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November N ovember vember ‘10 ’10 ’10 10 P Portland’s ortlands nd’s M Mag Magazine agazin azine of of F Food ood + Drink Drink

Our special issue on holiday cooking

SO MANY REASONS TO HAVE PEOPLE OVER A Chaos Chaos Free Free Thanksgiving Thanksgiving œ Big Big R Roasts oasts œ Meatless, Meatless, F Fabulous abulous Lots o hocolate D esserts œ Oregon Lots off C Chocolate Desserts Oregon Wines Wines for for Holiday Holiday Drinking Drinking

NOVEMBER 2010

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contributors Grilling local bartenders on the tools, books and spirits every home bartender should have, for this month’s MIXmaster column, had freelance writer ashley Gartland itching to get back to bar basics. Gartland regularly covers Portland’s cocktail scene for MIX and also writes for the Chefs’ Recipes edition of the epicurean website Tasting Table. Gartland’s work has also appeared in Saveur and Runner’s World and will hit bookstore shelves next year when her first cookbook, “Dishing Up Oregon,� is released. Page 67

Thanksgiving brings a mishmash of dishes together with a motley assortment of friends and relatives. With the help of some local wine experts, katherine cole found five locally sourced wines that will complement whatever is on your holiday table while pleasing the pickiest palates. Cole is wine columnist for MIX and The Oregonian; her book on biodynamic winegrowing will be published next spring by Oregon State University Press. Page 61.

OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Grant Butler, Martha holMBerG



         

         *       

4

Thanksgiving for ivy Manning isn’t just a holiday; it’s a benchmark in her life as a culinarian. She cooked her first solo Thanksgiving meal at 13, and she’s been obsessed with mashed potatoes and gravy ever since. When she’s not mashing or gravying, Manning writes about food for The Oregonian, Bon AppÊtit and Cooking Light. This year she’s giving thanks for a newly remodeled kitchen and her husband, Gregor, who does all the dishes in exchange for extra chanterelle stuffing. Page 14.

      

        



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so many reasons to have people over


The Enter taining Issue

I cook almost every day. I sit at a nice table with my family or friends almost every day. I drink wine every day (notice I didn’t say “almost” that time). But what I do only a couple of times a year is feast. Feasting can mean different things to different people, depending on how you normally live your cooking and eating life, but it always means somehow stepping it up. That could involve cooking a few more dishes, maybe some fancier dishes, or just taking a risk or two in terms of kitchen challenges. We’ve got lots of recipes to help you do just that, along with advice on planning both the eating side and the drinking side. But feasting isn’t just about food; it means creating an entire experience. Switching from paper napkins to cloth ones counts, if that’s a big step for you; but so does picking out cool and beautiful dishes, finding greenery and flowers from your yard or the florist, choosing music, thinking about how the drinks will work with the eats. In other words, it’s about being gracious and generous and making sure that everything feels special. And yes, all that takes a lot of time and energy (which is why you need to start making lists right now! See Page 14 for guidance). But with “feast” as your mantra, you can turn what normally feels like pressure into excitement instead. Celebrate the process (OK, the work), so that you and your friends and family can truly celebrate the season.

Martha Holmberg, editor mix.martha.holmberg@gmail.com On THe COver: Puff pastry-wrapped Beet Wellingtons. PHOTOgrAPH By MOTOyA nAKAMurA

calendar for november

10

an obsessive’s guide to a fabulous and sane thanksgiving dinner

14

holidays are for herbivores

25

a holiday meal needs a roast

35

savor these relishes

43

rockin’ the chocolate

49

northwest wines for a foolproof thanksgiving dinner

61

cocktails: back to bar basics

67

leFT: PHOTOgrAPH By MIKe dAvIS

 MIX is now 10 issues a year! It’s easy to subscribe online — go to MIXpdX.coM and click on “subscribe.” You

can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixpdx.com, so get clicking and start eating.


AP PHoTo

Enter taining

10

calEndar

november Nov. 2-4

Nov. 6-7

Dinners make a difference

A whole lotta java

Supporting local charities should always be this tasty. In advance of next spring’s Classic Wine Auction, 12 chefs and 20 wineries team up for the Winemaker Dinner Series. Standouts in the lineup include metrovino with bethel Heights vineyard, DoC with Apolloni vineyards and Genoa with et Fille and evening Land vineyards. Seats are $150. classicwinesauction.com

Fuel your caffeine addiction at the World Forestry Center’s Coffee Fair, which explores the art of espresso and lattes. Learn about specialty coffees from around the globe from knowledgeable local roasters as well as how to brew the perfect cup of coffee at home. worldforestry.org

Nov. 5-13

Nov. 13

New year, new beginnings

Sip, savor, repeat

In India, Diwali — also known as the Festival of Lights — celebrates the triumph of good over evil and the start of a new financial year, and is observed by exchanges of sweets and snacks with loved ones. At Portland’s east India Co. Grill & bar, it’s the inspiration for a special $22 tasting menu featuring classic dishes and desserts. eastindiacopdx.com

There are a lot of food and wine bacchanalias throughout the year, but the Northwest Food & Wine Festival offers some of the most expansive tasting opportunities, with more than 600 oregon and Washington wines poured, plus food from restaurants such as The Heathman, Country Cat, Urban Farmer and Wildwood. nwwinefestival.com

Nov. 5-13

Grimm and bear it What’s not to like about the food-centric opera “Hansel and Gretel,” which has a witch who’s part maniac, part Julia Child? oK, perhaps her recipes for baked sweets aren’t for the squeamish, but the music is delicious. Discuss it over dessert afterward at Pix Patisserie. portlandopera.org pixpatisserie.com

Nov. 15

What’s in those mystery cartons? If you get takeout often, chances are good some science experiments lurk in the back of your refrigerator. Since today is National Clean out Your Refrigerator Day, it’s time to toss out anything that you can’t remember the origins of — or anything that’s sporting fuzz. That will free up space for the next batch of takeout leftovers you’ll pick up on nov. 16 — national Fast Food Day.


Nov. 19

Nov. 26

An eye for pie

Twinkle, twinkle holiday star

Thanksgiving is next week, and this is the deadline for special orders for holiday pies at most bakeries around town. Two standouts are random order’s pumpkin pie that’s laced with bourbon, and bipartisan Cafe’s stellar pecan pie. Delay ordering, and you may have to settle for a grocery store pie, or bake your own from scratch. randomordercoffee.com bipartisancafe.com

Work yourself out of your turkey coma by getting out for the biggest shopping day of the year, which culminates downtown with the annual lighting of the 75-foot tree in Pioneer Courthouse Square. For the best view — and some tasty cocktails — reserve a table at the southwest corner of Departure restaurant, which overlooks the square. pioneercourthousesquare.org departureportland.com

Nov. 19

Nov. 26-28

It’s here!

A holiday in your glass

For beaujolais nouveau fans, the wait is over with the official arrival of this year’s vintage of easy-drinking French red wine. What better way to celebrate than with The Heathman restaurant’s annual “Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est ArrivĂŠ!â€? dinner and auction? The $70 event benefits the nonprofit missions of the French American Chamber of Commerce and the Alliance Française de Portland, and features an array of seafood, charcuterie, cheese and roasted pork.

Thanksgiving weekend is one of the two times a year that most small oregon wineries have open houses as part of the Wine Country Thanksgiving celebration. more than 150 wineries participate, with most offering new releases for tasting, as well as food pairings and live music. eager to find unique bottles of pinot noir for Christmas giving? Here’s your chance. willamettewines.com

Nov. 25

Give thanks with your feet A televised parade. Football. And an elaborate meal. If that’s what Thanksgiving means to you, consider adding the Give N’ Gobble 5K and 10K fun run/walk to your itinerary. It’s a benefit for Helping Hands, a Sherwood food bank that’s affiliated with the oregon Food bank. What better way to give thanks?

Nov. 27

Macaron madness! As cookies go, the French macaron is practically a party in itself. So it makes sense that Pix throws a party in honor of them with La Fête du Macaron, featuring more than 30 flavors, including unusual ones such as olive oil and sea salt-caramel. There’s also chocolate-covered macarons on a stick, and temporary macaron tattoos. pixpatisserie.com £



              

                    

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SE 16th Ave

Sellwood neighborhood

3

6

9

SE Bybee

Blvd

7

Farmhouse Antiques

4

SE Rural St

Well-chosen • Antiques • Art and • Curiosities

Sellwood’s favorite mini-mall! - Vintage jewelry - Hats - Furniture - Cast Iron - Glassware - Pottery - Postcards - Holiday decor – And more! Always buying - 7 dealers. Open daily 11-5.

7805 SE 13th Avenue 503.233.3731

8028 SE 13th Avenue 503.232-6757

d Blv d o

o llw e ES

S

Madison M di P Parkk A Antiques t

SE Rex St

SE Malden St SE Lambert St 3

SE Milwaukie Ave

SE 13th Ave

SE Knapp St

4

SE Bidwell St

CoCo Gets

2

1

▲ N

SE Lexington St 10

Dressed

SE Miller St

SE Spokane St

13

5

1

SE Harney St 1

Cravin’ Raven Enriching Sellwood’s status as a healthy-living hub is Cravin’ Raven Organic Bakery, the place that proves you don’t have to use white flour, white sugar, or butter to make delectable treats. Try our healthy and delicious assortment of muffins, cookies, cakes, and assorted treats, all organic and sweetened with agave nectar. Specializing in Gluten options. Catering Available. 8339 SE 13th Avenue 503-234-0603 www.cravinraven.com

SE 17th Ave

11

8

Phenomenal Fall fashions have arrived! Rich colors, grays, blacks and whites along with new scarves and jackets. Always fashion-forward, comfortable and easy care. Awardwinning jewelry artists and the finest collection of HOBO handbags, wallets and clutches reside here too! We’re not teasing when we say, “CoCo Gets Dressed has clothing that tickles your soul.”

We’ve moved . . . but not far! Join us at our new location in Westmoreland - 7011 SE Milwaukie Ave, right next door to our sister store CoCo Gets Dressed. Still the same charming shop with many treasures straight from the streets of Paris. Come see us in our new fabulous home!

6

SE Tacoma St

7

2

7011 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.5999

12

2

7007 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.7777 8

5

El Palenque Home to Portland’s finest traditional Mexican and Salvadoran cuisine since 1989. Family-owned and operated, we take great delight in offering our guests delicious meals made from only the freshest and finest ingredients, which we lovingly prepare by hand each day. Many of our menu items come from secret family recipes handed down over several generations. We are proud of our culture and pleased to share taste of it with you. Open Daily. 8323 SE 17th Avenue 503.231.5140 www.elpalenque.org

Sellwood Marketplace

Now open in Sellwood! Framed Art Studios is: - an independent local shop - full of unique and crazy fun designs - committed to making you smile - a must on your list of to-do’s! We offer custom picture framing, local art, antiques, and photo-restoration. Same locations as Designing Women. 8237 SE 17th Avenue 503.493.2880 www.framedartstudios.com

Please Be Seated Please be seated is the unmistakable destination for home decor and beautiful gifts. Featuring fine table linens, dinnerware, bed, bath, furniture, plus unique and unusual finds for your home or office. Stop in and experience the gracious art of living. 8309 SE 13th Avenue 503.595.1736


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9

Moreland Vision Source Serving all those seeking a better life with their dogs, cats.

Come check out our exclusive optical gallery featuring hand-painted stain glass eyewear from Studio3 Occhiali Eyewear imported from Italy. We also carry famous designer eyewear such as Gucci, Liz Claiborne, Silhouette, Prodesign, Lafont, Calvin Klien and Sean John, just to name a few. Stop by and check us out!

We strive to provide your dog with natural food, outdoor wear, toys, treats, beds. Find surprises at every turn for both you and your dog. Hours: Mon – Fri 9am – 7pm, Sat 9am – 6pm, Sun 11am – 5pm 8334 SE 17th Avenue 503.239.1517 www.sellwooddogsupply.com

Hours: Mon-Fri 8:30 - 5:30 6539 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.6008 www.visionsource-moreland.com

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Finds Old & New Finds Old & New offers a charming blend of old, very old, and not so old, treasures. Specializing in: • Vintage & artisan jewelry • Asian antiques • Furniture • Unique & eclectic finds We buy and welcome consignments. Open Tuesday to Sunday

Justin & Burks Visit us at our new location just three doors down. Unique antiques, home decor, & custom lighting.

A Special Holiday Concert!

Mon Dec 6 | 7:30 pm

Hours: Tue-Sat 11-5, Sun 12-4 8317 SE 13th Avenue 503.234.6414

7907 SE 13th Avenue 503.235.0852 11

Christmas music as it’s never been heard before, with unique tonal textures, hot solos and tight ensemble arrangements.

Carlos Kalmar, conductor Béla and his band, the Flecktones, will join forces with the full orchestra for a special holiday concert. Real Deals is a locally-owned mom & pop shop with the latest in both contemporary and traditional home décor. Our wide array of clocks, wall art, mirrors, signs, candles, floral, lamps and furniture are priced well below what consumers are used to paying, and our shopping experience will “wow” you! Open Thursdays & Saturdays 10-5.

Call: 503-228-1353 Click: OrSymphony.org Ticket ofce: 923 SW Washington

| 10 am – 6 pm Mon – Fri

Groups of 10 or more save: 503-416-6380

1657 SE Tacoma Street Portland, OR 97202 503-206-7450 www.realdeals.net

ARLENE SCHNITZER CONCERT HALL

To advertise in Marketplace contact Jeff Brosy at 503.221.8320 or jeffb@sales.oregonian.com

SW MAIN & BR OAD WAY · POR T LAN D CEN T ER FOR T HE PERFORMIN G ART S

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14


Enter taining

prEp

An obsessive’s guide to A fAbulous And sAne thAnksgiving (or Any other big holidAy) dinner The k ey to c o o king a n e la b ora t e holiday mea l w it h o ut

photograph by mike davis

h avi ng a ner vous b re a k do w n ?

it’s not every day we wrestle with a 20-pound bird, peel pounds of potatoes, juggle a multitude of side dishes and bake one to three pies. Add the formal table settings (or at least napkins that match) and a house full of relatives and thanksgiving just might send the best cook bolting into the broom closet for a little breakdown. that’s one way of looking at things, but not my way. i assure you there’s another, more pleasurable route that can keep the holiday from becoming a nightmare. the key is to be just a touch obsessive about

! S T L IS

em h t f o s t Lo

.

15

organization and advance planning, slowing down and stretching out the preparations into a week of small tasks completed at a purposeful but leisurely pace. instead of one frenetic, exhausting, accident-prone day of cooking, you set aside an hour or two on the days leading up to it to get a big head start. here are my five pieces of advice that will help you whether it’s your first thanksgiving or you’re an old pro. i’m including some of my tried-and-true do-ahead recipes as well, to equip you for total thanksgiving success.

by ivy MAnning


1.Write lists the most valuable cooking skill i ever learned as a line cook was list-writing. by writing out the multiple dishes and the elements related to each of them, i learned how to juggle a lot of dishes at once. For the holidays, i write a Chore List with all the tasks i need to accomplish during the days leading up to the big meal. For example, about three weeks before the event i’ll plan to roast bones and vegetables to make turkey stock and turn the turkey stock into gravy. the monday evening before thanksgiving is set aside for cubing bread for stuffing. the day before the feast i make time to iron the tablecloth. making a list allows you to see and keep track of exactly how much

16

you have to do and helps you divide the tasks among many days. everything gets done in plenty of time, and you get the satisfaction of crossing things off your list. you don’t need me to tell you that a list is essential for grocery shopping, but there’s a trick to making the list even more handy: organize it by department, in the order you tend to roll through the store. yes, that’s control-freakish, but it’ll save you from having to waste time zigzagging through a market clogged with other shoppers, and it helps prevent trips back to the store for forgotten items. and then there’s the big day list, my hourby-hour, minute-by-minute timeline, so that i can be sure everything gets out of the fridge, into the oven and onto the table at the right time, so there’s no smoldering pans of burned stuffing, no forlorn side dish forgotten in the corner or, worse yet, a turkey that’s not done until midnight.

i do all the math in advance and outline what goes into the oven, onto the stove or out of the fridge so all i have to do is glance at the list and read: “3:45 take turkey out of refrigerator; 4:45 put turkey in oven.” the big day list allows me to execute the feasts’ chores without thinking — or stressing — so i can pour wine, nibble nuts and chat with guests. in the same obsessively methodical vein, i organize and label the serving dishes, utensils and tableware the night before. i set them all out and put a sticky on each one with the name of the dish. When it’s time for serving, i just grab the dish i need off the table without having to dig around in the sideboard for a bowl big enough to hold all the mashed potatoes or tear apart the silverware drawer at the last minute looking for the pie spatula. and that way my table can look exactly the way i want it to — showcasing all the hard work i’ve done in the kitchen and making the meal a true celebration.


