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portland, oregon / november 2012

Eat • Drink • Get Out • Get Together mIXpdX.Com

5 easy appetizers • city’s best roast chickens porters and stouts • wine pairings by place

make pIe lIke a pro / p22

Recipes for your fall table

november 2012

learn the seCrets to a sIlky sauCe / p46


Cozy up to a few new vegetables / p 40

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editor’s note You never forget your first … first date, first kiss, first Thanksgiving turkey. Mine was a 20-pound giant. I had never cooked something so large before, and the stakes were high. But I had an ample collection of cookbooks at my fingertips, and after reading, re-reading, cross-checking and note-taking, I felt pretty confident in my plan of attack. My biggest worry, actually, was whether it would fit in our tiny vintage oven. Luckily, the behemoth’s big, rounded breast cleared the ceiling of the oven with maybe an inch to spare, and the maplebrined bird turned out juicy and crispskinned with a gorgeous mahogany hue. I’ll never forget the feelings of relief, and pride, that washed over me. It was my first turn at bat, and I had knocked it out of the park — thanks to those books and the seasoned professionals who wrote them. No matter how often you cook, there are always a few things you might be too afraid to attempt. Maybe it’s homemade pie. Maybe it’s a creamy hollandaise sauce. Maybe it’s a weird-looking vegetable you’ve never heard of. We all have those bugaboos. But they’ll always be scary, and we’ll always be missing out, if we don’t face them head-on,

with a trusted expert by our sides — even if only in print. That’s what this issue is all about — learning by cooking and expanding our skills. Starting on Page 46 (and in her new book “Modern Sauces”), MIX founding editor Martha Holmberg shows us how versatile, and truly easy, some classic French sauces can be. And, being the all-around amazing cook that she is, she gives each one a lip-smacking twist. On Page 40, local cookbook author Diane Morgan encourages us to give all those odd-looking roots at the farmers market a chance, with four recipes from her new book “Roots.” And because we love handy visual aids, we have a step-by-step pie crust tutorial from

the folks at Pacific Pie Co., and an illustrated guide to making the perfect cup of coffee. Whether you think you can’t (make pie) or can (make coffee), both are bound to teach you something new. This month, the biggest food holiday of the year arrives, and we’re all going to be cooking a lot more than usual. We hope this issue gives you the inspiration to make something you might have been too intimidated to try before, and the confidence to make it part of your repertoire.

Danielle Centoni, editor CorreCtion: Sometimes things get lost

in translation. In last month’s MIX, the tutorial on making cocktails with Becca June of Wafu had some errors. For the correct version, go online to MIXPDX.COM.


Want to be sure you get every issue of MIX? S u b S c r i b e ! 10 issues for $20. Go to MIXpdX.coM or call 503-221-8240.

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november 2012 Whisk it Good: Learn how a simple sauce can transform your cooking / Page 46

PHoToGrAPH bY beTH nAkAmurA




Get out

9 Five quick apps; cheffy sandwiches; three great books; autumnal ice cream; lovely linens

16 top ten: The juiciest roast chickens in town

29 Wine: Intricate pairings for the holiday table

55 daY tRip: Holiday fun in the wine country without the crowds

34 BeeR: Stouts and porters for your glass and your stew pot

58 calendaR: What to do and where to go this month ___

On THe cOver: Still life with roots (aka dinner waiting to happen). PHOTOGrAPH BY WenDI nOrDeck

22 technique: How to make tender, flaky pie crusts 25 Good FoR You: Are chia seeds healthful or just hype? 40 RootinG aRound: Get to know a few new vegetables

38 coFFee: An illustrated guide to brewing the perfect cup

60 i.d. Tracy Oseran --the big heart behind Urban Gleaners

mIX is 10 issues a year! It’s easy to subscribe online — go to and click on “subscribe.” You can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at, so get clicking and start eating.


HOME OF THE BUMPER CROP OF OOOH & AAAH Th ere’s a p l ace not far away that ’s a wo r l d away. W h e re fa l l f i e l d s a re filled with flavor. Fresh huckleberries beckon, earthy mushrooms liven up taste buds, bikes roll through roads winding with color, plump pumpkins yearn to be carved, wineries offer up their finest and dahlias bloom. This is Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory.



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contributors hanna neuschwander’s coffee fixation began when she started working as a barista. Soon she was judging barista competitions and writing about micro-roasters, among other things. Now, she writes a lot about coffee and a little about food, and spent six months traveling for her new book “Left Coast Roast” (Timber Press, $16.95), a guidebook to artisan and influential coffee roasters on the West Coast. For this issue, she uses her expertise to guide readers through the process of brewing the perfect cup of coffee on page 38.

Allison Berg is a Portland native with a passion for design, art and good food. A recent graduate from Portland State’s design program, specializing in illustration and handcrafted design, she is inspired by nature, old films and vintage ephemera. “Having worked on the illustrations for Hanna’s recent book, “Left Coast Roast,” it was great to continue on with this piece for MIX (page 38). I love enjoying a nice cup of coffee while I draw, so I actually learned some extremely useful tips from Hanna’s article.”

Abigail chipley is a Portland-based freelance writer and recipe developer who honed her skills in the kitchens of Martha Stewart, where she helped launch Everyday Food magazine. During her tenure there, she developed more than 400 recipes, many of which were published in two cookbooks: “Everyday Food: Great Food Fast” (2007) and “Everyday Food: Fresh Flavor Fast” (2010). Abigail’s recipes have also appeared in Whole Living, Everyday with Rachael Ray and Real Simple. For this issue, she experimented with chia seeds to delicious results (page 25). “It was so easy to slip them into recipes like pancakes and pound cake.”

raechel sims is a Portland-based freelance writer and editor specializing in food, wine and music writing. An Oregon native, she studied journalism at the University of Oregon before moving to New York City to help launch SPIN Magazine’s online format. She has worked as a bartender and wine steward at several of Portland’s notable restaurants, including Clarklewis and Metrovino. For this issue of MIX, she puts that experience to good use, compiling a list of holiday-appropriate wines paired by taste as well as terroir (page 29). She also uncovers the great wine and good times to be had in the wine country the weekend before Thanksgiving on page 55.

other contrIbutIng WrIters: GrAnt Butler, sArAh curtis-fAwley, JAnet filips, John foyston, MArthA holMBerG, ivy MAnninG , DiAne MorGAn, trAcy sAelinGer, Jen stevenson , kAt vetrAno

other contrIbutIng photographers/Illustrators: DouG BeGhtel, reeD DArMon, JAMie frAncis, ross williAM hAMilton, nAncy hunt, torsten kJellstrAnD, Beth nAkAMurA, MotoyA nAkAMurA, wenDi norDeck, cArol roseGG

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MIXpdX.coM noveMBer 2012

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where to finD the recipes in this issue:

sAuces AnD conDiMents • Brown Butter Hollandaise Sauce, p52 • Chicken or Turkey Gravy, p48 • Ginger Caramel Sauce, p50 • Orange-Rosemary Balsamic Beurre Blanc, p49 sAnDwiches • Ken Gordon’s Turkey French Dip, p10 • Rick Gencarelli’s Turkey Hash Breakfast Sandwich, p10 • Tommy Habetz’s Thanksgiving Sandwich, p10 BreAkfAst • Lemon-Chia Pancakes With Ricotta Cheese, p27 Desserts • Almond-Chia Pound Cake, p27 • Coconut-Chia Pudding, p25 • Pacific Pie Co.’s All-Butter Pastry, p22



Appetizers • Ginger Edamame, p9 • Instant Latkes, p9 • Noma Bites, p9 • Spanish Banderillas, p9 • Sweet Salty Herby Nuts, p9 MAin Dishes • Porter-Braised Short Ribs, p34 siDe Dishes • Celery Root Purée with Anjou Pear, p43 • Parsley Root and Butternut Squash Gratin, p45 • Roasted Parsnips and Carrots With Fresh Dill, p44 • Scorzonera and Wild Mushroom Ragout, p42


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online extrAs At MixpDx.coM  Get Ben Bettinger’s recipes for SherryCreamed Pearl Onions and Cope’s Corn Pudding  Find out how Tommy Habetz makes his Grandma Maye’s Sausage Stuffing  Check out the complete recipes for our super-quick appetizers  Make Pacific Pie Co.’s ChocolateBourbon Hazelnut Pie  Get Martha Holmberg’s recipe for Buttery Apple Bread Pudding  Read our full interview with Tracy Oseran of Urban Gleaners viDeos:  Watch Martha Holmberg walk you through the finer points of sauce making  See how Kate Withiam of Pacific Pie Co. makes her flaky crusts

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MIXpdX.coM november 2012

starters Speedy snacks from the pantry It’s the eleventh hour, the gravy isn’t done, and you’ve got a house full of hungry people. They’ll inevitably gravitate toward the kitchen and get in your way. Instead, lure them elsewhere with these quick appetizers that take minimal time and use ingredients you’re likely to have on hand. The gang will be distracted long enough to allow you some peace and quiet while you tend to the bird and fixings. — Ivy Manning PHOTOGRAPHY BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA


spaNish baNderillas: 1 thick slice Olympic Provisions chorizo + 1 cube Idiazibal or Manchego cheese + 1 cube membrillo + 1 green olive, all skewered on a toothpick.


Noma bites: Rye bread squares + Chop’s liver pate + thinly sliced Unbound pickled beets


GiNGer edamame: Sauté minced fresh ginger in dark sesame oil until crispy. Toss with defrosted edamame in the pod. Finish with a generous sprinkle of flake salt and black sesame seeds.


iNstaNt latkes: Defrosted frozen hash browns mixed with beaten egg, formed into little cakes and fried in olive oil (can be done ahead). Top with sour cream mixed with chopped capers, sliced lox and lemon zest.


salty herby caNdied Nuts: Raw almonds tossed with extra virgin olive oil, finely chopped rosemary, brown sugar and coarse sea salt. Sauté on the stove until nuts smell toasted. Spread on a baking sheet to cool.

 ONLINe eXtra: Don’t want to wing it?

Get complete recipes for these appetizers at mIXpDX.cOm november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


starters, cont.

maKe tHese:

Day-after sandwiches This month, refrigerators across the country will be filled with mounds of leftover turkey, stuffing and cranberry sauce just begging to be tucked between bread. So we asked sandwich-savvy chefs from three Portland restaurants to give us their favorite Thanksgivingleftover creations. — Tracy Saelinger

Ken Gordon

Ken Gordon of Kenny & Zuke’s has lots of opinions on what makes a great Thanksgiving leftover sandwich — after all, he serves a Thanksgiving panini all year at his downtown deli (1038 S.W. Stark St., 503-222-3354, At home, he uses a mix of dark and white turkey seasoned with salt and pepper, butter lethow to: Broil or toast a tuce, crusty ciabatta, lots of roll. As a substitute for homemade mayo and — his the jus, thin down leftover twist — roasted roma tomaturkey gravy with broth. toes. But when you’re done Warm sliced, roasted turwith the turkey-and-mayo key in the gravy, and then combo, try his idea of making place on the roll. Serve a simple Turkey French Dip. with the reserved gravy on the side for dipping.

ben bettinger

Benjamin Bettinger, Imperial’s executive chef and resident sandwich fanatic, grew up in Vermont but his favorite Thanksgiving sandwich has a Pennsylvania Dutch twist. His mom’s family is from the Keystone State and always makes sherry-creamed pearl onions along with Cope’s Corn, a kind of fluffy corn pudding made from John Cope’s Dried Sweet Corn mix, a retro regional product that how to: Pile turkey, few people outside of Amish stuffing, Cope’s Corn country know about. Look for Pudding, sherry-creamed it online, cook it up for the pearl onions, gravy and holiday, and pile it on your cranberry sauce on bread post-Turkey Day sandwich, that’s spread with mayonjust like the chef does. naise. Eat it cold or hot!


rick Gencarelli

It’s hard to open the fridge the morning after Thanksgiving and want anything but leftovers. So do what chef Rick Gencarelli does and eat them for breakfast: He turns leftover turkey into hash for this open-faced egg sandwich. It’s so addictive, he serves a version of it yearround at Lardo, his sandwich shop and beer garden (1212 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., 503-234-7786,

Tommy Habetz

At the end of the day, no two day-afterThanksgiving sandwiches taste the same because they’re all made up of our signature family dishes. For Tommy Habetz of bunk Sandwiches, that clincher ingredient is his Grandma Maye’s sausage stuffing, which is, “of course, the best sausage stuffing in the world,” he says. To replicate his sandwich, served most of the year at Bunk (two locations,, go all the way and make his grandma’sstuffing (get the recipe at

how to: Brown stuffing and bits of roasted turkey in a pan with a little bit of butter (like turkey hash but without the potatoes) and top with a fried egg and provolone. Serve open-faced on toasted Italian bread with cranberry sauce instead of ketchup.

how to: Slice some good rolls and griddle them with a little butter. Spread mayonnaise liberally on each. Lay out about 4 ounces of turkey (brightened by salt and pepper), about 2 ounces of Grandma Maye’s stuffing and a tablespoon or so of cranberry sauce (canned or homemade).

