl.co.uk

THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE VEGAN TRAVEL BRUSH Synthetic innovative cellulose filament bristle, small size beard brush that’s vegan friendly. Beechwood body, laser etched. Perfect for beard maintenance. Price £17.99. bluebeards-revenge.co.uk.

PAUL MITCHELL TEA TREE SHAPING CREAM Gives texture, definition and strong flexible, lasting hold. Clean, matte finish. RRP £18.25. salon-success.co.uk

ETCH® TAPER SHAPE-UP SHAVE GEL Lightweight clear gel for precision shaving. Dermatologically approved and alcohol free, blended for cooling and soothing with Aloe Vera, Witch Hazel, Peppermint Oil and Vitamin E. No hot towel required. RRP: £13. www.etch.shop.

DENMAN FISHTAIL COMB Great for loose textured finishes. The curved body and wide tapered teeth make it great for creating soft ‘fingerfinished’ texture while the two-pronged tail works as a pick for natural hair. RRP: £2.56. denmanbrush.com.

ANDIS PROFOIL LITHIUM PLUS TITANIUM FOIL SHAVER

STORE FRONT 38 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

Quiet rotary motor, cord/cordless lightweight clipper with up to 80 minutes of run time from a single charge. Gold titanium hypoallergenic foils with two rows of blades. Price: £84.95 inc VAT. andis.com.

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WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 39


MB:PRODUCTS

KENT VENT BRUSH

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Natural bristle plus moulded pins, 32 tufts, seven-slot design. Optimises drying time, builds style and hold. RRP £25.00. Kentbrushes.com

CAPONE BARBER BUNDLE PACKAGE AMERICAN CREW MATTE CLAY

Bundle includes 2 x Capone Barber Chairs, 2 x Bronx Plus Barber Units. Offer price now £3495 ex VAT. Contact call 01455 553558. salonequipmentcentre.co.uk

Pliable, playable hold with a shine free finish. Perfect for hold and definition in short and mid length hair. RRP £15.20 / €17.50. americancrew.com

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COMING SOON

TAKARA BELMONT GT SPORTSMAN BARBER CHAIR Light, sleek barbershop chair with classic racing car overtones, built for lasting comfort. Price: £1170-£1490. takarahairdressing.co.uk.

Waxed canvas and real leather combine for a high quality, vintage style. Practical design. Available in three colours: Chocolate, Maroon and Sand. Price: £31.95 ex VAT. Coolblades.co.uk

EDWIN JAGGER CONDITIONING BEARD OIL Natural beard care, conditioning Sandalwood Beard Oil. Natural & Paraben free. RRP £10.00. Stockist contact enquiries@edwinjagger.com. Edwinjagger.com.

ALOHA CAPE FROM CAPE GANG Oversized, water resistant and lightweight patterned cape. Stretch Lycra neck with popper fastenings. Perfect for a laid back vibe. RRP £30.00. barberblades.co.uk 40 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK


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P O R T F O L I O


B R U C E B AI LLI E @ B R U CE. BAI L L I E

W A H L

A P P R E N T I C E

S H O O T

H A IR : B R U C E B A ILLE, C AM ER O N C O N N O LLY, M AR LEY M AYER , J O S H B R O D I E- B R O W N E, M ATT R EAD TO O LS: WAH L @ WAH LU K P H O T O G R A P H Y: LI AM O AKES @ LI AM O AKESPH O TO


M A RL EY MAYER @MAARLE Y MAY E R


MAT T R E A D @MAT T.B A R B E R . R EAD

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S A M

W A L L

H A IR : SAM WALL @ M R SAM WALL P H O T O G R A P H Y: H AYLEY C R O N E @ H AYLEYC R O N EX


LYN N D Y R O LFE @ H AI RBYLYNNDY

A N D I S

T E A M

B ALD Y @ B ALD YSBARBERS


LYN N D Y R O LF E @ HAI RBYLYNNDY

H AI R : B ALD Y, LYNNDY ROL F E TO O LS: AN D I S @ ANDI SCOUK PH O TO G R APH Y:   LI AM O AKES @ LI AMOAKESPHOT O


T O N Y

H A R E S I G N




H AI R : TO N Y H AR ESI G N @ H AI R B YTONYHARESI GN ASSI STAN T: FR ASER LAI N G @FADERL AI NG PH O TO G R APH RY : M ATT M AR C U S @ M ATTMARCUSPHOT O M U A: SU ZAN N E C H R I STI E @ SU ZZAN E CHRI ST I EMUA STYLI ST : TEG AN W H YB R O W @ TEGANWHYBROW SU I TS : STEWART C H R I STI E ( SC O TLAN D ’ S O LD EST TAI L OR’ S


