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GQ Preview

Editor’s Letter

Products and events.

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Foreword

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London’s club scene is facing threats on all sides. Can the new “night czar” keep the beat alive?

Zenith’s Cairelli redux.

Watches

BY ELEANOR HALLS

29 Ruby Rose is fighting fit; Homeland’s new

95 Tony Parsons

Details

series plays the percentages; mix it up at home with the Dime drinks cabinet; plus, new design columnist Alice Rawsthorn. 29

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Wear a Savile Row suit and become the man you were born to be.

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66 Michael Wolff By defying the predictions of all mainstream media, President-Elect Trump broke news as we know it.

105 My Style

Inside the wardrobe of blogger, photographer and street-smart don GarçonJon. 66

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Cars Aston Martin trades roads for open waves with its first ever powerboat; plus, Alfa Romeo’s Giulia QV.

55 Travel Mark Hix recalls Britain’s first boutique hotels and rounds up the best of the bijou stays they inspired.

59 Taste

Michael Wignall’s star turn at Gidleigh Park; sample a flavour of central Worcester; a new riff on London’s Jazz Café.

107 Bachelor Pad Reflect your good taste with our sober selection of bar and crystalware.

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The Style Manual How Hugo Boss is automating bespoke tailoring; Nick Foulkes revisits the first-ever “curated concept” store; all you need to know about white trainers.

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The Drop Why Labour’s paralysis is bad for democracy; West Coast wonder with David Hockney; the first Trump-era novel; new musical LA LA Land sweeps GQ off its feet; how to look ahead after an unpredictable year in sport; a major score for TV soundtracks.

FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 9


Where we’re going, we don’t need drivers With autonomous cars soon to appear in our rear-view mirrors, GQ’s motoring masterminds put their heads together to design the ultimate ride of the future... STORY BY

Jason Barlow

Oncoming traffic: GQ’s coupé concept has been designed for a driverless new world

FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 11


AQUARACER CALIBRE 5 Cristiano Ronaldo is born to break all the records. His motivation is to win at every occasion to challenge the human statistics. Like TAG Heuer, Ronaldo surpasses the limits of his field and never cracks under pressure. www.tagheuer.com


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Life

Features & Fashion

Hygge-hacks to live by; get together at a cuddle party; heed the call of the kettlebells; what’s your chronotype? Plus, Bear Grylls on how to do battle with man’s best friend.

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Red hot red In memory of David Bowie, a personal reflection from the set of The Hunger. BY DYLAN JONES

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Alastair Campbell vs Tom Watson Labour’s second-in-command faces old foes and new with another party heavyweight.

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Irons in the fire As crowd violence returns to the Premier League, will West Ham fall foul of their fans? BY ROBERT CHALMERS

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We solve the real challenge faced by the least likely leader of the free world: how to dress.

Haute visibility Take jackets up a level with standout styles in bold prints and colours. PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Donald Trump’s wardrobe

Diego Merino

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Out To Lunch Upper-class clown Jack Whitehall entertains GQ at Dock Kitchen.

Why aren’t you following... Marloes Horst is worth your screen time. BY JONATHAN HEAF

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Andrew Weitz will dress you to success Meet the stylist of substance making executive decisions for the world’s business chiefs. BY VINCENT BOUCHER

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The lost land of the headhunters David Bailey records the disappearing traditions of India’s remote Nagaland tribes. BY WILLIAM DALRYMPLE

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Comfort zone Dressed-down looks for upscale men.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY RICHARD FOSTER

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The GQ Best-Dressed Men 2017

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From aesthetes and athletes to the princes of pop and Hollywood royalty, style leaders the world over are honoured in this year’s list.

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FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 13


Editor

DYLAN JONES PA TO THE EDITOR Lottie Stanners DEPUTY EDITOR Bill Prince

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Paul Solomons

MANAGING EDITOR Mark Russell

FASHION DIRECTOR Robert Johnston

FEATURES DIRECTOR Jonathan Heaf

SENIOR COMMISSIONING EDITORS Stuart McGurk, Charlie Burton ART DIRECTOR Keith Waterfield

ASSOCIATE ART EDITOR Oliver Jamieson

PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Ryan Grimley

ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Anna Akopyan

STYLE & GROOMING EDITOR Jessica Punter

FASHION EDITOR Grace Gilfeather

ACTING STYLE & GROOMING EDITOR Carlotta Constant CHIEF SUB-EDITOR George Chesterton

ACTING FASHION ASSISTANT Jake Pummintr

DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Aaron Callow

GQ.CO.UK EDITOR Conrad Quilty-Harper GQ.CO.UK PICTURE EDITOR Alfie Baldwin

SUB-EDITOR Kevin Long

ASSOCIATE STYLE EDITOR Nick Carvell

ENGAGEMENT MANAGER Becky Lucas

CONTRIBUTING WOMEN’S EDITOR Katie Grand

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Paul Henderson

DESIGN ASSISTANT TO THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Anna Gordon

JUNIOR SUB-EDITOR Holly Bruce

ASSOCIATE FEATURES EDITOR Matt Jones

STAFF WRITER Eleanor Halls

GQ.CO.UK INTERNS Kathleen Johnston, Josh Lee

CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS Luke Day, Elgar Johnson, Luke Leitch, Lou Stoppard CONTRIBUTING ART EDITOR Adam Clayton

POLITICAL EDITOR Matthew d’Ancona

LUXURY EDITOR Nick Foulkes

EROTIC AFFAIRS EDITOR Rebecca Newman

LITERARY EDITOR Olivia Cole

COMEDY EDITOR James Mullinger

OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Helen Placito

FENG SHUI EDITOR Tracey Emin

TABLET PRODUCER Lucy Streule

Contributing Editors Mel Agace, Andrew Anthony, Chris Ayres, Jason Barlow, Stephen Bayley, Tara Bernerd, Heston Blumenthal, Debra Bourne, Michael Bracewell, Jennifer Bradly, Charlie Brooks, Ed Caesar, Alastair Campbell, Naomi Campbell, Robert Chalmers, Jim Chapman, Nik Cohn, Giles Coren, Victoria Coren Mitchell, Andy Coulson, Adrian Deevoy, Alan Edwards, Robert Elms, David Furnish, AA Gill, Bear Grylls, Sophie Hastings, David Hicks, Mark Hix, Julia Hobsbawm, Boris Johnson, John Kampfner, Simon Kelner, Rod Liddle, Sascha Lilic, Frank Luntz, Dorian Lynskey, Piers Morgan, John Naughton, Hans-Ulrich Obrist, Dermot O’Leary, Ian Osborne, Tom Parker Bowles, Tony Parsons, Oliver  Peyton, Julia Peyton-Jones, Amol Rajan, Hugo Rifkind, David Rosen, Martin Samuel, Darius Sanai, Kenny Schachter, Simon Schama, Alix Sharkey, Ed Smith, Ed Vaizey, Ed Victor, Celia Walden, Danny Wallace, Jim White, Michael Wolff, Peter York, Toby Young

Contributing Photographers Miles Aldridge, Guy Aroch, David Bailey, Coppi Barbieri, Matthew Beedle, Gavin Bond, Richard Burbridge, Richard Cannon, Kenneth Cappello, Matthias Clamer, Dylan Don, Jill Greenberg, Marc Hom, Benny Horne, Norman Jean Roy, Tony Kelly, Steven Klein, David LaChapelle, Brigitte Lacombe, Joshua Lawrence, Sun Lee, Peter Lindbergh, Steve Neaves, Zed Nelson, Mitch Payne, Vincent Peters, Sudhir Pithwa, Rankin, Mick Rock, Mark Seliger, Søren Solkær, Mario Sorrenti, Mario Testino, Ellen von Unwerth, Mariano Vivanco, Matthias Vriens, Nick Wilson, Richard Young DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS Harriet Wilson SYNDICATION syndication@condenast.co.uk

EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER Stephanie Chrisostomou

CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Nicky Eaton

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SUBSCRIPTION DETAILS The subscription rates for GQ for one year (12 issues, including postage) are: UK £47.88. Overseas Airmail per year: 99 euros to EU, £90 rest of Europe and £119 to the rest of the world, $129 for air-assisted periodicals postage to the US – USPS/ISSN 003615. (Postmaster: GQ c/o Mercury Airfreight International Ltd Inc, 365 Blair Road, Avenel, New Jersey 07001.) Customer enquiries, changes of address, and orders payable to: GQ, Subscriptions Department, Lathkill Street, Market Harborough, Leics LE16 9EF. Subscriptions hotline: 0844 848 5202, open Monday to Friday 8am-9.30pm; Saturday 8am-4pm. Manage your subscription 24 hours a day by logging on to magazineboutique.co.uk/youraccount. Distributed by Condé Nast & National Magazine Distributors (COMAG) Tavistock Road, West Drayton, Middlesex UB7 7QE (Tel: 01895 433600; fax: 01895 433605). The paper used for this publication is based on renewable wood fibre. The wood these fibres is derived from is sourced from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. The producing mills are EMAS registered and operate according to highest environmental and health and safety standards. This magazine is fully recyclable – please log on to recyclenow.com for your local recycling options for paper and board.

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From Men’s Week to the Best-Dressed List,

GQ goes global! his month sees the tenth season of London Collections M e n , t h e m e n ’s fashion week I helped set up five years ago at the behest of the British Fashion Council. As well as celebrating our anniversary, this season we have also rebranded it London Fashion Week Men’s, a rather more straightforward moniker and what we actually wanted to call it when we launched (the reason we didn’t is because it was a bit conceited to call three Winning record : Dylan Jones’ days a week). With nearly 100 Editor Of The Year, Men’s Brand catwalk shows, presentations, trophy, from the BSME Awards 2016 events, parties, flash mobs, dinners and breakfasts, London once again hosts the very cream of young design talent, along with some of the most established brands in the world and including designers from as far afield as the US, Hong Kong and China. This season the week is being launched by the mayor of London, Sadiq Khan, while we have the support of all our stalwart menswear ambassadors – David Furnish, David Gandy, Nick Grimshaw, Lewis Hamilton, Dermot O’Leary, Tinie Tempah and Chinese superstar Hu Bing. We are also hosting Vivienne Westwood for the first time, along with the finest young British design talent, including Lou Dalton, Craig Green, E Tautz, Christopher Shannon, Oliver Spencer, Astrid Andersen, Agi & Sam, Christopher Raeburn, JW Anderson and Sibling, as well as the likes of David Beckham’s reinvigorated Kent & Curwen, Maharishi, YMC, Belstaff, John Smedley, John Lobb, Chester Barrie and Joseph. All corners of the menswear world are on display – yet more proof that menswear has never been more exciting – especially when it’s shown in London. To celebrate London Fashion Week Men’s, this month we publish our annual Style issue, including the all-important Best-Dressed List. We started our list nearly 20 years ago, principally because there wasn’t one and also because we could tell that men had finally reached a stage where they actually wanted validation. They wanted us to tell them whether they were well-dressed or not; yes, there were many who were rather less excited about the fact that they ended up on the Worst-Dressed List, but then some nominees took it with better grace than others: Ed

Photographs Getty Images; Rex; xposurephotos.com

T   Cover 1 Drake

Cover 2 Tom Hiddleston

Photographed by Jeff Kravitz

Photographed by BlayzenPhotos

Cover 3 Zayn Malik

Cover 4 A$AP Rocky

Photographed by Brian Killian

Photographed by Aurore Marechal

Cover 5 Bradley Cooper

Cover 6 Ryan Gosling

Photographed by Jonathan Beretta and Carl Sims

Photographed by Goffphotos.com

The world of fashion has transformed from a secret world of velvet ropes into a street party

FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 19


Sheeran even wrote a song about it (“Take It Back”). Since we launched all those years ago, the list has taken on a life of its own and you might be astonished at how seriously people now take it (we certainly do); towards the end of September, we start being lobbied by the agents and PR teams of various boldface names, encouraging us to think kindly of their charges as we start to prepare our list. The thing is, it’s not all down to us, and we take in the views of dozens of our contributors, friends and partners. We don’t just randomly alight upon someone and declare them to be an arbiter of sartorial correctness – usually their inclusion on the list has been the result of a long, heated argument in the office (occasionally resulting in people leaving in a flounce, having had their suggestions rebuffed). I once had repeated emails from a contract stylist in reference to a particular Hollywood A-lister he wanted to propose, though it only took me a phone call to find out he was actually on the payroll. Cheeky. The list also takes account of the interaction we have with you, our readers, via our website and social-media feeds. There is more of an international flavour to the list this year, reflecting not just the changing nature of the fashion industry – where an Instagram post can affect a company’s share price as well as a brand’s creative equity – but also the very nature of style, a global force which is driven by instant demographic opinion rather than top-down designer management. Make a mistake in this business by hiring the wrong designer, choosing the wrong photographer to shoot your campaign or simply by wearing the wrong shoes and you’ll be reprimanded immediately by millions of people you have never met. The world of fashion has changed, perhaps forever. What was once a secret world surrounded by actual and metaphorical velvet ropes, keeping the fashion cognoscenti safely away from grubby civilians, has exploded into a street party. And thank the Lord for that. When I look at the photographs of the men you and I have chosen this year to represent the very best in sartorial elegance, the first thing that springs to mind is obviously the diversity of what actually passes for being “well-dressed” these days, and how being able to carry a T-shirt off is now as important as knowing where to get a good tie. The other thing that is monumentally apparent is the amount of beard going on and the way in which the tailored hipster orthodoxy has become such a trait of 21st-century menswear. It’s all very well for those hedgie bods in Mayfair, who spend all day talking to their clients in southeast Asia dressed in little but track pants and polo shirts, to pontificate about the death of the suit, but venture eastwards and you’ll find yourself wading through a tsunami of tweed, beard oil and oxblood shoe polish, and bumping into a lot of men trying to look like Joe Ottaway or Imran Amed. We at the BFC have been most gratified by the success of our men’s week, and it’s wonderful to see so much attention focused on London right now, not just for its vibrant art scene, but for its success as a hub of international fashion, especially menswear. Additionally, our men’s week has thrown up its own little idiosyncrasy, one I always treat with a wry smile. Every six months, before the London shows start, I’ll get an email from an enthusiastic blogger who wants to ask me some questions about the city and its designers. Towards the end of the interview, there will invariably be a question about my own individual style, perhaps in the hope that I’ll express a penchant for purple velveteen T-shirts or neon neoprene codpieces, but whenever I’m asked what my own “personal dressing code” is, I can always sense their disappointment when I say, “Well, I get up in the morning and put on a blue suit.” It’s usually a nice blue suit, though.

The international flavour to this year’s list reflects the changing nature of style

Dylan Jones, Editor 20 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

Follow us @britishgq @dylanjonesgq

this month on

How to be a better man in 2017 All our insightful columns about life, from figures such as Bear Grylls and Tony Parsons, in one online archive. gq.uk/men

What to do when Tinder fails you As well as tips on how to have the best profile and dating repartee, we’ve got a special checklist you should refer to when searching for your long-term partner in crime. gq.uk/tinder

Your parenting dilemmas sorted Sunday Times bestseller and GQ Dads columnist The Unmumsy Mum is on hand to answer your biggest and weirdest fatherly worries in her sharp and shocking style. gq.uk/unmumsy

Video, video and more video From never-before-seen footage of new films and TV shows to Facebook Live interviews with the world’s biggest talents (such as Jenson Button with Associate Editor Paul Henderson, above) to insightful GQ documentaries, there’s hours of content to watch on our social-media and YouTube channels (youtube.com/britishgq), as well as at gq.co.uk/video.


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Contributors

David BAILEY The legendary photographer David Bailey had always wanted to visit the Naga Hills – home of the Naga tribes, on the border of India and Burma – but war and unrest always kept him away. In 2012, he was finally able to travel and photograph his experience, resulting in a new book, Bailey’s Naga Hills (Steidl, £32), from which an exclusive extract can be found in this issue.

Alice RAWSTHORN

Robert JOHNSTON

This month we welcome a new column in our Details section, “Design Archetypes”, written by New York Times critic Alice Rawsthorn. For its first outing, she considers pull-to-refresh: the app mechanic that delivers new content when we pull a fingertip down on our screens. “It’s something we use every day,” she says. “Yet, we never stop to think about how it was designed, and by whom.”

Our annual Best-Dressed Men list is back and this time it’s international. Compiled by the GQ team, our rundown comprises 50 of the world’s most stylish men across all walks of life; from Drake to Ryan Gosling, Alessandro Michele to Pep Guardiola. GQ’s Fashion Director Robert Johnston oversaw this year’s list, which is based around the idea of “off duty, on trend”.

Jason BARLOW

Photographs Michael Leckie; Rex

What would the perfect driverless car look like? Since experts estimate that by 2030 autonomous cars will be the norm, Contributing Editor Jason Barlow created GQ’s ideal prototype. “The prospect initially filled me with dread,” says Barlow. “[But] it’s not the end of the road so much as the start of a crazy new one.”

Jonathan DANIEL PRYCE Jonathan Daniel Pryce, better known as GarçonJon, is one of London’s finest street style photographers. Who else, then, to shoot four of our 50 Best-Dressed Men: Jack Guinness, David Furnish, Tim Blanks and Richard Biedul. “GQ’s list has become known as the best of the best,” says Pryce, who also appears on this month’s “My Style” page, “so it’s exciting to capture some of those who made the cut.” FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 23


Change of scene: Fabric became a symbol of the battle to save London’s clubs

THE LAST DAYS OF DISCO? London’s clubland – once a vital hotbed of dance culture and diversity – is in rapid decline, with countless venues closed down by repressive police measures and ruthless property development. Can Sadiq Khan’s newly appointed night czar really keep the capital open, or is the party over? STORY BY

his isn’t you,” thunders the big unit guarding the entrance to a central London nightclub. “It is me,” I say, shakily, looking at my ID. Was it me? I suddenly feel unsure. “It is me!” I repeat. I glance at my friend, who is already walking away. She was turned away for “intoxication” (she’s teetotal). She won’t be alone. My other friend isn’t wearing heels. She doesn’t stand a chance either. “Look at me,” bellows the doorman, brandishing my ID like a weapon. I look at him, terrified, and try, desperately, to look more like me. “OK, go in.” Giddy with relief, I pass £20 to the clipboard-carrying Swedish totem pole and offer my wrist to be stamped. She lifts her arm high and brings the stamp down. No ink comes out, but the fresh bruise should do. By the time I’m inside, I already want to go home. I knew this would happen. These London clubs for the super-rich – Jalouse, Movida, Bodo’s Schloss – are odious.

Photograph Rex

Eleanor Halls

Extortionately expensive, they pride themselves on notoriously unpleasant door policies (I was once refused entry at Bodo’s Schloss for touching the rope separating me from the bouncer) and play chart hits you’d hear in Fleet Services on the M3. There are exceptions: Tape, Drama and Cirque Le Soir are excellent, but their exclusivity means entry is difficult. Unless, as one punter did, you cry outside until Leonardo DiCaprio takes you in. There are clubs that are easy to get into, but that’s another problem – they’ll let anyone in. A club I used to go to earned a reputation for the 75-year-old man who came alone every Thursday and loitered in corners. At the weekend he’d run through the streets in camouflage doing one-man army training. This type of club seems to exist despite itself: the DJ might as well be mixing at a funeral and the housekeeping starts before midnight. Once, I was mopped to the side of the dancefloor by an overzealous cleaner.

There are clubs that are good, that put music first. But, tyrannically policed because of authorities’ crackdown on drugs, they’ve become unbearably strict. Fabric was one of the few venues to refuse sniffer dogs and searches, but that resulted in its closure last September. Since 2007, London has lost 40 per cent of its live music venues and half of its nightclubs. Madame Jojo’s, Limelight, Plastic People, Turnmills, AKA, Velvet Rooms and Cable: shut. Turned into property or crushed by regulations, London’s late-night venues are all meeting the same fate. The others are so lifeless, police don’t even know they exist. Sadiq Khan, mayor of London since last May, wants this to change. He’s vowed to turn the capital into a 24-hour city and protect venues from closure. “I don’t want young and creative Londoners abandoning our city to head to Amsterdam, to Berlin, to Prague, where clubs are supported and allowed to flourish,” he said.


Khan has appointed the city a “night czar” to mediate between authorities and clubs, and to work with planners to make sure clubs are valued and developers open new ones. According to City Hall, everyone from DJs (Tim Westwood put himself forward) to doctors and ex-police officers applied for the £35,000-ayear job. In November, Khan announced the role had been given to US-born comedian and broadcaster Amy Lamé. Lamé’s credentials are impressive: she’s a DJ, LGBT campaigner, cofounder of Duckie club nights at the Royal Vauxhall Tavern and was mayoress of Camden from 2010-11. Put her name into Google, however, and it’s not all straightforward. Shamelessly gobby, our new night czar has called Tories “scum”, branded George Osborne a c*** on Twitter, accused David Cameron of using his deceased child as a political “pawn” and admitted she wanted to “bitch slap” him. When Margaret Thatcher died, Lamé tweeted “ding dong the witch is dead”. Tories seethed, questioning Khan over whether Lamé was an appropriate candidate to work with Tory-backed boroughs. Conservative London Assembly member Gareth Bacon had a field day. I feel relieved. A feisty night czar is essential. She could have been less crass, but niceties won’t challenge oppressive authorities which, left to their own devices, would turn London into a ghost town after-hours. This is the root problem holding back London as a 24-hour city, and thus at the core of Lamé’s agenda. “My top priority is to stem the flow of closures,” Lamé tells me. “Since I started this job, I’ve spent a heck of a lot of time on the phone to venue owners and local authorities dealing with some pretty urgent situations. There are a number of venues under threat, and I want to prevent a closure like Fabric’s ever happening again. I’ve had my own club night for 21 years, I know what it’s like. “This is a nuanced job that requires conversation,” she says. “It isn’t painting by numbers.” Most importantly, Lamé has an endgame. “My goal is to turn London into the most dynamic, 24-hour city in the world. People think it’s New York, but it’s going to be London.” It’s an ambitious vision, considering the sorry state of London nightlife as it currently stands. uthorities are driving the life out of London nightclubs through over-regulation. When I saw Kano at Brixton’s O2 Academy, entering the venue was like passing airport security. I was searched and electronically scanned twice, my bag emptied and cigarettes individually vetted. At The Village Underground, the dance floor was

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regularly patrolled to scout out potential drug users. At The Coronet Theatre, female security have been known to put their hands inside girls’ underwear to check for drugs. Once, I was chucked out of a gig for using the mens’ toilets (the ladies being temporarily shut) and falsely accused of trying to smoke a joint. (Alone in the men’s – seriously?) Twenty years ago, it was accepted that you’d find more drugs, noise, sex, alcohol and crime in a club than in a coffee shop. Now, Soho’s Detox Kitchen might well be our clubbing exemplum. Drugs in the UK are not a rising problem (18 per cent of people aged 18-24 haven’t taken drugs in the last year compared to 25.2 per cent a decade ago), yet authorities are increasingly stringent. They would rather shut something down than maintain it. Islington council insisted Fabric shut as a result of two drug-related deaths on the premises, but documents suggest its closure was preplanned – organised by a cash-strapped council to cut policing costs. In fact, the police’s undercover “Operation Lenor” showed no evidence of hard drugs inside the venue, only people who “looked” high.

Left to their own devices, authorities would turn London into a ghost town It doesn’t stop at searches inside the venue. Public Space Protection Orders criminalise certain types of behaviour, such as drinking alcohol and playing loud music directly outside club premises, and the Anti-Social Behaviour, Crime And Policing Act 2014 puts anyone at risk of arrest for breaking the rules. The controversial Form 696 (a risk assessment showing police the style of music and target audience) means clubs are deterred from playing their preferred music, with authorities effectively making judgements about the relative dangers of musical styles. The result? Clubs are warding off their own clientele. Add dwindling custom to soaring rent costs, and it’s goodbye nightclub, hello luxury flats. Turnmills, AKA and The End were snapped up by property developers and Vauxhall’s Bar Code, along with many other gay clubs, closed after its rent went from £60,000 to £150,000. Peckham’s Bussey Building is under threat from construction opposite. For Lamé, property is the main problem. “It doesn’t take a genius to work out that you can earn more money turning a pub into luxury flats than you can pulling pints,” she says.

More property means more noise regulation. A single noise complaint incurs serious consequences for clubs and soundproofing a building is expensive. Visions, a club I like for its music and atmosphere, has an embarrassingly quiet sound system that puts me off returning. With higher rent and property development hindering existing clubs from operating, and new clubs from opening, London nightlife is at a standstill.

o, Lamé seems to be doing a good job, since a month into her role it was announced Fabric will reopen. “It shows why London needs a night czar,” she says, proudly. Lamé is also planning a series of “night surgeries” across London to speak to the public. At the time of writing, the first was set for 16 December. “I’m going to travel the length of the Piccadilly line and talk to everyone,” Lamé promises. If the success of Amsterdam’s night mayor is anything to go by, London’s future looks bright. Since 2014, former club promoter Mirik Milan has taken inspiration from festivals to create a friendlier, relaxed nighttime atmosphere. Milan swapped police in the main square for young, friendly “hosts” who gently reprimand and advise. He’s emulated the “no curfew” element at festivals by trialling ten 24-hour venues, so revellers aren’t turfed out at the same time, making a nuisance in the streets. These superclubs are spread across a sprawling “nighttime” suburb, where property development isn’t a problem. Translating a festival ethos to London nightlife, is, in my opinion, the way forward. While UK clubs are in decline, the festival industry is thriving: the number listed on eFestivals jumped from 496 in 2007 to 1,070 in 2015. This year, Glastonbury, which now has 75,000 more attendees than it did in 2000, sold out in 25 minutes, compared to one hour and 27 minutes in 2014. At festivals, music is the priority, not the afterthought. You bring your own beer, queues are minimal and you don’t feel your every move is under suspicious scrutiny. Wisely, festival organisers know overbearing regulations won’t do a thing to stop drug use, but it will stop their ticket sales. Now, we just need London authorities to realise the same. Over to you, night czar; make it rain.

MORE FROM GQ

For these related stories, visit GQ.co.uk/magazine

Who Can I Vote For Now? (George Chesterton, January 2017) Not Your Average BoJo (Guto Harri, December 2016) Trump-ageddon! (Mark Singer, November 2016)


CRAIG GREEN

A / W Collec tion 2016 Set _01. Mint craig-green.com


E S S E N T I A L W R I ST AT T I R E

R R P £85 www.accurist.co.uk


THE

Gilded cage: Ruby Rose broke out in prison drama Orange Is The New Black

RISING S TA R

KEYED UP It’s action stations in 2017 for Orange Is The New Black’s Ruby Rose RUBY Rose always knew she was different. In primary school art classes, the other children liked Van Gogh or Michelangelo, but she was more interested in Jean-Michel Basquiat. “The school said he wasn’t suitable,” she remembers. “I felt like a rebel.” After Orange Is The New Black made her name, the 30-year-old Australian actor (2015’s fifth most searched-for person online – hence her 9.2 million Instagram followers) starts the year kicking ass in sequels to John Wick and xXx. “Gym with Vin Diesel is competitive,” she says. “He did push-ups with me on his back.” Rose has a goal: to prove she can’t be typecast. “Some people won’t cast me as a wife or girlfriend because of the way I look or my sexuality [Rose came out as gay aged 12], but I wouldn’t change anything,” she says. “Everyone has their own journey.” Kevin Perry xXx: Return Of Xander Cage is out on 20 January. John Wick: Chapter Two is out on 10 February.

gq intel rose is also an established house dj and has toured with avicii. “we had many rock‘n’roll moments,” she says. “i love music and it’ll always be a big part of my life.”

Photograph Todd Barry

E D I T E D BY

CHARLIE BURTON

homeland

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design archetypes

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capitol records

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joe fox

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oscars buzz

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bring your ’a’ game no 26

THE DIAL CHECK Watch Club's Dan Pizzigoni on how to spot a restored dial

EMOTIONAL INTELLIGENCE

THE

TV

The new series of Homeland moves to New York, but some things never change. Here’s what every series is made of...

SHOW

Timeliness The show always taps into the news cycle. Though even Homeland couldn’t predict a Trump win – the new president in series six is a woman.

Still not knowing who the darn CIA mole is Remember this one? Well it’s been hanging over the show now for five series. We imagine that you, like us, thought it was Saul. Don’t bank on this getting resolved in series six.

The walking dead 1 First things first, make sure the dial looks as old as the case. White dials, for instance, tend to develop a gentle, opal look as they age.

Characters are often sent to their doom only to bounce back soon after. This series, the Lazarus figure is Peter Quinn.

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Hollywood hacking

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Most espionage takes place over computer systems, which isn't at all camera-friendly. The solution? Employ ultra-fast typing and flash up complicatedlooking pages of text. 3 Examine complicated areas. On a chronograph, the places where sub-dials intersect with the main dial can look messy on a refurbished timepiece.

Stupidly sensationalised bipolar disorder The show has received flack for falling into the obvious “she’s unstable but she’s brilliant” cliché with Carrie, in an effort to drive the plot and make sense of its undulations.

Carrie the terrible spy If you act in breach of the law, get your assets killed, sleep with your boss, sleep with the enemy (then aid his escape) and fail to detect anti-CIA bomb plots – well, you’re not much of a spy. Expect more of the same.

THE INSTA CLASSICS

Homeland series six starts this month on Channel 4

Happy-snap your Instagram feed by following the ’grammers behind three posts we hit “like” on this month.

4 Are there paint flecks on the batons? Uh oh...

5 If you are able to dismantle the watch, check to see whether there are notches cut into the side of the dial at the 12 or three positions. A classic sign of restoration.

@BEIGECARDIGAN

@ B OYW I T H N OJ O B

@ F * * *J E R RY

Illustrations Jonathan Allardyce; Dave Hopkins Photographs Capital Pictures; Eyevine; Getty Images; LMK Media; Rex/Shutterstock; World Ski Awards

2 Most original dials are printed, but restored dials are often done by hand. Look for typeface inconsistencies, human errors and, simply, smudging.

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THE STYLE VLOGGER

HOW TO

SPOT... Spectacles by Snapchat

GQ’s Jonathan Heaf presents a guide to identifying him in the wild

The new Google Glass. More than an early adopter, the style vlogger is so ahead of the digital curve he’s practically a human meme.

HISTORY is only what we record. Whatever the era, whether amid conflict or peace, one hopes there will always be someone with a camera or a pen, making a true record of events. Bearing witness. So, as the Nothing says “rebel” like a pithy T-shirt voiceless victims of the Syrian war had journalist slogan. Dover Street Marie Colvin, and the brave servicemen cut down Market is a good place on Omaha beach on 6 June 1944 had photographer to start, as is Dad’s Robert Capa, so too the peacocks of Savile Row and wardrobe. the style tribes of Peckham, the althleisure aesthetes of Toronto and the dandies of Kuala Lumpur in 2017 have this: the style vlogger. What a time to be alive. The style vlogger, if you didn’t know, is someone who makes accessible, freewheeling, often ludicrously engaging short videos either on their smartphones or on a handheld camera. The subject of these videos? “How to shine your shoes like Tom Hiddleston”; Athleisure Wear “How to wear a Vetements oversized hoodie to A vlogger must be a client pitch”; “How to gatecrash a Dior couture part free-runner, part show using only a dongle and a black bin liner”. paparazzo; besides, wearing a suit feels A good style vlogger will smash through fashion’s distinctly analogue. mythology using a combination of way too smiley, straight-to-camera commentary and a wardrobe that’s garish, high-street and fast. Although style vloggers were frowned upon by the fashion elite a few years ago, they are now well and Common Projects truly ensconced on the “frow”. It’s little wonder. With If indie kids have their youth combined with warm, fuzzy naivety, the scuffed Converse, then style vlogger is the perfect antidote to the cool cliques vloggers have of yesteryear’s style mafia. box-fresh Common Projects. Pretty, pastel To the quivery “snowflake” who can’t even get perfection for the a retweet from Brooklyn Beckham let alone an selfie generation. internship on the style desk of the New York Times, style vlogging is their gateway into a world previously shut off. Brands, too, are waking up to these snapchatting, fashion documentarians: with one deft quip to the camera phone, a couple of social posts and a “Parpetua” Insta-filter, the style vloggers can reach millions of potential future influencers. So, what to do Internet killed the video star: if you see one? Suppress any desire to mock and smile The style vlogger is dedicated to – you’re making history baby, yeah! documenting good-looking lives

Ironic ‘It’ T-shirt

Vocab “Dead“ = “slays“; “ship“ = “relationship“; “suh“ = “wassup“; “trash“ = “tasteless“; “fr“ = “for real“.

Electric skateboard Forget hoverboards that self-destruct, e-boards are the only way to go from raw juice bar to “frow”.

PERSONS OF INTEREST

SNOW BUSINESS

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The Woman Who Can...

The Man Who Can…

The Woman Who Can…

The Man Who Can…

The Man Who Can…

It’s Verbier season! These are the five well-connected insiders you need to add to your black book for the skiing months. Emily Wright

Get you to the untouched powder. Bella Seel For the slopes that no one else knows, hook up with this freerider. alsprivate.com

Rent you the Alpine Estate. Duncan Robertson Got your heart set on a tough-to-book property? Robertson manages them. brambleski.com

Prepare you for an endurance event.

Secure your table for 12 at Farm Club. Rory Hoddell The ultimate fixer to have on the ground – Sir Richard Branson is a client. camelsnow.com

Put you back together again. Leanne Brown The go-to masseuse for world-class skiers and boarders. massage1936.com

Tom Avery World record holding arctic explorer; trusted by the best. skiverbierexclusive.com


THE

DESIGN ARCHETYPE

‘PULL TO REFRESH’ Alice Rawsthorn dissects the mobile mechanism that changed the world The vinyl revival remains in rude health. Dylan Jones selects an overlooked classic to grab when you’re flicking through the crates... MARTIN Fry’s group pre-empted the entire Eighties New Pop Deal, creating a thoroughly convincing pop property with a light sense of irony – earnest backing vocals, gold lamé suits, and snarky lyrics. The only problem was that their first album, The Lexicon Of Love (1982), said it all, and every release that came in its wake was either reductive or arch (although much of their inactivity during the Eighties was in part due to Fry’s ill-health). On “The Look Of Love” when Fry sings, “Sisters and brothers, should help each other,” you just know his tongue is firmly in his cheek. Once he’d done it, he’d done it. “It was like disco, but in a Bob Dylan way,” said the record’s producer,

EVERY day, millions of people perform the same gesture of placing a fingertip on the top of a phone or tablet screen, and tugging it down to retrieve new emails, texts and Instagram posts. “Pull to refresh”, as this mechanic is known, has become as familiar as flicking a light switch – few of us give it a second thought. Yet it is a design masterpiece in its own right, and a true archetype, with its own particular history. “Pull to refresh” was designed by the US software developer Loren Brichter in 2008 for Tweetie, one of the first apps to adapt Twitter for smartphones. A challenge for anyone designing phone software is to make the most of limited space. Brichter wanted users to refresh their feeds, but was loath to clutter their screens with another symbol. His solution was to design a way of activating the function through gesture, rather than a visual emblem. The physical action he chose appears simple, yet is perfectly suited to its function; it makes you feel as though you are physically retrieving something from the screen. Despite Twitter owning the patent on “pull to refresh”, it has been introduced to many other applications – and its impact extends beyond the digital realm. Our experience of stroking and pulling screens has made us more attuned to the subtleties of touch in other areas of design. No accident then that Demna Gvasalia’s first Balenciaga menswear collection, which came out in June, explored how clothes feel when worn. Designers are now scrambling to master design’s tactile qualities. Luckily there is plenty of new research available: more has been published on the science of touch in the last ten years than in the entire preceding century.

Trevor Horn, although it was much better than that. With “The Look Of Love”, “Poison Arrow”, and “All Of My Heart”, ABC managed to create totally modernsounding records that celebrated the idea of pop itself. If The Buzzcocks’ Pete Shelley had written songs for Motown they may have sounded like this. In a way, ABC were doing what Roxy Music did ten years previously, which was create a shiny pop environment, slightly at odds with the times. The defining quality of their music is its intelligence, driven by a desire to elevate the pop genre, rather than turn it into a commodity. They released The Lexicon Of Love II a few months ago, but this is the banger.

AUGMENT YOUR LIFE: Three substitutions you need to make this month Swap out: Believing in 4-2-3-1

Swap out: Talking to Siri

Swap out: Eating at Franco Manca

echo Swap in: Talking to Alexa Everyone has Siri, but no one uses it because you look deranged asking your phone questions in public. The home is the ideal spot for voicerecognition AI, and the hands-free Amazon Echo is the assistant you never knew you needed. For everything, just shout, from music to weather to calling yourself a cab. The future is here, and it’s very lazy. £150. amazon.co.uk

32 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

Swap in: Believing in 3-4-3 When Chelsea lost 3-0 to Arsenal at the end of last September, they seemed just as rudderless as they had been under José Mourinho the season before. A quick formation change later to an unconventional 3-4-3 – one that manager Antonio Conte has admitted was more luck than judgement – and the next six League games saw 17 goals scored, none conceded. Expect other managers to follow suit.

Swap in: Eating at L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele When it comes to pizza, it’s fair to say the folk at L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele know their onions. The most famous pizza parlour in Naples, run by a family whose pizza heritage goes back to 1870, is a mecca for pizza lovers everywhere. So, rejoice, because they’re coming to London, with a branch in Stoke Newington. Stuart McGurk 125 Stoke Newington Church Street, London N1. @damichelelondon


THE

ART BOOK

LET’S HEAR IT FOR THE HIT MEN Capitol Records charts 75 years in music with unseen photographs t hasn’t always been plain sailing for Capitol Records, but it has been quite the trip. Set up in 1942, the label dragged the American music industry from New York to Los Angeles, differentiating itself from its competitors with a modernist building resembling a stack of vinyl, and innovative strategies such as supplying free records to radio stations. It fast became a major player, resurrecting the career of Frank Sinatra in the Fifties, and functioning as The Beatles’ US label in the Sixties. The latter was a stroke of good fortune – Capitol would not have taken on The Beatles were it not the pleas of Brian Epstein – but the label also had its fair share of ills. In later decades, Capitol experienced layoffs, even selling the tower, but recently bounced back under new owners Universal with acts such as Beck and Sam Smith. Taschen’s 75 Years Of Capitol Records charts its ups and downs in photographs, including these three never-before-seen images from Capitol’s archives. CB 75 Years Of Capitol Records (Taschen, £99.99) by Barney Hoskyns is out now.

I  Radiohead (1993) by Karen Mason-Blair

Illustration Dale Edwin Murray Photographs Shutterstock; Taschen

In the Nineties, Capitol made a beeline for alt-rock pioneers. Having established Radiohead with “Creep”, Capitol was treated with suspicion by the band until the label took the bullish decision to make “Paranoid Android”, with its 6:27 running length, the lead single from 1997’s OK Computer. For promotion, the label sent out Aiwa Walkmans with tapes of the album that you couldn’t remove. Capitol gained a reputation for risk-taking.

Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra (Capitol Tower Studio B, October 1958) by Ken Veeder By 1952, Frank Sinatra had fallen from grace, his music was out of fashion and he couldn’t sell a record. Capitol put him back on course; releasing a run of hits including “Young At Heart”. “His music got richer with the camaraderie at Capitol,” says his daughter Tina Sinatra.

Gene Vincent (1958) by Ken Veeder Having passed on Elvis, Capitol was persuaded to sign Gene Vincent – although he was perceived as less sophisticated than the label’s stalwarts, such as Sinatra – to give themselves some skin in the rockabilly game. He never replicated the success of his classic, “Be-Bop-ALula”, but stayed with Capitol until 1961.

FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 33


THE

ARTIST T O WAT C H

STREET WRITER From the pavement to The Ritz, meet A$AP Rocky’s soulful collaborator IN 2014, Joe Fox was homeless and busking in London's Soho when he tried to sell A$AP Rocky a mixtape. They struck up a rapport. “Within a couple of days he said we’d make an album,” remembers Fox. “Then it happened.” Rocky put Fox up in his hotel suites, although it came at a price. “We’d go back and he’d have a girl over. I’d have to stand in the hallway of The Ritz for half-an-hour,” says the 25-year-old, laughing. “Then the girl would leave and I’d go and sleep at the end of the bed.” After debuting on last year’s At.Long.Last.A$AP, Fox is now working on a record of his own, influenced by songwriters including Ray Davies and Kurt Cobain. He’s out in the cold no longer. KP Acoustic Alley Sessions Part 2 is out in February.

gq intel when he was 17, fox wrote his first song, “this love”, about an exgirlfriend. “she’s a really famous model now,” he reveals. “so i see her face everywhere.”

Boom and busk: Singer-songwriter Joe Fox was performing in Soho when he met A$AP Rocky


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STYLE GUIDE

AN OFFICE AND A GENTLEMAN

Elevate your personal presentation skills with highperforming touches that do the hard work for you NEWSFLASH: you can only rotate your office outfits for so long. Eventually, those clothes – and those styles – will look as tired as a banker after a closing dinner. So seize the moment! While the year is still young, refresh your wardrobe with some of these essentials. There’s something for every workplace, no matter how formal the dress code... CB 14

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Photographs Phil Knott; Jody Todd

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16 O 1 Umbrella by London Undercover, £75. londonundercover.co.uk O2 Jacket by Canali, £1,050. canali.com O3 Briefcase by Hackett, £460. hackett.com O4 Tie by Alexander McQueen, £95. At matchesfashion.com O5 Shirt by Gant, £95. gant.com O6 Shoes by JM Weston, £490. jmweston.fr O7 Rucksack by Paul Smith, £795. At matchesfashion.com O8 Watch by Swatch, £127. swatch.com O9 Cologne by Gucci, £49. gucci.com O10 Pen by Mont Blanc, £590. montblanc.com O11 Cardholder by Aspinal, £50. aspinaloflondon.com O12 Jumper by Gant, £150. gant.co.uk O13 Suit by Boss, £430. hugoboss.com O14 Scarf by Tom Ford, £420. At Harrods. harrods.com O15 Pouch by Smythson, £325. smythson.com O16 Notebook by Valextra, £162. At matchesfashion.com O17 Cufflinks by Tateossian, £162. At matchesfashion.com O18 Belt by Russell & Bromley, £95. russellandbromley.co.uk


UP THE ACADEMY

THE

AWARDS

RULES

Even if you can cut through your jet lag with a bread knife, sleeping across three chairs in the business lounge is completely unacceptable. Instagram wing shots. Stop it. You’re a grown-up. The complimentary glass of champagne and a gin and tonic mid-way through is your limit. Unless you’re on holiday, when an 8am sharpener is perfectly acceptable. Hell hath no fury like the American immigration official. Play tough at your peril. Men who display frequent flyer membership cards outside an airport or aircraft are just the worst. Matt Jones

7

Jane Fonda

(1934, Morning Glory/1968, Guess Who’s Coming To Dinner)

There’s always one moron who insists on keeping the window blind open during a night flight, forcing everyone in a three row radius to wake up at the first hint of sunlight. If you’ve not noticed that moron, you are that moron.

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Vivien Leigh

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Ingrid Bergman

(1983, Sophie’s Choice/2012, The Iron Lady)

Put your phone in flight safe mode. Yes, we know you can send off an email as you’re taking off and the plane won’t fall out of the sky, but just play along.

Natalie Portman won Best Actress in 2011 for Black Swan and will likely storm it this year for Jackie, making it six years between her Oscars. Others have had to wait far longer for a double…

(1945, Gaslight/1957, Anastasia)

You’re not allowed to work in first class and you aren’t allowed to hold impromptu meetings in business (no, the galley is not an acceptable meeting place either). If you’re in economy, do whatever it takes to get to the other side.

Natalie Strikes Back

(1940, Gone With The Wind/1952, A Streetcar Named Desire)

NEVER wear the complimentary “sleep suits”. Dress as you wish to be found in the wreckage.

IT’S that time again, when in the midst of apocalyptic terror, environmental disaster and financial uncertainty, our silver-screen idols tell us who they’re wearing then lift golden mini-men to resounding applause. Let’s start the show!

(1972, Klute/1979, Coming Home)

AIR TRAVEL Fly like a boss with GQ's masterclass in sky-high manners

With the 2017 Oscars race in full swing, keep up with GQ’s vital statistics for the most divergent year yet

SHOW

Meryl Streep

AND THE AWARD FOR MOST HIRSUTE ACTOR GOES TO...

Ranking the top contenders by facial hair

The all-singing, all-dancing, all-rounder front-runner Next to Scorcese's Silence, Damien Chazelle’s La La Land is a favourite to clean up. Let’s examine its winning ingredients...

25%

Emma Stone! Critics, including us, are calling it her best work.

