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9 Perfect Projects for Your Summer Getaway I

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Sweet Summer Lace 3 Patterns to Take

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SUMMER 2018

Your Breath Away Hot Projects in Cool Fibers

Raffia, Abaca, Hemp! p. 22

Crochet Thread

All You Need to Know p. 48

Super Stylish Crochet Shoes p. 23

Yesteryear Top p. 34

An Indigo Pillow You Have to Make +3 Ways to Dye Your Crochet

www.interweave.com


contents Interweave Crochet volume XII number 2

Summer 2018

Projects

Features

Summer Blues

17

8

Blue-on-Blue Sweater Jane Howorth Instructions page 12

10 11

18 20 48

From the Tropics 22

Light of Day Tote Donna Childs Instructions page 26

23

Shibori Dyeing Maria O’Keefe

Shibori Pillow Maria O’Keefe Instructions page 15

Ombré Dyeing Brenda K. B. Anderson

Ombré Nesting Baskets Brenda K. B. Anderson Instructions page 14

Blue-on-Blue Dyeing Jane Howorth

Lovable, Wearable Cotton: A Spinner Explains the Magic of Crochet Thread Anne Merrow

78

Daybreak Espadrilles

Crochet Confessions Salena Baca

Brenda K. B. Anderson Instructions page 27

24

First Light Rug

Departments

Gwen Buttke McGannon Instructions page 30

25

Basking Crossbody Bag Ashlyn Holmes Instructions page 32

Sweet Summer Lace 34

Yesteryear Top Mimi Alelis Instructions page 38

36

Ever-New Skirt Kristin Lynn Instructions page 41

37

Time-Honored Sweater Natasha Robarge Instructions page 44

Midsummer Maritime 50

Coastal Tunic Alla Koval Instructions page 60

52

Aquatic Swimsuit Isa Catepillán Instructions page 63

53

Seafaring Shorts Jane Howorth Instructions page 66

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Saltwater Top Natasha Robarge Instructions page 68

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Cruising Wrap Arica Presinal Instructions page 70

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Going Ashore Shawl Sharon Ballsmith Instructions page 72

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Sailorly Tote Lexi Nelson Instructions page 73

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Heart of the Sea Keychain Beth Ann Hulevitch Instructions page 75

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Pelagic Cover-Up Laurie Sand Instructions page 75

2 4 6 78 79 80

Strands Reading Nook New and Notable Online Glossary Project Index

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strands Ready for a summer getaway?

Escape into your crochet with the beautiful projects from this issue. When we realized our summer photo shoot was scheduled for early February, we thought we should probably plan to stay indoors for it. And thank goodness we did! We woke up the day of the photo shoot to a winter wonderland of snow and ice. Challenging (and icy) days make me appreciate having a wonderful team, and the team for this magazine was spectacular. We were all in a summer mind-set, even with the snow! he projects in this issue have had us ready for warmer temperatures for what feels like forever, so we’re very glad summer is inally here. Take your crochet out onto the grass and add some color to your day! You won’t believe the amazing projects in our Summer Blues story—all of which are dyed blue. Check out the articles on each dyeing technique to learn how to inish of your projects in style. We also feature designs made from ibers grown in the tropics, so you can experiment with this summer trend and use raia, hemp, and abaca to make incredible crochet projects. And no summer issue would be complete without some lace. We have three lace projects that are so beautiful, they’ll take your breath away.

Summer 2018

Group Editorial Director, Yarn & Fiber Anne Merrow Editor Sara Dudek Managing Editor Rachel Koon Project Editor Susanna Tobias Technical Editors Joan Beebe, Jenny Brigham, Jean Clement, Tian Connaughton, Lindsay Glenn, Marty Miller, Kristine Mullen, Daniela Nii, Amy Polcyn Copy Editor Laurel Robinson Proofreader Nancy Arndt .............................. Advertising Manager Diane Kocal Advertising Manager Doreen Connors Ad Trafficker Lori Hauser Senior Marketing Manager Jessi Rodriguez Newsstand Sales Scott T. Hill (Scott.hill@procirc.com) .............................. Art Director Kit Kinseth Graphic Designer Kyle Hathcoat Photography Harper Point Photography Staff Photographers George Boe, Ann Swanson Styling Tina Gill Hair and Makeup Janie Rocek Technical Illustration Joan Beebe, Jean Clement, Tian Connaughton, Lindsay Glenn, Daniela Nii, Amy Polcyn Interweave Crochet® (ISSN 1937-0008) is published quarterly by F+W Media, Inc., 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5546. (800) 272-2193. USPS #025-111. Periodicals postage paid at Fort Collins, CO 80525 and additional mailing offices. All contents of this issue of Interweave Crochet are copyrighted by F+W Media, Inc., 2018. All rights reserved. Interweave main office: 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, Colorado 80525-5576 • (866) 949-1646 www.interweave.com

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Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

But if you’re really looking for an escape, you’ll love our designs with a nautical theme. Find a beautiful blue bikini, cute swimsuit cover-ups, a pair of shorts, a summer wrap, and an incredible beach tote. You’ll have all you need to escape into summer! his issue is packed full of innovative projects for wherever your summer adventures take you. hank you for bringing crochet on your journey. Happy stitching!

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. Subscription rate is $21.95/ one year in the United States, $25.95/one year in Canada, and $28.95/one year in international countries (surface delivery) U.S. funds only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at www.interweave.com /interweave-errata-corrections. Interweave Crochet® does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Interweave Crochet. Nor does Interweave Crochet evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Interweave Crochet. Visit us on the Web at www.interweave.com. For advertising information, call Diane Kocal at (317) 482-0120 or email diane.kocal@fwmedia.com; call Doreen Connors at (516) 498-7463 or email doreen.connors@ fwmedia.com; or visit the website at www.interweave.com. For sales information, call (866) 949-1646 or email sales@ fwmedia.com. For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, email crochet@interweave.com, or write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576. Interweave Crochet Subscription Services Email Address: crochet@emailcustomerservice.com U.S. & Canadian Customer Service: (888) 403-5986 International Customer Service: (386) 246-0105 Mail: PO Box Box 433289, Palm Coast, FL 32142 POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Interweave Crochet, PO Box 433289, Palm Coast, FL 32142. RETAILERS: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in your store, please call (800) 289-0963 or email sales@fwmedia.com.

Founder Linda Ligon Director of Content Strategy Stephen Koenig Director of Marketing Kim Greenlee Director of Media Sales Julie Macdonald

Chief Executive Officer Greg Osberg Chief Financial Officer Jennifer Graham SVP, General Manager, F+W Craft Group John Bolton Managing Director, F+W International James Woollam VP, General Counsel Robert Sporn VP, Human Resources Gigi Healy VP, Manufacturing and Logistics Phil Graham SUBSCRIBERS: Have a question about your Interweave Crochet subscription? Visit our website, email, call, or fax your question, and we’ll be happy to assist you. Go to www.interweave.com and click on the subscription options to subscribe or give a gift, change your address, pay your bills, and to submit subscription questions or concerns. Please allow six weeks for processing address changes. Your customer number on the address label is your key to the best service possible. Please include it with all correspondence to avoid delays or errors. Our other fine fiber magazines: Handwoven • Interweave Knits • knitscene • knit.wear PieceWork • Spin Off


book reviews

Reading Nook Check out these books for exciting summer projects!

Summertime Crochet Helgrid Van Impelen and Verena Woehlk Appel, Stackpole Books

This book of thirty crochet patterns is perfect for summer. The patterns are separated into three sections: “A Day at the Beach,” “Summer in the City,” and “Let’s Have a Party.” The beach section includes patterns for swimsuits, beach bags, headbands, and more. The city section features cute tops and stylish espadrilles, and the party section has patterns for fancy tops and elegant clutches. You’ll ind a refresher on all things crochet in the back. Paperback, 112 pages, $22.95, ISBN 9780811717748

Modern Bohemian Crochet Beth Nielsen, Interweave

Learn unique crochet stitches while making garments with free-spirited style! This book features twenty crochet patterns, each using a unique or obscure stitch. Create cardigans using hairpin lace, use the spike stitch to dress up your new favorite crochet tote, or make a cute crossbody bag with the basketweave stitch. Schematics and charts accompany the patterns; flip to the back for a list of abbreviations and a handy glossary. Paperback, 126 pages, $22.99, ISBN 9781632503169

Macramé for Beginners and Beyond Amy Mullins and Marnia Ryan-Raison, SewandSo

Although it’s not quite crochet, macramé is a close relative of our beloved craft, and this fantastic book might inspire you to try it out! This handy book includes twenty-four easy patterns for home and garden. Create trendy wall hangings, beautiful buntings, and even a deck chair! You’ll love all the patterns for these modern designs, and the plentiful pictures and illustrations will help you get started if you’re new to the craft. Paperback, 128 pages, $23.99, ISBN 9781446306631

To see Interweave’s collection of crochet books, visit www.interweave.com 4

Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018


Featuring ‘NANAIMO’ from the Sugar Bush Yarn Collection

Spring Stripe Rug Java 100% hemp 100g/219 yds

www.sugarbushyarns.com Designed in Canada …where we turn cold into cool! 1700 BASSETT AVENUE, LISTOWEL, ONTARIO, CANADA N4W 0B1 |

w w w. u n i v e r s a l y a r n . c o m

844-519-4242 | info@sugarbushyarns.com

Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

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new & notable

Our favorite products for summer! 2

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Maine Fiber Tools, based out of Saco, Maine, has created this yarn bowl from top-grain leather, brass hardware, and figured maple. At 4.5 inches tall and 6.5 inches wide, it’s the perfect bowl for every cake of yarn!

Addi has taken its popular Color Coded Crochet Hook design and made it with beautiful olive wood! The olive-wood handle has a secure grip and is finished with a plant-based oil. The tip is turbo-plated so it can hold up to your toughest crochet project.

LEATHER YARN BOWL MAINE FIBER TOOLS

Retail price: $50.00–$55.00 www.MaineFiberTools.etsy.com

OLIVE WOOD CROCHET HOOK ADDI (DISTRIBUTED BY SKACEL)

Retail price: $16.00 www.skacelknitting.com

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A Yarn Buddy is your best friend when it comes to holding your yarn. Use this spinning device to hold a cake or center-pull ball of yarn so you can easily work from it as you crochet. No more rolling balls of yarn! The Yarn Buddy is available in a wide variety of woods that are sustainably harvested from around the world.

This small crossbody bag measures 6.5 inches long, 3.5 inches wide, and 3 inches deep, making it the perfect satchel for your favorite crochet hooks. You can keep other crafting supplies such as yarn needles or stitch markers in it as well. This bag is handmade by artisans in Bali from foraged wild grass, so your purchase supports a craft tradition from another part of the world.

YARN BUDDIES SUN VALLEY FIBERS

Retail price: $32.00–$40.00 www.sunvalleyfibers.com 6

Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

ROVE CROSSBODY BAG 31BITS

Retail price: $64.00 www.31bits.com


Summer Dye your crochet to bring on the blues

Blue-on-Blue Sweater by Jane Howorth This sweater features a softer take on the traditional shibori look with a subtly mottled surface inspired by natural minerals. Create this sweater’s intricate color patterning by dyeing with a dark blue dye on a light blue yarn. YARN Patons Silk Bamboo, distributed by Spinrite. PAGE 12.

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Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018


Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

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Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018


Summer Shibori Pillow by Maria O’Keefe Crocheted cotton motifs are transformed using shibori resist techniques with indigo dye. The bright contrast of blue against white left from the shibori resists creates a clean look for summer. Dye each motif according to your own tastes for a beautiful pillow. YARN Knit Picks Simply Cotton Organic Worsted, distributed by Crafts Group LLC. PAGE 15. OPPOSITE PAGE: Ombré Nesting Baskets by Brenda K. B. Anderson These sturdy baskets are made holding four strands of yarn together while crocheting over a strand of rope. They are dyed using a cold-water dye that doesn’t require a heat source, which makes this a great project for summer. The dyeing method is very easy, even for those who have never dyed before. YARN Jo Sharp Soho Summer DK Cotton, distributed by Kingisher Yarn & Fibre. PAGE 14.

Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

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Pattern

Summer Blues

next dc, *ch 4, dc3tog, working first leg in 4th ch from hook, 2nd leg in same dc as last leg of last dc3tog, sk next 2 dc, 3rd leg in next dc; rep from * to end, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, *3 dc in next 4-ch sp; rep from * across, turn. Rep Rows 2–3 for patt.

PANELS Back With larger hook, ch 99 (105, 108, 111, 114). Row 1: Work Row 1 of panel patt (see Stitch Guide)—96 (102, 105, 108, 111) sts. Rows 2–9 (11, 11, 13, 13): Cont in panel patt, ending with Row 3 of panel patt. Piece should measure about 6 (7¼, 7¼, 8½, 8½)", pm at end of last row for neck edge. Cont in patt as est until piece measures 15½ (16¾, 18¼, 19½, 21)", ending last rep with Row 2 of panel patt, pm at end of next row for neck edge. Work 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) more rows, ending last rep with Row 3 of panel patt. Piece

Post st patt (multiple of 3 sts + 1): Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 2 dc, *FPdc around next st, dc in next 2 dc; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 2: (WS) Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *BPdc around next st, dc in next 2 dc; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rep Rnds 1–2 for patt.

Blue-on-Blue Sweater

Measurements:

Jane Howorth

A bust width

E shoulder width

21½ (24, 25½, 28, 291⁄5)" 54.5 (61, 65, 71, 74.5) cm

6 (7¼, 7¼, 8½, 8½)" 15 (18.5, 18.5, 21.5, 21.5) cm

B hem to underarm

F neck width

14¼ (15½, 16¼, 16¼, 16½)" 36 (30.5, 41.5, 41.5, 42) cm

9½ (9½, 11, 11, 12½)" 24 (24, 28, 28, 31.5) cm

C cuff circumference

G front neck height

12 (12, 13¼, 14¾, 15¼)" 30.5 (30.5, 33.5, 37.5, 38.5) cm

1½" 1.3 cm

D sleeve length

H upper sleeve circumference

13½" 34.5 cm

16 (16, 16, 17¼, 17¼)" 40.5 (40.5, 40.5, 44, 44) cm

PLUS SIZE Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 44 (48½, 51½, 56½, 59½)" bust circumference, to it bust sizes 34 (38, 42, 46, 50)". Sample shown measures 44", modeled with 12" ease. YARN Patons Silk Bamboo (distributed by Spinrite) (70% bamboo, 30% silk; 102 yd [93 m]/2.2 oz [65 g]; ): sea, 11 (13, 14, 15, 16) balls. HOOK Sizes G/6 (4 mm) and E/4 (3.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Removable st markers (m); yarn needle; 2 sachets Dylon Fabric Hand Dye in Navy Blue; 10 yd waste yarn; glass or plastic marbles, 12; rubber bands, 12. GAUGE 17 sts and 6 rows = 4" in panel patt; 18 sts and 10 rnds = 4" in post st patt with larger hook.

D

C

E

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H

sleeve

sleeve front & back B

See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes

Stitch Guide Panel patt (multiple of 3 sts + 4): Row 1: (RS) Dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped 3 ch count as dc), dc across, turn. Row 2: Ch 7, dc3tog, working first leg in 4th ch from hook, 2nd leg in top of last dc of previous row, sk next 2 dc, 3rd leg in

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Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

<5

Stitch Key 4>

rep for patt

Front and back panels are worked from side to side separately, then blocked and dyed using blue-on-blue dyeing method (see article on page 17). Panel edgings and sleeves are then added, and sleeves are worked in the round from the shoulder toward the cuff.

A

Panel patt

= chain (ch) <3

2>

= double crochet (dc) = dc3tog

<1

3-st patt rep


should measure 21½ (24, 25½, 28, 29½)". Fasten off at end of last row.

RIGHT SHOULDER: Work as for back panel until 9 (11, 11, 13, 13) rows are complete and piece measures 6 (7Ÿ, 7Ÿ, 8½, 8½)", ending last rep with Row 3 of panel patt, turn.

SHAPE NECK: Dec Row 1: Ch 3, sk first 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, dc3tog, working first leg in 4th ch from hook, 2nd leg in same st as first dc of row, sk next 2 dc, 3rd leg in next dc, cont in panel patt as est, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;93 (99, 102, 105, 108) sts rem. Dec Row 2: Work in panel patt across to last 2 ch-4 sps, 2 dc in first ch-4 sp, dc4tog, working first leg in same ch-4 sp, and all 3

LEFT SHOULDER: Cont in patt as est until piece measures 21½ (24, 25½, 28, 29½)" from beg, ending last rep with Row 3 of panel patt. Fasten off at end of last row.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

Panel preparation: Block panels to finished size. Dye each panel according to instructions on page 17.

Shoulder edging: With larger hook and RS of front panel facing, join yarn with sl st in top right-hand corner, ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), work 2 dc around each Row 3 of patt row-end, 3 dc around each Row 2 row-end of patt until there are 23 (28, 28, 33, 33) sts. Fasten off. With RS facing, join yarn with sl st at m on other neck edge of front panel, complete as for first shoulder. Fasten off. Rep for back panel.

Join shoulders: With WS of panels tog, join yarn with sl st at side edge, ch 1, *sl st blo of next st on front panel and flo of next st on back panel tog; rep from * to end. Fasten off. Rep for other shoulder but do not fasten off. Instead, change to smaller hook, ch 1, sc around neck opening, spacing sts as for shoulder edging. Fasten off.

