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ISSUE 237 | FEBRUARY 2017 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

STREET STYLE FRESH FROM FLORENCE FROM SUITS TO SEMINARS, YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO MODA UK DISCOVERING THE KEY RETAIL TRENDS SET TO DOMINATE 2017


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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 10

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

12

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

15

Expert Opinion

Advice on industry issues

21

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

24

In-season stock

Zip It

26

The edit

Accessories and add-ons to consider in-store

28

Best performance

The success of Geox

30

Top Drawer

Grooming and accessory highlights from the show

32

2017 retail trends

What’s in-store for consumers and retailers this year

34

London Fashion Week Men’s

Trends fresh from the catwalk

36

Pitti peacocks

Street style from Florence

38

Pitti products

MWB’s pick of the brands

41

Moda UK

Your essential guide to Moda, from suits to seminars

53

Farah Jeans out to fill the middle gap

The latest development from Farah

54

Mission Berlin

Highlights from SEEK, Premium and Panorama

56

Show round-up: Jacket Required

The faces behind some of the show’s key exhibitors

58

Northern revival

Profiling new kid on the promenade

62

Blues club

MWB’s mainstream photoshoot

74

30 years of innovation

Profiling iconic Italian brand Napapijri

R E G U L A R S 7 8 18

Comment News Interview

Steve Cochrane

76 79 82

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Thuy Nguyen

Front cover:

Eton 077 36 11 08 01


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | COMMENT | 07

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — W R I T E R Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com

Despite the likes of London Fashion Week Men’s sending a plethora of black designs down the runway, and trends at Pitti Uomo remaining safe and unassuming, the mood in retail has been anything but subdued over the past month. —

— M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2017 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

I’m pleased to report a growing number of retailers I managed to catch up with at recent trade shows have had a better-than-expected start to the year. And while the country’s decision to leave the EU is starting to take form (turn to p8 to discover the industry’s response to Theresa May’s plans to leave the single market), and the high street continuing to struggle against the world of online shopping, it didn’t dampen the spirits of those out and about during the a/w 17 buying season. However, we’re not naive enough to believe it’s all positivity and sales galore for many out there in retail. The trading climate is tough, especially with the industry changing at a faster pace than ever before. If improving your business is on the agenda in 2017 – and if it’s not then I ask you why? – you’ll be glad to know this issue is dedicated to bringing you advice on essential topics from leading experts in the industry. From discovering the right way to work with fashion bloggers to get the best out of the partnership, to catering to the millennial customer, it’s an issue you’ll want to keep referring back to. To keep you one step ahead of the game, we’ve highlighted the consumer trends that are set to influence the retail industry landscape this year on p32, from the impact of social media of driving shopping choices to personalising consumers’ experiences. Retailers really do have more opportunities than ever to gather intelligence on consumer shopping habits, so why not make 2017 the time you embrace these and provide a more bespoke experience, engage with your customers and start to deliver your message at a time when they’re at their most receptive. Whether it’s expert advice or inspiration for in-store, the UK’s largest trade fashion exhibition Moda is set to offer both in abundance. From a roster of new signings to the launch of New Business Tuesday – a concept designed for those who may be new to the industry, with a dedicated seminar programme specifically advising on the issues you need to know about to get your business up and running – there’s more reason than ever to register and attend the event. Hopefully I’ll see many of your there and as always, email or tweet your thoughts to @mwbmagazine. Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

STRONG PARIS DEBUT FOR RESIDENT SHOWROOM

INDUSTRY ADOPTS PRAGMATIC VIEW OVER SINGLE MARKET EXIT Following the announcement by Prime Minister Theresa May last month that the UK will seek to leave the single market as part of the formal Brexit negotiations with the EU, the majority of fashion industry players have adopted a pragmatic approach, hoping that any negative impact on trade will be minor and short-lived before new trade deals can be put in place. “Tariffs and additional bureaucracy burdens will hamper the business mood; new processes will need to be implemented, which will take some time to get used to. But in the long term we will find a solution. I hope it does not go back to the times of pre-EU membership, though; we deserve better than that,” says Andy Tompsett, head of UK for Merc. “The long-term impact will be a massive shake-up in the way we do things and the way this nation trades. There will be negatives in the short term, but there will be winners and losers. We have to adapt to new times or we will fail.” This is mirrored by Brian Winterbourne, agent for Seidensticker. “Whatever I think about staying or leaving the single market, the decision is now taken and every successful business will just have to change, adapt and move forward,” he says. “A business like Seidensticker – trading since 1919 – has seen uncertain times in the past and is currently taking a very supportive and longer term approach to the British market and will not be having any knee jerk reactions to currency uncertainties. Our autumn collection will be increased in price by an average of just 4.8 per cent, and we are confident that our customers will see this as fair and support us.” Juls Dawson, owner of Just Consultancies, also concurs: “I believe in the short term leaving the single market is a bad thing, due to the collapse of the pound and the effect it has on all of my suppliers. Long term, we will have to wait and see, also what additional restrictions and red tape Brexit will have on the import and export of goods. It may mean that mark-ups may go down and/or RRPs up. It may restrict free shipment from some of our brands, and in turn may drive sales towards our more accessibly priced brands,” he says. —

New Paris-based trade show Resident Showroom won rave reviews for last month’s debut edition, held on Rue de la Roquette in the French capital’s buzzing Bastille district during Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Launched by Jacket Required founders Mark Batista and Craig Ford, a private showroom for around 15 brands on Monday to Thursday was followed by a three-day trade show with around 40 names. “Resident Showroom far exceeded our expectations,” says Mark Batista, pointing to the strength of both the event’s brand list and visitors. Alongside names such as Garbstore, Hancock and Barbour, Japanese brands included Masterpiece and Tiesay. Leading Japanese stores Beams and United Arrows were among the attendees, as well as the likes of Colette, Mr Porter, Selfridges, 14oz, Firmament and Oi Polloi. The next edition will run alongside Paris Men’s Fashion Week in June. —

FILIPPA K APPOINTS NEW CEO AND CHAIRMAN The board of Filippa K has appointed Kristofer Tonström as new CEO, taking over the role from Anna Lönnerstedt, who has been interim CEO since September 2016. Lönnerstedt will continue in the newly created position of range & supply director. Simon Griffiths has been appointed new chairman of the board. The resigning chairman, Eric Persson, CEO of Novax, will remain a board member. Tonström has many years of experience leading international brand driven organisations with a focus on innovation, marketing and sales, having most recently been CEO of Omega Pharma Nordic AB where he has built one of the Nordic region’s largest and fastest growing health and beauty companies. Griffiths, meanwhile, has substantial experience working internationally with strategy and business development at EQT and Bain & Company. —


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | NEWS | 09

NEWS IN BRIEF

WESC APPOINTS NEW CEO

STRONG OPENING FOR JACKET REQUIRED

Joseph Janus, former CEO of WeSC America, has been appointed chief executive officer of WeSC Worldwide with a primary focus on directing the strategy for sales and distribution as well as marketing and PR. In addition to his current role of overseeing all US operations, Janus will now lead the entire organisation, working closely with the Stockholm based head of design, head of production and sales team. He will continue to work primarily from WeSC's New York office and will assume overall responsibility for directing the brand's a/w 17 sales efforts together with the sales team in Stockholm. "I am very excited about my new role as CEO for the WeSC group," says Janus. "I strongly believe the efforts we have made in the US market in elevating WeSC's brand positioning and distribution will translate very well to our worldwide market." —

Jacket Required continued to cement itself as a leading show in the buying calendar last month, as it welcomed a strong buyer turnout from both the UK and internationally. The show presented a roster of over 200 brands at The Old Truman Brewery including Wrangler by Peter Max, Eat Dust, Gant Rugger, Hunter and La Paz. Making its show debut was premium footwear label Loake. "It's definitely been the right move for us," explains Tom Turton, UK sales manager. "It gives us that platform to reach premium menswear stores that we might not have been able to otherwise, and just in the first day we've got six or seven potential new accounts." Returning label Gloverall, meanwhile, had an equally positive reaction from buyers. "I can say without doubt, this has been the best first day we've ever had since we started showing here," says James Hall, UK sales manager. —

JOULES SUPPORTS YOUNG ENTERPRISE CAMPAIGN

RETAIL JOBS DECLINE

British lifestyle brand Joules has, through its partnership charity The Prince’s Trust, completed the first Leicestershire youth Enterprise programme. The event took place on 26 January in Leicester and lasted for four days. Eleven young entrepreneurs from Leicestershire attended, receiving training across a number of different areas including strategy, financial planning and marketing. The aim of the Enterprise programme is to help youngsters turn their big ideas into business reality. Following the workshop, young people will begin to write their business plans and work with The Trust to start up in business. They are then matched with an experienced business mentor for 12-24 months who will hone their skills, advise them on strategy, finance and other considerations, and ultimately support them in their journey. —

The end of 2016 saw the number of jobs in the retail industry decline according to the British Retail Consortium’s Employment Monitor, as employers hired fewer seasonal staff and cut down overtime hours. “While the end of the year remains the busiest time for workers in retail, the figures are consistent with the long-term trend of retailers reducing the number of hours being worked to adjust to big structural changes in the industry,” says British Retail Consortium chief executive, Helen Dickinson. “In the last quarter, seasonal overtime was scaled back much more than in previous years, reflecting the relative fall in importance of Boxing Day relative to pre-Christmas spend and Black Friday. We also saw some retailers reduce temporary seasonal staffing levels earlier than in previous years,” she adds. —

MESSE DÜSSELDORF TRANSFERS GDS TO IGEDO Messe Düsseldorf, owner and organiser of German footwear trade show GDS, has integrated the event into the portfolio of its subsidiary, Igedo Company. The show will be held for the last time at the Messe Düsseldorf site from 7 to 9 February, with Igedo organising and relaunching the show with a new concept at Düsseldorf’s Areal Böhler venue in late August/early September. Over the past few years GDS and its sister show Tag it! have been elaborately redesigned in close cooperation with the shoe sector, but failed to fulfil the expectations of both the organisers and industry. Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, president and CEO at Messe Düsseldorf, attributes this to the changes in the shoe sector: “The sector has radically changed over the past few years and the pace has picked up again. The major event that GDS has been for over six decades no longer seems to be the right format for the current challenges within the shoe sector. For this reason we are now taking consistent action with new responsibilities and a new venue,” he says. — SHARE OF NEXT DAY DELIVERY GROWS Latest data from IMRG and MetaPack reveals that the typical delivery timeframe appears to be shrinking, with next-day delivery services now accounting for a greater share of online orders. In 2016 next-day delivery was selected as the carriage option for 31 per cent of online retail orders, up from 26.8 per cent in 2015. Over the same period, the share of orders using economy services fell from 45.5 per cent in 2015 to 38.9 per cent in 2016. The data has also tracked a notable shift in when the bulk of Christmas peak deliveries fall. In 2014 the monthly growth in order volumes between November and December was +27.7 per cent; in 2015 it was +14.3 per cent, but in 2016 it was just +4.5 per cent. This is largely explained by Black Friday falling earlier in 2016 (25 November), whereas it was 28 November in 2014 and 27 November in 2015, and the fact that with previous years’ experience retailers have been extending this pre-Christmas sales period even earlier into November. In 2014 and 2015, although the orders were taken late in November, many of them would actually have been fulfilled in early December. — NICK REED TO JOIN MOSS BROS Nick Reed is to join high street tailoring specialist Moss Bros, as buying director. Reed, who joins from Charles Tyrwhitt, will be tasked with driving sales growth across all channels, particularly in the development of the brand's online business. Following another set of positive trading results posted last week, Moss Bros. has ambitious growth plans for both its high street stores and digital platform. Reed’s experience in online buying will strengthen the Moss Bros. product offering across all channels, whilst his creative flair will ensure the brand continues to build presence in the men’s tailoring market. —


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | ADVICE | 10

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: WHY 2017 WILL BE A GREAT YEAR FOR ONLINE FASHION BRANDS

BRIGHT MASIH, STRATEGIC ACCOUNT DIRECTOR – RETAIL, AT BLACK PEPPER SOFTWARE

There are so many exciting opportunities opening for online retailers this year as technology adoption picks up the pace. Firstly, the rate of change is going to be guided by the ever-evolving behaviour of shoppers. Consumers are now expecting convenience, seamless brand experience and 24/7 support online. As a result, convenience will need to be at the epicentre of the 2017 technological advancements. Some brands and retailers have already recognised this and invested in internal software development labs, external software development partnerships and technology hubs to underpin these growing consumer expectations. To keep up with the consumer, brands and retailers also need to implement super-aggregated big data. This needs to delve deeper than being based solely on cookie data, but instead take into account past purchase information and big data that has been aggregated in-store as well as online and through external, trusted data partners. This data should also be used in conjunction with machine learning algorithms to deliver content that is hyper-personalised. One leading area I expect to increase in adoption this year is the use of artificial intelligence (AI) apps. Current fashion brand apps will begin to merge seamlessly into AI integrated apps with machine learning driving the dynamic content that will be served intelligently. The benefits of this will mean that customers are consistently exposed to highly relevant product suggestions and recommendations. As this type of shopping is adopted, consumers will grow to expect this level of service consistently and smart retailers will already be considering how they can implement machine learning technology into their online service – for example, as AI assistants guiding customers through their purchasing journey. As we bid farewell to 2016, which ended with a positive peak trading period, there isn’t a moment to rest for fashion brands and retailers who need to ensure that they are not left behind the technology adoption curve. Competition will be tough, but those that keep a keen eye on what consumers want and predict where the shifts in behaviour is heading, will see a lucrative year indeed. —

WEB WATCH

WWW.STREETETIQUETTE.COM Joshua Kissi and Travis Gumbs are the voices behind popular men’s lifestyle website turned creating agency Street Etiquette. Established in 2008, the website showcases style using a “cultural, historical and urban perspective” according to the duo. Among other accolades, Street Etiquette has been featured in GQ, Complex and Fantastic Man, as well as working with brands such as Adidas, Starbucks and the US Open. —

NEWS

ONLINE CONTINUES TO GROW AS CONSUMERS BECOME INCREASINGLY FRUSTRATED WITH PHYSICAL STORES A third of shoppers are frustrated with bricks and mortar stores, according to a new report by Capgemini’s Digital Transformation Institute that surveyed consumers and retail executives from the UK, US, China, Germany, France, Italy, Spain, the Netherlands and Sweden. The report found consumers were frustrated with the high street shopping experience that they say offers little of the convenience of online counterparts, with four in ten (40 per cent) claiming shopping in-store to be a “chore”. The research also found that some 54 per cent of retail executives surveyed admitted they had been slow in digitising their physical stores although it was a top priority for 78 per cent of those canvassed. However, 40 per cent added that they are limited by both existing technology investments and the capabilities of in-store staff. Those consumers surveyed, meanwhile, noted they were happy to explore new purchase paths, with more than half willing to buy directly from manufacturers in the future or to buy from technology players such as Google, Apple and Facebook if they partnered with local retailers for last-mile delivery. “Shoppers are increasingly disconnected from the in-store experience, and it’s easy to see why,” says Mike Petevinos, global head of consumer products and retail at Capgemini Consulting. “Most physical shops remain stubbornly ‘offline’, unable to offer the speed, flexibility and sheer ease of use that consumers take for granted on websites. Rumours of the death of the high street store may be exaggerated, but they are becoming uncomfortably close to the mark. “Many retailers we spoke to admit they aren’t digitising stores quickly enough because making a business case for investment is challenging. This report makes it clear the real question retailers have to be asking themselves isn’t whether they can afford to transform the in-store experience, but can they afford not to?” —


GENT A/W 17 19-21 FEBRUARY 2017 NEC BIRMINGHAM

Register for tickets at moda-uk.co.uk


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 12

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

ADVICE HOW TO INCREASE E-COMMERCE SALES ON SOCIAL MEDIA

OPPERMANN OPENS ROYAL EXCHANGE POP-UP Following its online success, premium accessory label Oppermann has opened a three-month-long flagship in London’s iconic Royal Exchange. Located in the heart of the capital’s financial district, the store interior makes a statement with a minimalist palette that allows the materials to speak for themselves. In co-operation with furniture architect David Ross, the brand designed the fittings in a monolithic, stone-like building material, complemented by evergreen plants. Using clean lines, timeless materials and a black and grey colour scheme, the space is consistent with the brand's modernistinspired aesthetics, all enhanced by the hint of heritage from the Royal Exchange building. Being a label with strong values, gallery-like plaques are placed throughout the store to communicate the brand philosophy. “As a luxury accessories brand working mainly with leather, we want to offer our customers a chance to see our products first-hand, to smell and touch the leather, see the finishing and hear the stories,” says Niklas Oppermann, co-founder. —

NEWS IN BRIEF ALLSAINTS OPENS FIRST MEXICO STORE British fashion brand AllSaints has opened its first store in Mexico as the retailer continues its expansion in Latin America. The 2,368 sq ft store in Mexico City’s Antara shopping centre - located in Polanco - offers menswear and womenswear collections as well as key looks from the latest seasonal collections. The debut in Mexico has been facilitated by Grupo Sordo Madaleno, which currently operates across 25 retail locations hosting fashion, cosmetic and toy franchises.