 ONLINe eXtra: Get the recipes for Ben Bettinger’s sherry-creamed pearl Onions and









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starters, cont.

sHOp Here: appetIte Roomy market bags adorned with botanical prints and leather handles. Gorgeous table runners in earthy hues. Dish towels and potholders so pretty you almost can’t bear to use them. Appetite is indeed an apt name for this East Burnside boutique, where the hand-designed, hand-printed and hand-sewn wares inspire a hunger for home textiles you didn’t know you had. Completely handcrafted in Portland by a pair of sisters, the wares can brighten your fall table, and make excellent gifts for the host. — Danielle Centoni 2136 E. Burnside, Portland, 503-233-1223, PHOTOGRAPH, APPETITE


Louis C.K. on Thanksgiving:

I don’t stop eating when I’m full. The meal is not over when I’m full. The meal is over when I hate myself.


eat tHIs saINt cupcaKe’s New meNu Ever the innovators, the crew at Saint Cupcake has given their alder-smoked chocolate chip cookie a sibling — smoky vanilla ice cream flecked with bittersweet chocolate flakes. Part of the bakery’s “Melty Goods” line, the campfire-y ice cream is definitely an acquired taste. But the bakery’s new, autumnal ice cream sandwiches would please anyone. Our hands-down favorite is the Gingersnap Caramel Pecan Cookiewich, combining dark, chewy, ginger-spice cookies with a superlatively creamy and nutty ice cream. But if you’re a big fan of soft, caky pumpkin bread don’t miss the Pumpkin Whoopie Pie With Nutmeg Ice Cream. — Danielle Centoni 1138 S.W. Morrison St., Portland, 503-997-3674, PHOTOGRAPH BY ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON

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MIXpdX.coM november 2012

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starters, cont.

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“edible Selby” by Todd Selby (Abrams, $35) Who is Selby? He’s not the guy on the cover. That’s chef Eric Werner of Hartwood, an open-air restaurant in a Tulum, Mexico, jungle. He’s just one of dozens of food obsessives, from winemakers to rooftop farmers, that photographer Todd Selby (of fame) documents in his completely engrossing coffee-table book. The photos feel purely in the moment — quirky, irreverent and totally engaging — and are annotated with fun, informative handwritten captions and arrows. His subjects span the globe — many you’ve heard of, many you haven’t — from René Redzepi at Noma in Copenhagen to a San Francisco fisherman who fishes out of storm drains. Each photo essay ends with a page of recipes, drawings and anecdotes handwritten by the subject, adding another level of intimacy, personality and energy. You can’t open this book without getting immediately — and happily — lost in it.

“Aida mollenkamp’s Keys to the Kitchen” (Chronicle books, $35) Few “how-to-cook” books really speak to food lovers. Their recipes are usually way too tame, as if people without cooking skills have palates to match. Not true! Aida Mollenkamp, who made her name at Chow. com, has written an exhaustive tome aimed at those who love to eat, but lack the kitchen prowess to cook what they love. Sure, there are step-by-step photos for deboning a chicken, but you’ll also learn how to debone a whole cooked fish. Yes, there’s a recipe for buttermilk biscuits, but they’re creatively served with black pepper brown butter. With 305 recipes and 300 photographs and illustrations, the book is jampacked with utility. The concept may be as old as Betty Crocker, but in Mollenkamp’s hands it gets a fresh, modern makeover. “Jerusalem” by Yotam ottolenghi and Sam Tamimi (Ten Speed Press, $35) From the London-based duo who wrote “Plenty,” a gorgeously photographed compendium of inventive, vibrant, accessible vegetarian food that was a screaming success last year, comes a similarly luscious ode to their melting pot of a hometown: Jerusalem. Ottolenghi grew up on the Jewish west side, Tamimi on the Arab east, and they incorporate these influences in a book packed with sumptuous Middle Eastern recipes. Straight-up traditional dishes are mixed with updated classics, though some recipes, like a platter of roasted sweet potatoes, green onions and fresh figs drizzled in a balsamic reduction, are just loosely inspired by the cuisine. Gorgeous photos and essays on history, neighborhoods and ingredients make this book one you’ll want to spend time with outside of the kitchen, too. £



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MIXpdX.coM november 2012

EAT top 10: Juicy, crisp-skinned roasted chickens to warm you up this fall We used to never order chicken at nice restaurants. Why bother? Anyone can make chicken. Besides, it’s so bland, right? Well, that was before chefs began sourcing local, pasture-raised birds, giving them flavor-packed marinades and brines, and geeking out on cooking them with bricks, logs and rotisseries. It turns out that, in the right hands, roast chicken can be the stuff of gastronomic dreams. Lucky for us, there’s no shortage of capable hands right here in Portland. Here’s our picks for 10 superb roast chickens around town. bar Avignon Around these parts, one’s arsenal of soggy-season doldrumsbusters should unquestionably include an evening at this snug Division Street wine bar, where the epitome of cozy is slipping into a candlelit booth, ordering a bottle of Cameron Pinot Noir, and planning a Galapagos getaway over a plate of classic roast chicken. It’s brined overnight before being seared “al mattone” (with a brick) and served over an autumn panzanella of chicories, Asian pears, golden chanterelles, beets and hazelnuts. 2138 S.E. Division St., 503-517-0808, — JeN SteveNSoN

bar avignon

Cafe Castagna By now, most Portlanders know that this comfortable little Hawthorne cafe can be relied upon to grill a flawless burger. Continuing in the vein of consummate comfort foods done right, it also dishes up a superb roast chicken. Birds are subject to a long salt soak and 45-minute kosher salt crust, then popped into the pizza oven, resulting in marvelously moist meat blanketed in lightly bronzed, herb-speckled skin. Autumn preparations veer east with a coating of harissa or, for a simple but lavish variation, a rub of chanterelle butter under the skin. 1758 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., 503-231-9959, — JeN SteveNSoN

Clyde Common Whether you’re a thigh, leg or breast man/woman, this downtown dining dynamo aims to please. Hens are sourced from small, family-owned Afton Field Farm in Corvallis, then painstakingly prepared — the breast spends six hours in a tarragon-tinged brine before being seared to a golden brown, while the leg and thigh are stewed in olive oil until exceptionally tender. Chef Chris DiMinno’s ever-changing culinary twists and turns mean it might come with international intrigue — a scallion-topped thigh over tahini-laced bulgur in a pool of romesco — or rustic Portland panache — a half bird nestled into farro polenta with farmers market chard. 1014 S.W. Stark St., 503-228-3333, — JeN SteveNSoN

photograph by jamie francis (left), and nancy hunt (above) november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


roast chicken, cont.

el Inka


even in a room with canary walls and an army of pepper sauces the color of easter eggs, el Inka’s Peruvian roast chicken stands out. Roasted on spits and rubbed with a distinctive mixture of black pepper, lime and cumin, your new favorite roast chicken is not only dirt cheap ($7.99 for a quarter bird), but it comes with a mountain of crisp fries (perfect for dunking in those colorful sauces) and salad. Along with these accompaniments, you can also bet that the mastermind behind el Inka, Claudia Fernandez, will be there as well, with a genuine sincerity that’s the ideal pairing for chicken this good. 48 N.E. Division St., Gresham, 503-491-0323, — KAt vetRANo



this lovingly restored former firehouse’s birds are coaxed into perfectly seasoned submission with a three-day, Peking-duckstyle dry brine, before their breasts are stuffed with thyme and they undergo a languorous whirl on the rotisserie behind chef Matthew Busetto’s station. they’re finished to order in the 750-degree oregon-oak-fed pizza oven, rendering their burnished skin simultaneously cracker crisp and melt-in-your-mouth luscious. this is what people are talking about when they wax on about love at first taste. 711 N.E. Dekum St., 503-954-1702, — JeN SteveNSoN

Imperial Proudly blazing front and center in the open kitchen of chefs vitaly Paley and Ben Bettinger’s new downtown class act is the mighty Universo grill and rotisserie — a forest green Florence-born stunner with but one American counterpart (at San Francisco’s acclaimed Cotogna). every morning, locally sourced, air-chilled birds are rotated slowly on the spit, halved and rested on a bed of fresh herbs. Just before serving, they’re placed on a sizzle platter and nestled near the coals, which imparts a luxuriant honeyed hue and releases aromatic juices that are tossed with the delicate young greens served alongside. 410 S.W. Broadway, 503-228-7222, — JeN SteveNSoN


photography by jamie francis

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World Class Wines

Shop Local! Bring a same-day receipt from a Lake Oswego shop to lunch at Scratch and receive a second entrée (of equal or lesser value) for free.

Our store selection is crafted for every wine lover, from the most exclusive to delicious everyday wines. While you’re here, enjoy a glass of wine with us, inside or outside! Friday night tastings are from 4:30-8:00. Private events welcome.

149 “A” Avenue 503.697.1330

269 “A” Avenue 503.974.9841

Trios Studios

Lakeside Bicycles Celebrate the Holidays! Come in for one tune-up, get a second one free. Lakeside Bicycles is where cycling dreams hang out. Home of fine dedicated service and the most exciting selection of brands in the Portland area! Bianchi, Cannondale, Cervelo, Colnago, Pegoretti, Pinarello & more.

428 North State Street 503.699.8665

The jewelers at Trios Studio are specialists at Restyling Family Jewelry, custom design and alternative wedding styles, including “Spexton” by Stuller. Featuring the best selection of Fair Trade Gemstones - Trios Studio - Jewelry for your personal style.

Oswego Towne Square 3 Monroe Pkwy, Ste. 1 503.496.1285

Soletta Shoes

Grapevine the Art of Style

Soletta Shoes specializes in exciting European fashions that are unique and great quality, yet practical and comfortable. Come visit us to see our great seasonal selection.

Find a fun and friendly boutique filled with all your favorite things to make you look and feel great! Shop Grapevine where 30 years experience makes fashion fit your lifestyle.

Lakeview Village 310 North State St. Suite 116 503.210.4125

310 North State Street 503.635.6009

Framed By Design

Providing custom framing to the greater Portland area for more than 20 years. We offer more than 5,000 frame choices that will enhance and protect your fine art, heirlooms, and collectibles. Visit our website or store to learn more about how our in-house staff can provide expert services for your home or business.

Lake Place Shopping Center 333 South State Street Suite U 503-699-9247

Patrick James Check out the new exciting Robert Graham deliveries. This waffle weave pullover quarter zip is perfect for Winter...just like you would expect from Patrick James.

