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A CURATED COLLECTION OF JEWELRY, WATCHES AND GEMSTONES AND THE STORIES BEHIND THEM

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CEO Michael Pollak PRESIDENT Shereen Pollak COO Damon Gross DIRECTOR OF STORES Kathy Harmon Dobos BREITLING & ROBERTO COIN DENVER MANAGER Paul Witmer NEWPORT GENERAL MANAGER Sandi Perry PHOENIX GENERAL MANAGER Bill Eckles BREITLING, HUBLOT & IWC SCOTTSDALE MANAGER John Hoehn DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Jennifer Ferkenhoff DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL MARKETING Molly Blum Publishing Team DESIGN DIRECTOR Laura Manthey, Laura Manthey Design CONCEPT DIRECTOR Jennifer Ferkenhoff EDITOR Kelsie Miller EDITOR, GRAPHIC DESIGN Elle Powell CREATIVE Edwin Santa, Fady Florez Contributors Art Bodin, Victoria Gomelsky, Shoshana Leon, Roberta Naas, Serge Panczuk, Anne Marie Panoringan, Leslie Garisto Pfaff, Elle Powell, Celine Simon, Daliah Singer Published in Partnership with Wainscot Media EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Rita Guarna CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stephen Vitarbo SENIOR EDITOR Daria Meoli SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Darius Amos LIFESTYLE EDITOR Haley Longman EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Gianna Barone ART DIRECTOR Victoria Beall Publishing Staff GROUP PUBLISHER Shae Marcus ACCOUNT MANAGER Lisa Menghi DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION AND CIRCULATION Susan Windrum ADVERTISING SERVICES DIRECTOR Jacquelynn Fischer GRAPHIC DESIGNER, AD SERVICES Violeta Mulaj PRODUCTION ART ASSOCIATE Christopher Ferrante ACCOUNTING Agnes Alves, Megan Frank, Randall Tashjian Wainscot Media CHAIRMAN Carroll V. Dowden PRESIDENT & CEO Mark Dowden SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS Shae Marcus, Carl Olsen VICE PRESIDENTS Nigel Edelshain, Tom Flannery, Rita Guarna Printed in USA by Lithographix, Inc. Due to the fluctuating prices of diamonds, gold and platinum, prices are subject to change and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. While we have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this magazine, we are not responsible for descriptive, typographic and photographic errors or omissions. Merchandise may be one-of-a-kind and subject to change. Some items enlarged to show detail. For mailing list removal, please email unsubscribe@hpjewels. ©2019 Hyde Park Jewelers Front Cover: Fernanda Kinder (NEXT Management) photographed by Edwin Santa. Fernanda wears ASHOKA ® diamond eternity bands in platinum, ASHOKA ® Izzy hoop earring in 18K white gold, Kwiat Legacy diamond bracelet with ASHOKA ® and brilliant round cut diamonds in platinum, Kwiat Legacy diamond oval open link bracelet with ASHOKA® diamonds in platinum, and Kwiat Legacy diamond bracelet with ASHOKA® diamonds in platinum. Prices upon request Back Cover: OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch Co-Axial Master Chronometer Moonphase Chronograph 44.25mm. $10,700

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Hyde Park Collection Round and baguette diamond bracelet in 18K white gold, 5.27 carats total, $18,000. Ruby and diamond bracelet in 18K white gold, 11.71 carats ruby, 2.6 carats diamond, $32,000. Emerald cut diamond bracelet in platinum, 15.89 carats total $95,000. Sapphire and diamond bracelet in 18K white gold, 7.91 carats sapphire, 6.40 carats diamonds $42,000.

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CONTRIBUTORS ROBERTA NAAS is a veteran watch and jewelry journalist who began her career in the early 1980s, and was the first female watch journalist in the United States. She is the editor and founder of the authoritative watch blog, ATimelyPerspective.com, has written six books on watches, writes for numerous consumer publications–and always brings forth in her work the essence of what makes watches tick. She tirelessly travels the world in search of watch and jewelry news.

SERGE PANCZUK is a citizen of France and Switzerland and currently lives in Orange County. The “watch bug” hit him when he lived in Geneva for many years. During his time in the most famous watch city in the world, Serge had the opportunity to be very close to not only the timepieces, but also people who create, make and sell them. Serge has been a contributor to many international magazines and watch blogs, including Nobleman Magazine, GMT Magazine, Worldtempus, Watches Magazine and more. To talk watches with Serge, email serge@panczuk.com or find @serge92604 on Instagram.

VICTORIA GOMELSKY is editor-in-chief of JCK, a 150-year-old jewelry trade publication based in New York City. Her freelance work has appeared in the New York Times, WSJ Magazine, Robb Report, AFAR, the Hollywood Reporter and Waking Up American: Coming of Age Biculturally, an anthology published by Seal Press. She specializes in jewelry and watch writing but her greatest love has always been travel—60 countries and counting. Victoria divides her time between New York City and Los Angeles.

DALIAH SINGER is an award-winning, Denver-based freelance journalist who writes regularly about travel, the outdoors, social justice and more. Daliah has more than seven years of staff magazine experience and is contributing editor at 5280 and the editor of 5280 Traveler. Other clients include tourism bureaus, United Airlines and Kaiser Permanente Colorado. You can follow along with her adventures at www.daliahsinger.com.

CELINE SIMON is a freelance luxury watch writer who has enjoyed working in the horology industry for over ten years. Like many of the high-end timepieces she writes about, she comes from Switzerland–the heart of fine watchmaking. From Singapore to Montreal to Geneva to Dubai, Celine has lived all over the world but now calls the beaches of Southern California home. You can find her at celine-simon.com.

GEORGIA ALEXIA BENJOU began her 20+ year fashion career as a national buyer and merchandiser for luxury designer houses. She is now an on-model and still life stylist for print and film, and writes about beauty and fashion trends, product roundups and does industry personality interviews. Her clients include award-winning regional publication 5280 magazine, for which she is the fashion editor, as well as Numéro Russia, Inspirato Magazine, dreamingless, and Design Scene. She has also styled advertising campaigns for The Brown Palace Hotel, Costco, Clairol, Oil of Olay, Photo: Melanie Watson

Glo Cosmetics and American Crew.

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Hyde Park Collection Emerald, blue chalcedony, mother-of-pearl, and diamond earrings in 18K white gold, 2.74 carats total Colombian emeralds, $25,000. Aquamarine and diamond ring in 18K white gold, 6.37 carats aquamarine, 2.55 carats diamond total $21,500. Round and baguette diamond bracelet in 18K white gold, 5.27 carats total, $18,000. Ruby and diamond bracelet in 18K white gold, 11.71 carats ruby, 2.6 carats diamond, $32,000. Emerald cut diamond bracelet in platinum, 15.89 carats total $95,000. Sapphire and diamond bracelet in 18K white gold, 7.91 carats sapphire, 6.40 carats diamonds $42,000.

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WHAT’S INSIDE JEWELRY Kwiat.............................16

Marli..............................74

Fred Leighton...............18

Maria Canale................96

Chanel...........................32

My Story........................97

Hyde Park Estate.........38

Mémoire........................97

Norman Silverman......40

Alessandra Donà..........98

Roberto Coin.................48

Hyde Park.....................98

Marco Bicego.................58

Penny Preville..............99

Spinelli Kilcollin...........62

Pesavento....................100

Nikos Koulis.................70

Dinh Van.....................101

WATCHES Cartier...........................12

Breitling........................64

Panerai..........................20

Roger Dubuis................72

Tudor.............................22

TAG Heuer....................76

Patek Phillipe...............24

Nomos............................78

Chanel...........................30

Longines........................80

Grand Seiko..................42

Pinel & Pinel.................89

Jaeger LeCoultre..........53

Oris..............................109

Omega...........................54

G-Shock.......................114

Rolex..............................60

Movado........................120

FEATURES Ladies Watch Report...............................................................28 Jewels Are Forever..................................................................34 Watch Collector Stories............................................................82 Dare to Dream..........................................................................90 Travel Spotlight: Denver.......................................................102 Inspiring Women Spotlight: Denver....................................108 Travel Spotlight: OC..............................................................110 William Henry........................................................................113 Travel Spotlight: Phoenix/Scottsdale...................................116 Inspiring Women Spotlight: Phoenix...................................119 Jewelry Wardrobe Updates...................................................122 Hyde Park Style File..............................................................126

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WIC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, 45mm, 18K rose gold case, black alligator strap. $46,700. Lada Kravchenko (Wilhelmina) photographed by Edwin Santa. Hair and makeup by Fady Florez.

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ABOUT HYDE PARK Founded in 1976, Hyde Park is one of the premier independent jewelers in the nation. We have traveled throughout parts of Europe, Asia and the Middle East to develop relationships with designers, artisans and esteemed manufacturing houses. Over the decades, Hyde Park has developed a reputation of trust, fairness, quality and integrity throughout the world. Hyde Park is a recognized leader in the commitment to responsible business practices, environmental preservation and philanthropic support. We established the non-profit foundation, Diamonds in the Rough, to support over 100 philanthropic organizations, including Denver Health, Global Down Syndrome Foundation and Girls Inc. Our mission is to celebrate life’s precious moments by providing the finest products and service while exceeding expectations of quality, value and integrity. We invite you to explore our collection of extraordinary jewelry and fine timepieces.

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Medium Model

yellow gold case and bracelet with diamonds. $27,100

SLEEK, MYSTERIOUS, BELOVED: THE CARTIER PANTHER REIMAGINED By Roberta Naas Few luxuries in life offer a timeless elegance and embody true self-confidence. Cartier, though, knows how to bring an unmatched savoir faire to everything it touches, designing dreams in a masterful way. One of its most legendary is La Panthère. Long an icon for the brand, the mysterious and wonderful panther –realized in full form or in a silky interpretation for the wrist– is not only extraordinary but also forever evolving. Since Jeanne Toussaint introduced the panther to the Cartier menagerie in the first half of the 20th century, the sleek feline has brought elegance and exquisite beauty to life time and again. Year after year, Cartier re-imagines the panther– offering new and incredibly alluring timepieces that capture imaginations and enrapture discerning women around the world. This year, the French maison reimagines the Panthère watch in manchette and mini versions that are equal parts jewelry and timepiece. Sophisticated and streamlined, the new watch collection features a square dial with softened cushioned corners inset into luscious interwoven linked bracelets. The manchette watches are larger in width, with multiple rows of links and a rectangular dial set into the cuff in an asymmetric manner. The ultra-feminine mini Panthère watches are also finished with soft supple bracelets that wrap around the wrist like the panther’s tail, embracing the wrist in an indulgent manner that feels

Small Model

pink gold and steel case and bracelet with diamonds. $11,100.

as good as it looks. The mini watches are all about proportion, and are fitted with either a single bracelet or a triple-loop bracelet for added attitude. Designed in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold, as well as in two-tone formats, this collection include versions without diamonds entirely to those with diamond-set cases or bracelets. Powered by quartz movements, the new Panthère watches bring a lustrous and immediately identifiable look to the wrist. Panthère de Cartier. 13


Large Model 39.8mm steel case, interchangeable metal and leather bracelets. $6,850

Medium Model 35.1mm yellow gold and steel case, interchangeable metal and leather bracelets. $9,100

Large Model 39.8mm pink gold case, interchangeable leather bracelets. $17,800 Large Model 39.8mm steel case, interchangeable metal and leather bracelets. $6,850

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Medium Model, 35.1mm steel case, interchangeable metal and leather bracelets. $6,250

XL Chronograph Model 43.3mm gold and steel case, interchangeable metal and rubber bracelets. $13,500

SANTOS DE CARTIER EMBRACES THE MODERN SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE By Roberta Naas Imagine the early 1900s –a time of pioneering spirits and exploration. In Paris, Alberto Santos-Dumont, an adventurer and early aviation lover, could be seen flying his dirigibles around the Eiffel Tower. One day, he told his friend Louis Cartier that it was difficult to pull his watch from his coat pocket to check the time while working all of the hand controls, so in 1904, Cartier developed a wristwatch for Santos-Dumont that, a few years later, would go into production as the first modern wristwatch of its kind: the Santos de Cartier. Pure in design with a square dial mirroring the four corners of the Eiffel Tower, set into a rectangular tapered case and featuring visible screws on the bezel, the watch has become an iconic pillar for the brand. Embodying elegance and simplicity, the Santos has undergone a host of evolutions over the years, and today is one of Cartier’s most coveted collections for watch connoisseurs. Now, Cartier brings the collection full circle with striking new pieces that run

Large Model 39.8mm pink gold case, interchangeable leather bracelets. $17,800

the gamut from the classic design, to a decidedly urban chic chronograph and even a stylized skeleton Santos de Cartier that will have all eyes on it. The new models are finished with alligator leather straps or link bracelets and are crafted in gold, steel or both. Each is a vision of emotionally inspired design and top-notch watchmaking prowess.

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KWIAT PAVES THE WAY WITH DIAMONDS Kwiat stands for more than beautiful diamonds. Behind the name is a family that has mastered the craft of creating the most beautifully cut diamonds in the world. It began in 1907, when Sam Kwiat opened his store in New York City. Soon, his son David, joined him, turning his passion for diamonds into what would become one of the most trusted houses of jewelry design. Today, David’s son, Lowell, and his sons, Greg, Russell and Cory, follow in Sam’s footsteps, crafting the most exquisite diamond jewelry. The crafting process starts with setting the strictest standards for diamond cutting. Nature gives a stone its color and clarity, but it takes the hand of a master craftsman to shape it into something brilliant. Without a superior cut, even a diamond with perfect color and clarity will appear dull and lifeless. At Kwiat, every diamond is cut with precision to unlock the brilliance within. In fact, their cut is so precise that their round brilliant diamonds exceed the Excellent cut grade set forward by the GIA, the premier diamond grading institute. All Kwiat round diamonds receive a cut grade of Excellent but only a subset of GIA Excellent diamonds are worthy of becoming a Kwiat diamond. Details do not stop at cut. Every piece of diamond jewelry is light and airy, designed to float comfortably against the skin. Flexible and fluid connections allow jewelry to move easily with the wearer. Diamonds are perfectly matched in clarity, color and carat, then set into jewelry designed specifically for their stones. In addition to the brand’s many exquisite and proprietary cuts, Kwiat is the exclusive distributor of the ASHOKA® diamond in North America. The ASHOKA® diamond is a spectacular patented cut, featuring an arrangement of 62 facets, making it as distinctive as it is dazzling. Kwiat designs and produces an exquisite collection of ASHOKA® diamond jewelry, ranging from spectacular engagement rings and wedding bands, to stunning necklaces and everything in between. It takes a special stone to create an ASHOKA® and less than 1% of diamonds meet the exacting criteria. Taking up to six months to cut, the process of faceting an ASHOKA® diamond is extremely precise. As a result, these extraordinary gems have the most proportional consistency and symmetry of all fancy-shape diamonds, making them perfect for jewelry such as wedding bands and rivière necklaces that require symmetrical and consistent stones. The unique faceting pattern and brilliance of the ASHOKA® diamond also display a bigger and brighter diamond that appears one to two color grades higher than its GIA grading report, as well as 30% to 50% larger than diamonds of the same carat weight. Above: ASHOKA ® diamond drop earring with sapphire and diamond halo and sapphire top.

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ASHOKA Collection ®

A trademarked diamond cut that is as distinctive as it is beautiful, the ASHOKA® cut features a unique arrangement of 62 facets that create a dazzling prismatic effect, giving each gem a fiery brilliance. The process of cutting an ASHOKA® is extraordinarily precise– every finished stone of identical weight has the exact same proportions and dimensions. The consistency and symmetry of the cut set it apart from all other fancy shape diamonds.

ASHOKA ® diamond French hook earring with sapphire halo. Silhouette brilliant round diamond with sapphire halo pendant necklace. Silhouette brilliant round diamond with sapphire halo French hook earring. ASHOKA ® diamond pendant necklace with sapphire halo.

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Signed Fred Leighton A collection of contemporary jewels that draws inspiration from the past. Vintage elements reimagined into new silhouettes sit alongside modern designs inspired by historical periods. Designed in Fred Leighton’s New York studio, each Signed Fred Leighton jewel is limited edition or one-of-a-kind. Signed by Fred Leighton Round Diamond Collet Semi-Riviere Necklace Signed by Fred Leighton Round Diamond Collet Cluster Pendant Necklace Signed by Fred Leighton Round Diamond 7 Stone Collet Necklace Prices upon request

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Starry Night White and natural fancy colored diamonds of superior brilliance reflect stars plucked from the sky in the Starry Night collection. A combination of masterful craftsmanship and brilliant diamonds in marquise and round cuts are artfully mounted so the metal practically disappears–leaving designs of marvelous movement that glisten like the galaxies above.

Starry Night three row ring with brilliant round cut diamonds, in white gold. Starry Night bangle with brilliant round cut diamond, in white gold. Starry Night oval hoop earrings with brilliant round cut diamonds, in white gold. Starry Night three row ring with mixed fancy shaped diamonds, in white gold. Starry Night bangle with mixed fancy shaped diamonds, in white gold. Starry night half collar necklace with brilliant round cut diamonds, in white gold.


Panerai Submersible, 42mm brushed steel case, rubber strap. $8,700

Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech™, 47mm Carbotech™ case, rubber strap. $19,400

Panerai Submersible Carbotech™, 47mm Carbotech™ case, rubber strap. $17,900


INTO THE DEEP WITH THE PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE Panerai writes another chapter in its diving watch story with the new standalone Submersible collection By Celine Simon Panerai’s heritage is steeped in military service, having

Submersible as its own standalone collection. While

supplied the Royal Italian Navy with precision instruments

the new Submersible watches retain the familiar

and timepieces since the early days of the company. In fact,

crown-protecting bridge, these modern divers also

the design of today’s Panerai Radiomir watch is based on

include plenty of their own features. For instance,

a prototype from 1936, developed specifically for Italian

Carbotech™ (a carbon fiber composite Panerai first

military “frogmen” divers just before World War II. Post-

introduced to watchmaking in 2015) is a favorite

war, the Florentine-based Panerai updated the designs

material of the Submersible collection. Characterized

of its mil-spec dive watches in the 1950s. The then-new

by a matte black surface with a wavy finish,

timepieces included a large lever-operated bridge to

Carbotech™ is lighter than titanium and ceramics

push the winding crown into the case for improved water

yet highly resistant to shocks and corrosion–making

resistance – a signature design trait of current Panerai

it an ideal material to use in robust dive watches.

Luminor watches.

Other material choices within the new Submersible

While Radiomir and the Luminor watches were originally

collection include stainless steel, gold or bronze, along

created as diving watches for navy frogmen, their designs

with the option of ceramic bezels.

do not fall in line with modern diving watch standards.

The new Submersible watches come with either

Specifically, modern dive watches must (among other

42mm or 47mm case sizes, which are water-resistant

things) have unidirectional rotating bezels calibrated to

to 300 meters deep and all house highly legible dials

60-minutes to permit divers to time how long they are

typical of Panerai design codes. What’s more, in honor

underwater. Therefore, at the dawn of this millennium,

of the company’s links to the military, there are also

Panerai introduced a special-edition Luminor Submersible

Submersible “Marina Militare” editions, engraved

watch as the brand’s modern diver, complete with a

with “Survival Instrument” and an image of a

unidirectional rotating bezel and a water resistance rating

frogman commando.

of 1000 meters. Over the following years, Panerai regularly

Highlighting the brand’s roots of creating purpose-

released new iterations of the Luminor Submersible in fresh configurations, making it an essential part of the

built watches to accompany combat divers while adhering to today’s expectations of what constitutes a

company’s lineup.

dive watch, the new Submersibles illustrate Panerai’s

This year, Panerai emphasizes its commitment to

ability to pay tribute to the past while also looking

contemporary

forward to the future.

diving

watches

by

repositioning

the

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Black Bay Bronze 43mm bronze case, fabric strap. $4,050


BLACK BAY BRONZE – A NOD TO TUDOR’S NAVAL HERITAGE The choice of bronze is, in essence, a tribute to the longstanding relationship between Tudor and some of the largest navies in the world–including the French Marine Nationale and the U.S. Navy –which all extensively made use of Tudor diving watches. This started soon after the launch of Tudor’s first diving watch, reference 7922 in 1954, and lasted well into the 1980s. The case of the Black Bay Bronze is made from a bronze aluminum alloy. The material has historically been used in naval engineering for mechanical parts submerged for long amounts of time (propellers for example) and because of its exceptional anti-corrosion properties. A typical aluminum bronze alloy would usually contain 4% to 14% of aluminum, the rest being copper. In its new condition, the Black Bay Bronze case possesses a goldenyellow tone. However, the alloy developed by Tudor is a metal that is “alive” and can change in appearance and patina depending on the conditions it is subjected to. Typically, the case will darken or warm up in tone to variable degrees. It took the R&D team at Tudor three years to discover the ideal bronze alloy; one that would allow for the development of a beautifully colored patina that is controlled, homogeneous and noble– eventually stabilizing to a deep chocolate tone unique to each watch, dependent on the lifestyle of its owner.