CONSUMERS FALL OUT OF FAVOUR WITH JANUARY SALES According to a report by Mastercard, nearly all of consumers surveyed said they have fallen out of love with January sales. Over 90 per cent said the reason was there are so many deals and promotional discounts throughout the year, and especially in the run-up to Christmas. The study also reveals that 48 per cent of British consumers made cut-price purchases in the days before Christmas rather than waiting for the traditional Boxing Day or January sales.

Paul Watson, CEO, Volo Commerce, www.volocommerce.com — Social media is now an integral part of our lives. Yet many online businesses are still failing to turn their social presence into profits. Follow these top tips to increase sales: 1. Plan. Draw up a clear set of goals. It might be increasing the number of followers to drive website traffic or maybe generating genuine user reviews and recommendations. 2. Go where your customers are. Try to know and understand your customers as much as possible. Who are they? What do they like and dislike? What is their social media of choice? You can find this information by asking them directly with a survey or with tools such as trackur or Google Analytics. 3. Know where your competitors are. Invest some time in researching what your top five competitors are doing well. Where do they have the most followers? What are they posting? What gains the most likes and shares? How do they promote each channel? 4. Provide an incentive to increase follows and shares. Entice customers with something they can’t get anywhere else: create competitions, offer free shipping or discounts or publish ‘breaking news’ like pre-product release announcements. 5. Engage with your customers. The primary goal of your business may be to sell products but don’t think of social media as just another way to generate sales and drive traffic. Use these platforms to bring added value and engage with your customers. 6. Keep it fresh. Immediacy is big in social media. However, you need to find the right strategy for each channel. Take into consideration what time customers use social media and how long they spend on each channel. 7. Let everyone know. If you’ve put a lot of effort and time into creating a smart, engaging social media presence, you’d better let everyone know about it. Embed social buttons across your website and don’t forget to include links on your invoices, stationery and email signatures. —


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 13

SHOPPED: PHIL GOODFELLOW How did you find this latest edition of Jacket Required? I thought there was a good atmosphere this time; people seemed more upbeat, which is refreshing. Everybody who works in our industry knows that it’s been hard for the last five years, but talking to people at the show, there was definitely positivity in the air. We even wrote three orders while we were there, including Clarks Originals. For us it saves us time and money having to come down to showrooms in London or Manchester again, so it makes sense. How do you view bricks and mortar retail at the moment? All I’ve heard for the past few years has been web this and web PHIL GOODFELLOW, CO-OWNER, that, SEO this and Google AdWords that, but people haven’t NORTHERN THREADS, turned over the revenue that everybody thought they would, SOUTH SHIELDS and I think there’s a real focus back on bricks and mortar retail with people working harder on customer service and merchandising. It’s a breath of fresh air really. It’s a case of let’s get back to what we’re good at and really focus on our customers and want they want, and it’s about looking at the product that’s really selling. What’s been selling for you? It’s still the big boys, Boss has been phenomenal, Aquascutum and Ralph Lauren have both been good, and we’ve had a decent season with Replay. Also, the lads are really buying in to that whole outdoor look, and we’ve had a good season with Jack Wolfskin, which surprised us a bit, and with Fjallraven and Napapijri. —

IN FOCUS: CARTOCON 129 NETHERGATE, DUNDEE DD1 4DP

ESTABLISHED: 2016 BRANDS: CARTOCON, LE LABOUREUR, MFPEN, NOVESTA, PADMORE & BARNES, P.A.M., RAINS, SATTA, SHOES LIKE POTTERY, SOULLAND, SPRING COURT, YMC

GUESS TO OPEN FLAGSHIP IN LIVERPOOL ONE Global lifestyle brand Guess is set to open a new flagship on Liverpool One’s Paradise Street this spring. The 5,000 sq ft store will be the first in the north west, and one of only a handful in the UK, to stock the complete Guess collection, including the brand’s denim offer for men and women, as well as other products including watches, sunglasses and footwear, and the Guess kids and Marciano ranges. The signing of Guess follows the opening of other Paradise Street regional flagships, including Jack Wolfskin, Lindt, Smiggle and Urban Decay. The five new international retailers total around 11,000 sq ft of fashion and lifestyle floor space, adding to Paradise Street’s portfolio of young urban brands. Footfall at the shopping destination reached 29 million in 2016, a 4 per cent increase, and sales grew by 8 per cent compared with 2015. —

NEWS IN BRIEF The Cartocon store opened in February 2016 after trading from a studio space and online for four years. The store is located in the west end of Dundee, opposite Dundee Contemporary Arts and a few minutes walk from DJCAD Art School. It stocks a mix of fashion and forward-thinking streetwear with brands including YMC, mfpen, Soulland, Say Hello Tokyo, Satta, P.A.M., Spring Court and its own in-house brand, Cartocon. Creative director and partner Nathan Lee runs the store with two other partners, Shafeeq Seale and Gary Crighton. He says: “Cartocon began as a brand back in 2012 and, after being well received and winning stockists around the UK, we opened up a studio and showroom space in our city of Dundee. Soon after we moved into our store which was designed totally in-house. As a store, we focus heavily on creating high quality and considered editorial content in the form of themed photoshoots and fashion films.” Product-wise they focus on a real mix of contemporary menswear as well as innovative streetwear brands to keep the local interest alive and well. New arrivals for this season are Saturdays NYC and Come Sundown, and Wood Wood will be joining the Cartocon offer from a/w 17. —

ASOS, JOHN LEWIS AND AMAZON AWARDED IN CUSTOMER SATISFACTION SURVEY E-tailers Amazon and Asos have both been awarded for a high level of customer satisfaction in the UK Customer Satisfaction Index (UKSCI). Coming in first and second place respectively, both Amazon and ASOS were measured on UK customer service. British department stores John Lewis and Marks & Spencer both entered the top five. Tesco, meanwhile, was highlighted as the most improved supermarket.


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | ADVICE | 15

EXPERT OPINION MWB brings together essential advice on tackling some of the key issues affecting brands and retailers in the fashion industry today. —

WORKING WITH FASHION BLOGGERS We live in an age where the power of the blogger is undeniably something which can no longer be ignored by brands. This is particularly relevant for fashion houses; working with bloggers opens brands up to the best chance of promotion, owing to the aesthetics of fashion blogs and their associated social media platforms. Not only can products be showcased for all to see, but brands also gain access to an audience who can ‘regram’ and ‘retweet’ products to their loyal followers. The key to unlocking these untapped audiences? Harnessing the power of the blogger. The first thing that needs to be addressed when looking to tap in to this resource is to find out what the brand’s IQ is. Yes, you heard that correctly. It is now common practice for companies and brands to assess their digital IQ to gain an understanding of how successful/ unsuccessful they are performing in the digital world; essentially a digital health check. Is the brand active on the main social media platforms? Does it have a mobile-optimised site? Is the website content regularly updated? These are all questions that need to be answered in order to properly assess digital presence, find areas that need to be improved on as well as areas that play to the brand’s strengths. Bloggers are more likely to work with brands who are already employing a good digital strategy, so this needs to be in place well in advance. Working with bloggers can really help to drive sales because of the increasing amount of trust placed in bloggers by their readers, fans and followers. Research Now Group recently found that for females, bloggers are placed after family

and friends as a key influence on their purchasing decisions, whereas, the male audience place most trust in a blogger when it comes to making a decision. In the past, a brand could rely solely on well-placed and targeted advertising. Now, engaging and collaborating with bloggers is key in driving footfall and sales. BEFORE DECIDING ON YOUR BLOGGER STRATEGY, YOU NEED TO CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING: What is the price point of your product? It’s vital that brands pick the bloggers accordingly; choosing a high street blogger to promote a designer bag won’t seem like a credible collaboration in the consumer’s eyes. A fit between the brand, the blogger and the audience is key to the success of the partnership.

How much audience engagement do you want? These are all questions that need to be addressed. Using bloggers as part of an online marketing strategy can not only increase sales for brands, but can also create a relationship between the brand and the consumer. When a consumer looks to a blogger to make a purchasing decision and ends up following their advice, the chances of a return purchase by that customer is heightened. This moves away from a purely transactional relationship between brand and e-consumer; a loyal customer base is created, increasing brand equity and earning the brand far more than just a sale. Going forward, this is what brands need to be looking to do, if they aren’t already.

Be flexible. Some bloggers have a full-time job and brands need to be aware of this. Plan out the strategy in detail ahead of time so that both parties know what is expected and the time investment required. This way, bloggers can schedule their posts to fit in with their daily routine. Type of partnership The type of partnership this is going to be is largely budget-dependent. Decide how you would best like to use the blogger to promote your products. Do you wish to simply do sponsored posts? Do you want to create a social media campaign, consistent across all platforms?

MARY ELLEN COTTER Senior publishing executive at Affilinet UK www.affili.net/uk

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | ADVICE | 16

WHEN THE END IS IN SIGHT: A REMINDER FOR BRANDS AND DISTRIBUTORS Come the end of a distributorship agreement, few think to turn back to the original contract. But refreshing your mind as to the terms that were agreed (most probably a number of years earlier) could well bring you huge benefits by saving you time or earning you extra profits. Alternatively (and importantly) it could also prevent you from later finding yourself in breach of the contract and even facing legal proceedings. Option to Buy-Back On or prior to termination of a distributorship agreement, a brand may have the option to buy back from the distributor any remaining stock. A brand should consider whether it wishes to exercise this option. Often the timeframe in which to exercise the option is short, so do not miss it. Perhaps it will benefit the brand if that stock is sold by a successor distributor? For example, if a brand suspects that a distributor is going to offload the stock to a discount reseller (which could potentially damage the brand’s image) the brand may wish to exercise the option. EU competition rules affect a brand’s ability to impose criteria upon a distributor in order to control the distribution of goods – for example, by determining to whom the goods can be sold, or the price at which they can be sold. Therefore, this may be the only chance a brand has to legitimately take control of stock and prevent goods from entering into or diluting a particular market. Alternatively, from a distributor’s

perspective, this could be a straightforward and cost-effective opportunity to shift the remaining stock. Once the timeframe has lapsed, a distributor may become obliged to return the goods to the brand without payment if it has not managed to sell the goods during the sell-off period (see further below). Save yourself some exertion and remind the brand. Sell-Off Period Many distributorship agreements allow a distributor a certain period of time, following termination of the distributorship agreement, in which to sell any remaining stock. At the end of that period, unsold stock may have to be returned to the brand, without payment. Distributors should take careful note of all deadlines to ensure that all sales are completed and delivered to their customers well within the sell-off period. Selling goods beyond that period will constitute a breach of the agreement, potentially giving rise to a legal claim by the brand. Exercising Set-off To misquote the PM, ‘set-off is not sell-off’. But brands need to be aware of set-off. A distributor aggrieved by the brand’s termination of the distributorship agreement may claim that termination by the brand is a breach of the agreement entitling the distributor to claim damages. It is then a potentially easy win for the

distributor to: sell off the remaining goods; and receive payment from its buyers; but fail to pay invoices owing to the brand at the time of termination of the agreement and setting-off the invoice value against its claim for damages. Four Top Tips • Remind yourself of your rights and obligations on termination. • Diarise any deadlines for buying back, returning or selling-off the goods. • Distributors: ensure all sales and deliveries are completed well-within the sell-off period. • Check whether your agreement excludes a right to set-off.

STEPHEN SIDKIN Partner at Fox Williams LLP www.agentlaw.co.uk www.fashionlaw.co.uk

CATERING TO THE MILLENNIAL CONSUMER This year has been characterised by a drive for speed, integrated cloud technology and continuous change as retailers realign their software systems to meet the new, demanding and digital consumer. The millennial shopper is increasingly a hot topic, but how unique is this new breed of always-connected consumers and what will retailers be expected to deliver to them in 2017? Mobile matters According to Forrester Research, 4.8 billion people globally are now using a smartphone. The mobile device is the central bridge between the physical and digital worlds, especially for the millennial shopper. Success will depend on a retailer’s ability to enhance the in-store customer experience through mobile devices, enabled through enhanced technology and cloud platforms. From extended in-store product information including augmented reality (AR), QR, digital screens, touchscreen online catalogues and mobile PoS for a more personalised shopping

experience, bricks & mortar retailers will increasingly need to bring the online experience in-store through mobile devices. And it’s not just about the in-store customer experience. Brands such as Neal’s Yard Remedies and Musto are harnessing cloud EPoS and retail management systems together with mobile PoS to enhance experience and shopper engagement through pop-up shops. Mobile and EPoS must extend into all forms of customer engagement and brand experience. Fast, simple and personal From point-of-sale transactions, delivery and returns through to fast product information, we will see customers increasingly valuing the ability to buy, deliver and collect quickly and easily, all whilst experiencing a seamless journey across any channel. The winners in this game will be those retailers whose management systems and EPoS frameworks have synchronised, real-time and universal data exchanges and built-in applications to deliver an omni-channel experience and cross-system accuracy.

From multi-channel to omni-experience Recent years have seen many retailers battle with patching up old and disparate IT systems to enable the sales and service process to transcend multiple channels. Next year will be the year in which retailers focus on customer omniexperience. We can expect to see more cloud EPoS and retail management platforms rolled out to provide real-time data streaming at every touch and service point from till, shopping cart, eBay, loyalty and promotions, stock holding, merchandising, delivery and return through to click and collect and e-receipts. Customer experience is the key to success Gartner research revealed that customer experience will be the primary basis for competitor differentiation in 2017. Success will come down to a retailer’s ability to give millennial shoppers the personalised, quick, easy and seamless multi-channel shopping experience they desire and demand. Those retailers that succeed in the postBrexit and millennial retail world will quickly


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HOW RETAILERS CAN BEST MANAGE THE RISK OF DILAPIDATIONS Most retail units are occupied pursuant to a lease, usually requiring the tenant to keep the property in repair. This can prove costly if the tenant takes no steps to manage the risk of property disrepair, and simply vacates the retail unit at the expiry of the lease. Ultimately, the landlord may pursue a ‘dilapidations’ claim for many thousands of pounds in damages. ‘Dilapidations’ are claims for damages for an alleged failure on the part of the tenant to comply with the repairing (and other) covenants in a lease, which is usually pursued by landlords after tenants have vacated property when the lease ends. So, what should retailers do to actively manage the risk of dilapidations? Forward Plan Start with a detailed analysis of what is required to deliver the property to the landlord in a lease compliant state. Someone needs to take ownership of the process of delivering the property back to the landlord and should work with solicitors and other specialists to identify what needs to be done to best reduce risk. Do you need to undertake works of repair? There are a number of possible outcomes to this process. Not all will involve the undertaking of works. It may be that a thorough analysis results

respond to shopper demands, integrating instore technology, mobile, cloud, analytics and social media into one unified and intelligent platform to boost customer engagement and experience.

