JULY 2013 — ISSUE 229 WOMENSWEAR BUYER
— SPINNING A YARN How Cash Ca’s traditional approach is winning customers worldwide —
— STREET CRED Lifestyle label Nikita’s global ambitions —
— SEASON’S PREVIEW Our comprehensive guide to spring/summer 2014 —
— WEB WATCH The results of WWB’s e-commerce survey —
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7 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 8 NEWS — 16 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 20 TALKING POINT — 84 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 86 ADVICE Experts answer your questions — 90 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With Ilse Jacobsen —
24 THE BIG WWB E-COMMERCE SURVEY — 26 Q&A With Cash Ca’s Craig Alexander — 38 RIDING THE WAVE Nikita’s Heida Birgisdottir reveals her plans for the label — 75 LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW The brands not to miss — 78 COUNTDOWN TO SCOOP INTERNATIONAL The latest signings to this month’s show — 82 FIRST GLANCE AT MODA A sneak peek at next month’s show — FRONT COVER YUMI —
30 STYLE FILE — 32 10 OF THE BEST Shorts — 34 FASHION RADAR — 42 SPRING/SUMMER 2014 Our guide to the season — 44 SAFARI SLICK The experts at Trendstop interpret this season’s catwalk trends — 46 COLLECTION NEWS — 52 BRAND PREVIEW — 68 ONE DIRECTION The key directional and young fashion s/s 14 looks —
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Editor Isabella Griffiths email@example.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson firstname.lastname@example.org Laura Kirkpatrick email@example.com Christina Williams firstname.lastname@example.org — Sub editor Amanda Batley email@example.com — Design & production Michael Podger firstname.lastname@example.org Clive Holloway email@example.com James Lindley firstname.lastname@example.org Richard Boyle email@example.com — Senior advertising sales manager Mina Parmar firstname.lastname@example.org — Sales executive Jasprit Sihra email@example.com — Subscriptions Lydia Bennett firstname.lastname@example.org — Production director Gill Brabham email@example.com — Commercial director Nick Cook firstname.lastname@example.org — Marketing director Stephanie Parker email@example.com — Managing director Colette Tebbutt firstname.lastname@example.org — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323
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I KNOW I’M STATING THE OBVIOUS WHEN I SAY THAT E-COMMERCE HAS TRANSFORMED THE RETAIL LANDSCAPE FOR EVER, AND MOST INDIES HAVE HAD TO AT LEAST CONSIDER AN ONLINE STRATEGY IN SOME FORM OR OTHER. — However, it’s not only the considerable financial investment, but also a whole host of resource, organisational and logistical issues that can be daunting for a bricks-and-mortar indie who is looking to venture into e-commerce. Those indies who have successfully diversified into multichannel have treated their online arm as an additional business division, almost like a second store, and dedicated a lot of time, effort and indeed lots of resources into creating a presence that translates their bricks and mortar proposition into an online context. And, in my eyes, that’s the key. This issue we are publishing the results of our big e-commerce survey on page 24, and some of the answers are quite fascinating. A substantial 63 per cent of our indie participants have a transactional website, with 29 per cent expecting their online arm to generate up to 10-20 per cent of their overall business, and even more, 31 per cent, are expecting it to be 20-30 per cent. Even more surprising, 14 per cent are expecting online to exceed their bricks-and-mortar turnover and become over 60 per cent of their business – a much higher figure than I expected. And with 97 per cent of respondents planning to grow their e-commerce business over the next 12-18 months, it is clear that, for most, a transactional website has become a key focus.
However, I can’t gloss over the fact that 49 per cent of respondents who currently don’t have a transactional website stated that they are not currently looking to launch one either. Cynics may say that this is quite an old-fashioned, even short-sighted, view, however, it does reflect a certain confidence in one’s current set-up, and indeed a degree of defiance not to just do what everyone else is. I know a number of – still – very successful indies who have deliberately taken the decision not to go online, and it has not meant a downturn in sales. Because as much as e-commerce opens up your market to the world and expands your customer base, it also makes you very vulnerable to a hell of a lot of competition, price comparisons and discount wars, which are not always easy to overcome when you’re an indie. While, personally, I don’t know what I would do without online shopping (in every aspect of life), I do have to say that I respect businesses who are doing their own thing and reinventing themselves in other ways. In the end, it boils down to each individual retailer and what is right for their target market, and this may or may not lie in e-commerce.
Isabella Griffiths, editor
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NEWS REVIEW —
CASH-FLOW CONCERNS ON THE RISE FOR SMEs Research by the Forum of Private Business highlights increased fears from businesses over their financial situation. —
Concerns surrounding cash flow and late payment are on the rise, according to research by the Forum of Private Business. The study has also shown increasing fears from businesses around their finances in general, including concern banks would call in overdrafts or loans. On cash flow, 38 per cent of businesses stated it was the primary cause of concern to their business at present, this compared to 33 per cent last year when asked the same question in Forum research. Worries around access to finance also increased from 17 per cent to 23 per cent this year, and the actual cost of finance went up from six per cent to eight per cent. Lack of choice for finance at 19 per cent was down marginally from 20 per cent. “Taken in a wider context, these results are alarming because it suggests a marked deterioration in SME confidence in their finances,” says the Forum’s chief executive, Phil Orford. “We suspect this is a result of the banks’ ongoing failure to deliver affordable finance to small firms, and the fact businesses are increasingly worried about cash flow, and being paid late, is surely linked. These are issues borne of credit being scarce and difficult to obtain – the recently
announced OFT investigation into the lack of business lending by the banks underlines this.” Notably, separate Forum research on business support also showed more than half of firms polled believed the Forum’s Credit Control Guide, which helps small firms get paid on time and manage their cash flow, would be beneficial. This, says the Forum, is proof many small firms are crying out for help with managing their finances better. “Everybody knows cash flow and credit control are crucial areas for businesses,” says Orford. “It’s those firms who successfully manage these aspects of their business who are better placed to survive a one-off shock, and indeed who are more likely to be in favour with the banks for a loan. Our Credit Control Guide is a great starting point for businesses who feel they are wanting help in this area.” The Forum research also polled respondents on attitudes to banks in several key areas, with ratings from 1 to 5 – 1 being no issue, to 5 meaning seriously damaging, with anything over 3 classed as harmful to their business. Bank charges scored the highest with an average rating of 3.6 – up from 3.23 on identical Forum research undertaken in
“Taken in a wider context, these results are alarming because it suggests a marked deterioration in SME confidence in their finances”
2006. Collateral requirements averaged 3.2, up from 2.88; reduction or calling in of loan/overdraft was up from 3.16 to 3.5. Perhaps not surprisingly, the availability of finance saw the biggest leap, going up from 2.43 to 3.3. “This research not only shows businesses fearful about their own financial state, but it shows ongoing dissatisfaction with the banks,” said Orford. “It isn’t good enough that the banks are now regarded as harmful to SMEs in so many different ways, not just the lack of lending anymore.” To obtain a copy of the Forum’s Credit Control Guide call 0845 130 1722.
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NEWS REVIEW —
BESTSELLER CREATES EUROPEAN HEAD OFFICE IN LONDON Danish fashion house Bestseller is relocating its offices to Fashion Street in Shoreditch, East London, next week, setting a new framework for the expansion and presentation of the group’s 13-strong brand portfolio. The new office – an old converted warehouse spread over two storeys – will house the sales, marketing, visual merchandising and administrative departments, and will be treated as Bestseller’s European HQ. The move comes weeks after the expansion of the group’s Manchester showroom, which takes over the entire floor of the city’s Arndale House. “Fashion Street represents a milestone in the growth of our company, and we have spent a lot of time and effort to create an incredible environment to support our continued growth”, says Allan Vad Nielsen, UK country manager. Bestseller’s brand portfolio includes Vero Moda, Selected Femme/Homme, Only, Mama.licious, Vila, Pieces, Name It, JunaRose, Jaqueline de Yong, Noisy May, Y.A.S. and Jack & Jones. —
BANDOLERA BOUGHT OUT OF ADMINISTRATION Dutch fashion brand Bandolera has been bought out of administration from the Bandolera Holding by a former designer, Mirjam Cornelissen, and her company, Bobby Blues. Cornelissen has brought with her members of the old Bandolera team, ensuring a seamless continuation of the brand, which went into administration earlier this year. The label’s s/s 14 line will be the first under Cornelissen’s leadership and sees a tighter offering, with four spring ranges instead of six, plus one flash summer collection instead of two, with prices 10 per cent lower than previously. However, the brand remains committed to the 35-55 age group with a stronger focus on fashion items than basics. Cocomo Agency, the long-standing UK representative of the label, will continue to handle sales for the brand in the UK, while all previous 10 European agents have also been reinstated. “We expect the transition to be smooth, as most of my clients received early spring 2013 deliveries, and many are unaware that Bandolera had gone into administration, so s/s 14 will be business as usual,” says agent Sharon Beatty, owner of Cocomo. —
BOURNE LAUNCHES NEW LABEL Women’s footwear brand Bourne launches new sister label Lizianne this season, offering a diversified range of occasion footwear at a lower price point. The brand, which will make its debut at Moda Footwear in August, comprises elegant and wearable styles designed around a philosophy of combining luxurious aesthetics at accessible retail prices. Targeting the wedding, race-day and cocktail sectors, the debut collection includes five stories for s/s 14, with wholesale prices ranging from £21.60 to £38. — FASHION SVP SHOWCASES PRODUCTION STRENGTH Over 70 handpicked suppliers from the UK, Europe, Eastern Europe and the Mediterranean will be showcasing their production capabilities at this season’s Fashion SVP, to be held on 22-24 September at London’s Olympia. The three-day event is aimed exclusively at those who buy direct from factories and provides an authoritative showcase of “near-shore” sourcing. Covering manufacturing across all fashion sectors, including womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, as well as denim and many other product types, the show also hosts comprehensive conference sessions with high-profile industry speakers such as retailers, brands, trend forecasters and legal specialists. — SALES GROWTH FOR TED BAKER Ted Baker has reported an increase of 32.7 per cent in revenue for the sales period from 27 January to 15 June this year. The rise, which is in direct comparison to the same period last year, has been attributed to the “continued investment in people and infrastructure to support the long term development of the brand.” Wholesale revenue specifically was 41 per cent up on the same period last year, while international growth saw the brand expand throughout Asia and open its first concession in France.
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NEWS REVIEW —
COGGLES ACQUIRED BY THE HUT GROUP Women’s and men’s indie Coggles has been acquired by multi-website online retailer The Hut Group. The York independent, which retailed a portfolio of over 200 menswear and womenswear labels through both its bricks-and-mortar outlets on the city’s Low Petergate and its transactional website, went into administration on 7 May this year. The acquisition of the retailer’s assets will see Coggles continue trading as an online-only fashion retailer. “Unfortunately, most of the interest we received was from potential purchasers wanting to acquire the online side of Coggles’ business, which represented the bulk of turnover, rather than for its retail outlets,” says Andy Clay of administrator Begbies Traynor in York. “This means that the stores in York have closed and the remaining staff have been made redundant. While it is sad to see Coggles disappear from the high street, it is positive that the business will continue as part of a successful specialist online retail group.” —
DEBENHAMS INVESTS £25M IN LONDON FLAGSHIP Debenhams is investing £25m into the refurb and expansion of its London flagship on Oxford Street – the biggest investment to date in the store’s 200-year history. With an additional trading floor, the shop will stretch over seven storeys of retail space, with every department redesigned and reconfigured to create a new in-store experience. The refurbed store will house Debenhams’ biggest ever beauty hall, more designer departments across three floors of fashion, the biggest ever shoe hall and lingerie department, a new menswear department on the first floor, as well as three new cafes and restaurants. The extensive development will culminate in a new exterior for the department store, using an innovative over-cladding system and featuring a “kinetic facade”, a first for the UK, which will move in response to the wind. Work has already begun on the comprehensive programme, which is set to take a year. —
DRESS RANGE FOR DIFFERENT BODY SHAPES Personal stylist and owner of style website Joy of Clothes, Michaela Jedinak has launched a dress collection consisting of seven dresses for seven different body shapes. The Michaela Jedinak London range promises to complement most body shapes. Figure-flattering silhouettes have been created with an emphasis on shoulders, necklines, seaming, darts and vents, providing a visual balance by creating or embracing curves. The range comprises classic silhouettes such as the shift, A-line, body-con, full skirt, fitted and asymmetric design, matching each body shape with the right dress. The inaugural collection is available in red, reflecting the confident attitude of the wearer. — ASOS LAUNCHES REAL-TIME PARCEL TRACKING Online retailer Asos has stepped up its delivery service with the launch of its new Follow My Parcel scheme. The scheme carries no extra charge for the consumer, and allows delivery times to be narrowed down to a 15-minute window. Launched in conjunction with courier DPD, the development is part of a wider move by Asos to “continually exceed customer expectations” through its online fulfilment. — APPEARHERE LAUNCHES DESTINATION GUIDE Pop-up shop marketplace AppearHere.co.uk has launched Destinations, a new web tool that provides individuals and businesses looking for suitable short-term retail space with vital information about retail areas, customer demographic and neighbouring attractions. Designed in an editorial style, the tool currently covers six London districts including Soho, Camden, Covent Garden, Chelsea & Fulham, Bloomsbury & Fitzrovia and Shoreditch, and will be extended to all major UK cities, as well as international hotspots such as Paris and New York, over the coming months.
