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Missoula Independent

Summer 2008

Seven easy summits, plus a trio of vigorous scrambles Paying homage to Pattee Canyon’s accessible bike trails Where a river runs through it, fly-fishing rules


Perched on a hillside overlooking Stevensville, Homeacres supplies the Good Food Store with a variety of apples, pears and Asian pears.


It’s often Fialky cut flowers that catch your eye as you enter the store. We carry their garlilc and shallots too.


Longtime advocates for “eating local,” Steve and Luci bring us carrots, potatoes, herbs, greens, bedding plants and cut flowers.

Leaders in their fields. Here are just a few of the local farmers the Good Food Store is lucky enough to represent.


Depending on the season, you’ll find this Bitterroot Valley farm’s parsley, fennel, beets and more at the Good Food Store.

For more than 20 years our customers have enjoyed tomatoes, garlic, winter squash and sweet corn raised on this farm near Dixon.


Supplying the Good Food Store with salad mix, onions, kale, squash, and flowers since 1992.

Fresh from Bluebird Road in Paradise, melons, tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, eggplant, corn and more. | 1600 S. 3rd St. West | 7am to 10pm Every Day | 541.FOOD

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008



Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

explorer 2008

Photo by Chad Harder

The first thing I thought when I landed in Montana years ago was that some rugged dude in a cowboy hat and cowboy boots, spittin’ tobacco, would immediately single me out with some form of the line: “So, you ain’t from around here, is you?” Never happened. That’s because with a good pair of hiking shoes, a reliable mountain bike, a decent fly-fishing rod, and a disposition that’s equally adventurous and conscientious, I ended up fitting right in.

You will too. And, at least when it comes to exploring western Montana’s great outdoors, we’re here to steer you in the right direction. In this travel-ready guide, we’ll cover some of our favorite spots for hiking, biking, climbing, fishing and more. We’ll also cover a good swath of western Montana, from Glacier to the Bitterroot and spots in between, and offer activities for all skill levels, from easy summits to rigorous climbs. By the end, you may even feel like a local. —Skylar Browning

Table of Contents A few bird’s-eye views for those who like an easy way to the top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Missoula’s inextricable connection to the quiet sport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Paying homage to Pattee Canyon’s accessible bike trails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 A trio of vigorous one-day summits for the truly adventurous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Staff suggestions on required reading, from paddling to peddling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Scary turns simple when climbing Room with a View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Summer sledding at the Crown of the Continent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 The Indy’s summer calendar of events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Spotlights on: Missoula Osprey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Missoula Marathon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 River City Roots Festival . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Cover photo by Chad Harder

Advertising Focus Pages Advertiser Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Antiques, Art & Collectibles . . . . . . . . . 53 - 55 Bitterroot Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 - 23 Dish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 - 63 Downtown Missoula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 - 20

Explore Montana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Flathead Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Glacier Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42, 43 Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 - 66 Mission Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57, 58

Pamper Yourself . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Real Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34, 35 Seeley Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Sportin’ Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 - 72 Whitefish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


North Fork Flathead River


Lake Sherburne




St. Mary

Going to the Sun

Lake Koocanusa nu usa usa

Lake McDonald

Libby i River


Glacier East Glacier National Park 2

Columbia Falls Kalispell 2 d

Hungry Horse Res.


Thompson Falls

Middle Fork Flathead River


Swan River



Wilderness Ronan

Clark Fork River

Plains St. Regis



Swan Lake


Big Arm Polson

Hot Springs

89 d


Flathead Lake



West Glacier



Flathead Riverr 200

St. Ignatius Ravalli

Superior 90 d

Seeley Lake

d 93




Ovando Blackfoot River

d 12



a Missoula


Potomac L Lolo Florence Stevensville 269


d Drummond Rock Creek

141 90 d

12 d

Deerlodge Philipsburg

Hamilton 38 Bitterroot River Lake Como


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Georgetown Georgetown 1 Lake Anaconda


Photo by Chad Harder

Mount Sentinel’s expansive trail system offers something for everyone, from flat fire-road trots to unrelenting singletrack trails—all of it right on Missoula’s doorstep.

Seven summits A few bird’s-eye views for those who like an easy way to the top by Chad Harder lot of national magazines over the years have shared the “Inside Scoop!” on what makes Missoula such a prime recreation mountain town–the type of place that keeps newcomers flocking to western Montana. We come for the pristine rivers, summertime snowfields and the towering peaks, all linked through thousands of miles of footpaths. We also come for the heights. While many hikers find great pleasure in exploring the gentle valley corridors, the joy and challenge of getting up on top of something big nearly always provides a more stimulating and memorable experience. If you’re willing to put in the work. Obviously, summit trips require more effort and awareness than, say, a stroll down the Kim Williams Trail, but few Missoulians can see their house from that riverside trail, either.


Scramble atop Mount Sentinel, Mount Jumbo, Lolo Peak, or even the Blue Mountain Saddle, and you’ll see how your humble abode fits into the many ranges, river valleys and roadways that create the topography of the greater Missoula neighborhood. So to assist in both this enlightenment and the physical well being of our readers, the Independent has put together a list of western Montana’s easier, but still splendid, summits. Some require only an hour to bag, others much of a day. All are guaranteed to stimulate lungs, heart and mind. Of course, summiteers should beware: The perspectives achieved by getting high around Missoula can prove endlessly rewarding—and addicting. Mount Sentinel So you’ve been to the “M.” Most Missoulians probably have. At 1.5 miles roundtrip, this short

but vigorous hike gets the blood pumping and provides a great view of the setting sun. But if you really want to stretch it out a bit, head up to the 5,158-foot summit. It’s a steep pitch, rising 2,000 feet from the valley floor, but the whole trip can be made in a couple hours. Arrive at the top, and you’ll realize that you could actually keep going to the summit of University Mountain, another few hundred feet up. But most folks are content to call Sentinel the destination and head back down one of three routes that lead to the valley floor. How to get there: Bike over to the base of the “M” trail and start huffin’ up the switchbacks. Above the “M,” things get a little less refined as the trail starts a more direct assault on the western flank of the mountain. Alternately, head down the Kim Williams Trail about a mile and head up the gentle ascent provided by the Hellgate Canyon Trail all the way to the top. Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


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Mount Jumbo Directly across the Clark Fork River from Mount Sentinel lies its twin, Mount Jumbo. Exquisite hiking trails lace through the native grasses (and invasive knapweed) on this broad peak, and they’re all the more enjoyable since the peak is off-limits during the snowy season to allow elk and deer a comfortable and grassy place to forage. If you know this mountain solely as “The one with the ‘L’ on it,” put down this paper, slip on your tennies and head under the Interstate to a less-crowded and slightly less-steep version of Mount Sentinel. How to get there: From Poplar Street in the Lower Rattlesnake, head up to the “L” Often referred to as the easiest summit in Glacier and keep on climbing until the introduction to off-trail summiteering in the park. trail rolls over onto the broad, rent title as “The best view of the Missoula high summit. Turn around, have a seat and Valley.” Its less-than-an-hour drive time pick your house out from the rows and rows draws numerous Missoulians for picnics, of homes leading off into the distance. campouts and keggers, and the panorama of our valley is truly unparalleled. The view Blue Mountain Saddle encompasses the Bitterroot Valley, downAlthough it’s not a summit per se, this town Missoula and the southern Mission nothing-to-it gem is included due to its curMountains. Wildflowers are ubiquitous throughout the summer, and early risers can comfortably enjoy an overnighter of looking at the stars on a school night and still be back in town for a 9 a.m. appointment. How to get there: Head toward Blue Mountain Recreation Area, and take the Blue Mountain Road up 11 miles to a sign reading “Blue Mountain Saddle.” Park here, and walk the nearly flat half-mile trail to the promontory, complete with fire pit and tent pad. The place is so accessible that it’s often trashed, so Photo by Chad Harder bring a garbage bag and Call it what you want–it’s formerly known as Squaw clean up after the fools Peak–but Missoula’s most prominent pyramidal peak who leave their plastic in provides a great perspective of our neighborhood, the woods. from the Missions to the Bitterroots and beyond.

Photo by Chad Harder

National Park, Oberlin provides a good

Blodgett Canyon Overlook Missoula’s working class can punch out at 5 p.m., hit this Bitterroot trailhead by 6 p.m. and still have plenty of time to catch the sunset. It’s a very easy one-mile stroll to a breathtaking overlook that stares straight down the jaws of the Bitterroot’s showcase canyon, Blodgett. (Look for climbers scaling the soaring spires directly across the canyon, or start picking out a route for yourself—there’s plenty to go around.) On the way, you’ll walk through towering old-growth ponderosas. How to get there: Turn off Highway 93 just north of Hamilton (the last turnoff before crossing the Bitterroot River) and follow the signs to Blodgett Canyon Overlook. (If you’re feeling spunky and have all day, consider following the trail junction that says “Canyon Creek” up, up, up, and up some more. This thigh-burner divvies up topnotch, high alpine meadows in the upper reaches of this remote canyon—for those willing to put in the work.) Mount Oberlin Glacier National Park’s one million acres contain more than 700 miles of hiking trails and hundreds of mostly rotten summits. The crumbly sedimentary rock is a far cry from the solid granite of the Bitterroots, but if explorers are willing to put up with the lessthan-durable conditions, the views from the top are unparalleled. Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Often referred to as “the easiest summit in the park,” Mt. Oberlin doesn’t look like much of a trip from the vantage of the Logan Pass Visitor Center. But if you commit a couple hours to scaling this peak you’ll find yourself high on a precipice, with mountain goats, wind and wildflowers your only comrades. Although it leaves from one of the most popular trailheads in the park, this route does not follow an official “trail.” This puts a great amount of responsibility on hikers picking their way through moist patches of moss and wildflowers, leaping from rock to rock to avoid long-lasting and unsightly boot prints in the fragile alpine environment. In an effort to help avoid leaving trace, park rangers at the Logan Pass Visitor Center can assist with lowimpact route-finding tips to keep this rewarding cake-walk on-limits to hikers. How to get there: Follow the RVs north out of Missoula on Highway 93, chase the signs to Glacier N.P. and park at the Logan Pass Visitor Center. The peak is the lil’ pup just to the right of the behind-the-center Mount Clements.

St. Mary’s Peak Another must-climb for everyone living in the Missoula region. With its mellow access road, historic fire lookout, splendid views in all directions and prominent profile from the valley, St. Mary’s Peak is appealing to hikers of all abilities, and it is quite likely the most-summitted peak in the Bitterroots. This is a big mountain that can be run, round-trip, in about three hours, although most hikers take five or six. Multiple exploring options exist for the gung-ho (get up there early and look west to the “Heavenly Twins” for inspiration). How to get there: Head south on Highway 93 past Stevensville to Indian Prairie Loop Road and follow the signs to the trailhead. Ch-paa-qn, formerly Squaw Peak Although it’s carried many monikers over the years, this pyramid-esque protrusion on Missoula’s western horizon has long been a prime destination for locals looking to get

up on the easiest/highest thing around. Trails from two trailheads pick their way to this summit, and both are worth exploring. The first hour-plus of the walk lacks drama due to its thickly treed route, but the last half-mile of the trail is a fun-but-tedious off-trail scree scramble. Keep in mind this mountain’s long and notable history of sucking unsuspecting hikers into the wrong drainage and depositing them many miles away from their cars. The 360-degree views from this lightning-rod summit include much of the Bitterroots and the Mission and Swan ranges, as well as Flathead Lake when the air is clear. How to get there: Head west out of Missoula on I-90 to the Ninemile exit and head north to the Historic Ninemile Remount Depot. From there, either check with a ranger or head up Sixmile Road and follow the signs to the trailhead, a bumpy and tedious 10-mile logging road.

Photo by Chad Harder

Mount Jumbo sports trail access from both the Jumbo Saddle and a trailhead at Poplar Street in the Lower Rattlesnake.


