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R E T A I L 10

Online Insider Advice, news and issues online


Retail Insider The latest in-store news

G E N T 18

Product news




Walk this way


The final call

Rounding up the key stories this month Check mate The key trends, news and developments for the gent footwear sector A/w 14 accessories round-up


Food for the sole


The Borders’ brother brands are back


It’s a man’s world

MWB’s seasonal footwear shoot Profiling knitwear label Peter Scott Trends to emerge from Moda Gent





Product news




Pointing East


Reaching gridlock


Best foot forward


All in the detail


Boneville back to show Osti still rules


Setting the Bench mark


Bestsellers list

Rounding up the key stories this month Flower bomb Jacket Required highlights Exclusive editorial from Jacket Required What the contemporary and urban footwear sector has to offer Perfect point-of-sale add-ons and extras The return of the 80s classic The latest direction of Manchester brand Bench Tom Bottomley picks the bestsellers from Moda Select

R E G U L A R S 5 6 14

Comment News Interview

64 67 70

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Timo Schmidt-Eisenhart

Hommy Diaz

Front cover

Icon Brand 020 3137 7217 —




Victoria Jackson — DEPuT Y


Tom Bottomley — CONTRIBuTORS Isabella Griffiths Laura Turner Christina Williams — SuB


Amanda Batley — DESIGNERS Michael Podger James Lindley Clive Holloway Richard Boyle — SALES


Sharon Le Goff — SuB SCRIPTIONS Laura Martindale — HEAD



Jamie Harden — PRODuCTION


Gill Brabham — PORTFOLIO


Nick Cook — MARkETING


Stephanie Parker — MANAGING


Colette Tebbutt —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2014 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint Ltd 01482 652323 —

Despite various industry bodies highlighting the growth that the UK economy is experiencing, it’s clear to see from the recent demise of the likes of Base and Duffer Menswear that there is still a long way to go to get the country’s retail industry back on its feet. — I recently came across an initiative from charity Carnegie UK Trust called TestTown, a concept launched nationwide earlier this month designed to help rejuvenate our flagging high street by allowing young people the opportunity to bring new businesses to life. Over the past few years there have been many attempts to bring our high street back to life and, as 50,000 units remain empty across the country, these attempts need to continue regardless of their success or failure. Dubbed a “part pop-up festival, part skills course and part innovation competition”, TestTown is calling on young entrepreneurs in cities including Manchester, Perth and Rhyl to put their business ideas forward, with each regional winner awarded £500 to trial their plans in unused high-street units. Youth unemployment is chronic and, if there is a chance to support their business-savvy spirit, as well as helping rejeuvinate the high street, then it gets my backing. And although there are other issues for independent retailers to contend with such as rents, rates, high minimums and the tighter squeeze on household incomes, a continued lack of footfall is still a major concern for most. While huge shopping destinations including Westfield and Trinity Leeds bring shoppers flocking, it is much harder for smaller towns and cities including Rhyl and Perth to drum up interest, and TestTown might just be the remedy. Read more on the TestTown initiative on p8. This issue of MWB brings our seasonal footwear and accessories special, highlighting some of the key trends in our shoot on p26, while the team at Jacket Required brings you an exclusive editorial shot on site at the Old Truman Brewery on p44. Finally, a reminder to catch our May edition, which is our essential guide to e-commerce, covering everything from web design and logistics to those three letters that can puzzle many a beginner, SEO. Have a great month and, as always, contact the team with any comments or thoughts via email or tweet @mwbmagazine. Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.




T HE HU B MOVES DOW N TOW N A FT ER STRON G SECOND SHOW Hong Kong trade show The HUB, whose second edition took place at Asia World Expo on 25-27 February, will move to a new central location for its next edition as part of ongoing plans to further develop the event as the region’s leading showcase for branded and designer fashion. The next edition of the show, which will run over two days on 27-28 August, will be held at D2 Place, kowloon, a mixed-use business, retail and exhibition space development in the heart of Hong kong’s traditional apparel district. According to show founder Richard Hobbs, the move will pave the way for the future growth and answer calls from exhibitors and visitors for a more central location. “Asia World Expo was a great venue for the launch of the show but, as we continue to develop, we wanted to be closer to Hong kong’s fashion and retail scene and make the show even more accessible for our visitors,” he says. “The new venue is much more in tune with the non-traditional spaces used by the leading European shows, and in line with the way our exhibitors like to see their collections presented.” Last month’s event played host to brands including Barbour, Peter Werth, Gabicci, Gloverall, Gola and Penrose London, with buyers and distributors visiting the show from Hong kong, China, korea, Japan and across the South East Asia Region. While monobrand stores remain a key method of entry into the Chinese and Asian markets, The HuB has also become part of a broader initiative to promote the development of multi-brand retail in the region, with the event including a specially designed retail showcase in which exhibitor product was showcased in a multi-brand retail setting. Anthony Thorne of British outerwear label Hancock, which took part in The HuB for the first time, says the event had exceeded his expectations. “Hancock is having great success in Japan, so we thought we should show in Hong kong to test the water for other parts of Asia,” he says. “We came away with a good order from one of the top stores in Hong kong, and are now having conversations with companies interested in distributing the brand in korea and China.” Buyers were similarly impressed with the concept of The HuB, and in particular with its mix of international brands and handpicked Asian designers. Among those attending the show was kenneth Li, managing group president of Chinese retail group Waitex, which both operates standalone stores for major European names and runs its own multi-brand retail concept. “The HuB is a great place to see up-and-coming brands and meet the talent that will drive the Asian market for the next 20 years,” he says. “The future of multi-brand retail in China starts at shows like this.” —

Orlebar Brown, the British luxury label that began life as a tailored swim short brand, has appointed former Joseph CEO Sara Ferrero as chairwoman. “I’m excited to join Adam and the team at Orlebar Brown,” says Ferrero. “By pioneering the luxury resort lifestyle market and exporting it worldwide, Orlebar Brown has achieved so much in its short history. I’m looking forward to helping the brand build on its remarkable success.” Adam Brown, co-founder of Orlebar Brown, adds, “We are delighted to welcome Sara as chairwoman. She is widely respected in the fashion industry and has an enviable track record in growing luxury designer brands. Her experience and insight will be invaluable as Orlebar Brown enters its next stage of development.” —

ANIMAL OPEN S LONDON SHOWROOM Surf and sportswear brand Animal has opened a brand new showroom in London, signifying a step forward for the label. Opened earlier this year, the 2,825 sq ft space is located in Metropolitan Whaft, Wapping Wall, and currently showcases menswear, womenswear, kidswear and accessories for a/w 14. The brand is hoping to support existing wholesale accounts and attract new customers to aid its sales growth in the uk market. Housed within a listed heritage warehouse, the showroom offers original wood beams, large factory windows and exposed brickwork. The overall style gives a light and natural background, accessorised with surf and skate icons from Animal’s lifestyle and heritage. The label also has plans to open a second showroom in Manchester to cater for the North of the country. —





Berlin trade show Bread & Butter has cancelled its plans to introduce a consumer element to its summer edition, following strong opposition from the industry to the proposed plans. In a brief statement, karl-Heinz Müller, Bread & Butter’s managing director, said the idea to create an “interactive festival” that involved the end consumer “seemed natural in theory”, but that due to the evident “intensive, logistic and organisational challenges” involved and the controversy surrounding the plans, Bread & Butter would remain a platform for trade only. “It remains our aim to offer our exhibitors and the specialist retailers an ideal, contemporary platform for communication and business,” says Müller. “Therefore, we meet the wish of the majority of our exhibiting brands and the specialist retail; Bread & Butter remains a trade show for industry professionals only.” —

Damon Hill, previously of Paul Smith, Timberland and Ben Sherman, has joined leather label Barney & Taylor as the brand’s new global sales manager. Hill joins the family run business as it relaunches into autumn/winter 2014 with a new brand identity and expanded collection. His most recent position was held at Fossil uk, where he spent six years helping the label drive its presence forward. “I’m incredibly excited about becoming part of the Barney & Taylor journey,” says Hill. “We are just starting out, so it gives me the opportunity to be part of the new brand identity from conception. I’ve been able to get involved in the design and production stages, using my experience from what works well in both domestic and international markets, and applying it in a premium way.” —

NATWEST UK FASHION & TEXTILE AWARDS UNVEILS FIRST PUBLIC VOTE AWARD For the first year since launching, the UK Fashion & Textile Awards are allowing the public to vote for the year’s most exciting designer collaboration in partnership with style website MyDaily. The shortlist for the new MyDaily UKFT Designer Collaboration Award includes Eudon Choi for River Island, Isabel Marant for H&M, Liberty x Nike, Oscar De La Renta for The Outnet and Meadham Kirchoff for Topshop. MyDaily is the official media partner for the event, and its readers can vote for their favourite designer collaboration at until the end of March. Hosted on the 22 May 2014 at East London’s Tobacco Dock, some of Britain’s key designers, brands and retailers will battle it out for the coveted awards across a range of categories including The NatWest UKFT Outstanding Achievement Award, UKFT Rise Award for emerging talent and the newly launched MyDaily UKFT Designer Collaboration Award. — LEE COOPER EXPANDS INTO SOUTH AMERICA Denim brand Lee Cooper has expanded into South America by debuting in the Columbian market for a/w 14, after signing a deal with partner Schontal CI Limitada. Schontal has extensive experience in manufacturing denim textile products and leisure footwear, as well as a history trading in its own-brand shoes in Colombia. The group will manufacture Lee Cooper clothing and footwear for men and women, with a view to offer further brand extensions once it has become established in the market. Schontal’s business strategy for Lee Cooper will focus primarily on a wholesale model, with retail plans also afoot in the form of a Colombian flagship store towards the end of 2014. —


CA R N EGIE U K T RU ST PL A N S TO REVIVE TOWN CENTRES, the flash sales website spanning fashion and homeware, has revealed a 69 per cent increase on its year-on-year figures for 2013. The website now has three million registered members and, in December, shipped its one-millionth order. “We’ve continued to post record results, and these figures show that as well as attracting new members, our existing customers are buying more than ever,” says co-founder Sach kukadia. “This is due to our dedication to offering amazing brands at strong discounts and ensuring our customers’ experience is straightforward and enjoyable. We are committed to rolling out key development, product and marketing initiatives to ensure we continue to grow throughout 2014. We have an exciting development launching in spring that will encourage growth, so watch this space.” —

uk charity Carnegie uk Trust has launched a nationwide initiative, TestTown, to offer young people the opportunity to bring a new business to life and to help revitalise the uk’s flagging high street. The initiative aims to fill the void left by the 50,000 vacant shops, according to the Local Data Company, in Britain’s town centres by attracting young entrepreneurs between the ages of 16 and 30 years old to open their own retail businesses. The concept, which has been in development for over two years, is part pop-up festival, part skills course and part innovation competition. The charity is calling on young entrepreneurs in Manchester, Middlesbrough, Rhyl, kirkintilloch, Bury St Edmunds, Perth and Coleraine to apply to be part of the TestTown scheme this summer. Each regional winner will be given £500 in start-up funds to trial their ideas. —

BERWIN & BERWIN SIGNS NEW PRODUCTION DEAL Suit supplier Berwin & Berwin has signed a deal with Vietnamese textiles business VITC, allowing the company to increase its production by over 20 per cent. VITC will provide a new supply arm to Berwin & Berwin, which produces suits in Hungary and China and has offices in Leeds, London and Munich. “This is a wonderful opportunity to supply tailoring from another country and offer great value and quality to our customers,” says Simon Berwin, managing director. “There have been suit producers in Vietnam for some time, but this will be the first vertical operation and the first aimed at the medium to better end the retailers.” Berwin & Berwin currently supplies to markets including Canada, Germany and Russia. —





In celebration of its 120th anniversary, British heritage brand Barbour is asking customers to share their Barbour stories via Twitter, Instagram and specially made microsite www.thestory.barbour. A Barbour Originals classic wax jacket will be awarded to those who submit the best entries every week until the end of June. “Customers are always getting in touch to share their Barbour-related stories and pictures, whether it be the chunky jumper that kept someone warm on a 12-hour ramble in the countryside or the jacket that doubled up as a picnic blanket at a festival,” says Rebecca Cairney, global digital marketing manager. “Our 120th anniversary is the perfect time to celebrate and share these stories, and our microsite will be a community where people can do this while also being able to find out more about the many stories in our heritage that make Barbour what it is today.” —