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NEWS REVIEW —
THIRD EDITION OF INDEPENDENT RETAILER MONTH
START-UP HELP FOR GLOBAL BRANDS LAUNCHING IN LONDON
British shoppers are being urged to get behind their local businesses by buying independent this month. Spearheaded by retail guru Clare Rayner, Independent Retail Month, taking place throughout July, is now in its third year, and will once again see communities across the country organise promotions and special events to celebrate the vibrant retail scenes in their local communities.
A service for international brands wanting to open retail stores in London is launching this month, providing insider knowledge and commercial expertise to navigate the intricacies of trading in the UK.
“There are some 192,000 independent businesses in the UK occupying almost 250,000 shops, and the more that take part in Independent Retailer Month, the stronger they will become,” says Rayner. “Now in its third year, the campaign could not be more important – only a few weeks ago it was revealed that the number of empty shops across the UK has hit an all-time high and the only way to stem further closures is for retailers to be pro-active and not only remind local customers that they’re here, but to give them more reasons to visit.” Events organised for this year’s campaign include a prize draw in Mansfield, Nottinghamshire, and a shopping crawl in Letchworth, Hertfordshire. —
LDN Retail is a partnership of four specialist companies – property expert Shackleton, PR and marketing consultancy Lamb to Slaughter, law firm RLS and retail design company Popstore. Between them, they offer an advice service to fast-track international firms unfamiliar with British business practice onto the London retail scene. —
LONDON BOUTIQUES RELAUNCHES Online marketplace London-Boutiques.com has relaunched following investment from private investment firm Venrex. The website, which brings together some of the best London boutiques in one online offer, and currently works with 30 high-profile indies such as Iris, Trilogy, D&Me and Austique, has been collaborating with famous fashion personalites including Poppy Delevigne, DisneyRollerGirl and My Fash Diary to create new features and content. Future plans include the further expansion of its boutique network, as well as the launch of a new section called Best of British in September. It will see London-Boutiques.com not only work with stores, but also directly with well-known British brands, with key pieces curated for the website by head buyer Amanda Crossley. —
NEW LINE-UP AT FLIP Urban trade show Flip has diversified for its third edition this season, welcoming new labels across the surf, denim, street and lifestyle sectors. Taking place at Birmingham’s NEC on 11-13 August, the exhibition will be accompanied by live catwalk shows and networking events across the three days. Making its Flip debut this season, Reef arrives with a vibrant range of washed-out brights and toned-down neons, while fellow debutante Bjorn Borg showcases a range of statement styles across its intimate apparel line for both women and men for s/s 14. Returning labels, meanwhile, include MOD, Billabong and Timezone. — HUNTER EXPANDS SENIOR MANAGEMENT TEAM Boot company Hunter has expanded its senior management team with four high-profile appointments across finance, design, e-commerce and communications. Ken Pratt has been appointed as chief financial officer, while Niall Sloan joins Hunter as Global Design Director and will oversee the development and design of all product categories. Dan Lumb, meanwhile, has taken up the position of online director, overseeing all global online functions and the further development of the e-commerce business. Finally, Ali Lowry is joining the team as global communications director. — SHOPPERS SEEK INCREASED INDIE PRESENCE Almost half of consumers – 47 per cent – would most like to see empty high-street units turned into independent stores, according to a new survey commissioned by creative agency Live & Breathe. The research, which polled a focus group of 1,000 shoppers, found that most felt despondent at the increasing number of betting shops, fast-food restaurants and estate agents, and would ideally like to see a more diverse mix of independent retailers for a more eclectic high street.
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BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —
ROYAL WARRANT FOR JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN
FIRST FASHION SHOW AT HOC UKFT AND GRADUATE FASHION WEEK TEAMED UP LAST MONTH TO HOST THE FIRST EVER FASHION SHOW INSIDE THE HOUSE OF COMMONS. THE EVENT, HOSTED BY DAMIAN COLLINS, MP AND CHAIRMAN OF THE ALL-PARTY PARLIAMENTARY GROUP FOR FASHION AND TEXTILES, ALSO MARKED THE LAUNCH OF UKFT’S 2013 MANIFESTO, WHICH CALLED ON THE GOVERNMENT TO SUPPORT SKILLS, EDUCATION AND TRAINING.
CBE FOR DINAH CAINE — Dinah Caine, CEO of Creative Skillset, has been honoured with a CBE in the Queen’s 2013 Birthday Honours list in recognition of her services to the UK’s creative industries. —
NEW FORMAT CLOTHES SHOW TV LAUNCHES Clothes Show TV went live on YouTube last month, presenting bite-sized entertainment content from around the world of fashion three times a week. Designed to educate, inform and inspire with the Clothes Show audience, the content of www.youtube.com/clothesshowTV includes interviews with fashion designers such as Henry Holland and Zandra Rhodes, as well as fashion experts Hilary Alexander and Caryn Franklin. ▼
Surfwear brand O’Neill has appointed singer and songwriter Ben Howard as its brand ambassador. A passionate surfer since the age of 11 thanks to an active upbringing on the south-west coast of England, Howard’s affinity with the brand’s values proved the perfect match.
Last month the Prince of Wales and Duchess of Cornwall visited the Hawick factory of British knitwear label Johnstons of Elgin, presenting the brand with The Royal Warrant in recognition of its manufacture and supply of Estate Tweed cloth to the Royal household. The royal couple met with many of the label’s staff and apprentices, as well as being introduced to local Kelso hill farmers, growers of the Cheviot wool used in Johnstons of Elgin’s tweed. “The visit is a great honour for us all at Johnstons, and we are delighted to have been awarded The Royal Warrant,” says director James Sugden. “We have been weaving these cloths continuously in our mills for over 200 years and they are part of our heritage.” —
Design Museum to host Paul Smith exhibition British designer Paul Smith is set to become the subject of the Design Museum’s latest exhibition, showcasing photographs, installations and designs. Entitled Hello, My Name is Paul Smith, the exhibit will run from 15 November 2013 to 9 March 2014. Highlights will include a section showcasing and celebrating the brand through collections, chosen by the designer himself, highlighting the principles of traditional craftsmanship of tailoring and techniques. —
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EXPERIENCE MORE AT MODA
11-13 AUGUST 2013 NEC BIRMINGHAM
THE UK’S LARGEST TRADE FASHION EXHIBITION IS GETTING READY TO HOST THE MUST-SEE BRANDS FROM ACROSS THE WOMENSWEAR SECTOR. PREPARE FOR THE ULTIMATE BUYING EXPERIENCE WITH OUR GUIDE TO THIS SEASON’S MODA.
The Moda Woman bill is hotting up, as key brands across the industry reveal the new directions for spring. This season sees the exhibition play host to a diverse range of new labels, including Dubai ethical fashion brand Shefali Couture. Established in 2011, the label specialises in trend-led ethical fashion and focuses on the gothic influences of Broadway shows such as Phantom of the Opera for s/s 14. Braintree Clothing, meanwhile, takes an ethereal direction for summer, arriving at Moda Woman for the first time with a range of its signature bamboo jersey and organic cotton dresses in a summer palette of coral, cool steel grey and fresh mint green. Moda Woman also welcomes back its key exhibitors for the new season, including John Charles, Seasalt, Marble, Steilmann and Linea Rafaelli.
Presenting an edited selection of international womenswear labels, Moda White focuses on contemporary style for the directional sector of the womenswear industry. This season sees Moda White welcome Paola, a Polish womenswear label focusing on contemporary, softer eventwear with a hint at Great Gatsby inspired opulence and a striking identity that transcends the age demographics. Also debuting at Moda White, Zuppe is set to make an impact with a bright and bold collection of graphic printed T-shirts and dresses. Fellow Moda White debutantes Effusive and Lovejunkie focus on strong statement styles through exaggerated patterns. Moda White also welcomes back returning labels Roberto Naldi, Sahara, Two Danes, James Lakeland, Eva Tralala and Elisa Calvaletti.
ADORNED AT MODA ACCESSORIES RETURNS Following its successful launch last season, Adorned at Moda Accessories will host a variety of new and returning labels specialising in niche and quirky accessories. Newcomer Bizinti will debut its unique collection of hand-painted fused glass jewellery, while fellow jewellery label Eliza Gracious returns with a new range of pretty, freshwater and crystal pieces. New signing Larah England will also feature in Adorned at Moda Accessories, presenting a range of soft-washed, high-quality leather bags. Elsewhere in Moda Accessories, bag specialists are set to make an impact, with Makki, Mirage and Bolla all returning to the show. Bulaggi also joins them to showcase its edgy take on a range of classic handbag designs embellished with metal chains and studs. Footwear accessories label Boot Candy returns to Moda Accessories, while Jewelcity, Casa di Stella and Suzie Blue unveil their latest offers for spring at the exhibition.
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BUSINESS CRITICAL SEMINARS Moda’s acclaimed seminar programme returns to Hall 17 and Hall 20 this s/s. The insightful seminars, run by business leaders and experts, cover a range of industry topics, giving knowledge and practical advice to help develop your business. SPEAKERS INCLUDE:
SPECIALIST CATWALK SHOWS
JOIN THE COMMUNITY
The industries’ hottest brands will feature in Hall 17, with fashion, evening & occasionwear and lingerie & swimwear catwalk shows. In addition, the catwalk theatre in Hall 20 will see the footwear & accessories catwalk make a welcome return after launching last season, as well as men’s tailoring & lifestyle and urban & contemporary catwalks. Both catwalks also welcome a host of specially selected industry experts delivering a comprehensive programme of seminars. Plan what you want to see on the Moda website. —
With so much going on around the show, it pays to prepare. The Moda Community offers you an essential online planning resource all year round. Open to all buyers, it gives you the facilities to organise and schedule appointments and make and follow up contacts with brands. The website also provides useful information about how to get to the show, what’s happening around the halls and the latest brand and industry news. —
MODA ON THE MOVE If you are on the move, the Moda app is another great way to keep up-to-date and get the latest news from the event once you are there. Essential updates are available in the lead up to the show. Find out more at moda-uk.co.uk. — Sahara
WINE, DINE AND NETWORK Networking opportunities abound at Moda this season, with social events providing another chance to link up with new contacts. With the choice of fine dining at Hampton Manor or a barbecue at the Beeches, Moda’s Monday night events offer something to suit everyone’s style and preference. Beeches: £20pp, Hampton Manor: £40pp (includes drinks reception, three course meal and half bottle of wine). Email Caroline Mackinnon to book your tickets at email@example.com or call +44 (0)1484 846069. —
EMAIL MARKETING ON A BUDGET Nick Evans, technical director, Extra Mile Communications 1.00pm – 1.30pm, Hall 20 Tuesday 13 August Boost your business through email marketing with Nick’s guide to communicating with a range of different customers, keeping costs low and making each email count. GETTING YOUR BUSINESS ONLINE Warren Knight, CEO, Gloople 12.15pm – 12.45pm, Hall 17 3.00pm – 3.30pm, Hall 20 Monday 12 August This seminar is a must for anyone thinking of opening an online store or looking to improve online sales, with online retail expert Warren Knight sharing his top tips. 10 STEPS TO VISUAL RETAIL SUCCESS Eve Reid, director and founder, Metamorphosis Group 12.00pm – 12.30pm, Hall 20 3.00pm – 3.30pm, Lingerie & Swimwear Retail Theatre, Hall 17 Sunday 11 August In today’s retail environment making a good first impression has never been so important. Discover the secret to maximising your sales through the art of visual merchandising in this dynamic and inspirational seminar. CONSULTANTS: HOW BEST TO INVEST Anne Horton, founder, Tonik Retail 3.00pm – 3.30pm, Hall 17 Monday 12 August Anne Horton, previous MD of Hoopers, shares her wealth of knowledge from an impressive career in retail, giving her top tips for how investing in a consultant could be a wise move in today’s climate and how to turn that investment into profit. THE NEW DIRECTION FOR WOMENSWEAR S/S 14 Sandrine Maggiani, trend specialist, Stylesight 2.15pm – 2.45pm, Hall 17 Sunday 11 August Get an exclusive insight into next season’s hottest trends, exploring the colour palettes, styles, shapes and materials that are set to be big in s/s 14.