Right side seam and sleeve: Row 1: With larger hook and RS facing, sl st in bottom right corner of front panel to join, ch 3, dc in each dc across to shoulder, 2 dc around each dc or ch-3 at shoulder edging, 2 dc in shoulder seam, dc in each dc of back panel to end, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;96 (102, 105, 108, 111) sts before and after shoulder seam. Row 2: With WS of panels tog, ch 1, work in sl st blo and flo along side seam as for shoulder join for 60 (66, 69, 69, 72) sts, 36 (36, 36, 39, 39) sts rem to shoulder seam; cont working along front edge of armhole, ch 2, dc (counts as dc2tog), FPdc around next st, *2 dc in next st, FPdc around next st; rep from * around armhole opening to last st before side seam, dc in next st, sl st in in top of beg dc2tog to join in the rnd, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;72 (72, 72, 78, 78) sleeve sts. Pm for sleeve seam. Dec rnd: Ch 3, dc2tog, work in post st patt (see Stitch Guide) across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;2 sts decâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d. Work in post st patt as est, rep dec rnd every 4 (4, 6, 6, 8)th rnd 8 (8, 5, 5, 4) more timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;54 (54, 60, 66, 68) sts rem. If necessary, cont in patt until sleeve measures 13½", change to smaller hook, work 1 rnd sc, sl st in top of first sc to join. Fasten off. Rep for left side seam and sleeve. Weave in ends. Block. íˇ&#x20AC;

JANE HOWORTH has been crocheting since she was a child and combines full-time designing with teaching at her LYS in North Wales, United Kingdom. She always aims to stay true to her principles of designing beautiful, fashionable, and wearable items. Find her online on Facebook, Ravelry, and Twitter @JaneHoworthKnit.

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ www.interweave.com

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Summer Blues

Front

rem legs in next ch-4 sp, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;90 (96, 99, 102, 105) sts rem. Next 9 (9, 11, 11, 13) rows: Cont in panel patt until piece measures 14Âź (15½, 17, 18Âź, 19ž)", ending last rep with Row 2 of patt, turn. Inc Row 1: Work in patt across, 3 dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-3, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;93 (99, 102, 105, 108) sts. Inc Row 2: Ch 7, dc2tog, working first leg in 4th ch and 2nd leg into top of last dc of last row, cont in patt to endâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;96 (102, 105, 108, 111) sts.


Summer Blues

over rope (see Notes), 2 sc (inc) in each sc aroundâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;16 sc. Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 8 timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;24 sts. Rnd 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] 8 timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;32 sts. Rnd 5: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 8 timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;40 sts. Rnd 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts] 8 timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;48 sts. Rnd 7: [Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] 8 timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;56 sts. Rnd 8: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts] 8 timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;64 sts. Rnd 9: [Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts] 8 timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;72 sts. Rnd 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts] 8 timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;80 sts. Do not fasten off.

OmbrĂŠ Nesting Baskets Brenda K. B. Anderson

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE About 5½ (7½, 9Âź)" in diameter and 3ž (4Âź, 4ž)" tall. YARN Jo Sharp Soho Summer DK Cotton (distributed by Kingisher Yarn & Fibre) (100% cotton; 109 yd [100 m]/1ž oz ): #212 poplin, 3 (4, 6) balls. [50 g]; HOOK Size I/9 (5.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle; stitch marker (m); 6 mm or Âź" cotton rope, 10 (14, 20) yards; 6â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7" wooden handles, 1 pair (optional). GAUGE Base rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 = 4½" in diameter; 8 sts and 5 rnds = 2½" in side patt. See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Baskets are crocheted first and then dyed using ombrĂŠ dyeing method (see article on page 18). For a complete set of baskets, you will need 12 balls of yarn and 40 yards of rope. Baskets are worked holding 4 strands of yarn together. After working Round 1, you will work over a thick cotton macramĂŠ cord or rope for remainder of basket, adjusting tension by pulling on the cord every few stitches to keep your work from cupping. Baskets are worked in continuous rounds.

Pattern LARGE BASKET Base Rnd 1: Leaving 16" tail, holding 4 strands tog, make an adjustable ring, 8 sc in ring, do not joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;8 sc. Rnd 2: Leave 6" length of rope, working 14

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2018

Sides Rnd 1: Sc blo aroundâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;80 sts. Rnds 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;11: Sc around. Cut rope, leaving 4" tail. Bring cord/rope tail to front of work, sl st in next st. Fasten off. Cut yarn, leaving 4" tail. Place marker (pm) in first stitch.

MEDIUM BASKET Base Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;8: Rep Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;8 of large basket base.

Sides: Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10: Rep Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10 of large basket sides. Cut rope, leaving 4" tail. Bring cord/ rope tail to front of work, sl st in next st. Fasten off. Cut yarn, leaving 4" tail. Place marker (pm) in first stitch.

SMALL BASKET Base Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6: Rep Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 of large basket base.

Sides: Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9: Rep Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9 of large basket sides. Cut rope, leaving 4" tail. Bring cord/ rope tail to front of work, sl st in next st. Fasten off. Cut yarn, leaving 4" tail. Place marker (pm) in first stitch.

FINISHING Assembly Fold edge of basket down toward outside of basket. Tuck both cord/rope end and yarn tails into the fold to hide ends within the folded edge. Insert hook (from outside of basket to inside of basket) through marked st and then through st 3 rows below, working through both thicknesses, with 4 strands held tog, sl st around. Fasten off. Trim beg tail of rope to 4". Coil tail at center bottom of basket. Using beg yarn tail and yarn needle, whipstitch in place. Weave in ends. Dye baskets according to instructions on page 18. Sew handles to large basket (optional). íˇ&#x20AC;

BRENDA K. B. ANDERSON crochets and knits on her end of the couch after her kids have gone to bed. She is the author of Beastly Crochet and Crochet Ever After and just canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to resist starting new yarn-y projects. Find her on Ravelry as yarnville.


Rnd 5: Sl st in corner sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 6 times; rep from * 2 times, ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 5 times, ch 1, sl st in first sc to join—24 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps. Rnd 6: Sl st in corner sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 7 times; rep from * 2 times, ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 6 times, ch 1, sl st in first sc to join—28 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps. Rnd 7: Sl st in corner sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 8 times; rep from * 2 times, ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 7 times, ch 1, sl st in first sc to join—32 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps. Rnd 8: Sl st in corner sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in

Maria O’Keefe

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE About 19½" square. YARN Knit Picks Simply Cotton Organic Worsted (distributed by Crafts Group LLC) (100% organic cotton; 164 yd – ): #80 [150 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; marshmallow, 5 balls. HOOK Size I/9 (5.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle; st marker (m); plastic safety pins; 1" buttons, 4 (sample used bamboo #116579905 from Lyanwood at etsy.com); sewing thread (navy); 18" square pillow form; dark navy felt, 5/8 yd. GAUGE Motif = 6½" square; 8 sts and 7 sps and 16 rows = 4" in patt (blocked). See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Motifs are worked first and then dyed in indigo using shibori resist methods (see article on page 20). Motifs are then sewn together to form front. Reverse side of pillow is made in 2 panels with shibori design and buttons down center. Front and back panels are then sewn together. Make and dye 1–2 extra motifs to select the most consistent color and resist results in the 9 final selected motifs used for pillow front. Marker indicates beginning of rounds. Move marker to first stitch of each round as work progresses.

Pattern FRONT Motif (make 9–11—see Notes) Make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 15 dc Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

15

Summer Blues

Shibori Pillow

in ring, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join, pull tail to tighten ring—16 dc. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in sp bet next 2 dc, place marker (pm) (see Notes), *ch 2, sc in sp bet next 2 dc (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 3 times; rep from * 2 times, ch 2, sc in sp bet next 2 dc (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 2 times, ch 1, sl st in first sc to join—12 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps. Rnd 3: Sl st in corner sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 4 times; rep from * 2 times, ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 3 times, ch 1, sl st in first sc to join—16 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps. Rnd 4: Sl st in corner sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 5 times; rep from * 2 times, ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 4 times, ch 1, sl st in first sc to join—20 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps.


Summer Blues

* across, ch 1, sc in last sc, turn. Rows 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;45: Rep Row 2 until panel measures 11" from beg, turn. Fasten off at end of last row.

Edging Working in rem lps of beg ch, sl st in first ch-1 sp to join, *sl st in rem lps of ch opposite first sc, sl st in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across, ending with sl st in rem lps of ch opposite last sc. Fasten off.

Panel A finishing Weave in ends. Pm to indicate WS. Dye, wash, dry, and block to 18½" Ă&#x2014; 11Âź".

Panel B (buttonhole panel) Ch 72. Row 1: (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;36 sc, 35 ch-1 sps. Row 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across, ch 1, sc in last sc, turn. Rows 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;37: Rep Row 2 until panel measures 9" from beg. Row 38 (buttonhole row): Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in first ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next sp] 6 times, *ch 3, sk next 3 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next sp] 5 times; rep from * 3 times, ch 1, sc in last sc, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;4 buttonholes. Row 39: Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next sp] 5 times, *ch 1, sc in first ch of next 3 ch, ch 1, sk next ch, sc in last ch of same 3 ch, [ch 1, sc in next sp] 5 times; rep from * 3 times, ch 1, sc in next sp, ch 1, sc in first sc, turn. Rows 40â&#x20AC;&#x201C;42: Rep Row 2. Row 43: Sl st in first sp, *sl st in next sc, sl st in next sp; rep from * across, sl st in last sc. Fasten off.

Panel B finishing Weave in ends. Pm to indicate WS. Dye, wash, dry, and block to 18½" Ă&#x2014; 10Âź".

Pillow assembly

next sp] 9 times; rep from * 2 times, ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 8 times, ch 1, sl st in first sc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;36 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps. Rnd 9: Sl st in corner sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 10 times; rep from * 2 times, ch 2, sc in same sp (corner), [ch 1, sc in next sp] 9 times, ch 1, sl st in first sc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;40 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps. Fasten off.

2 lps of adjacent st on other motif. [Insert needle through top lps of next st on same motif, then through top lps of adjacent st on opposite motif] across. Fasten off. When seam is complete, motifs should lie flat.* Rep from * to join one additional motif to create a strip of 3 motifs.

STRIP ASSEMBLY

Lay down front with WS facing up. Place Panel A, RS facing, on top of front, bottom edges even. Then place panel B, RS facing, on top, aligning top edge with top edge of front piece. Buttonholes should be at center of pillow. Mark areas on panel A where buttons will be sewn and sew buttons in place. Button panels tog. Tack corners of panels A and B tog. With WS tog, pin back to front about every 2". Sew front to back using method est for motif join.

Pillow liner

Front finishing

BACK

Cut two 19½" squares from felt. Sew 3 sides tog with â&#x2026;&#x153;" seam allowance, leaving one side open. Clip corners and turn inside out. Insert pillow form and sew closed.

Weave in ends. Dye, wash, dry, and block each motif to gauge. Dye extra yarn to sew motifs tog.

Panel A

FINISHING

Ch 72. Row 1: (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;36 sc, 35 ch-1 sps. Row 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from

Weave in ends. Unbutton pillow back to insert pillow liner. Button closed. íˇ&#x20AC;

MOTIF STRIPS (MAKE 3) *With WS facing, holding 2 motifs so stitches align, insert needle through top 2 lps of first st of one motif, then through top

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Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2018

Cont as est, join motif strips tog into a square. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

MARIA Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;KEEFE loves coffee and crochet and stomping her acreage in rural Kansas with her neighborâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s five dogs.


online

Blue-on-Blue Dyeing Jane Howorth

This shibori technique requires a little patience and time, but the effects are stunning and truly one of a kind. To create this effect, wet-block the Blue-on-Blue Sweater’s front and back panels to the dimensions shown in the schematic on p. 12 and let them dry. Collect the materials needed: blue dye, yarn needle, waste yarn, marbles, rubber bands, and clothespins.

Photos by Jane Howorth

Check over the panels after gathering; any open areas can be filled by a marble or secured with a rubber band. You can also use clothespins to secure areas of ungathered fabric.

The dyeing technique involves working multiple rows of gathered running stitches all over the fabric. Choose a waste yarn that is different in texture, color, and composition from the yarn used for the sweater. Thread a length of waste yarn through your yarn needle and work running stitches in different directions throughout the fabric.

Prepare the dyebath following the manufacturer’s instructions and dye both panels at the same time. Leave the pieces in the dye for the recommended length of time, stirring occasionally. Remove pieces from the dye, thoroughly wash and rinse them following the yarn manufacturer’s instructions, and leave to dry. Wait until the fabric is almost dry, then take out pegs, bands, or marbles and cut the gathering threads. Have patience, a pair of sharp, pointed scissors, and a good light. Cut carefully, and if in doubt about whether a thread is a gather or is part of the panel, leave it and undo a different area before revisiting the thread in question. When all the gathers are removed, spread out the panels and let them dry completely.

It’s important to use different stitch lengths to achieve a random effect. Pull up the gathers tightly every few stitches; this will exclude the dye from more of the fabric and ensure that the original color remains visible after the dyeing process.

JANE HOWORTH has been crocheting since she was a child and combines full-time designing with teaching in North Wales, United Kingdom. She always aims to stay true to her principles of designing beautiful, fashionable, and wearable items. Find her on Facebook, Ravelry, and Twitter @JaneHoworthKnit. Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

17


Ombré Dyeing Brenda K. B. Anderson

Ombré dyeing is a great way to add a touch of sophistication to your favorite crochet projects. Try this method on the Ombré Nesting Baskets. First, crochet the baskets according to the instructions on p. 14, then gather the materials for dyeing: fabric detergent (Synthrapol), dye fixative (soda ash), blue dye, sealable jar, salt, plastic tub or bucket, gloves, old towels, and masking tape. Always follow the safety instructions for your chosen dye and wear gloves because many dyes are toxic.

PRESOAK THE BASKETS

SECOND DYEBATH In the sealable jar, dissolve 1 cup of dye fixative in warm water and pour it into the dyebath, then dissolve 1 cup of salt in warm water in the sealable jar, pour it into the dyebath, and stir. Place the baskets back in the dyebath and let them sit for 5 minutes, then use the jar to add warm water to the bath until the water level rises 1". Let the baskets sit for 10 minutes. Remove the baskets, drain the water, and rinse the tub.

Photos this page by Brenda K. B. Anderson

Fill the tub with enough hot water, fabric detergent, and dye fixative to completely submerge the baskets. Let the baskets soak for 30–60 minutes. Remove the baskets, set them aside, and drain the water.

RINSE DISSOLVING THE DYE Follow the dissolving instructions on the dye you’ve chosen, using the sealable jar for mixing.

Rinse the baskets under cold water until the water washes light in color. Fill the tub with enough warm water to submerge the dyed portion of the baskets and add the fabric detergent. Let the baskets soak for 10 minutes. Continue rinsing the baskets until the water runs clear. Set the baskets aside to dry.

FIRST DYEBATH Place the nested baskets inside the empty tub and tape a fill line on the tub one-third the height of the largest basket. Remove the baskets and set them aside. Fill the tub with warm water to 1" below the fill mark. Dissolve 1 cup of salt in the warm water, then add the dissolved dye from the jar. Place the nested baskets in the dyebath for 10–15 minutes. Remove the baskets and set them aside. Do not drain the dyebath.

Sew the handles onto the top of the large basket once it is dry. For more detailed instructions, check out our blog at www.interweave.com/ article/crochet/ombredyeing/

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Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

BRENDA K. B. ANDERSON crochets and knits on her end of the couch after her kids have gone to bed. She is the author of Beastly Crochet and Crochet Ever After and just can’t seem to resist starting new yarn-y projects. Find her on Ravelry as yarnville.


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Handy Hands, Inc • 578 N 1800 E • Paxton, IL 60957 (217) 379-3802 • staf@hhtatting.com Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

19


beyond the basics

Shibori Dyeing Maria O’Keefe

Shibori is a resist-dyeing technique that creates patterns on fabric. The resists are created by folding, stitching and gathering, clamping, binding, tying . . . if there’s a way to compress fabric so that the dye can’t penetrate to that area, it’s a shibori resist technique. Try these three techniques on your motifs for the Shibori Pillow on p. 15. CLAMPING This resist technique prevents dye from entering the areas that are clamped. Once you get started, you’ll probably begin looking around to see what else could work as a clamp . . . like those little wooden ice cream spoons I saw at the craft store. D’oh! Now I need to go back.

For more detailed instructions, check out our blog at www.interweave .com/article/crochet/ shibori-dyeing/

To achieve the look on the sample pillow, you’ll need craft sticks, large paper clips, and clothespins. Fold the motif from the center to the corner and place a craft stick on each side of the fold. Use paper clips and clothespins to secure. Repeat for each corner of the motif.

This motif was clamped with eight plastic bag clips. The clip ends easily push through the ch-1 spaces of the pillow pattern motif and snap into place.

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Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018


BINDING

GATHERING

In this classic tie-dye method, wrap one rubber band around the center of the motif and then add more rubber bands to form a tube.

Create interesting effects by weaving bulky synthetic yarn through the crocheted fabric and then pulling it tight before dyeing.

Use a separate length for each round you gather. Once you’ve woven in the yarn, pull each length tight and knot the ends together. Cut ends to about one inch.

I gathered six rounds for this motif, but you can do fewer. You don’t even have to gather in rounds (the motif design lends itself to that, though)—you can weave straight across or in curves. Just keep it simple and remember to pull those gathers tight.

You can experiment with this method. I wrapped a rubber band around the center of the motif and then pushed my finger up beneath each corner to create another area to wrap. Once I had five wrapped areas, I added four more rubber bands. The more you bind, the more white (or undyed) areas will be present in your finished piece.

Dyeing motifs with different shibori resist effects can be somewhat addictive, and I encourage you to crochet a few extra motifs just to see what you can come up with.