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Photo by Chad Harder

Hooked on fly-fishing Missoula’s inextricable connection to the quiet sport by Nick Davis t’s been called the “quiet sport,” and it’s often associated with genteel trappings such as tweed, wicker and fine pipe tobacco. Its roots reach back a couple thousand years (there’s no direct evidence that Jesus was a fly-fisherman, though it’s certainly easy to imagine—given his penchant for

I 12

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

contemplation—the fisher of men throwing some casts during his down time on the Sea of Galilee). And the modern version of the sport was refined in the fledgling United States after emerging as a favorite vocation of the wealthy on the chalk streams of 19th century Britain. The last 15 years or so have seen somewhat of a resurgence in the sport, fueled in

large part by the gentle aging of nature-seeking baby boomers, and by what those in the industry now simply call “The Movie.” This, of course, was Robert Redford’s 1992 adaptation of Norman Maclean’s classic story of fly-fishing, family and fisticuffs, whose titular line, “Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it,” is one of the greatest river references in all of literature, right along-

side Missoula poet Richard Hugo’s “I forget the names of towns without rivers/A town needs a river to forgive the town.” It wasn’t necessarily built on fly-fishing, but Missoula (pardoned, as it is, by the Clark Fork) is a town that, at the very least, is partly sustained by it. Not just in tourism dollars—though certainly a fair chunk of the local economy, in all but the winter months, is generated by those who covet our trout water from afar—but more crucially in spiritual foundation. Fly-fishing is, quite simply, one of the things that make this town tick. The fact that fly-fishing thrives among the dwellers of an income-challenged place like Missoula is proof enough that it’s no longer exclusively a sport of the well-to-do. In fact, it could be argued that the roles of fly-fishing and conventional fishing (bait-dunking and

lure-chucking, from which arose the mighty manner than bait or lures, fly-fishing is an bass-fishing tournament circuit) have been infinitely more organic—and consequently, reversed over the last few decades—the logo dynamic—method than conventional fishchaos on the fishing shirts and boats of TV ing, much like bow hunting is to high-powbass pros is an indication of how much it ered rifle hunting. costs to equip yourself in that sport. And that’s exactly why fly-fishing inspires Mechanically, the biggest difference a widespread and deep-seated passion in between the two disciplines rests in the these parts. The trappings are much more cast—in bait and spin casting, the weight of likely to run towards polypro, Gore-tex and the bait or lure is thrown by the rod; in fly- wacky tobacky these days, but the essence of fishing, since the fly often carries little mass, the sport remains the same. the line itself is thrown. As the method translates to pursuit, though, the separa- Getting started tion becomes even clearer. A quick guide to the guides and local shops that can get you Because fly casting is harder casting like a character in Norman Maclean’s classic tale. to do than conventional Fly Fishing Always Kesel’s Four Rivers Fly casting, and because flies 714 S. 4th St. Shop must almost always be pre1522 S. Reserve St. Hamilton sented in a more natural Missoula 406-363-0943 406-721-4796 Fishaus Fly Fishing Grizzly Hackle 702 N. 1st St. 215 W. Front St. Hamilton Missoula 406-363-6158 406-721-8996 Riverbend Flyfishing The Kingfisher 109 E. Main 926 E. Broadway Hamilton Missoula 406-363-4197 406-721-6141 Arends Fly Shop The Missoulian Angler 7343 U.S. Hwy. 2 East 401 S. Orange St. Columbia Falls Missoula 406-892-2033 406-728-7766 Glacier Fly Shop Fisherman’s Mercantile 111 Hungry Horse Blvd. 73 Rock Creek Road Hungry Horse Clinton 406-387-4079 406 825-6440 Glacier Wilderness John Perry’s Montana Guides Fly Fishing 11970 U.S. Highway 2 E. 68 Rock Creek Road West Glacier Clinton 800-521-7238 406-825-2997 Lakestream Flyshop River Otter Fly Shop 334 Central Ave. 5504 Old Hwy 93 Whitefish Florence 406-862-1298 406-273-4858

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Photo by Chad Harder

Carbon kosher Paying homage to Pattee Canyon’s accessible bike trails by Patrick M. Klemz he consciousness of the outdoor enthusiast is often encumbered with difficult-to-justify moral hang-ups. One may even call them beliefs. For myself, I’ve long felt it necessary to honor the mountain with calorie sacrifice before enjoying its gravitational endowments. And, though Blue Mountain is blessed with semi-technical descents, motorized access to its ridgeline introduces a pair of two-wheeled factions I strive to avoid:


drivers-and-divers (those who drive to their uphill destination, then mountain bike down), and, much worse, dirt bikers. By May—that accursed time of year when the Forest Service opens its gateway to Blue Mountain’s upper trailheads—I migrate east to Pattee Canyon, where motorized summit access is rightly prohibited year-round. Thanks in part to these restrictions and its own ecological history, Pattee Canyon offers a diversity of mountain biking experiences. Pedaling east and uphill along the lichen-lined canyon floor, trailheads begin

to sprout up on both flanks of the surrounding Rattlesnake Mountains. First-time riders will likely find themselves magnetized toward the south slopes of University Mountain and its familiar vistas over Hellgate Canyon. Those seeking this route will turn left. Heading north from the Crazy Canyon trailhead, virtually every pathway converges on a meadowed plateau, where the climbing options winnow down to a steep, winding singletrack or a more gradual fire road. Ranging from moderate to strenuous climbs, Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


all options eventually lead to University’s saddle. From here, precipitous tracks extend up to the mountain’s true summit and beyond. (Note: Bikes are verboten on the lesser Sentinel summit and adjoining faces). Descending the north side of Pattee Canyon demands caution, as the trails prove popular with hikers and cross country dog walkers. Still, experienced downhill runners will want to get enough speed to take advantage of the numerous runoff dips. A cascade down the serpentine Crooked Trail is the gnarliest

return route, but not one without hazard— the path is dark on overcast days, and, as the

Trail options on the southern half of Pattee Canyon are geologically gentler, prompting riders to slow their pace and enjoy its biological wealth. Even in spring, the floor of this old-growth ponderosa pine forest is laden with freshly blossomed glacier lily, pasqueflower and trillium. Calypso orchid and clarkia eventually join the spectrum, nourishing a vast diversity of native pollinators. Above, raptors occupy its canopies and, on occasion, even allusive accipiters like the Northern Goshawk can be seen in flight.

“The south side’s soft trailways, bedded with the shedding of

ancient pine, permit a quiet pass-

ing though the lower forest that even unapologetic knobheads will want to take advantage of.” name would indicate, fairly riddled with sharp turns.

continued on page 21

Getting started The following Western Montana businesses offer bikes for sale and/or rent: Big Sky Cyclery 1110 South Ave. W. Missoula 406-543-3331

The Bike Doctor 1101 Toole Ave. Missoula 406-721-5357

Missoula Bicycle Works 708 S. Higgins Missoula 406-721-6525

Wheaton’s 214 First Ave. W. Kalispell 406-257-5808

Open Road Bicycles and Nordic Equipment 517 S. Orange St. Missoula 406-549-2453

Bikology Cycling and Fitness 155 N. Main Kalispell 406-755-6748

Brady’s Sportsman Tremper’s Shopping Center Missoula 406-721-3992

Glacier Cyclery 326 Second St. E. Whitefish 406-862-6446

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The south side’s soft trailways, bedded with the shedding of ancient pine, permit a quiet passing though the lower forest that even unapologetic knobheads will want to take advantage of. As pitch of the landscape increases, various pathways diverge from the main south side conduit, known as the Sam Braxton National Recreation Trail. Several of these meander off toward the headwaters of Deer Creek, where neglected logging roads have left cliffside slides too fun to pass up. Direct summit climbs are steeper and often thickly lined with poison ivy. Approaching the ridgeline, avenues for exploratory riding open up where the snowpack has melted away. Altering routes on the return is a rewarding choice, but—be advised— some south side trails in Pattee Canyon lead to nowhere.

Photo by Chad Harder

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Photo by Chad Harder

Remote, beautiful and unrelenting, Holland Peak is the highest in the Swans with views across the Bob Marshall and Scapegoat Wildernesses.

Scrambled legs A trio of vigorous one-day summits for the truly adventurous by Chad Harder ast week my honey pulled out a map of Montana. Drawing a circle around Missoula with a radius of 100 miles, she declared that we should focus our summertime adventures inside this ring. This, she said, will reduce driving times and costs, but maximize our time in Montana’s high country. Fortunately, we won’t be giving much up. Inside this small area lies some of Montana’s most extraordinary and remote country, including parts of the Bitterroot, Swan and Mission Mountain ranges. Difficult and off-trail peaks are abundant here, and since part of adventure is finding your own way, this guide will act only as inspiration, and only for strong, smart parties. 24 Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


We’re highlighting three extraordinary and strenuous peaks, but remember that these are but a sampling of Montana high country worthy of your exploration. While none require gear more technical than durable shoes, weather protection and a backpack, you should expect challenges, like possible grizzlies, general remoteness, snowfields and exposure. These aren’t walks in the park, but if you’re into all-day grinds, via stimulating off-trail routes, you won’t need to look any further. As always, stay safe, stay hydrated and, by all means, have a good time. Holland Peak, 9,356 feet It’s not high by alpinist standards, but at 9,356 feet Holland Peak is the highest in the Swan Range. The vertical mile-plus hike trav-

els primarily via a rough climber’s trail, a far cry from the wide and mellow forest service standard. Those who persevere will find the rewards great. We got an early start–my party was walking by 6 a.m.– and cruised fast for the first mile, before peeling off onto the faint trail that broke steeply up to the east. We quickly ticked off the requisite vertical climb, glad to be doing it in the morning shade, and before long we came to a fork in the trail entering bright green vegetation. The right trail led to Lower Rumble Lake, but we went left, steeply, losing the trail but gaining an unnamed ridge that opens up above timberline, providing terrific views of the Swan and Mission Ranges. Along with the visibility came plenty of satisfying exposure, and soon we were pick-

ing our way along a knife-edge ridge, unable to see our high-point objective until cresting the false summit. But there it was, Holland Peak, just another thousand or so feet to it’s pinnacle. With most of the work done, we quickly scrambled up the ridge and then along its spine, soon tagging the summit. Stunning views of the Bob Marshall Wilderness spread out to the east, the Scapegoat Wilderness doing the same to the south. After a quick lunch we found the wellformed climber’s trail descending south. We scrambled down, through sloping snow and scree to Upper Rumble Lake where we ripped off our clothes and dove in between lingering icebergs. Two hours later we were at the car with daylight to spare, glad to be safely back before dark. How to get there: The Holland Peak trailhead is located 70 miles northeast of Missoula off Highway 83. Take Rumble Lakes Road east and park at the trailhead. The Heavenly Twins, 9,282 and 9,243 feet Of these three summits, the Twins are probably the most coveted, but least visited. Wellnamed and striking, their east face beckons to

the multitude of trail hikers who’ve slogged up the Bitterroot’s popular Saint Mary’s Peak (9,351 feet). But don’t fool yourself that the Twins are “right there.” They’re not. In this case, access is not part of the adventure; just drive to the Saint Mary’s Peak trailhead and stroll up to the lookout. By then you should be fully warmed up for the true adventure. Dropping off the high point to the southwest, follow the ridge through scree and krumholtz in a classic choose-your-ownadventure of meadows, boulder problems, swimming holes and snowfields (although the uncommitted will probably turn back somewhere along this persistent ridge). As you pick your way along—sometimes dropping south, sometimes staying near the top—the twin summits never stop looming, and ever so slowly, get closer. Finally you’ll find yourself standing beneath the towering south summit, and from here you can either head directly up (a sketchy route) or keep traversing west to an easier approach on the mountain’s Idaho side. From here it’s an easy scramble to the top of the taller south peak (9,282 feet) and a less easy scramble down and then back up to its smaller northern twin (9,243 feet)

Backtrack out, or scramble down the fairly committal east face, below which lies an easy traverse across to the approach trail separating the Twins from St. Mary’s Peak. From there, it’s a stroll all the way back to the car, just another six or so miles away. How to get there: Approach the Heavenly Twins via the St. Mary’s Peak Trailhead, west of Highway 93 just south of the Stevensville Wye. Gray Wolf Peak, 9,001 feet Although it’s hard to see from the valley, difficult to approach, and even more arduous to climb, the hardest part of this Mission Mountain test piece will probably be just getting down. It’s “only” 5,000 vertical feet from car to summit, but tack on another couple thousand—yes, thousand—vertical feet for the inevitable yo-yoing involved with climbing this massif. Since this is the southern-most high point of the Missions, you’ll be on the Flathead Reservation, meaning there’s no trail signage and a Tribal Recreation Permit will be required. But at $15 the permit’s a good value, valid for a year and available both on and around the reservation. continued on page 27

Photo by Chad Harder

Heavenly Twins: This late-day look of the Southern Twin, taken from its northern sister, shows both its “Idaho-side” scramble route, at right, and the long stroll out across the basin and through the snowy gap, shown on the far left.

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Whispering Pines Guest Cabin Georgetown Lake, MT

This beautiful cabin can accommodate up to 7 people. Come relax on the porch, soak in the hot tub and enjoy the many year-round recreational opportunities the area has to offer.


Our Lady of the Rockies Experience an incredible journey to the top of the Continental Divide and the site of Our Lady of the Rockies.

Daily tours – June through Sept. (call for reservations and prices)

3100 Harrison Ave. Butte, MT 59701 1-800-800-LADY 406-782-1221 26

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

Visit our unique gift shop at the Butte Plaza Mall

I’ve only climbed Gray Wolf once, but with all the inviting snowbound couloirs, funky towers and literal tunnels through the rock, I imagine it would be difficult to climb this mountain the same way twice. This is a good thing—and almost as good as the views. My party non-stopped the approach trail, and decided to scramble directly up the southeast ridge, picking our way through remnant snowfields and around rotten pillars of decomposing rock. Many nice cracks split apart the lichen-covered rock along this ridge, although a persistent scrambler should have no trouble linking non-technical gullies and traverses leading to the saddle separating the south and north summit. From here it’s an easy scramble to the true apex. Extraordinary views of East Saint Mary’s and other Mission spires tower to the north, while beneath lie the dwindling Gray Wolf Glacier and Gray Wolf Lake. Depending on the time of year, glissading down one of the snowy couloirs might

provide the best descent option, although beware of moats and ice and all the other dangers involved in remote alpine summits. We chose to descend the East Ridge, following wolverine tracks a ways before dropping back into the obvious southeast bowl and

traversing west towards our ascent route, arriving at the car just after dark. How to get there: The trailhead to Gray Wolf Peak is located above the Twin Lakes Campground, off Jocko Road, but there’s no sign or parking lot.

