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Scoop Preview – page 72

Front cover image JACKET – ALPHA INDUSTRIES 01869 366 850 SWEATSHIRT – RUSSELL ATHLETIC 01923 288 550 • 07


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With the much-publicised high street winners and losers of the Christmas trading period and its frenzied run-up – online and in bricks and mortar – I hope that you as independent retailers have fared much better and have managed to maximise this still hugely important commercial time of the year. Unsurprisingly by now, online once again dominated sales, and from Black Friday through Cyber Monday all the way to Boxing Day, e-commerce once again put in a strong performance. While Boxing Day sales remain a fixture of retail, Christmas Day itself even generated records online, with IMRG reporting a 6.3 per cent uplift on the same day in 2016, reaching £844m. But with online sales also comes the heightened headache of returns, and in particular those parcels that didn’t make it quite in time for the festivities and will inevitably be brought back to store this January. According to latest estimates, failed Christmas deliveries will cause £464.9m of returns in January – add to this the number of general returns or unwanted gifts, and it is clear that this is a huge part of the retail cycle. Of course January is still a key sales month, and most of you will be in the midst of stock clearance and reductions to make way for the new season. With all the pre-Christmas discounting, the emphasis however is noticeably shifting from January sales to a permanent period of offers which now start well before Black Friday, not making keeping profit margins and full price selling any easier. It takes retailers with strong nerves to hold out on their sales periods for as long as possible. Retail is a challenging business – what’s new? And it’s unlikely to get any easier in 2018. But it’s definitely not all doom and gloom. Unlike their high street counterparts, independents are in the unique position to be more reactive, agile and flexible to be able to react to trading conditions, and in many ways are more in control of their fortunes. As always, product, personal services and a positive customer experience are key and, as we enter the new season, this is the time to make it count and to get out and about to shows, showrooms and buying appointments to find those labels to help you stand out. On that note, we have once again compiled our comprehensive guide to the season, bringing you the key labels, looks and trends of a/w 18. And – hopefully you will have noticed – we have also given WWB a little facelift, which I very much hope you like.

Isabella Griffiths, Editor

Editor: Isabella Griffiths - Contributors: Laura Turner -; Christina Williams -; Victoria Jackson - Design & production: Michael Podger -; Clive Holloway -; James Lindley -; Richard Boyle - Sales manager: Sam Chambers - Sales executive: Michele Ali - Editorial director: Gill Brabham -; Portfolio director: Nick Cook -; Marketing director: Stephanie Parker - Reprographics & printing: ImageData Group 01482 652323


WWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group PLC company WWB is published 6 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2018 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. • 09

wwb news

News round-up Consumers’ top gripes with UK delivery New research from Mintel has revealed that as many as 62 per cent of those who use delivery most frequently have experienced a delivery issue. The study revealed that a longer than estimated wait for delivery of products (30 per cent) tops delivery users frustrations. This is followed by being unable to schedule a delivery for a convenient time (20 per cent), deliveries being left in unsafe areas (18 per cent) and damage to the content or packaging (17 per cent). Meanwhile, receiving incorrect products (12 per cent) and difficulty arranging a redelivery (12 per cent) complete the nation’s top five delivery issues. Further down the list, almost 1 in 10 (8 per cent) of those who use delivery most often say they have had a problem with unhelpful delivery personnel. But it isn’t just delivery that is causing consumer angst, collection is also proving a cause for concern. Some 38 per cent of Brits who have collected a product in the last 12 months have experienced a problem, with long queues (20 per cent), unhelpful staff (12 per cent) and out-of-stock products (10 per cent) Canadian womenswear brand Joseph among the most common problems. Ribkoff has announced the appointment When asked which newer innovations in of John Gunn as its new CEO. Outgoing the delivery and collection market consumers CEO John Ferraro will remain active in would like to see become more widespread, the company, both as a manager and evening home delivery (43 per cent) tops the partner, and will take on the more creative wish lists. While GPS tracking of orders (35 role of executive vice president, design and per cent) and one-hour delivery slots (33 per product development. At Joseph Ribkoff ’s cent) complete the top three innovation since 1993, including the last seven years interests. as CEO, Ferraro has helped the brand achieve today’s success, expanding into MEADOWHALL COMPLETES more than 64 international markets, £60M REFURBISHMENT modernising and adapting it to new platforms, and reaching double-digit British Land, joint owner of Meadowhall, one annual growth figures. of the UK’s largest shopping destinations, has John Gunn arrives at Joseph Ribkoff completed its £60m refurbishment of the from Bentley, where he was CEO and centre. This marks the end of a two-year president since November 2013. He programme, during which £40m was also oversaw the development and invested in store upgrades by more than 70 implementation of the company’s longbrands, including existing and new additions term and short-term strategy and to Meadowhall’s line-up. Highlights of the objectives, as well as managed all of the refurbishment include the creation of four company’s operations and resources. districts, each with a distinctive character and Previously, he held several senior offer, columns and bulkheads have been management positions in Canada and reduced or removed creating lighter, brighter the United States, including as president malls, with new glazing, improved lighting of Esprit Americas, Mexx and executive and new customer seating added. New brands vice president at Tommy Hilfiger. added to the portfolio include Joe Browns, Diesel, Jack Wills, Flannels and Urban Decay.


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JACKET REQUIRED ANNOUNCE PARTNERSHIP WITH TROUVA Jacket Required will partner with online platform Trouva for its January 2018 edition. Trouva, the marketplace for independent stores, currently brings together more than 350 selected boutiques across 119 towns and cities online. The platform sources unique fashion and lifestyle goods from its network of shops, enabling customers to shop and discover over 80,000 design-led products at the click of a button. Having recently celebrated its second birthday, Trouva now looks to welcome further selected boutiques into its community, and will team up with Jacket Required to present the platform to key fashion retailers at the upcoming autumn/winter edition.

WO M A N 18–20 February 2018 NEC Birmingham

Apply to exhibit or register for your ticket at

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SAND RE-ENTERS UK MARKET FOR A/W 18 Danish premium brand Sand is relaunching to the UK for a/w 18 after a period of absence. The brand will be represented by London-based Oldstrom Agency, whose portfolio also includes By Malina, Dea Kudibal and Campomaggi. Before pulling out of the UK due to inconsistencies in distribution, the brand had around 75 accounts. The strategy is to reconnect with long-term boutique partners as well as grow the brand through new stockists, with the brand showing at this month’s edition of Scoop. Sand offers cool and sensual fashion with elegant, sculptural silhouettes and feminine detailing, while the a/w 2018 collection has a strong 60s and 70s vibe.

Harrods to undergo major redevelopment

British lifestyle brand Joules has released its latest trading update, covering the 26week period to 26 November 2017, the first half of the group’s 2018 financial year. Group revenue for the period increased by 18.2 per cent (17.5 per cent in constant currency) to £96.2m (H1 FY17: £81.4m), reflecting the brand’s expansion and growing customer base, which is now at more than one million active customers, and the strong performance of both new and core collections. Retail revenue increased by 16.2 per cent to £65.9m (H1 FY17: £56.7m), driven by good growth across both stores and e-commerce. The group increased its retail store presence in line with plans, with the opening of a net 10 new stores across its different store formats during the period. Wholesale revenue increased in line with expectations by 23 per cent (20.6 per cent in constant currency) to £30.1m (H1 FY17: £24.5m), reflecting the previously reported good growth in the a/w 17 wholesale order book. The brand has also continued to expand in its target international markets, with gross margin in the period anticipated to be in line with the first half of the prior year.

Harrods is embarking on the most ambitious store development project in its 180-year history. The three-year project will see Harrods make investments of £200m, redesigning the store around the shopping requirements of its customers. With luxury trends being increasingly driven by demand for destination retail experiences, Harrods is making substantial investments over its 1,000,000 sq ft Knightsbridge site. This began with the recent opening of the first stage of the redevelopment of the Grade II* listed Food Halls, continuing with the opening of the expanded Fine Watch Room in spring 2018. Further investments through to 2020 will include the dedication of an entire floor to Menswear and Sports, an evolution of the Harrods Home department, and a large-scale expansion and investment in the Harrods Beauty Hall, which will encompass space across two floors of the store. “As the UK’s most famous department store, Harrods is London’s shopfront to the rest of the world,” says Michael Ward, managing director of Harrods. “This ambitious store development, the most comprehensive in Harrods history, will invest in some of our most exciting retail divisions and redesign our store around the expectations of our discerning global customer base.” Harrods recently accounted another record year of sales and profits, with the business experiencing strong growth and total sales of over £2bn for the first time.

DUTCH INVESTOR BUYS GERMAN BRAND GARDEUR Dutch investor Duijndam Group has acquired German brand Gardeur, securing the future of the trouser specialist, which filed for insolvency in October. The family-run group will take over the helm at the Gardeur Group, with the aim of stabilising supply in the short term and reposition and expand Gardeur as the leading German trouser brand on national and international markets in the medium term. Established in 1982 by Steef Duijndam in Rotterdam, the Duijndam Group has been an international player in the retail, sports and textiles sectors for over 30 years. After selling his multinational equestrian sportswear company, Steef Duijndam developed such brands as HV Polo, HV Society, Imperial Riding and Easy Rider. The company has made the decision to terminate the production of its premium brand, Thomas Rath, and instead focus on its core segment with the Atelier Gardeur brand.