310 N. State Street. 503.305.6575

roast chicken, cont.

olympic Provisions northwest

A salumi-stuffed meat case is the first thing to greet you at both locations, but the Northwest outpost has a bonus — behind the glass-encased ode to pork is a wall of glistening chickens roasting on an open rotisserie. the diminutive 2½ pound chickens from Draper valley are brined before rotating an hour until the skin is crisp and amber. the breasts may not be the juiciest around, but the legs remain delectably moist and intensely flavorful. Alongside is one of the best side dishes in town — a pile of tender fingerling potatoes, delicately scented with bay, crisp around the edges and bathed in silky, golden chicken fat. 1632 N.W. Thurman St., 503-894-8136, — DANIeLLe CeNtoNI


In a restaurant teeming with roosters, it’s nice to see the hen get her due. Chef Cathy Whims’ popular Italian kitchen brines

Woodsman tavern Draper valley chickens overnight, then cooks them slowly on the rotisserie, basting them gently in oak and alder smoke for two-and-a-half hours before plating them with accompaniments so hyper-seasonal they sometimes change several times weekly. the result is a smoky, succulent wonder on the bone, and despite the

polished surroundings, everyone will understand if you simply must gnaw on your fowl’s femur to capture every last meaty morsel. 1401 S.E. Morrison St., 503.234.2427, — JeN SteveNSoN


512 SE BASELINE, HILLSBORO • 503-648-2813

Jewelers Since 1892



825 NE Multnomah, Suite 280 Lloyd Center Tower Building


MIXpdX.coM november 2012

Across skybridge from Nordstrom


Xico Woodsman Tavern

Follow a half-dozen Fanny Bay’s on the half shell with this buzzy Division Street hotspot’s half bird. thanks to the restaurant’s uniquely hot and fast coal- and apple-wood-fueled Josper oven, the chicken is cooked to order and arrives at the table with her leg and wing stretched in a saucy

salute. It’s all the better to show off a lacquered skin so crisp, crackly and decadent that it may cause an incident at the table if your dining companions aren’t the sharing types. 4537 S.E. Division St., 971-373-8264, — JeN SteveNSoN

those who prefer their fowl well up the Scoville scale flock to chef Kelly Myers’ natty new Mexican eatery on Division Street. organic Draper valley chickens are soaked overnight in a dried chilesaturated brine, rubbed with ground chiles, strung onto the spit rods of a reborn Boston Market rotisserie, and basted with “volcanic vinegar” — a spirited infusion of serrano, Anaheim and Chile de árbol peppers. then the birds are sent to the table swimming in a rich, ruddy, 28-ingredient mole. PS: Call in your takeout order by noon and a full chicken dinner will be waiting for you to swoop up en route from work to tivo. 3715 SE Division St.; 503-548-6343; — JeN SteveNSoN £

photography by jamie francis

Come Explore

Delicacies from over 50 countries!

• Oregon Grown Meats • Farm Fresh Produce • Artisan Cheeses • 1,200 Wines • Over 600 Chilled Beers • Deli Dishes - Ya Hala Recipes Portland’s Favorite Lebanese Restaurant

• Catering 

9845 SW Barbur Blvd. 503.244.0670 Open Daily 7am - 10pm

november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


eat / technique

The perfect pie, one step at a time bY sarah curtis-fawleY photographY bY MotoYa nakaMura


FOR RESV. 503.220.1850


pacific pie co. owner sarah curtis-fawley and pastry chef kate withiam say a perfect crust is within anyone’s reach.



A PortlAnd trAdition Since 1892 “For over a century, Jake’s has been attracting crowds with a remarkably simple approach: well-produced, uncomplicated seafood served by a friendly, knowledgeable staff.” - Willamette Week, Portland’s Best Restaurants

FOR RESV. 503.226.1419 22

MIXpdX.coM november 2012

9-inch single-crust pies, or one double-crust pie

22⁄3 cups all-purpose flour ¾ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon baking powder 8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 1 ⁄3 to ½ cup ice water

“The classic Portland combination of elegance, informality and history.” - The Oregonian- A&E Diner


Makes enough for two

You don’t need a food processor, stand mixer or even a pastry cutter to make this flaky, tender pie crust. start with cold ingredients and simply use your hands.

A PortlAnd trAdition Since 1994


Pacific Pie Co.’s All-butter Pastry

aking the perfect pie crust can intimidate even the most seasoned home cook. There is a certain alchemy to coaxing the ultimate combination of flakiness and tenderness out of humble flour, butter and water. But we make hundreds of pies each week at Pacific Pie Co. and have the crusts down to a science. First, if you are going to the trouble to make pastry, you should definitely choose amazing butter. We use Rose Valley Butter from McMinnville, which is a European-style butter with a higher milk fat content. Other good choices are Crémerie Classique (also locally produced) or Plugra. Next, make sure all of your ingredients are super cold, use a light hand and try not to panic. As our pastry chef Kate Withiam says, “Almost anything can be fixed when making pie.” So take a deep breath and dust off your rolling pin. I have no doubt you’ll be able to pull off a beautiful pie with an impressive crust using our step-by-step guide.


EXTRA: Watch our step-bystep pie crust video and get the recipe for Pacific Pie Co.’s Chocolate Bourbon Hazelnut Pie at mIXPdX.COm

in a large metal mixing bowl, combine flour, salt and baking powder. cut butter into half-inch pieces and place in a small bowl. chill flour mixture and butter in the freezer for 15 minutes, or refrigerate overnight. fill a 2-cup measuring cup with ice water. place the butter pieces in the flour mixture and gently toss to coat. break up the butter with your fingers (do not knead) until the flour is a pale yellow and butter pieces are pea-sized. add apple cider vinegar and ⁄3 cup cold water (omit ice). gently toss the mix with your fingertips (again, resist the temptation to knead). when the liquid is absorbed, gently squeeze together a golf-ball-sized amount of pastry. if it crumbles too easily, add 1 tablespoon of water at a time until pastry starts to hold together when squeezed.


divide pastry into two equal portions, wrap in plastic wrap, press each into a disk, and chill for several hours or overnight. pastry can also be frozen for up to 1 month (defrost in refrigerator for 24 hours before using). —From Pacific Pie Co., Portland


combine dry ingredients in a metal mixing bowl. cut butter into half-inch pieces and place in a small bowl. chill flour mixture and butter in the freezer for 15 minutes, or refrigerate overnight. when you are ready to make your pastry, prepare 2 cups of ice water.


when the liquid is absorbed, gather a golf-ball size of pastry and gently squeeze together. if it crumbles too easily, add 1 tablespoon of water at a time until pastry starts to hold together. Your pastry will still seem a bit dry, but the flour will continue to hydrate when it is resting, so don’t add too much liquid.


to check if the pastry is large enough to fit in your pie plate, invert your pie plate onto it. You want about 2 inches of overhang all the way around the pie plate to allow enough pastry for a nice edge.



place the butter pieces in the flour mixture and gently toss to coat butter with flour. begin breaking up the pieces of butter with your fingers. do not knead butter into the flour (you want to maintain pieces of butter to ensure a flaky crust). continue to break up the butter until the flour mixture is pale yellow and all of the butter is pea-sized.


gather the dough into a ball. divide into two equal portions, wrap in plastic wrap, form each into a disk, and chill for several hours or overnight. (unless the pie needs a top crust, freeze the other disk for up to 1 month. defrost in the refrigerator for 24 hours before using.)

fold the piece of pastry into quarters and gently place into your pie plate. unfold the pastry and gently drape over the edge. do not press your pastry down into the pie plate.



add apple cider vinegar and cold water (omit ice). gently toss the mix with your fingertips. again, resist the temptation to knead the pastry.


liberally flour a clean, dry work surface and a rolling pin. break one disk of pastry in half and gently knead it back together (this will make it pliable and easier to roll). flour the top of the pastry. set the rolling pin in the center of the pastry and apply pressure down and out as you roll straight out across the pastry. lift the pastry, turn it a quarter-turn to the right, and roll down and out again. continue rolling and turning, adding more flour underneath the pastry if it starts to stick. if the pastry starts to tear or crack while rolling, don’t fix it until you have finished rolling. You can apply a small amount of water to “glue” the torn edges together, or use excess scraps of pastry to mend holes.

using a paring knife or kitchen shears, trim the excess pastry, leaving a 1-inch overhang.


fold the edge of the pastry over onto itself and gently pinch to create a ridge. ensure the ridge is resting on the edge of the pie plate for support. crimp pastry by pushing forward with your thumb and back with your fingers. put finished pie shell in the freezer for 15 minutes (or up to 1 month, wrapped) to relax pastry and set the edges. pie shell can be filled and baked directly from frozen. £ november 2012 MIXpdX.coM



Shop • Sip • Dine


Hillsdale Eye Care Hillsdale Eye Care is dedicated to providing personalized eye care based on the patient’s individual needs. We enjoy working with patients requiring demanding visual needs such as sports vision, difficult to fit contact lens (bifocal or astigmatism) and children’s eye care. Call for appointment. Open 6 days a week.

1522 SW Sunset Blvd. 503.672.9190

Hillsdale Farmers Market SW Portland’s year-round source for produce, cheeses, meats, eggs and more. Open Sundays 10am-2pm in the Wilson High-Rieke Elementary parking lot, 1405 SW Vermont St. Parking entrance at SW Capitol Hwy and SW Sunset Blvd. Weekly cooking demonstrations through November 18. Debit, credit and EBT cards accepted. Market runs weekly May 6-Nov 18, Dec 2, 16. 503.475.6555

Food Front

Paloma Clothing A unique and upbeat collection of clothing, handcrafted jewelry and accessories for travel, work and play.

The most delicious and fresh ingredients necessary for your holiday spread are found at Food Front Cooperative Grocery. Farm-direct produce, local wines and microbrews, LOCAL heritage turkeys from Deck Family Farm, available only at Food Front and carefully selected grocery items are the foundation of your delicious holiday meal. Eat Colorfully and Live Vibrantly this holiday season with Food Front Co-op.

6316 SW. Capitol Hwy. 503.246.3417

6344 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.546.6559

Korkage Wine Bar & Shop Enjoy live music and wine tasting in an intimate setting, featuring local boutique wineries and selected picks from around the World. The Korkage Chef, former instructor at a top hospitality school, offers gourmet small bite and wine pairings and expert wine consults - you can be confident you’ll find just the right bottle for any event!

6351 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.293.3146

Haircolor Salon Dirk Holiday 2012, Haircolor Salon Dirk embraces the beauty of the 1920’s with the deco decadence collection. The glamour of this era is a leading trend of 2012 as seen on red carpets and the silver screen. Holiday Gift Collections will be on sale in the salon beginning Oct. 31st through Dec. 24th.

1517 SW Sunset Blvd. 503-244-4242

To advertise in this space, please contact Darcy Paquette at 503.221.8299

shop local ~ shop hillsdale town center on sw capitol hwy.

eat / good for you

Fiber-rich chia seeds will grow on you By aBigaiL ChiPLey PhOTOgraPhy By MOTOya nakaMUra


f you ever watched TV in the 1980s, you might still be haunted by the stuttering “chi-chi-chi-chia!” jingle for Chia Pets — those kitschy terra-cotta animals that sprouted fuzzy green coats. But lately chia seeds have received a makeover, thanks in part to Christopher McDougall’s best-selling book, “Born to Run,” in which he credits the seeds as one of the main sources of fuel powering the marathon runs of the Tarahumara people. Native to Mexico and Guatemala, these tiny multi-colored seeds were cultivated by the Aztecs, who combined them with maize and used them in religious ceremonies. Nowadays, the somewhat pricey seeds are sold online and in the supplement section of health food stores, including local Whole Foods and New Seasons. They have also made their way into processed foods like energy bars and cereals. But are chia seeds really the “super food” marketers and alternative-health websites claim? If you believe the hype, they can help you lose weight, improve your athletic endurance, reduce your cholesterol and even make your skin look better. “In reality, there haven’t been many scientific studies done on chia seeds,” says Suzanne Eberle, a Portland-based, board-certified

Coconut-Chia Pudding Makes 4 servings

This pudding comes together in just minutes, though you’ll have to make it a few hours ahead to give it a chance to thicken. it won’t be as firm as traditional puddings, but it’s just as comforting and delicious. Make a double batch to keep on hand for a healthful treat. it’s especially delicious for breakfast – just add some dried fruit and toasted nuts. 1 cup canned coconut milk 1 cup whole milk ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom ¼ cup chia seeds ¼ cup toasted coconut, for serving Diced mango or persimmon or pomegranate seeds, for serving in a medium saucepan, combine coconut milk, milk and sugar. Over medium heat, bring to a simmer, whisking, until sugar has dissolved. remove from heat. Whisk in vanilla, cardamom and chia seeds. Let stand until cooled, about 30 minutes. Whisk again to break up any lumps and transfer to a covered container. refrigerate until thickened, at least 4 hours. (Pudding will keep, refrigerated, for several days.) Divide among bowls and top with coconut and fruit. — Abigail Chipley november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


good for you, cont.

