ISSUE 224 | AUGUST 2015 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
AUGUST 2015 | CONTENTS | 07
F E A T U R E S 14
Online Insider Advice, news and issues online
Retail Insider The latest in-store news
Back to business Advice and answers on issues affecting retail
Product News Rounding up the key stories this month
In-season stock Simple shades
In-season stock Get knitted
Richard James Mayfair steps it up The next step for the British brand
Tops and tales Celebrating 75 years with Double Two
Moda Gent: The people The faces behind the UK’s largest fashion fair
Moda Gent: The brands Profiling some of the key labels to catch this season
Moda Footwear: The brands Footwear highlights for s/s 16
Moda What’s On A comprehensive run-down of seminars, catwalks and other show features
Wheel of fortune MWB discovers the path to success for Jersey retailer Roulette Clothing
Tailor made Essential picks from tailoring and mainstream menswear
New dawn for New Era Tom Bottomley takes a look at the new step for the iconic brand
Back to Berlin New labels discovered at Seek and Premium
Destination menswear Six menswear blogs to bookmark
Peter Millar sets sights on the UK What’s next for the American label
R E G U L A R S 9 10 20
Comment News Interview François Lepeltier
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Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With… Stefan Maurel
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July’s emergency Budget, which included changes to Sunday working hours and the rise of the National Living Wage, is set to directly affect retailers more than any Budget has in the last couple of years. — According to a report by the British Independent Retailers’ Association, the increase in the National Living Wage will see small shops having to cut jobs, hours, or both. The National Minimum Wage will increase to £7.20 per hour in 2016, rising to £9 in 2020, with 63 per cent of Bira members polled agreeing that the increase could certainly lead to fewer jobs and hours. To a sector struggling to cope with additional pension costs and the ever-increasing business rates, this comes as an unexpected blow. According to Bira, this provides confirmation of the Chancellor’s announcement that 60,000 jobs would be lost as a direct result of the new rate. At a time when unemployment is still a huge issue looming over the country, the fact that even more jobs could be lost is worrying to say the least. A more positive outcome of the Budget, however, was the relaxation of dated Sunday trading regulations. Relaxed Sunday trading laws were introduced successfully during the London Olympics in 2012 and, in a digital economy that operates 24/7, extending Sunday opening hours will allow bricks-and-mortar stores to compete better with online retailers. Ultimately, reforming Sunday trading will empower retailers to keep up with customers and create strategies that cater to changing expectations. But the question I find myself asking is, will any of this be relevant in 2020, when retailers can’t afford to pay their staff to work Sundays? On a different note, if you’re heading to the UK’s largest fashion fair, Moda, this month, turn to p40 for our comprehensive run-down of the brands to catch, faces to see and product to discover. Our seasonal shoot, meanwhile, highlights the best of mainstream and formal menswear, while style inspiration can be found in our feature, Destination Menswear, which brings together six of the best blogs to bookmark now. And while MWB will return in September, remember you can get weekly news, features and interviews by signing up to our newsletter on www.mwb-online.co.uk. Have a great month and email me or tweet the team @mwbmagazine with any comments you have. Victoria Jackson Editor
A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.
AUGUST 2015 | NEWS | 10
N E W S
NEW DATES FOR MAROC IN MODE AND MAROC SOURCING
CONTROVERSY OVER NEW NATIONAL LIVING WAGE Small shops will have to cut jobs or hours, or both, as a result of the new National Living Wage announced in the latest Budget, a new report by the British Independent Retailer Association (Bira) warns. The industry body conducted a survey among its members, following last month’s Conservative Budget and the planned introduction of a new rate of the National Minimum Wage, called the Living Wage, initially to £7.20 per hour, rising to £9 in 2020. Sixty three per cent stated it would lead to fewer jobs and hours, 31 per cent said it would make no difference, and three per cent estimated it would create more jobs, with a further three per cent stating they didn’t know. According to Bira, this provides confirmation of the Chancellor’s announcement that 60,000 jobs would be lost as a direct result of the new rate. Bira further concludes that more than a third of its members have reported reducing employee numbers and hours because of increases in the national minimum wage. Most notably, 90 per cent of businesses with a turnover between one and three million have done this, according to responses to a recent Bira wages survey. The Association calculates that the concession of £1,000 on National Insurance would compensate for less than a year’s worth of the increase in the rate for one full time employee and calls it “a largely empty gesture”. Small retailers, even those forecasting no immediate effect, expressed greater concern about the clearly mapped future for the rate. To rise from £7.20 in 2016 to £9 in 2010 will require four sequential annual hikes of six per cent. What this means for the political independence of the Low Pay Commission is of concern to the Association. CEO Alan Hawkins says, “This will be a body blow to small shops if the government simply imposes this huge jump in cost on a sector already struggling to cope with falling prices, additional pension costs and ever increasing and punitive business rates. It emphasises the need for the Treasury to push ahead quickly with its promises to review and reform this damaging tax if small shops are to have a hope of coping with this unexpected new burden.” —
A new venue and exhibition dates have been announced for Moroccan textile and apparel shows Maroc in Mode and Maroc Sourcing. The 13th edition of Maroc in Mode and 12th edition of Maroc Sourcing will now take place on 4-6 November. The dates have changed from the end of October to prevent clashing with other events. Both shows will run side-by-side in Marrakesh – not Casablanca, as was originally planned – and will take place at the World Touring Car Championship WTCC, the Paddock du Circuit International Moulay Hassan. The fairs are organised by Moroccan textile and clothing association AMITH in collaboration with Maroc Export, the national agency for export promotion. —
JACOBSON GROUP SECURES FUNDING Branded footwear supplier Jacobson Group has secured funding from Shawbrook Business Credit to the total of £14m, which will allow it to continue its international growth strategy. Coinciding with the funding, Jacobson Group has restructured its business by slimming down its non-branded division, putting greater focus on brands and allowing it to open up to new markets and invest further in existing territories. Last year Jacobson Group resumed control of the US distribution for its Gola Classics brand with the setup of a US subsidiary. Following this, the group has also launched its Frank Wright and Lotus brands in this territory, with 2015 seeing the move to a new, larger office complex to help facilitate the growth. With a history spanning over 80 years in footwear, Jacobson Group owns a portfolio of brands, including Gola, Frank Wright, Ravel, Lotus and Dolcis. —
AUGUST 2015 | NEWS | 11
MINSTERS CALL FOR FREE PARKING
PREMIUM GROUP TO ACQUIRE BRIGHT
High streets minister Marcus Jones has called for town centres to become parking meter free zones in a bid to boost local trade and stimulate the economy. The motion comes after traders in the Welsh town of Cardigan reported a 50 per cent increase in sales last week, during a period when no parking meters were useable within the town centre. Shoppers took advantage of the anomaly – which came about following the vandalism of the town’s four meters – parking for free, and shopping locally as a consequence. “You can look at examples around the country where that situation is currently in place and they seem to be doing better, and I think it’s really important that councils understand that and develop their policies to make sure that they are attracting people to come and shop and frequent the high street,” says Jones in reference to the correlation between “free” parking and increased footfall into town centres. —
The Premium Group, organiser of Berlin trade shows Premium and Seek, as well as Premium Order in Munich, is acquiring street and sportswear exhibition Bright. As part of the deal, Premium will also take over the shares of Bright founders Marco Aslim and Thomas Martini, though they will both continue in their positions as managing directors with creative influence over the trade show’s future. Along with Seek, the platform for contemporary menswear, the two events are to create a hub for progressive menswear in Berlin, with the shows having exhibited alongside each other for the first time this season. The shows will continue to run at the same time in the same location and will be expanded in the future, with both concepts remaining independent and keeping their individual focus. —
ADMIRAL RETURNS STRONGER THAN EVER
ASOS.COM VISITORS SOAR
Established in 1914, Admiral – renowned for its performance and lifestyle apparel – returns for a/w 15 with a brand new focus on both heritage menswear and premium sportswear. After taking a break in manufacturing, in 2011 Admiral Sportswear Ltd was established and, over the past four years, the brand has honed its craft with one of its strongest collections to date for the new season, featuring two sub lines – Retro and Gold. The Retro collection looks at the rich back catalogue of the Admiral archive, focusing on the brand’s hero football kits for inspiration. The Gold range, meanwhile, is a modern take on British heritage menswear. The line adds a more premium element to sportswear, featuring the tipped polo in a variation of colours, and offers a selection of trousers, from contemporary cuffed joggers to the classic chino and the deep indigo jean. —
June website figures to the global fashion destination Asos saw a significant increase in comparison to June last year. Asos attracted 98 million visits during June 2015, compared to 71 million during June 2014. On 30 June 2015, the website had 9.7 million active customers, which is one million higher than 30 June 2014. The increase in visitor figures reflects an overall strong sales period for the online retailer. Retail sales for the four months leading to 30 June 2015 grew by 20 per cent, while UK growth remained strong at 27 per cent. Nick Robertson, CEO of Asos, says, “After accounting for our price investments during the period, the full year gross margin is nonetheless expected to remain in line with last year, assisted by tighter inventory control and strong full-price sales.” —
THE IDLE MAN SECURES FUNDING AFTER FAILED DRAGONS’ DEN ATTEMPT Online menswear e-tailer The Idle Man has received a £1.25m investment, following its attempt to attract a cash injection on Dragons’ Den. Founded by former Asos menswear buyer Oliver Tezcan, the website was seeking £200,000 investment for 5.5 per cent of the business. Questions were raised, however, about its £25m valuation and its loss of £910,000 last year on sales of £300,000. Despite this, Tezcan has managed to secure £510,000 from previous investor Foresight Nottingham and angel investors met through family contacts, £258,000 through crowdfunding site Crowdcube and £500,000 from new investor the Nottinghamshire Pension Fund in a second round of funding completed this week. FASHION SVP RETURNS TO LONDON’S OLYMPIA Fashion SVP, the UK’s leading event for fashion sourcing, is returning this September, showcasing over 150 garment and fabric producers from across Europe and the Mediterranean, many of which are manufacturing for brands such as Asos, Inditex, Otto Group, Ted Baker, Karen Millen, Coast, French Connection and Massimo Dutti. The event’s fifth edition takes place on 29-30 September at London’s Olympia, and is aimed at fashion production chain professionals from brands and retailers from the UK, Scandinavia, Germany, Benelux, Spain and France. A strong Turkish presence has been confirmed by leading Turkish association Aegean Exporters Association (EIB), with over 25 Turkish garment manufacturers participating, specialising in a vast range of product categories such as casual, formal, sports and eveningwear. ASBCI LAUNCHES DEFINITIVE GUIDE ON APPAREL SIZE AND FIT The Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI) has launched a new technical handbook entitled Apparel Size and Fit – A Definitive Guide, which is a collaboration of international industry experts. Apparel size and fit has long been a major source of frustration for manufacturers and customers, resulting in wasted time and money for all concerned. This latest handbook produced by the ASBCI is designed to provide a “bible” for all involved in apparel design, product development, retail, quality, sourcing, merchandising and marketing. Covering key technical topics relating to the fashion industry, each handbook serves as an essential introduction and guide to best practice. Subject matter covered includes, “What does size mean to the customer?” “Anthropometrics and size surveys”, “Size systems and labels”, “Pattern design and grading”, “Fitting and quality control” and “Made to measure and mass customisation”. FLYING HORSE INDIGO GOODS ANNOUNCES NEW BRAND AMBASSADOR Flying Horse Indigo Goods has revealed music promoter and agent John Giddings as the latest addition to its roster of brand ambassadors. Giddings is a world-renowned music promoter and agent with decades of legendary achievements under his belt. Inspired by his teenage experiences of the Isle of Wight Festival, he personally resurrected the event and has since restored it to its former glory as one of the most iconic live music events in the world. This year the brand was in attendance at the festival providing clothes to VIP music acts.
AUGUST 2015 | NEWS | 12
FEEFO WELCOMES NEW REPORT FINDINGS
BOXPARK CROYDON LAUNCHES FOR 2016
Feefo – the UK’s first closed review platform – has welcomed findings from a new report ran by the Competition & Markets Authority (CMA). Findings from the CMA’s investigation into the UK reviews and ratings market have found that Feefo meets all the recommendations set by the report, which called for review platforms to be more reliable and responsible. Currently, Feefo is working with over 2,000 merchants including retail merchants The White Company, Moss Bros, Notonthehighstreet.com and The Wool Company. The site is proving invaluable to retailers, as the growth in internet trading sees an increase in competition. Feefo ensures reliable reviews by only inviting customer feedback following the actual purchase of a product or service from the merchant’s site. —
A second Boxpark pop-up mall will open in Croydon for summer 2016, following the success of the world’s first pop-up mall Boxpark in London’s Shoreditch. Situated at Ruskin Square, next to East Croydon Station, Boxpark Croydon will embrace the original ethos but will be bigger – offering 80 shopping containers – and more radical. Playing host to handpicked indie labels and fresh-thinking businesses, Boxpark Croydon has a strict “no high street fascia” rule. The new Boxpark space, which will open seven days a week, offers two rows of Box Shops and a high transparent roof covering an atrium. Elements such as a pop-up cinema, mini music festivals, art installations, theatrical productions and more will be incorporated via a 20,000 sq ft central space with capacity for audiences of 2,000 plus, equipped giant LED screens interacting with visitors in real time. —
WEST END & KNIGHTSBRIDGE RETAILERS PLEDGE 2,000 JOBS
BEN SHERMAN SOLD TO MARQUEE BRANDS
Central London is set to benefit from 2,000 new jobs as a result of proposals to extend Sunday trading hours. The commitment, which will see Londoners employed throughout the West End and Knightsbridge, is supported by London Mayor Boris Johnson MP and some of the UK’s biggest retail players. The pledge from West End and Knightsbridge businesses comes after the Treasury revealed that it is to consider giving local areas the power to extend trading hours for retailers. Chancellor George Osborne cited New West End Company research in the announcement, confirming that an extra two hours of trading on Sunday would boost Central London businesses by £260m each year and provide over 2,000 additional full time retail jobs. —
British label Ben Sherman has been bought by Marquee Brands, an American firm controlled by investment ground Neuberger Berman. Bought for £41m from its current owner, Oxford Industries, Michael DeVirgilio, president of Marquee, said he plans to overhaul the brand’s products and sell them into Japan, South Korea and South America. “Part of what drew us to the brand was its history and association with different culture movements over the years,” says DeVirgilio. “These are incredible points of history in the music scene in the UK. We can revive that energy by reviving the relationship between the brand and the movements of today.” Oxford Industries bought Ben Sherman in 2004 for £80m from the private equity firm 3i but, after relying heavily on discounted sales online and through discount outlets, it put the business up for sale after it lost $10.8m (£7m) last year. —
JONATHAN SAUNDERS APPOINTS NEW CEO British luxury brand Jonathan Saunders has appointed Rupert Maunsell as CEO. Most recently operations director at Mary, Maunsell has held senior management and operational positions at brands including Avenue 32 and Temperley London. In his role as the first CEO of Jonathan Saunders, Maunsell will be leading a series of key hires across the business in order to execute the strategic growth of the brand following private investment earlier this year. The Jonathan Saunders studio also relocates this month to new premises in Clerkenwell to support the expansion. CRAGHOPPERS AND ORDNANCE SURVEY TEAM UP TO PRODUCE THE “OS COLLECTION” Ordnance Survey – Britain’s mapping agency - and clothing label Craghoppers have announced a new partnership to release a range of outdoor clothing. As leading brands in their respective fields, Craghoppers and Ordnance Survey will work together to offer customers a range of clothing that reflects OS’s values while combining Craghoppers’ leading technologies and design delivering an active, fast and lightweight collection. The ‘OS Collection’ is designed to appeal to a broad base of outdoor customers who want to ‘get outside’ and require protection, security and peace of mind together with flexibility for multi activity use. The range is ideal for all kinds of activities that might require OS mapping whether walking, running or cycling. Products in the collection will reflect the OS logo in a subtle way via zip pulls and labelling. The men’s and women’s ranges feature technical jackets, soft shell trousers, jackets and fleeces to help consumers explore all the corners of Great Britain and get more from their outdoor adventure. The new OS capsule collection will be available for consumers from spring 2016. ONLINE FUNDING PLATFORM FUNDBIRD LAUNCHES Fundbird, an online platform that matches SME’s with the right funding, launched last month in the UK. The service is designed to help small businesses navigate the ever-expanding range of non-bank funding options to find the best match for their individual requirements. Fundbird’s application form guides SMEs to understand the type of finance they require ensure they are talking to the right lender. It provides immediate, personalised results for free, to make a potentially frustrating, time-consuming and costly experience, simple and quick. The platform covers multiple financial solutions, including secured loans, unsecured loans, asset based finance, invoice finance, peer-to-peer lending and start-up loans. Fundbird offers funding solutions from top alternative lenders including Crowdcube, Funding Circle and MarketInvoice, and plans to add several more by the end of the year – all of which are well established and have been carefully selected by Fundbird based on criteria including competitive interest rates, flexible payment terms, and customer support. Since the soft launch earlier this year, Fundbird has already helped over 1,000 UK SMEs to find the right alternative finance solution for their needs. These customers span a range of industries, including hospitality, retail, travel and the hair and beauty sector.