MCARTHURGLEN ANNOUNCES £160M JOINT VENTURE Designer outlet group McArthurGlen Group has announced a joint venture with U+I, Rioja Developments Limited and Aviva Investors on behalf of Aviva Life and Pensions and The Richardson Family to develop a new designer outlet in Cannock, 30 minutes from Birmingham, the UK’s largest regional city. The creation of the joint venture will see a combined investment of more than £160 million in the project, with the development spanning 26,500 sq m of GLA across two phases, including improvements to the road infrastructure. The project will be developed and built by McArthurGlen, U+I and Rioja Developments and, once it is completed, McArthurGlen will manage the centre.


Artwork: © 2017 Ratti S.p.A. - P. I.V.A.




DRIVING BUSINESS TO YOU We truly value our customers. That’s why we made the conscious decision not to sell on-line through our own website. You, our customers, are our main focus and our only outlet for each new collection. When we receive a sales enquiry from our website or social media, we will ALWAYS direct the customer to the nearest Marble stockist.

FREE POINT OF SALE To support each collection, we supply professionally designed Point of Sale materials free of charge to keep your in-store merchandising feeling fresh and new.

NATURAL FIBRES Most of today’s Marble collection is made from 100% cotton or a mix of natural fibres. We only use the most luxurious, breathable fabrics that are easy to care for and feel soft and gentle on your skin.

FREEDOM We have no set delivery programmes. We can also spread your deliveries throughout the season, keeping your stock fresh - and allowing you to spread the costs too.




+ 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 4 1 8 8 2 6 74 3 I N F O @ M A R B L E FA S H I O N S . C O . U K W W W. M A R B L E FA S H I O N S . C O . U K

wwb people

Your views on the issues shaping the industry.

Strong partnerships will define trading in 2018

Talking Point

NICK WILLIAMS Managing director of Marble Fashion l The turn of a new year is the perfect time to reflect on past achievements and challenges. As we are gearing up for 2018 and another new season, we look back at last year very positively, and I am pleased to say that our successes certainly outweighed any challenges. We have been delighted with the feedback from customers reporting that the sell through of Marble collections has been exceptional, especially in the UK and Ireland, where our turnover increased significantly, which is very encouraging, especially in our most established market. We also managed to open over 300 new accounts worldwide, which is no mean feat. Our biggest challenge has been to resist the temptation to sell direct to the public online, against all the “best business advice”, but we feel that our customers have appreciated our stance. We have also increased our offering of our free point-of-sale material and introduced a marketing log in section to our website, where customers have access to a photo bank of every style in every colour, professionally photographed, to use in any advertising or social media platform they want. We have also employed a business marketing graduate, dedicated to directing any enquiries we receive from the public (currently 50-60 per week) to their nearest Marble stockist. This has been universally welcomed by our customers – we have had numerous “thank yous” from grateful customers who have made sales on the strength of the recommendation. I believe in today’s tough trading environment, it’s these kinds of real partnerships that matter, and we try to support our customers wherever possible. Overall, I feel very positive about the year ahead. Our s/s 18 sales are well up on s/s 17 and we are just launching an exciting a/w 18 collection. But we take nothing for granted. ‘You are only as good as your last season’, is a very true saying, but the samples and colours are looking great, so we are feeling confident as well as hopeful. This year, I want to keep moving forward without losing sight of our core business. I’ve seen many businesses over the years try to change too quickly and lose touch with their customer base. And of course, we want to increase our customer base internationally. We are becoming more established in France, Germany, USA and Canada, so hopefully the brand will grow like it has in the UK and Ireland.

It’s a new dawn, a new day and we’re feeling good...

ADELE BLACK Creative Director, Latte Clothing l Oh my word, it’s that time of year again. Our showrooms are currently buzzing with all the excitement and razzmatazz of not just a new season but also a new year. Bring on the launch of Latte a/w 18, the delivery of s/s 18 production, team members gleefully brandishing our latest media campaign, sales and marketing meetings, press releases, you name it, the list is endless. Organised chaos, rails of new samples flying through the showrooms, long hours, far from glamorous hard graft, goodbye social life, yet I absolutely love it. How blessed I feel to be in an industry which gives those prophesying doom and gloom a wide berth. It doesn’t really matter if you are pro or anti Brexit or to what extent you like or dislike Trump, we at Latte HQ are only focused on dressing the nation and dressing them with style. Having spent the last two months in Italy designing Latte a/w 18 (ok, it’s not horrible working there), I couldn’t help but notice a new wave in retailers. Many of the fashion boutiques in and around Florence have adopted a lifestyle concept with a very relaxed vibe. Make no mistake though, they are shamelessly ruthless in the way they trade. From the second you walk in store, I was being offered food, drink, discounts, free gifts, as well as invitations to some very appealing evening events. The freebies were, I reckon, costing less than ¤5, but the gift itself was beautifully presented; raffia tied with cellophane wrapping, company logo and a message of thanks. The events I was being invited to were of a very high standard, including make-up tutorials, TV hair stylists creating the latest looks, trendy caterers doing food demos, in-store and off-site fashion shows compered by local celebs, live bands, radio DJs with one-hour upbeat, feel-good music slots. All were great networking events, as well as being fun and fashion oriented. I decided to follow a few on social media and from the get-go I have been emphatically bombarded with daily images and offers. Far from feeling staff were over pushy, I really enjoyed the customer experience – it was done with such passion and in a very captivating way. It certainly gave me food for thought and I am already using a few of these ideas to enhance the Latte buying experience. So here we go with a new year. Bring it on! And my message for 2018? Be bold, be strong, be passionate and, above all, enjoy what you do.


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2 0 1 8 PA RT N E R S I N FAS H I O N LT D LO N D O N



3 – 5 MAR 1 – 3 SEPT

16a Newman Street London W1T 1PB T 020 7636 4207





Available from 29th Jan - 23rd Feb’18 (including PURE weekend) by appointment only through Apt Collections 0207 580 3202

wwb interview

CARSTEN HOLM Co-founder, Woden

Two years into trading in the UK, sneaker brand Woden is stocked in some of the best boutiques in the country and its star continues to rise season on season. Isabella Griffiths caught up with the brand’s founder to find out what drives the success of the brand.

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wwb interview

Isabella Griffiths: What is the story behind the brand? Carsten Holm: It has always been my ambition to start my own label one day. Working with different labels previously within different companies made me aware of how to find a specific look and direction to target a special part of the market. It was important to me to create something that had solid Scandinavian roots to give the brand a strong identity. Our USP is therefore characterised by putting extra attention into both fashion and sustainability. To frame this, we decided to find a name and concept that told this story. The name WODEN stands for WOrks of DENmark. IG: You use fish leathers for the production of the sneakers. How did you come to use this material, and what are the benefits of this leather? Peter Hildebrandt: We always want to challenge the normal thinking about how sneakers are made. We work intensively on new materials and trends – when we realised it was possible to develop fish leather for sneakers, we decided to take it all the way. We started to work with a small tannery in Iceland that had found the recipe for how fish leather can become usable, and not only fish soup. The development started and we realised it was possible to make an outstanding look with this waste product. We found a material that fits 100 per cent with the core element that we believe describes our brand. Fashion comes first, but we want to make more than just a sneaker. Fish leather looks amazing, is a waste product and is tanned without releasing any CO2. It’s also approximately 10 times stronger than normal leather and has an incredible 3D texture, so there are lots of benefits to the material. IG: Do you use any other materials and leathers? CH: We aim to use natural materials to replace synthetic. For example, our insoles and midsoles are all made of cork, so are not only sustainable, but also extremely comfortable. We also use recycled rubber; approximately 10 per cent of each sole uses this. And of course, full-grain leathers too. IG: Who are your key target customers, both in terms of stores, and on a consumer level? PH: Tier 1 fashion ladies stores are our primary target. In terms of consumers, our customers are typically between 25-35 years of age and would like to have a pair of sneakers that can be used for walking up and down the street, without looking like they are going to the gym. IG: You’ve had phenomenal success in the UK with the range. How important is the UK now for your overall export business? CH: Every market is important to us. There is no doubt that the UK market is known for hard competition, but we are performing

very well. We have had growth every season, and 2018 is going to be a huge year for us. The key is that retailers sell through as this means customers are choosing Woden – our sell through has been amazing. Our biggest challenge is making sure we have the stock for that demand. We have now invested in introducing a huge NOS package which will really support that. I believe that if we can have this kind of success in the UK, there should not be any limitations for other markets for us. IG: How many accounts are you in now and how much more would you like to grow? PH: We sit in around 80 UK stores to date. It’s less about how many can we get into, and more about how we can help our partners grow with Woden. There’s no doubt we will expand our distribution in 2018 if it’s the right ones, but our biggest aim is to make sure we support our space in each store, and show ourselves as a brand. We have just launched an amazing shop-in-shop concept which we will look to implement in the UK throughout 2018 with a handful of key partners. We also aim to have a Woden footwear tower in every stockist’s store. We believe in our brand and want to show the customer more than just a product on a shelf. Since our UK launch two years ago, most buyers we have presented the collection to have bought it. And when the consumer sees Woden, then the sell through is strong. So it’s really about presenting our brand and standing out in store. IG: Can you list a few key accounts and which brands does WODEN sit alongside in these stores? PH: We are working with so many beautiful retailers across the UK and Ireland. A few examples would be the likes of Accent, Bias, Javelin, Psyche, The Dressing Room and Rio & Brazil, but all our customers are brilliant retailers in their own right. In terms of brand adjacencies, it’s quite broad. We sit next to brands such as Candice Cooper, Ash and Mallet, but we aim to be the entry point in those stores. However, in some fashion boutiques we are the only footwear brand they stock. IG: What can we expect from the a/w 18 collection? CH: A winter collection that also includes warm boots. There’s much more variety – our partners are hungry for more Woden options in store now, and with the a/w18 collection we have addressed that with new products and a lot of interesting colour and material combinations. IG: What are your future plans for the brand? CH: We always have interesting products in the pipeline. We just love to make shoes, and have not and will not run out of ideas for many years to come! Watch this space... • 21

wwb fashion

Style FILE A/w 18 is all about wrapping up warm, and few brands do cosy knits as well as Italian cashmere label GENTRY PORTOFINO. The brand celebrates its heritage with elegance and understated creative expression, while constantly moving forward with new techniques. With its subtle colour palette, clean lines and highest quality yarns, it’s set to gain even more fans this season.