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CAMERON CONNOLLY PREPPING

MB:SOCIAL

WAHL APPRENTICE SHOOT COMPETITION MB ran a competition sponsored by Wahl UK for five apprentice winners to experience a professional photo shoot with industry specialist and photographer Liam Oakes. Here’s how it went down…

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othing beats capturing your work on camera, so at the end of last year MB ran a competition in association with Wahl UK (@wahluk). Wahl is big on training and education and is always seeking ways to support the next gen of barbers. The competition was open to trainees and apprentice barbers in the UK and all they had to do was email a phone pic of their best cut. The competition attracted nearly 100 entries and was judged by the man himself, Simon Shaw, Global Artistic Director of Wahl. The five winners were: Marley Mayer @maarleymayer from North Barbers, Josh Brodie Brown @joshbrownhair, Cameron Connolly @cameron_james98, Bruce Baillie @bruce.baillie from Sovereign Grooming and Matt Read @matt.barber.read from Gould Barbers. Each barber was asked to bring their own model and was given free rein to create the look of their choice. The shoot took place at studios in Buckinghamshire in January. Each barber was left to prep their model

62 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“ R E A L LY E N J O Y E D T H A N D IT H A S IN S P IR E DAY E W O R K O N F U RT H E R D M E T O S H OOTS A N D M A K E PH OTO A O F IT.” B RU C E B A IL F U T U R E L IE

MARLEY MAYER PREPPING


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MB:SOCIAL

LIAM OAKES AT WORK (PIC COURTESY OF ROBERT BRAID)

“I HAD A GREAT EXPERIENCE AT THE SHOOT. I LOVED THE CHANCE TO SHOWCASE MY OWN SKILLS AS WELL AS A GLIMPSE INTO HOW PHOTOSHOOTS WORK AND HOW MUCH ACTUALLY GOES INTO THEM.” MATT READ and then help direct the shoot to get the best out of their desired look. The goal of any hair shoot is to make the hair the star and often what you see with your eye and what the camera captures can be a very different result. Liam shoots his images ‘tethered’ which means that every shot he takes pops up on his Mac Book which gave every barber the chance to assess, tweak or change their look as they worked through the process. Every barber received a goody bag courtesy of Wahl including a Legend Clipper, Wahl styling products, clipper comb, neck brush, gown and towel. The results can be found on pages 42 to 46 of the Portfolio section in this issue. 64 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

LIAM OAKES AT WORK (PIC COURTESY OF ROBERT BRAID)

“ I R E A L LY E N J O Y E D M E E T IN G N E W P E O P E X P E R IE N C IN G N E W L E A N D T H IN G S.” M A R L E Y M AY E R


S P E C I A L F E AT U R E : M B

The Bluebeards Revenge is a brand that leans in and listens close to barbers and male grooming trends and its latest round up shows that there are two key trends to watch out for this season.

SOPHIE COLLINS – SOPH’S BARBERSHOP, LLANBEDR, NORTH WALES “A lot of my clients are asking to keep their beards reasonably short, faded down from the hair into the cheeks. A few are also asking me to shorten the hair in the middle of their chins, emphasising their moustaches and goatees. I think a lot of this is because people are seeing it more with celebrities and social media influencers.”

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OLLIE FOSTER – NUMBER 47 BARBERS, CHESTER “For me, 2019 is finally going to see the full return of longer hair. It’s exciting, as this time around more barbers are competent working with length…they’re not just specialists in short back and sides! Barbers are now seen as hybrids between their historic roots and more modern men’s hairdressing.” VINCENT QUINN – HARD GRIND, DUNDEE “Current street wear brands are

definitely influencing the hairstyles that my customers are asking for and it’s all about the resurgence of the 90s! The vintage/retro movement is hijacking the limelight from the usual major men’s fashion brands, showing how youth culture is making its stamp. Hairstyles like the bowl cut, the wedge cut and classic curtains are very much in trend for youngsters at the moment, especially when paired with loosely turned-up jeans and a FILA jacket. Barbers are better and more technically trained now too, so these cuts are being treated professionally and adapted to avoid the ‘cut at home in the dark’ vibe.” THE BLUEBEARDS AMBASSADORS CREATING BANGUP-TO-DATE BEARDS… CALLUM MARKS – LUKA’S BARBERS, PLYMOUTH “Loads of my guys are ditching their big, Viking-like beards as well. They’re going for lower maintenance looks. A great example is a combination of short stubble and a full moustache.”