13% Manchester By The Sea A healthy showing of stubble on Casey Affleck

Sully A slab of upper-lip decor on Tom Hanks.

44%

Old Hollywood! Although set in present-day Los Angeles, it’s a rose-tinted, nostalgic ode to the way things were. Remind you of The Artist, anyone?

Joy! Sometimes Hollywood wants a social-issue drama. Sometimes, it seems to want something unashamedly crowd pleasing... 6%

12%

Katharine Hepburn

GQ’s Alternative Oscars Worst Performance Us! The 2017 Awards will have little visibility from the Brits. Hugh Grant might get a nod for Florence Foster Jenkins, and Felicity Jones might be rewarded for A Monster Calls. But generally, the British aren’t coming this year. Most Controversial Comeback Mel Gibson’s Hacksaw Ridge proved that, whatever bile comes out of your mouth, if you throw enough well-executed gore at the multiplexes you just might be forgiven. Most Specific Trend Interracial marriages were hot potatoes this Oscars season, with both Amma Assante’s A United Kingdom and Jeff Nichols’ Loving mixing true-life politics with true-life drama. Most Unlikely But Possible Nod If Sausage Party gets a Best Animated Feature nom, it would be a first for films in which a taco performs cunnilingus on a bun. We’re pretty sure.

Fences A distinguished goatee on Denzel Washington.

Musical! Think it’s not a Best Picture genre? Consider these: My Fair Lady, Gigi, West Side Story…

Darkness! There is some grit, some bitterness, some reality, which cleverly levels the film. Though even there, the light gets in.

Lion A very handsome beard on Dev Patel.

Always the bridesmaid Silence A wild monstrosity on Andrew Garfield.

Amy Adams has previously been nominated for five Oscars – and won nil – and has a chance of clocking up another two noms this year, for Arrival and Nocturnal Animals. Will she finally clinch a gong? Probably not, because Natalie Portman.

The old faithful Could it be a hat-trick for the Keatonaissance? In a word, no – Michael Keaton’s McDonald’s biopic, The Founder, is unlikely to win Best Picture, as his films Spotlight (2016) and Birdman (2015) did, but he could snag a Best Actor nod. Alex Godfrey

36 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

2015 Spotlight

2016 Birdman

2017 The Founder


THE

SPORTS LUXE 2.0

OPENING Live your life like a champion at the (DISSEC TE D)

world’s first boutique boxing gym

BXR London is the new 12,000 sq ft, Anthony Joshuabacked boxing gym where Mark Ronson and Eddie Hearn are on the committee and Victoria’s Secret models go to train. Here’s a look inside. Kathleen Johnston 74-76 Chiltern Street, London W1U. £1,500 pcm. bxrlondon.com

Floor 1

Functional training: flip tyres, push a sledge, hang off rings, slam a wall!

Strength training equipment by Hammer Strength

Cardio zone

Free weights by Eleiko

Vintage punch bags

16ft x 16ft boxing ring

20 ft murals of Sugar Ray Leonard, Joe Frazier and Muhammad Ali by Ben Slow

Floor 2

Illustration Son Of Alan Photographs Allstar; Eyevine; Getty Images; LMK Media

Sauna

Steam room and ice basin

Joe & The Juice: Ring-Side Lounge

Cardio studio Strength studio

BXR Clinic, overseen by Anthony Joshua’s physician, offering osteopathy, physiotherapy and sports massage

Technique studio

FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 37


IF THE SPIRIT IS WILLING

THE

DESIGN Introducing the life and soul of your next house party: U P D AT E

THE

RUMOUR MILL

by alex wickham CRITICS claim Donald Trump’s new chief strategist Steve Bannon is a far-right white supremacist. An interview carried out by Bannon’s website with Nick Griffin has disappeared from the internet. Perhaps the BNP are a step beyond the pale even for presidentelect Trump.

a beautifully formed drinks cabinet that sets the bar high

There was a time when the drinks industry despaired at how reluctant we all were to make cocktails at home. Now, however, domestic mixology is fast gaining popularity – part of the cultural undertow, perhaps, that’s responsible for the return of vinyl. The only question is: how serious are you? There’s a world in which you simply set aside a little space on your bookshelf, hunt out some coupes in a thrift store and

gq intel the trend right now is towards two-piece cocktail shakers, as they open easily and allow for greater movement inside. we like the copper mezclar (pictured, £20. barmans.co.uk).

The morning after the US presidential election, Ukip's Gawain Towler sent his son to school wearing a red hat emblazoned with the words “Make Britain Great Again”. How did it go down? “Four fights and the head of year confiscated the hat,” recalls a proud father. Tory MP Anna Soubry has been one of the most effective pro-EU voices since the referendum, but her opposition to Brexit is causing problems in her Broxtowe constituency, which voted to leave. Some local Tories even want her deselected. Simon Danczuk was suspended by Jeremy Corbyn for sexting a dominatrix, but might the Labour leader regret removing the whip? Danczuk is considering standing in Rochdale as an independent. He's confident he'd be able to take on a Labour candidate and, ahem, give them a spanking.

The glass castle: Splinter Works’ Dime cabinet is so-called because it resembles a spinning coin

stock a capsule collection of bottles (the bare necessities: whisky, gin, vodka and rum). Alternatively, you could invest in a drinks trolley or, our preference, a handsome cabinet. The Dime cabinet by Splinter Works, fashioned from walnut and sycamore, is constructed with segments that glide open to reveal sufficient storage to service a drinks party. Welcome to the new best bar in town: your place. splinterworks.co.uk


A TH I N G YO U

DIDN'T KNOW ABOUT

‘LET’S DISCUSS LIVE’

THE

Natural instinct: The interior of healthy eating emporium The Gate Seymour Place

LONDON SCENE

TRY THE HEALTHY OPTION It’s a given: in January you have to drink less and eat better. Fortunately, the raft of new clean-eating restaurants don’t feel abstemious...

Farmacy

M Victoria Street

“Plant-based restaurant” – not a phrase that exactly lures you in. But this Notting Hill dining room is the #cleaneating place of the moment. Farmacy offers virtuous versions of typically unhealthy treats such as nachos and burgers.

London’s first totally gluten-free fine dining restaurant by ex-Gaucho MD Martin Williams. The Japanese-inspired menu celebrates raw vegetables, protein – from sustainable sushi to a wagyu short rib – and “superfood” grains.

The vibe: Very LA. Twinkling lights and decor that’s all natural, with wooden furniture and plenty of foliage.

The Gate Seymour Place

Rawligion

Squirrel

The famous vegetarian venue opened its third venture last month with an emphasis on (predictably) healthy eating. This is veggie cuisine that even voracious carnivores can get their teeth into.

Billed as a “health haven”, Rawligion provides full ingredient lists for all dishes – most of which are, you guessed it, raw. As well as guilt-free breakfast, lunch and dessert, it offers juices and botanical “elixirs”.

Co-founded by Bunga Bunga’s Charlie Gilkes and Duncan Stirling and their respective wives, Anneke and Zoe, Squirrel is an all-day healthy concept that would appeal to men. The staff are all trained in nutrition.

The vibe: The luxurious, sleek interior, open kitchen and night-out soundtrack make it a great date venue.

The vibe: Refined but relaxed. The food is set off by a minimalist, bright interior, making the dishes the stars.

The vibe: You might scoff at the broccoliadorned walls (seriously) but the food itself will make you, well, scoff.

The vibe: The interior is themed as a treehouse and has a service counter carved from a 21ft-long oak tree.

The healthy dish you’d actually like to eat: The house pizza with cashew cheese and roasted vegetables (£13); there's an organic wine list if your regimen permits.

The healthy dish you’d actually like to eat: The classic bento box: a combination of pork belly bao, chicken katsu curry, sashimi and edamame (£17).

The healthy dish you’d actually like to eat: The wild mushroom risotto cake with creamy cep sauce and truffle-lemon dressed rocket (£15).

The healthy dish you’d actually like to eat: The Lebanese box, a set of 18-hour dehydrated falafels with a side of tabbouleh and lemon tahini dip (£3.95).

The healthy dish you’d actually like to eat: Miami Rice – chipotle beef, brown rice, lentils, spinach, broccoli, red cabbage and carrots (£7.95). Kathleen Johnston

74 Westbourne Grove, W2. farmacylondon.com

70 Victoria Street, SW1. mrestaurants.co.uk

22 Seymour Place, W1. thegaterestaurants.com

3 Tottenham Street, W1. rawligion.co.uk

11 Harrington Road, SW7. wearesquirrel.com

IT’S always the emails that get you. Easily forwarded, written in haste and always archived, emails are a gift for investigators or opponents who want an easy career kill. Want proof? Just ask Hillary Clinton. If you want to keep a secret, the last thing you do is put it in an email. So how do those in power continue to operate? Goldman Sachs employees thought they had figured it out when they developed a secret language to avoid the prying eyes of regulators seeking to assign blame for the biggest financial crisis in history. In 2010, hundreds of internal Goldman Sachs emails were released by a Senate subcommittee investigating the crisis. Most of them were sent when the market was crashing and employees were scrambling to divest themselves of their worthless investments. The emails revealed that staffers used a code word – “LDL”, standing for “let’s discuss live” – in order to prevent the paper trail from extending any further. If asked about selling prohibited products, an employee would reply, “OK, thanks. LDL in the morning.” If another asked, “Where are you going with this?” The response was “LDL”. Now, that acronym has spread into the wider business world and beyond. No surprise: if there’s one thing that stands out about the financial crisis, it's that few bankers went to jail. Conrad Quilty-Harper


MOVIE SEQUEL

THE HABITS OF A LIFETIME When Trainspotting came out in 1996, it showed the world that British cinema could do gritty. It also showed the world a whole host of new actors. So who has fared the best (and worst) since their big break two decades ago? Take a look at how the silver-screen careers of those about to reunite for the sequel, T2: Trainspotting (out on 27 January), have compared.*

CHOSE LIFE

actor

Ewan McGregor (Mark “Rent Boy” Renton)

Shirley Henderson (Gail Houston)

Kelly Macdonald (Diane Coulston)

Ewen Bremner (Daniel “Spud” Murphy)

CHOSE SOMETHING ELSE

Robert Carlyle (Francis “Franco” Begbie)

Jonny Lee Miller (Simon “Sick Boy” Williamson)

GQ

BAND O - M AT I C

Do something different this month; tune into these new sounds...

worldwide box office

twenty years in two sentences

$5.1bn

You don’t need to look at the stats to know that McGregor has had the best film career of the cohort, with roles in major commercial juggernauts: the Star Wars prequels, Black Hawk Down and, erm, the Dan Brown adaptation Angels & Demons. With the live-action version of Beauty And The Beast out in March, he’s not going to have cash-flow problems any time soon.

$2.6bn

Henderson has had a busy but not especially high-profile career, so how to explain the huge box office figure? Simple: the Harry Potter instalments Chamber Of Secrets and Goblet Of Fire, plus Bridget Jones’s Diary and its sequels – her most critically acclaimed project, the very meta Tristram Shandy: A Cock & Bull Story, took a mere $3 million worldwide.

$2.5bn

Macdonald is probably most famous for her TV role as Nucky Thompson’s mistressturned-wife on Boardwalk Empire, but she hasn’t fared badly on the silver screen either, with Harry Potter And The Deathly Hallows and Brave being the big cash cows. Not bad for a woman who was cast in Trainspotting with no prior acting experience – she was working in a bar in Glasgow and happened to see the open audition advertised on a leaflet.

$1.4bn

In the original theatre adaptation of Irvine Welsh’s novel, Bremner played the lead, Renton. Despite his demotion for the film, he worked alongside the star, McGregor, again in Black Hawk Down and Jack The Giant Slayer, and has credits in Snowpiercer and Pearl Harbor to his name – however, he still hasn’t quite cut through in the public imagination. Perhaps his appearance in June’s Wonder Woman will finally seal the deal.

$997m

Carlyle’s career took off quickly after Trainspotting, leading to a purple patch in the late Nineties with The Full Monty and the James Bond film The World Is Not Enough, in which he played the villain. While he has continued to work regularly – notably including an ongoing role in the TV drama Once Upon A Time – he has never quite hit the same heights.

$365m

Miller went into Trainspotting with quite a profile – he had just appeared in Hackers and was married to Angelina Jolie. Yet box office is not his most favourable metric. While his film career has rumbled along in second gear, he has done much better on television (most significantly, he has played Sherlock Holmes in the American TV show Elementary since 2012) and in the theatre (he had a star turn on stage alongside Benedict Cumberbatch in the National Theatre’s Frankenstein).

into

into

into

into

into

KANYE WEST?

NIRVANA?

WARPAINT?

JONI MITCHELL?

QUEENS OF THE STONE AGE?

try

try

try

try

CHILDISH GAMBINO

MENACE BEACH

CHERRY GLAZERR

JULIE BYRNE

try

Before he joins Star Wars (as the young Lando Calrissian) Donald Glover releases his third album of smooth, inventive rap.

Fronted by Liza Violet and Ryan Needham, the Leeds outfit use grunge riffs and earburrowing melodies to work out their millennial angst.

Two girls and a guy from LA making exhilarating fuzz-pop inspired by everything from social media to One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest.

A Seattle singersongwriter whose finger-picking guitar style and poetic lyrics, sung at little over a whisper, can hush a room.

FRANK CARTER & THE RATTLESNAKES The former Gallows frontman makes radiofriendly heavyweight rock. Kevin Perry

Awaken, My Love! is out now.

Lemon Memory is out on 20 January.

Apocalipstick is out on 20 January.

Not Even Happiness is out on 13 January.

Modern Ruin is out on 27 January.

*Source: the-numbers.com

THE


As Resident Evil expands into virtual reality, it’s time to raise hell with the most immersive, progressive and terrifying instalment yet

It’s kind of... real

“Kitchen” is a new virtual-reality vignette set in Resident Evil 7’s house, showing how VR brings a new immediacy to horror. You wake in the Bakers’ kitchen, tied to a chair, while an insect-like woman skitters around you in the shadows, before attacking you with a knife. A phantom pain shoots up your leg as the blade enters. Having seen how effectively VR can lend games a fresh edge, Capcom has made the entirety of Resident Evil 7 playable on PlayStation 4 using the headset.

The floors of the Bakers’ home are littered with slabs of meat. If these morsels, and the monsters that stalk the corridors, look unusually authentic, it’s because the development team built them from images of animal carcasses, which were scanned into the game using photogrammetry. While Ethan has a smorgasbord of weaponry to use against these abominations, Resident Evil 7 places as much emphasis on puzzles and exploration as it does muscular gunfights. Simon Parkin

HOAX QUIZ

OR

OR

1B. Poly book club Where? Oxford, United Kingdom. Open to polyamory, closed to philistinism? This regular meeting in the city of dreaming spires invites couples to bring a book but leave with much more.

2B. Cyborg fellatio café Where? London, United Kingdom. A Swiss entrepreneur hopes to open a sexbot café in Paddington. For £60, customers will get 15 minutes of simulated fellatio. Oh, and a coffee.

3B. Naked restaurant Where? Tokyo, Japan. The Amrita bans diners with tattoos or outside the ages of 18 to 60. You’ve got to have standards. EH

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5

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OR

the pow

3A. Blood bar Where? Texas, United States. Blood is rich in iron, and so greatly beneficial for your health. Blood Bar serves sterilised “red gold” in cocktails and black pudding.

is

Lately, going out has become increasingly outré. The question is: which example in each of these pairings is the hoax?

2A. VR porn café Where? Paris, France. Don a helmet, fire up a scene of your choice and lose yourself in what your younger self could only hope that the future had in store.

5

EATS OF THE IMAGINATION

1A. Beautiful people bar Where? Los Angeles, United States. Owned by the dating website Beautiful People, this members’ bar only admits entry to the aesthetically perfect.

Hoaxes: 1B, 2A and 3A

THE

e

You can step inside the game

WILTONS might be a founding father of the West End dining scene – it opened in 1742 – but after its refurb it looks positively fresh-faced. Worry not, that hasn’t come at the cost of what it has always stood for: an old-fashioned ideal of eating out, one that’s all about stiffly starched table cloths, impeccably polished glassware and the gentle clinking of the Old World Order (Tory grandees, corporate overlords, foreign royalty) enjoying perfectly cooked lamb cutlets or roast partridge. To anybody who hasn’t been, even with the knowledge that Wilton’s has relaxed its dress code, that might sound terribly stuffy. Anyone who has been, however, knows full well that it has its own special kind of verve. We defy even the most left-wing of left-wing firebrands not to find themselves seduced. CB 55 Jermyn Street, London, SW1. wiltons.co.uk

t he pow

Ignore Paul WS Anderson’s risible, cliché-riddled films (which, despite panning by the critics, remain the highestgrossing series based on a video game), Resident Evil, at its best, has the power to break convention. The fourth game in the series was a masterpiece of 3-D design, pioneering the over-the-shoulder perspective now used in every action game on the block. Resident Evil 7 uses a first-person perspective to bring the terror closer still.

LUNCH

is

It has a new perspective

A fridge dripping with unidentifiable meat. A TV locked on static. A crow rotting in a microwave. An attic busy with mannequins. After the world-hopping, bioterrorist grandeur of Resident Evil 6, the seventh game in the series marks a return to a more local, domestic brand of horror. The house, set on a plantation in the fictional town of Dulvey in the Deep South, once belonged to the Baker family, a hick dynasty that could have stepped straight out of Truman Capote’s In Cold Blood.

POWER

5

The frights are closer to home

THE

le

a puzzle game, its haunted mansions filled with locks requiring keys. The seventh game (out on 24 January) is a return to the series’ roots: you are Ethan, a man searching for his wife in an abandoned Louisiana house. Here’s why it’s worth playing, in four frames...

• ta b

THE Japanese horror series Resident Evil, which debuted in 1996, established a template that scores of games would follow. Although filled with familiar cinematic props – the lolloping zombies, the raggedy Doberman, the mad bees – Resident Evil has always played more like

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GAME

NIGHTMARES DO COME TRUE

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VIDEO

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6 – 9 January 2017 #LFWM

SS17 AGI AND SAM

LONDONFASHIONWEEKMENS.COM |


THE

ENTREPRENEUR PAG E

Kayvon Beykpour The CEO of live-streaming app Periscope, which just hit 200 million broadcasts, reveals what he has learned... Never idle EDUCATION

2001-2003

Tamalpais Middle School, San Francisco 2003-2007

Tamalpais High School, San Francisco Beykpour met his future Periscope co-founder, Joe Bernstein (left), at school in San Francisco

“My work ethic was inspired by a scolding I received when I was 12, getting lunch money by cleaning fire extinguishers for hospitals. I was twiddling my thumbs having finished my work and my boss said, ’If you have nothing to do, sweep the floor. Don’t just sit around.’”

2007-2010

BS Computer Science, Stanford University

Have some gumption

“I got my biggest break by relentlessly hanging out in the photo studio. Eventually, one of the main photographers was out for lunch when he was meant to be on a shoot, and I got to take his place.”

CAREER IN BRIEF

2006

Intern at the software company Autodesk 2007

Intern at ad agency Goodby, Silverstein & Partners 2007

Beykpour’s Terriblyclever developed apps for education purposes

Story by Eleanor Halls Photograph Instagram/@kayvz

Life’s too short not to travel

“‘F*** it, go travel’” was a colleague’s advice as I was debating whether to take time off. Travelling helped me build empathy with others.”

Co-founded app developer Terriblyclever. A standout product was iStanford, which helped students get the most out of campus life at the university 2009

Know when to let go

“At Goodby, and then at Terriblyclever, we moved from project to project very quickly, working for several different big companies without being able to sink our teeth into anything. I didn’t find it satisfying.”

Sold Terriblyclever to course-management giant Blackboard for $4 million 2011

Travelled around the world 2014

Co-founded Periscope 2015

Sold Periscope to Twitter for a reported $86m

Keep your ambition sky high

Beykpour with his friend Wyclef Jean in Cannes, France, June 2016

Beykpour (left) partnered with Stanford University to create campus life app iStanford

“When we see Periscope being used in places like Ferguson or the House Of Representatives, in Nepal after the earthquake, or in the Middle East during the migrant crisis... it validates our vision.”

Beykpour's gamble on Periscope paid off. Here he is (centre) in 2016 with Gigi Hadid, Joe Bernstein, Mario Testino and Karlie Kloss

Trust your gut

“We didn’t know if Periscope would work, but we didn’t care. We thought it should exist – that the world deserved a teleportation device.”


RED HOT RED

In an exclusive extract from the upcoming anthology Fill Your Heart: Writers On Bowie, GQ Editor DYLAN JONES blends fact with fiction in these recollections from the set of the 1983 cult-classic vampire film THE HUNGER. A year on from the death of the Thin White Duke, we remember a brush with gothic greatness

Photograph by DAVID BAILEY

Loving the alien: David Bowie in London, 1982, ahead of The Hunger’s release


THE HUNGER


‘I stood, watching Catherine Deneuve smoulder and David Bowie smoke’ perhaps. Normally, if he – if indeed it was “he” – had been caught unawares by suddenly hearing his own work in a public space, the man who looked suspiciously like Murphy could have been relied upon to pump out his chest, suck in his cheekbones and start catwalking like crazy, imagining he was sashaying down a runway surrounded by whippet-thin fashion editors perched precariously on little gilt chairs, but today he just hurtled towards the back of the room as fast as possible. ntrigued, I started to follow him, pushing through the dancers until I reached the dressing room door just to the side of the stage. As I did so I saw him empty his bag onto a metal trestle table, one that was probably usually covered in pork pies, juice boxes and sandwiches wrapped in clingfilm. Or, at other times, in poppers, tequila and lube. Right now, however, the table looked like the make-up counter in Boots – well, maybe what the make-up counter in Boots would have looked like if a skinny 24year-old pop star had just emptied a Gladstone bag full of beauty products all over it. It had all come tumbling out: the extra-long thick-lash mascara, the Maybelline nail polish, the Yves Saint Laurent Kouros aftershave, the Salon Selectives shampoo, the Sea Breeze astringent. It looked as though he’d been shoplifting for a week, not that he had, of course. Scattered across the desk was every possible example of rock star war paint imaginable: Mary Quant’s

Hot Tropic, YSL Beauté lipsticks, Revlon’s Touch & Glow loose powder, Max Factor’s California Face Gloss, a Rimmel azure shimmer eyeliner pencil, some Elizabeth Arden dusting powder, Estée Lauder’s Re-nutriv Rich Rich Lips, half a dozen Charles Revson blush sticks, Helena Rubinstein’s Brush-On Lipcreme, along with some (deep breath) Angel Face mousse foundation, pink cream blusher, Sugar Shine, moss green powder, lash builder, cornflower frosted cream eyeshadow, YSL Rive Gauche spray, Fontarel lid wash, Coty lip colour and a couple of bottles of No7 Skin Drink. What on earth was he up to? As I slowly closed the door and walked back to the dance floor, the director Tony Scott started shouting through a megaphone, and we all turned to face Mr Protein Pill and his voluptuous vampire squeeze. As I stood there, watching Scott shout, watching Deneuve smoulder and watching Bowie smoke, I couldn’t really believe my luck. I was six months out of college (BA hons Graphic Design at Saint Martins, zero prospects), 21, broke and, like Benjamin Braddock in The Graduate, a little confused about what I was going to do with the rest of my life. Since leaving art school I had briefly pursued a spectacularly unsuccessful career as a photographer, spent a couple of weeks working with Tim Roth as a cocktail barman in a Brixton nightclub called The Fridge, run an African nightclub in Soho with some friends (the Gold Coast Club, directly underneath that goth haven of fishnet tights and smudged eyeliner, the Batcave, a place where you could be guaranteed to hear “Bela Lugosi’s Dead” every night), and been flown to Japan for two weeks to model for a fashion designer called Takeo Kikuchi (I wore bondage trousers and was pushed off the catwalk by a female model on MDA). Mostly, however, I had been getting up at midday, eating heated-up leftovers and drinking too much. My life was not exactly distinguished. o supplement my dole money, a friend of a friend suggested I spend a while being a film extra. There was always lots of work around, he lied, and with overtime you could earn more than £100 a day. You got free food and the chance to muck around with the likes of Harrison Ford and Jessica Lange. “Cool,” I thought. “Yes, I’ll do exactly that.” And so I became a film star. Sort of. I joined the suggested agency, pledged my allegiance to the silver screen and called up every morning to see if there was any work. Which, mostly, there wasn’t. One of the first things I realised about being a film extra was that there were always more people than there were roles for (or, more precisely, more crowds than there were crowd scenes for) and that I had to be

T  

Photographs Alamy; Allstar; Collection Christophel; MGM; Pictoral Press Ltd; Zuma Press

he cigarette was the thing you noticed first, sticking out of his fist like a little torch, or indeed a little chopstick. Neither would have looked out of place in a Venn diagram of David Bowie bits and pieces. He had been espousing all things oriental for well over a decade now, and if you scanned the cover of Lodger – the record before the last one – you’d probably see a little torch there somewhere, lying on the floor maybe, near one of his hands, as Mr Protein Pill lay on the floor with a squashed up nose. He was puffing away on it, anyway, in between chatting to Catherine Deneuve, who was also leaning against the rail, although as we’d all been pointing out since we got there – to ourselves, not to her – Mr Protein Pill was leaning against it with a bit more conviction. After all, she’d already been in dozens of films, probably hundreds if you counted properly, and no doubt couldn’t care less about leaning against anything, whereas this was only Mr PP’s fifth feature film and he was going to get as much leaning in as possible. Anyway, what I suppose I’m saying is that his smoking was easily as good as his acting. But then he was smoking Marlboro Reds, so you would have expected him to be better at smoking those than Embassy Regal, for instance. Or Player’s No6. All around us, Peter Murphy’s Bauhaus were making one hell of a racket. In a few years they’d circle back and, by releasing their own version of “Ziggy Stardust”, finally admit they’d been massive Bowie fans all along, like everyone, like all of us, like me, in my shiny silver suit, walking up and down the stairs in Heaven that day trying to look as professionally nonchalant as Deneuve. But in the summer of 1982 they were still in their pupa goth phase. As “Bela Lugosi’s Dead” poured out of the club’s PA system, a man who looked suspiciously like Murphy himself scuttled by, carrying a Gladstone bag in a way you might hold a baby, perhaps for fear of dropping it. This was understandable, as the bag appeared to be overflowing with make-up products: tubes of foundation, eyeliners, powder-puff compacts, make-up brushes, transparent glass tubs of brightly coloured goo, some of which were falling out of his bag as he rushed across to the stage at the far end of the room. As he ran by, he glanced in my direction (admittedly I was staring) and he suddenly looked like a heavily made-up marionette, a clown already late for his own party. Although Bauhaus’ celebrated song was swirling around the room, forcing the hundredor-so bodies on the dance floor to flex and jerk, the man who looked suspiciously like Murphy seemed weirdly oblivious to it. Preoccupied,


THE HUNGER

Your soul is calling: David Bowie and Catherine Deneuve star as vampire lovers whose relationship spans two centuries in 1983’s The Hunger


THE HUNGER prepared for a lifetime of rejection and disappointment. Just like a real actor, in fact. As it was, I worked only a couple of times, but what glorious roles, what iconic movies! My biggest role was in the James Bond film Octopussy, which was shot somewhere in the not-so-wilds of north London. I didn’t exactly distinguish myself and spent most of the day chatting to Roger Moore’s stand-in. Around four o’clock the director, John Glen, actually started to film something, a scene where a halfdozen Latin American baddies try and shoot down Bond’s plane using an anti-aircraft gun. And your humble scribe was the extra chosen to fire the gun, swivelling around on a concrete dais and pulling back the trigger as though I did this sort of thing all day. It wasn’t an especially demanding role, but it meant that I joined a long-exalted line of evil Bond adversaries, including Oddjob, Dr No, Auric Goldfinger, Ernst Stavro Blofeld and Jaws. And, like George Lazenby after On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, that was pretty much the end of my film career. Until 1986, that is, when I had a comeback of sorts. A friend was a production manager on the appalling Bob Dylan/Rupert Everett movie Hearts Of Fire, and as they were filming for a few days in London, she asked me if I’d like to come down and see the car crash in person. On the day I visited they were filming a scene that involved a press conference and my friend asked if I’d sit in and pretend to be one of the hacks. We all had to perch there and ask His Bobness various questions, though the only thing I remember from the scene is the director Richard Marquand walking up to Dylan after every take and asking him if he could grunt with a little more conviction (Joe Eszterhas had written the grunts, after all). To his credit, Dylan complied and on several occasions even managed to string his grunts into three syllables. Unsurprisingly my name isn’t on the credits, though I bet Dylan wished his wasn’t either. Since then I have stayed away from movie stardom; as they say, the hours are long and you never know where you’ll be working from one week to the next. However, a few years

ago I nearly appeared in a Steve Martin film when I was on holiday in LA. I was sitting on the dunes at Venice Beach with a friend of mine, when an extremely flustered young woman came up to me brandishing a clipboard and a mobile phone. “I’m really sorry to have to ask you to do this,” she said, without any attempt at sincerity. “But you’re directly in shot, so could you go and sit somewhere else?” My first job, however, in the summer of 1982, was The Hunger, the Bowie/Deneuve/ Susan Sarandon vehicle about vampires and the undead and stuff. The LA Times called it, “Stylish! Explicit! It’ll take your breath away!”, though I can only assume that the reviewer owed the director money because it really is a pile of dreadful old tosh, even if it was fantastically exciting to a 21year-old who had worshipped Bowie from afar for more than a decade. (The movie also has one of the worst taglines ever seen. “Nothing human loves forever”, it proclaimed, bold as

‘I was a callow new romantic in a silver suit with a rock god brushing by’ brass, as though people were actually going to believe it.) This was to be my first exposure to the world of film. By chance, about a year earlier I’d been a dancer in the pop promo for Spandau Ballet’s “Chant No1”, filmed at London’s infamous Le Beat Route, but this was my first time “on set”. The scene we were to film took place in Heaven, the gay nightclub underneath the arches in Charing Cross. It was a club scene and my contribution consisted of walking down a flight of stairs as Bowie and Deneuve walked up them. You can still see me if you freeze the film at a certain point, although I realise that owning a copy of The Hunger is about as likely as anyone owning the collected works of Matt Bianco. There I am, a callow new romantic barely out

HOOKED TO THE SILVER SCREEN BOWIE’S BEST FILMS

of my teens, dressed in a bow tie and silver suit, with a drink in one hand and a cigarette in the other, standing around enigmatically as the messianic rock god brushes by me. Oh, and they cropped my head out.

B

rushing past Bowie would have been enough for me to brag about for months, but my anecdote moved up a gear around two o’clock that afternoon when Mr Space Face himself marched up to me and asked me for a light for his Marlboro Red. Now, this may not be up there with watching John Travolta rehearse the dance scene in Pulp Fiction or Robert De Niro asking you to help him with the mirror scene in Taxi Driver, but it’s the sort of thing that extras thrive on. Spend half an hour on a film set and you’ll hear that “Sean Connery told me this joke” (translation: I was standing behind him when he told the director the joke) or “Al Pacino practically congratulated me on the way I walked into the room” (ie, he didn’t even blink). Celebrity encounters, however fleeting, or indeed untrue, are the only currency extras have. Personally I was just thrilled to be in the same room as the bloke who’d sung “Life On Mars”, although I obviously wasn’t as excited as the man who looked suspiciously like Bauhaus’ Peter Murphy. An hour after Bowie had asked me for a light, after I had traipsed up and down the staircase over a dozen times, trying desperately to get my face in front of the camera, Scott called cut once more and the crew broke for tea. And just as he did, the man pushed his way up the stairs, stopped right in front of Bowie and then carefully dropped to his knees with outstretched arms, holding a little packet above his head as though he were making an offering to the gods. Unsure as to exactly what he should do, Bowie delicately picked up the box to have a closer look. What the man had been so desperate to show his idol was an eight-year-old box of a potent German hair dye called Red Hot Red, the same Red Hot Red that Suzy Fussey had used ten years before to turn his sandy Garboesque locks into the iconic flame-coloured cut seen on Top Of The Pops in July 1972. “Ha! It’s Ziggy!” said Bowie, doing his best David Niven. “I say, you haven’t got a light have you? Would be much appreciated.”

From humanoid alien to monstrous monarch, a countdown of his finest screen roles...

1. The Man Who Fell To Earth (1976)

2. The Last Temptation Of Christ (1988)

The role: Thomas Jerome Newton The part that inspired the Thin White Duke.

The role: Pontius Pilate The most chilling Pilate to grace the silver screen.

3. The Prestige

4. Basquiat

(2006)

(1996)

5. Labyrinth (1986)

The role: Nikola Tesla Under-appreciated performance, brilliant and otherworldly.

The role: Andy Warhol Warhol’s friends praised the portrayal (even if the critics did not).

The role: Jareth The Goblin King A truly great turn from Bowie – shame the film wasn’t as good.

Fill Your Heart: Writers On Bowie (out in the spring) pools some of our greatest writers and artists to show how David Bowie and his work have shaped us. The anthology, edited by Tiffany Murray, celebrates Bowie with creativity. Contributors include: Simon Armitage, William Gibson, Roddy Doyle, Lavinia Greenlaw, Rupert Thomson, Nick Harkaway, Dylan Jones, David Jones of Viz, Gary Kemp, Stella Duffy, Rory Maclean, Stephen May, Suzanne Moore, John Niven, SJON, Wesley Stace, Paul Burston, Peter Carpenter, Horatio Clare, Charles Fernyhough, Ryan Gattis, Niven Govinden, Tom Hickcox, Dr Sarah Hill, Daniel Rachel, Sarah Salway, Evie Wyld and Louisa Young. Preorder, support Unbound and pledge here: unbound.co.uk/books/bowie


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E D I T E D BY

‘I’m as cynical as you about badge engineering. If I hadn’t been able to design this boat, we wouldn’t have built it ’ Marek Reichman, Aston Martin

MATTHEW JONES


CARS Sea change: Developed by Aston Martin’s in-house motoring experts, the 37ft-long AM37 can reach 50 knots on open water

THE BIRTH OF NEPTUNE Aston Martin’s first offering to the sea gods is making waves with the same spirit and strength as the marque’s most famous road-farers STORY BY

Jason Barlow


CARS

FOUR DOORS GOOD

Maiden voyage: The AM37 in Monaco Harbour

with Reichman’s team to develop the design. Quintessence’s CEO, Mariella Mengozzi, is a veteran of Disney and Ferrari. “There are pros and cons, going into business with a start-up,” she admits. “But sometimes when you work with leading brands there are constraints. A new company will work a lot harder; you are more flexible and more committed.” The challenge was to create a powerboat that would double as a day cruiser, but the end result has excess fitness for purpose. Its backbone is carbon fibre, with an outer skin in fibreglass. The structure is vacuuminfused and uses epoxy resin bonding, another technique bequeathed to the project by the automotive side. It’s handmade, mostly created in-house, and the carbon fibre ensures rigidity. The AM37 weighs 7.5 tonnes “light ship”, although if the 800 litre fuel tanks are full it’s a lot heavier. It’s good for 50 knots (57mph), which is enough to get your attention if the “sea state” is unpredictable. The visual standout is the curved windscreen, a complicated structural

NEED TO KNOW The AM37 has a concave hull rather than a convex one, and an archway effect on the stern means that water exits the rear more efficiently. ENGINE 50 knots (57mph) PRICE £1.6 million CONTACT astonmartin.com

ALFA ROMEO predates Ferrari. In fact, Enzo Ferrari got his big break running the Alfa Romeo Grand Prix racing team in the Thirties. In 1947, he set up on his own and when Scuderia Ferrari beat Alfa Romeo not long after, Enzo wailed operatically, “I have killed my mother.” In 1980, he toyed with the idea of building a fourdoor saloon, but decided that Ferrari could never do such a dreary thing. Slide behind the wheel of the new Alfa Romeo Giulia QV, though, and you can feel the contemporary Ferrari DNA coursing through it in a way the old man would approve of. This isn’t coincidental. The new Giulia’s development was overseen by a hand-picked team of the company’s top engineers, many of whom had worked on various Ferraris, including the 458 Speciale, possibly the best Ferrari ever, and certainly possessor of one of the great engines of all time.

element that’s on the same continuum as Aston Martin’s cars. Aston called in some of its tier-one suppliers to ensure aesthetic and brand synergy, so the wood, leather and carbon fibre elements in the cabin are all peerless. The steering wheel is carved out of a single stainless steel billet. The digital instruments live behind a fully waterproof and heat resistant 15-inch HD screen. Three carbon panels can be manoeuvred into different positions above the main deck, or hidden away beneath the rear deck via a button or app. Even the anchor’s design is so new Quintessence is planning to patent it. Everything is bespoke, apart from the air vents, the microwave and fridge. There’s a 48-inch screen in the cabin, backed up by a server capable of storing 1,500 movies. Quintessence’s head of operations, Stefan Whitmarsh has worked for many industry big names, experience he backs up with a parallel career as an offshore powerboat racer. This particular AM37 is a priceless prototype, so he doesn’t go too nuts. We’re riding the waves a mile or two off Monaco at about 35 knots and two things are apparent: the boat handles chop and swell with ease and it feels remarkably stable. And even at a fair lick you don’t get wet. There are two 520bhp Mercury marine petrol engines, rather than an Aston V8 or V12, which sounds unromantic but means the AM37 can be serviced anywhere in the world. It’s also so over-engineered that it can handle way more power than it’s currently got, which is promising. The Aston team worked hard to give it car-like ergonomics, so the throttle control has a seamless weight to it, and the view ahead is vastly better than usual. As Reichman notes, “the better you can see, the more in control you feel, the faster you tend to go...”

And that makes this one of the greatest Alfas ever. The engine is a glorious twin-turbo, 2.9-litre, 503bhp V6, the chassis is a clever mix of aluminium and steel, and the roof and bonnet are made of carbon, as are the various bits of aerodynamic addenda. Like modern Ferraris, the Alfa’s steering is lightning-fast and inspires you to engage with the machine and the whole experience of driving in a way that increasingly anaesthetised modern cars don’t. Fun, I think, is the word. Even the eight-speed, dualclutch auto heightens the emotion rather than numbing it or dumbing it down. The Giulia QV is also as pretty a four-door saloon as anyone has managed in years, though the interior is patchy. That apart, what we have here is a car that channels Fellini and Ferrari in equal measure, and stirs some much needed soul into the business of getting from A to B. JB £59,000. alfaromeo.co.uk

Photographs Max Earey

hort of buying a football team or a private island, the motion of the ocean is what really separates the men from the boys. Russian coal and fertiliser big shot Andrey Melnichenko recently decided that, despite its magnificent Philippe Starck design, helipad and bombproof glazing, the 390ft Motor Yacht A wasn’t really cutting the mustard. So he’s upgraded to the 469ft Sailing Yacht A, whose triple carbon mast configuration and sail area equivalent to a football pitch give it unassailable bragging rights. That’s unless Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, president of the UAE, is in town: his yacht, Azzam, is currently the world’s longest at 590ft. Aston Martin’s £1.6 million AM37 – so called because it’s 37ft long – is a tiddler in the superyacht realm; in fact, your vessel needs to be twice that length and professionally crewed to qualify for the title. But in a world in which every premium brand dreams of lucrative life beyond its core business, an Aston Martin powerboat is a big statement of intent. Thankfully, it’s no opportunistic cash-grab; the AM37 is an all-new design from an all-new company, Southampton-based Quintessence Yachts. “I’m as cynical as you about badge engineering,” Aston’s chief creative officer, Marek Reichman, tells me. “If I hadn’t been able to design this boat, we wouldn’t have done it. We’ve had various approaches over the years, but Quintessence wanted to do it differently. It’s as important that this was a ground-up new boat as much as the AM-RB 001 is a new car and I didn’t want to compromise. It’s an opportunity to challenge the norms of an industry.” Dutch naval architect Bas Mulder drafted the AM37’s technical configuration and Quintessence worked


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E D I T E D BY

BILL PRINCE

SMALL WONDERS

Mark Hix recounts Britain’s chequered history of boutique stays, from makeshift must-visits to today’s refined, bijou bookings

WHAT was the first hotel to be branded with the word “ boutique”? Back in the mid-Seventies I stayed at (1) The Cleveland Tontine (near Northallerton, North Yorkshire, DL6 3JB. 01609 882671. theclevelandtontine.com) run by the McCoy brothers, which was tagged as boutique even then. The experience was like being in some sort of Bohemian theatre run by a rock band, with the swinging hotel sign half-hanging off the wall and the three McCoy brothers taking on different roles at the hotel. Breakfast was served on odd bits and pieces of bone china and there was a sign in my room asking guests to keep the shower curtain inside the tub so water didn’t leak into the bar. I loved it. However, the movement towards small, casual hotels based on simple luxury, with quirky style and no-fuss food, really got started in the early Nineties, when the late Bob Peyton’s (2) Stapleford Park (near Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire, LE14 2EF. 01572 787000. staplefordpark. com) became the go-to weekend retreat. Peyton had brought deep-dish pizzas to London with the Chicago Pizza Pie Factory, followed by the Chicago Rib Shack and Henry J Beans. They were theme restaurants that verged on fast food, but he got them right – and that’s why everyone was so intrigued by Stapleford. Norwich Birmingham Elsewhere, Ken McCulloch started the Malmaison group in 1994, about the same time that Robin Hutson and Gerard Basset opened Hotel Du Vin. These two small London country hotel groups played a big part in remoulding the British out-of-town hotel. From contemporary rooms to a more relaxed and modern dining experience, these places were more about a simple yet sophisticated lifestyle than fussy luxury. When Nick Jones opened (3) Babington House (near Frome, Somerset, BA11 3RW. 01373 812266. babingtonhouse. co.uk) in 1996 it became the place to go, not only for Soho House Manor from heaven members who wanted to escape London but for anyone who wanted a (from top): The Orangery, bar and stylish and relaxed weekend. Today, it’s a great, fun place and the perfect stately facade venue at which to marry off your children – or even yourself. The food of Nick Jones’ at Babington is British swaying towards Italian, with some produce Babington House


S

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Tack on: Hotel Tresanton keeps a 26ft yacht called Pinuccia to take guests on tours of Falmouth Bay

grown in its walled gardens. Breakfast is a casual, laid-back affair that often runs into the afternoons depending on how much use you made of the great communal bar the night before. Olga Polizzi, sister of hotelier Rocco Forte, opened (4) Hotel Tresanton (27 Lower Castle Road, St Mawes, Cornwall, TR2 5DR. 01326 270 055. tresanton.com) in 1998, and was the first to do a cool seaside boutique that still had a strong sense of tradition throughout. It’s a perfect spot. In the summer you can sit on the terrace overlooking the bay and tuck into local crab and grilled sardines or a delicious lobster linguine. Trust me, it’s hard to get a view like Tresanton’s on this part of the Cornish coast while dining and drinking so well.

HI

P

LIME WOOD AND THE PIG HOTELS

For me, Robin Hutson has made the most significant dent in casual lifestyle retreats, particularly in the South West, which suits me when I’m in need of an escape from Lyme Regis. Robin knows exactly how people want to spend a few days away: in a relaxed, unfussy and affordable environment that meets all their needs. Together with his wife, Judy, they have put an individual stamp on the interiors and the feel of Lime Wood, near Lyndhurst in Hampshire, and the Pig hotels (the first in Brockenhurst and now found throughout the West Country). The food at Lime Wood is simple Italian, from pizza to truffle pasta to risotto, and there’s a fantastic wine list, which, along with fishing, is one of Robin’s great passions. Lime Wood has a cookery school run by Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder alongside guest chefs, so you can gain a bit of culinary knowledge from your weekend, while woodland forages take you in search of seasonal mushrooms and wild plants. One of my protégés, James Golding, looks after all the Pig kitchens, as well as the curing and smoking of local ingredients, which is an

THE SEASIDE BOARDING HOUSE On the terraces: Dorset views from The Seaside Boarding House

Bay window (above, from top): Hotel Tresanton’s Lamorran suite and sun deck restaurant

Mary-Lou Sturridge opened my favourite watering hole in London, The Groucho Club, but when she finally started taking bookings for The Seaside Boarding House last year, it was after a painful few years of planning. It sits on the clifftop in Burton Bradstock, close to my home town of Bridport in Dorset, and over the years it’s had several incarnations. It was an old people’s home when Mary-Lou acquired it and she used to entertain friends there. The simple, stylish rooms offer clean seaside luxury, complete with cast-iron claw-feet bathtubs and views of the Jurassic Coast. Mary-Lou cleverly brought in the prodigiously talented Alastair Little to add a bit of sparkle to the menu. Little is a mine of food knowledge, and the menu at Boarding House has a good mix of world food and good local and seasonal ingredients. OCliff Road, Burton Bradstock, Dorset, DT6 4RB. 01308 897205. theseasideboardinghouse.com

Make an entrance: Lime Wood and its restaurant, Hartnett Holder & Co (left)

integral part of the menu. At Brockenhurst, mushrooms from the New Forest feature heavily in the autumn months, and all sorts of their dishes reflect the surrounding area. Hutson’s son Ollie tends the kitchen gardens where he grows all sorts of unusual fruits, vegetables and herbs that you can’t ordinarily buy from your local greengrocer. These gardens have become a synonymous feature of all the Pigs that have followed – The Pig On The Beach in Dorset, The Pig Near Bath, The Pig In The Wall in Southampton and The Pig At Combe in Devon. OLime Wood, Beaulieu Road, Lyndhurst, Hampshire, SO43 7FZ. 023 8028 7177. limewoodhotel.co.uk. The Pig Group. 0345 225 9494. thepighotel.com

THE GUNTON ARMS

Ivor Braka, art dealer extraordinaire, has lived in the gatehouse of Gunton Park in Norfolk for many years, gradually restoring the surrounding fields, returning trees and deer to the park. Somewhat neglected in the corner of the park was The Gunton Arms, so Ivor bought and sympathetically restored it, retaining the pub element so the locals can still enjoy a pint and a bar snack. There is something to be said for an establishment retaining a traditional feel of a local pub while also operating as a restaurant, and at The Gunton the menu boasts many dishes using the deer that live on the estate, from bar snack sausages and koftas to homemade pastrami and pies. Refreshingly, the rooms have no TVs, but be warned: although the locals may love the food and wood-fired indoor and outdoor barbecue of Stuart Tattersall (my ex-head chef at Hix Oyster & Chop House), some have taken offence at the art by the usual YBA suspects – of which Ivor is a big supporter – that’s dotted around the building.