Bohemian, whisper-light styles and ethereal silhouettes characterise French resortwear brand BROOCHINI’s collection, which is effortless and directional at the same time. Expect to find earth-friendly fabrics, organic knits and bodynourishing swimwear infused with natural antioxidants, Vitamin E and aloe vera.

Amsterdam footwear brand NUBIK is launching in the UK with its s/s 18 collection, which has taken inspiration from the revival of the 90s. The range features nostalgic detailing on sneakers such as chunky soles, pops of metallic tones and leopard prints.

Innovative footwear brand CARA’s a/w 18 collection evolves yet again with new designs, shapes and finishes, using the finest leathers, suedes and textiles manufactured in Italy and Europe. Predicted best-sellers this season are the Saint & Eastwood, a suede over-the-knee elastic back boot, the Scout, a heeled double zip ankle boot, as well as the Noleta trainer in ghost white. 22 •

The first drop from the highly anticipated CONVERSE X JW ANDERSON collaboration “Glitter_Gutter,” hit stores last month. The unisex collection intentionally dances across the lines of what’s traditionally considered masculine and feminine through bold colours, glam glitter and elevated details across classic Converse styles.


PA RT N E R S I N FAS H I O N LT D LO N D O N 16a Newman Street London W1T 1PB T 020 7636 4207

AUTUMN/WINTER 2018 Available through Apt Collections from Monday 29th January until Friday 23rd February 2018. T: + 44 207 580 3202 E:

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RABE – A reliable retail partner German knitwear brand Rabe enters autumn/winter 18 on a high, building on yet another strong season of unbeatable sell-throughs and commercial success, with above average stock turnover at point of sale.

There are few brands that tick all the right boxes in terms of commerciality and fashion appeal like Rabe does. The German knitwear specialist has been a steadfast performer in retail stores up and down the country, with a/w 17 proving to be yet another strong season for its growing number of UK stockists. Rabe is passionate about offering the highest quality while remaining affordable, and each collection is designed with care and attention to even the smallest of details. Product is key at Rabe, and both wearability and fashion content define each style. The company believes that its knitwear should be enjoyed and worn every day, and be compatible with all women’s lifestyles and occasions. A high degree of innovation goes into every single product, with exclusively developed premium yarns that are high quality, super soft, allergy tested and offer comfort, breathability and wellness, even for sensitive skins. Rabe appeals to a wide variety of women who are young at heart, like fashion, know their style and appreciate quality – women with an active lifestyle who want to wear modern and eye-catching knitwear, whether that’s going out with friends for lunch or coffee, or on a night out. Rabe delivers on that, with modern styling and perfect fit, and with products that are in tune with the seasons.

The emphasis is on vivid and flattering colours, and a/w 18 is no exception, offering another collection of commercial styles that are sure to become best-sellers in store. Rabe’s core competency lies in knitwear and jersey pieces, with the latest range providing vast outfit and styling choices. New this season – and responding to growing customer demand – Rabe is significantly expanding its jacket selection with a focus on exclusive Italian yarns as well as high-quality details and features. Each jacket is fully lined and can be worn casually or dressed up, adding yet another winning element to Rabe’s fashion portfolio. All of this is backed up by great customer service and a competent after sales package centred on reliable, punctual deliveries as well as in-season repeats and stock back-up. It is no surprise that the consistent success of Rabe also applies across the whole group. The company’s entire brand portfolio – including Lecomte, Lucia and Pure by Lucia, as well as Thomas Rabe – are all equally high performers in the UK, with contemporary, feminine knitwear and complementing separates rounding off the overall offer.

Rabe and its sister brands are represented in the UK by Partners in Fashion and will be shown in the central London showroom (Rabe for mainland UK only).


SHOWING DATES: Collection 1: 9 January - 30 January Collection 2: 30 January - 11 March PARTNERS IN FASHION 16a Newman Street, London W1T 1PB Contact: 020 7636 4207 Email: • 25

wwb profile


of Perfecto Schott NYC is to celebrate its famous Perfecto jacket at premium trade show Jacket Required this month, with the a/w 18 collection ringing in a stronger focus on womenswear and unisex styles. Tom Bottomley gets the lowdown.

When it comes to famous jackets, they don’t come much more famous than the Schott Perfecto, as worn by Marlon Brando in The Wild One, and every young rocker and pop star since. From Blondie in the 70s, to Lady Gaga, Rita Ora, Rihanna and Katie Perry now, it’s a classic that has truly lasted the test of time. With biker chic once again at the forefront of fashion, it’s perhaps fitting that this year the brand’s most recognised jacket celebrates its 90th anniversary, with an exhibition at the forthcoming Jacket Required show. The women’s a/w 18 collection will sit next to the men’s, though many styles are considered unisex as women opt to wear larger sizes, especially with the 90s trend now in full swing. Alongside some vintage gems, there will be 50 jackets on show, including some amazing collaborations over the years with the likes of Jeremy Scott, House of Holland, Vetements, Lady Gaga’s Workshop for Barney’s New York and Maje (currently stocked at Selfridges, Matches and Net-a-Porter). Many of the collaborations have sparked interest from celebrity followers, which has been a useful tool for creating greater brand awareness. With the trend for all things 90s, and with the MA-1 jacket everywhere, Schott is now looking to push its unisex Nebraska puffa jacket for a/w 18, as well as its famed CWU jacket. Sometimes referred to as an MA-2, the CWU is the one that looks like an MA-1 with a collar and removable Velcro brand patch on the chest. Back in the mid 90s it was a big hit with women, brought out in a variety of bright colours. Schott UK sales agent, Marcus Harris, from agency Brand National, says: “Back then, shops had to remove the patches from the stock on the rails and give them to customers when they actually purchased the jacket. Such was the popularity, people were actually stealing the patches and then swapping colours about! In a way, the badges were like the fashion

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Pokémon card of the 90s.” Because of that period, although Schott does an MA-1 jacket, and has done for many years, it’s definitely better known for the CWU jacket. Harris says it’s also a slight move on from the MA-1 trend, so the timing is right to bring it firmly back into the spotlight. With logos and bigger branding now prevalent in the fashion arena once again, the Schott Velcro chest patch fits perfectly. Spotting the 90s trend gaining momentum with a younger customer, Harris says they also chose to reintroduce the Nebraska puffa jacket as an express package just before Christmas just gone. “It’s a real oversized 90s puffa style, which actually wasn’t initially included in our a/w 17 collection. We’ve put together an injection collection of it for 10 colours for the current winter season. There’s pink, red, yellow, orange, baby blue and white included. It was a really quick turnaround and we didn’t deliver it to stores until the end of November. Schott has actually just done a big pop-up in Citadium in Paris with it. We will be pushing it in a much bigger way for a/w 18 for women and men.” The women’s collection is currently sold in Liberty London, but with the loose-fitting trend it’s the unisex main collection that women seem to be seeking out more from retailers who’ve been selling the brand for years. “What we’ve been doing over the past few seasons is looking at the main men’s collection, and introducing smaller sizes on some of the key styles for women, as well as putting in some more feminine colours,” explains Harris. “The European fits of the women’s collection come up very small, so we’re finding

wwb profile

that women prefer to buy the men’s jackets. It means we’re offering much more of a unisex package, rather than simply focusing on the women’s collection. As a result, for a/w 17, we actually added some unisex pieces to the offer in Liberty London within the womenswear area of the shop. It’s subsequently had a better response, so we are looking to continue to work with them for a/w 18 and grow the business.” Aside from the classics like the Perfecto jacket, a lot of the products Schott tends to sell in the UK market is also more fashion and trend-driven than perhaps in the rest of Europe and in the home US market. The recent collaborations with other brands, such as Vetements and Maje, have also focused on a women’s offer from a much more fashion-driven perspective. Indeed, when it comes to collaborations and celebrity following, womenswear is very much a focus, despite the brand being more associated with menswear. “Vetements from Paris actually did a whole collaboration collection, whereby they picked what they called the best from each product category,” says Harris. “So, they came to us for the leather jacket, they went to Champion for the sweatshirt, Juicy Couture for the velour tracksuit and so on. They picked every brand that they thought was the ‘hero’ in each field, and put together a whole collection of fantastic pieces. It was about doing it, but very much doing it in a Vetements way – everything was massively oversized for women. For us, it was a challenge to make. We did a Perfecto that’s completely oversized, cut very differently and with an extra long belt. There’s loads of different elements to it that Schott would not normally do.” Another collaboration with designer Jeremy Scott led to Rihanna, Alicia Keys and Rita Ora recently being seen wearing Schott jackets. Jason Schott, the brand’s Chief Operating Officer and a fourth generation of the Schott family to work for the business, says: “We do offer a separate women’s collection, but in the UK we have found more of a demand for unisex styles, because the UK