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WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 65


MB:SOCIAL

FORM IS TEMPORARY, CLASS IS PERMANENT

2

019 has been a hugely busy year for Wahl as we hosted the barbering stages at HJ Live, London and Pro Hair, Manchester. It was great to see so many barbers bring their A-game to the Wahl stages, seriously impressed with the education that you provided for the audience. Barbering continues to grow and so do the training and education offerings from every barber that has a logo and more than 10 Instagram followers. As predicted though, the majority of these ‘trainers’ don’t stick around and the ones that are still around struggle to get more than two people on their course. Whilst it’s important to invest in education, as we are all on a constant learning curve, it’s even more important to find a training provider with the knowledge and experience to deliver education that will ensure you leave with the skills required to truly add value to your skillset and business. At Wahl, we are dedicated to delivering the best training around the world and are committed to investing in our education offering. We recently opened the doors to our newly refurbished, state-of-the-art Academy at Wahl HQ in Kent. We’d love you all to come down and visit the 66 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

THE NEW WAHL ACADEMY

“AT WAHL, WE ARE DEDICATED TO DELIVERING THE BEST TRAINING AROUND THE WORLD AND ARE COMMITTED TO INVESTING IN OUR EDUCATION OFFERING.” new Academy, it’s a great environment to learn in with everything you need to further your education. From classic cuts to fade work and wet shaving, we deliver the essential skills with some of the best barbering and hairdressing educators in the world. Find out more about our courses at wahlacademy.co.uk I’d like to start my shout out’s with a huge mention for Modern Barber’s editor, Rachel Gould. Always at shows

and supporting British Barbering, it’s no wonder Modern Barber is still the number one barbering mag. On a personal level, I would like to give a shout out to Dom Lehane for the recent interview he did with me for his podcast @howtocutit. I’ve had some great feedback since it went out, so thank you all for the support. Hope you all have a great Spring and catch up in the Summer!


SOCIAL:MB

PRODUCT OF THE MONTH: CHROM2STYLE

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uperbly balanced clipper allows gentle, fatigue-free working from the wrist. Designed for bulk removal and tapering, the Diamond Blade is 40 times stronger than our standard blades, so lasts longer.

SAM CAMPAGNA THE NEWEST MEMBER OF THE WAHL ARTISTIC TEAM

BARBER OF THE ISSUE: SAM CAMPAGNA

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e don’t often add members to the Wahl Artistic Team, so you can be sure that when we do, they are of the highest quality! We are proud to welcome Sam Campagna to the team, a true professional with all the skills to succeed at Wahl. Welcome, Sam. Keep a track of Sam’s progress @wahlartisticteam

DATES FOR THE DIARY

PRODUCT OF THE ISSUE: PORSCHE SUNGLASSES. SUMMER’S COMING!

11TH MAY – THE VAMPS, HYDRO 18TH MAY – FA CUP FINAL, WEMBLEY 2ND – 3RD JUNE – BARBER CONNECT, TELFORD WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 67


MB:SOCIAL

THE 10 MINUTE CHAT Gianni Scumaci began his career sweeping floors in his father’s barbershop at age seven. The years since have seen him catapulted to the upper echelons of the fashion industry but he always returns to education and sharing his contagious love of hair. MB found out why his barbershop roots helped form a strong work ethic and a true feel for hair. 68 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK


SOCIAL:MB GIANNI WORKING ALONGSIDE HIS DAD AT HIS DADS BARBERSHOP IN LINCOLN

M

B: TELL ME A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND AND YOUR BARBERING HERITAGE? GS: I am named after my grandfather who began cutting hair as a prisoner of war. After the war he married my English grandmother who got him a job at the barbershop next door to their home. I’m a third generation hair professional and my dad just retired after 51 years behind the same chair in his own shop in Lincoln. I have extended family, seventeen members are all barbers in the area and my cousin has taken over my dad’s shop. My career started when I was seven and I wanted a Rubik’s Cube for £6.99, so Dad told me I could earn the money in the shop working 10 till 5 for £2. He used to open at 6am so on the third week I worked 6 till 5 and he still gave me £2. When I questioned it he told me that ‘if the only reason you are going to work is for the money, you are doing it for the wrong reason’, that really stuck with me. I started to really look at the cuts he was doing, watching and learning. It became my passion and I did my first men’s cut at age nine and by 13 I was cutting at school for my friends and teachers. Then my dad got me a job with a local unisex salon and I began cutting men’s hair commercially, the owner