Inn progress: Ivor Braka’s restoration project, The Gunton Arms OCromer Road, Thorpe Market, Norwich, NR11 8TZ. 01263 832010. theguntonarms.co.uk

Photographs Simon Burt Photography; Angus Pigott

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THE RESTAURANT

THE BAR

THE HOTEL

THE CLUB

THE PUB

THE RECIPE

THE ROUNDUP

THE BOTTLE

The big cheese: Michael Wignall (below) earned two Michelin stars before bringing his dishes – including this smoked ricotta with celeriac and nasturtium – to Gidleigh Park

Photograph David Griffen

THE MENU

Moor, please Gidleigh Park delivers its award-winning fare in the spectacular surrounds of deepest Devon’s wilds E D I T E D BY

BILL PRINCE & PAUL HENDERSON


THE HOTEL

Gidleigh Park, Devon Michael Wignall’s mansion in the moors sets its starry menu and storied hospitality against a green and pleasant landscape FORMERLY known as country house hotel-keeping’s best-kept secret (on account of the mile and a half of unmade track that leads to its sylvan setting on the banks of the River Teign near Chagford), chef Michael Caines undid all that off-grid glamour by winning Gidleigh Park its second Michelin star after only five years behind the pass. The Devon-born chef stayed 21 years, latterly as a partner of Gidleigh’s current owners – who’ve extended the property to include a signature suite (Dartmeet, complete with walk-in double-shower, sauna and steam room) as well as a standalone thatched cottage – before leaving in 2016 to open his own hotel near Exeter. In his place steps Michael Wignall, most recently of Surrey’s Pennyhill Park, who continues Gidleigh’s lengthy run as a true destination-dining spot. When GQ visited, the nights had drawn in and the drive had been drawn-out (avoid the M4/5 on a Friday night if you can possibly help it), but the

reception was warm, the gin and tonic expertly concocted and Wignall’s seven-course tasting menu rich with local produce and a-quiver with the kind of culinary dexterity that won Wignall two of his own stars at The Latymer. Breakfast is a must, if only to gird one’s loins for the day’s walking ahead: after all, you’ve come this far, so why not explore the surrounding countryside? The charming staff at Gidleigh will even pack a lunch for you. BP ORooms from £125 per person. Chagford, Newton Abbott TQ13 8HH. 01647 432367. gidleigh.co.uk

Park life: Poached and roast Norfolk quail

Southern hospitality: Gidleigh Park’s Michelin-starred restaurant; (right, above) loin and best end of hare; (right, below) the dining terrace

A river runs through it: Gidleigh Park sits on the bank of the Teign; (above) the view from the restaurant


TASTE small bites

THE ROUNDUP

Mezze business: Essex’s Turkish hot spots

Where

has been eating this month...

Sheesh

Pivaz

The Fat Turk

High Road, Chigwell, Essex, IG7 6QA. sheeshrestaurant.co.uk

238-240 Epping High Street, Essex, CM16 4AP. pivaz.co.uk

Warley Road, Brentwood, Essex, CM13 3AE. thefatturk.com

The setup: A labour of love for owner and chef Dylan Hunt, Sheesh is more an experience than a restaurant. Outside, a Grade II*-listed pub built in 1547; inside, a vast Essex fantasia of chandeliers, animal prints, statues, footballers and reality TV stars. Eat this: The food is exceptional. The shrimp saganaki with feta (£14) is indulgent without losing its rich, distinct flavours. The karisik shish (£20) manages that rarest of things under the grill: moist chicken and pink lamb, cooked perfectly. Drink that: The cocktail bar is as much for being seen in as drinking, but you could do worse than the Sheesh Martini (£10).

The setup: With smart, subtle décor and clever lighting, Pivaz (meaning “onion” in Kurdish), has brought some elegance to a cuisine usually defined by noise and energy. East this: As well as the kaleidoscopic mezze platters and traditional meat dishes – the beetroot tarator (£5) and hellim with basil oil (£6.75) were particularly good – Pivaz also offers a wider range of fish than most. Try the seafood casserole (£19) or lobster in garlic butter (£36). Drink that: A quirky and varied wine list is bettered by the five-star cocktails such as the Sage Pineapple Margarita or Gin Gin Situation (warning: may include gin), both £10.

The setup: An all-in-one destination, with a champagne bar and private room for pre- and post-food revelling – the relaxed dining is soothed further by the earnest service, even by the high standards of mezze restaurants. East this: Either the unorthodox but most welcome ribeye sis (£24.50) or the match-winning Surf ’n’ Turk (£24.75), which covered as many beasts as Planet Earth II. Cinnamon ice cream with Turkish delight and rose petal jelly (£5) is a thankfully light way to conclude. Drink that: An Old Fashioned with cherry brandy (£10) is a great way to fire up your grill. George Chesterton

FOLEY’S Ex-Palomar chef Mitz Vora has found a permanent home for his Middle East and Asian sharing plates pop-up. standout dish

Octopus with black sesame mayo, spicy pork mince, bok choy and sriracha.

23 Foley Street, Fitzrovia, London W1. 020 3137 1302. foleysrestaurant.co.uk

THE RECIPE

ELYSTAN STREET

Laal Maas by Rohit Ghai at Jamavar

Phil Howard returns after 25 years at The Square to breathe life into Tom Aikens’ ex-perch on Chelsea Green. standout dish

Rohit Ghai, the former executive chef at Gymkhana, is heading up a new fine-dining Indian restaurant, Jamavar. For a taste of what he’ll be cooking, try this fiery lamb curry favoured by Rajasthani royalty

Roast pollock with coco beans, bacon, hispi cabbage and sourdough crumbs.

43 Elystan Street, London SW3. 020 7628 5005. elystanstreet.com

Method OOver a high heat, add ghee to a deep cooking pan,

as well as bay leaves, cardamom and cinnamon. After a minute or two, add onions and cook until brown.

Photographs David Griffen

OAdd the lamb shanks and cook until they are golden

Ingredients (serves 6) O450g ghee or clarified butter O3 bay leaves O4 black cardamom pods O2 medium cinnamon sticks O2 medium red onions (finely sliced) O6 lamb shanks O1 tbsp ginger

O1 tbsp garlic paste OSalt, to taste O3 tbsp Rajasthani or

Kashmiri chilli paste O225g yoghurt O1 tbsp turmeric powder O1 tbsp coriander powder O4-6 garlic cloves, chopped OFresh coriander

and have an outer crust. Add the ginger and garlic paste and fry for another minute or two. Add the salt and chilli paste. Cook uncovered for another 3 mins. OCombine yogurt, turmeric powder, coriander powder

and salt to taste. Pour over the lamb and cook on a low heat for 90 minutes (or until cooked through). Alternatively, transfer to a oven-proof dish at 120C for 6 hours. OHeat 1 tbsp of ghee and add chopped garlic; brown and

add to the dish. Serve hot, garnished with fresh coriander. OJamavar, 8 Mount Street, London W1. 020 7499 1800. jamavarrestaurants.com

MACELLAIO RC Following its butchery-restaurant blueprint, the Union Street outpost offers prime cuts and trimmings. standout dish

60-day dry-aged Fiorentine steak infused with garlic, rosemary and salt.

Arch 24, 229 Union Street, London SE1. 020 3848 0529. macellaiorc.com


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Central Worcester

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Train London Paddington, from £31.50

Time: Two hours and 20 minutes

Drive: Ten to 15 minutes, £10-15

Among the ancient cathedral cities north and south of the M4, Worcester has a genuine sense of swagger – with new bars and restaurants a palpable sign of regeneration – and a fresh generation of entrepreneurs is creating a vibrant alternative to the more resolutely urban hot spots of the Midlands.

Above: The Firefly pub; duck, beetroot and sweet potato at The Wood Norton

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The Wood Norton hotel near Evesham

Above, from top: The No35 wine bar; dining at the rear of No35; a hot mezes platter at Bolero

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The Brick Room café and cocktail bar; (above) Bellini with thyme

(25 New Street, WR1 2DL. 01905 27534. alexanders bar.co.uk), a relaxed café and cocktail bar adjoining Alexander’s nightclub. For lunch you can fill up on bagels, sandwiches or antipasti platters, and by night you can work your way through the 30-plus whiskies and gins or an evolving cocktail menu including a Clover Club with red berry dust and a Bellini with thyme. Turn to (2) The Firefly (54 Lowesmoor, WR1 2SE. 01905 616996. @thefireflyworc), for Worcester’s version of Cheers. Since everybody knows your name, staff are happy to offer beers to taste and there are local cask and tap brews and international oddities to keep you guessing. Try the Yeastie Boys ale and the sweet Millionaire stout. These are pared with burritos and tacos or extravagant burgers, such as the pastrami Swiss. Worcester’s Achilles’ heel is its hotels, but this is easily overcome by a ten-minute drive through beautiful scenery to (3) The Wood Norton (Worcester Road, Evesham, WR11 4YB. 01386 765611. thewoodnorton.com). It’s a magnificent hotel built by émigré French royalty in 1897. There are 50 rooms overlooking plush, sculptured gardens: GQ recommends the Princess Louise Suite. The Wood Norton has a brasserie, but with an increasing focus on fine dining, overseen by manager Jorge Periera, we’d go for the foie gras followed by rabbit loin and leg.

Beef sliders with chilli jam at Tonic

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(1) The Brick Room

Head north to (4) The Crown & Sandys (Ombersley, WR9 0EW. 01905 620252. thecrownand sandys.co.uk) in the “black and white” village of Ombersley, whose 17th-century timbers bulge under the sheer weight of years. For lunch at this hotel, GQ made light of a hangover with some fine seared scallops with black pudding and pea purée, and ended with fluffy Bakewell tart. With three seemingly distinct – but connected – venues in a row, you could spend an entire night on Foregate Street. Best to start through the doors of the listed façade of (5) Tonic (36 Foregate Street, WR1 1EE. 01905 613911. tonic-worcester.co.uk). Try the Gin & Elderflower Martini while nibbling the buttermilk fried chicken in satay sauce or beef sliders with chilli jam. For serious oenophiles, pop next door to (6) No35 (35 Foregate Street, WR1 1EE. 01905 726333. 35theprovenance.co.uk), where Adrienn Auerbach will guide you through fine wines with a helpful range of flights, light food and cheese pairings and yet more cocktails such as the Passion Fruit Cosmopolitan. Finally, if you still can, walk a few paces to (7) Bolero (34 Foregate Street, WR1 1EE. 01905 22220. bolerovenues. com) for some of the best food in the city. Mercifully light halloumi was followed by sweet Barbary duck with a potato pancake and orange butter sauce, which, with the unforced warmth of staff and venue, brings the microodyssey to a suitably satisfying end. GC

13

START wandering at Alexander Fell’s

3


TASTE

THE BOTTLE

Winter Spice by Seedlip

Premier inn (clockwise from main): Refuel by The Churchill Arms’ inglenook fire; fennel and crab salad with chicory; the pub’s Cotswold stone facade

THE PUB

The Churchill Arms

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After apprenticeships in the most demanding kitchens going, chef Nick Deverell-Smith takes an early retirement (of sorts) in the country WHAT do you do if most of your cooking career has been spent at the highest level, working with the likes of Gordon Ramsay, Marco PierreWhite and Eric Chavot, and then serving as head chef at The Restaurant at Soho House and Dean Street Townhouse? Well, you’d probably retire to the Cotswolds. Which is exactly what Nick Deverell-Smith has done. The only surprise is that he is just 34. A bit young to be opening a country pub, isn’t it? “I suppose so,” he says, “but after 12 years at the Michelin-star level, I wanted something more relaxed, less formal and I wanted to cook the kind of food I love.” Taking the Tom Kerridge approach to the menu, Deverell-Smith specialises in turning pub classics all the way up to ten, using local ingredients prepared with great care and genuine passion (plus a fried egg). Standout starters include chicken livers on toast with cider onions and smoked haddock soufflé. For mains,

look no further than pork T-bone with mash, Churchill’s chicken stew with crusty bread and breaded veal with anchovies. If you have room for dessert, go for anything with the words “sticky”, “crumble” or “chocolate” in the title. They also serve a killer Sunday lunch. If you want to make a weekend of it, there are also rooms available. Given that the pub dates back to the 17th century, you shouldn’t expect much in the way of cat-swinging opportunities, or any soundproofing for that matter, but the rooms are smartly finished and have a cosy charm. They also offer some stunning views of the countryside. In fact, after a long walk, a big lunch, and a few pints of Lion from the nearby Hook Norton Brewery in front of the inglenook fireplace, retiring to the Cotswolds starts to make a whole lot of sense... PH ORooms from £120 per night. Paxford, Chipping Camden, Gloucestershire GL55 6XH. 01386 593159. churchillarms.co

DESPITE the bleak weather, the long, dark evenings and the deep human instinct to hunker down with a warming and restorative glass, even the most committed drinkers consider taking a break in January. Thankfully, there’s now an alternative to booze that feels just as sophisticated and satisfying as your favourite snifter – Seedlip’s Winter Spice, the first nonalcoholic spirit. Inspired by his family’s farming heritage and a 17th-century volume on herbal distillation, Ben Branson developed a process of steeping each botanical individually in grain spirit, then separating off the alcohol using copper pot stills. This produces a spicy, complex spirit with the kind of texture and depth that belies its zero per cent alcohol. “The world is drinking less but better alcohol, so sophisticated nonalcoholic drinks are necessary and relevant to the way we live our lives,” says Branson. Launched in late 2015, their first production sold out in just three weeks. Luckily there are now good stocks, so you can try it out for yourself with ice, good tonic, a sprig of pine and an enormous sense of wellbeing. Amy Matthews O£29.99. At Selfridges. selfridges.com


SOCIALISING WITH STYLE DUBAI

GQBAR.COM

GQ BAR DUBAI / NEIL WALTON


TASTE THE CLUB

The Jazz Café Camden’s famous music hall is staging a welcome encore following a multimillion-pound refit Ever wondered where The Jazz Café in Camden disappeared to last year? No, we didn’t either. But we sat up straight and noticed when it reopened this summer following a whopping £3 million makeover. In the new, capable hands of The Colombo Group, who also run Phonox and The Camden Assembly, The Jazz Café has finally shaken off its cobwebs, all the while protecting its core of great quality jazz and reputation for hosting big names. So what’s changed? There’s a brand new D&B sound system, as well as a remodelled mezzanine level to seat 69 people, so you can dine and face the music. Plus, once you have a table for dinner, you technically have it for the whole night. What’s my order? Brisket and bone-marrow burger, please, with a Moscow Mule on repeat. You said big names? Camden icon Amy Winehouse, Herbie Hancock, Lana Del Rey and D’Angelo have all graced the stage. It’s not just jazz, then? Nope, electronic, disco, soul, funk... as long as it’s good, anything goes. Expect live music during the week and club nights (R&B and hip-hop Fridays, soul and disco Saturdays) taking over after dark at the weekend. Who’s on the bill? Horse Meat Disco meets The Deep Throat Choir for a night of live disco classics on 20 January (£15) and on 4 February velvet-voiced Thabo Mkwananzi and his trio, The Real Deal, present their personal take on D’Angelo (£10). EH

Photographs Justin De Souza; Eneko at One Aldwych

O5 Parkway, London NW1. 020 7485 6834. thejazzcafelondon.com.

Front harmony: Peter Josef and Mammal Hands perform at the Jazz Café

Basque in the glory: The interior of Eneko At One Aldwych is as bold as its menu

THE RESTAURANT

Eneko At One Aldwych The chef behind one of the greatest restaurants on the planet is bringing star quality to the capital and staking a dramatic claim on Covent Garden’s culinaria IN Bilbao, Eneko Atxa (inset) is considered a gastronomic genius: his Basque Country restaurant Azurmendi has three Michelin stars, sits at No16 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list and is the focus of many a foodie pilgrimage. Atxa has now brought his interpretation of modern Basque cuisine to London, having opened Eneko in September. It’s taken over the old Axis site – originally the Morning Post HQ – in the basement of boutique hotel One Aldwych, just off the Strand. It’s been transformed into a light-filled and pristine space that befits a chef famed for his precision. Enter via a copper-plated staircase; take your seat in chilli-red booths, lit by spotlights; dine at asymmetrical tables, smoothly sculpted from Spanish chestnut trees. Somehow, though, the overall finish is a little confused – the individual elements variously clinical and theatrical.

The dramatic flourishes infuse the food, too. The butter is ceremoniously smashed up with herbs at your table by a pestle-wielding waiter, dishes are scattered with edible flowers and there’s even (spoiler alert) a dessert trolley, trundled out at the end of your meal. Signature starter Memories Of The Bay Of Biscay – which sounds like a musical number – enters on a swirl of dry ice. Its rock oyster, crab and wild-prawn tartare, presented in a trio of seashells, is more than delicious enough to hold its own without the fanfare. Eneko is refreshingly adventurous and a slick addition to Covent Garden’s culinary scene, but it’s still a little quiet, a little stark, and without a buzzing audience, those theatrical twists can feel overblown. You get the feeling it’s yet to really make its entrance. Jennifer Bradly OEneko At One Aldwych, 1 Aldwych, London WC2. 020 7300 0300. eneko.london


Scrum down: Donald Trump surrounded by reporters and photographers in Trump Tower, 30 November 2015

Not a single newspaper or television network backed Donald Trump for president, so when this media-made Frankenstein’s monster and his conspiratorial supporters beat Hillary Clinton, it vindicated everything they had ever believed about the mainstream elite. Now, GQ asks where a shocked and impotent liberal establishment can go after losing the culture war’s biggest battle Michael Wolff

HOW DONALD TRUMPED THE MEDIA STORY BY


Photograph PA Images

MICHAEL WOLFF

‘They said he should not be elected and therefore could not imagine that he would be’


The schism between the new president and the media is arguably as great as has ever existed since mass media became the single most important factor in electoral politics. We have an unimaginable answer to an almost unimaginable question (at least nobody would reasonably ever imagine that a circumstance might arise to prompt asking it): what would happen if the entirety of the establishment media, that is every authoritative gatekeeper of fact and opinion, joined together to declare a political candidate unfit for office and to warn of the dire calamity of his election and, to boot, reveal all manner of scandalous behaviour about him? The unimaginable answer – because how could someone, anyone, survive daily and concerted media opprobrium? – is that it would have no result at all. Actually, not no result, but the opposite result. The more media depredations, the more legitimate it made the candidate appear. This is not just a strange plot twist in the long and complicated narrative of the fourth estate’s relationship to political power, but

‘Surprising, large, unscripted and full-frontal, Trump was a godsend’

Lady Liberty weeps: The Daily Mirror reacts to Trump's victory, 10 November 2016

to such a further extent that he triumphed over his own triteness and obviousness. In a way this defines the reality genre of which he became one of the prime beneficiaries. He was a joke. A clown. A pastiche of a real businessman. His persona was as an obvious self-promoter. That’s what he was famous for. And then he became a pastiche of a real political candidate. He was the exaggerated figure, the unlikely presence, the certain fool, in a field of many who managed each to diminish the other by their predictability and averageness. Trump, surprising, garrulous, large, unscripted, and full frontal, was a media godsend. The scale of his media contribution was cemented by a first debate which, without him, might have drawn an audience of three million, but with him drew 25 million. Trump and the media thereupon

joined in mutual dependency. The media sanguine in its belief that eventually (but, please God, not too soon) he would self-destruct, Trump as certain in his understanding that the media could not do without him. The media, having created him, then, in a sudden, panicked, crisis of conscious – when his nomination became certain – and yet confident that it held the upper hand, turned against him. A crucial piece of the background here is the media assuming, in its superior fashion, that it was pulling his strings, rather than him pulling its strings. An early indication of potentially countervailing forces was Trump’s escalating conflict with Fox News. Rupert Murdoch’s Fox News Channel had, for a generation, played an outsized part in anointing a Republican candidate. Murdoch, a pro-business conservative, was also a buttoned-down one, finding Trump personally appalling. Murdoch, quite at odds with Trump ally and Fox chief Roger Ailes, threw his weight against Trump (Ailes was ousted by the Murdoch family over the summer). On his part, violating all known Republican protocols, Trump made a head-on attack against Fox. This not only amped up his conflict-coverage quotient, but turned Fox into an establishment proxy that he could pitilessly deride, hence making him a darling of all other cable news media that had long trailed Fox’s influence and ratings. Trump got it: the media itself was a symbol to be used and played – which would only generate for him more media attention. The turnaround, going into the summer, was extraordinary. Trump, in the media view, went from an amusement and train wreck, to a threat and malignancy. By the time of the Republican convention in late July, the established media – every network, every major newspaper, every significant pundit, every cable news venue – had become abidingly anti-Trump. It was not just a media lined up against the Trump positions, but good lined up against evil. Only the Second World War, the Kennedy assassination and 9/11 had caused the modern media to speak with such a singular and unified voice.

rump, on his part, went into August almost singularly focused on a weekly schedule of rallies and personal events. Clinton had the concerted support of a media overwhelmingly invested in Trump’s defeat (Trump literally had the support of not a single newspaper), plus a television advertising budget reaching into the hundreds of millions versus virtually no ad spending at all on the Trump side. That is, Clinton had the entire modern media complex and Trump had throwback bonfire-like rallies.

Photograph PA Images

rather an ironic pageant – even absurdist farce. A kooky betrayal. President Donald J Trump and the US media appear now to be split by deep doctrinal differences – of the constitutional crisis kind. But, virtually up until the split, Trump and the media were as one – a perfect symbiosis. For decades, Trump had no life independent from the media. He became a figure in the nation, and his a monitisable name – albeit quite a ludicrous one – because of his nonstop, relentless, shameless and often embarrassing courtship of the media. Donald Trump was, in a time of some of the greatest competition for this title, the world’s ultimate media whore. Hands down. Indeed, on many occasions the media wrote him off as being too much of a media whore (when I worked for New York magazine in the late Nineties, Trump stories were invariably rejected as too lamely obvious and self-promoting). But he was so much of a media whore that he supplicated himself


MICHAEL WOLFF

The Trump show: The Donald speaks to the media after the Republican presidential primary debate in Las Vegas, 15 December 2015

‘The more depredations, the more legitimate he appeared’


MICHAEL WOLFF Often the primary subject of the Trump rallies was the media itself. Reporters at these events were singled out. They were the opposition – opposed to Trump, opposed to making America great again, representing the structural conspiracy that supported and defined a United States against the interests of Trump’s American people. “CNN Sucks” became as prominent a chant and cry as “Lock her up” at these rallies of 35,000 to 40,000 mad-as-hell people. It was us against them. That is, for the media, steeped in the new urban, millennial, multicultural, technology-enabled, gentrified, ever-more superbly educated, borderless world, it was a face-off with an older, whiter, angrier, less educated, under-employed (if not unemployed), demographically shrinking and often racist and sexist world. In this, the media took a clear side. In the name of a better future, it had a responsibility to challenge the reactionary past. The media arguably became a political party. It was a political party representing Clinton, a liberal and ethnic United States, and a new, modern, global social ethos, not just inhospitable to everybody else’s ethos, but existing parallel to it. One side might want to “make America great again” while the other side, the parallel world, was sanguine that the world it lived in was already pretty damn great. (A world of opportunity, equality and ever-new technological functionality – what could be bad?) Hence, Trump, as he taunted and baited the media, turned this force that was mostly against him, into the strongest symbol of what he and his were against. The more the media was against him, the stronger a hated symbol of arrogance and intolerance and elitism it became. Indeed, the media, implacably opposing Trump, forsaking almost every aspect of impartiality, became, in the Trump narrative, the conspiratorial spectre that would rig the election against him. And it certainly seemed that this unity of opinion was designed to produce a preordained result – hence, rigged, in other words. Such an idea proved to be a unifying idea for the other side. The Trump nation, showing up in large numbers to vote, would stand up to the malignant media. nd yet a brief pause. Trump loves the media. Trump understands the power it has and, accordingly, loves the people who have media power. More than any other president, save perhaps John F Kennedy, whose father ran a film studio, and Ronald Reagan, a leading man and governor of California, Trump is on a buddy basis with media moguls, a speed dialer with the heads of studios and media conglomerates. The weekend after the election, Ari Emanuel,

 A

the head of the most powerful talent agency in Hollywood, William Morris Endeavor (WME), and arguably himself the most powerful man in Hollywood, whose brother, Rahm, now the Democratic mayor of Chicago, was Obama’s first chief of staff, paid a very public visit to Trump’s mansion retreat in Bedminster, New Jersey. What was this message? In part, perhaps, it was another message to the media: I know where the real power in the business lies. I know, better than the editors and scribblers and pundits, how the media really works. Then, too, his appointment of Stephen Bannon, as a senior-most power in the Trump White House, had to be noted for its insider media significance. Bannon with no political strategy experience was now the chief White House strategist. Rather, his key experience was in creating a media business, the Breitbart News Network, that targeted the

Trump of the will: The front page of the New York Post, 9 November 2016

most vociferous and passionate parts of the Trump movement. While bitterly at odds with the media, this White House would likely also be the most media savvy in history. And, as though the media’s contributions to making Trump weren’t enough, then, handing him an ultimate victory – an I-told-you-so victory – the mainstream media, to a man, to an outlet, singularly failed to predict, anticipate, imagine the possibility or hedge against the risk of a Trump win. As much as the financial industry in 2007 was fully invested in believing that housing prices would continue to go up, the news media was invested in Hillary Clinton winning. When she didn’t, it shook every media assumption and premise. Its credibility was no greater than the bank industry’s post the financial crisis and property bust. Not only did a Trump victory reveal colossal media incompetence, but it confirmed what the Trump side had said all along: the media was

‘Trump’s victory proved the media was wholly unable to see beyond its own world and reality’

hopelessly biased, and, not just more in favour of one than the other, but wholly unable to see beyond its own world and reality. The media said Trump should not be elected and therefore could not imagine that he could be. Trump, the single most antagonistic presidential candidate to the media in history and, arguably, the single most successful political manipulator of the media, now, with perhaps the greatest dumb luck ever, suddenly found himself as he became president lording over a media that had hopelessly squandered its own credibility and authority. Here it was: a militantly wilful, if not despotic, president would be held to account by an emperor’s-new-clothes and publicly shamed media. For the media there was hardly any hiding from the blame, it had created him and then, with the greatest arrogance, tried and failed to kill him. Thirteen days after the election on 21 November, Trump took the opportunity to invite the honchos of the news media to an off-the-record meeting at Trump Tower, the details of which were soon leaked to the press (leaked by the Trump side faster than they were leaked by the media side). In this, his victory and their defeat, Trump skipped magnanimity, and went directly to contempt – apparently as much as he could take the time to muster. There was simply no precedent. An illogical and entirely unpredictable figure had, against all odds, made himself president of the United States, and the media – mocked, diminished and confused – had no idea how to cover him. That’s how the Trump administration begins.

MORE FROM GQ

For these related stories, visit GQ.co.uk/magazine

Pussy Hound* (Michael Wolff, January 2017) Michael Wolff Vs Millennials (Michael Wolff, December 2016) A Scandal Or A Coup? (Michael Wolff, November 2016)


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EDITED BY

ROBERT JOHNSTON

THE MOST WANTED: It may be one of the oldest of modern man’s staples, but the tuxedo is finally entering its golden age. And anything goes. From the simplest black jacket to this tiger-striped number by Dolce & Gabbana, you have no excuse not to go wild. Photograph by Jody Todd. Jacket, £1,670. Shirt, £423. Trousers, £525. Bow tie, £94. All by Dolce & Gabbana. dolcegabbana.com


Jumper by Gieves & Hawkes, £350. At matchesfashion.com. Watch by Breitling, £6,810. breitling.com

Jumper by Calvin Klein, £95. calvinklein.com. Watch by Seiko, £799. seiko.com

Jacket by Philipp Plein, £2,335. plein.com. Watch by Oris, £2,750. oris.ch

GQ recommends: If you are left-handed and a keen diver, check out the new Tudor left-handed Pelagos. With all the functionality of a professional diving watch, it ensures the southpaws among us aren’t at a disadvantage when hitting the big blue. £3,020. tudorwatch.com

Jumper by Michael Kors, £400. michaelkors.co.uk. Watch by Bell & Ross, £1,950. bellross.com

Photograph by Matthew Beedle

Jumper by Ermenegildo Zegna, £540. zegna.com. Watch by Thomas Sabo, £225. thomassabo.com

DARK MATTER: Chronographs are built for action, but whether you are sporting yours at the track or on the street, nothing says peak performance better than an all-black timepiece.


Photographs Douglas Keeve; Mike Toth/Toth + Co; Tommy Hilfiger Archives Model Greg Blackford at Body London Grooming Stephanie Staunton at Carol Hayes

American designers have always been experts at selling dreams, whether a misty-eyed mythologising of the old West or a clean-cut version of gilded East Coast youth cavorting on an endless summer holiday. One of the masters of this art is Tommy Hilfiger, so it comes as no surprise that his new memoir is entitled American Dreamer: My Life In Fashion & Business. Indeed, few designers have taken so many of the disparate threads that make up American

culture – from Ivy League to hip hop – and repackaged them so successfully. As his old friend and collaborator of a quarter century, producer Quincy Jones, says in the foreword, “We were able to create something iconic in pop culture and start a revolution in modern-day marketing.” As he wryly comments, Hilfiger’s motto is “mediocrity is not an option”. The book follows Hilfiger’s career from his early years in Elmira in upstate New York – “It was like living in Leave It To Beaver land” – and opening his first store to the present day, aged 65 and one of the most successful designers in the US, as much of a celebrity as the stars of his iconic advertising campaigns. Of course, like all the best stories, it hasn’t always been plain sailing. But Hilfiger has the great capacity not only to bounce back but to learn lessons. “When I was 25 I went bankrupt. I was

devastated. But it turned out to be the best lesson I have ever had.” For such an iconic American, Hilfiger’s life reads like passages of the most famous British poem, “If” by Rudyard Kipling. “If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster/ And treat those two impostors just the same... Yours is the Earth and everything that’s in it.” And – what’s more – you’ll be Tommy, my son! RJ American Dreamer: My Life In Fashion & Business (Penguin, £26) by Tommy Hilfiger is out now.

Jacket by Tommy Hilfiger, £145. uk.tommy.com

Crew neck by Hilfiger Denim, £95. uk.tommy.com

‘From Ivy League to hip hop, few designers have repackaged American culture so successfully’

Old glories: Snapshots from Tommy Hilfiger’s career and personal life illustrate his new autobiography

TOMMY HILFIGER:

From the very beginning of his career in 1986, when advertising genius George Lois plastered his far-fromhousehold name (or at least part of it) in 10ft-high letters on Times Square alongside Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger owned the red-white-and-blue combo – and he still does today.

His name may be synonymous with his nation’s style, but life wasn’t always so star-spangled for the designer. In a new memoir, he remembers his journey to the top.


Andres Hallin, 33 Bugg Vincent, 28

Joshua Nelson, 25 Occupation: Sales assistant Favourite item of clothing: “I have to say my leather jacket.” Get the look: Leather jacket by All Saints, £380. allsaints.com

Occupation: Buyer Favourite item of clothing: “Anything denim.” Get the look: 1967 Type III jacket by Levi’s Vintage, £290. levi.com

Occupation: Sales director North Europe at J Lindeberg Favourite item of clothing: “Golfing clothing from J Lindeberg.” Get the look: Trousers by J Lindberg, £90. jlindeberg.com

Terry Donovan, 29

Dom Kong, 29

Occupation: PR & marketing fashion manager Favourite item of clothing: “Converse Chuck Taylor All Star 70s in wool.” Get the look: Shoes by Converse, £70. converse.com

Occupation: Director of clothing brand, WWYF Favourite item of clothing: “Bags.” Get the look: Bag by Want Les Essentials, £365. At matchesfashion.com

STREET LIFE: EDITED BY

Carlotta Constant

From the classic leather jacket to a shoulder bag big enough for any real job, we check out some of the coolest looks being rocked right now.

Mr Bingo, 37 Jacob Richmond, 28

Photographs by Dom Fleming

Occupation: Graphic designer Favourite item of clothing: “Hats.” Get the look: Hat by Larose Paris, £289. laroseparis.com

Occupation: Artist Favourite item of clothing: “Swimming shorts, especially the jazzy sort.” Get the look: Varsity jacket by Scotch & Soda, £270. scotch-soda.com


t’s tailoring – but not as we know it. Suit-making technology has recently made a quantum leap and today the latest Hugo Boss made-to-measure services offer a quality that was once the preserve of the bespoke boys. For example, during pattern cutting, a high-resolution camera is used to identify patterns, stripes and textures to allow the machines to align the pieces of cloth most efficiently for the perfect cut. And until recently the best way to finish buttonholes was by hand, but the latest generation of sewing machines can produce holes of a superior finish even to those

created manually. Of course, the main drawback of hand-stitching is the time involved, so while the latest machinery can match artisan quality, it can do it in half the time. A highlight of Hugo Boss’ service is personalisation and you can have anything from a significant date, song title or even drawing embroidered into the suit. When award-winner Anthony Joshua had his Boss suit made for the 2016 GQ Men Of The Year Awards, he had his signature and a pair of red boxing gloves stitched in. The other great advance in tailoring from Hugo Boss is “Create Your Look”.

In the past, if you bought your jacket and trousers as separates – perhaps at a different time or store – there was a risk that the pieces wouldn’t perfectly match because of inevitable variations (albeit small) in the colour of the cloth. Now thanks to Boss’ improvements in the dyeing process this is a thing of the past. It may not sound much but this is a big step forward. Finally, checks are done with a photo spectrometer on every piece of fabric to ensure the dye has taken consistently, so wherever and whenever you buy the match will be perfect. RJ

HUGO BOSS: Thanks to cutting-edge technology, the titan of tailoring ushers in a new era of bespoke.

Whether you’re swapping derivatives in the City, web designing in your creative hub or even working remotely, Boss has a bag for every professional in every sphere. From cool backpacks to sharp briefcases you can be sure that all the tools of your particular trade will be carried off in style.

Bag by Boss, £750. hugoboss.com Bag by Boss, £650. hugoboss.com

Bag by Boss, £700. hugoboss.com Bag by Boss, £850. hugoboss.com


HOW TO...

One of the best things about winter is the opportunity to get into some serious scarf action – be it cable-knit, cashmere or just plain cool. But it’s not just what you wear, it’s how you wear it, so here’s five ways to neck it right. Story by Nick Carvell Photograph by Mitch Payne Styling by Carlotta Constant

Jacket by Norse Projects, £180. norseprojects.com

1. The Wrap-Around Drape the scarf around your neck and throw one end over your shoulder before slipping your coat on to keep it in place.

2. The Crossover You’ll need a longer length for this one. Drape around your neck, cross at the front, then tie at the back for a scarf that stays in place under any lapel style. By Burberry, £350. uk.burberry.com

Scarf by Johnstons Of Elgin, £195. At Fortnum & Mason. fortnumand mason.com 3. The Highwayman Fold diagonally into a triangle, then tie two corners at the back of your neck for a style that shows off the maximum surface area of a patterned scarf. By Dolce & Gabbana, £249. dolcegabbana.com

Jeans by Edwin, £140. edwin-europe.com

Shoes by Redwing, £239. redwinglondon.com

5. The Loop-Through Best for short lengths. Fold the scarf in half horizontally and then again vertically. Wrap around your neck and pull the ends through the loop in the centre. By Brunello Cucinelli, £320. brunellocucinelli.com

Grooming Rose Angus at S:Management using Nars

Coat by Moncler, £925. At Harrods. harrods.com

4. The Under ’N’ Over Drape around your neck with the ends at equal length. Take one end over the front of the other, then pull up vertically under the other and bring the front end downwards (a bit like you’re tying a cravat). By Louis Vuitton, £320. louisvuitton.com


JIM CHAPMAN:

Dress to impress your other half by matching luxe basics with suits, and committing to a look that works for you both.

ith February, the month of love, just around the corner, I thought I’d write about some of the irreconcilable differences between my wife and I when it comes to what I wear. One of her favourite sayings when I ask for her opinion on an outfit is, “I just don’t get boys’

W

clothes.” If she had her way I would live in tracksuit trousers and hoodies. In her defence, she has refined taste and would rather these be of the cashmere variety. When I wear something that she likes, she’s very sweet and will always let me know, but it has got to the point where I’m already aware of what she’ll approve of before I’ve even put it on. As a result, if I know I will be with her all day, I will dress accordingly. She has lots of “favourites” which all fit a very casual theme – ripped jeans with Converse, jumpers, check shirts. My issue with such outfits is that they work for the weekend, but I take pride in the way I look all week long. They take zero effort and make me feel like a teenager. On the plus side, it’s nice to know that my wife is easy to please. Rather frustratingly, the look she enjoys the least is the smart-casual

vibe, which is what I spend most of my time in. She’s not really a fan of trousers worn with boots or nice shirts paired with leather jackets. She tolerates it, but I think she likes me less when I wear it. But why? Recently, I pushed her on the topic, in order to find out just what it was that prevented her from having the same reaction as when I’m in ripped jeans and Converse. Her response was less than clear. “I just don’t want to cuddle you in that. It looks a bit much.” So now I know. One smart-casual look that does enjoy, however, is that of

‘If my wife had her way, I would live in cashmere tracksuit trousers and hoodies’

a Fifties-inspired tuck-in. A plain T-shirt, fine knitted cardigan or shirt tucked into trousers with simple boots or shoes seems to be a winner, so if we are stepping out together and I want her to like me, you might see me rocking a look like that. That said, she is a big fan of me in a suit and can actually spot a nice suit without any prior knowledge of what makes a suit nice. I also think foregoing the shirt and tie and wearing a T-shirt underneath does something to her because I get a lot of compliments in that sort of ensemble. She does seem to follow the norm when it comes to formal dressing. Whenever I’m in a tux, I feel like a very lucky man because she can’t take her eyes off me. I haven’t made plans for Valentine’s Day yet, but you can guarantee that I’ll be wearing something that I know she’ll approve of.

Photographs Belstaff; Instagram/@jimchapman; Light Project Management

Mid-tops by Giuseppe For Zayn, £585. giuseppezanottidesign.com

Belstaff: It may be famous for its waxed jackets but, given its biker roots, it should be no surprise that Belstaff really knows what it is doing

Giuseppe For Zayn: Zayn Malik and Giuseppe Zanotti have joined forces to create an exclusive footwear line called, of course, Giuseppe For Zayn. The capsule collection launches worldwide this month with four styles in suede and leather.

when it comes to leather. This shearling-collared jacket and snap-fastening gloves give the perfect nod to Belstaff’s impressive heritage. Jacket, £1,295. Gloves, £135. Both by Belstaff. belstaff.co.uk

Boots by Giuseppe For Zayn, £900. giuseppezanottidesign.com


How to store your white trainers... The sun is one of the biggest enemies for your white trainers, turning them yellow and cracking the leather over time, so always store out of direct sunlight. When storing, lay tumble dryer fabric sheets inside the shoes. This will help to deodorise them as well as draw out moisture – which is particularly important if you have been wearing your trainers without socks.

Bright idea The best way to give white trainers a boost is to wash the laces. If you put them in a machine invest in a small washing net.

Using cedar shoe trees will help avoid creases forming in the leather and keep it pliable. Shoe trees by Church’s, £70. church-footwear.com

T-shirt, £60. Jeans, £150. Trainers, £150. All by Diesel. diesel.com


Trainers by Jimmy Choo, £575. jimmychoo.com

Trainers by Off-White, £125. At Harvey Nichols. harveynichols.com

Trainers by Philipp Plein, £395. At Harrods. harrods.com

KEEP IT SIMPLE: Seasons change, but the white trainer will always be a wardrobe essential. Take your pick from GQ’s selection of box-fresh beauties with a twist. Trainers by Giuseppe Zanotti, £495. giuseppezanottidesign.com

Photographs by Matthew Beedle

Trainers by Maison Margiela, £495. At Harvey Nichols. harveynichols.com

Trainers by Belstaff, £250. At matchesfashion.com

Trainers by Christian Louboutin, £475. christianlouboutin.com

Trainers by Adidas x Raf Simons, £225. y-3.com


I find that it is never cold enough in this country to justify wearing a bulky coat, but I don’t want to have to worry about lots of layers. Is there a neat solution to this dilemma? JL, Suffolk

Shirt by Gitman Vintage, £165. At End. endclothing.com

Shirt by Paul Smith, £105. paulsmith.co.uk

STYLE SHRINK: EDITED BY

I love the Italians – despite what I might say about their chartered accountants. They will never be the most fashionable nationality on earth. Indeed, often when they try to be fashionable many just end up falling into the fussy denim trap. But when it comes to effortless style and that certain je ne sais quoi (I know, I know), few can beat our transalpine cousins. They are good to reference when it comes to the cold, as they do tend to feel it a lot more than us Brits, who are made of tougher stuff. Indeed, the Italians are obsessed with mysterious winter maladies, particularly one they call colpo d’aria, or “hit by air”, a result of the cold weather which, as far as I can make out, has no basis in fact. To avoid these illnesses, they will often slip a padded gilet over (or indeed under) a blazer for extra warmth. These body warmers are a great boost to the body without making you feel constricted or overheated and – if you are like me – a good source of extra pocket space. Moncler (an Italian brand, natch) offers the perfect gilet but lots of labels do similar versions. Orlebar Brown’s are also a favourite.

ROBERT JOHNSTON

I never know whether to wear shirts tucked in (and risk looking fat) or untucked (and end up looking messy). Are there any rules about this sort of thing? Richard, via email

I have recently suffered a sudden yen for headwear after entering my thirties. Is this acceptable? I have seen numerous men around the same age as me sporting flat caps and the like, but have no desire to resemble Cleggy in Last Of The Summer Wine. Any suggestions? JM, via email

Everyone, at some point or another, wants to get ahead by getting a hat, so JM need not feel alone in his desires. I often feel like sporting a titfer but alas I have an enormous head (size 7 7/8 aka, XXL or, more technically speaking, freakishly large) so rarely find a cap that fits unless I go to a specialist hatter. My go-to winter

headwear is a Muirfield tweed newsboy or eight-piece (so-called for the number of pieces the crown is made from) cap from the wonderfully historic James Lock & Co of St James’s in London, a choice I share with David Beckham as it happens. In summer, of course, one’s choice can be a little more flamboyant. In my Ibiza days I would sport a straw Stetson, but I think the sun has set on that particular party. Now I would be more inclined to a Soho Panama by St James’s other historic hatter Bates & Co. I have always loved the straw trilbies at Paul Smith that come in a range of colours – but, personally speaking, I struggle to get them over my big bonce. Take note, Sir Paul.