Off The Rails, a consumer event for the menswear industry, is launching this October at the Old Truman Brewery. The show is the brainchild of Charlie Gardiner of Incipio Events, who will work alongside consultants including Caroline Reader, former head of events at The British Fashion Council; Nick Ede, creative director of EdenCancan; katie Bain, former show manager at The British Fashion Council; and operations expert Helena Shelley. The four-day fair will provide a shopping platform for men, and offer grooming and styling advice, with over 70 brands set to exhibit. Other areas of the event include on-site tailoring, a barber shop, fully licensed bar, lounge areas and street food pop-ups. Off The Rails aims to attract an audience of 7,000 guests in October and will run as a seasonal show each spring and autumn going forward. —

SELFRIDGES COLLABORATES WITH YR STORE YR Store, the world’s first live allover print specialist, has joined forces with Selfridges for the retailer’s Board Games project – a celebration of skate and surf from a high-fashion perspective. YR Store’s specially developed software and high-specification digital printing process enables customers to design their own garments in-store. Created exclusively for Selfridges, the label’s Board Games design assets will include a palette of summer and beachinspired graphics, allowing each user to design a personalised version of a Hawaiian print or use retro surf and skate inspired typography to create their own statement pieces. “It’s exciting for us to launch into Selfridges less than a year after the YR brand was created,” says Tim Williams, creative director. “YR believes that the future of fashion is in bespoke garment creation, and we are looking forward to offering Selfridges customers the opportunity to curate their own prints and patterns in store, across our exciting new garment range.” — LAUNCHES NEW FOOTLET PANTHERELLA SOCK MODEL British sock label Pantherella has introduced the new Footlet sock into its s/s 14 stock collection. Hidden under seasonal boat shoes and moccasins, the sock boasts a breathable instep, non-slip heel grip and an anti-bacterial treatment to keep feet comfortable in the warmer months. Available in four colour options – black, navy, dark grey and light khaki – the Footlet is available to buy wholesale now. —



Premium menswear label 1 Like No Other has entered the accessories sector with the launch of two exclusive sets of silver cufflinks in collaboration with British jewellery designer katie Mullally. Each design is based on the brand’s signature floral print, with the solid silver style available from £72 wholesale and a gold-plated pair wholesaling at £84. “The two brands share an obvious synergy, as we both produce products which are individually numbered, in limited editions,” says karen Ames, international and uk sales director, 1 Like No Other. Mullally adds, “My passion for silver and hallmarking began while working at my grandmother’s antique business, and all my products are Britishmade. I am thrilled to be working with 1 Like No Other on such an exciting project.” —

Real Stars Are Rare, a collaboration between music icon Paul Weller and Phil Bickley, owner of London menswear store Tonic, has launched successfully into the menswear wholesale market. Distributed by Index London, the label features tailoring, knitwear, shirts and accessories – all featuring the signature DNA of Weller’s MOD style. Materials such as merino wool and mohair are blended with a colour palette comprising purple, indigo, plum and blue, alongside chocolate tones and cool greys. “Clothes and music for me go hand-in-hand; they’ve helped shape who I am,” says Weller. “Creativity doesn’t always have an intellectual side – often it just feels right. When we considered colours, I often found myself thinking it just works. We’ve got big ideas and plans. The a/w launch line is just the beginning.” —

BEAR GRYLLS OPENS NEW REGATTA GROUP DISTRIBUTION CENTRE Adventurer and TV personality Bear Grylls opened the brand new distribution centre for outdoor clothing specialist Regatta Group earlier this month. The group, which owns four key clothing and footwear brands – Regatta, Craghoppers, Dare2b and Hawkshead – took over the entire 640,000 sq ft distribution centre in Ellesmere Port last year. Bear Grylls, who has an official clothing line with Craghoppers, attended the reception at Pioneer Point and met the 400-strong logistics team which distributes over 100,000 units per day to over 55 countries. Pioneer Point houses one of the highest manually picked racking units in Europe, standing an impressive 15.6 metres in the air. “Opening a distribution centre was a brand new adventure for me, and I have been looking forward to meeting with all the teams that keep the wheels in motion,” says Grylls. “I have worked with Regatta Group for seven years and I never cease to be impressed by their ambition and entrepreneurialism.” —


ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.


CHRIS FIELD is the MD of Fieldworks Marketing and can be contacted via

You are probably as fed up as I am with people trying to tell you what the store of the future will look like. Firstly, they talk about the future while I’m more concerned about what is happening right now. Secondly, these days, the future keeps arriving, so some unlocated country some years off is probably not a destination I have any faith in. Thirdly, who are these people who know so much about the way the store is changing that they have exclusive rights? Like them, I have my own opinions, which I am always happy to share, but I hope that I recognise the limitations of fulminating on a subject that takes no account of what the customer, who now operates seamlessly online as well as in-store, wants. At NRF in New York in January, it became clear that what Millennials want from online and the store is quite different from what older males like me want. Sure, you can make some generalisations – for instance, a store should not be a warehouse – but as retailers seek to get closer to their customers to understand them better and pre-empt their needs, generalisations won’t do. Millennials will put up with a lot less than the rest of us online and in-store, so lazy assumptions about service have got to change. The huge growth that many retailers got from trading online early or offering click and collect, is not sustainable. What then? This is where speaking to analysts, IT vendors and other pundits will have limited benefit. Asking the customer, one by one perhaps not, but eventually is the only direction to take in order to determine what they want from a store. Obviously, we want to avoid creating a giant focus group that forces the retailer to react to every crazy request, and let’s be honest, social media feedback can certainly do that to you, but the direction is right. Retailers must think about stores much more in terms of customer feedback and be able to build enough flexibility into the store’s layout, service and crosschannel connection to keep it relevant. That’s a tall order, and anyone who says otherwise is living in the future. As with everything that requires a change of mind before a change of action, this will all take time, and all of us travellers on the journey need to access a wide range of data and opinion in order to determine how we should act. But remember, five minutes with real consumers is worth two days stuck in a conference room listening to people agree with other. —


WWW.qUESTION-AIR.COM Launching with a new-and-improved look, London independent Question Air has unveiled its online retail arm just in time for spring/summer 2014. Going live earlier last month, the new website features model images, enhanced styling advice and video content. Offering brands including Hartford, Nudie, Ami, Mr Black and Triwa, the website also includes dedicated gift idea pages for both male and female shoppers. —


VOLCOM UNVEILS NEW EUROPEAN E-COMMERCE SITE Footwear label Volcom has launched its first e-commerce site – – for the European market, presenting over 1,000 products online. As well as offering free ground shipping and returns, the site also allows customers to chat live to customer service representatives. The international strategy has created synergies by combining a single brand image with a highly localised site, available in English, French, German and Spanish, with differing payment and delivery methods in different countries. — SHAREIGHT LOOKS TO RAISE FUNDING FOR ANDROID APP AND IMPROVE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE Shareight, the creator of a social mobile shopping app of the same name that searches for items from multiple retailers and displays the top eight results for comparison and purchases, is looking to raise £325,000 to develop an Android app and improve checkout experience. With partners including Superdry, John Lewis, Clarks, Topman and New Look, the app has made a significant impact in the mobile commerce sector. Shareight enables users to reach the top 500 retail search terms in just three clicks and to save items from the entire high street in a wish-list collection that appears on the mobile screen. Brands and stores can display their favourite picks, as well as using the platform as a virtual high-street store window. “There’s tremendous interest in our technology among investors and consumers alike, which makes it an ideal time to raise funding,” says Grant Slatter, co-founder of Shareight. “Mobile commerce is taking off in the UK and more consumers want to make purchases on their mobile phone. We offer an easy way for users to browse different products from a range of brands by offering eight suggested retail options. We also give people the opportunity to talk to each other about products, especially gifts.” —


RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

vIEWPOINT TONY SYMONS is the proprietor of Roger’s Menswear in Herne Bay, Kent, and a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

WOODHOU SE CLOTHING CELEBR AT ES BA R BER SHOP L AUN CH Notting Hill independent menswear retailer Woodhouse Clothing welcomed customers, press and bloggers to its store last month to celebrate the launch of New Balance’s Barber Shop pack. The premium indie is also home to Carter & Bond barber shop, making it the ideal setting for the official release of the footwear brand’s latest collection. The New Balance team was on hand in-store to explain the design ethos behind the new drop, which comprises three key styles in blue, white and red, taking inspiration from the classic barber shop interior. Opening its doors at 6.30pm on Thursday 20 February, Woodhouse Clothing served drinks and canapés to guests including celebrity photographer Richard Young, London rapper Shadez The Misfit and the MWB team. Carter & Bond, meanwhile, was on hand to offer a range of grooming services downstairs, including a hot towel shave, of which a number of guests took advantage. —

IN BRIEF SOUNDOUT RETAIL LAUNCHES TO HELP FORECAST BESTSELLERS SoundOut, the research and audience insight tool for the music industry, has launched SoundOut Retail – a specialist tool for fashion brands and retailers to help calculate bestselling products to aid budget allocation. By tapping into the best and most relevant consumer reviews, brands and retailers are able to test new ranges, items and trends as quickly as overnight. With the ability to run both domestic and international reviews, as well as gaining detailed insight preference for size, colour and price, retailers can reduce stock-outs and markdowns while improving sell-through and margins to meet sales targets. —

BASE MENSWEAR ENTERS ADMINISTRATION Base Menswear, the multiple independent owned by Base Retail, has entered administration following its fight with the struggling mid-market menswear trade. Restructuring firm Portland has been appointed as administrator and, while Base Menswear has closed four of its locations, Base Childrenswear will continue in business. The store’s five remaining locations – Basildon, Bluewater, Romford, Stratford and White City – are still currently trading. —

February and March are always busy for us with buying, but I find the process so much less of a minefield from the security of a buying group such as the The IMC. We had our a/w show at Whittlebury Hall in Northamptonshire, recently, and I always love attending and meeting up with fellow retailers. As a collective, the risks are so much lower, and the supportive environment in which the decision making takes place makes an enormous difference at the end of the day. I’ve always been a great believer in mutual support in retail, and feel that preserving the high street is of paramount importance. I took over Roger’s Menswear in 1999, and have seen plenty of changes since the business began in the late 60s. The industry is virtually unrecognisable from the menswear boutiques and tailors of the 70s – today’s consumers are shopping in a very different way. A point of discussion at buyers’ meetings is how we need to adapt and evolve to meet the customer’s needs. Last year was a tough one for our formalwear department – many of us put it down to superstition in planning events. We are hoping that 2014 will rise to the challenge and our casualwear and accessories will continue to draw our loyal customers in and encourage them to spread the word. Factors such as feeling relaxed and trusting the retailer are important to our customers as is providing a one-stop shop for the male species, who are notorious for their aversion to “shopping” as a past-time. I find that word of mouth has made a big difference to us in terms of our customer relations and in our business relations, too. It was our agent from Gurteen who suggested we join The IMC to benefit from discounts on our orders, and it was HSBC who advised us to join BIRA, and FAB to take advantage of the preferential card processing rates. I am a great believer in communities and thus far have found that reputation and communication aid our business enormously.