GIANNI WORKING ON THE VALENTINO AD CAMPAIGN

GIANNI’S FIRST PUBLISHED WORK IN ID MAGAZINE

“I’M VERY FORTUNATE THAT I HAD THE EARLY SUPPORT FROM MY DAD. I WOULD SAY IT’S A NATURAL APPROACH. I HAVE MY OWN TRAINING COMPANY, GS EDUCATION AND IT’S WHAT I TEACH.” Keith Reeve taught me so much and gave me so many opportunities. His shop did a lot of stage education and shows and he gave me the chance to go on stage at 13 or 14. He was such an incredible showman and gave me so much confidence. My mum had also told me all about Vidal Sassoon, she idolised him. I decided to apply for an apprenticeship there. I wanted to be the best I could be at everything and I never thought I could master ladies hair. I just walked into head office in London and asked for a job. I had some incredible hair mentors like Scott Cottis and Uwe Breuer and it was my barbering experience that underpinned everything and got me through my ladies training. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 69


MB:SOCIAL MB: AS A HAIR PROFESSIONAL HOW DO YOU DEVELOP YOUR CREATIVITY? GS: I give myself space and time. I try and search influences outside of hair. I try and find interests outside of that sphere and allow my subconscious to work. You need to give yourself the chance to breathe. I’m inspired by anything that stirs the emotion like listening to a great film score from Morricone.

GIANNI WITH LONG TIME FRIEND (DAVID) BAILEY

MB: HOW DO YOU TRANSLATE CREATIVE WORK INTO EVERY DAY MEN’S HAIR FOR CUSTOMERS? GS: By working with what the hair is telling you and what the client isn’t telling you. Make the most of what the hair will do and push the possibilities and always try to help the customer evolve their look. I think there are a lot of barbers that will impose a look on a customer and that makes a cut about the barber, not about the customer. So I always tune in to where I can bring value to not just their finished look but the experience and how it made them feel. ID MAGAZINE

“I GIVE MYSELF SPACE AND TIME. I TRY AND SEARCH INFLUENCES OUTSIDE OF HAIR. I TRY AND FIND INTERESTS OUTSIDE OF THAT SPHERE AND ALLOW MY SUBCONSCIOUS TO WORK. YOU NEED TO GIVE YOURSELF THE CHANCE TO BREATHE.” 70 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

ID MAGAZINE

MB: HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR APPROACH TO MEN’S HAIR? GS: I’m very fortunate that I had the early support from my dad. I would say it’s a natural approach. I have my own training company, GS Education and it’s what I teach. I had this rich Italian traditional barbering foundation of core technique and feeling for the hair. Technique is very important but it is superficial, you need to get a feel for this head of hair, not any head of hair. My dad used to say that in the 70’s when hair got longer lots of barbers couldn’t get the weight right in the back… they had followed technique with no feeling and without working visually. I got to work with some of the best men’s stylists in the world at Sassoon and I learned so much from them. Elevation and angles are one thing but being a slave to technique won’t make a cut perfect. You need to engage your emotions.

MB: YOU WORK ON AD CAMPAIGNS AND CELEBRITY SHOOTS, TELL ME MORE. GS: I’ve always had personal photographic projects and when I was 20 I wanted to create a collection of images of interesting men. I hit the streets and picked eight models, I gave them all the money I had which was £50 and told them to have a great night out on me but they had to stay out all night and come straight to the studio in Whitechapel. I did the hair and styled the looks and shot eight polaroids and took them to the offices of I.D Magazine and pitched the idea to them. It was a big risk. They were really nice about it but they said ‘no thanks’. I went ahead and did the full shoot anyway and then out of the blue I got a call from the owner of I.D asking if they could publish and that was it. My first published work ended up as a spread in I.D. Out of that I got to work with iconic photographer Tim Walker which resulted in spreads in Vogue L’Homme and Vogue. Then Vogue introduced me to Bailey. I work consistently with Bailey and ninety percent of all the work I have done in the last ten years has been men’s. Bailey is a portrait photographer and he wants the truth out of his subject to capture the best shot, I want the same for the hair. It works. MB: WHAT MAKES A GREAT EDUCATOR? GS: You have to engage people at a deeper level. What people see and what they take away are two different things. Anybody can watch anything but what stays with them after they left, is really what they pay for. Gianniscumaci.com