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Black Bay Bronze, 43mm bronze case, black leather strap. $4,050


PATEK PHILIPPE SWEETENS ITS OFFERING OF WOMEN’S WATCHES By Roberta Naas Ask any watch lover about the brands that absolutely must

announcement of this collection took place in late 2018, the watches

be in an award-winning collection, and you will definitely

are just making their way to stores now. The new collection is geared

hear the name Patek Philippe at the top. Since its inception

for today’s savvy women who are looking for a mechanical timepiece

in 1839, this brand has been building some of the most

to wear for everything from daily wear to an elegant soirée.

exclusive and coveted watches in the world. What one may

It was 20 years ago that Patek Philippe unveiled its first line designed

not know, though, is the brand has long been making watches for women, and is currently stepping up its game even more in that arena.

for women. Twenty-4. It was a stunning rectangular-shaped quartz watch that took the world by storm. In fact, the collection is still in the Patek Philippe lineup today. In honor of that 20th anniversary,

One of the most important moves Patek Philippe has made

though, Patek Philippe wanted to bring the collection to new heights.

in the realm of women’s mechanical watches comes in the

The new Twenty-4 Automatic, like its name suggests, is a series of

form of the new Twenty-4 Automatic watches. While the

watches with automatic mechanical movements inside. Additionally,

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the watches boast round cases, making them universally appealing to women. While creating a women’s round watch with a mechanical movement inside may sound easy, if you are Patek Philippe –with incredibly high standards–it is no simple feat. In fact, the Twenty-4 Automatic was five years in the research and development stages, for the case had to be absolutely perfect in terms of size, thinness, curves and more. Finally, after more than 40 prototypes were tossed aside, the brand landed on the final rendition: a 36mm watch in several iterations finished with a supple three-row link bracelet. Designed for comfort, ease of wear and elegance, the new Twenty-4 Automatic watches offer hours, minutes, sweep seconds and date indication. More importantly, they are equipped with a movement that answers the call of sophisticated women who care about the mechanics inside the watch. Each piece is powered by the selfwinding (the movement of the wrist winds the watch) Caliber 324 SC that consists of an incredible 217 parts, including a hightech Spiromax® balance spring. In typical Patek Philippe style, the components are all meticulously and elaborately finished to ultra-high standards in order to carry the Patek Philippe Seal (a Seal that the brand says meets even higher finishing standards than the coveted Geneva Seal). The watches feature a sapphire crystal caseback for viewing of their impeccable craftsmanship. There are seven versions of the Twenty-4 Automatic, all of which boast a hand-polished bezel set with 160 Top Wesselton diamonds set in a lace-like pattern across two rows. The dials of the watches, offered in rose gold and stainless, are what sets each timepiece apart from the next. Dials range from sunburst gradient gray/black or rich blue on the steel models, and rich brown sunburst dial or silver gray with linen-like textured motif for the rose gold watches. Applied Arabic numerals and baton hands with luminescent coating complete the functional yet elegant appeal. For those who prefer a little more bling in their lives, there is also an all-diamond set Twenty-4 Automatic that is set entirely with 469 Top Wesselton diamonds on the bezel, lugs, crown and outer links of the bracelet.

The Twenty-4 Automatic watch in rose gold with a rich brown sunburst and silvery, vertical and horizontal satin-finished dial variations. 25


The Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 7150/ 250R-001 is powered by an in-house-developed classic chronograph movement with six patents. It also offers pulsometer scale and is finished with a diamond bezel.

Patek Philippe’s Women’s Complications Never one to rest on its laurels, Patek Philippe also understands that women want complications, too. For that reason, the brand offers women’s complicated watches that do more than just tell time. A master at creating some of the most complicated watches in the world thanks to its nearly two centuries of watchmaking expertise, Patek Philippe is a leader of the pack in this arena. Among its top women’s complications are dual time watches, world time watches, chronographs and calendars. In fact, one of the more sought-after pieces for women is the Ref. 7130 G World Time watch. The white gold watch with an azure blue hand-guilloche dial offers time around the world, complete with day and night indication in an incredibly easy-to-use format. The complex 239-part self-winding mechanical movement underscores the brand’s capabilities when it comes to packing a mechanical punch into an alluring package.

Patek Philippe’s Ref. 7130G World Time watch is crafted in 18K white gold and offers the world’s time zones by city on the dial. It also features a day and night indication for the second time zone.

Patek Philippe And Women Patek Philippe has been creating women’s watches almost since its inception. As early as 1851, Patek Philippe crafted exquisite specialty pendant watches for ladies with lavish engravings and gemstone work. In fact, the brand has made quite an impression on women over the centuries. Here are some highlights.

1851

1868

During the exposition at the London Crystal Palace, Patek Philippe captures the fancy of Queen Victoria with its creations. She acquires the dainty pendant watch No. 4719 with diamond roses on blue enamel.

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Patek Philippe crafts the keywinding lady’s bracelet watch No. 27 368, the first wristwatch in the history of Swiss horology. It is sold to Hungarian Countess Koscowicz in 1876.

1916 Patek Philippe sells the first grand complication ladies’ wristwatch No. 174 603 to D.O. Wickham in New York. It is a dainty platinum watch with a five-minute repeater. Thus, Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with a chiming mechanism is a ladies’ timepiece.


The

Patek

Philippe

Chronograph

Ref.

7150/250R-001 is another piece beloved by women thanks not only to the aesthetics, but also because it houses the brand’s chronograph

an

women goes on and on. In fact, of its 15 new

first

products released at Baselworld 2019, five are

developed in 2009. The chronograph acts

women’s watches that run the gamut from

very much like a stopwatch, enabling the

sporty new self-winding Nautilus watches to

wearer to time multiple events without it

ultra elegant high jeweled pieces, such as the

affecting the timekeeping functions.

Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie watch (Ref. 4978

six

movement patents

that and

has was

blend heritage and modernity, taking the 18K rose gold 38mm round chronograph Ref 7150/250R-001 to new heights. This

1999

Intrinsic Elegance The list of Patek Philippe’s timepieces for

Patek Philippe excels in its ability to deftly

Launch of the Twenty-4® ladies’ wristwatch, the first diamond-set steel watch.

21st century with a visually arresting design.

first entirely in-house-developed classic incredible

High-jeweled watches are a strong part of Patek Philippe’s offerings. This new Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie watch Ref. 4978 400G boasts a unique spiral setting of diamonds on the dial.

72 diamonds bring the timepiece firmly into the

400G) that features a unique spiral setting of diamonds on the dial that swirl from the center and continue all the way to the edges, where it meets a diamond-set bezel.

watch boasts a vintage look thanks to the

When it comes to women’s watches, Patek

box-like sapphire crystal and silvery opaline

Philippe produces these pieces in limited

dial with a pulsometer scale that allows

numbers–often due to the sheer time it takes to

for measuring the heart beat, much like

hand-build a single caliber –and endows each

the 1950s chronographs the brand made.

piece with the highest horological standards.

However, sleek styling and a bezel set with

2004 Introduction of the casual Aquanaut Luce collection comprising stainless steel ladies’ wristwatches with diamond-set bezels and attractive dial and strap color choices.

2009 Patek Philippe presents the first chronograph movement crafted completely in-house. It is self-winding and has a classic column wheel as well as a horizontal clutch– the new CH 29-535 PS caliber premieres with the Ladies First chronograph Ref. 7071 and is to replace all future models formerly equipped with the outsourced caliber CH 27-70 movement.

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2011 Patek Philippe presents two grand complication ladies’ wristwatches: the Ladies First Minute Repeater Ref. 7000 and the Ladies First Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 7059.


IT’S HER TIME

What’s trending in the world of women’s watches By Elle Powell and Patricia Sherman In addition to aesthetic updates, such as cool-colored dials, the combination of diamonds on steel, and generally appearing more jewelry-esque, the latest ladies watches also feature some new case sizes and complications that are as striking as they are useful. Whether you are looking for a glamorous piece for your wardrobe or something more sporty, there’s an abundance of alluring timepieces that are sure to please.

The Rolex 36mm Day-Date in 18K

CARTIER PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER

JAEGER-LECOULTRE RENDEZ-VOUS MOON

gold and diamonds on the President

The new Panthère de Cartier cuff

Simultaneously

bracelet

its

watch in 18K pink gold and diamonds

geometry and inviting in its organic

impeccable beauty, distinction and

is a refreshing and ever-more-opulent

details, the Jaeger-LeCoultre

prestige. The stunning turquoise

take on the original models from the

Rendez-Vous Moon Medium is

dial

Rolex

1980s. The wide, semi-open chain

splendidly refined. The pink gold

readability as well as day-date

and off-center dial bring a novel

case and 107 diamonds, paired with

functionality. Price upon request

edginess to the collection that is

interchangeable straps and moon

balanced out by the beautiful mixed

phases, render this timepiece a

gemstone pattern on the bezel.

paragon of feminine functionality.

Price upon request

$23,700

ROLEX DAY-DATE 36 is

features

unrivaled

signature

in

28

precise

in

its


BREITLING SUPEROCEAN AUTOMATIC 36

TAG HEUER CARRERA QUARTZ 36MM

Breitling’s Superocean Automatic 36 is an ideal

Monochrome purple has never looked better than

watch for the active woman. With the versatile new

on the Ladies 36mm TAG Heuer Carrera. The

case size, sky blue dial and water resistance up to

tone-on-tone dial pattern is unique yet refined,

200 meters, this timepiece effortlessly combines

while the alligator strap adds a luscious texture

performance and style. $3,450

to the mix. $2,000

PATEK PHILIPPE TWENTY~4 AUTOMATIC

PANERAI LUMINOR DUE 38MM

Patek Philippe is a master of timepieces cum jewelry,

high-level performance for service(men) in the

and the ladies Twenty~4 Automatic is no exception.

Navy. They still don’t advertise a watch specifically

The brilliant blue sunburst dial surrounded by a

for women, but the 38mm Luminor Due is suitable

160 diamond-encrusted bezel is a true pleasure to

for both men’s and women’s wrist sizes. $6,000

For decades, Panerai has been associated with

behold. $26,080 29


J12 Watch, 38mm black ceramic and steel case, black ceramic bracelet. $5,700


12

THE NEW J IT’S ALL ABOUT SECONDS Inspired by the sleek designs of

identity that made the watch

racecars and refined silhouettes

an icon. The timepiece features

of yachts from the America’s

an all-ceramic case set with a

Cup, the J12 watch became an

sapphire crystal to reveal the full

instant icon when it launched

beauty of the Caliber 12.1, a

in 2000. For CHANEL, it

new self-winding movement

was the first sports watch;

manufactured exclusively for

the first automatic watch;

CHANEL. The lines of the

the first unisex watch; the

bezel, case and crown are

first scratch-resistant high-

refined, and the bracelet links

tech ceramic watch.

are subtly elongated.

At the dawn of its 20th

It is not a new J12 watch: It is

anniversary, the J12 has been

the J12. That of today, tomorrow

reinvented while preserving the

and yesterday as well.

J12 Watch, 38mm white ceramic and steel case with diamonds, white ceramic bracelet. $7,000

©2019 CHANEL®, Inc., J12®

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COCO CRUSH YOUR WAY, YOUR ALLURE

The iconic quilted motif–an emblem of CHANEL since the launch of the iconic 2.55 handbag in 1955–is showcased in this daring and ultra-modern jewelry collection. Rings on each finger, bracelets worn all together on one wrist, with or without a clasp, right-side up or upside down. Pieces in yellow gold, BEIGE GOLD and white gold*, all in 18K. Set with diamonds for endless mixing, matching and layering.

Quilted motif ring, small version, in 18K BEIGE GOLD and diamonds. $4,500 Quilted motif ring, medium version, in 18K white gold and diamonds. $7,750 Quilted motif ring, small version, in 18K yellow gold. $2,400 Quilted motif bangle in 18K BEIGE GOLD. $7,050 Quilted motif bangle in 18K white gold and diamonds. $10,500 Quilted motif bangle in 18K yellow gold and diamonds. $9,950

The most beautiful way to wear your COCO CRUSH jewelry is however suits you best. White gold plated with thin layer of Rhodium for color

*

©2019 CHANEL®, Inc., COCO CRUSH®

32


Jewels

ARE Forever © Museum of London

Lessons in the Enduring Art of Human Adornment BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

34


O

n a chilly December evening in 2011, I joined hundreds

the bathroom at Caesars and reported that she’d lost La

of the jewelry faithful inside a packed showroom at

Peregrina. “The only thing left on her neck was the chain,

Christie’s New York City headquarters to watch Elizabeth

the diamond clasp and the pin where the pearl had been,

Taylor’s “Legendary Jewels” hit the auction block. When

so we all got down on our hands and knees on the pink shag

the final hammer fell, the sale brought in $115 million,

carpet, like Pepto Bismol,” Landrigan recalled in the wake

making her deluxe baubles the most valuable private

of the blockbuster sale. “She had two Lhasa Apsos. I heard

collection of jewelry ever sold at auction. It came as no

a crunch and saw the dog spit it out. I thought, hundreds

surprise that the evening’s top lot was La Peregrina, a

of years of history–gone.” But those of us gathered at

16th-century natural pearl suspended from a diamond,

Christie’s that night in 2011 knew the story had a happy

ruby, and cultured pearl necklace designed by Cartier.

ending: La Peregrina had survived the canine encounter

The piece fetched $11.8 million, setting the world auction

at Caesars unscathed, intent on continuing its action-

record for a pearl jewel, an exclamation mark befitting its

packed waltz through history. Implicit in the anecdote

nearly five centuries of storied ownership.

about the pearl’s illustrious provenance is something

Discovered off the coast of Panama in 1530, the 50.56 ct.

most people instinctually understand about jewelry but don’t often discuss: When we’re gone, it’s the only thing

pear-shape pearl had graced the necks of Mary I of England and Queens Margarita and Isabella of Spain, among

that remains.

others, before turning up at Sotheby’s in 1969, when Ward

Of all the stories that swirl around jewelry, here’s one

Landrigan, the former head of its jewelry department,

I think about often: In 2013, the Museum of London

sold it to Richard Burton for a mere $37,000. By now, La

exhibited a trove of Elizabethan and Jacobean jewels

Peregrina’s wanderings–indeed, its name translates from

that had been stashed around 1650 in a cellar beneath

the Spanish as “The Pilgrim”– are practically etched into

a tenement on the western end of a commercial street

jewelry-industry history. Less well-known, however, is

known as Cheapside. The mysterious cache was discovered

Landrigan’s wacky tale of delivering the pearl to Caesars

in 1913 by a demolition worker who broke through the

Palace in Las Vegas, where Burton presented it to Taylor

floorboards of 30-32 Cheapside and struck a wooden

on the occasion of her 37th birthday. To hear Landrigan

casket. It’s believed that the Hoard was the stock-in-trade

tell it, not 20 minutes had passed before Taylor, who’d been

of a jeweler who may have buried it for safekeeping before

drinking salty dogs (vodka and clam juice), emerged from

leaving to fight in the English Civil Wars of 1642 to 1651.

35


A century of politicking over who had rights to the tangled

and soda-can pull-tabs… which the tribe members wear to

mass of gems, cameos and ancient trinkets concluded with

ward off evil spirits.” The Pirahã do not store more than

the entire stockpile, about 500 pieces, going on display to

a few weeks’ worth of food because their concept of time

great fanfare. “The Cheapside Hoard: London’s Lost Jewels”

is based almost exclusively on experiences in the present

drew 125,000 people over the course of its six months at the

moment, and yet they have jewelry. A dozen years after

museum, plus plenty of astonished commentary about the

reading the article, I still marvel at that detail.

remarkable similarities between jewelry produced now and

Last fall, the Metropolitan Museum of Art helped me put

its long-ago antecedents: how the Hoard’s gold pendants,

all these disparate thoughts about jewelry in perspective.

signet rings and blackened silver baubles could easily be

From Nov. 12, 2018, to Feb. 24, 2019, “Jewelry: The Body

mistaken for contemporary pieces; and how modern-day

Transformed.” The exhibit is a philosophically ambitious

jewelers trained in hand-fabrication, were they to find

look at why and how jewelry is central to so many culture-

themselves in the 17th century, would have no trouble

defining, globe-spanning rituals, from marriages to battles

recognizing the techniques their predecessors in that era

to deaths. It challenges the most obvious assumptions about

used, so little have the basics of jewelry making changed.

jewelry, chiefly that it’s a frivolous ornament, pretty to look

Even more remarkable was the mere fact the Hoard had

at but utterly inconsequential.

survived. Most jewels from the past are melted down and

Divided into five galleries, the exhibition looked at

dismantled when fashions change or their owners need a quick

jewelry’s link to immortality; its role in conveying status

infusion of cash –the latter a testatment to jewelry’s age-old

and hierarchy; its use as an intermediary between heaven

ability to double as currency. Someone went to great lengths to

and earth (as when it serves as a bejeweled offering to the

conceal the Hoard precisely because it was valuable.

gods); its power to heighten feminine appeal; and, finally, its

Value and its corresponding quality, preciousness, however,

function as an object to be looked at, admired and awed by.

can be sticky points. While the jewelry we covet and keep

I didn’t have the pleasure of attending the exhibition, but

is often made of genuine, precious and lasting materials–

while researching a story about it for The New York Times,

notably diamonds, platinum and 18K gold– it doesn’t have

I had the opportunity to speak to the show’s lead curator,

to be. It can be made of flowers, or plastic, or wood. The

Melanie Holcomb.

incredible thing about jewelry is how much it matters to

Our conversation touched on many fascinating topics –

us, even when it’s composed of found objects, a worthless

jewelry’s 130,000-year-old roots, the omega-shaped mamuli ear

treasure, as it were.

pendants of eastern Indonesia’s Sumba Island, the enduring

Consider the lesson in “The Interpreter,” a 2007 article in

debate over whether jewelry is art or craft – to name a few.

The New Yorker about an American linguistics professor,

When I sat down to write the article, it was difficult to select

Dan Everett, who’d succeeded in translating a confounding

quotes. I found practically everything Holcomb said riveting.

language spoken by members of a remote Amazonian tribe

But the takeaway was clear: “To be human is to adorn

of hunter-gatherers called the Pirahã.

ourselves and to adorn ourselves is to be human,” she

What struck me most when I read the piece is a casual

concluded. “We think about it in the most superficial way

reference the article makes to the Pirahã’s adornment:

but it’s anything but superficial.”

“simple necklaces made from seeds, teeth, feathers, beads,

36


© Museum of London

Clockwise: Amethyst rosette brooch or mount from the Cheapside Hoard, late 16th– early 17th century; Gold, enamel, opal and amethyst necklace, c. 1897-99, by René-Jules Lalique; Ear ornament or pendant (Mamuli), Sumba Island, 19th century; Briolette amethyst pendant from the Cheapside Hoard, late 16th– early 17th century. 37


PERIOD DRAMA Amplify your glamour quotient with an estate jewel by one of the 20th century’s greatest makers. by Victoria Gomelsky In the broadest sense, jewelry falls into one of two categories: newly manufactured or secondhand. The former is easy to understand, but the latter is more complicated. A catchall term, secondhand can refer to antique jewelry, defined as anything more than 100 years old; period jewelry, referring to pieces from distinct design eras; and estate jewelry, a fancy name for pre-owned baubles of any age. Whatever you call it, the estate category is perennially in demand among tastemakers, particularly when talking about pieces signed by history’s greatest makers. Take the trio of designers whose work is featured here: J.E. Caldwell, a 19th century Philadelphia jeweler whose firm went on to become an icon of the Art Deco period; society jeweler David Webb, whose organic, color-intense jewels helped define the more-is-more aesthetic of the 1960s and ’70s; and Bulgari, a 135-year-old Roman firm known for its snake-shaped bracelet watches, antique coin jewelry and bold gold ’80s style. They may represent different looks and eras, but these secondhand pieces share one quality in spades: retro fabulousness.

David Webb emerald and diamond clip-on earrings, $35,000; and emerald and diamond ring in 18k yellow gold, $22,000

Triple-strand pearl necklace with citrine and diamond pendant in 18k yellow gold, $23,500

38


J. E. Caldwell Art Deco diamond and sapphire bracelet in platinum, $80,000 Art Deco round- and marquise-cut diamond bracelet in platinum, $42,500 and Art Deco ruby and diamond bracelet in platinum, $70,000

David Webb citrine and diamond clip-on earrings in 18k yellow gold, $35,000

Bulgari 5.18-ct. diamond ring in 20k yellow gold, price upon request

39


40


Established in 1983, Norman Silverman Diamonds has made its mark by offering a prestigious selection of large and rare white diamonds, as well as impressive fancy yellows, pinks and blues. Starting as an apprentice cutter, owner Norman Silverman discovered his inner passion for the finest gems. He visualizes each stone as a one-of-akind finished piece of jewelry, and thus the company prides itself on its uncanny ability to design remarkable treasures completely inspired by each diamond. Norman Silverman Diamonds is synonymous with the finest diamonds in the world. Known for maintaining values and integrity while catering to the jewelry wearer’s desires. From elegant engagement rings to fashion forward and timeless jewelry, Norman Silverman diamonds are distinctive and please even the most discerning eye.