MARIA O’KEEFE loves coffee and crochet and stomping around her acreage in rural Kansas with her neighbor’s five dogs.

Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

21


from the

Tropics Palm and plant fibers create unique summer projects

Light of Day Tote by Donna Childs Experiment with plant ibers with this exciting abacacotton–blend yarn. The unique yarn shines in this open lace stitch, creating a bag perfect for a trip to the farmer’s market or a fun summer excursion. YARN HiKoo Woodi, distributed by Skacel. PAGE 26. OPPOSITE PAGE: Daybreak Espadrilles by Brenda K. B. Anderson Crocheted hemp twine pairs nicely with beautiful jute espadrille soles to create the perfect summer shoes. This smooth hemp twine has no elasticity, but when worked up in this V-stitch pattern, it has just enough stretch to hug your feet. Wooden beads and fringe give these free-spirited shoes a summer-festival vibe. YARN Hemp Traders Hemp Twine 1mm. PAGE 27.

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Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018


Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ www.interweave.com

23


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Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018


from the

Tropics Basking Crossbody Bag by Ashlyn Holmes The bag is a crocheted take on trendy round woven bags made from palms and other plant-based materials. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re traveling for the summer or running errands at home, this crossbody purse is the perfect companion for all your summer adventures. YARN 23 Bees 22 lb Hemp Cord. PAGE 32. OPPOSITE PAGE: First Light Rug by Gwen Buttke McGannon The motifs in this rug build a textured circle with the use of front and back post stitches, then each circle is transformed into a square and joined as you go to the other motifs in a three-by-ive grid. YARN Universal Yarn Yashi. PAGE 30.

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From the Tropics

Light of Day Tote Donna Childs

**, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same ch as join, *[ch 2, {dc in next dc, ch 1} 4 times, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp] 2 times, ch 2, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 4 times, dc in next dc, ch 2**, sc in next dc; rep from * to **, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), *[dc in next dc, ch 2] 4 times, dc in next dc; rep from * 2 times**, dc in next sc; rep from * to **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 6: Ch 5, *[sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, sk next dc and ch-2 sp, sh in next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp and dc, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 5, sk next 2 dc] 2 times, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, sk next dc and ch-2 sp, sh in next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp and dc, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2**, dc in next dc; rep from * to **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-3 to join. Rnds 7â&#x20AC;&#x201C;17: Rep Rnds 4â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 three times, then rep Rnds 4â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 one time.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first 9 sc, ch 39, sk next 17 sc, sc in next 17 sc, ch 39, sk next 17 sc, sc in next 8 sts, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch around, sl st in first sc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;112 sts. Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block. í·&#x20AC;

DONNA CHILDS lives on the New England coast and crochets everywhere, even at the beach. Find her online at www.donnachilds.blogspot.com.

Top edging and strap:

excluding strap. YARN HiKoo Woodi (distributed by Skacel) (53% abaca pulp, 47% cotton; 60 yd [55 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #1015 palm, 3 hanks. HOOK Size K/10 (6.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle. GAUGE 14 sc and 7 rnds = 5" in patt.

Reduced tote patt

< 17 < 16

See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

<6

<5

Notes

<4 <3

Project uses almost all of 3rd skein of yarn. Consider purchasing an extra skein for insurance.

<2 <1

Stitch Guide Shell (sh): 5 dc in indicated st or sp.

Stitch Key

Pattern BASE/SIDES

= chain (ch)

= double crochet (dc)

= slip stitch (sl st)

= patt rep

Ch 36. Rnd 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across to last ch, 3 sc in last ch, rotate to work in rem lps of foundation ch, sc across to first ch, sc in same ch as first 2 sc, sl st in first sc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;72 sc. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Rnd 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2 throughout), *sk next st, sc in next st, ch 2, sk next 3 sts, [sh (see Stitch Guide) in next st, ch 2, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st, ch 2, sk next 3 sts] 2 times, sh in next st, ch 2, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st, ch 2, sk next st**, dc in next st, ch 2; rep from * to

= single crochet (sc)

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Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018

rep 3 times

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 13" wide and 14½" tall,

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, *sc in next dc, sc in next sp, [sc in next dc, 2 sc in next sp] 2 times, sc in next dc, sc in next sp, sc in next dc; rep from * 2 times**, sc in next dc; rep from * to **, sl st in first sc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;68 sts.


Pattern INSOLE

Sizing

Daybreak Espadrilles Brenda K. B. Anderson

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE EU women’s sizes 35–37 (38–39, 40–42); U.S. women’s sizes 5–7 (7½ –9, 9½ –11). YARN Hemp Traders Hemp Twine 1 mm (100% hemp iber; 143 yd [130 m]/3½ oz ): natural, 2 balls. [100 g]; HOOK Size C/2 (2.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS St marker (m); metal tapestry needle; quilter’s pins; ½" metal buckle with center bar, 2; (sample used: https:// www.etsy.com/listing/262687625/ small-12-inch-square-buckles-anique); espadrille jute soles, 1 pair (sample used: https://www.etsy.com/listing /240365584/espadrille-jute-soles-m35-cms-heel-35?ref=related-2); 6" piece of cardboard; large wooden beads with 5 mm center hole, 14 (sample used: http://www.iremountaingems.com /itemdetails/h209673nb). GAUGE 8 sts and 6 rows = 1½" in hdc; 8 V-sts and 12 rows = 3" in V-st patt. See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Espadrille soles are sold in EU sizes from 35–42. There are many online resources for converting U.S. sizes to EU sizes to help you determine which size to order. Sample is made with an EU size 39 espadrille sole to fit U.S. size 8½. The crocheted insole is sized to fit each of the 8 EU sizes available for the espadrille soles (EU women’s sizes 35–42). The shoe upper comes in three sizes: EU women’s sizes 35–37 (38–39, 40–42) or U.S. women’s sizes 5–7 (7½–9, 9½–11). Each shoe upper size accommodates a range of espadrille sole sizes. If you have particularly wide or narrow feet, make the insole in your regular size but make the shoe upper in the next size up or size down. There are notes within the pattern to help you customize the length of the shoe upper if you make adjustments for width. If you purchase different soles, you may need to make adjustments to the crocheted insoles. Project should be worked after soles have been purchased so adjustments can be made as needed. The crocheted insole will be about ⅛" smaller than the espadrille sole and will stretch to fit. The shoe upper should be made with about ¼" of negative ease. Make one upper at a time, taking time to check fit before finishing each shoe.

Stitch Guide V-stitch (V-st): 2 hdc in next st. Single crochet V-stitch (sc V-st): 2 sc in next V-st. Extended single crochet two together (esc2tog): Insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw through 1 lp on hook, insert hook in next st or sp, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw through 1 lp on hook, yo, draw through all lps on hook. Cluster decrease (cl dec): Dc2tog in next 2 V-sts, hdc in same st as last dc made. Reverse cluster decrease (rev cl dec): Hdc in next V-st, working in same V-st as hdc just made and in next V-st, dc2tog.

Ch 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6). Row 1: 2 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next 0 (0, 0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) ch, 2 hdc in next ch, turn—4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts. Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), 2 hdc (inc) in next st, hdc in next 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts, 2 hdc in next st, turn—6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) sts. Row 3: Ch 2, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts, 2 hdc in next st, turn—8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts. Rows 4–13 (14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 17, 18): Hdc across, turn—8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts.

Sizes 39 (40, 41, 42) only: Row 16 (17, 18, 19): 2 hdc in next st, hdc in rem sts, turn—10 (10, 11, 11) sts. Row 17 (18, 19, 20): Hdc across, turn—10 (10, 11, 11) sts.

All sizes: Row 14 (15, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21): 2 hdc in next st, hdc across, turn—9 (9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12) sts. Row 15 (16, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 22): Hdc across, turn. Row 16 (17, 17, 18, 20, 21, 22, 23): 2 hdc in next st, hdc across, turn—10 (10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13) sts. Row 17 (18, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 24): Hdc across to last st, 2 hdc in last st, turn—11 (11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14) sts. Row 18 (19, 19, 20, 22, 23, 24, 25): 2 hdc in next st, hdc across—12 (12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15) sts. Row 19 (20, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26): Hdc across to last st, 2 hdc in last st—13 (13, 13, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16) sts.

Sizes 35 (36) only: Row 20 (21): Hdc across, turn—13 sts. Row 21 (22): Esc2tog (see Stitch Guide), hdc in next 11 sts, turn—12 sts.

Sizes 37 (38, 39, 40, 41, 42) only: Row 21 (22, 24, 25, 26, 27): 2 hdc in next st, hdc across, turn—14 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17) sts. Rows 22 (23, 25, 26, 27, 28)–23 (24, 26, 27, 28, 29): Hdc across, turn—14 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17) sts. Row 24 (25, 27, 28, 29, 30): Esc2tog, hdc

Notes If working these shoes in a color other than natural, consider purchasing a ball of natural for seaming. To make evenly spaced stitches when working along your row ends (along side edge of your crocheted fabric), divide the edge into 4 equal sections with stitch markers (m), then divide the number of stitches needed by 4 and work this amount of stitches between each set of markers. When working in V-stitches, work in

Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

27

From the Tropics

natural space between stitches unless otherwise stated.


From the Tropics

in next 10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13) sts, esc2tog, turn—12 (13, 14, 14, 15, 15) sts.

All sizes: Row 22 (23, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31): Hdc across to last 2 sts, esc2tog, turn—11 (11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14) sts. Row 23 (24, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31, 32): Hdc across, turn—11 (11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14) sts. Row 24 (25, 27, 28, 30, 31, 32, 33): Hdc across to last 2 sts, esc2tog, turn—10 (10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13) sts. Row 25 (26, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34): Esc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, esc2tog, turn—8 (8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11) sts. Row 26 (27, 29, 30, 32, 33, 34, 35): Hdc across to last 2 sts, esc2tog, turn—7 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts. Row 27 (28, 30, 31, 33, 34, 35, 36): Esc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, esc2tog, turn—5 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8) sts. Row 28 (29, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 37): Esc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, esc2tog, turn—3 (3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts.

Size 41 only: Row 37: [Esc2tog] 3 times—3 sts.

Sizes 38 (39, 40, 42) only: Row 33 (35, 36, 38): Esc2tog, hdc in next 0 (1, 1, 1) st(s), esc2tog—2 (3, 3, 3) sts. Do not fasten off.

All sizes:

Right shoe edging Rotate to work in row ends toward heel, work 45 (47, 49, 51, 54, 57, 59, 62) sc across instep to middle of heel (see Notes), 45 (47, 49, 51, 54, 57, 59, 62) sc across outstep edge to toe edge, ending with [2 sc in next st, sc in next 1 (1, 1, 0, 1, 1, 1, 1) st(s), 2 sc in last st] across last row worked at toe edge. Fasten off, leaving long tail.

Left shoe edging Turn, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 1 (1, 1, 0, 1, 1, 1, 1) st(s), 2 sc in last st] across toe edge, rotate to work across row ends toward heel, work 45 (47, 49, 51, 54, 57, 59, 62) sc across outstep edge to middle of heel, 45 (47, 49, 51, 54, 57, 59, 62) sc across instep edge toward toe edge, sl st in first sc. Fasten off, leaving long tail.

Shoe upper Ch 19 (21, 23). Row 1: (WS) Working in back ridge lps, V-st (see Stitch Guide) in 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch count as hdc), sk next ch, [V-st in next ch, sk next ch] 7 (8, 9) times, hdc in last ch, turn—8 (9, 10) V-sts, 2 hdc. Rows 2–3: Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout), V-st in each V-st across (see Notes), hdc in top of skipped ch, turn—8 (9, 10) V-sts, 2 hdc. Row 4: Ch 2, 2 V-sts in next V-st, V-st in next 6 (7, 8) V-sts, 2 V-sts in next V-st, hdc in last st, turn—10 (11, 12) V-sts, 2 hdc. Rows 5–6: Ch 2, V-st in each V-st across, hdc in last st, turn. Row 7: Ch 2, 2 V-sts in next V-st, V-st in next 8 (9, 10) V-sts, 2 V-sts in next V-st, hdc 28

Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

in last st, turn—12 (13, 14) V-sts, 2 hdc. Rows 8–10 (11, 12): Rep Row 5. Note: Work one additional rep if you are using a smaller shoe upper to fit a narrow foot; work one fewer rep if you are using a larger shoe upper to fit a wide foot. Row 11 (12, 13): Ch 2, 2 V-sts in next V-st, V-st in next 10 (11, 12) V-sts, 2 V-sts in next V-st, hdc in last st, turn—14 (15, 16) V-sts, 2 hdc. Rows 12 (13, 14)–16 (18, 20): Rep Row 5. Place marker (pm) in 4th hdc of last row. This marks the 1st half of 2nd V-st of row. Note: Work one additional rep if you are

using a smaller shoe upper to fit a narrow foot; work one fewer rep if you are using a larger shoe upper to fit a wide foot. Row 17 (19, 21): Ch 1, sl st in next 3 sts (do not count as sts), ch 2, cl dec (see Stitch Guide), V-st in next 3 V-sts, sc V-st (see Stitch Guide) in next 2 (3, 4) V-sts, V-st in next 3 V-sts, rev cl dec (see Stitch Guide), hdc in marked st, leaving rem 3 sts unworked, turn—6 V-sts, 2 (3, 4) sc V-sts, 2 hdc, 2 dec. Row 18 (20, 22): Ch 2, cl dec, V-st in next 2 V-sts, sc V-st in next 2 (3, 4) V-sts, V-st in next 2 V-sts, rev cl dec, hdc in next hdc, turn—4 V-sts, 2 (3, 4) sc V-sts, 2 hdc, 2 dec.


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From the Tropics

Rows 19 (21, 23)â&#x20AC;&#x201C;24 (26, 28): Ch 2, V-st in next 3 V-sts, sc V-st in next 2 (3, 4) V-sts, V-st in next 3 V-sts, hdc in last st, turn, pm in last stitch of Row 24 (26, 28). Fasten off.

Strap RIGHT SHOE ONLY Ch 10, loosely. Row 1: Hdc in marked st of upper, V-st in next 8 (9, 10) V-sts, hdc in last st, ch 22.

LEFT SHOE ONLY Ch 20, loosely. Row 1: Hdc in marked st of upper, V-st in next 8 (9, 10) V-sts, hdc in last st, ch 12.

BOTH SHOES Row 2: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each rem ch or st across. Note: Check strap length for fit around ankle: it should be at least 1Âź" longer than your ankle circumference. Row 3: Ch 2, rotate to work in rem lps of beg ch, sl st across to corner, cont down side edge of shoe, work 14 (14, 15) sc across row-ends of curved edge to next corner, work 3 sc in corner, 20 (23, 25) sc across next side edge, 3 sc in next corner, sc in each st across toe edge, 3 sc in next corner, 20 (23, 25) sc along next side edge, 3 sc in corner, 14 (14, 15) sc along next curved edge, sl st across bottom edge of strap. Fasten off, leaving long tail.

Longer fringe detail (make 2) Ch 21. Row 1: Working in back ridge lps, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;20 sts. Row 2: Ch 1, *sl st in next st, sk next st, (2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc) in next st, sk next st, sl st in next st; rep from * 3 times. Fasten off, leaving long tail.

Shorter fringe detail (make 2) Ch 16. Row 1: Working in back ridge lps, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;15 sts. Row 2: Ch 1, *sl st in next st, sk next st, (2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 hdc) in next st, sk next st, sl st in next st; rep from * 2 times. Fasten off, leaving long tail.

FINISHING Steam-block your pieces, if necessary. Pin toe and heel of crocheted insole onto espadrille sole. Using tail ends and metal tapestry needle, sew insole to top of espadrille sole as shown in photo. Stitch through each sc around border of insole catching at least 2 strands of jute braid around top edge of espadrille sole. Pin shoe upper to top of shoe so that toe opening sits back from tip of toe by about 1½" and heel of shoe remains free (not attached to shoe upper) for about 3". Check fit of shoe (you may need to baste shoe upper into place to check fit). Sew shoe upper to crocheted insole using tail ends. Sew center bar of buckle to long end of ankle strap using tail ends. Using tail ends, sew longer piece of fringe detail to top edge of shoe upper (top edge of fringe detail should be even with top edge of ankle strap). Sew shorter fringe detail below longer fringe detail, taking care to center the points between points of longer fringe detail.

First Light Rug Gwen Buttke McGannon

FRINGE Wrap hemp twine around cardboard 70 times. Cut once through loops to make 70 pieces of 12" fringe. Arrange fringe in groups of 5 strands. Insert hook through point of fringe detail (slide hook right between the 2 dc at each point) and wrap center of 5-strand group of fringe over hook. Pull loop of fringe partway through fringe detail and then, using your fingers, pull just one set of ends through the fringe detail. Hold both groups of ends together as one and slide all ends through center of bead. Slide the bead all the way up to the fringe detail. Use a very tight overhand knot to tie the fringe together, making knot as close as possible to bead. Rep for each of the remaining 13 fringe points. Trim each section of fringe to about 2½" long. íˇ&#x20AC;

BRENDA K. B. ANDERSON crochets and knits on her end of the couch after her kids have gone to bed. She is the author of Beastly Crochet and Crochet Ever After and just canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to resist starting new yarn-y projects. Find her on Ravelry as yarnville.

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE About 43½" wide and 27" high, blocked.

YARN Universal Yarn Yashi (100% rafia; 99 yd [90 m]/1.41 oz [40 g]; ): #103 natural, 10 balls. HOOK Size H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle. GAUGE Motif = 8" square. See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Join rounds with a slip stitch as indicated unless otherwise stated. Rug is made in join-as-you-go motifs.