MB:SOCIAL

NO POACHING MB heard from Baldy of Baldy’s Barbers in Aylesbury (@baldysbarbers), he’s got something to say about the nasty practice of staff poaching…so we let him, in his very own words. Doesn’t really matter what you call it; whether it’s headhunting or poaching, the reality is that if you have a good member of staff, it’s pretty likely that some other barbershop is going to do their best to steal them from you. That’s not ok. Most shops are part of a small community. If your shop gets a good reputation it builds on word-of-mouth for customers but it also means that the word gets out that you have good barbers. Staff poaching isn’t new but it has become easier with the rise of social media. The barber gets approached by direct message and usually gets over promised all kinds of things to lure them to leave. I understand it to a degree but I’m protective of my team and I just think it’s an unprofessional way for barbershop owners to behave. Why can’t they just advertise and attract barbers to them. If a barber is actively looking to leave, then they will reach out to other employers in the area. I feel very lucky because I have a great relationship with my barbers. It’s a very open and honest relationship and when this happened to me recently the barber in question came to me and told me. He was very respectful in turning down the position and replying to the shop that wanted him too. I built my team from scratch and helped them grow. I respect and nurture them. I get them involved in projects. I look for simple ways to show how much they are appreciated, even if that means bringing them tea in the morning. When they leave for empty promises from a future employer then I lose a good member of staff and the barber gets stuck in a difficult position. 72 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

BALDY

“I LOOK FOR SIMPLE WAYS TO SHOW HOW MUCH THEY ARE APPRECIATED, EVEN IF THAT MEANS BRINGING THEM TEA IN THE MORNING.”

If that happens, I leave the door open, I never burn bridges or make it difficult. It makes it easy then for the barber to ultimately re-join the team and if I have work for them I will always take them back. My advice to other employers is build your own reputation, be the shop that everyone wants to work in, take care of your team but don’t go upsetting the apple cart for other businesses because that word gets out too!”


Barbicide - No pretender Every client, every time

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MB:SOCIAL

GOT BOTTLE Courage Noble has two shops in Norwich and they are all about the ‘good vibes’ for their customers and for the environment. Here’s how they walk the talk.

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imon Buller, Director of Courage Noble (@couragenobleuk) is constantly seeking ways to make a positive contribution with his business; including buying local for beer and coffee supplies and offering a home to local artists to showcase their work. The latest project is thinking global by introducing

SEA CHANGE REQUIRED 74 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

refillable glass bottles for shampoo and conditioner, so that Courage Noble can do their bit to minimise the impact of plastics on the environment. Simon says “Like many we’re aware of the damage that single use plastics have on the planet and as parents of three young children, we wanted to do our best to try to protect it for their sakes. In our personal lives, we carry stainless steel straws at all times for the kids and use metal thermal flasks instead of disposable bottles. We soon started thinking what we could do in the shop to try to reduce plastic use. We already pay extra to have our products packaged in recyclable glass jars and for the majority of our waste to be professionally recycled, so switching to refills for our shampoo and conditioner

SOME FACTS ON PLASTIC WASTE COURTESY OF SAS.ORG.UK 1. EVERY DAY APPROXIMATELY 8 MILLION PIECES OF PLASTIC POLLUTION FIND THEIR WAY INTO OUR OCEANS. 2. IN 1950, THE WORLD’S POPULATION OF 2.5 BILLION PRODUCED 1.5 MILLION TONS OF PLASTIC; IN 2016, A

and then reducing the price accordingly seemed like a good way of encouraging our clients to be involved.” Simon and his team sourced the bottles and decanted the product from large pump bottles which means no waste and no mess. They even wash and recycle the large size pump bottles when they are empty. They don’t pay for labelling and use recyclable aluminium lids and that means they can reduce the cost and hold less stock. The client pays the initial purchase of the glass bottle of £1.50 and then £6 for the refill. The reaction has been nothing but positive. “It’s been amazing. People really care about the environment and this is a simple way to make a difference. Sales are up and the clients are super happy!” concludes Simon.

GLOBAL POPULATION OF MORE THAN 7 BILLION PEOPLE PRODUCED OVER 320 MILLION TONS OF PLASTIC. THIS IS SET TO DOUBLE BY 2034. 3. THERE MAY NOW BE AROUND 5.25 TRILLION MACRO AND MICROPLASTIC PIECES FLOATING IN THE OPEN OCEAN. WEIGHING UP TO 269,000 TONNES.