SHOPPED: POCKETS What are your feelings so far on sales this season? We’re feeling optimistic about spring/summer, and have had a great response so far with all our collections hitting the ground running. We’re also looking forward to a busy wedding season, after seeing a little dip last summer, and have invested heavily in tailoring from Canali, Paul Smith, Burberry and Hugo Boss. I hope we’re proven right. There seems to be more optimism on the shop floor. — What brands are performing strongly for you? The “stand outs” so far are Moncler and Stone Island, MARK TAYLOR, BUYER, POCKETS, and Ralph Lauren is ticking all the right boxes. We’ve SHREWSBURY, also had a good response to Tods, which is a new NEWCASTLE UNDER LYME, HANLEY, addition this season. It’s difficult restocking from our WORCESTER AND brands, as they have a limited stock programme – NANTWICH which is both a help and a hindrance. We've educated our customers on the fact that they need to get in early as, “Once it’s gone, it’s gone.” It helps to drive early sales, and also keeps the brands at a premium.  — How has your buying gone for a/w 14, and are you looking to change anything? We’ve just finished our autumn/winter buying, and we’ve been very happy with all the collections so there aren’t any brand changes, apart from introducing Ralph Lauren tailoring, which we’re pretty excited about. We’re investing heavier into our core brands and trying to offer a more sophisticated premium grown-up look, with soft tailoring and lots of layering from the likes of Paul Smith and Hugo Boss. Burberry has done some amazing velvet jackets. —



LEEDS WELCOMES NICHOL AS DEAKINS FL AGSHIP OPENING British menswear label Nicholas Deakins has opened its latest store in Leeds, the birthplace of the “lads” brand. Located on the city’s busy Boar Lane, the shop is opposite the entrance to Trinity Leeds, maximising footfall potential. Featuring a wall of grey split mosaic tiles and reclaimed wooden shelving, the new store complements this colourway with apparel carried on matching bespoke wooden wall fixtures. Other key interior highlights include wooden window beds, sanded back and stained as well as a classic vintage cutting block. The industrial ceiling, meanwhile, has been left bare, whilst a natural slate black floor gives a modern twist. —


Chiltern Street in London’s Marylebone is mooted as a menswear destination these days, and Trunk Clothiers – now with an additional footwear and accessories shop at number 34 called Trunk LABS, which opened last summer – has played a big part. The shop’s core customer is aged 35-55 and is generally pretty affluent by all accounts. Many apparently own their own businesses or are in senior executive positions in global companies. “They value provenance and quality as well as timeless and effortless design,” says CEO and managing director, Mats klingberg. The new Chiltern Firehouse hotel will also no doubt add to their growing customer base. Whatever the game plan, it seems to be working, with a well edited mix of smart and casual clothes in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The brand mix, too, is out of the ordinary – a surefire uSP if ever there was one. Among the shop’s bestselling brands are Boglioli, Incotex, Barena and Salvatore Piccolo. Monocle voyage also launched its first menswear collection at Trunk in February, which makes sense as Monocle is a sister company these days. —

SUPERGA OPENS THIRD UK STANDALONE STORE Footwear label Superga has opened its third standalone store in the UK at London’s Camden Lock. Located on Chalk Farm Road, the shop features scaffolding shelving units, giving the space a more industrial finish in line with Camden Lock’s aesthetics. Splashes of red and blue add colour to an all-white canvas. The store launches with the new s/s 14 collection including the new additions of the animal print range. —



TIMO SCHMIDT-EISENHART The president of Timberland EMEA lead the integration of the brand into the vast VF portfolio in 2012, eyeing the label’s 40th anniversary in 2013 as a key time to build on brand awareness and product lines – with particular emphasis on growing the men’s casual footwear business and developing men’s apparel. This year sees that push grow in momentum, as Tom Bottomley discovers. Tom Bottomley: You joined Timberland in 2012 – how is your position different to previous roles at The North Face and Nike? Timo Schmidt-Eisenhart: The main difference is the integrator role as Timberland president after the vF acquisition of the brand. This was the biggest acquisition for vF, and we moved our offices from the uk to Stabio in Switzerland, relocating many professionals while hiring new talent from different companies with international backgrounds. It was a challenge, but it seems to have worked well. — TB: Have you managed to build the men’s casual footwear business to increase market share? TSE: We are in constant progress. Each year we increase our market share thanks to a sustainable growth in our footwear business. Our sell-through is healthy, and our plan is to keep on building a strong casual footwear foundation so we can become a stronger player within the lifestyle context. — TB: What has been the focus for men’s footwear? Is it more performance, lifestyle or fashion related? TSE: SPG is our internal term that stands for Style, Performance and Green – our unique design formula that goes into everything we make. It’s based on what people look for when they shop. Firstly, they care about how it looks (Style), then how it works (Performance), and finally they’re happy to see it was made with the planet in mind (Green). Our efforts are focused on increasing the weight of the S but keeping the P and G that make us different from competitors.



— TB: How many Timberland stores do you currently have in the UK? TSE: In the uk there are 17 retail stores, with Timberland’s presence strengthened through the existence of 13 franchise stores and seven outlets. — TB: Is retail presence something you are looking to grow in the UK market going forward? TSE: Yes it is. We want to achieve this growth in the uk market through the opening of franchise stores, as we have experienced positive results with our existing partners. At the moment, we are working to a target of 10 new stores, all to be opened in a/w 14. We are also continually looking at how our in-store presence can be improved, to ensure a world-class experience and service. — TB: How important is independent retailer business to your growth strategy, and what are the key styles seeing success with independents? TSE: From a wholesale perspective, it’s our opportunity to reach consumers across the region with great Timberland product. Having strong wholesale partnerships and the best customer service is critical to our success as a brand. The wholesale business is continuing to grow and be ever more valuable in the uk. The iconic six-inch boot continues to perform well for Timberland for both men and women. Cupsole is the latest version of this classic style. — TB: Who are your top-five stockists in the UK across men’s and womenswear? And why do you think they retail the brand so well? TSE: Currently these would be Schuh, Office, Jones, John Lewis and JD Sports. Timberland has taken its approach to fashion a step further with a focus on style at the forefront of new product development. These stockists appreciate the increasing demand and interest in Timberland. — TB: Is the famous classic Timberland boot undergoing a fashion renaissance once again, with the likes of Jay Z and Kanye West wearing them? TSE: In 1973 we built our original yellow boot. It was a rugged, durable, waterproof leather boot made for cold, wet weather. Today it’s the “icon” of our brand, and it symbolises our heritage of authenticity and quality. In the 90s, the uS hip-hop community was wearing our YB, and today our original boot is right at the centre of trends such as rugged style, authenticity, durability and

American values. Celebrities love it, and their endorsement of course helps the brand to be even hotter these days. Our challenge is to make the rest of our collection as desirable as our “icon”, and we are on the right track. — TB: What else is new with regard to Timberland going into other areas? TSE: We have taken the iconic boot and spun it differently onto a cupsole; different by the fact that it’s recycled rubber. With it we introduced more colour and materials to make it relevant to the younger consumer. The Newmarket Cupsole range for this spring is our urban and trend connection. We have stayed true to the brand values with rich leathers, recycled linings and comfort, and sales have exceeded expectations, too. — TB: How are you developing the apparel lines? Is it all about lifestyle or are there more fashion elements being introduced for a/w 14? TSE: From a design perspective, our products are rooted in the brand’s heritage – ruggedly stylish, beautifully crafted, with attention to every detail. Designed out of Timberland’s International Design Centre (IDC) in London, the new Timberland apparel collection is made with the same focus on craftsmanship that went into our first boot. — TB: If the classic boot is the most iconic item of footwear that Timberland produces, what would be the most iconic item of clothing? TSE: Above all else, Timberland is known for its leather products. And, just like leather has always been a part of our heritage, so has waterproof. Our seasonal waterproof apparel is lightweight and breathable. It’s also easy to layer, making it more versatile. This season’s outerwear is built for the ultimate in outdoor protection from the cold. We use down and Primaloft® insulation to make our jackets easy to move in, as well as warm and light. For the first time we have worked on more casual and day-to-day pieces, and one of our key styles is a blazer that comes in two colours. Our pants and denim offerings have also grown. — TB: How does the men’s business compare to the women’s?

TSE: Globally, firstly in terms of product, the breakdown is around 70 per cent footwear compared to 30 per cent apparel and accessories. Apparel is much more relevant on the men’s side today, but we’re working on improving the style and fits for women. In terms of footwear, it’s still a higher men’s contribution, but one of our key priorities is to fulfill women’s needs with a stronger casual collection. — TB: What are the key new footwear styles for a/w 14? TSE: versatile footwear that can transition from work to a social event to an outdoor activity. The Earthkeepers Britton Hill collection, for example, has beautiful leather uppers, rugged outsoles and hidden SensorFlex performance features that make it well-suited for almost any event. The Brookpark range is our best expression of refined design for the most exigent fashionistas, but still a comfortable shoe for everyday situations, and the Stormbuck Duck line is built for men who want a shoe that provides protection against all weather, but also looks right in the city. — TB: What message are you trying to get across to consumers? TSE: We want to emphasise our message – Best Then. Better Now. Since 2013, Timberland has stepped forward each season with a refreshed sense of style, youthfulness and purpose that rings true to the brand. We’re taking a more lifestylefocused direction – new silhouettes and head-totoe looks – that pays tribute to our roots while showcasing a more modern design, which can be seen in our footwear and apparel. — TB: What are your ultimate goals for the brand? TSE: We want to keep the label hot and relevant to our millennial consumer. We want to knock on new consumers’ doors, showing new stylish and versatile collections and talking to them on a daily basis through all communication channels, off and online, putting digital at the core of our business. At the end of 2012, Timberland was a $1.5bn brand. The fiveyear goal is that, by the end of 2017, Timberland will be a $2.3bn business.

“From a wholesale perspective, it’s our opportunity to reach consumers with great product. Having strong wholesale partnerships and the best customer service is critical to our success as a brand”



FAR EAST FORTUNES Drawing inspiration from places such as Brunei, Hong Kong, India and Nepal, British designer Kaushal Niraula enters the a/w 14 market with a range that marries classic design with contemporary styling. Showcasing its second collection at London Collections: Men earlier this year, highlights included a single-breasted checked pastel pink wool overcoat, a midnight blue silk pinstripe tux and vibrant accessories such as teal ties and a magenta evening scarf. The colours and vibrancy taken from these regions and cultures can be seen through the use of velvets, cashmere and silks. This is blended with the traditional cut and tailoring inspired by the English gentleman, creating unique hybrid designs. —


Product news


Heart and sole


The Borders’ brother brands are back


It’s a man’s world

Rounding up the key stories this month




Walk this way


The final call

MWB’s seasonal footwear shoot

Check mate The key trends, news and developments for the gent footwear sector A/w 14 accessories round-up

Profiling knitwear label Peter Scott Trends to emerge from Moda Gent




Spotlighting style.

Inside menswear.

M AT E R I AL GI R L under the helm of new agency Brand Maison, artisan label Papillon enters the uk market for a/w 14. Founded by designer Federica Barbieri, the collection is a series of unique bow ties created from fabrics sourced from around the world. From London to Turin and Paris to New York, Barbieri scours vintage markets for designer fabrics and cut-offs to produce one-off exclusive “work of arts”, as she so fondly describes them. Divided into designer fabrics, comics and father and son, the collection makes for a talking point in-store. —

WEAREFORE ESTABLISHED: 2013 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Comprising a single product category – shirting – the characteristics of this brand are contemporary styling with luxe fabrics and finishes. — HISTORY: Founded by established menswear designer Anne Marie Ng, WeAreFore made its debut at London Collections: Men earlier this year. With its combination of understated luxury and premium fabrics, London Collections: Men created the ideal platform for the debut range from menswear designer Anne Marie Ng. Through her menswear label WeAreFore, Ng has taken the skills and knowledge she developed while at tailoring specialist Gieves & Hawkes and created a comprehensive collection of shirt essentials. A/w 14 is inspired, according to Ng, by the time of day known as the “blue hour”. In a palette of deep, rich blues and crisp ice whites, the shirts come in a selection of washed Japanese selvedge fabrics, Egyptian cotton denims, indigo pique, brushed checks and Swiss organic Royal Oxford. Alongside the shirt collection is a capsule offer of soft, merino crew necks crafted in Hawick, Scotland, as well as accessories, which include the first of the brand’s exclusive house prints – Pixel Diamond Armour – utilised across silk twill and cotton bow ties, scarves and hand-rolled pocket squares. A Central St Martins graduate, Ng is also known as NG and previously ran a 90s men’s casualwear label that sold around the world to the likes of Brown’s Focus, Colette, Harvey Nichols, Barneys New York and Fred Segal. WeAreFore is available through agency Index London.