3.CheAt 2.Cook in AdvAnCe it’s as predictable as the rising of the sun: your kitchen, no matter what the size, will draw your guests in. as you’re working slavishly to lift the turkey out of the roasting pan, defat the pan drippings and make all the side dishes, you’ll have people chatting away, asking you how work is and offering half-heartedly to help. since you probably can’t keep your guests out of the kitchen, it makes sense to have as much of the meal done in advance as is humanly possible. thankfully, many components of the meal can be made ahead, from the turkey stock and gravy to the mashed potatoes and cranberry sauce. you can even tackle the stuffing up to two days ahead and have it ready to go in a baking dish in the fridge — the flavor will be better for it. as for vegetable side dishes, i’ve included a quick list of delicious options you can prep ahead and finish quickly while the turkey is resting. to reheat dishes without taking up valuable real estate on the stove, get creative about employing your other appliances. i use my toaster oven to keep dinner plates warm, my microwave to reheat smaller side dishes such as succotash, and my rice cooker (set on warm) to keep the gravy hot.

part of being a great cook is being a great shopper — and by that i don’t just mean knowing how to pick the ripest produce or most flavorful meats. you can use your well-honed palate to pick high-quality premade components and take the pressure off cooking the entire feast yourself. i am lousy pie crust maker, but i do make a mean fresh roasted squash filling for pumpkin pie. so instead of serving a pie with a great filling and a lousy crust, i use a good quality premade pie crust. When folks are focused on how good the homemade part of the pie is they tend not to notice that the crust isn’t from my own hands. if you’re not great at making stuffing or creamed spinach or any of the other zillion dishes that you are expected to master — or simply don’t have the time and fridge space to make the dishes ahead — try prepared versions from delis or restaurants before the big day. When you find a product or two you love, go ahead and serve them, perhaps adding freshly grated cheese or chopped fresh herbs to freshen them up and make them your own. hide the evidence, er, packaging and don’t mention to a soul that you’ve taken a few shortcuts. homemade everything isn’t as important as actually enjoying your time with family and friends.

1.

Five more Ways to Cheat:

appetizers don’t have to be time-consuming to be special. Use marinated olives from the grocery store (warm them a bit in the oven), serve precut vegetables on a platter from the deli, and consider trying premade cocktail mixes to free up more of your time.

2.

if it’s the roast turkey, ham or beef that scares you, order it from a gourmet deli or supermarket and focus your time on homemade side dishes instead. Just sprinkle the meat with stock, cover with foil and rewarm in the oven.

3.

gravy, though easy with our recipe, can cause some cooks much anxiety. buy good-quality gravy from a market or restaurant, add some turkey pan drippings and fresh thyme or parsley, and call it yours.

4.

some stores offer peeled potatoes and yams during the holidays; all you have to do is boil and mash them.

5.

With so many great bakeries in town, pies and rolls are an easy cheat, especially for those who really don’t enjoy baking. Just order them in advance so you’re sure to get what you want before they sell out.

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Chore List About three weeks before the dinner: order your turkey, ham or roast from your butcher, if applicable. make enough turkey stock to use for gravy and for the stuffing. make the gravy and freeze, along with the remaining stock for the stuffing. The Sunday before: shop for your ingredients, including the turkey if frozen. save the very fresh and tender things (lettuce and green beans, for example) for later. purchase wine. make cranberry relish. roast appetizer nuts and keep them in airtight container. Monday: if using a frozen turkey, start defrosting in refrigerator. Cut up bread for stuffing and let it air dry on baking sheets. defrost chicken stock for stuffing overnight in the fridge.

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Tuesday: pick up turkey, if fresh. buy fresh produce — green beans, brussels sprouts, fresh herbs. make stuffing. make mashed potatoes and/or yams. make roasted squash filling for pie recipe. make pie dough, if applicable. Write the big day List, including doing the math to figure out when the turkey should go into the oven to be ready for your target dinnertime. it takes about 15 minutes to roast a pound of turkey at 325 to 350 degrees, so a 16-pound turkey takes an average of 4 hours to cook. add an additional 5 to 7 minutes per pound if the bird is stuffed. Wednesday: make vegetable side dishes, or prep them so they’re ready to cook at the last minute: Chop vegetables and measure other components and keep them in sealed bags and containers in the fridge. blanch any vegetables you plan to sauté just before serving, such as green beans or kale. defrost turkey gravy overnight in refrigerator. make appetizers such as dips and spreads. store in airtight containers. bake pumpkin pie and refrigerate overnight. take out serving dishes and place a label on each one to remind you of what goes in it. arrange plates, dishes and utensils on dining table, if possible. polish wineglasses. iron tablecloth. set table. pick up centerpiece, if applicable. Thursday: see big day List

4. splurge Where it MAtters the holidays are special because they happen only once a year, so it’s easy to think we have to pull out all the stops and drop a small fortune at the supermarket. but you don’t need to blow your budget to add a few simple indulgences to make the menu extra-special. splurging can be as simple as buying imported, cultured butter to highlight your golden, flaky dinner rolls, or spending a little extra on a small bottle of top-shelf extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling. are your mashed potatoes the stuff dreams are made of? try them with a wisp of white truffle oil. and if you have your eye on something pricey (wine is always a potential budget-buster), find ways to cut back on other parts of the meal. you can scale the menu back a bit, avoid prepackaged ingredients and shop the sales.

Five more spLUrgeWorthy ingredients:

1.

Poultry demi-glace: the rich flavor is incomparable to regular old chicken broth, and a little goes a long way. Use diluted demiglace to moisten stuffing or make gravy.

2.

Specialty sea salt: visit a gourmet store to select a special finishing salt just for your meal. or purchase truffle or porcini salt to add earthy dimension to stuffing, gravy or even green bean casserole.

3.

Chanterelles: if you have a dish that incorporates mushrooms, go all-out and get local chanterelles instead of plain old buttons. it is fall in the pacific northwest, after all.

4.

Gourmet cheese: skip the frozen miniquiches. a well-thought-out selection of highend cheeses is so impressive and can satisfy so many palates, it can pretty much stand on its own as an appetizer. Just add fruit and crackers.

5.

Champagne: real-deal Champagne, not cheap sparkling wine, is pricey stuff but nothing sets a more celebratory tone. besides, it can go with every element of the meal, from the appetizers to the dessert.


Big Day List this list is based on a 16-pound bird, so be sure to adjust times according to how big or small your bird is. remember, it takes about 15 minutes to roast a pound of turkey at 325 to 350 degrees, and you’ll need to pull the bird out of the fridge 1 hour before cooking and let it rest for 30 minutes after cooking.

5.eMbrACe the rituAl a lot of what i love about thanksgiving is the sweet anticipation of caring for people i love by feeding them. it’s a holiday that means a lot to me, so i give myself plenty of time to enjoy and relish the rituals that lead up to it. it all begins about a month before the actual holiday, with the arrival of the november issues of cooking magazines. i flip through them to whet my appetite, folding back pages and writing out a possible menu i’ll likely never cook. after the magazines, i invariably turn to my favorite cookbooks, paging through them in the evenings like old scrapbooks. on weekends, i start scouting the farmers markets for the best squashes for pies, and begin auditioning brussels sprouts from different farms to find the sweetest specimens. then there is the list writing and shopping, the folding of napkins late at night, the polishing of the “good” plates and silverware. all these little rituals make the actual day not only relatively calm, but also more meaningful.

5 hours before dinner: heat oven and bake any remaining pies, if applicable. take turkey out of refrigerator and place it in roasting pan so it can sit for 30 minutes to 1 hour at room temperature. set out butter in serving dish. refrigerate salad plates, if applicable. 4 hours before dinner: increase oven temperature to 425 degrees (if roasting at higher temperature for first 30 minutes). begin roasting turkey, reduce heat to 325 degrees after 30 minutes of cooking. Whip cream to serve with pies, if applicable, and refrigerate. 1½ hours before dinner: place mashed potatoes in slow cooker. set out ingredients for vegetable side dishes, grouped by dish on counter so you can grab them quickly when reheating/sautéeing. 1 hour before dinner: place stuffing in oven, covered with foil. set out cranberry sauce, butter and pickles (if using). Wrap rolls or bread in foil. 30 minutes before dinner: When an instant-read thermometer registers 165 degrees when inserted into the meaty part of the thigh, remove the turkey from oven and transfer to a cutting board. Let it rest for 30 minutes to let juices settle. strain drippings and skim off fat (see gravy recipe). Combine drippings and gravy in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer, season to taste and keep warm over low heat. Uncover stuffing. place rolls/bread in oven. 15 minutes before: Warm dinner plates, if desired, in oven or toaster oven. reheat side dishes in microwave, where applicable. Cover and keep in a warm place. 10 minutes before dinner: sauté vegetable side dishes, cover and keep in warm place. enlist help to pour the wine. 5 minutes before dinner: remove stuffing and rolls from oven. enlist help to place warm plates, rolls and side dishes on table. reduce oven to 300 degrees; place pumpkin pie in oven to rewarm, if desired. Carve turkey. pour accumulated juices on cutting board over sliced meat. 30 seconds before dinner: sit down. Unfold your napkin in your lap. relax. say thanks, especially for lists.

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reCipes

503 234 1614

825 NE Multnomah, Suite 280 Lloyd Center Tower across from the Nordstrom’s skybridge

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do-ahead trUFFLed mashed potatoes serves 8

boiling the potatoes with their skins on keeps them from becoming waterlogged during cooking, so be sure to choose small potatoes that are all the same size so they will cook quickly and evenly. if you can find only larger yellow potatoes, cut them into 2- to 3-inch pieces before cooking and cut back on the cream by about ½ cup because they’ll have absorbed more moisture. to free up room on your stove and in your oven, reheat the mashed potatoes in a slow cooker or the microwave. 2 cups half-and-half (divided) 1 bay leaf 1 medium garlic clove, peeled and halved 3 pounds yukon gold potatoes, 2 to 3 inches long, scrubbed and left whole 1½ tablespoons salt, plus more for seasoning 5 tablespoons butter, melted

in a small saucepan combine 1½ cups of the half-andhalf, bay leaf and garlic clove. heat over low heat until hot; do not boil. set aside. meanwhile, place the potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water. bring to a boil over high heat and add the salt. reduce heat and simmer (don’t boil, or the potatoes will break apart) until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a skewer, about 35 minutes. strain the potatoes through a colander and allow to cool for 10 minutes. push the potatoes through a potato ricer, food mill or sieve into the pot used to cook them. stir in the butter with a wooden spoon. remove the bay leaf and garlic from the half-and-half and discard. stir the half-and-half into the potatoes and season to taste. refrigerate uncovered until completely cool. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to two days. on the big day: about 1½ hours before you are ready to serve the mashed potatoes, spray the insert of a slow cooker with olive oil cooking spray. transfer the cold mashed potatoes to the slow cooker, stir in remaining cream, and set on low heat (see note). stir once or twice while the potatoes are reheating. the potatoes can be held on the low or warm setting once hot for up to 2 hours. alternatively, transfer the potatoes to a microwave-safe serving dish and microwave until heated through, stirring once during cooking.

olive oil cooking spray

stir the truffle oil into the mashed potatoes immediately before serving.

1 tablespoon white truffle oil (use a good quality one, such as Jack Czarnecki’s)

Note: older slow cookers run about 25 degrees cooler than newer models, so add an additional 20 minutes if you’re using your old harvest gold crockpot.


some fresh iDeas for Do-aheaD veggies you Can CompLete anD reheat Before the giBLets hit the fan. Spiced Red Cabbage: sauté thinly sliced cabbage and tart apples in olive oil. add caraway, red wine vinegar and a pinch of sugar; cook until soft. microwave or heat in a sauté pan to reheat. Roasted Beets With Orange Zest and Pecans: roast whole beets in foil, peel, slice and toss with orange zest, walnut oil and balsamic vinegar. reheat in a microwave and toss with toasted pecan pieces.

make-ahead tUrkey gravy makes 5 to 6 CUps

good gravy starts with flavorful stock, and the secret to flavorful stock is roasting the bones and vegetables first and using chicken broth instead of water. the gravy can be made a few days in advance or frozen for up to three months. add some of the turkey pan drippings to the gravy right before serving to make it even richer. 3 pounds turkey drumsticks or wings 2 ribs celery, cut into 2-inch lengths 2 medium carrots cut into 2-inch lengths 6 large cloves garlic, unpeeled 6 sprigs fresh thyme 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 bay leaf 1 large onion, chopped 8 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 cup cold water 1 cup dry white wine ½ cup all-purpose flour salt and freshly ground pepper

heat the oven to 425 degrees. Combine the turkey, celery, carrots, garlic and thyme in a large roasting pan. toss with the olive oil and roast, stirring occasionally, until the meat is browned and the vegetables are caramelized, about 1 hour. transfer the contents of the pan to a large soup pot. add the bay leaf, onion, chicken broth and cold water; bring to a boil. meanwhile, place the roasting pan over medium heat and add the wine. bring to a simmer, scraping up the browned bits with a spatula; pour liquid into the pot. reduce heat and simmer gently until the stock is reduced to 5 cups, about 1½ hours. strain the stock into a large bowl, pressing on the vegetables to extract as much liquid as possible. refrigerate until the fat rises to the surface and congeals, about 2 hours. (the stock can be made up to two days in advance and kept refrigerated until ready to use. or, make the stock, chill completely, and freeze for up to two months.) skim the fat off the stock and transfer 6 tablespoons of the fat to a medium saucepan set over medium heat. When the fat is sizzling, add the flour and whisk constantly for 1½ minutes. gradually whisk in the turkey stock, a little at a time, letting the roux fully absorb the liquid before adding more (don’t worry that the stock is cold and spoonable; it will instantly liquefy once it hits the hot pan). bring gravy to a simmer and cook until thickened and bubbly, 20 minutes. season with salt and pepper. Cool completely, cover and refrigerate for up to two days or freeze for up to three months (let it thaw in the refrigerator for one day). on the big day: reheat the gravy in a saucepan set over medium heat until simmering. you can add up to 1 cup of the pan drippings from your roasted turkey to the gravy. to do so, strain the pan drippings into a glass measuring cup, skim off the clear fat that rises to the surface, and discard. Whisk 1 cup of the drippings into the gravy and simmer until reduced slightly, about 10 minutes. (if you prefer thicker gravy, make a slurry by mixing a few tablespoons of flour with an equal amount of cold water. add to the gravy and simmer until thickened, 20 minutes.)