Heart of Fashion
Woman Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories Footwear Gent
9-11 August 2015 Moda, NEC Birmingham Register for tickets at moda-uk.co.uk
AUGUST 2015 | ADVICE | 14
ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.
ADVICE: SIZING UP: HOW RETAILERS CAN BETTER EMBRACE THE MULTICHANNEL MOVEMENT
RICHARD KOLODYNSKI is senior vice president at iVend Retail and can be contacted via fieldworksmarketing.co.uk
Today’s hyper-connected shopper is increasingly blending their online and offline experiences using connected devices – and it’s changing the game for the fashion retailers. The multichannel movement has created new challenges and opportunities for brands wanting to capture customer value at every touch point, particularly online. The enormous increase in mobile retail has underpinned ecommerce’s importance, with a recent report predicting that 20 per cent of total growth in established markets will come from online shopping in the next five years*. However, it’s important to remember that online shopping is only half the story. Few consumers shop exclusively through the internet. Whether the final sale is attributed to ecommerce or the store, it is likely that the buyer has interacted with the fashion retailer and brand across both channels, using multiple devices, on their journey to purchase. The rise of multichannel has created a compulsion to offer consumers a seamless journey, however they shop. Desktop, mobile and store shopping can no longer be treated as separate entities; they are part of the same customer journey, and therefore a common brand identity and product availability must exist throughout. For fashion retailers’ ecommerce platforms in particular, this means optimising websites for use on all devices. The importance of responsive content will increase further with Google’s new algorithm, which prioritises mobile-optimised websites – highlighting that consumers must be able to find and view content easily, and purchase quickly, even on small screen. It also means that the digital journey must be firmly integrated with offline activities. One of the greatest challenges for today’s retailers is integrating bricks and mortar into the multichannel experience. Most shoppers enter a store with some level of knowledge from online research. This last point in the journey involves seeing, touching and trying on the item, and asking final, detailed questions that perhaps can’t be addressed online. Equipping customer service personnel with mobile Point of Sale technology linked to back-end systems provides access to this depth of knowledge. It also enables store associates to pull up recent orders or abandoned purchases, to continue shoppers’ online journeys in the store. There’s no doubting that multichannel shopping is a complicated world, with many technology solutions available to address these complexities. The key for fashion brands and retailers is to implement systems that enable them to flexibly serve and customise experiences for shoppers in all channels. * Dunnhumby, 2015
WWW.ACUTABOVETHERETSY.COM When faced with a website as vast as Etsy, even knowing where to start is a task in itself – and that’s where A Cut Above the Retsy comes in. If you’re looking for the perfect art work to frame for your shop wall, this website brings together a carefully curated selection of the best of what Etsy has to offer. Fashion, homeware and jewellery are featured, as well as prints and posters, which include art-déco inspired film designs and cartoon-style illustrations. —
STRONG GROWTH AT SECRETSALES Online sales site Secretsales.com has posted strong financial results, with a revenue increase of 39 per cent to £25.2m. The company has also had a strong start to the year, with growth of 37 per cent in the first four months. The company has secured an additional £3m of funding to accelerate growth, which will facilitate a further investment in technology and plans to double the size of the team in 2015. Operating losses were reduced by 40 per cent – £1.5m – despite a year of significant investment, with the company having continued to build long term relationships with luxury brands. Furthermore, Secretsales extended its product categories, which now include accessories, footwear, apparel, childrenwear, lingerie, beauty and homeware and lifestyle. Secretsales signed 124 new brands in the first quarter of 2015, with an increase of registered members by 22 per cent to 3.7m. 3,196 sales events took place in 2014, up 37 per cent on the previous year. The technology platform was also greatly improved, with an enhanced CRM system to provide infrastructure for sophisticated behaviour and preferenceled customer communication with over 70,000 personalised iterations of the daily email. The company’s Mobile First strategy is on track, with 60 per cent of revenue generated via mobile devices, up from 50 per cent in 2013. “Last year was the year Secretsales became an established and important player in the minds of consumers and major brand partners,” says Nish Kukadia, CEO. “Our focus on cutting edge, proprietary technology has driven this change through the greater ability to understand the needs and wants of each member, facilitating improved targeting and personalisation, resulting in an increase in both consumer actives and average spend per head. In turn, with nearly four million members, we have seen a major step up in the number and quality of our leading brand partners.”
MIDLANDS, SOUTH AND CHANNEL ISLANDS Simon Beard Phone: 079 32 172944 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org WALES, NORTH, CHESHIRE, SCOTLAND Rob Davies Phone: 077 87 79 38 63 Email: email@example.com
MODA MENSWEAR, BIRMINGHAM 09.08. 11.08.2015 HALL 20, STAND MD40
AUGUST 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 16
RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —
VIEWPOINT NICHOLAS BROWN, Managing director of Browns York and a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).
THE HIP STORE EXPANDS INTO NEW PREMISES The Hip Store, one of the UK’s best-known independents, has relocated to expand its offering of men’s clothing, accessories and lifestyle products. Previously located in Leeds’ Trinity Shopping Centre, the new store has moved to Vicar Lane, housed on the ground floor of an old Victorian building previously occupied by kitchenwear specialist Peter Maturi. Having been open since June, the shop finds itself within close proximity of the city’s premium shopping destination, Victoria Quarter, and the soon-to-open Victoria Gate. The store features original brick walling, colour pops of blue highlighted with copper fittings, a dedicated shoe wall and an exclusive denim area, as well as a coffee bar. “We’re excited about the new space because it allows us to do things we’ve always wanted to, such as profile local artists, introduce great publications and present our special projects and exclusives in really interesting ways,” says owner Everton Campbell. “We think it’s a really exciting time for menswear and we want to share that with our customers – both online and in-store. This new space gives us the opportunity to do just that.” — IN BRIEF REPLAY OPENS NEW CARNABY STORE Denim giant Replay has opened a brand new shop on London’s Carnaby Street. Having occupied retail space on the iconic shopping street for several years, the brand has moved to 11-12 Carnaby Street. Spanning 2,500 sq ft of retail space, the store stocks the latest men’s and women’s collections from Replay, We Are Replay and Replay One Off. The new shop also features a classic mosaic floor piece on the ground floor, as well as an acidtreated brass finish to a modern staircase.
HUGO BOSS TO DOUBLE AT LIVERPOOL ONE Designer label Boss, part of the Hugo Boss group of brands, is extending its store at Liverpool One to create a new 4,158 sq ft boutique. Situated on Peter’s Lane, the label is upsizing by expanding into the floor above its existing store, and will stock the full Boss range of contemporary men’s and womenswear, plus accessories and other lifestyle products. It is the first time the womenswear will be available at the Liverpool store. Work on the extended double-height, glazed façade of the shop is under way, with the opening scheduled for this autumn.
We are very grateful for the renewed interest in tailoring and fashion from the younger demographic of men. Largely on account of how they have met the needs of this growing market, our menswear collections are performing well. It helps that men tend to be more brand loyal than women, so we can back our bestselling brands confidently. This season our bestsellers have been Ted Baker, Polo Ralph Lauren Golf, Tommy Hilfiger, Crew clothing and Camel Active. Austin Reed joined us a year ago after it revamped its offering. It has delivered a strong product line for s/s 15 and has sold well. At Browns York, we trade on an exceptional range of products and great customer service, so the introduction of Austin Reed’s bespoke suit-fitting service at a key price point of £399 has had a fantastic response from our customer base. It’s producing exquisite clothes and great options for personalisation, which is where the point of difference is as far as our customers are concerned. This bespoke and personal service has been a real hit with the 30-35 year-old man. There is a sense in which menswear as a sector is playing “catch up” and having something of a renaissance. This is especially the case with British brands, and Austin Reed’s refreshed royal warrant design is a good example of how it has modernised British heritage to tap into this market. Generally speaking, men appear far more aware of how they look, and social media has heightened this awareness of fashion and trends. Men seem prepared to invest more in their appearance, and what may have once been a reluctant purchase is far more likely to be a willing one. The rise in the popularity of the skinny fit three-piece suit has boosted the sales of ready-to-wear suits, both casual and formal. Most of our buying is carried in London showrooms although we also attend Moda and Pure. We plan to visit Pitti Immagine in Florence next year; it’s important to stay open-minded. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk
AUGUST 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 17
SHOPPED: HENRY THREADINGHAM How has this summer’s trading been for you? Overall, it’s been pretty good for both stores. It’s certainly been a big turning point for the new shop. Farnham only opened in 2013, whereas my dad opened in Richmond in 1979. This season has only been our fifth in Farnham, and the difference has been massive to when we first opened. Going into a different town, it takes time to build a business and build confidence with the clientele. Farnham is a smaller place, and you haven’t got a huge amount of passing trade. The people have to know you, and know the shop, in order to start coming in. Now, two years in, we’re able to buy more accurately for the customer in this area. It’s about HENRY getting one-to-one conversations going and building a bit of THREADINGHAM, trust and loyalty. Once people spend in here, they tend to STORE MANAGER AND BUYER, LIZARD come back. MENSWEAR, — RICHMOND AND What brands have been performing? FARNHAM We have found that denim and casualwear seems to work better in Farnham, whereas in Richmond it’s a little bit more clean in terms of what sells. Edwin is still my strongest denim brand in Farnham. Paul Smith Jeans was slow to start with here, while it’s wellestablished in the Richmond shop. But I ended up spending around twice as much with them for Farnham and, as a result, it’s now doing really well. Some new brands to us that we introduced this summer have been brilliant. B.D. Baggies has performed really well, and Gant Rugger has also been a nice introduction. —
IN FOCUS: ACADEMY CLOTHES
ORLEBAR BROWN HOSTS IN-STORE EVENT WITH MARCELLO MORANDINI
LIFEBOAT HILL, ST IVES, CORNWALL TR26 1LF
ESTABLISHED: 2008 BRANDS: NORSE PROJECTS, FOLK, ARMOR LUX, NATIONAL ATHLETIC, CARHARTT, VANS, NEW BALANCE, NIKE, NANAMICA, SUNSPEL, BAG ‘N’ NOUN, MOSCOT ORIGINALS, FILSON, NORTH SEA CLOTHING, SATURDAYS SURF NYC, UNIVERSAL WORKS, CLARKS ORIGINALS, SOULLAND
Orlebar Brown hosted an event at its Westbourne Grove store to celebrate the arrival of the Marcello Morandini men’s swim collaboration. Morandini was at the store to showcase his work to shoppers and party guests. Continuing with Orlebar Brown’s signature use of print and pattern, the capsule collection explores a mono use of colour with a graphic approach to design, architecture and sculpture. Marcello Morandini’s work has been adapted to create a sense of illusion adorning the brand’s classic Bulldog & Setter tailored swim shorts and shirts. Its inspiration focuses on geometrics and symmetry, alongside the use of reflection. — IN BRIEF
Academy Clothes opened its doors in early 2008, in brother-and-sister partnership James and Kate De Seta’s home town of St Ives. They wanted to introduce a new set of brands to Cornwall that hadn’t been seen before, and generally offer a different shopping experience. They’ve certainly managed to achieve that with some distinction. James De Seta says, “We are a family business and we operate three stores in the town. We try to work with brands that have a good heritage and quality that we can hopefully build a good working relationship with. We are really lucky to be supported by a very loyal local customer base along with visitors that come back to us year on year.” He says that, in recent seasons, they have found themselves buying a much more rounded lifestyle offering, such as grooming products and homeware. This led to the opening of Port Of Call, which is a dedicated lifestyle store selling books, skincare, ceramics, homeware and other items. Back at Academy Clothes, though, and important brands include the likes of Carhartt, Sunspel, Filson, Norse Projects, Armor Lux, Nike, Vans and Clarks Originals. “We also have some great new brands coming for in for a/w 15 such as Our Legacy and Private White VC,” says De Seta. —
JUNE SALES GROWTH SURPASSES EXPECTATIONS A strong finish to June ensured that sales were “the strongest in 18 months”, according to new data released by the BRC-Nielsen Shop Price Index. UK retail sales increased by 1.8 per cent in direct comparison with June last year, representing the strongest growth since January 2014. “The retail industry performed strongly last month, experiencing the best overall sales growth for some time,” says director general at the British Retail Consortium Helen Dickinson. “Fashion sales were up, but this was likely helped by several retailers entering summer sales a little earlier this year. We also saw welcome signs of growing consumer confidence, with people more willing to trade up and spend a bit more on big-ticket purchases.”
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BACK TO BUSINESS Looking at fundamental issues affecting retail, such as harnessing the power of social media and forward planning to maximise Christmas sales, MWB asks some of the industry’s key experts to share their advice and knowledge as we move into the new season. — to prevent a licensee acquiring ownership rights in the trade mark and ensure that you keep control of any claim for trade mark infringement.
