Page 1

MIšJA PEč left side

No. of routes: 41 Difficulty: 4c- 9a Height: 12 - 23 m The lower part consists of easier routes, with climbing on vertical slabs, good for beginners or to warm up. Higher up the routes become more technical and demanding. The upper part is an overhanging wall, where routes cross many tufas and generally good holds. Here it is possible to climb even while it is raining, although after long periods of rain, many routes here become wet and damp, even if the weather is sunny again. The left part ends in legendary “Teddy’s cave”, where some of slovenian (and global) climbing history was written. 10 8 6 4 2 0 No.

4a - 5c 5

6a - 6a+ 6b - 6b+ 6c - 6c+ 3

4

3

7a - 7a+ 7b - 7b+ 7c - 7c+ 8a - 8a+ 8b - 8b+ 3

8

7

3

2

8c - 9b 3

Mañana, 7c


1. Slinavka

5a

14 m

4

2. Parkljevka

5b

14 m

4

3. Brbončica

6a+

14 m

5

4. Harry Potter

6a+

16 m

5

5. Bradavičarka

6b

17 m

5

6. Mojčina

5a

17 m

4

7. Ksenjina

5a

17 m

5

8. Naritko Mitko

5b

17 m

5

9. Lukova

6c

18 m

7

10. Jožetova

6a+

20 m

6

Vertical route with a couple of technical / crimpy moves.

11. Dragotova

6b

20 m

6

12. Sorinina

6c

20 m

6

6b+

15 m

7

Technical slab with easy finish. Technical slab with easy finish.

LEFT PART 1/5

Bouldery start, then easier upper part. Bouldery start, then easier upper part. Delicate and technical middle part. Few crimpers at start, then easy. Few crimpers at start, then easy. Easy with a couple of power, reachy moves.

Mišja peč

Crux over the roof and finish on crimpers. Nice juggy route for good balance and footwork.

Vertical route with a couple of technical / crimpy moves.

13. Pepel

Fingery route with reachy finish.

18


6b

15 m

5

Technical on edges and reachy on big holds, with one good rest.

15. Jumbo

7a

18 m

8

16. Meteorit

7c

17 m

7

17. Poontang

7b+

16 m

7

Bouldery and technical, rarely repeated. Crux on the crimpers in the upper part.

Sanjski par, 9a (M. Sova)

LEFT PART 2/5

14. Varianta pepela

MiĹĄja peÄ?

More power start and same finish as Pepel.

19


18. Sternschnuppe

7b

16 m

6

19. Mičkena

6c+

15 m

7

Continue past anchor of Mičkena and finish in Johanova.

20. Frenkova

7a

24 m

10

21. Johanova

7c

23 m

9

Good rests and power boulders.

22. Nido

7b

17 m

7

23. Kinder direkt

7b

18 m

8

24. Kindergarten

7a+

18 m

7

25. Matamoros

7c

18 m

8

26. Tekila

8a

18 m

7

27. Durango

7b+

18 m

9

Easy for the grade, a bit polished. Go left at the overhang, then traverse.

28. Tortuga A

7b

12 m

7

29. Tortuga B

7c

12 m

7

A couple of power moves.

LEFT PART 3/5

Crux in the middle and hard to finish.

Nice edges in the middle and a crimpy crux near the top.

Left variant of Kinder requires a bit more finger strength. Endurance on good tufas. Wet after long rain. Endurance with boulders over roofs. Wet after long rain.

Mišja peč

Crimpy, fingery start, then endurance to the top.

20

Endurance on good holds, no hand rest half way up.

Right variant, hard boulder.


21

Mišja peč

LEFT PART 4/5


“Tedijeva luknja”

Named after Tadej Slabe, Slovenian legend, author of many hard routes in Mišja peč, including Sanjski par and Za staro kolo..., which, when it was freed in 1992, was considered one of the hardest routes in the world.

30. Corto

8a

19 m

9

31. White power

8a+

22 m

11

32. Lazuret

8b

21 m

12

33. Mr. Bighand

8b+

28 m

14

34. Gospodar prstanov

7c+

17 m

7

Two boulders with good rest in between. Finish in Corto.

35. Mañana

7c

14 m

5

Same start as Manana, go to the big hole and finish in its own anchor.

36. Hobit

7c

17 m

6

37. Talk is cheap!

8c

15 m

8

38. Za staro kolo in majhnega psa

8c+

12 m

9

39. Sanjski par (extension)

9a

15 m

10

Classic! Endurance with a short crux in the middle. Getting polished. Start in Corto, finish in Hobit. Spin-off route for locals. Soft.