Glazed Acorn Squash Rings With Vanilla Butter: roast half-moon slices of squash with olive oil, salt and pepper. reheat in a microwave or oven and toss with butter mixed with vanilla extract and maple syrup. Green Beans with Almond Brown Butter: blanch green beans and refrigerate. When ready to serve, brown butter in a sauté pan, add toasted slivered almonds and blanched green beans; heat through. Corn and Edamame Succotash: sauté onions, diced red pepper and garlic. add corn kernels, frozen shelled edamame and hot sauce to taste. reheat in microwave and stir in chopped green onions and a dollop of butter. Lacinato Kale With Pancetta and Rosemary: blanch chopped kale and refrigerate. When ready to serve, sauté pancetta and rosemary, toss with kale to reheat, season, and serve.

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roasted pUmpkin pie makes one 9- to 9½-inCh pie

When you’ve got a house full of relatives and a long to-cook list, fiddling with a pie crust is the last thing you need. Using a premade pie crust is totally acceptable, as long as you choose a good one. We like grand Central bakery’s all-butter pie crust and Whole Foods’ 365 organic pie shells. both have a “homemade” flavor and a hand-crimped look. you can atone for the pie dough shortcut by making your own roasted pumpkin filling. it’s a cinch to make, and the rich flavor of fresh roasted squash is worth the extra time. For the best pumpkiny flavor, try kabocha squash, hubbard squash or sugar pie pumpkin that shows no sign of green near the stem (a sign of immaturity and therefore lackluster flavor). roasting, rather than steaming, ensures the squash purée won’t end up watery. one 9- to 9½-inch premade pie shell 1½ cups roasted pumpkin or winter squash purée (see accompanying recipe) 1 cup buttermilk 3 large egg yolks 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon ground cloves ¼ teaspoon baking soda 22

½ teaspoon salt ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup lightly packed brown sugar Whipped cream, for serving heat the oven to 400 degrees. defrost the frozen pie shell at room temperature for 10 minutes. prick the crust all over with a fork. bake pie shell until the crust has set, 10 minutes, pricking the dough gently if it puffs up while cooking. allow the crust to cool for 30 minutes. in a medium bowl, whisk together the pumpkin purée, buttermilk, egg yolks and vanilla. in a large bowl, combine the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, baking soda, salt, granulated sugar and brown sugar. add the wet mixture to the dry mixture and whisk to combine. pour into the pre-baked pie crust and place the pie on a rimmed baking sheet. bake for 10 minutes and then reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees. Continue baking until a knife inserted about 1 inch from the center comes out clean, 45 minutes to 1 hour. (the pie can be made up to one day ahead. Cool completely, cover with plastic and chill.) on the big day: Warm gently in 300-degree oven, if desired, and serve with whipped cream.

roasted sqUash or pUmpkin pUrée Canned pumpkin (which is often made from butternut squash) can’t hold a candle to the buttery, earthy flavor of real roasted squash. it may sound like a pain in the neck, but it’s really very simple. if you’re gun-shy about cutting into a tough winter squash or pumpkin, microwave it for a few minutes to soften it up. (poke the squash with a knife a few times before microwaving.) to roast the squash, cut it in half and place it cut-side down on a foil-lined baking sheet. roast in a 400-degree oven until you

can easily plunge a fork into the squash and twist it easily, about 1 to 1½ hours, depending on the size and thickness of the squash. scrape out and discard the seeds and strings. scrape out the roasted flesh and pass it through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any fibrous bits. refrigerate the purée in an airtight container for up to two days or freeze for up to three months. a 4-pound squash or pumpkin will yield about 1½ cups of squash purée. £ photograph by sUsan seUbert


       

 

       


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Holidays are for herbivores Roast? Check. Carefully chosen side dishes? Check. Wine selection? Check. Planning your holiday menu is going swimmingly — until you find out you’ve got vegetarians on the guest list. Or maybe you’re a vegetarian yourself, and you’ve been searching in vain for a meatless recipe worthy of taking center stage at the holiday table. Whatever the reason, if you’re looking for a festive, special, vegetarian entree that even meateaters will adore, these four recipes have you covered. Sweet potato cakes napped with a cozy roasted root vegetable gravy are a rich, warming way to celebrate the season’s bounty. And those who can never get enough stuffing will love tucking into an individual gratin filled with rich, eggy panade flecked

with earthy wild mushrooms. It’s like stuffing with a college education. If elegance is in order, we offer golden, billowing, puff pastry-encased Wellingtons. They’re filled with beets instead of beef, plus flavorful sautéed mushrooms, greens and a crumble of goat cheese. Just as impressive — though even easier — are individual leek and goat cheese soufflés. They get baked twice, so you don’t have to stress about rushing them to the table before they deflate. As a special bonus, all of these vegetable-centric entrees can be made ahead and finished off at the last minute, so you can please everyone at the table, sans stress.

By Ivy MAnnIng / Photography by MOTOyA nAKAMURA

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Twice-Baked Leek and Truffle goat Cheese Soufflés With Red Pepper Sauce Makes 4 soufflés

no need to panic about timing with these impressive vegetarian soufflés — they’re baked in advance and reheated in a simple, smoky red pepper sauce. I use Mt. Townsend Creamery’s mild, soft, black truffle-flecked goat cheese in this recipe; find it at Whole Foods Market and Steve’s Cheese, or use any mild goat cheese. 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature (divided) 4 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 2 large leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour ¾ cup warm whole milk 2 ounces crumbled soft goat cheese with truffles 1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg 1 pinch cayenne ½ teaspoon salt 3 eggs, separated

Red Pepper Sauce

1 egg white

One 12-ounce jar roasted red peppers, drained

⁄8 teaspoon cream of tartar

½ teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika

Red Pepper Sauce (recipe follows)

3 tablespoons whipping cream

1

Salt and freshly ground black pepper Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Place a baking sheet on the center rack of the oven. Using 1 tablespoon of the butter, grease four 8-ounce ramekins. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the cheese in each ramekin to coat. Set aside. Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook, reducing heat if they begin to brown, until they are tender and very soft and melty, 5-7 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl. Return the pan to medium-low heat and melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly, for 1½ minutes. Whisk in the milk, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring, until very thick, 1 minute. Remove the pan from the stove and stir in the leeks, goat cheese, nutmeg, cayenne and salt. Allow the mixture to cool at room temperature for 5 minutes and then whisk in the egg yolks. In a large bowl, whip the egg whites (3 whites from the separated eggs plus the 1 egg white) and cream of tartar until medium-stiff peaks form when the whip is lifted. gently fold the egg whites into the yolk mixture in 3 additions. Spoon the egg mixture into the prepared ramekins and run your thumb along the inside of the rim of each ramekin. Transfer to the preheated baking sheet and bake (do not open the oven!), until the soufflés are puffed and golden, 25 to 30 minutes. Allow the soufflés to come to room temperature, cover with plastic wrap, and keep refrigerated for up to three days. When ready to serve, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Run a knife around the edges of each soufflé and invert to remove them. Arrange soufflés in 4 oven-safe serving dishes or gratin dishes. Pour the pepper sauce over the soufflés and bake until heated through, 15 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

2 tablespoons chopped parsley Combine peppers, paprika and whipping cream in a blender and blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

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Beet Wellingtons Makes 4

A play on classic Beef Wellingtons, these puff pastry-wrapped showstoppers are full of flavorful roasted beets, herby mushrooms, greens and goat cheese. They make an impressive vegetarian feast, plus you can assemble them in advance and keep them in the freezer until you’re ready to bake. 2 medium golden beets (about 8 ounces) 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil (divided) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup thinly sliced onion 2 portobello mushrooms (3 ounces each), stems discarded, caps roughly chopped 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary 2 tablespoons dry red wine 4 cups chopped beet greens or Swiss chard leaves (tough center rib discarded) 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic 2 sheets (about 9 ounces each) frozen all-butter puff pastry 28

2 ounces soft goat cheese 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon water ¾ teaspoon poppy seeds

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Wrap the beets in foil and bake until a paring knife slides easily into the center of the largest beet, about 1 hour. When cool enough to handle, peel the beets, thinly slice them and toss with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste; set aside. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and sauté until beginning to brown, 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms, thyme and rosemary. Season with salt and pepper to taste and cook until the mushrooms begin to release their liquid, about 3 minutes. Add the wine and sauté until it has nearly evaporated. Transfer mushrooms to a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl or the sink and push on mushrooms with a spoon to remove as much liquid as possible. Transfer mushrooms to a bowl and set aside. Return the sauté pan to medium-high heat and add remaining tablespoon of oil. When the oil is hot, add the beet greens and garlic. Season with salt and pepper to taste and sauté until the greens are wilted and tender, 2 minutes. Place the greens in the fine-mesh sieve used to drain the mushrooms and squeeze to remove as much liquid as possible. Cut four 6-by-6-inch squares of parchment paper. Unroll one sheet of the defrosted puff pastry on a lightly floured surface and use a metal ring or saucer as a guide to cut four 5-inch circles out of the dough with a sharp knife. Unroll the second sheet of dough and cut out four 4-inch circles. Reserve scraps for another use. Lay the 4-inch rounds on the parchment squares. Place a layer of greens on each round, leaving ½ inch of uncovered pastry around the borders of each pastry (you may not use all of the greens). Top with the beets, mushrooms and finally the goat cheese. Moisten the edges of the pastry with water. Stretch the 5-inch rounds of dough over the filling and use the tines of a fork to seal the edges of the pastry circles together. Chill for at least one hour or up to 24 hours, or freeze until ready to bake. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut three 2-inch slashes on the top of each Wellington to vent steam. Whisk together the egg yolk, water and a pinch of salt. Brush the Wellingtons with the egg wash, sprinkle with poppy seeds, and bake until golden brown, 30 minutes for fresh Wellingtons, or 40 minutes if starting from frozen. Serve right away.


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garnet yam Farls With Roasted Root vegetable gravy Makes 8 wedges; serves 4

2 pounds garnet yams 3 tablespoons butter, at room temperature (divided) 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¾ teaspoon dried sage 2 chopped green onions 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for forming the dough

Roasted Root vegetable gravy Makes 4 servings

Farls, also called fadges, are an Irish breakfast dish similar to a potato cake crossed with a scone. I like to make them for dinner instead of breakfast, using roasted garnet yams and topping them with a wintry root vegetable gravy. Both the farls and the gravy can be made ahead and reheated, if necessary. 1 large parsnip

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Prick the yams all over with a fork, place in a pie plate, and bake until tender when pierced with a fork, about 1 hour. Split the yams lengthwise and allow them to cool completely. Scoop the yam flesh into a large bowl. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter and mash with a potato masher (you will need 2 cups). Stir in the salt, pepper, sage and green onions. Add enough flour (about 1 cup) to make a soft, slightly sticky dough; do not overmix. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and pat it into an 8-inch round. Cut the dough into 8 wedges. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Use an offset spatula to transfer the farls to the pan and cook until browned and crisp, 5 minutes per side. Serve warm with roasted root gravy. (Recipe follows) (The farls can be made up to one day ahead. Cool completely, wrap in foil and refrigerate until ready to use. Reheat over medium-low heat in a large nonstick pan until heated through, 10 minutes.)

4 medium carrots 1 small rutabaga 4 teaspoons vegetarian bouillon powder 2 cups cremini mushrooms 4 medium shallots (5 ounces), peeled and left whole 3 sprigs fresh thyme 6 tablespoons unsalted butter (divided) Salt and freshly ground black pepper ⁄3 cup all-purpose flour

1

2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce 1 tablespoon white miso Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Peel the parsnip, carrots and rutabaga. Cut the parsnips and carrots lengthwise into quarters and then into 1½-inch lengths. Cut the rutabaga into 1½-inch sticks of similar size. Bring 6 cups of water and the bouillon powder to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the parsnip, carrots and rutabaga and simmer until the vegetables are just tender when pierced with a knife, 8 minutes. Remove the vegetables from the cooking liquid with a slotted spoon; reserve the cooking liquid. Combine the cooked vegetables, mushrooms, shallots, thyme and 3 tablespoons of the butter in a large (9-by-13-inch or bigger) metal roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper and roast until the vegetables are caramelized, 45 minutes, stirring once while baking. Transfer the vegetables to a large bowl. Place the roasting pan over medium heat and melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter. Whisk in the flour and cook for 1 minute. Add 3 cups of the reserved vegetable cooking liquid and simmer until thickened and bubbly, 5 minutes. Add the soy sauce and miso, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the heat to low, add the vegetables, and simmer for 5 minutes. Serve the gravy spooned over warm farls. (The gravy and vegetables can be made up to two days in advance; store them separately in airtight containers in the refrigerator. Reheat the gravy in a medium saucepan until bubbly, whisking, and adding a little water if necessary to make a smooth gravy. Add the roasted vegetables and cook until heated through, 5 minutes. Serve immediately.)

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Wild Mushroom and Winter Squash Panade serves 4

The French ancestor to our modern-day stuffing, panade (literally “big bread thing”) is a tasty, frugal casserole of rustic bread cubes, stock and sometimes vegetables. This slightly more upscale version is less about the bread and much more about the season’s wild mushrooms and savory winter squash. Crunchy on the edges and moist in the center, these little gruyère-topped gratins are a perfect do-ahead vegetarian option for holiday feasts.

6 slices (7 ounces) rustic (chewy) artisan bread, cut into 1-inch pieces (6 cups) 5 tablespoons olive oil (divided) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 10-ounce bag frozen chopped butternut squash 1½ teaspoons chopped fresh sage 6 cups sliced wild mushrooms such as chanterelles, maitake or porcini 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic 1 tablespoon tomato paste ¾ cup pinot noir 1½ cups mushroom broth (I use Pacific Foods brand) 2 tablespoons butter, room temperature ¾ cup grated cave-aged gruyère cheese

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the bread with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and bake until crisp, 10 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside. In a large sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the squash and sage. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and sauté until the squash is browned and tender when pierced with a fork, 3 minutes, reducing heat if it begins to burn. Transfer squash to a small bowl. Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the mushrooms, thyme and rosemary and cook without stirring for 2 minutes. Sprinkle the mushrooms with salt and pepper and continue to cook until the mushrooms have released their liquid, 3 more minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and sauté until fragrant, 45 seconds. Reduce the heat to medium and add the wine. Bring to a simmer, scraping up the browned bits at the bottom of the pan. When the wine has nearly evaporated, add the broth, reduce heat to medium low, and simmer until the mushrooms are tender, 4 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees. Use the butter to grease four 2-cup baking or gratin dishes. Add the squash and mushroom mixture to the bread cubes and stir to combine. Divide the mixture evenly among the gratin dishes, sprinkle with cheese, and bake until golden brown and hot in the center, 30 minutes. (The uncooked panade gratins can be made up to two days in advance and kept in the refrigerator until ready to use. Bake as instructed, adding 10 minutes to the cooking time.) £


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For reservations, call 503-736-9276 or browse dinner options online at ourhouseofportland.org


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A holiday meal needs a roast

We’re not sure why, but a big holiday meal doesn’t feel quite right unless there’s something monumental on the table. Maybe it’s just because having a big ol’ roasted something is traditional: Our parents did it and so did theirs. Maybe it’s a drama thing — the “ta-da” moment of bringing a platter to the table. Or maybe it’s just because roast meat and poultry tastes so good, with succulent browned outsides, moist and juicy insides, and often an association with stuffing or gravy. Whatever the reason, we’ve got the roasts for you to choose from, ranging from very Norman Rockwell turkey to slightly more exotic Scandinavian leg of lamb. So let’s toast to the roast.


mEaty dishEs / CONt.