Photo by Chad Harder

Gray Wolf Peak: Lakes in the south-facing bowl below Gray Wolf Peak keep their icebergs well into August, providing mountaineers with a cool respite after a long day.

SWAN VALLEY TRAIL RIDES & FISHING FLOAT TRIPS Swan Mountain Outfitters offers you some of the most enjoyable fly fishing float trips you can experience in the scenic beauty on the Swan River. This river offers anglers the opportunity to catch and release Rainbow, Bull, Brook and Native Cutthroat trout in a section of truly “wild and scenic” waters. Fishing trips include lessons, and a lunch or a snack is included in the price of your trip.

Half and full day fishing trips. Scenic floats are also available.



Reservations are required



Trail rides with Swan Mountain Outfitters take you through Flathead National Forest with huge old growth trees and spectacular views of the Swan Valley, Mission and Swan Mountain ranges. Experience true mountain riding with scenery and views which are simply awe-inspiring. Instead of taking a trail ride close to town with residences nearby, why not go for the real deal?

N L A K E , M O N TA


Favorite ride is half day with lunch. Season: May - October.

Give us a call 1-800-919-4416 check out our website for additional information, rates and offerings. We accept Visa and Mastercard Under Permit from Flathead National Forest, Montana Outfitter 11300

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Guide to the Guides Staff suggestions on required reading, from paddling to peddling Paddling Montana Hank and Carol Fischer Falcon Guides $16.95 Missoula authors Hank and Carol Fischer, with the help of their son Kit, updated this longstanding boaters’ Bible earlier this year. The result is a spit-shined update—notes on the removal of the Milltown Dam, for instance—of 32 different river trips across the state. While the contents of this thoroughly comprehensive guide appear mostly the same, we still get a kick out of the “Insider Tips,” each of which seems awkwardly authentic. The Marias River provides a perfect example when the Fishers’ offer up this little nugget: “A great river for conceiving children. Our oldest son’s middle name is Marias.” Perhaps too much information, but with Paddling Montana that’s par for the course—and not necessarily a bad thing. All the vital stats are clearly listed for each float, as well as helpful hints like “Where the crowd goes” and “Avoiding the scene.” Needless to say, the “Avoiding the Scene” section of the Marias River section is pretty long. (Skylar Browning)

Montana Singletrack Beartooth Publishing $16.95 I’ve never needed much convincing to explore a new web of singletrack and therefore have little use for gaudy explanations (for a specimen, see my description of Pattee Canyon’s southern trails in this very issue). Frankly, the list of pertinent questions is short: How much technical trail? How long will the loop take? What are the chances of aggravating my Post Concussion Syndrome? Graphics and topo maps will do, thx. So, when I started paging through Beartooth’s brand-new guide at Missoula Bicycle Works, I quickly realized this resource was not merely a discretionary purchase. Montana Singletrack, simply put, contains pinpoint accurate synopses on 50 routes across western and central Montana— nothing else. No philosophical treatise. No overblown methodology section. Sweetness. The book offers topos for every ride and cross-sections, showing elevation gain by mile. The publisher opted to use a nine-point system to report on the road surfaces—from paved road (1) to portage (9)—which is far more useful than conventional benchmarks of novice, intermediate and advanced. I state with pleasure that some highly coveted trails were left out. Less stokingly, I report that the book “gives away” two un-freaking-real Tobacco Root trails: Curly Lake and Lost Cabin, which I now shamelessly repeat here. (Patrick M. Klemz)


Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

Rocky Mountain Natural History: Grand Teton to Jasper Daniel Mathews Raven Editions $26 There’s no shortage of guidebooks equipped to educate Montanans about our local rocks, birds, wildflowers, mammals, the berries they eat and, yes, even the scat that drops out of them. But the fact that books = weight, and weight = discomfort to the backpacker means that unless you’re interested in armchair reading at home, you’ll need a Sherpa to lug an appropriate reference library along with you. Unless, that is, you invest in Daniel Mathews’ Rocky Mountain Natural History. This book was written for every backpacker, knowledgeable scientists included, who wants a (quiet) expert on all things at their fingertips, but opts for light and fast instead of heavy and well researched. Were it not for this compendium’s 656 tissue-thin pages, I’d leave this remarkably informative guide at home, too. But in a single volume the author has managed to pack scientific but digestible information about the Northern Rockies’ thousands of plants, mammals, birds, invertebrates, fungi and the landscape upon which they live into what would be a most excellent Lay-Z-Boy read. But we don’t live here for the armchair experience—we’re here to suck the marrow from the high, windswept peaks and plunge headfirst and eyes open into crystalline alpine lakes. As such, anyone living in the Northern Rockies will find this far-reaching account of the geologic and evolutionary forces that created this magical place required reading, and hands down the single reference worth living its life in a knapsack. (Chad Harder)

Wildflowers of Montana Donald Anthony Schiemann Mountain Press Publishing Company $22 I’m not good at flower names. I’m the guy who gets tested on every hike, every drive and every tour of the backyard garden and repeatedly fails to remember even the simplest wild blossoms. Delphinium? I know it better as “that purple one.” Enter Schiemann’s guidebook. For someone like me, the first few pages offer a quickreference, dummy-proof tool: thumbnail pictures of every flower covered in the book, broken down by color and the type of petal. Below each flower’s picture are page numbers, directing those needing more detailed information to the full chapters in the back of the book. The complete descriptions cover everything from habitat and range to the flower’s characteristics. There are also some mildly amusing factoids thrown in, such as this little nugget: the milk from cows that eat pennycress (a common weed in grain fields or along roadsides) has a strong odor and bitter flavor that can be removed by special processing at dairy plants. Clearly, this book is packed with more than enough information for those who want it, and easy enough to navigate for those who need it. (Skylar Browning)

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008



Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Photo by Chad Harder

Some call it “Room with a View.” Others call it “the best 5.8 in the state.” We say it’s both.

Classic rock Scary turns simple when climbing Room with a View by Rob Harper verybody needs confidence. And if you’ve never rock-climbed before, or find yourself afraid of heights and wanting to punch-through those psychological barriers in Oprah-meets-David Lee Roth fashion (the former Van Halen singer being an expert big-wall climber), grab a knowledgeable climbing partner, some gear and head up to Lake Koocanusa’s Stone Hill. It’s

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Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

here where one of Montana’s most picturesque—and deceptively easy—climbing spots looms. “Room with a View” is a towering box of a rock. Known as “the best 5.8 in the state,” a reference to its technical difficulty (5.4 being easy and 5.14 being insanely difficult), it’s considered a classic entry-level climb. A southern-exposed sunny face ascent, nearly square, connects to another protruding cliff face overhanging the

stone’s southwest corner. In a few basic moves, climbers can move up from the roadside belay point to an exposed overhang that dangles you several hundred feet over the Koocanusa Reservoir. To the uninitiated, it’s an adrenaline-addled, wide-angle take on the Kootenai National Forest. During the lower portion of the climb, you’ll work your way underneath a small overhang before becoming more comfort-

able on the open face. You’ll notice as you climb, a virtual sound-trap amplifies noises below—wind whipping through trees, ATVs ripping along the beaches, or the occasional car cruising down Highway 37. But while the view from this rock is allencompassing, the route’s fame has come largely from its “crux” move, or the most difficult part of the climb. The crux move is the one you’ll cuss and spit over, but when you nail it, it’s a breakthrough moment. The rest is easy. In this case, the move is far more psychological than technical. For instance, the footholds and handholds are big, and even if it’s your first climb, you’ll have little trouble climbing the first roof and larger face. Then you’ll realize you’ve arrived at another larger overhanging roof. Your blood pressure will drop a little once you reach over it to find a nice comfortable jug to really grab onto. Then, you’ll

peek out over the roof and your heart will ramp back up again with the realization that your next move will force you to throw a left leg up-and-over the roof. It’s in that halfhanging, half-standing position, when you

This last pull, bringing the entire body over the ledge, will make you feel like a little kid trying to hoist yourself onto a counter, then suddenly realizing that the counter is several stories up, and inverted. It’s a full-on commitment, and if it’s your first time, it can be a psychologically-liberating event akin to jumping out of an airplane. It’s moves like this that make “Room With a View” a favorite of both newbies and vets. For me, even after many ascents, the rock still delivers the same enduring quality of, say, Led Zeppelin II. Some things are worth going back to. They’re just that good.

“In a few basic moves, climbers can move up from the roadside belay point to an exposed overhang that dangles you several hundred feet over Lake Koocanusa. To the uninitiated, it’s an adrenaline-addled, wide-angle take on the Kootenai National Forest.” can start to take in the sweeping view. (Any nervous beginners are advised to ignore this. Look up, not down, and simply enjoy the view from the top. But if you chicken out, there’s a big cave-like ledge to rest on underneath, the literal “Room with a View,” where you can recite affirmations or have an emotional breakdown.)

How to get there: From Missoula, drive approximately 200 miles northwest to the Kootenai National Forest southwest of Eureka. “Room with a View” is on the west side of Highway 37, three miles south of the Koocanusa Bridge.

Photo by Chad Harder

Feeling dry, dusty and stinky, climbers? Walk downhill to find relief in the refreshing turquoise waters of Lake Koocanusa.

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Faith: noun 1. Confidence or trust in a person or thing: faith in another's ability.

FAITH FRAZIER Realtor cell 406.529.3444

"Relocating? First time home buyer? Just plain curious? Call me, I'd love to chat."

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877-336-8369 ext. 1613 An Opportunity Not To Be Missed 34

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

"We create real estate investors"



3 bedroom/ 2.5 bath condo in central Missoula location. Perfect opportunity for a student.

3 bedroom/ 2 bath home with 150 feet of riverfront in Missoula. A truly rare find.

Cute 2 bedroom home in Missoula on 2 lots. Priced to sell!

Pat cares about Missoula's environment • Board of Directors for Home Resource • Sponsor for "Recycling in the Schools" at Lewis & Clark Elementary • Sustainable Business Council and MontPIRG member • Sponsor for MUD's Annual Earth Day Celebration

Pat has solid footing in real estate • Broker/Owner of Properties 2000 • Certified Residential Specialist • Top Producer since 2003

Contact Pat Missoula's rock-steady real estate agent for a quality home buying or selling experience. Call 240-7653 (SOLD).

I like the sound of that, 240-SOLD! Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Photo by Chad Harder

Staying young at heart Summer sledding at the Crown of the Continent by Rob Harper e may get larger, slower and, hopefully, wiser over time, but some of us don’t really grow up. We’re the types who persistently hold onto some childhood dream or two we could never follow-through on, like building our own Swiss-family-Robinson-sized tree house

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Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

or a go-cart with a water-balloon cannon attached to the top. If these are the sorts of nostalgic mid-life afflictions you face, then perhaps you’re also still into sledding. That’s right—sledding. Even as the temperature starts to turn up in the Missoula valley, our mountaintops maintain snow well into the spring. (And, considering this year’s weather, maybe even longer.) That means

ample opportunity to adhere to the age-old adage of “If you can see it, you can ski it”— or, in this case, sled it. One of the most popular spots is Logan Pass on Glacier National Park’s Going-to-theSun Road. There you’ll find an easy-access sledding hill to rival any of your wildest childhood dreams, featuring an expansive mile-long path and a dizzying panoramic

view atop the continental divide at what’s known as “the Crown of the Continent.” Logan Pass is usually a bustling zoo of mindless bug-eyed tourists on parade from the Visitor’s Center. You’ll have to brave an easy, one-mile hike along the Hidden Lake Trail—the Park’s easiest and most well-known boardwalk—as a member of this circus. But, here’s the thing: Everything you’ve just seen on your right as you were walking up, that’s now your personal sledding hill. It’s also the place where you’re about to cause deep and lasting anger among all little kids who got dragged out here by their parents. When they see what you’re about to do from the boardwalk, decades of parental resentment over Dad’s not packing a sled will begin.

Veer off the boardwalk once you get toward the top of the hill, but only if there’s

for the right line. From atop the snow fields, take a load off, absorb the view and plan your long descent. There’s some important gear you’ll need before you get here, of course. Usual sledding vessels apply. Sunglasses will prevent blinding glare, and tanning lotion is usually a must. If you choose to ride a tube, or a really fast sled like a Flexible Flyer, wear a helmet. Lastly, make a safety leash for yourself with rope and duct tape—give yourself several feet and connect your foot with your tube or sled. This way you can bail out knowing your sled will stay with you. Otherwise, all the hard work you spent getting up here, experiencing a little slice of winter fun, will be for naught.

“It’s also the place where you’re about to cause deep and lasting anger among all little kids who got dragged out here by their parents. When they see what you’re about to do from the boardwalk, decades of parental resentment over Dad’s not packing a sled will begin.” still snow—otherwise you’re stomping on precious alpine vegetation and are subject to a ticket from a Park Ranger. Head to your right as far as you see fit, traversing underneath Reynolds’ massive multi-jutting face

Photo by Chad Harder

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


days of summer 90

Photo by Chad Harder


Friday 6 June

It’s First Friday, which means downtown Missoula is overCap off another Hump Day flowing with art galleries, Plus One with food, drinks and fellow workers during coffeeshops and political Downtown ToNight in action groups proudly hostMissoula’s Caras Park, where ing the works of local artists. The Clumsy Lovers com- Take a stroll through the pete for your attention. area, dig the complimentary grub and hooch and then 5:30–8:30 PM. Free. 38 Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008 Thursday 5 June

slink on to your next engagement with the selfsatisfaction borne of a run-in with high culture. Nobody loves their dancers like Missoula, which is why the grand opening of the Downtown Dance Collective, 121 W. Main St., is such a big deal. After a First

Friday art show featuring the work of Terry Cyr, an 8 PM dance performance warms the house with gyration by Headwaters Dance Company, Unity Dance and Drum, Ballet Arts, Gillian Kessler, Celeste Bolin and many more. $10/$7 members. Call 360-8763.