Turn a haircut into a harmony

Turn it up! Discover how TheMusicLicence is helping businesses find their mojo.

0800 0720 808 Quote ‘Modern Barber’

pplprs.co.uk/themusiclicence


M B :T I P S

SHOP FLOOR STEP-BY-STEP 01

THE BEFORE

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Jim switched to an Andis Cordless US Pro Li. From just above the point of the temple curve, work down the head using a 0.5 (open blade). Work from the higher point closing your blade as you get closer to the bottom. 76 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

04

Jim used an Andis Slimline Pro Li trimmer to shape up the hairline and add detail.

Jim Williams (@thebarberenvy) of Baldy’s Barbers in Aylesbury in Bucks loves afro texture and has a solid customer base for afro work. Here Jim shows how to sharpen up the classic afro hi top fade.

02

Take time to brush all the hair out with an Afro comb. Make sure there are no knots. Work out knots with a fine toothed afro comb and/or a touch of castor oil.

Jim used an Andis Nation @andiscouk with a flat ‘fade blade’ and put in a base grade of #1 to give an even canvas to work on.

05

06

Jim used an Andis T-Outliner trimmer to work from the middle of the temple curve to the base of the hair.

Use a fade brush to clear away any loose hair from the work area to ensure that you achieve a clean finish.


TIPS:MB

07

Jim used an Andis Nation flat bladed clipper (fully closed) to add structure and shape to the main bulk of the hair on the top. Work upwards, resting the back of the clipper blade on the weight line and continue straight up and past the top point of the hair. Ensure that you keep the same angle all the way up until the blade of the clipper is completely clear of the hair.

08

Again use the flat blade (fully closed) and work from the front to the back, using the side structure as a guide and work horizontally across the top of the bulk to level out the top.

09

Jim used an Andis Pro Foil shaver and worked from the bottom quarter of the temple arch. Working down the head clear the remaining hair until you achieve smooth skin.

THE AFTER

10

Jim used an Andis Slimline Pro Li to add a detail line working from the corner point of the hair line arching towards the occipital bone.

11

Using your scissors float them over the top of the main bulk of the shape. With a consistent and even scissor motion clear away any remaining unwanted hair. Be very careful not to cut into the main structure of the shape.

12

Finally brush all hair out and check for symmetry to finish the look. No product is required as the structure will hold, so it’s good to go! WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 77


MUSIC CAN BE A TOOL OF YOUR TRADE When thinking of the tools you need to make your barber shop succeed, what springs to mind initially is bound to be your scissors, clippers, grooming products, towels and that all important barbers chair. Obviously without these vital tools you would not be able to offer a service at all. However, these days it’s not just about the service you offer, it’s the whole customer experience which can set you apart from your competitors. And music is part of that customer experience. It can be another tool of your trade. Music creates a mood. Maybe you want your clients to feel relaxed with some feelgood music as they sit back and have a shave, or perhaps your customers enjoy hearing the latest live sports chat on a bustling Saturday morning. Playing music in your studio can encourage conversations, that vital connection between your staff and customers.

CREATE A REFLECTIVE PLAYLIST Your clients are diverse, and your playlist can reflect that. Know your customers, involve your team, learn which style of music heightens that ‘feelgood’ factor at different times, and you could create a barber shop which is as much known for its great atmosphere as it is for its excellent service and products. It’s all about the experience. Music can change that experience from good to outstanding! It’s not just your customers who benefit from music being played either, your colleagues will too! Music can add a burst of energy to a team who have been on their feet all day. So much so that going back to 1940 the BBC introduced ‘Music While you Work’ radio programmes to boost productivity in factories!


NOW ASK YOURSELF, CAN YOU REALLY AFFORD NOT TO PLAY MUSIC IN YOUR SALON? Are there newspapers or magazines available for your clients to read whilst they wait or have their treatment? Perhaps you go the extra mile and provide freshly ground coffee or even an ice cold beer. Would you consider not supplying these for that feeling of added value? Seems an impossible consideration doesn’t it? Playing music in your business could cost you as little as £0.64 per day*, and you will be safe in the knowledge that you are licensed to play original music and radio stations which can improve your brand, your clients will feel welcome and valued, whilst also increasing staff morale. And now we are making it even easier for you to buy that licence. Previously businesses needed to buy two separate music licences, one from PPL and one from PRS for Music. These two bodies have listened to their customers and formed a joint venture – PPL PRS Ltd - and created TheMusicLicence. What this means for you is that you can now buy and renew your music licence in one place, with one invoice and one contact. Simple! It really is as easy as buying that daily newspaper, or stocking up your in-shop fridge!

www.pplprs.co.uk * Cost example spread across 365 days based on a premises with up to 10 chairs or treatment tables, combined yearly music licence could cost around £233 (excluding VAT).