SHAR PE N T HE AR ROW This season sees shirt label Arrow extend its offer to include blazers, jackets and trousers to create a complete lifestyle collection. In the brand’s trouser category, for example, buyers can expect chinos and five-pocket trousers in classic colours such as navy and sand. The chino impresses by the cotton-twill category and its casual appearance. Silhouettes are slim-cut and bring a more trend-focused element to the collection. Accessories, meanwhile, are extended for the new season, with Arrow placing emphasis on print including polka dots, stripes and bandana paisley. —


ON TREND Seasonal extras: Watches

STABLE M AT E S Lingerie and loungewear specialist Patricia Eve has added a new name to its stable in the shape of Turkish label Blackspade. The men’s line comes in a series of bold colourways, as well in various prints and patterns. Ranging from small to XXL, the collection is broken down into six lines including Silver, which incorporates a silver waistband, and has a shiny surface finish; and Mood Lite, which uses cotton modal elasthane blended fabrics for maximum softness. Comfort, meanwhile, features cotton modal blended fabrics that are loosened for larger sizes. A key line is the Colour category, which sees boxer shorts presented in seven different colours, with a sports-inspired waistband. —






1: ICE WATCH £62.50 01494 486220 2: DANIEL WELLINGTON £74.50 0046 18130502 3: MAURICE LACROIX RRP £990 4: TRIWA £128 020 7377 9083 5: SIMON CARTER £50 020 8683 4475


GODSPEED GOODS Discovered at this season’s Jacket Required, Godspeed Goods is the brainchild of brothers James and Mark Wilkie. Owners of creative agency The Narrative, the design duo expanded into the accessories sector in 2009 and have now finalised their first product to enter the wholesale market. Offering a premium, made-in-the-uk holdall, the brand has put its focus on premium materials and finishes. Designed for intense everyday use, each bag is constructed from military grade wool and luxury vegetable-tanned cowhide. This is reinforced with a kevlar ripstop bottom and fully lined with pig suede – all of which are water, oil and flame resistant. Detailing, meanwhile, includes front bellow pockets with secure flats that close using strong leather straps and brass roller buckles. The back panel is functional and big enough in which to fit smartphones, tables, pens, tools and notebooks. In terms of the interior of the bag, there are two full-width pockets designed to hold large documents, and one side features a dense foam wool padded compartment, while the leather shoulder strap is removable and attached with solid brass swivel clip buckles. Following its debut at Jacket Required, which was dressed and merchandised by The Narrative, Godspeed Goods caught the eye of premium menswear independent Anthem and will be stocked for a/w 14.

ESTABLISHED: 2009 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Comprising one signature design, the accessory label presents a luxury holdall bag, designed to stand the test of time. — HISTORY: Co-founded by brothers James and Mark Wilkie, Godspeed Goods is the fashion arm of creative agency The Narrative – also owned by the duo.


BARBOUR £25.95 0800 009 988

NOTCH LONDON £25 07773 775092

GUIDE £18 020 7481 1111

DOUBLE TWO £14.99 01924 375651

BEN SHERMAN £21 020 7812 5300

BOOMERANG £32 020 7603 4500

SKOPES £14 0113 240 2211

CHECK MATE Check shirts are given a bolder update this season, with both short and long sleeve alternatives receiving an injection of red, green and blue. Plaids, Prince of Wales and lumberjack designs feature throughout, while contrasting colour-block sleeves modernise this wardrobe classic. —

JEKYLL & HYDE £20 0161 767 8821

JUPITER SHIRTS £12.95 0116 236 2304

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale



WALK THIS WAY Brand extensions and interesting collaborations are key to the footwear sector this season, with many brands returning to classic designs updated with innovative fabrics and finishes. —

 BO GS Footwear brand Bogs continues with some of its key Classic models in its range for a/w 14, plus the addition of some new styles. New for the brand’s menswear range is the Rancher Lite (pictured) – a lighter duty version of the classic Rancher. Featuring EverDry 2mm lining and a BioGrip anti-slip and chemical-resistant outsole, the boot is 100 per cent waterproof. —

 TRICKER’S British heritage brands Tricker’s and Wolsey have joined forces for the new season to create a special-edition golf shoe. Authentic craftsmanship is evident through materials such as calf leather uppers and linings, a leather insole and a stitched leather outsole. With a clean and minimal design, the style features Wolsey’s signature use of red as an internal pop colour. The shoes will launch for autumn/winter 2014 and retail at £390. —

 F R ANK W R I GHT The new season from footwear brand Frank Wright focuses on understated, casual styling. Highlights include classic brogues, loafers, heavy bottomed Oxford styles, desert boots and traditional lace-ups. A number of designs feature high-shine leather, punching details and patent toe caps. Statement shades of cherry, navy and dark red are juxtaposed with rich autumnal brown and walnut hues, all applied to leather and suede uppers. —


 GU I DE LO NDO N Clothing label Guide London expands its offer into footwear this season, designed to complement its full apparel collection perfectly. Highlights include leather desert boots with a thin sole, pointed leather boots with elasticated sides and derby shoes with a high-shine finish, available in brown and black. A key style for the more trend-led is the blue suede wing-tip brogue with contrast shoelaces. —

British heritage brand Barbour continues to go from strength to strength with its footwear offer. This season’s collection comprises earthy country colours including brown, greens and black, with highlights including smart Derby brogues, water-resistant Chelsea boots and classic Wellingtons. A new addition for the more fashion-conscious man, Barbour introduces a casual version of the classic brogue – the Falstaff (pictured) – which features a combination of wax and leather as well as an off-white cup sole. —


 J SHO E S The new season sees footwear brand J Shoes collaborate with British heritage label Peregrine. Presenting a boot with a knitted upper for a/w 14, the design marries the quality, craftsmanship and durability of J Shoes with British knitwear manufactured by Peregrine in its own factory. To accompany the footwear hybrid, buyers can also expect a limited run of hats and jumpers, which incorporate the design ethos of the footwear offer. —

 BAR K E R LO NDO N The main focus for British label Barker London for a/w 14 is placed on heritage styling. Across the brand’s comprehensive collection, key styles include traditional brogues and Derbys. Both incorporate casual waxy and smart calf leathers on heavy commando soles. Detail comes in the form of interesting notched welts. —

 LOAK E Loake focuses on classic styling and hard-wearing rubber soles for a/w 14. Among the highlights in the premium 1880 range are the traditional military inspired Hyde toe-cap Derby boot and a hiker influenced Samuel toe-cap Derby boot. Hyde comes with rubber Dainite studded soles in black calf, dark-brown burnished calf and tan burnished grain. Samuel, meanwhile, has a leather Goodyear welted sole, classic round toe, and is available in black and antique brown. —

 AIGLE This season, iconic French label Aigle has joined design forces with British brand Nigel Cabourn on a unique collection, inspired by the mix of vintage French workwear and traditional British hunting attire. Marrying two outerwear specialists, the core of the collection features authentic detailing and dependable fabrics. Comprising six garments, three boots and one bag, the collection is produced in a series of waxed canvas and aged cotton, wool, leather, rubber and felt. —

 C HAT HAM M AR I NE Chatham Marine unveils its comprehensive collection of high-performance outdoor footwear for a/w 14. Key styles include the Goodyear welted brogues (pictured), which feature premium leather uppers in a choice of tan, dark brown and black. The Forest Wellington boot, meanwhile, is designed for both men and women with a supple finish that is snug on the calf and features a cleated walking sole and neoprene lining. —


the final Call

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

high-quality materials and luxe finishes signify a more premium take on accessories in the gent sector this season, indicating the potential power of your point-of-sale offer. expect industrial finishes including black onyx and quirky detailing such as stag heads and aztec prints. —

SQUARE CUFFLINKS deniSon BoSton £28 01273 202095

TIE eton ShirtS £25 020 7495 7988

SUNGLASSES triwa £48 020 7377 9083

SOCKS Pantherella £5.10 0800 652 4356


BRACELET fred Bennett £20 020 3206 4823

SILK POCKET SQUARE tyler & tyler RRP £35 0121 360 4279

STAG HEAD CUFFLINKS Simon Carter RRP £50 020 8683 4475

HOLDALL fedon PRICE ON REQUEST 01273 202095

MEN’S JEWELLERY COLLECTION For more information or to become a stockist contact: T: 01376 532 000 E: W:

FOOD FOR THE SOLE The key footwear trends for the autumn/winter 2014 buying season. —



AIGLE £54. 20 01608 813860

GANT £54 020 7201 2934

DR M ART E NS PR I C E O N R E QU E ST 07970 802782

FRO NT £28 020 8773 7800

made in ChelSea the new season sees a welcome return of the more rugged Chelsea boot and, with trouser lengths shortening, showcasing a great boot is vital. while black leather remains key, tan washed leather dominates the trend and silhouettes stay clean with little detailing. — WR ANGLE R PR I C E O N R E QU E ST w w w. w ran g ler- eu ro p e. co m

GUIDE £36 020 7481 1111

HEY DU DE £27. 30 01202 575394

ACUPUNCT UR E £30 0844 229 0229

ST E PT RO NI C £46 01664 454920

GUIDE £30 020 7481 1111

feeling Blue translating through from s/s 14, blue tones yet again dominate the more contemporary sector of the footwear market. Suede leads fabric choice across boat shoes, brogues and plimsolls, while injections of neon shades in linings and piping revive the trend for a new season. — FRO NT £18. 90 020 8773 7800

SUPERGA £22.92 07506 748672

BAM BO O A £30. 50 020 8773 7800

DJINNS PR I C E O N R E QU E ST w w w. d j i n n s. eu

BRO O K S HE R I TAGE £33 01202 575394

GEOX £49 020 3227 0502

running late a major footwear trend for 2014, the retro running trainer continues to feed the latest obsession with all things 80s. Perfect for the more mature man, a subtle colour palette of khaki, grey and black offers a suitable alternative to bold pop shades, while minimalist detailing keeps the trend streamlined. — LO NSDALE PR I C E O N R EQU EST 0845 164 1712

WESC £22 01271 865600

AIGLE £56.20 01608 813860

DR M ART E NS PR I C E O N R E QU E ST 07970 802782

PAR ADI GM A £58 0035 1225074153

GANT PR ICE O N R EQU EST 020 7201 2934

Brogue trader a winter-appropriate footwear option, the brogue boot is a wardrobe essential. expect formal brogue detailing found on leather uppers, while soles are updated this season with weatherproof features such as extra grip and thicker tread. — LOAK E £97. 75 01536 415411

IKO N R R P £70 02476 324670


 

Quality Luxury Heritage Made in Scotland

T: 01450 363100 E:


the BorderS’ Brother BrandS are BaCk Peter Scott knitwear and lochcarron of Scotland are two historic brands from the Scottish Borders now united by the same owner – e-land, which also owns gloverall. there is big investment going on to increase the manufacturing and jointly raise brand profiles, as tom Bottomley found out from group head of sales and marketing anthony Stennett. — South korean company e-land bought Peter Scott out of administration four years ago, buying lochcarron of Scotland from previous owner alistair Buchan a year later – in the summer of 2011. It’s no longer a family run business, but it is in a family of businesses that also includes Gloverall, Mandarina Duck and Coccinelle. Such brands are now feeling the benefits of having such a powerhouse of a company behind them. E-Land was founded in 1980 by Chairman Park Sung-soo, starting from a small clothing shop in Seoul, the capital of South Korea. Park has since turned his humble beginnings into a huge international business. But why is the company called E-Land, one might ask? “It’s because Chairman Park is a great Anglophile,” says Anthony Stennett, Lochcarron of Scotland and Peter Scott group head of sales and marketing. “He wanted to register the name England, but apparently it’s owned by the country. If you see him, he’s got very English style – he always in a blazer and flannels, and dresses like a typical English gentleman. The brands he’s collected are quintessentially British. He likes to keep everything in place in terms of the manufacturing. It’s all about E-Land investing to develop the brand.” E-Land is indeed a major investor in Scotland, and the company has had meetings with the government about the resurgence of the Scottish knitwear and weaving industry, and what they can do to help out, too. Stennett says, “What they can do to help us is take their hand off their heart and put it in their pocket – in old-fashioned London speak. We’re looking for investment in the form of

training, so that we can build up our skill set. It takes us a year to assess whether someone has the attention to detail and hand-eye coordination to make ‘a part’ of one of our garments. “At the end of that year we will start the real training,” he continues. “The knitwear from Peter Scott is made in 24 different hand processes. In a sense it’s a tailored product. Everything is knitted – there is no cut and sew. Fully fashioned is to knitwear what bespoke is to tailoring.” Though it may be a handmade luxury, topend product, it doesn’t come at a top-end price. Stennett says that if you were buying such quality and craftsmanship from the likes of Brunello Cucinelli you’d be paying upwards of £1,000. From Peter Scott it retails at £250 for the cashmere, and starts at £150 for the merino wool knitwear. The brand has always been thought of as “very Scottish”, which of course it is, but the aim is make it more “international”. Even Chanel bought the old Barrie cashmere mill in Hawick in 2012 to further prove the value in such manufacturing skills in the Borders region. “My role since coming into the business a year ago is to up the game,” says Stennett. “I was previously chief executive of a group of textile companies in Lancashire, but I saw the opportunity to do something with well-invested companies in Scotland. I’ve always been interested in luxury labels, and luxury brand management is my background. The thought of being able to work with two great manufacturing companies, something that is totally unique to us, I really couldn’t resist it.” Over the last three years there has been over