IAN TOMLINSON CEO of Cybertill www.retailstore.co.uk

in the conclusion that there is little risk: instead some preparation may be required prior to the end of the lease to lay the groundwork for defending any claim presented by the landlord. Analyse the claim rather than haggle a deal It is not unknown for tenants (and their advisers) to negotiate with landlords without anyone actually analysing whether there is a genuine claim for losses. Consequently, significant sums are needlessly paid out by tenants. Generally, planning and implementing a strategy to mitigate risk at least a year before lease expiry is prudent.

Interim Dilapidations Claims Sometimes, landlords take action to enforce repairing obligations during the lease term. Tenants should react immediately if a schedule of dilapidations is served by taking expert advice. Unfortunately, tenants often consider dilapidations a matter that can be left until the end of the lease. By that time the landlord may already have taken legitimate and expensive enforcement action and the best opportunity for mitigating the risk of a substantial claim may have been lost.

Get the right team in place Managing the risk of a claim for damages may require input from any or all of the following: solicitor, building surveyor, quantity surveyor and valuation surveyor. This may look an expensive team, but the potential saving of thousands against often exaggerated claims by landlords can far outweigh the cost of expert advice. Watch out for contingency fees Quite often, landlords retain advisers to pursue such claims on the basis of ‘no win no fee’ arrangements. This gives landlords’ advisers a direct incentive to claim as much as possible from the outgoing tenant. Something for tenants to bear in mind.

RICHARD ROBINSON Associate solicitor at Shulmans corporate solicitors www.shulmans.co.uk


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INTERVIEW

STEVE COCHRANE Psyche in Middlesbrough celebrates its 35th anniversary this year, having just undergone a huge £500,000 extension of its backroom facilities to reflect the business’s growth. Tom Bottomley gets the details from managing director, and industry legend, Steve Cochrane. — Tom Bottomley: What spurred the new £500,000 extension to the Psyche business and how has it added to what you already had? Steve Cochrane: We’d just outgrown the building. It was 35,000 square feet, but it was all retail space really. There was not enough storage space, the offices were tiny and cramped, and the staff room was quite often full and just not big enough. We have 84 members of staff now, about 50 of which are on the shop floors, and we’re advertising for another two people for the online business, where there are currently 14 working. As we’ve grown, we hadn’t increased the accommodation space, but we’ve now added an additional 5,000 square feet to the building. I wanted to invest in a nice staff room with a pool table to improve staff morale. We’ve also got great office space now and everything is brand new. My office is now ridiculously big. In terms of funding the extension, we did it partly out of cash flow, partly out of a Psyche pension fund, and we took on a small loan. — TB: What areas are performing and how is the business split? SC: The women’s side of the business has seen a slight increase, and the childrenswear has seen a big increase. Tailoring has contracted, men’s fashion is a bit flat, and the website is going like crazy – 37 per cent up on last year. The split of the business is 54.3 per cent men’s, 22.6 per cent women’s, 11.4 per cent childrenswear, and the rest

MANAGING DIRECTOR PSYCHE


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is non-specific gender. We also do a bit of homeware which we sell quite well online. — TB: Where are the majority of your online customers located? SC: Most of them are in London, a whopping 61.2 per cent of our online customers in fact. We do a bit through Amazon, and we pay for Google AdWords and do a lot of targeted mailers – building a customer database all the time. Second is Glasgow, third is Birmingham, fourth is Manchester, fifth is Middlesbrough and sixth is Newcastle. And then about 10 per cent comes from overseas. — TB: Is the growth being driven by the online business? SC: Yes, very much so. What’s exciting is we launched an app about two years ago, but it never really did anything because you could only buy using Paypal. But now we can take credit cards on the app, and it’s made a huge difference. The app now accounts for 9 per cent of our online sales, and that’s a massive increase on last year where it was only about 1 per cent. We only relaunched that in mid-November last year. An app is a lot cheaper than a website, and a website is a lot cheaper than a shop, so that could be the future. — TB: But surely the bricks and mortar shop still has a big role to play? SC: It does, of course. I’ve been doing this for 35 years now, it’s Psyche’s 35th anniversary this year, and I absolutely still love it. It isn’t work to me. I love buying, I love product and dealing with customers, and I love being on the shop floor, although I don’t get time to do it as much as I’d like. I also think shops will come back stronger in a few years’ time, but in a slightly different format. Things will stabilise and settle down and, once they do, the novelty of going to shops will come back. Shops will have to improve and evolve, and they will need screens and to be interactive. Click and collect is growing at a massive rate, so you’ve got to come in to the shop to collect your purchase. —

TB: How much of your business is now done online? SC: The split is 68 per cent store and 32 per cent online at the moment. However, online sales increased by 36.7 per cent and 32 per cent the previous year, so at some point over the next year or two I think online sales will match the store sales. The amount of web sales we now do from mobile phones is enormous, some 63.7 per cent of our online sales. If you include sales from tablets that rises to 78 per cent. — TB: Would you consider yourself to be a groundbreaking retailer? SC: Most definitely. We try loads of new things all the time, though quite often they don’t work out. We actually launched online in 1997. Unfortunately, at the time, I had the Psyche own label, and then I took on this building in 2002, and that took my focus and attention away from online. I wish I’d continued to put all my efforts in to online, because we’d be a massive player now. We probably got in to it too early if anything. We’ve only really been refocusing on it for the past three years. — TB: What’s new on menswear? SC: We’ve just opened a new men’s contemporary area in what was an Armani shop-in-shop. Armani has now moved in to the main floor space, and in the new area we have Kenzo, Dries Van Noten, AMI, McQ, Oliver Spencer, Universal Works, Fred Perry x Raf Simons, Dsquared, Nudie, Edwin and YMC. All the cooler brands which are more about the fabrics, cuts and fits, as opposed to being about the badge. It’s good to have those brands all together in one space now, as they used to get a bit lost. So we’re really now having a big push on those brands. Dries Van Noten is my favourite brand in the world. The stuff that’s more about the badging and logos is on the main floor. We’ve also moved some of the more mass market brands, like Farah and Pretty Green, to Psyche 2 in the Cleveland Centre in the town centre. The

second shop is 4,000 square feet, and it’s been open for two and a half years. It also carries brands such as Original Penguin, EA7, Levi’s, Fila Vintage, Eastpak and Nicholas Deakins. We wanted to also be somewhere right in the centre of town, because the main Psyche store is just a bit off-pitch from the centre. And we wanted to have something that appealed to a younger customer, with a slightly lower price point, in between JD Sports and Psyche. — TB: This year marks Psyche’s 35th anniversary: did you ever envisage having such longevity, especially seeing out so many recessions over that time? SC: Well, I started off as the singer in a punk band called Sliced Tomatoes. And my first shop was called Sliced Tomatoes too. The band weren’t very good and we didn’t get anywhere, but I designed the clothes we wore, and people liked the clothes better than the music. That’s when I had the urge to do something with clothes. When I opened the shop in 1982, it was a bit of a laugh really. It was meant to help to get me fixed up with girls rather than be a proper business, because I was still young and daft – I was only 23. This is, of course, a big business now, with a boardroom and non-executive directors – the whole nine yards. It’s been an exciting, rollercoaster growth. We’ve had a lot of challenges along the way, and 2008 was the biggest challenge. That hit us quite hard. I didn’t really feel the other recessions to be honest, but that one I did. It set us back a bit and probably turned my attention away from e-commerce when I should have been getting more in to it. — TB: What plans do you have to celebrate the 35th anniversary? SC: The actual anniversary is on 1 August, but we’re going to have a big party in October – it’s a better time for everyone. We’re going to throw a lot of money at it. We’ll have a catwalk show, live bands and we’ll do food and drink – there’ll be a lot of stuff going on.

“I’ve been doing this for 35 years now, it’s Psyche’s 35th anniversary this year, and I absolutely still love it. It isn’t work to me.”


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P R O D U C T

SPORTING SUCCESS International sports fashion brand  Björn Borg  launches its a/w 17 performance collection, embracing the sport leisure trend with a range of clothing that can be used both for everyday life as well as for working out. The performance apparel uses high quality fabric, strong shapes and timeless style, creating a game changing look.  Breaking the norm,  the brand merges functional designs that are simple in execution, but high in performance. Björn Borg’s key styles for the season include a quilted program for outdoor training in polyester and cotton material that dries quicker and transports humidity.  —


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RADAR Spotlighting style DEATHLY HALLOWS The a/w 17 collection from ODX consists of 18 pieces, many of which feature a revised raglan style and panelling inspired by epaulettes. This is best seen in the tracksuit style option, which uses white reflective bands to accentuate the cut. Hooded sweatshirts incorporate variations of the same cut with a more casual fit and overlapping hood necks. Inspiration taken from the dominance of death and a coming of age theme is exemplified in a neoprene bomber jacket, featuring oversized pockets and dropped shoulders. —

NIGEL CABOURN X PEAK PERFORMANCE ESTABLISHED: 2016 SIGNATURE STYLE: Technical ski and urban wear with roots in Swedish military wear. Pieces are reinvented for the contemporary urban dresser. HISTORY: Collection inspiration was taken from Nigel Cabourn’s extensive personal archive of global army apparel. Peak Performance’s first collaboration in the brand’s 30-year history was always going to be well thought out. Known for his ability to create reimagined utilitarian workwear pieces, British designer Nigel Cabourn was the perfect choice to create a collaboration collection of technical ski and urban wear. The range consists of 20 unisex pieces, which spans from a heavy sheepskin coat to ski trousers designed for on and off the slope. The collection is a fusion of Cabourn’s focus on the Swedish military and his expertise in global army apparel, with Peak Performance’s Scandinavian outlook and use of technical fabrics within ski and outerwear. Cabourn’s extensive personal archive of army apparel was used as inspiration for the reinvented pieces. As an outerwear specialist, Cabourn was influenced by the Swedish skiing coats and the Swedish army, creating a waterproof camouflage fabric to reflect this passion. With function and sport continuing on as a big trend in street fashion, the collection with performance and military at its heart is a result of craft and the technical coming together. —

SLEEP TIGHT The a/w 17 offering from Cyberjammies Man offers three new styles in addition to its regular portfolio. The Sydney collection includes two new styles: the first is a blue geo/tile print long-sleeve pyjama top and trouser combo, made from 60 per cent modal and 40 per cent cotton. The second addition to the Sydney collection is a blue cotton ‘Superman’ print T-shirt and trouser, made from approximately 60 per cent cotton and 40 per cent modal. The third style is from the Max collection and consists of a top and trouser pyjama set in black and grey check made from approximately 50 per cent cotton and 50 per cent Lyocell. —


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PRODUCT NEWS PERFORMANCE UNDERWEAR Expanding on its existing range of underwear and knitwear, the Performance collection from Jockey is made from lightweight materials and offers the wearer seamless fabric design. Containing features such as moisture transfer technology, breathable material and cooling technology, the range is ideal for use during sport and exercise. A wide offering of prints, colours and styles within the theme of modern expressionism are presented, providing many different options. However, the collection also maintains classic features such as shape and comfort. —

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

FINE TAILORING For a/w 17 Lynch & Mason present an online capsule collection of tailored garments with a classic aesthetic. Designed and made in London, all pieces from the five-piece capsule collection are produced with luxury materials and finishes, with the aim of saving the customer from having to make alterations. The capsule collection includes a pure cashmere double breasted coat in camel, a 50 per cent wool and 50 per cent cashmere navy single breasted coat and charcoal wool tailored trousers. A cotton shirt and merino wool double breasted blazer finishes off the collection nicely. —

HIKER BOOT BY WOOLRICH The Hiker Boot from Woolrich presents strong design and attention to detail, while also maintaining comfort and a lightweight construction. Traditional leathers and technical materials are fused together to create a contemporary piece of footwear, reinterpreted through modern construction techniques. The overall result combines outdoor and urban elements: the brand’s two central themes within its latest collection. —


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BELLFIELD £14.29 0844 477 4856

TOMMY HILFIGER PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3144 0900

ORIGINAL PENGUIN £29 0800 031 9160

LUKE £38 01869 366580

BJÖRN BORG £22 020 7637 1395

ZIP IT A key trend for 2017 is the hybrid of sportswear and tailoring. From the likes of Burberry and Paul Smith, the key to wearing this season’s zip-up track top is to team it under a semi-formal coat or blazer, making it the statement piece of the outfit. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale DIGEL WEEKEND OFFENDER £26 01332 342068

KAPPA £22.50 0161 393 9451

MERC £20 020 8838 2444


MIDLANDS, SOUTH AND CHANNEL ISLANDS SIMON BEARD Phone: 079 32 172944 Email: simonbeard3@aol.com WALES, NORTH, CHESHIRE, SCOTLAND ROB DAVIES Phone: 077 87 79 38 63 Email: rabcharl@freenetname.co.uk

DIGEL.DE

MODA, NEC BIRMINGHAM 19.02.  21.02.2017 HALL 19, STAND M29


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CP COMPANY £35 020 7608 9100

BURBERRY PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3367 3000

GEORG JENSEN PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8749 5650

THE EDIT Accessories and lifestyle products to complement your store’s offer. — TOM DIXON RRP £145 020 7183 9733

FOLK £17 020 7404 6458

GANT PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7201 2900

ALEXIS DOVE PRICE ON REQUEST 01273 470538

VIFA HELSINKI RRP £319 SALES@VIFA.DK


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BEST PERFORMANCE Italian lifestyle brand Geox recently released impressive growth figures, with the UK in particular proving one of its strongest export markets. With a core offer of footwear alongside high spec outerwear, the brand continues to expand, and 2017 is set to be an even bigger year for the label. Isabella Griffiths caught up with UK country manager James Portman to find out more. —

When James Portman took on the job as UK country manager for Italian brand Geox some 18 months or so ago, his main task – or challenge, as some might say – was very clear: to put Geox on the UK map and position the footwear label alongside other leading brands. Portman was no stranger to the footwear sector, having previously worked as global head of footwear and then main board director for footwear and accessories at Lyle & Scott, and before that as head of European operations at Clarks. “I was very aware of Geox before I joined the company, and I had always wondered why they weren’t bigger in the UK, as they are massive in other markets. I felt that it was a brand that

should be more prominent at point of sale, so this was what I set out to do,” he says. “Funnily enough, a lot of people in the UK saw Geox mainly as a kids’ footwear brand, and until I joined, this was the main UK business. I would say that on the kidswear side, we are probably in over 90 per cent of the stores we should be and want to be in; that’s not the case on the adult ranges, so we’ve strengthened our sales team and are actively driving the growth of this sector,” he adds. This strategy seems to be working, as Geox’s latest financial figures show impressive growth, with the UK specifically having achieved a 20 per cent increase on the wholesale side over the last two seasons – the group’s wholesale sales overall saw 11.3 per cent growth – making it one of Geox’s

top export markets alongside China and Russia. According to Portman, it’s the product itself that is accelerating this growth, with Geox’s USP based around its unique breathable and waterproof membranes and high performance features, with over 60 different patents registered in Italy and internationally to give Geox its high-tech characteristics. As Portman explains: “I’m a big believer that the product is the main driver of growth. We are fashionable, not high fashion, we never will be or aspire to be that, but it is of course important to combine the technical aspect of the footwear with fashion elements that are relevant to the consumer,” he says. “Five or six years ago, Geox felt very European, sometimes just missing the mark. But