Taste Local

Your local wine tour is closer than you think Food Front hand-selects the best local reds, whites and bubbles to meet every budget

Photo by: Maysara Winery, McMinnville, OR

Celebrate year round with a 20% wine case discount when you purchase 12 bottles or more of your choosing. Northwest: 2375 NW Thurman St | 503.222.5658 | 8am-10pm Hillsdale: 6344 SW Capitol Hwy | 503.546.6559 | 8am-9pm 26

MIXpdX.coM november 2012

sports dietician and former elite runner. They are high in antioxidants and contain good amounts of minerals, including calcium, manganese and magnesium. And, like flaxseeds, they’re one of the highest plant-based sources of omega-3s. However, this amount is low when compared to fish, and in a form not as readily absorbed by the body. The real power of chia seeds may be as a digestive aid. A single tablespoon contains 4 to 5 grams of fiber. Combined with water, chia forms a thick gel. This gel helps feed the good bacteria in your intestines, as well as bind toxins and provide bulk. But that’s why you don’t want to overdo it, warns Amy Johnson, a Portland-based naturopathic physician. “You can OD on them, because they are delicious. Then you’ve got a belly too full of fiber and you’re miserable,” something she found out the hard way. In that case, she advises drinking a lot of water. And if you’re using chia seeds as a workout food, you might also want to wait until after a long run to consume them, advises Eberle, because all that great fiber takes a long time to digest — up to four hours. Still, chia seeds are certainly nutritious and may be a good alternative to flax, another tiny seed that has long been a favorite of the health-conscious crowd. Their nutritional profile is similar, though flax is higher in iron, while chia is higher in calcium. But unlike flax, chia seeds don’t need to be ground to release their nutrients. Another advantage is the flavor — chia is mild and nutty — and the slightly crunchy texture is pleasant in baked goods. Books and websites offer dozens of ways to use chia seeds. One of the more traditional recipes is for chia fresca, a Mexican drink that combines chia, water, lemon or lime juice, and sugar. Sounds great, except the chia turns the drink into clear goo. If that’s not your thing, try mixing the seeds with sweetened milk, resulting in a fiber-rich pudding similar to tapioca. Chia can also be added to homemade granola or smoothies, or simply sprinkled on yogurt or salads, and it’s a great alternative to poppy seeds in baked goods. As it turns out, chia sprouts are delicious, too. So, if you still have that old chia pet, now is the time to drag it out of the basement and grow it some green fur. Then, simply shear its herbal coat and add those tiny, fresh-tasting sprouts to salads and sandwiches. Just don’t tell anybody you ate your pet, especially if you’re a vegetarian.

Almond-Chia Pound Cake Makes 8 TO 10 servings

almond flour and chia seeds add nutrition and nutty flavor to this versatile cake. it’s perfect for serving with tea or coffee, or alongside fruit compote and sweetened whipped cream. it keeps for days, making it perfect for giving to friends this time of year. 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup almond flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for the pan ¾ cup granulated sugar 3 large eggs, at room temperature 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 3 tablespoons chia seeds

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly butter and flour a 4½-by-8½-inch loaf pan. in a large bowl, whisk together both flours, baking powder and salt. Using an electric mixer, beat butter and sugar on medium-high speed until very light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. scrape down bowl and beat 1 minute more. add eggs, one at a time, beating well and scraping down bowl as needed. add vanilla. With mixer on low, add flour mixture. Continue mixing until combined, scraping down bowl as needed. add chia seeds and mix on low until combined. Transfer batter to pan and bake until a toothpick inserted in center of cake comes out with a few moist crumbs attached, 55 to 60 minutes. Let cool in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes, then remove cake from pan and let cool completely on rack before slicing. — Abigail Chipley

Lemon-Chia Pancakes With Ricotta Cheese Makes 4 servings (aBOUT 10 MeDiUM-sizeD PanCakes)

These light, fluffy pancakes are wonderfully addictive, and a dollop of jam, rather than a drizzle of syrup, brings out their light, lemony goodness. Try to use a brand of ricotta that’s on the firm side, such as Calabro, which you can find at Whole Foods. if yours seems particularly liquidy, drain off some of the moisture. 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt ¾ cup fresh ricotta cheese ¾ cup whole milk 3 large eggs, separated 2 tablespoons honey Finely grated zest of 2 lemons 2 tablespoons chia seeds Butter, for cooking and serving Jam or maple syrup, for serving

in a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt. in a large bowl, mix together ricotta, milk, egg yolks, honey, lemon zest and chia seeds. add the flour mixture to the cheese mixture and mix just until batter is combined. in a large bowl, beat egg whites with an electric mixer until stiff. gently fold egg whites into the batter. heat a griddle or large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat; brush surface with butter. Working in batches, ladle 1⁄3 cup batter for each pancake. Cook until underside is golden and top begins to bubble, 3 to 4 minutes. gently turn and continue cooking until bottoms are light brown, 3 to 4 minutes more. serve immediately with jam or maple syrup. — Abigail Chipley £ november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


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OUT + ABOUT FEAST PorTlAnd PhoTogrAPhy by KUrT PErEnChIo

Hundreds of people from around the world gathered for this four-day extravaganza honoring Portland’s world-class food and drink scene. MIX was on set as top chefs from across the country joined our locally celebrated chefs in a dynamic exchange of culinary excellence that wasn’t to be missed.


2 3

[1] Ace of Cakes star Duff Goldman fries up an intimidating egg sandwich. [2] The all-too-familiar long line forms in front of Salt & Straw. [3] Departure’s Gregory Gourdet mollifies an eager crowd with creations from his own menu.


Wine pairings for a locally grown Thanksgiving feast By Raechel SimS

Thanksgiving in Oregon is a locavore’s dream holiday. From wild turkeys and winter squash to cranberries and apples, much of what we place on our tables can be freshly harvested from nearby farms. Of course, we’re just as blessed when it comes to wine, with an avalanche of varietals produced around the state. And that got us thinking: If we can load the table with local foods, why not load it with local wines, too? Instead of tethering ourselves to just one or two labels for the entire feast, what if we turned Thanksgiving into an interactive wine tasting by pairing a wine to each dish? Then we took things one step further and only chose wines that were grown in the same area as the food. For oenophiles, it offers the thrill of pairing not only by palette but also by terroir. And for everyone else, well, it’s just more wine — who wouldn’t drink to that? Here’s our list of locally grown ingredients to consider for your holiday menu, with wines paired by place, as well as taste. Even if you stick with one or two bottles instead of the full list, you’ll find more than enough options for your holiday feast.


aFTON FIELD FaRM Corvallis Located on the southwest outskirts of Corvallis, Afton Field Farm relies on a “multi-species rotational grazing method” to raise cattle, swine, lamb and poultry. The BroadBreasted White turkeys thrive on a foraged diet before finishing with a grain-based feed from Haystack Farm and Feeds of Culver. One of only a handful of small farms with an on-site poultry processing facility, Afton Field Farm owners Tyler and Alicia Jones focus their production on “supplying their immediate community” via a CSA program, Portland buying club, and their on-site farm store, open six days a week.


Though south of the Yamhill-Carlton region, Afton Field shares a similar makeup of soil types, insects and weather patterns. And the variety of differently styled pinots created in Yamhill makes it an ideal place to find your perfect pairing, regardless of bird preparation. For classic roasted birds, elk Cove vineyards’ 2010 La bohème Pinot noir provides gentle notes of blackberry and lavender – surely part of your Afton Field turkey’s foraged diet. In the case of interiorstuffing roasters, Luminous Hills’ 2010 estate LUX Pinot noir displays a complementary smoky, tobacco-heavy base. And for those skipping the oven and going straight to the deep fryer, Anne Amie vineyards’ 2009 estate vineyard Pinot noir

holds its own with notes of black tea and funky forest floor.

november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


wine pairings, cont.

Potatoes: La TERRa VITa FaRMs southeast of salem

Be they mashed or roasted, potatoes will inevitably appear on your Thanksgiving table in some form. La Terra vita Farms, 25 miles southeast of Salem, offers a wide array of organically grown heirloom varietals such as “Yellow Finns,” known for their exceptionally buttery flavor, and mineral-dense “All Blues,” an ideal baking option. Look for them at the PSU farmers market.

Spectacular 18ct Lightening Ridge Black Opal, 18k White Gold


Located at Twenty-Seven “A” Ave. in picturesque downtown Lake Oswego

For traditional mashed or butter-friendly preparations, an un-oaked chardonnay serves as a lovely palette-reprieve between bites. J. Christopher’s 2011 “Cuvée Lunatique” Chardonnay provides both great acidity and solid minerality, showcasing notes of grass and pear. For roasted dishes, The Four Graces’ 2011 Willamette valley Pinot blanc offers a bouquet of lychee and apple, complementing a range of seasonings.

Open Tuesday thru Friday 10 to 5:30 Saturday 10 to 4


Cranberries: EagLE ORgaNIC CRaNbERRIEs bandon

While most of Oregon’s cranberry crop gets turned into juice, a few family-owned farms are still making sure fresh berries find their way to your table. eagle organic Cranberries of Bandon uses the original dry-harvest, vine-ripening method, resulting in a more delicate and flavorful berry than conventionally farmed counterparts. Look for them at New Seasons and Market of Choice.


Though coastal wines are few and far between, the 2011 Umpqua valley

Gewürztraminer from brandborg vineyards is grown and produced at an

identical latitude, 80 miles inland from the Eagle Organic fields. Elegant tones of tangerine and cardamom will nicely complement traditional cranberry preparations, including cinnamon and clove. november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


wine pairings, cont.

Custom Jewelers Jewelers Custom

“The Most Most Beautiful Beautiful Jewelry...” Jewelry...” “The

7858 Portland OregonOregon 97219 97219 503-223-6020 7858 SW SWCapitol CapitolHighway Highway Portland 503-223-6020 7858 SW Capitol Highway Portland Oregon 97219 503-223-6020



Arguably the most malleable side dish, popular interpretations include everything from celery and apples to cranberries and oysters. Regardless of your preferred recipe and how many locally grown ingredients you choose to cram in there, Grand Central baking Co. provides the most important ingredient: high-quality bread. For white loaves like its famous Como, the bakery uses Shepherd’s Grain flour, grown on family farms in Central and Eastern Washington, Western Idaho and Northeastern Oregon. The Como is one of several breads used in its seasonally available rustic Stuffing mix. For its whole-wheat hearth breads, like the hearty Campagnolo loaf, it uses flour from Camas Country Mills, grown and milled in the Willamette Valley.


A savory staple, stuffing is the perfect opportunity to incorporate riesling into your Thanksgiving lineup. brooks Winery’s 2011 Sweet P riesling is an explosion of honeycomb and key lime, with the perfect balance of acidity and sugar. And if you’d rather pair to the hearty terroir of Central and Eastern Washington, consider Chateau St. Michelle’s re-release of its 2007 eroica riesling. A partnership with the legendary Dr. Loosen winery of Germany’s Mosel region, this wine’s bouquet of dried tropical fruit will complement any stuffing recipe.