To see the latest updates on the Moda seminar programme visit moda-uk.co.uk
For information on all the latest signings and to register for your free ticket to the show, visit moda-uk.co.uk
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TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issue that affect womenswear. —
INDUSTRY NEEDS “READY TO WEAR” LINES IN THE TRUE SENSE OF THE WORD
IS THERE A NEED FOR AN “INDIE STOCK SWAP”?
Buying for another spring/summer season is well under way, and it is interesting to see how the industry has adapted to the unreliable weather and general gloom surrounding this once fail-safe period.
Recently, a simple but so obvious idea struck me. With the weather doing its utmost best to make things “just a little bit difficult for us”, I was thinking about what we retailers can do to liven up our businesses.
Always known as the “longest season”, with full-price sales traditionally spanning January to July, summer always gave the opportunity to take a few more risks. With a glorious six months to sell at full price, it allowed retailers to mix it up by showcasing new brands and trying something different or more adventurous. Business is different now, compared with 10, or even five, years ago. It’s tougher, that’s a given, and buying patterns have had to change, too, but it doesn’t mean we have to stop experimenting with buying options. With spring arriving so late (if at all) our unpredictable climates are changing the face of our industry, and it’s the smart designers who are changing and evolving with it. It is much more common these days to see companies offer the first spring deliveries in November. Taking advantage of the Christmas trade and cashing in on the footfall of your winter sale makes sense. Of course, the merchandise has to be right, though. Hauber has offered an early spring delivery for many years with much success. My designers put a lot of thought into the special retailing period and, among other factors, colours must be spot on for the “ready to wear” attitude. The collection must work perfectly for pre-Christmas trade but also be adaptable to sit with the brighter merchandise that comes later with a more colourful palette. “Buy it, wear it” is the philosophy behind the capsules, and the right weights are also key. With the unpredictable, ever-changing climate throughout the world, transitional seasons have never been so important, with clever buyers adapting their OTB and spreading their budgets over the year. Limiting budgets to the stereotypical and traditionally set seasons of old is no longer an option. The other advantage of an early delivery, of course, is swapping stock. Hauber and many other honourable companies pride themselves on offering a second-to-none stock-swap service. If merchandise is sticking or the time has passed on an early capsule, it is an advantage to be able to swap into something more weather appropriate. More and more companies are offering this special accommodation, which can only help your sell-through, and I think it’s a real deciding factor when taking on a new supplier. —
Diane Sykes is sales manager of Hauber UK.
Most of us will be all too familiar with this scenario: A collection arrives that we raved over the day we penned our order. Then, when it hits the rails six months down the line and flies out of the shop, we wish we had bought more of it. Equally, it’s just as common to experience the complete opposite and think, “Why on earth did I buy this?” You get the picture. So what do we do? Call our respective agents, who brush us off by saying, “No one else has a problem with that style.” Surely these same agents who, at their showrooms in buying season, ply us with coffee, not always a biscuit, the odd sandwich maybe, could make a few calls to other indies to help us more with the “no goers” that may work in other areas, or help us get more of the ones that work for us. So the idea of an Indie Stock Swap occurred to me. Now, I know it is possibly extremely difficult to implement, but surely there must be a way, as an industry and independents, we can all pull together and help each other out. Just imagine – no more “dead rubbers” and hopefully more sales of our winners just by swapping or trading between us in season, possibly even finding something from previous seasons that would really impress our regulars. Now, wouldn’t that make people sit up and take notice? Comments through WWB please. —
David Greenberg is the owner of womenswear indie Chex in Bexley, Kent.
HAUBER EXCITING & NEW Ask Juergen Leuthe about the success behind the repositioning of the family run business Hauber and he is keen to point out it has always been known for its casual luxury and outstanding quality. ‘Women love it when luxury meets casual’ says Juergen Leuthe, C.E.O for Hauber International Gmbh and fifth generation direct descendent of the Hauber family. Originally launched back in 1870, the label is constantly evolving in order to stay true to the company’s ethos of style over fashion luxury casual being the backbone of the business. Leuthe continues, “Women love being well dressed, emphasizing their personality through fashion, and it’s the Hauber attention to detail that makes each piece so unique and sets them apart” Leuthe’s passion for the label is clear and working closely with the highly talented team at the brand’s location in Germany, he maintains, is the recipe for the continued success. “Hauber is a collection for the catwalk of life, constantly changing, fascinating and different.” He goes on to explain “By carefully selecting high quality materials, our remarkable workmanship and sophisticated designs all come together resulting in a flawless product that stands on its own two feet. Each look is a sophisticated interaction that puts the wearer in the limelight in a casual, yet charming way. This is Hauber’s unique appeal”
The flagship showroom based in London’s west end - Wells St, remains the hub of the U.K and Irish markets, although Hauber are also set to add Scoop to their itinerary of international shows. UK Sales Manager, Diane Sykes explains “I have been showing S/S2014 since the beginning of June and the reaction to the collection has been hugely successful. It will be great to take Hauber to Scoop as I know retailers are searching for something different, and it is exciting that Hauber is providing it. There is definitely room in the market for something new and fresh” A skilful mix of clean lines, sporty elements and feminine details are showcased in this spring/summer collection. Sykes continues “We have three really strong groups for the earlier deliveries of spring. The designers have put a great deal of thought into this special retailing period resulting in the wow ‘Get Graphic’ pre-Christmas story of monochrome, an eastern inspired ‘Go west’ navy and lilac group, and ‘Walking on Sunshine’ which integrates whites and cool greys with pop lemon accents and a fabulous altered animal print.”
“Hauber is a collection for the catwalk of life. Constantly changing, fascinating & different.”
To view spring/summer 2014 Call Diane Sykes on: 020 7323 6100 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org 56 Wells St, London W1T 3PT Showing at Scoop, Phillips Gallery, 21st - 23rd July 2013
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THE BIG WWB E-COMMERCE SUR Is your website transactional?
If you don’t currently have one, do you plan to launch a transactional website?
Yes 63% Yes 51%
When do you plan to invest in a transactional website?
What level of investment do you envisage?
2% Within the next 12 months
Within the next 18-24 months
Within the next 5 years
Up to £5,000
£5,000 - £10,000
£10,000 - £20,000
What level of investment did you spend on your existing transactional website?
Under 10% 10-20% 20-30% 30-40% 40-50% 50-60% 60+%
Up to £5,000
£5,000 - £10,000
8% £10,000 - £20,000
What percentage of your overall revenue does your transactional website constitute?
56% 22% 3% 2% 5% 2% 10%
25 WOMENSWEAR BUYER â€” JULY 2013
WWB quizzed womenswear indies about their online businesses and development plans.
Are you planning on growing your e-commerce business?
How does your product offer online compare to your in-store offer?
8% No 3%
Does your transactional website generate overseas business, or just UK business?
Under 10% 10-20% 20-30% 30-40% 40-50% 50-60% 60+%
UK and overseas
Does your transactional website generate repeat business or mainly new business?
15% Attracts a Attracts a different different geographical demographic catchment
What percentage of your business do you project online will become over the next 3-5 years?
Do you plan to update or redevelop your website over the next 12-18 months?
51% 34% 15%
12% 29% 31% 6% 4% 4% 14%
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Craig Alexander — THE DESIGN DIRECTOR BEHIND CASH CA TELLS CHRISTINA WILLIAMS HOW THE KNITWEAR BRAND IS SPINNING A WHOLE NEW THREAD FOR S/S 14 AND BEYOND. —
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Christina Williams: Fourteen years on from its inception, Cash Ca has established a wide-ranging presence across the UK and overseas – what’s your secret? Craig Alexander: When we launched the brand in 1999, I think the UK market was crying out for everything that we still stand for; a traditional approach to both quality and service with a modern handwriting that redresses the perception of knitwear. Our point of difference from the start was to do things differently, which is why we only focused on knitwear and were committed to creating a product that would slot into retailers’ environments. It’s an ongoing process, but we have built up a strong business and loyal consumer. CW: How did the Cash Ca concept come about? CA: The founding director, Peter Swithenback, spent 10 years working with high-end cashmere manufacturers in Inner Mongolia as a technical consultant and built up a good relationship with the spinners out there. He established a factory in the area and was producing knitwear for some top-end labels in the UK. Meanwhile, I was head of design for John Smedley and had spent five years transforming the brand from a traditional knitwear brand to a contemporary label. Our plan when we were introduced was to launch our own brand. And, because there was no background to Cash Ca other than the experience of its founders, we were able to establish from the outset that the brand would have an identity that went beyond a traditional knitwear label. CW: What is Cash Ca’s point of difference? CA: We don’t slavishly follow knitwear trends. In fact, for us, trends are about the wider womenswear spectrum, and we design our products with those seasonal styles and themes in mind. Layering, for example, has been a strong look and, because we develop the actual fabric as well as the garment, it’s a
“OUR RETAILERS ARE OUR PARTNERS. WE DON’T CLAIM TO KNOW EVERYTHING ABOUT RETAIL, WHICH IS WHY WE WORK WITH STRONG RETAILERS WHO DO”
look we can create very well. We were always committed to creating a strong summer product, even though we are a cashmere specialist and cashmere is traditionally associated with the autumn season. We have created a fine linen silk in three summer weights accordingly and, in terms of sales volume, our sales are evenly distributed throughout the year. CW: Is there a demand from your retailers to create a more diverse collection that goes beyond knitwear? CA: There is, but we like to stay true to our roots. We evolve by creating unusual styles of knitwear and, for s/s 14, have introduced a high-twist summer cotton that is almost like a woven fabric with a lovely drape that doesn’t cling or crease. It’s ideal for A-line dresses, longer line cardigans and boxier shapes and adds a new dimension to the collection. It’s perfect for the retailers we work with. CW: How integral are your independent stockists to your business model? CA: Our retailers are our partners. We don’t claim to know everything about retail, which is why we work with strong retailers who do. Our product is not the sort to lend itself to being sold online. It’s often sold as part of a wider sale, and that requires a skilled member of retail staff to guide the consumer through the process. We have a strong relationship with end consumers, but we do not sell online, which I realise is unusual these days; we refer customers to their nearest independent stockist, where they can immerse themselves in the product and the buying environment. I strongly believe there will be a return to that model of buying. CW: Are you looking to expand your portfolio of stockists? CA: We are always targeting the stores that we would love to work with. We consistently monitor our web interest and approach specific retailers to let them know there is an
interest in our product in their region. We currently work with around 75 retailers nationwide, but would like to increase our focus on the North of England and Scotland. It’s been a tough few seasons, but we are glad to see we haven’t lost any stockists, except for a few that have sadly ceased trading. CW: How is your overseas operation developing? CA: We have a distributor in Japan and opened stores in Beijing and Tokyo, which is simply how business operates in the Far East. We are sold through the wider retail concepts owned by our distributors, although around 70 per cent of the in-store product is Cash Ca. The brand is well-received overseas, particularly on the men’s side. It’s been a roundabout way of doing things because men’s knitwear is such a tough nut to crack in the UK and yet, since it has taken off overseas, UK customers have been showing more of an interest. CW: How does the popularity of women’s styles differ in your overseas markets? CA: It’s an ongoing learning process for us with every collection we produce. The body shape of consumers is so different across the globe that certain designs popular in the UK – such as boyfriend styles – are simply too extreme a shape for the Far East customer. The market is also more conservative despite the fact that the consumer demographic is relatively young, so anything like a deep V neckline doesn’t work as well as it does in the UK. CW: Is your British background an integral element of Cash Ca’s heritage? CA: It is in terms of how we approach the design of our collections and the service we deliver. Cash Ca is all about doing things in a traditional way and, although we manufacture overseas, this was a decision taken because we had relationships with spinners who had the capacity and skills to produce to our high standards. We do produce a capsule collection in the UK that is popular overseas, but our British identity is more about our values and heritage. CW: What do you have planned for s/s 14 and beyond? CA: Spring will see us introduce three new colour stories – a 60s-inspired palette, luxurious darks and tinted neutrals. Along with our new, high-twist summer cotton, it’s an exciting season for us with regards to shape and silhouette. There are a lot of retailers who are still seeking a quality product with a modern handwriting, and that’s what we are all about. |