£1m worth of investment in new plants and machinery to give them the very latest in computer-controlled technology. “From 1878 to 2014 Peter Scott has always been in the knitwear business and, between both Lochcarron of Scotland in Selkirk and Langholm and Peter Scott in Hawick, we’re a major employer in the Borders area,” says Stennett. In the case of Lochcarron, which has been manufacturing since 1947, it has an enviable customer list on private label, including the likes of Ralph Lauren, Paul Smith, Calvin Klein, Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. In fact the list goes on and on, whether it’s supplying scarves and accessories or developing the textiles so it gives clients authenticity and exclusivity. “We have a huge team of designers, and they can do anything,” says Stennett. “All of our tartans are registered with the Tartan Registry, which is now controlled by the Scottish government. We have around 3,000 tartans in our archive.” Surely that must be the largest in the world. Now Lochcarron of Scotland is aiming to further establish its own brand name, and retailers looking for the real deal, when it comes to scarves in particular, need look no further. Between them the two brands have new hope and, potentially, a very bright future. The Borders are striking back, albeit with Korean money. — E-Land was founded in 1980 by Chairman Park Sung-su and started from a small clothing shop in Seoul, the capital of South Korea. But Park has turned his humble beginnings into the country’s 60th largest business group.




it’S a man’S world


Making its way through both contemporary and classic names at Moda Gent, chambray is set to be a key fabric choice in casual shirting for a/w 14. Although an obvious option for relaxed dressing, chambray shirts can also be a stylish addition to tailoring and formalwear. The lightweight cotton cloth is both versatile and durable, with detailing in contrast cuffs and inside collar panelling, as well as button-down collars and subtle logo application, featuring throughout. —


C ALL O F DU T Y Heavyweight down parkas continue to reign in terms of winter-appropriate outerwear this season, receiving a stylish makeover for a/w 14. Bold colourways in both outerwear shell and inner lining were dotted throughout, while timeless navy and khaki shades remain favourites. Fur, both faux and real, lined hoods, while functional utilitarian pockets were placed across the main body of the parka, as well as incorporated within the lining and across sleeves. —


Florals are a key print for s/s 14, and now it seems the autumn months, too. In a more subdued colour palette than its contemporary counterparts, the mainstream menswear market welcomed a mix of ditzy floral prints and illustrated surface patterns. In a series of autumnal shades including brown, green and plum, one of the highlights of this trend was a floral overlay print on tweed, which integrated this story perfectly into the more classic menswear sector. —


moda’s latest edition presented the season’s key trends across both contemporary and classic menswear. mwB was on hand to highlight some of the stand-out themes of a/w 14. —















While colour was certainly toned down in comparison to seasons past, there were splashes of vibrant tones spotted at the show in the form of contrasting collars. From bold orange to rich purple tones, tweed country jackets and Prince of Wales blazers were updated with fabric blocking. In terms of materials, velvet dominated Crombie styles, with moss green offering a more colourful alternative to the signature black. —


A familiar shade throughout the winter months, mustard returns for a/w 14 across outerwear, tailoring and knitwear. Under-collar panelling, again, featured in this rich tone, while garments such as the peacoat were updated from camel to a more vivid mustard option. Tailoring, meanwhile, embraced this colour in a series of blazers, waistcoats and ties, teaming both checked and floral prints for added interest. —












SUNDAY SERVICE Brother label to popular womenswear brand Louche, Hymn made its debut into the UK wholesale menswear market at Bread & Butter Berlin earlier this year. A/w 14 sees the inclusion of technical pieces with innovative dyeing and composition techniques. These sit confidently next to quirkier items such as knitwear featuring lobster and whale motifs, as well as classic sweats, chambray shirts and chinos. Established to “provide premium quality staple clothing at an affordable price” for the 20-40 age group, the label’s signature style is wearable, durable and blends simplicity with a twist. Currently stocked across the board, from independents to online retailers, the brand has fast formed relationships with Korean, Russian and Japanese markets. —


Product news


All in the detail


Boneville back to show Osti still rules


Setting the Bench mark


Bestsellers list

Rounding up the key stories this month




Pointing East


Reaching gridlock


Best foot forward

Perfect point-of-sale add-ons and extras

Flower bomb

The return of the 80s classic

Jacket Required highlights Exclusive editorial from Jacket Required What the contemporary and urban footwear sector has to offer

The latest direction of Manchester brand Bench Tom Bottomley picks the bestsellers from Moda Select



ProduCt newS

Spotlighting style.

inside menswear.


ONLy & SONS ESTABLISHED: 2014 — HISTORY: A new addition to the BestSeller roster, the Danish family owned company was founded in 1975 and also owns Selected Homme and Jack & Jones. — SIGNATURE STYLE: Denim styles such as jeans, shirts and jackets. only & Sons is the latest creation of Scandinavian fashion house BestSeller and is a new, market-driven brand with a strong focus on contemporary fashion, in particular denim. Cleverly done, the collection is designed so the wearer can create many complete looks from a number of versatile pieces, including shirts, tees, knits, sweats, jackets and jeans. Heritage denim is a key source of inspiration for the brand, influencing techniques such as fabric coating, indigo dyeing and herringbone and jacquard weaving. Hidden details are key and show up in unexpected places, adding an extra dimension of craftsmanship and value. A focus for Only & Sons was to create a collection structure that reflected the needs of the retail market. The first leg consists of six seasonal lines divided into 12 drops distributed over the year. The brand also has a NOS programme, as well as an Express line that follows up on successes and on-trend styles available if needed. All three parts of this structure are built around a cohesive colour card, making it possible for the retailer to combine styles across the collections. Currently stocked in Bank, USC, Ark and Dr Kruger, the brand will be available across Europe with wholesale prices ranging from £3.10 for T-shirts to £31.25 for outerwear.

Divine Trash is a Manchester label with attitude. Born from the want of the 15-25 year-old market looking for something more exciting than the mid-level brands at the time, the label developed its first sub-brand – Trash – in 2012. Following the success of Trash, this season will see both lines become unified under the original Divine Trash name. In terms of design, s/s 14 focuses on constructed garments with cleverly placed prints. The introduction of new silhouettes such as layering tops with stepped hems and branded zips sees the product mix evolve into a combination of classic shapes and fashion-led shapes. Fabrics, meanwhile, include mesh and Airtex mixed with poly-treated jersey lined fabrications to showcase an American sports influence. —

TAK I NG NOTE Add-on products are a key consideration for retailers this season, and this includes stationery and grooming goods, as well as the usual tie, cuff link and bag selection. Field Notes is an American company that specialises in notebooks, calendars, pens and pencils. Stocked by some of menswear’s coolest indies including Canopy, HUB, Fortnum & Mason and Present London, the brand has laid solid foundations in the UK market. Retailers can even customise their own notebooks with logos and text. —


ON TREND Seasonal extras: Bucket hats






1: ORIGINAL PENGUIN price on request 020 7927 3960 2: ICON BRAND £11.67 020 3137 7217 3: QUIKSILVER £8 020 7392 4020 4: WEEKEND OFFENDER £9.26 01332 342068 5: PENFIELD £14.40 020 7720 5050

ST UPIDLY ST YLISH Active brand Stupid Clothing has launched a new website, with the aim to build on the success of its initial success within the action sports sector. Comprising a range of sweatshirts, hoodies and tees – all carrying the label’s distinctive Stupid logo – the brand is a blend of action sportswear and casual streetwear. Stupid Clothing also sponsors a UK surf team and is a major supplier of casualwear to professional, semi-professional and amateur surfers, snowboarders and skiers. —

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

Brand to watCh

BLACK KAVIAR Combining the best of european detailing with a strong sense of raw, underground streetwear styling, Black kaviar enters the uk market for s/s 14 with a collection designed for “anyone with a keen eye for luxury urban styling and detailing.” With emphasis on a simple monochrome palette and contrasting silhouettes, the brand draws inspiration from the grit and glamour of the streets and urban culture. From hooded sweaters with subtle stud detailing, floral bombers with contrast leather sleeves and graphic printed T-shirts and vests to dropped crotch sweatpants, leather shorts and dungarees, the latest drop from the streetwear label is dynamic and certainly worth a look. Independent retailers who have spotted the brand’s potential include Serene Order, Diffusion and Anno Domini, while international stockists include Peek & Cloppenburg and Wormland in Germany, Rainbow and Le Cent Un in Paris and Still So Fly and Kitson in the US. Wholesale prices range from £17.50 for T-shirts to £62 for outerwear.

ESTABLISHED: 2013 — HISTORY: Conceived by Parisian designer Benjamin Krief, Black Kaviar was established to cater for a gap in the market for a luxury, high-end men’s streetwear label. — SIGNATURE STYLE: Rooted in urban culture, the brand isn’t afraid to push boundaries and is influenced by dark urban landscapes. —


EAST STREET £10 020 3627 0451

QUIKSILVER £20 020 7392 4020

ICON BRAND £12 01872 571666

flower BomB filtering down from the catwalk, florals are having somewhat of a renaissance, and are no longer just a print suited to the fairer sex. Stemming from intricate foliage and micro florals through to tropical hawaiian motifs, this print is definitely in bloom this season. —

WORN BY £11.20 020 7729 1893

PENFIELD £7.20 020 7720 5050

SAMSOE & SAMSOE £34 020 7253 6404

NEW LOVE CLUB £12 020 3627 0451

EDWIN £92 020 7278 4494

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

ELEMENT £12 0033 558730059


Pointing eaSt Bigger, better and busier was the overwhelming opinion on this season’s Jacket required, back by demand at Brick lane’s truman Brewery. there was plenty on offer at the london show, and many “hero pieces” from several key brands, as tom Bottomley discovered. — EDM UND HILL ARY


hero piece: nepalese chunky cardigan Dean Batty and his wife (a designer and expert pattern cutter who worked for Belstaff for 12 years) are behind this new number, showing at Jacket Required for the first time. All made in England, and carrying the name of the explorer who reached the summit of Mount Everest for the first time in 1953, the range is inspired by his quest. But make no mistake, these are pieces for the “fash pack”, albeit with enough technical details – on the outerwear at least – to keep outdoor types happy. Peter Hillary, Edmund’s son, is ambassador to the brand, and Batty and co have the licence for the next 20 years on clothing and accessories. “We’ve interpreted what ‘used to be’, but we don’t want to be stuck in the past,” says Batty. There are chunky roll-necks, parkas, goose down, waxed wools and tweed, but the hero piece is the chunky six-needle Nepalese knitted zip-front cardigan, which is more like a jacket. The brand’s logo is three peaks, as per Mount Everest, and it’s incorporated in the pattern of the knit. —

hero piece: ashland jacquard coat If you’re holding out for a hero, this could well be it. A bold piece for the brave to be sure, but one that will rock any window display with aplomb. Pendleton has upped its game for a/w 14, and the all-new Thomas Kay 14-piece capsule collection – featuring the stand-out Ashland jacquard coat – is the icing on the cake. Funnily enough, Kay was a chap from Huddersfield who was into the woollen business and went to the States to make his fame and fortune. He founded Pendleton Woollen Mills in 1863, and the original factory is still there in Oregon. Robin Bolton, now with a sales role at Options, which handles the UK for Pendleton, says, “It’s classed as a premium line, but it’s not at a premium price point compared to the rest of the mainline range. The made in USA Navaho influenced Ashland coat, with the all-important shawl collar, will retail at £470. It stems from one of the first garments Kay produced at his mill.” Good work Mr Kay. —



hero piece: Surplus parka Not many people in the UK realise that Museum is an Italian brand that’s been around since 1986. This is its fourth outing at Jacket Required and, fittingly for the show, it specialises in excellent outerwear. The label has 200 customers in Italy and a showroom in Milan, though it’s from Verona. The surplus parka was probably the best of its kind at the event, hence its hero piece status. Its components include French Mulard duck down, “90/10 Japanese international standard”, basically meaning it’s of a damn good quality. The parka also comes in a Lora Piana wool and cashmere fabric for a touch of luxe. And, yes, it is expensive, but you get what you pay for. —

hero piece: mixed wool striped coat Founder and designer Alexia Hentsch says, “Our collections started off more formal but, over the past four years, we’ve gradually taken it more casual. We still have all the tailoring, but we’ve softened shoulders and loosened the silhouette of our coats. It represents what’s going on around us – with streetwear getting more elegant, and formal becoming more casual. We’re playing with the old and the new, as well as the high and low brow.” In other words, covering all bases. Traditional fabrics are very much evident but with the stuffiness taken out in terms of cuts and colour. And the big new thing for Hentsch Man is the development of its own fabrics in Italy. The mohair-look mixed wool striped coat is a fine example of this. “Men are getting more flamboyant,” says Hentsch. “And this coat is for a dapper chap who likes to stand out.” —




