portland, oregon / march 2013
Eat • Drink • Get Out • Get Together mIXpdX.com
Our COmfOrt fOOd Issue
Italian dishes to feed your body and soul / p33
12 great WIneS For Under $12 / p26 march 2013
taKe a toUr InSIde cheF John gorham’S KItchen / p52
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“Comfort Me With Apples” may be Ruth Reichl’s motto, but I’m more of a “Comfort Me With Carbs” kind of girl. Sometimes, after a long, hard day, when I arrive home well after the rest of the family have had their proper dinner, I skip the option of reheated leftovers and head straight for my pantry, grazing on anything and everything grain-based — cookies, chips, crackers. I then finish this preamble with the main course: a bowl of cereal. Some of you might find this pathetic or just plain sad. To me, it’s just what I needed. Everyone, the world over, finds comfort in food. But which foods qualify as comforting is a very individual thing. Just look at the chefs’ concoctions on Page 12. Not everyone craves pickled herring on white bread or Grape Nuts on ice cream.
kitchen of John Gorham, one of the city’s comfort-food masters, and a peek into the mind of Ken Forkish, one of the city’s best bakers. And on Page 44, you’ll find a dinner party where much-needed comfort is found not just in the food, but in the company, too. Because it’s not just what we eat that can soothe our weary souls, it’s the act of eating together. But therein lies the beauty — eating is both universal and intensely personal at the same time. For our second annual comfort food issue, we took my predilection for carbs and ran with it. Sure, it’s a subject close to my heart, but pasta, doughnuts, big buttery biscuits and rice every which way are pretty popular cravings. We also give you a glimpse into the
Danielle Centoni, editor email@example.com PHOTOGRAPH by MOTOyA NAKAMURA
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march 2013 The pleasures of pasTa Eggy noodles, pillowy dumplings, rustic sauces. Fill your bowl with these warming Italian dishes / Page 33
9 Five favorite doughnuts, s’mores fire pit, unbreakable French press, chefs’ secret snacks, unexpected beer taps
15 Good for you: Juice cleanses 18 scene: 10 worldly rice dishes 24 Technique: Pro secrets for perfect biscuits
26 Wine: 12 wines under $12
28 KiTchen: Chef John Gorham’s ingenious solutions 44 dinner parTy: The healing power of food and friends
51 calendar: What to do and where to go this month 52 i.d.: Getting to know bread guru Ken Forkish On The COver: Plump handmade cappelletti floating in golden chicken broth make a simple, sublime meal. PhOTOGrAPh BY dinA ÁvilA
PhOTOGrAPh BY dinA ÁvilA
mIX is 10 issues a year! It’s easy to subscribe online — go to mixpdx.com and click on “subscribe.” You can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixpdx.com, so get clicking and start eating.
Guess Who’s Coming? We’ve set the table. You bring the food.
The Food For Thought Festival presented by Jewish Federation of Greater Portland will make you think, laugh, listen, eat and maybe even dance. Throughout the city, we’re bringing together noted writers, thinkers, artists and performers to share their wisdom and their work. We invite you to join us in celebrating culture, literature, food and music. And be sure to bring a donation of non-perishable food for the Oregon Food Bank. For ticket information and a complete schedule of events, please visit FoodForThoughtPDX.org
April 18-21, 2013
503.245.6219 | www.jewishportland.org
OREGON FOOD BANK
From left to right: Amy Ephron, author, David Steinberg, comedian and TV director, David Javerbaum, Daily Show alum, Giuliano Hazan, chef, Yael Kohen, author and expert on women in comedy, David Sarasohn, columnist, Laurel Snyder, children’s author
contributors Dina Ávila is a Portland-based freelance photographer specializing in food, restaurants, interiors and portraits. Dina uses natural light to lend a rustic and candid feel to her food and subjects. For this issue, she captured the luscious beauty of five Italian dishes, and the chefs who created them, beginning on Page 33. “Who knew this would become one of the most-fun shoots thus far in my career?” she says. “There were four of us working in my very tiny kitchen/ studio over steaming bowls of pasta and red sauce-stained countertops.” Her photos have appeared in local and national magazines including Food & Wine, Portland Monthly and 1859 Magazine. Dina is also a staff photographer for Eater PDX.
If writer kerry newberry could hop on a plane tomorrow, she’d head to Italy. “A delicious plate of pasta or a perfectly made meatball always spark my wanderlust,” she says. “I’d love to visit the tiny kitchens and restaurants where silver-haired nonnas make rustic dishes passed down through generations.” In this issue of MIX, she fed that craving by seeking out comfort fare with Italian soul from some of Portland’s top chefs (Page 33). When she’s not diving fork-first into Italian dishes, Kerry writes for publications such as Edible Portland, OPB, Forbes and more.
other contrIbutIng WrIters: LuCy BurninghAM, grAnt ButLer, Liz CrAin, AshLey gArtLAnD, ivy MAnning, MiChAeL russeLL, trACy sAeLinger, rAeCheL siMs, Jen stevenson
A Portland native and recent graduate of Indiana University, writer taylor smith has had a passion for the family table ever since she was tall enough to steal slices of fresh watermelon from it when her mother wasn’t looking. She loves sharing people’s stories, and as a features reporter for the Hillsboro Argus, she gets to indulge in her passion on a regular basis. In this issue, Taylor shares her own story of how weekly dinners with friends helped her cope with the loss of her parents. “Around the table is where I began to heal. I couldn’t imagine a better place to show love to those around us.” See Page 44.
other contrIbutIng photographers/Illustrators: thoMAs BoyD, reeD DArMon, Mike DAvis, torsten kJeLLstrAnD, MeLissA’s proDuCe, Beth nAkAMurA, MotoyA nAkAMurA, wenDi norDeCk, rAnDy L. rAsMussen, riCk sADLe
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where to finD the reCipes in this issue: Drinks • The Mantra, p17 • Liquid Sunshine, p17 Appetizers AnD BreADs • Arkansas Artichoke Dip, p47 • Lauretta Jean’s Biscuits, p25 soups • Cappelletti in Brodo, p36 entrees • Meat and Cheese Loaf, p49 • Fresh Pasta With Mushroom Soffritto, p40 • Gnocchi With Gorgonzola Cream Sauce, Bacon and Arugula Salad, p39 • Bucatini With Meatballs and San Marzano Tomato Sauce, p34 • Ricotta Gnudi With Lamb Bolognese, p43 siDe Dishes • Dad’s Brussels Sprouts Gratin, p48 • Swedish Roasted Potatoes, p47
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Dessert • Garney’s “Coffee” Cake, p50
onLine extrAs At MixpDx.CoM video: Watch Kate McMillan of Lauretta Jean’s make her impossibly flaky biscuits Read more of our interview with Ken Forkish of Ken’s Artisan Bakery MArCh 2013 MIXpdX.coM
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5 doughnuts to drool over
churros, zeppole, gulab jabun — the world loves fried dough. that’s why our comfort food issue wouldn’t be complete without a list of our favorite bites from doughnut shops around town, from the buzzy new Blue Star to old favorites like tonalli’s. cakey, raised, filled and glazed, here are the doughnuts we can’t stop craving. — Danielle centoni
PB&J at Blue Star Donuts Made with brioche dough and thoroughly dusted with sweetened dehydrated peanut butter powder, these are a very cheffy (and much more balanced) take on the traditional jelly doughnut. what else would you expect from a doughnut shop with an open kitchen and a shelf of cookbooks that includes “larousse Gastronomique”? 1237 S.W. Washington St., 503-265-8410
Maple Buttermilk Bar at Coco Donuts Finally! a buttermilk bar with the rich tang of actual buttermilk. with a fluffy yet cakey interior and a perfectly balanced maple glaze, this donut is like the world’s best pancake. in fact, we might just retire our griddle. 2735 N.E. Broadway, 503-477-9824 814 S.W. Sixth Ave., 503-505-4164 709 S.W. 17th Ave., 503-360-1456 cocodonuts.com
Apple Pie Donut at Tonalli’s Donuts and Cream these chubby “pies” are made with the same dough as the family-owned shop’s tender, old-fashioned doughnuts, then filled with a delicious, non-goopy apple pie filling, fried and rolled in cinnamon-sugar crumbs. this has got to be the best nontraditional use of doughnut dough on the planet. it’s usually only available on weekends but can be special ordered. 2805 N.E. Alberta St ., 503-284-4510
Portland Creme at Sesame Donuts
Shown actual Size
the array of choices can be overwhelming at this old-school shop (open 24 hours and wellstocked with doughnut holes – finally!). But if you like cream-filled doughnuts, zero in on the Portland creme. the cool, creamy, nottoo-sweet filling plays nicely with the one-two hit of caramel and maple glazes on top. 6990 S.W. Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, 503-297-8175, sesamedonuts.com
Tex-Ass at Voodoo Doughnut Size is everything. Because this doughnut is as big as your face (really), it fries up differently – more yeasty and chewy, almost like sweet bread. and because there’s less glaze per square inch of doughnut, it’s perfect for those who like things a little less sweet. 22 S.W. Third Ave., 503-241-4704, 1501 N.E. Davis St., 503-235-2666, voodoodoughnut.com MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
Mellow out: Pine shed ribs’ MarshMallow roasting Pit Some of us would eat s’mores every day — if it weren’t for the campfire-building part. So it may be dangerous news that Pine Shed Ribs & Barbecue in lake oswego is opening a custom-designed outdoor firepit devoted to making s’mores. openings in the screenedin steel pit allow diners to roast marshmallows on long skewers provided by the restaurant, which will sell s’mores kits for $4. like everything else at this joint — literally a pine shed known for its hot pastrami and central california–style barbecue — the marshmallows will be made in-house, and house-smoked bacon will be available for topping. chef Matt Ramey plans to add an extra-tall patio cover to keep the pit going nearly year-round. “oregonians are pretty sturdy,” he says. — tRacy SaelinGeR Pine Shed Ribs & Barbecue, 17730 Pilkington Road, Lake Oswego, 503-635-7427, pineshedribs.com
stainless steel French Press a French press is one of the simplest ways to brew coffee, and usually one of the cheapest — unless you’re clumsy like me. after breaking carafe no. 3, i cut my losses and splurged on the unbreakable 36-ounce Frieling stainless steel French press. Modern and sleek, it gives my mornings a sense of style, no matter how ratty my robe may be. even better, its double walls keep my coffee hotter longer and its fine-mesh screen fits super tight, keeping even the finest grounds out of my cup. — Danielle centoni Available through online retailers and at Clive Coffee, 79 S.E. Taylor St., 503-784-3464, clivecoffee.com, clivecoffee. com
read this: real snacks
PhotoGRaPh By ReeD DaRMon
oreos, Ritz crackers, twinkies and Ding Dongs. one look at them takes us right back to high school — as in chemistry class. the ingredient lists are a litany of unpronounceable non-foods. to the rescue comes local photographer and cookbook author lara Ferroni, whose book “Real Snacks” (Sasquatch, $19.95) replicates our favorite junk foods without, well, the junk. though these Diy snacks lack the same instant gratification, they’re well worth the effort. — Danielle centoni
Pizza Nation of all the foods made in the world, pizza has got to be the most beloved. americans’ penchant for it is second to none. and the amount of pepperoni consumed on pizza alone is mind-boggling. check out these statistics: Total number of pizzas sold in the U.S. each year:
Total number of pizzas sold worldwide each year:
Pounds of pepperoni consumed every year from pizza:
252 million pounds
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
Slices of pizza that are eaten each second:
Percent of Americans who eat at least one piece of pizza per month:
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try these: cheFs’ guilty Pleasures
yes, even chefs stand in front of the fridge and eat straight from the jar. we got five to cop to some of their more particular penchants when they’re craving instant comfort. — tRacy SaelinGeR
Spoonfuls of almond butter with sea salt and hot fudge
Jenn Louis, Lincoln lincoln chef Jenn louis admits to bringing home a pint of hot fudge from work and drizzling it on almond butter, which she buys unsalted so that she can sprinkle it with her own flaky sea salt. “it hits all the right notes of sweet, salty, creamy and a little crunch,” she says. “it’s awesome.”