LICENSING UP YOUR BRAND VALUE Your brand is identified by your trade mark, a form of intellectual property. Like any piece of property you can use it or permit others to do so. Third-party use can add value to your brand. First in generating an income stream through licence fees. Second by growing the brand envelope. Third by giving rise to the possibility that at some point you will take back the licence and build on the goodwill which has been built up for you by the licensee. So what are some of the dos and don’ts of licensing? THE “DOS” Do think carefully about your objective: What is your objective in licensing your brand? But before thinking about the financials, make sure that relevant trade mark registrations have been obtained or at least applied for in the relevant product lines and in the countries which matter for a prospective licensee. Do control the quality of the goods sold under your trade mark: The right to use the trade mark granted to the licensee is temporary. It is critical therefore that the reputation and value of the trade mark increases during the course of the licence, not decreases. Key to this are quality and ethical control provisions in the licence agreement. These can be achieved by carefully specifying the nature and quality of the licensed goods to which the trade mark may be attached. If the licensee offers commercially unsuccessful products, the future of the brand may be compromised. Provide for the right to see and approve samples and the places where they are made before products are put on the market. Do ensure that your ownership of the trade mark is protected: Under UK law, any mark that has not been used commercially for five years can be declared invalid. Safeguards should be put in place to ensure that a licensee does make use of its rights and keeps the registration alive. Conversely, in the UK and some other territories, licensees can acquire rights through use of a mark. This can happen if a mark that is not registered for particular goods is used for those goods and acquires distinctiveness. Include in the licence agreement provisions
THE “DON’TS” Don’t think that licensing is a one-way bet: Licensing objective determined, give thought to possible licensees. What is the track record? Can you work with the licensee? How easy or otherwise will it be to manage them – a very significant issue given the ability of a licensee to damage your brand. It is important to ensure that you have the resources to police the licence agreement. Don’t find yourself liable for defective goods: Even if the goods have been inspected to ensure they are of sufficiently high quality to match the brand and carry the trade mark, a trade mark owner will not want to be held liable for any claims relating to defective goods. Don’t find yourself in breach of competition law: While it may be tempting to fix the price at which the licensee sells (particularly in the luxury goods sector, where a brand owner wishes to protect its reputation for quality and luxury), such activity is prohibited under EU competition law and is illegal in the UK. Done correctly, licensing can add greatly to a brand but the pitfalls are there for unprepared brand owners. STEPHEN SIDKIN (PARTNER) AND VERONIQUE BERGAU (TRAINEE SOLICITOR) FOX WILLIAMS LLP. WWW.FASHIONLAW.CO.UK / WWW.FOXWILLIAMS.COM
there is less engagement, creativity and loyalty toward the goals of the organisation, leading to a shortage of talent and fierce competition to retain the best. The cost of hiring new people is one of the biggest expense items in most organisations. In the long run, losing talent also impacts on the customer’s brand loyalty. So how can organisations put “talent” and “customers” back into the heart of their business? The underlying theory of a people-focused management is the belief that “the right people and the right behaviours in the organisation” are key drivers for ongoing performance, and the idea that is reinforced is “the organisation is a place for people to fulfil their potential and become successful.” The long-term results of a more people-focused approach are significant. Deloitte conducted research on the performance cultures within global organisations, and they show that organisations with a strong coaching and development culture perform better than their peers in terms of: • Innovation – 46% more likely to be the first to market • Time to market – 34% better response to customer needs • Quality – 26% more likely to deliver quality products • Skills for the future – 58% better prepared to meet future demand • Profitability – 17% more likely to be market-share leader Profit increases when people are placed at the forefront of the performance culture, not the other way round. SHIRLEY SOODEEN AUTHOR, BUSINESS COACH AND DEVELOPMENT SPECIALIST, AND EXPERT IN CREATING HIGH-PERFORMANCE CULTURES FOR LEADING BRANDS. WWW.THEBUSINESSOFPEOPLE.COM.AU
“DOING” VERSUS “BEING” CULTURES: CAN “DOING” GOOD CREATE PERFORMANCE? Every day at work we are challenged with notions about what “good management” means. The model most of us know springs from a “doing” culture, where results are the driving force and bottom-line results are the main concern. A person’s value is judged by how much they produce in terms of knowledge, activities and skills – all directed toward an end result that is defined and measured by the profit generated by the organisation. The downside of “doing” cultures is that where people are considered more as liabilities, and profit-and-loss items on a balance sheet,
GET READY FOR THE CHRISTMAS SEASON WITH A FREE FESTIVE RETAIL GUIDE For retailers, Christmas generates a huge amount of revenue and preparing for it can seem daunting, especially if you are an independent retailer stretched for time or feel you do not have the expertise needed to create a detailed plan for a successful Christmas season. For this reason, to help retailers, we at Cybertill – a cloud-based multi-channel retail
system provider – have created a downloadable free guide to Christmas retailing. Preparing for Christmas is a year-long process, so it is important to take a step back and plan for the year ahead. Cybertill’s free guide offers retailers a structure to work from to plan their sales and marketing strategy: from setting goals month-by-month and executing strategy through to reporting on sales in January. Other topics covered include understanding what your competitors are up to by comparing like-for-like products; evaluating your suppliers; building a customer database; tactics for collecting data; planning Christmas campaigns; and Sales. For multi-channel retailers with a store and an e-commerce website, it is vital to ensure your strategy integrates both arms of the business. Additionally, those retailers who often plan around other yearly events such as Easter, Halloween, Bonfire Night and Mother’s Day, can easily apply the guide to these holidays, too. Key selling dates are also covered, such as Black Friday and Cyber Monday, which were traditionally American discount days, yet in 2014, they became more prominent and many UK retailers took part. Cybertill currently provides its cloud-based retail system, which comprises Epos, e-commerce, mail order and back office software, to over 650 retailers and is used across 4,500 locations in the UK. Cybertill’s free guide to Christmas retailing is available for retailers to download now at www.cybertill.co.uk/xmas-guide. IAN TOMLINSON CEO OF CYBERTILL, A CLOUD-BASED RETAIL SYSTEM WHICH INCORPORATES EPOS, ECOMMERCE AND MAIL ORDER APPLICATIONS. WWW.CYBERTILL.CO.UK
AUGUST 2015 | BUSINESS EXPERTS | 19
the marketplace operator. Online marketplaces such as Amazon, eBay, Etsy and Notonthehightstreet.com offer unrivalled opportunities for existing retailers who can now sell their products in previously untapped territories to new customers, as well as new, independent retailers who have an avenue to sell their goods – all without the risks and expenses involved with “‘setting up shop” in physical form. To maximise this opportunity, retailers need to consider the most effective ways to engage with consumers. Catering for a target demographic is crucial to successfully breaking into new territories, as retailers must compete with local, established retailers in addition to millions of others from around the world. In order to differentiate themselves, new entrants to a specific retail market or marketplace must have a comprehensive understanding of what will make their brand stand out and attract shoppers to that brand. However, retailers will need to carefully consider customer demographics in order to determine how to target customers in the most effective way. For example, search terms and keywords used to describe products must be angled towards the correct age and gender, so as not to risk products getting lost. It is also essential that the back-office processes, such as the supply chain, deliveries and returns, are implemented and managed successfully. Online marketplaces can also be a good option for retailers looking to expand globally. However, it is vital that retailers understand their target market, customers, and the various trends and changes in all the marketplaces they are trading in. By constantly monitoring and optimising their products across these multiple sites, at an individual product level, retailers will be able to attract, win and retain customers much more effectively. STEVE RIVERS IS THE CEO OF INTELLIGENT REACH, EXPERT IN PRODUCT LEVEL MARKETING, DATA QUALITY & PERFORMANCE – WITH CLIENTS INCLUDING HOUSE OF FRASER, ARGOS AND SUPERDRY.
ONLINE MARKETPLACES: DESIGNING FOR DEMOGRAPHICS The rise of mobile technology means consumers can make purchases online at any time, from any location. The move away from high-street shopping and towards online spending means that traditional barriers to commerce are being broken down, and retailers can access customers all over the world by using multichannel methods. This flexibility has meant the number and size of online marketplaces has risen rapidly. Marketplaces are an inexpensive, low-risk and easy way for retailers of any size to set up shop and sell online, or to support an existing online strategy. On such sites, product and inventory information is provided by the third-party sellers or retailers, and transactions are processed by
HOW TO HARNESS THE POWER OF VISUAL SOCIAL MEDIA In-store, shopping for clothes is a visual experience – from flicking through rails to looking at what other shoppers are wearing. But shopping on the high street is also a social experience, too. And it doesn’t make sense for online shopping to be any different. Shoppers still
want to be inspired by what they see and be able to discuss the products they like. Below are ways in which retailers can use visual social networks Instagram and Pinterest to engage shoppers online. Instagram: In the age of the selfie, shoppers love to feel part of something by sharing their own photos – with themselves as the fashion model. That’s where Instagram comes into its own for fashion retailers. Encouraging user-generated content (UGC) with competitions is a great way to engage with shoppers. But it also creates a catalogue of your products, as worn by your customers. With social proof an increasingly important part of the purchase decision, many customers want to see your clothes worn and recommended by real people – and Instagram is the perfect platform for this. Beyond UGC, retailers can use Instagram to create lifestyle content. For instance, Nike Women has a shoppable Instagram store (using third-party services), which shares visual content around fitness and exercise, along with fashion photography. The aim is to inspire shoppers and make it easy to purchase – by allowing customers to add products to their shopping basket directly from Instagram. However, using Instagram as an e-commerce platform is still far from perfect – and requires arguably too much effort on behalf of the user. As a result, some fashion retailers have taken a different approach. For instance, Michael Kors launched #InstaKors, a registration-based email subscription that responds to Instagram followers’ “likes” with emails containing further product information. Pinterest: Pinterest is all about images. But where it differs to Instagram is that there’s less focus on UGC. Instead, it’s a network users turn to for inspiration, ideas and to create visual lists of things they want or like. Luckily for retailers, Pinterest is becoming increasingly integrated with e-commerce, making it easier to convert the Pinterest audience. For example, retailers can utilise rich pins, to include real-time pricing, availability and where to buy a product. What’s more, shoppers can receive price alerts for products they’ve pinned – allowing you to market your products to those who’ve already shown an interest. Plus, there’s plenty of scope for competitions on this network, in the “pin to win” format. A great example of this would be Reiss, which offered entrants a £1,000 shopping spree if they created a board called Reiss – Be Mine – using at least five items from the brand’s s/s range. The shopping experience online can be as visual and social as it is in-store. While Pinterest and Instagram can engage your audience in different ways, you can harness both these distinctly visual networks to see results in the fashion sector. ALEXEI LEE IS HEAD OF SOCIAL AND PROMOTION AT STRATEGY DIGITAL. WWW.STRATEGYDIGITAL.CO.UK / 0845 838 0936
AUGUST 2015 | INTERVIEW | 20
BRAND DIRECTOR HUSH PUPPIES
As iconic footwear brand Hush Puppies makes a return to Moda Footwear this season, brand director François Lepeltier reveals all about the label’s new direction for spring. — Christina Williams: You’re making a welcome return to Moda Footwear this season – what prompted the decision to focus on UK wholesale for spring? François Lepeltier: We’re delighted to be returning to Moda for s/s 16. The show has come a long way, and it will be a great opportunity to share the new collections with existing and potential customers. We can’t wait to launch the new lines and to reveal our s/s 16 campaign, which is all about smiling at life and sharing the fun, light-hearted spirit of the brand. The Hush Puppies product and marketing have really evolved, so we’ll be maximising the potential of the brand over the coming seasons and making more people smile. — CW: What can menswear buyers expect to see within the latest collection? FL: In terms of men’s signature styles, it has to be our Aquaice Wallaboot with translucent rubber outsole and the classic desert boot, both in Worry-Free Suede®. — CW: How does the brand evolve to remain contemporary without alienating its loyal consumers? FL: We have a great team of designers who take inspiration from seasonal trends to evolve Hush Puppies collections each season, staying close to our consumers to remain relevant. Each season we reinvent classic Hush Puppies styles in new prints and colourways and introduce new silhouettes to keep our consumers interested. Customers are extremely loyal to Hush Puppies and we tend to find that they grow with the brand. — CW: Would you say the brand has evolved into a lifestyle concept? FL: It’s certainly true that we are not interested in fashion or fads; status or statements, because
AUGUST 2015 | INTERVIEW | 21
we believe that true style comes from within. We are welcoming to all and exclusive to none; we’re the go-to footwear brand that delivers the right mix of timeless style and dependable comfort. In that respect, I think our consumers do live and love the Hush Puppies lifestyle because they’re confident in their own style and pride themselves on appreciating timeless classic design balanced with on-trend designs. — CW: How have you captured that essence in your forthcoming spring campaign? FL: We can’t wait to reveal our new campaign, inspired by the moments in life that make us smile. We have such a compelling brand story to tell, and social media is our stage to share it and really engage with the Hush Puppies consumer. — CW: The brand has certainly come a long way in 57 years – can you tell us about the heritage behind the Hush Puppies concept? FL: The brand was established in 1958, in Michigan, USA, and it’s fair to say that Hush Puppies invented casual footwear. Wolverine Worldwide – the parent company of Hush Puppies and now the parent company of 15 lifestyle, heritage and performance brands – had been working to develop a practical method for tanning pigskin for the US military. Pigskin is one of the most durable leathers used for gloves and other protective materials, and our company chairman Victor Krause had the idea to make shoes with this material, kindling a fashion revolution in postwar American suburbia and launching a global concept which is still growing today. Since 1958, we’ve been leading this casual lifestyle revolution, helping people to embrace everyday comfort in style. Today, we aim to inspire people to be themselves because we believe that, when people feel great, they look great – and that’s the key to expressing your most genuine self. People have always been drawn to Hush Puppies for our stylish design and exceptional comfort. Our Basset Hound symbolises the kind of light-hearted spirit we have and hope to ignite in others – cheerful, curious to explore and always up for making a new friend.
— CW: When did the brand establish a business model in the UK? FL: The label has been in the UK since 1959, and has over 300 stockists in Great Britain alone. We have a presence in 160 countries across the world and the shoes are manufactured all over the globe, using traditional techniques that have evolved over time to ensure that we maintain the quality for which we are renowned. We have just launched a fantastic new retail concept internationally, but it has not yet reached the UK. — CW: You have 750 stores around the world in addition to your wholesale operation – what is your view when it comes to selling footwear online? FL: We recognise that online is growing and that our consumers want to be able to shop anywhere, anytime, so we really value our online business. While it’s currently relatively small, our online business is definitely growing, and Hush Puppies will continue to grow as a multi-channel brand worldwide. — CW: When did you come on board, and how are you personally shaping the brand for its next era of development? FL: I began looking after Hush Puppies two years ago, although I have been with Wolverine for nine years. I started my career at Rossignol Ski Company in the US where I headed up the inline skate business for North America, before moving on to Bell Sports in London as European trade marketing manager, looking after the Bell and Giro helmet brands. I then made the move into lifestyle, first managing the international business for IKKS Shoes based in France, before joining Wolverine Worldwide and moving back to London to look after the third-party distributor and licensee business in Europe, the Middle-East and Africa for several brands including CAT, Sebago, Harley Davidson and Hush Puppies. In 2013 I took on the role of brand director for Hush Puppies, and I have been tasked with the exciting project of growing this iconic brand in the region.
“It’s certainly true that we are not interested in fashion or fads; status or statements, because we believe that true style comes from within”
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P R O D U C T
SPANISH FLAIR For s/s 16, outerwear specialist Elvine travelled from its native Sweden to Madrid, drawing inspiration from the capitalâ€™s vibrancy and creativity for the new season. To give a cool feel on hot days, the collection features materials such as linen, ultra-thin wool, airy cotton and fine structures such as crepe. Colour palettes, meanwhile, take on an urban summer theme, with washed-out pastel shades and a concrete-like offering of black, grey, white and blue-grey. Excitement comes from oversized foliage and graphic prints, inspired by classic Spanish-Moroccan tiles. In terms of highlights, the new season welcomes sophisticated straight-fit collar jackets in sporty polyester, shirts in cotton and Tencel with zipper fastening instead of buttons and reversible bomber jacket styles in red and grey combinations. â€”
AUGUST 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 24
RADAR Spotlighting style
SLIP INTO SUMMER
304# CLOTHING ESTABLISHED: 2013 — SIGNATURE STYLE: American varsity meets festival. Styles are casual, carrying iconic statements. — HISTORY: After designing and creating vests for Parklife Festival in 2013, 304# Clothing was born out of a desire to create unique and quirky designs. Originally launched in 2013 in a student apartment in Manchester, 304# Clothing was started after a desire to design and create vests for Parklife Festival during the same year. The brand’s customer base soon extended past friends and family and then 304# Clothing was born. From hand-making clothes for friends to a full-scale manufacturing operation distributing worldwide, the label’s expansion was swift. Felt lettering combines with appliqué to create the brand’s signature look and a whole host of unique and quirky designs. Collection influences come from American road trips, travelling down Route 66. Styles take on a laid-back college varsity style, channelling a British twist through quirky bold slogans. The brand is currently stocked in Accent in Leeds, Raggz in Barrow and Furness, Lost Boys in Cleethorpes, Sa-kis in Sheffield and Fusey in Essex. Further afield, the label also has presence in Holland, Italy and the US. For a/w 15, the brand will offer two collections for both men and women. The collection will take on 304# Clothing’s signature laid-back American style, consisting of festival-style pieces featuring witty slogans. Wholesale prices average at £10. —
With an aim to reconstruct the espadrille as a well-constructed shoe, Mulo’s range of lightweight reconstructed slip-on summer shoes are hailed as the perfect accompaniment to workwear during the summer month. Bright colours designed for wear on holiday feature heavily across the brand’s collection, though a host of toned-down colours including brown, charcoal and black are also available. Each shoe in the brand’s collection has been enhanced to provide its wearer with a comfortable yet stylish shoe. Shoes are handmade in Portugal and benefit from features such as the cushioned arch support and breathable canvas materials used on the upper for a trainer-like fit. —
SEA LIFE AND SUMMER VIBES Originally launched in 2012 as an online menswear store, Newfangle has gone from strength-to-strength. Now the brand – which has its roots in Portugal – has announced its latest s/s 16 collection. Inspired by the Atlantic Ocean, the new line reflects good weather, summer sunsets and life by the coast. Sea life and summer vibes are reflected in the label’s use of colour palette across the new collection, with contrasting bold colours featuring separately and together on the same garment. Meanwhile, candy coloured stripes and deck-chair patterns on short-sleeve shirts introduce a subtle retro theme. —
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PRODUCT NEWS Spotlighting style
After gradually expanding its range through the seasons, footwear brand Roy Robson introduces its strongest collection to date. The s/s 16 range offers new shapes and colours to a line that is generally focused around catering for smart-casual styling. Three welt-stitched styles with contrasting tonal pipe colouring and pale soles are tipped to be popular in the range – a Derby, a brogue Derby and a buckled monk shoe. The shoes are hand colour-washed on the toe and heel, creating a marbled effect. Elsewhere, the brand continues its range of sporty styles, introduced to the collection for s/s 15. —
For its s/s 16 collection, Ohw? has introduced an updated look that’s markedly different to its previous lines. Over 40 style, material and colour combinations make up the new line, which is separated into two ranges. The Reflection range offers two boot and four shoe designs; both shoes and boots feature an exaggerated trainer-style sole. The Traveller range offers a more casual option, with designs featuring rubber and phylon soles. —
ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS Penfield celebrates its 40th anniversary later this year. As part of the celebrations, the brand will offer two of its most iconic styles to customers on a limited-edition basis. The two styles include The Kasson hooded parka (pictured) and the The Outback Gillet. Both designs draw on the brand’s original archive collection and will be available in October later this year. —
AUGUST 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 26
RADAR Spotlighting style
TRAVEL AND TECHNOLOGY
HARRIS WHARF LONDON ESTABLISHED: 2009 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Tailored coats and blazers are available in a range of muted colours as well as bold brights, and come in a variety of felted wools and cashmeres. Outerwear features raw edges and is unlined to provide a youthful take on traditional tailoring. — HISTORY: Using their grandfather’s glove-making factory in Turin, Italy, producer and distributer Aldo Acchiardi and designer Giulia Acchiardi create the collection in Italy, using only Italian fabrics. Harris Wharf London is a contemporary outerwear brand that aims to provide reimagined classic formalwear. Based in London but produced in Turin, Italy, the label is infused with London sensibilities. Tailored coats and blazers are provided with a youthful look and are available in felted wool and cashmere fabric. The brand is currently available in contemporary menswear stores and concept stores such as Dover Street Market, Trunk and Autograph, though internationally the brand has presence in Hong Kong, Japan and New York. Collections take on classic patterns, which are reinterpreted in the range and are coupled with unstructured jerseys. Modernity is channelled through unique prints on the brand’s range of blazers, jackets and outerwear, some of which are unlined to provide a raw, youthful look. Italian inspiration is found through the use of luxurious fabrics. Wholesale prices average at £150-£160. —
For s/s 16, Craghoppers utilises 50 years of fabric innovation to create a collection that offers a high level of protection and comfort. The NosiLife Lifestyle capsule collection is casual and fashion-led in its design, while also featuring the latest technology across the line. The high-performance range of shirts, trousers, jackets and tops utilises an insect-repellent fabric, which offers up to 90 per cent protection against biting insects. The fabric also offers its wearer up to UPF50+ sun protection and moisture control properties. Collection highlights include the Albert short-sleeve shirt, available in either a check or geometric print and also the Mercier trouser, which feature a light and streamlined design that’s designed for the summer traveller. —
IN BRIEF PERFECT MATCH French label Palladium Boots has joined forces with Berlin menswear brand Sopopular. The Pampa Hi Sopopular boot is the result of a collaboration between both labels, and will be available from January 2016. Available in three colours including ash grey, black and green, the boot works well combined with a toned down look. Key features include minimal branding, a zip fastening and the boot’s cow suede outer.