Hero piece: MA-1 type jacket Established in New York in 1998, Left Field has somewhat been off the radar when it comes to the UK in recent years, despite once having a decent following. But it’s back, and Jacket Required provided the platform for the first UK trade show return for eight years (when To Be Confirmed was around). Brand president Christian McCann says, “The show’s been good, and we’re happy to be back in England and looking forward to getting some new shops on board.” The Left Field of old was more sporty (as the Japanese market dictated at the time), but this is more premium heavyweight workwear pieces and denim focused, all made in the good ’ol USA. “The key jacket is like an old MA-1 style that we just cleaned up and produced in a Woolrich heritage civil war fabric. It’s definitely more on the fashion tip,” says McCann. —

Hero piece: Mackinaw denim and leather coat Another capsule line provides Edwin with some outerwear gems for a/w 14, in collaboration with Alexander Leather from Selkirk in Scotland – the maker of vintage-inspired jackets with a modern fit. Edwin’s Rey Gautier says, “We’re using our 14oz Japanese denim, which we use in our five-pocket collection, mixing it with leather from the US that they cut by hand. Each piece is made by one machinist from start to finish.” There’s also a typical A-2 leather flying jacket that looks the real deal, and a type D-1 sheepskin flying jacket you simply want to fly off with. But the denim and leather trimmed Mackinaw coat with shearling shawl collar gets the hero vote. —



Hero piece: Tan Oxford boot Now in its sixth season, Peter Werth footwear is coming into its own with a thriving business with Schuh, and head of sales Paul Batista says the product belies the price point. A basic suede Derby shoe retails at £70, a chunky brogue at £85 and £110 for boots. The leather and suede combination boot is apparently a nod to Alden, but at a third of the price. And the grained tan leather Oxford ankle boot has a touch of Victorian England about it. “We’re one of only three brands, with the other two being Paul Smith and Ted Baker, which has managed to accrue such an equity in footwear for which we’ve not previously been formerly recognised for,” says Batista. —

Hero piece: Cadet jacket Actually, the top-end pieces fall under the original Russell Southern labelling, and the Cadet jacket, which looks like a vintage varsity jacket with a knitted roll-over collar and three-quarter-length cut, is no exception. It’s a “made in Japan” capsule collection that ticks all the boxes for an American label that apparently invented the sweatshirt, and is the oldest American sportswear brand, founded in 1902. Stuart Graham, the man with the spiel, and heading up sales with A Number of Names, says, “Russell Southern made products for the US military in the 40s, so the jacket is based on a military cadet’s garment from that period. They also supplied chinos and gym clothes.” The Russell Southern collection is designed by John Lofgren, a collector of vintage apparel based in Japan (where he’s a bit of a legend), who’s Mr Purist when it comes to the finer details and reproductions of quality pieces. Vintage sweats, hoodies and undergarments have been recreated to be brought to a brand new audience that appreciates authenticity. —

ReACHing gRidlOCk

From the team behind leading contemporary menswear show Jacket Required, this exclusive editorial highlights some of the key names that showcased at the Old Truman Brewery this a/w 14. — ALTAMONT MUNG JACKET 0031 203551122, ALTAMONT VAX PANT 0031 203551122, LE COQ SPORTIF RETRO RUNNING HOODY WWW.LECOQSPORTIF.COM







BesT FOOT FORWARd MWB profiles some of the key trends, news and developments for the denim, street and contemporary footwear sector for autumn/winter 2014. —

 PO I NT E R Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, footwear brand Pointer continues to strengthen its offer with a series of new style introductions. First up is Trava, a crafted centre-seam chukka style that fuses modern lines with traditional detailing. A second addition is the Barkley, which is a hybrid sneaker combining casual and athletic style. Pointer is also set to release its latest collaboration with Democratique Socks, with a range of socks blending the two brands’ DNA. —


 BU C K E T F E E T

This season, Volcom is once again dedicated to creating stylish and practical footwear that complements and completes its accessory and apparel collections. Providing high-quality lifestyle-enhancing product to those who share Volcom’s passion for art, music, film and board sports, the complete men’s footwear line is “road-tested” by a variety of Volcom’s athletes and ambassadors in the world’s most challenging conditions, resulting in the utmost in quality, comfort, fun and function. —

Having successfully launched into the UK market for s/s 13, BucketFeet returns this season with a range of five new print designs for its menswear category. The brand’s key style – the Catapult lace-up (pictured) – is central to the latest collection, with prints including graphic paint designs, pineapple motifs and illustrated stylse in a muted colour palette. —

 SAU C O NY From producing boots for the first American astronaut to walk in space to the trainers Ron Dixon wore when he won the New York City marathon, Saucony has produced innovative footwear for over a century. Launched earlier this month, the brand opened its first pop-up store on Neal Street in the heart of London’s Seven Dials. Featuring a museum-style exhibition, the store will showcase some of Saucony’s archive footwear – dating from the 80s to the present day, alongside Saucony Originals, Saucony Performance and collaboration pieces. —


 PALL ADI U M Boot brand Palladium and outerwear manufacturer Alpha Industries have joined forces to create a capsule collection inspired by a shared heritage in military and aviation. The range comprises six unisex boots in classic Palladium silhouettes and a slim-fit reinterpretation of Alpha Industries’ iconic MA-1 flight jacket. Key detailing includes vibrant orange lining to match the MA-1 lining colour, as well as full-length lateral zippers and co-branded ribbon tags. —

 ANTHONY MI LES British contemporary footwear label Anthony Miles continues with its niche of creating new and directional soles with the introduction of a new wedge sole unit. The sole takes a block of colour at the heel and blends it neatly into the mid-section of the sole while keeping the colour visible from the side. Further updates have been added across the collection as well as the use of new materials and techniques such as rubberised leather. —

 SU PR E M E BE I NG A/w 14 at Supremebeing takes inspiration from influences as diverse as 70s skateboarding, vintage tailoring, American workwear and British premium streetwear. The result is a coherent but varied collection, ranging from entry point plimsolls to premium leather boots and shoes. The range marries elements of classic footwear design with original shapes, innovative fabrics mixes and considered detail. —

 VI VO BAR E F O OT Performance footwear brand Vivobarefoot launches the Trail Freak for a/w 14 – the label’s most advanced trail shoes that offer off-road running aesthetic supported by the brand’s dominance in barefoot technology. Trail Freak is a lightweight, breathable design with a wide fore-sole element, optimising barefoot feeling and sensory feedback. —

 F LOSSY Originally worn by artists and sailors at Barcelona’s yachting clubs, Flossy continues to expand into the European and global markets. For the new season, the brand has introduced a new addition to its menswear range – the classic desert boot. The collection features a pop of colour on the sole and laces, from blue, through jade to orange. —


All in THe deTAil

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

Brights dominate the accessory sector for the new season, with block colouring juxtaposed with camo and tropical prints. detailing comes in the form of contrasting stitching, leather applications and woven finishes. —

BELT POinTeR x AndeRsOn £32.50 0049 21186206911

TIE PenField £8 020 7720 5050

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BOneville BACk TO sHOW OsTi sTill Rules Another legacy of the late great Massimo Osti, Boneville is back on the fashion map with a new team in london to give it a fresh lease of life. last seen in 1993, it was Osti’s second brand that launched in 1981 after C.P. Company – prior to stone island. Tom Bottomley gets the low-down on the relaunch from creative director Adi Wollaston. —

quite a design genius is Massimo Osti. Firstly he came up with C.P. Company (Chester Perry) in 1975, then he gave us Boneville in 1981 and stone island in 1982. How many people can launch three internationally recognised menswear brands at premium price points in the space of seven years and all with their own distinct handwriting? Well, let’s just say it takes some doing. Boneville, unfortunately, was the one to fall by the wayside but not until 1993 – so it still had 12 years at the top. Osti, even more unfortunately, died in 2005, but his design ethos and constant hunger to create better fabrications lives on through the Massimo Osti Archive in Bologna, Italy, a textile archive that includes 5,000 garments and over 50,000 fabric samples from around 300 textile mills and garment finishing

companies from around the world. It was mainly put together by Osti’s son, Lorenzo, who has given the all-clear for the archive to be used as a source of inspiration, and who is also endorsing the allnew Boneville line. As current creative director Adi Wollaston is keen to point out, though this is influenced greatly by Boneville of old, it is also vital to drive things forward, as Osti himself would have done. Wollaston says, “The collection is inspired by, and is a development of, Osti’s ethos and approach to building garments and collections. But it’s important that the collection is firmly rooted in the here and now. “For that part, the essence may be retrospective, but the Boneville brand was built on innovation, and it would be a missed

opportunity – and a bit of a disappointment – for the clothing to dwell on the past,” he continues. “The industry has changed a lot since 1981. There’s more brand awareness, and the pioneering work we’re building on has influenced the whole industry, so there’s a new feel to the product that should appeal to a new customer base and avid fans.” It was in 2012 when one such avid fan, and entrepreneur no less, John Sharp, bought the Boneville brand. Prior to the Boneville venture, CEO Sharp had amassed over two decades of experience in the fashion industry. He currently owns Branded Stocks, a large-scale sportswear wholesaler, as well as Global Design & Innovation. The latter is responsible for the Osti-inspired brand, MA.STRUM, and is tasked with the ongoing >>>


development of Boneville. It was an acquisition carried out with a view to reintroduce the brand to market and tastefully further the Osti legacy. Sharp set about building the right team he felt was capable of reviving an Osti classic. The team is lead by Wollaston, who has previously worked with brands including Baracuta, The North Face and Timberland. The Boneville of 2014 features two divisions – Boneville and B.N.V Sporting Goods – each boasting a unique aesthetic bound together by a distinct naval influence and maritime character. “We haven’t made a conscious effort to react to trends or to our peers’ activity; we’ve instead spent our time working to realise a series of products that not only appeal visually, but genuinely perform to protect and be of practical use to the wearer,” says Wollaston. “Every aspect of the garment is considered, researched and built from scratch, or found and curated. We aim to elaborate and build on garment and fabric innovation – working with partners who share our vision, building product that not only looks great, but can be tried-andtested staples of the male wardrobe. It’s about reworking and updating, and also product that functions in clever and original ways.” The new Kit System is designed to expand on the whole concept of detachable liners or components. It’s a three-in-one concept, featuring interchangeable pieces that all work together and give the end consumer the opportunity to shape the way the final garment looks and works. The intention is for the individual garments to last and be built on. Pieces you want to keep and collect, such is the case with so many of Osti’s old designs. “The source material hasn’t changed,” says Wollaston. “But it has grown and offers new opportunities for inventing as well as drawing influences from the past.” The Boneville of old was a thoroughly eclectic brand, and it was widely understood as a platform for Osti to experiment with ideas that perhaps didn’t sit within the established aesthetic parameters of Stone Island or C.P. Company. “Though delightfully eclectic in its presentation, Boneville was underpinned by both a maritime and sporting influence, and it’s something we certainly aim to draw upon today,” says Wollaston. “At the time, the brand’s ‘sportswear’ was still generally made for