Rice cakes with melted cheese
Lisa Schroeder, Mother’s Bistro & Bar after working all day at downtown comfort-food mecca Mother’s Bistro & Bar — a place that dares to serve dishes like redpotato Breakfast nachos — it’s understandable that chef lisa Schroeder tries to be good at home. She often goes for rice cakes with melted cheese, but if she’s being really naughty on her day off, she treats herself to a hollowed-out everything bagel with cream cheese and the newspaper.
Vanilla ice cream with maple syrup and Grape-Nuts Tommy Habetz, Bunk Sandwiches and Trigger
a fan of ice cream with “almost anything,” chef tommy habetz says his usual combo is häagen-Dazs vanilla with maple syrup and Grape-nuts cereal. look out for a possible menu addition inspired by his late-night snack. he and fellow trigger chef Jimmy albee have been discussing various Grape-nuts uses in desserts, he says. and in case of emergency, habetz recommends keeping a secret queso stash on hand (texas queso is a cheese dip that, in its simplest form, is made with Velveeta and a can of Rotel diced tomatoes and chiles). “it has many applications,” says habetz. “you could go ‘healthy’ and dip some roasted or steamed broccoli in queso.”
Pickled herring on white bread with cucumber
Frozen pizza with arugula and bottled dressing
after a couple of post-work beers, chef aaron Barnett says he gets a craving for pickled herring sandwiches on white bread with cucumber and red onions. there’s something about the combination of sweet, savory and stinky fish he loves. “it’s best eaten late at night, over the sink, as far away as possible from my wife,” he says, “who gags at the sight of it.”
late-night beers are a post-work ritual for most chefs, and fried-chicken master adam Sappington says nothing goes better with a few cold ones than a frozen pizza margherita from trader Joe’s. to his credit, Sappington dresses up the pie with arugula from the farmer’s market, which he drenches with Bernstein’s italian dressing. “Bam! you’ve got yourself a bona-fide, late-night, true-to-form chef’s meal,” he says.
Adam Sappington, The Country Cat
Aaron Barnett, St. Jack
drink here: unlikely beer sPots instead of heading for the oh-so-predictable brewpub, where beer is a given, try these two spots that sneak beer into the mix. — lucy BuRninGhaM
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
Shell Stop and Go Mini Mart: From the outside, the Shell Stop and Go Mini Mart on u.S. 20 in Bend looks like the kind of place where you’d go for corn dogs and energy drinks, not 34 beers on tap, some of which are hard to find. the Growler Guys operates within the convenience station, filling growlers and pouring flights and pints (drink on-site under the two-pint-per-customer limit). Beers include some of the best from Bend’s booming brewing scene, as well as rare imports like chimay. Growler fills average $9 a pop. 2699 Highway 20, Bend, 541-3853074, thegrowlerguys.com
PhotoGRaPh By thoMaS BoyD
Velo Cult: this Portland bike shop is also a prime spot for drinking beer. Five rotating taps offer memorable craft brews and the occasional hard cider, plus there’s a good selection of bottles and cans. the bar and a 16-foot-long table made from a reclaimed 1950s bowling alley lane seem to slow time. hollywood neighborhood denizens and lycraclad commuters linger, playing chess, reading magazines and discussing hop profiles. Velo cult also hosts live music, movies and other events during the evenings. 1969 N.E. 42nd Ave., 503-922-2012, velocult.com
great Gorge Artists Open Studios Tour
escapes Spring Ski Vacation at Crystal Mountain Crystal Mountain, Washington’s largest ski area, is just 3 1/2 hours away. Home of the new Mt. Rainier Gondola. Stay at Alta Crystal Resort, Crystal’s only lodging with a heated pool and hut tub. Charming chalet suites and a romantic honeymoon cabin, just 10-15 minutes from the slopes.
April 12, 13 & 14
10am - 5pm
Spend your weekend exploring the Gorge and meeting 29 artists who live and work there. Visit glass artists, potters, weavers, painters, sculptors, jewelers and furniture makers - also see wildflowers and beautiful vistas. Tour map includes photos and a description of each artist’s work. FREE maps are available at Frame Central stores, Waucoma Books in Hood River and other locations in the Gorge. Like us on Facebook at: www.facebook.com/gaos.tour or www.GorgeArtists.org
North Umpqua River Steamboat Inn
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April 12th through 28th
photo by Michael Peterson
Celebrate the arrival of spring in style with a drive along the world-famous scenic Fruit Loop in Hood River, filled with blooming orchards of apple, pear, and cherry trees. A host of activities during Blossom Time make the celebration of spring a rich experience for visitors, including craft and quilt shows, pancake breakfasts, artist tours, beer and wine tastings, and more. 541-386-2000 hoodriver.org
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For more information, contact Trish Carter, 503-221-8595 or firstname.lastname@example.org
eat. drink. give. TUESDAY, MAY 7, 2013
McMenamins Crystal Ballroom | Portland, Oregon
Enjoy an evening with
75 of oregon’s best chefs, winemakers, brewers & distillers
as they come together to end childhood hunger. This year, Taste of the Nation Portland celebrates 26 years as Portland’s premier culinary fund raising event. Buy tickets today at: ce.strength.org/Portland
PHOTOS BY ANDIE PETKUS PHOTOGRAPHY
SPONSORED IN PART BY:
good for you
Spring cleaning: Juice cleanses can jump-start healthy eating habits
By Ashley GArtlAnd photoGrAph By Beth nAkAmurA
f the word “cleanse” calls to mind the strict Master Cleanse, with its liquid diet of maple syrup and cayenne-spiked lemonade, it’s time to readjust your views. In Portland, savvy juice companies and cafes like Portland Juice Press and Prasad are tapping into our rising interest in personal wellness and the region’s local bounty to make deliciously complex, nutritious juices customized for cleanses — and they’ll even deliver them right to your door. “The word cleanse can make people wary but it’s really just a way of eliminating foods you don’t need or want in your diet, and then giving your body easily digestible food or nutrition in their place,” says Dulcinea Ward, R.D. and owner of Pure Simple Juice. A typical
juice cleanse requires fasting for three to seven days while consuming only fresh, cold-pressed juices. Proponents say cold-pressed juices are nutrient dense, filled with enzymes, phytochemicals, vitamins and minerals, and they’re readily absorbed by the body. Living off such juices for three days, they say, can detoxify the body, leading to increased health and energy, improved concentration, radiant skin and a stronger immune system. It’s easy to see why juice cleanses have become popular in Portland, appealing to both health enthusiasts and those looking to offset their restaurant indulgences or break bad eating habits. And, let’s be honest, they’re also attractive to people who’re hoping to slim down for swimsuit season. MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
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Still, it’s important to remember that a juice cleanse isn’t a one-size-fits-all program or a quick-fix weight-loss solution. Nor is it something every health professional will endorse. “Currently there isn’t any scientific evidence to confirm that juicing is effective as a detox. There are plenty of testimonials, which is interesting, but there isn’t enough evidence to indicate that juice cleanses are the answer to better health,” says Jamie Lee, R.D., L.D. and owner of HealthFull Nutrition. In particular, Lee cautions clients against doing juice cleanses for weight loss purposes because they won’t have the tools or strategies to develop healthier eating habits post-cleanse. Other local nutritionists like Andrea Nakayama of Replenish PDX support juice cleanses, not for weight loss but as a way to jump-start healthy intentions and reset the digestive system. “It is an amazing clean-up because you get rid of all the inflammatory foods in your diet. People may feel amazing by taking foods like sugar, gluten and dairy out of their diet,” she says. “Then you are also getting lots of really fast nutrients from the juice. Despite these
WHen TO sTART dedicated juice cleanse disciples often begin cleanses during seasonal shifts. if you’re eager to try a juice cleanse this year, spring is a great time to start. “We consider juice cleanses like spring cleaning for your body,” says liz nolan of portland Juice press. “there is a feeling of clarification, simplifying and a general restart to life in the spring, and a juice cleanse can give you a feeling of lightness and more energy. it is a fresh start for your body.”
benefits, Nakayama recognizes that juice cleanses can also cause less desirable side effects. “There will be a period of detox if someone was eating a standard American diet and goes straight into a cleanse,” she says. “It could feel pretty crappy at first, but that detox is beneficial if they can wade through feelings of fuzziness and headaches. It’s beneficial because they are moving things out of their system.”