AUGUST 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 28
MAIANS £19 0034 3003983
SKOPES £39.50 0113 240 2211
DANIEL WELLINGTON PRICE ON REQUEST 01494 486220
ANTONY MORATO £89.90 020 7739 8560
CHARLIE BORROW £155 07800 728744
BEN SHERMAN £23.10 020 7812 5300
FER PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7225 1774
SIMPLE SHADES Classic in taste yet stylish in look, head-to-toe black and white is an easy choice for those wanting to steer clear of the bold shades synonymous with autumn. Texture lays at the heart of the trend, with knits in both fine and chunky finishes, leathers across accessories and contrast piping spotted on tailoring. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
REALM & EMPIRE £16 01858 466729
CP COMPANY £41 020 7608 9100
THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY £15 01572 824385
AUGUST 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 30
NICCE £18.33 07867 521987 PEREGRINE £38 0117 973 9645 LUKE 1977 £26 01869 366580
GET KNITTED Easing the transitional period between summer and the colder months of autumn, knitwear provides the ideal alternative to outerwear. Interest comes in contrasting weaves, patterns including camo and plaid, and details such as suede buckle fastenings and dip-dye finishes. —
ANIMAL £22.92 08450 267 267
OLIVER SPENCER £49 020 7242 5173
NATIVE YOUTH £14.50 020 7739 7620 N1SQ £13.50 0161 831 3700
Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
ALPINESTARS £30 0039 04235286
barker-shoes.co.uk Facebook-Twitter-Instagram: BarkerShoesLtd See us at Moda, Hall 19 Stand P11 Micam, Hall 4 Stand K38
â€œA great shirt says something about the person wearing it.â€?
See us at: Moda Gent Stand MG03 9th - 11th August 2015 Moda Select Stand SE20 9th - 11th August 2015
T: 01765 640576 E: firstname.lastname@example.org www.knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk
AUGUST 2015 | RICHARD JAMES | PROFILE | 34
RICHARD JAMES MAYFAIR STEPS IT UP Now five years in, Richard James Mayfair – the diffusion line of the Savile Row tailoring brand – is coming into its own with a new creative director at the helm and a fresh focus to grow the UK wholesale side, as Tom Bottomley discovers. —
Richard James first came to prominence in 1992 as one of a new breed of tailors, termed the New Establishment, that also included the likes of Timothy Everest, Ozwald Boateng and Mark Powell. The line on the Richard James Savile Row website reads, “Luxury need not be synonymous with companies founded a century or more ago.” It clearly refers to the long standing Old Establishment of Savile Row which, in the early days, was not taken with a younger upstart coming onto its patch and bending the rules to incorporate more contemporary tailored looks with more of an edge. Heaven knows what they may have thought should he have also had the new Lifestyle collection of luxury casualwear back then. Richard James Savile Row, these days residing at number 29 (with a second store on Brushfield Street in Spitalfields) does of course offer a fine bespoke service in keeping with the Savile Row tradition. But he’s perhaps better known for his ready-to-wear collections, which also target customers with the money to spend on luxury goods. What Richard James Mayfair diffusion line does is give an entry point into the brand and an opportunity to widen distribution. That’s what is now a key focus. With design and sales handled by Prominent Europe, whose offices are below the Chester Barrie shop – opposite the Richard James Savile Row store (Chester Barrie is also owned by Prominent), there is a proper cohesion to ensure that the Richard James signature styles are filtered down so that the Mayfair line is a true diffusion representation of the mainline brand. Regular design meetings with Prominent’s new creative director, Simon Kirby, and the Richard James Savile Row design team, ensure that’s the case. All singing off the same song sheet, so to speak. Richard James made his name on breaking the rules when it comes to tailoring, using different fabrics – including denim and camouflage suits – and playing with construction. The Mayfair entry level line, which launched in 2010, may not be quite so maverick, but it is certainly modern
AUGUST 2015 | RICHARD JAMES | PROFILE | 35
in styling, cut and look. It was initially available exclusively through John Lewis (as it was the department store’s head of menswear at the time, Peter Ruis, who originally approached Richard James to do something for them) in the UK and Barney’s in the US. It was conceived in-house with the realisation that there was an opportunity to create something more accessible. After a couple of seasons, it became apparent that to run such a diffusion operation required different sourcing skills and a different way of doing things. Prominent Europe, which was already making the shirts for Richard James Mayfair, was therefore chosen to take it to the next level. Prominent’s head of marketing and PR, Chris Scott-Gray, says, “We came in and took the licence to run Richard James Mayfair in its entirety. It’s now a significant part of our business, but we are looking to grow it. For us, now the time is right.” John Lewis is still an important stockist, as now is House of Fraser – with seven concessions – and Arnotts in Dublin. But in terms of exposure, the Mayfair line has only scratched the surface. The potential is there, as is the quality of the garments. Other quality department stores, as well as the right independents, could certainly benefit. After all, the Richard James name carries significant weight. According to Scott-Gray, the target customer is in his late 20s, early 30s. “He’s probably just got his first management role or senior role of some sort,” he says. “And he feels he should be wearing a decent suit. He’s moving away from the general high street and wants something a bit more ‘designer’.” There is also an older customer that still wants a younger look without appearing overly “fashionable”. “They don’t want really skinny suits,” says Scott-Gray. “But they want something that’s a little bit more close-fitting and really well-made. The whole point of the Mayfair label is that you get
some of the flair and quality of the Savile Row brand, delivered in a diffusion line.” There is now sufficient distribution for Mayfair to really start to make a noise and develop the wholesale side in the UK. Other retailers of a certain level are being urged to take a fresh look at what they are doing. “There’s still a huge potential for the brand in the UK as well as overseas,” says Scott-Gray. “We just want to step it up.” Suits, shirts, ties, jackets and coats are the order of the day. It’s a well-edited collection, though there are also plans afoot to introduce more outerwear pieces going forward. There are some slightly more casual elements to the shirting offer, as there are some more relaxed jackets but, as a Savile Row brand, the most important aspect is, of course, the suiting. Strong on colour and quality of manufacturing, with clean lines in design as per the mainline, but re-packaged to hit a wider market. Mayfair suits start at £395 retail, and shirts start at £65, so prices are competitive in relation to quality. In fact, other brands sell such a quality at significantly higher price points. Creative director Simon Kirby only joined Prominent Europe around nine months ago, so his first product (for a/w15) has only recently hit the stores. He was previously at the Bagir Group as global brand director and creative director for some 16 years, with labels including Balmain, Patrick Cox and Simon Carter. Says Kirby, “Richard James is a great name in tailoring, and it was always on my list of brands that I’d like to work with. That helps. It just needed a little bit more love and attention to detail.” The first thing Kirby says they worked on was the blocks. “It’s not a radical change, it’s just evolved,” he says. “The blocks are better balanced now. The shirts and trousers are a little slimmer, and the initial reaction has been very good.” The Richard James Mayfair brand’s new journey looks set to begin.
“The whole point of the Mayfair label is that you get some of the flair and quality of the Savile Row brand, delivered in a diffusion line”
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TOPS AND TALES Celebrating its 75th year in business, Double Two is a Yorkshire, and indeed a British, menswear institution. With anniversaries presenting the perfect time to look back on years gone by, Victoria Jackson caught up with two generations of the founding Donner family, Richard and son John, to find out where the brand is heading next. — On entering the reception of Double Two, located in the heart of Wakefield, West Yorkshire, it is clear to see from the offset that family is at the heart of this workforce. A family of employees, many of which have worked for the shirt manufacturer for decades. Greeted by marketing manager Sandra Oxley, who has recently celebrated 50 years with the company, I am also quickly introduced in passing to Double Two’s maintenance man, Gary, the longest-running current member of staff who has just entered an impressive 57 years in employment. A story many are familiar with, Double Two was originally established in 1940 by Issac Donner and Frank Myers, beginning its life by producing work shirts during the war. Despite cotton being in such short supply at the time, the availability of robust viscose rayon meant the duo could create durable and hard-wearing work shirts for the women in factories and farms. However, menswear soon became a focus for Donner and Myers, as soldiers started to return home from war. The patent Donner had acquired from his father for a method of making and attaching a soft collar to a shirt in such a way that it could be removed by pulling a tab sewn into the collar-attaching seam, meant a spare collar could be supplied with the shirt and, alas, the name Double Two name was established. From the early years, innovation has been key to the success of the brand, for example in the 50s when the team formed the first manmade fibre shirts, produced from Terylene, as well as the first blended wool shirts with a nonshrink property. Innovation ran in the Donner’s blood, as Issac’s son Richard – or Ricky as he is more fondly referred to among employees – officially joined the company in 1963, helping to develop a product called White Light, an all-cotton shirt with a percentage of polyester
blended into the collars and cuffs to give them added strength. The full shirt was then treated with a specially developed resin, which gave it non-iron properties. “I say ‘officially joined’, but I’d been on the factory floor since I was around three years old, doing odd jobs for my father, which sometimes included playing on the chutes that connected the production process,” says Richard. In 1993, however, it became clear that the independent clothing shops and even smaller department store groups, which formed the bulk of Double Two’s customer base, had started to decline under the onslaught of own-label chains such as Next, M&S and Arcadia Group. It was in 1995 when Richard Donner’s son, John Donner, joined the company and the pair decided to launch their own retail concept, an American idea of “brands for less” here in the UK. By bringing in a carefully handpicked selection of trousers, knitwear and ladies’ co-ordinates, the company attracted a wide audience to its 24 shops. Another change that impacted the brand in the 90s was its transition from British manufacturing to off-shore production due to the increased expense of making a product on home soil. With six factories and over 1,700 people in employment, the change was a difficult one for the Donners, who classed so many workers as genuine friends. “When we had to make redundancies, we worked hard with staff to help them find another job,” says Richard. “Would we ever bring back manufacturing to the UK? I’d never say never, but right now the expense is so high and there are so few skilled machinists – everyone wants to be the fashion designer, but we need people to produce these clothes as well. So, for now, it’s doubtful.” With an export business spanning over 40 countries, including Canada, as well as Africa and the Middle East, it was in 2013 when Double Two
was recognised for its services to international trade and was among the winners of The Queen’s Award to Industry. “We have received many awards over the years, but The Queen’s Award is our most prestigious, and I thank all our staff for working hard to achieve this,” said Richard at the time of being presented with the accolade at the Wakefield site by HRH The Duke of Kent. Never one to rest on its laurels, last year saw the brand add a new offer – Old Salt – to its roster of labels, which include Double Two, semi-casual line Bar Harbour and premium label Paradigm, featuring non-iron pure cotton designs. Old Salt was a concept designed to enter potential new markets, with a younger, more trend-led design ethos. “Once we gauge the reaction and success of it with our current stockist base, we will roll it out to new customers,” says John. “We wanted this new direction to bring in the next generation for Double Two.” Reaching an impressive 75 years in business is no mean feat. And with such celebrations comes the production of miniature Double Two shirts from the 50s made by Barbie manufacture Mattel to celebrate the milestone – a miniature representation of a life well-lived. It’s just one more thread in the rich tapestry that has become the Double Two institution throughout Yorkshire and beyond.