performance, and was adopted by the fashion markets. Osti was a leading architect of our view of casual clothing today, and changed our perspective of luxury clothing, too. Boneville was something of a playground for him to indulge his love of sports. The modern Boneville maintains such influences, but from a contemporary viewpoint.” “Though delightfully for a/w 14 are in this category. The Harbourmaster is one such In terms of response to the piece – a reversible pea coat in relaunch so far, Wollaston says eclectic in its traditional nautical heavy PVC that they have found many presentation, with a reverse side in Loden. people who recall Boneville and Another one is the Pilotmaster – have enjoyed all sorts of stories Boneville was relating to their first experiences underpinned by both a nautical parka with adjustable length and detachable hood, and with the brand. As the early also utilising the Kit System. collections were so diverse, a a maritime and “They’re stand-out pieces that wealth of differing viewpoints sporting influence, define the concept of traditional exist among those who were able and modern performance – with to enjoy it first time round. “This and it’s something ultrasonic seam sealing on classic transpires to mean we’ve had no we certainly aim to seafaring garments,” says two reactions alike to the new Wollaston. “But we’ve applied the collections,” he says. “Additionally, draw upon today” same mentality to all the all of these stories are being pooled together to help our work. It’s crucial that products, including heavy knitwear and jersey. The we understand our consumer and how the brand aesthetic is also applied to the shirts, with was viewed, so we can all move forward in the detachable and interchangeable component best way. From a personal point of view, I’m a pieces. The whole collection is designed to be great admirer of Massimo Osti, and to work on a enjoyed collectively or individually.” A new London shop housing both Boneville living extension of his portfolio was an opportunity I couldn’t pass up. He remains one of the key and MA.STRUM opens on Artillery Lane, E1, in inspirations that sparked my own interest in design.” Spitalfields in April, and the Boneville collection is also to be sold via the new web shop – Wollaston is certainly not alone on that one. A significant amount of time researching “In respect to wholesale Osti’s full body of work has been spent during this accounts, we’re looking to partner with key project, and Wollaston and his team have since domestic and international retailers who have a built their very own garment archive within the passion for quality product, but also those who are London headquarters in Spitalfields. This ever- willing to invest time to understand the brand and, expanding archive houses not only wares from the importantly, the heritage that comes with it,” says Osti portfolio, but also early military pieces, Wollaston. “We say ‘partner’ as that’s what we examples of classic workwear and more – all truly believe in. We want to build strong bonds with retailers who can positively add to and be sourced from around the globe. “Our archive and continued research helps part of our brand story. With such significant to inform design decisions relative to the modern history behind the brand and what is an inherently day Boneville,” he says. “It will include Osti complex product range, we need to team with signatures, and reference will be paid to original retailers who can tell our story in the best light, garments, however we don’t aim to directly and have an enthusiasm that matches ours. Finally, reproduce original pieces. But we have kept the we would hope that Massimo would have been original labelling and logo across the products. I proud of the way we’ve tried to build on, and expand, his work.” Spoken like a man with a think that’s so important for brand recognition.” Outerwear is always the product that is seen passion and, when dealing with the legend that is to define a collection, and many of the key pieces Massimo Osti, we’d expect nothing else.


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seTTing THe BenCH MARk Manchester brand Bench has undergone a strategic review over the last 18 months, culminating in a new, more focused brand proposition, which was launched for a/w 14 at trade show Bread & Butter Berlin. victoria Jackson speaks to Bob sheard, founder of creative agency for Fresh Britain – the agency behind the new brand strategy and creative overhaul – about the new direction the British label is heading in. —



victoria Jackson: What prompted the undertaking of a major research project to redefine the market position of Bench? Bob Sheard: It was a natural progression and a desire to clarify Bench’s position in the market. The research project – which was comprehensive consumer research across the UK, Germany and Canada – enabled us to formulate a refocused product range structure grounded on a utilitarian design ethos and global culture and social changes. The refocus also happened to coincide, incidentally, with the brand’s 25th anniversary that is happening this year. — vJ: did the research project throw up any surprising results? BS: Yes. The core customer was older than expected at 24-28 with both male and female markets, and the reason they chose Bench was that they came to the brand for clothes with functional design adaptations. The research project was to ascertain some consistency, as the label had started to mean different things in each market. — vJ: so what can we expect for the autumn/winter 2014 collection? BS: The new collection is driven by the demand for multi-purpose functional clothing, which has been split into two ranges – Multipurpose Life and Multipurpose Performance. Multipurpose Life brings together a selection of products, equipping the wearer for 24 hours in the city. Multipurpose Performance, meanwhile, utilises performance fabrics with features such as waterproofing and breathability while maintaining its versatility. The key product within the Life range is the Quadruplejump Hoody, which is a bonded knit with windproof, breathable laminate and high-pile fleece inner. The Soot Fleece Hoody, meanwhile, stands at the highlight of the Performance line. Buyers can expect a nano

fleece with offset CF zip and chin guard for — added comfort, shaped cuff with adaptable vJ: How will price points differ as a result of the reflective trim, integrated bandana, inner wind new collection? cuffs and thumb loops for added protection in BS: Bench will still deliver highly functional, affordable product, however the collection will cold conditions. broaden the choice for consumers in terms of — vJ: How does the resulting Multipurpose range offering up a more premium line while still addressing affordability. If we were going to sit differ from Bench’s previous collections? BS: The collection is still fully rooted in the confidently next to other brands now, it would be brand’s DNA. However, it’s sustained by a the likes of Aether, Acronym and Outlier – all contemporary and function-led approach to specialist-performance clothing labels. product design, as well as renewed consumer- — oriented brand vision, revealing developments in vJ: Are there any plans for an increased retail fabric construction to create products that meet focus as a result of the brand’s new direction? BS: Yes, in Germany, Canada and the UK, plus a the demands of modern 24-hour city life. strong retail presence in the brand’s franchise — vJ: You redefined the contemporary Bench stores. Retail continues as a key strategy moving consumer as a 24-hour city dweller – how has forward. Independent wholesale accounts, this consumer evolved from the brand’s target meanwhile, will benefit from the opportunity to acquire performance clothing in lifestyle channels customer 25 years ago? BS: Now it’s the consumers who thrive in the and a clear focus and direction with exciting city and need their clothing to reflect the product built on a multi-function platform demands of their environment. Before, it centred targeting affluent key consumer group. on a streetwear aesthetic. The Performance — line reflects the customers’ need for clothing vJ: Bench recently returned to Bread & Butter that takes them to the beach, mountains and Berlin after an absence of a few seasons. What prompted this decision and yoga etc. — “The hoody itself has how was the show? BS: Bread & Butter Berlin has vJ: Which elements of the become part of the long since represented the brand’s dnA will remain at the perfect environment to send a heart of the new collection? vernacular of city bold message to trade, which BS: An undeniably multipurpose culture and an iconic is the reason the brand product, Bench has been returned to the show in producing the hoody for 25 garment, which January. The new retail years. The hoody itself has represents concept as debuted through become part of the vernacular the stand and collection was a of city culture and an iconic functionality, great success, with positive garment, which represents performance and and encouraging feedback functionality, performance and from buyers and media. style. It is the focus of the range style. It is the focus — and is intrinsic to the brand’s of the range and is DNA.

intrinsic to the brand’s DNA”


 BR I T I SH BE LT C O M PANY designer Christina Tilford picks the three items getting the most attention from buyers:  “The Holkham satchel in the antique tan leather has been popular. It wholesales at £65 and comes in olive and navy. The holdall from the same collection in tan has also sold exceptionally well. It seems antique tan leather is a real trend and we’ve had to re-order more to keep up with demand.  Our British Millerain holdall in the Broadshaw line is another favourite – especially in the Blackwatch check tartan. Blackwatch has just been a popular check – even Topman has done a suit in it. Waxed fabrics for bags also make sense. It’s a weekend bag, but it appeals to a younger customer. Quite a few independents in the UK have taken it, and it’s proving successful for our American market. The bags are all made out of British fabrics.  In terms of belts, which we make here in a factory established in 1946 in Uppingham, Rutland, our collaboration collection with English bridle leather specialist JE Sedgwick is getting many plaudits. They come in an array of great colours and they are all finished by hand. They wholesale at £25, which is pleasantly surprising a few people because it’s made here.” —

seleCT: BesTselleRs lisT

MWB asked five brands what their three bestsellers were for a/w 14. The elect from select, if you will. —

 MAR SHALL ART I ST The three bestsellers according to Tom summerfield of uk and ireland distributor northern lights Agency:  “First up is our super-tough canvas green parka, which is a Cordura-type quality. It’s waterproof and breathable, and has a full down lining and a sherpa-lined hood. There are also some heritage details, which give it that Nigel Cabourn-type look. But the major thing is the price and what you’re getting for your money. Brands such as Canada Goose sell parkas for upwards of £700, but this is set to retail for £195 on a 2.8 mark-up. Nobody is doing a coat at this level for that kind of price.  The second piece that’s doing well is the burnt orange RAF jacket, based on an old silhouette from WWII. It’s got a detachable hood, so you can wear it smarter, and it’s in a fabric that Marshall Artist has developed – a waxed nylon that has a memory quality to it. It’s PU-coated so it’s windproof as well. That is set to retail for £140, so again amazing for what you’re getting.  Last up is the mac. There’s always a mac in the line, but this one is like Goretex – again sourced out of the North Face factory. It’s waterproof and breathable. It has heat-welded seams and has been laser cut. It’s really smart and the claret colour is great. It is £120 retail, but it would be the wholesale price for a lot of brands out there for this sort of piece.” — >>>


 PE R E GR I NE Owner Tom Glover takes us through three hits of the brand’s a/w 14 collection:  “First up is our ‘funky jumper’. It’s a collaboration with Harris Tweed. It was originally designed because we had lots of little panels and different colours left over on the factory floor. We put them together in one garment and the Japanese absolutely loved it, so we’ve run with it in the line for a/w 14. We make them in our own factory called J.G Glover & Co in Manchester.  Another good seller is a chunky patch zip-neck piece, with a Fair Isle pattern on the inside of the collar. It’s also soft on the inside of the collar because of the way it’s knitted. It’s a fairly classic garment in merino wool, and it’s great for men because it’s got a cardigan stitch at the top half of the body and a single vent at the bottom – so it gives the impression of a good physique! It’s £34 wholesale, to retail at £89 – not bad for a made-in-England quality piece of knitwear.  Lastly I’d say the hooded two-tone field jacket has had the best response from buyers in terms of outerwear pieces. It’s got a Halley Stevensons dry waxed cotton on the top half of the jacket and Harris Tweed on the bottom half. It gives a different look and a really nice shape to it. It’s a simple and clean piece that wholesales for £99, to retail at £259, which is competitive given that it’s made here out of some of the finest fabrics around.” —



Adam Keyte, Midlands and South West sales agent, picks three of the best for a/w 14:  “The Arbus snorkel parka in navy has had a great reaction. It’s a padded nylon retro style with bright orange lining and fake fur hood. It’s also got a fishtail back to it, and a quirky tongue-in-cheek internal label that you’d expect from Weekend Offender. It adds a touch of humour.  The bright red three-quarter length showerproof Gibson parka is another winner. It also comes in bright blue and wholesales at £52 to retail at £140. We’re doing a collaboration with Kent combs, one of the oldest established companies in Great Britain – endorsed by the Queen no less. A foldaway comb is included in an inside pocket of each jacket. It’s a nice touch.  Third up I’d have to say our paisley button-down shirt. We’ve got a strong feeling for paisley for a/w 14, and we’ve also used it for pockets on sweatshirts, tees and collars on polos. We’ve only done one colour to keep it simple.” —

Brand manager Dave Snowdon names three of the brand’s strongest sellers:  “The John boot with the Oxford toecap is proving successful, and it sells to all ages. It has a rubberised sole for greater grip, and a leather heel. It’s also fully leather-lined, and wholesales for £52. Paradigma only just launched in Charles Clinkard stores for a/w 14, and it’s all made in Portugal. The company stems from a second generation manufacturers and they’ve made for a lot of big names, but this is the first time they’ve launched their own brand. The shoes are all fully leather-lined and hand-finished. The bonus is we offer a 2.5 mark-up, which is very good on footwear.  Another good one for a/w 14 is the two-tone double monk strap shoe called Harry, which is beautifully finished. Double monk straps are on-trend at the minute, so this one is striking the right chords with the more switched-on buyers.  Thirdly, there’s the fringed brogue, Edward, in a tumbled leather with a rubberised commando sole unit. The two-tone burgundy is a strong seller. The company’s strength is its use of excellent materials, and we’re definitely getting the key looks right.” —


COlleCTive The people, the places, the products.