Stitch Guide Join with single crochet (sc-join): Make slipknot and place lp on hook, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull up a lp, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

First motif Ch 12, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 4 (counts as tr), 35 tr in ring, join (see Notes) in 3rd ch of beg ch-4â&#x20AC;&#x201D;36 tr. Rnd 2: Ch 1, BPsc around, join in first st. Rnd 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [dc in next st, ch 1] around, join in 3rd ch of beg ch-4. Rnd 4: Ch 1, FPdc around same st as join, ch 2, [FPdc around next st, ch 2] around, join in first st. Rnd 5: Ch 1, FPdc around same st as join, ch 3, [FPdc around next st, ch 3] around, join in first st. Rnd 6: Ch 1, FPdc around same FPdc as join, [FPdc around next FPdc, ch 3] 4 times, tr in next 2 sts, (tr, ch 3, tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in next 2 sts, ch 3, *[FPdc around next

30

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2018


Assembly diagram Key

1st

1

1

1

1-side join motif

1 1st

= first motif

1

2

2

2

2

1

= 1-side join motif

1

2

2

2

2

2

= 2-side join motif

Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5: Rep Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 of first motif. Rnd 6: Ch 1, FPdc around same FPdc as join, [FPdc around next FPdc, ch 3] 4 times, tr in next 2 dc, (tr, ch 1, sl st in prev motif, ch 1, tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in next 2 dc, ch 3, [FPdc in next FPdc, ch 1, sl st in prev motif, ch 1] 5 times, tr in next 2 dc, (tr, ch 1, sl st in prev motif, ch 1, tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in next 2 dc, ch 3, *[FPdc around next FPdc, ch 3] 5 times, tr in next 2 dc, (tr, ch 3, tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in next 2 dc, ch 3, ch 3; rep from * 1 time, join in first dc. Fasten off.

2-side join motif Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5: Rep Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 of first motif. Rnd 6: Ch 1, FPdc around same FPdc as join, [FPdc around next FPdc, ch 3] 4 times, tr in next 2 dc, (tr, ch 1, sl st in prev motif, ch 1, tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in next 2 dc, ch 3, *[FPdc around next FPdc, ch 1, sl st in prev motif, ch 1] 5 times, tr in next 2 dc, (tr, ch 1, sl st in prev motif, ch 1, tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in next 2 dc, ch 3; rep from * 1 time, [FPdc around next FPdc, ch 3] 5 times, tr in next 2 dc, (tr, ch 3, tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in next 2 dc, ch 3, join in first dc. Fasten off.

Pattern RUG Ch 36.

Motifs Make and join 15 motifs (see Stitch Guide) as shown in diagram.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

Edging Rnd 1: Holding rug with long edges at top and bottom, sc-join (see Stitch Guide) in corner ch-3 sp, 2 sc in same sp as join, â&#x2014;&#x160; *[sc in next 3 tr, {3 sc in next ch-3 sp} 6 times, sc in next 3 tr, sc in next ch-3 sp, sc around next sl st, sc in next ch-3 sp] across to next corner**, working last sc in corner ch-3 sp, 2 sc in same sp as last sc made*, rotate to work across short edge; rep from * to * â&#x2014;&#x160;, rotate to work across long edge; rep from â&#x2014;&#x160; to â&#x2014;&#x160;, ending last rep at **, join in first sc. Rnds 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4: Ch 1, *sc blo across to center corner sc, 3 sc in next sc; rep from * around, join in first sc. Fasten off at end of last rnd. Weave in ends. íˇ&#x20AC;

GWEN BUTTKE McGANNON has been crocheting for about thirty years and loves working with thread. She has an Etsy shop at www.etsy.com /shop/gwengoods and lives with her family in Neenah, Wisconsin.

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ www.interweave.com

31

From the Tropics

FPdc, ch 3] 5 times, tr in next 2 sts, (tr, ch 3, tr) in next ch-3 sp, tr in next 2 sts, ch 3; rep from * around, join in first st. Fasten off.


From the Tropics

around, ending last rep at markerâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;150 sts. Rnd 16: Sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

Blocking/starching Mix 3 tablespoons cornstarch with ½ cup of cold water. Pour mixture into 3 cups of boiling water and simmer for 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2 minutes, stirring continually. Pour mixture in a bowl and allow to cool. Place back and front of bag in mixture and let each piece sit for about 20 minutes. Remove pieces from mixture and gently squeeze excess starch out of each piece. Block to finished size and allow to dry.

Bag assembly

Basking Crossbody Bag Ashlyn Holmes

With front and back held RS facing out, using tapestry needle, working through both thicknesses, whipstitch through 95 sts around, leaving rem sts open for bag opening at top. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Strap

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 10½" in diameter. YARN 23 Bees 22 lb Hemp Cord (100% organic hemp; 133 yd (400 ft) ): undyed, 2 [122 m]/2.46 oz [70 g]; balls. HOOK Sizes G/6 (4 mm) and I/9 (5.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Stitch marker (m); yarn needle; 3 Tbsp cornstarch. GAUGE 9 sts = 2" and 3 rnds = 2" in diameter, blocked and starched. See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Bag is worked in 2 pieces in the round, then seamed together with the right side (RS) facing. Rounds are worked continuously. Place marker at beginning of rounds and move up with each round. The increases in each round will be stacked over each other.

Pattern CIRCLES (MAKE 2) Set-up rnd: With smaller hook, ch 4, sl st in first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: 10 hdc in ring, do not join (see Notes)â&#x20AC;&#x201D;10 sts. Rnd 2: 2 hdc (inc) in each hdc around, place marker (pm) in first hdcâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;20 sts. Rnd 3: 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in next hdc, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next hdc; rep from * around, pm in first hdcâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;30 sts. Rnds 4â&#x20AC;&#x201C;15: 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc around to first hdc of next inc, *2 hdc in first hdc of inc, hdc to first hdc of next inc; rep from *

32

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2018

Cut four 6 yd pieces of cord. With all 4 pieces held tog and larger hook, leaving a 5" tail, ch 130. Fasten off, leaving a 5" tail. Using smaller hook, pull each tail from RS to WS directly under 2nd whipstitch on each side of top of bag. Bring each tail end up to meet strap and using a small piece of cord, tie tail to strap 1" from top of bag. Cut two 1 yd pieces of cord and attach them directly beneath each tie just made, leaving a 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;3" tail. Holding tail and strap tog, wrap each cord around tail and strap for 1" until wrap meets base of chs, then wrap the cord back down to meet tail of cords. Tie tails tog and weave tails up wrap to secure. Trim excess cord.

Button Using smaller hook, ch 4, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 10 hdc in ring, sl st in top of beg ch-2. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using tapestry needle, *wrap yarn from button tail around stitch and insert through center of button ring; rep from * around until stitches are completely covered, rep from * once more and cut tail to match tail from starting ch of bottom.

Assembly Attach button about 2" down on center front of bag by pulling tails behind button on either side of center hdc and knotting ends together on WS of bag. Weave in ends.

Closure Cut four 1 yd pieces of cord. With all 4 pieces held tog and smaller hook, pull pieces through back of bag about 1½" down from top. Pull pieces through bag until all tail ends are even. Tie tail ends tog at top of bag. Use 2 pieces to wrap upward around other 2 pieces for about 1" and then back down toward bag. Tie 2 wrapped pieces tog around wrap and weave ends up into wrap. Trim any excess cord. Create a slipknot as close to wrap as possible. Using smaller hook, ch 5 with rem 2 pieces of cord. Fasten off. Bring tail to meet fasten-off point and create a slip st for button closure. Weave rem cord into chs to secure and trim any excess cord. íˇ&#x20AC;

ASHLYN HOLMES is an environmental scientist from south Louisiana, where she lives with her husband and two dogs. She has been crocheting for more than a decade and aims to design simple, beautiful pieces for the modern crocheter. When sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not working or designing, she enjoys gardening, spending time in nature, and nourishing her friends and family with good food and lots of love. Find her online at www .shirleyandeadie.blogspot.com.


, Dear BFF lot. That through a en be tage. We’ve aining s potty tr ng si as n i gs. embarr iding th ek. Me h e s d n QGP\ a Hide QGLQJ$ 1HYHUº  J Q L N H through H <RXV uirrels asing sq h C ? e t i n u ning favor d. You r or’s yar b h g i ace. e n the grumpy f ing your k a m , d n behi  XWODWHO\ OGGD\V% R RG  W JR ± Q H XUHGR $K7K G$QG,V RO V L HO m ng. I’ DOO,IH g anythi . e chasin nt to play wa feel lik I don’t . re so d ter? tired an feel bet help me Can you

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Sweet Summer

Lace Vintage-inspired lace worked into modern projects

34

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2018


Yesteryear Top by Mimi Alelis This unique top features a lace design adapted from a vintage collar thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been transformed into a light top worked from top to bottom with a circular yoke. It has a loose it and is styled as a crop top, but the length is easily adjustable; just add more rounds to the bottom. YARN Nazli Gelin Garden 10, distributed by Universal Yarn. PAGE 38.

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ www.interweave.com

35


36

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018


Sweet Summer

Time-Honored Sweater by Natasha Robarge Cables and mesh combine to create the perfect sweater for cool summer nights. Its open stitchwork lets in the summer breeze and adds style to any outit. YARN Manos del Uruguay Milo, distributed by Fairmount Fibers. PAGE 44.

Lace

OPPOSITE PAGE: Ever-New Skirt by Kristin Lynn This eye-catching skirt skims your shape and shows off your curves. Wear it relaxed and low at the hips or at your natural waist by cinching the drawstring for a tighter it. YARN Omega Eulali, distributed by Creative Yarn Source. PAGE 41.

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ www.interweave.com

37


Sweet Summer Lace

Row 1: (RS) [Ch 4, dc in 4th ch from hook] 56 (56, 63, 63, 70) times, rotate band to cont along dc edge. Rnd 2: (RS) Working along dc edge of last row, [ch 3, sl st in same ch as dc] across, sl st in first dc at opposite end of row to join, being careful not to twist band. Rnd 3: Ch 1, [4 sc in next ch-3 sp] around, sl st in first sc to join—224 (224, 252, 252, 280) sc.

Lace yoke:

Yesteryear Top Mimi Alelis

PLUS SIZE Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 34 (38¾, 41¼, 46, 51)" bust circumference. Sample shown measures 34", modeled with 2" positive ease. YARN Nazli Gelin Garden 10 (distributed by Universal Yarn) (100% mercerized Egyptian Giza cotton; 306 yd [280 m]/1.76 oz [50 g]; ): #700-08 (natural), 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) balls. HOOK Size B/1 (2.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Stitch markers (m); yarn needle. GAUGE 33 sts and 18 rows = 4" in (4 dc, ch 1) or (4 dc, ch 2) body patt. See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Top is worked from the neckband down. Yoke is worked in joined rounds without turning, separated at the chest for a deeper armhole, then rejoined and worked in joined rnds without turning from the underarm down to hem. When instructed to work in V-stitch, work in chain-2 space of V-stitch unless otherwise stated.

Stitch Guide V-stitch (V-st): (Dc, ch 2, dc) in indicated st or sp. Cluster (cl): [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

Pattern NECKBAND: Note: Neckband is worked with RS facing at all times.

38

Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

Note: Yoke is worked in joined rnds without turning. Rnd 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1 throughout), *sk next sc, dc in next sc, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—112 (112, 126, 126, 140) dc and ch-1. Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2 throughout), *dc in next dc, dc in next ch, dc in next dc, ch 5, sk next (3 ch and 2 dc), dc in next dc, dc in next ch, dc in next dc, ch 2**, dc in next dc, ch 2; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join—16 (16, 18, 18, 20) patt reps. Rnd 3: Ch 5, *dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, cl (see Stitch Guide) in 3rd ch of next ch 5, ch 2, dc

in next 3 dc, ch 2**, dc in next dc, ch 2; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Rnd 4: Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3), *dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in next 2 ch-2 sps, ch 2, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3**, dc in next dc, ch 3; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-6 to join. Rnd 5: Ch 5, dc in same st, *ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, dc bet next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3**, V-st (see Stitch Guide) in next dc, ch 3; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Rnd 6: Ch 5, V-st in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc, *ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3**, dc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next V-st (see Notes), ch 2, dc in next dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Rnd 7: Ch 5, dc in next dc, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, [ch 2, dc in next dc] 2 times, *ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3**, [dc in next dc, ch 2] 2 times, V-st in next V-st, [ch 2, dc in next dc] 2 times; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join.


3 dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 10: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *[ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp] 6 times, ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1**, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 11: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2**, dc in next 3 dc; rep

F

from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 12: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2**, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 13: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3,

Measurements:

E yoke height

A bust circumference

5" 12.5 cm

34 (38¾, 41¼, 46, 51)" 86.5 (98.5, 105, 117, 128.5) cm

F neck circumference E

B hem circumference body G

D

24 (24, 27, 27, 30)" 61 (61, 68.5, 68.5, 76) cm

40¾ (46½, 48½, 55¼, 61)" 103.5 (118, 123, 140.5, 155) cm

G sleeve circumference C hem to underarm

C A

B

14¾ (15, 15¼, 15½, 16½)" 37.5 (38, 38.5, 39.5, 42) cm

7¾ (7¾, 9½, 9½, 10½)" 19.5 (19.5, 24, 24, 26.5) cm D underarm to yoke

1¼ (1¼, 1½, 1½, 1½)" 3.2, (3.2, 3.8, 3.8, 3.8) cm

Reduced yoke patt <17

<16

<15

<14

<13

<12

<11 <10 <9 <8 <7 <6 <5

<4

<3

<2

Stitch Key <1 <3 <2

neckband

1>

= slip stitch (sl st) = chain (ch) = single crochet (sc) = double crochet (dc) = cluster (cl)

Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

39

Sweet Summer Lace

Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, *ch 2, dc in next dc, 5 dc in next V-st, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 3, [dc2tog] 3 times, skipping ch-1 sp for 2nd dc2tog, ch 3**, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 9: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *ch 3, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 6 times, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, dc3tog, ch 3**, dc in next


Sweet Summer Lace dc in next dc, ch 3**, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 14: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] 2 times, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, V-st in next dc, ch 2, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2**, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 15: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, [ch 2, V-st in next dc] 2 times, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2**, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 16: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, V-st in next dc, ch 1, 3 dc in next V-st, ch 2, 3 dc in next V-st, ch 1, sk next dc, V-st in next dc, ch 2**, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 17: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *ch 2, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in next V-st, sk next dc, [ch 2, dc in next 3 dc] 2 times, ch 2, 3 dc in next V-st, ch 2**, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;96 (96, 108, 108, 120) 3-dc groups.

Divide for body and sleeves: Sizes 34 (41¼, 51)" only: Do not fasten off. Count 26 (32, 38) 3-dc groups for front and pm in last dc, count 22 3-dc groups for sleeve, pm, count 26 (32, 38) 3-dc groups for back, pm, and 22 3-dc groups for the other sleeve.

40

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018

Sizes 38¾ (46)" only: Fasten off. Sl st in first dc of next 3-dc group to right of where fastened off. Count 28 (38) 3-dc groups for front and pm in last dc, count 20 3-dc groups for sleeve, pm, count 28 (38) 3-dc groups for back, pm, and 20 3-dc groups for the other sleeve.

All sizes: Rnd 18: Ch 3, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, *[ch 1, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc] across to m, ch 2, sc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc, [ch 1, sc in next ch-sp, ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc] across to m, ch 2, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc; rep from * for back and 2nd sleeve, ch 2, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Cont working in rows.

Front: Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, [ch 1, dc in next 4 dc] across front, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;26 (28, 32, 34, 38) 4-dc groups. Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4 (4, 6, 6, 6): Rep Row 1. Fasten off at end of last row.

Back: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in first dc on back. Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, [ch 1, dc in next 4 dc] across back, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;26 (28, 32, 34, 38) 4-dc groups. Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4 (4, 6, 6, 6): Rep Row 1. Do not fasten off at end of last row.

Join for lower body: Cont working in joined rnds without turning. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, [ch 1, dc in next 4 dc] across back, ch 8 (16, 8, 16, 16)

for underarm, dc in next 4 dc on front, [ch 1, dc in next 4 dc] across front, ch 8 (16, 8, 16, 16) for 2nd underarm, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, [ch 1, dc in next 4 dc] across back, [ch 1, dc in next 4 ch] 2 (4, 2, 4, 4) times, [ch 1, dc in next 4 dc] across front, [ch 1, dc in next 4 ch] 2 (4, 2, 4, 4) times, ch 1, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 1] around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;56 (64, 68, 76, 84) 4-dc groups. Rnds 4â&#x20AC;&#x201C;13 (13, 15, 17, 19): Rep Rnd 3. Rnd 14 (14, 16, 18, 20): Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 2] around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;56 (64, 68, 76, 84) 4-dc groups. Rnds 15 (15, 17, 19, 21)â&#x20AC;&#x201C;35 (35, 43, 43, 47): Rep Rnd 14.

Hem edging: Last rnd: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, sk next 2 dc, (sl st, ch 3, dc) in next dc, sk next 2 ch, *(sl st, ch 3, dc) in next dc, sk next 2 dc, (sl st, ch 3, dc) in next dc, sk next 2 ch; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block. í·&#x20AC;

MIMI ALELIS is an avid crafter and crochet designer. She typically designs wearable items using cotton thread. She also makes toys and home décor for family and friends. Find her on Instagram @mimicat18 and get free patterns and crochet inspiration from her blog at www .mycrochetstuff.blogspot.com.