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CleAnsing TiMe these four local juice companies offer cleanses and juices that combine flavor, nutrition and convenience.
Kure Juice Bar With three locations and counting, this popular juice bar easily gets its organic juices to the masses. kure’s three-day cleanse includes fifteen 16-ounce juices; $104 (pickup) or $120 (delivery); kurejuicebar.com
Portland Juice Press portland’s newest juice company presses and delivers juice seven days a week. its three-day cleanse includes five juices and a hazelnut milk each day. $121.50 (pickup) or $165 (delivery); portlandjuicepress.com
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MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
this pearl district cafe offers its in-demand cleanses roughly once a month. the four-day cleanse includes five organic 16-ounce juices and a 12-ounce nut milk per day. $150; prasadcuisine.squarespace.com
Pure simple Juice this dietician-run company uses seasonal produce from local farmers to produce juices for its three- and five-day cleanses. if you’re an experienced cleanser, ask about their deep Green cleanse. $175 (three-day) or $275 (five-day) for standard cleanse; puresimplejuice.com.
To help diminish negative effects, Nakayama recommends easing into cleanses by decreasing (or eliminating) dairy, gluten, caffeine and sugar for at least a few days pre-cleanse. Likewise, it’s important to slowly return to a normal diet once a cleanse ends. Portland Juice Press owner Liz Nolan says, “After three days of just drinking juice, you might be craving red meat or french fries, but we recommend easing back into a normal diet by starting with whole grains, raw fruits and veggies, and raw nuts, and then slowly introducing meats and dairy.” One thing locals don’t have to worry about is finding nutritious juices and cleanse regimes that cater to individuals with excellent taste. Local options range from simple standouts like apple-carrot-beet to less expected combinations like an herbaceous blend of apple, basil, cilantro, cucumber and ginger. Many local juice companies round out their cleanses with teas, broths and nut milks to help keep you feeling satisfied from beginning to end. “You get these wonderful tasty products that you can drink throughout the day, and you don’t feel like you are depriving yourself,” says Ward of Pure Simple Juice. “And you don’t have to do any food prep – it’s all right there for you.” £
nate higgins at kure Juice Bar says it’s best to consume fresh-pressed juices right away, while the living enzymes and phytochemicals are still active. photoGrAph By rAndy l. rAsmussen
mAkes 2 servinGs (ABout 16 ounces)
mAkes 16 ounces
portland Juice press owner liz nolan says it’s best to drink this juice right after you make it, though it will keep for a day or two in the fridge. if desired, you can omit the cayenne pepper or adjust it to taste.
this best-selling juice blend from kure Juice Bar gets its bright flavor from ginger and orange juice.
5 medium carrots ½ apple, such as Gala and Fuji ¼ red bell pepper, seeded and stemmed ¼ head broccoli ⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
trim the carrots, apple, red bell pepper and broccoli stems and florets to fit into the feed chute of your home juicer (no need to peel). Juice all the produce, then whisk in the cayenne. serve immediately. Note: if you don’t have a juicer at home, nolan suggests replacing the apple with a splash of unsweetened organic apple juice and blending all the ingredients, including the cayenne pepper, in a blender. — Liz Nolan, Portland Juice Press
4 stalks kale, (leaves and stems) 2½ Braeburn apples, cored 1 gram fresh ginger Juice of 2 Valencia oranges Fresh lemon juice, to taste (about 5 drops) put the kale, apples and ginger through a juicer. combine this juice with the orange juice and lemon juice. serve immediately to enjoy optimal nutritional benefits. Note: nate higgins at kure recommends freezing the juice if it won’t be consumed within 24 hours. he says, while the flavor may still be acceptable after 24 hours, the living enzymes and phytochemicals are no longer active. — Nate Higgins, Kure Juice Bar
MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
Righteous Rice:10 favorite dishes from all over town By MICHAEL RUSSELL
It should surprise no one that rice, the world’s most popular dietary staple, finds its way into some fantastic comfort food. Still, the sheer variety of ways the grain can be simmered, sauced or served is eye-opening. We chose 10 of our favorite rice dishes, including authentic biryani, creamy risotto and fragrant congee, then set out to find the best local version of each. Acadia
Jambalaya at Acadia “Life’s like a big gumbo, the more you put into it, the better it gets,” reads the driftwood sign posted on Acadia’s mustard-colored walls. It’s a credo just as easily applied to the restaurant’s best-in-class jambalaya. Most of the week, the jambalaya here is made with pasta. But on Mondays (dinner) and Wednesdays (lunch), well-oiled rice competes for breathing room with house-made andouille sausage, tasso ham and chicken, all combined with a base of duckand bacon-fat simmered onion, celery and bell peppers. It’s almost too much. Then again, isn’t that what the good life is all about? Traditional rice jambalaya served Mondays at dinner and Wednesdays at lunch, 1303 N.E. Fremont St., 503-249-5001, creolapdx.com
Paella at Ciao Vito Whoever said, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks,” hasn’t eaten at Ciao Vito lately. This eight-year-old Mediterranean restaurant on Northeast Alberta Street has undergone a recent reinvention under new chef Jose Chesa, emerging as a home for some of the most colorful, inventive tapas in Portland. Chesa’s paella is superb, stocked with seafood-imbued Bomba rice, plump shrimp, arrowhead-shaped slices of chewy cuttlefish and — everywhere I looked — lumps of Dungeness crab. 2203 N.E. Alberta St., 503-282-5522, ciaovito.net
PHOTOGRAPH, ABOVE, By THOMAS BOyd, RIGHT By RAndy L. RASMUSSEn
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rice dishes, cont.
Sticky rice with mango ice cream at Chiang Mai Sure, fresh mango is one of the best sidekicks for sticky rice. But when the fruit is out of season, what’s a mom-and-pop Thai restaurant to do? If you’re Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard’s Chiang Mai, you top your wonderfully chewy rice (the texture always reminds me of marshmallows) with sweet condensed milk and several scoops of mango ice cream. The flavor is like a tropical breeze on a cold day. 3145 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., 503-234-6192, chiangmaipdx.com Risotto at Bar Mingo Not all risotto is created equal. At most Portland restaurants, you’re likely to find something more akin to fried rice or hard porridge than this ultimate Italian comfort food. But Bar Mingo is different, mostly because its risotto is made to order, and only available at specific times. That means on Wednesdays you’ll likely see chef Jerry Huisinga standing over a large pot, stirring stock and butter into fine carnaroli rice, each bowl emerging only when it’s done. Recently, that risotto — creamy without cream, with wonderfully al dente rice — held the subtle flavors of sweet fennel and stewed garlic along with melted mountains of Parmesan cheese. Servings at 6:30 and 7:30 p.m. Wednesdays, 811 N.W. 21st Ave., 503-445-4646, barmingonw.com
Kimchi fried rice at Jin Jin Deli Fried rice is sort of like bibimbap’s less graceful cousin. It’s leftover food, a way to polish off whatever went uneaten from dinner the night before. (As such, it’s also great hangover food, versatile and easy to make.) Still, you have to appreciate the Korean-style fried rice at Southeast Portland hole-in-the-wall Jin Jin Deli (in the same strip mall as My Brother’s Crawfish). There you’ll find glistening rice piled with mild kimchi, shredded nori and a crispy fried egg. 8220 S.E. 82nd Ave., 503-774-8899
EC Kitchen PHOTOGRAPHy By RAndy L. RASMUSSEn
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Chinese sausage pot rice at EC Kitchen The lights are brighter than a Taipei bubble tea parlor, the symphonic “Casablanca” film score is on repeat and the kitchen seems to cook one dish at a time, but there’s at least one great reason to make the trip to this outer Southeast 82nd Avenue restaurant. EC Kitchen’s Chinese- and Taiwanese-style dried sausages, made in a room behind the restaurant, are outstanding — head and shoulders above any store-bought product.
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rice dishes, cont.