Simple Classic Roast Turkey MakeS 12 tO 20 SeRviNgS

This picture-perfect turkey will have skin that is crisp and golden-hued, the meat will be moist (yes, even the breast meat!) and the flavor will be divine because you took these simple steps to prepare and roast the turkey. 1 14- to 16-pound turkey Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 large yellow onion (about 12 ounces), coarsely chopped 2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch lengths 2 large stalks celery, cut into 1-inch lengths 4 large, fresh sage leaves 3 sprigs fresh thyme 1½ cups water ½ cup unsalted butter, melted (1 stick) 1. Remove the turkey from the refrigerator 1 hour before you plan to cook it. Remove the neck and bag of giblets from the main and neck cavities of the bird. Set aside. Trim off the tail and set aside. Pull off any pockets of fat attached to the skin near the opening of the chest cavity and discard. Pat turkey dry with paper towels. Have ready a large roasting pan with a nonstick roasting rack, preferably V-shaped, set in the pan. 36

2. Thirty minutes before you plan to roast the turkey, position an oven rack on the lowest level in the oven. Preheat oven to 500 degrees. 3. While the oven is heating, sprinkle the inside of the chest and neck cavities with a little salt and pepper. Put half of the onion, carrots and celery inside the chest cavity. Scatter the rest evenly on the bottom of the roasting pan. Stuff the sage and two of the thyme sprigs inside the cavity. Put the third sprig of thyme in the roasting pan. Add the water to the pan. 4. Tuck the turkey wing tips back and under the wings so they lie close to the chest. Cut a 12inch piece of kitchen twine and bring the legs together, wrapping the twine around the ends (knobs) of the legs to secure them. Tie a knot and trim any extra length of string. Use a small metal skewer or toothpick to secure the neck skin so it doesn’t flop open. Use a pastry brush to brush the turkey with half of the butter. Sprinkle the turkey on all sides with a little salt and pepper. 5. Place the turkey, breast side up, on the rack. Roast for 30 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 350 degrees. Baste the turkey with the pan juices, and roast an additional 30 minutes. Baste with pan juices. Continue to roast, basting with pan juices after 45 minutes. After another 45 minutes, baste with the remaining butter.

Tent the turkey loosely with foil if the breast is browning too much. The turkey is done when an instant-read thermometer registers 180 degrees when inserted into the thickest part of the thigh. (Allow about 14 minutes per pound; roasting times will vary, depending on the size of the bird, its temperature when it went into the oven, and your oven.) 6. When the turkey is done, transfer it to a carving board or serving platter and cover the breast loosely with aluminum foil. Allow the turkey to rest for 15 to 30 minutes before carving to let the juices set. Warm the platter you plan to serve the turkey on. 7. To carve the turkey, untie the bird and remove the skewer or toothpick from the neck skin. Using a sharp carving knife and meat fork, cut down between the thigh and body until you feel bone. Twist the leg and thigh a little, pulling it away from the breast until you see the thigh

joint. Now cut through the joint to separate the thigh from the body. Cut the joint where the leg meets the thigh. Repeat on the other side. Now you have legs and thighs ready for a warm platter. To carve the breast meat, start at the keel bone that runs along the top of the breast. Angle the knife and cut thin slices of breast meat from one side of the bird. Continue until you reach the rib cage. Lay slices of breast meat in overlapping fashion down the center of the platter. Carve meat from the thighs and place on the platter along with the drumsticks. Cut additional breast meat from the other side, if needed. Separate the wings from the breast, if desired. Serve immediately. Tent the rest of the turkey with foil to keep warm. Remove the rest of the turkey from the carcass later for some fine leftovers.

phOtOgRaph by Mike daviS


Dressed-Up Classic Roast Turkey MakeS 12 tO 20 SeRviNgS

Instead of simply rubbing the turkey on the outside with butter, our dressed-up bird gets the spa treatment and is massaged and moisturized under the skin with a quick Garlic-Herb Butter that infuses the bird with terrific flavor all the way through the meat. The butter can be made while the oven is preheating. Or make it a day or two in advance, refrigerate, then bring it to room temperature before using. For our dressed- up version you won’t be using the stick of melted butter in Simple Classic Roast Turkey, but you’ll rub a little olive oil on the outside of the bird before roasting. Garlic-Herb Butter 1 large clove garlic ¼ teaspoon kosher or sea salt Pinch freshly ground black pepper 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature (¾ stick) 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme leaves 1 tablespoon minced fresh sage leaves 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley Simple Classic Roast Turkey (see accompanying recipe) Olive oil To make butter: In the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, mince the garlic with the salt and pepper. Add the butter and process to combine. Scatter the herbs over top and process just until the herbs are evenly combined. Set aside until ready to use, or transfer to a covered container and refrigerate. Makes about ½ cup. To make turkey: Prepare the turkey and preheat the oven as directed in steps 1 and 2 of Simple Classic Roast Turkey. While the oven is heating, sprinkle the inside of the chest and neck cavities with a little salt and pepper. Starting at the neck cavity, carefully slide your fingers between the skin and flesh to loosen the skin from the breast and drumsticks, creating a pocket. Inside this pocket spread and rub the GarlicHerb Butter evenly over the flesh of the breasts and drumsticks. Put half of the onion, carrots and celery inside the chest cavity. Scatter the rest evenly on the bottom of the roasting pan. Stuff the sage and two of the thyme sprigs inside the cavity. Put the third sprig of thyme in the roasting pan. Add 1½ cups of water to the pan. Tuck the turkey wing tips back and under the wings so they lie close to the chest. Cut a 12-inch piece of kitchen twine and bring the legs together, wrapping the twine around the ends (knobs) of the legs to secure them. Tie a knot and trim any extra length of string. Use a small metal skewer or toothpick to secure the neck skin so it doesn’t flop open. Rub the turkey on all sides lightly with a little olive oil. Sprinkle the turkey on all sides with a little salt and pepper. Follow steps 5 through 7 to roast, carve and serve the turkey.

Easy Butterflied Turkey MakeS 8 SeRviNgS pluS leftOveRS

The best way to ensure a moist turkey is to avoid overcooking, and the best way to do that is to use an instant-read or meat thermometer to test doneness. Be sure to remove the turkey from the oven when the turkey reaches 165 degrees; the temperature will continue to rise about 5 degrees as it rests before carving. 1 12-pound fresh or thawed turkey Salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons melted butter

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Unwrap turkey and remove neck and giblets, reserving to make broth, if desired. Using a heavy knife or heavy-duty kitchen shears, remove backbone by cutting along both sides; use for making broth, if desired. Turn the turkey over, and using both hands, firmly press down on the breastbone until you feel it give or hear it crack and the bird flattens out. Tuck the wing tips behind the shoulder and pat the turkey dry with paper towels. Salt and pepper the cut side of the turkey and place it cut side down on a rack in a shallow roasting pan big enough to hold the bird. (You can wrap drumstick tips and other parts that overhang the pan with foil to discourage overbrowning.) Brush the entire skin with melted butter and season with salt and pepper to taste. Roast for 1¼ to 1½ hours or until an instant-read thermometer reaches at least 165 degrees in the breast or thigh; we like turkey a little more done, closer to 175 to 180 in the thigh. (Temperature will continue to rise about 5 degrees after it is removed from the oven.) When turkey is done, remove from oven, tent with foil and allow to sit for 15 to 20 minutes before carving.

phOtOgRaph by Mike daviS

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Roast Leg of Pork With Cumin and Fresh Herb Crust MakeS 8 SeRviNgS With leftOveRS

This recipe is adapted from Bruce Aidells’ “Complete Book of Pork.” It creates a rich, aromatic crust in the style of a large celebratory roast.

To make rub: Put all the ingredients for the rub in the bowl of a food processor and process for 30 seconds. Set aside.

Cumin and fresh herb rub

To make pork: Heat oven to 325 degrees. Score the fat on the roast, cutting parallel lines 1 inch apart, in two directions to create a cross-hatched, diamondlike pattern. Take care not to cut the strings. Pat dry on both sides; rub the herb mixture all over the roast, pressing into the cuts where the fat was scored. Drizzle the olive oil all over the roast, especially where meat is exposed.

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or 2 teaspoons dried 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme or 1 tablespoon dried 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage or 1½ teaspoons dried 1 tablespoon cumin seeds 2 teaspoons ground coriander 2 tablespoons chopped garlic 3 tablespoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons coarsely ground fresh black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil Pork

Set the roast in a shallow roasting pan, fat side up. Insert the probe of a meat thermometer (digital corded or one with a dial that can be read through the oven window), into the centermost part of the meat. Place in the oven. Check the roast temperature after 2 hours, then every 20 minutes thereafter, removing the roast from the oven when internal temperature reaches 140 degrees. Tent with aluminum foil, and let rest 30 minutes. When the roast has finished resting, transfer it to a cutting board. Use a sharp carving knife to remove the string and slice the roast as thinly as possible.

1 fresh half-leg of pork, skin and bone removed, rolled and tied (7 to 9 pounds; see accompanying tips) 1 tablespoon olive oil

phOtOgRaph by Mike daviS


Perfect Prime Rib Roast MakeS 6 tO 8 SeRviNgS

The ideal standing rib roast should contain three to five ribs, and we think three is the perfect size for dinner for six to eight. For more guests (or more leftovers), order a four- or fiverib roast. Either way, ask for a small-end (or first-cut) roast, meaning a roast cut from the loin end of the steer, where the meat is tender, flavorful and leaner than at the large end. Ask your butcher to cut the bones off the meat and then tie them back on, just to make things easier for you.

Prime rib 1 3-bone beef rib roast (prime rib), about 6 pounds 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon dry mustard 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary 6 to 8 sprigs fresh rosemary (optional) Horseradish Sauce ¼ cup prepared horseradish sauce 1 cup sour cream 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard (optional) ¼ cup finely chopped green onions or fresh chives

To cook roast: At least one day ahead of time, unwrap roast and pat dry with paper towels. Combine salt, pepper, dry mustard and chopped rosemary; rub generously all over roast, especially in spaces between meat and bones. Refrigerate, uncovered. Up to two hours before cooking the roast, remove from refrigerator and let sit at room temperature, loosely covered. Position a rack in the center of oven and preheat to 450 degrees. (For grass-fed beef, start at 350 degrees.) Place roast bone side down in a large, shallow roasting pan on a bed of rosemary sprigs, if using (for boneless roasts, line the pan with a roasting rack). Place meat in the oven and roast for 20 minutes, then, without opening the door, reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees. After about 45 minutes, start checking the internal temperature of the roast with an instant-read, probe or continuous-read meat thermometer. Remove the roast at 115 degrees for rare (1 to 1½ hours), 120 to 125 degrees for medium rare and 130 for medium. Tent with foil and let roast sit for 15 to 30 minutes; as it rests, the juices will be redistributed in the meat and the internal temperature will rise by about 10 degrees. Carve the roast at the table and serve. Serve with Creamy Horseradish Sauce. To make sauce: In a medium bowl stir together horseradish sauce, sour cream, Dijon mustard, if desired, and green onions or chives. Note: When using a convection oven, resting temperature of roast can rise as much as 30 degrees, so remove roast at 110 degrees for rare, 115 to 120 degrees for medium rare and 125 for medium doneness. phOtOgRaph by fRedRick d. jOe

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mEaty dishEs / CONt.

Juniper-Spiced Lamb Roast With Brown Goat Cheese Sauce SeRveS 15

There is no acceptable substitute for Gjetost, which is more readily available than you might imagine (you’ll find it in the specialty cheese section of most grocery stores). It is not actually cheese, but more accurately fudge: It is made by first condensing the whey of goat’s milk, then caramelizing the remaining sugars and proteins. Goat fudge. These recipes are easily scaleable for smaller gatherings. Really, the only thing that will be affected is the cooking time for the roast. Roast 2 cups gin (I use Aviation, but that’s because I make it; other brands will do) ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 20 juniper berries, crushed One 6- to 7-pound boneless leg of lamb, tied with cotton twine (the synthetic, elastic stuff doesn’t take too well to sautéing) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Put the gin, olive oil and juniper berries in an extra-large, heavy-duty resealable plastic bag, add the lamb and marinate overnight in the refrigerator. Remove lamb from marinade. Drain — reserving the marinade — and pat dry. Season well with salt and pepper.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter Sauce 2 cups beef or game broth 40

¼ cup unsalted butter 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup reserved marinade, plus more if needed 1 cup sour cream 6 ounces or more Gjetost (Norwegian goat’s milk cheese), sliced phOtOgRaph by MaRtiN thiel

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, add the butter and thoroughly brown the lamb on all sides. Place lamb in the skillet in the oven and roast until the internal temperature reaches 135 degrees, about 1½ to 2 hours. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board, tent with foil and allow to rest. Don’t wash out the pan yet. While the lamb is resting, make the sauce: Put the skillet back on a burner over medium heat. Cook to reduce any remaining juices, then add ½ cup of the broth and boil until nearly evaporated. Add the butter, and when

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melted, whisk in the flour and cook for a minute. Gradually whisk in the remaining broth, then 1 cup of the reserved marinade, continually whisking to avoid lumps. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the sour cream and finally the Gjetost, a little at a time, until fully incorporated. Adjust the consistency either by simmering a bit to reduce and concentrate the sauce, or by adding more of the marinade if the sauce needs thinning; be sure to boil for a few minutes if you add more marinade (it’s been in contact with raw meat, so it needs to be fully cooked). Season with salt and pepper to taste and transfer to gravy boats. Slice the lamb into ¼-inch slices and arrange on serving platters. Serve immediately with sauce on the side. £


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Savor these relishes Sit down to a big plate of roasted meat, gravy, stuffing, buttery mashed potatoes and a dinner roll and you’re on your way to palate fatigue in four bites. With all the rich food we have on our plates during the holidays, our tastebuds end up crying out for a counterpoint. We need something tart, spicy or sour to wake them up and offer a foil for the opulence of the meal. Enter relishes, chutneys and compotes. Made with tangy, spicy, vinegary or pungent ingredients, these special little extras can add pizazz to otherwise heavy meals. The bonus? They always taste better when made hours or even days in advance, so you can get a head start on your holiday meal. By Ivy MannIng Photography by MOTOya naKaMURa

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Cipollini agrodolce (Little Sweet and Sour Onions)

Creamy Horseradish Sauce

Makes 1½ cups

Makes 1½ cups

Braised with balsamic vinegar, sugar, wine and raisins, these small, sweet, disc-shaped onions make a great side dish for beef and pork roasts. If you can’t find cipollini onions, pearl onions can be substituted. Leftovers are great served with crusty bread and fancy cheeses. 12 ounces cipollini onions ½ cup water 1 tablespoon tomato paste 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1 bay leaf ½ cup dry white wine ¼ cup raisins ½ teaspoon salt

Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. add the onions and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Drain the onions and plunge them into a bowl of ice water. When the onions are cool enough to handle, slip off the papery skins with your fingers, using a paring knife if necessary to free the skin from the root end. Quarter the largest onions through the root end, if necessary, to make bite-size pieces that are no larger than 1 inch thick.

This creamy sauce is light-years better than the overly pungent jarred horseradish available at supermarkets. Here you will find a rich, creamy sauce with a fresh, kicky flavor that goes exceptionally well with rare roast beef and ham. Leftover sauce makes a great sandwich spread or addition to mashed potatoes.

In a medium sauté pan, combine onions, water, tomato paste, vinegar, sugar, bay leaf, white wine, raisins and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook over medium-low heat until the onions are tender when pierced with a fork and the liquid has thickened to a shiny glaze, about 1 hour. (The onions can be made up to four days in advance; keep refrigerated in a nonreactive airtight container. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

3 ounces fresh horseradish root, peeled 7.5 ounces crème fraîche (I like Bellwether Farms brand) 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard Finely grate the horseradish root with a Microplane zester; you will need 8 tablespoons. In a small, nonreactive bowl, combine horseradish, crème fraîche, lemon zest, salt and mustard. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving. (The sauce can be made up to four days in advance; keep refrigerated in a nonreactive, airtight container until ready to use.)