BEST WESTERN ROCKY MOUNTAIN LODGE • Convenient Location • Free Amtrak and airport shuttle • Free high-speed internet access

• 79 guest rooms including suites with Jacuzzis • Free Deluxe Continental breakfast

6510 Hwy. 93 S. Whitefish, MT, 59937 • 406-862-2569 •

5506 Highway 2 West • Columbia Falls, MT 59912 • 406-892-0009 • 800-457-5335 • Fax: 406-892-0061


Stumptown Art Studio Your non-profit community art center! Walk in anytime Mon - Sat 10 - 6 pm or Sundays 10 - 4pm and paint your own pottery, try glass fusing and mosaics. Art camps for kids all summer long.

145 Central Avenue in Whitefish 406-862-5929

1-888-530-1700 • Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Saturday 7 June

Wednesday 11 June

Communities around Western Montana host Farmers’ Markets, featuring local produce, flowers, baked goods and crafts—in Missoula at Circle Square, on Pine Street and under the Higgins Avenue bridge, in Stevensville at Third and Main streets, in Hamilton at South Third and Bedford streets and in Kalispell at Center Street and 5th Avenue. 9 AM–noon.

Food vendors, ice cream sellers and coffee shop drips emerge for Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras Park, this week with music from Margi and the Smoking Jackets and Blue Onion. 11 AM–2 PM. Free.

Unsure about the name of our state flower? Visit the 28 th annual Bitter Root Days celebration hosted by the Ravalli County Museum in downtown Hamilton, from 9 AM to 2 PM today and 1 to 4 PM tomorrow, promising arts, crafts and food as well as over 1,000 blossoms of Montana’s state flower, the Bitterroot. Tuesday 10 June


Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

Thursday 12 June Prove that age brings not only wisdom, but talent and athleticism, at the Butte’s Montana Senior Olympics Summer Games, which invites men and women 50 and older to partake in events including archery, bowling, cycling, golf, tennis, walking, water sports and more. Call 586-5543. Dance first and ask questions later at Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food from the locals and music from Anna McGary and The Thirsty Three. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free.

The Bitterroot National Forest sponsors an Introduction to Geocaching, the GPS-based hunt for stashed canisters containing a log book and possibly even prizes, beginning at 9 AM at the gazebo in Kiwanis/River Park in Hamilton. Bring your own GPS unit or call Janeen at 381-2951 to borrow one.

Cutler Brothers Productions begins a twoweekend run of the familyfriendly duo of plays Blind Date and Of Thee I Sing at 7:30 PM in the Gunport Theatre located in the middle of Deer Lodge’s Old Montana Prison Museum. Shows run Thu.–Sat. and cost $10. Call 846-3111.

Cover the basics of the art when the Canoe Rack presents an Introduction to Recreational Kayaking class at 6 PM at their store on the Clark Fork River.A boat and gear to use are included in the $45 fee, so take advantage of this opportunity to sample the sport once you call 251-0040.

Honoring the homesteaders and settlers who called dibs, Hot Springs’ annual Homesteader Days Celebration takes place through Sun., June 15, and promises rodeos, parades, live music, a powwow, 3K and 6K runs, an antique car show and more. Call 741-2662.

Friday 13 June

Nothing kicks off Western Heritage Days in Stevensville like a good old fashioned parade with games, BBQ, dutch oven desserts, crafts, a Native American art show, music and food, as well as living history activities, wagon rides, antiques, rodeos and more continuing through tomorrow. Call 777-3773. Here’s to overlapping events: the Chief Victor Days Celebration begins at 5:30 PM and pays homage through Sun., June 15, at Victor Park in Victor. Highlights include Friday’s fireman’s dinner, a parade, a 5K run, a photographic scavenger hunt and more. Call 642-3924. Explore the sagebrush habitat in the foothills of the Sapphire Mountains when the Bitterroot National Forest hosts the Willoughby Wildflower Walk at 4 PM at the Willoughby Environmental Education Area. The mellow one-mile flower walk will take roughly two hours. Call 363-7172 for directions and more information. Keep it a bit more local, if no less internally-combustive, when Montana Harley Davidson Buell sponsors Hot Harley Nights—which we can only assume involves lots of folks keeping the fun between their legs—at 6:30 PM in Caras Park. Call 721-2154. Saturday 14 June Communities around Western Montana host Farmers’ Markets, featuring local produce, flowers, baked goods and crafts—in Missoula at Circle Square, on Pine Street and under the Higgins


fish-droppin’ fun

Oh, ye patriots—is there any better way to express your newfound hope for change and a return to respectful foreign policy than attending a few innings of local baseball? Aside from eating a slice of apple pie in the presence of your mom, the quickest and most gratifying way to demonstrate your love of freedom is to partake in all the fanfare and regalia attendant with our national pastime. The Missoula Osprey celebrate their 10th season this summer, and the promotional pandemonium reaches a fever pitch. While the freebies begin with something of a whimper—the first 2,000 fans at the June 17 season opener get a magnetic

Photo by Sarah Daisy Lindmark

tickets for bicyclists every Tue.; a shot at $10,000 every Thu.; free airfare for two to Phoenix, AZ, every Fri.; and Kid’s Day every Sun., when a child-centric game leads to the WHAT: Missoula Osprey Baseball Games chance to runs the bases and WHEN: Tue., June 17–Sun., Aug. 31, 7:05 PM play catch on the field afterward. WHERE: Ogren Park at Allegiance Field Of course, a flood of HOW MUCH: $4–9 in advance/$1 gameday swag—from bobblehead dolls surcharge and caps to mini bats and more—would count for nothing MORE INFO: without the indomitable spirit of your Missoula Osprey, who game schedule—they pick up rapidly, as slug and chug their beaks off this sumthe next evening sees 10th anniversary mer. baseballs distributed to the first 750 true Now, when’s flag lapel pin night? blue attendees. From there, the weekly —Jonas Ehudin home game promos include two-for-one

Avenue bridge, in Stevensville at Third and Main streets, in Hamilton at South Third and Bedford streets and in Kalispell at Center Street and 5th Avenue. 9 AM–noon.

It’s National Get Outdoors trailhead, which is roughly Day—geez, is it June 14 nine miles south of already?—and the Bitterroot Hamilton. The 4.5-mile trek National Forest requests is considered easy to modyour presence for a hike at erate in difficulty and direc10 AM at the Coyote Coulee tions to the trailhead can be Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008 41

yours when you call Janeen at 381-2951. Oi, mate—it’s New Zealand Day, so get to the Fort Missoula Rugby Pitch for a touch rugby skills clinic at 11 AM, to be followed by a 5 PM “Palmerston North” pizza party at The Bridge and a few films from down under at the Roxy Theater at 7:30. Prices range from free to a $3 suggested donation. Call 532-3240 or visit missoula Sunday 15 June

In this fascinating photo from his recent alien abduction, hard core troubadour Steve Earle sports the svelte demeanor—the result of extraterrestrial experimentation?—he brings to the University Theatre on July 12, where he plays with wife and sweet canary Allison Moorer at 8 PM. $32 plus fees. Visit

As a nation and a local community, we extend our sincere thanks to the women and men placed in harm’s way through military service, and beginning at noon, you can get down to Caras Park for a chance to do

Large Gift Shop, Snacks, Sodas & Ice Cream Guided Tours Daily 10AM - 5PM 42

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Experience the warmth of Montana hospitality... Known for our affordable lodging rates, hearty continental breakfasts, and "never met a stranger" hospitality, the Historic Tamarack Lodge sits nestled in a scenic mountain valley in the heart of the Montana Rockies surrounded by the Flathead National Forest. We truly are a four-season destination and offer – within a five-mile radius – an array of activities appealing to all ages and interests.

9549 US Highway 2 East • Hungry Horse, MT 59919 • 406-387-4220 •

Our Apgar Ticket Office can be reached by taking the first left after the West Glacier Entrance Station and following the signs that read "Horseback Rides." This location offers a variety of trail rides, many of which are great for beginners. As you wind through lodgepole forests and scenic meadows, listening to the sounds of McDonald Creek, be sure to keep an eye out for deer, elk, and beavers.

Our Many Glacier Ticket Office is located on the east side of the park, across the parking lot from Many Glacier Hotel. Trail rides from this location offer the most extensive exploration of Glacier's backcountry – sweeping panoramic views, hidden mountain lakes and glacier-carved valleys abound.

Our Lake McDonald Corral is located on the west side of the park across from Lake McDonald Lodge, just east of Going-To-TheSun Road. Rides from this location take you through lush forests, showcasing majestic trees and wild flowers. From Lake McDonald, you can also access picturesque Sperry Chalet, an historic chalet nestled in a high alpine setting. Swan Mountain Outfitters is authorized by the National Park Service, Department of the Interior, to serve the public in Glacier National Park.

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Make your next get-together a good ol’ fashioned backyard bbq! 406-541-7427 2915 North Reserve St Missoula

so personally: The Welcome Home Celebration honors all Missoula veterans and their families, and is free and open to the public. Call 360-8731.

Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food from the locals and limb-loosening music from Salsa Loca. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free.

Monday 16 June

Of course, you could take in an entirely different shot of culture at 5:30 PM at the Missoula Art Museum, where Artini: Zen blends a custom martini, a 7 PM gallery talk from exhibiting artist Julia Becker and live tunes from Joan Zen. Free.

Learn equine essentials at Wildlife Adventures Youth Horsemanship Camp in Victor. Sessions run June 16–20 and 24–28 and July 7–11. Organizers promise packing demonstrations, trail rides, guest speakers, classes and nightly bonfires. Call 642-3262 or 888-642-1010. Tuesday 17 June Hold onto your fish, Missoula Osprey fans, because tonight kicks off a season-opening, three-game series against our bitter rival, the Billings Mustangs. All games at 7:05. Call 543-3300.



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Wednesday 18 June Enjoy an intimate meal with 300 friends during Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras Park, with local and live music from One Less Karen as well as Blue Rock Shop. 11 AM–2 PM. Free. Bring a lawn chair and a jacket for this evening’s Monthly Moonwalk, titled “Beetle Moon,” which begins at 7 PM at the Charles Waters campground and includes presentations on beetle infestation by entomologists from the Bitterroot National Forest. Drive 25 miles south from Missoula, turn west onto the Bass Creek Road and the campground is on roughly two miles. Call 375-2606. Thursday 19 June

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Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

Dance first and rub arnica on your hips later at

Friday 20 June Get an early start on sweeping the steps of the empire when anarcho-stringsters Devil Makes Three fill The Loft, 424 N. Higgins Ave., with that joyful postindustrial-collapse sound at 9 PM. $8. Saturday 21 June Your veggie bin—not to mention your meat cupboard—is looking a might bit bare: Western Montana responds with several Farmer’s Markets, featuring local produce, flowers, baked goods and crafts—in Missoula at Circle Square, on Pine Street and under the Higgins Avenue bridge, in Stevensville at Third and Main streets, in Hamilton at South Third and Bedford streets and in Kalispell at Center Street and Fifth Avenue. 9 AM–noon. Monday 23 June Learn several things or two about outdoor survival and first aid when the Bitterroot National Forest sponsors a Blodgett Overlook Hike at 9 AM, beginning at the Blodgett Overlook Trailhead near Hamilton. The threemile hike will incorporate

stunning views and lessons to prepare you for unexpected emergencies. Call 375-9317. It’s an in-state throw-down at the old ballpark when the Missoula Osprey begin a five-game homestand against both Billings and Great Falls beginning tonight. All games at 7:05. Call 543-3300. Tuesday 24 June Geocaching is the activity that’s bound to have us all burying and digging stuff up in the woods, and the Bitterroot National Forest wants you to ride the wave of excitement when they present Geocaching 101 starting at 6 PM in the gazebo at Kiwanis/River Park in Hamilton. Bring your own GPS unit or call Janeen at 381-2951 to borrow one. Wednesday 25 June Food vendors, ice cream sellers and coffee shop drips all come out for Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras Park, with local and live music from the Ed Norton Big Band. 11 AM–2 PM. Free. Thursday 26 June Dance first and clean the coal dust off your face later at Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food from the locals and music from Blue Collar. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free. If you’re lucky, the Swainson’s Thrush and its lovely song will accompany you on the Larry Creek Fire Ecology Trail hike at 6 PM. This 2.5-mile hike features some pulse-pounding elevation gain, and begins at the Larry Creek Day Use Area. Call 777-7416 for directions.


on the run

For you runners out there looking for some motivation during training or perhaps around the 13-mile mark of the second annual Missoula Marathon, just think of Dean Karnazes. Never heard of him? That’s fine. He doesn’t have much to do with Missoula (although we did

Photo courtesy of Polly Gray

2007 Wired magazine feature—aptly titled “The Perfect Human”—he admitted to scarfing down Hawaiian pizza, chocolate éclairs, cheesecake and cinnamon buns during his long treks because fat contains roughly twice as many calories per gram as carbohydrates, and that’s what he needs to refuel.