Muirfield caps, £99 each. Both by Lock & Co. lockhatters.co.uk

Gilet by Moncler, £520. moncler.com

Photographs Jody Todd

There is a rule that is often quoted that if a shirt has a straight bottom hem then it is meant to be worn untucked. But if it has tails then it should always be tucked in. While I agree with the former point, I have to say that I have no truck with the second. I think the better yardstick is the actual style of the shirt and the situation in which it is going to be worn. So, for example, unless you are the preteen nephew of the groom then at a wedding shirts should definitely be tucked in. If, on the other hand, you are sporting a button-down chambray shirt and meeting friends in the pub on a weekend, then untucked is the way to go. Indeed, as Richard says, unless you have a gym body tucking in a shirt in the latter circumstances may well give the impression of more excess poundage than you are guilty of. And if you favour a – how do I put it – jazzy shirt, such as the printed Americana numbers by Gitman Vintage (and I admit that I do), then these should definitely be worn untucked. Finally, a personal rule of mine is that if you are wearing a T-shirt under your shirt then it should be untucked unless you want to look like an Italian chartered accountant.


irst located in a mews stable behind The Lanesborough hotel in London’s Knightsbridge, and then in a second store on Conduit Street, Connolly was a “concept store” with “curated” content long before either term had entered the retail lexicon. It was the sort of place that other retailers and fashion leaders, when interviewed, would nominate as their favourite London location. Connolly was a remarkable achievement. For a century and more, Connolly Brothers had supplied leather to British institutions such as the Houses Of Parliament and automotive marques including Ferrari, Bentley and Jaguar. Then in the Nineties, Isabel Ettedgui, who was married to the legendary – now alas, late – fashion retailer Joseph, became fixated with the idea that somewhere inside this traditional British company was a modern luxury brand. Thanks to her, Connolly emerged onto the international luxscape as the British Hermès and now, following a six-year hiatus, it is back. Connolly has reopened in a townhouse on Mayfair’s Clifford Street, which thanks to Drake’s and Anderson & Sheppard

Haberdashery is an important menswear ‘The collection has address. Connolly was where one could find a contemporary Loro Piana garments before the brand opened edge. Technical shops around the globe and the Original Car fabrics are a Shoe before it was owned by Prada. You could big part of get Charvet shirts along with Elie Bleu humithe offer and dors rather than having to go to Paris for them. original Connolly It also peddled a highly desirable line of concepts have leather jackets to which I became dangerously addicted as well as briefcases, belts and cashbeen updated’ mere picnic rugs. Over 20 years later, there is plenty to keep first-generation Connollistas happy – the store can still kit you out for the Goodwood Revival with driving jacket, car shoes, classic open-face crash helmet and leather-trimmed goggles. The collection also has a contemporary edge. Technical fabrics are a big part of the offer and original Connolly concepts have been updated. For instance, one much-loved classic of the old days was a two-colour reversible leather blouson, which has been brought up to date as a suede blouson that when turned inside out becomes a water-repellent technical garment. Essentials include the now-mandatary bedsheet-sized man-shawl, or airline scarf, so light to wear that they call it “cloud weight”. Knitwear is particularly strong. Taking a ruggedly deluxe direction, there are Aran jumpers and a remarkable pullover that is cashmere on the inside against the skin, but hirsute and resilient Shetland on the outside. And while there is still a selection of Charvet shirts, the majority of the fashion is own label and designed by Marc Audibet As one would expect, there is plenty of emphasis on leather, be it Belgian bridle, French box calf, cowhide from a tannery in Barcelona or suede of a silken softness made in northern Italy. Moreover, Connolly will be reintroducing Vaumol, a brand of leather from its archives that will be used to cover furniture – an interiors collection will be exhibited in the first floor showroom. Personally speaking, I am delighted: my 20-year-old suede jacket is looking a bit scuffed, so it could not have reopened at a more convenient time. 4 Clifford Street, London, W1. 020 7952 6708. connollyengland.com

LUXURY:

Connolly – the king of concept stores – is restored in Mayfair where it reigns, true to form, as an emporium of continental treasures and technical excellence. BY Nick Foulkes

F  

Clockwise from top left: Small wallet, £245. Medium wallet, £350. Large wallet, £765. Gloves, £300. Shoes, £420. Jumpers, £395. All by Connolly. connollyengland.com


GROOMING: GQ SPA GUIDE 2017 Break away from the bleak midwinter with the greatest detox destinations and healing hot spots in the world, hand-picked to relax and reset your body, mind and soul. EDITED BY

Carlotta Constant Brain waves: The SHA Wellness Clinic specialises in cognitive therapies

SHA Wellness Clinic, Alicante. SPAIN Although it’s only April, it’s already 27C outside, and the Costa Blanca sun is doing what it has done for aeons – luring the old, the under-employed and the plain idle outside to enjoy mañana time. So why am I strapped to an ECG monitor watching a narration-free documentary about tropical fish? Because the SHA Wellness Clinic’s head of cognitive development and brain stimulation, Dr Bruno Ribeiro Do Couto, is helping me establish how much of my loss of attention and general impulsiveness is down to ageing brain cells, and how much can be accounted for by tiredness. Thankfully, after a barrage of tests it’s established that my cognitive skills are good, disavowing the idea

that with age comes a general and irreversible decline in neural capacity. Fortunately, not all the tests (of which there are a low-impact three or four a day) involve recumbent viewing: rest and relaxation is an important component, as is eating well (the food is across-the-board excellent), and enjoying the occasional hike through the magnificent landscape. Indulging in a little self-help goes a long way, as does Dr Ribeiro’s soothing intellect. Thanks to the good doctor’s ever-ready insights into the workings of the human mind, I left with a renewed respect for my noddle, and the feeling that my brain could do with an annual workout at SHA. Bill Prince

Good for: Anyone who’s forgotten a birthday in the past 12 months. Bad for: Action heroes – it’s all in the mind, literally. Don’t forget: Questions. Dr Ribeiro is a mine of information on the brain. Don’t leave without: A hike through the neighbouring Serra Gelada national park. Seven-night Detox Programmes from £2,695 per person. The Cognitive Development Programme costs from £880 per person. SHA Wellness Clinic, Carrer del Verderol, 5, 03581 L’Albir, Alacante. +34 966 811 199. shawellnessclinic.com

Six Senses Hideaway, Zighy Bay. OMAN Being picked up by the Six Senses concierge from Dubai International Airport sets the tone for the stay. Driving through the desert of the United Arab Emirates and passing the Omani border to climb the mountains of the northern Musandam Peninsula, brings you to the spectacular Zighy Bay retreat. Set on its own beach, surrounded by mountains and with a private marina on the shore line, it’s the ultimate wellbeing sanctuary. The luxury villas have their own private pools and a 24-hour concierge. The spa is nestled away in the top section of the resort bordered by trickling streams and the stunning Omani landscape. The wellness screening looks at everything from body composition to metabolism and stress parameters to provide all the facts and figures to tailor a personalised wellness programme for your stay. Any of the signature massages, body treatments or rituals are sure to relax both mind and body. A detox massage recharges the body and stimulates the skin. The warmed toning oils are what makes the treatment so relaxing. The 60-minute (or 90 depending on what zen level you aim to hit) full-body massage drains any build-up in toxins while boosting circulation and releasing tension. Ryan Grimley Good for: Total escape. No news, no shoes. Bad for: Accessibility from the airport. Don’t forget: To make full use of the private villa chef. Don’t leave without: Paragliding from the top of Zighy Mountain over the bay. Villas from £612 a night based on two people sharing. Six Senses Hideaway, Zighy Bay, 212 Dibba-Musandam PC 800, Oman. +00 968 2673 5555. sixsenses.com

Oman of leisure: The tranquil view across Zighy Bay


Drop in the ocean: Eco-friendly, private villas at Club Med’s Maldives outpost

Club Med Finolhu Villas, Gasfinolhu. MALDIVES Situated in a turquoise lagoon in the heart of the Indian Ocean is Gasfinolhu island: host to Club Med’s newest health and wellbeing-focused spa resort. Forget what you know about Club Med. The chain has now reinvented itself with its oneof-a-kind eco-friendly retreat, surrounded by jaw-droppingly beautiful reefs, white sands and an avenue of stilted huts jutting elegantly into the translucent sea.

Rooms feature a private pool, exposed bathroom, the latest Bose sound system and a private butler who will attend to your every whim. The Spa Village, an oasis of relaxation and privacy, is situated in the heart of the resort and instantly helps you to unwind. Treatments begin with a welcoming foot bath on a breezy deck overlooking the ocean, followed by your choice of treatment. Couples massages

Riad trip: The traditional architecture of Selman Marrakech

Rooms from £363 a night based on two people sharing. Selman Marrakech, Km5 Route d’Amizmiz, Marrakech 40160, Morocco. +212 524 449 600. selman-marrakech.com

(this is honeymoon central) are among the most popular. The treatment begins with a deep exfoliating body cleanse followed by a chakra-balancing and healing

massage and, finally, face therapy. The best bit? Face down on the massage table looking at the busy marine life below through the transparent floor. CC

Good for: Exploring – the Maldives are made up of 1,190 islands. Bad for: Frizzy hair and oily skin. The humidity isn’t forgiving. Don’t forget: Yoga on the beach at 5:45pm as the sun sets. Don’t leave without: A seaplane excursion.

Seven-night all-inclusive stays from £2,815 per person. Club Med Finolhu Villas, Gasfinolhu, Maldives. +960 20 3811 1507. clubmed.co.uk

Selman Marrakech. MOROCCO A ten-minute drive from Marrakech airport, the Selman Marrakech has the best of both worlds: close enough to the bustling (and, often, re-stressing) centre, complete with labyrinthine souks and won’t-take-no traders, but far enough away (again, only ten minutes by taxi) to be an oasis of calm. And so, the Henri Chenot spa here is an oasis within an oasis. Treatment rooms surround a central indoor pool – all soaring arches, dim lights and Arabian lanterns – and while they boast all the vigorous muscle massages you’d expect, the specialism here actually comes with their far more modern treatment machines. The centrepiece of the Chenot philosophy is the hour-long Hydro-Energetic Cure Session, which includes three treatments: an oil-infused water-jet bath which switches jets to treat different areas of the body, a heated waterbed full-body mud wrap (the closest thing to being a human burrito filling), and finally a powerful hydro-jet spray-down (the closest thing to being a rioter facing a water cannon). You’ll end it feeling both exhausted and exhilarated. Stuart McGurk Good for: Serene surroundings – notably the owner’s purebred Arabian ponies, which roam around. Bad for: The heat. Don’t go between May and September. Don’t forget: This will be an enforced detox for the most part – Selman will serve alcohol, but Marrakech is mostly dry. Don’t leave without: Trying the 75-metre pool, the longest in Marrakech.


The Ritz-Carlton, Nusa Dua, Bali. INDONESIA

Infinity and beyond: The InterContinental was designed by architect Bill Bensley

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort. VIETNAM The outrageously opulent Danang Sun Peninsula Resort is testament to Vietnam’s steady economic expansion. Designed by Bangkok-based architect Bill Bensley on an allegedly limitless budget, the aesthetic is Indochina meets the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party. Two cable cars which resemble flying ships ferry guests down the mountainside from the summit, Heaven – which along with Sky, Earth and Sea make up the retreat’s four areas – all the way down to sea level. A stone’s throw from the private beach is a Bastien Gonzalez nail salon and the gargantuan spa. Private treatment villas

spacious enough to accommodate couples are scattered throughout the lush forest and are fully equipped with Harnn products, a botanical beauty brand from neighbouring Thailand that nods to oriental herbal medicine. Therapies run the gamut from Ayurveda to Thai Massage and incorporate cupping, pressure points and herbal compresses. Given the 12-hour journey from the UK, the Jet Lag Relief Therapy is by far the best way to arrive at Sun Peninsula. The massages here are fantastically deep and intense. As such, request “firm” pressure at your own peril. Ahmed Zambarakji

Good for: A romantic getaway. Bad for: Vegetarians, speedy customer service. Don’t forget: A day trip to Hoi An where you can get a bespoke suit made in 24 hours. Don’t leave without: Antacids. Rooms from £288 a night based on two people sharing. Bai Bac, SonTra Peninsula, Danang City, Vietnam. +84 511 393 8888. danang.intercontinental.com

Out of this world: Lab Series has been redefining men’s grooming since 1987 with its high performance and scientifically advanced skincare products. Its brand new release is Max LS Maxellence, which includes an innovative, space-powered Dual Concentrate and Singular Cream. And they really do mean space-powered, as the formulas include extracts from meteorites that contain a concentrated dose of anti-aging ingredients. When applied to skin, the deep-space black cream is immediately absorbed, which leaves you with a hydrated and glowing complexion. FACT: The products’ distinctive scent features an accord of the extremely rare Shima lemon and is inspired by the Ogasawara Islands of Japan – a group of 30 volcanic islands 600 miles south of Tokyo known for their unique flora. CC Max LS Maxellence Duel Concentrate, £130. Singular Cream, £105. Both by Lab Series. labseries.co.uk

After nearly 24 hours in the air, rejuvenating spa treatments are a priority: fortunately, the Ritz-Carlton in Bali is well-placed to provide them. The resort is a tropical daydream, set over 30 acres of manicured lawns, dotted with frangipani and fringed by a golden beach. Its 313 super-luxe rooms and villas are filled with local artefacts, and the stillness is broken only by the hum of buggies ferrying guests around the grounds. The wellness spa is utterly serene, too, surrounded by Balinese gardens. It looks to the Indian Ocean for inspiration – expect water therapies and ocean-essence tea, plus seaweed (for cell renewal), sand (for exfoliation) and pearls (for skin radiance). Iridescent Delight harnesses the power of the latter: a pearl polish is followed by a pure pearl body wrap, hardening around you like a sugar shell. A Shine Renewal massage follows leaving you with the smoothest skin you’ve ever felt. Jennifer Bradly Good for: Completely forgetting your nine-to-five routine. Bad for: Buzzing nightlife. Don’t forget: A champagne breakfast on your terrace. Don’t leave without: Seeing the sun rise from the beach. Rooms from £775 a night based on two people sharing. Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan Lot III, Sawangan, Nusa Dua, Bali 80363, Indonesia. +62 361 849 8988. ritzcarlton.com Calm abiding: Meditations at the Ritz-Carlton, Bali


A VERY BRITISH AFFAIR


The G Preview:February E D I T E D BY

HOLLY ROBERTS

Bringing you the very latest in fashion, grooming, watches, news and exclusive events

1

Backpack by Salvatore Ferragamo, £1,185. ferragamo.com 2 Leather jacket by Gant, £895. gant.co.uk 3 Leather pouch by Smythson, £325. smythson.com L.U.C. Full Strike watch by Chopard, £192,110. chopard.co.uk 6 Raincoat by Sandro, £399. sandro-paris.com 4 Sweatshirt by Next, £35. next.co.uk 5 Fahrenheit Cologne by Dior, 200ml for £92.50. Dior.com. At Selfridges. selfridges.com 7 Trainers by Dolce & Gabbana, £430. dolcegabbana.com 8 9 Slippers by Billionaire, £440. At Harrods. harrods.com

88 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017


PREVIEW

We love

Calvin Klein Jeans

For the ultimate in trans-seasonal style, look no further than Calvin Klein Jeans. Bag yourself wearable essentials in muted tones and update classic shapes by investing in luxurious textures. But the key for this time of year is to become the master of layering. Throw this buttery soft suede and denim trucker jacket over a simple white crew neck T-shirt or your finest chambray shirt and team with a pair of dark denim jeans. It’s official, layering never looked more luxurious and Calvin Klein Jeans is your one stop shop.

Photograph Jody Todd Edited by Holly Roberts Junior Retail Editor Michiel Steur

Jacket, £455. Shirt, £70. Both by Calvin Klein Jeans. calvinklein.com


To celebrate the launch of the 10th annual GQ Watch and Jewellery Guide, friends of the brand gathered together in The Royal Exchange’s exquisite Threadneedle Bar. While enjoying a selection of canapés from D&D London, guests toasted to a decade of unrivalled watch content.

THE GOODIE BAG

Kevin Boltman and Robert Johnston

Guests went home with the following items

Cocktails by D&D London

Katerina Constanti, Raphael Mingham and Kirstee Wilson

Vanessa Kingori and Bill Prince

Craig Leach, Del Randhawa and Marcus Braybrook

Card case by Ettinger, £130. ettinger.co.uk

No. 33 eau de cologne by Penhaligon’s, £92 for 100ml. penhaligons.com

Maria Santillana, Laura De Castiglioni, Daniel Compton and Rima Taha

Vikki Theo, Ianthe Hylton and Jordan Lassman

No.33 moisturiser by Penhaligon’s, £38 for 75ml. penhaligons.com


Jerome Mackay and Zanny Gilchrist

Threadneedle Bar, The Royal Exchange Amanda Clarke and Colin Lee

Priscilla Besquet

Marie Grove-Walton and Eilidh Macdonald

Pierre Gueguin

Doria Benheddi and Amandine Hammari

PREVIEW

Giorgio Cardone and Antonella Santapa


TECH NEWS WITH REAL IMPACT Ars Technica, founded in 1998, is the world’s most influential technology website and community, providing deep analysis and impartial reporting of the confluence of science, technology, policy, and the Internet.

Ars Technica UK builds upon these 17 years of experience, with high-quality journalism that spans the width and breadth of UK and Europe. “Ars comes up with insight that no one else has.” Sergey Brin, cofounder, Google

ARSTECHNICA.CO.UK


E D I T E D BY

PHOTOGRAPH BY

BILL PRINCE

Jody Todd

This time around

it would be nice to see another LVMH watch brand pick up the same prize this year. Zenith certainly has the heritage to produce any number of classical timepieces, but its revival of a military model created for the Italian Air Force is the coolest yet. Originally supplied by Zenith’s Rome-based distributor, A Cairelli, the CP-2 (“CP” being short for cronometro polso or “wrist chronometer”) was the second iteration of the model. The 2017 version comes in a slightly smaller case (42mm to the original’s 43mm) fitted with the house’s El Primero automatic movement, but otherwise stays true to its precursor – from the bi-compax layout of its sub-dials, to its superb black dial and white Arabic numerals. Produced in a run of just 2,500, original “Cairellis” are highly sought-after today, ensuring this re-edition of 1,000 will be snapped up in no time. BP

Zenith reincarnates its classical Cairelli for a new generation The growing interest in vintage watches has resulted in a concomitant appetite among manufacturers to revive their best designs, resulting in a pleasing amalgam of old-school aesthetics and today’s build quality. A case in point: at last November’s Grand Prix Horlogerie de Genève, the annual prize-giving for the Swiss watch industry, the award for best revival went to TAG Heuer’s Monza, a stalwart of its classic series of racing chronographs from the Seventies, given a dashing all-black makeover by its custodians at LVMH. And Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 by Zenith, £6,200. zenith-watches.com


LAST MAN STANDING SLUG

Tony PARSONS Smart casual is dead. Long live Savile Row

Fine suits are not the shackles the grey T-shirt brigade want you to believe. At the world’s most famous tailors, you’re granted the power to be the best man you can was looking for Chuka Umunna. It was two days before the EU Referendum and when I had seen the sharp-suited Labour MP for coffee at The Groucho Club the previous week, we had agreed to meet up backstage at Wembley Arena before the BBC’s live Great Debate. But there was a problem. There were two green rooms backstage at Wembley, segregated by your view on Brussels – one hospitality area for wild-eyed, mouthfoaming Eurosceptics like me and another for the pro-EU contingent like Umunna. Any contact with the other side was forbidden. But I wanted to see Umunna so I barged my way into the opposition’s green room and spotted him immediately. He was easily the bestdressed man in the room (once dubbed “GQ Man” by the Guardian). Even with his plate overloaded from the buffet, Umunna was looking good. Partly it is the way he carries himself – calm, relaxed, supremely confident – but also it is those bespoke suits he wears from Alexandra Wood on Savile Row. What is it about his impeccably tailored suits? They have an understated elegance, a quiet beauty and a cool modernity that feels no need to raise its voice. And although Umunna’s suits are made by one of the new generation of young female tailors on Savile Row, they bring with them almost two centuries of tradition. Lest we forget, they were quite literally made

Illustration Sam Kerr

for him. And you never wear a suit as good as the one that is made for you. Umunna and I greeted each other warmly, for there is a bond between men that can’t be sundered by mere political differences – not when you share the same tailor on Savile Row. They say that you should go to Savile Row

for a reason. You do not make that big move up to the finest bespoke tailoring in the world without a reason. You do not go because you merely want a suit. You don’t even go because you want the suit of a lifetime. You go to Savile Row because you are getting married to the love of your life, or because you are making a speech that must go well, or because you have a job interview that could be your career’s great tipping point. That’s when you go to Savile Row. Not when you have the money, but when you have the reason. My reason for going to Savile Row was my appearance at my 14-year-old daughter’s school as guest of honour on prize-giving day. I would have to listen to the headmistress say some kind things about me, hand out

You go to Savile Row when you have the reason, not the money

the prizes and make a speech that had to be funny, inspirational and age-appropriate to a hall full of high-flying, academically brilliant teenage girls – including my daughter – and their overachieving parents. And I would probably be doing it after a couple of glasses of wine. Naturally, I was terrified. The possibility of doing something that might mortify my daughter was awful. Clearly, I would need to be on top of my game. Obviously, this was the time to have a suit made on Savile Row. But where to go? That short, canyon-like street in Mayfair is intimidating because its history is so deep – there have been bespoke tailors on Savile Row since 1803 and the time of Beau Brummell – and its options are varied. There is a police station at 27 Savile Row, while at the other end of the street, at 3 Savile Row, The Beatles played their last ever public performance on the rooftop of Apple Corps in 1969. Almost everything else on Savile Row is about lovingly crafted tailoring, although even here there are choices to be made between fully bespoke (literally “be spoken for”, meaning made for you from scratch), made-to-measure (where the tailor modifies pattern blocks to suit you, sir, and your shoulder width, arm length, inside leg and so on) and ready-to-wear (which can still set you back more than £2,000 for an entrylevel wool two-piece suit on this street of


LAST MAN STANDING dreams). To the neophyte, the options are bewildering. When GQ Associate Style Editor Nick Carvell wrote his guide to Savile Row, he listed almost 30 tailors, from Gieves & Hawkes (a company that can trace its lineage back to the 18th century) to Huntsman (founded in the 19th century as a “gaiter and breeches maker”) to icons of the 20th century such as Jeff Banks, Ozwald Boateng, Nick Tentis, Richard James and Chester Barrie. Even No13 Savile Row boasts three tailors: in the basement (Stowers Bespoke), on the ground floor (Richard Anderson) and first floor (Cad & The Dandy). I approached Savile Row from the opposite direction. Other well-dressed men will help you decide the look you want when you marry the girl, or go for the job interview, or make that speech to the all-girls school. And the truth is that – although they all look lovely – some of us will never aspire to the sockless cool of Calvin Harris, or the hippie chic of James Bay, or the old-school vibe of the Duke of Edinburgh. But I always loved the way that Chuka Umunna dresses – fresh, sleek but deadly serious. And so I made my way to 9-10 Savile Row and Alexandra Wood. ast summer, JP Morgan, possibly the world’s leading bank, sent a memo to its 237,000 staff announcing that its strict dress code was being downgraded to “business casual” to reflect changes in the world and “the way we work”. Suits and ties were out. The polo shirt and chinos were in. Flip-flops and saggy T-shirts were probably just around the corner. The Financial Times was aghast. “Casual Friday has engineered a hostile takeover and consolidated the other four days,” said the FT, going on to ask the big question: why should any man wear a suit? Some of the most successful businessmen who ever lived abhor the suit. Two years ago, at his first public Q&A at Facebook’s HQ in San Francisco, Mark Zuckerberg revealed why he wears a grey T-shirt every day for work. And it is because he believes that thinking about clothes is “frivolous”. “I really want to clear my life so that I have to make as few decisions as possible about anything except how to best serve this community,” Zuckerberg said, sporting a grey T-shirt. “I feel like I’m not doing my job if I spend any of my energy on things that are silly or frivolous about my life, so that way I can dedicate

L  

96 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

all of my energy towards just building the best product and services.” Zuckerberg was saying he was only truly to himself if he never gave a thought to what he was wearing. But the man who buys a suit on Savile Row has exactly the opposite experience. It is when you wear this immaculately tailored suit that you feel most like yourself. I have the same relationship to my suits by Alexandra Wood – and I am up to four now – that I imagine Iron Man has to his superhero costume. My Savile Row suits are armour, a weapon and beautifully crafted uniform that I put on when I do what life needs me to do. Savile Row is expensive and yet it is always a bargain – this is the greatest kit you will wear in your lifetime, and you will wear it again and again, and you will eventually cart your old ready-made suits off to Oxfam because once you have worn a suit from Savile Row it is almost impossible to go back. “Looking at your skin tone, body shape and personality, we can

It’s when you wear a tailored suit that you feel most yourself create a suit that makes you look fresher and slimmer,” runs the Alexandra Wood manifesto. “A suit with a fashionable edge, which will have you walking that little bit taller.” When JP Morgan was telling its staff that suits no longer matter in the modern world, the FT was happy to disagree. “Formal clothes prop us up,” it said. “And we need it.” Indeed we do. I went to Savile Row with a reason. I wanted a suit that would give me the confidence to make a success of what could have been a difficult night. I wanted it to be a runaway success, I wanted to inspire those students to never give up on their dreams and above all I wanted my daughter to be proud that I am her father. That is asking a hell of a lot from an item of clothing. But it worked. “If the bankers abandon it, who will be

left to support the ancient and august institution of the men’s suit?” asked the FT. “The lawyers? People at funerals? Moustachewaxing hipsters?” The grey T-shirt brigade – the Zuckerberg wannabes, the dress-down Friday brigade, the smart casual crowd and now, it seems, JP

Morgan’s army of bankers – believe that men’s suits are restrictive, conformist, a uniform, old fashioned, an anachronism of the stuffy past, dial-up clothing in a digital world. The opposite is the case. A suit should not confine you. A suit should not stop you from expressing yourself, hem you in, stifle your creativity and make you conform to somebody else’s rules. A Savile Row suit – a bespoke suit from the mecca of tailored menswear – sets you free. When I put on my first Alexandra Wood suit – a blue Holland & Sherry Portofino wool two-piece with a black-and-silver skulland-crossbones lining – I felt like myself. As social convention relaxes its grip, men are no longer wearing a suit because we have to but because we want to. Because – when it is done well, made from hand, crafted for this moment in time but with two centuries of tradition behind it – nothing matches the power of a great suit. Turn to the men on this year’s GQ Best-Dressed List – Idris Elba, Mark Ronson, Michael Fassbender, Eddie Redmayne, Jack O’Connell – all would still be successful in a T-shirt; they would still catch the eye. But without those immaculately tailored suits, some of their stardust would quietly ebb away. “It is hard to be unimpressed by the miracle of tailoring,” GQ Luxury Editor Nick Foulkes has written about having suits made by Huntsman (11 Savile Row). “How a set of figures read off a measuring tape becomes something that almost lives – a second skin in which to feel supremely comfortable.” Foulkes is right – Savile Row suits feel less like regular clothes and more like a second skin. You do not so much wear a Savile Row suit as inhabit it. You go with a reason but having a suit made here is a gloriously selfish act. Ultimately, you do it for yourself. “Bespoke suits,” they promise at Alexandra Wood, “crafted for today’s gentleman.” The concept of the importance of a man carrying himself like a gentleman holds firm from one end of Savile Row (No1, Gieves & Hawkes) to the other (No41, William Hunt). The testimonials on the Alexandra Wood website are all from successful men – lawyers, a famous comedian, the next leader of the Labour Party. On this street they say that there are options for every budget, yet the suits they make on Savile Row never come cheap. But they are always worth it. And if you do not aspire to live this life in a grey T-shirt, then so are you.


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The ALASTAIR

CAMPBELL interview

Tom Watson

After last summer’s ugly civil war, Labour’s fortunes remain with a leader who keeps even his deputy in the dark. From one party bruiser to another, we find out what – if anything – goes on behind closed doors...

‘Our best people are not on the front bench but they are contributing to the debate’ 98 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017


ALASTAIR CAMPBELL Rising tide: A standing ovation for Tom Watson’s keynote speech at the Labour Party conference goes unobserved by leader Jeremy Corbyn, 27 September 2016

This just in... Labour’s deputy leader finds himself as that most curious of political creatures – a former radical who now represents the status quo. A member of Tony Blair’s government, the 49-year-old later supported Gordon Brown’s shift away from New Labour, yet now finds himself as a rare centrist voice in Jeremy Corbyn’s far-left shadow cabinet. He made his Photograph Getty Images

name with his vigorous campaign against Rupert Murdoch in the phone-hacking scandal and has built a reputation in Westminster as something of a fixer, albeit one put to the test when he was forced to return from Glastonbury Festival last summer as it emerged Corbyn was facing a leadership coup. SM

IT’S FAIR to say there is a little bit of history between me and Tom Watson. He was the chair of Young Labour when I first knew him in the mid-Nineties, a bright, energetic campaigner. By our second term he was an MP with a reputation as a fixer and by our third a minister in Tony Blair’s government. By then he was very much a Brownite in the debilitating Blair-Brown struggles, and when it emerged he was putting his name to a letter from MPs urging Blair to step down, a stance clearly incompatible with being a minister, he resigned. When it emerged he had been at Gordon Brown’s home in Fife the day before the round robin letter was despatched to Blair, it was clear he was at the centre of a full-blown leadership crisis for the prime minister. Mythology has it that he was only there to deliver books and DVDs for Brown’s new-born baby – something he is keen to rebut, as you shall learn by reading to the end. Yet to those who fear that Jeremy Corbyn risks making Labour unelectable, the rebel turned deputy leader is now viewed as something of a symbol of stability in these tumultuous, unpredictable times (albeit one perhaps less centrally involved, it would appear, than I had imagined). He is also someone who has shown a capacity for effective campaigning, most notably when taking on the Murdoch empire over phone-hacking. In any event, when we met in parliament, we put old rows (largely) behind us and focused on the question that worries us both these days – will Labour ever win again? Unusually, however, as the tape started, the first question came not from me, but from him. FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 99


TW: So before we start, Alastair, be

honest, if you were still our media advisor, would you have advised me to do this? AC: Absolutely, Tom. Fantastic opportunity to say to the country’s metrosexual elite why they should vote Labour. TW: OK. So there is still a belief out there that the country is too unequal. People need an empowering state to give them real opportunities in life. For 100 years Labour has been that vehicle for change and still is. AC: Now you be honest... is there any possibility of Labour winning the next election? TW: Yes. AC: Jeremy Corbyn being the prime minister? TW: Yes. AC: And is that a good thing or a bad thing? TW: A good thing. He will have a strong team around him. You and I have never known politics to be in such flux. Anything is possible.

A question of loyalty: Watson backs Corbyn’s performances at PMQs, 16 December 2015; (below) Corbyn and Watson stand together at a vigil for victims of the shooting in Orlando, Florida, 13 June 2016

You emphasised the team. Is Jeremy Corbyn not up to the job? AC:

TW: It is never just about the leader.

He needs a strong team. So did Tony, so did Gordon and Ed. The leader becomes the embodiment. AC: When François Hollande smelled the coffee and threw in the towel, you didn’t think, “Why can’t our leader do that?” TW: I am sure if he hit four per cent approval ratings he would. AC: He didn’t go when he lost 80 per cent of his MPs. TW: We had the second leadership election. He won. It is tough, but our MPs have respected the decision of the members. We have to get on with it and fight with joy in our hearts. AC: You have joy in your heart? TW: Every day. [Smiles.] AC: Tell me about your Buddha-like posture at PMQs. TW: I can’t win. I smiled and laughed at the start and on social media they were saying I was laughing at Jeremy, 100 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

so now I just sit and listen. Now they say I am sullen. Maybe I need to smile more. AC: Is it weird to sit there and think, “Jeremy is our leader”? TW: No more weird than he probably thinks it is. AC: I think he has normalised it in his mind. He likes it. TW: I don’t think it ever feels normal. It doesn’t feel normal to be deputy, never mind leader. AC: Who’s been best at PMQs? TW: William Hague the most entertaining. David Cameron good at batting on sticky wickets. Tony good at getting on the front foot. AC: Jeremy? TW: The thing he does really well is he doesn’t let the goading get to him. He is always quite relaxed, knows what he has to say, doesn’t worry about the chamber reaction. He sticks to his message and you should take a look at the reaction on his Facebook page. Something else. AC: Why have we not defended the Labour government record more? Do you share my anger with Ed [Miliband] over that? TW: Did you see my Conference speech? [It was a strong defence of the record.] I may have resigned under Tony, but I am incredibly proud of what we delivered. In the polling now, when people are asked about our policies, such as the National Investment Bank, they like

it. When they hear it is Labour policy, not so much. That suggests trashing the brand is a bad idea. We should celebrate our record and should have celebrated it in Ed’s time as well. Lives are still being changed because of what we did. AC: But the government is pushing back the legacy all the time. TW: Actually, the obsession of the May people is to deconstruct the Cameron legacy. AC: Why are we still so far behind the Tories? TW: We both know how hard opposition it. Read Alastair Campbell’s diaries! They show you have to be disciplined and coalesce around a set of ideas. AC: Are we doing that? TW: We are not as disciplined as we should be. But the ideas are there. Remember, in 1997 we had not had a decade of austerity. I do think we need to be bolder on the economy. We have to accept immigration impacts on different parts of the economy in different ways. London responds differently to global change, so a future Labour government should look at regional governance, so English regions in particular can have greater control over their own destiny. AC: But you must have the same thing I do. People coming up to you the whole time asking what the hell is happening with Labour? What should I say?


ALASTAIR CAMPBELL

Photographs Leon Neal/Getty Images; PA Images; Rex/Shutterstock

TW: We have a lot to say on the

economy. Regional investment, skills, investing in the future. I was in Israel recently to look at their approach to innovation... AC: Come on! You were in Israel to apologise for the anti-Semitism. TW: I certainly did assure them we were dealing with that. I was ashamed of some of the anti-Semitic comments. But I was also looking at how Israel has built its tech economy and we can learn from it. AC: I can’t see John McDonnell buying anything from the Israelis. TW: He is actually very adroit at drawing ideas from others. As deputy leader, I have set up the Future Work Commission to look at the impact of automation on the labour market. AC: How often do you and Jeremy sit down to thrash out strategy? TW: I am not on his strategy committee. AC: Who is then? TW: I don’t know. AC: What? That is incredible. TW: That is how he is going to lead. That second election means he is the established leader. I am on the NEC and in the shadow cabinet but nobody should be in any doubt it will be his manifesto. He will lead in developing those policies and I will support him. One of the things I am doing is taking a more detailed look at policy to identify those tough issues we have not been able to grasp since 2010. The labour market, the gig economy, lower-end and middle-class jobs facing eradication through automation. AC: Sounds to me like you are being excluded because you don’t share his vision. TW: No, I sit on the shadow cabinet subcommittees but we do represent different Labour traditions and his is dominant. AC: But not with the public. TW: I do meet people who are disappointed with his leadership, but I meet others who are energised – not just party members, but voters we couldn’t reach before. AC: Do he and McDonnell get up every day and work their bollocks off like we did, to get the people we need to vote for us so that we can win? TW: I remember it all well. I remember your phone calls. They are slightly less eager, I would say.

Corbyn and McDonnell were eager enough during the leadership election. Why can’t they show that fight when it’s about the country?

AC:

TW: You’ll have to ask them. AC: Corbyn won’t do most of the

telly, never mind GQ. TW: Look at his Facebook feed.

From the horse’s mouth: Shadow chancellor John McDonnell has a Stakhanovite work ethic, says Watson, 15 September

Some days he reaches a third of the population. There is something going on out there, he manages to capture an essence others don’t and the second election settled that. AC: Was there actually an attempt to stage a coup? TW: Unfortunately, I think it was a disastrous reaction in the PLP to a mistimed sacking of Hilary Benn, rather than being premeditated. Had I not been in a field in Glastonbury I might have been able to persuade people to hold back. AC: And then get a change of leader later in the parliament? TW: Yes. I tried to negotiate that with Len McCluskey during that uncertain week. He had been dangling the possibility that Jeremy would go later in the parliament, then ruled it out publicly, though not in private meetings AC: Isn’t that a bad message – Len, not the most popular or attractive figure, sitting there telling you if Jeremy can stay or go? TW: It’s not a great picture, no. A lot of people would prefer he focused on being general secretary of his union, not the Labour Party. AC: Are you and Len still friends? TW: We haven’t exchanged a word since the talks broke down. AC: How does your relationship with John McDonnell work? TW: Through the usual channels. We don’t knock about socially, but we have straight conversations and he can take advice. AC: Is he eager to win? TW: He has a Stakhanovite work ethic, focused on his priorities. AC: Is he Jeremy’s most important strategic advisor? TW: He is among the key people but you would expect that for the shadow chancellor.

AC: And Diane Abbott gives strategic advice? TW: She certainly gives advice. AC: When McDonnell and I were on Question Time, I got the feeling he hates people like me way more than the Tories, because for him power in the party is more important than power in the country. TW: What I find disturbing is the way people wrap up a period in political history and embody it in people like you or Tony; it’s very unfair and shows a lack of understanding. AC: Is he less motivated to get rid of the Tories than he is by his position in the party? TW: I don’t know actually. After the leadership election I think there is a focus on the potential for an early general election and it has shelved those internal debates. AC: Why should Theresa May want an early election? She thinks she can beat Jeremy whenever it is. TW: Let me give you the counter view. I think she has a sense of integrity that is deep. She feels a duty to take the country to 2020, but there is a dawning realisation she can’t do it with the backbenchers she has and the people she has on the front bench doing Brexit. Liam Fox is only in the cabinet because he leads a faction of 15 and she has a majority of 13. You cannot reconcile Fox and Ken Clarke, so she will face real pressure to seek another mandate to deliver the Brexit deal she will get. There is definitely a lack of leadership on Brexit. She has built in institutional flaws by appointing Boris Johnson and Fox and David Davis. It is impossible to get clarity with those three. AC: Do we have similarly irreconcilable differences in Labour? TW: Not irreconcilable. We are broadly still a Remain party. But there is an obligation to deliver on what the people voted for. AC: But if MPs decide we are heading for a car crash, do they not have a duty to stand up and say so? TW: They have a duty to respect the vote, to trigger Article 50, then keep options open. AC: What would happen if there was an early election and we put the pro-Remain case? TW: That would be very unwise for a party that wants to govern for the 100 per cent, not the 48. The FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 101


debate is very different in London to the Midlands and the North. We have to listen to these voters. AC: How much was the vote really about Europe though? TW: I don’t buy this line about voters being misled or not knowing what they were doing. They gave a clear instruction to leave. AC: So when Diane Abbott goes big on pro-immigration? TW: There does need to be far more shadow cabinet discussion on this as we get closer to an election. AC: Talk me through how the shadow cabinet functions. TW: It meets every week, an agenda of policy issues, some times good debate, other times less deep because of time pressure, same as with Tony and Gordon. As deputy leader one thing I am determined on is that we do not run away from issues people care about, like security and immigration. The status quo cannot prevail. There are some exciting ideas that people are musing on. Sadiq Khan and Yvette Cooper have talked about things like London-only immigration. These are nascent ideas. We should have debated them in the first year of the last parliament. We must have a proper debate now. AC: Do you not worry the country has just decided Corbyn is not a PM? TW: I do worry about that because I read the polls. But people are in discomfort with the current political system and in a funny sort of way Jeremy is an expression of that peeling away from the system. So yes, some people may already have made up their minds. But is it still all to play for? No doubt. Is there some essence to Jeremy that is not quite definable but makes him unique? There is, and you cannot rule out anything. AC: I agree he is unique. TW: Glad we agree. AC: Is there a danger that we face an existential threat? TW: I am 50, the youngest age cohort that really remembers the Eighties, I worked as a teenager for the party. AC: You were head of Young Labour during the Clause IV debate. TW: Indeed. I got a sentence in the Campbell diaries, the only kind sentence you wrote about me. I have always said we have no God-given right to exist. But will we exist in ten years? I believe so. AC: As a governing party? 102 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

TW: I believe we will govern again. There is a really good

breed of new MPs, a cauldron of ideas bubbling up. We never cracked the question “how do we renew?” in government. It takes individuals who go away and read and think in an atmosphere of calm, and you don’t see it in TV interviews but that new thinking is going on, deep ideas, we have not done it since the early- to mid-Nineties. AC: But Jeremy feels like a past not future person. TW: If you don’t capture the future you’re never going to win. And if you only critique the present without solutions, you’re also toast. That is the challenge. Some of our best people are not on the front bench but they are contributing to the debate too. AC: Does he want them all involved? TW: I don’t know who he offered jobs to. AC: He didn’t discuss the shadow cabinet with you? TW: No. He discussed my job with me, not the others. AC: Is it very frustrating? TW: It could easily be, but there is no rule book to how you do the deputy leader role, and when I worked for Tony and Gordon it wasn’t always easy. AC: Is your working relationship weaker or stronger since the second leadership election? TW: Different. I am not as close to his team, but I talk to him by text and phone more. We get on well. He has a wry sense of humour and he has never tried to stop me saying anything I don’t feel is right.

Is it settled Corbyn will lead the party at the next election? AC:

TW: Yes. AC: Is that a good thing or a bad thing? TW: It doesn’t matter; that is the situation. I made my

position clear, gave private counsel, based on the fact it was difficult to lead without the confidence of a majority of MPs, but he took a different view, the membership backed him and we have to respect that. AC: He only seems to have shown real energy during the leadership elections. TW: He was up against it. He is definitely capable of a gruelling agenda. More than most. He can run up four flights of stairs faster than the rest of us. AC: Does he really have a visceral desire to be PM? TW: Don’t think he isn’t driven. He is. He just takes a different route. AC: That Question Time was in Wiltshire and I asked McDonnell what was the strategy to win places like that. Call the shots: At a TW: They don’t have that select committee approach, the obsession we had hearing, Watson grills Rupert with marginal seats, maybe we were Murdoch about too obsessional; they don’t think phone-hacking at his papers, 2011 about that niche of swing voter,

they’re more broad brush, paint on a big canvas. AC: But the public see mainly Corbyn, McDonnell, Abbott. Are they the right people to appeal to swing voters? TW: Look, I am not going to disagree. The central challenge is making sure what Jeremy stands for is boiled down and clear and put over by the team, not just him. AC: Was Leveson a waste of time? TW: No, we haven’t finished yet. I was disappointed at [culture secretary] Karen Bradley’s whitewash on the consultation, but some of the most serious allegations, for example on police corruption, are yet to be explored. AC: Rupert Murdoch seems to be as powerful as ever. TW: I am rarely generous to Murdoch but I think it fair to say a News Corp title would not hack phones in the future. AC: They’ll do other stuff. TW: I couldn’t put hand on heart and say they would never do something egregious, but I do think there has been some, limited progress. There must be a proper independent self-regulator. IPSO is just the PCC again, toothless. AC: Ed Balls on Strictly. Discuss. TW: What a hero. AC: You don’t find it depressing that to be popular in politics, you have to do that? TW: No. As an ex-politician, he did a bold move. My kids loved it, the nation loved it, I voted for him three times. AC: Could he come back into politics on the back of it? TW: It would make it easier to come back if he wanted to. He showed a side not previously revealed. AC: Finally, why did you try to push TB out? TW: I lost confidence in him. I actually felt he had lost confidence in himself. AC: Now be honest again, when you went to see Gordon in Fife, you were not delivering kids’ books. TW: No, I wasn’t. I was delivering a Babygro for Gordon’s new baby. AC: You could have posted it. TW: Yes, but we didn’t. Had I known then what I know now, I would have posted it. AC: So it was not a meeting to plot against Tony? TW: No. It was a Babygro.

Photograph PA Images

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Story Eleanor Halls Photographs Jody Todd Grooming Fiona Simon at S Management

Jeans “I’ve been wearing these Levi’s jeans for five years. They’re made with proper selvedge denim so they’re worth taking care of. You should always repair quality possessions.” £170. levi.com

Trainers “I have several pairs of Converse because when I see something I like, I get a lot of it. I also love to wear Dr Martens.” £65. At Schuh. schuh.co.uk

WISH LIST

Bag “Filson bags are great for photographers because they’re full of pockets. I always pack a notebook, my fountain pen and a Whistles baseball cap alongside my camera essentials.” £245. filson.com

WISH LIST

Shoes “I prefer smart shoes to trainers because they make me stand up straighter and appear more confident.” By Thom Browne, £970. At oki-ni.com

WISH LIST

Pen “I try and use pen and paper often. An Aspinal Of London pen looks great in the pocket of a suit jacket.” £280. aspinaloflondon.com


5-6 APRIL 2017, MUSCAT, OMAN SHANGRI-LA BARR AL JISSAH RESORT & SPA

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SPEAKERS INCLUDE:

Alber Elbaz

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CEO, Jimmy Choo

TOPICS TO BE DISCUSSED INCLUDE: HOW CAN LUXURY GOODS COMPANIES REIGNITE CONSUMER DESIRE?