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Spicy Quince Compote Makes 3 cups

Quince, an ancient fruit related to the apple, comes into season in mid to late fall. The flowery aroma of quince is a natural bedfellow to the floral notes of the pinot gris and whole spices in this recipe. Serve the compote with roasted venison, pork roast or ham. 2 lemons 4 quinces, about 2 pounds ¾ cup granulated sugar

Tart Plum Chutney With Whole Spices Makes 2¾ cups

1¼ cups Oregon pinot gris

Serve this pleasantly tangy chutney with turkey, duck or roast goose to help cut the richness of the meat. Leftovers are great alongside Indian food.

¾ cup water 1 small red Thai chile, broken in half

½ cup chopped red onion

2 bay leaves

4 teaspoons peeled, minced fresh ginger

2 whole cloves

1 medium granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and chopped

4 whole black peppercorns

3 tablespoons champagne or white wine vinegar

1 cinnamon stick, broken in half Squeeze the lemons into a large bowl of cold water. Peel and core the quinces (save the peels and cores) and cut into ½-inch slices. Place quinces in the lemony water and cover with a damp paper towel to keep the fruit submerged in the water and prevent it from oxidizing. In a large saucepan, combine the quince peels, cores, sugar, wine and water. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, and simmer until the liquid turns a rosy pink, 15 minutes. Remove the peels and cores with a slotted spoon and discard. add the sliced quince, chile, bay leaves, cloves, peppercorns and cinnamon stick to the cooking liquid in the saucepan and simmer gently until the quince are tender when pierced with a fork, about 25 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Transfer the quince, aromatics and half of the cooking liquid to an airtight container and refrigerate until ready to use. If you choose to leave the chile in the mix, the compote will become spicier with time. (The compote can be made up to three days in advance.)

½ cup water 3 green cardamom pods 1 star anise ½ cinnamon stick 1 pound purple plums, pitted and sliced ½ cup granulated sugar ½ teaspoon salt In a large pot, combine the onion, ginger, apple, vinegar, water, cardamom, star anise and cinnamon. Bring to a simmer; reduce heat to medium-low and cook, covered, until the apples have become tender, 10 minutes. add the plums, sugar and salt and return to a simmer. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the plums have nearly melted, 30 minutes. Transfer to a nonreactive container and allow mixture to sit for at least 2 hours before serving. (The chutney can be made up to one week in advance; keep refrigerated in an airtight nonreactive container until ready to use.)

Raw Cranberry and ginger Relish With Kumquats Makes 2½ cups

This refreshing, sweet-tart relish uses frozen cranberries because they’re better at releasing their juice when chopped. Kumquats have a sweet, aromatic peel and lovely tart flesh, both of which are used here. Look for kumquats at grocery stores from november through March where other citrus fruits are sold. 12 kumquats 10 ounces frozen cranberries, defrosted and roughly chopped 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger ¾ cup granulated sugar

Halve the kumquats lengthwise and remove the seeds. Finely chop the kumquats and combine them with the cranberries, ginger and sugar in a nonreactive airtight container. an alternative is to pulse the whole cranberries and kumquats in a food processor, then add the remaining ingredients and pulse to combine. allow the mixture to sit for at least 2 hours in the refrigerator before serving. (The relish can be made up to one week ahead. Keep refrigerated in a nonreactive airtight container until ready to use.) £

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Rockin’ the chocolate We don’t recommend ever being stingy with chocolate, but the holidays are a time when we recommend that your baseline of chocolate indulgence ratchet up significantly. Holidays are about happy and so is chocolate, so it just makes sense. Because chocolate can take on so many delicious forms, we’re serving up recipes for everything from photograph by beth nakamura

simple hand-held treats to more fancy, dessert-plateworthy cakes and tarts. Most of these can be made ahead, too, so you’ll be able to fit them neatly into your entertaining flight plan. The one bit of advice we do have is to use good chocolate and good butter, and to make sure your spices and nuts are fresh. If the hazelnuts in your pantry are the ones you used for last year’s holiday dessert, time to press “refresh” and get a new batch.


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Double-Chocolate Cayenne Cookies makes 8 dozen cookies

2 cups chopped 80 to 85 percent cacao chocolate (about 10 ounces) 1 cup butter, at room temperature (2 sticks) 1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar ¾ cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper (use a bit less if you prefer it milder) The Best-Tasting Vodka in the World Awarded Top Vodka, Double Gold Medal 2009 SAN FRANCISCO WORLD SPIRITS COMPETITION

1 teaspoon vanilla 2 eggs 1¾ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ heaping teaspoon salt 1 cup chopped 60 to 70 percent cacao chocolate (about 5½ ounces) ½ to ¾ cup turbinado sugar (such as Sugar in the Raw) or other coarse sugar Heat oven to 375 degrees.

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Melt the 80 to 85 percent cacao chocolate in the top pan of a double boiler or by placing a metal mixing bowl over simmering water (don’t let it touch the water). Once chocolate is melted, set aside. In a mixing bowl using an electric mixer on high, beat the butter until light and smooth, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the brown and granulated sugars and continue mixing until incorporated. Reduce mixer speed to low and add the melted chocolate, cayenne, vanilla and eggs. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the chocolate mixture in three batches, incorporating the flour before adding the next batch. Finally, fold in the chopped 60 to 70 percent cacao chocolate. Refrigerate dough for at least 30 minutes, or overnight.

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If making the cookies the next day, let dough soften for about 10 minutes at room temperature. Roll dough into 1-inch balls. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. On a plate, roll the balls in the turbinado sugar to coat and place on the prepared pan about 1½ inches apart. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, and cool on wire rack. These are also delicious warm. — Blake Von Roekel photograph by susan seubert


Wintertime Chocolate-Caramel Tart makes one 11-inch tart, 8 servings

Crust ½ cup chopped dark chocolate 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces 2 cups finely ground chocolate-wafer cookie crumbs made from store-bought cookies Filling 1 egg plus 1 egg yolk 2 teaspoons vanilla Pinch of salt 1½ cups granulated sugar ½ cup water 1¼ cups hot whipping cream 2 cups whole almonds, toasted (see note) Ganache 6 ounces dark chocolate, chopped ¾ cup whipping cream Pinch of salt Purchased ice cream or lightly sweetened, softly whipped cream for serving

To make crust: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly coat an 11-inch tart pan with nonstick cooking spray. Place the chocolate and butter in a small saucepan and set in a wide pan or skillet of hot water. Set aside for 5 minutes, stirring 4 or 5 times, and let melt completely. Stir until smooth. In a medium bowl, combine the cookie crumbs and chocolate mixture until well blended. Transfer the mixture to the prepared tart pan and press the mixture onto the sides and bottom of the pan. Bake until set, lightly toasted and smelling of chocolate, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature. To make filling: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place a medium bowl in the freezer. In another medium bowl, whisk the egg, egg yolk, vanilla and salt until combined. In a small, heavy saucepan over medium heat, combine the sugar and water. Stir until the sugar dissolves; cook until mixture turns a light caramel color. Remove from the heat and slowly stir in the hot cream until blended. Watch out for spatters. Pour the caramel mixture into the bowl that has been chilling in the freezer. Add the almonds and continue to stir until the mixture cools. Slowly whisk the almond mixture into the egg mixture until blended. Pour the combined mixture into the prepared tart crust and bake until the filling bubbles slightly and the center is almost set, 30 to 40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely. To make ganache: Place the chocolate in a small bowl. In a small saucepan over medium heat, heat the cream and salt until small bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate. Let stand for 3 to 4 minutes, then stir until the mixture is smooth. Spread the ganache over the cooled tart and refrigerate uncovered until the ganache is set, about 1 hour. Serve each chilled wedge with a small scoop of ice cream or whipped cream.

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Sweet Tart Dough

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Chocolate Hazelnut Tart

makes one 9-inch tart shell

4½ tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

makes one 9-inch tart; 8 to 14 servings

1 fully baked and cooled Sweet Tart Dough tart shell (see accompanying recipe) 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped ½ cup unsalted butter ¼ cup Frangelico (hazelnut liqueur) or brandy (optional) ⁄3 cup granulated sugar (divided)

2

3 large eggs ⁄8 teaspoon salt

1

½ teaspoon grated orange zest 1 cup whole hazelnuts, lightly toasted and skins rubbed off

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Have the tart shell ready for filling. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Put the chocolate in a heatproof mixing bowl. In a saucepan, combine the butter, liqueur (if using) and 1 ⁄3 cup of the sugar. Place over medium-low heat and stir until the butter melts and the sugar dissolves. Pour the butter mixture over the chocolate and stir with a rubber spatula until the chocolate melts. In a large mixing bowl, combine the remaining 1⁄3 cup sugar, eggs, salt and zest. Using a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment on medium speed or a whisk, beat the mixture until it is a very pale yellow, is light and flows off the whisk in a thick ribbon when whisk is lifted out of the bowl. This will take about 3 minutes. Pour one-third of the egg mixture into the

melted chocolate, whisk to lighten the mixture, and then fold in the remaining egg mixture with a rubber spatula. Pour the filling into the pastry shell and smooth the surface with an offset spatula. Arrange the hazelnuts evenly on top. Bake the tart until the surface of the filling loses some of its shine but hasn’t souffléd (puffed up), 15 to 18 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely on a wire rack. Serve at room temperature. The tart will keep, well wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to five days. Note: To toast nuts, spread on baking sheet and bake in 375-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes or until the skins crack. To remove skins, rub warm nuts with a rough cloth. — Adapted from “Tartine” by Elisabeth M. Prueitt and Chad Robertson

¼ cup granulated sugar 2 pinches salt (divided) 1 large egg, at room temperature, whisked to blend 1 cup all-purpose flour In a large bowl with an electric mixer, combine the butter, sugar and one pinch of salt and mix on medium speed until smooth. Mix in 2 tablespoons of the beaten egg and mix until smooth (save the rest of the egg to glaze the crust). Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Add the flour all at once and mix on low speed just until incorporated. On a lightly floured work surface, shape the ball of dough into a disk ½ inch thick. Wrap well in plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours or overnight. To line a tart pan, place the dough disk on a lightly floured surface and roll out 1⁄8 inch thick, rolling from the center toward the edge in all directions. Lift and rotate the dough a quarter turn after every few strokes, dusting underneath as necessary to discourage sticking, and work quickly to prevent the dough from becoming warm. Roll out a circle 2 inches larger than the pan. If the dough is still cool, carefully transfer the circle to the pan, easing it into the bottom and sides and then pressing gently into place. Do not stretch the dough, or the sides will shrink during baking. If the dough has become too soft to work with, put it in the refrigerator for a few minutes to firm up before transferring it to the pan. If the dough develops any tears, just patch with a little extra dough, pressing firmly to adhere. Trim the dough level with the top of the pan with a sharp knife. Place the pastry shell in the refrigerator or freezer until it is firm, about 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Dock (make small holes in) the bottom of the tart shell with a fork or the tip of a knife, making tiny holes 2 inches apart. Place in the oven and bake for 9 to 12 minutes for a fully baked shell. The pastry should be lightly colored and look dry and pale golden brown. Check the shell during baking and rotate the pan if necessary for even color. Whisk the remaining beaten egg with the remaining pinch of salt in a small bowl. A minute or two before the desired color is reached, remove the shell from the oven and lightly brush the bottom and sides with the glaze. Return the shell to the oven and bake until the desired color is reached and the glaze is set. Let cool completely on wire racks. The pastry shell will keep, well wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to one week or in the freezer for up to two weeks. — From “Tartine” by Elisabeth M. Prueitt and Chad Robertson photograph by mike davis


Carafe’s Bittersweet Chocolate Cake makes 6 servings

We discovered that cold leftover cakes can be warmed in a hot water bath for easier removal from the ramekins. Extras can also be wrapped well and frozen for up to two weeks. 9 ounces bittersweet chocolate ¾ cup unsalted butter (1½ sticks) 3 tablespoons bourbon 3 tablespoons water ⁄3 cup granulated sugar (divided)

2

4 eggs

Fresh raspberries (garnish)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bring a pot of water to a boil for the water bath. Butter six 4-ounce ramekins. Melt chocolate and butter in double boiler over hot water, stirring every minute or so until melted and well-combined.

photograph by motoya nakamura

In a small saucepan, boil bourbon, water and half the sugar. Whisk into chocolate/butter mixture until

1 tablespoon bleached all-purpose flour Whipped cream (garnish)

incorporated. Remove from heat. Whisk in the eggs and remaining sugar. Whisk in flour; do not overmix. Pour ½ cup batter into each prepared ramekin. Place ramekins in a shallow baking pan and pour boiling water into the pan until it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

Bake for about 35 to 40 minutes or until set in the center. Remove to cooling rack and invert cakes out of ramekins onto dessert plates while still very warm. Serve warm with dollop of whipped cream and a few fresh raspberries. — From chef Pascal Sauton, Carafe

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DEssErts / CONt.

Red Fox Brownies With Caramel Swirl and Sea Salt makes 16 brownies

This recipe makes a lot of batter, which results in deep brownies with crispy sides. At McMinnville’s Red Fox Bakery, they slice each pan into six slices, creating four corner pieces for those who love the edges and two middle pieces for those who don’t. However, these brownies are so sinfully rich, we cut the pieces much smaller.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-by13-inch baking dish with a butter wrapper or nonstick cooking spray, and line with parchment paper or foil, leaving 2 inches extra on each end to use as handles when removing brownies from pan.

12 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

Melt chocolate and butter together over a double boiler. Whisk to combine. Set aside.

Pour half the brownie batter into the prepared pan. Drop half of the caramel sauce over the batter in dollops. Swirl into the batter. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon flaked sea salt. Pour the remaining batter over the caramel and spoon the remaining caramel sauce in dollops over the top. Swirl into the batter and sprinkle the remaining teaspoon of flaked sea salt over the top.

Place eggs, vanilla, sugar and salt in a stand mixer bowl. Using the whisk attachment, whip on high for 5 minutes or until the batter is thick and holds a ribbon when the beaters are lifted from the bowl. Remove from the mixer.

Bake until the top has a thin, flaky layer, the sides begin to pull away from the pan, and it is slightly domed, about 50 to 60 minutes. A knife inserted in the center will come away with just a crumb or two.

Gently sift the flour over the top of the egg mixture. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the flour gently, avoiding pockets of white flour that will cause unsightly white dots in the brownies. Fold the chocolate mixture into the batter quickly, being sure to get all the way to the bottom of the bowl.

Cool and refrigerate until set before attempting to cut. Best served at room temperature.

1½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, chopped into 1-inch pieces 54

6 eggs 1 tablespoon vanilla 32⁄3 cups superfine sugar (1 pound, 9 ounces) Pinch of kosher salt 41⁄3 cups cake flour (1 pound) 1 (11-ounce) jar thick caramel sauce (divided; we used Fran’s Classic Caramel Sauce; the sauce should be thick enough that it doesn’t pour out of the jar) 1½ teaspoons flaked sea salt (divided; we used Maldon brand)

— From Laurie Furch, co-owner, Red Fox Bakery in McMinnville photograph by mike davis


Live Music

Northwest Spirits

Gourmet Bites

Hundreds of Northwest Wines

Outstanding Beers

Featuring Jay Koder & Jim Fisher

The Northwest Food and Wine Festival Prepare to Meet Your Maker!

It’s Oregon’s Largest Tasting Room!

November 13 • 4-8pm Pure Space in the Pearl - NW 14th and Overton Tickets & Information: www.nwfoodandwinefestival.com


M Chef Pascal Chureau Allium

Chef Gregory Lawrence Chez Jole Catering & Capers Café

E

eet just a few of our participating chefs!