WHAT: The Missoula Marathon WHEN: Sun., July 13, 6 AM WHERE: Begins in Frenchtown, ends on the Higgins Avenue bridge HOW MUCH: $70 to register before July 11; free to watch write about his book in 2005). But Karnazes has turned long-distance running into something of a hobby. He burns through miles on foot like the rest of us do in an airplane. Specifically, he once covered 350 miles without stopping to sleep (it took him three days).Another time—this’ll make you feel good as you strain to the next water station—he ran 50 consecutive marathons in 50 days in 50 states. That’s all fine and, well, ridiculous, but here’s what we like most about Karnazes: He loves junk food. When interviewed in a

This has us thinking about “training” for this year’s local event. We’ve already heard that last year’s well-received course has been improved, that generous crowds of well-wishers lined the final stretch, and that despite last summer’s record-breaking heatwave the cool Missoula morning kept runners feeling spry. Oh, and there’s also the fact that the first 2,008 runners who sign up are eligible to win $2,008 in Southgate Mall gift cards, which could buy us plenty of Hawaiian pies at Bob’s Pizza and cheesecake Blizzards at Dairy Queen. So, sign us up, and just remind us of Dean when we’re huffing to the finish line. —Skylar Browning

Cover the basics of the art when the Canoe Rack presents an Introduction to Recreational Kayaking class at 6 PM at their store on the Clark Fork River. A boat and gear to use are included in the $45 fee, so take advantage of this opportunity to sample the sport. For info 251-0040.

Friday 27 June Here’s hoping gas is still under $6 a gallon when the 8th annual Garden City River Rod Run brings over 200 hot rods and classic cars to Missoula’s Caras Park at 4 PM—with a 9 PM parade down Higgins Avenue—and

resumes at 10 AM on Sat., June 28. Free. Call 543-4238. Giddyup when the Senior Pro Rodeo at the Ravalli County Fairgrounds in Hamilton extracts whoopin’, hollerin’ and cheerin’ from those attendin’ today and Sat., June 28, at 7 PM.

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Contestants from five states and several Canadian provinces compete in the Western Montana Quarter Horse Association Horse Show, taking place in Corvallis today through Sun., June 29. Call (208) 683-1617.

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Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


The beer tastes better when the Missoula Osprey kick off a three-game series against the Helena Brewers beginning tonight. All games at 7:05. Call 543-3300. Wednesday 2 July

Get up to the Lolo Peak Visitor Center by 7:30 AM so you can feel the burn during the Mountain to Meadow Half Marathon and 5K Fun Run, which is limited to 225 runner/walkers, so hurry up and call (208) 942-0008.

Food vendors, ice cream sellers and coffee shop drips all come out for Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras Park, with live music from the Federico Brothers as well as the Big Sky Mudflaps. 11 AM–2 PM. Free.

Run 5K or 10K during the 31st Whitefish Lake Run in Whitefish. Call 862-3111.

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Tuesday 1 July

Saturday 28 June

Communities around Western Montana host Farmers’ Markets, featuring local produce, flowers, baked goods and crafts—in Missoula at Circle Square, on Pine Street and under the Higgins Avenue bridge, in Stevensville at Third and Main streets, in Hamilton at South Third and Bedford streets and in Kalispell at Center Street and Fifth Avenue. 9 AM–noon.

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The Ninepipes Museum of Early Montana is at it again with this year’s Old Time Social featuring all sorts of Western tomfoolery, including a high-noon gunfight, an archery shoot, a cross-cut saw contest as well as fair food staples like hamburgers and fry bread. Events start at 11 AM just 6 miles south of Ronan on Highway 93. Call 644-3435. Sunday 29 June Haunting tones and sweet melodies fill Caras Park at 2 PM, where the Renaissance of the Native American Flute features a concert and more. Call 726-3353.

Thursday 3 July Dance first and take a trip to the spay/neuter clinic later at Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food from the locals and some music from The Tom Cats. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free. Friday 4 July Happy Independence Day! Celebrate at the Splash Montana Independence Day Party, which begins at 10 AM. Call 721-PARK. And once it gets quasi-dark, check out Southgate Mall’s fireworks show beginning at 10:30 PM. Of course, you could opt for something a li’l more country: Dierks Bentley rocks Playfair Park at 6 PM with Robert Earl Keen and Micky and the Motorcars, an event which includes the requisite fireworks display as well. Call 543-3300. Celebrate the 4th of July with Stevensville’s Annual Pig-nic, a community potluck and freedomfest—with meat and drink provided—that takes place at noon at Lewis and Clark Park. View and buy art from over 100 regional artists when the


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Cover the basics of the art when the Canoe Rack presents an Introduction to Recreational Kayaking class at 6 PM at their store on the Clark Fork River. A boat and gear to use are included in the $45 fee, so take advantage of this opportunity to sample the sport once you call 251-0040. Thursday 10 July It’s the Independent Best of Missoula Night, sponsored by yours truly, at Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food, drink and tunes from last year’s top band,Tom Catmull & the Clerics, as well as other top Missoula bands. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free. Friday 11 July

Photo by Chad Harder

29th annual Whitefish Arts Festival runs through Sun., July 6, at Parkside Credit Union Park in Whitefish. The galleries, shops and restaurants of downtown Missoula and Stevensville celebrate First Friday with art exhibits, bands and refreshments, beginning at 5 PM. Free.

local produce, flowers, baked goods and crafts—in Missoula at Circle Square and under the Higgins Avenue bridge, in Stevensville at Third and Main streets, in Hamilton at South Third and Bedford streets and in Kalispell at Center Street and Fifth Avenue. 9 AM–noon.

Saturday 5 July

Tuesday 8 July

Communities around What’s a Chukar? Find out Western Montana host when the Missoula Osprey Farmers’ Markets, featuring commence a seven-game 48 Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

homestand against the Casper Ghosts and Idaho Falls Chukars beginning tonight. All games at 7:05, except Sun. at 5 PM. Call 543-3300. Wednesday 9 July Food vendors, ice cream sellers and coffee shop drips all come out for Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras Park, with live music from the Broken Valley Roadshow as well as Smoke. 11 AM–2 PM. Free.

Enjoy music, food and dessert during the 27 th annual Hellgate Rendezvous, a juried arts and crafts show that takes place on the Missoula County Courthouse lawn in downtown Missoula today from noon to 7 PM and Sat., July 12, from 10 AM to 6 PM. Flathead’s art scene heads south for the weekend during the Artists and Craftsmen of the Flathead Summer Outdoor Show, which takes place through Sun., July 13, next to the courthouse in Kalispell. Call 755-6323. Celebrate the culture we’ve amassed in the past 232 years when you travel to Butte for the 70th annual National Folk Festival, three d ay s o f mu s i c , c r a f t s , demonstrations and more. F re e . V i s i t n a t i o n a l f o l k

Saturday 12 July A feverish sweat covers Caras Park as the Missoula Marathon Registration and Expo takes place all day, beginning at 8 AM, and leads into the real deal— the big, long run, that is— on Sun., July 13 at 6 AM. Break a leg! The route’s still up in the air—or, technically, down on the river—but the date’s firmly set for the third annual Bitterroot Floating Weed Pull, which begins at 12:30 PM and includes a free postpull barbecue and prize drawing. Children above the age of eight are invited along, inner tubes are to be left at home and for Pete’s sake, bring your sunscreen and/or a big hat. RSVP with the Ravalli County Weed District at 777-5842. Endure one or all of six different legs of the 6th annual Glacier Challenge, a 55-mile race that includes a 10K run, canoe race, road bike, mountain bike, kayak and 5K run around Whitefish and promises music and free food at an after-race party. Call 250-9899. Missoula b-ballers show off their skills on the court at the annual 3-on-3 Street Jam, taking place in the parking lot of Northgate plaza, located near the intersection of Mullan Road and North Reserve Street. Call 543-6623 or visit missoula If your name happens to be Ben McCulloch, I’d recommend avoiding the UM Adams Center, where Steve Earle and his wife Allison Moorer dig up them old Civil War resentments—to be fair, they’ll sing about

other stuff as well—at 8 PM. $32 plus fees. Visit Tuesday 15 July Whitefish’s Alpine Theatre Project begins a two-week run of The Full Monty, a toetapping tribute to men and their quest for dignity, with Tue.–Sat. shows at 8 PM and 3 PM Sun. matinees, at the Whitefish Performing Arts Center, 600 E. Second St. $30/$35 premium/$16 students/$12 under 13. Call 862-SHOW or visit Wednesday 16 July Flee the office—or simply get out of your kayak—for Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras Park, with live music from Zoo City and Full Grown Men. 11 AM–2 PM. Free. Thursday 17 July Dance first and take your guns to town later at Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food from the locals and some quick-drawin’ live music from ShoDown. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free. Alternately, get your art on at the Missoula Art Museum, where Artini: Grasshopper features a smooth custom martini and a gallery talk from exhibiting artist Gaylen Hansen, and it all starts at 5:30 PM. Free. Friday 18 July Artists take it to the streets—well, the fields, really—for seven days of sketching during the Dana Gallery’s fifth annual Paint Out, with completed works displayed on Wed., July 23, at 246 N. Higgins Ave. Call 721-3154. Bring seniors in wheel-

chairs and babies in strollers to Claudia Driscoll Park in Hamilton at 11:15 for the Intergenerational Walk and Roll, a hike and games event that proves there’s no excuse for staying indoors on a day as lovely as this one. Bring a picnic lunch and get ready for active games for the kids. Call 363-1102. Take your classic car for a spin around Sanders County during the Rods & Classics Annual Show & Shine by a Dam Site, taking place at Ainsworth Field in Thompson Falls today and Sat., July 21. Call 827-4485. Stitch together your weekend at the Seeley Lake Quilt Festival, which takes place through Sat., July 19, and promises quilting demonstrations, craft sales and a raffle at the Seeley Lake Elementary School. Call 677-2880. Show the trees and their huggers who’s boss during Darby’s 7th annual Logger Days, featuring scores of logging competitions and a parade Sat. morning at the south end of Darby on Hwy. 93. Call 821-4151. Step, step, hop at the 4th annual Northwest Montana Polka Festival, being held at Kalispell Eagles Aerie #234 today through Sun. with polka music as well as Latin, Cajun and country stylings. $10/$25 weekend pass. Call 883-6151.

Pine Street and under the Higgins Avenue bridge, in Stevensville at Third and Main streets, in Hamilton at South Third and Bedford streets and in Kalispell at Center Street and Fifth Avenue. 9 AM–noon. The Miracle of America Museum on Hwy. 93 in Polson puts on Live History Days—two days of demonstrations by blacksmiths, spinners, quilters, weavers and other artists as well as exhibitions of cars, tractors and heavy machinery of all sorts along with country music and dancing. Call 883-6804. Slide into those too-tight jeans and prepare your palate for a fiesta when the Hip Strip Block Party shimmies all around beginning at 5 PM on the 500 block of South Higgins Avenue. It must be that time of the month again—time for the Bitterroot National Forest’s Monthly Moonwalk, which this month carries the moniker “CCC Moon,” and pays tribute to the 75-year old Civilian Conservation Corps with a walk beginning at 7 PM at the north shore of Lake Como, which is just north of Darby. Bring a lawn chair and a flashlight, and call 375-2606 for more information. Sunday 20 July

If all-you-can-pick raspberries don’t make your mouth water maybe the other food, Saturday 19 July music and games—not to C o m m u n i t i e s a r o u n d mention hot tunes from the Western Montana host AM String Band—sprouting Farmers’ Markets, featuring up are reason enough to get local produce, flowers, baked you up to the Raspberry Jam g o o d s a n d c r a f t s — i n at Arlee’s Common Ground Missoula at Circle Square, on Farm. Call 726-2900. Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008 49

Wednesday 23 July Carve out some time between breakfast and dinner for Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras Park, this week with local live music from Salsa Loca and Zeppo, MT. 11 AM–2 PM. Free. Thursday 24 July

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Come see just what horses can do at the four-day Event at Rebecca Farm, an equestrian competition featuring dressage, cross-country, steeplechase and stadium jumping that takes place today through Sun. at 1385 Farm to Market Rd in Whitefish. Call 755-3276. Dance first and molt later at Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food from the locals and live music from Full Grown Men. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free. Cover the basics of the art when the Canoe Rack presents an Introduction to Recreational Kayaking class at 6 PM at their store on the Clark Fork River.A boat and gear to use are included in the $45 fee, so take advantage of this opportunity to sample the sport once you call 251-0040. Trek through both dense woods and a recent burned area when the Bitterroot National Forest leads a three-mile hike on the Tin Cup Trail at 6 PM. Meet at the Darby Ranger Station, and wear shoes that can get wet. Call 381-2951. Find out who rules among Montana’s Pioneer League teams when the Missoula Osprey begin a four-game homestand against Great Falls and Helena beginning this evening. All games at 7:05, except Sun. at 5 PM. Call 543-3300.


Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

They say goldfish have no memory, which means it’s pointless to bring yours to the Wilma Theatre at 8 PM, when Ani DiFranco and her band give us all something to shout about. $40/$36 advance. Try Rockin Rudy’s for tickets. Friday 25 July Celebrate the founder of Hamilton (and owner of the Anaconda Copper Mine), Marcus Daly, today and Sat., July 26, during Daly Days in Hamilton, which feature a Friday night Street Dance, the Bitterrodder Car Show and a Pinewood Derby race on Sat. Kalispell’s Depot Park hosts the 40th annual Arts in the Park—a benefit for the Hockaday Museum of Art that takes place today through Sun. and promises the work of over 100 regional and national artists as well as art activities for children and food, music and performance for everyone. $3/$5 weekend pass. Call 755-5268. Saturday 26 July Ball it up at this year’s Flathead Lake Hoopfest.The 3-on-3 tournament fills the streets with basketball courts for dribblers of all ages, with slam dunk and 3-point competitions throughout the weekend. Call 883-5255. Communities around Western Montana host Farmers’ Markets, featuring local produce, flowers, baked goods and crafts—in Missoula at Circle Square, on Pine Street and under the Higgins Avenue bridge, in Stevensville at Third and Main streets, in Hamilton at South Third and Bedford streets and in Kalispell at Center Street and Fifth Avenue. 9 AM–noon.

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Celebrate northwest Montana’s wild lands and support the Yaak Valley Forest Council’s stewardship work when you attend the fifth annual Yaak Wilderness Festival at the notorious Dirty Shame Saloon in “downtown” Yaak. Audience favorites Sol Jibe, Alan Lane and Amy Martin are among the performers, and children’s activities, vendors, free camping and a raffle round it all out. Call 295-9736 or visit Wednesday 30 July Food vendors, ice cream sellers and coffee shop drips all come out for Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras Park, this week with music from Erik “Fingers” Ray as well as Tom Catmull and the Clerics. 11 AM–2 PM. Free. Thursday 31 July Dance first and ask forgiveness later at Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food from the locals and live music from Bob Wire. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free.

AUGUST Friday 1 August Bring along the bulk Lactaid and get your fill of buttermilk during the 96th annual Stevensville Creamery Picnic through Sat., Aug. 2, featuring live entertainment both days as well as a Sat. parade and car show along with the Montana State Barbecue Cook-off. Call 777-7210.


root ball

If the past is any indication—and historians report it typically is—there are a couple of ways this thing could go down. If this year’s River City Roots Fest follows its inaugural form, monsoon rains will douse revelers, dampening enthusiasm. But if it’s more like last year—kudos to planners, who bumped the 2007 party up three weeks—the grand soiree will feature blazWHAT: Third Annual River City Roots Fest WHEN: Sat., Aug. 23, 9 AM–10:30 PM and Sun., Aug. 24, 9 AM–7:30 PM WHERE: Downtown Missoula HOW MUCH: Free MORE INFO:

ing blue skies over city blocks packed with blissed-out locals and guests alike. Organized around a dependable format, Roots Fest begins Saturday morning with a juried art show, an exhibit that’s up for viewing all weekend and could seed your regional art collection. Caras Park takes on a carnival atmosphere of face painting, bubbles, inflatable what-have-yous and other

Saturday 2 August The Flathead Valley’s artisans head to Bigfork this weekend when more than 100 artists display and sell their work from 10 AM to 5 PM at the 30th annual Festival of the Arts in Bigfork, which also takes place on Sun., Aug. 3.

The galleries, shops and restaurants of downtown Missoula and Stevensville celebrate First Friday with art exhibits, bands and refreshments, beginning at 5 PM. 52 Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

Photo courtesy of Polly Gray

activities designed for the younger crowd. Meanwhile, the main stage, which claims a full right-of-way perched across Main Street, hosts a music marathon beginning at noon, with Tom Catmull & the Clerics, the Mike Bader Blues Band, Reverend Slanky, the South Austin Jug Band and an evening of jammy rock from Great American Taxi and the Emmitt-Nershi Band, pictured. Our second day of Missoula pride features a four-mile run in the morning, a great way to work off the donuts, falafel and fries you bought from street vendors the day before. And once the endorphins are happily circulating, keep the buzz rolling with more music on the main stage from David Boone, Broken Valley Roadshow, Wylie and the Wild West, Martha Scanlan and the Stuart Brothers, and The Clumsy Lovers. It should be two days that, once again, make local history.

The Great Falls Voyagers—a new nickname for the Great Falls team—feature a logo with a baseball-looking alien riding a spaceship, and cool new green-and-red uniforms. See for yourself when they play the Missoula Osprey in a four-game series

—Jonas Ehudin

beginning tonight. All games at 7:05, except Sun. at 5 PM. Call 543-3300. Tuesday 5 August While you’re unlikely to run into a guy with a pickled chameleon again this year, continued on page 56

Mon-Sat 10-7 Sun 12-5

Explore the Missoula Art Museum during these unforgettable exhibitions! Encaustic Invitational through July 19 // Willard Juried Exhibition through June 27 // Gaylen Hansen through August 24 // Joe Feddersen through August 22 // Julia Becker through August 28 // MAM Collection July 30 – October 25 // Persian Visions September 2 - November 22 // The Wide Open September 5 - November 29

MISSOULA ART MUSEUM 406.728.0447 // Free Admission. Free Expression. Image credit: Joe Feddersen, Stealth, 2006, blown glass, sandblasted, 10 x 15.5 x 15.5”. Collection of Arlene and Harold Schnitzer, Portland, OR.

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


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the Western Montana Fair and Rodeo kicks off at t h e We s t e r n M o n t a n a Fairgrounds today and runs through Sun.,Aug. 10, featuring music, carnies, a demolition derby and lots of deep fryin’. Whitefish’s Alpine Theatre Project begins a two-week run of Pete ‘n’ Keely, a musical trip through time with now bitter former entertainment lovebirds, with Tue.–Sat. shows at 8 PM and 3 PM Sun. matinees, at the O’Shaughnessy Center, 1 Central Ave. $30/$35 premium/$16 students/$12 under 13. Call 862-SHOW or visit Wednesday 6 August

Porch Swing Yoga™, a new crossover regimen that blends the best that India and the American South have to offer, blossoms in the wake of righteous rocker and rabblerouser Ani DiFranco, who plays with her band at the Wilma Theatre on Thu., July 24, at 8 PM. $40/$36 advance. Tickets at Rockin Rudy’s or at


Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

A mystical fog envelops the crowd as the heavens burst open and sliced bologna falls from the sky during Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras continued on page 64

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Montana, you'll know you've had a true Montana experience. Beer and wine served. Private gaming area. $$ - $$$

Pearl Café & Bakery 231 E. Front St. 541-0231 Steaks, seafood, country French specialties. Breads & desserts baked fresh daily. Reservations taken for the warm & inviting dining areas, or come as you are for a light meal on the sidewalk café. Gorgeous wedding cakes, specialty cakes and desserts now available for your special occasions. Monday-Thursday 5-9pm, Friday & Saturday 5-10pm. $$-$$$ Red Bird Restaurant & Wine Bar 111 North Higgins Ave. 549-2906 A hidden culinary treasure in the Historic Florence Hotel. Treat yourself to a sensuous dining experience, service, cuisine and ambiance delivered with creative and elegant detail. Seasonal menus featuring the freshest ingredients. New wine bar open Monday - Saturday, 4:00 - 10:30. Enter through the Florence Building lobby. $$-$$$

Sushi Bar & Japanese Cuisine 549-7979 Corner of Pine & Higgins Located in beautiful Downtown Missoula, serving traditional Japanese cuisine and exquisite sushi. Sushi Hana offers a variety of traditional and local favorites, including nigiri-sushi, maki-sushi rolls and sashimi. In addition, we offer Tempura, Teriyaki and appetizers with a delicious assortment of sauces. Expanded selection of sakes, beer and wine. Open 7 days a week for Lunch and Dinner. $$–$$$ $-$$…$5-$15.00 $-$$…$5-$15.00 Biga Pizza 241 W. Main Street 728-2579 Biga Pizza offers a modern, downtown dining environment combined with traditional brick oven pizza, calzone, salads, sandwiches, specials and desserts. All dough is made using a "biga" (pronounced bee-ga) which is a time-honored Italian method of bread making. Biga Pizza uses local products, the freshest produce as well as artisan meats and cheeses. Lunch and dinner, Mon-Sat. A/C. Outside seating available. $-$$

Come enjoy a Burger & Beer!

Come Enjoy the Beauty of the Blackfoot! Vacation Cabins, Cafe & Store Seven handcrafted log cabins, equipped with gas fireplace, refrigerator, & microwave. Two cabins include a Jacuzzi tub! Homestyle cooking at The Cafe, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, 7 days a week.

Open at 11am

Hwy 212 • Charlo, MT 406-644-3339

22878 Hwy. 200 East, Bonner Call for reservations: 244-2015

the The Bridge Pizza Corner of S. 4th & S. Higgins Ave. 542-0002 Dine-In, Drive-Thru, Delivery... Truly a Missoula Find. Popular with the locals. Voted best Pizza. Everything from hand-tossed, thincrust, stone-deck pizza to wild salmon burritos, freerange chicken, rice & noodle bowls, ribs, pasta, salads, soups & sandwiches, "Pizza by the Slice." Local brews on tap and wine by the glass. Open every day for both lunch & dinner. $-$$

Good Food Store 1600 South 3rd Street West 541-FOOD Our Deli features all natural made-toorder sandwiches, soup & salad bar, olive & antipasto bar, fresh deli salads, hot entrees, rotisserie-roasted free-range Hutterite chickens, fresh juice, smoothies, organic espresso and desserts. Enjoy your meal in our spacious seating area or at an outdoor table. Open every day 7am - 10pm. $--$$ $…$5 and $…$5 & under under

The Celtic Connection & Green Bicycle Tearoom LLC 114 E. Main St. Missoula 721-6725 The Celtic Connection and Green Bicycle Tearoom, presents exclusive jewellery, gifts, clothing and music from Ireland, Scotland and the British Isles. The Green Bicycle Tearoom, serves Barry's Irish Tea, fresh pasties and a High Tea with Scottish scones, berries and cream (Saturdays 2-4pm and reservations only).

Food For Thought 540 Daly Ave 721-6033 Missoula’s “Original” Coffeehouse/Cafe located across from the U of M campus. Serving breakfast and lunch seven days a week. Also serving cold sandwiches, soups, salads, baked goods and an espresso bar til close. Sun thru Thurs 7am - 3pm Fri & Sat 7am - 3pm Sun 8am - 3pm. $-$$

Bernice’s Bakery 190 South 3rd West 728-1358 Where Myrtle Avenue ends at Bernice's, a tiny bakery sits as a veritable landmark to those who enjoy homestyle baked goods, strong coffee, community, and a variety of delicious treats. Join us for lunch if you'd like. Crazy delicious. Crazy cheap. 30 years and still baking. Open Every Day 6AM to 8PM. $ Big Dipper Ice Cream On the corner of 5th and Higgins 543-5722 Big Dipper Ice Cream serves Missoula's favorite home-made ice cream and sorbet. We have cones, shakes,sundaes, specialties and pints and quarts to take home. Open daily from 11AM - 11PM. $


Bucks Club 1805 Regent 543-7436 Missoula’s best Food & Drink Values. 2-for-1 food specials daily. Eat the legend. Burgers for a buck. Over 1,000,000 sold. Great Breakfast served daily. If you go away hungry, don’t blame us. Mon.–Sat. Open 7 AM and Sunday 8 AM. $

Bucks Club

Butterfly Herbs 232 N. Higgins 728-8780 Celebrating 36 years of great coffees and teas. Truly the “essence of Missoula.” Offering fresh coffees, teas (Evening in Missoula), bulk spices and botanicals, fine toiletries & gifts. Our cafe features homemade soups, fresh salads, and coffee ice cream specialties. In the heart of historic downtown, we are Missoula’s first and favorite Espresso Bar. Open 7 Days. $

Cold Stone Creamery Across from Costco on Reserve by TJ Maxx & Ross 549-5595 Cold Stone Creamery, the Ultimate Ice Cream Experience! Our smooth and creamy ice cream is made fresh daily using our secret recipe. Taste our mouthwatering ice cream creations. Enjoy our Healthy Indulgences: Sorbets, Smoothies, & Sinless Sans Fat Ice Cream. Treat yourself to a 10minute vacation at Cold Stone Creamery. $

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


1805 Regent • Missoula • 543-7436 • Open daily 7AM - 2AM “Tr y us and taste the difference”

We specialize in thick hand cut steaks and premium seafood. Award winning chicken bisque soup served with all entrees. Open for Lunch 11-5 Monday through Saturday Dinner served daily at 5pm Join us for our great Sunday Breakfast 9am-2pm Smoke Free gaming and dining area.

Eat the Legend: Check out Bucks Buck Deals Montana's best food values every day Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

All Day 2 for 1 Meal Deals $2 Tuesdays All Drinks $2

EVERY DAY Buck's & The Other Side feature Free Pool, $2.50 Pabst Pounders & Drink Specials Smoke-Free Performance Area!