Order the pot rice, a white ceramic bowl of steamed rice capped by copious slices of fivespice laden Chinese sausage and its earthier, pork liver-stuffed cousin. 6335 S.E. 82nd Ave., 503-788-6306, eckitchenllc.com
Congee at Kenny’s Noodle House The thing to order at Kenny’s Noodle House isn’t the noodles, it’s the congee. The Hong Kong-style porridge is made from rice slow-simmered with stock and spices until the grains have completely broken down (imagine a risotto left on the stove a few hours too long). When I was recovering from the flu earlier this year, Kenny’s congee was the only dish powerful enough to drag me out of bed. I ordered a bowl mixed through with roasted pork and chopped bok choy. Then, taking a cue from a pair of savvy regulars at the next table, I asked for a side of youtiao, Cantonese fried crullers to dip in it. 8305 S.E. Powell Blvd., 503-771-6868 PHOTOGRAPHy By MIKE dAVIS
Kenny’s noodle House Biryani at PDX Biryani Basmati rice, the signature ingredient of Indian biryani, demands respect. Brusque handling, or even just too much fussing, will do irreparable damage to its long grains. So it’s obvious from the moment you crack open a foil container from this twice-a-week biryani pickup service
that there’s some serious TLC going on. PDX Biryani’s long-fingered grains, delicately mixed with vegetables or meat marinated in a spice-cabinet’s worth of Indian aromatics, are shockingly delicate, alternating white and saffron yellow. In addition to bone-in chicken there’s a
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comfort food.” On the plate, springy, sushigrade rice is a bulwark against a heaping ladle of the slow-simmered carrot, onion, tomato and cumin-spiced curry. There’s a beef version and another covered in a slow-melted cheese cap, but I’ve never needed to venture beyond the heartwarming vegetarian. Neither will you. 900 S.W. Morrison St., 503-227-5253, kalepdx.com
vegetarian version with paneer. But my favorite is the goat, which adds its flavorful oil to the perfectly dry rice. Pickups Fridays and Sundays at KitchenCru, 337 N.W. Broadway; 503-664-0278; order at pdxbiryani.com
Japanese curry at Kalé Few chefs are as laser-focused on a single dish as Makoto Yoshino is on kare — the Japanese take on Indian curry, by way of Britain. At Yoshino’s cavernous downtown Portland restaurant, posters and brochures advertise the history and health benefits of the curry — “the ultimate Japanese
Saffron rice at Nicholas By the time this fluffy yellow rice arrives steaming under spice-rubbed meat or vegetable kebabs, I’ve usually had my fill of Nicholas’ fresh-baked pita, creamy baba ghanouj and caramelized onion-topped mjadra (a great rice dish in its own right). But there’s always room for this buttery, moist, saffron-suffused side dish, either mixed through with a bit of the 26-year-old Lebanese restaurant’s garlic-rich tzatziki or stained with juices from the grilled meat. It’s a meal in itself. 318 S.E. Grand Ave., 503-235-5123, nicholasrestaurant.com £
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Make Lauretta Jean’s biscuits at home
PhotograPhy by Motoya NaKaMUra
OnLinE EXTRa: Watch Kate mcmillan make biscuits and get the full recipe at miXpdX.cOm
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
By ivy manning
evoted fans of pie have been following Kate McMillan, the owner of Lauretta Jean’s pie shops, since she started selling her crusty, flaky, fruity pies at the Portland Farmers Market in 2011. The Lauretta Jean’s empire now includes two brick-and-mortar shops — a shoebox-sized corner cafe at Southwest Sixth Avenue and Southwest Pine Street, and brandnew digs on Southeast Division. Her pies are legendary, but McMillan’s biscuits — crispy on the outside with a downy, flaky center that tastes of sweet butter and tangy buttermilk — deserve just as much cult-like devotion. It’s a natural progression from pie dough to biscuits, says the pixy-like pastry chef. “The process is really similar: Cut cold fat into flour, add liquid and don’t overhandle the dough.” For superior flavor and rise, McMillan recommends European-style butter because it has a higher fat content than most grocery store brands, which yields a lighter, flakier crumb and richer flavor. She uses locally made Crémerie Classique unsalted butter at Lauretta Jean’s. The rest is all in the temperature of the ingredients and the deftness of the baker’s hands. McMillan advises home bakers to preheat the oven and measure out and combine all the dry ingredients first. “Keep the butter and buttermilk as cold as possible until you’re ready to use them. The colder the butter, the higher the biscuit will rise and the flakier it will be.” Once the butter is cut into the dough, don’t dilly-dally, advises McMillan. Work quickly to bring the dough together and don’t overhandle it. Once the buttermilk is added, it’s just a quick toss with a fork and a few turns with your hands in the bowl to bring the dough together. “It’s OK if the dough is a little crumbly. Don’t fuss over it too much, or you’ll end up with hockey pucks,” she says. McMillan prefers her biscuits with minimal adornment — just a bit of cold butter and homemade strawberry jam. But Lauretta Jean’s also serves biscuit and egg sandwiches, biscuits smothered in rich sausage gravy, and on weekends, biscuits served benedict-style with poached eggs, Otto’s smoked ham and homemade hollandaise. It’s a fittingly elegant finish for a humble but tricky baked good.
Combine 4 cups flour, 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder, 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon sugar in a food processor (or large bowl). Cut 1 cup butter into large chunks and add to the flour mixture.
Pulse about 20 times until the butter is the size of peas (or use a pastry cutter to cut 1 butter in by hand).
A PortlAnd trAdition Since 1994 “The classic Portland combination of elegance, informality and history.” - The Oregonian- A&E Diner
Dump the flour-butter mixture into a large bowl. Pour the buttermilk over it.
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toss with a fork until clumps form.
Using your hands, gently knead just until the dough comes together; do not overwork the dough or the biscuits will be tough.
turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and pat it into a rough rectangle about 1½ inches thick.
A PortlAnd trAdition Since 1892
Use a 2½-inch biscuit cutter to cut out the dough, dipping the cutter in flour to keep it from sticking. gather the scraps and lightly pat together to make a few more biscuits. Discard remaining dough.
Place the biscuits on the prepared baking sheet and brush tops with cream. bake until golden brown, 20 to 22 minutes. £
“For over a century, Jake’s has been attracting crowds with a remarkably simple approach: well-produced, uncomplicated seafood served by a friendly, knowledgeable staff.” - Willamette Week, Portland’s Best Restaurants
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DRINK A deal by the dozen: 12 wines for $12 or less By raechel sims.
henever my culinarily gifted partner whips up one of his stirfry masterpieces, I visit our neighborhood’s beloved Woodstock Wine & Deli to grab a bottle of 1) 2010 14 Hands Washington State Riesling. Balanced with a palatte of Granny Smith apple, Meyer lemon and SweeTarts, it perfectly pairs with the savory spice of our dinner — for a mere $10. It’s just one of the many
value wines out there waiting to be discovered. And that’s great news because, let’s face it, $12-and-less is the price-point most of us are shopping in — especially for our everyday wines. Trouble is, for every great bargain, countless more are not worth the glass they’re bottled in. Still, among what are easily dismissed as “cooking wines” and “wines I buy when Mom comes to visit,” lurk domestic treasures, international legacies and other hidden gems
that simultaneously earn praise from oenophiles and offer sweet, sweet mercy on our booze budgets. The trick is finding them. So we turned to three of Portland’s most exciting sommeliers to help us build a case of wines that would break neither our hearts nor our budgets. In addition to my local fave, inexpensive but wellmade bottles from France top the list, with offerings from Portugal and Spain rounding things out. Get to know these easy-to-love wines, and the savvy somms who picked them.
SAVANNA RAy | SOMMELIER, MERIWETHER’S RESTAuRANT “My love affair with wine started in 2004 with a bottle of Didier Dagueneau Pur Sang Pouilly Fumé,” Savanna says. “It transported me to a land of sunshine, wet rocks and lemon curd.” After coming up through some of Portland’s favorite restaurants, including The Heathman, Mother’s Bistro and Besaw’s, Ray received her International Sommelier Guild pin in 2007 and even became an instructor for the organization. Since then she’s taken the helm of Meriwether’s wine program in addition to joining the board of directors for the famed International Pinot Noir Celebration. 26
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3) NV Torre Oria Cava Brut, $8
2011 Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rouge, $12 A second label of the French Languedoc region’s famous Mas de Daumas Gassac, this blend of syrah, grenache, mourvèdre and carignan is “chock-full of dark fruit and spice.”
“I love cava because it’s made in the méthode traditionelle, so you get great quality sparkling wine for very little money. Almost always dry, cava is a great choice for drinking by itself, mixing into cocktails or making mimosasm for brunch.” Notes of spring flowers, white peach and a touch of yeast make this sparkler a superb value.
Available at The Portland Bottle Shop, Whole Foods and Market of Choice.
2011 Aliança Vinho Verde, $9 “It’s fruity, low in alcohol and has a lovely spritz. The direct translation of vinho verde is ‘green wine’ — because it’s always made in a fresh, youthful style.”
Available at New Seasons and Whole Foods.
Available at Market of Choice and Fred Meyer.
2010 Domaine de la Guicharde Côtes du Rhône, $12 A beautiful domaine in Provence, this grenache-syrah blend is “full of violets, dark rich fruits and lots of earth. It’s a great buy for those who like powerful, aromatic wines.”
Available at Great Wine Buys, New Seasons and Zupan’s.
JOSH WEISENfELD | WINE DIRECTOR, IMpERIAL AND pALEy’S pLACE For the past five years, Josh Weisenfeld has served as the exclusive wine director to one of Portland’s most revered chefs. Beginning at Paley’s Place in 2007 and expanding to oversee Imperial in late 2012, Weisenfeld’s lists offer the diversity necessary for pairing beside chef Vitaly Paley’s expansive culinary stylings. In describing his own personal “a-ha!” experience with wine, Weisenfeld remembers: “While drinking a 2003 Anne Amie Deux Vert Vineyard pinot noir and watching a beautiful sunset, the structure and fruit profile suddenly came through clearly, and the wine just made sense.”
NV Grand Imperial Rosé Sec, $9 This special bottling for Portland importer Lemma Wine Co. is refreshingly dry, with “nice berry fruit and a little toast,” says Weisenfeld. “Turn the heat up, open up a bottle and pretend it’s summer!” Available at The Wine Cellar and New Seasons.
2011 Château de l’Aiguillette Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, $10 Bright acidity and complex minerality make this wine “perfect for seafood and shellfish, or simply for sipping.”
Available at Vino Wine Shop, City Market and New Seasons.
2009 Domaine des Lauribert Côtes du Rhône Tradition, $10 “It’s no secret that Rhône reds offer great value, but many under $12 fall short. This wine gives you all the juicy, spicy richness you want in a Côtes du Rhône.”