Kristin Lynn

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 28½ (31, 35½, 39½, 44)" waist circumference; 32½ (35½, 39½, 44, 48)" hip circumference. Sample shown measures 28½" waist circumference, modeled with 3½" positive ease. YARN Omega Eulali (distributed by Creative Yarn Source) (100% cotton; ): #18 394 yd [360 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; cream, 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) balls. HOOK Sizes D/3 (3.25 mm) and E/4 (3.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle; stitch markers. GAUGE 6 shells and 13 rows = 4¼" with smaller hook.

next sc, ch 1**, V-st in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch-3 to join.

Shell patt I (multiple of 8 sts)

Rnd 1: (Sl st, beg V-st) in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, V-st in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around, ch 1, sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 2: (Sl st, beg sh) in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, V-st in next V-st, ch 1**, sh in next V-st; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch-2 to join. Rnd 3: Sl st in next dc, (sl st, beg sh) in first sh, *ch 4, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ch 4, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join. Rnd 4: Sl st in next dc, (sl st, beg sh) in first sh, *ch 2, spike sc in ch-1 sp of V-st 2 rnds below, ch 2**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join. Rnd 5: Sl st in next dc, (sl st, beg sh) in first sh, *ch 5, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ch 5, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join. Rnd 6: Sl st in next dc, (sl st, beg sh) in first sh, *ch 4, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ch 4, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join. Rnd 7: Sl st in next dc, (sl st, beg sh) in first sh, *ch 2, spike sc in ch-5 sp 2 rnds below, ch 2**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join.

Foundation rnd: With smaller hook, fsc 56 for swatch, sl st in first fsc to join. Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same fsc as join and in each rem fsc around, sl st in first fsc to join. Rnd 2: Beg sh (see above) in same st as join, *sk next 3 sts, sh (see above) in next st; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join. Rnd 3: Sl st in next dc, (sl st, beg sh) in first sh (see Notes), *ch 4, sk next sh**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join. Rnd 4: Sl st in next dc, (sl st, beg sh) in first sh, *ch 2, spike sc (see above) in ch-1 sp of sh 2 rows below, ch 2**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join. Rnd 5: Sl st in next dc, (sl st, beg sh) in first sh, *ch 5, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ch 5, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join. Rnd 6: Sl st in next dc, (sl st, beg sh) in first sh, *ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join. Rnd 7: Sl st in next dc, (sl st, beg V-st [see above]) in first sh, *ch 1, V-st (see above) in

Shell patt II

See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes The skirt is worked top down in joined, unturned rounds, then finished with a top edging and crocheted drawstring. The first shell of each round counts as the center back shell. When instructed to work in shell or V-stitch, work in chain-1 space unless otherwise stated.

Stitch Guide Beginning shell (beg sh): (Ch 2 [counts as dc], dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated st or sp. Shell (sh): (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated st or sp. Beginning V-stitch (beg V-st): (Ch 3 [counts as dc, ch 1], dc) in indicated st or sp. V-stitch (V-st): (Dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp. Spike single crochet (spike sc): Working over ch from last rnd, sc in indicated st or sp 2 rnds below.

Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

41

Sweet Summer Lace

Ever-New Skirt

Extended single crochet V-stitch (esc V-st): (Esc, ch 1, esc) in indicated st or sp. Fan: ([Dc, ch 1] 2 times, dc) in indicated st or sp.


Sweet Summer Lace

Shell patt I

Shell patt II <7

<7

<6

<6

<5

<5

<4

<4

<3

<3

<2

<2

<1 < foundation

<1

Stitch Key

Measurements: A hem circumference

C

= chain (ch)

36¾ (39½, 44, 48, 52½)" 93.5 (100.5, 112, 122, 133.5) cm

D

=slip stitch (sl st)

B length 36" 91.5 cm

= single crochet (sc) = spike single crochet (spike sc) B = beg sh

C waist circumference

28¼ (31, 35½, 39½, 44)" 72 (79, 90, 99, 112) cm

= sh

D hip circumference

32½ (35½, 39½, 44, 48)" 81.5 (90, 100.5, 112, 122) cm

= beg V-st = V-st A

42

Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018


Foundation row: With smaller hook, fsc 160 (176, 200, 224, 248), being careful not to twist, sl st in first st to join. Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same fsc as join and in each rem fsc across, sl st in first fsc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;160 (176, 200, 224, 248) sc. Rnds 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7: Work Rnds 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7 of shell patt Iâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;40 (44, 50, 56, 62) V-sts at end of last rnd. Rnd 8 (inc): Esc in first dc, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 9 (9, 11, 13, 15) times, [ch 1, esc V-st (see Stitch Guide) in next dc] 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 18 (22, 24, 26, 28) times across side, [ch 1, esc V-st in next dc] 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 18 (18, 22, 26, 30) times across center front, [ch 1, esc V-st in next dc] 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 18 (22, 24, 26, 28) times across side, [ch 1, esc V-st in next dc] 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 8 (8, 10, 12, 14) times, ch 1, sl st in beg esc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;80 (80, 100, 112, 124) esc, 8 esc V-sts. Rnd 9: Ch 5 (counts as tr, ch 1 throughout), *tr in next esc, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in 4th ch of beg ch-5 to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;88 (96, 108, 120, 132) tr. Rnd 10 (inc): Esc in first tr, [ch 1, esc in next tr] 11 (11, 13, 15, 17) times, ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, esc in next tr] 22 (26, 28, 30, 32) times across side, ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, esc in next tr] 22 (22, 26, 30, 34) times across center front, ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, esc in next tr] 22 (26, 28, 30, 32) times across side, ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, esc in next tr] 10 (10, 12, 14, 16) times, ch 1, sl st in beg esc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;92 (100, 112, 124, 136) esc. Rnd 11: Work Row 1 of shell patt IIâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;46 (50, 56, 62, 68) V-sts. Rnd 12: Sl st in first V-st, beg sh in same V-st, *sh in next V-st; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;46 (50, 56, 62, 68) shs. Rnds 13â&#x20AC;&#x201C;17: Work Rnds 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7 of shell patt Iâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;46 (50, 56, 62, 68) V-sts at end of last rnd. Rnd 18 (inc): Esc in first dc, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 9 (9, 11, 13, 15) times, [ch 1, esc V-st in next dc] 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 24 (28, 30, 32, 34) times across side, [ch 1, esc V-st in next dc] 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 18 (18, 22, 26, 30) times across center front, (ch 1, esc V-st in next dc) 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 24 (28, 30, 32, 34) times across side, [ch 1, esc V-st in next dc] 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 8 (8, 10, 12, 14) times, ch 1, sl st in beg esc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;92 (100, 112, 124, 136) esc, 8 esc V-sts. Rnd 19: Rep Rnd 9â&#x20AC;&#x201D;100 (108, 120, 132, 144) tr. Rnd 20 (inc): Esc in first tr, [ch 1, esc in next tr] 11 (11, 13, 15, 17) times, ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, esc in next tr] 28 (32, 34, 36, 38) times across side, ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, esc in next tr] 22 (22, 26, 30, 34) times across front, ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, esc in next tr] 28 (32, 34, 36, 38) times across side, ch 1, esc in next ch-1

Sweet Summer Lace

Pattern WAISTBAND

sp, [ch 1, esc in next tr] 10 (10, 12, 14, 16) times, ch 1, sl st in beg esc of rnd to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; 104 (112, 124, 136, 148) esc. Rnds 21â&#x20AC;&#x201C;22: Rep Rnds 11â&#x20AC;&#x201C;12â&#x20AC;&#x201D;52 (56, 62, 68, 74) shs. Rnds 23â&#x20AC;&#x201C;27: Work Rnds 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7 of shell patt Iâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;52 (56, 62, 68, 74) V-sts. Rnd 28 (inc): Esc in first dc, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 9 (9, 11, 13, 15) times, [ch 1, esc V-st in next dc] 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 30 (34, 36, 38, 40) times across side, [ch 1, esc V-st in next dc] 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 18 (18, 22, 26, 30) times across center front, [ch 1, esc V-st in next dc] 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 30 (34, 36, 38, 40) times across other side, [ch 1, esc V-st in next dc] 2 times, [ch 1, esc in next dc] 8 (8, 10, 12, 14) times, ch 1, sl st in beg esc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;112 (120, 132, 144, 156) esc. Rnd 29: Ch 5, *tr in next esc, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in first tr to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;112 (120, 132, 144, 156) tr. Rnd 30: Esc in first tr, *ch 1, esc in next tr; rep from * around, ch 1, sl st in beg esc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;112 (120, 132, 144, 156) esc. Rnds 31â&#x20AC;&#x201C;34: Rep Rnds 29â&#x20AC;&#x201C;30 two times. Rnds 35â&#x20AC;&#x201C;41: Work Rows 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7 of shell patt IIâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;28 (30, 33, 36, 39) shs, 28 (30, 33, 36, 39) spike sc. Rnds 42â&#x20AC;&#x201C;44: Rep Rnds 39â&#x20AC;&#x201C;41. Rnd 45: Rep Rnd 39. Rnds 46â&#x20AC;&#x201C;47: Work Rnds 6â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7 of shell patt Iâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;56 (60, 66, 72, 78) V-sts at end of last row. Rnd 48: Esc in first dc, *ch 1, esc in next dc; rep from * around, ch 1, sl st in beg esc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;112 (120, 132, 144, 156) esc. Rnds 49â&#x20AC;&#x201C;68: Rep Rnds 29â&#x20AC;&#x201C;48. Rnds 69â&#x20AC;&#x201C;81: With larger hook, rep Rnds 29â&#x20AC;&#x201C;41.

Rnds 82â&#x20AC;&#x201C;93: Rep Rnds 39â&#x20AC;&#x201C;41 four times. Rnd 94: Ch 3 (counts as dc), (ch 1, dc) 4 times in first sh (counts as first fan), *ch 2, sc in next sc, ch 2**, fan (see Stitch Guide) in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING With tail from foundation ch, sew first and last fsc tog. Weave in ends. With smaller hook and RS facing, join yarn to top of waistband at center back, sl st in free lps of fsc rnd. Rnd 1: Ch 1, hdc in same st as join, *ch 1, sk next st, hdc in next st; rep from * across, ch 1, sl st in first hdc to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;80 (88, 100, 112, 124) hdc. Rnd 2: *Ch 2, sl st in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across. Fasten off. Weave in ends and block to finished measurements.

Drawstring With smaller hook, ch 2, working in back ridge lp, (2 sc, sl st) in 2nd ch from hook, place marker (pm) in rem lps of 2nd ch, ch 1. Keeping gauge relaxed, chain about 48 (52, 57, 62, 66)" long, working in back ridge lps, (2 sc, sl st) in 2nd ch from hook, sl st across to marked ch, sl st in marked ch. Fasten off and weave in ends. Weave the drawstring through the ch-1 sps of the waistband. íˇ&#x20AC;

KRISTIN LYNN is a native Californian and longtime New Yorker who has been involved with various arts for most of her life. She has a fondness for crocheted lace and is passionate about color. Find her on Ravelry as Kristin Lynn.

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ www.interweave.com

43


Sweet Summer Lace

Notes Sweater is worked from the bottom up in pieces and seamed.

Stitch Guide Front post quintuple crochet (FPqc): Yo 5 times, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated st, yo, pull up lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 6 times. Back post quintuple crochet (BPqc): Yo 5 times, insert hook from back to front to back around post of indicated st, yo, pull up lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 6 times.

Swatch (multiple of 26 sts + 1) for cable patt + 10 filet sts + 4 tch

Time-Honored Sweater

Ch 67. Work as for back for smallest size, repeating from * only once for a 2 cable patt rep. Rep Rows 2–13 for patt.

Natasha Robarge

Pattern PANELS

PLUS SIZE Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 38 (43, 46, 51, 54)" bust circumference. Sample shown measures 38", modeled with 5½" positive ease. YARN Manos del Uruguay Milo (distributed by Fairmount Fibers) (65% wool, 35% linen; 380 yd [350 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): natural, 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) skeins. HOOK Size F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle; stitch marker (m), 6. GAUGE 20 sts and 8½ rows in ilet patt = 4"; 1 cable patt rep (26 sts and 12 rows) = 4¼" wide and 6" tall; blocked. See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

44

Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

Back Ch 119 (131, 139, 151, 159). Set-up row: (WS) Tr in 6th ch from hook (skipped ch count as 1 foundation ch, tr), [ch 1, sk next ch, tr in next ch] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *ch 1, sk next ch, tr in next 3 ch, ch 4, sk next 3 ch, sc in next 11 ch, ch 4, sk next 3 ch, tr in next 3 ch, ch 1, sk next ch, tr in next ch; rep from * 3 times, [ch 1, sk next ch, tr in next ch] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, tr in last ch, turn—4 patt reps. Row 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), [dc in next tr, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next tr, ch 2, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 9 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 2; rep from * 3 times, dc in next tr, [ch 1, dc in next tr] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch, turn. Row 2: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next dc, ch 3, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 7 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 3;

rep from * 3 times, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next dc, ch 5, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5; rep from * 3 times, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in next dc, *ch 2, tr in same dc, ch 6, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 6, tr in next dc, ch 2, dc in same dc; rep from * 3 times, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next tr, ch 5, sk next 3-tr group, FPqc (see Stitch Guide) around next 3 tr, ch 13, working in front of FPqc just made, FPqc around 3 skipped tr, ch 5, sc in next tr, ch 3; rep from * 3 times, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first dc, [sc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *sc in next dc, ch 5, BPtr around next 3 FPqc, ch 5, 3 sc in next ch-13 sp, ch 5, BPtr around next 3 FPqc, ch 5; rep from * 3 times, sc in next dc, [ch 1, sc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, sc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 7: Ch 3, [dc in next sc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next sc, ch 3, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 3; rep from * 3 times, dc in next sc, [ch 1, dc in next sc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in last sc, turn. Row 8: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next dc, ch 2, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 2; rep from * 3 times, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 9: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next dc, ch 1, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 4, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 1; rep from * 3 times, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 10: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in next dc, *BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in next 9 sc, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, BPtr around next 3 tr**, ch 1; rep from * 3 times, ending last rep at **, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 11: Ch 3, [dc in next sc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in next dc, *FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, sk next 5 sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 4, FPtr around next 3 tr**, ch 1; rep from * 3 times, ending last rep at **, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn.


Sweet Summer Lace

D

E H

Measurements:

C

A bust width sleeve

B

front & back

19 (21½, 23, 25½, 27)" 48.5 (54.5, 58.5, 65, 68.5) cm

G

B hem to front neck

17" 43 cm C neck depth

F

5¾" 14.5 cm

A

D shoulder width

Reduced main body cable patt

6 (7¼, 8, 9¼, 10)" 15 (18.5, 20.5, 23.5, 25.5) cm < 21

E neck width

20 > < 19

7" 18 cm

< 17

F cuff width

18 >

16 > < 15

10¼ (11, 11¾, 12½, 13½)" 26 (28, 30, 31.5, 34.5) cm G sleeve length

14 > < 13

16½" 42 cm

12 > < 11

rep for patt

10 >

H upper sleeve width

15¼ (16, 16¾, 17½, 18½)" 38.5 (40.5, 42.5, 44.5, 47) cm

<9 8> <7 6>

Symbol Key

<5

= chain (ch) = single crochet (sc)

4> <3

= BPtr

= double crochet (dc)

2>

= treble crochet (tr)

= FPqc

<1

= FPtr set-up row >

26-st patt rep

Row 12: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in next dc, *ch 1, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next 3 sc, 5 sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 3 sc, ch 4, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 1**, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 3 times, ending last rep at **, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 13: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next dc, ch 2, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 9 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, FPtr around next 3 tr,

ch 2; rep from * 3 times, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Rows 14–45: Rep Rows 2–13 two times, then rep Rows 2–9 once more. Place marker (pm) in center dc and dc one patt rep to the right and to the left to mark neck. Row 46: (WS) Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in next dc, *BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 3, sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in next 9 sc, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 3, sk next 3-tr group before m, sk m, BPqc around

next 3 tr, ch 3, working behind BPqc just made, BPqc around skipped 3 tr, ch 3, sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in next 9 sc, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 3, sc in next 3 tr, ch 1, sc in next 3 tr, ch 3, sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in next 9 sc, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 3, sk next 3-tr group, BPqc around next 3 tr, ch 3, working in front of BPqc just made, BPqc around skipped 3 tr, ch 3, sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in next 9 sc, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 3, BPtr around next 3 tr, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3. Fasten off.

Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

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Sweet Summer Lace

Front Work as for back through Row 10 of 3rd patt rep.

SEPARATE FOR NECK: Place marker on center ch.

Left shoulder: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in next dc, *FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, sk next 5 sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 4, FPtr around next 3 tr**, ch 1; rep from * once, ending rep at **, dc in marked ch-1 sp, turn. Row 2: Ch 3, *BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next 3 sc, 5 sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 3 sc, ch 4, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * once, working last dc in next dc and omitting next ch of the rep, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next dc, ch 2, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 9 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, FPtr around next 3 tr**, ch 2; rep from * once, ending rep at **, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, *BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 7 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 3, dc in next dc**, ch 3; rep from * once, ending rep at **, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next dc, ch 5, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, FPtr around next 3 tr**, ch 5; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 6: Ch 3, *BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 6, (tr, ch 2, dc, ch 2, tr) in next dc, ch 6, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 6, (tr, ch 2, dc) in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 7: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next tr, ch 5, sk next 3-tr group, FPqc around next 3 tr, ch 13, working in front of FPqc just made, FPqc around 3 skipped tr, ch 5, sc in next tr, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next tr, ch 5, sk next 3-tr group, FPqc around next 3 tr, ch 3, working behind FPqc just made, FPqc around 3 skipped tr, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 8: Sl st in next 3 FPqc and next 3 ch, ch 3, BPtr around next 3 FPqc, ch 5, sc in next dc, ch 5, BPtr around next 3 FPqc, ch 5, 3 sc in ch-13 sp, ch 5, BPtr around next 3 FPqc, ch 5, sc in next dc, [ch 1, sc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, sc in tch, turn. Row 9: Ch 3, [dc in next sc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next sc, ch 3, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, FPtr around next 3 tr, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 10: Ch 3, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 2, 46

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018

dc in next dc, ch 2, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 2, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 11: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in next dc, ch 1, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 4, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, FPtr around next 3 tr, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 12: Ch 3, sk next 3-tr group, BPqc around next 3 tr, ch 3, working behind BPqc just made, BPqc around skipped 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in next 9 sc, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, BPtr around next 3 tr, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Fasten off.