MIXpdX.coM november 2012

Whether you’re a man or woman, in your 20’s or 80’s,

Pumpkin pie: sTaHLbUsH IsLaND FaRMs Corvallis

It’s the quintessential Thanksgiving dessert, and thanks to Stahlbush Island Farms in Corvallis, you can make yours with organic, locally grown pumpkins by simply opening a can of its Farmer’s market brand pumpkin purée. Even easier? The organic Pumpkin Pie mix includes all the seasonings and cane sugar you’ll need to take credit for a delicious homemade pie.


In general, the rule is that dessert wine should be sweeter than the final course itself. Less than 30 miles north of Stahlbush Farms, Airlie Winery produces its 2008 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer only in exceptional vintages (the previous release of this palette-pleaser was 2003). Possessing all the nuanced spice of a dry gewürztraminer — rose hips, clove — this bottle delivers heavenly notes of fig and Asian pear while maintaining sharp acidity that prevents it from being too viscous. A perfect way to end a perfect meal. £

varicose and spider veins can affect the way you look and feel. And they can do more than just kill your confidence. They can also cause a host of symptoms from discomfort and pain to ulcers and blood clots.

The Vein Clinic at PWC offers a variety of treatments to best meet the individual needs of each patient. Often covered by insurance, our minimally invasive procedures have a better than 95% success rate. The time to see the vein experts is right now, so that you can be confident, active, and pain free this coming summer.

Troublesome Veins Do Not Discriminate. Call for a personalized assessment and free consultation today.

503.771.1883 •

The Vein CliniC november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


drink / beer

Roasty stouts and porters for your glass and your stockpot By john foyston / photography By motoya nakamura


arkening days call for heartier fare and darker beers. Porters and stouts are the darkest of the lot, and as luck would have it, their rich, roasty flavors with notes of coffee and chocolate make them perfect for adding to the soups, stews and braises of late fall. These beers are rich in the glass and rich in history, but they’re not exactly easy to categorize. Even the outfit that defines beer styles for professional beer competitions recognizes three porter styles and six styles of stout: Irish dry stout, sweet stout, oatmeal stout, foreign export stout, American stout and imperial stout. Faced with so many choices for your glass, not 34

MIXpdX.coM november 2012

to mention the soup pot, what’s an aspiring beer cook to do? Don’t worry about it. Sample different beers at your local pub and bottle shop to figure out the flavors you like, then let your intuition guide you to the best beer for the recipe. “Very simply, the biggest difference between any porter and any stout is going to be intensity of roasted barley/roasted malt character and the body,” says Sam Pecoraro, who works at BeerMongers, brews at Burnside Brewing and is a certified beer cicerone. “Most stouts will have more roasted character and body than most porters.” When cooking with beer, Jeff Usinowicz, executive chef at Deschutes

Brewery’s Portland pub, says the only rule of thumb is to avoid reductions. Reducing almost any beer can result in unpleasant bitterness thanks to hops that just keep getting sharper. But porters and stouts are great for braises and surprisingly versatile in soups — potato, tomato, even white bean. Want a quick sauce for that steak or roast? Just heat Black Butte Porter, some Worcestershire sauce and butter in a sauté pan. “These are some of the most approachable beers to cook with,” Usinowicz says, “because you’re not dealing with overwhelming hoppiness. They’re well-suited for cooking the richer, meatier dishes of winter.”


Roasted butternut squash, greens & goat cheese galette $5.99 ea


Bandon Cranberry Company $2.99 12oz bag



Cranberry sauce $6.99/qt


Domaine Trouvère Pinot Noir $14.99

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beer, cont.

The wide world of stouts 

PorterS to try:

Black with a roasted, coffeelike taste, Guinness is the very definition of dry Irish stout. Beamish and Murphy’s are others.

deschutes black butte Porter: the best-selling craft porter in the u.s. for good reason. anchor Porter: a classic. Fuller’s London Porter, Samuel Smith’s taddy Porter: fine examples of English porters. PortLand brewPubS: most will have a porter on tap, such as Laurelwood’s tree Hugger Porter and Columbia river Brewing’s Paddler’s Porter, a Balticstyle porter with vanilla beans. Lompoc’s monster mash Imperial Porter and batch 69 baltic Porter also come in bottles.

StoutS to try: Hopworks 7 Grain Survival Stout: the grist bill includes barley, wheat, oats, amaranth, quinoa, spelt and kamut, finished with coldpressed stumptown coffee. widmer milk Stout: thanks to the Widmers and homebrewers, an English style is rescued from obscurity. the added milk sugar is unfermentable and gives the beer some balancing sweetness. upright oyster Stout: Brewed with oyster liquor, this seasonal is well worth the effort of finding it. start at the brewery near memorial Coliseum. Fort George Cavatica Stout: It’s

milk stouts (also called cream stouts) are great for those who want something sweeter than Guinness. They’re made with lactose, a sugar derived from milk, which adds sweetness and body. This obscure English style has been revived in our parts by Widmer. available in cans, as breakside dry Stout may soon be. rogue Shakespeare Stout: american stout at its most stout. It has been named the best stout in the world at least once. Guinness Stout: the definition of stout to most people. Samuel Smith’s oatmeal Stout: see what oatmeal adds to the texture of this classic. the brewery also makes Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout, which, at 7 percent alcohol by volume, is big enough, but not as big as some craft brewers’ versions. redhook double black Stout: an old favorite returns in bottles. DBs is a robust stout brewed with Caffe Vita coffee for a rich coffee flavor, with chocolate notes. pours black with a thick tan head.

oyster stouts, such as the seasonal version from Upright Brewing, are brewed with oyster liquor and remind us that nothing accompanies a plate of oysters like a stout or a porter. Chocolate stouts can taste of chocolate because they use malts that have been roasted until a chocolate flavor emerges. However, sometimes these beers do

contain actual chocolate. Like chocolate stouts, coffee stouts get their distinct flavor from malts roasted until a bitter coffee flavor emerges. Some brewers enhance this flavor with actual ground coffee. oatmeal stouts are a bit sweeter than dry stouts, with a silky mouth feel and great head retention. Foreign extra stouts are bigger, stronger, broader beers and related to American stouts, which tend to have more pronounced roasted malt presence with a sharper, almost acidic, coffee impression and are often hopped with citrusy American hops. If you want more of everything, reach for an imperial stout. Created as an export to Catherine the Great, it’s hoppier with a higher alcohol content to withstand the ocean voyage.

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Porter-braised Short ribs makEs 8 sErVIngs

StoutS and PorterS, a HIStory In London in the early 1700s, it was not uncommon to ask for a blend of several draft beers, and one of the most popular was called three threads. (Much of this history is taken from Garrett Oliver’s excellent book, “The Brewmaster’s Table,” which is a mustread for those interested in good food and good beer.) In 1722 a London brewer came out with a beer, Mr. Harwood’s Entire, that captured the flavors of the favored blend. The beer quickly became popular with London’s thirsty porters and laborers, so much so that it became known as porter beer, and the name Entire fell into disuse. Porters became popular in other countries, too, including Ireland, where Guinness Porter was the beer for decades before it started brewing its famous stout. A patent roaster invented in the early 19th century gave brewers what they needed to make stronger porters — stout porters. They were able to roast raw barley until it was black as coffee beans, which gives stouts their black color and roasty/ chocolate flavors. As a result, stouts are more brusque in flavor and quite black, as black as that Spinal Tap album cover. (Q: How much blacker could it be? A: None more black … ) A porter may allow some shards of light to surface in the garnet and infrared range and they often possess a certain silkiness. Still, as dark as they are, stouts and porters are usually not high in alcohol.

though it cooks for several hours, this hearty dish takes very little effort to prepare. If you want to serve it on a bed of something starchy, like mashed potatoes, polenta, egg noodles or spaetzle, omit the baby potatoes and stir in some roasted mushrooms or winter squash before serving. the cooking liquid gets its deep flavor from browned tomato paste, real beef stock and a full bottle of porter. 5 pounds beef short ribs Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, diced 2 medium carrots, peeled and diced 2 celery ribs, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste 4 cups beef stock (we used reconstituted More Than Gourmet demi-glace) 1 (22-ounce) bottle porter or stout (we used Deschutes Black Butte Porter) 3 sprigs fresh thyme 1 bay leaf 2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch by ½-inch sticks 1 pound baby potatoes Crusty bread, for serving

preheat oven to 350 degrees. season ribs generously with salt and pepper on both sides. set a large, oven-safe, 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. add the oil. When hot, brown the ribs on all sides in batches (don’t crowd the pot or the meat will steam instead of sear). transfer ribs to a plate as they finish browning. reduce heat to medium and add the diced onion, carrots and celery. sauté until beginning to caramelize, about 7 minutes. add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. push the vegetables to one side and add the tomato paste. allow paste to cook for 2 to 3 minutes until beginning to darken, then combine with the vegetables. add the stock, stirring to scrape up the browned bits. then stir in the porter, thyme and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, add ribs, cover and transfer to the oven. allow to cook until meat is very tender, 2½ to 3 hours. about 1 hour before the meat is done, add the carrot sticks and baby potatoes, tucking them around the meat so that they get submerged in the liquid. When meat is done, transfer the cooked ribs, carrot sticks and potatoes to a platter or large bowl. allow cooking liquid to stand until the fat rises to surface, about 15 minutes. skim off as much fat as you can. taste the remaining liquid and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper if needed. pull the meat off the ribs and add the meat and vegetables back to the liquid and heat through over medium. Ladle into bowls and serve with crusty bread. —Danielle Centoni £

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Simple tools for better coffee at home By Hanna neuscHwander IllustratIons By allIson Berg

Want to make the perfect cup of coffee? Three simple kitchen tools — a scale, thermometer and timer — can help you control the three important factors when it comes to coffee brewing: dose, time and heat.

1 Weigh your coffee

as bakers know, weight is more accurate than volume when measuring dry ingredients. If you use the same scoop to measure different coffees, you may be getting different amounts, depending on the density of the beans or the coarseness of the grind.

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3 Weigh your water

2 Tune to your taste


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MIXpdX.coM november 2012

For a 12-ounce mug, start with 21 grams of coffee. you might like your coffee stronger or weaker, so test out a few different strengths (sunday mornings are great for this) and find what you like, measuring as you go.

weighing water makes it easy to get an accurate measure. you need 350 grams of water for one 12-ounce cup of coffee. If you’re making coffee in an auto-drip, keep in mind the standard “cup” size for these brewers is actually 5 to 6 ounces. that means a “10-cup pot” of coffee only makes about five 12-ounce cups. For a full pot, measure how many ounces your carafe actually holds and do the math.

drink / technique

your 5 Warm mug and pot

4 Temperature matters

Many of the best flavors in coffee show up for the party only if the water’s hot but not too hot. If you are heating your water in kettle or pot, bring it to a boil, then remove it from heat. use a clip-on thermometer to check when the temperature has dropped to 205 degrees. Many auto-drip machines don’t get water hot enough — a good reason to make coffee by hand.

Before you pour the hot water over the grounds, use some of the water to warm up your coffee brewer and your mug. If you don’t, they will quickly absorb much of the heat from the water before the coffee has time to brew.

6 Flavor changes with time

the flavors of coffee migrate from ground beans into water over time. If you brew for too long, the grounds will start leaching bitter flavors. If your brewing time is too short, you can end up with coffee that tastes a bit sour and flat.