Noor Fares

Elie Saab

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ARE FRAGRANCES AND ACCESSORIES STILL THE ENGINE OF GROWTH? WHAT IS THE NEW DYNAMIC IN THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN DESIGNERS AND BRANDS? WHERE ARE THE NEXT LUXURY RETAIL HOTSPOTS? HOW IS TECHNOLOGY CONTINUING TO RESHAPE LUXURY?

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Boost your barware and imbibe good taste with distinctive cut crystal and chrome or copper accessories EDITED BY

AARON CALLOW PHOTOGRAPH BY

MITCH PAYNE

4 2

3 5 1

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With thanks to Glenmorangie

8 1

Cooler by Nick Munro, £49. At Houseology. houseology.com

2 Cooler by Life Of Riley, £160. At Houseology. houseology.com 3 Bowl by Robert Welch, £35. At Houseology. houseology.com 4 Carafe, £100. Decanter, £165. Hi ball, £70 for two. All by Waterford. waterford.co.uk 5 Decanter, £295. Hi ball, £110 for two. Both by Waterford. waterford.co.uk 6 Whiskey rocks by Sparq, £22.50. At Forma House. formahouse.co.uk 7 Cheese board by Just Slate, £22. Dome by LSA. Both at Houseology. houseology.com 8 Coaster tower by Sparq, £31.50. At Forma House. formahouse.co.uk 9 Tumbler by Waterford, £110 for two. waterford.co.uk

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You can download the GQ iPhone edition at no extra cost If you have bought the tablet edition or are a print subscriber, simply search for ‘GQ’ in the App Store and download for free


Feb

2017

‘Here we are, looking at the edge of the Western world’ David Hockney. Page 112

Gathering an extensive selection of the artist’s most famous works, Tate Britain celebrates David Hockney with an exhibition spanning six decades and a variety of disciplines, from painting, print and drawing to photography and video. 9 February – 29 May 2017. tate.org.uk

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The light fantastic: David Hockney in his Los Angeles studio, 1988

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STORY BY Jonathan

Bi ll Pr in ce

Take a trip through the Californian sun via the personal landmarks of Britain’s most mercurial artist

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Photograph David Montgomery/Getty Images

Art, Music, Sport, Politics, Films, Books + the best opinion for the month ahead


9%

Chance of a Labour majority in 2020, says a UK Polling report

Catching Corbyn When Jeremy Corbyn trounced Owen Smith in last summer’s leadership election, a joke went around his supporters: “Same time next year?” so bullish were they that they baited moderates to mount another challenge. But is anyone brave enough to step up to the mark?

POLITICS

LABOUR HAS TO RUN JUST TO STAND STILL In a system that has always loaded the dice in the Conservatives’ favour, an unelectable opposition is bad news for democracy STORY BY George Chesterton

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Corbyn’s words, “an electoral mountain to climb”. Labour’s existence is predicated on a socio-economic condition which is no longer with us: not poverty or inequality, which are as pressing as they were when the party was formed in 1900, but the massed ranks of a politicised workforce. The Tories’ existence is predicated on a state of mind. The protean Conservatives shift with, sometimes nudge, the centre ground: they adapt and survive. Theresa May made an explicit land grab for her definition of the “centre” during her first speech as leader at the party conference last October. Turnout is another in-built advantage. In 2015, only 43 per cent of 18 to 24-year-old’s voted, whereas turnout was 78 per cent among over 65s. In both groups one party outscored the other 2:1 (no prizes for guessing which). And there’s always fresh blood to offset dying Daily Mail readers – young people can be just as prone to the self-interested anxiety over money, law and order and immigration that it is assumed push so many older voters to the right. To quote an old Guardian colleague of mine, “Scratch a hipster, get a Tory.” Labour endured major splits in the Thirties, Fifties and Eighties. A fourth is now a real possibility. These splits, revived in the fires currently burning through their credibility, demonstrate the preference for ideological solipsism over power. The Conservatives suffer from no such scruples. For them it’s always power first, ideology second. They have been divided over Europe for generations, yet won two elections they had no right to, in 1992 and 2015, as well as dominating the 2010 coalition. It is telling that amid the tumult of the EU referendum, the Tories emerged stronger than

A definite talent – tipped for the leadership since becoming an MP

Needs more frontline experience

Illustration Ryan Mcelderry/Mediaworks

WO YEARS ago I found myself sitting opposite a prospective Conservative candidate for a constituency in Lancashire. He was in despair. David Cameron was hated by the locals. “Too metropolitan,” he said. “Out of touch. He’ll ruin us.” “I doubt it,” I said. “What do you mean?” “Well, you’re Tories. You’ll find a way to make it work.” A year later they won a general election. After a wild, transformative 2016, it illustrates a great theme of British politics: Conservatives have a self-defence mechanism, whereas Labour has a death wish. The lives of Britain’s major parties are punctuated by schism, but the roots of the Conservatives’ ability to ride out trouble go back a long way. Benjamin Disraeli’s gamble on the 1867 Reform Act (which enfranchised working-class men) took a bite out of the Labour heartland before Labour even existed. By making an appeal to conservative-minded workers (historically about a third), Disraeli’s One Nation Conservatism has never really been trumped. Nye Bevan expressed its genius with typical venom in 1952: “How can wealth persuade poverty to use its political freedom to keep wealth in power? Here lies the whole art of Conservative politics.” The left has to earn votes, whereas their opponents can hoover up the unsure and unsympathetic or those whose primary, perhaps only, concerns are family, job and home. The “shy Tories” of the 2015 general election were people for whom the postThatcher contract of small-businesses and home-ownership was working out rather nicely thank you. Labour has always had, in Jeremy


Young, fresh and sensible with the potential to unite and even win over the left Will Corbyn groom Lewis as his successor or will he strike him down and cling on

Has the financial muscle, with a war chest paid for by wealthy supporters Some Labour MPs doubt if he can walk the walk

Miliband wants to leave the US and return to frontline British politics Some believe his metropolitan Blairism is as old hat as Corbyn’s Eighties socialism

they have been at any time since 1992, whereas Labour, for whom Europe was barely an issue, endured a vote of no confidence in the leader and civil war in the constituencies. Until recently, Ukip was seen as a parasite feeding on a lily-livered Cameron administration. We now know Ukip is more dangerous to what remains of Labour’s brittle heartlands. Scotland is already lost to the SNP. Factor in an overwhelmingly supportive media – with only two left-leaning newspapers and an establishment-friendly BBC – plus helpful boundary changes and the dice is always loaded in the Conservatives’ favour. This means a badly run, fractious Tory party can still win elections. A Labour party in the same state, without any of these advantages, never can. Labour has no meaning if it has no morality, but if it luxuriates outside power it is a dishonest morality, since it refuses to help those it purports to represent. If fellow travellers feel Labour is making itself unelectable how must this seem to outsiders? There are grave doubts about the competence of an inner circle that too often appears like an am-dram society at the National Theatre. Kerry McCarthy MP said of her leader: “I have never seen Jeremy move beyond things you could fit on a T shirt.” The muchvaunted energy of the new members has brought with it cultish paranoia, anti-Semitism, threats and, in some cases, stupidity. Whenever a wannabe firebrand yells, “We don’t want Tory votes”, or deputy leader Tom Watson is booed at conference for saying, “We need to win elections”, the distance between this fantasy island and the mainland grows a little wider. The emotionalism of “the movement” defies all scrutiny. The notion that this Labour can bring about a landslide to match its 1945 victory is nonsense – that occurred in a unique post-war context of reconstruction. For the most vainglorious believers, compromise and consensus are dirty words and those beyond the pale – or “scum” as they call them – make up three-quarters of the population. You would be forgiven for suspecting that the hardcore don’t believe in parliamentary democracy at all, but rather see themselves as actors in a grand historical narrative – a most dangerous delusion. They do not represent old or new Labour, but some mutation of the left generally – activism rather than power, detail free, dissent free, fact free. Not a party of government and as an official opposition almost invisible. There is no appetite for revolution, but that doesn’t mean there is no appetite for change. Corbyn’s Labour have confused the two, just as they have confused mass rallies and membership with winning elections. It’s hard enough to challenge the Conservatives with a fair wind. Look out the window, Labour, your country needs you.

‘A badly run, fractious Tory party can still win elections. A Labour party in the same state never can’

? Umunna wants the job, briefing journalists that the Tories are scared of him His unpopularity among Labour MPs is a major stumbling block Alex Wickham

This just… er, not in Milo Yiannopoulos, the alt-right controversialist who writes for conservative news site breitbart.com, likes to pillory those who take offence when he attacks feminists, Muslims or the politically correct.

Protest at one of his talks, and you’ll likely be labelled a “snowflake” – over-sensitive, beholden to emotions (“F*** your feelings,” he recently told a heckler). So when GQ approached Yiannopoulos over email for an interview we were surprised at his response: “After that clusterf*** of a hit piece you published by Rupert Myers? Dream on.” He was referring to an article on GQ.co.uk, in which Myers, the site’s political correspondent, criticised Yiannopoulos’ behaviour. We asked Yiannopoulos what he was afraid of. His reply: “I'm not afraid of anyone. But GQ UK is banned.” Hit piece? Banned? It sounds as if this self-proclaimed “free speech fundamentalist” is turning into quite the snowflake himself.


ART

Hockney’s LA

A far cry from his Bradford roots, Britain’s most colourful artist first sought the bright lights of LA in 1964. We retrace the signs he’s left there of his vivid imagination STORY BY Jonathan

s David Hockney the most adored, most influential living British artist of our time? It would be hard to think of someone whose work is quite so ubiquitous; hardly a year goes by without a major exhibition or retrospective. In December, Hockney, his life and work, was given the Taschen treatment with a sumo-sized monograph entitled (what else?) A Bigger Book. Spectacular in both its size and scope the bespectacled artist – in league with the coffeetable doyens – puffs his way through 60 years of art, cigarettes and oils: from his teenage days at Bradford School Of Art through to his time in Sixties Swinging London, to LA, the iPad and beyond. Next month there’s even more noise as Tate Britain opens the Yorkshireman’s most comprehensive exhibition to date, all leading up to Hockney’s 80th birthday in July. Seems like 2017 already belongs to one artist. If there’s another way to get to know Hockney, however, it’s through Los Angeles – preferably by car – the city he made his home over four decades. For Hockney, LA will always be a place of glamour, light and freedom. “I moved here in 1964,” he says. “I didn’t know a soul. I got a little apartment and I thought, ‘This is the place to be – the land of swimming pools.’” Take a drive – see right for suggested POIs – and dive in to Hockney’s own Hollywood. David Hockney is at Tate Britain from 9 February – 29 May. tate.org.uk

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18 Jan

21 Jan

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ILLUSTRATION BY Jitesh

The Malibu beach house You can visit Hockney’s beach house on the rolling Pacific. “Here we are looking at the edge of the western world,” he once said. If access is tricky, Little Beach House Malibu is but minutes away. 22716 Pacific Coast Highway. 001 310 456 2400. littlebeach housemalibu.com

“My Wagner Drive” Made in 1990, Hockney – who was so often in his car in this city – created a 90-minute Wagner soundtrack (mostly Parsifal) to accompany his drive between Malibu and the Hollywood Hills. “It matches everything the eye sees and the ear hears.” Although hard to find the original, use Spotify to create your own.

Lawry’s One of Hockney’s favourite restaurants, Lawry’s is still swinging. Friend and fellow Brit artist Howard Hodgkin wrote this in his diary after they dined there: “Instant England with panelling, family portraits, [a] long wait... Largest plates of roast beef. Exhausted.” 234 East Colorado Boulevard. 001 888 552 9797. lawrysonline.com

LONDON ART FAIR: Great for first-time collectors, if it’s young and edgy you’re after, go straight to the Art Projects section. 18-22 January. Business Design Centre, 52 Upper Street, London, N1. londonartfair.co.uk MARTIN CREED AT HARRIS MUSEUM & ART GALLERY: Signature works by the Turner Prize-winner, whose 2000 piece “The Lights Going On And Off” delighted and infuriated. 21 January - 1 June. Market Square, Preston, PR1 2PP. harrismuseum.org.uk

Patel

LA Louver Whenever Hockney exhibits in LA it’s at this small gallery found but a fist pump from Muscle Beach. The artist often pops in so it’s worth swinging by, if anything for the shopping on Abbot Kinney Boulevard, five minutes north. 45 North Venice Boulevard. 001 310 822 4955. lalouver.com


LITERATURE Nichols Canyon Hockney’s once daily drive from his home on MontCalm Avenue to his studio on Santa Monica Boulevard opened his eyes to a new way of painting the city. “With driving up and down in a little open car you sensed how big it was, how it was above you, how you were small and it zoomed up on either side.” Painted from memory, “Nichols Canyon” (1980) was this first piece in this new style.

The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel pool The Roosevelt has long been intertwined with LA mythology, not least as the place where a certain Norma Jean (soon to become Marilyn Monroe) first checked in. Hockney painted the pool’s famous blue “squiggles” in 1987 and you can still paddle in the refurbished original. 7000 Hollywood Boulevard. 001 323 856 1970. thehollywood roosevelt.com

Dana Spiotta’s Innocents And Others (Macmillan, £14.99) lands in the UK having been lavished with praise in the US as the great film industry novel of our time. It’s certainly an inspired sleight of hand, partly based on the shadowy Hollywood legend Miranda Grosvenor, who through a series of prank calls in the Eighties convinced several Hollywood players they were in love with the woman the voice projected. The fictional version here is a lonely, plump woman called Jelly, who invents a similarly elusive beauty she calls Nicole. Rewardingly saturated in films and filmmaking, Innocents And Others is just as interested in the fictive elements of private lives. As Spiotta observes of one of Jelly/Nicole’s regular break-ups: “Being left was bottomless. Not only in the moment but in the way it gave the lie to all the moments that preceded it... Is love real and true only if it continues? Was it revealed to be ‘not love’ when it unravelled?” But if LA really is the city with the greatest capacity for loneliness when things unravel, then Adam O’Riordan’s misfits provide ideal company the next time you find yourself mooching along the boardwalk. The British poet was himself once the kind of visitor to LA described in the opener to his short story collection, The Burning Ground (Bloomsbury, £16.99), in which a man paces an empty rental house in Venice Beach, cigarette butts littering the terrace “like the droppings of a caged bird”. But far from not knowing what to do with himself, O’Riordan wilfully mines the less glossy side of LA, and ordinary lives gone wrong, with haunting effect. Olivia Cole

...to the first Trumpian novel

Lacma There are few Hockney artworks in LA’s galleries, but at Los Angeles County Museum Of Art one can see two treasures: “Mulholland Drive: The Road To The Studio” (1980), and “Woman In Fur” (1978). 5905 Wilshire Boulevard. 001 323 857 6010. lacma.org

From la-la land, with love and squalor...

A cherry-red Mercedes Having moved from the north of England to Los Angeles in 1964, Hockney needed a car to match his canvases. His choice for meandering through the Hollywood Hills? A red Mercedes SL280 Pagoda, yours to hire (or buy if you’ve got a spare $40,000) from Beverley Hills Car Club. beverleyhillscarclub.com

In the coinage of GQ’s Michael Wolff, 2016 will be remembered as the year “the data died”, but great fiction can still take us aback. Look to The Nix (Macmillan, £16.99), a debut by Iowa-born, Floridabased Nathan Hill, for a case in point. Not only dramatising America’s great tussle between minority interests and Midwestern grievances, it even features a rogue presidential candidate who talks about immigrants as though they are coyotes damaging crops, perfecting “a sort of preacher-slashcowboy pathos”. But it’s the human drama of a relationship between a son and his mother (too busy protesting in the Sixties to bring him up) that will keep you hooked while you think. OC


It’s Oscars season, so of course Matthew McConaughey is here with another statue-tempting film. And while he grabbed his 2014 Oscar by slimming down to a mobile skeleton in Dallas Buyers’ Club, in Gold he’s doing the opposite: welcome the McConaupaunch, as he gained 40 pounds to play tubby, bald, failing businessman Kenny Wells, who teams up with a geologist to hunt for gold in the uncharted jungles of Borneo. No previews at the time of press, but assume all does not go well.

40 lbs FILM REVIEWS

Gotta dance! The director of Whiplash returns with what the world needs now – a feel-good romantic musical STORY BY Stuart

McGurk

LA LA LAND is not, let’s be clear, a film that was likely to star Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson. It is set in a version of Hollywood so Technicolor bright it feels freshly painted. Technically, it’s set in the present day, but in reality, it’s not so much set in the past, as in a rose-tinted version of it. It sees Ryan Gosling as a frustrated jazz pianist and Emma Stone as a wannabe actress who keep bumping into each other. It’s preposterous, ludicrous – and it’s exactly the film we need right now. We open on a traffic jam on an overpass, and – in a swooping, thrilling single take – we suddenly find ourselves in full Fame-style theatrics as frustrated drivers leap from their cars in a cartwheeling cluster-tap. And from there it gets less realistic. So yes, it is a musical. But stop! Come back! Because La La Land has managed a quite amazing feat – it’s a musical you’ll love even if (like most humans) you hate musicals. Better yet, it’s a musical with the thrills of an action film. No, really. Partly, this shouldn’t come as a shock. It is, after all, the follow-up from Damian Chazelle, the director of the equally kinetic cinematic roller-coaster that was Whiplash, the Oscar smash about jazz drumming (and just think what an unlikely feat that was). Like that film, the camera isn’t just an impassive watcher here, but an active participant – VR without the VR. At the same time, it’s not ironic in any way. Yes, sure, it presents a Hollywood that should come with headache tablets, but the delicate unreality of it – as we follow the year-long relationship between Gosling and Stone as they meet-cute again and again: at that traffic jam; at the restaurant he plays at and gets sacked from; at a party – would fall apart if it

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Music therapy: Emma Stone and Ryan Gosling star in La La Land, from the director Damian Chazelle

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was. Or, worse, descend into pastiche and parody. It doesn’t do that – rather, it revels in mainlining their earnest desires, and you’re reminded what a rarity this is. After the year we’ve just had, how welcome. This isn’t reality, but it’s nice to imagine the arc of the moral universe does indeed bend towards justice, even if just for a couple of people, even if just for a couple of hours.

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Hacksaw Ridge

T2: Trainspotting

Jackie

Live By Night

The problem for those who would like to see Mel Gibson relegated to Hollywood history is that he remains a gifted director. His latest film tells the true story of Desmond Doss (Andrew Garfield), a Second World War medic and the only conscientious objector to ever be awarded the Medal Of Honor. The story is paintby-numbers, but the gut-punch of the finale is more than worth it.

No screenings at the time of going to press, so what do we know about this long-awaited sequel? Well, 20 years have passed, it’s loosely based on Porno, Irvine Welsh’s follow-up novel, all the cast have returned – Diane (Kelly Macdonald) doesn’t look much older, Spud (Ewen Bremner) looks about 80 – and, according to Robert Carlyle, it is “going to be quite emotional for people”. Um, OK?

Natalie Portman is on Oscar form in a sorta-biopic that is anything but what you’d expect and all the better for it. Taking its lead from a Life magazine interview with Jackie Kennedy a week after JFK was assassinated, it doesn’t so much tell her story straight as go in circles – the result is something quite unique and almost painfully intimate.

For the sake of everyone who’s ever considered visiting a cinema, Ben Affleck is out of the batsuit and back in the directors’ chair where he belongs. Here he’s adapting Dennis Lehane’s 2012 novel about a former solider and prodigal son of an army captain who first becomes a bootlegger and then a notorious gangster. The trailer makes it look a little too picture-perfect, but here’s hoping the script doesn’t follow suit. SM


WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR IN 2017

458 Weeks between Tiger Woods’ last grand slam win and the Masters in April.

$

53,716

7

Total salary of Sebastian Vettel as he completes his third year at Ferrari.

Andy Murray begins the year at the top of the ATP world rankings.

$200m

Reported revenue from a second Mayweather-Pacquiao fight. The first, in May 2015, generated $700m.

36 Estimated Premier League players, including Liverpool's Sadio Mane, leaving for January’s African Cup Of Nations.

197 Difference in seats between White Hart Lane and Wembley, where Spurs will play the 2017-18 season.

$250m Revenue Bermuda hopes to raise from hosting the America’s Cup in June.

Consecutive matches won by England’s rugby union team should they win the grand slam again in the Six Nations.

New stadiums to open in Russia leading up to the 2018 World Cup.

Days between the end of the World Athletics Championships at West Ham’s London Stadium and the start of the Premier League season.

SPORT

Photographs All Star; Getty Images; LMK Media; Rex/Shutterstock

This is a prediction column, but with a difference. Forget next year, we’re doing 2016. After all, if football reporters genuinely knew the outcome of matches we wouldn’t have to sit in the cold writing about them. Also, the world of sport has never been so volatile, so impulsive and arbitrary. So it’s time to cheat a little. Precognition is way too difficult. Postcognition, that’s the way forward. Who wants to end up looking daft?

STARTING WITH the European Championship. Don’t expect any big shocks in France this summer. With 16 out of the 24 qualified teams going through, it will be very hard for any major nation to fail to reach the late stages. Yes, even England. Roy Hodgson’s team can hardly fail to win a group that comprises Russia, Wales and Slovakia. Do that, and they could end up against a bunch of lightweights in the last 16. Iceland, for instance. So Hodgson makes the quarter-finals minimum and that means a relaxing summer for the Football Association, with no need to replace the England manager. The transition from Hodgson to the wellrespected and insightful Gary Neville looks plain sailing now. And if Hodgson gets two more years at least we will be spared the token Sam Allardyce job interview. IT’S A GOOD BET that José Mourinho will end up at Manchester United – so it isn’t hard to work out who will be contesting the title next

2016 THE YEAR THAT WAS

GQ reflects on a thrilling year that nobody – not even those in the know – saw coming STORY BY Martin

Samuel

season. Once Mourinho is put with the limitless resources at Old Trafford, we can assume that the days of disappointment will be over. Give Mourinho £160 million and watch him right the wrongs of the previous regimes. Plus, he will be raring to go, with lots to prove after the Chelsea debacle, and will have learned from falling out with his players. One imagines a much happier dressing-room as a result and no more sulks and pouting. He’ll probably even get along with the FA and referees.

ENGLISH RUGBY has a new head coach in Eddie Jones, but he’ll have a lot of work on

after such a disappointing World Cup. He’ll need to heal some painful wounds, so we shouldn’t ask too much of his first Six Nations or the summer tour to Australia. It’s not as if a new coach can come in, make a few changes and simply erase the past. He’s a fine coach and a good motivator, but cannot be expected to work miracles. This is the same group of players after all. There will be no quick fixes.

THIS SUMMER will see the Olympics in Rio De Janeiro, and while we cannot possibly hope to emulate the achievements of Team GB in London in 2012, at least in the current climate of suspicion and negativity over drug use, we can rest assured that our greatest athletes are not stained by the prevailing mood. Thankfully, the likes of Sir Bradley Wiggins and his colleagues at British Cycling will not be weighed down by scandal, rumours and innuendo.

AND FINALLY, Leicester are definitely not going to win the league. You can bet on that, even if they were quoted at odds of 5,000-1 at the beginning of the season. Sorry, but it won’t happen. Modern football aids the superrich elite. Each year, the Premier League table pretty much corresponds to the wage bills of its 20 clubs, highest payers at the top, lowest at the bottom, with each team no more than three places from where it should be. So 2015-16 is not going to be Leicester’s season, and you can forget about them in next year’s Champions League, too.


MUSIC

SOUNDTRACKS TO A GENERATION Stranger Things and Luke Cage are leading the trend for television scores that go beyond background noise to take a lead role in the story STORY BY Dorian

elebrating pop music on television is like looking at the sun. You have to do it at an angle or through some kind of filter, otherwise you can’t see straight. In the past year, two prestigious series about the music industry, HBO’s Vinyl and Cameron Crowe’s Showtime series Roadies, have belly-flopped at the same time as two Netflix shows that are about something else entirely, Luke Cage and Stranger Things, have illustrated just how powerful music can be. It’s not impossible to turn music-making into compelling drama as long as you’re prepared to lean in to the clichés and make them larger than life. Baz Luhrmann’s Netflix series The Get Down, for example, paints the rise of hip hop in the primary-coloured, mythologising shades of

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Lynskey

Broadway musicals, comic books and kung fu movies. Empire and Nashville are soap operas with songs. Vinyl and Roadies weren’t humourless, but they took themselves very seriously. Like Almost Famous left out in the sun for a month, Roadies was to Crowe what The Newsroom was to Aaron Sorkin: the point at which a distinctive voice curdles into the drone of a middle-aged man on why things were better in his day. Vinyl had an A-list team (Martin Scorsese, Mick Jagger and Terence Winter) and a subject oozing potential (Seventies New York) but felt like a paunchy boomer in double denim forcing both his record collection and his anecdotes on his teenage kids. Who wants to be lectured about something that’s meant to be fun? To everyone’s surprise, these two highpedigree shows had less musical intelligence than a Marvel superhero series and a sci-fi coming-of-age drama. I wish I’d seen Stranger Things when I wrote last year about the “platonic Eighties” – music which evokes the decade via movies rather than memories – because it Tune in (clockwise from top right): Stranger Things' synth score is awash with Eighties-inflected sounds; episodes of Luke Cage are named after Gang Starr songs; music is a major part of the DNA of the story in The Get Down; original soundtrack artwork

elevates that aesthetic to perfection. The vintage synth score by half of Texan band Survive is an uncanny blend of John Carpenter, Giorgio Moroder and Tangerine Dream. The faultlessly chosen songs (hat-tip to music supervisor Nora Felder) range from period hits like Toto’s “Africa” to the grave majesty of Joy Division and New Order. Most impressively, “Should I Stay Or Should I Go?”, The Clash’s most gonzo single, is reinvented as a spooky transmission from the other side. If the show is a time machine, music is the engine. Another Netflix show, Luke Cage, is even structured like an album. Showrunner Cheo Hodari Coker, a former music journalist who named each episode after a track by Nineties hip hop duo Gang Starr, has said he wants binge-watching the series to feel like listening to Sign O’ The Times or Songs In The Key Of Life. The evocative score by Adrian Younge and A Tribe Called Quest’s Ali Shaheed Muhammad bridges the gap between the show’s modern-day setting and the character’s Seventies blaxploitation origins. “What Ali and I tried to do with the music is illuminate the world that Cheo Coker described to us: black New York, the birthplace

‘Most soundtracks are considered great if they have two good songs. We wanted to curate one that stands alone’ 116 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017


WHAT’S GOING ON?

DON’T MISS What: I See You by The xx (Young Turks) When: Out on 13 January Why: A Hall & Oates sample is just one of the surprising delights on offer as the trio who made their name with monochrome minimalism explode into colour on their third album. Their new-found confidence suits them beautifully. What: Oczy Mlody by The Flaming Lips (Bella Union) When: Out on 13 January Why: For the last decade, Oklahoma’s psychedelic adventurers have veered between claustrophobia and whimsy but they’re back on track. This heavily electronic reinvention (the title is Polish for “eyes of the young”) strikes an intoxicating balance between fear and wonder. What: Future Politics by Austra (Domino) When: Out on 20 January Why: You can expect a lot more political music this year, for obvious reasons. Katie Stelmanis starts early with an album of resistance and optimism, made irresistible by electro-pop rhythms and Stelmanis’ trembling soprano.

Twin Peaks (Warner Bros, 1990) Angelo Badalamenti

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ASK THE INTERN

The Sopranos (Play-Tone/Columbia/ Sony Music Soundtrax, 2002) Various Artists

3 Josh Lee

Treme (Decca, 2010) Various Artists

4 TOP TEN TELEVISION SOUNDTRACKS OF ALL TIME

of hip hop,” Younge told me. “That’s why a lot of people describe it as an extra character.” Muhammad says existing songs were used as placeholders – what he calls “needle-drop songs” – and replaced in the edit by original music, with key sounds representing each character: the Fender Rhodes for smooth-talking gangster Cottonmouth or the voice of Loren Oden for reluctant hero Cage. Influenced by great soundtrack composers from Bernard Herrmann and Ennio Morricone to Isaac Hayes and Curtis Mayfield, their score for Luke Cage (like Survive’s for Stranger Things) sets the tone. “Most soundtracks are considered great if they have one or two really good songs,” says Younge. “We wanted to curate a soundtrack that could stand alone as a record as well as enhancing the visuals.” Interwoven with hip hop classics (Gang Starr, Wu-Tang Clan) and live performances (Raphael Saadiq, Faith Evans), the score gives Luke Cage swagger, soul and social context. Music is a character but it’s also a special effect and set design. For Younge, TV in the binge-watching era provides a musical canvas with extraordinary potential. “I call it the post-MTV era,” he says. “MTV galvanised people into having ADD and wanting things quick. But now people can sit and watch 13 hours of television. That’s why Cheo compared it to a double album. Back in the day, when we got a record we were so excited to get home and listen to it front to back. That’s what Luke Cage is now.” Could we be entering a golden age of TV soundtracks? The Netflix shows consider how we use music to bond, empower and console, to shape identity and tell stories. Vinyl and Roadies were tiresome because they insisted on telling you that music is important. Stranger Things and Luke Cage let you feel it in your bones.

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This Life (BBC, 2000) Various Artists

5 Flight Of The Conchords (Sub Pop, 2008) Flight Of The Conchords

6 Vinyl (Atlantic, 2016) Various Artists

7 Empire (Columbia, 2015) Empire Cast

GQ.CO.UK INTERN

From: I was brought up in a fabled land called “Manchester”. We have tracksuits, an unlimited supply of gravy and a £1-a-pint pub. Why else do you think that we’re the nation’s “second capital”? Current living situation: I’m currently living in Kilburn with four friends from university. We’re all at that stage where we’re trying to figure out our role in this world; where cornflakes at 8pm still counts as dinner. Favourite podcast: Gary Neville’s podcasts for Sky Sports are always a treat. Yes, he was a bang-average manager, but he’s a punditry genius nonetheless. Favourite TV series: Mad Men. Sex, suits and Sixties style – GQ’s holy trinity really. Favourite artist: The Smiths. The way Morrissey speaks about death in such a facetious manner really strikes a chord with me in this world of Justin Biebers and will.i.ams. “Why do I give valuable time to people who don’t care if I live or die?” Genius. Favourite Friday-night haunt: A food market in Copenhagen called Papirøen (Paper Island). You haven’t experienced true hygge until you’ve spent a cold Dansk night huddled among the masses in this cosy hall. And the food isn’t bad either. Favourite website: highsnobiety.com is an essential for daily browsing – everything I can’t afford in one space.

8 Friday Night Lights Soundtrack (Hip-O, 2004) Explosions In The Sky

9 Stranger Things, Volume One (Invada Records, 2016) Kyle Dixon and Michael Stein

10 Eastbound &  Down (Fat Possum, 2012) Various Artists

Favourite shop/designer: H&M. Perhaps surprising for a GQ employee, but you just can’t beat Scandi minimalism. And after all, I was only a student a few months ago. The prices help me pay those bills. Favourite mode of transport: The Tube. There’s no greater rush than the one you get when staring down at all the neighbouring manspreaders. Date in the diary:

21 The end of May Manchester United’s season. Put 2017 me out of my misery, José! FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 117


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Photograph Ben Riggott Grooming Chloe Botting using Kiehl’s Model Alex Nicholl at W Model Management

New year, new you! This month: the whole-body workout athletes never skip

For whom the bell toils Power up, trim down and swing into action with the only bit of gym kit you need to have at home E D I T E D BY

PAUL HENDERSON


Get cosy in the kitchen… with Västerbotten cheese and spinach waffles

WELLBEING

The perfect low-effort snack from ScandiKitchen Fika & Hygge, a new cookbook by Bronte Aurell. Out now (£16.99, Ryland  Peters & Small).

Hygge it out Take your cold-weather survival strategy from the nation that knows a thing or two about winter cheer In Denmark it rains approximately 171 days a year and there are up to 17 hours of darkness a day, yet surveys claim it is the happiest country in the world. This might have something to do with hygge. Pronounced “hue-gah”, the word represents the national attitude to wellbeing. With no literal English translation, hygge is best described as a mood – of comfort, warmth, serenity and appreciation for the moment. But rather than eating green and going to broga, hygge is sharing a bottle of red in the cosiest bar in town, a hearty roast in your favourite pub, or getting the best massage of your life. For more suggestions, here’s your London guide to hygge... Stay the night… in a boatel

Work from ‘home’... at Devonshire Club

The Gainsborough Wharf boatels are two quirky house boats with wood-burning stoves, kitchens and breakfast hampers. From £180 a night. Gainsborough Wharf, Wiltshire Row, London N1. gainsboroughwharf.com

Shoreditch edge meets Mayfair chic in this old Georgian townhouse in the heart of the City. The warm, ochre Library Bar is peppered with bright and airy window seats, armchairs that could swallow you whole and has enough cushions to build a fort. 4-5 Devonshire Square, London EC2M. devonshire.club

Have a massage… at K West Hotel & Spa

Grow... a fiddle leaf fig tree

K West has a Scandinavian twist. Unusual features include a snow room, dry flotation tank and sun meadow room to treat seasonal affective disorder. The 85-minute obsidian and oynx stone therapy relieves anxiety and stress. Richmond Way, London W14. k-west.co.uk

Indoor plants sculpt and brighten rooms, making staying indoors all weekend seem more restful. They also purify the air by getting rid of carbon dioxide and create optimum humidity levels by releasing water. £200. At Grace & Thorn. graceandthorn.com

Go for dinner… at Aquavit Classic Nordic choices such as toast Skagen (prawns on sautéed bread) are served at this new restaurant in St James’s. With marble interiors and turquoise leather seats as well as a private dining room, it’s designed to feel like a home from home. St James’s Market, 1 Carlton Street, London SW1. aquavitrestaurants.com

Decorate your home… with an Eos light by Vita Copenhagen This downy ball from Danish interiors company Vita Copenhagen emits an

Have a drink... in Forest, Selfridges This snug pop-up serves garlic cheese fondu, spectacularly good venison and hot cocktails such as the Hot Pear (Hine Cognac, pear purée, honey, cinnamon) in your own festive huts. 144 Oxford Street, London W1A. forest-restaurant.co.uk

Ingredients

ethereal, soft silver glow, and is made from natural goose feathers. From £85 for medium size. vitacopenhagen.com

Listen to… the most relaxing song ever Scientists have found that “Weightless” by Marconi Union and the British Academy Of Sound Therapy is the most relaxing song ever, since its 60 bpm initiates “entrainment”, in which brainwaves and heart rate synchronise with the rhythm. Alternatively, Neil Young’s new album, Peace Trail, is out now.

Try aromatherapy... with an oud-scented candle This Tom Ford scented candle exudes fumes of the dark, resinous wood often burned in the incense-filled temples of

100g butter, melted, plus extra for greasing 150g plain flour 75g wholegrain spelt flour 2tsps baking powder 75g finely grated Västerbotten cheese (or mature cheddar) 100g spinach, cooked 150g smoked bacon pieces, chopped and fried Freshly ground black pepper Pinch of salt Sour cream to serve (optional) Method Just throw everything together in a bowl and mix. Cook in a waffle iron. Serve with sour cream.

(£1,995, derek-rose.com), and oversized jumpers (right) from Norse Projects (£300, norseprojects.com).

Spend an evening watching... Fortitude series two

Bhutan – it’s one of a perfumer’s most precious ingredients. Tom Ford Oud Wood Candle, £165. At Harrods. harrods.com

Wear... cashmere everything Warmth and comfort is key for hygge, so invest in cashmere. Try socks (£40) and slippers (£40) from The White Company’s new menswear collection (thewhitecompany.com), a Derek Rose dressing gown

Set in the Arctic, crime thriller Fortitude is so cold its marketing campaign features a polar bear. Nordic jumper essential to viewing. Fortitude Series Two is on Sky Atlantic this month

Grab a pastry… at The Bread Station This large but homely Danish bakery serves up yeast-free sourdough breads and pastries (including cinnamon rolls and kringles) using their stone mill. Arch 373 Hemsley Place, London Fields, London E8. thebreadstation. co.uk

Settle in a comfy chair and read... The Dry by Jane Harper This gripping novel charts a policeman’s unwilling participation in the investigation of a terrible murder in the town of his youth, and is set to be the biggest crime release of 2017. Eleanor Halls Out on 12 January (Little Brown, £12.99)


LIFE

SEX

Why you need to embrace the affection revolution

Photograph Jenn Mitchell/Trunk Archive *Study published in Men And Masculinities

Not the touchy-feely type? Think again and get hands-on at a professional cuddle party AS ANYONE who has ever crowded into a lift with complete strangers knows, the last thing you want to do is hug a complete stranger. But recently I found myself in Venice, Los Angeles, with an invitation to a “cuddle party”, where I was expected to do just that. What is a cuddle party? It is, say its founders, “a structured format where people safely learn and enjoy communicating their interests and limits, and exploring consensual nonsexual touch and affection”. The parties are popular because being touched releases oxytocin, known as the love hormone. To someone who has never done group cuddling before, going to one of these events is nerve-wracking. At least at an orgy you know what to expect. Cuddle parties were born in 2004, when Reid Mihalko and Marcia Baczynski – part of the grassroots adult sex-education movement in the US – began hosting them in their Manhattan apartment. Thirteen years later, there are cuddle parties in every major city. “They are part of the ‘affection revolution,’” say organisers, caused by a touch-neglected society. Mihalko is now a speaker on sex education topics, including “Negotiating Successful Threesomes”. While Baczynski trains “professional cuddlers” paid by corporations to provide “cuddling seminars” at the office. The party’s aim is similar to the use of touch in studies by sex researchers Masters and Johnson, who created “sensate focus”, which became a foundation of sex therapy. The idea was to become mindfully present to sensations, refraining from forcing pleasure and arousal. Couples were directed to focus on touch, rather than feel pressured to perform, a technique still used to reduce performance problems. The first question of a cuddle party is what do you wear? Should a man wear a suit to keep it “business-like”? Should a woman wear two

Different strokes: Touching and cuddling activates your feelgood hormones

pairs of Spanx to repel strange boners poking her during the group cuddle? When I arrived at the party, held in a yoga studio, everyone was in pyjamas. “Could I hug you?” asked a girl at the door. The only other time a stranger asked me that upon arrival was at a swingers’ sex party I went to once. OK, twice. Everyone sat on the floor as our facilitator and a “cuddle lifeguard” laid down the rules: First: “If you see someone you met at a cuddle party in a public place, don’t yell ‘Hi! I met you at a cuddle party!’” Second: “If you want

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halt and the cuddle lifeguard stepped in: “Everybody switch partners.” “Do you want to stargaze and hold hands?” asked a masculine-looking hippie lady in her seventies with long grey hair. “OK,” I said. Anything was an improvement over nearly being crushed to death. “Do you like to talk when you stargaze?” she asked. “Sure,” I said, babbling away because I was so unrelaxed holding hands with a woman who looked like Willie Nelson. “I don’t like to talk,” she said. As we gazed, the group cuddle was in full

percentage of straight % The British men who claim to have spooned with another man*

to cuddle someone, ask first.” Third: “You are allowed to say no if you don’t want to cuddle.” Any questions? “What if I get an erection?” someone asked. “Just wait until it goes down.” The first half hour was like speed dating. I got a massage from a guy (not bad), hugged a girl (weird), spooned someone I wasn’t attracted to (worse), and cuddled a guy with BO (torture). Next, I was paired with a “professional cuddler” who wanted to “do the plank” – which would involve him lying on my back. “You’re on,” I said, thinking it was some CrossFit workout. Two seconds in, I realised it was more like an S&M thing. “I took a deep breath when suddenly the guy with BO jumped on top. “Get off me. I can’t breathe!” I screamed. The party came to a screeching

swing. People were moaning, hugging, spooning, planking, massaging. It looked like an orgy with clothes on and it sounded like one – minus the orgasms, squishing and squirting sounds. Finally, I was paired with someone I thought was cute. He stroked my hair, I stroked his arm. We hugged. We spooned. It felt good. We were in the moment. It was the essence of the cuddle party. I was secreting the love hormone. “Am I secreting on you?” I asked. “I was just going to ask you the same thing,” he answered. The party ended with the “puppy pile” where we all did a group hug on the floor. It was fun, actually, and I didn’t even mind that something that felt like a Polish sausage poked me in the back of my neck. Anka Radakovich For information, visit cuddleworkshop.co.uk


PERSONAL TRAINING #1 This whole body, explosive and functional multi-joint exercise will challenge your motor and balance skills and fire up your posterior chain. It’s also a superior body fat burner that will increase cardio fitness and muscular endurance, which is why top athletes and coaches include  the kettlebell clean and press in their training programmes.

Preparation In the first of his new fitness columns, GQ’s personal trainer Jonathan Goodair will show you the one exercise you have to do every month. It will have to be whole body and functional, one that challenges multiple energy pathways, builds strength, increases muscle mass, burns fat, challenges your core musculature and gives your heart a good workout, too. Is there one ultimate exercise that ticks all the boxes? Well, if there is it will probably utilise either kettlebells, TRX suspension training system or body weight. Every month, we will show you one workout move to rule them all...

Place the kettlebell between your feet. Squat down with a straight back and grasp the kettlebell with your right hand in an overhand grip.

Clean Begin with kettlebell lifted off floor. Gently swing kettlebell back between legs. Drive up through hips and knees and explosively pull the kettle bell upwards to shoulder height, keeping the kettlebell close to your body. Rotate your right arm under the kettlebell and swing it so it comes to rest on the outside of the right arm in the crook of your elbow.

Try it Tabata style 8 rounds of 20 seconds for each arm, with 10 seconds’ rest between rounds.

Press Perform a partial squat, dipping under the kettlebell. Powerfully push up with the legs and drive the right arm straight up to vertical.


LIFE

DIET: MARGINAL GAINS

Return In one continuous movement lower the kettlebell to rest on the outside of the arm again, bending knees and hips slightly to help absorb the weight. Lower kettlebell to floor by pulling elbow back and controlling its descent, allow arm to straighten while squatting with core engaged and back close to vertical. jonathangoodair.com

The weight is over... Forget the blood, sweat and tears of regular regimes – new, under-the-radar research has uncovered how small changes to your lifestyle can help banish the excess for good SWEET LOSS And the secret to fat loss is... chocolate. A British researcher served up either 40g white chocolate or 40g dark chocolate to nine cyclists for 14 days prior to a twominute flat-out time trial with the “dark” pedallers generating significantly higher power output. The cause is the substance epicatechin, a flavanol found in cocoa, which results in a chemical reaction that elevates nitric oxide levels in the blood, stimulating vasodilation, greater bloodflow and increased fat-burning.

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SLEEP EASY Sleep your way to a thinner you – that’s the message from Uppsala University in Sweden. Subjects slept for eight hours per night or had shut-eye curtailed to four hours to observe how sleep deprivation affected gut health. Analysis of the subjects’ bacteria showed an increased ratio of firmicutes to bacteroidetes in the sleep-loss group. This disparity in the two bacterium is important because it replicates the profiles seen in humans with obesity and type 2 diabetes.

Photographs Ben Riggott; Alamy Grooming Chloe Botting using Kiehl’s Model Alex Nicholl at W Model Management Styling Jake Pummintr

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GO ORGANIC A European team has revealed that choosing organic burns more fat. Researchers undertook a meta-analysis to examine how nutritional content varied between organic and nonorganic red meats, and discovered that organic meat contained around 50 per cent

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more Omega-3 than its more affordable alternative. That’s good news for calorie counters because this polyunsaturated fatty acid has been proven to increase fat metabolism. CIRCADIAN PEAK A team from France has shown that if you’re looking to kill fatty deposits, pencil in a 5pm workout. After analysing world records from across a range of sprint and endurance sports, they noted that the majority were broken later in the day. This is because you need more electrical energy to contract the muscle earlier in the day with aspects such as light, ambient temperature and food intake all having an impact on the efficiency of skeletal muscles.

4

DRINK WATER Water really is the elixir of life. A recent study in the Journal Of Obesity split 84 overweight participants into two groups with both put on a 12-week hypocaloric diet; in other words, consuming fewer calories than expending. Group one told themselves they were full after each meal, while group two drank 500ml water 30 minutes prior to consuming three daily meals. Though both groups lost weight, the water-intake group lost an extra 2kg. This is due to the water eliciting a fuller feeling in the stomach and brain.