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we are more involved in the product selection and product development now, and parts of the range are specifically developed for the UK.” He adds: “On the adult side, we are probably more known for our sneakers. The current athleisure trend is great for us, and all indicators point to the fact that this trend is not going away any time soon. That plays to our heritage; we have huge collections, and over 50 per cent of the range is currently sneakers, so our athleisure sales are really strong.” Though Geox is essentially a footwear brand, the range has been expanded to include an apparel division, with selected outerwear styles complementing the footwear. While distribution of this is still relatively new, in the UK apparel already amounts to 14 per cent of overall sales, not least thanks to the appointment of UK agency Partners in Fashion to represent Geox’s clothing. “Monika and Chris Bartscht [owners of Partners in Fashion] are great brand ambassadors for us; they have been wearing Geox for many years before we even worked with them, and really believe in the product. They also have a central London showroom, which was important to us, and a large network of active retailers with national coverage. It’s an ideal partnership,” says Portman. The apparel collection focuses on outerwear styles that offer the same breathable and waterproof qualities as the footwear, synchronising well with the brand’s core DNA. “The aim for the apparel range is to be around 20 per cent of the Geox business. This is achievable, as the range now purely focuses on outerwear styles and is doing well. Geox tried the total look

before and had a broader ready-to-wear offer, Own stores are another part of the strategy but it didn’t work. The outerwear, however, is a going forward. Globally Geox operates 1,161 great extension of the Geox brand and is very stores, and currently Geox has eight stores in the cohesive with the technical features of the shoes; UK, all of which are in London. This is set to be that’s why it’s successful,” Portman explains. expanded to key cities outside of the capital, While the footwear collections have including Birmingham, Manchester, Leeds and traditionally been sold through specialist stores, Glasgow to ensure a more balanced geographical and the apparel range through Geox’s own stores representation. and fashion boutiques, there is an increased and Portman is keen to stress, however, that intentional crossover between the two, with a wholesale will remain the main route to market in growing number of fashion indies also stocking the UK, and that any new store openings are selected Geox footwear styles, and footwear there to aid with brand visibility and ultimately specialists dabbing in the apparel. It’s a welcome support the wholesale network. “Having own synergy, and one of the side effects of working stores gives us the opportunity to show off the with Partners in Fashion. “Placing footwear in full scale of the Geox product range, including fashion stores and the outerwear in footwear the outerwear alongside the footwear, and it’s works well for us, as it gives us context, and this is great to boost the visibility of the brand on something we’re looking to facilitate more going consumer level, which benefits our stockists. forward. Moda, where we show again this season, Essentially the retail business is there to drive the works well for us in this respect, as we can wholesale business,” explains Portman. showcase the shoes alongside the apparel and E-commerce has also seen huge growth for show the whole scale of Geox���s lifestyle offer,” Geox globally, which increased by 30 per cent Portman says. last year on group level, which Currently Geox is stocked “I don’t think we have Portman also sees as another in 360 doors, including key strategic distribution channel exhausted all accounts such as John Lewis, for Geox UK. “The market is but Portman feels there is still changing so fast, particularly potential points of room for more. “I don’t think we through the expansion of online, sale yet, but we are have exhausted all potential not just our own website, but points of sale yet, but we are not opening accounts also those of our stockists. As a not opening accounts brand, we therefore have to stay aggressively either. aggressively either. We have to fluid and flexible,” he says. “The be in the right stores and with We have to be in the high street will continue to the right customers, otherwise change, and we will continue to right stores and with adapt.” it won’t work. It’s about considered, organic growth.” the right customers, —

otherwise it won’t work. It’s about considered, organic growth.”


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t

Stanley 01225 789909 www.wildandwolf.com

u

Woodstylz info@woodstylz.com www.woodstylz.com u

Duncan Walton 01727 859929 www.duncanwalton.co.uk

uu

Baxter of California 07825 599713 www.aandbsupply.co.uk

TOP DRAWER London’s largest gift, craft and home fair, Top Drawer, presented a strong selection of menswear this season, from grooming products to accessories. MWB was on hand throughout the three-day event to pick some of its highlights. — t

Monc London 07595 454590 www.monclondon.com p

Newgate 01691 679994 www.newgateclocks.com

t

Rains 07598 710626 www.rains.dk tt

Gentleman’s Hardware 01225 789909 www.wildandwolf.com


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2017 RETAIL TRENDS Craig Smith, VP of Solutions and Customer Success at Amplience, a leading digital content provider, takes a look at the consumer trends influencing the industry landscape this year. —

Understanding and adapting to consumer trends within the retail industry can help a business to flourish. In this feature I take a look at five key movements set to dominate 2017, from social media shopping to the rise and rise of personalisation. But first, let’s begin with the mass move to mobile. New mobile payment methods took the retail sector by storm in 2016, with Apple Pay allowing consumers to pay for their goods with just a touch of a finger. Through the holiday shopping season and into next year, we’ll see shoppers shift from simply browsing, to

completing the entire shopping journey on their mobile devices. The attention span of shoppers is dwindling so people are increasingly turning to mobile shopping for its convenience and speed. Currently around 50 per cent of shopping is done on mobile and this is only set to rise in 2017 as people are finding fewer reasons to shop in physical stores. Many retailers are struggling to adapt to this new shopping habit and aren’t creating engaging apps or content; this must be a focus in the coming months in order to keep at the front of shoppers’ minds. Expect to see fashion retailers

upping the ante and transforming their mobile apps into a rich and enticing experience rather than a convenient ‘nice to have’. Currently, 87 per cent of mobile owners are using apps but only 3 per cent of these are retail apps. The app market is a crowded space but there is a great opportunity in the year ahead for retailers to embrace the appetite for mobile. Social networks, meanwhile, have taken ‘fast fashion’ to the next level. If a celebrity is spotted wearing a covetable item on social media, fashion retailers must design, source and get it up on their site within weeks in order to stay relevant.


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This trend is only set to continue in 2017 as the likes of Facebook and Instagram experiment with new ways to get shoppers clicking the buy button. Retailers need to become more agile by streamlining their infrastructure in order to keep up with the demands of today’s fast fashion. By rethinking their approach to content production, retailers can keep up with the influx of content and stay fresh, up-to-date and relevant. Charlotte Tilbury is proof of the power social media holds over today’s retail landscape. Born out of her YouTube make-up tutorials, she grew her brand through Twitter and blogging, gaining a loyal following in the process. Today, Charlotte Tilbury is the second most popular brand in the Selfridges Group, overtaking traditional brands that have been frontrunners for years. Other retailers should follow suit and find their audiences in the places where they look for inspiration online in order to capture their hearts and wallets. The next 12 months may also see a decline in department stores. Marketplaces are conquering the retail sector at an alarming rate. The juggernauts Amazon, Alibaba and eBay are posing a threat to mass merchants, and the bad news for them is that marketplaces are here to stay. It is anticipated that global marketplaces will own 39 per cent of the online retail market in

2020. Once their key differentiator, department stores are no longer able to compete on range, and many have forgotten the art of curating and bespoke service. If department stores want to re-establish themselves, they should think less about price and volume, and more about brand and customer engagement. Selfridges is a prime example of a department store fully embracing cutting-edge retail technology. In 2016, it debuted a shoppable app including a ‘shop-by-Instagram’ functionality, using self-generated content as a means to drive sales. In 2017 we’re likely to see other stores following Selfridges’ lead in providing variety in combination with a tailored experience. Missguided is an example of an online retailer fusing the online and instore experience to create an immersive shopping experience. Its newly opened physical store encourages shoppers to Instagram and Snapchat their experience, placing reminders and hashtags throughout the shop floor to create a social buzz. Personalisation, meanwhile, is widely recognised by retailers as a key driver of sales, yet many are still failing to execute effective strategies. Previously, this was understandable given the fine line between bespoke deals and an overbearing retailer bombarding the shopper with too much information. Yet in 2017, with the

tools available to retailers, there should be a dramatic departure from shooting blind. Aside from the ethics of personalisation, the cost of content production is spiralling. With the number of channels to communicate with customers growing, serving highly relevant content becomes much harder. To top it off, production costs are escalating in line with the need to cater to mobile and multiple markets, making it harder for retailers to be agile. In 2017 and the coming years retailers must focus on streamlining their infrastructure to allow for smooth-running omnichannel personalisation. As the Internet of Things (IoT) continues to creep into our everyday lives, retailers have more opportunities to provide customers with informed recommendations by gathering more information from a range of devices. We are going to see fridges telling consumers when they are out of milk and existing smart home technology, such as the Amazon Dash Button, becoming more advanced and widely used. It’s time retailers fully embrace the opportunities they have to provide customers with a bespoke experience and engage with them to deliver the best messages at times when the customer is most receptive. Last but certainly not least, what consumers are looking for in a shopping journey is convenience. Retailers shouldn’t lose sight of this, but should instead make this a priority for customer engagement strategies in 2017. Sameday delivery has become the norm thanks to Amazon Prime, yet promises of delivery within the hour come with a hefty price and demand a highly developed infrastructure. Many brands are failing to profit on their products by simply trying to replicate Amazon’s promise. What customers really want is a slick and seamless checkout regardless of the device. Retailers need to work on making the online experience, from browsing right down to the delivery, as smooth as an in-store purchase would be – without the queuing, of course. Customers have high expectations, and this is only set to grow. Retailers must step up in order to avoid basket abandonment at the final hurdle. In the coming year, we’ll see retailers turning to methods that smooth the purchase process and draw in customers without bending over backwards to slash delivery times. Whilst Apple Pay has paved the way for online payments, the checkout experience is still holding back conversion on mobile devices. In 2017 retailers should spend less energy on elaborate fads and hone in on what the shopper really wants. — Craig Smith is VP of Solutions and Customer Success at Amplience, a leading digital content provider that works with retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Tumi, JD, Mulberry, Halfords, Shop Direct and Panasonic to manage digital content and enhance the online customer experience. For more information, visit www.amplience.com.


LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | REVIEW | 34

BEN SHERMAN

JOHN SMEDLEY

BLOOD BROTHER

SIBLING

XANDER ZHOU

YMC

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

LOU DALTON

The inaugural edition under its new name, London Fashion Week Men’s opened its doors to international buyers, bloggers and press alike across its four-day schedule. MWB captured the essential trends to consider in store this coming a/w 17. — LIAM HODGES

BOBBY ABLEY

MOSS SIDE

LOUD & PROUD

With the launch of Greenery as Pantone’s colour of the year – a tone which is utilised through the fashion, interiors and design industry – it was no surprise to see green used in so many a/w 17 collections. Darker tones such as forest and moss were seen in everyday staples such as bomber jackets at Ben Sherman, knitwear at John Smedley and suede wrap jackets at Xander Zhou. Khaki shades, meanwhile, were spotted on military-inspired pieces at Liam Hodges and YMC, both featuring loose fitting five pocket trousers. —

For the likes of Bobby Abley and Sibling, shying away from colour and prints has never really been in their forte. So it’s no surprise that statement jumpers dominated London catwalks. From cartoon illustrations at Bobby Abley to bold geometric prints at Sibling, Blood Brother and Lou Dalton, this trend is one to stand out from the crowd. Over at Christopher Shannon, meanwhile, neon featured throughout, teamed with black in a sharp contrast. —


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | REVIEW | 35

ASTRID ANDERSEN

BERTHOLD

RICHARD JAMES

SIBLING

ASTRID ANDERSEN

TOPMAN

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY

MAHARISHI

SONGZIO

AGI & SAM X THE WOOLMARK COMPANY

LIAM HODGES

BOBBY ABLEY

SONGZIO

YMC

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

TOUCH ME

BOMB SHELTER

RUNNING TRACK

If there was one sense set to be heightened during LFWM it was touch, as texture played a key role in many designer collections. One of the more popular textures was a rich velvet, from dressing gown style cover-ups at Edward Crutchley to full tracksuits at Astrid Andersen. Berthold, meanwhile, chose full leather co-ordinates, while Maharishi offered a selection of kimono-inspired tracksuits in embroidered silk. Finally, fur outerwear was spotted at Songzio, showcasing textured options fitting for winter. —

Now defined as a seasonal favourite, the bomber jacket returns for a/w 17, with many designers from classic to contemporary offering their own version. Volume played a big part in updating the wardrobe classic, with designers such as Songzio and Agi & Sam presenting oversized silhouettes. Printed bombers, meanwhile, reigned king at Sibling, while more traditional options in muted colours and featuring rounded collars and zip fastenings were spotted at YMC and Richard James. —

Perhaps suited more to the slightly younger male shopper, there’s no getting away from the fact that full tracksuits are set to dominate a/w 17. Athleisure was the buzzword of 2016 when it came to fashion, and this year seems to be no different as the likes of Christopher Shannon, Bobby Abley, Liam Hodges and Astrid Andersen showcased 90s inspired jogging bottoms and matching sweats. Topman followed suit with a summer-appropriate neon printed shorts and sweater set, signalling this might not be the last season we see this trend. —


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | REVIEW | 36

PITTI PEACOCKS MWB captures the sartorial sharpness in the grounds of the Fortezza da Basso, Florence, at this season’s Pitti Uomo 91. —


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | REVIEW | 37

Although there were certainly the usual avant-garde peacocks proudly showing off their wardrobe choices throughout the show – and let’s face it, it wouldn’t be Pitti Uomo without these – it was the more classic of looks that really caught the attention of the photographers in and around the Fortezza da Basso. From camel outerwear to full navy looks, denim workwear, velvet blazers to traditional three pieces, inspiration was around every corner. Aside from bold injections of the likes of magenta, mustard and orange, colours were muted, while monk strap shoes and chukka boots dominated footwear choices.


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | REVIEW | 38

PRODUCTS FROM PITTI From heritage labels, through to sportswear and contemporary designers, Pitti Uomo offered an abundance of menswear brands at its 91st edition. Here MWB showcases its product highlights. —

HUNTER

p

GRENFELL

ANTONY MORATO

p

p

British Wellington boot brand Hunter presented its Core Concept, a seasonless collection of apparel, footwear and accessories sitting under the Hunter Original umbrella. Designed on the principles of protection, Core Concept highlights the very essence of the brand through a range of weatherproof product and existing icons, in a rich, kaleidoscopic colour palette. Core Concept pop-ups, meanwhile, are set to be launching at some of Hunter’s key wholesale partners including La Rinascente Milan and Hinka Rinka Tokyo.

Established in 1923, Grenfell began as a ‘wonderfabric’ developed specifically to meet the outerwear needs of explorer and missionary doctor, Sir Wilfred Grenfell. Over the following decades, Grenfell was worn by British royalty, legends of motorsports, mountaineers, adventurers, outdoorsmen and style icons. Donald Campbell MBE wore Grenfell racing suits while setting records on both land and water: the spirit of this association is captured in the Grenfell x Bluebird collection.

Antony Morato draws inspiration from the earth, water, air and fire for a/w 17, split across the brand’s subdivisions. The Black collection merges military style with glamorous touches, fur inserts and woollen embroidery. Shades of sea water blue through to gradations of grey inspire the Gold collection. Minimal details and contrasting inserts enrich a style based on rigorous cuts. Finally, air is the essence of the Silver collection. The details and technical fabrics acquire a purely stylistic dimension, which is outlined with a sport and urban context.

R.M. WILLIAMS p

PS BY PAUL SMITH

PANTHERELLA

Inspired by the mid-century era in Australian history, the latest R.M. Williams collection not only comprises footwear but for the first time apparel. Designed by Savile Row-trained Jeremy Hershan, the collection blends the brand’s iconic outback DNA and rugged elegance with inspirations from Australian impressionist art, photography and the landscape. Key pieces include selvedge denim, moleskin jeans in Australian woven fabric, double pocket work shirts and a reimagined drover’s jacket, crafted from premium British waxed cotton.