7 Time it just right

the ideal brewing time depends on how you are making your coffee. Many made-by-hand methods are faster than auto-drips, which usually take five minutes or more.

november 2012 MIXpdX.coM



digging deep into root vegetables Bring something new to the table with recipes that combine the familiar with the unexpected By Diane Morgan Photography by WenDi norDeck


MIXpdX.coM november 2012

Hard, gnarled and stained witH dirt ,

root vegetables don’t exactly beg to be cooked with. But they’ve always intrigued me, particularly the unusual ones i’d find at the farmers market come fall. i’d return to my house after shopping, weighed down with canvas bags full of winter greens, squashes and roots. it was a relief to get out of the cold and rain, make a cup of tea, and turn on the oven. as i unpacked my bags, i would get energized, setting out the vegetables i knew well — butternut squash, kale, freshly dug potatoes and carrots — along with the not-so-familiar ones i’d picked up out of curiosity — things like celery root, parsley root and salsify. the market had provided me with an adventure, the chance to learn about new varietals and research recipes that utilize them. Over the years, i continued choosing these seasonal roots as i planned my autumnal dinners and holiday side dishes, recalling my tried-and-true recipes and discovering new ones. and after a while, even the strangest specimens became old friends that helped me mark the transition into fall and winter. when the weather grew cold, i knew it was time to fish my serrated peeler out of the drawer to remove their tough skins. i’d have to sharpen my knife to cut through their hard, thick flesh. and i’d need a little extra muscle to heft my large braising pot and roasting pan. it’s the physicality of this work that always reminds me of the rhythms of the season. My new cookbook “roots” (Chronicle Books, $40) brings together what i’ve learned about root vegetables with recipes that showcase them best, four of which you’ll find on the following pages. My hope is that you’ll get just as excited as i do when i see celery root, parsley root, parsnips and scorzonera at the market. these recipes ease you into cooking with unfamiliar roots by combining them with more common ingredients like carrots and pears, and using them in familiar dishes like mashes and gratins. they exploit the best of fall and winter produce, and, hopefully, make you hungry for more.

november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


scorzonera and wild Mushroom ragout MAkeS 6 SeRvIngS

Scorzonera is a root similar to salsify and can be used interchangeably. In fact, it’s often called “black salsify.” The sooty black stuff covering it does stain fabrics, but once you scrub it and peel it, you’re left with a delicious, mild-tasting vegetable that can be roasted, sautéed, fried, boiled or steamed. It’s particularly luscious in this rich ragout. You can find it at Raw Raw Raw Produce at City Market when it’s in season (October-March) and some farmers markets. 3 3 4 4 1 1 2 ½ ¼ 2 2 2

tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil tablespoons unsalted butter shallots (about 6 ounces), finely chopped large garlic cloves, finely chopped pound scorzonera, trimmed, peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks, and parboiled (see below) pound wild mushrooms such as porcini, chanterelle or morel, stems trimmed and thickly sliced teaspoons kosher or fine sea salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup medium-sweet Madeira cups heavy whipping cream teaspoons fresh lemon juice teaspoons finely chopped fresh oregano

In a large sauté pan, warm the oil and butter over medium-low heat until the butter melts and then swirl to coat the pan bottom. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté, stirring frequently, until the shallots are translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the scorzonera and mushrooms, sprinkle with the salt and pepper, and sauté, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms soften and have given up most of their liquid, about 5 minutes. Add the Madeira and stir to blend. Use a heat-resistant rubber spatula or a wooden spoon to scrape up any brown bits from the pan bottom. Add the cream and lemon juice and bring to a simmer. Adjust the heat so the ragout slowly simmers and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Stir in the oregano. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately. — From “Roots” by Diane Morgan (Chronicle Books, $40)

Parboiled salsify or scorzonera Often a recipe calls for salsify or scorzonera to be partially cooked before it is sautéed, simmered in a sauce, or roasted. This is the basic, easy method to follow. Fill a large saucepan three-fourths full with water and add 1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar or distilled white vinegar for every 8 cups water. Trim and peel salsify or scorzonera and cut into thin slices on the diagonal, into 3-inch logs, or into 1-inch chunks, as directed in the recipe you are using. Because the root begins to brown as soon as it is cut, drop the pieces into the vinegar water as you cut them. Let soak for at least 10 minutes or up to 1 hour before cooking. have ready a large bowl of ice water and a colander. Bring the water in the saucepan to a boil over high heat and cook the salsify or scorzonera until crisp-tender, 6 to 7 minutes for thin slices and 8 to 10 minutes for logs or chunks. Drain in the colander and transfer to the ice water to cool completely, about 2 minutes, and then drain again. Wrap the pieces in several thicknesses of paper towels to dry.Use immediately, or wrap in dry paper towels, place in a zip-top plastic bag, seal closed, and refrigerate for up to 2 days. — From “Roots” by Diane Morgan (Chronicle Books, $40)


MIXpdX.coM november 2012

Celery root Purée with anjou Pear MAkeS 8 SeRvIngS, AS A SIDe DISh

When summer fades and the markets fill with fall fruits and roots, make this savory-sweet purée of pears and celery root, a perfect accompaniment to roast pork tenderloin or to pork of any kind. 1 large celery root, about 1½ pounds, trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1-inch cubes Kosher or fine sea salt 4 Anjou pears, about 2 pounds ¼ cup unsalted butter ½ cup dry vermouth ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg ½ cup heavy whipping cream, warmed Freshly ground white pepper

Fill a 6-quart saucepan two-thirds full of water. Add the celery root and 1 teaspoon salt, cover partially, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat so the water simmers and cook until the celery root is tender when pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes. Drain the celery root in a colander and return it to the pan. Place the pan over low heat for 1 minute to evaporate any excess moisture. Meanwhile, peel, halve and core the pears and cut them into 1-inch chunks. In a large frying pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the pears and ½ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pears are soft, about 5 minutes. Add the vermouth and nutmeg and continue cooking until the pears are very soft and the sauce thickens, about 5 minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat. In a food processor, combine half each of the celery root, pears and cream; process until completely smooth. Transfer the purée to a warmed serving bowl. Repeat with the remaining celery root, pears and cream and add to the bowl. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Serve immediately or keep warm in the top of a double boiler or cover and rewarm in a microwave oven. — From “Roots” by Diane Morgan (Chronicle Books, $40)

november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


roasted Parsnips and Carrots with Fresh dill 

MAkeS 8 TO 10 SeRvIngS

This vegetable dish needs no last-minute attention, making it an ideal choice for busy cooks. The ivory and orange root vegetables, flecked with fresh dill, complement roasted poultry and are a colorful addition to a wintertime meal or a good addition to a Thanksgiving buffet, especially because they can be made in advance and reheat well. 8 medium parsnips, about 2½ pounds 1½ pounds tender carrots 1 ⁄3 extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons kosher or fine sea salt


MIXpdX.coM november 2012

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees. Trim and peel the parsnips and carrots. Cut them into sticks about 3 inches long by ½ inch wide and ½ inch thick. In a large roasting pan or oven-to-table baking dish, toss the parsnips and carrots with the oil, dill, pepper and salt. Roast, stirring once or twice, until the vegetables are tender when pierced with a knife and lightly caramelized in spots, about 45 minutes. Serve immediately, or cover and keep warm for up to 1 hour before serving. (The roasted vegetables can be made up to 1 day in advance, covered and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature 2 hours before reheating and then reheat in a 350 degree oven until hot, about 20 minutes.) — From “Roots” by Diane Morgan (Chronicle Books, $40)

Parsley root and Butternut squash gratin MAkeS 6 TO 8 SeRvIngS

On dreary rainy weekends during the fall and winter, I stay indoors and putter in the kitchen. I want the oven on for additional warmth, and I often get hungry for a crusty Parmesantopped vegetable gratin. This humble dish, with multiple layers of potato, butternut squash and parsley root, is scented with garden herbs — whatever mixture pleases you — and baked with just enough cream and Parmesan to add richness. The parsley root adds a subtle, rustic earthiness to the gratin. I prefer to buy a small butternut squash, but it’s sometimes hard to find one. You’ll most likely end up with a bigger squash than you need for this gratin. Use the top portion that does not contain the seeds for this dish, and cube the remainder for a quick sauté on another night. 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced Kosher or fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons minced mixed fresh herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage and parsley 12 ounces Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and thinly cut into 1⁄16-inch slices 1 (12-ounce) butternut squash, trimmed, peeled, seeded, halved lengthwise and thinly cut into 1 ⁄16 -inch slices 3 tablespoons heavy whipping cream (divided) ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, preferably ParmigianoReggiano One (12-ounce) parsley root, trimmed, peeled and thinly cut into 1⁄16 -inch slices ¾ cup lightly packed fresh bread crumbs 1 large garlic clove, minced Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. grease a 2-quart shallow, broiler-safe baking or gratin dish with ½ tablespoon of the oil. In a large sauté pan, heat 1½ tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the herbs and toss to combine. Remove the pan from the heat. Arrange half of the potato slices in a tight, overlapping layer on the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Spread half of the sautéed onions evenly over the top. Arrange half of the squash slices on top of the onions in a

tight, overlapping layer. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Drizzle 1½ tablespoons of the cream over the squash and scatter 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan over the top. next, arrange half of the parsley root in an even layer on top and season with salt and pepper. Repeat the layers exactly as you have just done, using all of the remaining vegetables and cream and 1 tablespoon of the cheese. Cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil. Bake until the squash and potatoes are tender when poked with a fork, 35 to 45 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and garlic and stir to

toast lightly, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a shallow bowl to cool for 10 minutes. Add the remaining 6 tablespoons Parmesan cheese to the bread crumbs and toss to combine. Remove the gratin from the oven, uncover, and sprinkle the bread crumb mixture evenly over the top. Position an oven rack about 4 inches from the broiler and turn the oven setting to broil. Place the gratin under the broiler to crisp and brown the top, 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside to rest for 10 minutes before serving. Cut into wedges or squares and serve directly from the baking dish. — From “Roots” by Diane Morgan (Chronicle Books, $40) £ november 2012 MIXpdX.coM



MIXpdX.coM november 2012


A touch of luxe These updated classic French sauces are easier than you think, and they’ll take your cooking to a whole new level. I weNt to cooKINg school in Paris years ago, and one of the things I gained was a repertoire of sauces — all French, of course. some were blah and a few were time-consuming, but most were remarkably delicious and easy to incorporate into daily cooking. Unfortunately, those few timeconsuming sauces have spoiled it for the rest of them (darn you, sauce espagnole!) because so many people think that “making a sauce” is a big deal. and sure, making a true demiglace-style sauce takes hours of roasting, reduction and skimming — and that’s just to get your liquid. But most sauces involve few ingredients, not more than a few minutes’ time, and the payoff is so worth the effort. once you’ve got your own repertoire of sauces there’s so much you can do: whip up a citrusy, billowy hollandaise to spoon over a piece of simply grilled fish, crab cakes or

steamed broccoli rabe. make an intensely sweet-tangy butter sauce to drizzle on roasted Brussels sprouts, pork tenderloin or chicken breasts. create a caramel sauce that is shockingly easy and equally delicious, and can make a homey bread pudding a company-worthy dessert. and come thanksgiving, you can make gravy — good, rich, homemade gravy. honestly, being able to make any of these sauces will change your life in wonderful ways (I’m not kidding). But there’s a catch, just a tiny catch: each sauce has a little technical trick that you need to understand in order to do things correctly. None of the tricks are hard, but if you’re not aware of what’s going on in your pan or bowl, you can find yourself in trouble. so that’s what my goal is here: to walk you through the potentially scary parts of four versatile, celebratory sauces, so that you can produce them yourself – fearlessly, flawlessly and with just the slightest French accent.