Visit Jockey on Stand ME28 at MODA 9-11 August
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MODA SPRING/SUMMER 2016 9-11 August 2015, NEC Birmingham
Your essential guide to the UK’s largest fashion exhibition, from the people to the product to catch at this month’s edition. —
MODA GENT THE PEOPLE MWB speaks to five key industry insiders exhibiting at Moda Gent this season to discuss wholesale strategies moving forward, what the new season has in store and challenges they’ve faced over the past season. —
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ALEX FOLEY, HEAD OF WHOLESALE
JASON LYNCH, UK AGENT (LABEL LAB)
You’re returning to Moda after a five-year hiatus. Why now? S/s 16 will mark a decade in the business for Without Prejudice and, in those 10 years, we’ve experienced real organic growth in the UK and Ireland. We’ve always avoided pushing too hard and instead let the product do the talking, but Moda is a great platform for any brand. We wanted the opportunity to showcase the line for those who might not get the chance to visit our London showroom, and celebrate the success of the brand with both new and old faces. What is your wholesale business strategy moving into the new season? Strong with few, rather than weak with many. Without Prejudice is a product that needs to be bought in confidence in order to deliver its message. By working with accounts that are open to trying new things and taking a few risks, we’ll both see the rewards. After all, the more confident the buyer, the more confident customers will be. How many accounts are you looking to open during the show? We’re firm believers in quality not quantity. There are, of course, stores visiting that we’d like to work with, but the fit has got to be right for both of us. We’ve never shoehorned ourselves into places, but we do offer something noticeably different that remains commercial. Building with our current accounts is integral to the brand’s overall growth. What can buyers expect for s/s 16 in terms of collection? The collection airs a no-fuss-cool about it. Deconstructed jackets play a big part, with linen and hop-sack fabrics adding to the effortless appeal. Jacquard prints appear in shirts, jackets and even suits so there are definitely a few talking points. We always try to have fun with what’s hitting the runways but never lose sight of who our customer is. What’s next for the brand? We’ve recently launched a younger diffusion line, WP, within our retail concepts – which has been received very well. While we won’t be wholesaling it, the range is relevant as the aim is to offer the Without Prejudice main label as an independentonly line. This removes any threat of parallel trading and price matching; both increasing issues for stockists of many of the big brands. —
Gaastra is making its debut in the UK at Moda this season. What are you looking to achieve from the show? When I set up Label Lab, it was with the intention of bringing to the UK the best brands with the best heritage to showcase what is in Europe and selling in the world’s best stores. To do that you need to enter the market at the right level and be at the right shows. I’ve selected Moda above any show to demonstrate this intention as, in my opinion, Moda attracts the correct profile of stores and buyers relevant to Gaastra. I’ve not set a target of number of stores – what is important is the profile and brand adjacencies along with the look and feel of the store. Tell us about the brand... Gaastra is an international nautical lifestyle label, featuring performance and casual collections for men, women and children. The brand, which was founded in 1897, started as an innovative sailmaker in Sneek and has grown to become a label with international appeal. It’s a partner of sailing events such as Les Voiles de Saint Barth and sponsor of such professional sailing teams as the Quantum Racing Team and Team Brunel in the Volvo Ocean Race. At the national level, Gaastra also has a wonderful partnership; the brand is a sponsor of the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam, Round of Texel and the Sneek week. Which brands would you say Gaastra sits comfortably next to? Napapijri, Tommy Hilfiger, Marco Polo, Gant and Henri Lloyd. The cutting edge, functional technologies used in Gaastra are also used in the designs of our Gaastra Sport and Gaastra Breton clothing lines, and are transformed into fashionable everydaywear. The combination of high-end sailing technology and exceptional fashion is what makes Gaastra and our collections so unique. What can buyers expect from the s/s 16 collection? With the designs in the new range, Gaastra looks back at major and international evolution that the brand has gone through since its namesake, Douwe Gaastra, began as a sail-maker in Sneek in 1897, at the age of 22. What made him great were iconic pieces such as the crew jacket, pea coat and polo shirts. Gaastra is now paying tribute to these pieces with an on-trend approach with new fits and designs. —
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ELAINE GUNN, BRAND MANAGER (BMB GROUP)
WARD MANN, UK AGENT (DOUBLE TWO AGENCY)
JASON MCKEY, NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER
How has business been over the first half of the year? It’s been very encouraging. We’re seeing continued growth in both our seasonal and stock service collections. Demands for new introductions and product categories have further strengthened our first half performance. What challenges would you say you’re facing in the current climate? Making sure our stocks levels meet the demands, especially in stock service. This has been helped by retailers committing to new lines prior to their launch date – which gives a great indication and insight as to how a product is expected to perform. What has the initial response been to the s/s 16 collection? Extremely positive. We feel it’s our best spring/ summer collection to date, offering a colourful palette with attention to detail, while also remaining commercial. Mix-and-match suits include a jacket, trousers, waistcoat and shorts, as well as summer jackets, standalone waistcoats and chinos coupled with fine merino knitwear and shirts. Our colour palette, meanwhile, encompasses navy, pale blue, raspberry, apple green, fuchsia and terracotta. What is your wholesale business strategy moving into the new season? We want to keep focused on what works in both terms of sales and sell-though, ensuring we listen to our customers. I believe in a partnership, working together to achieve the same goals – which creates a win-win ethos. Moda has always been encouraging when it comes to opening new doors; it’s a great place to showcase our entire collection, and this always attracts new business. —
What is your wholesale strategy moving forward into the new season? At present, we have 45 premium menswear accounts in the UK and Ireland. Our strategy is to continue to open premium independent stores in the UK, developing the presence of the brand in the UK by offering basics with diverse and commercial collections that offer styles the customer will not find from our competitors. We have also developed Eden Park furniture and soft shop concepts to assist the customer in the launch of the brand and also to give the full Eden Park look even in smaller spaces of independent and department stores. What would you say is the biggest challenge that the brand faces? Our adjacent brand competitors – Ralph Lauren, Gant, Tommy Hilfiger and Hackett – have dedicated spaces in stores and have been established and selling for some time in our target locations. However, we’re overcoming this by being more flexible with our buying conditions and working with retailers in season to enable a better sell out. We’re also offering a selection of colours and added styling, yet the price has not been increased. What does s/s 16 have in store? Our collection for s/s 16 is colour-filled with pastel shades including pinks, blues, yellows and greens, offering the customer the ability to mix with usual blue and grey tones that are traditionally seen throughout most menswear collections. We have two parts to the collection: Casual Club, which is lifestyle with key core polos, shirts and lighter knitwear pieces; and Casual Sport, which is more fashion-inspired, and offers slimmer fits and fashion-forward designs. This area has been where we’re experiencing significant growth within our business. What’s next for Eden Park? We have a collaboration with the RFU where we sponsor all six nations rugby union games. We are also the official sponsor of the England rugby team’s suiting. The brand will play a part in the forthcoming World Cup, with exclusive tickets to key games for customers and advertising in fanzone areas. We regularly take customers to Twickenham for England internationals where we offer full hospitality, mixing with ex-international players and first-class match tickets. —
How is business currently faring within the UK for Farah Classic? The business has been very strong for the first half of this year. The continued new developments within the collection has helped us achieve double-digit growth year-on-year. What challenges are you facing in the UK market? The main change I’ve seen is our age demographic. The need for newness is a key driver within the collection. Five years ago, when I first started, formal trousers were very much the bread and butter of the classic range. Five years on, trousers are still key, but denim, new cotton trouser/knitwear developments, woven shirts and a core replenishment programme are all helping us grow within the marketplace. What is your wholesale business strategy moving into the new season? We are always looking to open with new business partners that will help the brand continue its growth. Over the past season, we’ve opened with a few key accounts that are bringing the brand to a new consumer. Now we’re looking at add to our key and independent account base. We feel that the commercial price points within the collection are hard to be missed. In terms of Moda, do you have a set target of doors to open for s/s 16? Moda has been a very good trade show for the Farah brand. Over the past two shows, we have opened with over 20 retailers. Our aim is to at least achieve the same number for the s/s 16 edition. What’s next? Within the Perry Ellis Europe family – the parent company of the Farah brand – we’re very excited about launching Perry Ellis American for s/s 16. The namesake brand will be a major development for us in Europe, with key retailers in UK and across the continent committed to supporting the line. There are some very exciting times ahead for Perry Ellis Europe. —
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MODA GENT – THE BRANDS With one of its strongest line-ups to date, Moda Gent brings together a host of familiar faces and new signings across mainstream and contemporary menswear. — Lifestyle label MCGREGOR offers three deliveries this season – Take Ivy, Club Newport and Black Island Summer. Take Ivy is a preppy mix of chambray shirts, narrow legged denims and classic chinos, while Club Newport is filled with soft pastels, teamed with goat suede leathers, twill chino shorts and heritage pique polos. Black Island Summer, meanwhile, is a collection of T-shirts in light, fluid jersey and finished with a relaxed V-neck and small chest pocket. Stand ME31 Blues tones are central to the s/s 16 offering from BRAX, with a palette including denim blue, azure and light pastel shades. In terms of fabrication, meanwhile, a highlight is the launch of Hi-Flex – a 60 per cent highly elasticated material to ensure freedom of movement. Other trouser must-haves are slim five-pocket styles and exclusive pique structures in cotton stretch. Stand MB29 Presenting a comprehensive collection of tailored options, jackets and waistcoat sets designed to be dressed up or down are among the key themes for SKOPES this season. Natural fibres are mixed with man-made blends to create wearable pieces in linen and cotton. Stretch waist chinos and shorts, meanwhile, come in a summer appropriate palette of coral, pistachio, cornflower, sand, ecru and navy. Stand MF20 The season’s focus is on texture and tone with an understated use of colour for British label REMUS UOMO. The brand stays true to its clean, tailored aesthetic while playing with softened shapes, embracing a more relaxed take on tailoring. Fabrics include washed cotton, linen mixes and lightweight tweeds, complemented by slubbed cotton, knitted jersey and melange yarn. Stand MH20
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Menswear label CAMEL ACTIVE will unveil a new direction at this season’s Moda Gent with the launch of its Unknown Path collection. Inspired by the freedom of life on the ocean, the range alludes to nautical styling with a refreshing colour palette of sea greens and ocean blues. Texture is also a key focus for the brand, as it accentuates each style with patchwork, multi-pockets and button, cord and rope detailing. Stand MB28 SEIDENSTICKER draws its inspiration from architectural features and the Bauhaus style for s/s 16, where prints include geometric circles, squares, rectangles and triangles. Clean lines and simple silhouettes create the base for a palette of light greys, ocean green, lilac, vivid blue and charcoal – offset by the use of coral as an accent colour. Stand MB41 BENVENUTO returns with its Black Label collection, putting a strong focus on the jacket for s/s 16. Semi-casual looks in new unconstructed shapes show a high level of development for the category, while function meets tradition with the label’s latest design, the Revolution Blazer, which is created from breathable, air-permeable, moisture regulating jersey. Stand MA28 The latest offering from DIGEL’s sub-collection, MOVE, is categorised by a selection of key pieces – the Move Air modular suit, sports jackets, trousers, shirts, knitwear and hosiery in a colour range comprising black, white and grey. Key detailing includes waterproof zips and cuffs, funnel collars and the inclusion of mesh. Stand MD40 Smart business themes are skilfully combined with fashionable elements at shirt specialist ETERNA for the new season. Split into three deliveries – Semifreddo, Sun Deck and Summer Splash – the collection is summed up by premium fabrics and a close attention to detail. Semifreddo, for example, heralds a pastel yet masculine colour scheme, while Sun Deck utilises light fabrics with dobby weaves and interesting weave patterns. Finally, Summer Splash is a refreshing palette of orange, pink, cobalt and bleached aqua. Stand MC32 British tailoring label BLADEN returns to Moda Gent this season with a new collection that repositions its heritage for the contemporary market. Fabrication is key to the brand’s s/s 16 offering, with Supasax Lite cloths forming the backbone of the brands spring tweeds, while wool, silk and linen mixes create the ideal summer jackets. Linings are in satin and tinto filo, while buttons are real horn, mother of pearl or corozo. Stand ME10 Established in 1972, Danish menswear label BERTONI takes its inspiration from its Nordic roots while still drawing on global fashion trends. The new season will see the brand return to Moda Gent with a collection of suits in new lightweight natural fibres, combined in graphic or structured weaves. In terms of shirts, buyers can expect to see either stark white or botanical inspired prints. Stand MB30
BENVENUTO BLACK LABEL
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BJORN BORG will present its full collection at Moda, including its performance underwear, which is designed for high-intensity workouts. Made from lightweight polyamide, which is both breathable and smooth, the range features geometric patterns inspired by faded mosaic. Moda will also see the unveiling of the brand’s latest concept – lightweight underwear. The light-weighted microfibre is sleek and breathable, with new seams and a cleaner cut. Stand ML12 Designed to target the younger – and young at heart – customer, COLOURS & SONS is a trend-led lifestyle brand at an attainable price point. Knitwear and shirts make up the core of the collection, complemented by sports jackets, down jackets and accessories. Sister label to Fynch Hatton, the brand is looking to open new accounts nationwide this coming season, and compares itself to the likes of Scotch & Soda, Selected and Boss Orange. Stand MB30 Family owned menswear label MAGEE celebrates 150 years in the trade this season with a special anniversary launch at Moda Gent. The brand, which was founded in 1866 in Donegal Town, Ireland, will incorporate all the hallmarks of its heritage into a relevant and contemporary collection for s/s 16. Inspired by its rich archive, the range will feature silk, wool, linen and cashmere blends in herringbone, hounds-tooth, Donegal and Glen check weaves. Stand MF10 Short-order denim specialist DML (Denim Merchants Ltd) will make its debut at the August edition of Moda Gent. Presenting its a/w 15 collection, the brand is looking to build on the success of its summer collection. For the new season, DML is looking to expand the label’s coverage in UK, with a target of opening 40-plus accounts. Stand MH16 Following its launch in a/w 15, GLOVERALL’s premium lifestyle collection 1951 unveils its first summer range. The brand’s iconic outerwear collection is led by a lightweight mid-length duffle coat, creating using washed and proofed cotton. Super-lightweight technical fabrics come to the forefront for s/s 16, including washed resin-coated cotton, which is used across coach jackets and racer-inspired blousons. Stand MF21 The new season will see lifestyle label FYNCH HATTON introduce a new tailored-fit option to its knitwear and shirting, incorporating a reduced chest and arm hole for a contemporary fit. Pastels are key, although the fresh spring palette is given a masculine edge through structured shapes and two-tone designs. Stand MB31
COLOURS & SONS
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HAWKINS & SHEPHERD makes its return to Moda Gent for s/s 16, following a successful debut last edition. Presenting both a/w 15 and new-season stock options, the brand will also offer its first button-down shirt range, using premium cotton in a pinpoint weave. Pastels, meanwhile, dominate the collection’s colour palette. Stand MG04 The s/s 16 offering at GABICCI CLASSIC consists of fine-gauge and 12g cotton-blend and wool-blend knitwear, shirts in luxe fabrics and knitted tops in cotton and cotton plated fabrics. Modern yet sophisticated, the collection offers a rich, vibrant colour palette for the new season. Stand MD28 A familiar favourite at Moda Gent, British lifestyle label MORLEY returns with its latest range, focusing on the brand’s design DNA – comfortable, timeless, relaxed. While classic pieces such as checked shirts and fine-knit crew-neck jumpers sit comfortably at the core of the collection, interest comes from bold pops of colour such as the mint green chino shorts and the cobalt blue polo. Stand MH11 In-season menswear label SWADE presents its a/w 15 collection, following on from what the brand has dubbed “its most successful season to date”. The new autumn range sees the label take influences from catwalk trends, mixing “British quality with Italian flair”. The collection will also welcome the addition of blazers, coats, jumpers and a waistcoat line. Stand MH31 British menswear label WOLSEY mixes a series of wardrobe classics with interesting, trend-led designs for s/s 16. While grey crew-necks, white textured polos and timeless Harrington jackets form the basis of the collection, buyers can also expect to see bold camouflage prints, textured slub grandad collar shirts and space-dye short-sleeve polos. Stand MH11 PETER SCOTT puts the spotlight on colour this season, injecting new life into its stock service across its cashmere, merino and lambswool offering. Ranging from cool and sea blues to sunshine yellow, orange spice, salmon and bright pink, the collection is certainly summerappropriate. New for s/s 16 is the addition of cotton, with a range of nine colourways offered throughout crew and V neck tops. Stand MG19
HAWKINS & SHEPHERD
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New prints and two-tone designs are the highlights for trouser specialist MEYER this season. Comfort is key, with jersey denims and new super-stretch models maintaining a sleek silhouette, while two new svelte styles with 40cm hem complement the comprehensive range of designs. Stand MB40 Following its successful debut at Moda Gent last season, TIMBERLAND returns to the UK’s largest fashion trade exhibition to showcase both its apparel and footwear offering. Highlights for s/s 16 includes the brand’s Heritage collection, which includes a workwear-inspired M65 jacket, cargo pants and an indigo theme running through its denim offer. Stand MI25 The look for the season at German shirt specialist OLYMP is minimalistic, with interest coming from cut, colour and close attention to detail. Prints dominate, yet are understated, while silhouettes see the addition of small collar shapes and sports-inspired design elements added for s/s 16. Stand MD41 CASAMODA presents its Premium line this season – a collection dominated by classic shades of blue, greys and rose. While prints will always be key to the popular German label, near-plain weave patterns gradually replace classic check or stripe patterns. The trend for small, minimal prints has grown, with detail coming from satin piping, coloured buttons and embroidery on the inside of the garment. Stand MC28 This season, underwear label JOCKEY is highlighting its American heritage, combining both its NOS range and Fashion collection under the umbrella of USA Originals. For retailers and consumers, this move creates a clear brand message. With three colour themes, the s/s 16 collection welcomes all-over prints, stripes and checks, as well as the combination of bold fashion colours teamed with darker tones. Stand ME28
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MODA FOOTWEAR As the footwear sector’s national event, Moda Footwear plays host to a comprehensive selection of men’s brands, all situated conveniently alongside Moda Gent for optimum buying across the sectors. — PARADIGMA Portuguese footwear label Paradigma applies its unique artisan craftsmanship to its latest collection for s/s 16, incorporating hundreds of manual operations that combine both hand-crafted methods and cutting edge technology. Stand V4 JOHN WHITE John White expands its Church Street collection this season with the addition of its Charter style, inspired by the brand’s extensive heritage in Northamptonshire. The label also offers a diversified Lime Street collection in recognition of the popularity of the line’s entry price point and high-grade calf uppers. Stand S1 JUSTIN REECE Justin Reece builds on a successful few seasons with a reworked collection for spring, incorporating lighter materials and softer suede in shades of soft pastel blue and purple. Overall, the wider collection is the brand’s most comprehensive to date, comprising 60 different style options. Stand SE11 THINK Austrian footwear brand Think designs around a philosophy of incorporating no solvents or chemicals into its production without any compromise to style for a collection designed to make customers stop and think. Stand S30 AIGLE Aigle makes a welcome return to Moda, combining French authenticity and craftsmanship with the contemporary direction that appeals to the festival-goer and lifestyle consumer. Look out for Plimsun – the brand’s new urban canvas tennis shoe within the collection. Stand S4
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ORCA BAY Making its Moda debut this season, Orca Bay is a British label specialising in deck shoes. Cut and sewn by hand, each style is crafted from high specification leather for a styles designed to stand the test of time. Stand U1 CHATHAM Chatham debuts its Made in Britain collection at Moda, having brought part of its production back to the UK with the opening of a factory in Exeter, Devon. The full s/s 16 collection includes vibrant deck shoes and a wider offer of men’s footwear in line with the brand’s ever-evolving identity as a full lifestyle label. Stand S9 IKON Ikon designs around the philosophy of taking inspiration from the classic designs of yesteryear and adding a modern signature twist for contemporary relevance. Look out for burnished and high-shine finishes, with unexpected textural overlays for a distinctive upper. Stand X7 HUSH PUPPIES Hush Puppies arrives at Moda following an absence of a few seasons with a spring range designed to appeal to both new and existing customers. Look out for signature men’s styles in the collection – the Aquaice Wallaboot with a translucent rubber outsole and the classic Desert boot, both in the brand’s patented Worry-Free suede. Stand V8 CAT Cat footwear brings its urban utility identity up-to-date for s/s 16 with streetwear accents and allusions to the trend for all things Athleisure. Sportswear influences are prevalent across the range, making for a seasonally relevant collection of both sandals and boots. Stand V2 SEBAGO Sebago celebrates 70 years this year and will unveil an anniversary collection of its signature Docksides at the show, revealing an innovation that brings neoprene deck shoes to the market. Stand V2
AUGUST 2015 | MODA GENT | 50
BARBOUR British label Barbour has evolved into a global lifestyle brand, and this season sees the label celebrate over 120 years of heritage with its latest offer of footwear. Lined with the brand’s signature tartan, each style – from the waxed Oxford to the signature Wellington boot – is designed with contemporary lifestyles in mind while incorporating all the hallmarks of the brand’s rich history. Stand V1 DUDE Combining style and function while prioritising comfort, Dude utilises lightweight stretch textiles and super-light sole technology for the ultimate in relaxed summer footwear. The brand adds its distinctive identity across its range of uppers through striking prints and textures. Stand W7 SUPERGA Superga combines clean, contemporary aesthetics with its century-old Italian craftsmanship for an authentic collection of casual footwear. Stand V3 GUCINARI Crafted in fine leather, Gucinari offers a range of Derby and Oxford brogues, boots, loafers and formal dress shoes. Statement styles including animal print and bold colours are presented alongside more timeless designs for a comprehensive and relevant collection. Stand R11 FISH N’ CHIPS Fish n’ Chips returns alongside big brother label Base London with a new focus on striking graphics. The colourful uppers are crafted from lightweight materials for easygoing summer styles. Stand W6 BARKER British footwear label Barker makes a welcome return to Moda, bringing with it a comprehensive collection of men’s footwear crafted in the same factory as it has been since 1880. Look out for reworked versions of the brand’s signature classics, which include its usual occasional statement offer, designed to offer a wealth of merchandising potential. Stand P11 GOLA Gola takes influence from various sporting fields this spring to deliver a diverse collection designed for active lifestyles. Shoes for running, football and general fitness all feature throughout, transcending the boundaries between lifestyle designs and performance footwear. Stand W8
FISH N’ CHIPS
AUGUST 2015 | MODA | PROMOTION | 52
WHAT’S ON AT MODA Moda provides a comprehensive programme of expert advice, catwalk inspiration and social events. Don’t miss out on everything the show has to offer this s/s 16. —
BE2B Visit the BE2B hub for business inspiration and an insight into the technologies that keep the retail sector ticking. The pop-up area has relocated to a more high-profile location adjacent to the footwear catwalk, and brings together a range of retail services and product providers in one, easy-to-access area. Exhibitors include multichannel software provider Touchretail, stock management and Epos expert Top to Toe, 360-degree product photography specialist Orbitvu, concessions portal for department stores Hallett Retail and bespoke digital marketing expert Pea Soup Digital.