PS by Paul Smith made its debut for a/w 17 in Florence last month. With all the hallmarks of the British fashion designer – bold colour, vivid print and playful detailing – the collection is strongly influenced by sportswear and Smith’s love of cycling. Each piece is easy-care, lightweight, waterproof, durable, reflective, breathable and packable. Classic cycling jerseys and the colourblock artwork of Poul Gernes influenced this season’s colour palette, while the styling is a blend of sportswear and tailoring to the influential Buffalo movement of the 80s, led by Ray Petri.

p

p

The new year sees British sock specialist Pantherella celebrate its 80th anniversary, with all designs in the a/w 17 collection featuring a special, limited edition band. The new range draws on the bright and bold colours of sunrise and sunset, as well as cool winter hues that reflect shorter, colder days. For those who like their socks to make a bold style statement, the Modern Collection hints at aspects of contemporary art with bold geometric graphics, playful spot and stripe combinations, as well as on-trend treatments of traditional patterns.


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | SHOW GUIDE | 41

MODA UK 19-21 FEBRUARY 2017 NEC, BIRMINGHAM Your essential guide to the brands to catch and the seminars to watch this a/w 17 edition of Moda UK. —

>>>


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | MODA GENT | 42

MODA GENT NEW SIGNINGS With a roster of brand new names spanning apparel, accessories and grooming products added to its already comprehensive offering, the latest edition of Moda Gent is set to whet buying appetites for a/w 17. — SOLID Hailing from Denmark and characterised by street-worthy denim, Solid makes its Moda debut with three distinctive lines for a/w 17. The Denim Journey, Street Apparel and Urban Supply make up the autumn offer, inspired by rockabilly styling, quirky, sports-influenced silhouettes and New Yorker style respectively. UPPERCUT DELUXE Moda Gent will host live demonstrations and a new concept in male grooming as Uppercut Deluxe arrives at the show this season. The brand – which has a cult following among barbers, male models and consumers alike – will unveil its latest range as part of an exclusive appearance. SILVARRIE WALKWAY Accessory label Silvarrie Walkway displays unparalleled quality in craftsmanship and attention to detail. With a strong trend-led design ethos, the collection comprises wallets, travel cases, backpacks, passport holders, messenger bags and duffle bags. CUFFSCOLLARS Brand new launch CuffsCollars will debut at Moda, revealing an effortless new direction in contemporary menswear. Established in November 2016, the London label offers premium quality menswear at a price accessible to retailers. The brand will debut within Edit, Moda Gent’s dedicated area for upand-coming and niche labels, exhibiting a range of menswear, some of which is available for delivery within a week. CG CLUB OF GENTS Under the direction of UK agency Double H Agency, CG Club of Gents is the younger, more trend-led sister label to Carl Gross. The a/w 17 collection derives its influence not so much from sports and athleisure trends, but more from 90s Britpop. PRINGLE British sock label Pringle will showcase its menswear collection for the first time at Moda Gent this season. With a varied and full offer of hosiery, buyers can expect premium quality and the brand’s characteristic eye-catching prints and weaves. ARC MINUTE Arc Minute is a contemporary menswear brand offering young men stylish and good quality clothing for a competitive price. The brand strives to create a better world by giving customers an ability to give back to the community and to people that are less fortunate. BRUNO SAINT HILAIRE Returning to the UK market for a/w 17, French lifestyle label Bruno Saint Hilaire – renowned for its trouser designs – has chosen Moda Gent for its debut. Looking to open a number of select accounts this season, the brand will showcase its full range of tailoring and accessories, including the mix and match suit, which is durable and washable. SURF PERIMETERS Surf Perimeters is a premium surf lifestyle brand connecting city and surf. Capturing the ever-increasing outdoor lifestyle demographic, Surf Perimeters aims to create apparel that captures the spirit of surf while being wearable in all other walks of life. HAZE AND FINN Established in 2014, Haze and Finn is a menswear label designed in Antwerp. Playing homage to the Northern Star with its logo design, the brand’s core values are authenticity and timeless design. Making its Moda debut, the new collection features a comprehensive offer of stretch and easy iron shirts. —

SOLID... STAND J29

SILVARRIE WALKWAY... STAND P30

CUFFSCOLLARS... STAND K41


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | MODA GENT | 43

| UPPERCUT DELUXE... STAND K50

BRUNO ST HILAIRE... STAND N40

| CG CLUB OF GENTS... STAND M3

| PRINGLE... STAND P26

| ARC MINUTE... STAND K40

| SURF PERIMETERS... STAND K40

| HAZE AND FINN... STAND M2

>>>


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | MODA GENT | 44

MODA GENT RETURNING With a comprehensive offer spanning tailoring, shirting, trousers, casual and outerwear, Moda Gent welcomes back some of the biggest names within the menswear industry. MWB picks its highlights to catch this season. — FYNCH HATTON The latest collection from Fynch Hatton comprises shirts, knitwear, jeans, chinos, sweats, shoes, jackets and accessories. New yarns are used across the line and include a fine 26 gauge fabric. The brand also uses merino and pure cashmere, sometimes blending the two. Colours in the collection range from sand to rust and navy. DIDRIKSONS Swedish outerwear brand Didriksons offers a range which fuses influences from the west coast of Sweden and the Shetland Isles. Inspired by the extreme weather of these areas, items in the collection offer protection in cold and wet climates, while also following current trends. Highlights include the Ture and Leif jackets and the Ellis parka, as well as new options in the Galon range. BLACKSPADE The Blackspade range encompasses five collections: Silver, Mood Lite, Stripes, Colours and Tender Cotton Lite. The underwear brand offers many different options, from an abundance of colours to standout prints. Fabrics are well considered, as seen in the Silver range. Manufactured from mainly modal fabric, items in this line are made by spinning reconstituted cellulose from beech trees. OLYMP The Olymp a/w 17 collection sees the introduction of prints inspired by tapestry, new graphics and modern paisleys. New fabric updates come in the form of a cotton/cashmere blend, boiled wool with slub effects and tweed fused with contemporary structures. CAMEL ACTIVE The a/w 17 collection presents a focus on functionality, while touching on hunter and military aesthetics. Ergonomic silhouettes work with lighter jackets, which have fibre fill instead of the usual down. The highlight of the collection is a two-inone travel jacket made from multi-functional materials including welded seams and a camouflage inner jacket. MAC Trouser specialist Mac presents a comprehensive collection of trouser and denim designs this season. The denim category, for example, sees the addition of new washes and silhouettes as well as appliqué detailing and oversized turn-ups. ETERNA Eterna presents both formal and casual lines in its latest range. Both line have paid attention to a greater demand for functional fabrics. As a result, jersey and bi-elastic materials are used across the range of shirts. Cosiness is reflected in soft fabrics such as lightweight flannels with a cashmere feel. KNIGHTSBRIDGE Returning to Moda Gent once more is British accessory specialist Knightsbridge. The new collection is set to be the brand’s most comprehensive yet, from traditional wedding wardrobe additions such as plain woven silk ties and plain woven silk pocket squares, through to more contemporary, fashion led cotton scarves, floral prints and statement braces. DIGEL The Menswear Concept is the latest collection from Digel, which presents completely coordinated outfits. This season, the brand launches its own range of shoes, which also coordinate with the outfits. The collection is divided into two colour themes, grey and blue, and covers jerseys, knitwear, jackets, suits and scarves. CASAMODA For a/w 17 Casamoda takes inspiration from the cities and landscapes of Sweden. Colours are inspired by Lapland’s eight seasons per year, with a focus around different shades of red. A selection of sport tops, shirts and knitwear reflect masculine design through minimal prints, simplistic aesthetics and plain structures. —

FYNCH HATTON... STAND M60

DIDRIKSONS... STAND P41

BLACKSPADE... STAND LB17

| OLYMP... STAND L30


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | MODA GENT | 45

CAMEL ACTIVE... STAND L60

| ETERNA... STAND N52

KNIGHTSBRIDGE... STAND L2

| MAC... STAND K28

| DIGEL... STAND M29

| CASAMODA SPORTS... STAND M39

>>>


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | MODA GENT | 46

DOUGLAS... STAND L20

| BEN SHERMAN... STAND M21

SKOPES... STAND N30

| TRESANTI... STAND N51

| BRITISH BOXERS.. STAND N52

DOUGLAS With a move towards a more contemporary look and feel, Douglas uses a mix of geometric, check and abstract designs in its latest collection. Meanwhile, core masculine colours include navy, greys and blues fused with dashes of burgundy and warming earth tones. For the next season, the brand continues its popular slim and tapered fits in suits and jackets. BEN SHERMAN The theme of the a/w 17 collection is Spirit of the Mod, which plays on Ben Sherman’s heritage. Items such as The Army Parka, a 100 per cent wool fishtail parka, are inspired by previous collection pieces. Influenced by the military, signature fabrics include hardwearing British Army wool cloth, shearling wool, wax cotton and worsted wool. SKOPES The a/w 17 offering from Skopes presents tailored fitting statement jackets, overcoats and tweed blazers with heritage inspired linings. Optional waistcoats are available for mix and match purposes, as is an expanded range of suits featuring brushed tweeds and dogtooth checks. Stretch waist chinos and soft cotton needle cord trousers come in earthy neutral tones. TRESANTI The a/w 17 offer from men’s lifestyle brand Tresanti includes 100 per cent cotton shirts in a choice of slim and basic fits. The collection also offers a comprehensive range of ties, mainly in silk; scarves, in soft and lightweight viscose or cashmere; leather belts; gloves, in wool or leather; socks, in combinations of wool and cotton or wool and silk; leather goods in the form of bags and wallets; and cufflinks, pants and hats. BRITISH BOXERS Founded in 2013, British Boxers is a premium underwear and nightwear label, made completely in the UK. Founded by Debbie Price and named after her great, great, great grandfather, the first World Heavyweight boxing champion Jem Mace, the label is definitely one to watch this season. Featuring two-fold cottons, brushed cotton flannels and piping details, it’s clear to see quality and luxury are at the core of the brand.

>>>


Exhibiting @ MODA, Birmingham 19th-21st February 2017 Stand J18 FIVE FOOTWEAR RANGES | 100+ FOOTWEAR STYLES | SINGLE PAIR REPLENISHMENT

admin@nps-solovair.co.uk | +44 (0) 1933 664 207 | www.nps-solovair.co.uk

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HANDCRAFTED FOOTWEAR MADE IN ENGLAND SINCE 1881


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | MODA FOOTWEAR | 48

MODA FOOTWEAR The UK’s national footwear show showcases a comprehensive range of men’s styles, offering buyers the chance to buy cohesively across the sectors. —

SIMPLE New to Moda Footwear, Simple is a US sneaker brand with a laid-back style. Blending 60s and 70s cultural influences with its Californian roots, Simple has stirred the minds of a generation since it was established in 1991 with sports-inspired, casual footwear. BARKER Long-established men’s footwear specialist Barker blends traditional Northamptonshire shoe-making with contemporary British styling. Look out for classic shapes on Goodyear-welted soles in a range of uppers from highly polished to burnished, with the occasional eccentric twist or colour pop to add interest. CHATHAM Having evolved from its roots as a marine label, Chatham offers an all year-round collection of footwear designed for the great outdoors. This season also sees the brand continue with its new Made in Britain line, which comprises key styles proudly made at the brand’s headquarters in Exeter. NERO GIARDINI New to Moda Footwear, Nero Giardini is a leader in its field across Europe. Renowned for its lifestyle shoes that are proudly made in Italy, the brand offers a distinctive men’s collection characterised by refined style and everyday wearability. CAT FOOTWEAR As a global leader in footwear, Cat Footwear is renowned amongst consumers and retailers alike for its cuttingedge performance properties. This season sees the label return to Moda with a rugged selection of men’s boots, inspired by industrial workwear but designed for the everyday lifestyle. SOLLU Returning to Moda for its third season, Sollu beings Brazilian quality to the UK footwear market. Having been established for over 23 years, the brand is an expert in traditional Brazilian manufacture, and introduces a certain flair through its effortless South American DNA. ANATOMIC & CO Anatomic & Co has carved a niche for itself since its inception in 2004 when its Brazilian founders spotted a gap in the market for high quality but accessibly priced footwear. The brand has since diversified its offer from 10 styles to 90, each of which is designed in the UK and handcrafted in Brazil. DUDE SHOES British footwear brand Dude Shoes offers a collection that looks deceptively laid-back in its styling, with a construction that is uniquely sophisticated. In a bid to create the utmost comfort, the brand stripped its design back to basics and incorporated patented sole technology into its signature EVA base. EVES & GRAY Back for its second season following a successful debut in August, Eves & Gray is characterised by its distinctive purple soles, intriguing style and high quality design. The brand has already been picked up by bloggers on both side of the Atlantic, and it continues to carve a niche for itself with its slightly off-beat style. GOODWIN SMITH Based on the philosophy of creating shoes that transcend easily from work to play, Goodwin Smith is a brand targeting ambitious and aspirational young men. Brogues are key to the collection, in a range of on-trend colourways from contrast laces to burnished uppers. —

SIMPLE... STAND G38

BARKER... STAND I11

NERO GIARDINI... STAND B28

| CHATHAM... STAND J10


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | MODA FOOTWEAR | 49

SOLLU... STAND D21

ANATOMIC & CO... STAND I29

| CAT FOOTWEAR... STAND I19

| EVES & GRAY... STAND F62

| DUDE SHOES... STAND I2

| GOODWIN SMITH... STAND J50

>>>


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | MODA WHAT’S ON | 50

WHAT’S ON AT MODA As the main event of the fashion season, Moda offers more than just product. A comprehensive seminar programme, live catwalk events and social gatherings bring professionals together as part of one industry hub to launch the season in style. For footwear professionals, this season’s Footwear Industry Awards are an unmissable event. Organised by Datateam and taking place on the Sunday evening of the show, the Footwear Industry Awards recognise talent across both retailers and suppliers. This season sees the black tie event take place at the National Conference Centre in Birmingham with a three-course dinner. Find out more and register at www.footwearindustryawards.com. Buyers and exhibitors alike are invited to this season’s Monday night after party at the elegant Highline venue within the NEC’s Resorts World Complex. Conveniently located just moments away from the halls, the event welcomes visitors with a happy hour from 8pm, elevating the business of buying to new heights for the evening. Those in the menswear trade are also invited to Skopes Happy Hour, taking place from 5pm until 6pm on both the Sunday and the Monday. Join the leading menswear label to raise a toast to the season on the Gent plaza, and enjoy the relaxing vibe of a professional jazz trio. —

CATWALK THEATRE HALL 18 Sunday 19 February 10.00 - 10.30 Gent catwalk 11.15 - 11.45 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 12.30 - 13.00 Gent catwalk 13.45 - 14.15 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 15.00 - 15.30 Gent catwalk 16.15 - 16.45 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 18.00 - 18.30 Gent catwalk & drinks Monday 20 February 10.00 - 10.30 Gent catwalk 11.15 - 11.45 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 12.30 - 13.00 Gent catwalk 13.45 - 14.15 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 15.00 - 15.30 Gent catwalk 17.00 - 17.30 Footwear & Accessories catwalk Tuesday 21 February 10.30 - 11.00 Gent catwalk 12.30 - 13.00 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 13.45 - 14.15 Gent catwalk