LEFT PART 5/5

Start in Corto, finish in Talk is cheap. Spin-off route for locals. Start in Corto, finish in Sanjski par. Endurance testpiece! Easier, although crimpier start than Corto, with same finish.

Lenghty boulder soon after tufas.

Mišja peč

Technical roof on edges. Requires good footwork and strong fingers. A series of boulders on a roof. Legendary slovenian route.

*

For long time the first part of the route was considered a separate route. It finished on 6th bolt and was graded as a hard 8c. But since the whole project was freed and the first finish is not really logical, it now seems a bit redundant.

40. Peskovnik

Fingery boulder in the lower part. Somewhat easy to onsight.

7b+

9m

4

41. Sistolitični vrt

7b+

4m

2

A couple of moves over the roof.

22


23

Mišja peč


MIšJA PEč

No. of routes: 99 Difficulty: 6a - 9a Height: 10 - 40 m The central part starts and finishes with a few easier routes. On the left they soon become overhanging endurance routes. This part is also called the Beach, as it is the warmest part if the weather is sunny (which is especially welcome in the winter). After the Beach is the most versatile part of the crag with routes of various styles, lengths and grades. The true long “mišja” routes start on so-called Pedestal. Most routes here consist of easy lower and hard upper part. The lower parts are ideal warm-ups, very popular and are quickly getting polished. More to the right is the main part with the hardest routes, many of which also have two anchors. The climbing style here is endurance in combination with cruxes and good rests (many of them attractive no-hand-rests). Most of the lower parts are climbable even in heavy rain, but tend to get soaked after long periods of rain. The central part finishes in some nice warm ups. Many of the classic routes are already extremely polished.

central part

24 20 16 12 8 4 0 No.

4a - 5c 0

6a - 6a+ 6b - 6b+ 6c - 6c+ 1

4

4

7a - 7a+ 7b - 7b+ 7c - 7c+ 8a - 8a+ 8b - 8b+ 10

15

16

23

18

8c - 9b 8

Karizma, 8b+ (M. Sova)


1. Pičkin dim (A.K.A. P. D.) Bouldery start with nice technical finish.

6b+

13 m

7

2. Tazio

6c

13 m

6

3. Kurčji rock

6c+

13 m

6

4. Ribalton

7a+

17 m

7

8a

19 m

8

6. Iglu

8a

20 m

8

7. Flash dance

7c

19 m

7

8. Angie wall

7c

22 m

10

9. Rock ‘n’ roll

Overhang with good holds, After good rest go right. A few long moves.

7c+

22 m

10

10. Galaktika

8a+

23 m

9

A series of boulders.

11. Strta srca

8a+

9m

4

12. Twin Peaks

7c+

8m

4

13. Stinger

7c

25 m

10

Vertical wall for precise climbing on edges.

Mišja peč

CENTRAL PART 1/8

Vertical wall for precise climbing on edges. Very crimpy start then athletic endurance over two roofs.

5. Čao Bejbe (A.K.A. Čao pičke) One dynamic boulder in the middle, then easier finish. Reachy start to technical power crux in the middle, then easy. Hard on the beginning, then endurance with good rests. Overhang with good holds, splits to the left after a good rest.

Long boulder on beginning, then nicer endurance.

A couple of boulders and a couple of good holds. Soft. Power moves from the ledge in the middle, then vertical and technical.

26


8b

23 m

10

Technical climbing on a taverse under the small roof and easy finish.

15. Skodelica kave

7b

23 m

9

Same start as Danger zone, then some more endurance climbing.

16. Nina

7b

20 m

10

17. Danger zone

7a

17 m

9

Powerful overhanging start, then perseverance to the top.

18. Nikita

7b+

19 m

9

Nice route with a little bit of everything.

19. Minulet

7b+

19 m

9

20. Ponarejeni minulet

6c+

19 m

9

21. Ponarejena želva

7b

19 m

9

22. Oro puro

Start on an easy boulder and finish on delicate and technical vertical wall.

7c

19 m

8

23. Teta Liza

7a

19 m

8

7b+

30 m

14

25. 9a

6c

19 m

7

26. 9a (2. del)

7c

30 m

12

A couple of different cruxes with good rests in between.

Warm-up combo that avoids both crux parts. Technical start with a reachy crimpy crux near the top.

Quite polished vertical wall with crimpers.

24. Moving shadow

Extension of Teta Liza with boulder on the beginning of upper part. Reachy crux on good holds and bad footholds. Getting very polished. Extension of 9a with crux after first anchor, followed by nice climbing.