TAKE TIME OUT This season will see the return of the Greg Davis jazz trio, which will add to the chilled-out ambience of the Gent Café. Also take advantage of the Skopes breakfast club, which will offer gent buyers a free coffee and croissant as they arrive through the entrance of Hall 6.
FAB The Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) is the voice of independent fashion retailers. The UK-wide network of FAB members benefit from first class support, savings on essential business services, unlimited free legal advice and specialist representation, helping them to trade more effectively, profitably and sustainably for the future. Passionate about championing independent retailers in a highly competitive market, FAB helps its members stay one step ahead. FAB’s friendly and knowledgeable team will be available on stand MG24 to discuss ways to save you time and money.
CATWALK THEATRE HALL 17 Sunday 9 August 10.00 – 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.15 – 11.45 Fashion catwalk 12.30 – 13.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 13.45 – 14.15 Fashion catwalk 15.00 – 15.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 16.15 – 16.45 Fashion catwalk 18.00 – 18.30 Evening & Occasionwear catwalk & drinks Monday 10 August 10.00 – 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.30 – 12.00 Fashion catwalk 12.45 – 13.15 Evening & Occasionwear catwalk 14.00 – 14.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 16.00 – 16.30 Fashion catwalk 17.00 – 17.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Tuesday 11 August 10.00 – 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.00 – 11.30 Fashion catwalk 12.15 – 12.45 Evening & Occasionwear catwalk 14.30 – 15.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk CATWALK THEATRE HALL 20 Sunday 9 August 10.00 – 10.30 Gent catwalk 11.15 – 11.45 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 12.30 – 13.00 Gent catwalk 13.45 – 14.15 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 15.00 – 15.30 Gent catwalk 16.15 – 16.45 Footwear & Accessories 18.00 – 18.30 Gent catwalk & drinks Monday 10 August 10.00 – 10.30 Gent catwalk 11.30 – 12.00 Footwear & Accessories 12.45 – 13.15 Gent catwalk 14.00 – 14.30 Footwear & Accessories 16.00 – 16.30 Gent catwalk 17.00 – 17.30 Footwear & Accessories Tuesday 11 August 10.00 – 10.30 Gent catwalk 12.15 – 12.45 Footwear & Accessories 14.30 – 15.00 Gent catwalk SEMINAR PROGRAMME CATWALK THEATRE HALL 20 Sunday 9 August 10.30 – 11.00 Marie Davies, Amazon: Making the most of selling online 11.45 – 12.15 Hallett Retail: Essential photography tips 13.00 – 13.30 Jonny Ross: Digital marketing 14.15 – 14.45 Elizabeth Hitchins: Getting started online 15.30 – 16.00 FAB: Your ultimate guide to independent success
RUNWAY ASPIRATIONS Real designs are brought to life on the catwalk, elevating the best of s/s 16 to a real-time fashion showcase. Spot the trends, get merchandiseinspired and take home the best of the season to replicate in-store next spring.
RAISE A GLASS As the industry’s national event, Moda goes beyond the aisles to offer an unrivalled opportunity to network with like-minded professionals. From the complimentary drinks reception at the end of day one to socialising after-hours, the show is the essential meeting place for all aspects of the trade.
Monday 10 August 10.30 – 11.00 The Fashion Network: Fashion funding 11.00 – 11.30 Top to Toe: Online stock management 12.00 – 12.30 FAB: Auto enrolment and the independent retailer 13.15 – 13.45 Nathan Rous: PR on a budget 14.30 – 15.00 Stefan Maurel: Menswear trends 15.15 – 15.45 FAB: Auto enrolment and the independent retailer Tuesday 11 August 11.00 – 11.30 Top to Toe: Online stock management 11.30 – 12.00 Laura Bailey, Actinic: Getting online results 12.45 – 13.15 Pea Soup Digital: Google shopping & paid search HALL 17 Sunday 9 August 10.30 – 11.00 Jonny Ross: Effective social media 11.45 – 12.15 Trendstop: Trend predictions & key themes 13.00 – 13.30 FAB: Your guide to independent success 14.15 – 14.45 Jim Jordan: Doubling profits - a five-step formula 15.30 – 16.00 Elizabeth Hitchins: Multi-channel strategies 17.00 – 17.30 Jon Tromans: Fashion blogging Monday 10 August 11.00 – 11.30 Trendstop: Trend prediction & key themes 12.00 – 12.30 Jeanette Cheetham: Visual merchandising 13.15 – 13.45 Metail: Customer engagement - increase your net sales 14.30 – 15.00 The Fashion Network: Managing cash flow 15.15 – 15.45 Nathan Rous: PR that works Tuesday 11 August 10.30 – 11.00 Jon Tromans: Social media strategy for retail 13.00 – 13.30 Jon Tromans: Increase conversions and help your SEO
Dâ€™Alembi - distributors of Ben Green Shirts to the UK, Ireland and the Channel Islands. Key Accounts & Ireland David Alembick Tel: +44 (0) 7768 345507 North of England & Channel Islands Malcolm Trigg Tel: +44 (0) 7778 310022 South of England Jeremy Dixon Tel: + 44 (0) 7973 407169 Email: email@example.com Website: www.fsh-gmbh.com
See us at Moda, NEC Birmingham 9th - 11th August 2015 Hall 6, Stand MC11
AUGUST 2015 | RETAIL PROFILE | 54
WHEEL OF FORTUNE Roulette Clothing in Jersey is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. To mark the occasion, Rebecca Jackson spoke to owner David Cullen to find out more about running a successful retail destination on the largest of the Channel Islands. —
Opened in 2005, Roulette Clothing celebrates its 10th anniversary later this year. The celebration will be an all-out affair designed to reward the retailer’s loyal customers in a bar-takeover style party, at a venue yet to be named. The party is designed to treat its guests to a celebration evening filled with drinks, giveaways and prizes. Many of the customers attending will include people that owner of Roulette Clothing, David Cullen, has spent the last 10 years getting to know personally. A self-confessed natural salesman, Cullen is in his element on the shop floor. “Selling on the shop floor and working with people is my favourite aspect of retail,” says Cullen. “It’s the only thing I know. People respect me and they
ask for me – which is nice. It’s good to have a bit of banter, a bit of a chat.” Cullen was just 21 when he launched Roulette Clothing. Originally, there were two separate stores, one womenswear and one menswear, located opposite each other on Bath Street in St Helier. The womenswear store was transformed into a tailoring shop five years later. Establishing his own retail venture had been a natural progression for Cullen, who’d always held a keen interest in the fashion retail industry. Cullen ran his own fashion business prior to starting university and worked as a buyer at menswear store Cruise Clothing afterwards. “It’s always been in my blood,” he says. “Since I was four years old and mum dragged me round the shops, the industry has always been a part of me. I
was a buyer, and then it seemed like the next step was opening my own store.” Cullen’s most recent move saw his two stores condensed into one – in a building that looks the part for the retail destination and concept store he hopes Roulette Clothing will one day become. The new-look Roulette Clothing launched as one store split over three levels in July 2014, with a tailoring floor upstairs, a menswear section offering denim and street brands on the ground floor and young contemporary floor stocking sneaker brands in the basement. It’s a decision that’s so far been successful for Cullen and the rest of the team. The new store, located on Queen Street in St Helier, is in a prime location, in a new-look building. “We’d like to get to the stage where
AUGUST 2015 | RETAIL PROFILE | 55
“Selling on the shop floor and working with people is my favourite aspect of working in retail, it’s the only thing I know. People respect me and they ask for me – which is nice. It’s good to have a bit of banter, a bit of a chat”
we are a concept store offering all the top end products, so the location had to be right,” says Cullen. “We want to be a destination store like Colette in Paris or Dover Street Market in London. There are a couple more brands I’d like to add to my mix and then I’ll be happy. “We’re looking to expand the basement and add brands like Nike and New Balance to the mix down there,” says Cullen. “We have a problem trying to reach these brands, though, as we’re not seen as one of the cool concept stores. Jersey needs that type of shop, and we’d like to be it.” Certain elements of Cullen’s store are, of course, determined by the island’s market. “We can’t be too niche in Jersey,” says Cullen. “Hugo Boss and Paul Smith do well in-store and cater for the customers with bigger budgets. Brands like Luke we’ve been running for ten years and they always do very well. The denim offering in general is strong. Brands like Nudie Jeans, Edwin and True Religion are very good for us.” Though the in-store brand mix is generally working well
for Cullen, it seems a Jersey-based retailer is still restricted by some barriers. And, although the market is generally a wealthy one, there are still some drawbacks. With a total population of approximately 90,000, the footfall is much lower than many UK cities. However, thanks to the tax situation in Jersey, the residents generally have a greater disposable income, and the average spend tends to be much higher. Cullen’s decision to offer tailoring is a business decision that’s paid off, thanks to the many finance and business workers residing on the island. “The tailoring floor is a big earner,” says Cullen. “There are many wealthy peple on the island and I’m able to target a large range of customers because we don’t have many of the popular high-street stores here. It was always my goal to have the main menswear store on the Island, and I feel like we have that now.” Things are going well for Cullen. The store is fulfilling its role. Though to reach the next level there are obstacles in place which are mainly due to the island’s geography. “One of the problems is that there are no universities here,” Cullen explains. “This means that, during the summer, trade is great because
the students return home and there are plenty of tourists so, right now, the island is booming. Come winter, that’s when it turns quiet.” Jersey can also feel side-lined by the industry because of its location. “It’s harder for PR, brands and representatives to visit,” says Cullen. “Jersey gets overlooked a lot because of the transport. It’s not as easy for suppliers to visit here as it would be if we were in London.” While acknowledging the drawbacks of the location, Cullen also recognises the many positives, along with the potential of the store, and his expansive objectives for the future of Roulette Clothing also involve moving into design. The end goal would see the retailer offering its customers an own-brand range of basics with items including T-shirts, polo necks and sweatshirts. It seems the move into retail destination might not be too far off. And when taking into account how the store has rolled with the changes and transformed over the past ten years, it wouldn’t be surprising.
Tailor made Against the backdrop of sharp suiting and relaxed casuals sits a plethora of prints and pastels this season, with hints of pink adding to a sea of blues and greens. â€”
Credits Photographs: Chris Harvey www.iamharvey.co.uk Stylist: Victoria Jackson Make-up artist: Lauren Rippin www.laurensally.co.uk Model: Connor McIvor www.nemesisagency.co.uk Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
Blazer ÂŁ52.50 Remus Uomo 0333 4567777 Shirt price on request Duchamp 020 8746 5999
Blazer £134.50 (part of a three-piece suit, not sold separately) Magee 0035 3749721100 Trousers £30 Maddox Street 01442 233700 T-shirt stylist’s own Necklace stylist’s own
Bomber jacket price on request Elvine 020 7723 3211 Shirt £20 Gabicci Vintage 01442 233700 Shorts £20 Merc £20 020 7495 8538
Knitted top £37 Peregrine 0117 973 9645 Shirt £94 Dobson 07734 952960 Shorts £33.35 Barbour 0800 009 988
Opposite T-shirt stylist’s own Belt price on request Dents 01985 212291 Trousers £24 Gibson London 01405 782830
Shirt price on request Sand Copenhagen 020 7608 9100 Waistcoat ÂŁ16.50 Skopes 0113 240 2211
Shirt price on request Seidensticker 0049 521306590 Suede jacket price on request Sand Copenhagen 020 7608 9100 Jeans ÂŁ25 Fynch Hatton 0116 236 2304
Opposite Bomber jacket price on request Elvine 020 7723 3211 Shirt £16.60 Olymp 07917 630743 / 07831 102791 Denim shorts price on request Camel Active 0161 234 0999
Blazer £44 Fynch Hatton 0116 236 2304 Shorts £20.95 Remus Uomo 0333 4567777 T-shirt price on request Camel Active 0161 234 0999
Blazer £45 Scott the Label 01405 782830 Waistcoat £18 Scott the Label 01405 782830 Shirt £36 Barbour 0800 009 988 Trousers (just seen) £32 Bertoni 020 3432 6387
Opposite Double-breasted blazer price on request Duchamp 020 8746 5999 Tailored shorts price on request Duchamp 020 8746 5999 Shirt £29.50 Gloverall 07500 220880
Shirt £22 Merc 020 7495 8538 Belt price on request Dents 01985 212291 Trousers £32 Bertoni 020 3432 6387
Trousers £28 Gabicci Vintage 01442 233700 Brogues price on request 01604 810387
Boat shoes £41.25 Chatham 01392 207062
Opposite Trousers £32 Bertoni 020 3432 6387 Monkstrap shoes £51.75 Loake 01536 415411
Trousers £32 Bertoni 020 3432 6387 Tasselled moccasins £44 Fullerton 01435 423 8659
Trousers £32 Bertoni 020 3432 6387 Boots £48 J Shoes 01858 468123
AUGUST 2015 | NEW ERA | PROFILE | 72
NEW DAWN FOR NEW ERA US headwear label New Era has opened a new concept store at Westfield Stratford, and is launching an apparel line in the UK this autumn. Tom Bottomley gets the heads up from brand director Laurence Joslin. —
With licences to make headwear for all the teams for Major League Baseball (MLB), the National Football League (NFL) and the National Basketball Association (NBA), New Era is certainly a major league player itself when it comes to brands. The big guns it makes for include the likes of the New York Yankees and the Boston Red Sox. No doubt two of the most iconic team logos in sport. It is with those two that New Era is launching its new capsule apparel line, MLB, in the UK this autumn, with tees, sweats, hoodies, jog pants and a coach’s jacket. The distribution strategy will be similar to the headwear, though clothing does offer greater scope to move into other distribution channels. Laurence Joslin, New Era’s brand director of product and marketing for EMEA, and who has been with the label for the past two years, has a big background in the sports industry,
incorporating lifestyle and fashion. He was with Nike for 11 years, including launching the Nike SB line. He says, “We’re the number-one headwear brand globally, and the most authentic on the field of play, so why wouldn’t we produce a lifestyle collection? It may be MLB apparel, but the brand is New Era and people look for that. We have a huge following. We also have the best distribution in place.” With an existing London shop on Soho’s Brewer Street, and another one outside the Bullring in Birmingham, the brand has relocated its Westfield Stratford shop to be inside the mall (instead of on the outskirts). There’s a fresh concept with all-new fixtures and fittings, and even a cap customisation area, where customers can choose their own designs and colours and have their names or initials embroidered on the caps. The all-new flagship, the first of its type, will also carry the latest apparel line.