CATWALK THEATRE HALL 20 Sunday 19 February 10.00 - 10.30 Moda Woman catwalk 11.15 - 11.45 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 12.30 - 13.00 Moda White catwalk 13.45 - 14.15 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 15.00 - 15.30 Moda Woman catwalk 16.15 - 16.45 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 17.00 - 17.30 Moda White catwalk 18.00 - 18.30 Moda Woman catwalk & drinks Monday 20 February 10.00 - 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.15 - 11.45 Moda Woman catwalk 12.30 - 13.00 Moda White catwalk 13.45 - 14.15 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 15.00 - 15.30 Moda Woman catwalk 16.00 - 16.30 Moda White catwalk 17.00 - 17.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Tuesday 21 February 10.30 - 11.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.15 - 11.45 Moda Woman catwalk 12.30 - 13.00 Moda White catwalk 13.45 - 14.15 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk

SEMINAR PROGRAMME - HALL 18 Sunday 19 February 10.30 - 11.00: Timing is everything. Be on the ball & get your message out there. (Nathan Rous, NPR) 11.45 - 12.15: Transform your business with social media. (Laura Brown & Peter Andrews, Introtweet) 13.00 - 13.30: Generate your sales with e-marketing. (Jon Tromans) 15.30 - 16.00: Don’t lag behind - PR is more visual than ever. (Nathan Rous, NPR) Monday 20 February 10.30 - 11.00: How music brings your brand to life (Karen Campbell, PRS for Music & Jack Schneider, Accent) 13.00 - 13.30: Instagram marketing dos and don’ts. (Caner Veli, Liquiproof) 14.15 - 14.45: Trend Report - Menswear & Footwear (Fiona Coleman) 15.30 - 16.00: Online marketing - Why one size will never fit all. (Adela Poplikova, Microsoft) 16.15 - 16.45: Rethink your marketing (Jim Jordan, Jim Jordan Consultancy) Tuesday 21 February NEW BUSINESS TUESDAY 11.45 - 12.15: Social media for fashion retailers - The basics. (Holly Peacock-Goodwin, OPR) 13.00 - 13.30: Fashion Retail Academy - Making the figures work (Paul Ward, Associate Lecturer) 14.15 - 14.45: How independent retailers can thrive in the first 12 months. (Rachel Peterman, Carousel & Co.) SEMINAR PROGRAMME - HALL 20 Sunday 19 February 10.30 - 11.00: Transform your business with social media (Laura Brown & Peter Andrews, Introtweet) 13.00 - 13.30: The future of your online customer (Warren Knight, Think Digital First) 14.15 - 14.45: Strength in numbers - Q&A Session with Sarah Arnesen, British Independent Retailers Association 15.30 - 16.00: Blogging for the fashion industry. (Jon Tromans) Monday 20 February 11.45 - 12.15: The future of your online customer (Warren Knight, Think Digital First) 13.00 - 13.30: Trend Report - Womenswear & Accessories (Fiona Coleman) 14.15 - 14.45: Online marketing - Why one size will never fit all. (Adela Poplikova, Microsoft) Tuesday 21 February NEW BUSINESS TUESDAY 13.00 - 13.30: Influencer outreach - The new type of blogger. (Holly Peacock-Goodwin, OPR) 14.15 - 14.45: Best practice around multichannel for independents.(Dan Conboy, Statement Agency) Information correct at time of going to press.


THIS FALL

IS

MY

WINTER

HOMETOWN

2017

COLLECTION

WWW.JOCKEY.CO.UK

VISIT JOCKEY AT MODA 19-21 FEBRUARY

stand O38


KEY ACCOUNTS DAVID ALEMBICK TEL: +44 (0) 7768 345507 Office: +44 (0) 1767 682969 Email: dalembi@hotmail.com Website: www.dalembi.co.uk

NEC Birmingham 19th - 21st February 2017 Hall 19, Stand N20

Bill Corsi UK Sales Manager Mobile: +44 (0) 7714 743361 Email: bill@corsi.freeserve.co.uk


MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017 | PROFILE | 53

FARAH JEANS OUT TO FILL MIDDLE GAP Autumn/winter 2017 sees the second collection of the Farah Jeans line, which the brand believes will fill a large gap in the middle market not catered for by the younger, more contemporary main line, nor the Farah Classic offer geared towards the more mature customers. Tom Bottomley hears the strategy from Farah Brand Director, Mark McCann. —

After a successful foray back in to the fashion market several years ago, with what was called Farah Vintage but is now simply Farah once again, Farah is firmly back on the map. Meanwhile, the Farah Classic offer has continued to appeal to more mature customers throughout the UK. But both of those offers left a rather large void in the middle, something the new Farah Jeans line, which initially launched for s/s 17, seems well geared up to fill. “We launched Farah Jeans at the last Moda show for s/s 17 and we’ll be there again this month,” says Farah brand director, Mark McCann. “We feel it’s the most relevant show for this offer and we had a really good response to it last season. For a/w 17 we are looking to expand significantly.” McCann says Farah Jeans sets out to appeal to the middle tier market, a broader business, to replace the commercial platform that Farah once occupied. “There’s still a lot of those jeanery type businesses in the UK, it’s still significant. So we’re pitching at that broader spectrum, not the contemporary independent market.” Accounts that are already on board for s/s 17 include Anthony Ryans, Scanlan’s, Townrow, Creasey’s, Winch & Blatch, Bradbeers, Squires, Louis Menswear and Eon. According to McCann, Farah Jeans is not strictly a denim brand; it’s more of a lifestyle brand with products you wear with jeans. There is denim in it, of course, with two solid fits – a

straight leg and a slim tapered – but certainly no skinny fits as are found in Farah’s younger, more contemporary collection. The aim is to appeal to that demographic of guys in their 30s up to their 50s, who probably remember Farah from having worn the iconic hopsack trousers back in the day. They still want to look stylish, but don’t necessarily follow trends. “They want to buy in to brands, but don’t want to pay through the nose,” offers McCann. They want to look good, but not make too much of a statement, and they are interested in something with a story to tell – particularly from their formative years.” It’s a full collection, with an expansion of five pocket styles taking in different fabrics such as cotton and cotton canvas, cords and chinos. Outside of the legs offer, there’s jersey across tees, polos and sweatshirts, woven shirts, knitwear and outerwear. Farah Jeans sits at a price point slightly below the existing Farah menswear offer, but slightly above the Farah Classic line. Jersey wholesales between £10-£25, shirting is £14-£20, bottoms are £18-£22, knitwear £20-£28 and outerwear £18-£40. But why is the time right for another alternative collection from the same brand? “We feel like we’ve got a secure position with Farah menswear,” explains McCann. “And we’re not particularly looking to expand upon that as we’re just looking to develop within the existing customer base we’ve got. We don’t want to

swamp the market with it. We’re adding newness to that area in the UK market by adding new categories such as accessories and tailoring.” He specifies that there are a lot of people out there who are looking for Farah, but the existing Farah menswear offer isn’t quite right for them, nor is the Farah Classic offer. “We’re just looking to fill that void.” Established in Texas in 1920, Farah once had a big affiliation with denim and workwear, as well as with chinos and supplying the US military in the 1940s and 50s. The a/w 17 collection takes inspiration from the legendary mountaineer Sir Chris Bonnington. It’s aim is not so much to create a hiker’s wardrobe, but to bring form and function together to create crafted practical garments. Outerwear takes natural direction from clothing worn on expeditions. Heavily quilted parkas and gilets feature, as does a fleece-lined jacket as a transitional outerwear piece which is lightweight, breathable and quick drying. For the more sartorial, there’s a quilted pea coat and a cotton Harrington. Denim is core to the collection, and there’s also a large sweatshirt and shirting offer. “There’s nothing confusing, it’s just a well edited selection of contemporary menswear classics, beautifully executed with a truly British handwriting,” sums up McCann. Well, it may just be that Farah Jeans will win back a large army of old fans who can’t, or won’t, squeeze in to skinny jeans, and aren’t quite ready for trousers with elasticated waists just yet.


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MISSION BERLIN In search of something new to highlight, Tom Bottomley set off to Berlin to cover the Seek and Premium shows and came across some standout kit amongst the mighty mix. —

GREENWICH SPORTSWEAR COMPANY

MANIFATTURA CECCARELLI

CROOTS ENGLAND

Making super fine sweatshirts out of Toronto, Greenwich Sportswear Company has had an established factory for 30 years, producing quality reverse weave products on old machinery for the likes of Todd Snyder, Champion (Japan only), Reigning Champ, J Crew, Club Monaco and also Harrods’ own label. “Our whole thing was to refurbish vintage machines,” says president Osama Farmuz. “We are the only ones in North America who do reverse weave products. The factory is a best kept secret.” Although the main appeal is the authenticity, feel and look of the sweats, there are also some more fashion-led pieces, such as a quilted sweat bomber jacket and quilted sweats. The brand’s tagline is ‘History Inspired Sportswear Goods,’ and you have to say they’ve got it spot-on, utilising some archive Champion pieces to aid design. The two-tone Japanese weave sweats are produced on a loop wheel machine, as used in the 1950s, leading to that heavy slub melange look. The joggers are also more than decent. —

Founded in 1998 by Giuliano Ceccarelli, Seattle snc specialises in the production of traditional outdoor jackets, shirts, knitwear and trousers. The manufacturers have a reputation for quality and craft which has led them to produce Filson’s ‘Black’ label for over 10 years (under license from Filson in Seattle) and also make the outdoor jackets for Pendleton. Manifattura Ceccarelli is the company’s own in-house line. Inspired by outdoor pursuits, hunting and workwear jackets, they only use the finest materials from around the world, such as waxed cotton from England, and cotton and Melton and Virgin wool fabrics from the US and Japan, with everything made at the headquarters in Forli, Italy. The attention to detail is second to none, and some of the pieces, especially the fisherman goosedown parkas, are definitely Premiership material. Over all, there’s a kind of vintage Filson feel to the collection, but with added design details which give it an edge. There’s moleskin shirts, waistcoats and trousers, cord jackets with tweed trims, and some very desirable bags. —

A family business from North Yorkshire, Croots England sat perfectly amongst other artisan brands at Seek. Director Alistair Croot says: “The first products were actually made by my wife’s family in 1978, though we created the Croots brand in 2010. Before that we were manufacturers supplying shops for private label. We realised that a premium made in England product was becoming increasingly desirable, so we wanted a brand to match. Our history comes from the country sports market, a bit like Chapman and Brady bags.” The line at the show, however, is Croots’ new, contemporary ‘City’ collection, using quality British bridle leathers, Riri zips and signature red trims and linings. There’s laptop bags, duffle holdalls, leather backpacks, carry-on leather flight bags, leather jean belts and wallets. Canvas and waxed cottons from Halley Stevensons in Scotland are also used for bags. All made in-house by craftsmen in Yorkshire, the canvas leather trimmed laptop bags wholesale at £150, and the leather holdalls at £170, so it’s topend – but it looks it. —


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LYPH

AFIELD

WOODS

Standing for ‘Live Young Play Hard’ (and pronounced as ‘life’) this new label started out in 2014. “We’re a new avant garde UK clothing brand,” says co-founder and creative director Frederick Edmondson. The idea of the product is unique and progressive. “We always keep a very classic base layer to each silhouette. We try to use classic fabrics, such as Oxfords, poplins and twills, which we then team with performance fabrics from Japan. Each season we work with interchangeable different pockets, which button on with BB military press studs, and can change a look and introduce seasonal trends such as Breton stripes.” There’s shirts, jackets, T-shirts and bottoms, and a great interpretation of a vintage Swedish military track top in royal blue with the pocket detail added to the back of the garment, wholesaling at £45. Another key piece is the technical single-breasted mac in a waterproof performance fabric, wholesaling at £120. This edition of Seek was LYPH’s first ever trade show, but Jacket Required beckons for the summer show. —

This is actually a rebranding of the Tuktuk brand. It still has brothers Chris and Mark Scholes behind it, and Brand Progression is still heading up UK sales. Chris Scholes says: “I think Tuktuk had kind of run its course and the name was maybe holding us back a bit. We were on a trade mission in Tokyo and the feedback was that the name didn’t sound very British. We weren’t that keen on the name anyway.” Afield’s first collection is for this spring/summer, but the a/w 17 collection at Seek really catches the eye. Shirting is still a key focus (all still produced in Sri Lanka), but there seems to be more of a full collection now, with some casual tailoring and decent outerwear and knitwear pieces. It’s also competitively priced so should have quite a wide appeal. “For winter we’ve really used some interesting fabrics for the shirts,” says Scholes. “There’s some heavy flannels, micro cord and woven patterns that go a bit off the beaten track.” —

Woods is the original Canadian outerwear brand: since 1885 no less, when it first produced apparel, tents and canvas bags. This is a relaunch, under the stewardship of one-time Canada Goose driving force, Robin Yates, who also owns the Nobis brand. The collection presents knockout outerwear that draws from a rich archive, and is more competitively priced than you might think. Yates says: “Woods used to make for the military during the WWI and WWII, and it made for the original Canadian Arctic Expedition of 1913. It also was a long time manufacturer for the likes of LL Bean. The history book is amazing.” For this collection, they have embraced specifically some products from the archives and how they evolved, featuring the original Woods tree triangle branding on the jacket sleeve. It made the original down Canadian Arctic Parka, and there’s a new version in this fine a/w 17 collection. Colour is also key, with red, orange, green all bringing life to well executed outerwear. The canvas bags are also very much noteworthy. —


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JACKET REQUIRED Buzzing with the coming together of old industry faces, and plenty of fresh folks in town too, Jacket Required once again wore the mantle of the UK’s finest contemporary menswear show. Tom Bottomley walked the halls to get the news and views from some of the new and returning brands. —

SEAN GORMLEY, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, WRANGLER What are you doing regarding the brand’s 70th anniversary this year? It’s an important year for us as a brand. We’re rejuvenating some of the fun and fashion the brand had in the 1970s, when Wrangler was the biggest brand in the world in terms of jeans sales. The important pillar of the new collection is a collaboration with Peter Max, an artist famous for psychedelic art from the 1960s and 70s. He created designs for The Beatles and posters for Woodstock. Wrangler did a collaboration with him in 1970 and 1971, and it was massive – we sold three million pairs of jeans in one year. What does it consist of? There’s a lot of colour blocking, such as tri-colour cord western-style shirts and jackets for a/w 17, and a mixing of denim colours on jeans. The jeans are made beautifully with selvedge denim from Cone Mills, so this a premium line with jeans set to start at £160 retail. The ‘Retro Slim Fit’ is like an early Wrangler cowboy jean but slimmed down a bit on the legs for a modern look. We want to bring the brand back to a younger consumer. What about the more commercial mainline? The focus is on more contemporary fits. There’s a slim straight leg, a slim tapered and even a looser fit. We’ve raided the archives for inspiration. A key product is our Stone Dyed jeans, originally introduced in around 1978. There’s also an early 1980s bleach wash, which we call our Wild Wash, featuring on a jacket and a jean. —

COLIN CLARKE, SALES MANAGER, GOOD COMPANY, PRESENTING HERSCHEL SUPPLY CO. What are the key pieces in the new apparel line? We only have a small selection here, but it’s very outerwear focused. There’s the Voyage style, which is a packable coach jacket in a nylon ripstop, and a zip-up anorak that’s quite a tailored shape. There’s also an overhead hooded jacket with a front pouch pocket. Another area is called Forecast, and that consists of a rubber treated membrane, all heat-sealed and fully waterproof. There’s a hooded camo coach style jacket within that, and a longer parka style. We’ve already got 22 accounts on board with the apparel in the UK for a/w 17. What’s new with the bags? We’ve got what we call the Surplus collection in an air force nylon military green, which is a satin nylon like what you get on an MA-1 jacket. The bags are camo lined, and there’s a shoulder bag, holdall and rucksack. They will retail for £90£100. Selfridges and some good independents have picked up on it. Another strong addition to the offer is our Offset line in canvas, with striped ribbon detail and leather trims. What brand news is there? I think we’ve had the best autumn/winter season ever. We came back after Christmas to a pile of re-orders on key stock items – backpacks, wallets and beanies. As we’re growing in to different product areas, we’re finding the market seems very receptive. The apparel range will grow significantly going forward. We’re also potentially looking at retail options in London, but that’s in co-ordination with the brand owners in Canada. —

ADAM LEEBETTER, SALES DIRECTOR, HENRI LLOYD What is the new ‘Consort Project’ all about? It’s been generated via our Italian licensee, which we took on just over a year ago. We’ve gone back to the brand’s roots. The Consort jacket was the very first created by Henri Lloyd in Manchester in 1963. The Italian paninari, or scooter boys, adopted it as their jacket of choice back in 1979. We’ve remade the jacket in a different fabrication, a softer Oxford with Manchester cord trims. It comes in multiple colours. There’s also an updated version with a pack-away hood. Does this collection sit separately from the main line? Yes, it’s totally separate. There’s 21 individually designed jackets just on the Consort Project. Four different Italian designers, and a UK designer, all outerwear specialists, have been working with us to create this collection. Five of the jackets are limited edition, individually signed by the designers. We’re only selecting premium accounts to sell these jackets to. Why did you decide to bring this line to Jacket Required following its launch at Pitti? Jacket Required gives us an opportunity to showcase what we are doing as a brand. This is our top end. There is obviously a much wider collection that can be bought in our London and Manchester showrooms, but this is an opportunity to see what the best part of our business is. We’ve had a few good retailers wanting to do exclusivity on certain jackets. We’ll also be looking to back this up with a marketing campaign later in the year to launch these jackets. Social media will play a big part. —


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GARY BROWN, ACCOUNT MANAGER, CLARKS ORIGINALS

FODAY DUMBUYA, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, LABRUM

Have you been as busy at the show as you always seem to be? Yes, we’ve had an amazing time with a lot of interest in the brand. We’re starting to elevate the brand and we’ve just changed the branding. We’ve gone in to a new category with the launch of a boot and shoe that were actually originally designed in 1954, but didn’t make it to market. We’re very excited about it, and the reaction has been great. They are made in England and Goodyear welted with a Scotch grain leather upper. It takes us in to a different category. The boots will retail at £350, the shoes at £300 for the shoe. There’s also a Goodyear welted version of the Desert boot.