Chef Scott Jodell Hinojosa Chef Nick Chef Beau Carr Chef BJ Smith- Chef Sean Chef Craig H5O Bistro & Bar Ketterman Ringside Jo Foody Plainfields Place The Original ConcannonSimpatica West Café Steakhouse Catering

Chef Andy ArndtAquariva

Chef Gabe Gabreski A Cena Ristorante

Lee Cheatle Catering By Bo

Chef Matt Christianson Urban Farmer

Chef Donald Clegett Toast

Chef DustinWildwood

Chef Kenny GiambalvoBluehour

Chef ScottLaurelwood Brew Pub

The Pacific Winery Association brings together the best of both worlds. Dine out at any of our participating restaurants and then attend a complimentary wine and food gathering during the month. Fine food and wines — a wonderful combination! For details visit pacificwineryassociation.com Membership is complimentary - all you have to do is enjoy!

vent Partcipants

A Cena Ristorante Airfield Estates Alaska Airlines Alexander Valley Vineyards Alexandria Nicole Cellars AlexEli Vineyard & Winery Allium Ankeny Vineyard AquaRiva Artisanal Wine Cellars Baja Mariner Foods Basel Cellars Beijo Bags Bendistillery Bernard~Machado Blendissimo, Inc. Bonterra Bridge Brands Chocolate Brooks Wine Brown Box Wines Buenísima Mango Nectar Buty Winery Cabot Cheese Canyon’s Edge Winery Carlton Cellars Carlton Hill

Catering By Bo & Bo’s Restobar Cavu Cellars Cerulean Wine Chandler Reach Winery Charlie’s Produce Chez Gourmet Chez Jolez Restaurant & Catering Clay Art Studio Corfini Gourmet Cottonwood Winery of Oregon Crispin Cider Company Cutco Cutlery David Hill Vineyard & Winery Davis Street Tavern Deco Distilling DiStefano Winery Dry Fly Distilling Duck Pond Cellars Dukes Family Vineyards EdenVale Winery Embroidery Expressions Ensemble Cellars Eola Hills Wine Cellars Eugene Wine Cellars Evergreen Vineyards Fetzer

Fetzer German Sausage Forgeron Cellars Foris Vineyards Winery Gifford Hirlinger Gilbert Cellars Gilstrap Brothers Winery Girardet Girly Girl Gifts Girly Girl Wines Glen Fiona Hama Hama Oysters Harmony Jack Farms Hawkins Cellars Henry Estate Winery Hoegarrden HV Cellars Ingallina’s Box Lunch J. Scott Cellars K Vintners Katie Jeans Jewelry Kenwood Vineyards Kestrel Vintners Kiona Vineyards & Winery Kontos Cellars Korbel Kramer Vineyards

Laurelwood Brewing Company Leffe Little Black Dress Mahatma Rice Marshal’s Winery McCormick Family Vineyards Melrose Vineyards Mercer Estates Michael-David Winery Mitchell Wine Group Mt. Hood Meadows Mt. Hood Winery Noble Pig Vineyards & Winery Odisea Olsen Estates Oregon Rain Organic Nation Perfect Puree Pheasant Valley Winery PhoenixMedia, Inc Plainfields Place Portland Trail Blazers Professional Platinum Cooking System Quady North Quenett Winery Rex Hill

RingSide Steakhouse Seafood Oregon Seven of Hearts - Luminous Hills Silver Lake Winery Soireé Stella Artois Superfly Distilling Company Sweet Briar Farms Sweet Valley Wines Tertulia Cellars The Glass Garden The Original: A Dinerant The Pines Toast Urban Farmer Valley of the Moon Winery Vista Balloon Adventures, Inc. Walnut City WineWorks Washington Wine Works Waving Tree West Café Wildwood Winter’s Hill Vineyard Wy’East Vineyards Youngberg Hill Vineyards Z’ivo

The Northwest Food and Wine Festival • November 13 • 4-8pm


Mt. Hood Meadows is Oregon’s premier and most popular ski resort. It’s awesome terrain provides excitement for all ability levels, and the staff keeps the experience fun and fresh, turn after glorious return. Meadows ski school specializes in new adventures.

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Brewing Oregon’s first certified organic beers — and a host of other tasty brews — we’ve garnered lots of awards — including Champion Brewery at the 2004 World Beer Cup. Join us at any of our five Portland area locations for great food and handcrafted beers. All Laurelwood Public Houses are non-smoking and family friendly.

www.laurelwoodbrewpub.com

Alaska Airlines and Horizon Air are proud sponsors of the Northwest Food and Wine Festival. Together, we fly more than 90 flights a day and serve 29 destinations nonstop, including our new service to three Hawaiian Islands. You can book your flight or learn more at our site made especially for Portland,

alaskaair.com/pdx

Earn double miles December with yet PDXextra from Alaska. for Portland travelers. up on Paradise!

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Pairing is not just for wine. Beer and Food is also an excellent choice. The crisp, dry flavor of Stella Artois makes it an ideal accompaniment for a variety of cuisines from around the world. The mild malt and light hops of Stella Artois accentuate the richness of dishes such as lamb, lobster and shellfish without overwhelming the balance of flavors.

Corfini Gourmet is a Northwest based company with distribution locations in Seattle and Portland. We are dedicated to supplying the best local, natural and sustainable meats as well as locally grown game to restaurants and retail markets throughout the Pacific Northwest. Corfini prides itself on supporting and working with a variety of local farmers like Thundering Hooves Grass-fed Beef, Duck Haven Farms Game, Cattail Creek Lamb and Mad Hatcher Poultry & Game. For a complete list of all our suppliers, please visit our website at www.corfinigourmet.com

charliesproduce.com

And Our Suppliers

Northwest Spirits — Pour Them In Your Drink! Sponsored by

and

The Oregon Bartenders Guild was established as a nonprofit organization to advance the reputation of Oregon’s premier craft bartending trade. Over the last several years the OBG and its members have also been deeply involved in the community raising almost $40,000 for various nonprofit agencies. By doing this it is our hope to bring the high standard of Oregon’s reputable bartenders, distilleries, wineries and breweries to national attention.

Watch the $1000 Winner-Take-All Holiday Cocktail Contest! Silent Auction for Charity Benefitting Make It Better Fund The Portland Trail Blazers basketball season tipped off on October 26th. Tickets are selling fast and inventory is limited for some games. To guarantee your seats to the biggest games, buy a 10-game quarter season package today. Call 503.797.9600 or visit trailblazers.com to secure your seats.

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desserts / CONt.

Chocolate Gingerbread With Cacao-Nib Whipped Cream Makes one 9-inch round cake, or 8 servings

Whipped cream 2 cups whipping cream ¼ cup premium cacao nibs, chopped into small bits (see note) 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, or more to taste Pinch of salt Gingerbread 2 ounces dark chocolate, chopped ½ cup unsalted butter, cut into pieces (1 stick) 1½ cups all-purpose flour ⁄3 cup granulated sugar 1

3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa

58

¾ teaspoon ground allspice ½ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons peeled and minced fresh ginger 1 ⁄3 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar 1 ⁄3 cup dark honey, at room temperature or slightly warm

1 egg, at room temperature, lightly beaten 1 ⁄3 cup buttermilk, at room temperature

Powdered sugar for dusting (optional)

To make whipped cream: At least 6 hours before serving, in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the cream, nibs, sugar and salt, and bring the mixture to a gentle boil. Remove from the heat, cover and steep for 30 minutes. Strain the cream through a fine-mesh sieve and discard the nibs. Cover and refrigerate the cream for at least 5 hours or up to 2 days. When ready to use, whip the chilled cream until soft peaks form. To make gingerbread: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly butter and flour (or dust with cocoa) a 9-inch round cake pan. Place the chocolate and butter in a large heatproof bowl and set in a wide pan or skillet of hot water. Set aside for 5 minutes, stirring 4 or 5 times, and let it melt completely. Stir occasionally until the mixture is smooth and cools slightly. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, cocoa, allspice, baking soda and salt until well blended. Stir in

the minced ginger until coated and evenly distributed. To the bowl containing the cooled chocolate mixture, add the brown sugar and honey and stir until blended. Add the beaten egg and mix until blended. Mix in the buttermilk, scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl as necessary. Add the dry ingredients in several additions and beat until just blended and smooth. Do not overmix. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread evenly. Gently rotate the pan to settle and level the batter. Bake until the gingerbread is springy to the touch and a tester inserted in the center comes out with a few moist crumbs

clinging to it, about 40 minutes. Let the gingerbread cool on a wire rack for 20 minutes. Gently loosen the edges with a thin knife before inverting it onto the rack. Dust with powdered sugar, if desired. Serve warm with a good portion of the Cacao-Nib Whipped Cream. Note: Cacao beans are the beans used to make chocolate, and cacao nibs are produced by toasting and crushing the beans. Nibs are unsweetened, crunchy and intensely flavored. Nibs are available in many specialty supermarket baking sections (Scharffen Berger is a popular brand). — From Sara Perry photograph by beth nakaMura

Savouring Perfection

T

A CELEBRATION OF BELGIAN FLAVOR here’s a natural affinity between Belgian beers and fine food. Just as you might pair a dry Chardonnay with raw oysters or a Pinot Noir with an herb-encrusted beef tenderloin, the exceptional flavors of Stella Artois, Hoegaarden and Leffe complement a variety of cuisines. So the next time you’re planning a special meal, elevate it to perfection by choosing one of our fine Belgian beers to complement the occasion. Enjoy this taste of Belgium at The

Northwest Food and Wine Festival


 

             


Nob Hill neighborhood NW Vaughn St

3 5

Salt, Fire & Time is a Community Supported Kitchen that organizes a weekly pick up of prepared foods sourced locally. We also offer cooking classes and Friday night dinners open to the public. We focus exclusively on nutrient dense, organic foods that help restore your health and our own northwest food heritage. Also available for private parties and catering. Mention MIX and get a free fermented soda!

NW Thurman St

NW Quimby St

▲ N

NW Pettygrove St

1 NW Northrup St

4

1902 NW 24th Ave Portland OR 503-208-2758 www.saltfireandtime.com

Ave NW 21st

NW Glisan St

Ave

NW Irving St

NW 22nd

Ave NW 23rd

NW 24th Ave

Nature’s Pet Market offers Natural food for dogs and cats at affordable prices. We have a large selection of raw diets for dogs and cats, food, toys and treats for small animals. Take advantage of our frequent buyer program on all our dry food! Find your new companion! We house ready-toadopt cats from the Columbia Humane Society. This month only, if you spend over $30 you will get a 10% discount coupon for next time you are in. 111 NW 21st Ave Portland, OR 503.360.1244 www.naturespetmarket.com

NW Kearney St

7

2

ver sto We Rd

NW 22nd Place

NW

Looking for a gift that is unique and exciting? Come to Child’s Play! The Hoberman Sphere is just one of the thousands of extraordinary toys on our shelves. We can help you find the perfect present for a child of any age. Find us on Facebook by searching “Child’s Play Toy Store”!

NW Davis St

side

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Au Salon

To set an appointment please call 503.228.8363 Mention this ad and receive 10% off your service before Feb. 2011.

2075 NW Glisan Street Portland, OR (near the corner of NW 21st and Glisan) 503.222.1056 www.popehouselounge.com

Nob Hill Marketplace

Lunch, Dinner & Happy Hour Seven Days a Week

8

5

Food Front • Fine bourbon • Classic cocktails • Southern Cuisine

Serratto is a neighborhood restaurant serving authentic and innovative dishes from Italy, France and the greater Mediterranean region. Featuring a full bar and extensive wine list. Parking in our lot on NW Johnson St.

2112 NW Kearney St. Portland OR 503.221.1195 www.serratto.com

2305 NW Kearney St Portland, OR 503.224.5586 www.childsplayportland.com

6

1

Au Salon is a full-service Bumble and Bumble hair salon. We have been providing customized hair care in the Nob Hill neighborhood since 1996. We pride ourselves in educating our clients and providing a comfortable family atmosphere. We are now open 7 days a week!

Serratto

Child’s Play

NW Everett St

WB urn

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4

8

1211 NW 23rd Ave Portland, OR www.ausalon.com

6

3

Salt, Fire & Time

Food Front is NW Portland’s freshest source for local and natural foods including organic produce; fine wines; artisan breads & cheeses; fresh, local meats; and fair trade coffee and chocolate. Whether you’re looking for daily essentials or delightful indulgences, you’ll find it at Food Front, naturally. Open 8am-9pm Daily

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2375 NW Thurman St. Portland, OR 503.222.5658 www.foodfront.coop

To advertise in Marketplace contact Lindsay Grant at 503.221.8352 or lindsayg@sales.oregonian.com


Enter taining

winE

Northwest bottles for a foolproof Thanksgiving dinner By kATherINe cOle

For most adults, the holiday buildup brings responsibilities: booking plane tickets, shipping gifts, planning meals. We hope this issue of MIX will offer inspiration for the latter. But you can’t plan a meal with recipes alone, which is why we asked some local oeno-experts to offer a hand with wine selections. Since everyone’s Thanksgiving dinner commitment is different — you might be responsible for bringing the dessert but not an entree, or the wines but not the food — we’ve got a lineup of wines here that will accommodate any holiday moment, from hors d’oeuvres through leftovers. Our picks are all locally sourced bottles that boast of our burgeoning Northwest wine trade but won’t bust your budget. They’re all made in approachable styles that anyone, enthusiasts and pessimists alike, will enjoy. And they’re all food-friendly matches that you’ll want to have on hand throughout the season. So whether you’re doing a Tofurky roast or whipping up a pumpkin pie, serve these tasty local options to your friends and family. phOTOgrAph By SuSAN SeuBerT

61


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THE EXPERTS: katherine cole, wine columnist, MIX and The Oregonian randy goodman, owner, Bar Avignon, baravignon.com Timothy Nishimoto, owner/sommelier, Vino paradiso, vinoparadiso.com hazel Sikorski, assistant wine steward, Zupan’s Burnside, zupans.com courtney Storrs, co-owner, Noble rot, noblerotpdx.com

THE winES: TO TOAST wiTH 2006 Argyle Willamette Valley Brut ($26) Whether you decide to toast the arrival of your guests or the success of the turkey, this richer-than-usual homegrown sparkling wine will stand up to the task. That’s because the warm 2006 harvest season produced ultraripe fruit in the Willamette Valley, which means that this vintage of Argyle’s classic bubbly is more voluptuous than usual. Its crab apple-pie opulence will bring a flavorful contrast to a pre-dinner pâtÊ or midmeal brined turkey, while its shimmering mousse will slice through the mouth-coating texture of mashed potatoes. Notes of roasted lemon and white pepper would work alongside stuffing, too, and its vanilla-tinged creaminess even makes it a candidate to try alongside dessert. Better buy a few bottles and sip this sparkler throughout the meal. I intend to.