Available at Cherry Sprout Produce and Fred Meyer.
2011 Els Guiamets Montsant “Mas dels Mets” Tinto, $9 “The region of Montsant combines an ancient tradition of viticulture with cooperative wine production to create grenache-based wines that are ripe, fruity and drinkable.”
Available at Great Wine Buys, Cork and New Seasons.
BRIANNE DAy | WINE DIRECTOR, RIffLE NW Brianne Day invested several years of her early 20s exploring major wine regions of the world — 64 of them, to be exact. “I’ve been to about 79 percent of the areas on Riffle’s list,” she admits. In between international jaunts, Day worked harvest gigs for Oregon’s more venerable pinot noir producers, including Brooks, Eyrie, Scott Paul and Willakenzie, on top of working at Gabe Rucker’s Le Pigeon and Little Bird to “fill a gap in my knowledge of restaurant work.” Not bad places to learn! Day assumed her role at Riffle NW in late 2012, after wrapping up harvest with John Grochau of Grochau Cellars. “My goal with the list at Riffle is to have something that speaks to each person who asks for my help in choosing a wine — to have the perfect wine for each of them.”
2011 Les Vignerons des Côtes d’Agly Carignan Vieilles Vignes, $11 “A lot of good values in France come from the Languedoc-Roussillon. This one is 100 percent carignan — brightly floral, with candied fruit and crushed rose petal on the nose.”
Available at Division Wines, Market of Choice and Zupan’s.
2011 Les Vignobles foncalieu picpoul de pinet Cuvée prestige, $11 “Juicy with lime and citrus zest, but full with a weighty mouth feel and crisp finish. It’s savory and luscious.”
Available at Great Wine Buys, Market of Choice and Zupan’s.
2010 Casa Santos Lima Bons Ventos Tinto, $8 Made of all native Portuguese varieties: castelao, camarate, tinta miúda and touriga nacional. “I love it because it tastes like every wine, served out of a little glass pitcher, at every tiny mom-and-pop restaurant in Portugal.”
Available at Woodstock Wine & Deli, Fred Meyer and the Portland Bottle Shop.
NOTE: Selection can vary at chain stores. If one location has the wine the other locations can order it.
For store contact info, visit mIXpDX.cOm MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
get together / kitchen
Chef makes the most of a small space By LIZ CRAIN photogRAphy By weNdI NoRdeCk
he first time I set foot in chef John Gorham’s home kitchen was right before Christmas 2011, when offers were starting to come in for the “Toro Bravo Cookbook” (due out from McSweeney’s this fall). John, his wife, Renee, and I sat at the 10-foot-long Virginia pine kitchen table and discussed publishing houses and deals. I remember thinking, this is a pretty small kitchen for such a big man and prominent chef, who owns three of Portland’s most talked-about restaurants: Toro Bravo, Tasty N Sons and downtown’s new Tasty N Alder. The 250-square-foot kitchen in John’s lower Willamette Heights, 1960s split-level ranch is teensy — the size of a typical apartment kitchen. But chefs learn quickly how to make the best use of kitchen space, and Gorham’s kitchen is a prime example of efficiency and practicality. Even his backyard fire pit is located just steps away from the kitchen door, making it easy to use as a secondary cooking source. “Just because you have a small space doesn’t mean you can’t make a kitchen that works well,” Gorham says. “Honestly, I think kitchens that are tight with close counters are often the ones that work the best. My kitchen functions really well.” I can personally attest to that. As his cookbook co-author, I spent a good deal of time testing recipes in that kitchen last spring and summer. It never felt too
MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
kitchen, cont. crowded even when three people were testing at once. “When we found our house there were lots of small rooms, which is typical of split-level ranches,” Gorham says. “We wanted an open feel to the kitchen and living room, especially since there wasn’t a lot of natural light in the kitchen.” So he got rid of the wall between the kitchen and living room and put a butcher-block counter in its place. This gave him more prep space, and he was able to jettison the bulky fridge and tuck two restaurant-style reach-in refrigerators underneath. Another space-saving solution: no vent hood. It’s the fan that does the work anyway, so he inset an exhaust
MIXpdX.coM August 2012
fan above the stove and hung pots on racks around it. While open shelving takes up most of the vertical space in Gorham’s modernleaning kitchen, there’s one standout piece that does double duty as functional wall art: an antique leather butcher belt kitted out with a wood and steel knife case. Able to hold eight to 10 knives, the belt belonged to his 8-year-old daughter Ruby’s great-grandfather, who was a butcher in Germany. When Gorham traveled there in 2007, Ruby’s great-grandmother gave him the belt to keep safe until Ruby is old enough to appreciate it. That’s a relic that he’s more than happy to make space for in his kitchen. £
Refinishing… Kitchen & Bath Remodeling Without Replacement! A ny decorator will tell you
kitchens and bathrooms are the most expensive rooms in a home to remodel. It’s because a big part of getting the new look means time-consuming removal and replacement of countertops, bathtubs, vanities and tile.
M iracle Method of Portland,
AFTER BEFORE surface refinishing process eliminates the need to remove worn and dated bathtubs, tile and kitchen countertops. “Refinishing is the smart money alternative to expensive and messy demolition and replacement,” says Dan Ness, owner.
D espite it being 2013, Portland has its share of gold, green and pink bathtubs. For over
32 years, Miracle Method has been changing colors, repairing chips and making worn, old tubs look like new again. “Our customers are amazed at the transformation, and it just takes a day or two,” states Ness.
B ut today, it’s more about countertops. “Kitchen countertops are the new WOW factor for
homeowners,” adds Dan. “People want the natural, multicolor, dimensional look of stone. We can provide both at a tremendous cost savings with our exclusive Natural Accents stone-look finishes.”
A vailable in a vast selection of colors and textures, Miracle Method’s Natural Accents stone-look BEFORE
finishes work equally well on laminate, tile, Corian and cultured marble surfaces. “For a custom look, we can add a rounded bull-nose edge. Our customers are impressed with the dramatic effect of the bull-nose option,” Dan says.
R efinishing is the affordable way to add style to your kitchen and bathrooms.
In just two to three days, worn and outdated tubs, countertops, vanities and tile walls will have a durable, like-new look and feel, and you’ll save up to 75 percent over the cost of replacement.
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Love, itaLian styLe 5 chefs, 5 dishes to feed your soul
By kerry newBerry Photography by DInA Ă VILA MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
ibbons of fresh pasta tossed with an earthy mushroom soffritto, plump potato gnocchi cloaked in gorgonzola cream, meatballs swimming in a bright tomato sauce. What is it about rustic italian fare that stirs the heart and soul? “Good italian food tastes like the food that your mother would make if she was a really great cook,” says Cathy Whims, chef-owner of nostrana and oven & shaker. in other words, it’s more than just nourishing and familiar — it’s crave-worthy. so for our annual comfort food issue, we asked five Portland chefs who have italian souls to share some of their favorite recipes. as the force behind two of Portland’s best-known and most-beloved italian restaurants, Whims offered her deceptively simple meatballs and tomato sauce, a deeply satisfying dish that requires surprisingly little effort. From artigiano, a food cart specializing in exquisite handmade pasta dishes, come rich potato dumplings bathed in a silky cream sauce. “there’s nothing more comforting than the melt-in-your-mouth texture of perfectly made potato gnocchi,” says proprietor Rachael Grossman. similar to gnocchi, but even lighter (and easier to make) are Rick Gencarelli’s ricotta gnudi. as the chef-owner of Lardo, Gencarelli may be better known around town for his ridiculously good sandwiches. But the man also has serious pasta-making chops, having spent years at the helm of some of country’s best Mediterranean restaurants, including todd english’s olives in new york City. “i think what makes these little dumplings so satisfying is the texture,” says Gencarelli. “When they are made properly they are an impossible mix of rich and ethereal.” Rounding out the list is a gorgeous, elemental bowl of fresh pasta tossed with sautéed wild mushrooms, fresh herbs and crispy breadcrumbs from Jake Martin of Genoa and accanto. and from taste Unique, our favorite italian take-out place, come plump, handmade cappelletti swimming in golden chicken broth from Perugia-born stefania toscano. “it’s my mother’s recipe,” she says. “Making cappelletti — literally ‘little hats’ — is traditionally a social cooking event, as there are always two or more people making them together.” an excuse to make good food with friends? We can’t think of anything more comforting than that. 34
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
Bucatini With Meatballs and san Marzano tomato sauce From Cathy whims, nostrana and Oven & Shaker, Portland Makes 4 to 6 servings
nothing could be simpler than this bright, no-prep-required tomato sauce adapted from Marcella Hazan’s seminal cookbook “essentials of Classic italian Cooking.” the key is in using real san Marzano tomatoes imported from italy. Paired with savory meatballs and thick bucatini, it’s the very definition of comfort food. Meatballs: ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil (divided) ½ onion, minced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley Zest of one lemon 1 cup crustless bread torn into small pieces ½ cup milk 2 ⁄3 pound ground pork 1 ⁄3 pound lean ground beef ¼ cup grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese Salt and freshly ground black pepper Tomato sauce: 1 (28-ounce) can whole, peeled plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano) ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 1 medium onion, peeled and halved Salt Pinch of sugar 1 pound bucatini, spaghetti or egg fettucine Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
To make the meatballs: Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a medium sauté pan set over medium-high heat. add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute more. add the parsley and lemon zest,remove from heat and allow to cool. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs and milk. in a mixing bowl, combine ground pork and ground beef, onion mixture and grated Parmigiano-reggiano. squeeze the milk from the soaked bread and add to the bowl, along with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Mix with your hands until thoroughly combined. Form meat into 1-inch to 1½-inch balls. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat. Brown the meatballs on all sides (they won’t be completely cooked through; they will finish cooking in the sauce). To make the sauce: Crush tomatoes with your hands as you add them to a medium saucepan. Pour in the juice as well. add butter, onion, salt and sugar. set over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, at a slow but steady simmer for about 45 minutes, adding meatballs halfway through. Discard onion and add salt to taste. Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water. Drain and toss with the sauce and meatballs. Divide among plates and serve with a generous shower of grated cheese.
MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
Cappelletti in Brodo From Stefania Toscano, Taste Unique, Portland Makes 8 servings
Made with rich egg pasta and a filling that combines four kinds of meat with a wallop of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, these cappelletti (essentially tortellini) are deliciously complex. a simple chicken broth is the perfect foil. We used swanson’s natural goodness low-sodium broth, simmered with a bit of onion, carrot, fennel and celery for extra flavor. this recipe makes a ton of cappelletti — a great excuse to invite friends over to help you shape them. Dough: 4 cups all-purpose flour (17.6 ounces) 6 eggs, beaten Filling: 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ onion, diced 1 carrot, peeled and diced 1 stalk celery, diced ¼ pound ground pork ¼ pound ground chicken ¼ pound ground veal ¼ pound ground turkey Salt and freshly ground black pepper 5 ounces freshly grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1 egg, beaten 8 to 10 cups chicken stock or good quality broth
MIXpdX.coM AugusT 2012
To make the dough: Mound the flour on a work surface. Make a well in the center and add the beaten eggs. stir the flour into the eggs, a little at a time, until a dough forms. knead the dough for a few minutes until all the flour is incorporated and it’s smooth, not shaggy. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour. To make the filling: Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. add the onion, carrot and celery. sauté until onion is translucent and vegetables are tender. add the meats, a generous sprinkle of salt and pepper, and sauté until meat is cooked through. allow filling to cool for a few minutes, then pulse in a food processor until finely minced (alternatively you can do this by hand with a knife). When meat is fully cooled, mix in the cheese, nutmeg and egg. refrigerate until cold. To form the cappelletti: Cut off a palmsized piece of dough (keep the rest wrapped in plastic) and run it through the thickest setting on a pasta machine. Fold the sides in so they meet in the middle and run through the machine again. repeat. now change to the next (thinner) setting and run dough through without folding. repeat on the next setting and so on until you get to the thinnest setting (or second thinnest if you prefer). if the pasta ever starts to tear or stick, dust it with semolina flour or more all-purpose
flour. if you don’t have a pasta machine, roll out the pasta as thin as possible using a rolling pin. repeat with the remaining dough, dusting each finished sheet with flour and placing under a sheet of plastic wrap as you go. Lay a pasta sheet on a lightly floured surface. Use a 3-inch circle cutter to cut out circles from the dough. (You can reroll the scraps and cut out more circles or use the dough to make noodles for another dish.) generously flour the circles, stack on a plate, and cover with plastic wrap to keep from drying out. Place a small pinch (about ¼ teaspoon) of filling in the center of a pasta circle. Fold the dough over the filling to make a semi-circle shape and press the edges together to seal them (if the dough is too dry to seal, moisten the edge with a little water). Bring the two ends together and pinch them to seal, then flip down the top edge of the pasta. arrange the cappelletti on a lightly floured baking sheet making sure they don’t touch. if not using right away, freeze until firm, then pack into airtight bags or containers. To serve: in a large saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer. add the cappelletti and simmer for about 5 minutes (test one to make sure the filling is hot). Divide broth and cappelletti among bowls and serve with a generous sprinkle of grated Parmigiano-reggiano cheese.
AugusT 2012 MIXpdX.coM
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
Gnocchi With Gorgonzola Cream sauce, Bacon and arugula salad Adapted from rachael Grossman, Artigiano, Portland Makes 6 servings
Bacon and piquant arugula add salty brightness to this supremely decadent cream sauce. once you make the gnocchi dough, shape it into dumplings right away. the dough gets moister as it sits, and will require more flour to roll out, which can make the gnocchi heavy. Gnocchi: Salt 1½ pounds russet potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 tablespoons melted butter 3 large egg yolks 1½ to 3 cups all-purpose flour, divided Arugula salad: 1 bunch arugula, stems trimmed, leaves washed and dried 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons roasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons shaved or grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese Gorgonzola cream sauce: 4 strips bacon 1½ cups heavy cream 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons gorgonzola cheese Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To make the gnocchi: Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold salted water by 1 inch. Bring to a simmer (do not boil). Cook until fork-tender. Drain. return drained potatoes to the pot and set over low heat for a few minutes to dry them out. Pass the hot potatoes through a ricer or food mill onto a rimmed baking sheet. spread out and allow to cool. turn potatoes out into a mound on a floured work surface. Make a well in the center and add the butter and egg yolks. sprinkle with 1 cup of the flour. Working gently but quickly, fold the egg and flour into the potatoes, adding more flour, a little at a time, until a dough forms that’s soft but no longer too sticky to roll into a rope. try not to knead too much. Pinch off a handful of dough and roll into a rope about ½ inch thick. Cut into ½-inch lengths with a bench scraper or knife. if you want to make grooves, hold a fork in one hand, then press one of the gnocchi against it and drag your finger along the gnocchi so it curls back against itself. set the gnocchi on a lightly floured baking sheet so they do not touch. if not cooking right away, freeze until firm, then pack into airtight bags or containers. To make the salad: in a large bowl, toss the arugula with olive oil, a generous pinch of salt and pepper, hazelnuts and cheese. To make the sauce and serve: Cut the bacon crosswise into ¼-inch-wide strips. set a sauté pan over medium-high heat, add the bacon, and cook until crisp. remove from heat and drain on a paper-towel-lined plate. in a medium saucepan set over medium heat, bring cream to a gentle simmer and cook until reduced to 1¼ cups. Whisk in the garlic, cheese, and salt and pepper to taste. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. add the gnocchi and cook until they float to the surface, plus another minute more (about 3 minutes total). remove with a slotted spoon and toss gnocchi in the cream sauce. if the sauce seems too thick, add a tablespoon or two of pasta water. Divide among serving plates, garnish with bacon and place a handful of salad alongside. MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
Fresh Pasta With Mushroom soffritto
From Jake Martin, Accanto and Genoa restaurants, Portland Makes 6 to 8 servings
Fresh pasta dough is very forgiving. there are just a few tricks: Let the dough rest about 1 hour to allow it to become evenly hydrated before rolling it out, but use it the same day before it turns an unappealing gray color (if it does darken, you can still use it. the color will blend away during rolling). also, keep some semolina flour on hand, which works better than allpurpose to keep the dough from sticking and tearing as you roll. if you don’t have a pasta rolling machine, you can use a rolling pin. it’ll just be a bit harder to get it very thin, but still worth the effort. Pasta: ½ pound (2 cups) all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt 1 whole egg 6 egg yolks 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon milk Semolina flour, for dusting Soffritto: 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup breadcrumbs Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 3 pounds mixed mushrooms (such as crimini, chanterelle, hedgehog), cleaned and chopped 3 large shallots, minced 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons chopped fresh marjoram Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
To make the pasta: in a large mixing bowl, combine the flour and salt. Create a well in the middle and pour in the egg, egg yolks, oil and milk. Mix the liquid ingredients with a fork until combined, then begin incorporating small amounts of the flour until a dough begins to form. When it’s too thick to mix with a fork, overturn bowl onto a work surface and knead the dough by hand for a few minutes until it’s smooth and no longer shaggy. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. Cut off a palm-sized piece of dough (keep the rest wrapped in plastic) and run through the thickest setting on a pasta machine. Fold the sides in so they meet in the middle and run through the machine again. repeat. now change to the next (thinner) setting and run dough through without folding. repeat on the next setting and so on until you get to the thinnest setting (or second thinnest if you prefer). if the pasta ever starts to tear or stick, dust it with semolina flour or more all-purpose flour. if you don’t have a pasta machine, roll out the pasta as thin as possible using a rolling pin. Dust the pasta sheet with flour. Fold in half, then in half again. slice into strands. For tagliatelle, slice ¼ inch wide. For pappardelle, slice ¾ inch wide. Unroll and place on a floured surface until ready to cook. repeat with the remaining dough. To make the soffritto and serve: Bring a large pot
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
of water to boil and salt generously. Just before serving, add noodles to the boiling water and cook for 2 minutes and drain, reserving some of the pasta water. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. add the breadcrumbs, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until golden. transfer to a small bowl. Wipe the pan clean and return to medium-high heat. Melt half the butter until foamy, then add half the mushrooms and season with salt. (the pan should be big enough to hold half the mushrooms in a single layer. if not, you will have to cook them in more than two batches so they’ll sear instead of steam.) sauté mushrooms until moisture is almost evaporated. add half the shallots and garlic; sauté until translucent. transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining butter, mushrooms, shallots and garlic. return the first batch of mushrooms to the pan and heat through. add the cooked pasta and about 2 tablespoons of pasta water. toss to coat noodles. season to taste with salt and pepper, then stir in marjoram. twist pasta into individual serving bowls and spoon extra mushroom soffritto on top. top with the toasted breadcrumbs and grated Parmigianoreggiano cheese.
MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
Ricotta Gnudi with Lamb Bolognese From rick Gencarelli, Lardo, Portland
Makes 8 servings
gnudi are essentially cheese ravioli filling, with just enough flour added to hold the mixture together and allow it to be boiled. they’re easier to make than gnocchi, freeze just as beautifully and manage to be both rich and cloud-like at the same time. Be sure to use high-quality whole-milk ricotta, and don’t skimp on the freshly ground pepper, which adds complexity. Ricotta gnudi: 2 large eggs 2 pounds (32 ounces) fresh whole-milk ricotta ½ cup grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more as needed Semolina flour, for dusting Lamb bolognese: 2 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil ½ cup onion, chopped ¼ cup fennel, chopped ¼ cup carrot, chopped 5 cloves garlic, sliced Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 pound ground lamb ½ pound ground pork ½ pound pancetta, minced 1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano) 1 cup dry white wine ½ cup whole milk ½ bunch fresh mint, chopped Grated ParmigianoReggiano, for serving
HAND TO YOURS
To make the gnudi: in a medium bowl, beat the eggs. add the ricotta, Parmigiano-reggiano, salt and pepper. Mix until the ingredients are mostly combined. add the all-purpose flour gradually, while folding the mixture, until a soft dough forms. add more flour as needed if it feels too sticky to roll into a rope. Dust a rimmed baking sheet with semolina flour. Portion the dough into four separate pieces. on a lightly floured work surface, gently roll one of the pieces into a rope ½-inch thick. With a bench scraper or knife, cut the rope into 1-inch pieces.
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Place the gnudi on the prepared baking sheet so that they are not touching. if not serving right away, freeze the gnudi until firm, then pack into airtight bags or containers. To make the lamb bolognese: Heat olive oil in a 6- to 8-quart saucepan set over medium-high heat. add the onions, fennel and carrot and sauté until the vegetables are translucent. add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute more. season with salt and pepper to taste. add the lamb, pork and pancetta and increase heat to high. Brown the meat, breaking it up with a spoon. add the tomatoes, white wine and milk. reduce heat and simmer uncovered for about 1 hour.
T H E R E A L M OT H E R G O O S E . C O M
taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. remove from heat and add chopped mint. To serve: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. add gnudi and cook until they float to the surface, plus 1 to 2 minutes more (taste one; it should be cooked through, not gummy). remove with a slotted spoon and add to the bolognese sauce. serve garnished with a generous shower of grated cheese.
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1325 E. Historic Columbia River Hwy Troutdale MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
The healing power of food Reeling from loss, writer Taylor Smith finds comfort in weekly dinners with friends By Taylor SmiTh Party photography by roSS William hamilTon Food photography by moToya nakamura
LAST fALL, AT Age 23,
I moved back to the Northwest after graduating from Indiana University, untangling roots that have grounded me in the damp Portland soil since I was born here in 1989. While I’ve been away at college, the city has changed a lot. And so have I. Portland pre-2008 was my father and I, sitting on our overstuffed couch, sipping tea late at night. It was tossing around jars of fish sauce and chilies as we tried our hand at a new shrimp curry recipe. It was sharing comforting bowls of savory beef stew as I worried about my future — which college would I go to? When would I come back home? But everything changed on May 13, 2008, when my dad’s 6-foot-6 frame left an empty chair at the head of my family table, joining the absence of my mom’s radiant smile, which cancer stole away in the fall of 2003. After the deaths of both my parents, memories of our meals together became sacred treasures. Sliding my finger over the edge of a thick-rimmed cast-iron frying pan, I’m reminded of my dad’s ignite-your-tongue-on-fire jambalaya – so hot he would fling towels to our guests so they could blot the sweat off their foreheads. I remember monthly dinner parties that always commenced with a block of cream cheese slathered in Pickapeppa Sauce. I can almost taste the powdered sugar clouds that dusted my sleepy eyes as I sat down to a plate of Saturday-morning french toast. MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
My parents valued eating together every single night, no matter what time soccer practice was over or how many tests I had to study for. In losing them, I also lost my family table. So I arrived at college hungry, thinking that dinners would regain some of their magic. But I quickly realized that most college students rarely take the time to cook, much less invite others over during mealtime. Those were the days when I was most starved for togetherness around the table. One snowy Indiana evening in 2010, my stomach growling and my mind haunted by the image of my table set for one, friday Night Dinners were born. for the last three years, from Bloomington, Ind. to Portland, Ore., my friends and I have gathered around the table, picnic blanket or couch to share a meal made by our efforts. We choose a theme, cook the dishes together
Wine With appetizers: Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand With dinner: Capestrano Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy
and relish the time to reconnect after a busy week. for a recent party, we were all craving the comforts of home – dishes we grew up with and miss now that we’re on our own. for my friend Hope, it’s the juicy, cheese-filled slices of her family’s meatloaf, made from a recipe that dates to the 1960s. for Bryony, it’s the moist cake her grandma would make for every special occasion, be it Christmas or a birthday party. for me, it’s my dad’s Brussels sprouts – a dish he only made once, but a recipe I’ve taken a vow to replicate because I fell in love with that first gooey bite. By friday evening, the usual group of suspects, my closest friends from high school at St. Mary’s, were gathered in my kitchen. Laughter reverberated off the walls, onions sputtered on the stove, and Brussels sprouts steamed in my makeshift steamer – a colander balanced atop a pot of boiling water. As we sat down to eat, our knees bumping against each other on my couch (because who has a table that seats eight at my age?), memories of high school flooded back, of all the nights we spent around each friend’s family table. eight years later, here we are on our own, honoring the traditions and lessons of parents who taught us that eating together is a treasured form of communion. We might not have the comforts of extra cash, proper equipment or a table big enough to accommodate us all, but that doesn’t bother us. We find comfort because we find home in each meal we make. We find comfort because we know that every friday we will come together to eat, talk, laugh and listen — because this is where our relationships live, around our new family table. Taylor Smith and her friends record their Friday Night Dinner themes and recipes on their blog pdxfnd.wordpress.com
Swedish Roasted Potatoes
Arkansas Artichoke Dip
MAKeS 6 ServINgS
MAKeS 10 To 12 ServINgS
This pretty side dish offers an easy twist on traditional roasted potatoes. “I have wonderful memories of visiting my mom’s cousin, Jan, when I was younger,” says Annie Pettycrew. “I loved the smell of freshly baked goodies when we walked through the door. This dish is special because Jan and her husband, greg, are special to us.”
Creamy and cheesy, with the piquant bite of artichoke hearts and green chiles, no one can stop eating this super-fast dip. “My nana was a tried-and-true Southern belle,” says Taylor Smith. “She was always entertaining, making sure her table was filled with snacks for guests, and at nearly every function she would make this simple, savory dip.”
6 medium potatoes (any variety) 2 to 3 sprigs fresh rosemary or thyme ¼ cup butter, melted 1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper Paprika
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Peel potatoes. Thinly slice crosswise about ¾ of the way through. (The easiest way to do this is to not slice all the way across. In other words, slice as if you’re creating fringe, leaving the side farthest from you intact. When done, turn the potato and make the intact side the bottom.)
1 (13.75 ounce/8.1 ounces drained) can waterpacked artichoke hearts 1 (7-ounce) can chopped green Set the potatoes in a 2-quart or 8-inch baking chiles dish. Strip the leaves from the herb sprigs. 1 cup mayonnaise Tuck a few leaves in between the slices (you 1 cup freshly don’t have to be precise). Pour melted butter grated Parmesan over the potatoes, turn to coat, then sprinkle cheese, plus with salt, as well as pepper and paprika to more for the top taste. For serving: Pita or bagel chips, corn Bake until tender, about 1 hour, turning the chips or French potatoes to coat in butter every 15 minutes. bread When tender, increase heat to 450 degrees or turn on broiler. Bake until tops of potatoes are browned and crisp, about 5 minutes.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Drain artichoke hearts in a colander, gently squeezing to remove excess moisture. roughly chop. Add to a medium bowl and mix in remaining ingredients. Transfer mixture to a baking dish. Sprinkle more freshly grated Parmesan on top. Bake for 15 minutes, or until heated through. — From Catherine Hoge Smith, Fort Smith, Ark.
— Adapted from Jan McElroy, Vashon Island, Wash. MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
Dad’s Brussels Sprouts Gratin MAKeS 6 To 8 ServINgS
While Brussels sprouts lovers will devour this deliciously creamy dish, even those who swear they despise them will be won over. “even though my dad only made this dish once before he passed away, I feel a true connection to it,” says Taylor Smith. “every year I attempt to re-create it and the recipe has evolved over time. In a way, parts of my healing journey through these past four years can be told through the variations of my dad’s gratin.” 1½ pounds Brussels sprouts 4 strips bacon, sliced crosswise into ¼-inch strips 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup heavy cream 1 cup grated cheddar cheese (Dubliner preferred) 1 cup breadcrumbs 3 tablespoons butter Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Trim the root ends of the Brussels sprouts, remove the outer leaves, and slice in half lengthwise. Insert a vegetable steamer into a saucepan and add water. Bring to a boil, add the Brussels sprouts, cover and steam for about 5 minutes, until just tender. run under cold water to stop the cooking. Set a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until crisp. With a slotted spoon, transfer to a 3-quart or 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Add the olive oil and onions to the pan with the bacon grease. Sauté until onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute more. Transfer mixture to the baking dish. Place the steamed Brussels sprouts, cut side down, to the sauté pan (add more oil if necessary) and cook until beginning to brown, about 6 minutes. Add to the baking dish and stir to combine with the bacon and onions. Pour cream over the Brussels sprouts. Top with cheese and breadcrumbs. Dot the top evenly with the butter. Bake for 15 minutes, until cream is bubbling and topping is browned. — Adapted from Arthur Smith, Portland
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
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Meat and Cheese Loaf
Choose from our most popular pieces or customize your own.