Music, Shows, Events • 543-3405

2915 Brooks • 721-4133 62

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

See full calendar at

Intimate Dining in our Restaurant Tuesday - Saturday • 5pm Casual Dining in our Wine Bar Monday - Saturday • 4pm Live music on Mondays • 7-10pm

Restaurant & Wine Bar 549-2906 • 111 N. Higgins • Missoula


Fantastic Selections Great Prices Old Fashioned Service




2002 S. Reserve  406.777.0302 formerly in Stevensville


Front Street Pasta & Wraps 247 W. Front Street 728-6655 Can't decide? Front Street Pasta and Wraps has something to satisfy every craving. We have everything from giant wraps to wok tossed dishes. Spicy peanut sauce goes great with just about everything. Vegetarian friendly menu is great for the non-meat eater. And now you can enjoy a cold beer or a glass of wine with your meal. So step off the beaten path of Higgins and ride into Front Street Pasta and Wraps. Just next to the Carousel on West Front Street. Open M-F, 10am-8pm. $

In thebitterroot Bitterroot Bitter Root Brewery 101 Marcus St Hamilton 363-7468 Western MT's Bitter Root Brewery is located in downtown Hamilton just east of Hwy 93 at Main Street. Bitter Root Brewery offers the largest tasting room in MT, 10 handcrafted beers on tap and a full service grill with live music every Thursday & Saturday. Also, non alcoholic beer and a selection of handcrafted sodas are available to complement the fine food from The Brewers Grill. $-$$ The Grubstake Hamilton 363-3068 The Grubstake Restaurant is located 2000 feet above the Bitterroot Valley overlooking Hamilton Montana. We are open from Memorial Day weekend in May, to early September. Please phone for

reservations and directions. Our Classic Menu (Wednesday through Saturday) includes prime rib, steaks, fried chicken, trout, shrimp and other entrees. We serve our "All You Care to Eat" BBQ Menu on Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays. On those nights we have BBQ Country Ribs and Chicken, Bakers, Corn, Rolls and "home made" Rootbeer. We have a full Salad Bar and Buttermilk Pie every night. Billy-Jack will be here to greet you - bring your camera! $$-$$$

River Rising Bakery 337 Main St Hamilton 363-4552 Hamilton's newest bakery, deli, and espresso bar. Serving all butter pastries, delicious and nutritious muffins, cream scones, and delectable desserts. Or choose from our selection of home-made soups, salads, and sandwiches found nowhere else. Open 6:30am-5:30pm Monday-Friday, 8:00am-4:00pm Saturday, 8:00am2:00pm Sunday. Weekday local business lunch delivery available 9:00am-1:00pm. $-$$

Time After Time Bed & Breakfast

Time After Time B & B 197 Pistol Lane Victor 642-3258 Need a quick get away? Why drive for hours when you can head to Victor, and Time After Time B&B. Quaint, cozy and nearby. Reasonable rates. Just 32 miles from Missoula. Come let us pamper you. You'll be glad you did! Excellent Breakfasts, Great Conversation. Fun things to do locally.


In theflathead Flathead Nickel Charlies 1275 Hiway 2 East Kallispell, MT 257-7756 Conveniently located on the scenic route to our country's greatest treasure, Glacier National Park. Nickel Charlies has been serving up scratch made Montanasized portions of food for over 23 years. Affectionately referred to in the Flathead as "the place to eat." On the strip in Kalispell. $ - $$ Jocko’s at the Best Western KwaTaqNuk, Polson 883-3636 Jocko's Restaurant is a full service dining establishment with breakfast, lunch and dinner choices. Open from 7:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Great steaks, seafood and local specialties at a fair price. Beautiful lakeside dining with views of the Mission Mountains behind Flathead Lake. Mission In the Mission Valley Tiny's Tavern Hwy 212 Charlo, MT 644-3339 Open at 11am. Come enjoy a hot meal and a cold beverage. We offer a wide variety of menu items: Hambugers, Shrimp, Finger Steaks, Buffalo Wings, Chicken Dinners, Buffalo Chips, Etc. To go orders available. $ - $$

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Park, this week with music from Joan Zen and Ball ‘N’ Jack. 11 AM–2 PM. Free. Thursday 7 August Dance first and masticate later at Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food from the locals and music from Bozeman’s The Clintons. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free. A free celebration of kids, by kids and for kids—just don’t ask what’s in the hot dogs—washes up on the banks of the Clark Fork River’s Caras Park at 10 AM when the KidsFest Children’s Festival offers games, crafts, live music and entertainment as well as

tons and tons of food and beverage. Call 721-PARK.

through Sunday. Call 866285-0097.

Friday 8 August

Downtown Whitefish celebrates the little purple berry Western Montana loves during the Huckleberry Days Art Festival, which uses the native fruit as inspiration for music, entertainment and an art fair. The three-day annual event, which begins today, also features crafts, a pie-eating contest and a treasure hunt.

Polson hosts Festival Days, a three-day event for the whole family that includes the Cruisin’ by the Bay Car Show today and Sat., Aug. 9, and the Art in the Park show and carnival throughout the weekend. Montana’s classic rock fest amps it at this year’s threeday Rockin’ the Rivers at “The Bridge” amphitheater in Three Forks. Headliners this year include Third Eye Blind, Soul Asylum, Roy Rogers and the Delta Rhythm Kings, Eddie Money and Foghat. Music starts at 2:30 PM and runs

The oldest and biggest gun show in Montana shoots off at the Flying H Convention Center and carries on through the weekend on Mullan Road. The annual Original Missoula Gun and Antique show highlights all shapes and sizes of

weaponry and will have tables full of cowboy and Native American artifacts, civil war antiques and other cool western substance. Call 549-4817. Saturday 9 August Bag a bushel or two when communities around Western Montana host Farmers’ Markets, featuring local produce, flowers, baked goods and crafts—in Missoula at Circle Square and under the Higgins Avenue bridge, in Stevensville at Third and Main streets, in Hamilton at South Third and Bedford streets and in Kalispell at Center Street and Fifth Avenue. 9 AM–noon.

COME PLAY IN THE HIGH COUNTRY • Lodge open Daily for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner • 20 Cabins/Rooms available for rent • Located just 55 miles SW of Missoula on Hwy • Only 12 miles from Lolo Pass and 10 Miles from Jerry Johnson Hotsprings! • Plenty of parking all year round for trailers, campers, snowmobiles and large groups.

208-942-3405 64

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

Vacation Rentals - Lakes, Mountains, Town • Long Term Rentals • Caretaking services Mountain Mall • Whitefish, MT 59937 Tel: (406) 862-5994 Toll Free: 877-523-5994 Lodging Hot Springs Pool Cowboy to Gourmet Cuisine Bar

406.834.3151 • 1.888.GET.N.WET

Ghost Rails Inn B & B & Quilt Retreat Center 702 Railroad Ave. Alberton MT


• Bike the Hiawatha Trail! • Adrenaline Rush the Alberton Gorge! • Boogie with the Bison at The National Bison Range! • Or relax at a retreat with your fabric stash and friends!

Our historic railroad hotel is situated in the heart of whitewater rafting country just 20 minutes west of Missoula, MT and 2 hours east of Spokane, WA on I-90! Take a romantic B & B Thom Garrett weekend or gather friends & Grace Doyle, for a fun retreat! new owners! Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


• 2 Blocks from the U of M • Non-Smoking Rooms • Indoor Pool • Jacuzzi • Sun Deck • Exercise Room 1009 E. Broadway • Located at the • Laundry Facilities Van Buren Exit 105 off I-90 • High Speed Internet and much more... 543-7251 • 1-800-952-2400

Missoula’s Highest Rated RV Park 406-543-9400 •Great Dish Reception •Wi-Fi Internet Connection •50-Amp Service •Heated Pool •Cable on Selected Sites •Leashed Pets Welcome

•Laundromat •Best-in-the-West Playground •Camping Cabins •Handicap Accessible •10-Rated Bath House

Reservations 800-318-YOGI I-90 (Exit 96) • N. 1/4 Mile on 93 66

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

Sunday 10 August Get to Caras Park early, as the place is bound to fill up when the Missoula Symphony Orchestra presents their annual Symphony in the Park at 7 PM. Free. Wednesday 13 August See the same carnival rides that were in Missoula last weekend in a different setting when the Northwest Montana Fair and Rodeo comes to Kalispell’s Flathead County Fairground today through Sun., Aug. 17, bringing 4H and FFA exhibits as well as rodeo, horse racing, country and rock music. The freaks come out at night, which is an excellent reason to attend Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras Park, this week with music from the Watercarvers Guild and Bob Wire. 11 AM–2 PM. Free. The Wilma Theatre hosts guitar god and blues maestro Joe Bonamassa at 8:30 PM. $20/$17 advance/$32 Golden Circle seating. Tickets at Rockin Rudy’s. Thursday 14 August Dance first and freak out later at Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food from the locals and live music from The Mighty Flick. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free. Cover the basics of the art when the Canoe Rack presents an Introduction to Recreational Kayaking class at 6 PM at their store on the Clark Fork River.A boat and gear to use are included in the $45 fee, so take advantage of this opportunity to sample the sport once you call 251-0040.

If the dog days of August have you down, let birds— specifically, Osprey, Raptors and Owls—bump you out of the funk. Cheer on our own Missoula Osprey when they start a six-game homestand against the Ogden Raptors and Orem Owlz beginning tonight. All games at 7:05, except Sun. at 5 PM. Call 543-3300. A gargantuan slew of bands in three days ought to rock your world when Wäntage USA brings on Total Fest VII, taking place through the weekend at the Badlander in Missoula. Check for updates.


Communities around Western Montana host Farmers’ Markets, featuring local produce, flowers, baked goods and crafts—in Missoula at Circle Square and under the Higgins Avenue bridge, in Stevensville at Third and Main streets, in Hamilton at South Third and Bedford streets and in Kalispell at Center Street and Fifth Avenue. 9 AM–noon.




7:05pm 18 BILLINGS




Saturday 16 August Boldly saunter into the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness along the Sweeney Ridge trail when the Bitterroot National Forest sponsors a difficult 10-mile round trip hike to Peterson Lake. Meet at 8:30 AM at the Conoco in Florence to carpool to the trailhead. RSVP 777-3523 by Thu., Aug. 14.





JUNE 7:05pm




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Opsrey Baseball So Much Fun You'll Drop Your Fish Pioneer League Affiliate of the Arizona Diamondbacks

If that Peterson Lake hike is a bit more than you’re bargaining for—or you just wanted to pick up some fresh and local produce

Call 406-543-3300 for ticket information Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Large Selection of Travel Games & Toys for all Young Explorers Locally owned and operated with roots in Missoula

543-0101 Southgate Mall

first—take the Bitterroot National Forest’s lead and join in on the easier Bear Creek Waterfall Hike, which begins with a carpooling meet-up at 10 AM at the Westview Family Center in Hamilton. You can also choose to meet at 10:45 at the Bear Creek Trailhead. Call 375-9110. If you want to see what a jail break at the animal pound might look like, trot on down to Caras Park at 11 AM, where Pet Fest celebrates all that those furry, scaled and/or feathered friends add to our lives. Free, and please, consider bringing a pooper scooper.

You want a great newspaper. . .

and you want it for FREE!

Keeping Missoula's Histor y A l i v e ! The Museum was established in 1975, to collect, preserve and interpret the history of Missoula, Fort Missoula, the history of forest management, and the wood products’ industry in western Montana.

When it rains, it pours, and the Bitterroot National Forest goes three for three today as they host t h i s eve n i n g ’s M o n t h ly Moonwalk, “Spirit Moon,” at 8 PM at Fort Owen State Park just west of Stevensville. Author and historian Ellen Baumler recounts the many mysteries and paranormal goingson that have haunt this region. Do you have what it takes to keep from freaking out? Call 375-2606. Wednesday 20 August

Located on 32 acres at the core of historic Fort Missoula (1877-1947) the Museum has over 22,000 objects & 13 historic structures



Unintended Consequences The 1918 Flu and World War 1

Historical Museum at Fort Missoula Building 322 – Fort Missoula Call 406-728-3476 for special needs or more info Accredited by the american Association of Museums


Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

Don’t quit now—before you know it, the snow will be flying, so get your hunger and your dancing legs over to Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras Park, this week with music from Ende Brothers and Odyssey. 11 AM–2 PM. Free. Thursday 21 August It’s Your Night at Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food from the locals and a sweet karaoke competition starring all your friends and enemies from

the hub of five valleys. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free. No performance anxiety here: The Missoula Art Museum celebrates three years of monthly artstravaganzas at 5:30 PM during Artini: Birthday, which features a special birthday martini, live performance with Teranga Arts Senegalese Dance and Drum and a gallery talk with exhibiting artist Mary Ann Bonjorni at 7 PM. Free. Saturday 23 August Whatever your level of competitiveness and athleticism, there’s a course for your during the fourth annual Adventure BioThon, which begins at 8 AM at the Lee Metcalf National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center. Both short and long courses will challenge both your physical prowess and your knowledge of the natural world, so put together a team and fill out a registration form by Fri., Aug 8, to guarantee tshirts for your posse. Pick up forms at the refuge or request one by e-mailing For more info, call 777-1048 or 777-5552 ext. 203. Why continue to water your garden when you can get all you need at Western M o n t a n a ’s F a r m e r s ’ Markets? They feature local produce, flowers, baked goods and crafts—in Missoula at Circle Square, on Pine Street and under the Higgins Avenue bridge, in Stevensville at Third and Main streets, in Hamilton at South Third and Bedford streets and in Kalispell at Center Street and Fifth Avenue. 9 AM–noon. continued on page 73

Cool your Britches!