By martha holmBerg Photography by Beth NaKamUra november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


Chicken or Turkey Gravy Makes about 1½ cups

If you can use homemade stock to supplement the pan drippings, you’re pretty much assured to have a delicious gravy. but canned broth is fine, too, as long as it’s not too salty. I like swanson’s reduced sodium and I really like savory choice, which you can get at Zupan’s and New seasons, among other local spots. 1 roasting pan with a nice layer of pan drippings from the roasted poultry 1 tablespoon fat from the pan Up to 1½ cups chicken or turkey broth 1½ tablespoons all-purpose flour Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

set a platter or cutting board on a rimmed baking sheet (to catch the juices). set the roasted bird on top and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Without scraping the roasting pan, gently pour the juices and fat into a gravy separator or tall measuring cup. Leave the juices and fat to settle for a few minutes, and then spoon or pour off the fat into another container. Measure out the defatted juices and add chicken or turkey broth until you have about 1½ cups total liquid. set the roasting pan across two burners and turn the heat to medium. (If your pan only fits over one burner, be sure to slide it around as needed to heat it evenly.) When things start to gently sizzle, add the fat and flour, and whisk together rapidly, incorporating the brown bits that want to come along. this is called a roux. When the roux is smooth, turn the heat to low and cook, whisking constantly, for about 1 minute more, to develop some flavors in the flour. Now slowly begin pouring in the pan juice-broth mixture while whisking rapidly. the key is to stay ahead of the lumps, whisking so quickly that the roux absorbs and blends with the liquid before it has a chance to get too thick. If you do see lumps developing, don’t worry. Just add a bit more liquid and whisk until you work them out. You can strain them out later, if all else fails. after carving the bird, pour in the juices that were collected in the baking sheet and simmer the gravy for a minute or two. If it’s too thick, add more broth; too thin, simmer for a few more minutes to reduce. taste and season generously with salt and pepper. keep warm until ready to serve. — From “Modern Sauces” by Martha Holmberg (Chronicle Books, $35)


MIXpdX.coM november 2012

Technique: Gravy avoiding the dreaded lumps is the trick to gravy. start by making a smooth roux first, and then whisk in the liquid at such a pace that you never let the mixture get too thick and gloppy. But know that if lumps arise, and you can’t whisk them into submission, you can always strain the finished gravy, and all will be well.

Orange-Rosemary Balsamic Beurre Blanc Makes about ½ cup

this sauce is so delicious that I found myself eating it with a spoon during the testing sessions for my book, but really it’s meant to be drizzled around a sautéed pork medallion or seared scallop. the concentrated balsamic vinegar turns the sauce a lovely, glossy brown, almost like a chocolate sauce. use a decent vinegar but not an artisanal one. I like Lucini brand, which costs around $10 for a small bottle. that’s seems to be a fair price for a good-quality balsamic vinegar to use for cooking, rather than as a condiment. ¼ cup balsamic vinegar ¼ cup fresh orange juice 1 teaspoon minced shallot or yellow onion 1 fresh rosemary sprig, 4 inches long 4 tablespoons very cold unsalted butter (in one large piece); more as needed ¼ teaspoon kosher salt In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, orange juice, shallot and rosemary and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. cook, stirring and scraping the sides of the pan occasionally with a heat-resistant rubber spatula, until the liquid is reduced to 3 tablespoons (it may be difficult to judge the volume because of the herb sprig in the pan), 3 to 5 minutes. add the butter and start stirring it around in circles with a whisk, a fork, a wooden spoon or anything that lets you “stab” the hunk of butter so that you can move it around easily. the butter will start to melt and the mixture will bubble and boil around the edges. the melted butter should look creamy, rather than melted and oily. keep stirring and blending until almost all of the butter is incorporated, then remove the pan from the heat as you work in the last bit. Remove and discard the rosemary sprig (squeegee the sauce off it with your fingers so you don’t lose a drop) and whisk in the salt. taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. If the sauce is still very sharp, whisk in another ½ to 1½ tablespoons cold butter. For a perfectly smooth sauce, strain it through a finemesh sieve. If you’re ok with the shallots, serve as is. If possible, serve right away. to keep longer, transfer to a bowl set over a saucepan of hot water (no hotter than 110 degrees) or pour into a thermos to keep warm for up to 2 hours. — From “Modern Sauces” by Martha Holmberg (Chronicle Books, $35)

Technique: Beurre blanc this sauce is close to foolproof, but you do need to watch what’s happening in the pan. You’re trying to make an emulsion from the reduced liquid and the butter. If the sauce doesn’t appear to be thickening as you whisk in the butter, pull it from the heat, add another few drops of juice or vinegar, and start again — a bit slower this time. You can find more of Martha Holmberg’s versatile sauce recipes in her new book “Modern sauces” (chronicle books, $35)

november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


Ginger Caramel Sauce Makes 1½ cups

I prefer to use fresh ginger (rather than ground) in this sauce because its flavor is more complex: You get spicy heat, as you would with ground ginger, but you also get bright citrus notes. this sauce is delicious paired with anything with apples, especially a buttery apple bread pudding.

Technique: Caramel sauce here’s the only tricky part of caramel sauce: It’s hot. the sugar syrup will get lava-like, so have all your ingredients at the ready and pay attention, so you don’t accidentally slosh the contents of your pan. and do cook the sugar until it’s a nice deep amber, even edging toward dark copper. If the sugar doesn’t get cooked enough, the sauce will be a bit sweet and flat — but still tasty!

1 cup heavy cream 1½ tablespoons peeled and finely grated fresh ginger 1 cup granulated sugar ¼ cup water 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 ⁄8 teaspoon kosher salt In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the cream and ginger and bring just to a simmer over medium-high heat. Remove from the heat and let the cream infuse for 20 to 30 minutes. taste the cream, and if it isn’t gingery enough, let it sit for another few minutes. strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, pressing gently on the solids to extract the ginger flavor (press too hard and the cream will have a vegetal taste). In a medium, heavy saucepan, combine the sugar and water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring just until the sugar is moistened. Let the mixture boil, without stirring but with an occasional swirl of the pan, until it is a deep amber, smells like caramel, and you can see just the tiniest wisps of smoke, 9 to 12 minutes. the caramel will be very hot at this point. Remove the saucepan from the heat and carefully add a little bit of the ginger-infused cream; the caramel will bubble up furiously. Return the pan to low heat and whisk in the remaining cream a little at a time (to avoid bubbling over), then whisk in the butter and salt. continue to whisk until the sauce is very smooth, another minute or so. Remove the pan from the heat and let the sauce cool in the pan; it will thicken as it cools. serve warm or at room temperature. — From “Modern Sauces” by Martha Holmberg (Chronicle Books, $35)

 ONLINE EXTRA: Watch our video of Martha Holmberg making caramel and get her recipe for Buttery Apple Bread Pudding at MIXPdX.cOM 50

MIXpdX.coM november 2012

november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


Lime and Brown Butter Hollandaise Sauce Makes about 1 cup

Here, the butter flavor of the hollandaise is amplified thanks to browning. the butter develops a lovely nuttiness that tastes especially good in the sauce. this is a gorgeous partner for salmon or just about any kind of seafood or shellfish. It’s delicious on crab cakes, grilled chicken breasts and almost any vegetable, especially asparagus.


¾ cup unsalted butter 2 large egg yolks 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or more if needed ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon lightly packed finely grated lime zest dash of hot-pepper sauce such as sriracha

MIXpdX.coM november 2012

In a small, heavy saucepan or frying pan, melt the butter over medium heat. once the butter has melted, keep cooking it. It will sizzle and foam as the water cooks off. keep cooking, scraping the bottom of the pan with a heat-resistant rubber spatula or wooden spoon as the milk solids in the butter turn a light golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. once the butter becomes very fragrant and smells toasty, remove the pan from the heat and let the butter cool slightly.

pour water to a depth of 1 to 2 inches into the bottom of a medium saucepan and place over medium heat. Rest a medium stainless-steel bowl in the rim of the saucepan over (not touching) the water. put the egg yolks, lime juice and salt in the bowl and start whisking. as the bowl heats up, the yolks will begin to thicken. keep whisking vigorously, making sure to scrape around the sides of the bowl with a heat-resistant rubber spatula

from time to time so that little bits of yolk don’t get stuck to the sides and overcook. beat until the mixture is thick and frothy but not quite fluffy, about 3 to 4 minutes. the whisk will start leaving a clear space on the bottom of the bowl. Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk for another 30 seconds or so to stabilize the sauce and let the bowl cool down a bit. continue whisking as you slowly drizzle in the browned butter. unlike with classic hollandaise, go ahead and add all of the milk solids at the bottom of the pan. they carry most of the “browned” flavor. as you pour and whisk, make sure the yolks are accepting the butter and the yolks and butter are emulsifying together. If the sauce looks at all broken or curdled, stop adding butter and just whisk for a few seconds. Resume adding butter only after the sauce is once again smooth and creamy. once all of the butter has been added, whisk in the lime zest and hot-pepper sauce. taste and adjust seasoning with salt, lime juice or hot-pepper sauce, if needed. If possible, serve right away or keep warm in a double boiler over very low heat, or in a thermos, for up to 1 hour. — From “Modern Sauces” by Martha Holmberg (Chronicle Books, $35)





Technique: Hollandaise the key to proper hollandaise is to take your time and work over modest heat. If you get your yolks too hot, they will indeed become like scrambled eggs, and there’s no remedy for that. If you accidentally add too much butter, or add the butter too fast, there’s a fix for that: Just slowly whisk a tablespoon or so of cold water into the sauce, whisking in tight circles until you see that the mixture is beginning to re-emulsify.



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Join us for the 30th Anniversary of this unforgettable wine country tradition! More than 150 wineries and tasting rooms in the Willamette Valley will open their doors for special tastings and holiday festivities. Barrel taste with winemakers and sample new releases.Visit us online to request a map and a list of participating wineries. . Don’t miss a variety of activities this fall – a beautiful time to visit the Willamette Valley.

56 NOVEMBER 2012

get out Wine country fun without the crowds By raechel sims


hanksgiving weekend in Willamette wine country has become a vinous version of “Black Friday.” Well-meaning tourists arrive in droves to visit their favorite Oregon winemakers, some of which aren’t usually open to the public. But as anyone who’s made the post-Turkey-Day trek can tell you, the special access and festivities come with crowds, both on the road and in the tasting rooms. Turns out, you should go a week earlier, because that’s when the real magic happens. Those wishing to avoid the crowds and enjoy a more intimate setting — not to mention load up on delicious wine before Thanksgiving — can attend lovingly curated harvest celebrations, dinners and special releases the weekend before the holiday instead of after. Leave the party buses and standing-roomonly tasting bars to the masses. Nov. 17 and 18 prove that sometimes it’s more fashionable to be early than late. Here are our picks for the events you don’t want to miss.

Travel OregOn

Scott Paul WineS

128 S. Pine St., Carlton, 503-852-7300, Besides creating beautiful, Old World-style Oregon pinot noirs, winemaker Scott Wright of Scott Paul Wines also imports Burgundy and grower Champagne via his second venture, Scott Paul Selections. What better way to cleanse the palate after a day of pinot-centricity than with a flight of grower champagnes? For $20, guests will have the opportunity to taste five different bubbles from Wright’s portfolio of more than 25 producers, including Marc Chauvet and Francis Cossy. And for those wishing to stay the course with pinot, a Burgundy flight of four is available, including a sneak-peak of Scott Paul 2011 Audrey Pinot Noir, a small production of less than 200 cases, which won’t be released to the public until April. Audrey futures will be available for sale that day at a hearty discount. Accompanying all this delicious vino will be small bites curated by co-owner (and Scott’s wife) Martha Wright, featuring ingredients from Chop Butchery and Newman’s Fish Co.

november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


day trip, cont.

criStom Winery

beaux frèreS

Farther down the valley, Cristom Winery (below) will be hosting its second annual Harvest Celebration, a food-centric affair designed to provide inspiration for your holiday table. Harvest chef Peter Szymczak (formerly of Portland’s Vindalho and the former editor of Northwest Palate Magazine) will be teaming up with Ivy Manning, Portland food writer, cookbook author and MIX contributor, presenting a series of food stations paired with pours from Cristom’s seasonal tasting flight. “We want to offer some nontraditional ideas from outside of the ‘turkey-box,’ ” says Szymczak. Expect to see “alternative birds,” including pheasant, alongside samplings of local charcuterie. Included in the $25 charge is a small packet containing copies of the day’s recipes. Though the event is open to the public, reservations are strongly suggested.