(Photograph page 44)
MAKeS 6 To 8 ServINgS
This cheesy meatloaf is serious comfort food. “In 1967, my grandma’s neighbor made this meatloaf for her. My family has used the same recipe ever since,” says Hope Fredregill. We’ve updated the recipe to use a combination of ground beef and pork for more complexity, and sautéed vegetables for depth of flavor. We also prefer it with the brighter flavor of cheddar cheese rather than creamier American, but the choice is yours. Baking it on a baking sheet, rather than a loaf pan, allows the meatloaf to cook faster, brown on all sides, and lets excess grease drip off. 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups) 1 red pepper, finely chopped (about 1 cup) 2 small stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup) 2 eggs ½ cup milk 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs 4 ounces (about 1 cup) diced sharp cheddar cheese or American cheese 1 pound lean ground beef 1 pound ground pork Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over mediumhigh heat. Add the onion, red pepper and celery. Sauté until softened and beginning to brown, about 7 minutes. remove from heat and allow to cool. In a large mixing bowl, beat the eggs. Whisk in the milk, salt, pepper, breadcrumbs, cheese and cooled vegetables. Add the ground beef and pork, breaking it into chunks as you add it to the bowl, then mix everything together with your hands until combined. Press mixture into a loaf shape on a rimmed baking sheet or roasting pan. Bake for 1 to 11⁄2 hours, or until a thermometer inserted into center registers 155 degrees. — Adapted from Virgene Mosier, Fullerton Calif.
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MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
Garney’s “Coffee” Cake MAKeS 8 ServINgS
Don’t say we didn’t warn you. This moist cake is seriously addictive. The golden syrup and coffee combine to make a toffee-like flavor that is very hard to resist. It’s also even better the next day. In our view, it needs no adornment save for a sprinkle of powdered sugar and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. But if you want to go all-out, frost it with mocha buttercream and chocolate shavings (even more impressive, double the recipe to make a layer cake). “My grandma (affectionately known as garney because I had trouble saying granny when I was little) used to make this cake for every family gathering,” says Bryony owen. Whether it was a birthday, anniversary or just a Sunday dinner, this cake would be there without fail.” Cake: ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup unsalted butter 1 cup Lyle’s Golden Syrup (see note) ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons instant espresso powder ¾ teaspoon baking powder 2 eggs 1½ tablespoons milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Mocha buttercream (optional): 1½ sticks butter (at room temperature) 2 cups powdered sugar, sifted 2 to 3 tablespoons Dutch-process cocoa powder 3 teaspoons instant espresso powder dissolved in 3 teaspoons hot water 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract Grated chocolate, for garnish
To make the cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. grease and flour an 8-inch round cake pan. Line the bottom with a round of parchment paper. In a saucepan set over medium-low heat, combine sugar, butter, syrup and salt. Heat, stirring, until butter melts (do not boil). remove from heat and cool. Into a medium mixing bowl, sift together the flour, espresso powder and baking powder. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk and vanilla. Whisk the cooled syrup mixture. gently stir this mixture into the flour until combined. Pour into the prepared cake pan and bake for 30-40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow to cool for 10 minutes in the pan before turning out onto a rack to finish cooling. Serve, dusted with powdered sugar, or frosted with mocha buttercream. To make the mocha buttercream: In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the butter until soft and fluffy. gradually beat in the sugar and cocoa powder until combined. Beat in the espresso and vanilla, and continue beating 1 more minute until fluffy. Frost the top and sides of the cooled cake with buttercream and top with a generous pile of chocolate shavings. — Adapted from Olive Newton, Caterham, Surrey, England Note: Lyle’s golden Syrup is a cane sugar syrup that can be found at New Seasons, Whole Foods, World Market and other stores with a wide selection of international foods.
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
calendar Our picks for what to do when COMPILED BY GRANT BUTLER
YOUR MOUTH, YOUR MOUTH, YOUR MOUTH IS ON FIRE
MARCH 2: Salvador Molly’s wraps up its 17th annual Great Balls of Fire fundraiser for Oregon Heat with the King of Heat Final Challenge. The event features winners from previous habanero-fritter-eating contests to see who can handle the most heat. Pour on the palate-cooling drinks (and the Tums). salvadormollys.com
TAKING IT TO THE STREETS! MARCH 3-4: On a cold March day
in 2003, a group of street musicians got together for an impromptu performance, giving birth to the MarchFourth Marching Band, a mix of New Orleans brass ensemble and rock group. For their 10th anniversary, they have a series of concerts at McMenamins Crystal Ballroom.
MARCH 16: Wintertime is about small farmers markets, featuring limited vendors and mostly cold-weather crops. But spring is on the horizon with the return of the Saturday edition of the Portland Farmers Market at Portland State University. Early in the season, expect hearty greens, cauliflower and mushrooms, along with food vendors, artisan cheese, baked goodies and live music. As we move into late spring, look for the first berries of the season. portlandfarmersmarket.org
AN UNEXPECTED JOURNEY MARCH 21-23: French-Algerian
choreographer Abou Lagraa gathered together 400 people from all over Algeria with little or no dance experience in hopes of creating a new work. Nine young men were selected for 18 months of intense hip-hop training and choreographic creation, and the result is Contemporary Ballet of Algiers. The two-part program, set to Ravel’s “Bolero” and Arab composers, showcases the men’s phenomenal, newly acquired dance talent.
CHEESE, CHOCOLATE AND CHARDONNAY
MARCH 29-30: The change of seasons brings another gathering of Oregon and Washington brewers and vintners for the 19th Annual Spring Beer & Wine Fest. In addition to sips of beer and wine, there will be samplings of cheese and chocolate, along with chef demonstrations and seminars to expand your palate.
PHOTOGRAPH BY MELISSA’S PRODUCE
PHOTOGRAPH BY RICK SADLE
A SURE SIGN OF SPRING
TIPTOE THROUGH THE TULIPS
MARCH 29-MAY 5: Talk about a perfect day trip! Just 45 minutes south of Portland 40 acres of tulips and daffodils come alive with color at Woodburn’s Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm. At the 2013 Annual Tulip Fest, purchase cut flowers and pre-order bulbs for next season, while enjoying food from various vendors.
YOU FEELING LUCKY?
LEARNING TO LIVE WELL
MARCH 22-24: Trying to live a greener
PHOTOGRAPH BY LEONORA CILLAY
MARCH 17: It’s St. Patrick’s Day proper, which means that the Shamrock Run this year actually happens on the big day. But because it’s a Sunday, expect the real revelry at Kells Irish Restaurant & Pub and other Irishcentric spots to happen on Friday and Saturday. Expect Celtic dancing, live music and plenty of corned beef.
lifestyle can present many challenges, but the annual Better Living Show offers plenty of advice for reducing the carbon footprint of your home and garden. The free event also features demonstrations on everything from organic cooking and green remodeling, to an eco-friendly fashion show.
betterlivingshow.org MARCH 2013 MIXpdX.coM
Ken Forkish, the man behind the bread by Jen stevenson
He runs two of Portland’s most acclaimed eateries (Ken’s Artisan Bakery, and Ken’s Artisan Pizza — where lines out the door are still routine nearly seven years in). His goldstandard breads grace the tables of many of the city’s best restaurants. His celebrated cookbook, “Flour Water Salt Yeast,” published last fall is currently in its fourth printing. With all that, you’d think Ken Forkish would be planning his retirement in the Côte d’Azur right about now. Instead, this Silicon-Valley-software-engineer-turned-Portland-bread-baron is embarking on his third, most ambitious and most personal project this summer — a baking atelier and “elevated tavern” dubbed Trifecta. We sat down with Forkish and talked about his plans for Trifecta, the simple luxury of an exceptional cheese toast, and why his very best pastry is the one right out of the oven. What did you grow up eating? What’s your most vivid childhood comfort food memory? My mom’s chocolate cake. She’d make it for a birthday or special occasion. It would sit on the cake stand, and you couldn’t walk by without evening up the last cut. Before long there wasn’t anything to even up. What is your quintessential comfort food? A cheese toast made with our Country Brown bread and a farmstead cheddar from Steve Jones’ Cheese Bar. When the bread is good and the cheese is good, it’s absolutely my go-to comfort food. I like simple foods. As life milestones go, people get nostalgic about their first kiss or car. Do you remember your first loaf of really great bread? Same euphoric feeling or better?
I’d rather not talk about my first kiss, because I remember dribbling down my chin. Ok, how about the bread then? I grew up in suburban Maryland in the ’60s and ’70s, and we didn’t know good bread. During a trip to France, in the mid-’90s, was the first time I ever ate Pain Poilâne. I had already read about him (boulanger Lionel Poilâne), and that there was a winelike complexity to his bread. I thought, “I can’t wait to experience this.” It was my light bulb moment. So the first really memorable bread I had was his, in Paris. He was my muse. Of all your creations, what do you find the most comforting? What are you pulling from the case on the coldest, dreariest Portland morning? Well, it’s not even making it to the case, actually. It’ll be something that’s still hot from the oven. We stagger our bake in the
mornings, so that there’s always something warm at least up until 11 a.m. It might be a ham and cheese croissant. Or it might be a chocolate croissant. You’re a trim guy, do you have a selfimposed pastries per diem limit? I eat when I’m here and taste when I’m here. And I do eat our bread every day, but I generally don’t take pastry home. Sometimes I’ll bring a bag of our chocolate hazelnut cookies home and have one or two. This summer, you’re embarking on a big new venture. Has Trifecta always been part of the plan? No, I’m just figuring this out as I go. It’s like, what else would I do? I’ve got the bakery running super well. I could play a lot of golf, I could travel more, I could do the things we all wish we could. But I’m not done yet as a creative professional. So Trifecta is going to be my atelier, which is French for workshop. It’s a place to further my craft as a baker, where I won’t be pinned down. It will be the same with the restaurant menu. I don’t want it to be defined. If you were to mishmash the DNA of Chez Panisse Cafe, Animal and Joe Beef, that’s kind of what you’d have. A lot of people want to build the place they want to hang out in, and that is definitely true in this case. £ photograph by randy rasmussen
ONLiNE EXTRA: Get the full interview at miXpdX.cOm 52
MIXpdX.coM MARCH 2013
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