customer likes to wear things with a boyfriend fit. For this reason, for a/w 18 we are focusing on introducing some new unisex styles into the collection which we believe will hit the mark.” The Schott NYC unisex collection is the most commercial Schott line, with the most competitive price points, as opposed to the higher end Schott NYC Perfecto Brand heritage collection, and the contemporary Schott Limited Edition line. It’s in the main unisex collection that customers can find some of the brand’s most iconic styles from the 90s. The Schott NYC company was actually founded in 1913 by Jason Schott’s great grandfather, Irving, and his brother Jack Schott. It’s a little known fact that Schott NYC was the first company to put a zipper on a jacket. “My great grandfather invented the motorcycle jacket in 1928, and we are very much looking forward to celebrating the 90th Anniversary of the Perfecto motorcycle jacket at Jacket Required.” It couldn’t really be a more fitting name for a trade show putting on an exhibition in honour of one of the world’s most instantly recognisable, and much copied, jackets.

“My great grandfather invented the motorcycle jacket in 1928, and we are very much looking forward to celebrating the 90th Anniversary of the Perfecto motorcycle jacket at Jacket Required.” • 27 0800 612 9009 MODA UK – S40

100% Merino Wool 0800 612 9009 MODA S40 – PURE B111

100% Merino Wool 0800 612 9009 MODA S40 – PURE B111 0800 612 9009 MODA S40 0800 612 9009


Showing at SCOOP, Gallery 8, Saatchi Gallery

Showing from 1st to 23rd February at 2 Stephen Street, London, W1T 1AN For enquiries please call James: 07773 040 697

wwb brand guide

AUTUMN / WINTER 18 THE FASHION EDIT WWB’s comprehensive guide to the trends, brands and key looks that will define the season.

l Fashion News: Page 38 l Brand Guide: Page 44 l City Living: Page 61 l Scoop Preview: Page 72 l Jacket Required: Page 80 l Six Brands to watch at Moda: Page 82

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wwb collection news

fashion news

The new launches, brand developments and products not to miss for a/w 18. Love Brands brings German lifestyle brand s.Oliver to UK market Love Brands has been appointed as the UK distributor (excluding Northern Ireland) for German lifestyle brand s.Oliver and s.Oliver Black Label for both womenswear and menswear, complementing the company’s existing portfolio of 16 brands. Established in 1969, s.Oliver has grown from a small boutique into one of Europe’s leading fashion companies, with an annual turnover of €1.6bn. As a vertical wholesaler, s.Oliver offers 12 drops per year, with monthly deliveries that enable retailers to respond quickly to seasonal changes and trends. s. Oliver’s main label is known for its accessible style and offers a casual, contemporary range that reflects fashion trends, while s.Oliver Black Label represents sophisticated looks for work and special occasions.

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u Balossa makes UK launch through Mr & Mrs P Agency Italian avant garde shirt collection Balossa is making its UK debut through Mr & Mrs P Agency in London. Launched in 2014 and designed by Indra Kaffemanaite, who has also worked for Iceberg and Giambattista Valli, among others, the brand is knowns for its cuts and use of volume, mixing Italian and Japanese styling. The concept behind the label is to dissect the men’s white shirt and transform it into sensual and glamorous silhouettes.

Ivko Woman makes UK debut via Apt Collections Apt Collections has taken on Serbian label Ivko Woman for a/w 18, introducing the collection to the UK market. High-quality materials combined with creative knitting techniques are the signature style of the distinctive label, which produces total looks with a mix of knitwear and woven fabrics. For a/w, the collection centres on nonchalant femininity, with flowing, narrow A-line jacquard coats, knitted sleeves made of soft doubleface and with modern floral inlay patterns, sweater styles, oversize polo-necks, asymmetrical skirts and casual, feminine dresses key. The collection is made up of three design capsules, each with its own clear inspiration and colour palette, including ‘Trendy Florals’ featuring romantic blooms, ‘Persian Architecture’, creating an oriental feel, and ‘Fon People’ combining graphic patterns and colour blocking with rudimentary animal drawings inspired by the world of the Fon people of West Africa.

wwb collection news

Frank Walder launches Moments collection German brand Frank Walder is launching Frank Walder Moments for a/w 18, an event and occasionwear line developed specifically for the 50+ customer. This high-quality and more premium-priced range will be offered in addition to the brand’s two main collections, with four colour themes each. It consists of an event capsule with a focus on dresses and all-in-ones, as well as a never-out-of-stock selection catering to the modern business woman and special occasions. Classic styles such as two-button blazers, pencil skirts and trouser suits are interpreted in a modern and elaborate way. The fashionable twist comes with back pleating on jackets, sequinned collars, beaded bands, bell sleeves, bows and piping. The colours offered are classic: black, ink, ecru and white. The feminine occasion capsule will be delivered in August 2018. Almost all styles will be available in sizes 10 to 26.

u New UK launch for a/w 18, Relaxed by Toni combines fit, comfort, freedom of movement and fabrics of the highest quality. The focus this season is on slim silhouettes, featuring power stretch and elaborate embroidery and appliqués. Floral patterns, checks, touches of lurex and a range of structures make the collection particularly diverse and elegant. There is also a selection of pullovers, cardigans and blouses, ideal to go with their trousers.


TCA Showroom expands with host of new labels London fashion agency TCA Showroom has expanded its brand stable with four new labels. Italian brand Goa Goa was established in 2011 and offers a line based on current fashion trends. It is known for contemporary prints as well as original textured fabrics, offering real urban style. Easy and chic is the philosophy of fellow Italian brand Fracomina, designed for women who are looking for trendy fashion creations based on the trends of the season, but at commercial price points. Denim Hunter, meanwhile, is part of DK Company, and offers a full ready-to-wear collection in addition to jeans and trousers. The new additions are rounded off with the arrival of Cristina Gavioli, which also offers a total look collection with an emphasis on wovens and knitwear. • 39

wwb collection news

New showroom location and brand additions for Joanna Edwards Agency

Due to customer requests, more luxurious coats have been added to Eugen Klein’s a/w 18 collection, along with more reversible favourites. A larger variety of plain and patterned trousers in various fits is also available for the season ahead. The brand offers a complete coordinated collection of daywear, smart suiting, stand-out solo pieces and outerwear in contemporary colours and seasonal fabrics.

Four new labels join Parkers Agency Fashion agency Parkers has taken on four new labels for a/w 18. Due Amati is a coordinates collection from Belgium, featuring feminine knitwear, elegant dresses and jackets at affordable prices. Knitwear with appliqué details, dresses in prints and plain with lace trims, velvet jackets and soft tops for partywear take centre stage in this season’s collection. Donatella de Paoli is an Italian collection offering elegant knitwear coordinated with soft tops, dresses and colourful prints. Commercially priced, neutral colours dominate in the collection, while knitted coats with fur trims, tunics and twin sets are among the predicted bestsellers. Louis and Mia, meanwhile, is the sister collection to the very successful brand Just White. The collection centres on dresses, sophisticated blouses in exclusive prints, silks and crisp white cottons. Finally, Zaubermasche also joins the Parkers portfolio following a soft launch, with the brand offering printed cashmere mix knitwear with floral designs, appliqué details and diamanté trims.

u 40 •

Joanna Edwards Agency has extended its brand portfolio for a/w 18 with the addition of three new labels, Cigdem Aiken, RI2K and Jianhui London. Cigdem Aiken hails from Turkey and is edgy yet feminine, with the winter collection featuring velvet and JIANHUI satin trousers as well as show-stopping coats. The collections are versatile and take the wearer from a day event to a cocktail party, wedding or the races. As a predominantly separates collection, sumptuous tops can also be worn with jeans and delicate skirts with a cashmere sweater. RI2K London is a renowned brand of 100 per cent leather handbags at affordable prices, while Jianhui London offers contemporary accessories created in London by the eponymous designer. Worn by fashion icon Iris Appfler, among others, and praised by Elio Fiorucci and the editor of Elle Canada, Jianhui provides an array of accessories – scarves with wooden beading in vast colour varieties, luxurious heavily beaded ‘pashminas’ and multi-strand necklaces with glass, wooden or semi-precious beads made from recycled and sustainable materials. The brands will be available at the agency’s new location at 46 Great Titchfield Street, London, W1W, sharing a space with Janet Thurston Agency this season.

Image collection Spring 2018

Contact - Apt Collections Ltd. | + 44 207 580 3202 |

wwb collection news


Georgedé of Paris’s new a/w 18 collection offers effortless glamour with statement pieces that are flattering and functional. Knitted jersey, lace, velvet and chiffon are used to create feminine and flattering silhouettes that work for most occasions. The range is available in sizes 10 to 28.