“Let the diamond do the talking� ~ Norman Silverman

Classic radiant cut yellow diamond pendant. 7.26 carats. $133,000 Heart shaped yellow diamond pendant. 7.29 carats. $163,000 Radiant cut fancy yellow diamond dangle earrings. 6.77 carats. $157,500 Elegantly crafted yellow diamond pear shape drop earrings. 6.31 carats. $112,500 Radiant cut fancy yellow diamond, 9.13 carats, with two trapezoids, 2.03 carats in total, in platinum and 18K yellow gold. Price upon request

41


G

rand Seiko watches have

a distinctive look that reflects Japanese artistic tastes. The design is notable for the purity, simplicity and subtlety of its lines. Grand Seiko calls it “functional beauty,” a style that does not interfere with the reading of the time, but enhances it with harmonious case lines and uncluttered, easy-to-read dials. Key to the design are polished surfaces

FUNCTIONAL BEAUTY Grand Seiko combines cutting-edge technology with a minimalist aesthetic to create some of the world’s most accurate timepieces

that reflect rays of light. Since ancient times, Japanese people have admired the subtle gradations between light and shadow in nature.

With that inspiration, Grand Seiko uses a simple case design composed of a flat plane and curved line that respond to the movement of light. Grand Seiko creates this hardedged, flat-surfaced case through a process called zaratsu, or blade polishing. Hand-polishing gives the

The watch designer who created the Grand Seiko style in the 1960s, Taro Tanaka, said he had three goals: “That users will feel that the watches are high performance; to meet the Japanese aesthetic sense; and to design watches that will be judged highly forever.”

case a mirror-like smoothness where light and shadow play. 42


Grand Seiko makes watches with three different kinds of movements: mechanical, quartz and spring drive. Spring drive is a technical breakthrough invented by Grand Seiko that combines the best of mechanical and quartz technologies. It’s an automatic watch that gives quartz accuracy without using a battery. No other watch company has this technology. It’s a testament to the watchmaking savvy of a firm that has made mechanical watches since 1895. The ultimate test of a fine watch is how accurately it measures the passage of time. At this, Grand Seiko is unsurpassed. A Grand Seiko quartz watch is accurate to +/-10 seconds per year. Grand Seiko spring drive’s accuracy of +/-1 second per day is unprecedented for a watch powered by a mainspring. As for Grand Seiko mechanical watches, each one comes with a certificate indicating that it has passed the Grand Seiko Inspection Standard. Grand Seiko watches are tested in more positions, at more temperatures and for more days (17) to stricter tolerances than Swiss chronometers are. They must be accurate to -3 to +5 seconds per day (the Swiss standard is -4 to +6). If a mechanical watch doesn’t meet those strict tolerances, it is rejected.

SBGA407, 40.2mm stainless steel case, blue crocodile leather bracelet. $5,800

43


SBGA415, Winter “Taisetsu” 40mm titanium case and strap. $6,300


HERITAGE COLLECTION 6 2GS INSPIRED BY THE TWENTY-FOUR SEASONS OF JAPAN Unveiling the deep sensibilities, appreciation and reverence for Japan’s seasons, Grand Seiko introduced four timepieces to the Heritage Collection with the revered 62GS design. The traditional Japanese calendar marks not four but 24 seasons, or Sekki. From Risshun (beginning of spring) in early February to Daikan (greater cold) in late January, the 24 seasons of Japan celebrate the passage of time as a poetic journey, as nature awakens, blossoms, matures and slowly slumbers. Each timepiece, design and movement is a tribute to nature’s ever-changing expression and grandeur.

THE CASE DESIGN:

Grand Seiko. Each timepiece is designed, adjusted and hand-tested by acclaimed Grand Seiko craftsmen and

The Heritage Revival of the Iconic 62GS Grand Seiko paid tribute to its iconic 62GS –the revolutionary

craftswomen.

first automatic timepiece launched in 1967. Not only was the

Spring and Winter are assembled at the Shinshu Watch

62GS an automatic timepiece, it pushed the boundaries of

Studio. The 9R65 caliber is powered by the motive force

industry benchmarks in precision and accuracy.

of a mainspring using an exclusive escarpment system to

The signature design features a mirrored, multi-sided case and a wide dial opening, achieved with a bezel-free construction

regulate its precision, highlighting the seamless passage of time with a Spring Drive movement.

and Grand Seiko’s unique zaratsu polishing. Pure, refined and

Summer and Autumn are assembled at the Shizuku-

noble, the 62GS is a treasured classic.

ishi

Studio.

modern

THE CALIBER:

The

9S85

technology,

caliber

applying

uses

sophisticated,

innovations

to

the

precision controlling mainspring, the hairspring and the

The Twin-Peaks of Grand Seiko

escapement. Together the movement showcases the pure

The Four Seasons models feature two emblematic calibers of

power and dynamism of the Mechanical Hi-Beat 36,000.

45


SUMMER The vibrant green dial of the Rikka (the beginning of summer) embodies the energy and dynamism of life, as flora flourishes, Shoman. It is during this season that rice is sowed, Boshu, and when the night is shortest, Geshi. As the intensity of heat rises, Shosho, summer ends with the hottest day of the year, Taisho.

SBGA413, Spring “Shunbun,” 40mm titanium case and strap. $6,300

SPRING The subtle pink dial of the Spring model epitomizes the graceful Sakura season as blossoms waltz on water like glorious Hanaikada (rafts of blossoms). Starting with the beginning of spring, or Risshun, the first of the lunar year, the season comes to life when the snow gives way to rain, or Usui, and creatures awaken from hibernation, or Keichitsui. As day equals night, or Shunbun, the pure sky and renewal of nature come into existence, or Seimei. It is only when the rain makes the grain grow that spring comes to end.

46

SBGH271, Summer “Rikka,” 40mm titanium case and strap. $6,300


WINTER The silver-white dial of the Winter model illustrates the pure and clear landscape of Miyuki (deep snow). As nature slows down in the beginning of winter, or Ritto, welcomes flurries of snow, Koyuki, as all prepare for the heavy snow, Taisetsu. The season welcomes the shortest day of the year, Toji, as days become cold, Shokan, and life experiences the coldest day of the year, Daikan.

SBGH273, Fall “Shubun,” 40mm titanium case and strap. $6,300

FALL The rich blue dial of the Autumn model exemplifies the deep and melancholic expressions of Tsukiyo (the moonlit night). Opening with the beginning of fall, or Risshu, the period when temperatures are falling, Shosho, and all awaken to the morning dew, Hakuro. It is this season that day equals night, or Shubun, and the frost appears in the morning, Kanro. Fall enters hibernation upon the first frost, Soko.

SBGA415, Winter “Taisetsu,” 40mm titanium case and strap. $6,300

47


ROBERTO COIN’S GOLDEN TOUCH The creative mind behind Italy’s famous fine jewelry brand By Celine Simon A visit to Vicenza proved to be fateful for Roberto Coin

whether art, fashion, culture, architecture or Mother

as the allure of the Italian City of Gold pulled the

Nature to spark his vision. Take for example the

successful hotelier away from a career in hospitality

newly coined jewelry pieces from the Princess Flower

right into the heart of fine jewelry making. His jewelry

collection, which reinterpret the familiar silhouette

journey began in 1977 and for the next two decades,

of a simple flower into beautiful arrangements by

Roberto Coin honed his craft among the city’s best

infusing it with the graceful flow of postmodern

jewelry artisans.

architecture. By employing techniques such as twisted

Fueled by boundless imagination and armed with his

wires, melding surfaces with contrasting finishes, and bringing together a bouquet of different sized

learned expertise in jewelry, Roberto Coin founded

blossoms, the Princess Flower jewelry pieces evoke

his eponymous brand in 1996. The Italian jeweler’s fresh and sophisticated approach to traditional

the organic nature of a real floral garden.

jewelry techniques paved the way for Roberto Coin’s

“Nature and the animal kingdom have given me the

immediate global success and his creativity continues

inspiration to design collections that are not only

to inspire the brand’s story today.

precious in style but that also have an emotional and

“We live in a beautiful world, full of art expressions,

ethical commitment,” says Coin. “The ever-changing world of fashion gives me the energy to create new and

cultural heritage and fascinating stories from the

different designs, satisfying the style demand across

past,” says Coin. “Indeed, I was born in Venice, the city of beauty and mystery par excellence. Through

the globe, which continues to evolve.”

my personal vision, I translate all of this inspiring

Robert Coin’s magic lies in his unique design language

beauty and magic to my jewelry.”

that he fluently translates into the quintessential

To create more than 600 new jewelry pieces each year,

Italian fine jewelry we can all understand and love.

Roberto Coin seeks inspiration from everywhere, 48


Princess Flower and Venetian Princess Collection All in 18K Yellow gold (clockwise) Large Flower pendant. $990 Medallion pendant with diamonds. $5,500 Medium pendant. $840 Medium Pendant with diamonds. $1,650 Small Pendant with diamonds. $870 Hoop earrings with diamonds. $3,800 Ring with diamonds. $2,250 Ring with diamonds. $3,250

49


Classic Parisienne earrings with diamonds in 18K yellow and white gold. $3,150 Pois Moi Luna bangles in 18K rose and diamonds. $9,900 with diamond pavé in 18K white gold $26,500, and 18K yellow gold. $7,900 Pois Moi 2-row ring in 18K rose gold. $2,500 Pois Moi diamond pavé ring in 18K rose gold. $4,700 Pois Moi 2-row square diamond pavé accent bangle in 18K rose gold. $8,500 Chain link bracelet in 18K rose gold. $13,000 Pois Moi 2-row diamond pavé bangle in 18K rose gold. $23,000


The quintessential Italian fine jeweler since 1977. Roberto Coin is the creator of sophistication, blending modernity and tradition. Every single design is created with absolute freedom to magnify the beauty and personality of the one who wears it. Coin’s creativity took shape through the hands of the historical and most renowned Italian jewelry artisans, who brought his romantic and borderless imagination to life through their skills, telling his story through jewels that truly become works of art. Each piece is finished with a signature touch–a small synthetic ruby, dedicated as a secret gift of good wishes from the designer.

Pois Mois Luna reinterprets the iconic Pois Mois polka dot-inspired Roberto Coin collection with an intergalactic touch. Mimicking the uneven surface of the moon, the new Pois Mois Luna jewelry pieces feature craters of gold and brilliant-cut diamonds for avantgarde creations that sparkle as radiantly as the night sky.

Pois Moi Luna Collection Ring in 18K white gold and pavé diamonds. $5,900 Ring in 18K yellow gold. $2,500 Ring in 18K rose gold with diamonds. $3,700 Ring in 18K white gold and pavé diamonds. $10,500 Bangle in 18K rose gold and diamond accents. $5,900 Bangle in 18K rose gold and diamonds. $9,900 Bangle in 18K gold and pavé diamonds. $43,000

“Fashion is changeable. It is whimsical. Style is not. Style is a part of us, of our life, in every moment and every expression.” ~ Roberto Coin 51


Cento, derived from the Italian word for one hundred, symbolizes perfection and completion.

The New Florentine Diamond Suite Set with Roberto Coin Special Cento Cut Diamonds, this rare collection exemplifies the precise nature of Italian jewelry and excellence. The spectacular 100 facet diamonds are one of the most exclusive jewelry treasures of Roberto Coin. Each diamond is cut with nine symmetrical segments that create a unique floral pattern and enhance the brilliance of each stone. New Florentine adjustable lariat necklace, 8.32 Carats. $40,000 New Florentine tapered drop earring, 1.6 Carats. $7,900 New Florentine bracelet, 3.52 Carats. $14,500

52


Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox 42mm stainless steel case, rubber bracelet. $12,800

JAEGER-LECOULTRE POLARIS COLLECTION

INSPIRED BY HISTORY AND CONTEMPORARY SPORTING ELEGANCE Today’s man is someone who does it all. Always open to the new and untried, he finds surprising and innovative ways to make the most out of his life. For him, it’s about the journey, not the destination, and the experiences along the way.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Design The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection channels the best of the Grande Maison’s

For his lifestyle, he needs an elegant yet sporty watch that

watchmaking tradition and its attention to

can do it all, one that keeps up with his active pace: the

detail, while creating a contemporary sporty

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris.

yet elegant timepiece, with a vintage touch.

The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Collection

Historically black, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

Inspired by the iconic Memovox Polaris watch from 1968,

is now offered in a black or ocean blue

Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed a collection to join the

dial, bringing a sense of urban elegance.

brand’s existing pillars.

Inspired by an icon from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s vast

Not just a single homage to a historical reference, the Jaeger-

archives,

LeCoultre Polaris collection takes the spirit of Memovox

continues the adventure and takes it into the future,

Polaris and applies it to today’s man of action with a full

with a selection suitable for any man of action. Ready

range of timepieces, including the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

for anything, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris awaits.

Date and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox. 53

the

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Polaris

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date, 42mm stainless steel case, rubber bracelet. $8,250

collection


Astronaut Edwin “Buzz� Aldrin walks on the surface of the moon during the Apollo 11 mission, with the Omega Speedmaster on his wrist.

54


LUNAR LEGACY 50 Years Later,

Celebrating How Omega Reached the Moon Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin became the first

from different watch manufacturers around the

humans to walk on the lunar surface at 02:56 UTC

world. Several brands, including OMEGA, submitted

on July 21, 1969. Their moonwalk lasted just two and

their timepieces for the punishing tests–such as

a half hours but their achievements left a defining

thermal, shock, vibration and vacuum examinations,

footprint on the history of space exploration.

among others. Only the OMEGA Speedmaster

It was during this iconic moment that the OMEGA

survived these tests and, as a result, it was declared “Flight Qualified for all Manned Space Missions” on

Speedmaster Professional, strapped onto the wrists of the astronauts, became the first watch worn on

March 1, 1965.

the moon.

From that moment, OMEGA was the only supplier

The Apollo 11 mission is certainly the most

of watches for NASA’s Human Space Flight Program. It was trusted throughout the Mercury

celebrated moment in OMEGA’s considerable space

Missions, Gemini Program, and, of course, the Apollo

heritage. But the journey to reach that point began

Program–which had its sights set on the moon.

12 years earlier, in 1957, when the very first OMEGA

James Ragan, the NASA engineer who qualified

Speedmaster was launched.

the Speedmaster in 1965, has spoken about the

Thanks to its robust, reliable and easy-to-read

importance of OMEGA. “The watch was a backup.

design, the Speedmaster became known as the

If the astronauts lost the capability of talking to the

“pilots’ choice” and was adopted by those in the U.S.

ground, or the capability of their digital timers on

Air Force. Many of those aces went on to become

the lunar surface, then the only thing they had to

Mercury astronauts in NASA’s first manned space

rely on was the OMEGA watch they had on their

program and, in 1963, one of those astronauts,

wrist. It needed to be there for them if they had

Walter Schirra, took his own Speedmaster CK2998

a problem.”

on the Mercury-Atlas 8 mission. Orbiting the Earth

With the eyes of the world on Apollo 11 in 1969,

six times, his privately-owned model was the first

every piece of technology and kit had to be just

OMEGA watch worn in space.

right. There was no room for error. That’s why it is

By 1964, NASA’s space program was accelerating

such an honor for OMEGA to look back and know

rapidly and the brand officially went in search of

that its watches were implicitly trusted by everyone

one watch that it could rely on for all of its manned-

involved. Fifty years later, we are still incredibly

missions. Flight Crew Operations Director Deke

proud to have timed mankind’s greatest hour.

Slayton issued a request for wrist-worn chronographs

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Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition

Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Marking the golden anniversary of the first moon landing, OMEGA has produced a new Limited Edition Speedmaster of 1,014 pieces, delivered with a five-year warranty. Following the famous design of the Speedmaster BA125.022, this new chronograph has been crafted from an exclusive new 18K gold alloy and is powered by a brand new manual-winding Master Chronometer calibre 3861.

A TRIBUTE TO HEROES

The success of Apollo 11 was fervently celebrated around the

posthumously to the three crew members who died during Apollo

world in 1969. On November 25,1969, a special “Astronaut

1–Virgil Grissom, Ed White and Roger Chaffee. Watches 29 to

Appreciation Dinner” was held in Houston in tribute to the

32 were offered to Swiss watch industry leaders and politicians,

moon landing heroes.

without any engraved numbers.

The dinner was especially notable for a certain OMEGA Speedmaster

The public was given the opportunity to purchase model numbers

that was presented to the astronauts in NASA’s space program. The

33-1000. Although these models had a different caseback

watch, Speedmaster BA145.022, was crafted from 18K yellow gold

inscription, reading “OMEGA SPEEDMASTER,” “APOLLO XI

and included a rare burgundy bezel, as well as an inscription on the

1969” and “Ω THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON,”

caseback that read, “to mark man’s conquest of space with time,

they remained highly sought-after due to their rarity and

through time, on time.”

connection to space. They also came in an exclusive moon crater presentation box, which itself is a prized collector’s

This gold Speedmaster housed the calibre 861 and was

item today.

OMEGA’s very first commemorative numbered edition, with only 1,014 models produced from 1969 to 1973. The

It may also be interesting to know that model numbers

very first of these was created for U.S. President Richard

1001-1008 were later presented to the astronauts

Nixon, with number two allocated to the U.S. Vice

of Apollo 14 and 17, while models 1009-1014 were

President Spiro Agnew. These watches, however, were

reserved for other personalities.

later returned to OMEGA due to the U.S. government’s

For true Speedmaster fans, the BA145.022 is one of

strict gifting protocol.

the great highlights in the chronograph’s iconic history.

Model numbers 3-28 were given to the NASA astronauts,

Not only is it a beautiful watch to look at, with its blend of

including 19 of those who were present at the gala dinner in

gold and burgundy, but it also pays the highest tribute to the

Houston. This also included three models that were awarded

NASA astronauts who delivered mankind to the moon.

The original 1969 Speedmaster BA145.022 56


MOONWATCH HIGHLIGHTS Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph The OMEGA Speedmaster is one of OMEGA’s most iconic timepieces. Having been a part of all six lunar missions, the legendary Speedmaster is an impressive representation of the brand’s adventurous pioneering spirit. This OMEGA Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” features a black dial covered by a hesalite crystal and graced by a small seconds sub-dial, 30-minute recorder and 12-hour recorder along with a central chronograph hand. The black bezel, with its tachymetric scale, is mounted on a 42mm stainless steel case and presented on a matching bracelet. At the heart of this chronograph is OMEGA’s mechanical calibre 1861, the legendary manual-winding movement worn on the Moon. This timepiece is offered with a special Moonwatch presentation box which contains a “NATO” strap, a strap for astronauts, a tool to change the bracelet and a book highlighting Speedmaster’s adventures. $5,350

Speedmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer Moonphase Chronograph Blue Side Of The Moon Taking the spirit of exploration a step further, this new Moonphase features two infinitely small yet photo-realistic moons. This 44.25mm model features a blue sunbrushed dial with rhodium-plated indexes. At 6 o’clock is the accurate Moonphase indication, which features a metallic crystal disc microstructured to obtain a high resolution image of the moon. The stainless steel case is complemented by a blue ceramic bezel ring with Liquidmetal™ tachymeter scale and presented on a blue leather strap with a polished-brushed foldover clasp. $10,600

Speedmaster Moonwatch Dark Side Of The Moon From deep space comes this powerful version of the Moonwatch–“Dark Side of the Moon.” Machined from a single block of black ceramic, the iconic 44.25mm Speedmaster case is completed by a brushed ceramic bezel with matte chromium nitride tachymeter scale. The dial is again created from polished black ceramic and features blackened applied subdial rings at 3 and 9 o’clock, as well as 18K white gold applied indexes. Driven by OMEGA’s Co-Axial Calibre 9300, this bold timepiece is finished with a black nylon strap that includes a new ceramic and titanium foldover clasp. The hands are diamond-polished 18K white gold, except for the central seconds hand which is polished, rhodium plated and with a red tip. $12,000

Speedmaster Moonwatch Grey Side Of The Moon OMEGA’s Speedmaster “Grey Side of the Moon” is an innovative addition to the Speedmaster collection. With its grey ceramic case, sand-blasted platinum 950 dial, Moonwatch-style hands, ceramic bezel and tachymetric scale in white SuperLumiNova, this timepiece is not only ready for adventure but is stylish beyond compare. Reminiscent of its legendary predecessors, the Speedmaster “Grey Side of the Moon” has a 60-minute and 12-hour recorder at 3 o’clock and a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. OMEGA’s Co-Axial calibre 9300 can be seen through the bevelled sapphire crystal caseback. $12,000 57


The Petali collection is a hymn to femininity capable of evoking the quintessence of a flower and making it eternal. Each leaf is hand engraved, carefully hand crafted, and held together by a diamond center.

Since 2000, Marco has incorporated the traditions and virtues passed down from his father to create jewelry that embodies the luxury of Italian craftsmanship

and

contemporary

design. Every piece of Marco Bicego jewelry is hand-crafted in Trissino, Italy. Each step of production is done in-house, ensuring the highest quality of jewelry. His uniquely crafted pieces are exceptional enough to make a statement, yet personal enough to wear every day.