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STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month. —
STYLE FLASH — Ruby & Ed has launched its latest collection of luxurious pyjamas and loungewear, perfect for lazy days and weekends away. —
▲ COTTON WITH A CONSCIENCE Ethical brand Apoccas offers luxurious organic cotton shawls and wraps that promote Thai Master weaving traditions and artisanal skills of ancient Siam. The designs are hand-woven and dyed with botanical dye, with retail prices ranging between £99 and £126. The brand reinvests a share of its profits back into rural communities to help support the traditional craftsmanships used. —
IN GOOD SHAPE Lingerie brand La Figurelle is introducing a new high-waisted brief for its Ciel line. The style has a medium to light shaping tummy panel, flattering mesh detail on the back that supports and shapes and is adorned with silver baroque ribbon and bows. — © Kim Jakobsen
Dirty Pretty Things is introducing its first swimwear collection featuring powerful prints and contrasting colours on a range of bikinis, one-pieces and luxurious loungewear. —
▲ UNNATURAL NATURE Thu Thu’s a/w 13 collection, named Unnatural nature, has a surrealistic take on flora and fauna, interpreted through the use of a tonal colour palette. Hues of pink and red are transposed with black and shades of concrete greys. Screen-printed corduroy and digital tie-dyed silks form the basis for the range. —
P1 Footwear is the first nightlife shoe collection made for the legendary Munich club, P1. High-heel, avant-garde styles and unique sneakers made of futuristic metallics feature in the range, which is now available for international wholesale. —
STYLE FLASH — Jewellery brand Gia Belloni creates unusual pieces made with computer-aided technology and traditional goldsmithing, featuring precious metals, stones and enamelling. —
Crazy for plimsolls Flossy is the go-to brand when it comes to this season’s biggest footwear craze, plimsolls. The label, which originates in Spain and has been making plimsolls for over 25 years, has become the staple of the Ibiza clubbing scene, and is making its mark in the UK. —
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STOCK UPDATE —
THE 10 BEST
STYLE TIP — Don’t think of shorts as just summer items, but give them a trans-seasonal makeover and team with funky tights to carry them through into autumn. —
STYLE TIP — Whether textured, printed, coloured or classic denim – shorts are versatile and can be dressed up or down from day to evening. —
Summer may have made a late appearance this year, but the more reason to make the most of rays of sunshine with quirky shorts, available from short order now. —
01 Quiksilver, price on request, 020 7392 4020 02 Yumi, £12, 020 7636 9484 03 Miss Patina, £17.80, 020 3490 3138 04 Ruby Rocks, £18, 07973 718301 05 Joules, £17.75, 01858 435258
06 Lavish Alice, £8, 07896 972997 07 Joules, £16.65, 01858 435258 08 Soaked in Luxury, £19.67, 020 8871 2155 09 Vero Moda, £9.33, 020 7650 2041 10 Samsoe & Samsoe, £21, 0845 862 2056
Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale
34 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2013
FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now. —
MUTHER OF ALL THINGS
Launched a year ago, designer Charlotte Simpson is targeting high-end indies across the UK and internationally this season.
Debuting its apparel line this season, Australian label Muther Of All Things (MOAT) is following in the footsteps of its internationally successful swimwear collection.
Signature style: An elegant and refined signature runs through the range with purist lines, attention to detail and craftsmanship.
Signature style: MOAT is recognisable for its bespoke graphic prints that combine organic, geometric and architectural forms and create the backdrop for relaxed and easy dressing.
Since graduating in fashion in 2009 from Northumbria University, designer Charlotte Simpson has won the Zandra Rhodes Catwalk Textiles award at Graduate Fashion Week and completed an MA in fashion design and technology at the London College of Fashion. Having gained experience at the likes of DKNY, Amanda Wakeley and Julian Macdonald, Simpson took the plunge last year to launch her own label. Targeting the affluent 25-50 age group, the collection offers immaculate and yet effortless pieces that combine contemporary design with classic features, giving them longevity. Among the predicted bestsellers for a/w 13 is a two-tone black and ivory embroidered cape and ivory embroidery trimmed dresses. —
Inspired by the cosmopolitan surf culture of her home town Byron Bay in Australia, designer Joceline Godfrey launched MOAT three years ago, initially as a swimwear-only line. The collections were quickly recognised for their originality and skilful fusion of fashion and function with a network of international stockists and own flagship store. With its resort collection for 2013/14, the brand is now making its foray into apparel, having extended its distinct style to easy to wear wardrobe essentials such as silk kimonos, jersey dresses and knitted jersey loungewear. The label sits alongside the likes of Anna & Boy, Zimmermann, Mara Hoffman and Lisa Fernandez, with wholesale prices ranging from £46 to £75 for swimwear and £37 to £77 for apparel. The brand is stocked in Urban Outfitters, Free People and Mod Cloth, and is looking to expand in the UK through leading independent boutiques and premium department stores. —
â€œHouse of ethnically inspired fashion forward classicsâ€? www.shefalicouture.com Email: email@example.com
Size range: 8-30 GODSKE CLASSIC GODSKE LEISUREWEAR KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL WHIMSY FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA JAGRO THAT’S ME BY JAGRO — PRE COLLECTIONS — London Showroom Monday 1 July - Friday 2 August 2013 Dublin Showroom Monday 1 July - Friday 2 August 2013 MAIN COLLECTIONS — CPD Dusseldorf 19 - 23 July 2013 Fashion House 1, 2nd Floor Room 247 - 251 London Showroom also open Sunday 4 August - weekend of Pure CIFF Copenhagen 8 - 11 August 2013 Bella Centre stand B3 - 241 Moda Woman 11 - 13 August 2013 NEC Birmingham, Hall 18 stand no I 14 Dubin Showroom Fashion City from Wednesday14 August 2013. With a Special Event on Sunday 25 August to Tuesday 27 August 2013 LONDON SHOWROOM Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP. Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org DUBLIN SHOWROOM Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24. Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043
38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2013
RIDING THE WAVE Icelandic women’s lifestyle brand Nikita is pressing ahead with a global expansion drive and broader product selection that is bringing its action sports philosophy to a wider audience. Isabella Griffiths speaks to founder Heida Birgisdottir about the success of the label and the plans ahead. —
celand may be known for many things, but fashion design is not one that springs to mind. It’s impressive then, that a small independent women’s street and activewear label has become one of the country’s most successful exports. Founded in 1999 by Heida Birgisdottir, the range was initially a personal project while she was working in a board sports store in Reykjavik, creating styles she couldn’t find elsewhere for herself. “I grew up surrounded by the ocean and living just outside the mountains in Iceland,” says Birgisdottir. “I loved snowboarding, skateboarding, surfing and fashion and, while working in a board sport store on the main street in Reykjavik, I started handmaking designs to suit me and my lifestyle that I couldn’t find anywhere else. Seeing what I was creating was of interest to others, it organically grew to a larger scale, and eventually Nikita was born and manufacturing initiated.” The brand philosophy has always been to provide design and clothes “for girls who ride”, encompassing everything from skating through surfing to riding. “I was able to launch a women’s action sports brand driven by a woman, designed with women in mind,” says Birgisdottir. The brand was ticking along nicely and had built a name in the action and lifestyle world when sportswear giant Amer Sports appeared in the frame and acquired the brand in December 2011, giving Nikita access to better and bigger resources to take it to
the next level. “The move [integration with Amer Sports] was about continuing the development and expansion of Nikita, not about changing it,” says Birgisdottir. “Amer Sports knew about Nikita, recognised what we were doing and believed in us. With its support, resources and business acumen, the drive forward is well focused and directional.” Over the last 18 months or so, Nikita has therefore been pushing ahead and has not only been expanding in geographical terms, but also in respect of product development. While the majority of its sales had mainly come from exports across Europe, Amer’s involvement has seen Nikita venture further afield, successfully developing the US market, as well as Canada and Asia. In the UK, Nikita has also been making headway and gaining increased market share, with distribution having gone in-house at Amer Sports UK. Birgisdottir feels that the UK is key to the brand’s future development and has her sights on nothing less than becoming “a major partner to the UK retail scene”, as she says. “The UK is important for us and represents huge potential,” says Birgisdottir. “It’s a mature and vibrant market with a multicultural and diverse demographic. We are looking to expand on our current stockist network for the s/s 14 line, increase brand awareness and overall reach. Our goal is to build a distribution network that matches our consumer shopping pattern. We want to be considered in the
39 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2013
“There are not many exclusive women’s brands that can say they are truly for, about and designed by a woman who shares the same passions as they do”
purchasing decision of our target group and more importantly, be available to them,” she adds, indicating that a roll-out of shop-in-shops is also on the cards. In product terms, Nikita has also moved to the next stage, and s/s 14 sees the brand focus on a number of product stories that are expanding its current reach. In addition to a successful denim line, there is also Nikita Copson Street, a capsule skate collaboration of more fashion-forward styles; Sand City, an edgy story with new Aztec and geometric prints for girls who lead an active and creative lifestyle; Drift, a surf-inspired sport and street story; Essentials, a range of every day wardrobe staples; and Nikita Life, the latest addition to the Nikita label, featuring soft and flexible styles for every activity, from riding to yoga, running, cycling to going straight to the café to meet friends. “Nikita is a brand that can speak to a broad range of girls – we typically say between 18 and 35 – and on so many different levels. Our heritage in action sports is still an important focus for us and we attract like-minded girls from this area, but we are also appealing to new consumers from other areas, those interested in low-impact sports, too, such as yoga and pilates, which is one reason why we have responded to our growing audiences’ needs with a range inspired by everyday life activities – Nikita Life.” The Nikita customer is divided into Nikita Chickita – 14-24 year olds, and Sideway Sista, 25-35 years old, which are used as reference points to define and understand the mentality of the end consumer. “Nikita Chickita and Sideway Sista are the same girl, just at different stages of her life,” says Birgisdottir. “We use these terms to communicate more relevantly with both groups.” Birgisdottir is still very much in tune with her target
audience, and it is evident that she has herself in mind, too, when she designs, just like 14 years ago in the board sports store in Reykjavik. Nikita’s charm and appeal may also have something to do with the fact that it is a truly international brand, run by a team dotted across Iceland, Portugal and Sweden, which, as Birgisdottir explains, gives the range its own multi-faceted look. “For the designs, David Young and I are based in Reykjavik, an important place for continuous inspiration for us both. Sandra Persson, our denim designer, is based in Sweden, and Jen Irick, our product line manager, in Portugal,” she says. “Marketing and brand management are based in Portugal, too, and with these overall influences, we are truly able to offer a global brand, but still keep things Nikita.” The challenge for Nikita, it seems, is to carry on growing on a global platform while keeping the integrity of its design and philosophy as personal to Birgisdottir and her team as it has been so far. But if she is daunted by the task, she certainly doesn’t show it – instead, there is plenty of ambition and vision going round, determining the future for Nikita. “We have a unique opportunity to build a global brand that has a deep meaning for its target group,” she says. “We are at the beginning of our journey and are building a strong team to support our vision by keeping the values that have allowed Nikita to become a desirable brand. There are not many exclusive women’s brands that can say they are truly for, about and designed by a woman who shares the same passions as they do.”
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SEASON’S PREVIEW SPRING/SUMMER 2014 Spring/summer 2014 provides a welcome boost when it comes to clear, identifiable trends and commercial styles that build on vibrant colours, prints and a play of textures and volumes. From bright pinks and corals through lemon to turquoise, brands have finally embraced colour again, after previous, rather drab summer seasons, and are signaling boldness and confidence in their products. But, fear not, those who prefer a more understated colour palette will not be disappointed, as classic monochromes are given a contemporary and yet interesting makeover, while chic neutrals are also upgraded with metallic finishes and threads. The ever-popular floral prints also make an appearance for spring/summer 2014, particularly on trousers, which move into the spotlight with bold and lively prints and petals. WWB’s comprehensive guide to the season takes a closer look at the trends and key looks that will define the season ahead.