Commercial design fuels success at Concept K Outerwear brand Concept K is building on successful trading with a refined aesthetic and the introduction of more feminine and lifestyle silhouettes. The brand has adapted an ‘ageless’ approach and offers a strong compromise between design-led styles and affordable prices, incorporating key international catwalk trends and looks into each collection. The a/w 18 range provides a mixture of traditional and classic styles with new outfit choices which create a versatile wardrobe, appealing to a wide range of customers and lifestyles.

High end looks take centre stage at Picadilly Canadian womenswear brand Picadilly is introducing a special collection of transitional pieces called Denim Days for a/w 18, blending minimalist design with abstract patterns, as well as sheer fabrics contrasted against bold denim pieces. The collection continues to deliver high-end looks centred on contemporary prints, soft fabrics and statement trousers. Nonchalant lighter garments include satin looks, embroidery and lace overlays, while mid to heavyweight pieces are crafted from luxurious velvet, faux suede and knitted pointe. Cuts continue to flatter and feature block-out waist panels, hip-skimming princess cuts and longer length shirts.

42 • Chantelle Wilkinson Finches Agency Syd Brook Lane Mawdesley L40 2RD T. 01704 823 005

wwb brand guide


Modern heritage A/w 18 sees a return of heritage and country-inspired chic, but don’t be fooled – this is not a dowdy look. Instead, there’s a new modernity leading the way.

Harris tweed, plaids, checks, tartans and houndstooth are the heroes of this style direction, but far from classic country looks, this is a 2018 take on the trend. Brands such as B Young, Kaffee and Riani have given the iconic trouser suit look a makeover, with modern silhouettes key. The first two contrasts slim, cropped trousers against a masculine blazer and cheeky ankle boots and brogues, while the latter combines a tailored suit with another big trend of the season, sports luxe, teaming it with a cashmere cardigan and pussy-bow blouse for maximum style points. Luisa Cerano favours an unusual fashion-mix which combines heritage with street style deluxe, based around checks in macro and micro looks, flanked by rich winter brights. Cinque, meanwhile, uses heritage checks such as Oxford and Glencheck, contrasted against delicate fabrics such as silks and chiffons to create a directional outfit choice. Over at Marc Cain, the looks are sophisticated and minimalist, but just as effective, with straight lines creating the perfect backdrop for quality wool fibres that embody a/w 18. Marc Aurel, on the other hand, experiments with juxtaposing lines, combining a crisp, perfectly tailored blouse with statement sleeves with wide palazzo pants, which balance the shape of the look and flatter most figures. Joules, meanwhile, gives a new lease to the classic tweed blazer, epitomising the ‘modern-country-goes-casual’ vibe of the season.



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wwb brand guide




Look out for: Checks, tweeds and herringbone / Trouser suits with modern silhouettes / Style juxtapositions / Textures



wwb brand guide


50 shades of red Raspberry, strawberry, tomato, red wine, red hot chilli pepper, Red in all its shades and burgundy, oxblood and more are just some of the colour guises is the accent colour of references that have defined the collection reports for a/w 18. Red in all its guises – and quite often in combination with other the season, dominating key shades of red or even pinks, oranges, corals and purples – is the autumn/winter looks. central colour that is popping up for a/w 18, providing some much-needed brights in what is otherwise a very muted season, where once again blacks, greys and other dark neutrals dominate. Among the most eye-catching looks is the kind of head-to-toe outfit in fresh raspberry and tomato reds, as shown at Marc Cain and FTC Cashmere – a definite head-turner and a confident, impactful style statement indeed. If this look is too dramatic, then tone it down by combining a central red piece with more neutral items, but which are style statements in themselves, for instance an oversized, masculine coat, cocoon cardigan or blazer. Cinque and Marc Aurel are prime examples of this. The classic red and black combination remains a key style feature, however, and hero pieces stay focused on tops and tunics such as seen at Foil and Thought, or prominent sweatshirt, hoodies and knits like at Marc Aurel. This season, shades of red also creep into outerwear, making a fresh base for long coats and XXL cardigans and coatigans, as perfectly demonstrated at Israeli brand Alembika, Cinque and Danish brand Kaffee, whose mix of red jacket as a highlight, pink jumper underneath and relaxed denim is a winning combination. What this trend demonstrates is that, even in winter, there’s space to be adventurous, and to have fun with different styling – whether that’s as quirky accents or going the whole style hog, red is certainly a colour to embrace this season and helps any outfit stand out.



46 •


wwb brand guide


Look out for: Red accent colours / Head-totoe looks / Combinations with pink, orange and purple / Statement styles




l KAFFEE • 47

ALL GODSKE BRANDS SHOWING AT THE FOLLOWING VENUES The Gallery Dusseldorf – Fashion House 2, 2nd Floor - Room 2C - 202, 23rd Jan to 30th Jan 2018 CIFF Copenhagen – Bella Centre – B3 – 241, 31st Jan to 2nd Feb 2018 Pure Exhibition Olympia, Stand Nos C123 – C130 and C131, 11th Feb to 13th Feb 2018 London Showroom also open Sat 10th Feb and Sun 11th Feb 2018 - WEEKEND OF PURE Moda UK – NEC Birmingham Hall 20 – Stand Nos U41 and U51, 18th Feb to 20th Feb 2018 Dublin Showroom Weekend, 25th Feb to 27th Feb 2018

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: Great Titchfield House, 14/18 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8BD. Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email:

DUBLIN SHOWROOM 1: Godske Group Ireland, Niall Scanlan, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24. Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

wwb brand guide


Midi Skirts This season’s must-have item is the midi skirt, with key looks ranging from relaxed through retro to romantic.

Category-driven products have been among boutique best-sellers for a while now, but it’s been mainly trousers with quirky prints and a wealth of materials that have dominated the last few seasons. However, for a/w 18, the midi skirt is well and truly taking over. The same principles apply though, with quirky designs that make the skirt the hero piece of the outfit. Marc Cain uses a strong and accentuated play of colour to highlight its midi skirts against neutral, oversized jumpers – a look which is also referenced in Cinque’s collection, which goes more down the 70s route with fitted roll-neck jumpers and asymmetric skirt cuts as a winning combination. Floral prints are the dominating feature here, whether in the form of winter brights or in a more muted guise, as seen over at Latte, Thought or Luisa Cerano. The latter is adding a new dimension to the look but toughening it up with a belted long leather jacket and boots. Latte is also juxtaposing the feminine appeal of a midi skirt with the chic styling of brogues, for a sophisticated and elegant, yet relaxed look. This is offset against the ultra-feminine and playful direction of Thought, which puts the classic pleated A-line skirt into the spotlight, with a floral design that is contrasted against the delicate stripes of the romantic blouse – a gentle style break that simply works. Riani’s more tailored look, meanwhile, challenges the definition of the denim skirt, playing with volume and shape. The combination with a crisp, white, collarless shirt provides a fresh take on simple silhouettes and is another key look of the season. Meanwhile, over at Naya, the pencil skirts also gets the midi treatment, with another prime example of successfully breaking the style rules by clashing a smart skirt with a casual hoodie and on-trend sneakers. Pure by Lucia keeps it classic and minimalist, pairing a statement knit with a chic grey skirt and proving once more the flattering properties of this season’s midi.



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wwb brand guide




Look out for: Asymmetric cuts / A-lines / Pleats / Florals / Playful contrast of shapes and textures


l RIANI • 51

wwb brand guide


Statement knits High-end cashmere brands first introduced quirky logos, slogans and Sweaters, jumpers, hoodies, embroidery into their collections, paving the way for the humble sweater coatigans or ponchos – a/w 18 to become a massive fashion hit. Cashmere brands may still be driving the trend – check out Absolute Cashmere, for instance - but it has now also abundant with knitwear that trickled into the mainstream, with other knitwear specialists and brands deserves to be in the fashion offering their own versions of the statement knit. Cute slogans and motifs spotlight. appear in collections such as Faber, which has also introduced a bigger selection of cashmere blends this season. Key style features in the collection include intersected dots as intarsia, structure waves, block stripes with sparkling stripes, lace as appliqué and velvet ribbons pulled through knitted styles. The latter style details is also referenced over at Jasi & Co. Block stripes are also a key style ingredient, especially when used on oversized knits such as at Cinque, which earns extra brownie points for cosy comfort while still looking effortless, or over at Monari, whose lead trend themes this season include athleisure and utility. The collection also includes long knitted cardigans, mirror intarsia knits, cardigans and jumpers with drawstring details. Marble, meanwhile, also once again offers an array of trend-led and commercial knits, with the season’s highlight pieces centred on elegant ponchos, which are a style statement in their own right. The brand has introduced an even stronger focus on natural fibres, which are not only kind to the skin, but also easy to care for. Elsewhere, Crea Concept demonstrates how to effortlessly pull off a relaxed, oversized coatigan, while Sahara is offering an expanded knitwear range this season, with luxurious mixed yarns and understated but elegant silhouettes key.



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wwb brand guide


Look out for: Intarsias / Appliqués / Slogans / XXL shapes / Cashmere and luxurious fibre blends




l MARBLE • 53

wwb brand guide


Sports luxe Inspired by the unstoppable athleisure trend, sports luxe is another strong fashion theme that will be dominating a/w 18.