A timeless and playful Marco Bicego classic, this Paradise collection is engraved by Italian artisans and

18K yellow gold Petali double flower drop earrings. $6,560 Petali flower collar necklace. $12,940 Paradise iolite and blue topaz necklace. (36") $3,390

composed of hand-picked iolite and blue topaz gemstones. 58


18K yellow gold Petali and diamond stud earrings. $2,810 Lunaria pavĂŠ ring. $2,920 Petali small flower ring with diamonds. $1,870 Lunaria medium ring. $2,050 Petali large flower ring with diamonds. $2,930 Petali flower bracelet with diamonds. $6,290


PERPETUAL EXCELLENCE

The Datejust is a watch for the ages, reflecting its maker’s commitment to longevity, reliability and continuity.

By Christen Fisher When you look in the mirror, what do you see? It seems a

combination of Oystersteel and 18-karat white gold. The

silly question, but our reflection evolves over time and we

first version has a black sunray finish dial and fluted

don’t always stop to think about how we’re changing. Rolex

bezel, while the second combines a white mother-of-

is a brand that perpetually checks its proverbial reflection,

pearl dial with 10 diamond hour markers in 18-karat

recognizing itself as it is, and asking what it can do better

white gold settings and a bezel set with 52 brilliant-

with regard to both its product offerings–such as the

cut diamonds. Thanks to a patented Twinlock screwed-

Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36–and its philanthropy, as seen

down crown, a hermetically screwed-down caseback and

through Rolex.org’s Perpetual Planet campaign. As a result,

a middle case crafted from a solid block of corrosion-

Rolex has pushed beyond the usual understanding of what it

resistant Oystersteel, the Oyster case of the Datejust 36

means to be a luxury company.

is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 meters. As it

First introduced in 1945 at a jubilee celebration of the

has since 1955, the watch’s sapphire crystal is still fitted with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the

company’s 40th anniversary, the Datejust was the first

date. The new versions of the Datejust 36 are equipped

self-winding waterproof chronometer wristwatch to have

with the new, entirely in-house 3235 caliber movement

an automatically changing date window at 3 o’clock on the dial. It was the culmination of every major innovation

and have a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

Rolex had contributed to the modern wristwatch until that

Rolex and its products are built to last. They are, in a word,

time, but Rolex wasn’t satisfied. Ten years later it pushed

perpetual. Having won more than 500 patents throughout

the boundaries of innovation again by introducing a Cyclops

its history, Rolex perpetually pushes the boundaries

magnifier over the date window in the crystal to increase

of innovation, striving for excellence and beyond in its

readability. While the Datejust was first offered only in a

product offerings and through its unwavering promotion

yellow gold Oyster case with matching jubilee bracelet–

and support of the work of pioneering individuals in

so named in honor of that jubilee year–Rolex continued

the fields of environment, exploration, science, health,

to refine the Datejust’s classic aesthetic and superior

cultural heritage and applied technology. Through the

engineering, offering this groundbreaking watch in myriad

Perpetual Planet campaign, Rolex seeks to champion

combinations and sizes for almost 75 years. The Datejust is

those with a singular passion to discover and protect our

a testament to the brand’s core values of longevity, reliability

world so that it lasts for generations to come. When you

and continuity.

look in the mirror, see yourself wearing a Rolex Oyster

This year Rolex debuted two new variations of the Oyster

Perpetual Datejust 36 and know you, too, can push beyond your limits to make a difference in the world.

Perpetual Datejust 36, both in white Rolesor, a proprietary

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The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 is not only built to last, it also has timeless style that will be appreciated for generations to come. 61


Spinelli Kilcollin is based and manufactured in Los Angeles. Launched in 2010 by husband and wife team Yves Spinelli and Dwyer Kilcollin, the brand has had a meteoric rise landing them in prestigious venues and boutiques worldwide.

Q Tell us about your signature rings and what inspired them. A I worked at luxury boutique Maxfield in Los Angeles for twelve years, and I was inspired working with so many great designers and clients. I made jewelry in high school, and one day I thought about a ring that could be worn

“We aim to create

across multiple fingers. I thought that if they were all connected, then they

work that is minimal

could also be worn stacked on one finger. I started wearing it to work, and

and architectural, bold and sophisticated, and tactile. A lot of our pieces can be worn more than one way.” -Yves Spinelli

would be more comfortable. When the ring was finished, I realized that it clients started ordering them off my hand. My wife and I put a small collection together of different variations, and that is how we got started.

Q Do you have a favorite from all your collections? A The Leilani is new this year and it’s my current favorite. The mix of colors and band thicknesses is really signature for us. When everything blends together, the ring almost tricks your eye into an overall complex and warm color tone.

Q Do you have a favorite custom piece? A We make a lot of custom rings, and sometimes a client thinks of something that we haven’t yet made. We recently made a three-link ring in yellow gold and emerald baguettes that was stunning. We’ve worked with emeralds and we’ve worked with diamond baguettes, but this was a departure and my current favorite custom piece.

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Q How does being based in LA influence your designs and work style? A Our office is about three blocks from our jeweler’s, so we’re essentially producing in our backyard. This means that we can be in the shop every day to supervise quality and produce pieces quickly. We’re lucky to have a jewelry district in Los Angeles with so many resources. I prefer it to New York City since there is room to spread out and think and create.

Q You use only conflict-free diamonds and your jewelry is made to order. Is there anything else we should know about your sustainability efforts?

A All

of our rings are handmade. We mix all our own metal

formulations, and the wire is pulled, soldered, and diamonds hand set. Our rings are deceptively simple, which means that they need to be of very exacting quality. Local production is essential for us. We also use recycled gold when we can.

SONNY YG 3 linked rings in 18K yellow gold with diamonds and yellow gold connectors. $2,600 VEGA CCW 4 linked rings in 18K yellow gold and sterling silver with micro pavé cognac, champagne, diamonds, black rhodium and yellow gold connectors. $7,700 SOLARIUM SILVER 3 linked rings in sterling silver and 18K yellow gold with 18K rose gold connectors. $650 LEILANI 5 linked rings in 18K yellow gold and sterling silver with diamonds, black rhodium plating and yellow gold connectors. $12,600 LUNA CHAMPAGNE 4 linked rings in 18K yellow and rose gold with champagne diamonds and gold connectors. $6,400

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STEPPING OUT IN STYLE WITH THE BREITLING PREMIER BREITLING REVIVES THE PREMIER COLLECTION FIRST LAUNCHED IN THE FORTIES WITH A LINEUP OF ELEGANT VINTAGE-INSPIRED TIMEPIECES REINTERPRETED TO SUIT TODAY’S TASTES

By Celine Simon While much of the world was dominated by war efforts during the first half of the 1940s, there was still a desire for elegance and style to break away from daily hardships. Glamorous films like Casablanca, Citizen Kane and The Pride of the Yankees, along with sophisticated stars such as James Stewart, Cary Grant and Humphrey Bogart made their mark during this Golden Age of Hollywood. Sensing the market’s readiness for dressier watches, Willy Breitling, who was then at the helm of the company founded by his grandfather, unveiled the Premier watch collection in 1943. These elegant and stylish timepieces revealed another design side of Breitling as they sat alongside the professional chronographs and militaryspec instruments the brand was already famous for. Predominately crafted in gold and fitted with classic leather straps, the Premier range offered a refined and polished approach to the chronograph wristwatch. Breitling now revives these watches from the 1940s with the new Premier watch collection. Although decidedly vintage-inspired, Breitling revamped the new Premier watches to suit contemporary tastes and expectations with larger cases, appealing colorways and modern movements. Automatic COSC-certified movements power all of the new Premier watches, and the Premier B01 versions boast in-house manufactured calibers. From understated three-handed models to practical day-date editions to sportier chronograph versions, the Premier watches are fashioned for use on land to complement Breitling’s air- and sea-inspired watches. In the words of Willy Breitling, “When a man puts on his Breitling watch, it is the unmistakable stamp of impeccable taste.”

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Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley Centenary Limited Edition 42 mm 18k Red gold case, Brown quilted leather strap. $28,000


Premier Automatic Day & Date 40 42mm stainless steel case, brown leather strap. $4,450

Premier B01 Chronograph 42 42mm stainless steel case, black leather strap. $8,400


Aviator 8 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk 43mm stainless steel case, fabric strap. $5,565 Aviator 8 Automatic 41 Black Steel Curtiss Warhawk 41mm black steel case, fabric strap. $4,230. Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Curtiss Warhawk 43mm stainless steel case, fabric strap. $7,710


FLYING HIGH WITH THE BREITLING AVIATOR 8 CURTISS P-4 0 WARHAWK IN HONOR OF THE ICONIC SHARK-FACED FIGHTER AIRCRAFT OF WWII, BREITLING RELEASES THREE MILITARY-INSPIRED WATCHES

By Celine Simon Referred to as the Golden Age of Flight, the interwar years of the 1920s and 1930s witnessed a dramatic evolution in aviation from low-powered wood and fabric biplanes to high-speed aluminum monoplanes. The Curtiss P-40 Warhawk was an American single-seat fighter-bomber aircraft, first flown in 1938. That very same year, Breitling established the Huit Aviation Department to cater to the timekeeping needs of military and civilian aircrafts. “Huit,” the French word for the number eight, was selected to signify the impressive eight-day power reserve of Breitling dashboard clocks and pilot wristwatches. With World War II looming on the horizon, the British Royal Air Force ordered a large batch of Breitling dashboard chronographs to outfit its fleet of bombers and fighter planes. Across the Atlantic Ocean, in Buffalo, New York, Curtiss Wright was manufacturing P-40 Warhawk planes, which would be used by most Allied powers throughout the war. A group of American pilots nicknamed the Flying Tigers painted shark mouths on the nose of their Warhawks during covert operations in China, which cemented the iconic look of the plane in popular culture for decades to come. Fast-forward to today and Breitling honors the classic aircraft and the brand’s ties to military aviation with three new Aviator 8 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk watches –two chronographs and one three-handed model. From the dial to the watch straps, all three versions are dressed in military green, with pops of red similar in color to the menacing shark painted planes of the Flying Tigers. Of the two Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk chronographs, one runs on an in-house Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 automatic movement, supplying the watch with 70 hours of power reserve. With the classic Curtiss plane as inspiration and drawing on its heritage of military instruments, the new Aviator 8 watches serve to remind us that aviation is still at the heart of Breitling.

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DIVING INTO THE BREITLING SUPEROCEAN CONTINUING A LEGACY THAT SPANS SIX DECADES, THE SUPEROCEAN COLLECTION WELCOMES NEW MODELS THAT HIGHLIGHT BREITLING’S ENTHUSIASM FOR AQUATIC ADVENTURES

By Celine Simon When Captain Jacques Cousteau and engineer Emilie

introduced the Superocean for professional divers in 1957,

Gagnan introduced the Aqua Lung in the mid-

with not one but two models: the Superocean Automatic

20th century, they unlocked access to the

and the manual-winding Superocean Chronograph.

planet’s marine world by allowing divers to

The Superocean watches were rated to a depth of

swim freely underwater for longer periods.

200 meters and featured an intriguing rotating

As a result, scuba diving flourished in

bezel design that could be removed whilst on land

the 1950s, which created the need for

to clean away any debris picked up from the sea.

a specific type of timepiece. Timing is

Over

especially critical for undersea explorers

continued

as they only have a limited amount of

to

enrich

decades, the

Breitling

Superocean

beyond the dive community. This year,

have to return to the surface. Therefore,

Breitling adds a slew of new Superocean models

a handful of innovative watchmakers

to the mix, in a range of sizes, materials and

fulfilled this need by developing purpose-

functionalities. Whether for ladies or men, scuba,

built diving watches, complete with rotating

surf, or swim enthusiasts, or simply fans of high-end

timing bezels, high water-resistance ratings,

sports watches, Breitling sought to create Superocean

and luminous dials. Breitling

following

collection, earning a broader audience

portable oxygen to breathe before they

Although

the

watches for any wrist. The new Superocean watches, was

closely

linked

to aviation during this era, the Swiss watchmaking brand was indeed a pioneer in the

Superocean Automatic 46 Black Steel 46mm black steel case, rubber strap. $4,850

which are all COSC-certified chronometers, run on Breitling Caliber 17 automatic movements with 38 hours of power reserve. Meticulously designed and

diving watch field as well. Capitalizing on its expertise in

expertly engineered, the new Breitling Superocean watches

making professional timekeeping instruments, Breitling

embody the brand’s passion for the sea.

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Superocean Automatic 36, 36mm steel case, rubber strap. $3,475


Nikos Koulis is an acclaimed Greek designer whose innovative creations have gained a loyal celebrity and collector following.

“It’s beautiful to

Q How do you want the wearer to feel when donning pieces from your collection?

be recognized by

A Confident. I want the wearer to see jewelry as parts of

your industry and

Q

peers, but the most significant recognition is my end clients to appraise my design, my craftsmanship, my ethos and feel great when they own my creations.” -Nikos Koulis

herself not as accessories. What was the inspiration for the beautiful new Feelings

collection?

A There wasn’t a specific inspiration, rather it was an idea of revisiting the snake chain with my own aesthetic signature and place it in a contemporary context. I was fascinated by the fluidity and the softness of this chain as a material and I wanted to create cool, sensuous pieces with it.

Q What inspired you to get into the jewelry design business and create your own brand?

A My bond with jewelry lasts forever. My father’s business is in jewelry so I grew up around stones, gold and craftsmen. I always liked doing handwork, so my first creations were with wire in the workshop. There, I was given plenty of stimulation and invaluable lessons in jewelry making. After completing my studies in Philosophy and Literature, I earned my degree in Gemology and Glyptography at GIA and established my brand in 2006. 70


“I want to keep evolving, and create jewelry with soul and originality.� -Nikos Koulis

Feelings Collection Hoops with baguette diamonds and back enamel in 18K yellow gold. $19,365 Necklace with round, tapered, and octagon diamonds, and black enamel, in 18K yellow and white gold. $23,760 Ring with baguette and trillion diamonds and black enamel in 18K yellow gold. $9,385 Double loop ring with baguette diamonds in 18K yellow and white gold. $15,800 Drop earrings with round and tapered diamonds in 18K yellow and white gold. $38,880

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Excalibur Huracรกn, 45mm Rhodium-plated case, bi-material strap. Price upon request


LEGENDARY TIMEPIECES Roger Dubuis continues its legacy of daring watchmaking with its Excalibur Collection By Serge Panczuk Since 1995, Roger Dubuis has been known for bold design,

Then, a skeleton dial which–unlike the hood of some racing

high-end

craftsmanship.

sports cars –shows what a true manufacture’s “engine” is about.

Housed in a state-of-the-art building in Meyrin (a few miles

A Roger Dubuis is not only a watch you wear, it’s also a timepiece

watchmaking

and

world-class

away from Geneva downtown), Roger Dubuis watchmakers

which lets you admire every single detail of its fantastic

have emblazoned their own path, bringing to life some of the

movement. The Excalibur range offers a variety of in-house

boldest watches in the Swiss watchmaking industry.

calibers, from “classic” automatic three hands to some “crazy”

In the world of luxury, the Excalibur collection stands out.

flying or double flying tourbillon. Each watch movement carries

Unconventional, powerful, sharp and highly technical are

the famous Geneva Seal–Poincon de Geneve –which is the quality

the words which come to watch lovers’ minds when they put

seal of the Watchmaking School of Geneva and reserved to the

a Roger Dubuis on their wrists. Roger Dubuis has created

movements made in Geneva. Roger Dubuis is also renowned for

strong connections with the supercar world, which shares

its straps, especially for the Pirelli models. These sporty watches

the same values of innovation, uncompromised design and

are equipped with “racing tires rubber taken only from winning

performance. Over the years, Roger Dubuis has built a strong

Formula 1 Pirelli tires” bands, which reinforce their aggressive

partnership with Lamborghini, and with the world-famous

look. Ultimately, owning a Roger Dubuis is like going for a road

Italian racing tire brand, Pirelli.

trip full of surprises.

All Roger Dubuis collections share the same unmistakable

There’s some kind of magic happening here, in the combination

DNA. First and foremost, a unique case design: bold angles,

of elements which sometimes tend to repel themselves–but work

highly recognizable lugs and sharp bezel, available in precious

extremely well together in the Excalibur range. A Roger Dubuis

metal, carbon, steel or in black DLC titanium.

timepiece is a story by itself. You need to be ready to embrace it and live the magic.

Excalibur Spider Carbon & Gold Double Flying Tourbillon, 47mm black and pink gold skeleton case, bi-material strap. Price upon request

Excalibur Spider Pirelli Skeleton Automatic, 45mm black and green skeleton case, black rubber strap. Price upon request

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Excalibur Pirelli Automatic Skeleton, 45mm black and red case, bi-material strap. Price upon request


MARLI New York is the fine jewelry brand founded in New York City by Maral Artinian. The MARLI mission is to create timeless, modern and distinctive jewelry for women who aren’t afraid to set their own codes and go beyond the obvious cues of status.

Q Did you always know you wanted to design your own brand of jewelry? A Growing up in a passionate jewelry family, I lived and breathed revolutionary designs since I was a child. I fell in love with the attention to detail and thoughtful techniques I learned in my family’s workshops. Expression through jewelry became an outlet for me. Naturally, I wanted to lead my own legacy.

Having a MARLI Moment stands for feeling good, feeling free and allowing the pieces to reflect your

Q Tell us about your craftsmanship. A Beauty through innovation is our motto. Artisanal, lasting quality and breathtaking precision: this is our craftsmanship. From concept to creation, we work exclusively in-house to ensure each piece is expertly executed through ultramodern modus operandi that not only innovates the creation process but also revolutionizes the jewelry itself, for a state of the art experience.

Q The MARLI brand has a strong focus on modernity. What does being a “modern woman” mean to you?

ever-evolving yet

A A modern woman creates her own platform to speak up and sets her own

timeless style.

standards. Being a modern woman is deeply rooted in every MARLI piece. My definition of modernity means not being afraid to go beyond the status quo when it comes to self-expression and never compromising on personal beliefs.

Q How do you want women to feel when they put on your jewelry? A Women who choose to wear MARLI are already confident and turn heads as they saunter down the street in all their glory. So, when women wear my collections, MARLI serves as a stylish medium to enhance their already-there personal flair with a show-stopping edge. Having a MARLI Moment stands for feeling good, feeling free and allowing the pieces to reflect your ever-evolving yet timeless style. 74


Inspired by Cleopatra, the original powerful independent woman, Cleo by Marli evokes her heritage, elegance and courage, creating a rare sophistication.

Cleo Rev Gold Pendant in chalcedony and diamonds in 18K rose gold. $6,700 Cleo Rev Gold Bracelet with chalcedony and diamonds in 18K rose gold. $10,600 Cleo Rev Gold Earrings with chalcedony and diamonds in 18K rose gold. $11,000 Cleo Rev Diamond Bracelet with pink opal and diamonds in 18K rose gold. $28,000 Cleo Statement Ring with pink opal in 18k rose gold. $10,000

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MONACO GULF SPECIAL EDITION Commemorating the legacy of Gulf Racing TAG Heuer and Gulf: a historical partnership for a mythic timepiece that changed the face of the watchmaking industry. In 1969, the TAG Heuer Monaco and its square case– equipped with the first in the world automatic chronograph, the Calibre 11–is a genuine revolution, regarding both technique and aesthetics. A watch passed into posterity thanks to the Le Mans movie in which Steve McQueen, driving his Porsche 917 bearing the Gulf colors, wears a TAG Heuer Monaco 1133B Calibre 11 on his wrist. Revisited for this special edition, its iconic blue sunray dial features the emblematic blue and orange Gulf racing stripes. A calfskin perforated blue strap with orange stitching completes the very racing look of the watch inspired by the King of Cool and his famous blue and orange sports car. “It’s a real privilege to forge links with Gulf and its history in automotive sport that includes the Porsche 917K, Steve McQueen, the Le Mans 24-Hour race and the Monaco watch,” said Jean-Claude Biver, former CEO of TAG Heuer and chairman of the Watch Division of LVMH Group. “It’s a prestigious and emotional partnership. I know of few other brands that could share as many memories of pit stops and which have a relationship as strong and authentic. We share the same passion, and this promises good things for the future.” Drawing from the origins of the TAG Heuer Monaco, the special TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf edition celebrates the rich inheritance of the watchmaking brand with motor racing. A way to perpetuate a legendary partnership through a timepiece, as racy as it is everlasting.