It’s a family affair at Beaux Frères, as it eschews its typical appointment-only policy and flings its doors open to the public for the pre-holiday weekend. In addition to the 2010 Willamette Valley and Beaux Frères Vineyards Pinot Noir cuvées, guests will also have the chance to taste final blends for the unreleased 2011 vintage. Pouring alongside winemaker Michael Etzel will be sons Mike and Jared, introducing three bottles from their soon-to-bereleased Etzel Brothers label. The 2010 Coattails Pinot Noir is a micro-production cuvée of small, hillside vineyards from the Willamette Valley. The 2010 Horsetails Pinot Noir, an early-drinking, fruit-forward cuvée, is blended from acclaimed sites, such as the Broadley and Zena Crown vineyards. The 2010 Etzel Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon Lisa Chu Vineyard is a single-vineyard bottling from the legendary Mt. Veeder region of Napa Valley. Presented alongside Cougar Gold Cheeses, works from local artists and a “surprise Beaux Frères library selection,” the event is a steal at $20 per person, and sure to fill up early.

6905 Spring Valley Road N.W., Salem, 503-375-3068,

15155 N.E. North Valley Road, Newberg,

PhOTOgraPh By DOug BeghTel

Hillsboro area Restaurants Reedville Cafe

Syun Izakaya

A great place for family and friends to meet since 1950. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and happy hour daily. Terrific appetizers (like our famous Reedville Rings) and delicious desserts baked in-house.

The family-owned, award-winning place in Oregon for Japanese pubstyle dishes, top-notch sushi and sashimi, and superb sake.

7575 SE TV Hwy, Hillsboro OR 97123 503.649.4643 5 Sushi and Yuki Sake Bar Restaurant

At Yuki Sushi and Sake Bar Restaurant of Oregon, we make it a priority to give you the best sushi eating experience along with budget friendly prices.


To advertise please contact Staci Rizzo at 503.294.4022 or

1335 NE Orenco Station Parkway Hillsboro, OR 97124 503.430.5275


Yuki Sushi and Sake Bar Restaurant

209 NE Lincoln St. Hillsboro, OR 97214 503-640-3131

MIXpdX.coM november 2012

At Yuki Sushi and Sake Bar Restaurant of Oregon, we make it a

shop local ~ shop Hillsboro

four PickS for the big holiday Weekend A sucker for the traditional wine country weekend madness? Here are four post-Thanksgiving options offering a little something extra:

the four graces (above) pairs up with chef Carrie Wong of Extreme Chocolates to present a delectable offering of small bites to accompany the release of its 2010 Black Family Estate Pinot Noir, as well as its seasonal tasting flight. $20. 9605 N.E. Fox Farm Road, Dundee, 800-245-2950, Willamette valley vineyards will tap into its vast library to offer special pours enjoyed alongside cheeses and chocolates from local Oregon vendors. For an additional $5, guests can join winemakers in the cellar for barrel tasting. $20/$25, includes a souvenir wineglass. 8800 Enchanted Way S.E., Turner, 503-588-9463, bergström offers a whopping sevenwine flight paired with local breads and cheeses, highlighting the best pinots from both the 2010 and 2011 vintages. $15. 18215 N.E. Calkins Lane, Newberg, 503-554-0468, montinore estates seeks to sate your sweet tooth by offering Mimi’s French Market toffees alongside its seasonal flight. $5. 3663 S.W. Dilley Road, Forest Grove, 503-359-5012, £


O P E N D A I LY 1 0 A M - 5 P M


PhOTOgraPh By BeTh nakamura november 2012 MIXpdX.coM


calendar Our picks for what to do when COMPILED BY GRAnT BUTLER


NOV. 10: You’ll want to move fast during the

four-hour Northwest Food & Wine Festival. On hand are more than 600 Oregon and Washington wines, along with tastes of artisandistilled spirits and dishes from fine Portland restaurants. You can’t taste them all, so focus on a battle plan of a particular style of wine — pinot noir, perhaps?


NOV. 16: For fans of young red wine, one of the best days of the year is when the new release of beaujolais nouveau hits stores and restaurants. To celebrate, downtown’s Heathman Restaurant & Bar brings back its Beaujolais Nouveau Festival. It’s a benefit for the French-American Chamber of Commerce and the Alliance Français of Portland. In addition to the beaujolais, there will be wines from major producers in France and Oregon, plus several stations heaped with fabulous food.



NOV. 16-18: It’s olive harvest time, and Red Ridge Farms is celebrating with its Olio nuovo Fest. See firsthand how their olives are cold-pressed into fresh oil that has a spicier, grassier flavor than store-bought, and fill your own bottles to take home. During the weekend, local restaurants, including Paulée, will create special dishes and feature the oil on their menus.


NOV. 17: It’s your last chance to visit


NOV. 2-10: It’s hard to imagine anyone more fiendish than serial seducer “Don Giovanni,” the rogue at the heart of Mozart’s perfect opera of lust, intrigue and murder, which Portland Opera is presenting. From the opening notes to the finale in which the Don gets his just reward, there’s never a dull moment.

the regular season of the Beaverton Farmers Market, just in time for picking up baking pumpkins, northwest cranberries and other things you’ll need for Thanksgiving dinner. But you won’t have to wait until next May for the market’s return. In 2013, there will be winter editions of the market from February through April.





NOV. 17-18: Looking for a perfect bottle to take to Thanksgiving dinner? The Southeast Wine Collective kicks off its first Urban Thanksgiving event featuring the latest releases from Vincent Wine Co., Bow & Arrow Wines, Helioterra Wines, and Division Winemaking Co.. The collective is the latest addition to Southeast Division’s white-hot food and drink scene. Be there to catch its holiday debut.

Starlight Viewing Deck Captain’s Wheelhouse THAnKS FOR RUnnInG

NOV. 22: It’s a day for feasting and counting blessings, and you can kick it off by helping others — and burning calories. At Sherwood’s Give N’ Gobble, there are 5K and 10K runs that raise funds for Helping Hands, a local food bank affiliated with the Oregon Food Bank. At Washington Park, there’s the four-mile Turkey Trot to raise funds for the Oregon Zoo. Both are bright and early, leaving you the rest of the day for stuffing, mashed potatoes and gravy.

On Board Galley

Fully Enclosed Climate Controlled Decks

Freshly Prepared Food

Let’s Celebrate

Lunch - Brunch - Dinner - Sightseeing

Local family owned since 1994


NOV. 23-25: A holiday tradition continues with the return of Wine Country Thanksgiving. Throughout the Willamette Valley, more than 150 wineries are offering tastes of new releases along with gourmet food pairings and live music. Plan an itinerary focusing on just three or four places, culminating someplace tasty, like downtown McMinnville, where delicious dining options abound.

October 12, 2012 – January 6, 2013


NOV. 24: Experience the musical

Magic of Disney with a special Oregon Symphony concert of favorite songs from classic and animated films. Included are songs from “Little Mermaid,” “Beauty and the Beast,” “Aladdin,” “Mary Poppins” and “The Lion King.” While four leading vocalists interpret the songs, snippets from the films will be projected over the stage. Magic, indeed! £


Presented by





A big heart takes on an immense need By Janet Filips

It’s a Wednesday afternoon, and a regular volunteer has pedaled her bike from the Portland Farmers Market to Urban Gleaners’ Old Town office to deliver that day’s catch: huge plastic bags brimming with gorgeous vegetables, wood-fired bagels and pita bread. On Thursday, the glossy vegetables will be tucked into boxes — along with bagels, breads, pastries and other rescued foods — and delivered to several of the high-poverty public elementary schools in the nonprofit’s Food for Schools program, which sends students home with quality foods that otherwise would have been thrown out. Tracy Oseran, 59, cannot stomach the idea of anyone being hungry — especially not children. Founding and building her food rescue organization is her midlife mission. She even created a separate company to produce Tracy’s Small-Batch Granola, a gourmet blend sold at upscale markets, and plows all the profits back into Urban Gleaners. There are 11 metro-area schools in the Food for Schools program (and a heartbreaking waiting list), and the nonprofit distributes food to eight other local agencies, including Blanchet House. The need is immense, but Tracy Oseran’s holiday wish list is short: food donors, volunteers and money. She recently took a break to tell us more about herself and her nonprofit. Q: In 2006, while in your car, you caught an nPr interview with a woman who’d started a food rescue program in Cambridge, mass. When you found out Portland had nothing like it, you started Urban Gleaners. Is that right? A. Yes. I love food, I love to cook, the whole thing. Then hearing this radio program, it was mind-boggling. I just wasn’t thinking about where that food goes, and neither was this woman. That’s what she talks about, about being hit over

10,000: pounds of food tracy Oseran picked up in 2006, the year she started Urban Gleaners

575,000: pounds of food Urban

Gleaners volunteers picked up in 2011

$30,000: profits in 2011 from tracy’s small-Batch Granola, donated to Urban Gleaners $105,000: Urban Gleaners’ budget 11: elementary schools in Urban

Gleaners’ Food to schools program

70-90: percent of those students living below the poverty line the head: There were all these people out there hungry, and there’s all this food that gets thrown away, and it gets thrown into landfills and turns into methane. And so she started collecting the food. And I went home, and I told my kids, who I think were 13 and 15 at the time, and they were like, “Oh, Mom.” I said, “We’re going to do this! It’s ridiculous it isn’t being done!” Q: Was this out of character or right in line? A. I’m a ’60s kid, and this is what I believe in, that people should do things for each other. I just read an interview of Neil Young, and he said, “We were going to change the world, and, wow, we almost did.” Where did that go? I feel like that didn’t really pan out. Q: I’d like to hear an amazing gleaning story. A: We got Feast leftovers. (The Feast

Portland festival, held in September, celebrated Oregon’s foods and benefited Partners for a Hunger Free Oregon and Share Our Strength.) We picked up a huge load and took it out to Cherry Park Elementary. It was great. Everybody got lots of food. They donated dozens of eggs, cheese and butter. … sandwiches, and roasted chili peppers, and lots of produce. Q: And an example of the need at the schools? A: Well, then we got an email from Kate Barker, the Cherry Park principal, that all the food from their normal delivery was gone, but a boy had just come into her office, crying. All he had were saltine crackers and peanut butter to eat at his house for days. Could we please put together a food box for him? He had gone to the cafeteria for breakfast and lunch that day, had gone back for thirds, and was stuffing food in his pockets to take home. Q: You grew up in beverly Hills, the daughter of a Tv director. I just have to ask about that. A: My dad was a great guy. He directed Jack Benny, Red Skelton, “Gunsmoke” — early TV. I don’t think my father would have cared about the Kardashians. His father — my grandfather — was a socialist. He gave me a leather-bound copy of “Das Kapital” for my 16th birthday. My parents were friends mostly with writers, directors and producers. It was very, very funny in our house. They were hilarious. Urban Gleaners: 503-226-8061, £ pHOtOGRapH By MOtOya naKaMURa

 ONLINE EXTRA: Read the full interview at mIXpDX.cOm 60

MIXpdX.coM november 2012


Named after the Holiday star, Stella Artois was first brewed as a holiday beer as a gift to the people of Leuven, Belgium. A golden lager in contrast to the popular dark ales of the time, its brilliant amber color illuminated holiday celebrations for generations thereafter. “Artois” acknowledges Sebastian Artois, the master brewer and owner of the brewer y. Always Enjoy Responsibly.

© 2012 Anheuser-Busch InBev S.A., Stella Artois® Beer, Imported by Import Brands Alliance, St. Louis, MO

Largest buffet in Oregon.

7 action stations: International, Pizza, Seafood, Carving, American, Asian, Bakery. Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner specialties. Beer and Wine available. Incredible Sunday Brunch. Check website for specials, hours and prices.

Hwy 18 • Grand Ronde, OR • SPIRITMOUNTAIN.COM

Profile for Mix Magazine

MIX Magazine November 2012  

Eat • Drink • Get Out • Get Together

MIX Magazine November 2012  

Eat • Drink • Get Out • Get Together