“Music definitely impacts the salon positively. It just gives it a good vibe.” One.a Salon, Caernarfon

Turn it up! 0800 0720 808 Quote ‘Modern Barber’


M B :T I P S

HOW TO…SUPPORT COLLEAGUES AND EMPLOYEES WITH MENTAL HEALTH PROBLEMS

SALMAN MALIK OF ETCH

The NHF/NBF offers significant support for professionals in the hair industry. Here their experts share best practice on helping people with mental health challenges. Mental Health Awareness Week, hosted by the Mental Health Foundation, will take place from Monday 13 May to Sunday 19 May 2019. The Mental Health Foundation reports that mental health problems are the leading cause of sickness absence in the UK.

1

Stress can be much harder to spot in colleagues than a physical illness. Warning signs include: under-performing, taking more sick leave, being tired or irritable, drinking or smoking more than usual, losing their sense of humour or being overly self-critical. If you have concerns, reach out to your colleague, to see if you can do anything to support them now or in the future.

HOW TO…GET THE PERFECT SHAPE UP 2

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alman Malik is a scientist turned barber. His search for the ultimate shave gel came up empty handed, so he created one. His brand Etch @etch_shavegel has helped him become a shape up pioneer. Keeping customers sharp has never been easier, here’s how he does it: > In order to get a crisp shape-up, first use a zero-gapped trimmer (i.e. Andis T-outliners and/or Wahl Detailers adjusted with the T-wide blade) to line-up your client. > Ensure the hairline is not pushed back and follows the natural curvature of the hair. This is to avoid creating an entirely new shape to the hair which looks unnatural during hair growth. > Use a shave gel that is clear, soothing to the skin and provides lubrication to provide a smooth slide and glide for the razor.

80 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“ENSURE THE HAIRLINE IS NOT PUSHED BACK AND FOLLOWS THE NATURAL CURVATURE OF THE HAIR.”

> Use a fresh blade for hygiene and to protect the customer from potential infections but additionally to provide a razor-sharp and crispy line-up. A sharp razor avoids minor nicks and cuts. > Apply a thin layer of gel in the shave area on the skin, stretch the skin and shave in the direction of hair growth with short strokes of the razor. > Gently remove residue to leave your client looking fresh. > Avoid using gels that are heavily perfumed or include alcohol which is very harsh and drying.

The law says that employers have a legal duty to protect their barbershop employees from stress at work. Common causes of workplace stress for employees are being unable to cope with the workload, having no say over how and when work is done, not knowing what’s expected, badly managed change in the workplace, and workplace bullying (nhf.info/bullying). NHF Members have access to a free HR legal helpline which can help with stress-related risk assessments: nhf.info/legal-advice

3

If you have concerns, arrange a confidential meeting with your employee to discuss the situation and ask if there is anything you can do to support them. Consider practical offers of help such as flexible working or some time off. Offer a follow-up meeting to monitor the situation. Find out more: nhf.info/stressed-employee

4

Be prepared: you may have to listen to difficult personal problems or criticism of your management style. Listen carefully and try to stay objective. Don’t take things personally and stay focused on finding solutions. If appropriate, share details about services and organisations that offer help and support: www.mentalhealth.org.uk/yourmental-health/getting-help

www.nhf.info


Make your barbershop business boom with the NHF JOIN US TODAY TO GET THESE FANTASTIC BENEFITS: Free everyday business and HR advice from our friendly membership team. Free 24/7 employment and commercial legal lifeline. Free employment contracts & apprentice agreements. Free chair renting contracts. Free in-depth guides and fact sheets on every aspect of running your business.

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Valuable discounts on business essentials including insurance, workshops and health & safety.