CENTRAL PART 2/8

14. No fly zone

Mišja peč

Very crimpy middle part. Rarely repeated.

27


Short and spicy with some complex moves.

27. Uncle Ben

7b

18 m

6

28. Eagles

8b

18 m

6

29. CaffÈ espresso

8a+

28 m

12

30. Dolga kava

7c

27 m

11

31. Nočna kronika

7c+

22 m

8

Another boulder over the roof.

32. Nočna kronika (2. del)

8b

30 m

12

Continuous route with a couple of cruxes. Reachy moves in the middle.

33. Urbanova

8a

30 m

14

34. Uživancija

8a

30 m

12

35. Veseli tobogan (A.K.A. Kiki-riki)

8a+

10 m

3

36. Popolni mrk

8c

30 m

14

37. Sreča vrtnice

7a+

19 m

9

38. Sreča vrtnice (2. del)

8b

32 m

15

Just a couple of crimpy moves after the hole.

CENTRAL PART 3/8

Quite hard boulder in vertical lower part, then endurance. Endurance piece that bypasses the crux of Caffe espresso. A bit technical, then endurance with a boulder near the top.

Same start as Urbanova, followed by a series of rests and cruxes.

Mišja peč

Short and bouldery. For a challenge can be climbed only inside of tufas.

28

Hard part on crimpers in the middle of route, then endurance. Nice endurance climb on jugs. Long moves are better. Reachy part over the roof, after good rest.


7a

16 m

7

Difficulties soon after first anchor, then some more in the roof.

40. Gorenjski šnops (2. del)

8b

32 m

15

Two cruxes, a couple of great rests and a pumped up finish.

41. Albanski konjak

7a

17 m

6

42. Albanski konjak (2. del)

8a

31 m

12

Mostly endurance on jugs, with one power move. Often wet.

43. Rodeo

7a

18 m

8

44. Corrida

8c

31 m

15

45. Histerija

8c+

32 m

15

46. Ptičja perspektiva

7b

19 m

7

47. Ptičja perspektiva (2. del)

Athletic climbing in the middle, one good rest and a strong finish.

8a+

32 m

13

48. Ptičja vizija

7c+

32 m

13

49. Krvave dimlje

7b+

19 m

7

A crux just after first anchor, a couple good rests and a strong finish.

Crimpy boulder soon after first anchor, then endurance to the top. Quite continuous on small edges, gets harder as you reach the top. Mostly endurance climbing with a couple of power moves.

Endurance, some boulders and many good rests. A couple of moves on the beginning of overhang.

CENTRAL PART 4/8

39. Gorenjski šnops

Mišja peč

Same start as Albanski konjak, then go to the left to some reachy moves.

29


Continuous climb, with some technical difficulties and crimps to finish.

50. Pikova dama

8b

32 m

12

51. Vizija

8c

30 m

12

52. Karizma

8b+

35 m

14

53. Triad

8a

23 m

10

54. Človek ne jezi se

8c

18 m

7

Some more endurance with crimpy last couple of meters.

55. Človek ne jezi se (2. del)

8c+

41 m

15

56. Ekstaza

8c+

40 m

17

57. Xaxid hostel

9a

40 m

17

58. J.S.F.K.

7c+

16 m

7

59. J.S.F.K. (2. del)

8b

41 m

17

Start in J.S.F.K. and finish straight up like Človek ne jezi se (2. del).

60. Sanje za dušo

8b+

40 m

15

61. Figa

7b+

16 m

7

62. Figaro

8a+

40 m

15

Very crimpy crux in the lower part, then easier to the top.

CENTRAL PART 5/8

A crimpy crux in the lower part, then easier to the top. Continuous and technical until a crux near the finish. Intensive power route on small holds and no rests.

Človek ne jezi se with another boulder in the middle and in the final roof. An 8B boulder in the lower part that joins with Ekstaza to the top.

Mišja peč

Nice endurance with reachy boulder in the middle. Finish to the far left with the crux near the end.

Tufa-land with inventive no-hand-rests and two nice cruxes. Nice continuous climb after the fig tree, until the crux in the roof.

30


8a+

18 m

9

64. Bula

7b+

19 m

9

65. Giljotina

8a

19 m

9

Vertical wall that soon gets a bit nasty.