SIMON SAYS i’ve had the curious experience of being the subject of a documentary. Well, let me clarify... For two days, a four-person-strong marketing team from Copenhagen accompanied me around my daily routine, interviewing and photographing as they went. They had been commissioned by my hopefully soon-to-be licensing and franchising partner in India. The purpose is to finish up with a media pack that can be shown to Indian shopping mall owners, to sway them to grant my franchisees the best locations for Simon Carter stores. We did the conventional stuff – visited Mayfair, Crystal Palace and Blackheath and spent time in all the stores. The Blackheath visit entailed me standing somewhat vulnerably in the middle of the road while traffic scooted past on both sides, trying to “act natural”. Hopefully I managed to keep the look of fear from my eyes. The most fun I had was at my clothing licensee, PB Tailoring. They were kind enough to let me indulge in a spot of play acting and makebelieve in the pattern room. Moody shots now show me with tailors chalk and big scissors, or conversing earnestly over swatch boards. You really can fool most of the people. The first evening we dined at my club, The Union, in Soho. It’s a small unfussy private members’ club inside an 18th century townhouse. Sort of a mini Soho House but without the hype and attitude. They loved it; it does look particularly English with oxblood red walls and all manner of curiosities on the walls. For their last evening I invited them to my home in South London, as they particularly wanted to get inside the “mind of the brand”, heaven help them. My long suffering marketing manager, Jess, was roped into help make the risotto and, after several bottles of wine, we all began to unwind. Just when I thought I could truly switch off, they began with the “deep” questions. For them, the essence of a brand is not in what it does, but “why”. And it certainly is a good question. It did make me think. As the name above the door, “Why” do I do this? It’s not really for the money, so there must be more to it. The best I could come up with was because I believe that I’m offering genuinely good product that’s affordable. But it all sounded bland and predictable. In truth, I didn’t have the answer that night. I’ll let you know when I’ve figured it out. simon Carter is the CeO of the eponymous brand and retail stores. —

With spots nationwide, as well as in europe, classic comfort food has never looked as tempting as it does at pie specialist Pieminister. — Opening a brand new location in the heart of Manchester’s Northern Quarter, the Bristol-born pie maker offers its award-winning pies in a friendly, relaxed setting. Culminating a cult following in London, with shops in Boxpark, Leather Lane, Camden and Gabrielle’s Wharf, Pieminister offers both eat-in and take-out options. And some options they are. Expect traditional steak and ale, while the Somerset goats’ cheese, sweet potato, spinach and red onion pie offers something a little different. Doors are open from 11am to 10pm, Monday to Saturday, while Sunday’s opening hours are 12pm to 5pm. — PlAn B

gAReTH JOnes, head of sales, Duck and Cover

i’ve not done it for years now, but i wanted to be an actor. i got accepted for drama school at Webber douglas in london, but i couldn’t get a grant from the local authority so i wasn’t able to go. — I did, however, work for the Manchester Actors Company – doing a touring kids’ show one summer. That was in about 1983. I also did amateur shows for a while, and got nominated for best actor by the Greater Manchester Drama Federation in 1997. I was playing the part of Alan Strang in a play called Equus, written by Peter Shaffer in 1973. Let’s just say it’s about a boy who’s obsessed with horses. It was made in to a brilliant film starring Richard Burton many years ago. When I retire from this business, acting is something I’d like to re-visit. —



ClOseT COnFidenTiAl iAn nelsOn ACCOunT MAnAgeR, BARBOuR i’ve got an R.newbold jacket that was one of the first designed by ian Paley, now of garbstore. R.Newbold used to make workwear, prison shirts, uniforms and miners’ pants. The factory went under, and Paul Smith bought it in the mid 90s. When they went to clean out the offices they found all these incredible old patterns. It kickstarted R.Newbold the brand – as a division of Paul Smith. I’ve had the jacket for that amount of time and I’ll never part with it. I absolutely love it. — i’d also have to say my Barbour international original waxed jacket; a version of the one originally designed in 1953. My dad had one in the 50s when he and my uncle raced bikes on dirt tracks, and it was still hanging up in his garage until very recently. He went to take it off the hook and the back of the jacket had stuck to the wall and ripped off because it had gone mouldy. He chucked it in a skip. When I found out I said I could have got it repaired. — My RRl white Oxford shirt is something i always wear. It goes with everything. It’s the male equivalent of a little black dress. I’ve got an RRL one because I got it for cost price off Philip Brown. It should have been around £165. — shoe-wise, my sanders snuff brown suede lace-ups are a timeless classic. I found them for a tenner in a charity shop. Occasionally I buy things that catch my eye to do a bit of trading on eBay, but these I had to keep. They only looked like they’d be worn once. — lastly, my 1969 Big e levi’s denim jacket, made in usA, has to be in my closet. I had it verified that it was an original by a guy who goes by the name of the Swiss Jeans Freak. I found it in a vintage shop in Nottingham, and paid a bargain £38 for it. The guy behind the till didn’t have a clue what they had. —

Hayley MacDonald @HayMacD Started brainstorming for SS15 today! All about the waistcoat for me…no cords pls #menswear Maggie Alderson @MaggieA I like my romance served hot and spontaneous, not according to a marketing schedule. The CBI @CBItweets Did you know the UK fashion industry contributes almost £21bn to economy? CBI Gallant @Gallant_Thame Buying for autumn winter 14 today... #eton and #lagerfeld ...We have a wish list and a budget.... #optimistic MATCHESFASHION.COM @MATCHESFASHION Sir Harold Tillman spotted foot tapping in the front row at @eudonchoi to The Stone's "Satisfaction"...what could be more London! #LFW Warren Beckett @RobotMonsieur Put my jumper on back to front this morning. It wasn't until I put it on the right way round that I realised it was also inside out #Monday Henry Arlington @henryarlington So many ideas last night while I was asleep. Luckily I wrote them all down. Shame I didn't wake up to do it...

SOCIETY THe PARTies And evenTs FROM in And AROund THe MensWeAR indusTRY.





THe essenTiAl guide TO e-COMMeRCe The May edition of MWB will include a dedicated focus on e-commerce, providing retailers with an indispensable guide to e-tailing, tackling topics such as web design, logistics, epos, photography, payments, returns and much more. —

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MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.



sense PRevAils As B&B diTCHes “OPen TO THe PuBliC” PlAn In December, Bread & Butter announced plans to extend the event (from this summer) with two “public days”. It baffled a lot of people, especially brands, which only saw additional costs, more planning and a logistical headache – especially with the Paris shows always back to back with Berlin. The aim was to provide exhibiting brands with “an additional marketing tool to directly address the end consumer, thus the ultimate customer.” In combination with concerts, fashion shows and brand-focused events, an interactive “lifestyle festival” was to be created. Big idea, thankfully not very well received by the majority of brands. Constructive criticism has been adhered to, though, and it will be business as usual with no pesky freebie hunters and Berlin fashion students clutching CVs to deal with. Imagine doing three days on a stand at a trade show and having to put up with all of that?

PHARRell’s HeRe, PHARRell’s THeRe... If you have seen one picture of Pharrell Williams in the media recently, then you’ve seen a hundred more. The American singer-songwriter, rapper, record producer, drummer and fashion designer (who probably plays major league basketball or something in his spare time), first popped up at the Grammys sporting the kind of hat that was destined to grab all of the attention. Especially teamed with a bright red Adidas track top. The Vivienne Westwood Buffalo hat was later auctioned on eBay, with all proceeds to go to his charity for at-risk teens, One Hand to Another. The hat fetched $44,100 and was purchased by famous old American fast-food chain Arby’s, which said the hat resembles its logo. As it happens, it does – decent bit of global marketing that. Not deterred by losing his hat, and clearly still hungry for media attention (though probably full-up on his free Arby’s roast beef sarnie), Williams popped up again at the Oscars to


perform his song Happy in a suspiciously similar hat (Vivienne must have given him a two-for-one deal) – this time teamed with a black Adidas track top. Where was all the Billionaire Boys Club clobber we hear you ask? Well, he’s now teamed up with his old BBC mate – and Japanese fashion icon and creator of A Bathing Ape – Nigo, at none other than Uniqlo. Yes, Uniqlo. Nigo has been hired as creative director for the s/s 14 collection. The range includes a line for Uniqlo’s UT T-shirt brand in collaboration with Williams’ I Am Other creative collective. The products will be sold from mid-April in 14 countries and regions around the world. A new TV commercial for UT is to be released in April and will feature a song from Williams’ new album, Girl. There’s just no stopping him.

COMe sHOP WiTH Me According to a new report by research consultancy Verdict, the global airport retail market is set to rise by 72.9 per cent over the next five years. This will apparently be driven by stronger passenger growth (a 27.4 per cent rise in that period), as well as growing affluence in emerging markets that will boost spend. Verdict

forecasts that Asia Pacific will have the fastest growth in airport retailing sales over the next six years, with the market more than doubling. And, while the weak economy has dampened passenger number growth in Europe and North America over the last five years, growth is set to pick up again as the economy shows signs of improvement. Beauty products and alcohol are set to benefit the most from rising passenger numbers, but once the VAT free booze has been taken care of there’ll no doubt be more than a few lairy holiday shirts snapped up.

PuMA gOes BACk TO THe 90s As the 80s have been done to death, it’s time to travel back to the early 90s – or so it seems, with the relaunch of Puma’s Trinomic XT1 and XT2 running shoes. Apparently when they were first introduced in 1991 – with new running shoe technology as the key focus – they were a real game changer for Puma. Now the tag line is Born on the Track. Back for the Street. That’s pretty good. And with Nike trainer colours getting all the more in-yer-face, the old Puma colour palette – from a time when day-glo and ecstasy were all the rave – should hit the mark.


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lAsT ORdeRs WiTH... HOMMY diAz Hommy diaz, global product line manager for us footwear label Palladium, is a brand ambassador if ever there was one. victoria Jackson caught up with the new York native to discuss the label’s latest collaboation with Alpha industries. — Date of birth: Queens, New York Place of birth: 02/03/1979 Lives now: Los Angeles, California Twitter: @hommydiaz Website:

Tell us about the collaboration with Alpha industries. How did the partnership come about? This partnership has been well worth the wait. Collaborating with Alpha Industries was the first project I pitched to the Palladium executive team upon accepting the position. The Palladium story reminded me of my second job as a teenager that was in retail at an Army and Navy store during the early 90s in Flushing, Queens. While working there I was introduced to the Alpha brand and its history. Through the past decade I have noticed Alpha’s influence on many fashion labels. And during my first week on the job at Palladium I quickly identified that collaborating with Alpha would be a perfect fit due to the parallels of both brands’ history and contributions to militarywear. The goal of the partnership was to create a platform to educate the consumer about the histories between the labels. The product goal was to merge our core heritage pieces. Offering a modern presentation consisting of the authentic satin flight nylon and recognisable colours of the iconic MA-1 jacket applied to our Pampa boot upper pattern. The boots are also complete with the metal zippers from the jacket, primarily as a function to easily remove your boots without unlacing them at the airport when traveling to explore other cities. What other plans do you have for the brand for a/w 14? We have a great update to our Monochrome series with the application of new material combinations to create a nice texture mix. The current offering consists of a double-dyed 12 oz canvas and the next series will consist of military grade ballistic nylon with a tonal nubuck accent and canvas trims. describe the Palladium man for us? Who would you like to see in a pair of Palladiums? Our boots are both functional and versatile, allowing consumers to travel through rough terrain and easily transition into a meeting or evening event while looking and feeling appropriate. The characteristics of our boot have organically attracted the likes of Brad Pitt, who has reinforced the example of the Palladium man. He was recently photographed numerous times wearing a pair of the Khaki Pallabrouse Baggy in two different continents, followed by a pair of allblack Pampa Hi at the Independent Spirit Awards

in Los Angeles. In addition to Brad Pitt, I would like to see Idris Elba wear a pair of our boots. in terms of your personal style, where do you draw inspiration from? I draw inspiration from my day-to-day travel, both locally and abroad. The experience and mix of different cultures are what inspire me. It’s a recipe of style I feed off, having grown up in New York City. Apart from the obvious, which other brands can we find in your wardrobe? What shops would we find you in? When I am in Amsterdam chances are you may run into me at the Denham store. I often wear Japanese selvedge denim from Naked & Famous, as well as its shirts. I like the way Rag & Bone shirts fit me and, as a result, I have lost count of how many I own. What do you do to escape from work? I listen and dance to Bachata music from my parent’s native country, the Dominican Republic. in terms of someone in the public eye, who do you think is on the money style-wise? It’s refreshing to witness NBA players in general embracing a more refined sense of style in the past year. Fashion and style in sports up until a few years ago was not inspiring, and often embarrassing.

quiCk-FiRe quesTiOns — Who is your mentor? One mentor who has never left is my dad. Aside from life itself, I owe my name, style and dignity to him. — What advice would you give to your 16-year-old self? Continue to strive doing what you did yesterday better today. — What can’t you live without? Many would say my iPhone 5, and I would agree because of the music that I put on it. —


Issue 211