Right shoulder: Row 1: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in center marked st, ch 3, *FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, sk next 5 sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 4, FPtr around next 3 tr**, ch 1; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 2: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in next dc, *ch 1, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next 3 sc, 5 sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 3 sc, ch 4, BPtr around next 3 tr**, ch 1, dc in next ch; rep from *, ending last rep at **, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, *FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 9 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 2, dc in next dc**, ch 2; rep from * once, ending last rep **, [ch 1, dc

in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *dc in next dc, ch 3, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 7 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, BPtr around next 3 tr**, ch 3; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, *FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, dc in next dc**, ch 5; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 6: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, (dc, ch 2, tr) in next dc, ch 6, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 6, (tr, ch 2, dc, ch 2, tr) in next dc, ch 6, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, BPtr around next 3 tr, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 7: Ch 3, *sk next 3-tr group, FPqc in next 3 tr, ch 3, working in front of FPqc just made, FPqc around 3 skipped tr, ch 5, sc in next tr, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next tr, ch 5, sk next 3-tr group, FPqc around next 3 tr, ch 13, working in front of FPqc just made, FPqc around 3 skipped tr, ch 5, sc in next tr, ch 3, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 8: Ch 1, sc in first dc, [sc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, *sc in next dc, ch 5, BPtr around next 3 FPqc, ch 5, 3 sc in next ch-13 sp, ch 5, BPtr around next 3 FPqc, ch 5, sc in next dc, ch 5, BPtr around next 3 FPqc, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn.


Sleeves Ch 61 (65, 69, 73, 77). Set-up row: (WS) Tr in 6th ch from hook (skipped ch count as 1 foundation ch, tr), [ch 1, sk next ch, tr in next ch] 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) times, ch 1, sk next ch, tr in next 3 ch, ch 4, sk next 3 ch, sc in next 11 ch, ch 4, sk next 3 ch, tr in next 3 ch, ch 1, sk next ch, tr in next ch, [ch 1, sk next ch, tr in next ch] 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) times, tr in last ch, turn. Row 1: Ch 3, [dc in next tr, ch 1] 7 (8, 9, 10,

11) times, dc in next tr, ch 2, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sk next sc, sc in next 9 sc, ch 5, sk next sc, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 2, dc in next tr, [ch 1, dc in next tr] 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;34: Cont in patt with main body cable through Row 10 of 3rd patt rep and filet at each side of cable panel. At the same time, inc 5 times in every 6th row and then once in 4th row by working (dc, ch 1, dc) in 2nd dc from beg and end of row. Incorporate new sts in filet patt along left and right side of cable patt. Row 35: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] across to lace panel, dc in next dc, sk next tr, dc in next tr, sk next tr, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-4 sp, [ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc] 5 times, ch 1, sk next sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-4 sp, ch 1, sk next tr, dc in next tr, ch 1, sk next tr, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] across, dc in top of beg ch-3. Fasten off.

FINISHING Assembly SEAM FIRST SHOULDER: Holding back and front shoulders tog with back closer to you, working through both thicknesses from shoulder side toward neck, sl st in first st at edge of shoulders, ch 1, sc in first dc, [sc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, sc in next dc, sc in each tr across, 2 sc in next ch-3 sps, sc in next 3 sc, working in back only, sl st in next 5 sc, working through both thicknesses, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next ch-3 sps, sc in each tr across, sc in top of beg ch and in last dc. Fasten off.

SEAM SECOND SHOULDER: Holding back and front shoulders tog with back closer to you, working through both thicknesses from neck edge to shoulder, sl st in first st at edge of neck, ch 1, sc in first dc, sc in each tr across, 2 sc in next ch-3 sps, sc in next 3 sc, working in back only, sl st in next 5 sc, working through both thicknesses, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next ch-3 sps, sc in each tr across, sc in next dc, [ch 1, sc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, sc in top of beg ch and in last dc. Fasten off.

Neck edging: (RS) Sl st in seam to join, sc evenly around. Match center of upper sleeve to shoulder seam, sew sleeve to body, then sew sleeve and side seams.

Sleeve and hem edging: (RS) Sl st in 1 tr before seam to join, ch 4, sk seam, dc in next tr, [ch 1, dc in next tr] around to lace panel, *ch 1, dc in first tr of next 3-tr group, ch 1, sk next tr, dc in next tr, ch 1, dc in next ch-4 sp, [ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc] 5 times, ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 1, dc in next tr, ch 1, sk next tr, dc in next tr, ch 1, dc in next tr; rep from * 3 times for front and back and 0 times for sleeves, [ch 1, dc in next tr] around, skipping seam to next lace panel; rep from * to end of round, ch 1, sl st in top of 3rd tch. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block. í·&#x20AC;

NATASHA ROBARGE is an avid crocheter and knitter. Her crochet designs appear in Interweave Crochet, Love of Crochet, and other publications. She lives in Houston and strives to create fun and functional crochet garments.

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ www.interweave.com

47

Sweet Summer Lace

Row 9: Ch 3, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 3, dc in next sc, [ch 1, dc in next sc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in last sc, turn. Row 10: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in next dc, ch 2, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, BPtr around next 3 tr, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 11: Ch 3, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 4, FPtr around next 3 tr, ch 1, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 12: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 (5, 7, 10, 12) times, dc in next dc, BPtr around next 3 tr, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in next 9 sc, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sk next 3-tr group, BPqc around next 3 tr, ch 3, working in front of BPqc just made, BPqc around 3 skipped tr, dc in top of beg ch-3. Fasten off.


feature

Photos by George Boe

LOVABLE, WEARABLE COTTON A Spinner Explains the Magic of Crochet Thread Anne Merrow

Understanding what makes your yarn do what it does is the first step toward a happy yarn/project pairing. As a handspinner, I love thinking about yarn. Even though I didn’t spin the yarn for the projects in this issue I can share a bit about what makes crochet cotton thread perfect for certain projects. YARN = FIBER + TWIST Almost all yarn is made by twisting ibers until they don’t drift apart. What yarn is made of and how it is twisted determine almost everything about it.

COTTON FIBERS Most cotton used for thread is mercerized. he mercerization process, which makes cotton thread more lustrous, involves immersing the yarn in a caustic bath followed by an acid bath. In some cases, the thread is singed or gassed to remove stray ibers and smooth the surface. Pearl (or perle) and shiny cotton yarns are mercerized; matte yarns are unmercerized. In addition to 48

Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

making the thread smoother and more lustrous, mercerizing makes the cotton more dye receptive. Of the yarns at right, only one (DMC Natura Just Cotton) is not mercerized. Cotton ibers lack crimp (unlike wool), which means that they don’t spring back; rather, they stretch out—until they’re washed and dried again. When iber is processed into yarn, the ibers get stretched out; when the inished piece is washed and dried, it may shrink up.

Pima cotton is named for the Pima Native Americans of the American Southwest.


Cotton is in the mallow family, closely related to hibiscus, and produces beautiful lowers. TWIST! Cotton iber is easy to pull apart (imagine a cotton ball), but plied yarnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;yarn with two or more strands twisted togetherâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;can be diicult to break. One rule of thumb is that more layers of twist make yarn stronger. Cotton thread is typically made up of ine strands plied together. Crochet thread is hard to break by hand, but 8/2 weaving cotton (8 is the size of the ply and 2 is the number of plies) is about the same weight and snaps easily. Because cotton ibers are very short and ine, they require tight twist to hold together. To make thicker cotton thread without pilling, manufacturers often combine more thin strands rather than simply making thicker strands. In most cases, twist applied in one direction is balanced with twist in the opposite direction by plying. his will be familiar if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever twisted fringe or made a twisted cord; the fringe stops twisting when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s countered with opposite twist. he twist that keeps the ibers tucked in also keeps the plies together and makes them diicult to split with a crochet hook. Twist also tends to make yarn harder and stifer.

Most of the cotton we use is white, but cotton grows in natural colors from tan to brown and even green.

In cabled yarns, such as Omega Eulali, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s yet another layer of twist when plied yarns are essentially plied again in the opposite direction. his makes them very stable; notice how the Eulali didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t kink up when washed, because its twist is well-balanced. Sometimes plied yarns can be twisted together in the same direction as plying, as in DMC Natura Just Cotton, which makes them relatively easy to untwist.

Cotton fiber is called lint.

After washing, dormant twist in the thread reveals itself. Some threads twist to the left and some to the right, and some twist more than others. From left, Omega Eulali, Scheepjes Catona, Handy Hands Lizbeth 10, Aunt Lydiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Classic Crochet Size 10, DMC Natura Just Cotton, Circulo Anne.

Although cotton yarns may hang loose when you use them, many of them have twist that has gone to sleep. When you tie a length and dampen it, any extra twist wakes up again (as you can see in the top photo at left). hat excess twist energy makes the yarn want to kink up when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re using itâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;just as when you turn around and around on a swing, the twist energy wants to push you back in the other direction. Tightly twisted yarns make for great stitch deinition. íˇ&#x20AC; Our sister magazine Spin Off covers fiber, twist, and handspinning yarn for crochet and other crafts. To learn more about cotton yarn and all its variations, visit www.interweave.com/spinning.

Each of these yarns comprises a different number and arrangement of plies. Very tightly twisted threads such as Handy Hands Lizbeth and Aunt Lydiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s are dificult to split with a hook.

ANNE MERROW is the editor of Spin Off. She tells anyone who will listen that twist is magic glue.

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ www.interweave.com

49


midsummer

Maritime Projects with a vintage nautical twist

Coastal Tunic by Alla Koval Make this beautiful tunic in an open lace peacock pattern. Wear it with the tassels at the front or the backâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;however it its best over your favorite swimsuit. YARN DMC Natura Just Cotton. PAGE 60.

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Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2018


Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ www.interweave.com

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Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018


Seafaring Shorts by Jane Howorth Flash back to the French Riviera during the Jazz Age with these nautical-inspired shorts. The open lace patterning conveys class and sophistication, and the side buttons and drawstring allow for the perfect it. YARN Scheepjes Catona. PAGE 66. OPPOSITE PAGE: Aquatic Swimsuit by Isa Catepillรกn Inspired by an island in Greece, this swimsuit has a flattering style that will suit most body shapes. Highwaisted bottoms with a delicate motif and a comfortable sport-like top create the perfect bathing suit for a summer afternoon relaxing at the beach, a pool party, or your own backyard. YARN Circulo Yarns Anne, distributed by Plymouth Yarn. PAGE 63.

Interweave Crochet โ€ข www.interweave.com

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Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018


Cruising Wrap by Arica Presinal This lacy wrap is inspired by high tides, windy days, and the misty breeze that blows off the Paciic Ocean. Stitch this beautiful lace wrap to keep you warm on your ocean cruising adventures this summer. YARN Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. PAGE 70. OPPOSITE PAGE: Saltwater Top by Natasha Robarge Wide-angled ribbing and tall lace stripes create an attractive contrast in fabric and shape in this cute summer top. The stripes call to mind a nautical style, and the unique shaping of the ribbing its perfectly with vintage-inspired high-waisted pants. YARN Cascade Yarns Hampton. PAGE 68.

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ www.interweave.com

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Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018


Sailorly Tote by Lexi Nelson Crocheted with fun yarn and featuring a rustic leather strap, this oversized tote is the stylish solution to stashing all your gear, whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re headed to the beach or a bistro. Include tassels at the bottom for a boho look. YARN Bernat Maker Home Dec. PAGE 73. OPPOSITE PAGE: Going Ashore Shawl by Sharon Ballsmith Perfect for keeping the sea breeze at bay, this classic shawl has a nautical look. It features bold stripes of navy and cream with a dash of gold at the center top edge and along the bottom, before the ribbed border. YARN Sugar Bush Yarns Itty-Bitty. PAGE 72.

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ www.interweave.com

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Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018


Pelagic Cover-Up by Laurie Sand A simple rectangle of crocheted lace becomes a light and whimsical cover-up for a day at the beach. Simply wrap it from arm to arm to create a cute swimsuit cover-up, wind it around your waist to create a basic skirt, or lay it flat on the sand to create a place to rest at the beach. YARN Aunt Lydiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Crochet Thread Classic 10, distributed by Coats and Clark. PAGE 75. OPPOSITE PAGE: Heart of the Sea Keychain by Beth Ann Hulevitch Show your love of travel wherever you go with these darling hearts. Created with single crochet stitches, these keychains are easy to personalize with your favorite colors and stripe patterns. YARN Lizbeth Size 10 Thread, distributed by Handy Hands. PAGE 75.

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ www.interweave.com

59


Midsummer Maritime

Coastal Tunic Alla Koval

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 30 (37½, 45)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 30", modeled with 2" negative ease. YARN DMC Natura Just Cotton (100% cotton; 170 yd [155 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #86 brique, 4 (5, 7) balls. HOOK Size C/2 (2.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle; st markers (m), 7 (9, 11); 3½" cardboard square, 1. GAUGE 1 patt rep (26 sts and 14 rows) = 3¾" wide and 7" tall. See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Tunic is worked in one piece in turned rounds from hem up to armhole, then front and back are worked separately and shoulders are seamed. When told to work in shells, work in chain-3 spaces unless otherwise stated. Fabric is very stretchy and given measurements are with garment laid flat.

Stitch Guide Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook. Shell (sh): (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in indicated st or sp. Triple picot: (Picot, [ch 3, sl st in same ch as first picot] 2 times) in indicated st.

Pattern BODY Ch 26, [pm in last ch just made, ch 26] 7 (9, 11) times, sl st in first ch to join—208 (260, 312) ch.

60

Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3, dc (counts as first half of beg sh) in first ch, ch 12, sc in sp bet dc just made and next marked ch, ch 12, sh (see Stitch Guide) in marked ch, *ch 12, sc in sp bet sh just made and next marked ch, ch 12**, sh in marked ch; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in first ch (2nd half of beg sh), ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn—8 (10, 12) sh, 16 (20, 24) ch-12 sps; counts as 8 (10, 12) patt reps. Rnd 2: (WS) Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 10, sc in next ch-12 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-12 sp, ch 12**, sh in next sh (see Notes); rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 8, sc in next ch-10 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-10 sp, ch 8**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 7, sc in next ch-8 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 3, sc in next ch-8 sp, ch 7**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 6, sc in next ch-7 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 3, sc in next ch-7 sp, ch 6**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 6: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 6, sc in next ch-6 sp, [ch 1, picot (see Stitch Guide), ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 1, picot, ch 1, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 7: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 3, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 15, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 3**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 5, (sc, [ch 3, sc] 5 times) in next ch-15 sp, ch 5**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 9: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 6, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 6**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 10: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 7, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 7**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 11: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join,

*ch 8, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 8**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 12: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 10, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 10**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 13: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 12, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 12**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 14: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, ch 25, *sh in next sh, ch 25; rep from * around, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rnd 15: Ch 3, dc in sp formed by hdc join, *ch 12, sc in next ch-25 sp, ch 12**, sh in next sh; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in same sp as first dc made, ch 1, hdc in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rep Rnds 2–15 two times, then work Rnds 2–12 once more.

Back: Set-up row: (RS) Ch 3, sh in first sh, [ch 12, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 12, sh in next sh] 3 (4, 5) times, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—3 (4, 5) patt reps. Row 1: Ch 3, sh in first sh, [ch 25, sh in next sh] across, turn. Row 2: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 12, *sc in next ch-25 sp, ch 12, sh in next sh; rep * from across, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 10, sc in next ch-12 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-12 sp, ch 12, sh in next sh; rep from * across, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, sh in first sh, *ch 8, sc in next ch-10 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-10 sp, ch 10, sh in next sh; rep from * across, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, sh in first sh, *ch 7, sc in next ch-8 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 3, sc in next ch-8 sp, ch 7, sh in next sh; rep from * across, turn. Row 6: Ch 3, sh in first sh, *ch 6, sc in next ch-7 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 3, sc in next ch-7 sp, ch 6, sh in next sh; rep from * across, turn. Row 7: Ch 3, sh in first sh, *ch 6, sc in next ch-6 sp, [ch 1, picot, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 1, picot, ch 1, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, sh in next sh; rep from * across, turn. Row 8: Ch 3, sh in first sh, *ch 3, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 15, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 3, sh in next sh; rep from * across, turn. Row 9: Ch 3, sh in first sh, *ch 5, (sc, [ch 3, sc] 5 times) in next ch-15 sp, ch 5, sh in next sh; rep from * across, turn.

SHAPE RIGHT SHOULDER: Size 30" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 6, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 1, sh in next sh, turn—1 patt rep.