66. Giljotina (2. del)

8a+

28 m

13

67. Bastilla

8b+

40 m

18

68. Highlander

8a+

19 m

8

69. Samsara

8a

19 m

9

70. Izgubljeni sin

8a+

40 m

18

71. Mrtvaški ples

8b

19 m

9

72. Marioneta

8b+

19 m

8

73. Lahko noč, Irena

8b

23 m

8

74. Mozaik

8a

23 m

10

8b+

42 m

18

Warm-up endurance combo for the locals. Pumpy start leads to an awkward boulder in the middle.

Add a few boulders over the roofs to the lower part. Starts with a very powerful boulder and then gets only a little easier. Two nice boulders with good rest in between.Very popular and polished. Attactive continuation, with a no-hand-rest in the roof and a few cruxes. Bouldery route with artificial pockets. Polished. Series of boulders with long moves on artificial holds. For strong climbers. A crux in the overhang and later a technical-crimpy one. Another all-in-one route. A bit reachy moves at times.

75. Millenium

Continuous troubles in the roof.

CENTRAL PART 6/8

63. Blood sugar sex magik

Mišja peč

Athletic climbing leading up to a hard boulder in the last meters.

31


76. Hugo

7c

22 m

10

77. Popaj

8a+

30 m

14

Crimpy boulder on the right, soon after the first anchor, then endurance.

78. Lucky Luke

8b

32 m

15

79. Chiquita

8a

23 m

11

First a bit easier, then pumpy finish on the edges.

80. Chiquita (2. del)

8b+

32 m

16

81. Preobrazba

7c+

22 m

12

Local variation that uses nice lower part of Klobasa without its finish.

82. Preobražena klobasa

7c

23 m

9

83. Klobasa

8b

22 m

8

84. Kaj ti je deklica?

8b+

32 m

14

85. Oktoberfest

8a

29 m

13

86. Pasja radost

7b+

16 m

6

87. Krvavica

7a

16 m

8

88. Krvavica (2. del)

7a+

29 m

13

A lenghty fingery crux in the middle, then a good rest.

CENTRAL PART 7/8

Hard power boulder soon after the first anchor, with endurance to finish.

Pumpy and athletic route with the crux near the finish.

Athletic start, technical edges in the middle and bouldery finish.

A couple of moves on the top. Rarely repeated.

Mišja peč

Long, continuous, with cruxes at the beginning in the middle and the end. Technical, but can be compensated with sheer power. Crux in the middle. A couple of cruxy, reachy parts. Finishes in Krvavica. Polished and sometimes awkward to move.You need some power. Nice and continuous to the top. Attractive climbing for this grade.

32


25 m

11

90. Godla (2. del)

7c+

35 m

15

Short warm-up for either good footwork or strong arms.

91. Kamnolom

6a

15 m

6

92. Tretje tisočletje

6b

16 m

6

93. Tretje tisočletje (2. del)

8a

30 m

14

Boulder at the beginning and finish with endurance. Extremely polished.

94. Pečenica

6b+

16 m

6

95. Pečenica (2. del)

6b+

26 m

10

96. Pleskavica

7a

16 m

7

97. Lisičji raz

7b

25 m

13

98. Hugolina

7b+

24 m

11

7c

23 m

10

Essentially just one two-move fingery boulder.

Athletic crack, a bit bouldery.

Technical until one-finger pocket and another crux over the roof.

A bit reachy and technical. Not climbed as much as the lower part. Technical boulder on small holds with finish in Pečenica. Crimpy and technical route that starts in Hugolina. Nice juggy start with short power boulder half way up.

99. Pinot

Nice technical crimpy climbing with the crux around the roof.

CENTRAL PART 8/8

7b

Mišja peč

89. Godla

Physical in the beginning, followed by one long move.

33


MIšJA PEč right side No. of routes: 51 Difficulty: 4a - 9a Height: 9 - 23 m After a couple of routes fill the gaps on the left, soon begins the famous Freezer, which along with some tricky boulder problems has a nice selection of the hardest power endurance routes in the area. Here you can climb even in the rain and it doesn’t get as soaked after long rainy periods. After the Freezer the wall becomes vertical to slabby and the grades instantly become much lower, providing some climbing for beginners or for warm-ups. But since this part gets less sunshine, especially in the main season, it is less popular. Routes can even be a bit dusty and are definitely not polished. Beware of the people who mistake this part for a toilet, which happens, so watch your step here. On the positive note, you can climb here when it gets too hot in the central part. 10 8 6 4 2 0 No.

4a - 5c 6

6a - 6a+ 6b - 6b+ 6c - 6c+ 4

5

9

7a - 7a+ 7b - 7b+ 7c - 7c+ 8a - 8a+ 8b - 8b+ 7

6

3

4

4

8c - 9b 3

Sonce v očeh, 8a+


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