Is your label new? This is our third season, and distribution is being handled by Egomark. They spotted me at London Fashion Week. I was showing in the Designer Showroom in January. They liked what I’m doing and the aesthetic of the clothes. It’s the first label I’ve had of my own. I used to work for Nike as the bespoke designer for Nike Lab for the higher end clients who would spend £750 on a pair of shoes.

What are the key areas performing well with independents at the moment? The key area for us has been the Weaver boot, which is essentially a Wallabee turned inside out so you get the stitching detail going around the toe. It has absolutely smashed it this season. We’re bringing back the Weaver for a/w17, and we’ve got high hopes for that. We’re also introducing some great new colours. The Desert Trek boot is another key growth area. How does the Trigenic Flex line fit in? It’s where old meets new. It still has the moccasin construction, in fact it’s very Weaver inspired, but the decoupled Vibram sole unit gives a different sportier look, and ultimate comfort. It bridges the gap between casual and sports. We’re not trying to get in to that real sneakers market, it’s more about playing to our strengths in the casual market and widening the brand’s appeal. —

Was it your ambition to do clothing? Yes, that’s always been my ambition. I studied design at Nottingham Trent University, and then I came to London and did a year’s pattern and sewing course and menswear design at the London College of Fashion. This collection is called ‘Pilgrim’ and is all about my journey and experiences. I was born in Sierra Leone, moved to Cyprus and was brought up there, and then moved to London when I was 13. So it encapsulates what I’ve picked up and learnt along the way. The fabrics I use tell the story. It’s quite workwear inspired, with some stand-out shirting. How has your Jacket Required debut been? The feedback has been great. It’s already going to go in to Present, The Content Store and Number Six – three key London accounts which will act as a good springboard. Mr. Porter has also expressed an interest, but there’s not been an order yet; maybe next season. Jacket Required is a show I’ve always come to, and it’s always inspired me. It’s great to now be showing alongside such a cool selection of brands. —

DENNY CALDER, DIRECTOR AND PRODUCTION MANAGER, AERO LEATHER CLOTHING When was the last time you did a trade show? It must be about 10 years ago. We’ve been going 35 years. It’s a family business based in Scotland – on the borders. My father, Ken Calder, started it. We have stockists all over the world, but we don’t have any UK stockists at the moment, hence why we’re here. We’ve had a lot of interest from the right shops. What’s your USP? Everything is hand-crafted and individually produced by one machinist, so there’s no production lines. In recent years we’ve had a bit of a restructure, and we’re pushing new lines such as made in Northampton footwear, 1930s-inspired spear-point collar flannel shirts, trousers, knitwear, tartan scarves and sunglasses. There’s also probably about 40 styles of jackets now, and we’ve introduced some new softer leathers. All the clothing is made in Scotland, apart from the Harris tweed trousers which are made in Yorkshire. New at the show is our Sub Mariner roll-neck jumper, inspired by what the navy wore during WWII. What is Aero Leathers best known for? Our military-inspired leathers. We try to keep them as close to the originals as possible. There’s a N422A US Navy jacket, Type A-2 from WWII and Type A-1 which was its predecessor from the 1930s. We’ve also got an American sheepskin flying jacket, Type D-1, which is what the mechanics would have worn, and a Type B-6 shearling model worn by pilots. Then we’ve got a whole line of ‘civilian’ leather jackets, which are our own styles inspired by classic 1930s, 40s and 50s jackets. The whole company ethos is that 1959 is the cut-off date in terms of styles, materials used and construction techniques. —


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NORTHERN REVIVAL A northern seaside town may not be the first place you associate with cutting edge fashion – but that’s exactly what the owners of The Priory, Vince Clarke and Leo Jarvis, want you to think. Rebecca Jackson finds out more about the menswear store that’s changing the retail face of Bridlington. —


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Coming from a fashion background, Vince Clarke worked in sales at VF Corporation before setting up menswear destination store, The Priory. With an aim to create something different and an existing knowledge of the industry, Clarke decided on a northern setting for the store. After narrowing the selection down to a few options, the east Yorkshire seaside town of Bridlington was the winning location. “Bridlington is 80 per cent cheaper than Beverley and York, which were the other options, and I thought there would be more opportunities as there weren’t any good indies locally. I thought it would help me have a more rounded view of the whole industry,” explains Clarke. Clarke brought Leo Jarvis on board shortly after. After finishing university, Leo says the move was an easy decision, especially when, he admits, World of Warcraft was taking up most of his time. Jarvis brought a new direction to the store, steering it away from its gothic and religious connotations and identifying it more with the idea of a rehab clinic. The store uses the image of a pill as a logo on its website and social media channels. “The religious image just didn’t sit right within our industry and the direction the store was going. I decided to move the focus around a rehab clinic. This reflected the idea of an obsession with footwear and clothing. The fun we could have with it long term was a much more interesting option for us,” says Jarvis. Opening the store on a shoestring budget in March 2012, Bridlington’s cheaper location was integral to the store’s initial success. However, the area wasn’t exactly known for its thriving selection of independent businesses. With that in mind, the pair also had a strong focus on e-commerce, with their plan B being the goal of having a fully functioning transactional site within the first 12 months. Despite the success of the bricks and mortar space, e-commerce is a big sales avenue for the store. With a growing online presence, The Priory sees roughly 70 per cent of its takings coming from online. This is expected to grow to 80 per cent this year. Online sales may be integral to the store’s operation, but this does not extend to third party online sales. “Solid reporting has shown us that third party platforms don’t work for a few reasons: they’re not credible and there aren’t enough good margin sales to cover the fees. And just to make it even harder, it muddles all the data. I am pleased to say now we ship in 800 units most weeks, with 95 per cent of that being on our own e-commerce platform,” says Clarke. Though it typically creates less revenue, the bricks and mortar store has had an effect on Bridlington’s retail landscape. After the store opened its doors, more independent businesses have opened around it. Now with an art gallery workshop, a coffee shop and a jewellers nearby, the area is on the turn and becoming a pocket of creativity. “I suppose it’s fair to say we have given the local community a little bit of an insight into how something a bit different from the norm can work in the town,” says Clarke. “Now we’re seeing nicer shops and the overall shopping experience has improved within certain hot spots.” It quickly became apparent that more space was required to fulfil the needs of the store. Taking on a storage unit just behind the shop to help with stock and goods out seemed like a good idea, though it took only six months to fill. The problem was promptly solved when the pair bought the building next door, which had recently come up for sale. Originally titled Tony’s Textiles, it was a larger space which had demanded a rent to match. The decision was a financial risk, but it paid off. The extra space allowed more room for expansion and further growth. While to others it may seem like the decision was the result of good business sense and the ability to take a well-evaluated risk, Clarke and Jarvis modestly put it down to convenience. “Everything has happened quite organically due to growth and also buildings coming up at the right time. It’s like our entire setup was meant to happen,” says Jarvis. Now with too much space for just the retail side of things, the pair decided to diversify the space. Incorporating both a bar and a barbershop, and with the addition of homeware, the larger store operates as a destination store and is filled with different elements under one roof. The brand mix was reorganised, with streetwear separated into the original premises, the smaller space of the two. Both stores attract a broad range of customers. However, the Victoria Mill store is known as the ‘grown-up’ one of the two, typically offering the likes of Norse Projects, Folk and Oliver Spencer. Meanwhile, brands seen at the Manor Street store include Stussy, Carhartt and The North Face. “We try not to pigeonhole either store, and we feel this works well,” says Clarke. “We buy brands with solid history, which is a fundamentally good product with fair pricing that hopefully isn’t too ‘hype’. We don’t get involved in fast fashion fads that grow stale quite quickly.” This year, the store will continue forward with its growth and development. Outerwear is a strong category this a/w 17, and the store is on the lookout for more brands this buying season. Whatever the future holds for the store, it’s certainly bound to not be stale. As Jarvis asserts, he gets bored easily, craving change and always looking for that ‘something else’. “It has its benefits and its downsides,” he says. In this case, it’s almost certainly a benefit.


Blues from navy to sky continue to dominate mainstream menswear this a/w 17, with texture updating this trend for the new season including flannel suiting, wool mixes and neoprene. — Photographer: Richard Boyle Stylist: Victoria Jackson Make-up artist: Lauren Rippin www.laurensally.co.uk Model: George Ward www.bossmodelmanagement.co.uk

Blazer – SIMON CARTER £125 020 7723 3211 Zip-up cardigan (just seen) – REMUS UOMO £39.95 028 9332 7828 Bag – Stylist’s own


Coat – CG CLUB OF GENTS price on request 020 3432 6387 Jeans – CASUAL FRIDAY £21.80 020 3432 6387 Shirt – R.M. WILLIAMS £44 01767 600870 Hooded top – ELVINE €95 020 7723 3211 Shoes – SEBAGO £50 07711 108304


Coat – FRENN £149 0035 850 3412 887 Roll-neck jumper – JOHN SMEDLEY price on request 01629 534471


Blazer – GIBSON LONDON price on request 01405 782830 Trousers – CASUAL FRIDAY £25.40 020 3432 6387 T-shirt – FRENN £18.50 0035 850 3412 887 Pumps – Stylist’s own


Jacket – SKOPES £54 0113 240 2211 Top – MERC £20 020 8838 2444 Trousers – SKOPES £22 0113 240 2211


Suit – EDEN PARK Blazer £55 Trousers £70 020 3432 6387 Shirt – JOULES £20.85 01858 435 255


Suit – REMUS UOMO Jacket £79.50 Trousers £37.50 028 9332 7828 Jumper – SLAITH £54.50 01484 848434


Jacket – EDEN PARK £95 020 3432 6387 Shirt – ETON SHIRTS price on request 07736 110801 Jeans – CASUAL FRIDAY price on request 020 3432 6387


Shirt – SEIDENSTICKER £18.95 01572 723 931 Zip-up jacket – ELVINE €85 020 7723 3211


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30 YEARS OF INNOVATION Napapijri, the Italian brand with the Norwegian flag logo, is 30 years old this year. To celebrate this milestone, the brand is looking back at its past winning products to create modern interpretations in what it is calling ‘Heritage Forward’, as Tom Bottomley discovers from the label’s vice president, Kathy Hines. —

Founded in Italy in 1987, Napapijri has grown to a substantial business, especially since it was acquired by United States-based clothing manufacturer VF Corporation in 2004. It has four marketing deals with the UK wholesale side, with current accounts including Flannels, Scotts and Asos. To highlight the brand’s 30th anniversary and raise awareness of its key strengths, a/w 17 sees Napapijri introduce a concept titled ‘Heritage Forward’, featuring new products and reinterpretations of old favourites. “We returned to our Italian origins with a series of events at Pitti in Florence,” says Napapijri vice president, Kathy Hines. “The centre of attention, with various new interpretations, is the brand’s iconic Rainforest jacket.” The ‘Heritage’ in ‘Heritage Forward’ draws inspiration from the brand’s history with a particular focus on the Rainforest jacket. The Rainforest is re-interpreted all season long and includes the Rainforest Original, the Ski Rainforest, inspired by Napapijri’s first home, and the Rainforest 30th Anniversary, which is a limited edition reversible jacket. Meanwhile, the ‘Forward’ part represents Napapijri’s design ethos to ‘make it better’, seeking innovation beyond aesthetics and functionality. Says Hines: “It’s an initiative which Napapijri has always held close to its core over the past 30 years. The brand has worked to continually develop the design of their products, the fabrications they use and the effect this has on the environment.” Hence the ‘Make it Better’ tagline. The Napapijri brand was established in Aosta, Italy in 1987 when a manufacturer of travel bags created the Bering Bag, a waxed canvas duffle bag marketed to travellers and the first product to carry the Napapijri name. In 1990, the company began designing and producing clothing and accessories, and introduced its signature Skidoo jacket, a lightweight, rainproof anorak designed for extreme temperatures. The company continued to add to its product range in the 2000s. In 2002, the Napapijri childrenswear clothing line was introduced, followed by Napapijri footwear in 2007. The first Napapijri store opened in Chamonix, France in 1997. Since then, the company has consistently added stores and in 2010, Napapijri launched its

e-commerce website. Aside from the new interpretations of the brand’s most famous piece of outerwear that is the Rainforest, a/w 17 also sees the introduction of the Superlight Parka. “Napapijri has taken innovation and sustainable design to the next level for a/w 17 with its new 100 percent down and fur-free Superlight Parka,” offers Hines. “Each and every element of the Superlight Parka has been studied to create a jacket that responds to everyday needs of the urban consumer, while maintaining the classic look and performance of a traditional parka. Since being founded in 1987, Napapijri has embraced solutions that have a positive impact on the world. The Superlight Parka is another example of this.” The parka, which is one kilogram lighter than the brand’s average winter parka, is designed with the urban consumer in mind and features Napapijri’s eco-friendly Thermo-Fibre technology, which apparently performs better than down. “It can be worn in a variety of environments and temperatures from wind-chilled city streets to crowded trains and sweltering department stores,” explains Hines. Napapijri has also banned the use of fur in its collections and now use a specially developed Eco-Fur which is a faux-fur

with a very low impact on the environment. “The ‘Heritage Forward’ design approach transcends the whole collection and enables the brand’s tribe of consumers to bridge city and nature,” says Hines. The Superlight Parka will retail for £615, raising the bar somewhat in terms of what price points UK retailers and consumers expect from the brand, so it will be interesting to see how that is received. The Napapijri brand is currently distributed in over 40 countries through a network of 180 mono-brand stores wand over 2,200 multi-brand retailers. Regarding the UK market, Hines says: “We see growth opportunities in the UK as the consumer has definitely embraced Napapijri again and, with consumer demand, comes growth. Napapijri has strength globally, but in particular in key European markets. Future growth of distribution is planned.” And, of course, it has the might of VF Corporation behind it, a world leader in the lifestyle clothing and footwear sector with a portfolio of more than 30 brands, including Wrangler, The North Face, Lee, Vans, Nautica, Eastpak, JanSport, Majestic and Timberland. There’s no real lightweights there, which bodes well for the Napapijri brand’s future.