While it may be borrowing many of the attributes of athleisure, sports luxe continues to gain momentum as a go-to look that is more elegant, more premium and altogether more suited to daywear and the office. But many of the key elements still apply – sweatshirts, slouchy pants and hoodies and relaxed jersey pants are key, seen in collections such as Just White, which embraces the look with casual hooded cardigans which are among the big focal points of the collection. Go faster stripes are the eye-catching details on the outside hem – and while they won’t actually make you run faster, they certainly add style kudos, especially when clashed with killer heels or masculine brogues, as Luisa Cerano and Marc Aurel demonstrate. Riani, meanwhile, demonstrates the deluxe version of a contemporary hoodie, while Mac goes down the sporty route with mock sweat pants which have been upgraded with a lace border, elevating the whole look from plain casual to edgy and fun. Red remains a popular accent colour in this look, while black and khakis reinforce the utilitarian elements.



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For clothes that mean more. That add to the story of our lives. VIEW THE COLLECTION GALLERY DÃœSSELDORF 27 - 29 January 2018 INDX 6 - 8 February 2018 PURE LONDON 11 - 13 February 2018 MODA NEC 18 - 20 February 2018

T: +44 (0) 20 7483 8438 E: W:

wwb brand guide


Rich Velvet Fashion’s love affair with velvet continues into a/w Nothing screams opulence like velvet 18, having already been a leading trend for the does, and autumn/winter is the current winter season. However, novelty comes from even more adventurous uses of the luxurious perfect season to add this lavish fabric, proving that it is not just perfect for texture to key looks, proving that it evening and occasionwear. Luisa Cerano provides works for both work and play. a perfect style lesson in how to pull off a velvet shirt to perfection, while Latte and Mac demonstrate that velvet trousers can score real style points, too, whether that’s as chic and trendy skinnies or on the opposite of the scale, 70s inspired flares. B Young, meanwhile, puts a completely different spin on the trend and gives the traditional leather biker jacket a velvet make-over, which looks eye-catching and uber cool. Over at Goa Goa, however, velvet receives the head-to-toe treatment with an ultra-feminine jumpsuit which is sure to make heads turn. The must-have colour of the season is arguably burgundy, too, a perfect shade to bring out the best of the velvet trend, which looks set to be around for a while yet thanks to its rich and tactile properties which elevate every outfit into a bit of luxury.




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Email: Tel: 01260 226 588

wwb brand guide


Great outdoors The quilted puffa coat and jacket is heading for the spotlight this season, with a huge variety of styles and guises available, from classic hooded jackets to fulllength coats to futuristic metallic versions.

Autumn/winter is without a shadow of a doubt the most important season for outerwear, and a/w 18 doesn’t disappoint. But among the sheer wealth of outerwear styles that are available, there is one key trend that is emerging as the strongest – the renaissance of the puffa jacket and coat. Lightweight and filled with ultra-warm down, the puffa style is perfect whether it comes in a sporty and casual form or more elegant and dressy. Dutch brand Co.Exist opts for the classic long parka style with functional – and decorative – hood, a look which also appears at Marc Cain, but with a more streamlined, minimalist and a bit more chic look, while the former is perfect for country walks and winter fun. Cinque, James Lakeland and Goa Goa give the puffa style a designer edge with oversized silhouettes and asymmetric lines that add eye-catching detail, including cute collars. German outerwear brand Kirsten uses modern prints on a range of casual short puffa jackets, while Faber offers a different look altogether with a blend between biker-shape and blazer in metallic tones, which are also super on trend. Fellow German brand Schneiders also embraces the look, with a chunky hooded puffa coat with fur lining and collar for added warmth, cosyness, and of course, style credentials. Meanwhile, Gerry Weber experiments with different fabric mixes with velvet middle and sleeves, not only referencing another key feature of the season, but also creating interest and tactile elements to a classic look, giving it added value and a seasonal edge. Muted tones dominate throughout outerwear this season, with black and midnight blue still among the most popular colour choices, while burgundy and ochre browns also feature. On the other end of the scale, warm neutrals such as light, silvery grey, white and metallics form a brighter while still understated contrast to the winter palette.



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wwb brand guide




Look out for: Futuristic metallics / Novelty silhouettes / Hooded styles / Oversized lines


l FABER • 59



T: +44(0)1555 662241


Womenswear continues its love affair with athleisure this season, as a strong mix of both new and heritage labels present sportswear, emblazoned logos and vivid prints.

Body – Ellesse, £28, 01905 427 969 Cropped jacket – Ellesse, £50, 01905 427 969 Trousers – Kaffe, price on request, 020 3432 6385 Pumps – Converse, price on request, 020 3514 2048 Jewellery – Stylist’s own

Dress – Rain £129 07970 645151

Bomber jacket – Alpha Industries, price on request, 01869 366 850 Sweatshirt – Russell Athletic, price on request, 01923 288 550 Jeans – Denim Merchant, £32.10, 020 3432 6385 Jewellery – Stylist’s own

Zip-up hooded top – O’Neill, £27.50, 01243 673666 Sweater dress – Helly Hansen, £41.85, 0115 979 5997 Leggings – Pure Lime, £25, 01697 742 711

Jumper – Fila, price on request, 01923 288 542

Parka – O’Neill, £77.10, 01243 673666 T-shirt – Stylist’s own Leggings – Ellesse, price on request, 01905 427 969

Jacket – O’Neill, £64.60, 01243 673666 Jumper – Alpha Industries, price on request, 01869 366 850 Jeans – Denim Merchant, £32.10, 020 3432 6385

Zip-up top – Bench, price on request, Leggings – Marc Cain, price on request, 020 7436 0705 Backpack – Silvian Heach, price on request, 020 3432 6385

Top – Kaffe, £20.30, 020 3432 6385 Jogging bottoms – Bench, price on request,

Photographer: Richard Boyle Makeup artist: Lauren Rippin • Stylist: Victoria Jackson Model: Lydia Chitham

wwb scoop preview


WWB takes its pick of the brands not to miss at the next edition of the exclusive boutique show, which brings together the cream of independent labels, niche designers, high-profile brands and international names.

01 Anonyme Italian brand Anonyme is a versatile collection divided into four lines which are complementary yet distinct, and can be bought separately or together. ‘Unique’ represents the most sophisticated, fashionable and exclusive programme of the collection; it’s the black label equivalent offering a tight edit of items using silks and embossed fabrics. ‘Roma’ highlights the Italian heritage and romantic elegance of fashion, with femininity as its defining characteristic. ‘Anonyme’ is the most informal line and delivers a more playful element to the collection, while ‘Pure’ is a complementary collection of clean lines, solid colours and bold prints.

04 Whyci The Whyci collection is built from expert knowledge of raw materials, with silk, wool, cashmere, linen and cotton regularly mixed to find ever-new combinations that make each garment unique. The weight, texture and feel of the yarns are the source of inspiration for creations that are enriched time and time again with new details such as prints and embroideries, while the styling encapsulates timeless class and natural elegance with appeal for every occasion.

02 Lucille Lucille offers a new grunge, with collections cleverly and skillfully reinvented and contaminated by traits that are a little punk but also very glam. It’s a new frontier of luxury, with an unconventional look that references romanticism as well as Bohemia, but culminates in a sophisticated and yet edgy cool style direction that is like no other.


03 Celeste Mogador Niche designer brand Celeste Mogador specialises in the application of embroidery inspired by Breton tradition, native to the designer. The collection is versatile and distinct, offering capsules of luxury ready-to-wear, unique jewellery, accessories as well as cement tiles, which all have the unique style traits of embroidery at the core.

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wwb scoop preview

05 Dea Kudibal The brand Dea Kudibal was founded in 2003 with a collection of exclusive scarves and shawls made from vintage fabrics. The range was later extended in 2008 to include a clothing line with feminine prints, playful colours and flattering silhouettes at the centre of its DNA. Stretch silk has now become a signature of the brand, combining the luxury of the quality with great durability. Each season, new unique and exclusive prints are designed which form the basis for feminine and elegant collections.


06 Sophie Schnoor Danish brand Sophie Schnoor is making its first appearance at Scoop this season, with a collection that is aimed at the fashionable, modern woman who wants to express her individuality. Each collection is developed and designed by the eponymous designer herself and therefore expresses her distinctive and original style. Launched in Denmark in 2001, initially as a footwear brand, clothing was added in 2010. The brand has grown hugely in its home market and beyond.

03 05 04

06 • 73

wwb scoop preview

04 Inwear Atelier 01 The Mix The Mix is a contemporary eyewear brand, born in 2014 from a desire to blend cult classics and urban vibes. Designed in the brand’s London studio, The Mix’s original concepts constantly evolve with the sounds of the streets and the buzz of the runway, while fashion meets functionality. All frames are designed for comfort and durability, with all lenses offering full UVA and UVB protection. All products are also made in socially responsible factories that meet the criteria set out in the Ethical Trading Initiative.

02 Tandem Tandem is known for its clean lines, play of textures and subtle use of colour, and the brand has been a style staple for high-profile boutiques globally for two decades. The brand is part of the Transit Par Such group and prides itself on being produced in its native Italy to the most stringent quality standards. The a/w 18 collection once again embraces the core style principles that are fundamental to the brand – effortless elegance and understated cool.

03 Blugirl Folies Designed by Anna Molinari, Blugirl Folies is the younger collection of Blugirl, and sports a more metropolitan and rock attitude without losing the original DNA. Already stocked in some of the best boutiques around the world, the brand is looking to make an even bigger impact at this season’s edition of Scoop, with a contemporary, feminine and romantic collection.