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TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11, 39mm stainless steel case, blue calf skin strap. $5,900


FORM MEETS FUNCTION An artisanal watch company sets out to create timepieces that are both beautiful and practical. In a small, unassuming valley nestled between the forests and hills of southeast Germany lies Glashütte, the country’s preeminent watchmaking town. This is where NOMOS Glashütte, one of the few owner-operated watchmaking companies in the world, creates its mechanical timepieces. NOMOS watchmakers count among the very best in their field–what they have mastered is still a challenge for their colleagues elsewhere. That is because watches have been crafted in Glashütte for many generations–for over 170 years, to be precise. NOMOS Glashütte creates and produces watches in accordance with the principles of the Deutscher Werkbund, the precursor to the Bauhaus movement. The philosophy behind this movement is to combine outstanding craftsmanship with the renowned prowess of German engineering along with state-of-the-art technology, which is the foundation for Tangente Sport neomatik 42 Date 42mm stainless steel case and bracelet. $4,980

the superior quality of its timepieces. The designers from NOMOS’ in-house creative agency in Berlin draw inspiration from something as commonplace as a spoon or door hook to a vintage car to create their watch collections. The characteristics shared by all NOMOS watches include top-quality materials, refined dials, elegant and usually slender hands, narrow bezels and an exceptionally clear form. With each timepiece’s minimalist design and purposeful details, NOMOS watches are considered classic staples for any watch enthusiast. 78


Tangente neomatik 41 Update, 41mm stainless steel case, black leather strap. $4,100 Tangente neomatik 41 Update Ruthenium, 41mm stainless steel case, black leather strap. $4,100

Club Sport neomatik 42 Date Black 42mm stainless steel case and strap. $4,060


HYDROCONQUEST

A COLORFUL PERFORMANCE IN THE DIVING WORLD Elegance, tradition and performance form Longines DNA. Relying on a long tradition of fine watchmaking, the Swiss company has been striving since its creation for technical and esthetical excellence and creating exceptional watches along the way.

Dive-style HydroConquest 41mm stainless steel case and bracelet. $1,275

An iconic representation of the sports watches created by Longines, the HydroConquest collection meets the expectations of those who are drawn to the open sea while remaining true to the elegance of the Swiss watchmaker. Preserving the traditional style of diving watches, the HydroConquest diving watch is inspired by the unique requirements from the world of aquatic sports. The distinctive characteristics of this collection include water-resistance to 300 meters, a unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown and case back, crown protection and a double security-folding clasp with integrated diving extension. Founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier, the famous Swiss watch brand Longines can boast a long tradition characterized by elegance and performance of its products. Those values are perfectly represented by The Longines Sport Collection. The HydroConquest line is dedicated to men and women looking for high performance timepieces that combine technical innovation and elegance. Longines now extends this line with new models in bright colors. 80


Combining the technical excellence and traditional elegance of the brand, Longines offers a new all-black ceramic version of the HydroConquest timepiece. Today, the brand goes even further in using this exclusive material with a model entirely made from black ceramic whose dial proudly displays its chemical composition: ZrO2. This highly technical and scratchresistant material is perfectly suited to the sporty look of the new HydroConquest watch. Its boldness is further heightened by the different finishes of each of its components: a matte dial, a polished case, a round satin bezel and a back blending a circular satin and matte finish.

All Black Ceramic HydroConquest 42mm ceramic case, black rubber strap. $3,725

The USA Exclusive HydroConquest, designed to pay homage to the United States, features a polished, ultra-scratch-resistant ceramic insert on its rotating unidirectional bezel. The streamlined dial displays the initials “USA” in the bottom right corner of the display, and a luminous numeral “50” in the upper left corner of the bezel, which pays further tribute to the 50 states. Indexes and hands also are applied with Super-LumiNova®. An American flag motif is engraved in the screw-down case back. The additional rubber NATO strap allows for two unique looks for this timepiece. USA Exclusive HydroConquest 41mm steel case and bracelet. $1,800

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A COLLECTOR’S TAKE By Art Bodin The bountiful perspectives of the collector... We honor the craftsmanship, marvel at the beauty, treasure the history, are astounded by function and allured by rarity. What cannot be overlooked is the passion, the emotion. The recollection of when the timepiece entered our lives and how it may have marked a special occasion. Our desire to pass down the piece when our journey with it has been fulfilled. When asked to write an article relating to my vision on timepiece collecting, I was instantly in tune with the reality that my viewpoint would only contribute a single narrative. I wished to better understand the varying perspectives, values, preferences, experiences and market predictions of other collectors. These are my companions in the adoration and wonderment of this fine art.

WHAT TIMEPIECE INSPIRED YOU TO START COLLECTING? When I was in elementary school I found a Timex watch at the train station in my hometown. My mom had me take it to the police station’s lost and found. A month later they called and said I could come pick it up because it went unclaimed. That little watch changed me forever and started a lifelong obsession.

WHAT CHARACTERISTICS OR CRITERIA GUIDE YOUR COLLECTION? I collect based on a feeling I get in my gut, not based on what is popular or trendy. I have a deep passion for Patek. For me they will always be the best. I am also very interested in independent watch makers. Rexhep Rexhepi and his brand Akrivia are creating mind-blowing watches. Kudoke from Germany has released a gorgeous time-only watch called the Kudoke 1, which everyone should do their best to add to their collection. Basically, I look for elegance, simplicity, innovation and a respect for tradition in the watches I collect.

WHAT ARE YOUR THREE FAVORITE PIECES IN YOUR COLLECTION?

WES LANG

That is such a hard question to answer, as every day my mind changes. Somedays the only thing I want to wear is a

Wes is an LA based artist and contributor to GQ Magazine.

time-only Submariner. The next day a Grand Complication from Patek absolutely needs to be on my wrist. I keep my

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collection diverse so there is no absolute favorite. It all boils

people interested in watches these days. When I started

down to the mood I am in when I wake up.

collecting, no one in my group of friends cared about them.

WHAT WAS THE LAST TIMEPIECE ADDED TO YOUR COLLECTION?

“It’s a waste of money, I can just use my phone" was the most common reaction when I talked about watches. Now,

It is a really incredible example of a 1991 Zenith Daytona, yellow gold, champagne dial with an upside down 6. Something about that upside down 6 makes me so happy. That is a Daytona you can still find and not pay an insane price for.

everyone I know is into collecting in some way, shape or form. Most importantly, people should buy what speaks to them, not what is trendy or selling way over retail in secondary market.

WHAT IS THE NEXT PIECE YOU WANT TO ADD TO YOUR COLLECTION? I recently attended a Grand Seiko and Hodinkee event in Los Angeles and I have not been able to stop thinking about their latest Elegance collection release SBGK009. It has their newest manual winding movement (Caliber 9S63), a gorgeous new full metal bracelet with a threefold clasp and a power reserve on the dial. I will definitely be getting this watch.

DO ALL OF THE WATCHES YOU OWN GET WRIST TIME? Yes. It is important to take them out and give them a chance to do what they do.

WHAT IS YOUR GRAIL TIMEPIECE? The Patek 5950a on full bracelet and white dial. That watch is as close to perfect as I have ever seen. It’s a big reach to get one, but why not dream big?

WHAT DO YOU ENVISION AS THE FUTURE OF COLLECTING, AND WHAT TYPE OF TIMEPIECES DO YOU THINK WILL THRIVE? That is next to impossible to predict. Right now, everyone is after steel Rolex and Patek. It would be nice to see it move toward Grand Seiko SBGK009

more dress watches and Grand Complications. The Patek 3970 deserves way more attention. Grand Seiko is killing it and is poised to take a bigger stake in the market. I love seeing so many

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WHAT CHARACTERISTICS OR CRITERIA GUIDE YOUR COLLECTION? Love at first sight, and love at second sight. A watch is more than an object. It must tell me a story. Where I got it, whom I bought it from, what emotion it brought me. Even though I do love watches, I am not a “Tourbillon” or “Grande Complication” guy. A watch needs to remain a watch–simple, solid, real. And to some extent, affordable. Regarding brands or models, I saw the moon landing with my dad when I was 5. He told me “Look, son, this is history!” So, I’m a Speedy fan! But I also love– and collect–vintage Seiko. I have a huge respect for Grand Seiko too. My first Salon de la Haute Horlogerie de Geneve (SIHH) was as an IWC guest. The brand is always on my radar, both its past models (the 3705 is one grail watch for me) and current Pilot collection.

WHAT ARE YOUR THREE FAVORITE PIECES IN YOUR COLLECTION?

Emilien - IG @chameleonspictures

SERGE PANCZUK

My first answer would be, the one I do not have yet! Collecting watches is more about the hunt than the prey.

Serge is a citizen of France and Switzerland, living in Orange County. He is a contributor to many international

My second response is probably, “How could you choose

magazines and watch blogs.

amongst all your children the one you prefer?” I cannot.

WHAT TIMEPIECE INSPIRED YOU TO START COLLECTING?

My most serious answer will be a few watches I’ll never let

My first “real” watch was a Certina analog/digital quartz

• The Ebel Voyager my wife gave me many years ago. I travel

watch bought in Geneva. I still have it, and I wear it on a

the world every other week, and this watch has been with

NATO strap.

me everywhere. It has never been serviced and it works.

go of:

I keep collecting Ebel Voyager, which I consider the best

Nevertheless, the one that started my collecting was the

travel watch ever made.

Breitling Chronomat. When I saw its picture in a magazine, I loved it, but couldn’t afford it at that time. I probably

• The Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy. I have the number

tried on the Chronomat a hundred times before finally

1432, which was my patient number during cancer

getting one. I enjoyed everything about this watch, from its

treatment a few years ago. This is to remind me about

design to its “pilot storytelling,” and the various straps you

what’s important in life.

could put on it to change its look. Because, beyond watches,

• An unknown brand watch that belonged to my father, and was

I love straps!

also worn by my mother. A watchmaker from my home city in

I eventually got a grey and blue sub dials Chronomat with

France spent months restoring the watch to bring it to life.

gold accents.

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WHAT DO YOU ENVISION AS THE FUTURE OF COLLECTING, AND WHAT TYPE OF TIMEPIECES DO YOU THINK WILL THRIVE?

WHAT WAS THE LAST PIECE ADDED TO YOUR COLLECTION? I’’m still waiting for the Omega Speedmaster 50th Anniversary which should land soon (with the number 1432). I’m also expecting

People are getting more and more educated

the Breitling 806 reissue, which is one of

and informed about watches. So the future is

the best watches presented this year

about going out of the main path, to find the

at Baselworld. And I have few vintage

rare, and unusual. Start looking at the ’80s,

Seiko coming from Australia, including

when watches were not yet a collectible item.

a quartz Bishop which went through an

Regarding the next stars, I’d bet on four

extensive maintenance process.

categories: A period: As per my previous comment, the

WHAT IS THE NEXT PIECE YOU WANT TO ADD TO YOUR COLLECTION?

’80s/’90s are still a territory to explore. We consider that watches fall into the vintage category after

Ideally, my dream would be to get the Omega

minimum 25 years. So start looking at some gems

Speedmaster Moonshine Gold Apollo 11. And last

from the late eighties and nineties. Spot watches worn

time I was in Japan, I was close to buying an IWC Bund Ocean 2000, one of the best diver’s watches

Breitling Navitimer Ref 806

ever made.

in movies or TV shows from that time. A category: I believe there’s something to do with first generation of quartz watches. Their prices are rising, especially the first Seiko. Quartz might be the next big thing.

DO ALL THE PIECES IN YOUR COLLECTION GET WRIST TIME?

These first gen watches had calibers that were amazing, combining mechanical and quartz technology.

Yes, I hope so, as wearing a watch is showing respect to it.

A feature: Inside is better than outside. So don’t look at the

I can change watches two or three times a day. I always

watch, but think movements. Brands can replicate designs

travel with enough watches to be able to wear a different one

from the past, but vintage movements are much more

every day. And I try to choose these pieces based on where I'll

difficult. Omega is relaunching the 321, and it’s a sign. So

go and what I’ll do.

look for movements especially Lemania 5100, Seiko 6139,

WHAT IS YOUR GRAIL TIMEPIECE?

Valjoux 72 or Zenith Primero first generation.

In the modern watches category, I’d love to get a Singer

A design: The ugly watches! Yes! Think about it–most of the

Reimagined Track 1 Geneva Edition. It’s a crazy watch,

most successful watches today were big commercial failures.

both inside and outside. And I love the new brands that

The Patek 5711 was almost refused by the distributors

are trying to challenge the mainstream players. Another

because it was too “ugly.” The Rolex Daytona “Newman dial”

modern grail timepiece would be a Richard Mille. Huge

was never a big hit, and for years they were not sold and

respect for what he has done. In the vintage category, the

sent back to Rolex. More recently, the Speedy Tintin with its

Omega Speedmaster “Holy Grail” for sure. It’s the reference

weird red/white dial left collectors skeptical at best. And it’s

376.0822. It’s a rare Speedy and it is equipped with the

sold today for two or three times its price.

legendary Lemania 5100 caliber.

So, don’t look for the current sexy pieces, they are plenty of them on the market. Look for the weirdos and the unloved. As taste changes, they might shine at some point in the future!

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WHAT ARE YOUR THREE FAVORITE PIECES IN YOUR COLLECTION? This is a tough question. It’s like picking your favorite children (cliché,

MIKE RANKIN

Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535

I know, I know). If I had to choose, I would say: i. Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535. I don’t know why

Mike is an avid watch enthusiast who prefers to collect truly

people aren’t flocking to this piece. I suspect it’s because

luxurious and eclectic watches. He lives in Colorado Springs, CO.

of the closed case back and the lack of movement finishing. But each one is different because of the

WHAT TIMEPIECE INSPIRED YOU TO START COLLECTING?

meteorite that’s used for the moon. ii. Royal Oak Chronograph in rose gold on full bracelet

I have two. The first is the Rolex President. I would see this piece

as a kid and it had the perfect balance. The day at the top and

with blue dial.

iii. Ulysse Nardin Quadrato Dual Time Perpetual Calendar.

date at 3 with the magnifier over it seemed like a special watch.

iv. Blancpain Leman GMT alarm. I would have to add this

The second is the Ulysse Nardin Quadrato Dual Time Perpetual

one. The alarm feature is unnecessary but so damn cool.

Calendar. Perpetual calendars are usually hard to set, but you can

WHAT WAS THE LAST PIECE ADDED TO YOUR COLLECTION?

set it forward and backward when travelling and my mind was blown. Plus, whenever I wear it people have no idea what it is and

Rolex Daytona Ceramic.

it becomes a conversation starter.

WHAT IS THE NEXT PIECE YOU WISH TO ADD TO YOUR COLLECTION?

WHAT CHARACTERISTICS OR CRITERIA GUIDE YOUR COLLECTION?

I have a few. Rolex Daytona 116508 with green dial; FP

I am mostly driven by value. With stainless pieces costing as much

Journe Chronomètre à Résonance; Nautilus 5711R and

as precious metal pieces I can get higher end precious metals for

5980R both on full bracelets; MB&F.

less than steel. I buy what I like and I love complications. I also typically buy pieces no one likes. I get this weird compliment a lot: “I typically don’t like (insert brand) especially in solid gold, but you really pull that off.”

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DO ALL OF THE PIECES IN YOUR COLLECTION GET WRIST TIME? I’m such a nerd about making sure everything gets wrist time. I have a seasonal rotation (leather in winter and bracelets and rubber in the spring and summer) as well as an activity rotation (i.e. going to the beach, something on a rubber strap like a yacht master 40).

PAUL WHITE

WHAT IS YOUR GRAIL TIMEPIECE?  My end-game piece would be something I collaborated to make.

Paul spent nearly three decades in the watch industry. He and

It would have a perpetual calendar, a chronograph, a GMT (or

his wife Carolyn enjoy retirement in Phoenix, AZ.

world time) and a minute repeater. All of that in one watch is ridiculous, I know, but I am dreaming here.

WHAT TIMEPIECE INSPIRED YOU TO START COLLECTING?

AS A COLLECTOR WHAT BRAND(S) DO YOU THINK ARE OVERLOOKED?

In 1967 I was given a Tudor Prince Oyster Date, black dial, Oyster Bracelet 34mm for my high school graduation. It was an enormous

From a pre-owned standpoint I think Jaeger-LeCoultre is a

surprise and I wear and cherish it yet today. Of course I had read my

great value prop. They have very complicated movements that

way through Ian Fleming and knew Mr. Bond wore a Rolex. Even

were are used by top houses (like Patek, Audemars Piguet,

though this was “just a Tudor” on the case back it said “Original

etc.). Secondly, I think Zenith is making huge strides. This is

Oyster Case Rolex Geneva.” If that was good enough for 007 then

actually my favorite brand. Charles Vermot was a rebel hiding all of the watchmaking equipment in the attic.

that was fine with me! Clearly Rolex has always had the brilliant

WHAT DO YOU ENVISION AS THE FUTURE OF COLLECTING AND WHAT TYPE OF TIMEPIECES DO YOU THINK WILL THRIVE?

visceral appeal as the watch of aspiration and achievement.

strategy of high production/terrific quality and an absolutely

WHAT CHARACTERISTICS OR CRITERIA GUIDE YOUR COLLECTION?

I am starting to look more toward independents. Two years ago,

I’ve owned a couple score watches in my collecting history and it’s

I went to Basel and hung out in the independent watchmaker

clear as day that my main criterion is aesthetic. I’ve owned Rolex,

hall and was blown away by what they were doing.

Patek, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, JLC, Panerai, Omega, TAG Heuer and many, many more. You can tell me that the watch will make breakfast for me and start my car in the morning but if I don’t react to the look then I’m not going to own it. I have purchased watches “intellectually” because I thought that as an industry professional and a small time collector that I should own one. But those choices

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never stayed around very long. Of course the watch needs to be

been able to part with some watches simply because they

in my financial comfort range and must assuredly be of quality.

do not get worn.

But if it doesn’t move me emotionally…then no sale.

WHAT IS YOUR GRAIL TIMEPIECE?

WHAT ARE YOUR THREE FAVORITE PIECES IN YOUR COLLECTION?

Hard to say, because I have been so fortunate to own so many

Deciding which are the three favorite pieces in my collection is a

in their time. If pressed I suppose I would love to have one

terribly difficult choice because all of them have a special place

more Rolex Professional series in my group and of all those

in my heart and mind. As a clothes horse I always coordinated

available, I believe the Yacht-Master Grey or Blue dial in steel

my watch to my suits and casual wear. Now that I’m retired

would be at the top of the list. That would suit my lifestyle

and don’t dress formally much anymore the watch of the day

now. Who knows? I might even be able to make it happen

is often selected more on the basis of mood. I’m not a pilot,

without a matrimonial attorney.

watches and all of them have satisfied a want or aspiration

a diver, a race car driver or any of the other professions

WHAT DO YOU ENVISION AS THE FUTURE OF COLLECTING, AND WHAT TYPE OF TIMEPIECES DO YOU THINK WILL THRIVE?

employed by the manufacturers to reach the emotional cortex of the buyer. But I can wear a watch to feel like I’m doing one of those activities. Since so many are favorites I’ll answer the question this way; the

The brands that succeed will continue to tell a

three that I will not part with are: Rolex (GMT

story and offer products that appeal to the

II ceramic bezel, black dial, Explorer II white

eyes, the wallet and the intellect. I was an

dial 42 mm, original Tudor); any of my three

industry professional for 30 years, buying,

JLC Reversos (Shadow Classic size; Rose Gold

selling, managing, merchandising, training

’Or Deco Grand Taille and Grande Reverso

salespeople and writing about some of the

Duo); TAG Heuer Monaco Steve McQueen

very greatest brands in the world. Several

with bracelet and strap.

things concern me. In the 1990s and 2000s

WHAT WAS THE LAST PIECE ADDED TO YOUR COLLECTION?

luxury was certainly growing because it

My last addition was the Oris Diver 65

the age of the Patek Philippe buyer in my

was democratic. I specifically recall when

Heritage bicolor, bronze and steel. This is an

store dropped to a man in his 30s as so many

intriguing brand with great designs, nice quality

young men were achieving financial success. I’m

and fabulous price points. This watch is unlike

concerned now that with the exception of brands

anything I own, original and distinctive.

WHAT IS THE NEXT PIECE YOU WANT TO ADD TO YOUR COLLECTION?

like JLC that some high end luxury brands are not so attainable anymore. I get it; you just don’t get to buy TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11

My next addition is governed by a few factors: available

an Hermes bag because you have money and want one. Luxury brands want to maintain an exclusive niche. Let’s

face it, no brand will ever have the hat trick of desire, high

budget in retirement; a spouse who pays a bit more attention

production and quality that Rolex has achieved nor will the

to my collection now than when I was employed; and most

giant be threatened or toppled. But there are some brands

critically what I really “need” or want at this point in my life.

showing some good value and designs, like Grand Seiko,

I’m very intrigued with Grand Seiko, and of course anything

Oris, Bremont, TAG Heuer (especially at the Carrera and

from JLC, always my favorite high-end brand.

Monaco end of things.) Many brands have good new opening price points such as Breitling and IWC allowing a client to

DO ALL THE PIECES IN YOUR COLLECTION GET WRIST TIME?

get introduced at a moderate level. Of course everyone wants

I tried to make sure all the kids get fed but there are not

to know what the impact of smart watches will continue to

enough hours, days, weeks or months to get it done. I have

be but as a client once said to me “A smart watch tells time; a wristwatch tells a story.”