TO START wiTH 2008 Buty Columbia Valley Semillon, Sauvignon, Muscadelle ($24)

phOTOgrAph By DOug BeghTel

hazel Sikorski was mulling over the meaning of Thanksgiving — being with family, giving thanks — when she thought about the most recent time she saw caleb Foster. “his two children were climbing all over him as he was working. he is such the vision of a loving

father,� Sikorski recalls. “And his wife, Nina, is so grounded. They are really intelligent, focused, family-oriented people.� It was clear to Sikorski that she had to recommend one of the Fosters’ Buty wines from Washington for Thanksgiving. And the one she picked is — yes, she said it — “really beautiful.� A Bordeauxstyle white blend of semillon, sauvignon blanc and muscadelle, it’s vinified dry. “The sauvignon blanc lends it a citrus and acidic background; the semillon is flowery, with a creamy texture; the muscadelle brings in aromatics and honeyed notes,� Sikorski says. “The texture is at once supple and seamless.� Sikorski and her husband like to drink this Buty with citrus-accented mussels, but on Thanksgiving she’ll serve it with an hors d’oeuvre course of raw oysters, then keep it on the table to match her homemade cranberry relish, as well as sweet potatoes. “It’s a modern and stylish twist on a traditional blend. I think that’s very appropriate for celebrating the holidays,� Sikorski says.

wiTH TURKEY 2008 Anne Amie “CuvĂŠe Aâ€? Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($23.25) “I love doing a deep-fried turkey,â€? Timothy Nishimoto admits. “It literally takes 45 minutes and it just locks in the juiciness of the bird. And I love meat, so I like to make a sausage-and-rosemary


NV Brooks “Tethys� Willamette Valley late-harvest riesling ($21 for a 375-ml half-bottle) randy goodman admits that he doesn’t do his own baking on Thanksgiving because Bar Avignon chef Jeremy eckel makes such a fine pecan pie: “It’s not overly sweet — he doesn’t overdo the bourbon or sugar — and then he finishes it with a little bit of portuguese sea salt.� It’s the ideal dessert for goodman, who likes to end a meal on a note of restraint. Which is why he likes the Brooks “Tethys� late-harvest riesling so much. “A lot of people would serve tawny port with pecan pie, but this is a lot more refreshing and light. It has white peach and honey and also a little tiny bit of petrol minerality in the nose,� says goodman admiringly. “And the key thing is that it has a really good acid backbone and it’s really well balanced — it comes across as drier than it really is.� An ardent admirer

wiTH LEFTOVERS 2006 Heydon Road “CuvĂŠe Adam Doernerâ€? Umpqua Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) “Thanksgiving is the Storrs family’s biggest holiday,â€? reveals courtney Storrs, who coowns Noble rot along with her chef-husband, leather, and fellow wine maven kimberly Bernosky. “We eat all day and then we go back to leather’s mom’s house the next day for an extended eat-athon, where we make sandwiches and deviled eggs.â€? The key to a turkey sandwich, says Storrs, is something sweet, such as chutney or a leftover dollop of cranberry sauce. Throw some bacon in there and you’ve got a delicious contrast of savory and sweet. The “super-brightâ€? heydon road cab, with its “raspberry cedary nose,â€? makes the ideal match, says Storrs, because it’s “not oaky.â€? rather, it’s lighter-bodied than most cabs, the kind of wine you could drink “even without food.â€? Its light touch is a relief when your taste buds are still in recovery mode: “We all get sick of the cloying dark rich stuff after a while,â€? says Storrs. It’s also a wine with a history, which will give the family something to discuss while digesting: The second label from hillcrest, Oregon’s oldest estate winery, it’s made from dry-farmed estate vines planted in 1964 and fermented in concrete vats. Named in honor of Adam Doerner, the umpqua Valley’s first fine winegrower (who planted a still-extant vineyard in 1888), this is the real deal.

63

                  

wiTH DESSERT

of Oregon riesling, goodman digs the fact that this wine is sourced from biodynamically farmed local grapes. he sees the “Tethys� as a sort of gustatory rapprochement that will unite the wine geeks with the sweet tooths: “A little sip of this will be something that everyone will love.�

         

stuffing. I also really love to do a prime rib with Thanksgiving dinner.â€? One would expect a man of such manly tastes to recommend a brawny red such as a cabernet sauvignon to match his ideal meal. But one would be wrong. “A heavier red would definitely overwhelm turkey and stuffing,â€? Nishimoto says. Instead, he prefers a well-balanced Willamette Valley pinot noir that will impress your out-of-town guests without breaking the bank. And that will finesse the finer points of the meal, such as the white slices of meat. “What I like about the cuvĂŠe A is that it’s fruity, but it has body. It’s not one of those syrah-like pinots, but it’s not wimpy, either. It could go with steak,â€? the carnivore says. “But it could also go with cranberry sauce, or green beans.â€?

       


winE / COnT.

wHERE TO bUY: 2006 Argyle Willamette Valley Brut ($26) Fred Meyer Beaverton, Burlingame, gresham, hawthorne, hollywood West, Johnson creek, Northwest Best, raleigh hills, Sunset, Tigard and Tualatin haggen BeavertonTanasbourne Town center, Murray hill, Oregon city, Tualatin Zupan’s Belmont, Burnside, hayden Island, Macadam, raleigh hills Or by special order through Odom-Southern Distributors

Steak | Seafood | Cajun | More 64

Same me Great at Bar, Great at New w Location atio on on Sustainable

EarthWISE Certified

A Salem Original since 1979. Lunch M-F | Dinner M-S | Happy Hour Daily 3 - 6 pm & 9pm-Close

136 High St SE Salem, OR 97301 | 503-689-1051 On Salem’s Restaurant Row, next to the Historic Elsinore Theatre

www.myjonathansrestaurant.com

2008 Buty Columbia Valley Semillon, Sauvignon, Muscadelle ($24) lamb’s Thriftway in garden home liner & elsen Strohecker’s Zupan’s Burnside Or by special order through D’Vine Wine Distribution Inc.

2008 Anne Amie “Cuvée A” Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($23.25) Bales cedar Mill Thriftway Marketplace Foster & Dobbs Fred Meyer Northwest Best, raleigh hills, Tigard and Tualatin haggen BeavertonTanasbourne Town center lamb’s Thriftway in garden home New Seasons Market cedar hills and Mountain park pearl Specialty Market & Spirits Whole Foods Market laurelhurst Or by special order through Domaine Selections

NV Brooks “Tethys” Willamette Valley Late-Harvest Riesling ($21 for 375 ml) Allegri Wine Shop Bales Farmington Thriftway Marketplace Bar Avignon cork — A Bottle Shop, Alberta Fred Meyer Oregon city and raleigh hills New Seasons Market Arbor lodge Noble rot Market of choice West linn Sip D’Vine Or by special order through Oregon Brand Management

2006 Heydon Road “Cuvée Adam Doerner” Umpqua Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) Bar Avignon Barbur World Foods every Day Wine garrison’s Fine Wines great Wine Buys John’s Marketplace Market of choice Burlingame, West linn Mt. Tabor Fine Wines New Seasons Markets Arbor lodge, cedar hills, concordia, happy Valley, Mountain park, Orenco Station, Sellwood, Seven corners Otto’s Sausage kitchen & Meat Market renaissance premium Wines & cigars Strohecker’s The Wine cellar Zupan’s Belmont, Burnside, Macadam Or by special order through Independent Wine company


LAKE OSWEGO: Downtown

LAKE OSWEGO: Kruse Way area 4

A Ave

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1st St

2nd St

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PCC -Sylvania Campus

3

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THE ARTISAN CUSTOM FRAMING & GALLERY

Play Boutique

With more than 40 years experience, our creative and dedicated team will help you choose the perfect design to best enhance your artwork and compliment your decor. Using hand-cut mats, museum glass, and hundreds of unique all-wood or metal frames, we work to insure our clients complete satisfaction.

Dyke has as been creating custom gold and platinum jewelry since 1970. Along with a wide selection of Dyke’s custom jewelry, the showroom also features fine quality designer jewelry from around the world. We hope your visit to our showroom will be one of the most satisfying jewelry experiences you will ever have.

WE ARE NOT SATISFIED UNTIL YOU ARE! 267 A Avenue 503.635.4590 www.artisanframinglo.com

Hours: Tue-Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-4pm

Portland’s Only Olive Oil Bar® Store! Taste before you buy! The Oilerie® Lake Oswego is a fun and unique culinary experience. It’s a place to discover and sample the freshest, highest quality extra virgin olive oils, aged balsamic vinegars, and nut oils. Sample and taste, make your selection, then it’s hand-bottled for you to take home. Plus: a unique selection of specialty foods – balsamic sauces, pastas, rice, olives, dried mushrooms, and so much more. Need a gift idea? Come in or call us to help you create the perfect gift for any occasion! We also ship anywhere in the U.S. 438 1st Street • 503.675.6457 www.oilerie.com/lakeoswego.php Find us on Facebook

464 First Street 503.123.4567 www.playboutique.com

27 “A” Avenue • 503.636.4025 www.vandenburghjewelers.com 6

5

Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-4

Children learn. Parents connect. Families balance. The PLAY Boutique is an innovative space that offers a café, creative play, lifestyle & wellness services, enriching activities, and a profound sense of community. In addition to pre-school, we offer a myriad of options for newborn through grade school, including Skills Camps, Stay & Play times, Drop & Go times, Coffee Breaks, Happy Hours, and a host of seasonal activities for both parents and children. We also host themed birthday parties for kids of all ages.

Passed down from mother to daughter, family jewelry tells stories. The style may not be yours but you want to keep the emotional connection. At Trios Studio, we are experts at restyling family jewelry to reflect YOUR personal style. • Custom Design • Repairs • William Henry Knives Open Tuesday-Friday 10:30am-6pm Saturday 10:30am-5pm Oswego Towne Square At Mountain Park 503.496.1285 www.TriosStudio.com

7

World Class Wines Exceptional wines at exceptional prices. • Affordable wines from around the world • Friday night tastings • Private tastings by reservation • Conveniently located 269 “A” Avenue 503.974.9841 www.worldclasswinesoregon.com

Lake Oswego Marketplace

Add some flair to your life . . . change your lampshade and brighten your day! Approximately 9,000 shades to choose from. Bring in your Lamp for a Proper Fit. Restyling Accessories, Rewiring, Parts 15942 SW Boones Ferry Road 503.636.1884 www.naomislampsandshades.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Leah Davidson at 503.221.8300 or leahd@sales.oregonian.com


RALEIGH HILLS: Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. 1

217

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Snow Owl Designs

For over 40 years, Snow Owl Designs has been serving the jewelry needs of its clientele. Snow Owl Designs specializes in custom jewelry design, repairs, appraisals, diamonds, fabulous color gems & pearls along with general jewelry or gem advice. We’re always here to help. We carry one of the most unique & varied gem collections on the west coast and with our long experience have the knowledge to find almost anything you may desire. We look forward to making your visit a great one. 8116 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. Portland, OR 97225 503.292.8212

Maggie’s Boutique

Warm Mediterranean Atmosphere

With 7000 Sq Ft & 35+ quality dealers Robin & Wren is the westside’s newest antique shopping destination. We have a huge variety of vintage treasures. Paintings of many genres, lovely vintage clothing & accessories, shabby & elegant furniture, art pottery, collectibles & decor of all kinds. Our gift area stocks items from Caldrea, MOR, Voluspa, Aquiesse, Lilly Pulitzer, Claus Porto, ICU Eyewear, Harney & Sons Tea and more.

Mole Hole Studio

This year’s Saturn ornament with moon and star, for $23, and planetary key chain, for $6, are perfect out of this world gifts for the holidays. Fun, funky, and sparkly, the handmade star-struck ornament and keychain are from Green Mountain Glass in Massachusetts.

Three generations of Italian family dining expertise and tradition combine to give you the finest experience possible. Ernesto’s menu features traditional Italian favorites from our collection of family recipes as well as newer items. Our dining area is perfect for a special night for two or a family gathering. With a full bar, beautiful banquet rooms, delicious lunch buffet, a kids menu, complete catering services and to-go menus, you are certain to find something to please everyone.

Hours: Mon-Sat, 11:00-6:00 6800 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. Portland, OR 97225 503.505.9617 www.robinandwrenantiques.com

8136 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. Portland, OR 97225 503.799-2936 www.moleholestudio.com

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8544 SW Apple Way (East of Jesuit H.S. off Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy.) 503.292.0119 www.ernestositalian.com 6

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Restaurant & Lounge We know when we find jeans that inspire real women with real curves – in reg. & petite sizes – featuring SRS Technology ensuring Stretch, Recovery & Softness, slims the tummy, thighs & hips and gives instant lift to the derriere, we want every woman to try them on! Find them at Maggie’s Boutique! 4816 SW Scholls Ferry Rd Portland, OR 97225 503.297.1609 www.maggiesboutique.com

Join us at the Golden Crown of China Restaurant & Lounge for fresh, delicious Cantonese and Mandarin specialties, graciously served in beautiful surroundings. We are open for lunch and dinner and offer banquet facilities for up to 80 guests. Enjoy the ambience of our elegant dining rooms, or order from the extensive menu for carry-out. We can even provide private dining and party rooms for your special event! Our fullylicensed cocktail lounge features the fun of karaoke as well as a friendly and knowledgeable wait staff. The restaurant has been family owned and operated for 25 years. We hope to see you soon! 10655 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. Portland, OR 97225 503.626.7959 www.goldencrownrestaurant.com

The Human Bean Gift cards are a great way to show your appreciation or treat someone special! Stop by The Human Bean for award-winning coffee, espresso, fruit smoothies, granita, tea and much more! Three convenient locations to serve you! 8355 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy. Portland, OR 97225 503.505.9617 www.thehumanbean.com Also at: 2355 E. Baseline, Cornelius 998 SE Oak Street, Hillsboro

Beaverton Hillsdale Marketplace

Penelope’s Hope Chest Collectible holiday figurines from folk artist Lori Mitchell. Each figurine is hand-sculpted and painted with meticulous quality. Penelope’s has the best selection at remarkable values. Stop in to see our large display of holiday decorations. Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11am-5pm 4808 SW Scholls Ferry Road Portland, OR 97225 503.203.2533 www.facebook.com/penelopeshopechest

To advertise in Marketplace contact Sharon Fleming at 503.221.8263 or sharonf@sales.oregonian.com


Enter taining

cocktails

Back to bar basics BY ASHleY GArtlAnd

Holiday parties without booze can be a bit of a bore. Yet most of us tend to fall back on a cooler stocked with beer and soda to quench our party guests’ thirst. Sure, we like the idea of serving sophisticated cocktails, but setting up a home bar, not to mention learning to use it, can be a daunting, time-consuming and sometimes costly task. We say go for it anyway. Any upfront efforts to set up a bar at home and perfect your mixing and shaking techniques will pay off the instant guests arrive. And we’re ready to help by offering the tips of the trade you need to streamline your education. Armed with advice from Portland’s bartenders and caterers, raising the cocktail bar at home just got easier. You can retire that tacky plastic $9.99 icebox now. PHotoGrAPH BY fredrick d. joe

67


cocktails / cont.

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The Bartender’s Toolbox Setting up a basic home bar requires just a few tools, and they needn’t be fancy to get the job done. they do, however, need to be functional. Here’s our list of essential bartending tools that keep function and affordability in mind.

the jigger A good jigger makes accurate measuring — and balanced cocktails — possible. it may look simple, but using a jigger correctly can pose a challenge to new bartenders. “one of the things people don’t like about jiggers is that it takes some technique to fill a jigger right to the top. then you have to pour, and a lot of people have trouble with that process,â€? says lincoln’s co-owner and bar manager david Welch. for this reason, Welch recommends buying oXo’s mini stainless steel angled measuring cup rather than an actual jigger. it measures from 2 ounces all the way down to Âź ounce and has head space so you don’t need to fill it to the rim. “it has room to keep your liquor in the measuring cup,â€? he says.

the julep strainer (a wide, shallow spoon with holes) or the Hawthorn strainer (a flat version of the julep strainer ringed with a spring around the edge). Both work well with a Boston shaker set.

the cocktail spoon A good bar spoon is an essential tool to keep on hand for guests who like their cocktails stirred, not shaken. those ubiquitous red-tipped metal bar spoons work just fine, but if you’re a connoisseur of stirred cocktails, laurelhurst Market’s bar manager evan Zimmerman recommends investing in the higher-quality european- or japanese-style

68

tip / Rent-a-glass

the shaker Most professional bartenders endorse the two-piece Boston shaker set, which consists of a glass pint glass and a metal cup that fits tightly over the pint glass. the versatile duo lets you stir cocktails in the pint glass or slip the tin over the top of the glass when drinks need a good shake.

the strainer Home bartenders have their choice of two types of strainers,

Short on shopping time or lacking storage space? consider renting glassware for your next party. though party rental services such as Peter corvallis Productions and the Party Place typically work with professional caterers, they can outfit you for a small gathering as well. “renting is a great option if you’re hosting a large party and want to pretend you have really nice stemware or at least matching stemware,� says caterer and cooking instructor louisa neumann. “Most party rental companies offer something for every budget. the party rental company that i use (West coast rentals) offers over 22 different shapes and styles of glasses, everything from punch cups and cosmo glasses to highballs and irish coffee mugs.�


spoons, which have better weight and balance, available through cocktailkingdom.com. “it’s like the difference between an iPod and a Walkman,� he says.

the juicer Because fresh citrus juice is a key ingredient in a good cocktail, every home bartender should own a juicer. Spirits writer and james Beard awardwinning mixologist dale deGroff recommends finding a model large enough to juice a grapefruit without making a mess.

the muddler When you’re planning to add fresh herbs or fruit to a cocktail, using a muddler

to mash before mixing helps coax the essential oils and flavors out. Skip the fancy metal models and stick with wood when it comes to your muddler. Metal muddlers might look cool, Welch says, but they’ll crack your glassware. A standard wood muddler gets the job done and leaves glasses intact.

if you love the look of toddy mugs and poussecafÊ glasses, by all means build a collection of glassware. But home bartenders really need to stock only two types of glasses, says june’s bartender kelley Swenson: an up-style glass and a rocks glass.