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SAFARI SLICK The experts at Trendstop reveal the key fashion influences for spring/summer 2014. — COLLECTION NEWS The key brands, new launches and developments of the season. — FASHION FOCUS WWB’s brand-by-brand guide. — ONE DIRECTION A look at the spring/summer 2014 offering from contemporary and young fashion labels. —
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An intrepid adventuress travels to Africa and updates the conventional safari look with a super-sartorial chic. Refining the wild Savannah spirit with a new-found elegance, s/s 14 safari styles appear in luxe textures, sleek utility shapes and a wealth of detail interest, transforming a summer classic into an exciting seasonal statement. Here, the experts at London trend forecasting agency Trendstop.com provide an overview of one of the leading trend themes for s/s 14 and some of its key components. —
Paler than classic khaki, nudes infuse the safari look with a chic finish for elegant daywear styles. They add sophistication to sports and utility inspired daywear, and soften the formality of androgynous suiting and smart separates. —
Colour: Safari nude
About Trendstop: Trendstop works with leading retailers to ensure key trends are encapsulated and translated appropriately for the target audience to maximise sales. Register your interest at www.trendstop.com, request a demo or download the Trendstop TrendTracker app from your app store. Join with your company email to receive exclusive professional content.
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Animal prints are clashed together in multi-scale or textured collages in classic colourways and fashion colours such as aquatic blue or lilac to appeal to the younger customer. Metallic pattern overlays add a new dimension to the leopard print. Reworked giraffe spots feel playful on footwear and leather accessories cut in a micro reptile pattern, and contrasted with a yarn fringe for the younger market. —
BeeQueen by Chicca Lualdi
The safari jacket meets lightweight luxury utility this season, combining the feeling for adventure with effortless soft blouse and shirt weights. Utility pockets remain a signature, while fluid silk-satin textures lend a luxe feel. Colourways draw on sumptuous shades of bottle green and caramel to elevate classic khaki. —
Accessories & footwear: Serengeti texture
Silhouette: Safari utility jacket
Print: Animals united
Textures from the Savannah landscape inspire Safari slick accessories and footwear styles, fusing sleek shapes with African craft tactility. Striped necklaces emulate enamel and precious stones in geometric panels, while snakeskin cuffs come trimmed with polished gold. Safari textured bags range from soft suede reptile to luxurious summer pelts, while elegant summer heels draw on straw weave textures and neutral python patterns. —
Accessories & footwear: The tortoiseshell effect The season’s trend for tortoiseshell provides the ideal material for refined accessories and is even seen in footwear. Its rich, honey colour lifts safari khakis and adds a glossy finish. Look to stacked bangles, statement necklaces, belts, polished bags or clutches and strappy sandals or peep-toe mules. — House of Holland
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COLLECTION NEWS The new launches and brand developments for spring/summer 2014. —
NOVELTY DENIM PROMISES FITNESS AND FIGURE BOOST Atelier Gardeur is extending its product range with the introduction of a patented fitness denim, Active Shape, with body activating properties. The innovation is exclusive to the brand and features a patented fibre, Emana by Rhodia, which absorbs natural body heat thanks to its bioactive minerals, and emits remote infrared rays which interact with the body. In doing so it stimulates the metabolism and promotes circulation, which works as daily workout. Active Shape jeans are available as blue denim in two washes, as well as colour denim in 12 shades. —
CREA CONCEPT LAUNCHES EVENING RANGE
LA PETITE ROBE LAUNCHES TO THE UK
French knitwear label Crea Concept is launching Crea Eve for spring/summer 2014, an eveningwear collection inspired by the styling of the main range.
Italian brand La Petite Robe is launching to the UK for spring/summer 2014 through Janet Thurston and Mary Skinner Agencies.
The launch comes in response to customer demand, with stockists having requested an additional line of the brand due to strong sell-throughs. The collection is therefore an extension of the Crea Concept styling, but ventures into the world of evening and occasionwear with a range of dresses, which will be key, as well as unusual knitwear pieces for the evening. The initial line features around 35 styles, and will sit alongside most evening and occasionwear labels while providing a distinct and different look. The brand is distributed in the UK through Crea Concept’s London subsidiary, and will be targeted at existing Crea Concept stockists, as well as new and specialist retailers in the evening and occasionwear sector. —
The label is the brainchild of renowned designer Chiara Boni, and has a celebrity following thanks to its figure-transforming dresses. Inspired by Boni’s busy lifestyle, the collection is based on “the perfect travel wardrobe”, with styles made from eco-friendly and easy care stretch fabric that come folded in organza pouches. The focus of the line is on dresses, however skirts, pants and jackets also feature. Styles range from colourful florals to understated and chic dresses in mono colours, with around 70 pieces in each collection. —
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OLVIS INTRODUCES IN BLOOM Dutch lace specialist Olvis is launching In Bloom, a new dress collection made from stretch silk.
ALL BEAUTIFUL BECOMES ALICE & BARNABE BY ENJOY French brand All Beautiful is changing its name this season to Alice & Barnabe, following difficulties to protect the name on an international level.
The brand bridges the gap between occasionwear and MOB dressing with a short-order turnaround of eight weeks. The dresses offer varying hemlines and optional sleeves, as well as clever cuts to enhance the figure. A vast colour scheme is available, and customers can choose between plain or printed silk, while some dress styles also feature Olvis’ traditional lace. The label is distributed in the UK through fashion agency Maine Trading. —
Alice & Barnabe still represents the label’s original initials, AB, but also plays on the brand’s French heritage, referring to the customer as Alice, and the designer as Barnabe. The spring/summer 2014 range, however, stays true to the label’s heritage, with easy to wear and easy to mix styles key. There are six main colour groups in the collection, each of which have at least four key dress styles. Some designs have been modernised to be extendable to a younger audience, making it a collection with diverse appeal. Look out for a black and white colour scheme, as well as soft pastels and neutrals. —
SARAH LAWRENCE DEBUTS IN THE UK
PIA ROSSINI LAUNCHES RESORT COLLECTION Fashion accessories brand Pia Rossini has launched a resort line for spring/summer 2014. The range covers a number of stylish and versatile beach cover-ups in vibrant prints. Colour stories include nautical blues, red and white, monochrome, pinks, orange and corals. —
Greek brand Sarah Lawrence is launching to the UK this season through Carol C Collections and will be making its official market debut at next month’s Moda. The label is aimed at the 30-plus woman, offering elegant and versatile clothing with an element of fun and unusual details. With a relaxed look, the range is suited to a leisure and work wardrobe, comprising a full collection including jackets, blazers, overcoats, shirts, blouses, tops, T-shirts, trousers and skirts, as well as a denim line. The styles are coordinated but can be bought and worn as separates, allowing a high degree of flexibility. A vibrant and neutral colour scheme is prevalent with the line covering sizes 8-18. —
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PAUSE CAFÉ A new elegance is injected into Pause Cafés latest collection, with the brand’s staple black and white returning for an on-trend look. Dresses remain the highlights of the range, though jackets – chic and sporty – also feature, as well as trousers and blouses. Summer tweeds feature heavily, too, for s/s 14. —
MONOCHROME Monochromes have been a massive hit this season, but for s/s 14 they are set to make an even bigger impact. Whether it’s the timeless black trouser and white shirt combo, new, quirky takes on mono prints and florals, or a stylish juxtaposition of stripes and spots – brands are proving that monochrome need not be classic and boring but has plenty of scope for individuality and fun, too. —
CINQUE Black and white dominates at Cinque this season, with clean, simple cuts and minimalist detailing key. Neon green features as the main accent colour, breaking up what is otherwise an understated and harmonious colour palette. Look out for metallic-look summer jackets and floral trousers, which also stand out in the collection. —
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Italian knitwear and separates collection Guido Lombardi’s offering this season is based on rich luxurious, natural yarns. Predicted bestsellers include cashmere with cotton as well as wool with silk blends, which make for elegant and versatile styles. —
Bianca is referencing all key trends for s/s 14, with elegant monochromes just one of the key colour stories. Corals, turquoise, prints and florals also feature heavily, providing a colour splash for the season. The collection offers relaxed easy to wear styles that coordinate well, with elegant styles ready to be dressed up also key. —
A mix of historical references and a cutting edge, minimal luxury describe the collection at Annette Goertz. Hand-painted stripes are key and are the perfect backdrop for a monochrome story, while buttons and zips give detail to a sophisticated and yet sporty silhouette. —
CLOSED Closed is referencing its silhouettes from menswear this season with baggy pants and slouchy shapes for outerwear, jackets, shirts and jumpers versus short, feminine tops. A play with fabrics is key, including cotton satin, silk, bonded cotton, raw denim, fluid viscose, terry cloth knit and Japanese nylons. —
HAUBER Hauber’s collection for s/s 14 oozes casual cool, teamed with an energetic and sporty undertone. The overall direction is clean and chic, with luxurious textures forming the basis for the range. Look out for monochromes with a modern twist, as well as brighter colour stories such as yellow, metallics and colour pop. —
ADC Following a successful relaunch for a/w, ADC is presenting its first summer collection of contemporary separates. Microfibre fabrics form the basis for flowing dresses, tops and coordinating jackets in a bright and colourful palette. — BASLER Clean, modern lines and feminine prints make a fashion-forward statement in Basler’s collection. Lightweight knitwear in print and jacquard are key styles, while navy and white and highlights of sapphire, red, geranium and sky blue form the colour palette. — BETTY BARCLAY Animal prints, stripes and florals take centre stage at Betty Barclay, which references all key trend stories, including a vibrant colour scheme of pinks, turquoise and blues, as well as monochrome styles juxtaposed with an accent colour. While dresses are a key staple, trousers are once again in the spotlight with contemporary and directional designs. —
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VIZ-A-VIZ Viz-a-Viz offers soft tailored contemporary coordinates with light layering this season. Key styles include clean-cut, cropped linen jackets, as well as easy to wear trousers and tops. Riviera, Vintage, Lustre and Natural are the main trend stories in the collection. —
CORALS AND PINKS Injecting a colour splash for s/s 14, coral, orange and hot pink are key accents and the perfect vibrant shades for summer. Whether more understated and used as a highlight in an otherwise simple outfit, offset against summer whites, or worked as a head-to-toe look like Rene Lezard and Marc Cain, these shades are versatile, flattering and not to be missed next season. —
A play with materials is a must at Marc Cain this season, with flowing crepes, liquid jerseys and high-tech materials such as neoprene and netting with a 3D look key. The outfits take on a cleaner shape, featuring straight lines but still with a feminine touch. Tokyo is a source of inspiration, and translates into cute kimono jackets and tops. —
B YOUNG B Young has been inspired by a Californian road trip and the early 70s LA rock scene. Knits are important, while many styles have been given a vintage twist through the use of multicoloured, twisted yarns, chunky intarsia and dip dye. Feminine blouses in retro prints are among the highlights. —
Trouville, Boho de Luxe and Tribal Safari are the main trend stories at Fransa. Colours range from marine, white and light greys to corals and pinks, as well as sorbet lime and camel tones. Silhouettes remain on the casual and relaxed side, while fabric mixes and prints are key. —
East Meets West is the central theme at Laurel, and in particular the traditional crafts of Asia. Traditional Japanese kimonos appear as T-shape dresses and dresses with batwing sleeves. Dresses, meanwhile, remain statement pieces with ultra-modern lines featuring as cut-outs, waterfall necklines or deep V-necks. Look out for ornamental details such as stones, chains and hand embroidery. —
Print and colour are the main features at Peruzzi for s/s 14. Sheer fabrics and sharp silhouettes characterise the range, which offers both work pieces and tailoring alongside more relaxed and playful styles. As always, dresses are key, but trouser suits as well as trouser and top combinations are particular standout items this season. —
Rabe combines casual with classic looks and simple with decorative elements. Overall, looks appear minimalist with a focus on soft, relaxed silhouettes. The play of textures, patterns and prints is a central theme of the collection, while colour bursts of orange and coral run throughout the trend stories. Look out for twinsets and skinny trousers, which are among the predicted bestsellers. —
CREENSTONE High-tech fabrics once again make an appearance at outerwear specialist Creenstone, forming the backdrop to feminine shapes and unusual detailing. Among its boldest designs is this season’s transparent mac, which channels geometric shapes and a fashion-forward look. — DORIS STREICH The offering from Doris Streich includes bright and colourful separates that are coordinated to mix and match. Slim silhouettes on bottoms are juxtaposed against more voluminous tops, while dresses are another central product group in the range. Blue, pink, green and monochrome are the key colour stories. — HABELLA A key trend at Habella is inkjet-print jackets, which are combined with plain skirts and trousers. Multi-coloured shirts, meanwhile, are teamed with cropped trousers. Summer dresses for any occasion also feature heavily. The range offers everything from casual daywear to elegant occasion styles. —
S h o w i n g a t JAC K E T R E QU I R E D J U LY 2 0 1 3 PURE LONDON AUGUST 2013 u k i n f o @ j s h o e s . c o m - 0 1 8 5 8 4 6 8 1 2 3 - w w w. j s h o e s . c o m