New Era, which has offices and showrooms in Shoreditch and Milton Keynes, supplies the likes of JD Sports and Foot Locker, but also has a foothold in a more fashion-focused distribution. Even including a collaboration for Dover Street Market at the highest level. Product is also in Urban Outfitters and Schuh, and has been in the likes of Harrods and Selfridges, too. So the appeal is far reaching. The initial small-scale “holiday” apparel line, which will only be going in to limited distribution, is just the start. According to Joslin, apparel will become a bigger part of their business in the future. The range will also start to expand from s/s 16, and they will play with different teams, colours, fabrics and products, and at all different levels of distribution. He says, “Obviously our roots are in sport, but in Europe and the UK in particular fashion and culture is so important to us. And we’ve played in that area too throughout our history.”
It was in 1996 when things “really blew up”, as film director Spike Lee, a massive Yankees fan, wanted a red Yankees cap instead of a blue one. It had never been done before and, at that stage, the league would not let New Era make anything other than team colour caps. Joslin says, “So we talked to the league and said that Spike Lee wanted a red cap. We made him one and he wore it to a Yankees game, and then we got inundated with requests for different colours. So that’s when we really started to play with colour, and also hip-hop artists began to pick up on it. We’ve worked heavily with music collaborations, and we have several more planned for this year and next, as it always links in with street style. Also, sports influence fashion, and that’s what we try to play off as well. But it was the Spike Lee thing that was a real turning point in terms of what we could do.” New Era was established in 1920, originally making more traditional men’s caps such as
AUGUST 2015 | NEW ERA | PROFILE | 73
Gatsby and “baker boy” styles (a limited range of such products is currently available in the US and plans are to introduce those to the UK and European markets going forward). It still has offices in Buffalo, New York, where it started, and it’s still a family run business, now owned by fourth generation family member Chris Coch. It’s also the oldest still thriving manufacturer of the baseball cap, having started working with the MLB in the early 30s, making baseball caps for the players. Styles vary from snap-backs to fitted, such as the popular “39 Thirty” and “59 Fifty” models to more traditional buckle fastening backs, and different processes and fabrics keep the offer fresh and diverse enough to appeal to different people. Joslin says, “Every single player in the MLB now wears a New Era cap, and has done since 1993. That’s when we got the licence to supply all headwear to all teams. I guess we’re unique in that
respect. If you look at football in Europe, people would die to have the contract for every single team. It just wouldn’t happen. But in America we can do that because of the way the league is run. It’s pretty powerful and we can play off that.” One street trend that did take the New Era team somewhat by surprise is customers keeping the sticker on the peak of their New Era cap after purchase. “I think people do find it strange,” says Joslin. “But if you talk to a consumer it’s one of the most precious things they see on the product. People have loads of suggestions as to why the sticker is on there, but it was originally introduced as a size guide inside the cap. As soon as we put it on the front, it became an icon, another form of branding that we hadn’t anticipated. If you take that sticker off a core consumer’s cap, you’d better be quick, because they’re not going to be happy.” But they will indeed be happy with the brand new store, and the long awaited apparel line for sure.
AUGUST 2015 | BREAD & BUTTER | REVIEW | 74
BACK TO BERLIN With Bread & Butter a pale shadow of its former self, it was down to Seek and Premium to up their game and entice the buyers. Tom Bottomley went along to find some brands either not yet in the UK with limited distribution, or on the cusp of growing to a wider audience with independents being the focus. —
S/s 16 is only season number two for Sempach, and it’s very specific in design focus. There are only three jacket variants – available in three colours (army green, navy and natural) – for men and women, but they’re good. Taking inspiration from Swiss army equipment during WWI (the Swiss didn’t get involved in the conflict but apparently their army still had decent kit), this second line looks at details on their field tents. So jackets feature eyelets, drawstrings, zippers and webbing detail synonymous with those tents, produced in an exclusive lightweight rubberised cotton fabric. There’s a three-quarter length mac style, a shorter version and a hooded jacket, with internal features including a waterproof pocket. —
Considered the oldest Japanese denim brand (though Edwin may argue that one), and another first showing at Seek – previously showing at Capsule and Bread & Butter in Berlin, Big John currently only has one UK account, denim specialist Son of a Stag in Shoreditch. Although this is real purist stuff, there are some slimmer and more contemporary denim fits, too. But it’s very much jeans, as well as a couple of denim jackets and shirts. Specialisation is what it’s all about, and a great name, of course. It’s all made in Japan, using exclusive fabrics with specialist mills, giving Big John its big point of difference. The brand developed the first ever Japanese denim fabric with the Kurabo Mill in 1971, and a reproduction of it is available now. —
A Swedish brand only three seasons in for s/s 16, and a first showing at Seek, Freehistoric takes its design inspiration from the 50s and 60s, with emphasis on quality Japanese and Italian fabrics. Production is also done in Italy. There are motorcycle-style jackets in Italian linen with a water-repellent finish, vintage-look canvas vests, selvedge jeans and chinos, as well as some 50s-style loop-collared shirts made by an Italian tailoring family who have specialised in shirting for generations. A collaboration with a heritage hat-maker, CTH, from Sweden, using Freehistoric’s choice of fabrics, is a nice addition to the collection. —
Rivieras is now sold by The Butler Company, with the aim to open up distribution to the 20 UK independent accounts. And some of the latest styles and colourways for s/s 16 mean it should have no problem doing so. Essential summer staples are not that easy to come by on footwear, let’s face it. But Rivieras ticks all the right boxes – slip-ons with a touch of quirkiness that can be dressed up or down. Play it loud or play it subtle. There are micro-dot and digital prints, suede numbers, paint-splattered effects and regular plain weaves to keep it simple and chic. Rivieras was established in Paris just six years ago, but has the air – and look – of a brand that’s been on the feet of the St Tropez set since the 50s. —
AUGUST 2015 | BREAD & BUTTER | REVIEW | 75
Established in 2007, Bakuto 893 is time built on quality indigo yarns, production on vintage machinery and a love of solid product made the old way. Raw selvedge Italian denim, produced on old shuttle looms, has a great handle and look to it. The collection includes selvedge chambray shirting, an indigo canvas blazer and even some great café racer inspired printed T-shirts – again in great fabric. The brand produces its own fabrics, including a superb quality grey melange, starting from the yarns, which gives it even greater credence. The 50s-style crew-neck sweatshirt even comes boxed. Currently with no UK stockists, surely it’s only a matter of time before someone wakes up and gets this one in. —
Showing at Premium, as befits a premium product, this is very much a relaunch of a US brand based around, you guessed it, sailing (in fact it started out making technical sails for boats and ships back in 1958). It’s now under new private equity ownership, Oakley Capital Limited, led by former CEO of Scotch & Soda, Eric Bijlsma. Robert Polet, formerly CEO of the Gucci Group, is also an investor. For men, the collection for s/s 16 is broken down into four separate capsule lines – the top-end Black Label; Ocean Blue, which targets a slightly younger customer; Deep Blue – the most technical line; and Icons – non-seasonal signature branded staples. A UK distributor is currently being sought, with Fourmarketing mooted as a key contender. —
Established in 2007 in Stockholm, with sales handled in the UK by Egomark, Human Scales has just 10 current stockists on these shores, so plenty of room for growth. Starting out with raw denim jeans, the collection has evolved to be so much more. There are some great shirts, jackets, sweats, tees and unstructured blazers that are also commercial enough to appeal to UK indies looking to add something new in to their brand mix. Up to 80 per cent of the fabrics used in the line stem from Japan – the rest from Italy (including a mill most famous for its jacquard weaves) and Portugal – so there’s an emphasis on using quality. The patchwork Japanese fabric shirt is a stand-out piece for s/s 16. —
Established in Brooklyn, New York, in 1906, Smith’s is one of America’s oldest workwear brands. Born out of hard-wearing and well-constructed garments of cotton duck, hickory stripe twill and indigo denim, there’s enough of a story here – and enough decent pieces – to buy into. Michela Goldschmied, wife of “the godfather of denim”, Adriano, has designed a capsule womenswear range, too, carrying her signature. But you get more than a sneaky suspicion that the old master, and founder of Diesel, has been consulted on the men’s side as well. There are some great workwearinspired vests and jackets that, though not ground-breaking fashion, fit with what the brand should be all about. —
AUGUST 2015 | BLOGS | 76
DESTINATION MENSWEAR From discovering fledging brands unheard of in the UK, to being inspired by street-style photography from all four corners of the globe, blogs have fast become an essential part of the menswear industry. Victoria Jackson highlights six influential sites to bookmark this month. —
Dubbed “menswear’s girl next door”, Megan Collins created men’s fashion blog, Style Girlfriend, in 2009, designed to help guys who are not necessarily into fashion, but want to look good nonetheless. Style Girlfriend started life as a syndicated national newspaper column before making the transition from print to online, and has since grown to work with brands such as H&M, Visa, NFL and eBay. Covering lifestyle topics such as personal style, food, fitness, travel and home, the site offers men friendly advice from a female perspective – which, let’s face it, can be valuable at some point. “This evolution from style blog to lifestyle destination occurred because while I still love to boost a readers’ sartorial confidence by tackling questions about cufflinks and the perfect pant roll, I know there’s more out there that matters,” says Collins. “Because I want them to have it all – the swagger, the girl, the great meal and the adventure. All of it.” — Twitter: StyleGF Facebook: StyleGirlfriend
Well Spent is a gem of a website for those wanting to steer away from less-commercial runway pieces and just find simple, well-made wardrobe staples that don’t cost the earth. Featuring honestly crafted products, many of which are made on founder Brad Bennett’s home soil of America, the site focuses on brands that manufacture in non-sweatshop conditions, or that use sustainable materials. Bennett’s most recent post on the latest Mackintosh Earth Appin coat, meanwhile, features just the right amount of wit and sarcasm – “See, buying one of these UK-made, vented-back, ventile cotton coats would usually mean I couldn’t afford to feed him [his son] for (at least) a week afterwards; a sacrifice I’m willing to make for a jacket of this quality and beauty.” Definitely a blog to check out if you’re looking for an everyday man’s view of fashion. — Instagram: wllspnt Twitter: WLLSPNT Facebook: Well-Spent
AUGUST 2015 | BLOGS | 77
An online and bricks-and-mortar retail store based in Cleveland, US, Whiskey Grade has an eye for stylish pieces with a large dose of ruggedness. Established by the team that created Iron & Air magazine, Whiskey Grade not only offers some of the finest quality goods – including denims, leathers and even motorcycles – its extremely well-written Journal keeps readers coming back to do more than just browse and purchase. Typical posts include independent magazine reviews – such as this month’s delve into travel, arts and culture publication Collective Quarterly and showcasing look-books from American heritage brands such as Wolverine 1000 Miles and Patagonia. The site also delves deeper into the creation of Whiskey Grade’s own product line, which includes a stand-out Cone Selvedge denim workwear jacket. — Instagram: Whiskeygrade Twitter: Whiskeygrade Facebook: WhiskeyGrade
Even for those who haven’t yet stumbled across the GarconJon blog, it’s still highly doubtful that the name doesn’t get any bells ringing. Growing to become one of the most successful menswear blogs in the UK, GarconJon – the brainchild of London-based photographer Jonathan Daniel Pryce, specialising in fashion and street-style photography – is Pryce’s documentation of his own discovery of men’s fashion. In 2012, he won photographer of the year at the Scottish Fashion Awards, and is most famous for his “100 Beards, 100 Days” project. With a successful book under his belt, Pryce is one to watch on the street photography scene. In 2014, he launched a new project on British manufacturing – Manufacturing Menswear – which looked at the craft and skill behind menswear still produced on British soil. — Instagram: garconjon Twitter: garconjon Facebook: JonathanDanielPrycePhotography
APE TO GENTLEMAN
Blending street style with a distinct sense of humour, Four Pins is an entertaining read. Described as an “online magazine, focused on style, gear and culture”, it was founded in 2012 by bi-monthly magazine and online platform Complex. Grasping the need for video to engage with an audience as well as the written word early on, the site’s Honest Unboxing series gives, you guessed it, an honest review of a chosen product. Recent videos include the Apple Watch and Adidas Yeezy Boost 350 trainers. Tongue-in-cheek content runs throughout the site – if you look at nothing else on Four Pins, be sure to watch the video of comedian Samantha Bee and her view on men’s fashion week. With a focus on catwalk trends, street style, consumer must-haves and trade shows, Four Pins does what few womenswear blogs seldom do – cross successfully from pleasure to business, yet remain effortlessly entertaining. — Instagram: @Four_Pins Twitter: @Four_Pins Facebook: FOURPINS
Chris Beastall is the brains and style behind men’s grooming, fashion and lifestyle blog Ape to Gentleman, and has been in the blogging game since 2009. The UK-based writer covers everything from gym bag essentials through scents women love to smell on men to essential men’s cosmetics. Readers can even find articles on which products to use at a festival, top 10 acne myths and the ideal lip balms for men. When it comes to grooming and looking good, Beastall leaves no stone unturned – this is a man who knows his stuff when it comes to products, lotions and potions. He also runs a popular online shop called Niven & Joshua, and writes various advice columns on the trials and tribulations of which moisturiser to buy and which self-tanning products are suitable for male skin. Time to get on the metrosexual train directly to Ape to Gentleman. — Instagram: apetogentleman Twitter: apetogentleman Facebook: ApetoGentleman
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AUGUST 2015 | PETER MILLAR | PROFILE | 79
PETER MILLAR SETS SIGHTS ON THE UK Richemont-owned US brand Peter Millar has entered the UK lifestyle market with a new shop-in-shop in Harrods, and there are plans to grow the UK wholesale side with the right UK independents. Tom Bottomley gets the plan from managing director Brian Dillman. —
Originally established in 2001 in Raleigh, North Carolina, with a cashmere sweater as the first product, Peter Millar is a US brand that has grown into a full lifestyle collection – with strong links to the golf world. Indeed, it has a golfwear shop at St Andrews in Scotland, though it’s a different market to the menswear market it is seeking to grow in the UK and Europe. Bought by Richemont, the Swiss luxury goods company whose brands include Dunhill, Montblanc and IWC International Watch Co, in 2012, with the aim to take it to the “next level” internationally, a brand new shop-in-shop – which launched in Harrods in July – truly marks its arrival in the UK market. The golf line has been selling on Mr Porter for a few seasons, though the target is to also get the lifestyle line selling on there now, too. It’s a company that means business, and is looking to establish itself in the mix with the likes of Polo Ralph Lauren and Hackett with a full lifestyle collection. A new UK-focused website, www.petermillar.co.uk, also launches this November. Peter Millar MD Brian Dillman, who is currently making regular trips “across the pond,” sees a big opportunity here, believing there is a certain gap in the market waiting to be filled. And he has no doubt they have the capabilities. Says Dillman, “We started to do a lot of business in the US around three years ago with the likes of Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, and that’s when the lifestyle side started to overtake the golffocused side. It’s now about 60/40 lifestyle to golf.”