Join now for less than 75p a day Join before 30 June and quote MBSPRING to get ÂŁ25 off your membership fee

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THE LIST BARBER SUPPLIERS Coolblades Ltd. Unit 5 Wyre Court, Bracewell Ave, Poulton-le-Fylde, FY6 8JF T: 01253 893091. E: cb-info@coolblades.co.uk. W: www.coolblades.co.uk Barber Blades. Charnwood Park, 3, Clos Marion, Cardiff, CF10 4LJ. T: 0800 644 0234. W: barberblades.co.uk Salon Services. Nationwide. Call for local store info. T: 0330 123 1907. W: salon-services.com

BARBER TRAINING Great British Barber Academy. 26 Wimborne Road, Poole, Dorset, BH15 2BU. T: 01202 287143. E: info@greatbritishbarberingacademy.com. W: www.greatbritishbarberingacademy.com

FURNITURE Barber Equipment Centre. Leicester Road, Lutterworth, LE17 4HF. T: 01455 553 558. E: info@salonequipmentcentre.co.uk. W: salonequipmentcentre.co.uk Moda Salon Interiors. 1st Floor 4A, Brittany Court, High Street South, Dunstable, Beds, LU6 3HR. T: 0800 999 6446. E: sales@modasaloninteriors.com. W: www.modasaloninteriors.com REM UK Ltd. Glenfield Mill, Glenfield Road, Nelson, Lancashire, BB9 8AW. T: 01282 619977. E: sales@rem.co.uk. W: www.rem.co.uk Takara Belmont . Belmont House, 1 St Andrews Way, Bow, London, E3 3PA. T: 0207 515 0333. E: katie@takara.co.uk. W: www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

PRODUCTS American Crew. Revlon Professional, Ground Floor, Greater London House, Hampstead Road, London, NW1 7QX. T: 0207 391 7440. E: customerservice.uk@revlon.com. W: www.americancrew.com Etch Shave Gel. T: 07506 578353. E: salman@etch.shop. W: etch.shop Kipa. 5 Daimler Close, Royal Oak, Industrial Estate, Daventry, Northamptonshire, NN11 8QJ. T: 01327 315889. E: info@kipa.co.uk. W: www.kipa.co.uk Paul Mitchell. Salon Success Ltd, 1-2 Millenium Point, Broadfields, Aylesbury, Bucks, HP19 8YH. 82 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

Our quick reference guide to the products and services that love serving your industry.

T: 0845 659 0012. E: helloclub@salon-success.co.uk. W: www.paul-mitchell.co.uk The Bluebeards Revenge. Unit One, Langage Business Park, Eagle Road, Plymouth, PL7 5JY. T: 01752 898191. E: info@bluebeards-revenge.co.uk. W: www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT Andis. Available at all good barber suppliers.W:andis.com Babyliss Pro UK. The Conair Group Ltd, Prospect Court, 3 Waterfront Business Park, Fleet, Hampshire, GU51 3TW. T: 0370 513 3191. W: www.bablylisspro.co.uk Denman International. Clandeboye Road, Bangor, Co. Down, B20 3JH. T: 028 9146 2141. W: denmanbrush.com Edwin Jagger. Cavendish Works, 6 Morpeth Street, Sheffield, S3 7JL. T: 0114 270 6706. W: www.edwinjagger.co.uk Kent Brushes. London Road, Apsely, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP3 9SA. T: 01442 232623. E: customerservices@kentbrushes.com. W: kentbrushes.com Wahl UK. Sterling House, Clipper Close, Ramsgate Kent, CT12 5GG. T: 01227 740066. E: customer.services@wahl.co.uk. W: www.wahl.co.uk

SHOP SERVICES NHF/NBF. One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford, MK44 3WH. T: 01234 831965. E: enquiries@nhf.info. W: www.nhf.info PPL PRS. Mercury Place, St George’s Street, Leicester, LE1 1QG. T: 0800 0720 808. W: www.pplprs.co.uk

SOFTWARE AND APPS Booksy UK. T: 01424 400091. E: info.gb@booksy.net. W: booksy.com Premier Software. 9 & 10 Heritage Park, Hayes Way, Cannock, Staffordshire, WS11 7LT. T: 01543 466580. E: sales@premiersoftware.co.uk. W: www.premiersoftware.uk Salon Tracker Ltd. 30-38 Dock Street, Leeds LS19 1JF. T: 0113 350 8230. E: info@salontracker.co.uk. W: www.salontracker.co.uk Shortcuts Software/Shortcuts Barber. Dalton House Dane Road, Sale, M33 7AR. T: 0161 972 4900. W: www.shortcuts.co.uk


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