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TWINNING WITH PINEL ET PINEL Unique watch winders designed after your favorite luxury watches By Celine Simon Founded two decades ago in Paris, France,

house and wind your favorite timepiece in a case

Pinel et Pinel is the brainchild of designer

that shares its design codes. Whether fashioned

Fred Pinel. Known for his offbeat aesthetic and

after your preferred chronograph, dive watch,

idiosyncratic approach to making handcrafted

or dual-time timepiece, the TWIN watch winder

leather goods and high-end bespoke trunks,

collection is available in a multitude of colorways

Fred Pinel relishes in offering a unique voice

and styles.

within the luxury space.

The TWIN watch winder rotates at a speed of 800

From custom floor-to-ceiling cabinets fitted

turns in each direction for a total 1,600 rounds per

with multiple watch winders to elegant

day–a sequence recommended by most major watch

traveling watch boxes, Pinel et Pinel has

brands. Yet, you can customize the rotation cycle via

turned its attention to discerning watch enthusiasts in recent

the SwissKubik smartphone app, which connects to the winder

years with an impressive collection of high-end timepiece

via Bluetooth.

storage solutions.

Each Pinel et Pinel TWIN watch winder is made-to-order at the

The newest concept to join Pinel et Pinel’s watch-dedicated

company’s ateliers, located in the 20th Arrondissement of Paris.

collection is the range of TWIN watch winders, which draw

From initial sketch to final execution, these winders can take

inspiration from some of the most famous and beloved luxury

up to 1,300 hours of work. With the TWIN winder, your prized

watch models today. With the TWIN watch winders, you can now

watch has now met its match.

GMT.TWIN, red calf leather, bi-colored blue and red aluminum bezel. $1,825. SUB.TWIN, green calf leather, green aluminum bezel. $1,825 GMT.TWIN, blue calf leather, bi-colored black and blue aluminum bezel, $1,825.

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REGAL ROMANCE Roberto Coin Venetian Princess diamond and black jade ring, $7,000, and earring $11,200. Diamond Princess Flower bangle $37,800. Diamond Princess Flower bangle $4,700. Diamond Princess bangle $3,700. Venetian Princess bangle $22,500. Princess Flower bangle $4,700. Diamond Princess bangle $18,500. All in 18K rose gold with diamonds. Symphony bangle with diamonds in 18K yellow gold, $7,600, and white gold, $4,600.


DARE TO DREAM

Exude the extraordinary in stunning diamonds and bold gold.


HEAD IN THE CLOUDS Marli Cleo Collection. Rev earrings, with blue chalcedony and diamonds $7,900. Long chain pendant, in blue chalcedony and diamonds $6,700. Ring with blue chalcedony and diamonds $3,800. Color bangle, in blue chalcedony and diamonds $11,100. Color bangle, in black onyx and diamonds $11,100. Statement bangle in tanzanite and diamonds $28,000. All in 18K rose or white gold.

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TULLE COOL FOR SCHOOL Nikos Koulis Feelings Collection. Figure eight earrings with diamonds $21,480. Lariat with diamonds, diamond pavĂŠ and black enamel $20,435. Double loop ring with diamonds $15,800. Ring with diamonds and black enamel $9,385. Bracelet with diamonds and diamond pavĂŠ $61,200. Bracelet with diamonds and black enamel $11,525. All in 18K yellow and white gold.


SHINE ON Marco Bicego Lucia link drop earrings with diamonds $3,700. Lucia medium link chain necklace with diamonds $12,550. Lucia long small link chain necklace $15,000. Lucia link ring with diamonds $5,600. Lucia hugging ring with diamonds $5,090. Lucia double dome ring with diamonds $4,260. Lunaria cuff $8,480. All in 18K yellow gold. Creative EDWIN SANTA Hair and Makeup FADY FLOREZ Jewelry JENNIFER FERKENHOFF Dresses by FADY FLOREZ Model FERNANDA KINDER AT NEXT MANAGEMENT

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BELLE OF THE BALL Roberto Coin Palazzo Ducale satin two-drop earrings $2,500. Diamond Princess tassel necklace $8,500. Venetian Princess ring $4,950. Palazzo Ducale ring $1,470. Symphony diamond princess ring $2,500. Diamond Princess Flower bracelet $37,800. Symphony bangle $4,600. Diamond Princess bangle $13,500. Symphony bangle $7,600. Princess bangle $5,900. All in 18K yellow and white gold with diamonds.

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“What inspires me most today is the ability to create jewelry that will not only be appreciated but worn with joy,” designer Maria Canale shares. The singular petal in her iconic subtlety of shape and silhouette takes on classic flower motifs but adds a fresher and freer persona. “I designed the Petal Collection for the woman who wants her jewelry to be her signature, to move effortlessly with her day and night. Ease is the secret to true elegance!”

Large flower diamond earrings in 18K yellow gold, 14.14 carats. $48,000 Aster single diamond petal earring in 18K yellow gold, 0.66 carats. $7,885 Single petal earring with rose cut diamonds in 18K yellow gold, 0.48 carats. $4,565

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Inspired by her adoption journey, MY STORY designer Jackie Cohen created a simple band with her daughter’s birthstone. She found the ring sparked conversation wherever she went. “My collections are designed for women to express themselves with their own stories and milestones in life” explains Jackie. “It’s fun, sentimental jewelry that is meant to be mixed, matched and layered and can be personalized.” The Cheryl locket with turquioise in 14K yellow gold on 18" Rolo chain. $2,075 The Mimi rainbow heart pendant in 14K yellow gold. $1,700 The Aurora rainbow necklace featuring gemstone baguettes and diamonds in 14K yellow gold. $2,800

Twisthoops in 18K white gold with diamonds 1.50 carats. $3,995 Crossover bangle in 18K rose and white gold with diamonds 1.50 carats. $5,695 Crossover bangle in 18K yellow gold with diamonds .75 carats. $4,895

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Timeless collection White South Sea Pearl earrings, $5,525, ring $3,475 and pendant, $3,980 in 18K white gold with diamonds Black South Sea Pearl necklace, $3,550, and ring, $2,550, in 18K white gold with diamonds

Born and raised near Venice, Italy, surrounded by Andre Palladio’s beautiful examples of architecture, Alessandra Donà creates pearl jewelry with timeless charm and the perfect balance of tradition and vision. “I think of women who love the elegance of pearls but still want that modern, sexy and edgy look. It appeals to both younger and older women who want new and innovative designs."

Multi-color gemstone floral ring $1,750, pendant necklace, $1,695 and earrings, $2850, in 14K white gold with amethyst, blue topaz and diamonds.

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“I try to speak to a woman’s personal sense

of

style,

independence

and

celebration of femininity,” explains Penny Preville. “I want women to connect with the jewelry in a meaningful way. From the very beginning of my career, I’ve been attuned to coordinating my jewelry designs to women’s clothing fashions, from dress-up to casual wear. My design vision has been influenced by the world around me –from nature to architecture, from my travels to family life. Above all, I have a very personal attachment to my customers Large oval starburst pendant in 18K white gold with pavé border on 20" plain chain, 1.34 carats. $6,140. Moderne Deco earrings in 18K white gold with baguettes and pear cut diamonds, 2.02 carats. $9,585. Moderne deco linear earrings in 18K white gold with round brilliantcut diamonds and baguettes, 2.82 carats. $12,325.

and I’m always trying to design for their needs.”

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Between creativity and the future, Pesavento tells a new tale of luxury that goes beyond jewelry’s previous limits to mold precious material – gold, silver and gemstones–into original shapes and extraordinary volumes. Pesavento creates jewelry with strong, vibrant and instinctive charm. Each piece is an object of poetry that enchants and seduces at first sight. Since 1992, Pesavento has been a point of reference in precious material design, a distinctive name in Italian style renowned throughout the world by those capable of seeing beauty in form and value in detail. Chiara Carli and Marino Pesavento are the brand’s twin soul, the two poles of attraction in a single impassioned vision that has accompanied jewelry culture to the interpretation of today. Each and every Pesavento jewel is entirely “made in Italy” and the fruit of research that combines the classic workings of the Italian goldsmith’s tradition with stylistic innovation and technological experimentation.

Champagne Diamanti 5-Station necklace $1,290. Square Champagne Diamanti necklace. $1,620 Champagne Jolie Diamanti ring $880-$1,065 (depending on size). Storm Gray Jolie Diamanti ring. $900-$1,080 Square Champagne Diamanti stud earrings. $1,025

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The dinh van woman is confident, independent, and doesn’t concern herself with passing trends. Inspired by the radical changes in 1960s French society

The Menottes dinh van collection

and a desire to break the unspoken rules of jewelry design,

(“handcuffs” in French) is so named

the dinh van maison opened its doors in 1965. After working with Cartier for ten years, designer Jean Dinh Van set out to create modern, unconventional designer jewelry for everyday

because of the clever clasp design. It was created in 1976 and has revolutionised French jewelry ever since.

wear. Immediately dinh van made its mark by being the first to use minimalism in jewelry design, with a focus on purity of form that remains timeless and desirable today. Dinh van’s nonconformist philosophy is beautifully apparent in each piece. Where clasps are typically hidden, dinh van accentuates them. In a world of circular rings, dinh van launched a collection of square designs. Everyday objects are turned into stunning central motifs, as in the case of the iconic Menottes dinh van collection. Le Cube diamant collection represents the duality of spirituality and stability. It gracefully balances empty and full spaces as well as circular and square geometry. Gorgeous alone or in a stack, the Serrure collection (meaning “lock” in French) is elegant yet functional. This collection represents understated luxury at its finest.

Menottes dinh van R15 chain necklace in 18K yellow gold. $6,230 Le Cube diamant rings in 18K rose and white gold. $2,980 Serrure diamond pavé bracelet in 18K white gold. $2,820

101


Travel Spotlight: Denver

THE ROCKIES’ METROPOLIS

Think you know the city? We guarantee there’s still plenty for you to discover. Here’s the Denver you’ve been missing. By Daliah Singer

5 EATERIES—AND THEIR SECRETS

You’ll enjoy these stellar Denver-area restaurants even more if you’re in the know.

ANNETTE: You know you’re in for a

SAFTA:

Las

Vegas’ all-you-can-eat

FRASCA FOOD AND WINE: The James

special meal whenever you visit this

buffets have nothing on Safta’s Sunday

Beard Award-winning eatery’s Monday

spot inside the Stanley Marketplace in

spreads. The weekly brunch (10 a.m. to

Night Wine Dinners are something of an

Aurora: Chef-owner Caroline Glover was

2:30 p.m.) takes over the open kitchen’s

open secret these days, but that doesn’t

named one of the country’s 10 best new

counter with an abundant selection

make them any less exceptional. On the

chefs by Food & Wine earlier this year.

of Israeli eats: smoked and cured fish,

week’s first workday, master sommelier

To make your night out extra special,

shakshouka, breakfast hummus, wood-

Bobby Stuckey hosts a winemaker whose

take some friends and order a dish the

fired breads and bagels, Middle Eastern

creations– often renowned labels or hard-

other diners don’t know about. The

pastries, and even a whole smoked lamb

to-find vintages–are paired with a four-

whole fried rabbit isn’t on the menu and

shoulder. To wash it all down, there’s a

course, prix fixe menu. Reservations are

must be requested at least 24 hours in

roving drink cart that delivers bottles

encouraged. (Psssst!–look out for the

advance. The meat comes from Salida

of champagne or your choice of spritz

team’s newest project, a European-style

and is accompanied by house rolls and

cocktails straight to your table. Or, ask

wine bar named Sunday Vinyl, to open

seasonal sides, and it’s substantial

for a Bubbe, a turmeric-ginger brew made

before the end of the year at Denver Union

enough to share with three or four fellow

specifically for Safta by New Belgium

Station.) frascafoodandwine.com

foodies. annettescratchtotable.com

Brewing Company. (Stop by Reunion Bread Co. on your way out of the market hall to pick up a loaf of beer bread, crafted with an ever-changing New Belgium selection.) eatwithsafta.com

102


MEALS ON THE MOVE It’s a tasty day when one of these three new food trucks heads your way: n Prieto Catering is a mobile Mexican eatery from Erika Rojas, the first graduate of Comal Heritage Food Incubator. (The Globeville eatery, started by the nonprofit Focus Points Family Resource Center, employs immigrant and refugee women and teaches them business skills and the culinary arts.) If available, order the slow12@MADISON: Forget 2-for-1 drinks.

THE POST BREWING CO.: A regular

12@Madison– chef/partner Jeff Osaka’s

ol’ fried chicken sandwich not filling

global eatery in Congress –has something

enough for you? Replace the bread with

more fun on the menu. Step one: Order

more chicken. It’s not on the menu, but

the seasonal drink, which arrives with

diners at The Post can order a Double

a flavored ice cube. This summer, the

Down any time: Two fried, boneless

featured tipple was a Paloma with a

chicken breasts frame bacon, tomatoes,

watermelon-Campari

two:

tomato jam, slaw and pickles; there’s

Finish said drink before the ice cube melts.

a side of fries too. Now try and tell us

(Winter imbibers will have an advantage

you’re still hungry. postbrewing.com

cube.

Step

here.) Step three: Earn yourself a refill for

cooked beef birria.

n Colorado native Penelope Wong’s Yuan Wonton (pictured) finally hit the road late this past summer. Specializing in chili-garlic wontons drizzled with housemade Szechuan chili oil and hand-pleated dumplings shaped from scratch-made dough, the truck brings an authentic taste of Asia to Denver’s streets.

n Vegan and vegetarian food has gone mainstream, and the Veggie Whisperer

$8 (instead of $13). 12atmadison.com

wants to spread it even farther. The worldly menu changes with the seasons–

SECOND COURSE

highlighting local ingredients whenever

Here are four more not-to-be-missed specialty dishes on area menus: n Omakase menu at Sushi Ronin; sushironindenver.com. n Soup dumplings, on the first Sunday of every month, at Fortune Wok to Table; fortunewoktotable.com. n Decadent Arcana burger on a house-made bun, available during brunch, happy hour, or during Terroir Tuesdays (paired with high-end wines), at Arcana; arcanarestaurant.com. n Cioppino, a Sunday night special, at Jax Fish House; jaxfishhouse.com. 103

possible–and reflects owner Doug Petri’s fine dining focus. (We wonder: Does that make an entrée here a Petri dish?) This year’s offerings have focused on Middle Eastern and Israeli flavors, such as shawarma spice-dusted French fries and a tahini shake for dessert.


Travel Spotlight: Denver

WHAT’S YOUR PLEASURE?

THAT’S EASY FOR YOU TO SPEAK

Three guides offer a chance

Since Williams & Graham opened in 2011, speakeasy culture has boomed in Denver. Here’s what to drink at some of the city’s best hidden bars– if you can find them. AT:

WHICH YOU’LL FIND:

Run for the Roses

B&GC

Retrograde

Underneath Free Market at Dairy Block.

In the alley behind Halcyon Hotel.

Through a walk-in cooler door at Frozen Matter ice cream parlor.

ORDER:

YOU SHOULD ALSO KNOW:

Whatever you draw from the deck of cards on which the drink menu is printed (hopefully it’s the vintage Old Fashioned).

The subterranean spot also serves a fantastic lineup of parlor snacks and sweet treats.

The house martini service (choose gin or vodka).

You can only make a required reservation by texting the bar after 3 p.m. on the day you want to visit.

Whichever drink sounds the oddest (like the Träkál-centric the Wicker Man).

to experience Denver’s defining diversions.

ART Wander RiNo’s vibrant streets during a two-hour, two-mile Denver Graffiti Tour ($30; Saturdays at 10 and 11 a.m., Sundays at 10 a.m.). You’ll learn all about the artists and the stories behind the works, as well as how the neighborhood’s evolution has affected

You can only order ice cream out front, but you can bring your scoop of choice into the bar.

residents and the arts community. denvergraffititour.com

CANNABIS Curious

about

cultivated

how

and

how

marijuana

is

dispensaries

actually operate? Seed & Smith is happy to walk you through the basics. During this 40-minute visit, you’ll see the way cannabis is grown, processed and extracted. The free tours run

Millers & Rossi

Behind a painting at the back of a RiNo gallery.

A Bee’s Knees (gin, honey, and lemon juice).

Take your time perusing the contemporary works from local artists before or after cocktail hour.

between noon and 6 p.m., Thursday through Sunday. seedandsmith.com

SPIRITS Family-owned-and-operated Leopold Bros. distillery has been around since

CHECK IN AND CHECK IT OUT

1999, though it didn’t move to Colorado

Hotels across the city have recognized the need to offer more than just high thread counts and complimentary croissants.

until the mid-2000s. Get the full story and taste the lineup of highly regarded spirits and liqueurs during a public

DON’T FORGET TO SWEAT

tour (offered every Thursday, Friday

You don’t have to give up your fitness routine just because you’re on vacation or traveling for work

and Saturday for just $20, with a

(though we won’t judge you if you do). Halcyon in Cherry Creek debuted a wellness passport

portion benefiting local nonprofits).

this summer that grants guests one free fitness class per day at five area studios, including

leopoldbros.com

SoulCycle and Rise Nation. At the Jacquard, you can request a Peloton bike be delivered to your room. halcyonhotelcherrycreek.com; thejacquard.com GONE TO THE DOGS Bringing Fido along on your trip? The Crawford Hotel inside Denver Union Station offers Furbos (interactive dog cameras) to guests so they can check in on their less-than60-pound pups, talk to them (via the app’s two-way audio) and even dispense treats. Your room will be made up with a dog bed and matching bowls plus a chew toy, a bone and waste bags. thecrawfordhotel.com 104


NOT-SO-OBVIOUS MUSEUMS By all means keep visiting your favorite famous exhibit venue. Now here’s what to add. If you’re a fan of… Denver Botanic Gardens Visit… Museum of Outdoor Arts Its name is a little misleading, as the MOA isn’t entirely focused on art al fresco. Yes, there is a vast collection of bronze statues, kinetic sculptures and other pieces spread around Englewood Civic Center (the museum’s home base) and Greenwood Village (self-paced and

If you’re a fan of… MCA Denver Visit… Black Cube This nomadic, contemporary art museum is known for its ambitious, experimental projects, such as site-specific installations created in and around cars, or temporary public art projects that question how our monuments could better reflect our communities. In September, Black

guided tours are available), but the collection with five galleries and arts

If you’re a fan of… Clyfford Still Museum

programming. Must-see exhibition:

Visit…

Natura Obscura, a fantasy-like

Kirkland Museum of

immersive experience that explores the

Fine & Decorative Art

natural environment and the cosmos

Vance Kirkland was one of Colorado’s

and was created with Prismajic, has

most revered painters. His original brick-

been so popular MOA is extending its

walled studio anchors this 38,500-square-

run through December 29.

foot institution, which in early 2018

botanicgardens.org; moaonline.org

moved into a striking, new, yellow

museum also has an extensive indoor

terra-cotta building in Golden Triangle.

Cube opened its official headquarters

With more than 4,000 works presented

in Englewood, a flexible space that

in salon style, plan to spend a few

continues the nonprofit’s mission of

hours discovering the international and

engaging diverse audiences while

regional treasures inside, many of which

supporting professional growth and a

are one-of-a-kind. Must-see exhibition:

sustainable living for artists.

Colorado Abstract +10: A History & A

Must-see exhibition: The Fulfillment

Survey, presented in conjunction with

Center, a commentary on modern

the Arvada Center for the Arts and

consumerism featuring work by 18

Humanities, through January 12, 2020.

artists, on view through December 7.

clyffordstillmuseum.org;

blackcube.art

kirklandmuseum.org

8 OTHER PLACES TO PERCH—AND THEIR PERKS • Third-floor rooftop pool terrace (access

• A mini-fridge filled with local tipples and

• Free access to cultural hot spots such as

is included with some spa treatments on

curated by Death & Co. at the Ramble Hotel.

the Clyfford Still Museum and the Denver

certain days) at Four Seasons Hotel Denver.

• Private tours with New Belgium Brewing

Museum of Nature & Science for those

• Complimentary Bourbon Hour (5:30 to 7:30

Company’s head brewer at the on-site

staying at Le Méridien Denver Downtown.

p.m. nightly) at the Oxford Hotel, featuring

brewery inside the Source Hotel & Market

• Complimentary guided art tours around

Laws Whiskey and other local libations (it’s

Hall (only $50 per guest room).

the Art, a Hotel on Saturdays at 11 a.m.

open to the public too).

and 5 p.m. 105


Forks & Knives

FRANK’S FAVORITES: Celebrity chef: “Jean-Georges puts out gorgeous food, Eric Ripert too. But José Andrés? He’s a hero, man.” Denver restaurant: “Right now I’m loving Uchi–not just for the flavor and beauty, but for what Sally Herbert has going at Altius Farms above it. And that view into her farm–so, so great.” Culinary mentor: “Julia Child was my television mentor. The real deal was Mel Master. Mel gave me the opportunity to cook at The French Laundry and Gramercy Tavern. He sent me to Italy to understand pasta, and to France to gain finesse. I owe him my career.” Cookbook: “My most treasured cookbook is a copy of The Way to Cook that Julia Child signed. I saw her walking with her sister 106

in Cherry Creek, and I had the book in the back of my car. She was so kind and gracious when I ran at her like a crazed man, waving her cookbook. She dined at Mizuna that night, and I’m lucky for every part of that day and experience.” Local markets: “Pacific Mercantile is a weekly go-to. The 32nd Street Farmers’ Market is the real deal, and the Highlands is lucky to have Seafood Landing for really fresh, amazing fish.” Food TV show: “Chef’s Table.” Dish to make at home: “Any simple pasta.” Kitchen tools: “At home it’d be a really sharp 8-inch Japanese chef knife and a stand mixer with a dough hook.”