E F

C

B

Midsummer Maritime

D

body

Measurements: A bust circumference

D shoulder width

30 (37½, 45)" 76 (95, 114.5) cm

2¾ (4½, 4½)" 7 (11.5, 11.5) cm

B hem to underarm

E neck width

27" 68.5 cm

8½ (9, 9½)" 21.5 (23, 24) cm

C armhole height

F back neck height

7½" 19 cm

2.5" 6.5 cm

Stitch Key = chain (ch) = slip stitch (sl st) = single crochet (sc) = picot = half double crochet (hdc) = double crochet (dc)

A

Reduced stitch patt in the rnd 12

< 15 25

14 >

< 13

12 >

< 11

12

10

10 >

rep for patt

8

7

<9

6

8> 5

15

<7

6> 6

<5 6

4> 7

<3 8

2>

10

12

<1 25

26-st patt rep

Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

61


Midsummer Maritime

Row 2: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 7, sh in next sh, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 8, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 1, sh in next sh, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 10, sh in next sh, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 12, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sh in next sh, turn. Fasten off.

Sizes 37½ (45)" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sh in first sh, *ch 6, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times**, ch 6, sh in next sh; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, ch 1, sh in next sh, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;2 (3) patt reps. Row 2: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times**, ch 7, sh in next sh, ch 7; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, ch 1, sh in last sh, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times**, ch 8, sh in next sh, ch 8; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, ch 1, sh in last sh, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, *sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp**, ch 10, sh in next sh, ch 10; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, ch 1, sh in last sh, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, *sc in next ch-3 sp**, ch 12, sh in next sh, ch 12; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, ch 1, sh in last sh, turn. Fasten off.

All sizes: SHAPE LEFT SHOULDER: Size 30" only: Row 1: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in next open sh, ch 3, sh in same sh, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 6, sh in next sh, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;1 patt rep. Row 2: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 7, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 1, sh in next sh, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 8, sh in next sh, turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 10, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sh in next sh, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 12, sh in next sh, turn. Fasten off.

All sizes:

Size 37½" only:

Row 1: With WS facing, join yarn with sl st in next open sh, ch 3, sh in same sh, ch 25, sh in next sh, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;1 patt rep.

Row 1: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in same sh as last sh used for right shoulder, ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 6**, sh in next sh, ch 6; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, sh in last sh, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;2 patt reps. Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5: Work Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 of shape right shoulder.

Size 45" only: Row 1: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in next open sh, ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 6**, sh in next sh, ch 6; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, sh in last sh, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;2 patt reps. Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5: Work Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 of shape right shoulder.

All sizes:

Front:

Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5: Work Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 of back shape left shoulder.

Left front: Size 30" only:

Size 37½" only: Row 1: With WS facing, join yarn with sl st in same sh as last sh used for right front, ch 3, sh in same sh, [ch 25, sh in next sh] across, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;2 patt reps.

Size 45" only: Row 1: With WS facing, join yarn with sl st in next open sh, ch 3, sh in same sh, [ch 25, sh in next sh] across, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;2 patt reps.

All sizes: Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9: Work Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9 of back.

SHAPE LEFT SHOULDER: Size 30" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 6, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 1, sh in last sh, turn.

Sizes 37½ (45)" only:

Set-up row: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in next open sh after end of back, ch 3, sh in first sh, [ch 12, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 12, sh in next sh] 3 (4, 5) times, turn, leaving rem sts unworkedâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;3 (4, 5) patt reps.

Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sh in first sh, *ch 6, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times**, ch 6, sh in next sh; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, ch 1, sh in last sh, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;2 patt reps.

Right front:

All sizes:

Row 1: (WS) Ch 3, sh in first sh, [ch 25, sh in next sh] 1 (2, 2) time(s), turn, leaving rem sts unworkedâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;1 (2, 2) patt rep(s). Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9: Rep Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9 of back.

Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5: Work Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 of back shape right shoulder.

SHAPE RIGHT SHOULDER: Size 30" only:

With RS tog, join shoulders as foll: sl st through both thicknesses in first sh, *ch 12, sl st through both thicknesses in next sh; rep from * across.

Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 6, sh in last sh, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;1 patt rep.

Sizes 37½ (45)" only: Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sh in first sh, ch 1, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 6**, sh in next sh, ch 6; rep from * once, ending last rep at **, sh in last sh, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;2 patt reps.

FINISHING

Hem edging: With RS facing, sl st in beg ch to join, *ch 12, triple picot (see Stitch Guide) in next sc of Row 1 of body, ch 12, sc in next sh; rep from * around.

Tie Leaving 4" tail, chain about 30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;35" long, fasten off, leaving a 4" tail.

Tassels (Make 2) Wrap thread around cardboard 20 times. Cut two 6" lengths strands. Thread one strand through all lps at one end of cardboard. Knot tightly. Cut lps at opposite end. Wrap rem strand around all threads ½" below knot. Knot tightly and weave ends through center. Trim all ends even. Using photo as a guide, weave tie back and forth across front opening for desired look. Using tails from tie, attach 1 tassel to each end of tie. Block. Weave in ends. í·&#x20AC;

ALLA KOVAL enjoys knitting and crocheting at her bright studio in Seattle, with her best helperâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; adorable tiny Chihuahua Pixieâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;on her lap. See more of her designs at www.mylittlecitygirl.com; find her on Ravelry as myLCG and on Instagram as @allakovaldesigns. 62

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018


Square

Isa Catepillán

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE A (B, C, D, E) cups; high hip to it 27 (30, 33, 36, 39½)" circumference (adjustable). Sample shown measures A cup, top and bottom to it 27" with 5½" and 4½" negative ease, respectively. YARN Circulo Yarns Anne (distributed by Plymouth Yarn) (100% mercerized cotton; 371 yd [339 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; ): #2859 navy, 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) balls HOOK Sizes 5 (1.9 mm) and 7 (1.65 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle; 3" cardboard square. GAUGE 28 sts and 11 rows = 4" with smaller hook; Rnds 1–5 = about 4". See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you don’t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes If desired, add or remove one or more rows at the end of the front and back part of the bottom to adjust to your body measurements. Use edges to adapt to your measurements. Make the piece tighter or looser by adding or removing single crochet in spaces as needed. When attaching the hook and eye, sew it in from the edge to decrease its visibility.

Stitch Guide

Rnd 6: *Ch 4, (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in ch-2 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, [ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp] 2 times, ch 7**, sc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first ch-4 sp to join. Fasten off smallest rem size only.

Sizes D (E) cup AND sizes 36 (39½)" only:

Row 6: Ch 4, 4 dc in first ch-1 sp, [ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, {ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp} 2 times, ch 7, sc sl st in next ch-4 sp, ch 4], (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep bet [ ] one time, 4 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-4. Fasten off smallest rem size only.

Sizes D (E) cup AND sizes 36 (39½)" only: Row 7: Ch 4, 4 dc in first ch-1 sp, [ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, {ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp} 3 times, ch 7, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4], (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep bet [ ] one time, 4 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-4. Fasten off smallest rem size only.

Size E cup AND size 39½" only: Row 8: Ch 4, 4 dc in first ch-1 sp, [ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, {ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp} 4 times, ch 7, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4], (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep bet [ ] one time, 4 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-4. Fasten off.

Pattern BOTTOM With smaller hook, make 7 squares (see Stitch Guide) and 1 triangle (see Stitch Guide).

Band assembly:

Rnd 7: *Ch 4, (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in ch-2 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, [ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp] 3 times, ch 7**, sc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st first ch-4 sp to join. Fasten off smallest rem size.

Size E cup AND size 39½" only: Rnd 8: *Ch 4, (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in ch-2 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, [ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp] 4 times, ch 7**, sc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first ch-4 sp to join. Fasten off.

Join squares and triangle as shown in diagram.

Front Size 27" only: Row 1: With smaller hook, sl st in corner ch-2 sp of square #3 (see diagram), working across motifs, ch 2 (counts as first st throughout), dc3tog, dc in next st, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc

Band assembly diagram

Triangle

t e

sid

Ch 6, sl st in first ch to join. Row 1: Ch 3, dc in ring (counts as beg cl), [ch 4, dc cl in ring] 3 times, ch 4, end dc cl (see above), turn—6 cl, 4 ch-sps. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), [6 dc in next ch-4 sp] across to last ch-4 sp, 7 dc in last ch-4 sp, dc in top of beg cl, turn—27 dc. Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), sk next dc, dc in next dc, [ch 2, sk next dc, dc in next

n fro

Beginning double crochet cluster (beg dc cl): Ch 3, yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull lp through, yo, draw through 2 lps, yo, insert hook in same st or sp, pull lp through, yo, draw through 2 lps, yo, draw through all 3 lps on hook.

Sizes C (D, E) cup AND sizes 33 (36, 39½)" only:

Sizes C (D, E) cup AND sizes 33 (36, 39½)" only:

sid e

Aquatic Swimsuit

Ch 6, sl st in first ch to join. Rnd 1: Beg dc cl (see above) in ring, [ch 4, dc cl (see above) in ring] 7 times, ch 4, sl st in top of beg dc cl. Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 5 dc in next ch-4 sp, [6 dc in next ch-4 sp] around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), sk first st, dc in next dc, [ch 2, sk next dc, dc in next dc] around to last dc, ch 2, sk next dc, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. Rnd 4: Sl st in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, (3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in same ch-2 sp (corner), *ch 4, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 7, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, sk next ch-2 sp**, (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-2 sp (corner); rep from * 3 times, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnd 5: *Ch 4, (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp, ch 7**, sc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first ch-4 to join. Fasten off two smallest sizes only.

dc] across, ending with last dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1 throughout), 4 dc in first ch-2 sp, [ch 4, sk next (dc, ch-2 sp, dc), sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 7, sk next (dc, ch-2 sp, dc), sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, sk next (dc, ch-2 sp, dc], (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep bet [ ] one time, 4 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp, turn. Row 5: Ch 4, 4 dc in first ch-1 sp, [ch 4, sk next 4 dc, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp, ch 7, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4], (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep bet [ ] one time, 4 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-4. Fasten off two smallest sizes only.

back

Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

63

Midsummer Maritime

Double crochet cluster (dc cl): Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, pull lp through, yo, draw through 2 lps, (yo, insert hook in same st or sp, yo, pull lp through, yo, draw through 2 lps) 2 times, yo, draw through all 4 lps on hook. Ending double crochet cluster (end dc cl): Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull lp through, yo, draw through 2 lps, yo, insert hook in same st or sp, yo, pull lp through, yo, draw through 2 lps, yo, draw through all 3 lps on hook.


Midsummer Maritime

G

Measurements: A crotch width

E width before band

1½ (2, 2¼, 2¼, 2½)" 3.8 (5, 5.5, 5.5, 6.5) cm

12½ (14½, 16, 17¼, 19)" 30.5 (37, 40.5, 44, 48.5) cm

B height to band

F cup height

7½ (8, 8¾, 9½, 9¾)" 19 (20.5, 22, 24, 25) cm

5½ (7, 8¼, 9½, 10½)" 14 (18, 21, 24, 26.5) cm

C band height

G top width

4 (4, 4½, 5, 5½)" 10 (10, 11.5, 12.5, 14) cm

8 (8¾, 9½, 10¼, 11)" 20.5 (22, 24, 26, 28) cm

D high hip circumference

H cup width

27 (30, 33, 36, 39½)" 68.5 (76, 84, 91.5, 100.5) cm

6¾ (8½, 10¼, 11¾, 13½)" 17 (21.5, 26, 30, 34.5) cm

F

H D

C

E B

A

Triangle, Rows 1–5

Square, Rnds 1–5

<5 <4 <3 <2

2>

<5

<3

<1

4>

<1

Stitch Key = double crochet (dc)

= chain (ch) = slip stitch (sl st) = single crochet (sc)

in next 2 ch-sps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 corner sps, dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 2 ch-sps, 3 dc in next sp, dc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 corner sps, dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 2 ch-sps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next st, dc4tog (next 3 sts and next corner sp), turn.

Size 30" only: Row 1: With smaller hook, sl st in corner ch-2 sp of square #3 (see diagram), working across motifs, ch 2 (counts as first st throughout), dc3tog, dc in next st, 4 dc in next ch-sp, 7 dc in next 2 ch-sps, 4 dc in next ch sp, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next 2 corner sps, dc in next 4 sts, 4 dc in next ch-sp, 7 dc in next 2 ch-sps, 4 dc in next sp, 64

Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

dc in next 4 sts, dc in next corner sp, 2 dc in next corner sp, 2 dc in next 4 st, 4 dc in next ch-sp, 7 dc in next 2 ch-sps, 4 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next st, dc4tog (next 3 sts and corner sp), turn.

Size 33" only: Row 1: With smaller hook, sl st in corner ch-2 sp of square #3 (see diagram), working across motifs, ch 2 (counts as first st throughout), dc3tog, dc in next st, 4 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 3 ch-sps, 4 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 corner sps, dc in next 4 sts, 4 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 3 ch-sps, 4 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 4 st, dc in next 2 corner sps, dc in next 4 sts, 4 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 3 ch-

= dc cl

sps, 4 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next st, dc4tog (next 3 sts and corner), turn.

Size 36" only: Row 1: With smaller hook, sl st in corner ch-2 sp of square #3 (see diagram), working across motifs, ch 2 (counts as first st throughout), dc3tog, dc in next st, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 4 ch-sps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 4 sts, dc in next corner sp, dc in next corner sp, dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 5 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 2 ch-sps, 5 dc in next ch-sp, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 corners, dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 4 ch-sps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next st, dc4tog (next 3 sts and corner), turn.


Row 1: With smaller hook, sl st in corner ch-2 sp of square #3 (see diagram), working across motifs, ch 2 (counts as first st throughout), dc3tog, dc in next st, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 5 dc in next 5 ch-sps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 corner sps, dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 5 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 3 ch-sps, 5 dc in next ch-sp, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 corner sps, dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 5 dc in next 5 chsps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next st, dc4tog (next 3 sts and corner sp), turn.

All sizes: Rows 2–4 (2–6, 2–7, 2–8, 2–10): Ch 2 (counts as first st throughout), dc3tog, dc across to last 4 sts, dc4tog, turn. Rows 5–13 (7–16, 8–17, 9–19, 11–20): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc across to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn. Rows 14–19 (17–21, 18–22, 20–23, 21–24): Ch 2, dc across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. Rows 20–22 (22–23, 23–24, 24–26, 25–27): Ch 2, hdc across, turn. Fasten off at end of last row.

Back Size 27" only: Row 1: With smaller hook, sl st in corner ch-2 sp of square #5 (see diagram), working across motifs, ch 2 (counts as first st), dc3tog, dc in next st, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 2 ch-sps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 4 sts, dc in corner sp, working across triangle, [3 dc in side sp] 5 times, 4 dc in next side sp (middle), [3 dc in next side sp] 5 times, dc in next corner sp, dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 2 ch-sps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next st, dc4tog (next 3 sts and corner sp), turn.

Size 30" only: Row 1: With smaller hook, sl st in corner ch-2 sp of square #5 (see diagram), working across motifs, ch 2 (counts as first st), dc3tog, dc in next st, 4 dc in next ch-sp, 7 dc in next

2 ch-sps, 4 dc in next ch sp, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in corner sp, working across triangle, [4 dc in next side sp] 5 times, 4 dc in next side sp (middle), [4 dc in next side sp] 5 times, 2 dc in next corner sp, 2 dc in next 4 sts, 4 dc in next ch-sp, 7 dc in next 2 ch-sps, 4 dc in next ch sp, dc in next st, dc4tog (next 3 sts and corner sp), turn.

Size 33" only: Row 1: With smaller hook, sl st in corner ch-2 sp of square #5 (see diagram), working across motifs, ch 2 (counts as first st), dc3tog, dc in next st, 4 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 3 ch-sps, 4 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 4 sts, dc in corner sp, working across triangle, [4 dc in next side sp] 3 times, [3 dc in next side sp] 3 times, 4 dc in next side sp (middle), [3 dc in next side sp] 3 times, [4 dc in next side sp] 3 times, dc in next corner, dc in next 4 sts, 4 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 3 ch-sps, 4 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next st, dc4tog (next 3 sts and corner), turn.

Size 36" only: Row 1: With smaller hook, sl st in corner ch-2 sp of square #5 (see diagram), working across motifs, ch 2 (counts as first st), dc3tog, dc in next st, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 4 ch-sps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 4 sts, dc in corner sp, working across triangle, 4 dc in next 2 side sps, [3 dc in next side sp] 5 times, 4 dc in next side sp (middle), [3 dc in next side sp], 4 dc in next 2 side sps, dc in next corner, dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 6 dc in next 4 ch-sps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next st, dc4tog (next 3 sts and corner), turn.

Size 39½" only: Row 1: With smaller hook, sl st in corner ch-2 sp of square #5 (see diagram), working across motifs, ch 2 (counts as first st), dc3tog, dc in next st, 3 dc in ch-sp, 5 dc in next 5 ch-sps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 4 st, dc in next corner sp, working across triangle, 4 dc in next 2 side sps, 3 dc in next 6 side sps, 4 dc in next side sp (middle), 3 dc in next 6 side sps, 4 dc in next 2 side sp, dc in next corner, dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next ch-sp, 5 dc in next 5 ch-sps, 3 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next st, dc4tog (next 3 sts and next corner), turn.

All sizes: Rows 2–5 (2–9, 2–9, 2–11, 2–13): Ch 2, dc3tog, dc across to last 4 sts, dc4tog, turn. Rows 6–16 (10–18, 10–19, 12–22, 14–22): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc across to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn.

Size 27" only: Rows 17–19: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. Rows 20–22: Ch 2, hdc across, turn. Fasten off at end of last row.

Size 30" only: Rows 19–22: Ch 2, dc across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. Row 23: Ch 2, hdc across, turn. Fasten off.

Size 33" only: Rows 20–23: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc across to last

2 sts, dc2tog, turn. Row 24: Ch 2, hdc across. Fasten off.