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COFFEE SWILLING Training in a fasted state to increase fat-burning’s been a

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WOOL WIND JACKET BY RAPHA Defy both the elements and the sartorial constraints of winter commuting with Rapha’s latest all-weather jacket. Made from lightweight wind-resistant wool, designed with urban riding in mind, and with a mesh lining that keeps it breathable, you can wear it anywhere with anything (bike optional). PH £250. rapha.cc

popular weight-loss strategy for the past couple years. Now a team from London Metropolitan University has shown that mouth rinsing with caffeine after a night fasting helps individuals to unleash a more intense workout than training in  a glycogen-depleted state without a coffee hit. Caffeine latches onto sensors in the mouth that basically cons the brain into thinking that it can work harder than first thought. DON’T FORGET YOUR OATS While glycogen-depleted, low-intensity sessions might be in vogue for raising fat metabolism, don’t do this more than once a week. Researchers from Loughbourgh University dissected numerous journals and came to the conclusion that while missing breakfast resulted in a lower daily energy intake, it also led to a reduction in physical activity. That’s why slow-releasing carbs like porridge are a must.

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SCARE YOURSELF THINNER British researchers have found that watching a scary film – The Shining, Jaws, anything with Adam Sandler – burns the same amount of calories as a brisk 30 minute walk. Films that spark an increased heart rate cause a surge in the adrenaline hormone, which leads to reduced appetite and an increase in metabolic rate – the perfect duo for slashing the excess. James Witts

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PRIMAL POWER

Unleash your time totem According to psychologists, inside us all is an animal waiting to get out – just make sure you choose the right moment Are you a dolphin, a bear, a wolf or a lion? You look puzzled. Let us explain. A new book from clinical psychologist Dr Michael Breus, The Power Of When, claims the population can be categorised into four animal “chronotypes”. Why? To determine the four most common primitive body clocks that regulate our primal instincts and influence our every decision. This new way of heeding our bodies’ natural rhythms will, according to Dr Breus, allow us to choose the optimum time to do anything, from having sex to asking for a raise. So, without further ado, set your watch for success...

...fall in love Keep note of your “affection rhythm” (ie, when you feel most affectionate to your partner) to help progress your relationship to the next level. Dolphins: Afternoon and early evening. Ideally, 8pm, after a serotonin-boosting dinner of carbs. Lions: Morning and early afternoon. Ideally, 7am, following post-morning sex. Bears: Mid-afternoon and early evening, in the sunny afterglow of a nap. Wolves: Late afternoon and late evening, after dinner and in a haze of oxytocin. The worst time for all creatures: Between 11am and 2pm, as morning oxytocin, testosterone and dopamine levels have receded by then.

...ask for a raise

Based on a study showing that subjects are unable to control their emotional reactivity when sleep-deprived, Dr Breus argues that you should never fight unless you’ve had a decent night’s sleep. According to him, each chronotype has its own window of time in which mood and energy levels allow for the most lucid and constructive confrontation. Dolphins: Dolphins are conflict-averse and good listeners; pounce around 7pm, after they’ve had dinner, and they’ll agree to almost anything. Lions: Around 9am, lions will be alert, analytical and eager to fix things. Bears: Bears will be more willing to compromise around 5pm, when they’re in a good mood. Wolves: Wolves are sharply articulate at 8pm, but they’re also in their best mood so they may not want a negative conversation. The worst time for all creatures: Avoid 11pm. Fighting when you’re both tired is not ideal.

...have sex Although we’ve been conditioned to associate sex with bedtime, our desire rhythm (when testosterone levels in both men and women are at their highest) actually peaks in the morning. Plus, sex upon waking will jump-start your day by filling you with energy, enhancing creativity, reducing stress and anxiety, and releasing endorphins. And sex counts as exercise, right? Dolphins: Cortisol levels are at their highest in dolphins at 8pm. Lions: Lions feel desire most strongly between 6am and 7am. Bears: Bears’ stress levels are high and need to be purged at 7am or 9pm. Wolves: A mood-boost is much needed between 10am and 10:30pm, The worst time for all creatures: Heart rate is slowest between 11pm and 1am, and melatonin is making you sleepy. Your body is not primed for any physical activity as this time.

Know your chronotype Get your body back in sync with its natural rhythm by discovering the chronotype that best fits you

DOLPHIN

BEAR

(Type 1)

(Type 2)

Characteristics: Cautious; introverted; neurotic; intelligent. Personality traits: Obsessive compulsive; avoids risky situations; fixation on details; strives for perfection.

Characteristics: Extrovert; cautious; friendly; open-minded. Personality traits: Conflict averse; takes comfort in the familiar; prioritises happiness.

LION

WOLF

Characteristics: Conscientious; stable; practical; optimistic. Personality traits: Overachieving; prioritises health and fitness; seeks positive interactions; strategic.

Characteristics: Impulsive; pessimistic; creative; moody. Personality traits: Risk-taking; prioritises pleasure; seeks novelty; emotionally intense.

(Type 3)

(Type 4)

You want to catch your boss when they’re in a good mood. Your own mood is equally important, so following your peak activation rhythm (when you are attentive and interested) is crucial to making your case with conviction. Research shows Friday is best, as it’s the least productive day of the week. Dolphins: Dolphins are most decisive at 4pm, due to their uptick in mood after the post-lunch dip. Lions: Lions are at their most positive at 12pm and therefore most confident. Bears: At 2pm, bears are at their least impulsive, but at peak cognitive performance. Wolves: Wolves are most “switched on” and have the most energy at 5pm. The worst time for all creatures: Mondays and Tuesdays. On Mondays, your boss will be sleep deprived from social jet lag, and Tuesdays are the most hectic day of the week, so he or she will not be interested in discussing nonurgent issues.

...plan To successfully plan something important as a group, Dr Breus suggests assigning specific jobs to specific chronotypes. As a general rule: leave the research and planning to dolphins and lions and the creative vision to bears and wolves. Dolphins: As well as being perfectionists and obsessives, dolphins also have trouble committing. Talk about ideas from 8am until noon and search and solidify plans from 8pm to 10pm. Lions: Executive decision-makers and controllers they may be, but lions lack spontaneity. Talk about ideas from 8pm until 10pm, research and solidify plans from 6am to 9am. Bears: Although enthusiastic, bears don’t always get the job done. Talk about ideas from 2pm to 3pm or 6pm to 9pm, research and solidify plans from 10am to 2pm. Wolves: Wolves are impulsive, with little patience for logistics. Talk about ideas from 8am until noon, research and solidify plans from 6pm to 10pm. The worst time for all creatures: At the last minute, obviously. EH

The Power Of When (Penguin, £12.99) is out now

Photographs Delbert Shoopman for BGV; Shutterstock

The best time to ...face confrontation


LIFE

Who let the dogs out? Bear Grylls spars with a hound in 2012 for his series Worst-Case Scenario

BEAR GRYLLS: #21 HOW TO SURVIVE A DOG ATTACK

When man’s best friend turns mortal enemy...

last ten years

bulls. If a dog is regularly chained up or confined, it is more likely to be aggressive. You should never tease or taunt a dog, especially one you don’t know. You can learn a lot about a dog by its body language. If it’s growling or baring its teeth, that’s a sign of aggression. But also pay attention to the head: if it’s above the body or lower than the body, the dog is more likely to be relaxed. If the head is in line with the body, it’s a sign that the dog is preparing to attack. If a dog is showing signs of aggression, don’t look it in the eye as it will take that as a challenge. Don’t smile as it could interpret that as you baring your teeth. Instead, stand sideways to it so you present less of a threat. Without making sudden movements, slowly back away and out of the dog’s line of sight. If none of this works, and you find yourself in conflict with a dog, you need to make some fast decisions. You shouldn’t try to run away from a dog as this triggers their chase instinct.

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I’M A dog guy. We have well-loved dogs at home and they’re part of the family. I truly believe the old adage that there are no bad dogs, only bad owners. But I also know how dangerous dogs can be. There is a very good reason why special forces units make use of highly trained, highly aggressive attack dogs. These animals are trained to jump from planes, are often fitted with special body armour and even have metal coating applied to their teeth to make their bite more effective. They’re smart, they’re strong and they’re deadly in a fight. Hopefully you’ll never encounter that kind of attack dog, but the fact remains that in the US alone there are approximately 4.5 million recorded dog bites a year. In October last year, a fourmonth-old baby was killed by a dog in Colchester. Dog attacks can, and do, happen. Knowing how to deal with them could help you save someone’s life. First off, you need to remember that any dog can be dangerous, not just pit

increase in dog % The attacks on humans in England over the

They might be loyal companions, but dogs can also be dangerous, or even deadly. When canines strike, make sure your bite is worse than your bark

But there are exceptions to this rule. If a number of aggressive dogs are attacking you, your chances of winning that fight are small. In this case, your best chance of getting out alive is to run and get up high as dogs can’t climb. If that’s not possible, remember that dogs can be intimidated: raise your arms above your head to make yourself appear taller and roar loudly. If there are stones nearby, throw them at the dog to make it think twice about attacking. If the dog keeps coming, its primary weapon will be its bite. Do what you can to get something between you and that bite – a stick, a jacket or a rucksack. If it’s unavoidable, you need to think about which part of your body you would prefer the dog to attack. It’s a Hobson’s choice – the bite will hurt – but you want to protect your most vulnerable parts: your neck, your face, your chest and your groin. This might mean offering it a less vulnerable part of your body such as the thick flesh on your outer thigh. If possible, though, you should wrap whatever clothing you can around your forearm and offer that to the dog. Your arm has a higher proportion of bone than your leg and will bleed less. This manoeuvre will leave you with three limbs with which to fight back. Remember, when dogs bite, they dig their teeth in firmly and don’t let go. If you try to rip your arm from that bite, you’ll only worsen the tear and end up with a vicious, debilitating open wound. Once a dog has you in a bite, all bets are off. Worst-case scenario: it’s a fight to the death. You want to avoid a ground fight as this leaves you exposed. Instead, you need to quickly neutralise the dog. The best way to do this is to use your body weight and fall on the dog to crush it – a dog’s ribs break easily. With your free arm, go for the dog’s eyes, or strike at the back of its head, just at the base of its skull. If you’re in the wild and you have a survival knife with you, the dog’s most vulnerable parts are under its front leg or just above its shoulder. Other tips include covering the dog’s head with a coat, which often subdues it, and lifting the dog’s hind legs up in the air, which stops it from manoeuvring effectively. In the US, almost one in five dog bites, no matter how severe, result in infection. If you’ve been bitten, get yourself checked out at the hospital. And, ultimately, remember: it isn’t about the dog in the fight, it’s about the fight in the dog. In other words: never give up and know how to win.


KIT

Manchester United coat by Columbia For the ultimate in touchline TurboDown technology. £400. columbiasportswear.co.uk

Serathor Supreme Ortho-Tec goalkeeper gloves by Reusch Finger-protection technology guarantees the safest hands in football. £180. reusch.com

Aquaracer Premier League Special Edition by TAG Heuer A beautiful watch to mark TAG’s timekeeping partnership with the beautiful game. £2,150. tagheuer.co.uk

DNAmic compression top by Skins Reduces fatigue and gives a boost to your core, back and shoulders. £60. skins.net

Premier picks

MiCoach Smart Ball by Adidas The smart ball with a built-in sensor to analyse your game. £150. adidas.co.uk Wearable tech by Zepp The wearable tracker that can monitor all your player performance stats. £100. international.zepp.com

Pro-S shin guards by G-form Extremely flexible and strong, these sleeve shin pads stiffen on impact. £55. Pro Direct Soccer. prodirectsoccer.com

M-Station Talent Club Rebounder by Munin The best pass-returning training device – just ask Real Madrid, Bayern Munich, Arsenal, etc. £490. muninsports.com

Tiempo Anti-Clog Traction boots by Nike Leave the opposition and the turf behind with these revolutionary traction boots. £305. nike.com

Eliminator Unlimited Supergrip gloves by Uhlsport The 2017 Eliminator offers better grip and durability. £150. Pro Direct Soccer. prodirectsoccer.com

Photographs Jody Todd Illustration Ryan McAmis. *Study from the Journal Of Family Psychology

Introducing your one-stop shop for the latest gear and gadgets. Each month, we’ll feature one sport, showcasing everything you need to improve your performance and update your locker. To start, we’re kicking off with football


LIFE

COMMENT

Is it wrong that I have a favourite child?

70%

frankly shouldn’t even have to ask. That aside, if his only children were Ivanka and those two sons who look like sweaty balloons, then this would be the ideal dynamic. Whereas actually, Trump has two other children, including the lesser-known Tiffany, who now has the global status of “not favourite daughter”. Which is exactly what you don’t want to do. Really, it’s a dick move. Unless your non-favourite children have done something terrible, like becoming criminals, or murderers, or Jedward, you should try hard to not go there, whatever. Though actually, you shouldn’t have to. People with favourite children have forgotten what children are. They’re not accessories, like shoes or tie-pins, which exist to complement you, pleasingly or otherwise. They’re people. Most probably you don’t have a favo u r i t e p a r e n t , because you don’t necessarily regard them as being essentially the same thing. Favourite grandparents happen, but that’s because your nonfavourite grandparents are probably insane and perhaps vote Ukip. Somehow, it’s hard to comprehend all this stuff before you have children.

The other ones will be forced to live their lives asking, ‘Why wasn’t it me?’

of fathers admit to having a favourite child

If you think that’s bad...

’ve been giving this one a lot of thought, because I’m afraid it’s a bit complicated. The conclusion to which I have come is no, not necessarily. Though ideally, you shouldn’t, and if you are going to then you must have at least three children altogether. And, most importantly, every child who is of the same gender as your favourite child, but isn’t your favourite child, must have at least one sibling also of the same gender who isn’t your favourite child either. “Wuh?” I hear you cry, and I get that. I really do. This took me ages. Perhaps an equation would help, except I don’t know how to write one of those and none of my children are good enough at maths to help me. If I had one who was then, perhaps, if only briefly, that child would indeed be my favourite child. Though only, assuming he was a boy, if he had either no sisters or at least two sisters, unless he had at least two brothers instead. Or, assuming she was a girl, the complete opposite. I hope you’re getting this down. Consider Donald Trump, whose favourite child is transparently Ivanka. Granted, this is a particular sort of favouritism that might make you inclined to do a little vomit in the back of your throat, because actually fancying your kids is always bad and you

Or even before you have more than one. We’ve two girls. When my wife was pregnant with the second and we found out what it was going to be, I couldn’t get my head around who on earth could possibly be on the way. As in, if the question was “me plus my wife plus an XX chromosome” then I felt pretty sure I already knew the answer – it had been sitting there in a high chair for the past two years, normally covered in that horrible pea and pear baby food that comes in a pouch. The idea of there being another completely different answer to the same question seemed bizarre. But there was, and now she’s five, and she skips and dances while the other one winks and reads, and the idea of choosing a favourite seems as nonsensical as choosing a favourite thumb. What’s more, there could be another five or six answers to the same question (albeit theoretically, in case my wife is reading this, in horror) and I still wouldn’t think to choose. Who does? Who would? Why should it be all about you? The point is, choose a favourite child, and the choice you are making isn’t really about that child. It’s about the others. The ones who will be forced to live their lives asking themselves, or perhaps their therapists, “Why wasn’t it me?” So, if you really must do this then make sure they at least have company, as discussed above. In fact, I reckon even people with three kids of the same gender are only allowed to make either the oldest or the youngest their favourite, because making it the middle one will open up a whole new hierarchical can of worms. Although we’re getting into flow chart territory here, so maybe let’s just leave that bit alone. Hugo Rifkind is a writer for the Times.

74% of mothers admit to having a favourite too*


Photograph xposurephotos.com

Welcome to GQ’s annual round-up of the world’s most stylish men. From traditional tailoring to the coolest clothes, we have cast a knowing eye over the wardrobes of our sartorial superheroes and here’s who looks best – and worst…

I N A S SO CIATI O N WITH


The PANEL Anna Akopyan Mehmet Ali Diane Almond Imran Amed Astrid Andersen JW Anderson Giorgio Armani Wouter Baartmans Jason Basmajian Adam Brown Charlie Burton Sarah Burton Elisabetta Canali Nick Carvell Charlie Casely-Hayford Joe Casely-Hayford Dan Caten Dean Caten Jim Chapman Oliver Cheshire Sam Cotton Patrick Cox Lou Dalton Luke Day Domenico Dolce Frederik Dyhr Katie Eary Alexandre Elicha Laurent Elicha Raphaël Elicha Jo Elvin Jean Faulkner Tom Ford Tobias Frericks Stefano Gabbana Massimiliano Giornetti Dean Gomilsek-Cole Patrick Grant Nick Grimshaw Jeremy Hackett Jonathan Heaf Tommy Hilfiger Anya Hindmarch Andrea Incontri Richard James Jonny Johansson Sir Elton John

Robert Johnston Dylan Jones Kim Jones Vanessa Kingori Nicholas Kirkwood Andreas Kronthaler James Long Pixie Lott Christian Louboutin Andreas Löwenstam Sebastian Manes Dame Natalie Massenet Cozette McCreery Stuart McGurk Agi Mdumulla Suzy Menkes Matthew Miller Neil Moodie Piers Morgan Richard Nicoll Averyl Oates Dermot O’Leary Mitch Payne Stefano Pilati Philipp Plein Will Poulter Bill Prince Oliver Proudlock Jessica Punter Christopher Raeburn Sakina Raza Gordon Richardson Caroline Rush Mark Russell Jonathan Saunders Amber Siegel Sir Paul Smith Oliver Spencer Luke Sweeney Andrea Tenerani Eric Underwood John Varvatos Silvia Venturini Donatella Versace Glenn Wassall Stephen Webster Vivienne Westwood Thom Whiddett

WELCOME to the GQ Best-Dressed List in association with Mercedes-Benz, where our panel picks the world’s most stylish men. This year we have improved things by opening up the top 50 to men from beyond these shores, as well as home-grown sartorial superstars. We think it has made the list more inclusive – and if the Rio Olympics taught us one thing, it is that the Brits are more than able to compete with the world’s best. Yet again the GQ 50 is an eclectic mix, from the classically booted and suited to the out-there fashion mavericks. After all, as we keep on saying, we don’t believe that style comes with a rule book. It is innate, and one man’s amazing look could be another man’s fashion faux pas. All it takes is confidence and an ability to feel good in one’s skin – or, indeed, clothes. Alongside the top 50 is our panel’s pick of the best-dressed businessmen out there, as well as those who have the good fortune to look as good undressed as dressed – whether they want you to know it or not. Alas, it is not all good news because where would we be without our pick of the poor unfortunates who look like they have dressed in the dark? And people take notice – last year saw Paul Hollywood and Josh Widdicombe discussing the fact that they were both on the GQ naughty list on TV. It must have had an effect, because this year their names are nowhere to be seen. Robert Johnston Fashion Director

IN ASSOCIATIO N WITH

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DYLAN JONES EDITOR ROBERT JOHNSTON PUBLISHER VANESSA KINGORI ART DIRECTOR JOHN HITCHCOX MANAGING EDITOR MARK RUSSELL CHIEF SUB-EDITOR GEORGE CHESTERTON SUB-EDITORS AMY ABRAHAMS, MATT GLASBY PICTURE EDITOR ANNA AKOPYAN CONTRIBUTORS CHARLIE BURTON, NICK CARVELL, JONATHAN HEAF, PAUL HENDERSON, STUART McGURK, JAKE PUMMINTR, CONRAD QUILTY-HARPER 132 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

Drake THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR

VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

Tom Hiddleston THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR

VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

Zayn Malik THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR

VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

A$AP Rocky THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR

VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

Bradley Cooper THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR

VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

Ryan Gosling THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR


49 Charles FINCH Entrepreneur (NEW ENTRY) “’Business battle dress worn with a flâneur’s panache – no one looks more comfortable in their sartorial skin than Charles.” Bill Prince, Deputy Editor, GQ GQ says: The vice chairman of Dean & DeLuca is the son of an Oscar winner and a truly class act himself.

50 Photographs Getty Images

Tinie TEMPAH

Musician (LAST YEAR NO.46) “As an ambassador for London Fashion Week Men’s, Tinie has been championing British fashion for years. He has been a keen advocate of the industry, talking about it with intelligence and enthusiasm.” Caroline Rush, chief executive, British Fashion Council GQ says: The British rapper/fashion guru is well on his way to national treasure status.

48 Sadiq KHAN Politician (NEW ENTRY) “London’s mayor looks good, so the city looks good too. His efficiently no-nonsense uniform of white shirt and notch-collar jackets – he reputedly favours Zara – is spiked by an intriguing hint of dissent. He’ll only put on a tie when he has to, plus his favourite shoes are rubber-soled brown brogues.” Luke Leitch, Contributing Fashion Editor, GQ GQ says: Recent events make Khan into one of the UK’s most trusted – and popular – politicians.


GET THE LOOK

Richard BIEDUL Model (NEW ENTRY)

One of fashion’s most recognisable faces, Richard Biedul proves you can grow older without sacrificing your sense of style. And he always looks good in hats 1

2

3

5

7

6

1. Hat by The Kooples, £165. thekooples.co.uk 2. Hat by Paul Smith, £110. paulsmith.co.uk 3. Coat by Marks & Spencer, £69. marks andspencer.com 4. Boots by Grenson, £235. grenson.com

134 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

5. Belt by Bottega Veneta, £385. bottegaveneta. com 6. Hat by Brunello Cucinelli, £200. brunellocucinelli.com 7. Jumper by Belstaff, £375. belstaff.co.uk

Photographs Jonathan Daniel Pryce; Landmark Media; Light Project Photography; Greg Williams

4


46 Gutter credit hereplease Gutter name here

Domhnall GLEESON Actor (NEW ENTRY) “Domhnall is a phenomenal talent who carries his craft with great ease and charm. His style reflects his character... elegant, but with an unfussy effortlessness.” Christopher Bailey, creative director, Burberry GQ says: The erstwhile Weasley brother has grown up and found himself on the side of evil in a galaxy far, far away as the villainous General Hux in Star Wars: The Force Awakens.

45

Mark RONSON Musician (RE-ENTRY) “He has the ability to mix street style and tailored elegance effortlessly. He can wear bright colours, vintage pieces or a laser-cut suit with equal aplomb. He has natural charm and style, which is unique and has developed appropriately with his age and success over the years.” Sir Paul Smith, designer GQ says: Just when you think the supersuave DJ’s career has peaked, he pulls yet another winner out of his hat.


44 VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

Ryan Gosling THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

Ryan

Actor (NEW ENTRY) The secret to Ryan Gosling’s style is also the secret to his success – he never seems to try too hard. After all, being stylish is like being funny: it doesn’t work if you force it. From his indie breakthrough, Half Nelson, to breakout hit Drive to this month’s Oscar favourite La La Land, Gosling has carved out a career by following the maxim that no acting is too dramatic that it can’t be done with the corner of one’s mouth and the possible furrowing of one’s brow. His style follows suit: it’s caring without caring too much. There’s the evening outfits accompanied by velvet slippers (managing to be both formal and flippant); the knowledge that suits come in more than three colours (he’s rocked everything from an olive to a burgundy, while also being aware that if your suit shouts your shirt should whisper); the ability to roll up a sleeve all the way past one’s elbow (managing to be both smart and rakish); the understanding that a haircut can be a thing that a man decides on, rather than a project that always requires an update (a left-to-right swish that has never really been fashionable and has therefore never been out of fashion either). Or, finally, that scorpion-emblazoned bomber jacket – the one Gosling himself would never actually wear, because that would be trying too hard. SM

GOSLING

Gutter credit hereplease Gutter name here

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR


THE TOP TEN BEST-DRESSED MEN IN BUSINESS You need more than just an MBA to succeed in business these days. So here is our pick of the boardroom boys who take their wardrobes (almost) as seriously as their balance sheets

02 Dumi Oburota

The MD of Cartier UK should be among the suavest men in London. Ex-Rothschild banker Feniou carries on the tradition with his faultless take on understated French flair.

Tinie Tempah’s right-hand man and cofounder of record/clothing label Disturbing London, Oburata is a familiar face at fashion events and always perfectly polished.

04 Michael Ward

05 Gerry McGovern

06 Fabrizio Freda

The Communication Store’s CCO is the fashion PR’s fashion PR. He wears his clients’ clothes but makes them his own, and his look has inspired a generation of publicity professionals.

Having served under Harrods’ past two owners, the MD of the world’s most luxurious store is always dressed to perfection in Turnbull & Asser and Church’s.

Land Rover’s British design director has always worked in automotive design and many of his hires are now stars in their own right. His look is as striking as the new Discovery.

The Estée Lauder CEO is a great example of Neapolitan sartorial savvy. He is also an avid sportsman, giving him the frame to carry off immaculate tailoring.

07 Jamie Dimon

08 Armand Arton

09 Kenneth Chenault

10 Jason Atherton

Trump called him the worst banker in the US, but the JPMorgan Chase CEO (and potential next treasury secretary) is one of the smartest guys on Wall Street – in every sense.

The Canadian moneyman behind Arton Capital is also an ambassador at Global Citizen, a worldwide movement for social action. And his suits are as sharp as his conscience.

The CEO of American Express, Chenault enjoys all the privileges of heading a Fortune 500 company and never leaves home without his immaculate sense of style.

From Skegness, Atherton ran away to seek his fortune in London. Now he runs a global restaurant empire and lavishes as much attention on his Savile Row suits as his menus.

03 Daniel Marks

Photographs Alpha Press; Getty Images; Rex; Wayne Tippetts

01 Laurent Feniou

FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 137


GET THE LOOK

Tim BLANKS Editor (NEW ENTRY)

43

True style is finding a look and making it your own. Tim Blanks, one of the cleverest men in fashion, knows this well and it is the code by which he lives his life 1

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5 7 6

1. Shirt by Wood Wood, £100. At Asos. asos.com 2. Shirt by Louis Vuitton, £575. louisvuitton. com 3. Trainers by Valentino, £425. At matches fashion.com

4. Rucksack by Bally, £525. bally.co.uk 5. Shirt by Gucci, £725. gucci.com 6. Trousers by Orlebar Brown, £165. orlebarbrown.com 7. Jacket by APC, £190. At matchesfashion.com

Photographs Getty Images; Light Project Photography; Jonathan Daniel Pryce; Rex

4


41 Charles ABOAH Location scout (NEW ENTRY) “Whether in jeans or a suit, Charles Aboah is always the most stylish man in the room. He is so well put together that whatever he wears is automatically Aboah-appropriate.” Glenn Wassall, owner, LGA GQ says: The location scout spends his life behind the camera, but is also perfectly at home in front of it.

40 Jefferson HACK

Gutter credit hereplease Gutter name here

42

Publisher (NEW ENTRY) “Jefferson’s style is a lot like his personality – mannered, elegant, charming, considered, cool and British – and never boring.” Dame Natalie Massenet, chairman, British Fashion Council GQ says: The founder and publisher of the Dazed Group is one of the most influential figures in international style media.

Hu BING Model, actor (NEW ENTRY) “Hu Bing is always immaculately dressed. He takes note from British tailoring and does things with it that I’d never expect. He’s not afraid to push his luck a little and rarely plays it safe, which keeps everyone guessing. He really embraces fashion and certainly makes an impression whenever I see him at men’s shows.” Jim Chapman, vlogger and Contributing Editor, GQ GQ says: The Chinese model and actor has a vast social media following, making him one of the most recognised men on the planet.

FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 139


38 Olly ALEXANDER Musician (LAST YEAR NO.39) “His stage costumes are flamboyant, from rainbow glitter to leather basketball shorts, while his offstage gear is just as confident with real sartorial kudos. The boy ain’t shy.” Gary Armstrong, Fashion Editor, GQ Style GQ says: The lead singer of Years & Years is one of the most admired spokesmen of his generation.

37 Dermot O’LEARY

Waris AHLUWALIA Designer, actor (NEW ENTRY) “This is for his laid-back approach to everyday dressing. He’ll wear  a super-relaxed shirt with a classic tailored suit and espadrilles on the red carpet or a denim shirt with printed silk trousers and suede boots on the streets of Paris. Combinations that, on paper, shouldn’t work, but on Waris always do.” Alexandre, Laurent and Raphaël Elicha, founders, The Kooples GQ says: The Indian-American designer and actor has a style that manages to be both traditional and unique.

140 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

Photographs Getty Images; WireImage; xposurephotos.com

39

TV personality (LAST YEAR NO.31) “Besides being one of the most courteous gentlemen I’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting, Dermot is the perfect example of a guy who knows how to wear tailoring. He’s always immaculate on or off-duty, and always looks at ease.” Dean Gomilsek-Cole, head of design, Turnbull & Asser GQ says: What would British television be without Dermot? If he didn’t exist, we would have to invent him.


VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

Zayn Malik THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR

Zayn

36

MALIK Musician (NEW ENTRY) Who would have known back in 2010 when One Direction were being mentored by Simon Cowell that Zayn Malik would become a genuine global superstar. But love him or hate him, nobody could deny that Malik was born to the role, and that few of his peers look the part with such aplomb. He can certainly claim to be one of the best-dressed ex-boyband members in history. Sartorially he has never been afraid to push boundaries while knowing precisely which basics suit him, too. Gone is the slogan T-shirt skateboard grunge of his

younger days. Not that he is ever afraid to experiment, whether that be shaving his hair off to dyeing it blond, or rocking a pyjama suit. He always keeps true to the tried-and-tested favourites, such as black jeans, leather jackets and hi-tops, as well as his favourite double-breasted jackets to give him that classic gym-honed V-shape. Of course, with fame comes advantages, and he is equally at home in Louis Vuitton or Valentino as he is in street brands – whether he is on the red carpet or papped out shopping with supermodel girlfriend Gigi Hadid. Truly, he is the very model of the modern superstar. RJ


GET THE LOOK

Jack GUINNESS Model (LAST YEAR NO.33)

The model and DJ always looks effortlessly stylish and embodies the classic British look with a twist – a style that is as every bit as exuberant as his personality

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6 7

35 142 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

1. Blazer by Dior Homme, £3,000. dior.com 2. Blazer by Dior Homme, £3,000. dior.com 3. Loafers by Russell & Bromley, £225. russellandbromley.co.uk 4. Jumper by Z Zegna, £280. zegna.co.uk

5. Shirt by Armani Collezioni, £230. At Harrods. harrods.com 6. Shoes by Jimmy Choo, £495. jimmychoo.com 7. Blazer by Dolce & Gabbana, from £24,900. dolcegabbana.com

Photographs Wireimage; Rex/Shutterstock; xposurephotos.com; Getty Images; Light Project Photography; Jonathan Daniel Pryce

5


THE BESTDRESSED MEN AS VOTED ON GQ.CO.UK

David Beckham

David Gandy

David Gandy

Eddie Tom Redmayne Hiddleston

Tom Hiddleston

THIS year we decided to switch up our annual online vote to host a reader-powered play-off that pitted eight of the UK’s most stylish men against each other to find the best dressed. After tens of thousands of votes, Zayn Malik came out on top – becoming the first man to win the title twice (he also took the trophy in 2013). And it’s a doublewin that’s well deserved. Malik wears a wardrobe that many men, including us here at GQ HQ, seriously covet. See the play-offs as they happened below... NC

Idris Elba

Luke Evans

Luke Evans

Tinie Tempah

Zayn Malik

Zayn Malik

41

59

Tom Hiddleston

Zayn Malik

of the public vote

of the public vote

FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 143


33 Sir Elton JOHN Musician (LAST YEAR NO.24) “Sir Elton’s style has always been flamboyant. Although he dresses more modestly these days, he still manages to create a performance with his appearance. I love the way he doesn’t play it safe and isn’t one to conform.” Roger Frampton, fitness guru GQ says: The legendary singer-songwriter is a knight without peers.

34

Josep

Football Manager (NEW ENTRY) “Before a game, he focuses on every detail of his appearance, reflecting the nickname he earned back in Barcelona’s La Masia youth academy, ‘Don Perfecto’. And he always dresses like a winner.” Paul Henderson, Associate Editor, GQ GQ says: The Manchester City manager is, without doubt, the best-looking boss in the beautiful game.

GUARDIOLA

144 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017


31 James

NORTON

Photographs Getty Images; Instagram/@motelcoste; vantagenews.com

Actor (NEW ENTRY) “He’s just incredibly handsome. And along with a number of other great actors, he is tipped to be a contender for the next James Bond, which is hardly surprising.” Dean and Dan Caten, designers, DSquared2 GQ says: Next year the British actor will appear in the sequel to Flatliners alongside original star Kiefer Sutherland. Heartstopping stuff, no doubt…

32 Dimitri COSTE (@motelcoste)

Photographer (NEW ENTRY) “I have chosen Dimitri because he is a Parisian, so he understands all the rules of chic, but chooses to dress in a kitsch style, which of course he does in a very chic way. Also, he wears exactly the same clothes for work as he does for racing a dirt bike around a track, usually involving white jeans in varying states of abuse. His style is very popular, and unique.” Nick Ashley, creative director, Private White VC GQ says: A professional photographer and amateur motorcyclist, Dimitri is a real-life adventurer.


Jacket, £40. Trousers, £25. Both by Topman Limited. Shirt by Gieves & Hawkes, £145. Trainers by Common Projects, £250.


G Partnership

Light years

ahead Meet the Vision Mercedes-Maybach 6, a 750hp (550kW) electric coupĂŠ inspired by the past but built for the future


Jacket, £250. Shirt, £130. Both by Matthew Miller. Trousers by Lot78, £190. Shoes by Grenson, £235.


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It looks like it’s scythed in from a galaxy far, far away, but this Vision Mercedes-Maybach 6 represents the future of luxury on planet Earth. “It’s so sleek,” says Star Wars: The Force Awakens star, John Boyega, “And sophisticated.” This dramatic, super-swoopy coupé is certainly that, stretching over almost six metres in length. But despite its futuristic looks, it’s a vehicle that takes cues from Mercedes’ breathtaking early models. The round “boat tail” rear end, for example, is straight from the company’s art deco era. That’s not to say it’s a throwback. The 360° lounge interior – one of Boyega’s favourite features – is the brand’s most cutting edge to date. The Chesterfield-like seats monitor passengers’ vital functions to

create the perfect cabin temperature, while the front windscreen serves as a transparent display. Your driving data is beamed full width overhead, and to control what you’re seeing there are no buttons – you simply use hand gestures. The sci-fi swagger doesn’t end there. Instead of a combustion engine, all four aerodynamically tuned wheels are powered by a 750hp (550kW) pure electric motor with fast-charging batteries stowed underfloor. With its impressive dimensions, the Vision Mercedes-Maybach 6 is the first luxury coupé in a series of visionary design show cars from Mercedes-Benz. And the company is currently hard at work to bring the radical tech and styling to a galaxy near you sooner than you might think. We can’t wait.


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Bomber jacket, £1,015. Sweatshirt, £505. Both by Alexander McQueen. Trousers by Acne, £175. Trainers by Common Projects, £250. Grooming by Michael Gray at David Artists Using Vincent Longo cosmetics and OUAI hair Styling by Way Perry Set Design George Lewin Studio The model shown is the Vision Mercedes-Maybach 6 and official fuel consumption and CO2 figures are unavailable for this concept vehicle.


30 Racing driver (LAST YEAR NO.25) “Lewis Hamilton is, for me, a fashion appreciator and explorer – he is not scared of trying out new styles. He has a maximalist approach to fashion, always maintaining a casual yet edgy look. Adding a touch of bling and bold prints are his signature combination. He embodies what Philipp Plein the label is all about.” Philipp Plein, designer GQ says: The Formula One champion is as fearless with his fashion as he is behind the wheel. 152 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

29 Imran AMED Editor (NEW ENTRY) “Imran has a natural and unique sense of style, which is rare these days. He throws together fabric and texture well, in a way only he can carry off. The most amazing thing about Imran is that he looks equally as chic and stylish in a bespoke three-piece suit with a tie and pocket square. He’s a leader and pioneer in individuality.” Luke Sweeney, co-founder, Thom Sweeney GQ says: The man behind influential website The Business Of Fashion dresses like he knows what he is talking about.

Photographs Getty Images; matrixpictures.co.uk

Lewis HAMILTON


Bradley COOPER VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

Bradley Cooper THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR

Actor (NEW ENTRY) Let’s take a beat to gaze wantonly at Bradley Cooper’s style evolution and how one of Hollywood’s most in-demand actors came to represent the best of our fashion ambitions. He wears his handsomeness so lightly, his red-blooded cut and thrust almost naively. Take the besuited Bradley, a formal look the actor will throw together for a significant industry event, such as a film premiere or a charity function. He knows full well how to get a suit to hit his style sweet spots: go dark, go narrow (but not skinny) and go your own way. That means, often, a waistcoat and no tie – a SoCal tan and a megawatt smile helps – or even pattern on pattern (eg, patterned shirt on patterned tie) as he did at the New York premiere of Burnt. Of course, it’s off duty when Cooper’s easy-breezy, high-end yet soft-shouldered style comes into its own. Exhibit A: the Schott Men’s American College bomber jacket, either in shiny navy or marine green. Cooper has been rocking this garment – often with mirrored aviator shades, natch – before even Jaden Smith googled “athleisurewear”. The man is the dapper bro of Hollywood, the thinking man’s Leo DiCaprio. The guy is fly. Oh, and did we mention how handsome he is? JH

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27 Harry STYLES Musician, actor (LAST YEAR NO.6) “Harry can wear anything. It’s annoying. I remember once we were walking through an airport in Jamaica and were basically wearing the same clothes: a T-shirt, black jeans and brown shoes. He looked like a rockstar and I looked like his driver. Whether it’s a Gucci suit or swimming trunks he just always looks cool. It makes me angry.” James Cordon, TV personality GQ says: From reality hopeful to global superstar – and next stop is Hollywood. What else might the future hold for Harry?

26 David GANDY

Model, entrepreneur (LAST YEAR NO.10) “He’s simply the best at mastering perfectly tailored looks and has made the threepiece suit his own.” Andrea Tenerani, Creative & Style Director, GQ Italy GQ says: The term “man-crush” may as well have been invented for this modelturned-entrepreneur.


THE TOP TEN BESTUNDRESSED MEN

Photographs Eyevine; fameflynet.uk.com; Getty Images; goffphotos.com; infphoto.com; Instagram/@iblamejordan; Instagram/@camerondallas; xposurephotos.com Landmark Media; Photoshot; Rex

Once upon a time all a man had to do was sport a well-shaped suit, but today the abs, glutes and pecs all have to be equally well-cut. Here are the men who have nothing to hide

01 Orlando Bloom

02 Jordan Barrétt

When Bloom was snapped nude on a paddleboard in Italy last summer, he joined the elite group of male celebs whose privates have become public, almost breaking the internet.

Australian model/social media sensation @iblamejordan, aka Jordan Kale Barrétt, has Kate Moss and Lara Stone as fans – and is far from shy when it comes to taking his top off.

03 Zac Efron

04 Jamie Dornan

05 Hugh Jackman

06 Aidan Turner

Allegedly, actor Efron’s testicles have been described by those in the know as having a six-pack. We can’t guess what that might mean, but we suspect it’s a compliment.

Dornan came to prominence as the, ahem, face of Calvin Klein underwear. Since then he has turned to acting, making full use of his ample talents to play Christian Grey.

Despite nearing 50, the Aussie actor knows how to make the best of what nature (and the gym) has given him. Wolverine needs no body double – just a discreet sock, we’re told.

Turner’s topless hoeing scene in Poldark was one of TV’s most talked-about events. Even rumours of manscaping and baby oil have done his career little harm.

07 Dave Franco

08 Russell Tovey

09 Tom Daley

10 Cameron Dallas

James’ little bro is well on his way to stardom. Despite stripping off in the film Nerves, he’s mortified at the idea of being naked, but co-stars say he has nothing to be ashamed of.

It’s miles from Gavin & Stacey, but thanks to his role in HBO’s Looking, Tovey has become a gay icon. And it has certainly given him the confidence to shed some inhibitions.

The Rio Olympics may not have been the diver’s finest moment, but he’s still one of the country’s most recognisable athletes thanks to his tiny trunks and defined body.

American internet personality Dallas is just 22, but his Instagram feed of him in bed/the bath/various stages of undress has made him every teenage girl’s dream. FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 155


GET THE LOOK

David FURNISH Entrepreneur (LAST YEAR NO.33)

Nobody rocks the red carpet like David Furnish, but he is just at home in town. He knows it’s all about the best key pieces – and he always has the best shoes 1 2

4

3

6

1. Jumper by Jaeger, £99. jaeger.co.uk

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2. Loafers by Gucci, £370. At matchesfashion.com 3. Boots by Russell & Bromley, £245. russellandbromley.co.uk 4. Jeans by Diesel, £120. diesel.com

156 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

5. Bomber by Paul Smith, £650. paulsmith.co.uk 6. Rucksack by Tom Ford, £1,670. At Selfridges. selfridges.com 7. Shoes by Christian Louboutin, £1,095. christianlouboutin.com

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Photographs Ian Bartlett; Jonathan Daniel Pryce; Light Project Photography; wenn.com

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24 Luke DAY Editor (LAST YEAR NO.14) “Luke has a clever, chameleon-like ability to be stylish in an array of looks that are uniquely his own and instantly identifiable – continuously pushing the boundaries of fashion with his experimental approach to style and rejection of the status quo.” Gordon Richardson, creative director, Topman GQ says: The Editor of GQ Style lives for fashion but is never its slave.

23 Pharrell

WILIAMS

Musician (NEW ENTRY) “He is always taking risks and setting trends and looks effortlessly cool no matter the occasion. He’s a rule breaker, which is something I love. He’s not afraid to make bold decisions in what he wears.” Oliver Proudlock, reality TV star and entrepreneur GQ says: On other people, Pharrell’s wardrobe would look ridiculous – on him it just works. That’s real style. FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 157


21 Idris

ELBA 22 Aidan TURNER Actor (NEW ENTRY) “Aidan’s got a bit of a grungy feel to him; he’s a man’s man. He favours easy clothes that make him look cool, but also looks great in a tux – a dream to dress.” Oliver Spencer, designer GQ says: The TV period drama Poldark and The Hobbit trilogy made this Irish actor a huge star and we expect to see a lot more of him in future – in every which way.

Actor (LAST YEAR NO.16) “Long before Idris Elba linked up with Superdry, he developed a style of elegant simplicity that applied to himself and the parts he has played as an actor, giving him that rare combination of sleek fashion and natural style.” Suzy Menkes, International Editor, Vogue GQ says: The actor insists that he is too old to be the first black Bond, but the clever money insists that he is still in the running.


VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

Photographs Getty Images; Craig McDean/Art + Commerce

A$AP Rocky THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR

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A$AP ROCKY Musician (NEW ENTRY) When A$AP Rocky broke through, he made a pitch to the fashion world: will you have me? His lyrics insisted that he was in possession not only of the right swag (“Raf Simons, Rick Owens, usually what I’m dressed in”), but also a connoisseur’s eye (“I see your Jil Sanders, Oliver Peoples / Costume National, your Ann Demeulemeester”). Overtures are one thing; having them reciprocated is another – yet designers have since clutched Rocky to their bosom. These days, the Harlem rapper is as at home on the front row as he is behind a mixing desk, with a JW Anderson collaboration and Guess capsule range to his name. More significantly, in 2016, he was anointed a face of Dior Homme, the first black person to front the label. So how did he penetrate fashion’s inner sanctum? Simple: his personal style was as bold as his songs proclaimed. Whether it was his early street-goth phase – essentially, head-to-toe Black Scale – his esoteric haute-couture period, or current somewhere-inthe-middle sweet spot, he has always committed wholeheartedly to streetwear trends while taking risks in the process (looking at you, dress-length shirt). “I swear we gon’ have drama if you touch my tailored garments,” he raps on “Excuse Me”. No doubt. CB


THE TOP TEN WORSTDRESSED MEN 01 Lukas Forchhammer

02 Arron Banks

The frontman of Danish band Lukas Graham was brought up in a hippy enclave and it shows. He is so badly dressed it is almost refreshing.

Trump ally, Ukip backer and diamond mine owner Arron Banks is one of the big beasts of the UK political donor scene but still manages to wear a tie like a school boy.

03 Matt Healy

04 Nick Cannon

05 Paul Nuttall

06 Tyga

The 1975 lead singer has been described as “pretentious”, “unimaginative” and “annoying”. We’d simply describe him as a sad Harry Styles knock-off.

Mariah Carey’s ex is a rapper, actor, comedian and producer – and his wardrobe is equally multifaceted, from boyband reject to fedoras and diamante shoes. All bad.

The new Ukip leader wears loud striped ties, checked shirts and yellow jumpers – sometimes all at once. It’s as if Rupert Bear grew up and became the MEP for Nutwood.

The 27-year-old rapper is known for his affair with Kylie Jenner. His look is as controversial as his allegedly rich-kid background: more Halloween costume than hardcore hip hop.

07 Milo Yiannopoulus

08 Ross Noble

09 Adam Sandler

10 Dani Alves

Banned from Twitter for trolling, the British-born, rabidly right-wing journalist is in a minority all of his own as one of the world’s worstdressed gay men.