PLEASING DENVER’S DINERS Culinary standards in the Mile-High City are higher today, and this man helped make it happen. By Allyson Reedy

Frank Bonanno, the celebrated chef/owner of 10 Denver

so much, but the coolest thing about Sfuzzi was that there were

restaurants, bars and a food market, likes to talk about

no cans to open,” says Bonanno. “It was eye-opening. Also, that

the rapper “Tyler, the Creator.” And Action Bronson and

was where I met [chef/restaurateur] Sean Kelly, from whom I

Questlove and other people you wouldn’t expect to be on the

ultimately bought Aubergine to turn into Mizuna.”

tip of the tongue of a guy best known for the French fine-

That was Bonanno’s first restaurant, which opened in 2001

dining spot, Mizuna.

and made an immediate impact on the Denver dining scene,

“Marco [Bonanno’s 15-year-old son] forced me to watch

filling a void for solid French food. In the years since, Bonanno

Tyler, the Creator make breakfast with Dominique Crenn,

has filled more voids—for hand-crafted cocktails at Green

and I’m so glad he did,” says Bonanno. “What a great time

Russell, hot chicken at Lou’s Food Bar and gourmet food stalls

to be a cook, when artists like Questlove and Roy Choi are

at Denver Milk Market.

spreading the good word all over the place.”

How have things changed in 18 years? “The diners in Denver have

When Bonanno first started cooking, though, the culinary

higher expectations, which consistently challenge restaurateurs

landscape was a little different. Foods—and the chefs that

to improve,” Bonanno says. “Once, you had to get in your car and

create them—weren’t blasted from cable TV channels and

choose among a small handful of options for really good food, but

social media posts. People who went into the restaurant

now neighborhoods are shaped by the restaurants at their core.

business certainly didn’t do so with visions of endorsement

RiNo and Acorn, LoDo and Work & Class, LoHi and Uncle. What

deals and becoming a “celebrity chef” in their heads.

a great time to live and dine in Denver!”

Bonanno got his first restaurant “job” in the fourth grade,

The way people like to eat has also changed. We’ve moved

folding pizza boxes at Rudy’s in Closter, N.J. For every twenty

to a preference for the casual, and Bonanno has been at the

boxes he folded, he earned a slice. Next he bussed tables

forefront of that too. Denver Milk Market, his newest concept,

at Villa Victoria on the Jersey Shore. After heading west to

provides eaters with options galore in the form of 16 food and

attend the University of Denver, Bonanno found himself at

drink stalls, all under one roof.

a crossroads. His finance/real estate degree wasn’t getting

But at the end of the day (sometimes literally), it’s the fervor

him anywhere, so he fell back on what he loved: restaurants.

for food that drives us to Bonanno’s restaurants and keeps

He pretended he knew how to wood-fire pizzas to get a

him going.

job at Sfuzzi, a Cherry Creek Italian restaurant. He loved

“Last night I brought the Lobster Fra Diavolo home from

cooking so much that he went back to school, this time at the

Luca, and the smell woke my son up,” Bonanno says. “We sat

Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.

there in the silence of midnight eating it together, then went

“It’s embarrassing to say now because the industry has changed

to bed and slept like babies.”

107


parents founded the Global Down Syndrome Foundation,

Inspiring Women Spotlight

which she now leads as president and CEO. Its stated mission is to significantly improve the lives of people with Down syndrome through research, medical care, education and advocacy. And of all the foundation has accomplished over the last decade, Sie Whitten believes its most significant achievement is the reversal of a 20-year trend of flat or diminished funding of Down syndrome research at the NIH. In three years, from 2016 to 2019, funding grew from roughly $25 million to $77 million, thanks largely to the tireless lobbying of the foundation. “Tireless,” in fact, may be the most apt descriptor for Sie Whitten herself. She works a 70- to 80-hour week, garnering the support of what she calls the foundation’s “champions” in Congress and the NIH. Under her leadership, the foundation lobbied the NIH to create a Down syndrome research initiative, known as the INCLUDE project, that draws on all the NIH’s 26 institutes. That’s because people with Down syndrome have a unique physiology that makes them far

TIRELESS CHAMPION

more prone to conditions such as autoimmune disorders,

Down syndrome wasn’t getting enough research attention. Then Michelle Sie Whitten’s daughter was born, and the new mom got busy.

syndrome is, in essence, an immune system disorder; and

congenital heart defects, thyroid disease and type 1 diabetes. The foundation has helped sponsor research that has led to two particularly important discoveries: the fact that Down the extremely close relationship between Down syndrome and Alzheimer’s disease. And it funds and supports the country’s first academic home for Down syndrome research, the Linda Crnic Institute in Aurora, Colorado.

By Leslie Garisto Pfaff

The inspiration for all of this is Sophia Whitten, now 16.

Michelle Sie Whitten was 19 weeks into her first pregnancy when

keeps her optimistic that the foundation will achieve what

She’s what fuels Sie Whitten’s 80-hour work weeks and

she learned that her daughter would be born with Down syndrome, and 32 weeks in when her daughter was diagnosed with a heart defect that would require open-heart surgery. What shocked Sie

she calls “our laser-focused goals:” to extend the lifespan for people with Down syndrome (now at about 60 years, but less than that for minorities) and to dramatically improve their

Whitten more than the news itself was how little medical and

health outcomes.

scientific information she could find on what life for her daughter

It doesn’t hurt that Michelle Sie Whitten “was born

would be like. The doctors she saw weren’t much help on that front:

with a righteous gene,” as she describes it. As a child, for

“I was very surprised,” she says, “that a lot of doctors didn’t seem

instance, she was appalled to learn about slavery and the

to know what the diagnosis really meant–although they were very

fact that women in the U.S. were once denied suffrage. The

adamant about pushing me toward termination.”

foundation, she says, simply “expands the spectrum I feel

Sophia Whitten was born in 2003, and that lack of information

passionate about in terms of protecting human and civil

would haunt her mother for the next six years. Impelled by what she calls her type-A personality, she met with the director of the National Institutes of Health (NIH), who stunned her by telling her

rights.” If its achievements thus far are any indication, that passion could very well change the lives of the estimated 5.8 million people worldwide with Down syndrome–a righteous

that Down syndrome was the least-funded condition at the NIH.

accomplishment if there ever was one.

In 2009, determined to change that statistic, Sie Whitten and her

To learn more, go to globaldownsyndrome.org.

108


Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 44mm titanium case and strap. $7,600

ORIS: PAST, PRESENT & FUTURE

A look at yesterday’s inspirations, today’s executions and tomorrow’s possibilities By Celine Simon Founded in 1904 in Hölstein, Switzerland, Oris is known for offering topnotch Swiss-made watches at value-driven prices. The Oris collection boasts plenty of variety from sporty divers and vintage-inspired aviation timepieces to futuristic watch designs. Drawing design cues from vintage Oris dive watches from the '60s, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has enjoyed widespread popularity in recent years. A particularly appealing edition is the bi-colored Bico, which brings together stainless steel and bronze. The watch is fitted with a 40mm steel case, a bronze and unidirectional rotating bezel, and a two-tone steel and bronze metal bracelet. Finishing off the look of the retro-styled diver is a blue dial punctuated with warm-toned luminescence to mimic aging. The Big Crown Pointer Date is another collection that takes inspiration from Oris’ archives, complete with oversized crowns that were once necessary for gloved-pilots and a pointer date display encircling the dials. The red-colored dial of this Big Crown Pointer Date model provides a striking contrast to the stainless steel 40mm case, which is topped with an old-school coin-edged bezel. The aged leather strap emphasizes the vintage nature

Divers Sixty-Five 40 mm stainless steel case and strap. $2,350

of the watch while the sapphire caseback offers a view of the modern automatic movement inside. Markedly different than other Oris watches, the avant-garde Big Crown ProPilot X is a reflection of contemporary culture and reconnects people to how things work. At the heart of the new 44mm titanium watch is Calibre 115, a fresh in-house skeletonized movement built to not only reveal all of its mechanics but also to supply the watch with 10 days of power reserve. Whether with the matching titanium bracelet or leather strap, the Big Crown ProPilot X shows Oris’s watchmaking competence and its confidence as the Swiss watch industry prepares for a new decade. Big Crown Pointer Date 40mm stainless steel case, leather strap. $1,600

109


Travel Spotlight: Orange County, California

WEST COAST PLEASURELAND Orange County invites you to enjoy nature, fitness, fine cuisine and a dash of luxury. By Anne Marie Panoringan

Vacations are as much about experiences as about relaxing. As Orange County enjoys idyllic weather nearly year-round, spending time outdoors is a must while you’re staying at one of its bespoke resorts. We know a trio of destinations that will cater to your outdoorsy side.

HOTELS YOU WON’T WANT TO LEAVE Tucked into the canyons, The Ranch at Laguna Beach is one of National Geographic’s “Unique Lodges of the World.” On site is Ben Brown’s Golf Course, a nine-hole property built with sustainability and seclusion in mind. Roaming Links Masters are part of this relaxed, country-club environment, promoting proper playing pace. Chef Kyle St. John oversees the rustic Harvest onsite and the sandy Lost Pier Café at nearby Aliso Beach. Guests can savor egg-fueled mornings, ceviche and sangria billed to their room.

A member of Preferred Hotels and Resorts, Balboa Bay Resort is the only Forbes Four-Star, AAA Four-Diamond waterfront resort in Newport Beach. Roaming the harbor in its electric Duffy boat is a chic way to explore the surrounding area. Be sure to time your cruising so that you can witness one of this area’s trademark stunning sunsets. Chef Vic Casanova’s elevated gastropub selections at Balboa Bay Resort’s A&O Kitchen + Bar are best appreciated with one of the establishment’s thoughtful craft cocktails. Cozy up to a fire pit and watch the ships sail by.

With a modest 22 rooms, Hotel Joaquin is considered Auric Road Collection’s petite seaside getaway. Energize with a rooftop yoga session, or walk down to Shaw’s Cove to take in Laguna’s ocean air. Better yet, inquire about the Adventure Outpost, and prepare for an exhilarating paddle board or kayaking excursion. Chef Leo Bongarra’s personable nature is expressed through his cuisine. Experience Hotel Joaquin’s restaurant Saline’s seacentric, French-Mediterranean fare, and remember to linger for the inclusive, nourishing breakfast. 110


JUST UP FROM THE BEACH Beach towns are more than surf and sand. They can lure explorers into the hills or on a trip back in time. Here we present our short list of activities to get you started. (Hint: Though you’ll be moving instead of lolling, sunscreen is still recommended.) Ambitious types can head to Alta Laguna Park, also known as Top of the World. This bird’s-eye view of Laguna Beach is as peaceful as it is picturesque. Hike

LOCALS’ BEST-KEPT CULINARY SECRETS Warm service and consistent cuisine are year-round expectations in Orange County’s distinctive eateries, both well-known and under-the-radar. Fortunately, there’s a range of

the various trails, and remember to take it all in. Spend an afternoon roaming the flora at Sherman Library and Gardens in Corona del Mar. Year-round events provide opportunities to learn beyond a self-guided tour. Or partake of afternoon tea or Sunday dinner at Café Jardin by Chef Pascal Olhats. Finally, for the quintessential Orange County encounter, reserve tickets for Pageant of the Masters, a spectacle that must be witnessed firsthand. Pageant will leave audiences amazed by the magic of lighting and artwork coming to life.

tastes and price points to be found. We offer a quartet of suggestions to whet your appetite in these beach towns. Commitment to authenticity is what drives Moulin’s Laguna Beach sidewalk café. Divine

croissants

and

charming

Parisian

furnishings encourage lingering conversation and glasses of wine. The spot’s extensive salad offerings and prepared-to-order crepes make for a satiating meal any day of the week. Up Pacific Coast Highway, Pirozzi Corona del Mar serves diners in its modest space. Handmade pastas and succulent seafood entice diners to a lively setting nightly. Its 900-degree, olive woodburning oven produces authentic Napoletanastyle pizzas. Back down PCH, situated away is on display at Royal Hawaiian Fire Grill.

THE MEAL THAT RULES WEEKENDS

Request its infamous Lapu Lapu drink, featuring

Brunch is an extension of the breakfast we can

a trio of rums, with your meaty meal. Aloha

relate to, yet rarely have enough time to relish.

Sunday is an extension of Royal Hawaiian’s

Here are a few new contenders to consider:

“Changes in Latitude” Happy Hour, featuring

n Harley Laguna Beach (pictured, right)

fresh empanadas, shishito peppers and ahi

serves comforting drop biscuits and gravy, beef

tuna poke. La Sirena Grill’s hole-in-the-wall

breakfast sausage and a Chambong experience

status attracts industry appetites and residents

all weekend.

seeking a casual bite when in downtown Laguna.

n Marche Moderne Sundays along Newport

However, its south Laguna outpost has ample

coast are as indulgent as they come, with caviar,

seating and beer to complement the savory

over-the-top French toast and deluxe deviled eggs.

Mexican offerings. It has been in business for 20

n Corona de Mar’s CdM Restaurant doles out a

years, and the avocado lime salad, carnitas and

diverse prix-fixe, with avocado salad, eggs in purgatory

carne asada are best-sellers.

and a brunch burger.

from the downtown Laguna bustle, tiki chic

111


Forks & Knives

his specialty. An interest was sparked, leading to an apprenticeship opportunity as a teenager in an established Italian kitchen. His father’s farm in Washington state became an outdoor lesson in biodynamic agriculture. There he learned the importance of using locally sourced and organic materials for fertilizing and supporting chemical-free farming. He later applied his sharpening culinary skills at an award-winning Seattle restaurant, the Relais & Chateaux-designated property Canlis. Simons received a formal education at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and his first role at Andrea–named for the Renaissance-era architect who inspired the property’s design–was as sous chef. Today, as executive chef, he oversees this crown jewel of The Resort at Pelican Hill. His back-ofthe-house team executes elaborate regional wine-pairing dinners and specializes in more than 12 freshly rolled pastas. One signature dish, Barrel-aged Acquerello Risotto with Wild Mushrooms, is an interactive course finished tableside. The chef ’s responsibilities include

CHEF ON THE COAST

preparing

daily

seafood

crudo

selections

of

Dungeness

crab,

lightly cured salmon belly and geoduck

Drawing on Italian family tradition, Chris Simons brings his brand of culinary distinction to California’s Orange County.

clam.

On

Saturdays,

Simons can be found at Irvine Farmers

Market

shopping

for

seasonal produce for the menu. An avid cookbook reader, he says

By Anne Marie Panoringan

his work of choice is Letters to a

What makes a restaurant a hit? For Andrea Ristorante at Pelican

adopted his ‘Ten Commandments’

Hill in Newport Coast, California, sweeping views of the Pacific are

in my own kitchen for everything

one ingredient. World-class service is undoubtedly a huge factor

from how to prep ingredients to

too. But it’s the food for which we seek out an eatery, and behind

proper knife care,” says Simons.

the food there is a chef who is ultimately responsible. Here that’s

It is this focus on detail that has

Chris Simons.

elevated Simons to the very front

An awareness of the culinary arts developed in Simons from

rank of creative chefs nationally–

childhood. At age nine he helped his mother craft his Italian

and decisively raised the culinary

family’s holiday feasts; pastries, candy and savories were

bar in Newport Coast.

Young Chef by Daniel Boulud. “I’ve

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CHRIS’S FAVORITES Restaurant dish: “Beef tendon soup with large noodles at A & J Restaurant is extraordinary.” Kitchen essential: “Can’t live without Moribashi plating chopsticks.” Personal grocery shopping: “Asian grocery stores, like 99 Ranch and H Mart.” Source of inspiration: “Julia Child!” Home cooking dish: “Spaghetti and meatballs; so simple, but so delicious.”


ON THE CUTTING EDGE: WILLIAM HENRY CRAFTS EXQUISITE WORKS OF ART William Henry is an American luxury brand creating timeless style for men through jewelry and unique, superbly crafted accessories. The hallmark of the company’s work is the seamless integration of classic natural materials, precious metals and alloys to create exquisite collections, including award-winning pocketknives, writing instruments, money clips and cufflinks.

Lancet Blue Dragon The Lancet Blue Dragon features a beautiful hand-forged frame of “twist” damascus by Chad Nichols, inlaid with a mesmerizing scale in green jade, embellished with gold and platinum maki-e. The blade is hand-forged with a Boomerang damascus by Chad Nichols; the button lock and thumb stud are set with black diamonds. B10 Blue Dragon, Edition of 10 pieces. $9,750

Kestrel Glow The Kestrel Glow features a light and resilient frame in aerospace grade titanium, inlaid with zinc matrix apple coral. The blade is handforged with a Boomerang damascus by Chad Nichols; the one-hand button lock and the thumb stud are set with white topaz gemstones. The Kestrel Glow is a compact but versatile folder that works and presents beautifully in any situation. The design, which offers a deep finger groove at the intersection between the handle and blade, makes this knife remarkably comfortable in the hand while being very small and easy to carry.

Spearpoint Jerome

B09 Glow, Edition of 250 pieces. $850

The Spearpoint Jerome features a frame in hand carved sterling silver by Lee Downey, inlaid with zinc matrix Kingman turquoise. The blade is wave damascus with an extra strong core of ZDP-189. The one-hand button lock and the thumb stud are set with white topaz gemstones. A remarkable design that gives you an instrument with a full-size secure grip, and a versatile deep-belly blade, the Spearpoint epitomizes William Henry’s core philosophy: Superlative function deserves to be elevated to superlative art. B12 Jerome, Edition of 250 pieces. $2,500

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These rare pieces are imbued with the personality of their owners and become part of their living legacy.


Above: GMWB5000D-1, metal case and strap, $500

“ I want them to remain G-SHOCK fans forever.� -Kikuo Ibe

: GMWB5000GD-9, metal case and strap, $550

GMWB5000-1, metal case, resin strap, $400


REDEFINING A CLASSIC G-SHOCK unveils a new collection in an homage to its original watch design “Watches are delicate precision instruments that inevitably break when dropped.” In 1981, then-CASIO engineer Kikuo Ibe made the irrational decision to challenge this apparently common-sense belief. He made it his mission to “create a robust watch that doesn’t break when dropped.” Ibe assembled a team of three individuals, known as “Team Tough,” tasked with creating a watch that defied industry standards for durability. After more than 200 prototypes failed to withstand the “Triple 10” test (10-year battery life, water resistance to 10 bar and shock resistance from a 10-foot fall), Ibe was contemplating on giving up on this project. He went on a short walk to clear his mind and noticed a girl playing with a ball in a park. Ibe discovered that the center of a rubber ball doesn’t suffer the effects of shock during a bounce on a rough surface, inspiring the idea of a hollow case structure. Soon after, the G-SHOCK DW-5000C was launched. The new G-SHOCK acquired explosive popularity, especially among young people. Considering these youth, Ibe had another new idea. “I want them to remain G-SHOCK fans forever,” he said, “and to continue wearing G-SHOCK through their adult years, too.” Repeated brainstorming sessions with the project team led to the emergence of a new concept: a full-metal G-SHOCK to be worn by adults. Thirty-five years after the launch of its original watch, G-SHOCK unveiled the Full Metal 5000 collection. Inspired by the original 1983 DW5000 design with its square-shaped bezel and brick-pattern face, this upgraded 5000 series collection watch boasts a modern, lustrous and full stainless-steel housing while maintaining a vintage aesthetic that nods to G-SHOCK’s origin. The latest in a series of G-SHOCK-connected watches that feature bluetooth connectivity, the Full Metal 5000 collection also incorporates a super illuminator LED light and solar watch battery, rendering it capable of self-charging. In addition, the timepiece features two-way time sync with G-SHOCK’s Multi-Band 6 technology. Defying convention to establish an entirely new concept of toughness, G-SHOCK continues to evolve, continuing to support Mr. Ibe’s mantra, “Never, never give up.”

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Kikuo Ibe, the father of G-SHOCK

“I want to make a watch that won’t break, even when dropped.” -Kikuo Ibe


Travel Spotlight: Phoenix/Scottsdale

ARIZONA’S SURPRISING ALLURE By Shoshana Leon

History, art and delicious dining are served up here, with the desert for dessert. Today’s Phoenix/Scottsdale is brimming with fascinating places to stay, to dine and to explore. So hang your preconceptions on the nearest cactus and prepare to be dazzled.

HISTORY RESTORED

First up, check out some grand and luxe resorts that double as treasures of tradition–with tales to tell: Royal

Palms

Resort

and

Spa.