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MAXIMA Maxima is playing with contrasts for s/s 14, be it in terms of colour clashes, style juxtapositions or simply by combining different prints. The brand takes references from the 50s, 60s and 70s, creating an overall relaxed and casual feel. Key looks include slouchy tops worn with cropped tees, combined with slim-fit floral trousers. —
Collections are positively blooming this season, with florals once again taking centre stage as a key trend for summer. From ditsy petals through big and bold flowers to more abstract versions, there is plenty of variety. New for this season is a focus on bold, bright floral print trousers, with slim-cut pants or peg versions particularly on-trend, having filtered through from the catwalks into the mainstream. —
Quirky and easy to wear separates come from Ana Nonza. The focus is on light and fluid fabrics from Indonesia, including chiffon and crinkle viscose. Silhouettes are loose fitting and voluminous, with styles designed to be coordinated as well as mixed and matched. Dresses are among the highlights, while the colour scheme is based on white and pastels, accentuated by brights and blues. —
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Look out for versatile skirts in plain and ink-jet prints with longer lengths, teamed with smarter jackets or softer pieces for all occasions. The brand offers a complete coordinated range of modern classics and sporty daywear, as well as smart and unstructured suiting. The emphasis is on luxury with functionality. —
There are four fashion themes at Faber this season – Blue Emotion, Red Glamour, Khaki Temptation and Yellow Inspiration. As the names suggest, they are based around key colour schemes, and blended into sophisticated yarns that provide comfort, ease of wear and longevity. Look out for light knits, sporty chic blazers and shirts in plain or with bold prints. —
T STUDIO THERAPY
T Studio Therapy plays simple cottons and viscose against touches of jacquard. Linear and straight tunics form a big part of the collection, while tribal prints, florals and brushed watercolour prints also feature. Colours range from beige and gold to corals and blue. —
Voluminous shapes are juxtaposed with slim silhouettes at Verpass, with the collection taking an overall more minimalist and cleaner direction. Interest and novelty is created through the use of bold prints and unusual colour combinations, with yellow, berry colours and apple, as well as a range of neutrals, dominating the palette. —
There are five themes in Steilmann’s collection this season, featuring everything from “dayglo brights” through monochromes to stripes. Patterned trousers are among the stand-out pieces, while dresses once again are among the key highlights. —
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UN POINT C’EST TOUT A more dressy touch is given to city silhouettes, with glitter and brightness delivered by a play of fabrics and sequins. Tie-dye and ethnic prints can also be found, making for a chic and yet bohemian direction. Look out for collarless jackets, while evening looks are also available. —
Offering a contrast to the bright and bold colour schemes and prints elsewhere, classic white and warm creams and beiges form a neutral alternative. This trend very much depends on a play with textures and fabrics, creating clever interest while remaining within a tonal colour palette. Combine metallic thread styles with plain fabrics, giving every outfit an edgy and yet luxurious feel. —
A neutral colour palette dominates at Passport, with whites, creams and beiges forming the backdrop to relaxed and yet elegant shapes. Silhouettes are fitted overall, but play with a contrast of volumes such as slouchy top and skinny trouser combinations. Metallics add texture and luxury, while understated prints and bright colour boosts in lime and lemon add another dimension. —
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PURE BY LUCIA
An interplay of textures and patterns is evident at Lucia, with metallic gloss effects and structures such as sequins giving a new dimension to classic styles. Sporty femininity is at the core, with knits and jerseys remaining at the forefront of the collection. The look is understated and elegant. —
Latte is placing an increased emphasis on transseasonal styles, which are enhanced by a neutral colour palette of muted metallic, rich creams and soft citruses. Aimed at the “forever 40 woman”, the collection offers a signature vintage twist and is entirely produced in Italy. —
Printed knits with Lurex details and long tunics are among the predicted bestsellers at Monari. Easy to wear tops and T-shirts also form part of the collection, which has a relaxed and stylish attitude. Key colours include melba, desert and indigo, while monochrome is also prevalent. —
YACCO MARICARD Yacco Maricard once again offers a collection that gives a nod to the avant-garde, with unusual details and refined cuts key. A neutral colour palette is key for s/s 14, creating a harmonious and sophisticated look. The brand is also moving away from the one-size system this season with the introduction of conventional sizing, as well as extending its short-order range. —
ALICE & BARNABE The name may be new, but Alice & Barnabe is continuing the successful recipe of its previous All Beautiful branding, paying particular attention to fabrics that are stretchy and soft to the touch, combining style with comfort. There are four trend stories in the collection, with pieces designed to coordinate and mix and match both within the stories as well as with each other. —
GELCO Gelco’s collection is once again playing with colour, however this season in a more restrained way than previously. Each style, be it trousers, dresses, skirts, blazers or blouses, is designed to stand on its own and give room for personal style statements in individual combinations. — JAMES LAKELAND This season James Lakeland has increased its knitwear and casual offer, with quirky tunics and double layered stripy knits in fine gauges key. The dress collection has evolved, too, with the introduction of sleeve polka dot dresses key. Easy to wear cardigans with single buttons and pin tuck folding also feature. — KIRSTEN At Kirsten, look out for collarless, on-trend leather jackets, sporty blazers, classic jackets and summer macs. Lime, turquoise, lilac, pink, black and white as well as an array of colourful prints feature, providing plenty of variety for s/s 14. —
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SANDWICH You will find prints galore in Sandwich’s collection, both digital and screen-printed, featuring spring flowers and ethereal graphics. All prints are balanced against a palette of light greens, teal and pearl grey, while yellow forms a welcome accent. Look out for jackets and dresses, which are key in the collection. —
Adding a bright and vibrant dimension to spring/summer dressing, lemon is stepping into the limelight. Use it in a more classic way as an accent colour across understated outfits, or take the leap and work it head to toe as seen at Luisa Cerano, which is creating a directional, edgy and fashion-forward look. Don’t forget to create interest by teaming plain items with cute prints that stay within the colour palette. —
The strongest trend at Atelier Gardeur is denim, particularly in authentic washes, as well as coloured versions and pale bleached tones. Prints also feature heavily and can be found in the shape of ornamental and floral designs. Silhouettes remain narrow, though cargo pants also make up part of the collection. —
JOULES “Where country meets colour” is the theme at Joules this season, with the brand presenting a cleaner and more streamlined collection, without losing its quirky charm. Colours are bright and bold and include yellows, hot pinks and corals, making the range contemporary and on-trend. Placement prints and florals also feature heavily. —
Prints and vibrant colours are essentials at Uttam, and are the perfect backdrop for a range of feminine and pretty dresses, from vintage-inspired tea dresses through lace versions to summery maxi versions. Accents include yellow, pink and turquoise, while florals dominate. —
Clean lines and minimal patterns characterise the collection at John Smedley this season. Alongside vivid yellow, there are also more muted colour options of neutrals, with accents of red shining through. Knitted dresses are particular highlights, as are shorts, skirts and voluminous jumpers. —
Adini’s latest collection features new developments in textural jersey, and offers surface interest on casual blazers, new legging looks and innovative tunic mixes. Soft drapery denim also forms part of the range, with statement pieces including a denim biker jacket and pretty 30s-inspired tea dresses. —
Predicted bestsellers at Michele are the brand’s figure-boosting Magic jeans, which this season come in a range of juicy pastel shades. Silhouettes are narrow, with 7/8 and ankle lengths a popular variety. Light washes and new colour effects also feature throughout. —
KIRSTEN KROG Predicted bestsellers at Kirsten Krog include soft silk printed dresses with coordinating silk jackets in plains and prints. Lace dresses also feature, alongside printed jersey dresses worn with a lace overtop. Summer brights such as cerise and vibrant blue teamed with cream dominate in terms of colour. — ROBEL Slim-fit jeans, classic trousers and the body shaping jean, Figura, are among the predicted bestsellers at Robel. Power-stretch fabrics with figure-enhancing qualities form the basis for a number of key styles, many of which feature floral, animal and ornamental prints. — TONI Trouser collection Toni offers a wealth of styles this season, with five-pocket drainpipes, close-fitting cigarette pants, narrow chinos and cargo styles key. Trouser lengths also vary, with popular summer styles coming in 7/8 and 3/4 length. The colour scheme is on the calm and understated side, with pastels and neutrals taking centre stage. —
urBAN // strEEt // dENim // liFE
// 11-13 August 2013 + NEC BirmiNghAm // modA-uk.Co.uk/Flip
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ONE DIRECTION CONTEMPORARY AND YOUNG FASHION LABELS REVEAL THE STYLE OF S/S 14 WITH THE UNVEILING OF THEIR LATEST SPRING COLLECTIONS. —
O’NEILL Stylish shirts and cropped tees are at the forefront of O’Neill’s latest offer for women in a new s/s 14 collection entitled Surf Nirvana. Key fabrics include lightweight chiffon, printed cotton voile and sun-bleached denim, crafted into carefully tailored designs for the summer months. —
FORNARINA Fornarina once again focuses on its Perfect Shape denim collection for the new season, expanding the line to include four new fits in super-slim and boyfriend silhouettes. New washes include marble, tie-dye and camouflage effects, while the colour palette across the wider collection spans acid lime overtones, pink, orange and green. —
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G-STAR RAW Dutch denim label G-Star Raw kicks off its 25th anniversary celebrations with the launch of its s/s 14 offer this season. The range features new styles, shapes and washes, including key silhouette the Arc Skinny, as well as looser fit options elsewhere in the collection. —
SILVIAN HEACH Pearl needlework embellishments and baroque-inspired quilted jacquard lend a ladylike feel to the season for Italian womenswear label Silvian Heach. The brand also experiments with an eclectic colour palette spanning the intense hues of Jasper red and indigo blue, interspersed with softer shades of salmon and sand pink. —
MOTEL ROCKS The Jet playsuit in magenta is a core style for Motel Rocks this spring, offering an alternative silhouette for the summer months. The brand, inspired by the vintage styling of thrift stores on the Californian coast, also maintains its offer of crops and denim skirts in line with its signature beach style. —
CROWN LOVE Crown Love unveils a new range of logo and slogan tees for the spring season across a selection of slim-fit and cropped tank silhouettes. The British label, established in East London last year, maintains its commitment to ethical trading through its use of organic cotton. —
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JUST FEMALE Danish womenswear label Just Female adds a sporty vibe to its latest offer through the introduction of transparent mesh inserts, sweat style shapes and decorative bands. Colour blocking in denim is also a key look for the brand, which was established in 2006 in Copenhagen and has since built up a global identity as a contemporary fashion label. —
BENCH Four capsule collections come together for Bench this season as the brand continues its city living journey into s/s 14. Inspired by military pieces, Utility clash focuses on all-over prints, while Casual Humour brings together new styles in loose, relaxed silhouettes. Fem Tex, meanwhile, is all about fashion that functions for contemporary living, while Street focuses on easy-to-wear looks for city life. —
YUMI Staying true to its English heritage roots, British womenswear label Yumi focuses on preppy and traveller-inspired prints splashed over fit and flare prom dresses, cotton-textured blends and dresses in flattering, feminine silhouettes. The s/s 14 offer comprises four key trends – Preppy Pixel, Upcycled Traveller, Quixotic and Midnight Jungle, focusing on primary colours and jersey separates, South-American influences and night-time glamour respectively. —
SUGARHILL BOUTIQUE Bold prints and bright hues are the key focus for Sugarhill Boutique this summer, interspersed with statement features of tropical creatures. The label is inspired by the rich culture of art, architecture and textiles in Bali. —
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GLOVERALL This season sees British brand Gloverall diversify into daywear from its signature outerwear. Nautical and utility themes feature strongly throughout the collection, while the range is designed around a colour palette of yellow, navy, orange and camouflage. The brand also maintains its signature duffle coat for the new season, encompassing festival chic through the most British of styles. —
SELECTED FEMME Slim-fit jeans and oversize shirts are the focus for Selected Femme this season as the brand experiments with shapes designed to flatter. Colourful prints are key, complemented by cool summer neutrals throughout the range. —
TIMEZONE Elegant understatement is the philosophy behind the s/s 14 collection from Timezone as the brand explores new territory with the launch of its high-quality denim styles and reveals a new range of trousers and shorts in relaxed fits. Aiming to dress rather than disguise personality, the brand finds inspiration from all walks of global culture and time zones. —
RUBY ROCKS Striking flocks, exotic prints and deconstructed stripes in not-so-matching suits make for an eye-catching collection from Ruby Rocks this summer as the brand turns to an urban tribe feel as influence for its latest designs. Midi and maxi lengths are both key for skirts and dresses, while cropped tops and blouses offer strong styling for separates. — >>>
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BLUTGESCHWISTER Continuing with its journey to defy the uniformity of mainstream fashion, German label Blutgeschwister experiments with new patterns, colours and stories for the new season with its latest offer for s/s 14. Artful trims embellish the brand’s contemporary silhouettes, each of which features the label’s signature approach to the striking use of colour. —