The Geordie stand-up is known for his surreal delivery, but when it comes to dressing he is sadly stolid. Alas, there is nothing funny about sacrificing style for comfort.

Few of Sandler’s recent film outings have raised much of a smirk. The same cannot be said for the awful ensembles he has been seen in when off-duty. Truly side-splitting.

Once one of the most expensive defenders in the world, the Brazilian footballer is a big winner in the terrible wardrobe league – his bizarre Elvis Instagram post is legendary.

160 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

Photographs Barcroft Images; Adrian Bliss; Getty Images; Photoshot; Rex; SilverHub; Splashnews; vintagenews.co.uk

For every sartorial hero it seems there has to be a zero. Some men don’t try hard enough – or, just as often, try way too hard. If you’re looking for what not to wear, here’s the naughty list


18 Jackson HARRIES

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Michael

Vlogger (NEW ENTRY) “Jack has always had a good sense of style. I can’t see him wearing anything that isn’t produced ethically. His dress sense is a reflection of his mentality – that’s cool.” Will Poulter, actor GQ says: This YouTube/Instagram star and dedicated environmentalist is in the vanguard of a new breed of celebrities.

17 Andrew WEITZ Entrepreneur (NEW ENTRY) “OK, I know this is potentially nepotistic, but he’s always the one guy I see around London Fashion Week, and I ask him where he got what he’s wearing on a daily basis. And all that with constant jet lag.” Dermot O’Leary, TV personality GQ says: Hollywood talent agent turned fashion consultant Weitz is one of the best-dressed men on the West Coast.

FASSBENDER Actor (LAST YEAR NO.27) “Michael is always dressed immaculately for the red carpet and has a great eye for tailoring. The fit of his suits is spot-on and his style is timeless. I think the fact he doesn’t have a stylist speaks volumes, and shows he’s genuinely into the clothes he wears.” Thom Whiddett, co-founder, Thom Sweeney GQ says: The Irish-German (and Hackney-based) Fassbender is rapidly becoming one of the finest actors of his generation. We look forward to the return of his android, David, in this year’s Alien: Covenant. FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 161


SKEPTA

15 Riz AHMED Actor (NEW ENTRY) “Riz is as stylishly conspicuous as the polka-dot pocket square he’s fond of. And he takes risks, pulling off with ease a metallic-blue Burberry suit.” Eleanor Halls, Staff Writer, GQ GQ says: From Nightcrawler to Star Wars, the actor and part-time rapper is carving out a role as one of the UK’s most talented performers.

1 6 Musician (LAST YEAR NO.7) “Everything he does is about staying true to yourself. This is the ultimate inspiration within style, but also within staying true to your own creative path regardless of fast fashion and celebrity culture’s impact. I’m grateful that artists like Skepta are around to influence us.” Astrid Andersen, designer GQ says: The British grime artist’s last album, Konnichiwa, was his most successful so far, and we watch his career with anticipation for greater things yet.

14 Justin TRUDEAU Politician (NEW ENTRY) “Regularly in the global spotlight at G20 summits and state dinners, Trudeau is always well turned out, but he isn’t afraid to dress down for public appearances, such as walking in gay pride parades.” Imran Amed, editor, The Business Of Fashion GQ says: In an uncertain world, Trudeau is Canada’s very best advert.


13 David BECKHAM Entrepreneur (LAST YEAR NO.4) “David Beckham puts his own twist on traditional English tailoring, and refreshes classic style in a way that’s modern and sophisticated.” Tommy Hilfiger, designer GQ says: His latest venture is the heritage British clothing label Kent & Curwen, and with the legend that is Beckham behind it, success seems assured.

Photographs Getty Images; Rex

12 Jaden SMITH

Actor, musician (NEW ENTRY) “I love that his style is so youthful and invigorating. He really embraces men’s fashion and moves style forward. He is an individual.” James Long, designer GQ says: From Hollywood brat to style icon – Will Smith’s son is busy carving himself a niche.


11 Gabriel-Kane DAY-LEWIS Actor (NEW ENTRY) “The tattoos, the rings, the chains, his very personal way to interpret the suits is the mirror of his strong personality and is the image of today’s young generation.” Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, designers, Dolce & Gabbana GQ says: When you share the genes of father Daniel Day-Lewis and mother Isabelle Adjani, you have had one the best starts life has to offer.

10 Jack O’CONNELL Actor (NEW ENTRY) “Jack embodies Belstaff’s adventurous and pioneering spirit with his fearless attitude, and he’s staying true to his British roots.” Delphine Ninous, collection creative director, Belstaff GQ says: From playing a teenage skinhead in This Is England to becoming a Hollywood action hero and working with Angelina Jolie, there is no stopping Derby’s favourite son.


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Photographs Getty Images; Benjamin McMahon

Jared

LETO

Actor, musician (NEW ENTRY) We all have that friend. You know the one. The one who’s a bit more fashion forward than the rest. Who wears things that are a little too catwalk. The kind of friend who is happy, let us say, pairing a military Balmain jacket with a white polo neck (fine) and snowboots (less fine). Who is cool with capes. And printed ponchos. And if a jumper just happens to have a lion stitched into the front, well, hell, the more jungle cats on knitwear the better. In the world of celebrity, this friend is Jared Leto. The thing is, we need Leto in our lives. Would we wear everything the Oscar winner does? No. The outfit he once performed in for his band Thirty Seconds To Mars, in which he looked – and there’s no other description – like a superhero sex pope from Mars? Possibly not. But the key to this friend – and therefore Leto – is that they push the boundaries for us. In this, it’s no shock that he’s become a fanboy for Alessandro Michele’s Gucci, and some of the most beautiful (and, yes, daring) menswear today. The green Gucci military-inspired coat he could be seen sporting at a Suicide Squad premiere? Brilliant – but a coat you need Leto’s cojones to wear. And it’s generally this friend that shows you that small details can be radical, too. Would we, as Leto did, wear a red carnation as a bow tie? Maybe not. But it makes us think differently. And that’s what this friend is for. SM


07 James CORDEN Actor, TV personality (NEW ENTRY) When most British stars find success in the US their wardrobes get very CBeebies – see Chris Martin – yet come 2016 Corden has truly hit his style stride. Snappy suits, paired-down polos and jeans that actually fit. A style stalwart in a world full of false idols. Jonathan Heaf, Features Director, British GQ GQ says: The most successful British export to the US since The Beatles.

08 Benedict CUMBERBATCH Actor (LAST YEAR NO.9) “The British have their own sense of style, which at best is all about an easy, gentlemanly elegance. They never look as if they are trying too hard. And some simply have the appearance of having been born to wear a tailored suit. Benedict Cumberbatch is one of those. This is not a quality that is easy to achieve. It requires a certain attention to detail, and yet in the hands of the truly stylish, like Benedict, the result is always one of natural insouciance instead of studied artifice.” Giorgio Armani, designer GQ says: From serious drama to Marvel superhero in Doctor Strange, it seems there is little that Cumberbatch cannot do.

DJ (LAST YEAR NO.2) “Nick can ‘rock up’ whatever he wears. Whether it is a slim-fitting two-button suit or a biker jacket with a shirt, Nick twists it to his personality.” James Sleaford, Fashion Director, GQ France GQ says: The Radio 1 Breakfast Show presenter is a fashion fanatic and a great clothes horse.

Photographs Jason Bell/Camera Press; Sebastian Faena; Getty Images; xposurephotos.com Stylist Michael Fisher at Starworks Artists Grooming Jason Schneidman at Solo Artists

06 Nick GRIMSHAW


Tom HIDDLESTON

Actor (NEW ENTRY) A new wave of British leading men means there’s more tux talent on red carpets right now than ever before – and even in such a sartorial shark tank, Tom Hiddleston out-dresses them all. Unlike many of his contemporaries, Hiddleston doesn’t grasp for our collective attention by going for garish colours or cornea-assaulting patterns, but instead through meticulous attention to detail. His go-to navy or charcoal tailoring and midnight blue, peak-lapel dinner suits might mean he’s one of the more conservatively dressed of the current crop of A-list film stars, but he will always find a way to inject personality through a cool geometric tie or detail like a tab-collar shirt. And it’s not just about the colour of the suits he pulls out before his press rounds, it’s also about the suits – this is a man who clearly takes the time to get his tailoring actually tailored before he wears it for the first time, meaning he rarely suffers from trouser legs pooling around his ankles (a plague that afflicts many young actors in an age of one-night-only PR samples). At a time when most men in the pop-culture public eye choose outfits that shout loud, his style proves wearing outfits that whisper can still mean you’re the most eye-catching dresser in the room. NC

VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

Tom Hiddleston THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR

05


UFC fighter (NEW ENTRY) “I’m a f***ing pimp, rocking all white Gucci mink, and without me, this whole f***ing ship sink,” says Conor McGregor. The shy and retiring UFC champion isn’t known for being understated, either in what he says or how he says it. But when it comes to his personal style, the “Notorious” one doesn’t need to make a big noise for everyone to stand up and take notice. Whether it’s his handmade three-piece David August suits, Louis Vuitton python loafers, of Dita Mach-One sunglasses, everything McGregor wears is delivered with all the balls-out braggadocio he can muster. “He’s such a style guy... he’s always been that way since the day I met him,” says his tailor, David Heil. “He takes everything and makes it his own. It takes a guy with the right mind to pull off these extreme looks, and he does.” But there’s more to McGregor’s dress sense than mere Rodeo Drive shopping sprees and bling-backed swagger. Every item is hand-picked, thought through and designed to make a statement. Before his last fight in Madison Square Garden, for example, McGregor rolled into town wearing a Coogi sweater inspired by New York hip hop legend Biggie Smalls. And when he hit the press conference before his fight with Eddie Alvarez, he was mocked by some for dressing in a white mink coat. Fight aficionados, however, noticed the Irishman’s outfit was a replica of the one worn by Smokin’ Joe Frazier in 1971 before the “Fight of the Century” against Muhammad Ali. Smart guy, smart dresser and a smart arse to boot. PH

04 Conor McGREGOR


Photographs Zeb Daemen; Getty Images; xposurephotos.com

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Luke EVANS Actor (RE-ENTRY) “Luke always looks well put together but never over-styled or pretentious. He dresses appropriately for every occasion and has an elegant masculine style that looks modern and somewhat relaxed. Luke looks fantastic in tailoring and wears jackets and suits well. He is the epitome of a well-dressed, handsome actor.” Jason Basmajian, chief creative officer, Cerruti 1881 GQ says: In a few short years, the Welsh-born actor has gone from a hobbit ally to international heart-throb.

02 Eddie REDMAYNE Actor (LAST YEAR NO.1) “Eddie moved from being a model to an actor with the greatest of ease. His dress sense is immaculate, ranging from designer suits to casualwear. He also gets his haircut at my salon (so, of course, I’d have to say he has a great haircut to complement whatever he wears).” Neil Moodie, celebrity hair stylist GQ says: From Stephen Hawking to Newt Scamander in Fantastic Beasts, is there any role his magic touch can’t bring to life?


VOTED MEN’S BRAND OF THE YEAR!

HOW TO... STAY COOL GET FIT AND LOOK SHARP IN 2017

Drake THE BEST DRESSED MEN IN THE WORLD and what you can learn from them

THE SORRY RETURN OF FOOTBALL VIOLENCE ALASTAIR CAMPBELL MEETS LABOUR’S MOST OUTSPOKEN POLITICIAN +INSIDE TRUMP’S WHITE HOUSE WARDROBE

+THE PERFECT DRIVERLESS CAR + THE BEST FILM YOU’LL SEE THIS YEAR

170 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

DRAKE

01 Photograph Weirphotos/Splash News

Musician (NEW ENTRY) You couldn’t talk about Drake last year without mentioning that wool turtleneck in “Hotline Bling”. The music video, which echoed endlessly around the internet, was as much a cultural moment for his awkward uncle dancing and intimate lyrics as it was for the baggy jumper, sweatpants and Timberlands. With Drake’s latest looks trending away from bright yellow top-to-toe tracksuits and towards customised sports luxe, he’s proving that it’s possible to look cool in an outfit that, in a cheaper guise, might otherwise never leave the sofa. Drake has been keenly and consistently developing a unique look over the last few years, which combines grime-y terrace fashion inspired by Italian menswear brand Stone Island, with preppy American court-side sportswear. He’s also demonstrated that he wants men to share in his imaginative, confident, butch style through his own label, OVO Sound (October’s Very Own). If men can wear incongruous, colourful, even cosy clothes out and about without losing an iota of their masculinity, it’s mostly thanks to Drake. Perhaps that’s the reason his latest hit, “One Dance”, with a billion plays on Spotify and counting, starts with a girl serenading him with the words “Baby, I like your style.” CQH


Hammer to fall: Police and stewards monitor angry supporters at the London Stadium, 26 October 2016

IRONS IN The owners of West Ham secured the deal of the century as tenants of Stratford’s Olympic Stadium, but the move has been plagued by a massive overspend at the taxpayers’ expense, botched planning and the return of hooliganism. GQ asks if the true cost of this new home will be a retreat to football’s dark past and the loss of a grand old club’s soul


WEST HAM

‘Suddenly coins were coming over. The stewards didn’t seem to do much. They let it carry on. Kids were hit’

THE FIRE STORY BY

Robert Chalmers


into the £51m overspend, charged to the taxpayer. News of this startling readjustment, part of which reflects the £8m annual cost of operating retractable seating, first estimated at £300,000, prompted the resignation of David Edmonds, chairman of the London Legacy Development Corporation (LLDC), which oversaw the arrangement by which West Ham inherited the venue and, along with Newham Council, jointly owns the stadium in a partnership registered as E20 Stadium LLP. Long-term concerns about West Ham’s presence in Stratford, however, don’t concern that financial deal, even if it is one that might have made Sergeant Bilko blush. More alarming, for local residents and the football community as a whole, are West Ham’s security problems, which are currently the subject of an FA inquiry and appear to have ended the assumption that violence inside Premier League grounds is a thing of the past. At the EFL Cup game against Chelsea in October, I had a press-box seat which offered an unobstructed view of the unpleasantness in the Sir Trevor Brooking Stand behind the goal on the south side of the ground. The end

‘What has happened at Stratford is a problem a lot of people in football saw coming’ is shared by home and away fans who were segregated, on that night, by 13 rows of empty seats draped in netting. During the first half, I could see Chelsea fans in the front row complaining to stewards about something (as it turned out, coins being thrown). By this time I’d found myself focusing less on the game – in which Slaven Bilic’s home side performed exceptionally to win 2-1 – and more on the crowd to my right. Chelsea supporters seated closest to West Ham fans, who were positioned on either side of the away section, turned away as they were goaded by fans who stood throughout the game, unhindered by stewards. (“What,” somebody asked when it was all over, referring to the home fans, “would they have done if they’d lost?”) Old-school Chelsea supporters have their own approach to conflict resolution, and when the taunting and gesticulation predictably escalated towards the end of the match into exchanges of missiles, including broken seats, and a charge across the wide gangway that runs between the stands, elements from both sets of fans were involved.

After police had restored order following the final whistle, the lift down from the press box to the media centre, which is on the ground floor, failed for several minutes. Together with a couple of other reporters, I waited with an elderly woman in a wheelchair, who had no other means of getting down. In that time, we had a good view of the street below and further skirmishes between fans, punctuated by police sirens, chants and the occasional sound of breaking glass. “This,” one senior colleague remarked, “takes me right back to the Sixties.” In the press conference after the game, Bilic, a hugely likeable man who is understandably weary of being asked to address such subjects as tearful children and frightened OAPs, was invited to comment on the latest ugliness. “Let’s speak for five minutes about the game,” he replied, before condemning the fans’ behaviour. “Great goals. Great performances. I noticed [the incidents] of course. For these kind of things to happen is unacceptable.” Bilic, to borrow his own phrase, is “a football manager, not a police officer”. He has never shirked difficult questions, as he demonstrated after last month’s 5-1 home thrashing by Arsenal: a “humiliation”, admitted Bilic, that had West Ham fans confronting the prospect of relegation. The inconvenient truth is that the defining images from the Chelsea EFL Cup match involve not players but spectators. Outside the ground, Paul Streeter, a Chelsea season-ticket holder, held the hand of his eight-year-old daughter, Victoria. “We were watching the game in the front row,” Streeter said. Suddenly there’s a whole load of coins coming over. Victoria was hit by seven of them. All over her body. The stewards didn’t seem to do much. They let it carry on. Other kids were hit.” “I am lucky,” said Victoria, “that I’ve got out of the game now and that it’s finished.” Watching games at the London Stadium this season, there has been a sense of tangible, if intermittent, unease. I’d already witnessed trouble in the Premier League fixtures against Bournemouth and Watford. “When we left the ground, we saw elderly Watford fans running away,” said one West Ham supporter, Barry Cox, 36. “I’d come with my young son. I needed to keep him safe.” Prior to the Chelsea game, the most alarming scenes had occurred during the 1-1 draw against Middlesbrough. Some travelling fans endured aggression that, according to one Teesside fan, reduced children to tears. “Half-full plastic bottles, coins and other missiles started coming into our section,” said one Middlesbrough fan, Jamie, who asked me not to include his surname. “Some people were cut, and had to leave. There were police

Photographs Rex/Shutterstock

t tends to be difficult, I suggested to David Gold, to erase the memory of any excursion that appears, however fleetingly, to have placed your life in danger. And that may be why, as I told West Ham’s co-owner, I have unusually clear recollections of the socalled Battle Of Green Street on 25 October 1975. Along with thousands of other Manchester United supporters, I found my route out of Upton Park blocked by a phalanx of home fans who were more enthused by GBH than by the elegance and bravado for which their team had become justly admired. As a teenager, it was only the second time I’d been to the capital. The experience established certain attitudes to West Ham United that have proved rather tricky to shift. “I remember that day very well,” said Gold. “After the game I went to my mum’s house across the road. I had a very good view of Green Street. I looked out at this incredible sight: all of those Manchester United supporters and the West Ham fans waiting for them. I saw you,” he added. “You can be pretty quick on your feet when things get intense.” We had this conversation at Gold’s mansion in Caterham, Surrey, in August 2012. As the playful irony of his last remark might suggest, he was relaxed and in good spirits. The Olympics had begun a few days earlier and West Ham seemed well-placed to assume the tenancy of the Olympic Stadium, now known as the London Stadium. Recalling the unbridled aggression of the Seventies (during which period, it should be said, Manchester United supporters enjoyed a reputation as shameful as any club in Europe) felt, Gold said, like revisiting a bygone era. “It was appalling,” he told me. “The game had become so tribal and so violent. It was a very dangerous time.” Four years on, following the recurrent crowd trouble that has marred West Ham’s move to their new home, you wonder just how safe it was to consign such scenes to history. The club have a 99-year lease as tenants at the venue, completed, then adapted for football, at a total cost of £752 million, to which West Ham contributed £15m. As anchor tenants, they pay an annual rent of £2.5m. This arrangement has enabled the club to sell 52,000 season tickets in the 60,000 capacity stadium, most at well below the market rate. In early November it emerged that the cost of converting the facility for football (estimated at £272m) had actually been £323m. London mayor Sadiq Khan ordered an investigation


WEST HAM Target man: The home contingent react to a lone Chelsea supporter; (below) Police muster before the match, 26 October 2016

‘They put away fans in the middle of ours. What did they expect to happen? They are going to get their heads kicked in’


The madding crowds: At the converted Olympic Stadium, home fans have clashed with visitors; (inset) police in riot gear watch as the crowds leave for Stratford, 26 October 2016

‘These people chant, “We are West Ham.” But they’re not. West Ham is Trevor Brooking. West Ham is Bobby Moore’


Photographs AFP; Getty Images; Eddie Keogh; Reuters

WEST HAM barricades but the West Ham fans somehow managed to get in front of and behind us – we were trapped. They didn’t care who they hit – parents carrying young children and old men with their families. It was shocking.” Walking to the stadium from Stratford before the subsequent league victory over Sunderland, which passed without incident, I met a pair of middle-aged home supporters. “They’ve put the away fans,” one said, referring to the Sir Trevor Brooking Stand, “right in the middle of ours. What the f*** did they expect would happen? Of course [the visitors] are going to get their heads kicked in.” At the home match against Stoke City in early November, and subsequent games at The London Stadium, a serious police presence in the stadium and the removal of 150 season-ticket holders from the previously notorious Block 114, a focal point of aggravation in earlier matches, allowed games to pass off without major incident. And yet, given the design and location of the ground and the bitter mood among some West Ham supporters, it would be foolhardy to assume that the ugly scenes against Chelsea will not be repeated in encounters with other rivals. How did it come to this? When serious hooliganism first began to plague English football, in the Sixties, there was a liberal school of thought that contended such violence was a natural response to the dehumanising effect of decrepit facilities. Treat people like animals, by depriving them of adequate space, decent food and toilet facilities, some argued, and they’ll behave like animals. Give them a clean, modern environment and their behaviour will rapidly change for the better. At the London Stadium, the reverse seems to have been the case. In and around West Ham’s old ground, at Upton Park, officially known as The Boleyn Ground (capacity 35,000) fan behaviour in recent years, while never exactly saint-like, was always under control (at least, that is, until the last ever home fixture against Manchester United, on which more later). Were you to be travelling to West Ham’s new home for the first time, the first thing likely to strike you is the lack of segregation outside the ground. Fans converge on Stratford, the tenth busiest train station in Britain, from all directions via bus, Tube, Overground and the DLR. Visiting supporters tend to make the 20-minute walk to the ground from here. After matches, fans collide with patrons leaving the vast Stratford Westfield shopping centre in an atmosphere that can be chaotic for the shoppers and undoes whatever degree of relaxation they have achieved through retail therapy. Whether separation of supporters around this concourse is necessary or achievable is a debate that’s likely to ignite at some point

When hooliganism plagued football in the Sixties, it was a response to dehumanising, decrepit facilities – for instance when West Ham next draw their combative near-neighbours Millwall in the FA Cup. Once inside the arena, you will notice that it doesn’t feel like a football ground. The wide gangways that traverse the stands are patently unsuited to effective crowd control. If your seat is level with the halfway line, you’re behind dugouts that are 18 yards from the pitch. It’s a radical departure from Upton Park, whose power to invigorate the home side largely derived from the proximity of London fans to away players. West Ham’s poor home form since they came to the soulless new arena could yet cost their Croatian manager his job. It got to the point, he added after the Arsenal defeat, that the pitch appeared to “get bigger. And it is already big, this pitch. I did not want to feel like this.” As a first-time visitor in the away section, there is still a possibility that you may not feel entirely safe. Most large clubs have cohesive security protocols that have taken years to perfect and implement. West Ham’s new ground was not set up to work quite like that. E20 Stadium LLP, the partnership between LLDC and Newham, was placed in charge of match-day security. The stewards (many of whom are more used to controlling events in performance arenas and have seemed unwilling to intervene early when trouble is looming) are supplied by an operating company called London 185 on behalf of E20. It sounds complicated, and it is. People naturally assume that West Ham’s joint owners, David Sullivan and David Gold, and their vicechair, Baroness Brady, are to blame for the history of uncoordinated policing at the London Stadium: this is unfair, in that the club’s senior executives have been pressing more vigorously than anyone for a solution to crowd control, towards which goal the game against Stoke appeared to be an encouraging first step.

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est Ham, at the time of writing, are collaborating fully with the FA’s inquiry into their security problems, not the least of which has been that the Metropolitan Police’s radio system initially did not function in the ground. Were you to design a stadium, in terms of

location, access and policing, with the sole aim of rendering crowd control problematic, you could do worse than replicate the Stratford model. That said, one stubborn truth remains: no stadium ever started a riot. So who should we blame for the distressing scenes that ruined the London Stadium’s birth as a football venue? West Ham? The club’s ethos remains bewildering to most supporters of other teams, who tend to perceive them as a mass of contradictions. The East End club have remained, or at least tried to remain, faithful, over decades, to an admirable core belief that youth, creativity and style on the pitch are paramount. For their fans, certainly, dogged proficiency has never been enough. West Ham have produced some of the most dignified and respected individuals in the game, such as Sir Trevor Brooking and, especially, the late Bobby Moore. At the same time many followers of the club seem to have embraced what many outsiders consider to be an unusual tolerance for violence. This goes back way beyond the Eighties and gangs like the Inter City Firm, now fêted as legends by some authors and directors. I can recall a meeting with George Best during which the conversation turned to the game in 1967 when Manchester United secured the title with a 6-1 win at Upton Park. His memories of that day, Best told me, were tainted by the fact that “every time I looked at the terraces, I seemed to see the same thing: people with cracked skulls, men lying on stretchers, young kids with their faces covered in blood”. West Ham vice-chair Brady and others have characterised the trouble in recent matches as being caused by a “tiny” minority, a perception that, if true, will guarantee any further difficulties can swiftly be resolved by issuing banning orders. A friend who is a West Ham season-ticket holder told me that he anticipated trouble at the London Stadium because “there are still 20,000 nutters in there”. That difference of opinion is not of the kind that could be settled by a re-count. Is it unfair, I asked football writer Patrick Barclay, to suggest that – while, say, Arsenal, Tottenham and QPR, have moved on – many West Ham supporters harbour an archaic penchant for gang culture that is partly to blame for what has been going on in Stratford? There are, Barclay replied, “undeniably people who still see West Ham not as a football team but a ‘firm’. These people may chant, ‘We are West Ham.’ Well – they’re not. These are voices from the past. West Ham has nothing to do with middle-aged men throwing missiles into seated areas that contain women and children. West Ham is [their current longserving captain] Mark Noble. West Ham is Trevor Brooking. West Ham is Bobby Moore.” Talk to some purists, and the root of the problem is very simple. The Olympic Stadium,


as the mayor’s ongoing inquiry indicates, was a hugely expensive project funded overwhelmingly by the taxpayer. Public funds built the magnificent arena in which Jessica Ennis-Hill and Mo Farah won their gold medals. The venue also hosted Danny Boyle’s widely acclaimed opening ceremony: a celebration of national achievement, in which an outstanding contribution in the field of mindless hooliganism was one of the few areas of British prowess to be overlooked.

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o who do we entrust with the legacy? Three rapacious capitalists: Messrs and Mme Sullivan, Gold and Brady. Putting them in charge of this national treasure, their enemies argue, was a bit like ending The Wind In The Willows by leaving the stoats and weasels in charge of Toad Hall. There’s an unconcealed moralistic undertone to this school of thought. Sullivan made a fortune out of soft pornography. Brady accepted a non-executive directorship at a company belonging to the Arcadia group, owned by billionaire Sir Philip Green. Gold also has a background in retailing “adult” publications. West Ham’s three most senior executives united, in the minds of their critics, in a kind of unholy trinity of avarice. And there is, whatever your perspective, no denying that they are all rather keen on money. In 2000, on BBC 5 Live, presenter Nicky Campbell invited Gold to give listeners a 60-second description of his Surrey estate. “I believe that you have your own nine-hole golf course,” Campbell prompted his guest. “Yes,” Gold replied. “I’m very proud of it.” Conversation then turned to Gold’s watch, and its generous allocation of diamonds. “I must say,” Gold told his hosts, “that, all through my life, I have been very, sort of, erm, what’s the word...” “Greedy?” volunteered one of Campbell’s co-presenters. When I interviewed Gold at his lavish property in 2012, it was agreed that nothing he said about the Olympic Stadium would be published at the time. The games were, after all, in full swing. Speaking off the record, he said quite a bit. As follows. “They’ve built the wrong bleeding stadium. They’ve built it,” he said, “without considering what had happened in Beijing, Rome and Portugal [sic]. All of these stadiums, with the odd exception, have been disasters. Because nobody has said that the only sustainable stadium is one in which you can keep the legacy, but you build it in such a way that you can put a football pitch on it. You can’t go there and just put a pitch in the middle. There has to be a lot of work done.” Quite how satisfied Gold feels when he surveys the London Stadium is hard to know

(in common with Sullivan and Brady he was unavailable for interview for this story). When I spoke to leading stadium design expert Paul Fletcher, a former director of Wembley Stadium who oversaw the construction of new stadiums at Coventry, Bolton and Huddersfield, he broadly echoed the sentiments of the West Ham co-chairman. When he was called in as a consultant at the design stage by a member of the London Olympic planning committee, Fletcher said, “I told them there is one opportunity for legacy with this stadium: football. I felt there was only one feasible tenant: West Ham. They had their own ideas. What has happened at Stratford,” he added, “is a problem that a lot of people in football saw coming.” Even John O’Connell, chief executive of the Taxpayers’ Alliance, who has described the Olympic Stadium deal as “ludicrous”, says that you can’t blame the West Ham board for negotiating the most favourable settlement they could. Had the club’s original status as preferred bidder not been challenged by Tottenham and Leyton Orient, and had the government not vacillated for so long over how to bequeath, as it has, a facility theoretically suitable for athletics and multipurpose use, says Fletcher, many of the current problems would never have arisen. Fletcher points out that Manchester City’s Etihad Stadium, also funded from the public purse, as part of the 2002 Commonwealth Games, “was designed as an athletics venue that would be turned into a football ground.

Manchester City had a big say in the way it would be built and then adapted.” The Etihad has been the source of considerable controversy concerning its funding and subsequent sale, but is considered a far safer facility than City’s old ground at Maine Road. “In the case of the Olympic Stadium,” Fletcher added, “what happened was that a load of architects and consultants sat around in a studio, designed this facility that looked rather beautiful on paper and then essentially said, ‘Right. What shall we do now?” And everything you’re seeing now is a consequence of that.” What can we do to fix it? “Tear it down,” Fletcher said, “and start again.” Was he joking? “No.”

iscontent with the Stratford facility is not confined to West Ham’s critics. The club’s soul, some supporters feel, still resides at Upton Park, their home for 112 years before they left last summer. “Stratford’s a shit-hole,” is a chant you still hear en route to the London Stadium. “We want to go home.” Daunting as that small arena was, there was a great deal to love about the old stadium. It was, at the risk of descending into cliché, a proper club, from the scarf sellers to the local cafés, to the people who served tea and pies in the press box. And Upton Park was, very importantly, their own. West Ham’s proud anthem, “I’m Forever

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The West Ham firm The co-owners, vice-chair and manager have all had roles to play in the Hammers’ controversial move from Upton Park to the former Olympic Stadium in Stratford

David Sullivan

David Gold

Karren Brady

Slaven Bilic

Co-chairman and the largest shareholder of West Ham, Welsh businessman Sullivan first made his fortune in pornography and in 1982 served 71 days in prison for living off immoral earnings before being released on appeal. Although a lifelong Hammers fan, he first ventured into football in 1993 when he bought Birmingham City, before taking control of West Ham in 2010.

Gold, originally from London’s East End, also has a history in adult publications, owns lingerie chain Ann Summers and is Sullivan’s main business partner, having previously co-owned Birmingham City with him. In 2005, he bought the second FA Cup at auction for £488,620. His outspoken comments and tweets about the club divides opinion among supporters.

After she helped Gold and Sullivan sell Birmingham City in 2009, Brady joined the two businessmen at West Ham as vice-chair the following year. Brady has cast herself as a controversial figure among West Ham fans due to her influential role in the club’s move to the London Stadium and has been subject to verbal abuse at home games this season.

The current West Ham manager is a fan favourite, having played for the Hammers in the Nineties and steered the team to seventh place last season – the club’s highest finish since 1999. Bilic has also gained recognition for bringing talent such as French international Dimitri Payet to the Premier League for what looks like a bargain £10m.


Photographs Getty Images; Reuters/Suzanne Plunkett; Rex/Shutterstock

WEST HAM Blowing Bubbles”, a recording of which still greets the team as they take to the pitch, is a peculiar rallying song in many ways. If you think its chorus line, “Then like my dreams, they fade and die” seems like a melancholic resignation to eventual catastrophe, then you should investigate the verses. “When shadows creep / When I’m asleep / To lands of hope I stray / Then at daybreak / When I awake / My bluebird flutters away.” The waltz, composed in America in 1918 and adopted by West Ham ten years later, is less a bracing call to arms, more a mournful acknowledgment that every human endeavour ends in disappointment. West Ham supporters’ shared awareness of possible doom has not only survived the move to the new stadium: it’s been invigorated by it. The kind of remark I’ve heard more than once is: “[Sullivan, Brady and Gold] can sell up and walk away. If they do, we won’t own a stick.” In their dark moments, supporters imagine themselves suffering a fate similar to other clubs that have experienced the loss of their homes, such as Coventry City, York, and Stockport County. In early September, Brady was verbally abused by West Ham fans during the home fixture with Watford. Nostalgia for the old ground is believed to have been a factor in that incident. Brady had already antagonised traditionalists in October when she addressed the Leaders’ Sports Business Summit. “We saw a real opportunity to change the brand values of the club,” Brady said. “Rebranding ourselves was really important at this new stadium.” She pointed out that, when Gold and Sullivan bought West Ham, “One: it had £100m worth of debt. Two: it had no – what I would call – culture.” These bold declarations ignited a phone-in on TalkSport radio, hosted by a suitably energised Danny Kelly. “Get the expensive pies in. And the lobster tails. And fetch the goat’s cheese ciabatta,” he growled. “When I heard the word ‘brand’, my hackles were up. And I’m not even a West Ham fan. The thing these people don’t seem to understand is what these teams mean, historically and to the local community.” “What the owners have to remember,” said Danny, a caller from Essex, “is that at West Ham we are not manufactured. We all know each other, going back to our granddads, and our mates. Rebrand? Bobby Moore will be spinning in his grave.” Upton Park was a nightmare to get away from, even for home fans. But it was unique, it was exciting and it had history. And for visiting supporters, it never lost that undercurrent of menace. Which could be managed. Usually. At five in the afternoon of West Ham’s final game at Upton Park, on 10 May 2016, against Manchester United, I was standing on the corner of Green Street, close to the stadium entrance where the away team bus pulls in. There were fans hanging from lamp posts and

It’s probable, had the bus windows not been armoured glass, that a player would have been killed or blinded crowding onto traffic islands. Even at that time the atmosphere seemed volatile, if not yet out of control. Once the Manchester United coach arrived, and was hemmed in by baying West Ham supporters, it wasn’t long before the bricks and bottles began to fly. It’s very probable that, had the windows not been protected by armoured glass, a player would have been killed or lost his sight. One of the many peculiar things about that last evening at Upton Park was that an hour after the bus was first trapped (and ten minutes after Wayne Rooney had appeared on Sky explaining that “the coach got smashed up – it wasn’t nice”), Sullivan was interviewed on the pitch, blaming the visitors for the 45 minute delay to kick off. “I am gravely disappointed for our supporters,” he said, apparently one of the few people unaware of what had been going on. “Manchester United should have got here at four o’clock.” What, he was asked, would he miss most about the old ground? “The family atmosphere,” said Sullivan. (What matters in life, Bilic would say last month about his team, “is not who is guilty of something, but who is responsible.”) Sullivan had been annoyed that a delay to the kickoff would disrupt a closing ceremony. Very moving in parts, its climax was a performance by Cockney Rejects, who have long been at pains to emphasise their non-fascist principles and have vigorously distanced themselves from the less tolerant ideals of other groups connected with Eighties oi punk. There were also several film crews present on that night of mixed emotions. Brady has announced that West Ham are working on the production of a film called Iron Men, which will follow the move to Stratford. “It’s about the transition of the values and the history of West Ham supporters from The Boleyn Ground to the London Stadium,” she said: in response to which you can only say good luck with that. Where Stratford is concerned, some very awkward questions remain. Most importantly, when will every area of this stadium be perceived as safe? At the time of writing, many fathers would think long and hard before taking young children close to the away section of this ground. While the origins and nature of the facility’s problems in areas such as crowd

control and design are not exactly difficult to identify, they may prove far harder to eradicate completely. Especially since there’s a real, if unwelcome, risk that certain elements may begin to view the London Stadium less as a destination for a day trip with the kids and more as an arena where, over the season, away fans compete to see who can display their UFC skills to most gruesome effect. Will West Ham ever make this place their own? Certainly, potential sponsors already see the stadium as being inextricably linked with the reputation of the club: following the violence against Chelsea, the Indian technology company Mahindra pulled out of a naming rights deal that would have recovered around £4m for the taxpayer. British Athletics has a binding 50-year contract that guarantees them priority use of the stadium in the month of July. Next summer, the venue is set to host the Athletics World Championships, but the 207-page document that formalised the arrangement between the club and the LLDC explicitly states that, while the club may notionally occupy the ground for a mere 25 days of the year, “the facility shall retain the look and feel of the home ground of West Ham United, during the football season, without limitation”. Given that assurance, the club has to hope that, with time, the more grandiose origins of the Olympic Stadium fade in the collective consciousness with the same speed that allowed The Millennium Dome to morph into The O2 Arena. Can it ever feel like home? Whenever former players speak about Upton Park, it’s hard even for neutrals to ignore the depth of affection for the old stadium. Former player and manager Paolo Di Canio told me that “West Ham is incredible, the fans are incredible, and the ground, too, is incredible. I’m feeling emotional now, just reliving the experience of walking through the gates.” “It was part of us,” said former player Tony Gale. “It was unbeatable.” Will that degree of emotion, and folk memory, and the distinguished history of honourable players such as Bobby Moore, Martin Peters and Sir Trevor Brooking permeate the new ground by some kind of strange osmosis? Or will West Ham’s troubled London Stadium, which seemed so marvellous a bargain when it was first secured, gradually acquire its own, far less inviting, kind of renown?

MORE FROM GQ

For these related stories, visit GQ.co.uk/magazine

Football’s Forgotten Disaster (Robert Chalmers, June 2015) The Rat And The Sinking Ship (Robert Chalmers, February 2015) Football’s Dark Heart (Robert Chalmers, July 2014)


WHERE WE’RE GOING, WE DON’T NEED DRIVERS Autonomous cars have never been closer to everyday reality. To explore the roads of tomorrow, GQ reverse-engineers three hot concepts and designs our own vision for a future that’s fast approaching

y 2030, experts estimate, 380 million autonomous cars will be navigating the world’s roads. The transition has already begun: “function-specific automation” – electronic stability control or braking systems that preload for maximum deceleration when the car senses impending doom – has been around for a while. BMW, Mercedes and Volvo will sell you a car right now capable of driving itself, but really we’re just getting started. Fans of old-fashioned automotive interaction aren’t keen, but resistance is futile. Key advantages include time saving, reduced congestion and, most compelling of all, the elimination of road traffic fatalities. (Human error causes 76 per cent of all accidents.) Broadly speaking, think of the process happening in four stages: feet off, hands off, eyes off, brain off. Challenges? Fully autonomous cars will have to process colossal amounts of data to make intelligent decisions and will need to develop, or at least mimic, the human ability to adapt or improvise according to the environment. Legislature will also have to figure out who’s culpable if the autonomous car still manages to crash. The insurance industry isn’t yet sure who pays up. And, as human existence often boils down to tricky moral quandaries, can we ever expect an artificially intelligent machine to cope? This is our pitch for a vehicle fit for this bold future, and the cars that inspired it.

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STORY BY

Jason Barlow

Forward projection: For Bentley, the Future Of Luxury harks back to the chauffeured past of motoring’s early years


THE GQ CAR

Holographic butler You could argue that Bentley has been a specialist in autonomous cars since the company’s inception: if you owned one, you paid someone to drive it for you. Now add a holographic butler. “Luxury is always related to service. People don’t like the idea of talking to a hidden microphone,” Bentley design director Stefan Sielaff says. “We are thinking of how to personalise the next generation of communication.”

Interior If you live in Silicon Valley, leather isn’t just passé, it’s positively offensive. So Bentley is exploring sustainable “protein leathers”, glass and textiles. Even granite and other stone is an option. At a mere tenth of a millimetre thick, it won’t pulverise the car’s power-to-weight ratio. There’s also “quilted” wood inside.

1. BENTLEY FUTURE OF LUXURY For a British company with such a rich heritage, Bentley is behaving in an increasingly provocative way. That speaks volumes for how profoundly it expects the car world to change in the coming decades. Its Future Of Luxury isn’t a car so much as an unexpectedly extreme manifesto: the company’s engineering boss, Rolf Frech, claims that “you discover more when you agitate the audience”. A new luxury hierarchy will soon reveal itself and, increasingly, cars will be designed from the inside out. Bentley plans to be at the forefront of this new revolution.


Driving The Vision Next 100 recognises that a BMW should still be the ultimate driving machine, even if the machine is doing most of the driving. In “Boost” mode, there’s a slimline steering wheel, which slides into view for the driver, who is now in charge. Select “Ease” mode and the wheel disappears, while the windscreen turns into a display screen. “The statement we want to make here is that the driver is not going to be redundant, not if we have anything to do with it,” BMW’s design director Adrian van Hooydonk insists.

Inside The occupant is also supported by a “Companion”, and the car’s ability to see around corners or sense potential hazards is telegraphed to the responsible adult within. The entire top of the dashboard glows red if the car spots a pedestrian or similar obstacle. BMW is also pioneering a technology called Alive Geometry, which uses 800 inter-locking triangles to communicate with the occupants.

182 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017


THE GQ CAR

2. BMW VISION NEXT 100 “BMW will turn data into intelligence and enhance life,” says CEO Harald Krueger. “The Vision Next 100 offers a clear picture of future mobility and demonstrates how the car will enrich our lives with personal services.” Is this a giant smartphone that thinks it’s a car? Or a car that wants to be a smartphone?

Outside

Vision of beauty: BMW’s Alive Geometry uses a series of triangles that morph according to circumstances

“No one here today is going to be around in 100 years to check, so I can’t really say whether we’ll get it right,” van Hooydonk admits. “But we want to shape the future rather than wait for it to arrive.” He also says that the Vision Next 100 keeps most of BMW’s visual cues – solid stance and proportions – because they’re what makes a BMW a BMW. Even if it is one that can drive itself. Covered wheels provide huge aerodynamic gains; the Vision Next 100’s “skin” moves to allow the wheels to turn properly without losing their efficiency. FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 183


3. Mercedes-Benz F 015 “Anyone who focuses solely on the technology has not yet grasped how autonomous driving will change our society,” says Mercedes head Dr Dieter Zetsche. “The car is growing beyond its role as a mere means of transport and will ultimately become a mobile living space.” Your car will become a “third space”, a fully connected, lavishly appointed and self-driving conduit between home and office.

Powertrain An electric hybrid system combines with a hydrogen fuel cell to deliver a range of 1,100km – around 200km of battery-powered driving and 900km on the electricity generated by the fuel cell. 184 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

Open road: The F 015 may not be easy to park, but much of its 10 sq m footprint is given over to those inside


THE GQ CAR

Outside The F 015 is ďŹ ve metres long and two metres wide, but most of its length is in the wheelbase to maximise interior space. The body is made of carbon ďŹ bre-reinforced plastic, combined with aluminium and steel to reduce weight by up to 40 per cent compared to a conventionally bodied vehicle. Front and rear-hinged doors open to 90 degrees and the absence of a B-pillar gives unimpeded access to the cabin. The car communicates with its surroundings visually and acoustically. Large LED displays at the front and rear and a laser projection system offer highly visible warnings, but the F 015 also issues audio messages.

Inside The F 015 offers a continuous dialogue between vehicle, passengers and the outside world. No fewer than six touchscreens run seamlessly throughout the cabin, although the occupants can also use gesture control to interact with them. Or they can just hermetically seal themselves off and fondle open-pore walnut wood, shaped to a three-dimensional veneer, or the ice-white nappa leather. The F 015 also uses more technical materials designed using matrix graphics, including Plexiglas on the side panels. Four sculpted chairs enable the passengers to face each other. FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 185


4. AN AUTONOMOUS CONCEPT BY BRITISH GQ The new automotive revolution may spell the end for the internal combustion engine, and cars will also be fully capable of driving themselves, challenging the very idea of driving for driving’s sake. Not at GQ, though. Our vision blends autonomy with aesthetics, efficiency with old-fashioned entertainment, and technology with exemplary taste. This is the ultimate future automotive experience.

Biometrics Stability control and chassis systems will modify their threshold of intervention by measuring your heartrate, blinking and perspiration. In other words, if it determines that you had an amusingly late night, the car’s various systems will seamlessly intercede to keep everything pointing in the right direction. Or if you’re on top of your game, they’ll back off and let you play.

Inside Interior glass doubles as a viewing screen and can be configured to flow completely around the cabin or framed within the conventional windscreen. Voice activation and gesture control allows occupants to move between media sources, choose their entertainment, send emails or post on Instagram via “thought waves”. The seats can be moved into a “lounge” configuration, with passengers facing each other. The car’s operating system learns the driver’s moods, music and information preferences and also offers full 186 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

connectivity to the outside world. Car and driver are in constant dialogue, but the vehicle will only advise and never argue... A range of voices can be licensed and selected: we’d recommend Tom Hiddleston or Rosamund Pike. Sustainable textiles trim the cabin, but saddle leather remains a desirable option and, if specified, sweeps up across the side of the car. It’s important to see the car as part of the move towards “hyper-analogue”: people still want to touch and feel physical things. But we stop short of featuring a turntable for vinyl records.