Hwy 200E at the 11 mile marker Tube Shuttle 12-5pm on the hour (must check-in 15 min. prior to shuttle departure)

Open 7 days a week Starting July 1st


Tube rental w/shuttle


Ride In Style with a Clear Conscience (All our vehicles get 25 miles per PB & J!)


Biking is Good for You and the Planet

t en R ! We ikes B

Fight Global Warming Keep Our Air Clean Improve Your Health & Happiness Laugh As You Ride By The Gas Station

Test Ride Bikes by

Shop Accessories by Trek, Yakima, Pearl Izumi, CamelBak & Giro

Visit your friends at OPEN ROAD Bicycles & Nordic 517 S. Orange St. • 406.549.2453 • M-F 9-6 Sat 10-5 Sun 11-3 Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


The Spirit of Adventure Clothing:

• Patagonia • Isis • Cloudveil • Marmot • Sierra Designs • Prana


• Black Diamond • Osprey • Petzl • Western Mountaineering


• Dagger • Pyranha • Kokatat • NRS • Perception • Vanguard • Raft & Kayak Rentals

129 W Front Missoula 721-1670 Open 7 days a week

•Climbing •Backpacking •Kayaking •Canoeing •Rafting •Maps & Books •Rentals

GATES OF THE MOUNTAINS BOAT TOURS A VACATION JUST T WO HOURS AWAY "we entered much the most remarkable clifts that we have yet seen...from the singular appearance of this place I called it 'the Gates of the Rocky Mountains' " Meriwether Lewis ( July 19, 1805). The name stuck and for centuries travelers have ventured down this stretch of the Missouri to marvel at its natural wonders. Starting with Native Americans leaving behind rock art that can still be seen from the tour boat. The boat stops at Meriwether Picnic area where you can picnic, hike to Mann Gulch--where a raging forest fire claimed the lives of 13 young men--or into the wilderness. You can fish or just soak up the natural beauty.

2008 Cruise Schedules J U N E Weekdays 11:00 AM, 2:00 PM Saturdays, Sundays & Holidays 10:00 AM, 12 Noon, 2:00 PM & 4:00 PM J U L Y & A U G U S T Weekdays 11:00 AM, 1:00 PM & 3:00 PM Weekends every hour between 1:00 & 4:00

S E P T E M B E R (After Labor Day we will be closed on Mondays & Tuesdays) Weekdays 11:00 AM & 2:00 PM Saturdays, Sundays & Holidays 11:00 AM, 1:00 PM & 3:00 PM D I N N E R C R U I S E Every Friday night from July 11th through August 15th 6:00 PM cruise followed by dinner at our pavilion. Reservations only. Limited seating.

CRUISE FARES Adults $11.00 Seniors (60 & over) $10.00 Children (4-17) $7.00 Dinner Cruise $35.00

Call 406-458-5241 or check out our website at www.gatesofthe To get here, take Interstate 15 18 miles north of Helena. Take Exit 209 (Gates of the Mountains) a n d p r o c e e d d o w n t o t h e r i v e r . H e l e n a i s 21 / 2 h o u r s f r o m M i s s o u l a . 70

Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

Yo u D e s e r v e A G o o d P a d d l i n g ! W H I T E WAT E R R A F T I N G

A l b e r to n G o r g e Lo c h s a • S a l m o n R i ve r & M o r e

Fu l l & H a l f D a y Tr i p s 9 1 2 E a s t B r o a d wa y (4 0 6) 7 2 8 -7 6 0 9 • 1- 8 0 0 -3 6 6 - 6 2 4 6 w w w. r a f t i n g - a d v e n t u r e s . c o m

Come In and Check Out a Nice Selection of New Bikes and Equipment for the Road, Commuting, or Backcountry. We'll Help You Find the Perfect Ride.

Upgrade Components, Get Great Clothing, Find Perfect Accessories Get Premium Service, Find Ride Info, or Go for a Test Ride

708 S Higgins Ave • 721-6525 • M-F 9:30-6 • Sat 10-5 • Sun 11-4 Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


 Visit with our friendly, seasoned staff  Enjoy our positive, neighborhood vibe  Get reliable repairs  Down-home tune ups tailored to your bike

1101 Toole Ave 721-5357 Open 10ish to 6 or so. Closed Sunday. We Make Your Ride All Better


Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

It’s Missoula’s signature event, people—the two-day River City Roots Festival promotes love for all things Garden City: From fun runs to juried art shows to food and drink amid a sea of free music in the streets, you can get the lowdown on this dog days delight at (See Spotlight in this issue.) Tuesday 26 August Whitefish’s Alpine Theatre Project begins a two-week run of The Other Side of the Island, Olympia Dukakis’ starstudded interpretation of The Tempest, with Tue.–Sat. shows at 8 PM and 3 PM Sun. matinees, at the Whitefish Performing Arts Center, 600 E. Second St. $30/$35 premium/$16 students/$12 under 13. Call 862-SHOW or visit Wednesday 27 August They say drinking and gunslingin’ don’t mix, but I leave it to you to be the judge at Out to Lunch in Missoula’s Caras Park, this week with music from ShoDown and Critical Martini. 11 AM–2 PM. Free. Thursday 28 August Dance first and get funked up later at Downtown ToNight in Missoula’s Caras Park, featuring food from the locals and live funk from 2008 PBR Band of the Year Reverend Slanky. 5:30–8:30 PM. Free. Cue the rally monkey and keep the fat lady at bay: The Missoula Osprey begin their final four-game homestand of the season against Helena and Billings beginning tonight. All games at 7:05, except Sun. at 5 PM. Call 543-3300. Friday 29 August Close out your fair-going season with a trip to the Ravalli County Fair, which delivers Ferris wheels and

funnel cakes—a potentially lethal combination that you should be able to handle without difficulty after three months of training.You know the drill at this point, or should by the Fair’s close on Mon., Sept. 1. Eat your way through the 25 food booths, spend hours firing at rubber ducks while attempting to win that framed Backstreet Boys poster or just check out the commercial exhibits from noon to midnight. Saturday 30 August Communities around Western Montana host Farmers’ Markets, featuring local produce, flowers, baked goods and crafts—in Missoula at Circle Square, on Pine Street and under the Higgins Avenue bridge, in Stevensville at Third and Main streets, in Hamilton at South Third and Bedford streets and in Kalispell at Center Street and Fifth Avenue. 9 AM–noon. Details remain clouded in mystery at press time, but mark your calendar for a special event from the Bike/Walk Alliance for Missoula at 11 AM in Caras Park. Call me crazy, but my guess is it’ll have to do with advocating equal rights and access for nonmotorized travelers. We have made an honest effort to scoop up every car show and carnival, fair and festival that could have qualified for this guide of what’s happening in western Montana. If we left you out, drop a line to and let us know what you’ve got going on and when.We’ll put you in the regular paper and file you away for next year. Until then, enjoy the summer. Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008


Advertising Index Airport Shuttler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Anne Jablonski, Windermere . . . . . . . 34 Arlee Village. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Aspen Sound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Authentic Creations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Axis Physical Therapy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Backcountry Racks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Bathing Beauties Beads. . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Bernice’s Bakery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50,61 Best Western Rocky Mountain Lodge . 39 Betty’s Divine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Beverly Kiker, Prudential Missoula . . . 34 Big Dipper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61,62 Big Sky Ski Resort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Biga Pizza. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60, 62 Bike Doctor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Bitter Root Brewing . . . . . . . . . . . 21, 63 Bitterroot Valley Chamber of Commerce . . . . . . . . . 22 Blackfoot River Rentals . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Bob Ward & Sons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Brady’s Sportsman’s Surplus. . . . . . . . 47 Bridge Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Buck’s Club & The Other Side . . . 61, 62 Butterfly Herbs . . . . . . . . . . . . 17, 61, 63 Carousel For Missoula. . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Celtic Connection . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18, 61 Charlotte's Boutique . . . . . . . . . . . 17, 23 Childrens Museum Missoula. . . . . . . . 18 China Woods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Claws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Cold Stone Creamery . . . . . . . . . . 14, 61 Community Medical Center . . . . . . . . 46

Confederated Salish & Kootenai Tribes. . 30 Crystal Limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Curley's Broiler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60, 62 Dark Room . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Dollar Rent A Car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Ear Candy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Edge of the World . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Elida’s Day Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Faith Frazier, Prudential Missoula . . . . 34 Famous Dave’s BBQ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Feng Shui Center. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Five Star Rentals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Food For Thought . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59, 61 Front Street Pasta & Wraps . . . . . . . . . 63 Garden of Beadin' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Garden Wall Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Garnet Ghost Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Gates of the Mountains Boat Tours. . . 70 Ghost Rails Inn B&B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Glacier Sea Kayaking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Glacier Symphony & Chorale . . . . . . . 40 Good Food Store. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2, 61 Gray Wolf Peak Casino. . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Green Taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Grubstake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22, 63 Historic Tamarack Lodge & Cabins . . . 43 Historical Museum At Fort Missoula . . 68 Homestead Helicopters, Inc.. . . . . . . . 72 Jackson Hot Springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Jeannette Rankin Fair Trade Store . . . 20 Jellystone Park Camp-Resorts . . . . . . . 66 Jem Shoppe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Jocko's at KwaTaqNuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

Kootenai River Bluegrass Festival . . . . 50 KwaTaqNuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Learning Tree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Les Schwab Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Lewis & Clark Trail Adventures . . . . . . 71 Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Lochsa Lodge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Lodge At Whitefish Lake . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Lookout Pass/Route of the Hiawatha . 47 Majestic Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 McNamara's Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Meadowsweet Herbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Mindy Palmer, Lambros ERA . . . . . . . . . 4 Missoula Art Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Missoula Bicycle Works . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Missoula Downtown Association . . . . . 4 Missoula KOA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Missoula Osprey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Montana Auto Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Montana Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3, 60 Montana Island Lodge. . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Montana River Guides. . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Montana State Fair/ Expo Park . . . . . . 26 Montana Vortex House of Mystery . . . 42 Mountain Waters Recreation . . . . . . . . 58 Museum Of Mountain Flying . . . . . . . 55 Nickel Charlies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60, 63 Nouveau Riche University . . . . . . . . . . 34 Open Road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Our Lady of the Rockies Bus Tours. . . 26 Pat McCormick, Properties 2000. . . . . 35 Pearl Café & Bakery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Pipestone Mountaineering . . . . . . . . . 70


Qwivals Family Fun Center . . . . . . . . . 23 Random Task Engineer . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Red Bird. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60, 63 River Rising Bakery . . . . . . . . . . . . 22, 63 Rock Creek Lodge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Rockin' The Rivers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Rocks & Things . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation. . . . . 40 Sam’s Spade. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Sappari. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Scooterville Montana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Sierra Club. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Silver Mountain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Smokejumper Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Sotto Voce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Stillwater Mountain Lodge . . . . . . . . . 39 Studio 12 Art . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Stumptown Art Studio. . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Sushi Hana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20, 60 Swan Mountain Outfitters. . . . . . . 27, 43 The Trail Head. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Three Dog Down. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Thunderbird Motel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Time After Time B&B . . . . . . . . . . 22, 63 Tiny's Tavern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61, 63 Waterside Condominiums . . . . . . . . . . 76 Western Montana Clinic . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Western Montana Fair . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Whispering Pines Guest Cabin . . . . . . 26 Whitefish Pottery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Whooping Crones Gallery. . . . . . . . . . 55 Williams Real Estate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Zoë. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

here are many things to love about Montana.

Visit One of the Largest Training Centers for Wildland Fire Management in the US Tour Displays of Wildland Fire Equipment and Line Management See Chute Making and Training Rooms

Add one more to your list... See the Plane Hangar and Gear

FREE TOURS 7 DAYS A WEEK 5 Tours Daily at 10 AM, 11 AM, 2 PM, 3 PM, 4 PM 5765 WEST BROADWAY


Phone 406-329-4934 Website


Missoula Independent EXPLORER, 2008

40 Board Certified Physicians 19 Different Specialties PRIMARY & SPECIALTY CARE




406.721.5600 • 800.525.5688 • WESTERNMONTANACLINIC.COM

Join us for these Local Sierra Club Outings Free and open to the public! Hike Lee Creek to Packer Meadow at Lolo Pass, during the beautiful spring wildflower blooms; June 14th Help improve Elk habitat and learn about our wildland-urban interface fuels reduction demonstration project; June 28th Great Burn backpack amongst the granite ridges and high meadows of this proposed wilderness, one of our most beautiful and inspiring local habitats; July 25th - 27th

Backpack to Pine Creek Lake in the Absoroka Wilderness. A rugged, wild country with lakes, waterfalls and old growth forests; July 26th - 27th Service outing, backpack into the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness to Upper McCalla Lake. Help document trail conditions and unauthorized trails; August dates TBA Learn about the natural values of Lolo Peak and Carlton Ridge and the efforts to protect them from a mega-ski resort on this overnight backpack to Carlton Lake and Lolo Peak; August 9th -10th Missouri River canoe and camp in the "Badlands" of the Wild and Scenic segment of our famous river; September 4th - 7th

The Sierra Club's Montana Chapter is helping to protect the landscape and natural resources of Montana for future generations.

For more information visit:

Contact: Austin McKee



An Adventurer's guide to summer in western Montana.

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