EUCALYPTUS Delicate, feminine and eccentric are the style signatures of Eucalyptus this season as the brand adds a contemporary twist to its hallmark identity with the introduction of mismatching prints and strong shades of pink, orange, blue and red. The Tina dress in a cool summer shade of mint is a key style for s/s 14. —
MUSTANG Shades of blue across the entire spectrum of Mustang’s s/s 14 echo the brand’s roots as an authentic label through jeans and beyond. Boyfriend, boot-cut and skinny shapes specifically feature in the brand’s denim line, complemented by ethno-style tops with vintage elements in pastel shades through to deep indigo blue. —
2ND DAY Leather tailoring, printed jeans and jersey form the style signatures for 2nd Day this season as the brand diversifies its collection for s/s 14. Launched as the directional little sister to Day Birger et Mikkelsen in 2011, 2nd Day’s identity is rooted in jeans and denim lifestyle and draws upon the influence of cosmopolitan city life. —
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LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW 21-23 July, Radisson Blu Portman Hotel, London W1H. This month sees the London Swimwear Show bring together over 40 of the industry’s key beach and swimwear labels for s/s 14. —
Lingerie and bra specialist Anita arrives at the London Swimwear Show with its three core collections – Anita Care, Anita Comfort and Anita Maternity. Targeting the post-operative, comfort and maternity sectors respectively, each collection has been designed in fresh shades of turquoise, cherry red, pink and emerald across a range of flattering swimsuit, tankini and bikini silhouettes. —
Watercult focuses on bandeau styles this season, revealing a range of retro-inspired butterfly shapes with removable padding, an expanded collection of bottoms in a variety of fits and one-piece costumes in bandeau silhouettes. Key colours for the season include peach-pink, vivid lilac, pastel metallic or hues of iridescent Mother of Pearl. —
Lingadore presents its most diverse selection of beachwear to date for s/s 14, adding a new gel bra bikini, multiway skirt that doubles as a bikini top and a long beach dress in swimwear fabric to its range of returning bestsellers. Lime, fuchsia, purple-blue and coral are the shades of the season for the brand. >>>
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XXXXXXXX — —
KIWI ST TROPEZ Since its inception in 1983, French label Kiwi St Tropez has developed into an international swimwear brand offering co-ordinated beachwear for the entire family. For women specifically this season, the brand introduces its new Brigitte Bardot collection, encompassing traditional glamour through the label’s signature silhouettes. ▼
MIRACLESUIT Miraclesuit flirts with florals, paisleys and shimmering skin tones for the new season with styles designed to flatter and slim the wearer. Established in 2005 with the promise to make each wearer look 10lbs lighter in 10 seconds, the brand attributes its slimming properties to its exclusive Miratex fabric, which flattens the tummy for a streamline finish. —
BANANA MOON Inspired by the styling of southern California vintage beachwear, Banana Moon returns for s/s 14 with a range of tropical florals in dynamic shades of orange, lemon and jade. The brand also celebrates classic femininity with stripes, polka dots and ruffles for a glamorous twist on its signature summer beach identity. —
LISE CHARMEL Encompassing city style through contemporary beachwear, French label Lise Charmel accessorises its s/s 14 collection with refined jewel details and a focus on embellishment. Materials are lighter for s/s 14 with a second-skin effect, designed to resist saltwater and chlorine while offering enhanced fit and comfort. —
BUGATTI This season sees Bugatti introduce ladies’ Panama hats alongside its range of beach and poolside sarongs and scarves. Available in crushable styles for ease of packing, the latest collection of hats are crafted in traditional Panama fabric in shades of pale cream for a fresh, feminine look for summer. —
COUNTDOWN TO SCOOP
Scoop International is taking place on 21-23 July and, for the first time, will be running across two exclusive venues, the Saatchi Gallery on the King’s Road and Phillips Gallery in Howick Place, almost doubling its exhibitor numbers. WWB sums up the latest signings and brands not to miss. — More than 400 brands will be on show at Scoop International this season, comprising some of the best of international designers, exclusive brands, up-and-coming labels and the cream of British design. Among the brands on show this season is Lithuanian designer Ramune Piekautaite, whose signature style is based on combinations of contrasting textures such as wood silk, satin, Tencel, linen, cashmere and wool. Silhouettes are always feminine, while details combine a classic note with modernity. Arche Shoes are designed and made in France to the highest craftsmanship. The brand only uses the finest leathers and develops its own soles while also using an exclusive colour palette along with traditional tanning and manufacturing techniques. Azizi, meanwhile, is the brainchild of Kabul-born and Hamburg-based designer Soraya Azizi, and combines discreet elegance with effortless functionality. An understated chic and clear lines run through the s/s 14 collection, which will make its Scoop debut this season. Lizzie Montgomery is a London label featuring the designer’s exclusive printed and woven fabrics. The s/s 14 line comprises 18 pieces, including dresses, skirts, tops and trousers in the brand’s signature digitally printed fabrics. At
LIZZIE MONTGOMERY... ARCHE SHOES...
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Christophe Sauvat, collections are inspired by the designer’s global travels, coming through in an array of bold prints and juxtaposition of colour and textures, making the collection a vibrant and original proposition. US label Eileen Fisher is returning to the show with a collection built around the principles of function, ease and versatility. Asymmetric design, a harmonious colour scheme and luxurious textures create the understated look the brand is known for. Italian label Rosso 35 was established 40 years ago by Gianni Signorelli and his wife, Maria Laura Dellepiane and, under their guidance, the company grew from an artisan smallholding to an internationally operating brand. Their children, Luca and Paola, have taken over the reins, continuing the family tradition of craftsmanship and style. Candy Baker, meanwhile, is a British luxury hosiery label established by the eponymous designer in 2011. The brand prides itself on its UK-based hand production, with designs influenced by the glamour of the 20s and 30s, but always showing a modern twist. At UK accessories label Rocio you will find handbags that bridge both classic and contemporary design, with evening bags, sophisticated clutches or delicate purses key. The brand was founded in 2006 and has since grown rapidly, now represented in 46 countries. S/s 14 will be the first summer collection for British outerwear label Parka, with the brand having launched last season. This season the brand slightly switches its influences from the streets and blocks of NYC to the boulevards and avenues of Paris, with effortlessly cool classic trenches, macs and mod-esque parkas key. Over at Des Petits Hauts, the collection is once again centred around creative and playful knitwear and tops, which are among the highlights of the collection. Also look out for quirky coats, jackets and dresses in a vibrant colour scheme and full of eye-catching prints and details, which are key.
DES PETITS HAUTS...
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ARTELIER NICOLE MILLER...
Artelier Nicole Miller hails from the US and is the brainchild of designer Nicole Miller, who was trained both in the US and France and inspired by the classic French techniques of haute couture. With a strong celebrity following, the brand is showing its feminine designs at Scoop this season. French label Akhesa, meanwhile, is characterised by vibrant designs that don’t shy away from bold prints or unusual colour and design clashes. A luxurious undertone runs through the collection, with feminine silhouettes key. Over at Italian label Maison Olivia, influences of 50s and 60s retro chic run through the collection. Tailored dresses and coats are key, while the emphasis is on fabrics and unusual detailing, providing a romantic direction. Danish brand 2nd Day is returning to Scoop this season with a bold range of prints and tie-dye effects along with a play on volumes and silhouettes, creating a relaxed and understated feel. Finally, accessories label M Hulot offers bags that have an emphasis on traditional craftsmanship and have been made from leather “that looks like leather”, without being over-treated, as a direct response to the throwaway culture. The look is pure and clean with an “old-school” feel of elegance and simplicity.
SP R I NG 2 0 1 4
Showing at: Who's Next, Paris Hall 7.1, Stand G58/H59 Pure, Olympia London, Stand L101 Moda UK, NEC, Birmingham, Stand I15 SIMM, Madrid, Hall 12, Stand 12E08
Pomodoro Clothing Company Ltd Pomodoro House St Leonard's Road London NW10 6ST Tel: +44 20 8961 4000 Fax: +44 20 8963 1485 Email: email@example.com www.pomodoroclothing.com
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FIRST GLANCE AT MODA WWB takes a sneak peek at next month’s Moda Woman – taking place on 11-13 August at Birmingham’s NEC – and highlights some of the newcomers and key brands to check out. —
Designed and manufactured in Bali, ADC returns to Moda after a successful relaunch last season. Look out for quirky dresses, many in this season’s key trend, dip-dye, as well as coordinating jackets, trousers and leggings. —
Roberto Naldi is returning to Moda with a vibrant collection full of prints and graphics. Silhouettes are flattering and feminine, with dresses among the stand-out pieces, while knitwear, blouses and tops also feature and offer a blend of sophistication and yet understated and relaxed chic. —
New at Moda this season is Belgian brand Marie Mero. The label offers a total-look collection aimed at women who are looking for classic elegance and yet versatile styles that will take them from day to evening. S/s 14 is defined by a vibrant colour scheme and bold prints, with coral a dominating shade. —
Effortless summer looks come from Moda regular Sahara. The brand offers a blend of natural fabrics and a harmonious colour scheme of neutrals and understated monochromes, while silhouettes are loose. —
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Occasionwear brand Carmen Melero is making its Moda debut, offering a range of chic and sophisticated dresses and coordinating bolero jackets made from high-quality fabrics. Influences from the 40s and 50s are evident and see the return of sleeves and interesting collar shapes and necklines. —
Muted metallics and rich creams dominate this season at Italian label Latte, which returns to Moda White. While the main styling is that of understated chic, there is also a vintage twist, adding a quirky and exclusive touch to the collection. Look out for structured jackets and light knits, which are among the highlights. —
Polish label Paola is making its first appearance at Moda, presenting a range of softer eventwear. The label, established in 1989, aims to transcend age demographics, with a focus on dresses and jackets key. The styling is contemporary with a hint of opulence and glamour, with colours for s/s 14 including pinks, creams and lime green. —
Italian brand Elisa Cavaletti is once again returning to Moda with a collection comprising dresses, blouses, knitwear and accessories. The label is known for its unusual detailing and handsewn buttons, and offers modern and adaptable pieces, perfect for layering. —
LILY & ME
Dresses are the speciality of Lily & Me. They come in a variety of textures and silhouettes while sporting the brand’s signature vibrant prints. For s/s 14, look out for a bright colour scheme and plenty of floral and graphic prints. —
Evening and occasionwear brand Linea Raffaelli is returning to Moda after an absence last season, offering another sophisticated range of elegant styles. A more understated look is evident in this season’s range, with chic shift dresses sitting alongside occasionwear dresses and coordinating jackets. —
Exclusive prints are the signature of Moda newcomer Braintree, found across key styles such as bamboo jersey dresses, tunics and tees. For s/s 14, the brand has adopted a relaxed and casual attitude with elements of luxe boho and laid-back weekendwear. —
Greek brand Sarah Lawrence is launching to the UK at Moda. The range is pitched at the mid market and offers relaxed dressing either for leisure or work. The collection comprises a full selection of separates, including dresses, tops, trousers, jackets, coats and skirts, as well as a denim line. —
84 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2013
RETAIL DIARY Celebrating the sixth anniversary of my business went flat in May when I ended up without any premises for more than two weeks. What should have been a simple relocation to a larger shop barely 150 yards away went horribly wrong. I had to give up my original store while still wrestling over the lease on the new one. — It’s now resolved, and I am happy in my new shop, which is on Hospital Street, one of Nantwich’s main shopping roads. I had been round the corner in Cocoa Yard, a small pedestrianised area, but I needed more space as lingerie and swimwear requires a lot of stock. When the unit in Hospital Street became available, I knew it was ideal. By coincidence, my original landlord was acting as managing agent for my new landlord. I thought we had agreed a deal in February and was set to leave the old shop just before the first May Bank Holiday, which was my sixth anniversary of opening. The idea was to open in my new place less than a week later. The sticking point proved the lease. The landlord sent me one that was 65 pages long. It was unnecessarily restrictive, I thought, and so did my solicitors. The to-ing and fro-ing went on and on. The landlord refused to meet me personally, so it was down to the lawyers. I stayed in the old shop until 12 May thanks to the generosity of the incoming tenant but, eventually, I had to leave with nowhere to go. Thankfully, my old landlord himself intervened with his client, my new landlord, and the log jam was freed with us each giving way. I finally opened my new shop on 28 May. It was a terrible time. My clients were emailing and texting me trying to locate me. May is a good month for swimwear, and I reckon the disaster has cost me between £4,000 and £5,000 in sales, which I’m not going to recoup. I can’t see what I would have done differently, though, apart from pushing harder and earlier for a face-to-face meeting to sort things out. I’d advise anyone to allow more time than they think they’ll need to sort out a lease. I have no plans to move again. On the plus side, I am seeing more customers, including a few who never noticed me around the corner in the six years I was there. Amanda Callus owns Eden Lingerie in Nantwich, Cheshire. She is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk.