The founder of the company, Chris Knott, was a former Burberry salesman with a big background in tailored clothing in the US, including Hugo Boss. The name Peter Millar came from the name inscribed on an antique bowling ball his mother gave him – which also featured a crown logo that has been adopted and adapted for the Peter Millar brand. “He saw a void in the market for a great-quality product at a more reasonable price than what the luxury brands were selling,” says Dillman. “So he went out and found a great factory – one we are still using today – that made beautiful cashmere. “He sold it to a few friends he knew in the retail business, and it built from there,” he continues. “It went into the golf market, and that became a big part of it, only selling to the best in the business.” Knott retired earlier this year, but his legacy continues, and former Ermenegildo Zegna designer, Jason Cater, has joined the company to head up the company’s lifestyle offerings. His first collection is for s/s 16. Cater brings experience, passion and a unique creative vision developed through more than 17 years in the business, including the past eight years with leading Italian luxury brand Ermenegildo Zegna. Dillman says they consider the Peter Millar offer as “accessible luxury.” The most premium line is called Peter Millar Collection, which uses all European fabrics and styling. Wovens are made in Italy and footwear in Portugal, for instance. The main part of the offer is called
the Crown collection, using all European yarns but manufactured in Asia. Then there is the Performance line, which is where the golf side comes in. “One of the missions that Richemont saw for us was to do exactly what we were doing, but go to more markets,” says Dillman. “We really want to work with the best of the best, one at a time. We like the personal attention that we can give the customer. We’re not looking to have thousands of accounts. For example, in the US, we have around 400 speciality menswear retail accounts, in a world of more like 10,000. On the golf side, we have 1,500 accounts in a world of 9,000. So we really work with the top five or six per cent of where the market is.” UK-based Peter Millar sales director, Jenny Brown, who is based in St Andrews in Scotland but has a European travelling role and is in London regularly (Peter Millar has offices in Milton Keynes and is actively looking for a permanent London showroom), has a background in sports fashion – which includes working for Ralph Lauren and Lyle & Scott. She says, “Having travelled extensively to the US, I saw the success the brand had. I was drawn to the aspirational distribution and the positioning the brand had in Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus, starting from scratch. I think overall, though, it was the product that ultimately appealed. It is a well-designed, quality and commercial product.” From a name on an antique bowling ball, it seems Peter Millar is set to strike out.
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COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.
LITTLE BLACK BOOK BOSTON TEA PARTY 190 CORPORATION STREET, BIRMINGHAM, WEST MIDLANDS
SIMON SAYS “The customer is always right”. How many of us learnt that on day one of retail school? And how many of us have come so close to throttling a customer or slamming their fingers in the till? This aphorism came home to roost this week in one of my stores that shall remain nameless, as I wouldn’t want all of Crystal Palace to hear about it. Picture the scene – it’s a quiet Tuesday morning towards the end of the Sale. The manager’s on her own and a young man walks in, headphones on, unable to hear the “Good morning”. “Where are the Sale items?” he asks, somewhat brusquely. “They’re all around,” the manager replies. “Just look for the Sale signs.” The young man takes issue with this. It’s not the service level he’s expecting. Clearly, he expects to be taken round the store and shown where all the individual items are. Matters deteriorate. Rapidly. A heated exchange follows where he says the service is appalling and she tells him not to be so cheeky, the latter in a good humoured way to try to defuse the situation. She may as well have poured petrol onto a simmering barbecue and hoped the sausages wouldn’t burn. Around a minute later, I received his phone call. There were numerous references to him being a frequent shopper in the Boutiques of Bond Street and never experiencing this. I promised to look into it. Now I should explain that I select my store managers not just for their experience and abilities, but also for their personality. I want them to “own” the stores; to be characters whose individuality reflects my brand itself. This comes with risks and benefits. Mostly, Simon Carter customers love the fact that it’s not a Bond Street experience of identikit staff dressed in black with well-rehearsed trigger point sales patter. Occasionally, banter can be mistaken for offhand over-familiarity. But I’d rather run that risk, and have managers whose customers bring them cakes and coffees and call in for a chat because they’re real people. So, back to the incident in Crystal Palace. Magnanimously, my manager called the offended customer and apologised if her cheeky approach had offended him. He began to lecture her on retailing and declined her offer of a pair of my £18 Italian socks by means of an olive branch. Instead, he emailed me to say that he’d never grace me with his custom again. After 30 years in this business, I think it’s fair to say that I’ll still sleep tonight. We’ll muddle through without Mr Bond Street. So is the customer always right? No; plainly not. The decision is ours as retailers if we put up with it. But sometimes, you have to make a stand. And, on this occasion, I stood firmly by my staff. Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores.
Before opening in 2012, Boston Tea Party operated as a business in the South West, deciding to venture into Birmingham after spotting a gap in the market. Previously, the immediate area didn’t offer an independent multi-purpose food venue – and that’s exactly why the location was chosen. The city centre venue is on the bustling Corporation Street; however there is another location just outside Birmingham in the affluent suburb of Harborne. Using these two very different venues, the café is able to target a wide range of people. The city centre location (pictured) typically attracts young professionals from the hospitals, offices and law courts nearby with its breakfast, lunch and draft beer offering. The café’s checker-board floor and original windows have been maintained for a quirky appearance – an important character which no doubt helped it to claim The Sunday Times’ accolade as one of the top 25 places to eat brunch in the UK. —
I grew up in Kenya and everyone at school wanted to be a runner.
MUKESH DESAI owner M.D Agency, carrying Kennington, Howies and Vector watches
I was no different. Long distance running was a passion from early on, but my parents were big on education and wanted me to get a degree, which I did, in civil engineering. In England, I got a job on the Kings Road in a shop called Jeansville in the late 70s. We had all the best denim brands and the Kings Road was the place to be, so it got me hooked on this business. I got back into running in 1999 and still run three or four marathon a year around the world. If I had put my mind to it, it’s definitely a path I could have taken up full-time. Ultra running certainly keeps me fit, so it’s not a bad hobby to have. —
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CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL OLIVER O’DRISCOLL NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER FOR BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL One of my favourite summertime go-to pieces is my classic, lightweight Ralph Lauren Harrington jacket. I managed to find it on a vintage stall in Brick Lane and almost didn’t buy it, as jackets are the one thing I have enough of in my wardrobe. Thankfully, I did pick it up. It reminds me of the mid-90s when I was growing up. These jackets were everywhere, but I have never seen this colour and, like a lot of things, they don’t make them like they used to. — When the weather isn’t so kind, another choice would be my Barbour International x Triumph Carbon jacket from our s/s 16 collection. It is made using a technical material that looks incredibly like leather and wax, and is constructed using an indigo layer of fabric underneath the black top layer that will age beautifully with time like all my favourite fabrics. As a bit of stickler of the way things fit, this one hits the spot. — Sometimes the best pieces are the ones that just go with everything and remove the need to have to think about how it fits in. My plain white Carhartt tees do exactly that. Whatever the outfit they pretty much always look great with denim or chinos. — The next one on the list fits into the same category; my mustard Converse Chuck Taylor 1970s hi-tops. In its typical format it is hard to improve, but this version managed to do just that with the right number and types of subtle premium tweaks. In terms of footwear, it tends to be a toss-up between, my Adi Dassler x Adidas Consortium Superstars and my Dr Martens at the moment. — Lastly, denim has to get a mention, and my favourites are the discontinued “made in Japan” Uniqlo slim-fit selvedge jeans. I ended up buying three pairs of these as they fitted so well, and they have aged better than denim that cost way more. —
TOP TWEETS David Schneider @davidschneider A great Budget. As long as you’re over 25, own a house, have a well-paid job, live in the South East and aren’t ill or disabled #budget2015 The Sartorial Guide @sartorialguide Haters gonna hate. Sandals are in, and they’re reunited with an old chum, socks. One Young Gent @OneYoungGent Out of tonic, gin and 7Up is the same right? #g&tprobz Siobhan Norton @siobhan_norton1 Jedward were in my office today. And I was downstairs getting coffee and missed them. #gutted TheStyleGent™ @TheStyleGent Style and elegance is a gentlemanly quality; it takes constant determination and focus to achieve Sammy Aki @SammyAki My favourite period for tailoring (women included) 1930’s Simon Chilvers @simonchilvers I spent quite a worryingly long time this morning deciding whether it was 2015 or 2016. I blame fashion shows. Obvs The Everyday Man @Everyday_Man So the new James Bond #SPECTRE trailer looks pretty AWESOME Tim Nokes @timnokes Exclamation marks in an email. You know who you are.
SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.
p MENSWEAR LABEL FARAH JOINED FORCES WITH HIGHSNOBIETY AT CONTEMPORARY TRADE SHOW SEEK LAST MONTH TO THROW AN EXCLUSIVE POOLSIDE AFTER PARTY.
p THE BBC’S ESCAPE TO THE COUNTRY FILMED A LESSON IN TRADITIONAL GLOVE-MAKING DURING A RECENT VISIT TO ACCESSORY MANUFACTURER DENTS. THE CREW, INCLUDING PRESENTER JULES HUDSON, SPENT A FEW HOURS AT THE FACTORY AS THEY MET DENTS’ TEAM OF SKILLED TRADITIONAL CRAFTSMEN.
p LONDON TAXIS RECENTLY RECEIVED A MAKEOVER FROM HAVAIANAS TO MARK THE LAUNCH OF THE FLIP-FLOP BRAND’S SUMMER CAMPAIGN, #TAXITOSUMMER. CELEBRATING THE SUMMER SEASON, A FLEET OF ICONIC LONDON BLACK CABS WITH OVERSIZED FLIP-FLOPS ON THE ROOFS CRUISED AROUND LONDON’S LANDMARKS ON SUMMER SOLSTICE DAY.
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AUGUST 2015 | 83
THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.
FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
BBC’S ESCAPE TO THE COUNTRY GETS LESSON IN GLOVE MAKING The team of highly skilled traditional craftsmen and women at the Dents factory in Wiltshire had a visit recently from a BBC TV crew, filming the new series of Escape to the Country. Presenter Jules Hudson got a lesson in the glove-making process from leather cutting to hand sewing and finishing. A bit livelier than your average tea break in the factory that day, and definitely a nice little pick-me-up for the workers. Established in 1777, there surely can’t be any specialist glove-makers older in Britain, can there? What a history, too, as Hudson and the crew were also taken into the Dents private museum to view the collection of historic gloves and artefacts. “Lord Nelson’s gloves and the gloves of Queen Elizabeth 1st are always stand-out items here,” says Dents chief executive Deborah Moore. “But Jules also looked at the driving gloves we made for Jack Brabham and Stirling Moss, and the gloves used in Batman and for James Bond in Skyfall.” I had a pair of Dents driving gloves years ago, and they really were the finest things I’ve ever worn on my hands. So beautifully crafted that I had to take them off when I opened the bonnet for a bit of car love. I didn’t want to risk getting any oil over them, after all. Unfortunately, as is often the case when you have a pair of gloves that you really treasure, I lost one. Such is life, as they say, anyhow the Dents visit will be featured in an Escape to the Country programme to be screened later this year. Well worth a watch no doubt, and a decent five minutes of fame for the factory’s finest.
IN SEARCH OF SUMMER SHORTS I’m not planning a holiday abroad this summer, but I thought I might take a few days down in Cornwall when we get, or if we get, another blast of real summer weather. With that in mind, I went out the other day to purposely buy myself a couple of decent pairs of new shorts. The old white pegs have got to come out at some point and get their dose of Vitamin D after all. With the schools breaking up for the summer break, I thought there might be a fresh injection of holiday kit in some of the better stores, to cater for those dads who don’t go shopping for summer clobber until just before they head off to guaranteed sunny climes elsewhere. Well, that’s most British dads then... I did find some nice shorts but, in the last dregs of the Sale, they only ever seemed to have left the
p ESCAPE TO THE COUNTRY’S JULES HUDSON AND THE CRAFTSMEN AND WOMEN OF DENTS t US LABEL UPSTATE STOCK MAKES ITS UK DEBUT
size of waist I had as a 13-year-old (size 28) or the size of waist I hope I never get to (38). Disgruntled, I asked the sales assistant if any more new styles of shorts may be coming in soon – this being real summer now (well it was mid-July) after all. He looked at me as if I’d just asked where the nearest lunatic asylum was. “But we do have our new a/w 15 lines hitting the shop floor next week,” he said with an air of grandness. As his lip curled and his eyes rolled, he added, “You may want to try TK Maxx.” Good sales ploy, I thought – send someone very willing to splash a bit of cash in your store down to the discount brand wonderland up the road. Well, I did, and he was right.
GET READY FOR THE WOOLLIES On that note, I thought I may as well start talking about a/w 15 product, though I won’t be pulling out the woollies just yet. New York label Upstate Stock, which specialises in some very nice US-made beanies, gloves and mittens, is now sold in the UK through Terry Pearman (one time Pepe UK MD, and sales director of Firetrap for many years before that) and his Neat Distribution company. The likes of American
Classics, Liquor Store, Union, Kafka and Son of a Stag have picked up on it. Pearman has a knack of picking up decent accessories these days, with Goorin Bros hats – also from the US – the first one to turn his head, so to speak. Anyway, Upstate Stock has a nice ring to it, and the product is very well made, with the wool gloves coming with quality leather fronts so you can drive in them as well. Pearman will be carrying stock for autumn, too, and it could be a winner. He says, “The guys behind it are really passionate about the product, and that’s important. I am trying to build an accessories business, as I think there is a greater chance of penetrating the market specialising on a few products rather than many categories.” Personally, I instantly liked the product when I saw it at one of the Copenhagen shows last time around, so it was a coincidence when Terry called me to say he’d picked it up. With the growing interest in US-made products, as indeed there is with UK made products, this has a nice point of difference. There isn’t much to it in terms of product offer, so buying it is uncomplicated, and that’s the way Pearman likes things these days. Up the quality and keep it simple is his new motto.
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LAST ORDERS WITH... STEFAN MAUREL Stefan Maurel, CEO of online men’s fashion search platform StylePilot, speaks to MWB’s Victoria Jackson about the future of e-tail, the key s/s 16 trends to emerge on his travels from London to Paris, and which British brands have caught his French eye. — DOB: 10 May 1972 Born: Paris Lives Now: London Twitter: @Style_Stefan Website: www.stylepilot.com Can you explain the concept behind StylePilot? How many members of the team are there now? StylePilot is an online men’s fashion search platform based in London, designed to inspire, inform and advise. Alongside content (trend analysis, style tips, reviews and news etc), we have thousands of brands to shop from. We’re a small team of five, including two people on the content and social-media side, and we also work with an army of talented freelancers and writers in the fashion industry. In terms of my own career history, I’ve always been attracted by the fashion industry, so I’ve been quite lucky to enter it being 40-plus. I guess that living in Paris has always had a big impact on me. Fashion is a super-exciting and fastmoving industry, crowded with smart individuals. Why do you think personalised shopping hubs like StylePilot have become so popular? I think that men – but also women buying for them – are looking for inspiration, and sometimes help. But searching the web can be a bit overwhelming – there are so many options out there but not a lot of advice on how to put a whole outfit together. So we are trying to make it simple, by allowing you not only to refine your search by budget, brands, colours, fabric, but also by style and formality. Also, alongside this search engine we’ve developed an in-house Style DNA Tool, which provides automated classification and personalised recommendation based on individual “biotype” – height, body shape, skin and hair colour, budget, preferred brands and style. I think the fashion industry is shifting towards being increasingly personalised, with bespoke platforms becoming popular because they are responding to the demands of the consumer.
expand our offering on the platform such as the grooming products and gifts for men. What trends do you predict to be key on the high street for s/s 16? The high street will see an influx of prints for s/s 16, from large florals through animal prints to strong stripes – which will feature on everything from shirts to suits. Trousers are becoming increasingly directional with wide-leg trousers one of the top trends. Sports luxe is a perma trend, and is great worn with clashing colours and light layers in the warmer months. Monochrome is an all-year-round classic, which looks sharp, crisp and clean. Finally, if you’re serious about fashion and embracing the new season, my top tip would be the jumpsuit. You’ll need confidence to pull it off, but it can be the coolest look of the season.
Do you currently work with independent retailers? We work with a couple, but we’d love to have more. My aim is that StylePilot will become a place for your favourite brands, and also a place for discovery. It’s obviously great to have high-street retailers in one place, but it’s also really important to have independent retailers. It’s always good to mix, and we would be proud to help promote independent, new and niche designers.
In terms of your own personal style, which labels can be seen hanging in your closet? I have built my closet more around essentials such as a couple of nice jackets (tweed and velvet), quite a few pairs of shoes, as well as many shirts and jumpers. But since you asked about brands, let me do some name-dropping – Joseph (coat and knitwear), Grenson and John Lobb (shoes), Mr Start (shirts and suits), Lacoste (polo shirts), Burton (jeans), and M&S and TM Lewin for shirts, to name a few.
You’ve certainly created a menswear destination on the site, what’s next for you and the team? The next step is to expand to other countries in coming years. Meanwhile, we are very keen to
Which British labels stand out to you as a French man? Private White VC, Grenson and Harris Tweed fabrics (so quite a few).
QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Early bird or night owl? Definitely night owl. Night buses are still my friends. Sad, isn’t it? — Favourite film? Moulin Rouge because Baz Luhrmann has created a chef d’oeuvre (masterpiece). — Perfect Sunday? A National Trust visit – on a crisp winter day – with my wife, kids and friends, and a mandatory stop for a cup of tea and scones. — What would you tell your 16-year-old self? Embrace life and have fun. Take lots of photos and print them, or create photo books.
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