Originally built in 1929 as a wellness retreat for the wife of financier Delos Cooke, a nephew of J.P. Morgan, this Phoenix facility first opened as an inn in 1948 and reopened in 1997 after a major restoration. A 2017 renovation upgraded the resort’s 119 guest rooms including the Presidential Suite, the mother-ofpearl tiled pool and the grounds. The Arizona Biltmore opened in the year of the great market crash, 1929. In 1930, chewing-gum magnate William Wrigley, Jr. became the resort’s owner and built its first swimming pool, later known to be Marilyn Monroe’s favorite pool. The

Fun fact: The doors at the front of the hotel are the original mahogany doors from the estate’s construction in 1929. royalpalmshotel.com PHOTO COURTESY OF ROYAL PALMS RESORT AND SPA

The Phoenician, a Scottsdale resort with iconic mountain views, recently completed the most extensive renovation in its 30-year history. It started in 2016 with a refresh of the guest suites and casitas, followed by a redesign of the lobby, the Thirsty Camel Lounge and Terrace and other public areas. In 2018, the new three-story Phoenician Spa and new Phoenician Athletic Club opened.

Arizona Biltmore renovated its historic

The golf area was transformed from three

main building, including the lobby and 77

nine-hole courses to one 18-hole course. The

original guest rooms, in 2016.

resort’s award-winning J&G Steakhouse’s renovation expanded patio seating.

Fun fact: Every U.S. president from Herbert Hoover through George W. Bush

Fun fact: The 60-room Canyon Suites on

has been a guest at the Arizona Biltmore.

The Phoenician grounds is the only Forbes

arizonabiltmore.com

Five-Star/AAA Five Diamond hotel in the greater Phoenix area. thephoenician.com PHOTO COURTESY OF THE PHOENICIAN

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CRAVE CULTURE? Abounding in art and music, Phoenix/Scottsdale has the welcome

n Desert Botanical Garden: On select evenings from

mat out for discerning visitors–and not just at night. Check out,

November 29 to December 31, Las Noches de las Luminarias is

for example:

a Valley holiday tradition with 8,000 flickering luminaria bags

n The Phoenix Art Museum: Located near downtown, this is

(weighted bags with tea lights inside to create a candle effect)

the largest art museum in the Southwestern U.S. Its permanent

lighting trails throughout the garden. Enjoy entertainment and

collection includes more than 19,000 works of art, from American,

admire the glow of Wild Rising animal sculptures (made from

Asian and European artists, as well as photography and fashion

colorful, recyclable plastic) from the current exhibit, which runs

design. The Legends of Speed exhibit runs through March and

through May.

features more than 20 cars by Maserati, Mercedes, Alfa Romeo,

Fun fact: With more than 50,000 desert plants, the Desert

Ford and more that have won many of the world’s most iconic

Botanical Garden is celebrating 80 years in the Valley. dbg.org

races, including Le Mans, the Indianapolis 500 and the Italian

PHOTO: DBG_FALL19_LUMI: .

Grand Prix. phxart.org

n Musical Instrument Museum (MIM): Located in North

n Scottsdale ArtWalk: The Scottsdale Gallery Association offers

Phoenix, the MIM has more than 7,000 musical instruments

weekly ArtWalks every Thursday evening in Old Town Scottsdale,

and objects from more than 200 countries, including

including eight themed Gold Palette ArtWalks throughout the

instruments from Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Maroon 5 and

year. Now in its 45th season, the Gold Palette ArtWalk schedule

more. On December 14-15 MIM will highlight seasonal songs

includes the Scottsdazzle ArtWalk on December 12 featuring

and musical traditions from around the world.

strolling carolers, musical performances and holiday shopping

The MIM presents more than 290 concerts per year. Holiday

opportunities; the Western Week ArtWalk on February 6; the

concerts include Canadian Brass, Irish Christmas in America,

Native Spirit ArtWalk on March 5; and Art, Wine and Chocolate

acoustic jazz guitarist Peter White in “A Peter White

on April 16. ArtWalks highlight Old Town Scottsdale galleries,

Christmas,” “A Happy, Joyous Hannukah” with the Klezmatics,

the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art and Scottsdale’s

and songwriter and pianist Jim Brickman.

Museum of the West.

Fun facts: The MIM includes a 299-seat theater and has

Fun fact: Scottsdale is home to more than 100 art galleries.

hosted appearances by Motown artist Martha Reeves, country

scottsdalegalleries.com

singer Lyle Lovett and jazz great Ramsey Lewis. mim.org

SCRUMPTIOUS SCOTTSDALE This neighbor of Phoenix was once described by The New York Times as “a desert version of Miami’s South Beach.” The nightlife is full of flavor, and so is the food.

n Shoppers at Scottsdale Fashion Square will be in for a treat in 2020 with the opening of a new location of the iconic Japanese restaurant Nobu, and Farmhouse, which will offer seasonal farm-traceable, “seed-to-plate” cuisine that showcases ingredients at their peak each month.

n Also near Scottsdale Fashion Square, the upscale Ocean 44, run by the Mastro family in is a hotspot for sustainable fresh seafood from around the world and hand-cut steaks in a sophisticated dining room with an exposition kitchen. ocean44.com PHOTO: OCEAN44; PHOTO COURTESY OF OCEAN 44.

n In August 2019, Maple & Ash opened at the Scottsdale Waterfront led by two-Michelin-star Chef Danny Grant. The menu includes wood-fired steaks and seafood, a fire-roasted seafood tower, caviar, handmade pasta and an acclaimed wine list. mapleandash.com TOP PHOTOS FROM LEFT: PHOTO COURTESY OF DAVID BLAKEMAN, PHOTO COURTESY OF THE DESERT BOTANICAL GARDEN, PHOTO COURTESY OF THE MUSICAL INSTRUMENT MUSEUM.

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Forks & Knives

good in the food and wine world,” he says. He attended Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne and also studied at Steven Spurrier’s L’Academie du Vin. “I loved every moment,” says Tarbell. “I was living in servants’ quarters. It was small, crowded and filled with great people and cooking aromas. My world was outside my small room, on the streets and in the markets. That adventure had a profound impact on my life.” At 23, Tarbell moved to Arizona and joined The Boulders Resort in Carefree, becoming the youngest food-and-beverage director of any AAA Five-Diamond property in the world. In 1994 he opened Tarbell’s, followed by The Wine Store in 2013 and The Tavern in 2014. All are located at 32nd Street and Camelback Road in Phoenix. Tarbell is the host of Plate and Pour on Arizona PBS, which won a regional Emmy Award in September 2019. He has

PHOENIX PHENOM

received

many

accolades

in

his career, including a James

For three decades, award-winning chef Mark Tarbell has helped make Arizona’s capital “a great food town.”

Beard nomination for Best Chef

By Shoshana Leon

“If I were to pick one moment in the

Southwest, and Tarbell’s has been recognized in such magazines as Food & Wine and Esquire.

Mark Tarbell knew he wanted to be a chef when he read acclaimed chef Jacques Pépin’s La Technique at age 16. “I was a dishwasher in a Mexican restaurant,” he says, “and it was the first book that made sense to me.”

past year as my proudest, it was being asked to cook at the Second Annual Jacques Pepin Foundation Founders’ Benefit Dinner in New York City,” says Tarbell. “That was

Growing up in a small town in New Hampshire ignited Tarbell’s desire to see the world. “My formative years were spent in a small seaside town,” he says. “When I was a youth, going to a town five miles away was a big adventure. This kindled a burning desire to see what was out there, to travel and see the world. Working in kitchens was my best and easiest route.”

a great honor.” Tarbell has helped the Phoenix culinary scene thrive for more than three decades. “The city has ballooned, with many great chefs, mixologists, sommeliers, brewers

At 18, Tarbell was a culinary apprentice at a hotel in Amsterdam;

and winemakers,” he says. “We are

then he moved to Paris. “To me, Paris was the mecca of all things

a great food town, period!”

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MARK’S FAVORITES Favorite local restaurants: “Tratto, Taco Chelo, Nobuo at Teeter House, Fame Caffe, Bri, Cotton and Copper and Pa’La, just to name a few.” Favorite dish to prepare: “Scallops.” Favorite dishes to eat: “Popcorn with butter and soy, a perfect roast chicken.” Favorite kitchen tool: “A great paring knife.” Favorite cookbook: “Jacques Pepin’s La Technique.”


Inspiring Women Spotlight false claims about her to the city’s Department of Children’s Services (DCS). Where others might have simply extended sympathy, Davis got involved in the process: Learning that DCS was severely understaffed, she became a volunteer courtappointed special advocate, investigating potential cases of child abuse and making recommendations to the court. When she moved to Phoenix, she found a way to do the same thing. And when she discovered that her sons’ charter school needed financial support, she decided to do more than just write a check. Great Hearts Academies runs 30 non-profit public charter schools in Arizona and Texas and is a top-ranked network of schools in the nation with more than 15,000 students on the waiting list. The Davis’s 15-year-old twin boys have attended a Great Hearts Academy since first grade. But because it’s a charter, there’s a funding gap of $2,500 per each student, and while some parents happily pay that annual $2,500, others can’t afford to. So Davis and her ex-husband became major capital donors to the school. But her support doesn’t stop at philanthropy. In 2016 she founded and helped organize an annual gala “to put more money into the schools,” she says, “but, more notably, into the teachers’ pockets.” For months prior to

HELPING HANDS

the event, she devotes her time to its organization–and her hard work pays off. That first year, the gala netted $400,000; this

Determined to help where the need is greatest, a philanthropist backs up her donations with good old-fashioned work.

year it’s projected to bring in a million dollars. Davis, who says she relishes “getting my hands dirty,” also offers more direct help to the school: She serves lunches, assists the IT department when its systems are down and consults with the administration and fellow parents on issues–which

By Leslie Garisto Pfaff

she researches with the aid of specialists in the field–that run Let’s imagine you were given the gift of time. Let’s say money was no problem. Could you really make a difference in people’s lives?

from vaping to video gaming to the stresses of social media. She’s also involved with a small group of Phoenix residents

You’d have to be smart and persistent about it, and that’s what Michele

who create “blessing bags” for the homeless, filling one-gallon

Davis is. A Phoenix resident since 2000, she’s the co-founder–with

zip-lock bags with everyday necessities such as soap, shampoo,

her ex-husband–of the successful identity theft protection company

toothpaste, razors, socks, pens, notepads and snacks and handing

LifeLock. And she has vowed “to work from the ground up to see where

them out to people in need. This activity hews perfectly to Davis’s

the advocacy is missing, and then to lend a helping hand where it’s

description of what motivates her: “I want to do work that’s

needed the most.” But even before LifeLock’s success afforded her the

impactful, inspiring and fulfilling because it changes lives,” she

means to devote her life to lending a hand, Davis was impelled by the

says. “At the end of the day, what drives and inspires me is really

desire to help.

simple: It’s hope.”

When she lived in Dallas, where she was born and raised, a neighbor

Check out greatheartsamerica.org

was in jeopardy of losing her daughter because her husband had made

and facebook.com/AZBlessingBags/ for more information

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Museum Classic Watch 40mm, stainless steel case, mesh bracelet. $695


MUSEUM CLASSIC

AN ICON OF MODERN DESIGN MOVADO WATCHES The celebrated single dot Museum dial is regarded as an icon of 20th century design. This proud legacy of design innovation remains relevant today and is present in everything we do, from our artist collaborations to our philanthropic efforts, to each new timepiece we create–making Movado modern ahead of its time.

Museum Classic Watch, 40mm, stainless steel case and bracelet. $795

Museum Classic Watch, 28mm, stainless steel case, mesh bracelet. $695

BRAND HISTORY Synonymous

with

artistry,

innovation

and

craftsmanship, Movado has been dedicated to pushing the boundaries of modern design and elevating the art of fine watchmaking to a fine art form since our founding in Switzerland in 1881. Over the past 138 years, Movado has been a brand in motion– always changing, always innovating, always moving forward. This quest for innovation has made us one of the world’s premier watchmakers with more than 100 patents and 200 international awards Museum Classic Watch, 40mm, stainless steel case, black leather bracelet. $495

for watch design and time technology. With a proud heritage of Swiss craftsmanship, design excellence, and technological innovation, Movado continues innovating into the future.

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6

WAYS TO UPDATE YOUR JEWELRY WARDROBE NOW By Georgia Alexia Benjou

1. PEARLS WITH A MODERN EDGE

BRANDON MAXWELL SPRING 2020 READY-TO-WEAR

BRANDON MAXWELL SPRING 2020 READY-TO-WEAR

Classic gemstones are always on-trend, but the lustrous pearl has undergone a makeover recently. So if you’re planning on breaking out your mother’s favorite strand, think again–this year’s comeback is about pearls with a modern edge. For a fashion-forward yet elegant option, turn to Italian designer Alessandra Donà. Her diamond and black pearl ear cuffs or rose gold and black South Sea pearl two-finger ring are both chic examples of current ways to wear pearls. Instead of channeling a conservative vibe, they’ll give some edge to a classic LBD or add just enough femininity to a menswear-inspired blazer. Alessandra Don`a Timeless Black Sought Sea pearl with diamond mono earring in 18K white gold. $1,980 Alessandra Don`a Friday Night Black South Sea pearl two-finger ring in18K rose gold. $1,980

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2. MISMATCHED EARRINGS Another modern way to wear pearls? Mismatched earrings. It’s a trend we saw on last fall’s runways that has now gained serious traction. The beauty of this look is its variety, giving wearers an endless set of options for unique pairings: an oversized hoop earring paired with a simple diamond stud or maybe two mismatched studs–like a diamond star and lightning bolt. Again, we turn to Alessandra Donà, who has mastered this look with her striking white South Sea pearl and tiger’s eye talon; wear it alone or paired with a single pearl and gold ear cuff for a refined look that’s current and edgy. Alessandra Don`a Friday Night white pearl & tiger eye single earring in 18K yellow gold. $1,305 Alessandra Don`a Friday Night white pearl single ear cuff in 18K yellow gold. $990 Hyde Park diamond star and lightning bolt mismatched studs in 14K yellow gold. $375

3. ESTATE JEWELS For anyone interested in vintage jewelry and gemstones, the latest interpretation of ladylike chic is making old baubles new again. Classic jewelry usually conjures up images of 1950s Hollywood leading ladies like Grace Kelly, but this look is a fresh take on estate jewels, especially bold pieces that combine dramatic flair with beautiful craftsmanship. Most women will be inclined to wear a single piece for a one-of-a-kind look, like a pair of elaborate of Bulgari diamond pavé earrings. If you want to partake in the parure trend that hit the fall 2019 runways at Chanel and Paco Rabanne, opt for a suite instead, like David Webb’s emerald and diamond earrings and necklace.

Bulgari diamond pavé earrings in 20K yellow gold. Price upon request

CHANEL FALL 2019 READY-TO-WEAR

PACO RABANNE FALL 2019 READY-TO-WEAR

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4. CHAINS As timeless as ladylike chic is, sometimes a woman needs jewelry that’s less grande dame and more rocker chick. Chains are the best way to pick up on the punk revival we’re seeing in jewelry right now; they toughen up any look that feels too pretty or precious. Stay on the sophisticated side of this look by choosing pieces that have interesting details, like those in the Menottes dinh van collection. This Parisian fine jewelry maison creates sleek, minimalist chain link necklaces, bracelets and rings with handcuff clasps. They’re the perfect foil for pairing with everything from a tasteful tweed ensemble to an Alexander McQueen studded leather trench coat. You could also load up those chain necklaces for a 1980s-era

Pesavento Alternating Large Link Necklace in Rhodium and Black Dust. $1,675

maximalist layers look. More is more here, so don’t worry about overkill, but rather the final effect: Do you have enough variety in chain lengths and finishes to create visual interest and not just a mass of metal? Experiment with mixing yellow and rose gold with silver or combine chain link necklaces with pearls (à la Chanel) or even a few charms (a luxe safety pin would work well here). Just pay attention to your neck length: If you have a short neck, stick with layering long strands, but if you’ve got a neck like Nefertiti, experiment pairing a wide choker with a series of increasingly long necklaces.

Menottes dinh van chain bracelet in 18K white gold with diamonds. $3,780

CHANEL AND ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FALL 2019 READY-TO-WEAR

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5.BRILLIANT COLORS If the rebel yell isn’t quite you, try expressing yourself in a more vivid way by opting for color. Embrace bold hues with ring stacks that mix band widths, metals and even stone colors, like wearing pink with green and purple. For watch wearers, color has found a new outlet in brilliant strap shades. Cartier leads the way with their recent release of personalized watch bands that let you select the material– everything from smooth calfskin to exotic alligator –in an endless array of hues. Choose refined pops of color like coffee brown, deep purple, forest green, or fuchsia pink that can stand on their own with any outfit, while avoiding that fashion taboo of being too matchy-matchy. Hyde Park gemstone baguette rings with tsavorite garnet in 18K white gold, $5,995, pink sapphire in 18K rose gold, $6,450, and purple sapphire in 18K rose gold, $7,275

Cartier Tank Anglaise with diamonds, small, with purple alligator strap. $19,600 Cartier Tank Solo, small, with fuchsia pink double strap. $2,775

VALENTINO SPRING 2020 READY-TO-WEAR

6. STATEMENT RING Another way to wear the color trend? In a statement-making ring. It’s a direct aboutface from the plethora of dainty rings we’ve been seeing lately, and why this style feels particularly fresh right now. While minimalists may opt for solid gold or silver in a sculptural shape, choosing a ring with dimension, texture and color will make an even bigger fashion statement–like this spectacular piece by award-winning fine jewelry designer Nikos Koulis. Its geometric form combines pavé and trillion set diamonds with a floating emerald (it’s suspended in clear enamel–a technique Koulis has both perfected and patented). Although truly a showpiece, this ring’s modern form and styling means it’s equally at home paired with a dramatic Erdem floral print evening gown as it is worn with your favorite white T-shirt and jeans. It’s also precisely why developing your own personally curated jewelry wardrobe is so essential to how you present yourself on any occasion; because as long as a fine jewelry piece appeals to your unique taste, it should be worn whenever it feels right and expresses your individual sense of style. 125

Nikos Koulis Universe ring with emerald and diamonds in 18K white gold. $9,740


STYLE FILE

Rainbow sapphire heart necklace in 14K yellow gold. $550 Rainbow semi precious half-way rings, available in 18K yellow and rose gold. Starting at $600 Rainbow sapphire ring in 14K yellow gold. $1,150 Jane Taylor rainbow slim huggie hoops in 14K yellow gold. $695 Rainbow sapphire bracelet in 14K yellow gold. $2,250

LIVE COLORFULLY

White enamel diamond studs in 14k yellow gold. $650 Light blue enamel diamond studs in 14k yellow gold. $650 Lapis lazuli diamond halo heart studs In 14k yellow gold. $450 Dark blue, light blue and pink enamel diamond pear cluster rings in 18k rose gold. $1,395

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STYLE FILE

Tassel bar 17" lariat necklace in 18K yellow gold. $500 Bar station 16.5� necklace in 18K yellow gold. $450 Triple bar drop earrings in 18K yellow gold. $250 Double bar drop earrings in 18K yellow gold. $350 Five bar station chain bracelet in 18K yellow gold. $400

MODERN MOVEMENT 127


STYLE FILE

CLASSICS WITH A TWIST

Mixed diamond bar pendant necklace in 18K yellow gold. $995 Diamond pavé lock and chain necklace $2,300, and bracelet $1,350, in 14K yellow gold Diamond “V” huggie earrings in 14K rose gold. $575 Beaded pavé diamond pendant in 18K rose gold. $1,000 Open diamond cluster ring in 18K rose gold. $1,350

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STYLE FILE

Diamond cluster pendant necklace in 18K white gold. $5,125 Diamond pavĂŠ engravable bar necklace in 14K white gold. $775 Diamond pavĂŠ chain link hoop earrings in 14K white gold. $700 Diamond fan ear climbers in 14K yellow gold. $1,200 Pear diamond and halo ear jackets in 14K white gold. $1,150

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STYLE FILE

POWER FLEX

Tri-color linked hoop earrings in 18K gold. $2,250 PavĂŠ diamond accent bracelets, available in 18K rose, yellow and white gold, and in two sizes, small $5,250 and large $7,050. Tri-color linked coil bracelet in 18K gold. $7,000 Large coiled cuff in 18K yellow gold. $6,450

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STYLE FILE

WORD SMITHING

Believe, Wish and Laugh diamond necklaces in 14K gold. $840 "L" Mother-of-pearl signet ring in 18K yellow gold. $1,350 "M" Mother-of-pearl and diamond halo signet ring in 18K yellow gold. $2,550 "A" White and black diamond pavĂŠ square signet ring in 18K yellow gold. $1,900 "E" Diamond pavĂŠ square signet ring in 18k yellow gold. $1,625 Roberto Coin Love Letter diamond initial necklaces in 18K white gold. $580

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STAY CONNECTED Follow along with Hyde Park Jewelers for updates on the latest releases, trends, and events in the worlds of fine jewelry, diamonds and timepieces.

@hpjewels | hpjewels.com

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Profile for Hyde Park Jewelers

Hyde Park Collection Book  

A curated collection of jewelry, watches and gemstones and the stories behind them. (Issue One: 2019/2020)

Hyde Park Collection Book  

A curated collection of jewelry, watches and gemstones and the stories behind them. (Issue One: 2019/2020)

Profile for mmckendry