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Feminine, urban and confident in design, Inwear Atelier’s style celebrates modern femininity through high-quality production and eye-catching details. Great comfort and ideal fit are at the core of the range, which was launched in 2016 as part of Danish brand Inwear. The collection references trends but is built on creative styling, with the established Inwear signature of the main brand as an underlying principle.

05 Vaubel US brand Vaubel’s art-to-wear concept has been fundamental to its growth and global success over the last four decades. The brainchild of husband and wife team Steve and Anita Vaubel, the brand’s jewellery is sculptural, modern and handmade, with a distinct style that has earned the brand almost cult status.




wwb scoop preview

06 Beatrice B Italian brand Beatrice B is aimed at women who appreciate quality and details in the choice of materials, design and workmanship. The flair of the brand runs through its collection, with geometric prints combined with animal graphics, printed furs and a subtle colour scheme summing up the style direction of the range.




06 • 75

wwb scoop preview

04 Hayley Menzies 01 Five Units Danish brand Five Units initially launched with denim, but the family-run company quickly realised that its real competency and strength was actually in casual trousers. The range is now based on five core styles that are updated in colours and fabrication each season, providing continuity and freshness in equal measure. Angelie is the brand’s best-selling style, thanks to its diagonally placed pockets and stitching on the knee, which create a streamlined shape that is also slimming.

02 Primrose Park Primrose Park has been created to encourage women to embrace colour and print, regardless of their age or the season. Prints are designed exclusively for Primrose Park, with each piece having been carefully designed by Anna Park, owner of indie boutique chain Anna. Initially an in-house brand, Primrose Park has since enjoyed growing wholesale success, recognised for its vibrant colour and print combinations, as well as silhouettes that flatter a multitude of women.

Hayley Menzies launched in 2011 after the eponymous designer was inspired by a trip to Asia to create her label. Initially sold at Portobello Road Market, Hayley Menzies went on to sell online and opening the doors to her Studio Store, now complemented with a successful wholesale range. Collections consist of beautifully made statement accessories that transcend trends and seasons. Focal points are ethically sourced materials and recycled fur.

05 Harc Paris Harc Paris offers luxurious and unique handbags that display genuine finesse and creative flair. Geometric lines are at the core of each collection, with each style made from high-end leathers chosen in one of the best tanneries in the world and carefully put together by hand by experienced artisans. An arrow, which features across the designs, is key to the identity of the label, as are beautiful details which make it a definite brand to watch.

03 Pyrus Pyrus’ design concept is based on wardrobe favourites by creating easy-to-wear modern classics which are not affected by fashion fads. The husband and wife team behind the label, Ash and Lorraine Johnson, are inspired by their travels to India, vintage markets and art fairs, with all prints exclusively designed in their East London studio. The brand is particularly known for its printed silk blouses and embroidered jackets, with new core products being added every season.


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wwb scoop preview


06 Des Petits Hauts Layering is key for a/w 18 at French brand Des Petits Hauts. Printed silk shirts and knee-length dresses feature alongside chunky knit cardigans, worn with wide leather belts. All garments are made from the softest yarns: alpaca, super kid mohair, pima cotton, while subtle autumn colours such as slate, bottle green, fox and navy dominate and are accented with brights such as emerald, saffron and lipstick red.

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A/ W 2018 00 7IA ALL GODSKE BRANDS SHOWING AT THE FOLLOWING VENUES The Gallery Dusseldorf Fashion House 2, 2nd Floor - Room 2C - 202 23rd Jan to 30th Jan 2018 CIFF Copenhagen – Bella Centre B3 – 241, 31st Jan to 2nd Feb 2018 Pure Exhibition Olympia Stand Nos C123 – C130 and C131 11th Feb to 13th Feb 2018 London Showroom also open Sat 10th Feb and Sun 11th Feb 2018 WEEKEND OF PURE Moda UK – NEC Birmingham Hall 20 – Stand Nos U41 and U51 18th Feb to 20th Feb 2018 Dublin Showroom Weekend 25th Feb to 27th Feb 2018 LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK Showroom: Great Titchfield House 14/18 Great Titchfield Street London W1W 8BD Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: DUBLIN SHOWROOM 1: Godske Group Ireland Niall Scanlan, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount Dublin 24. Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

wwb preview


01 Eat Dust

04 Grenson

Eat Dust was conceived as a clothing brand by friends Rob and Keith over a few beers in their local bar. Seven years on, and the Belgium brand has an established following and is loved for its cool and relaxed styling. But don’t be fooled, the emphasis is on highquality fabrics and super crisp workmanship, making each piece a standout fashion item.

British heritage shoe maker Grenson has been making footwear for over 150 years, carefully crafting each pair using only the finest materials. Now the brand has launched its first ever collection of Grenson sneakers. Sneaker 1, a key style of the range, is based on a super clean 70s tennis shoe. It is made from hand-painted calf, smooth white calf and luxury calf suede with an Italian white rubber sole. Grenson will be introducing the full range at Jacket Required.

REQUIRED LangerChen is a German/Chinese sustainable brand launched by Philipp Langer and Miranda Chen in 2009. The brand is pioneering fair production and employment practices in China and is dedicated to eco-friendly and certified organic materials and manufacturing. All unique organic fabrics are specially developed using the company’s distinctive techniques. The collection offers clean lines and minimalist styling, creating the perfect backdrop for the highquality materials to do the talking.

Didriksons started out in 1913, producing workwear for the fisherman on the edge of Sweden’s western coast. The brand’s core principle has remained the same since: we don’t challenge the elements, we adapt to them. The brand has an international reputation for making functional clothing that keeps the wearer dry and comfortable, regardless of the weather. The brand works to reduce the environmental impact of production by minimizing the use of chemicals, not using toxins and utilising as little water, energy and transport as possible – all of this, without compromising on style, as the a/w 18 collection proves.

03 Henri Lloyd

06 Loreak

For a/w 18, Henri Lloyd is launching a new range of jackets for both men and women, based on key styles from its archives. The collection stays true to the originals but offers built-in protective engineering for today’s lifestyle. Taking inspiration from original designs and keeping Henri Lloyd signature details, the jackets are a contemporary update of fabrications, designs and colour palettes. The new jackets will incorporate the leading edge of high-performance fabric and technologies from Henri Lloyd’s marine range.

Spanish brand Loreak is an independent global brand that was founded in 1995. Its core philosophy is based on utility rather than showiness, with authentic, clear-cut clothes at the core. The brand’s three main pillars are landscape, manufacture and culture, which influence each collection. Expect to find functional clothes with an understated edge and distinct style.

02 LangerChen

The second womenswear edit at premium trade show Jacket Required offers an even stronger line-up of authentic, independent and heritage brands. WWB highlights six of the labels to watch at the show, which returns to the Old Truman Brewery in London on 24 to 25 January.

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05 Didriksons

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wwb moda preview




02 Katy Perry Footwear


Moda Footwear welcomes a host of new names this season, including Californian style in the shape of Katy Perry Footwear. The pop icon has already enjoyed global success with her high fashion, wearable designs and, for the first time ever, womenswear buyers can discover the inspirational collection at Moda Footwear. Katy Perry Footwear is part of the Global Brands stable, and will be exhibited alongside similarly iconic footwear and accessories brand Fiorelli, which also arrives at Moda Footwear for the very first time. Stand G40

01 Liverpool Jeans

03 Emu Australia

Created from a wealth of inside experience, Liverpool Jeans is one to watch in the denim world. The brand was created by the former operators of industry leaders NYDJ and Denimhead with one simple mission; to create jeans through the ultimate advancement of fit solutions for under $100. The brand offers jeans for all ages and body types in four-way stretch denim to create its unique signature fit, and the brand has already been picked up as a pioneer of its kind in the fashion world. Stand R88

Emu Australia specialises in innovative and comfortable premium footwear. The brand was born out of the coastal regions of South Australia in Geelong – the start of the Great Ocean Road – and has forged its own path to become a global leader in sheepskin footwear. Discover Emu Australia at Moda Footwear this season and its comprehensive range of styles, which has diversified beyond its signature sheepskin boots. Stand H35

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wwb moda preview

Moda Woman and Moda Footwear welcome a host of new arrivals this season, never before seen at the show. Here are six to watch out for.




04 Meri Esca


Part of the Avona Group, Meri Esca is already a major player in its native France. Meri Esca specialises in women’s ready-to-wear with a creative flair and a strong commitment to accessible pricing. Over the past 50 years, Meri Esca has become a favourite for more than 15,000 consumers worldwide, and the brand’s arrival at Moda Woman signifies the next phase in the brand’s ongoing development. Expect to see distinctive shapes in a striking colour palette of monochrome and bronze, interspersed with floral prints for a modern, feminine look. Stand S54

Simple, versatile and essential – the classic white shirt is at the heart of the philosophy of new arrival The Shirt Company. The brand is dedicated to creating luxury shirts and blouses for women in a surprising range of cuts and silhouettes that add a whole new dimension to a classic wardrobe staple. Each style is manufactured from fine Italian yarns, accented with pin-tucks, frills, ruffles and pleats. Stand Q58

05 525 America Since its inception in 1983, New York label 525 America has been quietly filling a niche in the knitwear market. The Brooklyn export is characterised by high-quality cotton sweaters in modern shapes, which harbour a wide appeal to women across the age demographics. Quiet innovation has seen the label expand its textural

06 The Shirt Company

palette with the introduction of chenille and cashmere. As the brand focuses on its global expansion, there are plans for an increased sizing offer further down the line. Discover 525 America first at Moda Woman this season, when the brand makes its debut as part of the Dekyser portfolio. Stand R79


wwb preview 01 N2 Created in 2004, the brand N2 is the little sister of Les Néréides and aims to be unhesitatingly creative and quirky. The collections are original and refined for vibrant, funny girls with a dash of impertinence. Enameled metal, fantasy beads and resin are key ingredients in the collection. 02 CAMPANIA FANTASTICA The main distinctive features of Spanish brand Compañía Fantástica are colour and prints in pieces full of originality and attitude. With a noticeable urban style and visual strength, Compañía Fantástica defends the idea that a colourful and powerful look is not at odds with elegance and everyday use.