THE GQ CAR Powertrain

Outside

Electric motors in the four wheel hubs, with batteries stored under the floor, produce 522kW, equating to 700bhp. (Upgrades to 750kW are available, to deliver the equivalent of 1,000bhp.) A version powered by a hydrogen fuel cell is also available for maximum efficiency and minimum emissions, but it’s not as much fun.

A long bonnet echoes the luxury cars of the jazz age, but houses the bespoke luggage GQ has commissioned from Goyard. The car’s chassis is carbon fibre with composite body panels, which are light and strong, but the inner structure uses specially sourced and treated wood. “Parametric” body panels reconfigure the car’s shape according to the speed of travel, to optimise its aerodynamic efficiency. In automated mode, it’s effectively an enclosed teardrop; if the driver has taken over, spoilers and other aero devices appear to improve stability and handling. The body has a low centre of gravity and its wheels can be enclosed to optimise airflow or exposed for aesthetic effect. Different elements can be added or adapted using 4-D printing. Access is via a single-piece canopy door. It still has a grille: electric cars need radiators for cooling after high-speed runs, and this also gives the car a “face”, and therefore personality. We don’t want an amorphous blob. The laser lights, though, can be ultra-slim.

Illustration Sinelab

Driving modes

Lift off: You don’t need a DeLorean to see the future of motoring – GQ’s concept coupé could be it

By using stereo imaging cameras, radar sensors and a Mercedes-style “car-to-x” communication, the vehicle is capable of driving itself, the ideal option in congested cities or on a busy motorway. Once you’ve exited the main road and found your favourite B-road, the steering wheel slides out of its recess, disengaging “autopilot” mode so you can enjoy yourself for the last 20 minutes. The in-car HDD stores the sound of the world’s best cars and offers a perfect audio simulation of, say, a 1967 Ferrari 330 P3/4. FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 187


CAP From £2. At Ebay. ebay.com

T R AV E L WA L L E T By Smythson, £2,395. smythson.com

BOOK

JACKET

The New Tsar: The Rise And Reign Of Vladimir Putin by Steven Lee Myers Simon & Schuster, £20

By Hackett, £650. hackett.com

SUIT AND SHIRT

Orange is the new black Donald John Trump is perhaps among the most unlikely presidentelects in the history of the United States. Satsuma complexion? Check. Candy floss hair? Check. But GQ says all hail to the chief and offers a few tips on how to dress 45th POTUS-style. From the grand-old-man look of the inauguration to the let-his-hairdown trip to meet allies across the globe, here’s our plan to make friends and influence people… PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Suit, £350. Shirt, £85. Both by Tommy Hilfiger. tommy.com

HEADPHONES By Bose, from £279.99. At John Lewis. johnlewis.com

HOLDALL By Berluti, £2,550. berluti.com

Simon Webb

1. Air Force One Where: Joint Base Andrews When: 12:10pm EST As the presidential plane taxis to a halt next January, will it be the old familiar blue-and-white Boeing 747-200B or Trump’s personal Boeing 757-200?

188 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

SHOES By Cheaney, £320. cheaney.co.uk


DONALD TRUMP

SUNGLASSES CAP

By Ray-Ban, from £99. At Sunglasses Hut. sunglasshut.com

By Lock & Co, £99. lockhat ters.co.uk

JUMPER AND SHIRT

2

Jumper by Hackett, £270. hackett.com. Shirt by River Island, £25. riverisland.com

JACKET

By Hackett, £400. hackett.com

FISHING ROD By Alutencos, £579.99. At Rok Max. rokmax.com

Camp David

Photograph Light Project Photography

Where: Catoctin Mountain Park, Thurmont, Maryland When: March 2017

The presidential retreat has been used by every White House incumbent since Franklin D Roosevelt had it rebuilt for the purpose in 1942 and named it Shangri-La. It was renamed by Eisenhower in honour of his father and grandson – both named David. The compound in the Appalachians is as much a venue for top level meetings as it is a chance for the First Family to escape the Beltway – Obama even hosted the 38th G8 summit there in 2012. Nevertheless, the dress code is determinedly casual to suit the log-cabin atmosphere.

BINOCULARS By Swarovski Optik, £1,640. uk.swarovskioptik.com

TROUSERS By River Island, £25. riverisland.com

HIP FLASK By Dunhill, £150. dunhill.com

TRAINERS By New Balance, £55. At Schuh. schuh.co.uk

FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 189


3. Inauguration Where: West Lawn, Capitol Building When: 12pm EST, 20 January 2017 Washington DC gets mighty cold in January, so the formal overcoat is the essential dress code. The inauguration has taken place on the steps to the West Lawn of the Capitol since Ronald Reagan was sworn in in 1981 – urban legend has it he chose this side of the building because it faced his home in California. When Obama was sworn in back in 2008 a record 1.8 million people descended on Washington DC. Organisers this year are expecting half that number. But beware, Trump’s own International Hotel, a mere four blocks from the White House, is fully booked.

PIN BADGE By Paul Smith, £40. paulsmith.co.uk

SHIRT AND TIE Shirt, £109. Tie, £59. Both by Hugo Boss. hugoboss.com

TIE CLIP By Hugo Boss, £185. hugboss.com

C O AT By Hugo Boss, £380. hugoboss.com

SUIT Jacket, £400. Trousers, £150. Both by Hugo Boss. hugoboss.com

PHONE Pixel by Google, £599. store.google.com

WAT C H By Rolex, £8,900. rolex.com

SHOES By Hugo Boss, £300. hugoboss.com

190 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017

CUFFLINKS By Deakin & Francis, £260. deakinandfrancis.com


DONALD TRUMP

SUNGLASSES By Brioni, £475. At mrporter.com

4

CARD HOLDER By Thom Browne, £230. At mrporter.com

WAT C H By Boss, £375. At Watch Shop. watchshop.com

State visit

Where: The Residence at Cape Idokopas (aka Putin’s Palace) When: Russia Day, 12 June 2017

This vast complex overlooking the Black Sea in Krasnodar Krai was allegedly built for President Putin, complete with parks, fountains, pools and helipads. This is the perfect place for a bit of power bonding between these two strongmen. Trump can show the closeness of his relationship with the man who once described him as “colourful” by kicking back and dressing down. He would also, of course, want to present the Russian president with a bottle of Hollywood’s finest hooch.

HUNTING KNIFE By Victorinox, £260. victorinox.com

T R A C K S U I T A N D T- S H I R T Hoodie, £580. Trousers, £520. Both by Philipp Plein. At Harrods. harrods.com. T-shirt by River Island, £5. riverisland.com

B A C K PA C K By MCM, £495. mcmworldwide.com

Photograph Light Project Photography

WHISKEY By The Hilhaven Lodge, £32 for 750ml. At Mission. missionliquor.com

TRAINERS By New Balance, £65. At Schuh. schuh.co.uk

FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 191


Why aren’t you following...

Marloes Horst

Once an awkward misfit in monochrome, the Dutch-born beauty is now busy spellbinding social media with her true colours @marloeshorst 325k followers

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

David Roemer

STYLING

Lisa Oxenham


FASHION ow come the origin story of pretty much every single female model vying to appear on the Forbes highest earning list seems to start with the ugly duckling routine? Is it something to do with their superhuman-sized limbs? Or their Slender Man silhouettes? For blondehaired Marloes Horst – born in the Netherlands, residing in New York – it is no different, although perhaps in her case the admission about her gangly past is less humblebragging and more a case of some honest oversharing. “I had a thing about purple,” she admits when discussing some of the earliest aesthetic choices she made as a teenager. “Purple hair, purple clothes, purple jacket, purple trousers...” Essentially a Scandi version of Where’s Wally? just a touch more goth. Come 2017 and Horst, 27, couldn’t look less lavender. Hair so golden it would distract even Jason from his quest with the Argonauts, blue eyes that seem as backlit as a fully juiced iPhone 7 and long, honey-dipped limbs that will have you flicking through your feed until your index finger aches from RSI. Never mind purple, this woman will send you puce. Jonathan Heaf

Photographs Trunk Archive

H  

Insta karma: Marloes Horst’s feed commands the attentions of 325,000 followers

FEBRUARY 2017 GQ.CO.UK 193


ANDREW WEITZ WILL DRESS YOU TO SUCCESS Once at the top table of Hollywood deal-making, this former West Coast super agent knows all about how to suit up for battle in the boardroom. And today his talent for wardrobe whispering has him in high demand among the world’s C-suite aesthetes STORY BY

Vincent Boucher

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Daniel Sahlberg

O

ne morning last October, executive style consultant Andrew Weitz was pacing back and forth just off the set of The Today Show at the New York offices of NBC in the Rockefeller Center. Tall, slim and fashionably bespectacled, Weitz wore a grey-and-black check Ermenegildo Zegna sports jacket, faintly striped white shirt, dark trousers and Tod’s loafers. Weitz was doing his first men’s makeover on a network television show and it was a milestone for his company, The Weitz Effect. His subject, a production planner named Taylor Thomas from Carlsbad, California, was similarly attired, a mirror image in his check jacket, albeit a more accessible version from the online retailer Suitsupply. “I didn’t recognise you,” the sound guy had said to him. It

Blazer squad: Andrew Weitz studies the fit of a potential purchase by one of his clients

was a remarkable difference, as the lead-in to the segment revealed, with a “before” shot of Thomas’ wardrobe back home, full of shortsleeved “bro” shirts and shapeless jeans.

Weitz spends a lot of time in other men’s wardrobes, but most of them are in Los Angeles, where he lives, and they belong to an elite circle of top entertainment industry machers. He’s a seasoned Hollywood insider himself, having made the leap two-and-a-half years ago from being a successful talent agent for eleven years at powerhouse William Morris Endeavor (WME) to hanging up his own shingle as a wardrobe planner. Now he’s advising the very men he used to do deals with, a clientele so select that most of his “club” is confidential, though it includes studio heads, tech CEOs, agency executives and producers and directors. Even as an agent, Weitz had a certain style. His client list included actor Rob Lowe and a “Brit pack” including Ricky Gervais, James Corden and Stephen Merchant, who says, laughing, “I would joke with him that I felt he was spending more time on his shoes than on my career.” Weitz often got requests for


ANDREW WEITZ

Photograph Instagram/@theweitzeffect

Andrew wears suit, £1,890. Shirt, £330. Both by Gucci. gucci.com. Shoes by Ralph Lauren, £435. ralphlauren.co.uk. Sunglasses by Thom Browne, £530. thombrowne.com

‘My mission is to show successful men that their style affects the bottom line’


Black and Weitz (from top): Christian Cooke, Andrew Weitz, Ricky Gervais and Richard Weitz at the Britannia Awards, 2016; Weitz at Ralph Lauren, 2016; styling client Rob Lowe, 2015; Weitz celebrates Idris Elba’s partnership with Superdry, 2015; at London Collections Men with Sagaboi

creative director Geoff K Cooper, 2016 Right: Jacket by Brioni, £4,440. brioni.com. Suit, £1,890. Shirt, £330. Both by Gucci. gucci. com. Shoes by Ralph Lauren, £435. ralphlauren.co.uk. Sunglasses by Thom Browne, £530. thombrowne.com


ANDREW WEITZ wardrobe advice from co-workers, but thought he would never walk away from the agency world. On nights and weekends he did some informal consulting but the turning point came when a colleague whose life was careening out of control reached out to Weitz. “To watch somebody who was not succeeding in his personal life, in his business life, and after working with me – and it’s not an overnight process – seeing the shift and the change was just really rewarding,” he says. “I wanted to help people really achieve greatness and I thought it would start with the way I care about style and fashion. I wanted to share my knowledge of why it’s important.”

W

ith a client list that now numbers more than 80, Weitz typically juggles eight to ten in any given month. He doesn’t advertise and mainly builds on referrals from his other customers, or he is sought out because someone has noticed one of his clients displaying a noticeable uptick in style. His website ( theweitzeffect.com) features pictures of Weitz looking natty in everything from an “upper-casual” sports jacket to black-tie. His own style is his best advertisement. “He’s this incredibly fit, masculine guy from LA and he makes it kind of cool and acceptable for the average successful man to go, ‘Wow style is a good thing,’” says the American-born Jason Basmajian, chief creative officer of Cerrutti 1181, who met Weitz in London when Basmajian was head of design at Gieves & Hawkes. “It’s all about demystifying it and making it accessible and not intimidating. With these guys, it’s not about whether they can afford it. It’s more about whether they care enough about it.” To get them to care about it, Weitz offers a choice of three programmes, following an initial consultation at the client’s home to assess his wardrobe goals. The premiere service, also dubbed “The Weitz Effect”, is an ongoing programme, on which about ten executives are currently enrolled, with Weitz on permanent retainer. For these clients, he replenishes their wardrobe with new items each season, selected and tailored during an in-home fitting. It also includes priority access to Weitz to handle last-minute wardrobe needs that come up for occasions between the seasonal shopping buys. Basically, he says, “I’m

Lastly, for the fellow who just wants to dip his toe in the stylish water, Weitz will also arrange for a one-off meet-up in a shop to put together a single complete outfit and give someone an idea of the process before going all-in. “Of course, almost everyone comes back because of the compliments they get, and the way they look and feel,” he says. “They say, ‘I want to invest more.’” With just one primary assistant and another part-timer, Weitz knows that scaling up his business means moving Material gains: Andrew beyond the limited number of execWeitz with the tailors of utives he can personally handle. Isaia Beverly Hills, 2015 He envisions enlarging his staff to include junior style experts, but right now adding corporate clients is the next step and he’s inked a deal with his former agency WME to provide seminars for its executives in New York and LA. And it also means positioning himself as a style expert with more TV appearances like the one on The Today Show. “I want to go on and say its OK for men to look great and take their style seriously, and tell their wives and girlfriends it’s OK for their husbands and boyfriends to look good.” He’s also a high-profile presence in the fashion world, attending the men’s shows in Milan, Florence and London, where he sits on the menswear committee. “No one from LA had been coming here before,” says longtime fashion editor Elizabeth Saltzman. “He came in without a team and spent his own money and invested in himself. And everyone just took to him.” Weitz also has cobranded collaborations with fashion companies he’s discovered along the way, with a series for The London in Beverly Hills and has another office at Sock Company and a pair of eyeglass frames his home in West Hollywood with his wife, for Venice Beach-based David Kind. And, of Stacy, a vice-president at Sony Television.) course, it’s all chronicled on his social media, “The Gentlemen’s Season” consists of two with 52,000 followers on Instagram alone. Weitz-directed shopping excursions over the “My mission is helping guys and showing course of a month, with follow-up fittings them that personal style, a personal brand, that either focus on one aspect of a client’s really affects the bottom line. The way you wardrobe, be it business attire or casualwear, look is a visual business card,” Weitz says. “It or are event-directed, such as a round of doesn’t matter how great you are at what you award-season parties or a summer vacation do. If you don’t present yourself in the right abroad. For an extra fee, an in-home option light, people won’t see you.” is also offered. The final programme, which Weitz informally refers to as “the extra pop” is for existing clients or men who already For these related stories, MORE have their style act together. It’s a half-day FROM GQ visit GQ.co.uk/magazine refresher focusing on one event or injecting some seasonal sizzle with a few new items Stella Wears The Trousers (Alex Israel, December 2016) and accessories. Weitz doesn’t disclose the See It, Click It, Wear It (Robert Johnston, October 2016) fees for his services publicly but says they’re Inside The House That Seoul Built (Dylan Jones, July 2016) all project-based. always thinking about them when I’m out and about. If I see something I love, I’ll get it for them whether they take it or not. Though 90 per cent of the time they do.” He also prepares a wardrobe book for each season, both bound and digital, showing the way he puts outfits together for his clients’ easy reference. His other two programmes take place instore. (“My office is Rodeo Drive,” he says, although he also maintains a work address

Photographs Instagram/@theweitzeffect

Weitz dresses men he used to do deals with – a select clientele that’s mostly confidential


The

LOST LAND of the

HEADHUNTERS

In the hills of Nagaland, India, an ancient culture is on the brink of extinction. DAVID BAILEY travelled to the remote home of the Naga to photograph their dying way of life as jungles, shamans and epic poetry give way to deforestation, evangelical Christianity and Korean pop music – all in the name of globalisation STORY BY

William Dalrymple

Two worlds collide: David Bailey with Konyak village elder Kaitha, Longwa village, Nagaland, October 2012; (opposite) a wood carving in Chui village in Mon district, Nagaland


DAVID BAILEY


n a minute I want to gather in the fellowship of Lord Jesus, sing halleluiah and pray together,” said the chief. “But first let me tell you how I hunted my first human head.” Chief Chen-O Khuzuthrupa and I were sitting in a dark, smoky, bamboo-lattice longhouse, high in the Mon hills of Nagaland, in the remote borderlands between India and Burma. The old chief was lit by the chiaroscuro of a single beam of light from one small smoke hole in the roof. The single ray of sunlight revealed a frail, soft-spoken and gently mannered old man, with creased, leathery-skin and a deeply furrowed forehead. He sat stiffly on his throne by the firepit, formally dressed to receive us in a mink jacket with gleaming brass buttons and a matching mink hat. Around his neck he had hung a necklace of boar tusks terminating in four brass skulls. “I took eight heads in all,” he continued. “But the first was the one I’ll never forget. I was only 28 and when I came safely back, holding it in my hands, I can tell you I had the pick of all the prettiest girls in our tribe.” His face broke into a broad smile. The walls of the longhouse were hung with rice baskets, elephant hide shields, ivory tusks, spears, tridents and gleaming ceremonial nipplegongs of beaten brass. Outside, through the gate, you could see the exterior was decorated with the vast horns of the mithun – or wild oxen – that the Konyak tribe had once hunted with almost as much enthusiasm as they had their neighbouring tribesmen. Until recently, the decapitated heads of those neighbours had been on display next door, but the skull house had now been locked up at the request of the missionaries. Konyak longhouses are rarities these days. Most have been swept away in one of the most dramatic social transformations to have taken place in any tribal society. When chief Chen-O was born, 98 years ago, in 1918, Nagaland was a heavily forested and almost totally illiterate society: 95 per cent animist, polygamous and remarkable for the fierceness of its tribes and their penchant for headhunting. This was a practice that lay at the very heart of Naga society. Without taking a head, no young man could graduate to adulthood and be eligible to marry. Institutionalised intertribal violence was therefore endemic. “A Naga village could not remain at peace,” wrote one anthropologist, “as long as there prevailed the belief that the capture of a human head was essential for maintaining the fertility of the crops and the wellbeing of the community.” Today, a century later, headhunting is almost unknown – the last major outbreak was in 1990 following a land dispute between two tribes,

although there was a final shudder in 2006 when a last few small skull collections were amassed following an interclan squabble. Meanwhile the forests have almost been cleared and Nagaland is now remarkable for having one of the largest and most pious Evangelical Christian populations in south Asia. Longhouses, skull houses and morungs, the wooden village barracks where Naga boys were trained to hunt, have all been torn down, and Baptist chapels erected in their place. Where once villages competed over the number of skulls they had collected, today they compete on the size of their churches. Most agree that this represents progress. “Change is probably for the better,” said the chief. “When you look back, you feel nostalgia and ache for those things which are gone. We had very solid customs and traditions. Our population was close-knit – there was always someone to help you, and no one ever starved to death. Now people are like birds. They fly from one place to another.

Generation gap (clockwise from top left): Fashion designer Thesasilie Sekhose and model Peteneinuo Sophie; students from Baptist High School; the Angh of Longwa smoking a pipe inside his home, October 2012; (opposite) a headhunting warrior from the Nagaland State Museum


DAVID BAILEY


But I don’t know. Probably those old customs just don’t meet the requirements of today. I feel optimistic that most of these changes are ultimately for the good. “I am just sad that when the missionaries came, anything that was non-Western was called non-Christian and savage.” Chief Chen-O spat on the ground, with an air of obvious disgust. “The old culture is dying now. So much more was lost than was necessary. They told us to throw out everything that was integral to our culture: our art and our tattooing, our cowrie shells and our gongs. They told us to bury our log-drums and burn the mithun horn trophies.” The chief spoke slowly and thoughtfully. “Recently I’ve begun to collect these things again. I want the coming generations to know about the past, but so much that is lost can never be brought back. Our literature has vanished. Whole epic poems have disappeared. It was all oral and no one bothered to record it. The men in their long huts, grandmothers teaching granddaughters – that was how stories passed on. But we have become so multilingual that we can barely speak our own language. “And our relationship with nature has gone. We used to respect natural things – we would talk to the trees and ask their permission before felling them. Now we just watch as they cut down whole forests. We used to be alert to every omen, and interpret every omen-bird. Now nobody cares. Even the forest ghosts, the spirits of the streams and paths and stones, good and bad. We believed in them, and they felt so alive. They no longer seem to be there.” His face fell for a minute, and he looked towards the door. “I never told you the story of my first head. Would you like to hear it?” “Very much,” I responded. “Like everyone, I had to pass that bridge,” he said. “For us it was the road to manhood. It was a test of bravery and virility. Only then could you choose a girl and get your face tattooed.” The chief stroked the blue lines of his facial tattoos proudly. “It was an act of revenge. My grandfather had just been beheaded. I was in my twenties and had a strong attachment to my grandfather, so I was determined to take a head back to maintain our family honour. “Of course, you cannot go alone on a hunt. You need at least ten for an ambush, and before we went, we were blessed by the shaman. We arrived at the enemy village just after the sun had risen. We waited silently until just before noon, when our prey finally arrived in the fields and began to cultivate their land. I crawled towards one of the men and carefully aimed my muzzle-loader. Then I shot and immediately ran up, decapitated the enemy with my machete, threw the head into the basket I had brought and ran as fast


DAVID BAILEY

Culture clash: The bedroom of a Konyak house in Mon district, Nagaland, photographed in October 2012. It is decorated with newspaper clippings, many covering Bollywood and Western popular culture and news. A bottle of Head & Shoulders shampoo can also be seen on a shelf above the bed


as I could. We were chased as far as the village boundary by the enemy, shooting after us with bows, but they didn’t dare follow us any further. When we got back, I held the head up by the hair and circled the village, from one end to the other. People crowded around cheering and brought rice beer to drink. “Then I had to feed the head. You have to give him some liver and ask the spirit to cooperate. You speak respectfully, saying: ‘Your mother and father will be very sad thinking of you today. But you have lost your body to me.’ After that, the spirit has to obey. It becomes your slave. After the purification ceremonies, the skull was cooked and the flesh stripped away, and it was hung first outside my house, and then in a tree. “That evening there were many festivities, songs and dances and everyone drank. A pig and chicken were slaughtered and grilled, and some was given to the tattoo artists who would give

me my face tattoo. Later, after I had taken seven more heads, I got a back tattoo – for us, it is like a gold medal. “Everyone wanted to hear every detail of the story. All the girls gathered around the fire that night to listen. Our tradition is that to entice a girl, we use a betel leaf: we offer it to the girl we like the most. I was able to choose the girl I had always wanted. That night she came to me.” “Did you marry her?” I asked. “Of course I married my love,” replied the chief. “I said: ‘My heart can never forget you. Let us remain together for life.’” “And did you remain together?” “We remained together until she lost her head,” he said, “about a year later. I cried and cried.” The chief faltered. “I can’t forget her,” he said. “Even now. I’ve had three other wives since then, but I wish my first

Close-up (clockwise from top left): A Konyak village elder, Mon district; human skulls from the headhunting days, Sheanghah Chingnyu, Mon district; Kaitha in Longwa village; Nanjai in Longwa village, all photographed in October 2012


DAVID BAILEY

Family ties (top): The Tetseo Sisters – photographed in Kohima – are a traditional vocal folk music act from Nagaland; (above) two fathers with their hands full in the Bara Basti village in Kohima, Nagaland, both October 2012


Naga ink: Tattoos on the knees of a village elder in Mon district. Tattooing was a significant part of culture as a way for men and women to mark milestones in their lives. It was banned in the Sixties following the spread of Christianity throughout Nagaland


DAVID BAILEY

Nagaland painting 03. ‘As soon as I get back from a trip I do a few paintings, ideas from the journey,’ says David Bailey. ‘It is just another view of what I saw, or what I thought I did’


love was still in my longhouse. I still hope to meet her in another life – halleluiah. Amen, amen, amen.” o one really knows where the Nagas are from. Their languages are all of the TibetoBurman family, and the old Naga men quizzed by the first anthropologists in the early 20th century all said the tribes had migrated to their hills from the northeast – which would mean Tibet, eastern China or even Mongolia. Yet their customs and myths – including headhunting – have a remarkably close kinship with those of the Iban of Sarawak, and the Bugis and Sea Dayaks of Indonesia. The central place that cowrie shells play in their rituals seems to indicate some sort of distant maritime origin. Intertribal war turned the Nagas in on themselves. “We were like frogs in a well,” was how the chief put it. “We barely knew there were other frogs in other wells, except for our neighbours, and they were all our enemies.” Among the Konyak tribe alone there were 28 distinct dialects, many of which were not mutually comprehensible. “To the Naga,” wrote the anthropologist Christoph von Fürer-Haimendorf, “mankind appears as sharply divided between the small circle of his co-villagers and clansmen, from whom he expects assistance and to whom he is bound by a number of obligations, and the entire outer world consisting of the people of his own tribe living in other villages as well as the people of neighbouring tribes, who are his potential enemies and potential victims of headhunting.” Isolated not just from others, but even their own people, the Nagas were among the last of the peoples of India to come to the attention of Europeans. The Mughal Empire had never conquered further northeast than Assam, and the Nagas only appear in Mughal records when they launched occasional headhunting raids on the furthest extremities of Mughal Assam. Like the Mughals before them, the officers of the East India Company made little attempt to explore the rugged hills beyond the new tea estates of Assam, and it was only during the high Victorian Raj in the 1870s that British officials began to become aware of the violent tribal world on the edge of their maps. Before long, missionaries in Assam were writing back to England about the savage headhunters of the hills whose “wicked spears were ornamented with hair from the heads of old men and old women murdered expressly for this purpose”. In 1869, the Reverend Edward P Scott headed up into the Ao country, armed with his bible and his faith. According to an early mission report, “as he approached the first Naga village, he was met by 12 naked warriors with spears poised to strike him. Quickly

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he began to play his violin, and to sing, ‘Am I A Soldier Of The Cross?’ Entranced, the men dropped their spears and shouted for more.” By the 1870s, missionaries – some Church of England, others American Baptists – had begun to form outposts in the Naga Hills, opening schools, beginning to translate their texts into the many different Naga languages and reporting that the Nagas were beginning to abandon “the miserable worship patterns handed down to them by their ancestors”. By the First World War, missionaries had opened some 200 schools, educating over 5,000 pupils, and around two per cent of the population had converted to Christianity. Missionary letters home were beginning to sound optimistic. Mary Clark, a Baptist from Philadelphia, wrote to her backers that “the Nagas, once civilised and Christianised, will make a worthy people”. It was the Second World War that changed everything. In 1944, three Japanese divisions pushed up through Burma and entered India through the Naga Hills. Names of obscure missionary outposts such as Kohima and Imphal suddenly became the focus of world attention, as well as turning points in military history alongside Stalingrad and El Alamein. In the

‘When the missionaries came, anything that was non-Western was called non-Christian and savage’ wake of the troops came roads and airstrips and more missionaries. The proportion of Christians among the Naga population rose from 17.9 per cent on the eve of the Second World War to 88.6 per cent by 1971. In 30 years the Nagas underwent hyperdevelopment of a sort that had taken 1,000 years in Europe. Paraffin lamps replaced torches made of rushes; matches replaced flints; guns replaced spears and swords; doctors prescribing penicillin replaced shamans polishing skulls. In the Sixties and Seventies, tribal uprisings were brutally put down by the army of independent India that knew it needed clear and easily defended boundaries. By the turn of the millennium, just 0.3 per cent of Nagas still practised traditional religion and literacy was well above the Indian national average. The insurgents had been

David Bailey's Naga Hills Why the Naga Hills first, where is this land of mystery? Mostly in my imagination. A place that no one I knew had been to. It had no pyramids on the Nile, no hidden city in the Himalayas like Shangri-La. It’s likely I read about it in the writings of Rudyard Kipling. I always love stories of the Raj. Kipling started to become politically incorrect about this time. Just because of the embarrassment and shit some people had about the Empire, why should this have an effect on Kipling’s work? He was a great writer and observer of his time. His poem “If” is one of the most famous in the English language. All thinking should take into consideration time and place before justifying the past. Anyway, political correctness lost out in the end and Kipling is in fashion again. On my numerous visits to India,

I learnt more about Nagaland, which is its real name. I once had breakfast with the chief minister of Nagaland. His opening gambit was that the insurgents were going to like me because if they came to power they would change it to the Naga Hills. I told him they were right – Nagaland sounded like Legoland to me. He seemed open to the idea. My next question was, “How do you even know I’m going to the insurgents’ camp?” He replied, “We know all about you Mr Bailey. There are no secrets any more.” The chief minister had gone to St Joseph’s College in Darjeeling and spoke much better English than I do. The best word to describe his attitude is “charming”. I always make an open plan when I want to tell my story. It was going to be about the last of the headhunters, but I soon realised the story was a

clash of two cultures in the same country, two ways of being, 1,000 years apart. The headhunter, and what I christened the Korean Boys (South). The way they dress is very smart, with suits that have a Paul Smith feel – their choice of films and music always seems to be South Korean. They are on the internet when there is electricity, which seems to be very random, hence the Korean Boys. Now the clash of cultures, the headhunters who are mostly called kings. They don’t seem to rule anybody or have any particular power. They live in very large houses. Getting from one headhunter to the next was quite a journey: they all seemed to live 200 to 500 kilometres apart. Sometimes the only way was to walk beside the four-wheel drives. At one point we were lost in the hills for about five hours, only meeting two guys with flintlock rifles. Our


DAVID BAILEY driven over the Burmese border and the disaffected younger generation of Nagas showed resistance by cutting their hair like Korean film stars and listening to American thrash metal. ne woman has done perhaps more than anyone else to help preserve Naga culture from total extinction. Phejin Konyak is the spirited daughter of a tea planter from close to the Burmese border. She lives alone in a large estate house on the slopes of a remote mountain. Nearly 40, with the energy of a woman half her age, she is a one-woman Naga cultural conservation agency. “Everything is dying out so fast,” she told me as we sat on a bench outside her home one evening, looking at the sun sinking behind the jagged Mon hills. “The last shaman in my area passed away in 2003, taking all her knowledge with her. After her, no one could communicate with the dead.” We had driven to see Phejin from Kohima, the Naga capital, towards the end of my journey. The drive took a whole day, and in the last section we bumped up into the Mon hills, corkscrewing uphill on potholed roads made

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driver thought they could be part of what they call a “bandit” group. Anyway, they were not at all agitated; I think they were more shocked at finding us at 2am, lost in the hills. They pointed us in the direction of a guard post where the guards seemed to be having a party. It turned out to be good fun. I never thought I’d be dancing with soldiers in the middle of Nagaland. We photographed our first headhunter two days later – the entrance was one of the biggest vernacular buildings I’ve ever been in. There are no smoke holes in their roofs. It was like walking into London smog in the Fifties. I was greeted by five men sitting around an open fire in the middle of the room smoking opium from beautifully carved bone pipes. From now on, the journey is harder. But this is all too many words from me when we have William Dalrymple’s writing. What could be better?

near impassable by lumbering logging lorries. But it was a spectacular drive, alternating between virgin forests and the slash-andburn clearings which had emerged around the logging stations. Here, little hamlets of bamboo huts had sprung up on stilts, many of them with breathtaking views dropping down to the plains far below. Around each hut was a small garden, filled with strips of corn, taro, pumpkins and chillies, while chickens, jungle fowl and a few pygmy goats picked around. But it wasn’t just the landscape; the people also got wilder as we entered Konyak territory. The Konyaks were the last of the Naga tribes to be converted and the ones who today retain the most of their old tribal identity. By the time we had risen up the foothills into the heights of the easternmost ranges of the Himalayas, the old men all wore elaborate body tattoos, while many inserted antlers and bore tusks into their ears and noses. The young men carried shotguns on their backs as they drove around on Enfield Bullets. It felt wild, a real borderland, and I was glad that we would have Phejin to look after us, and grateful that she took in travellers as a way to pay for her research. “It’s wonderful,” said Phejin that evening. “People are always amazed when they come here for the first time. But it’s all being lost in front of us. Literally, it’s being swept from under our feet. I try to warn the Naga people that we’ll have nothing to pass on if we don’t begin trying to preserve something of our culture. It is an oral tradition – nothing is written down. Even some of the languages and dialects are dying. If no one bothers to learn the old songs what are we going to sing to our grandchildren – Britney Spears? Kanye West?” I refilled her whisky glass and she took a sip. “Very few drink in these hills any more. Because of the American Baptist missionaries they think anyone who drinks is going to hell.” I laughed, but Phejin was in earnest. “One day we will be the grandparents, and it will be our responsibility to pass on our traditions to our grandchildren. But already those a generation older than me know almost nothing of our culture. If we don’t do something about it now it’s going to go forever. We will be lost in the global mulch and have no identity, no idea of who we are or where we are from.” Over the days I stayed with her, Phejin told me about her various different projects. First up was a plan to photograph the tattoos of the last of the old headhunters before they died. “As a girl I remember leaning against my grandfather’s chest,” she said. “We would be sitting by the fire in the longhouse as he smoked his opium pipe. All his friends had tattooed chests, and every tattoo had special meaning and marked the different stages of life. But they were the last generation that had them. In 1960, the Konyak Students’ Union

banned tattooing after the tribe converted to Christianity, and they began to fine any clan member that continued to tattoo. My grandfather had his done in 1963 and his clan got fined two mithun [oxen] because of it. “It wasn’t just the men; the women were tattooed too, to mark the different stages of their life. At seven, they would have tattoos on their calves. At puberty, they would have others drawn on their forearms and chest and navel. When they became engaged, they would have tattoos on their knees. This whole world disappeared in the Sixties. Some hardcore Baptist missionaries forced one tattoo artist to burn all her tattooing equipment, telling her she was doing the work of the devil.” “So is it too late to save anything?” I asked. “Not at all,” she replied, smiling broadly. “There is so much we can still do. I told the teachers in the secondary school in Mon: every student these days has a cellphone. Get them to interview their grandparents and record their songs. Every student can help document this. But of course nothing had happened. I’ll have to make the recordings myself.” She threw back her head and laughed. “Sometimes I think no one is interested in the old people except me – and the old are longing to talk. But all these useless students think about is the latest fashions or Korean movies. They should be organising pottery workshops. Or collecting the old sayings, or the traditional Konyak wood carving and beadwork.” She knocked back another slug of whisky. “Actually, the teachers are often as bad as the students,” she said. “Naga Christians can be fanatical – they believe the only way is Jesus.” I asked if she blamed the missionaries for deliberately destroying her culture. She hesitated for a moment before answering. “In truth, I have such mixed feelings. On one hand, no; some of them have done amazing work. A century ago no Naga could read. We are now one of the most literate states in India. I myself am a product of a convent school in Dimapur. I wouldn’t be who I am without a missionary education. And we couldn’t have remained isolated for ever – every tribal society has to face this dilemma sooner or later. It had to happen, just as it’s happening all over the world.” Phejin looked out over the darkening tea terraces falling in shadowy ripples below her. “But I just wish that some of the Baptist missionaries had thought a little more deeply about the effects of their actions. They taught that the new religion was a rebirth, and nothing of the old ways should remain with a person who is born again. With these, they discarded so much of our culture.” She paused. “But at least I know now what I have to do. It’s not too late. And the culture of my people is far too valuable to let go of.”


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HAUTE VISIBILITY It’s out with the old, in with the bold as GQ celebrates form and function with statement jackets PHOTOGRAPHS BY

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Speak volumes during the quiet times with soft layers, gentle knits and low-key  luxuries that won’t compromise your cool PHOTOGRAPHS BY

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222 GQ.CO.UK FEBRUARY 2017


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From top: Scarf by Loewe, £175. loewe.com. Trousers by Thom Browne, £730. At Harrods. harrods.com. Wash bag by Polo Ralph Lauren, £109. At mrporter. com. Jacket by Moncler, from £800. moncler.com. Gloves by DSquared2, £265. dsquared2. com. Trainers by Hugo Boss, £230. hugoboss.com Still life stylist Nu Valado Styling assistant Chiara Pugilese Photograph assistants Oksana Dorohov, Tom Teasdale Production Rebecca Hardaker Retouching Jon Gibson Skinner


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$ QHZ SURSHUW\ DQG KRWHO SURMHFW LV VHW WR UHGHILQH OX[XU\ RQ WKH LVODQG VD\V -HVVLH +HZLWVRQ Grenada is known for being one of the most spectacularly beautiful islands in the Caribbean. What it is not yet known for is high-quality contemporary villas and one of the best hotels in the region. That, however, is about to change, thanks to the Silversands project. Found directly on Grand Anse beach, on the south-west tip of the island, this hotel and property development will redefine luxury on Grenada, combining flawless service with modern architecture on a beach of bone-white sand and blue-green sea. The aim, according to Naguib Sawiris, the Egyptian businessman backing the project, is â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;to do something very modern aimed at clients who go to St Barts or Barbados. We want to show these clients that coming to this natureblessed island is worthwhile.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Building work is due to finish at the end of this year. When complete, there will be nine palatial villas set around a six-star, 44-suite hotel with spa and restaurant. There will be 24-hour service for both villa owners and hotel guests, so if a homeowner desires a lobster salad at 3am, they only have to pick up the phone. For guests who never want to check out, the

villas are currently for sale. The design of these substantial three- and four-bedroom houses â&#x20AC;&#x201C; five dotted along the beach and four nestling in the hillside overlooking it â&#x20AC;&#x201C; focuses on outdoor living, unrivalled luxury and high-quality design. Each villa comes with its own pool, and some of the bedrooms also have outdoor showers and plunge pools. There is a seamless flow between exterior and interior thanks to spacious terraces with outdoor dining areas. One of the villas will be retained by Mr Sawiris himself, demonstrating both his attachment to the project and a commitment to ensuring standards are kept high after the project is complete. The 100-metre hotel pool is thought to be the longest in the Caribbean and is surrounded by daybeds. The hotel restaurant will serve fish hand-caught from the sea that forms the spectacular view in front of it. Grenada airport is a 10-minute drive away â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you can fly there directly from London in just over eight hours â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the sailing and diving is among the best in the Caribbean, with manta rays circling the waters. Sailors flock here, attracted by the Camper & Nicholsons Port Louis Marina, which offers a full-service

marina in a beautiful lagoon just outside the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital, St Georgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;You can get Grenadian citizenship if you purchase at Silversands, which makes it attractive to people who are tax planning and want the security of a second passport,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; says James Burdess, director of the Savills Caribbean desk. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Another attraction is that you can really get away from everyone and everything in Grenada. You can swim in waterfalls, pick wild fruit, go for a picnic and not see anyone else, which you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do in many places in the Caribbean.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; For further information, please contact James Burdess, director of the Caribbean desk at Savills, on 020 7205 2432 | www.savills.com

Courtesy of Camper & Nicholsons Port Louis Marina


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#OTL JONATHAN HEAF IS...

From upper-crust upstart to leading lad, the comic princeling chews over his career at Dock Kitchen

“I was weirdly ashamed of where I was from,” he chuckles. “Specifically, Barnes, west London. I tried to hide my comfortable, privileged upbringing. It just didn’t seem cool to have been born in The Portland hospital and have Nigel Havers as a godfather.” I take his point. Whitehall’s father is, in fact, a well-known talent agent and Whitehall Jr has had to suffer calls of nepotism ever since the ignition of his career. “I realised it was actually what set me apart. Anything that gives you an edge is a plus – even being an elitist wanker – you want to hang on to it.” He now appears with his father, Michael, on the much praised Backchat, the pair’s chat show-cum-counselling session on BBC Two. The food at Dock Kitchen, we’re informed by our waiter, is inspired and influenced by wherever the chef has last gone on holiday. Judging by what’s on offer today, the chef spent a week in bed with norovirus watching Top Gear specials followed by a month backpacking around Cambodia. Tentatively we order the chicken livers with molasses and a dish named Chairman Mao’s Pork Belly. “Didn’t Chairman Mao execute thousands of people mercilessly?” contemplates Whitehall, a thin smirk creeping upwards towards the bollock-shaped Tom Dixon light fittings swaying above us. “Perhaps this pork belly will redeem his legacy.” It was pretty good. But not so good that you would forgive mass murder. If comedy is Whitehall’s bread and butter – whether selling out arenas on his forthcoming national tour or on panel shows such as A League Of Their Own with pal James Corden – acting, specifically in movies, is fast becoming a shinier avenue. “I love Disney films. I did a stand-up routine a while back that compared the significance of The Lion King to Shakespeare.” Whitehall is currently shooting Disney’s adaptation of The Nutcracker, while last year he took the voiceover lead in Asterix: Mansions Of The Gods. Whitehall has form, albeit atrocious form, when it comes to big budget Hollywood movies. In 2012 he won a part in Frozen; he had two lines as Gothi the troll priest. The comic was understandably proud to be involved. He did interviews, boasted like a Lotto winner all over social media. “Then I was dropped. Cut. Entirely.” Ouch. Although sore, Whitehall took notes and kept plugging away. “For this next movie I’m in it a lot. They literally can’t cut me out without scrapping the entire film.” Which, if anything, goes to show the merits of a pushy public school system: a keenness to put one’s hand up despite past humiliations. “Bravo, Jack. Barba tenus sapientes,” as his fellow alumni will no doubt be bellowing from the nosebleed seats. Portobello Docks, 342-344 Ladbroke Grove, London W1. 020 8962 1610, dockkitchen.co.uk

emember the Seinfeld episode “The Bizarro Jerry”? It’s the one (series eight, episode three) in which Jerry, George, Elaine and Kramer go through the looking glass, finding themselves in a surreal alternative reality. Everything is the same yet everything is different – not unlike planet earth after Donald Trump won the presidential race. Anyway, in the episode, character traits are flipped – George’s opposite, for example, is reliable and courteous, the bike hanging up in Jerry’s apartment becomes a unicycle, hello is goodbye, goodbye is hello, up is down and down is up... As comedian Jack Whitehall struts into Dock Kitchen, Ladbroke Grove, wearing a two-tone bomber, white trainers and what can only be described as a peak beard for 2017 – a touch unrulier than a transsexual “sound chef” from Hackney, yet less than would be needed for an unaided Arctic exploration – I can’t help but feel Whitehall is simply a funnier, trendier, more #bants version of every other public school boy who didn’t make it onto Made In Chelsea. A Bizarro “Bloody Good Bloke”, if you will. He’s not, of course. Whitehall is in fact – if you ignore what at times can seem like the deportment of a Loaded revivalist, presumably something he puts on to be more appealing to loud, ‘An edge ruddy-faced, Mini Paceman-driving men in rugby shirts – is a plus a lot smarter than the sum of his mucky gags. I used to be fairly flippant about comedians – not least Whitehall’s brand – even if of nice-but-dim self-deprecation and faux laddism. I remember watching him on Live At The Apollo in 2012, a time when it’s being stand-up comics were behaving like celebrity chefs behaving elitist’ like rock stars. Even back then, in the genre’s halcyon days – a period of time when even Kate Moss considered a night out at The Comedy Store – Whitehall stood out as being set for bigger things than a beer-sodden stage in Hammersmith. Among the stadium-booking headline acts, such as Russell Brand and Michael McIntyre, Whitehall’s youth, flannel shirts and uppermiddle-class admissions about fellow prep school class-mate Robert Pattinson seemed to set him apart from all the mockney-accented, whitecollar comedians. Sitting mulling over the somewhat eccentric menu at lunch he seems to agree. Though that’s not to say the very fact that he was unlike the trad comedy pack didn’t give Whitehall some cause for concern.

R  

VERDICT Bants ++++, Archbishop of Banterbury +++,, Bantasaurus ++++,Bantanamo Bay ++,,,Bant and Dec +++,,Overall ++++,

Illustrations Anton Emdin; Zohar Lazar

...with JACK WHITEHALL


IN PARTNERSHIP WITH RAYMOND WEIL is proud to be supporting Swiss sailing team Realteam as its OfďŹ cial Timing Partner and to introduce a new freelancer able to support the crew in the most extreme sailing conditions. A nice little tip of the hat to Mr Raymond Weil who was a member of the Geneva Yacht Club. Join the discussion #RWRealteam

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