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Portland bartenders have a handle on pre-party planning that can make an evening go smoothly. As you scheme your next event, let their tips guide your preparations.

just because a bar filled with foundation spirits allows for a wide range of cocktails doesn’t mean you should offer a full bar. “if you pick three or four specialty drinks per night and you want to keep an open bar going, the chances of you having any fun are pretty slim,� Swenson says. instead, limit your cocktail menu to two or three classics such as a Manhattan or collins and then find one unique recipe that suits the occasion to offer alongside those drinks. You’ll reduce your workload and actually have time to enjoy your guests.

Pre-party practice Whether you’re planning to make classic cocktails or trying out a new recipe, it’s a good idea to dial in your technique and do a dry run through any

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the glassware

Party Prep 101 keep it simple

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experimental recipes well before guests arrive. And remember, it’s better to play it safe than to run the risk of serving subpar cocktails. “it’s always better to make good, simple drinks based on what you have at hand rather than try to experiment on your guests by playing with spirits you may not be familiar with or with recipes you’ve never tried before,� Zimmerman says.

Arrange your space Make a prep list for the bar and knock out as much work as possible before guests arrive. “You should set up a mise en place just like you would if you were in the kitchen cooking,� Swenson says. Get your garnishes ready, twists trimmed and glassware tidied and lined up so you’re set to start stirring and shaking when guests arrive.

Two days are better than one 69

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Hot Air Ballooning

cocktails / cont.

Newberg, Oregon

503.625.7385 vistaballoon.com

>>SUBSCRIBE AT MIXPDX.COM         "      

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Ice Age All the booze in the city wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help you make a properly chilled cocktail. for that you need one of the most overlooked cocktail ingredients: ice.

the type Select your type of ice based on the drinks you plan to serve. Booze-heavy beverages need bigger cubes (to slow dilution) while drinks laced with citrus juice do well with regular ice cubes. Serving tiki-style cocktails and concentrated drinks such as mint juleps? crushed ice will chill the cocktails quickly and water them down to make them instantly drinkable.

the tools

   

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Professional bartenders have started carving their own ice and employing expensive ice-making machines to make superior cubes. there are, however, plenty of tools designed for home bartenders that will work just as well. to make basic ice cubes, pick up some flexible silicone â&#x20AC;&#x153;perfect cubeâ&#x20AC;? trays. they wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t absorb

freezer odors and they release cubes easily so the ice wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t crack. if you want to make large ice balls, look to the spherical ice tray set available through the Museum of Modern Artâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Web store (momastore.org).

the totals When prepping for a party, professional bartenders typically purchase a 7-pound bag of ice for every 750-milliliter bottle of liquor they expect to use. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You get about 12 drinks per bottle. So if you are planning a party for 12 and plan to make at least two drinks per person, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need 14 pounds of ice,â&#x20AC;? Swenson says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;then maybe throw another bag of ice on top of that just to make sure youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re supplied.â&#x20AC;?

PHotoGrAPH BY fredrick d. joe


Stocking the Spirits Home bartenders should fill their liquor cabinets with basic spirits, then supplement their stash with a few additional bottles based on what they like to drink. Here’s what you need to know before you hit the liquor store. Home bartenders should fill their liquor cabinets with basic spirits, then supplement their stash with a few additional bottles based on what they like to drink. Here’s what you need to know before you hit the liquor store.

Make the basics your building blocks Stocking a bar with foundation spirits — namely vodka, gin, whiskey, brandy, rum and tequila — allows home bartenders to make a wide range of cocktails without a huge investment. “it really isn’t necessary to have six different gins, twelve rums and 30 obscure liqueurs if you really only drink gin and tonics and daiquiris at home,” Zimmerman says. “i think having one of each of the basics is more than acceptable.”

Supplement your spirit shelf round out your spirit selection with mixers such as sweet and dry vermouth (freshness is essential with vermouth, so replace that dusty half-drunk bottle from college), triple sec or cointreau, a few bitters and soda or tonic water. then

purchase more esoteric spirits such as chartreuse or aquavit when you want to create signature drinks for different parties.

Set a budget When shopping for basic mixing spirits, a price range of $25 to $30 a bottle is sufficient, Zimmerman says. “You don’t want to buy rotgut swill, but then again you don’t want to be making whiskey sours with a 23-year-old bourbon that costs over $100,” he says. Sipping spirits, however, often merit a larger price tag.

ignore the label the best way to stock a bar on a budget, says Swenson, is to detach yourself from so-called premium brands and curate a list of spirits based solely on how they taste to you. “if you taste things and make sure they are up to your own standards, then the label shouldn’t really matter,” he says. embarrassed about buying a budget label? decant the spirit and hide the bottle before guests arrive.

71

PHotoGrAPH BY fAitH cAtHcArt

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mmodations Exquisite Accommodations Private Dining Great Location catio ation

cocktails / cont. A European Style Bed & Breakfast

Recipes: Six old-school classics

809 NE Evans McMinnville, OR 97128 800.441.2214 -or- 503.434.9016 www.a-tuscanestate.com

elebrate C the Bounty

of Thanksgiving! 2pm to 8pm

Special Thanksgiving Menu with Traditional & Seasonal Cuisine

17 to $25

$

New This Year! Aquariva Thanksgiving TO GO! 25 person

$

(Minimum 4 per order)

4650 SW Macadam Ave. Portland, OR 97239 503.802.5850

Grantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Martini ServeS one

1 long slice of lemon zest 2 ounces gin ½ ounce white vermouth Cocktail olives or onions for garnish

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Put slice of lemon zest in a large cocktail shaker and fill with ice. Add gin and vermouth and shake vigorously, then strain into martini glass. Garnish with cocktail olive or onion. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; From Grant Butler PHotoGrAPH BY rAndY l. rASMuSSen

Manhattan

Bloody Mary

ServeS one

ServeS one

2 ounces whiskey (bourbon or rye)

1½ ounces vodka

½ ounce red vermouth

3 ounces tomato juice 1 dash fresh lemon juice

Dash of Angostura bitters

½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Maraschino cherry for garnish

2-3 drops Tabasco or other hot sauce

In a large cocktail shaker filled with ice, add whiskey, vermouth and bitters. Shake vigorously, then strain into martini glass. Garnish with Maraschino cherry. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; From Grant Butler

Lime wedge and celery stalk for garnish

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large cocktail shaker filled with ice, add vodka, tomato and lemon juice, Worcestershire, hot sauce and salt and pepper to taste. Shake ingredients, then strain into an ice-filled old-fashioned glass with a salted rim. Garnish with a lime wedge and celery stalk. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Adapted from â&#x20AC;&#x153;Mr. Boston Platinum Editionâ&#x20AC;?


Perfect rob roy ServeS four

6 ounces Scotch whisky (Johnnie Walker Red or Black preferred) 3 ounces red vermouth 3 ounces white vermouth

In a large cocktail shaker filled with ice, add scotch, vermouth and bitters. Shake vigorously, then strain into martini glasses. Garnish with lemon zest. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; From Gary Nelson

          

Join us for open house Thanksgiving Weekend

November 26-28

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Dash orange bitters Lemon zest for garnish

Hessel Studios, Hand hammered copper candlesticks 5.5â&#x20AC;?-25â&#x20AC;?

A Gallery in the Country

Study Up

Fine Arts, Crafts & Gifts

for inspiration, research, cocktail recipes and basic know-how, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better place to look than this crop of must-read bartending books.

901 N. Brutscher St. Newberg, OR

The Joy of Mixology by Gary regan: though this tome is designed for professional bartenders, kelley Swenson recommends hobby mixologists use it as well. â&#x20AC;&#x153;for the basics on technique and basic recipes, bartending style and hosting, go with The Joy of Mixology,â&#x20AC;? Swenson says. The Craft of the Cocktail by dale deGroff: in this modern cocktail book, pre-eminent mixologist deGroff coaches readers on becoming master bartenders by providing a comprehensive spirit primer and solid, applicable recipes for the home bar. The Complete Book of Spirits by Anthony dias Blue: this ingredient handbook is david Welchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s go-to resource. â&#x20AC;&#x153;the cool thing about this book is that it talks about specific brands so you can start to learn about the difference between different brands,â&#x20AC;? he says.

503.538.1311 (near Fred Meyer)

www.yamhillsgallery.com Open Daily, 10am - 5pm

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The Savoy Cocktail Book by Harry craddock: Students of classic cocktails will appreciate this definitive cocktail book, which incorporates bar 750 sophisticated recipes for early 1900s cocktails from londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Savoy Hotel. Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails by ted Haigh: true cocktail connoisseurs will welcome the unique recipes and enlightening anecdotes about each cocktailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history, flavor and preparation documented in this book. Swenson recommends this book for hosts who want to impress their guests with unusual specialty drinks.

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74

November Events

Cottonwood Fine Wine Tasting at Red Ridge Farms Gift Shop November 13 & 14, 11am-4pm

Enjoy Cottonwood Wines, Durant Wines & Oregon Olive Mill Tasting November 26 & 27, 11am - 4pm Oregon Olive Mill at Red Ridge Farms. 5510 NE Breyman Orchards Rd., Dundee Hills

phil@cottonwoodwinery.com

503.572.9869

Sparkling wine Pared grapefruit zest

Best

In Portland!

Sandwiches & Salads, too. Let us feed your Football Sunday! 1708 E. Burnside Ave. 503.230.WING (9464) 4225 N. Interstate Ave. 503.280.WING (9464)

www.portlandwings.com

Strain into a champagne glass and top off with a float of sparkling wine. Garnish with a quarter-size piece of grapefruit zest. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; From Jessie Matthews

Note: to make grapefruit-infused gin, pare the zest from 2 grapefruits (cut away any white pith) and soak in a bottle of good-quality gin, such as House Spiritsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Aviation Gin. let the gin sit for 24 to 48 hours, then strain. PHotoGrAPH BY MotoYA nAkAMurA

Sazerac 1 sugar cube 2 ounces rye whiskey (Sazerac 6-year-old)

Rated â&#x20AC;&#x153;Clucktacularâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Grant Butler, A&E

fill a shaker with ice cubes and add the gin, St-Germain and rhubarb bitters. Shake vigorously.

2 dashes Peychaud bitters lemon peel twist Several dashes absinthe (trillium Absinthe from integrity Spirits, if you want to get local)

fill an old-fashioned glass with shaved or finely cracked ice. in a mixing glass, muddle the sugar cube with a little water. Add some ice, the rye, bitters and lemon peel; stir well until cold. then throw the ice out of the first glass, dash several drops of absinthe into the glass, and turn to coat well with the absinthe. now strain the cocktail into the frozen absinthe-coated glass, and serve with ice water on the side. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Adapted from â&#x20AC;&#x153;Imbibe: From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash, a Salute in Stories and Drinks to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Professorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Jerry Thomas, Pioneer of the American Barâ&#x20AC;? by David Wondrich ÂŁ


the holidays are coming... and

the forecast calls for ice.

Sherrieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jewelry Box

12425 SW Main St â&#x20AC;˘ Tigard, OR 97223 503-598-0144 â&#x20AC;˘ www.sherriesjewelrybox.com

Scenic Serenity Awaits You

Columbia Gorge Thanksgiving Weekend Wine Tastings November 24-28th, 2010

  

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Enjoy traffic-free touring as you relax in our friendly tasting rooms, sample new releases and soak in the beautiful Fall weather and views

Discover â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;A World of Wine in 40 Milesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; An hour east of Portland in the National Scenic Area.

For Winery Events, please visit our website:

www.ColumbiaGorgeWine.com





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77


Enter taining

going out

t’s Le ain! t te r n E Bellagio Interiors 145 A Ave, Lake Oswego

503.534.9842

Jacquelines’

Blossoming Lotus

FOUND & FABULOUS

distinctive, elegant décor for home & garden

76

WANT TO BE SERVED?

7763 SW Capitol Hwy ~ 503.244.1560

In the Heart of Multnomah Village

Meadery & Kombuchery Cheesemaking Classes & Supplies

Turkey dinner is a daily tradition at the historic Huber’s Cafe and it’s especially popular at Thanksgiving. Here are some other — maybe less traditional — options to consider, too. Beast 5425 N.E. 30th Ave. 503-841-6968 beastpdx.com Blossoming Lotus (for a vegan feast) 713 N.E. 15th Ave. blpdx.com

YAMHILL

OREGON

503.730.7535 www.kookoolanfarms.com

CUVÉE French Dining in the Oregon Wine Country Thanksgiving Weekend Lunch • Dinner 214 W. Main St., Carlton • 503-852-6555 www.CuveeDining.com

The Heathman 1001 S.W. Broadway 503-241-4100 heathmanhotel.com Higgins 1239 S.W. Broadway 503-222-9070 higgins.ypguides.net Huber’s Cafe 411 S.W. Third Ave. 503-228-5686 hubers.com Jake’s Famous Crawfish 401 S.W. 12th Ave. 503-226-1419 mccormickandschmicks. com

Paley’s Place 1204 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-243-2403 paleysplace.net Wildwood 1221 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-248-9663 wildwoodrestaurant.com

MAKE THAT TO-GO If you’re not into all that angst and prep, but still want to entertain ... PREPARED TuRKEy AND fIxINGS Fred Meyer Multiple locations fredmeyer.com Haggen Multiple locations haggen.com New Seasons Market Multiple locations newseasonsmarket.com Safeway Multiple locations safeway.com Whole Foods Market Multiple locations wholefoodsmarket.com

Zupan’s Markets Multiple locations zupans.com

Pix Patisserie 3402 S.E. Division St. 503-232-4407

ExCEllENT BREAD, DESSERTS AND OTHER SWEET TREATS

3901 N. Williams Ave. 503-282-6539 pixpatisserie.com

Back to Eden Bakery Boutique 2217 N.E. Alberta St. 503-477-5022 backtoedenbakery.com

Random Order Coffeehouse & Bakery 1800 N.E. Alberta St. 971-340-6995 randomordercoffee.com

Bipartisan Cafe 7901 S.E. Stark St. 503-253-1051 bipartisancafe.com

Sweetpea Baking Co. (Vegan) 1205 S.E. Stark St. 503-477-5916 sweetpeabaking.com

Dovetail Baking (Vegan) 3039 N.E. Alberta St. dovetailbakery.blogspot. com Grand Central Baking Co. Multiple locations grandcentralbakery.com Ken’s Artisan Bakery 338 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-248-2202 kensartisan.com Nuvrei Bakery 404 N.W. 10th Ave. 503-546-3032 nuvrei.com Pearl Bakery 102 N.W. Ninth Ave. 503-827-0910 pearlbakery.com

Two Tarts Bakery 2309 N.W. Kearney St. 503-312-9522 twotartsbakery.com

PHOTOGRAPH By fAITH CATHCART


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MIX Magazine November 2010  

Portland's Magazine of FOOD + DRINK

MIX Magazine November 2010  

Portland's Magazine of FOOD + DRINK

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