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COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK THE LAUNDROMAT CAFÉ AUSTURSTRÆTI 9, REYKJAVIK, ICELAND

SIMON SAYS I write this with a mild case of jetlag and a serious case of my esteemed editor breathing down my neck to meet her deadline. I’m back from a trip to US and Canada. I was in New York for the Market menswear show. This has combined with its slightly younger demographic, Project, so it’s all under one roof at the Javits Centre. My goodness, Americans know how to make the show easy. Need some more lights on that stand Sir? No problem, let me run those up for you. Unlike showing at some UK exhibitions, where, once you’ve spent an hour finding an electrician, then endured the obligatory, “Nah, that’s a specialist light bulb that is, Mate,” and then ended up bribing them in ready money simply to not destroy your stand, you then realise they’ve left your job unfinished as it’s past three o’clock and that’s overtime. Mate. So, what of the show? Well, there seemed a determination not to discuss Trump, though his presence was hard to ignore in the city, as there were large and voluble demonstrations. Apart from that, the mood among the US exhibitors and buyers was very similar to ours. Growth of on line; disappearance of the middle market; rise of discounters; threat to multi-brand stores from the very brands they’ve built up. We did ok; but not much more than ok. In some ways I wish the show had clearly been a disaster and then I could have said, “That’s it, we’re not coming back”. I had serious regular customers who spent time on the stand and worked thoroughly through the collections. One or two potentially very good follow-ups. But not enough to call it a resounding success. What is apparent is how reluctant US buyers are to try anything new. The one consistent comment I heard from fellow exhibitors is how puzzled they are by the lack of time buyers allow for trying to find new products and suppliers. They simply treat the show as a series of prearranged appointments. They play it so safe, and wonder why the consumer is bored. I also absorbed this walking the streets of New York with my other business hat on; the cake and coffee shop. It’s strangely hard to get a good, “boutique” coffee. Starbucks utterly dominate the streetscape on a scale hard to comprehend. And they’re all busy. The American consumer is conservative, brand loving and plainly unadventurous. This is a challenge for brands such as mine, where design and colour feature so strongly. Not sure how I persuade them to be bolder. Maybe President Trump could issue an Executive Order to wear more colour... — Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

The Laundromat Café was established in Copenhagen in 2006, with a mission to provide its customers with an informal space to socialise and eat while doing their laundry. The Reykjavik branch opened in 2011, serving brunch and breakfast as well as sandwiches and burgers. A host of drinks from beer to coffee are on offer, while options such as pancakes and cake cater to the sweet tooth. Serving as the official caterer of the 2013 Iceland Airwaves music festival, the cafe has gained popularity due to a winning combination of fair prices and relaxed atmosphere. Featuring an extensive library of approximately 6,000 books, customers are encouraged to relax, play games and, of course, read. Street art displays are often on show just outside the store, and live bands regularly perform on evenings – adding to the overall creative atmosphere of this multi-tasking laundromat. And there’s always the option of doing laundry. —

PLAN B

GARY BOTHOMLEY Director, Jekyll and Hide

Having been bought up in South Africa, I spent a lot of time outside, and most of this time was taken up by my absolute passion – motorbikes. — My honest plan B would have been anything to do with motorcycle customisation, or engine development. I recall as a youngster taking apart anything that had a motor in it, and which I thought I could make better. Some I did, and some, including my father’s car, I certainly did not. Today we’ve actually incorporated subtle aspects of this passion into my other passion, Jekyll and Hide. We have weatherproof leathers and backpacks that can cross from business to motorcycle use in an instant, biker inspired leather jackets and a project we want to undertake involving some bespoke one-off handmade Jekyll and Hide motorcycle luggage, two Royal Enfield motorcycles, and a trip around India. —


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CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL SEAMUS MONAGHAN STREETWEAR GRAPHIC DESIGNER, CHUNK CLOTHING At the minute, my all-time favourite garment would be my PLBY x CNK sweatshirt. The reason this is my favourite is because I believe in the power of brands mixed with strong, punch you in the gut graphics. I’m drawn to the late 1960s military vintage feel, plus the message ‘Make Love Not War’ is pretty damn cool. It’s comfortable, a good fit, high quality and fits my streetwear vibe. Before I got my hands on this sweatshirt, my favourite piece in my wardrobe was my Bike Polo polo shirt. It’s versatile in my day to day routine; cycle, work, pub. I can wear it cycling to the pub and not have to change it when I get a round in. It also looks pretty anarchic, middle finger up to the corporate establishment and all that. To complete an outfit with my sweat I would wear a white TSPTR T-shirt (not only do I design graphics for T-shirts, but I am a big T-shirt fan myself – especially if it has an in your face graphic), with my signature 510 Levi’s black jeans, and a pair of black or white Reeboks. I also wear a Been Trill beanie (especially on messy hair days), and glasses from Moscot, which now has a cool shop on Beak Street in London. In terms of underwear, I tend to go for Calvin Klein boxers and I usually pick my socks up at Topman. Choosing my favourite brand to follow is quite a broad statement, as in where do you start, social media, retail space or e-commerce? If I were to recommend a brand to follow on social media platforms it would be P&Co. To recommend a brand from a retail space it would be Goodhood and if I were to go by a brand’s website it would be Crooks & Castles. —

TOP TWEETS Hillary Clinton @HillaryClinton Scrolling through images of the #womensmarch is awe-inspiring. Hope it brought joy to others as it did to me. ShortList Magazine @ShortList Rod Stewart pissed on live television is exactly what you need on this bleak Monday. VeryBritishProblems @SoVeryBritish “Ooh are you going to the kitchen?” – Translation: Can you fetch my phone, do the dishes, hang up the washing and make me a tea, please? Kevin Williamson @williamsonkev Robert Burns championed equality, social justice & an independent Scottish republic. His ideas still relevant today. Happy #BurnsNight2017 The Chic Geek @TheChicGeekcouk All change at Conde Nast. Channel 4 @Channel4 Hope you’re enjoying the film. We should point out that heroin isn’t good for you. #Trainspotting Half An Onion @HalfOnionInABag What if this account that is simply half an onion in a Ziploc bag ended up with more followers than @realDonaldTrump? stephen jack @imstephenjack “You can meet somebody tomorrow who has better intentions for you than someone you’ve known forever. Time means nothing, character does.”

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF KENT & CURWEN, DANIEL KEARNS, AND BUSINESS PARTNER DAVID BECKHAM AT THE A/W 17 PRESENTATION OF THE BRAND AT LAST MONTH’S LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S.

p HACIENDA DJ GRAEME PARK (PICTURED) JOINED THE LIKES OF NEW ORDER LEGEND PETER HOOK AND HAPPY MONDAYS DANCER BEZ AT A RECENT PRETTY GREEN EVENT TO CELEBRATE THE MANCHESTER MUSIC SCENE.

p DYLAN JONES OBE, LONDON MAYOR SADIQ KHAN, CAROLINE RUSH CBE AND JUSTINE SIMONS OBE ATTEND THE OFFICIAL OPENING OF LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S AT THE STORE STUDIOS, 180 STRAND, LONDON.


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Fashion

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THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BUZZ BACK AT JACKET REQUIRED There definitely seemed to be energy back at Jacket Required as the menswear industry once again congregated at The Old Truman Brewery last month. Admittedly the trading word coming back from a handful of independents I spoke to at the show was that it’s tough out there, with many citing the growing scourge of pre-Christmas discounting and customers leaving it even later to spend, increasingly hopeful of getting what they want a bit cheaper. However, it’s always good to see people get out there and chat, swap stories and talk about new product, and Jacket Required really is great for that. The exhibitors are, of course, great indicators of how the market is, and most I spoke to seem happy with how things were going – and how much interest there had been from buyers this time around. I even saw a couple of orders being placed, and that’s not something you often see at most of the shows these days.

REYNOLDS BIKES LAUNCHES CASUALWEAR IN COLLABORATION WITH OI POLLOI CO-OWNER A tasty new line of casualwear given the design treatment by Oi Polloi co-owner Nigel Lawson looks set to raise the bar for cycling gear for a/w 17. Actually it’s more essential kit you’d wear down the pub than on your bike, but it looks a hell of a lot better than a lot of the monstrosities being sported by so-called Weekend Warriors. This is sharp, and given Lawson’s attention to detail you wouldn’t expect any less. Mike Smith, owner and director of Foundry Brands, explains how this collection materialised: “I have been working with Reynolds, introducing them to prospective partners away from their core business in the cycling world. I introduced them to Heritage Apparel, who we then signed up as a licensee. “Oi Polloi came about as I got talking to Nigel in the store, who turns out is really into vintage British bikes and the Reynolds brand. I introduced Nigel to Heritage and they decided to work together on this collection. I’m going to be selling the Reynolds collection in the south on Heritage’s behalf.” Reynolds is legendary in the cycling world

p JACKET REQUIRED u REYNOLDS

for winning more Tour de France races than any other brand and this collection features famous 531 and 753 Reynolds decal branding. Established in Birmingham in 1897, the company revolutionised cycle manufacturing with the development of butted steel tubes, and in 1935 launched the much-revered Reynolds 531. Inspired by Reynolds’ rich British cycling heritage and its extensive archive, this casualwear collection references classic cycling pieces for detailing and styling and comprises T-shirts, polos, track tops and outerwear. For the launch of the collection, Oi Polloi’s Nigel Lawson says: “It’s been great working with the team at Heritage, re-energising one of British cycling’s most famous brands with this new line. When we started to look at designing the collection, it was amazing to see the wealth of Reynolds historical memorabilia available to us and the depth of the history of the Reynolds brand. We’ve respected the brand’s history while giving things a modern twist.” It definitely works.

KODAK BRINGS BACK PROPER FILM Without doubt it’s a modern-day contradiction that more photographs than ever are taken on smartphones and digital cameras, but hardly anyone bothers to print them out. I’ve got

memory sticks with pictures going back years that I’ve never got round to editing and printing out. And I’ve put them in such a safe place I now can’t even find them. So a recent story I spotted in the papers immediately got my attention; Kodak is bringing back traditional 35mm film, apparently thanks to massive consumer demand. It will restart selling its Ektachrome brand this year, with others to follow. Ektachrome was phased out in 2013 but, according to Kodak, there has been a resurgence in interest among professionals. The turnaround is another instance of old technology coming back in to fashion. Sales of vinyl records were in the region of three million last year, the highest number for 25 years, as more customers shun digital formats. While an element of nostalgia is no doubt playing a part behind the revival of camera film, photographers also find that traditional film can do things digital machines cannot. That’s certainly something an old fashion photographer mate of mine used to say all the time. Ektachrome film is well known for a particular look with very fine grain, strong contrasts and clean and vivid colours, so we will be able to see the world in full colour glory once more. Who knows, with all these revivals going on, we may one day see the return of Grace Brothers-style retailing.


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LAST ORDERS WITH... THUY NGUYEN Capturing menswear trends on the streets of Amsterdam as a hobby propelled street style photographer Thuy Nguyen into a full-time career behind her camera. Victoria Jackson caught up with Nguyen to discover more about her signature style, the highlight of her career so far and her favourite city to shoot in. — When did you launch your photography career? In 2011 I started pursuing photography after I received positive responses on my Amsterdam Street Style series of men I shot for the daily newspaper Metro Amsterdam. Was photography something you had wanted to get into from a young age? No, I actually got into photography by chance. For years I always thought I would become a fashion designer. But after I graduated from fashion school in Zutphen in 2007, I felt a bit lost, because I wanted to do something completely different. After a few failed studies, which included Applied Psychology, I chose Media, Information and Communication at the Hogeschool van Amsterdam (HvA), where I graduated from in 2015. It was during this study that I found out that I have an eye for photography. One assignment included starting your own blog. At the time, street style blogs like The Sartorialist were getting hugely popular and, influenced by this trend, I tried to shoot some street style pictures of men too. Near the end of 2010 I showed my blog to a friend of a friend, who worked at Metro Amsterdam. He told me that the editor-in-chief was looking for a men’s street style photographer and that he wanted to show him my blog, which at the time only contained a few pictures. At first I was hesitant and initially said no to his offer, because I didn’t see myself as a photographer. I gave it a shot anyway. My street style series of men and articles, which I shot and wrote for my own column ‘Amsterdam Street Style’, were published in the newspaper in 2011. How would you describe your signature style? I would describe my work as stylish and elegant. In both my street style and portrait work I like high contrasts and a strong look or pose. My favourite light is one light source, natural or artificial, to light my subject with. I love dark shadows to create a bit of drama and mystique. Who is your inspiration in terms of photography? Peter Lindbergh. I love the way he sees and captures women. He makes them look so graceful and natural. His photos could easily be film stills. I’m naturally drawn to interesting faces. Men and women, the night time and artificial lights all inspire me.

What has been the highlight of your career so far? Anyone you’ve photographed in particular? Last year was my best year yet and my biggest highlight was definitely shooting at New York Fashion Week Men’s and New York Fashion Week in January and February 2016 respectively. It was my first time shooting at a Fashion Week and, despite the snowy and freezing cold weather, I had such an incredible time. I met and shot so many great people and on some days it was hard for me to comprehend what I had experienced and who I had met. I had been following The Sartorialist for years and suddenly, while street style shooting, Scott Schuman aka The Sartorialist stood next to me. I talked with him for a bit and asked if I could take his picture. This moment was kind of surreal for me, so my hands were very shaky as I pressed the shutter button. The picture luckily turned out pretty decent. After this New York adventure I decided I wanted to chase more Fashion Weeks in other cities, because the rush and the chaos that I felt were so addictive, and I haven’t stopped since. Also, standing face to face with Karl Lagerfeld at the Dior Homme show last year in Paris and shooting him was pretty surreal too. In terms of designers, who are your standout ones? In terms of clothing I am inspired by menswear and I only wear men’s clothes. I love Dsquared; their menswear designs are raw and sexy. I especially like their cropped denim jeans. I can’t get enough of the rock’n’roll designs of Hedi Slimane and Kris van Assche is pretty badass too, with his punk-influenced collections for Dior

DOB: 06/11/1984 PLACE OF BIRTH: APELDOORN, THE NETHERLANDS LIVES: AMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS INSTAGRAM: INSTAGRAM.COM/THEFASHIONTOURIST WEBSITE: WWW.THEFASHIONTOURIST.COM

Homme. I have a special liking for slim and straight cut designs with a raw edge. Which is your favourite city to shoot in? Paris. Fashion Week or not; the people in the city are very sophisticated in their appearance, whether it is classy or rugged. How does it feel to get such an instant reaction to your work with your large Instagram following? I put a lot of energy and effort into taking the best pictures and it’s such a great feeling if someone appreciates what I do. I get a lot of energy from these reactions and it’s a constant reminder that I should keep on doing what I love to do most. What makes a great picture? For me it’s when a picture is attention grabbing and when it speaks to me. A great picture also truly reflects the photographer’s personality, passion and unique style. What’s next for The Fashion Tourist? I’ll be chasing more Fashion Weeks of course. I haven’t been to London Fashion Week before and I’m very curious about that, so hopefully I can put that on my agenda soon. Just keep an eye on my Instagram account to keep up with my adventures.


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