03 DUET LUXURY With a vast product portfolio of exclusive handcrafted accessories blending exotic wood and leather coupled with the luxury of customizing every product, Duet is original, futuristic and functional. The collection is filled with unique shapes and embellishments, creating contemporary accessories while retaining traditional features. 04 LAURA VISENTIN Laura Visentin is an Italian jewellery designer from Bassano del Grappa, a town located in the north east of Italy. A huge variety of materials define the collections, including clay, porcelain, bronze, stones and more.


Pure London


04 WWB highlights some of the key labels at the upcoming edition of the London show. 05 MARIAN Part of the Fashion Edge portfolio of brands, this family-run Spanish label has been producing footwear and styling handbags for over 40 years. Quality, comfort and craft are key, using eyecatching detailing to enhance classic shapes as well as creating footwear for any occasion.



06 YING CAI Ying Cai is an emerging New York ready-to-wear brand with its entire design and production based in New York City. The brand’s simple yet elegant style is heavily influenced by the designer’s Eastern and Fine Art background. The a/w 18 collection features elegant and sophisticated pieces made from luxurious, tactile fabrics and hand-painted elements. • 85 I 01566 779 477 Showing at: Panorama - INDX - Pure - Moda

wwb retail talk


The latest in-store news from the industry What’s been your Christmas best-seller? JOANNA DAVIES Owner, Black White Denim, Wilmslow l

“We’ve had a great December and were actually 45 per cent ahead on the previous year and are running 55 per cent ahead of our last financial year after the first four months, which is obviously very encouraging for the new year and new season. Our Christmas best-sellers included Veja trainers, Universe of Us socks, Bella Freud knitwear, Rixo London dresses, blouses, skirts and playsuits, as well as Wildfox tees, sweatshirts and hoodies.”

Retail Therapy


ALEXANDRA BOARDMAN Owner, Alexandra’s, Keswick l “We often get unsolicited calls from people who have the uncanny knack of ringing at an awkward time and then can talk for several minutes without pausing, making it difficult to end their call! It is particularly irritating when they pretend that they are not a sales call or even ringing from BT or ask you for your contract renewal date and object when you don’t want to share the private information. What annoys me even more is when you are in store and have got customers to serve, but then have to deal with this. It’s happening so frequently, it really is one of my big bugbears – not just of retail, but generally.”




What is your business New Year’s resolution?

JANINE O’KEEFE, O’KEEFES FASHION, ESHER “I am going to go back to buying more short-order products as they are always available. Over the last few years, my buying has been mainly forward order and is a big commitment for a small independent. Any new brands I take on have to be at a key price point, too. Everyone seems to be very price aware now.”

CHLOE MCCAIG, RED RUBAN ROUGE, STIRLING “For 2018, I want to get my shop a beautiful transactional website. I have been concentrating on the bricks and mortar, but I have recently had a lot of enquiries about my online shop, and it is time to give it some much-deserved attention.”

PAMELA SHIFFER, PAMELA SHIFFER, LONDON “I’m just about to have the shop completely redecorated – about time! – to take us to the next 10 years of retail. So it’s not an exact resolution, however, it should be a big improvement, not only for us but for our customer experience as well and is a key development for 2018.”


wwb e-tail clinic — essential ecommerce advice

The expert view: Four effective ways to go from Instagram to sale

Web chat:


IRMA HUNKELER Head of Operations at BlueGlass. l Many retailers make the mistake of treating their online presence and physical stores differently, when it’s actually far more sensible and profitable to view them holistically. But how do you go from Instagram to a sale? Let’s take a look at four ways in which you can drive customers to your stores by using your online channels.

“Our website sales have been slightly down over the Christmas and New Year period; I think because people really preferred to come in store and get the personal experience. However, the website worked really well in terms of driving customers to the store. Despite having a transactional site, I find that our customers use the website mainly to look up what we have in stock, what’s new, etc., and then come in and do the purchase physically, which is not a bad thing, as we are the type of store that is all about people and personal contact. Our Instagram feed also works really well in conjunction with the website and all the products appear on both, which further aids footfall. I’m planning a new season event in mid March, which will also be reflected on the site with discount codes and will work in conjunction with a customer evening.”

A CONSISTENT PRESENCE FROM THE SCREEN TO THE STORE Your business needs to look and feel the same in every form, from your Instagram account to the inside of your stores. This sense of familiarity is l important for the customer as it promotes your HANNAH JENNINGS business as one that is trustworthy and reliable, Owner, Starburst Boutique, Dartmouth which in turn makes the customer far more loyal to your brand. This consistency should extend not just to the logo and the colours associated with your business, but also to the style and tone of the advertising copy used pages, whereby if a potential customer searches for a nearby store, any current promotions or events can be advertised as an extra both online and offline. incentive to go along. A STORE LOCATOR A store locator platform is an ingenious piece of software which is INFLUENCER MARKETING sure to drive customers to your stores. Essentially a directory of your This one can be tricky to get right, but when it’s done correctly the physical stores, this platform enables customers to either search for rewards are plentiful. Influencer marketing involves working with the location of your store or geo-locate themselves to find the store someone who has a significant amount of clout on social media, nearest to them. Shoppers are often browse from shop to shop, and whether they have a particularly popular Instagram account, a if they can easily search for your location from their phone, you’re YouTube channel with a large number of followers, or a blog which receives a high amount of hits. After you’ve researched the kind of sure to see more customers coming to your store. online personalities you think might be interested, matching their specific interests to your products, approach them and see if they ADVERTISE IN-STORE EVENTS Using social media to publicise in-store events and promotions is would be interested in promoting your brand via their channels. A picture on Instagram or a video in which a vlogger shows an excellent way of driving customers offline. Instagram Stories are being used more and more to draw customers into stores. This off and talks about your product for even 30 seconds could do a lot approach can also be effectively combined with your store locator to get the word out about your business. Not only can this be a great way to reach certain demographics, who may pay more attention to an Instagram star than a TV advert, it can also build trust and confidence in your brand if the personality is someone admired for their good taste and knowledge of current trends.

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The last word with...

Leanne Claxton Founder and designer of the eponymous label. What is your background and how did you come to launch your fashion label? My educational background from the early stages was very fine art based and I didn’t actually study textiles until degree level. After I was accepted into Central Saint Martins, my choice was an obvious one, based on mainly wanting to go into an industry when I graduated. But I always carried on painting. I discovered my favourite designer on my first trip to Paris just before I started my degree. I was in the Christian Lacroix boutique and I saw he had designed a canvas jacket that looked like an actual painting, and I fell in love with the idea. From then on, my goal was to work with Lacroix and learn everything about print design, because essentially it is all about painting. With a lot of determination, and of course good timing and luck, I managed to secure my work placement year with Lacroix. However, to my surprise, when I graduated in 2006, I accepted the first full-time job I was offered, which was a very commercial job in Hong Kong designing print and embroideries for high street brands. It was at one of my first painting exhibitions in Hong Kong that I sold a very small limited collection of scarves with my artwork printed on – because of the success, I started to think about having my own scarf brand. I found the transition from artist to brand difficult at first, but then you get used to having your name on everything! I launched my label official during LFW in 2015.

“You can really feel the painting process in each piece, they mobilise art and give it movement. Silk allows the colours to be layered in a different way each time they are wrapped around the body.”

What describes the aesthetic of your label best? To blur the lines between art and fashion. I would like to think that my silk accessories make real art, real brushstrokes into vibrant, versatile accessories. You can really feel the painting process in each piece, they mobilise art and give it movement. Silk allows the colours to be layered in a different way each time they are wrapped around the body. The canvases are a great way to showcase art in exhibitions and the scarves a great way to carry the art with you on your adventures and travels – accessible art.

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What inspires you? In terms of influencing my work, I would say that Asia and being able to easily travel to places like Thailand, Sri Lanka and Bali have hugely influenced my work. But I also find other artists and fashion designers inspiring – my favourites being Lacroix, Dries Van Noten, Azuma Makoto, Turner, Monet and, of course, Georgia O’Keeffe. Do you offer any other product groups? I have started to develop some home textiles and hope to fully launch my new cushion range soon, followed by blankets. This year I launched my umbrella range and cosmetic bags, which is very exciting. Resort wear is an area I would like to explore when my business grows and I have more resources. What are your plans for the label and the future? In November I had my own studio shop space pop up in a creative hub called PMQ in Hong Kong. I would like to run that again during 2018. Having my own shop in Hong Kong was great because I was able to meet new customers from all over the world. I can paint, too, on the shop’s balcony, which is perfect because I love to paint outside.

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