The latest news from the industry —
CELEB STYLE ONLINE
TED BAKER BLOOMS AT SELFRIDGES Last month saw British label Ted Baker open a new destination pop up in Selfridges, showcasing its s/s 13 range of accessories. Designed around a seasonal floral theme, Ted’s Pick of the Bunch displays the brand’s shoppers, totes, clutch bags, purses, iPad cases and Wellingtons in three key prints from both its current s/s 13 and trans-seasonal a/w 13 collections. The pop-up shop will be open in the Oxford Street store for three months, and features themed point-of-sale material including vintage mahogany carts and wild flower displays. —
Spottedonceleb.com is the latest online fashion store to hit the world wide web. The shop, founded by fashionista Flavia Stuttgen, specialises in hard-to-get LA brands that have been spotted on celebrities such as Jessica Alba, Nicole Richie, and the Kardashians. The site was conceived after Stuttgen failed to buy the brands she saw and liked on stylish celebrities, and hunted down the labels until she found the identical garments. The store stocks LA brands such as For Love and Lemons, TBaas, LNA, Lauren Moshi, Winter Kate and Torn by Ronny Kobo. —
85 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2013
WHAT’S ON YOUR WISHLIST FOR NEXT SEASON?
MILLARS WINS WINDOW CONTEST Footwear indie Millars in Lurgan, County Armagh, was recently voted the winner of a window dressing competition hosted by US label Rocket Dog. The brand searched for the best dressed and Rocket Dog branded store, and Millars came out on top, winning a digital camera, Rocket Dog shoes for each member of staff and £1,500 to spend on a staff event. “The response from our independent customers has been fantastic, and the creativity of their teams of staff are a credit to the retail industry in these tough economic times. We wanted to support indie retailers as best we can by providing assets to present our brand and our products to customers,” says Derek Brown, Rocket Dog’s European MD. —
We ask four retailers this month’s hot question.
INDIE GOES ONLINE ONLY Independent womenswear retailer Pixie Pop & Posh will close its bricks-and-mortar store this month in favour of an online-only business model. The store, in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, retails apparel and accessories labels including Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Maison Scotch, One Teaspoon and Vero Moda. Established seven years ago, the retailer will now focus on its online operation while also hosting several pop-up events this season and beyond. “Unfortunately the economics of running a high-street boutique don’t make sense any more,” says owner Selina Bashire. “We look forward to continuing with our online business and future events.” —
MY FAVOURITE SHOP... JULES B by Fraser Hamilton, Superga brand manager for UK & Ireland
JEN GARRITY Owner, Coco Marie, Amersham
“Better weather. Failing that, I would say better marketing support by our suppliers, as being the featured stockist in a national magazine would make a huge difference to our online sales.” —
MELISSA WHEELER Co-owner, Ambience of Colchester
“A more old-school approach to supplier-retailer relationships exhibited by the suppliers. The tough economic times have highlighted to us the importance of working with a loyal and flexible supplier.” —
PIPPA SANDISON Owner, Boudoir Femme, Cambridge
“No minimum orders imposed, giving more flexibility and choice when buying. Also, we are buying a lot more in-season, so we would love to see more of the premium brands selling on this basis so we can be more agile with the weather and economic situation.” —
PAMELA SHIFFER Owner, Pamela Shiffer
“Back-up stock in winning styles and generally fresh stock from brands on a regular basis would be nice. And good marketing material that truly reflects a brand ethos would also be high on my wishlist.” —
JULES B Opened: October, 1985 Address: 91-93 Osbourne Road, Jesmond, Newcastle upon Tyne NE2 2AN Key brands: MSGM, Ash, Helmut Lang, Alexander Wang, M Missoni, Marc by Marc Jacobs, McQ, Creenstone “Since Jules B opened, it has continued to punch above its weight by offering great brands. Jules B Jesmond has helped define the style of the North East and I would go as far as to say it embodies all that is good about retail and style north of London. The store has a fantastic mix of quality brands, which have been nurtured and developed by educating the consumers through exceptional customer service and marketing, resulting in great brand loyalty. The store has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, great displays and staff who are knowledgable and enthusiastic.” —
86 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2013
ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions —
WHAT IMPACT WILL NEW EMPLOYMENT TRIBUNAL CHANGES HAVE?
WHY IS SEO SO IMPORTANT FOR MY ONLINE BUSINESS?
It’s the nightmare situation that no business wants to face, and it just got worse. Employment tribunal fees are going up this summer, and the government has done an awful job of letting business owners know about it. These new fees and rules come into force this summer and are aimed at simplifying and streamlining the tribunal system, but could end up costing your businesses dearly.
For fashion retailers, the ability to reach online audiences – whether it’s consumers, buyers or suppliers – is ever evolving as more and more people look to the internet to do their research. It’s forecast that the online retail market will continue to grow steadily throughout 2013. This, coupled with the fact that sales through mobile devices (smartphones and tablets) have also seen continued growth – making up 12 per cent of e-retail sales in 2012, 150 per cent increase on 2011 figures – means that now more than ever online is big business.
Our research shows that two-thirds of companies and business owners are unaware of the reforms, while a similar proportion of small businesses have no protection against the financial implications of the new employment tribunals. To put it bluntly, this is a huge change that company directors need to know about. These changes leave the door wide open to multiple claims that could cost your business dearly unless you put some protection in place. The changes that are due to come into force this summer include: • A new simplified way for employees to register claims, making it an easy option • “Strike out” powers to end weak cases at the earliest possible opportunity • Tribunals held to consistent rules so all parties know what to expect • Cutting the amount of paperwork, making it easier to withdraw and dismiss claims • New procedures for preliminary hearings to reduce the overall number of hearings While the changes have been made with the good intention of making it easier to strike out frivolous and weak claims, the ease with which claims can now be filed means that companies will have to spend thousands to fight their corner. A disgruntled former employee will be able to issue a claim for as little as £160, while an unfair dismissal claim comes with a £250 filing fee, with a hearing fee of £950. The fees will be payable by you should the case be justified, your legal costs will also be payable by you either way. And, in the current financial climate, that’s the last thing any company director wants. The best way to deter future employment tribunal claims after the new regulations come into force is to ensure your company has a strong HR policy. Making sure that employees know their contracts and obligations is the only real way to avoid legal problems and expense further down the line. Having a robust system in place from the offset will ensure smooth sailing for both you and your staff. —
Chris Hall is managing director at LightHouseRiskServices.com.
With an increasing number of retailers moving into overseas markets in order to expand their reach beyond domestic boundaries, and all competing to gain traction in an ever-expanding sector, the importance of SEO in developing and sustaining an effective international shop window (website) cannot be underestimated. It’s vital in achieving success, but the transition is not void of pitfalls. Done well it can create a springboard for brands – done badly, it can blight credibility. Today, SEO is no longer just about increasing search traffic to a website, it’s about driving key, targeted audiences to a site through a range of media and using an array of combined specialisms. Therefore, it’s essential that retailers maximise methodologies to their full potential now in order to stay ahead. Attracting new customers is key for an online business, but it’s important to use the right platforms and language to engage. Leading international SEO practices demand that companies not only need to think global but they need to act local. So avoid getting lost in translation. Simply making content accessible through strategically placed key words or phrases is not enough; a website needs human translation – creative content written by native speakers. This way, not only will the idioms and wordplay of a language be conveyed, but there will be an implicit understanding of that culture and factors that affect your consumers’ buying decisions. Using online PR methods is also an intrinsic part of modern-day SEO. Increasingly, people tend to search by brand + the search item, therefore it’s important companies make use of viral content to make sure they share data or stories that drive searches on their brand name. Knowing this type of information is essential in reaching target demographics. It will also help to build localised content and links with other websites and social media platforms, which in turn will drive natural search and enhance prominence and accessibility. —
Andreas Voniatis is the founder and managing director of Alchemy Viral, a specialist in international search optimisation. www.alchemyviral.com.
88 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2013
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89 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2013
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90 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — JULY 2013
UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —
ILSE JACOBSEN The founder and designer of the eponymous label shares her inspirations and the recipe for success of the ever-evolving brand. —
Your label is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year – did you envisage such success when you set out in 1993? I started out designing 10 pairs of sandals in my first store, which was only 31 sq m. We now have 10 concept stores in Denmark, seven in Norway, one in Iceland, one in Sweden with another about to open, and negotiations about the first concept store in the UK are under way. I never dreamt about this kind of success, but I am, of course, very happy about it. What have been the key milestones in your brand’s history? One milestone was developing the iconic handmade rain boots with lace-up front. The process of creating this style took two years as they are complex to manufacture. It was with the rain boots that my international success started. Since then, our brand history has been full of milestones. Your label is intrinsically linked to Hornbaek, the little maritime town where it was founded. How has the location inspired your brand? I live in Hornbæk, famous for the relaxing atmosphere around its small harbour, wide sandy beaches and dunes. It is the backdrop for my life and creativity. I get inspired by the natural and raw beauty of my surroundings. How will you celebrate the 20th anniversary of your company? We will celebrate with a huge event on the beautiful white sand of Hornbæk beach, where we will be hosting our 20th anniversary show and a seated VIP dinner for over 250 people from all over the world. I am looking forward to sharing this day with all the wonderful people who, over the years, have inspired and supported me and enriched my life. What are your plans for the label going forward? In the fall we will be opening my spa, Kurbadet by Ilse Jacobsen, in Hornbæk, where it will be possible to enjoy relaxing massage therapy, physiotherapy, beautifying facial treatments, a heated outdoor therapy pool and much more. At the same time, we will be launching a new line of beauty products. Other than that, we are focusing on our current markets to ensure growth.
INSIDER: Who is your style icon and why? I admire HRH Crown Princess Mary of Denmark. She is elegant and stylish and a committed and admirable person. I would love to design something for her. — Which fashion business do you admire and why? Ralph Lauren – his ability to stay true to his brand and sense of style is outstanding. — What’s the best piece of industry advice you’ve ever been given? That nothing is impossible. I always say, “If you can fly to the moon and back, everything is possible.” — What’s the one fashion item you can’t live without? My rubber boots for when I am walking my dog, and my sandals with beautiful stones when dressing up.
Crea Concept UK Ltd 34/35 Eastcastle Street 1st Floor London W1W 8DW Tel: 020 7 436 0631 Email: Paulette@creaconcept.co.uk