Size 36" only: Row 23: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. Rows 24–26: Ch 2, hdc across, turn. Fasten off at end of last row.

Size 39½" only: Rows 23–25: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. Rows 26–27: Ch 2, hdc across, turn. Fasten off at end of last row.

EDGING Sizes 27 (33)" only: With smaller hook, sl st in same corner ch-2 sp of square #5, sc in next 4 dc, *[ch 4, sc in next ch-sp] across to next 4 dc, sc in next 4 dc, sc in next ch-sp**, sc in next 4 dc; rep from * across to triangle, sc in top corner of triangle; rep from * around, ending last rep at **. Fasten off.

Size 30" only: With smaller hook, sl st in same corner ch-2 sp of square #5, sc in next 4 dc, *[ch 5, sc in next ch-sp] across to next 4 dc, sc in next 4 dc, sc in next ch-sp**, sc in next 4 dc; rep from * across to triangle, sc in top corner of triangle; rep from * around, ending last rep at **. Fasten off.

Sizes 36 (39½)" only With smaller hook, sl st in same corner ch-2 sp of square #5, sc in next 4 dc, *[ch 6, sc in next ch-sp] across to next 4 dc, sc in next 4 dc, sc in next ch-sp**, sc in next 4 dc; rep from * across to triangle, sc in top corner of triangle; rep from * around, ending last rep at **. Fasten off.

FINISHING Sew hook and eye as shown in diagram.

Top Size A cup only: With larger hook, make 1 square (see Stitch Guide) and 2 triangles (see Stitch Guide).

Sizes B (C, D, E) cup only: With smaller hook, make 1 square (see Stitch Guide) and 2 triangles (see Stitch Guide).

Assembly Join squares and triangle as shown in diagram.

Cups (make 2) With smaller hook, make an adjustable ring. Row 1: 5 dc in ring, turn. Rows 2–8 (2–10, 2–12, 2–14, 2–16): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in first st, dc across to last st, 3 dc in last st, turn. Rows 9–13 (10–17, 13–20, 15–23, 17–26): Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, dc across to 3 center sts, dc3tog, dc across to last st, 3 dc in last st, turn. Rows 14–15 (18–19, 21–22, 24–25, 27–28): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, hdc across to last st, 3 dc in last st, turn. Do not fasten off at end of last row.

BOTTOM EDGING: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Fasten off.

Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

65

Midsummer Maritime

Size 39½" only:


Midsummer Maritime

TOP EDGING:

GAUGE 4½ V-sts and 8 V-st rows = 3" in sm

Sl st in opposite side of adjustable ring at top of cup, working across triangles and square, sc evenly spaced across. Fasten off.

lace patt; 4½ patt reps and 10 rows = 4" in lg lace patt; both worked with larger hook.

Strings Leaving tail, sl st in adjustable ring, ch 200 (220, 240, 260, 280). Fasten off, leaving tail. Weave bet 2 edge sc on bottom edge of opposite side. Attach tassel (optional).

Tassel Wrap thread around cardboard 20 times. Cut two 6" length strands. Thread one strand through all lps at one end of cardboard. Knot tightly. Cut lps at opposite end. Wrap rem strand around all threads ½" below knot. Knot tightly and weave ends through center. Trim all ends even. íˇ&#x20AC;

ISA CATEPILLĂ N is a self-taught textile artist and fashion designer. She finds courage to do what she loves, and endless inspiration, in her Mapuche (indigenous people of Patagonia) lineage of traditional weavers. Born in Chile but currently based in Byron Bay, Australia, Isa creates delicate and feminine custom-designed crochet wedding dresses for beach, eco, and boho brides around the globe. Find more at www.isacatepillan.com.

See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Shorts are worked in one piece from the waist down, first in rows until the side opening is completed and then in turned rounds.

Stitch Guide Picot: Ch 3, sl st in top of last st made. V-stitch (V-st): (Dc, picot [see above], dc) in indicated st or sp. Treble V-Stitch (tr V-st): (Tr, picot, tr) in indicated st or sp. 3-picot group (3-picot grp): Ch 3, sc in first ch, ch 3, sc in first ch of first ch-3, ch 3, sl st in first ch of first ch-3. Modified double crochet two together (mod dc2tog): *Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook*, sk next 2 sts, rep from * to * once, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

Small Lace Patt (and Buttonband) (sm lace) Set-up row: (WS) Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), sk first st, V-st (see above) in next st, *ch 1, sk next 2 sts, V-st in next st; rep from * across to last 5 sts, ch 1, sk next st, dc in last 4 dc, turn. Row 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in next 3 dc, V-st in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * to end, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 2: Ch 3, *V-st in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * across to last 4 sts, dc in last 4 dc, turn. Rep Rows 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2 for patt.

Large Lace Patt (and Buttonband) (lg lace)

Seafaring Shorts Jane Howorth

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 25½ (28Ÿ, 33½, 36½, 41½)" waist circumference. Sample measures 25½", modeled with 1" negative ease. YARN Scheepjes Catona (100% mercerized cotton; 137 yd [125 m]/1ž oz [50 g]; ): #192 scarlet (MC), 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) balls; #106 snow white (CC), 1 ball. HOOK Sizes C/2 (3 mm) and B/1 (2.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Removable st markers (m); yarn needle; 5/8" buttons, 6; matching sewing thread; sewing needle. 66

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2018

Set-up row: (WS) Ch 3, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc**, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, dc in last 4 sts, turn. Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, *ch 2, mod dc2tog (see above), 3-picot grp (see above), ch 2, dc in next st; rep from * across, placing last dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 2: (WS) Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2 throughout), sc in center ch-3 of next 3-picot grp, ch 2, *dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in center ch-3 of next 3-picot grp, ch 2; rep from * across to last 4 sts, dc in last 4 sts, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, *2 dc in next ch-2 sp, sk next sc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * across, placing last dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5, turn. Row 4: Ch 5, mod dc2tog, 3-picot grp, ch 2, *dc in next st, ch 2, mod dc2tog, ch 2, 3-picot grp, ch 2; rep from * across to last 4 sts, dc in last 4 sts, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, *ch 2, sc in center ch-3 of next 3-picot grp, ch 2, dc in

next dc; rep from * across, placing last dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5, turn. Row 6: Ch 3, *2 dc in next ch-2 sp, sk next sc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * across, dc in last 3 sts, turn. Rep Rows 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 for patt.

Large Lace in Rnds (lg lace in rnds) Rnd 1: Ch 5, mod dc2tog, 3-picot grp, ch 2, *dc in next st, ch 2, mod dc2tog, 3-picot grp, ch 2; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join, turn. Rnd 2: Ch 5, sc in center ch-3 of next 3-picot grp, ch 2, *dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in center ch-3 of next 3-picot grp, ch 2; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg 5-ch to join, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, *2 dc in next ch-2 sp, sk next sc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp**; dc in next dc, rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Rep Rnds 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;3 for patt.

Pattern WAIST With larger hook and MC, fsc 124 (136, 160, 172, 196) sts, turn. Work Set-up row of sm lace patt (see Stitch Guide)â&#x20AC;&#x201D;40 (44, 52, 56, 64) V-sts, turn.

BACK RISE: Row 1: Work Row 1 of sm lace patt for a total of 2 V-sts, ending with ch 1, *tr V-st (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * 15 (17, 21, 23, 27) times, cont in Row 1 of sm lace patt across, beg with V-st in next V-st, turn. Place marker (pm) in picot of first and last tr V-st of row. Note: Move m up to picot of first and last tr V-st of row as work progresses. Row 2: Work Row 2 of sm lace patt across to first m, *tr V-st in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * 11 (13, 17, 19, 23) times, move 2nd m to picot of last tr V-st just made, cont in Row 2 of sm lace patt across, turn. Row 3: Work Row 1 of sm lace patt across to first m, *tr V-st in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * 7 (9, 13, 15, 19) times, cont in Row 1 of sm lace patt across, turn. Row 4: Work Row 2 of sm lace patt across to first m, *tr V-st in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * 3 (5, 9, 11, 13) times, cont in Row 2 of sm lace across, remove m, turn. Cont in sm lace patt until piece measures about 3" from center front waist (not back rise), ending with Row 2 of patt. Transition row: (RS) Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * across to last st, dc in top of beg ch-3â&#x20AC;&#x201D;205 (225, 265, 285, 325) sts. Next row: (WS) Work Set-up row of lg lace patt (see Stitch Guide)â&#x20AC;&#x201D;204 (224, 264, 284, 324) sts rem. Cont in lg lace patt in rows until piece measures 6" from center front waist, ending with Row 2 or 5 of patt. Join to work in the rnd: With WS facing, overlap side openings of piece for width of


Midsummer Maritime

Measurements: A

B n ope ing

shorts

F

C

A waist circumference, buttoned

D leg circumference

25½ (28¼, 33½, 36½, 41½)" 65 (72, 85, 92.5, 105.5) cm

18¾ (20½, 24, 26¾, 27½)" 47.5 (52, 61, 68, 70) cm

B back raise

E leg length

½" 1.3 cm

3½" 9 cm

C full hip circumference

F front top to gusset

35½ (39¼, 46¼, 49¾, 56¾)" 90 (99.5, 117.5 cm, 126.5, 144) cm

8¼" 21 cm

E

D

Small Lace Patt (and Buttonband)

Large Lace Patt (and Buttonband)

<3

<7

<1

<5

<3

rep for patt

4>

2>

rep for patt

2>

6>

set-up row >

Symbol Key <1

= slip stitch (sl st)

= mod dc2tog

= chain (ch) set-up row >

= single crochet (sc) < transition row

= fsc

= picot = 3-picot grp

= double crochet (dc)

sm lace 2>

sm lace patt

buttonband. With buttonband at top, sk first 3 dc of buttonband and sl st in 4th dc of buttonband to join, pm for side seam. Next rnd: Work Rnd 3 of lg lace in rnds (see Stitch Guide). Cont in lg lace in rnds until piece measures 8¼" from center front waist, ending with Rnd 3 of patt. Fasten off.

DIVIDE FOR LEGS: Sk next 9 (10, 12, 13, 15) 3-picot grps, pm in next dc, sk next two 3-picot grps, pm in next dc, sk 18 (20, 24, 26, 30) 3-picot grps, pm in next dc, sk next two 3-picot grps, pm in next dc.

Front gusset: Locate set of markers on front, join yarn with sl st in first marked dc, beg with Row 1 of patt, work 6 rows of lg lace patt (in rows) across sts bet m. Fasten off at end of last row.

Back gusset: Locate set of markers on back, join yarn with sl st in first marked dc, beg with Row 1 of patt, work 3 (3, 3, 6, 6) rows of lg lace pat (in rows) across sts bet m, turn. Interweave Crochet • www.interweave.com

67


Midsummer Maritime

Gusset join:

NOTIONS Yarn needle. GAUGE 23 sc and 23 rows = 4" in ribbing

Sc blo around back gusset, sc flo around front gusset. Fasten off. Pm at both ends of last rnd for new inside leg seam positions, remove old side seam m.

patt (measured flat); (ch 2, double arch) 2 times = 3ž" and 6 rows = about 3½" in main patt (measured flat).

Left leg: Join yarn with sl st at inside leg seam. Beg with Rnd 1 of lg lace patt in rnds, work 2 patt reps along edge of front gusset, cont in patt as est around leg opening, work 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) patt rep(s) along edge of back gusset, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;21 (23, 27, 30, 31) total patt reps. Work 4 rnds of lg lace patt in rnds, do not turn at end of last rnd, change to CC. CC rnd: (RS) With CC, work Rnd 3 of lg lace patt in rnds, but insert hook in all sts and ch of last rnd, at end of rnd, change to MC, turn. Next rnd: With MC, work 2 rnds of lg lace, do not turn at end of last rnd, change to CC. Next rnd: With RS facing, rep CC rnd, change to MC, do not turn. Last rnd: With MC and smaller hook, work Rnd 1 of lg lace patt in the rnd. Fasten off.

Right leg: Join yarn with sl st at inside leg seam. Beg with Rnd 1 of lg lace patt in rnds, work 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) patt rep(s) along edge of back gusset, cont in patt as est around leg opening, work 2 patt reps along edge of front gusset, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn. Complete as for left leg.

FINISHING Tie With smaller hook and MC, ch 277 (295, 313, 331, 349), sc in back ridge lp of 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across. Fasten off. Beg at front center, weave tie through set-up row around.

Waist edging and buttonholes Row 1: With RS facing and smaller hook, join MC with sl st at base of side opening, ch 1, 36 sc evenly spaced along edge of side opening, ch 1 (corner), sc in base of each fsc around waist opening to end of top edge, do not turn. Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, rev sc in each sc around waist opening to end of top edge, rev sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, turn, sc in same 1-ch sp, *ch 3, sk next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sc; rep from * to end, working along edge of side openingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;6 ch-3 buttonhole sps. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block. Attach buttons to buttonband opposite buttonholes. íˇ&#x20AC;

JANE HOWORTH has been crocheting since she was a child and combines full-time designing with teaching in North Wales, United Kingdom. She always aims to stay true to her principles of designing beautiful, fashionable, and wearable items. Find her on Facebook, Ravelry, and Twitter as @JaneHoworthKnit.

68

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2018

See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Ribbing is worked first. Back and front are worked across edge of ribbing. Fasten off when changing colors. Measurements given when garment is laid flat. Fabric is very elastic and will stretch when worn.

Saltwater Top Natasha Robarge

PLUS SIZE Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 39½ (43, 46½, 50, 54)" bust circumference. Sample shown measures 39½", modeled with 7" positive ease. YARN Cascade Yarns Hampton (70% Pima cotton, 30% linen; 273 yd ): #03 white [250 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; (A), 2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) hanks; #06 red, 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) hank(s). HOOK Size F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Stitch Guide Quintuple crochet (qc): Yo 5 times, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull up lp, (yo, draw through 2 lps on hook) 6 times. Single arch (arch): Sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 12, sc in next ch-1 sp. Beginning half fan (beg half fan): (Dc, ch 1) 3 times in indicated st or sp. Fan 1: (Dc, ch 1) 6 times in indicated st or sp. Fan 2: (Ch 1, dc) 6 times in indicated st or sp. Ending half fan (end half fan): (Ch 1, dc) 3 times in indicated st or sp. Double arch: [Sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 12, sk next ch-1 sp] 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp.

Ribbing patt With A, ch 24 for swatch. Row 1 (RS): (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;23 sc. Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;27: Ch 1, sc blo across, drop lp from hook.


Measurements:

G

E

H

front & back

D

C

B

A

Midsummer Maritime

F

Stitch Key

A waist inc

E side opening

7" 18 cm

16¼" 41.5 cm

B center

F shoulder

1½ (2¾, 4, 5½, 7)" 3.8 (7, 10, 14, 18) cm

5½" 14 cm

= single crochet (sc)

C waist dec

G neck opening

= single crochet (sc)

7¼" 18.5 cm

8¾ (10½, 12¼, 14, 15¾)" 22 (26.5, 31, 35.5, 40) cm

D waist height

H bust circumference

7" 18 cm

39½ (43, 46½, 50, 54)" 100.5 (109, 118, 127, 137) cm

= back loop only (blo) = chain (ch)

= quintuple crochet (qc)

Reduced body patt

9>

<9

7> <7

5>

<5 3>

<3

2> <1

Body patt Rotate to work in end of ribbing rows. Place dropped lp on hook. Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, *sc same lp as last sc made at end of next RS row, ch 1, sk next row; rep from * across, working last sc in beg ch, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, arch (see above); rep from * across, sc in last sc, turn. Row 3: Ch 9 (counts as qc, ch 2), *3 sc in ch-12 sp, ch 2, 3 sc in next ch-12 sp, ch 4; rep from * across to last 2 ch-12 sps, 3 sc in ch-12 sp, ch 2, 3 sc in next ch-12 sp, ch 2, qc in last sc, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, beg half fan (see above) in first ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, *ch 1, fan 1 (see above) in next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp;

rep from * across, end half fan (see above) in last ch-9 sp, dc in 7th ch of beg ch-9, change color to B (see Notes), turn. Row 5: With B, ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 12, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 2, sk next 2 ch-1 sps**, double arch (see above); rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 2, sk next 2 ch-1 sps, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 12, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 6: Ch 9, 3 sc in first ch-12 sp, *ch 4, 3 sc in next ch-12 sp, ch 2, 3 sc in next ch-12 sp; rep from * across to last ch-12 sp, ch 4, 3 sc in last ch-12 sp, ch 2, qc in last sc, turn. Row 7: Ch 1, sc in qc, *fan 2 (see above) in next ch-4 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across, fan 2 in last ch-4 sp, ch 1, sc in 7th ch of beg ch-9, change color to A, turn. Row 8: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 1, sk next ch-1

sp, double arch, *ch 2, sk next 2 ch-1 sps, double arch; rep from * across, ch 1, sc in last sc, turn. Rows 9–10: Rep Rows 3–4. Change color at end of Row 10. Rep Rows 5–10 for patt.

Pattern BACK/FRONT (MAKE 1 EACH) Ribbing Ch 41. Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn—40 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo in each sc across, turn.

BEG DEC: Row 3: Ch 1, scblo2tog, sc blo across, turn—1 sc dec’d. Row 4: Ch 1, sc blo in each sc across, turn.

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Midsummer Maritime

Notes

Rows 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;18: Rep Rows 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4 seven times. Rows 19â&#x20AC;&#x201C;20: Ch 1, sc blo across, turn. Row 21: Ch 1, scblo2tog, sc blo across, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;1 sc decâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d. Row 22: Ch 1, sc blo across, turn. Rows 23â&#x20AC;&#x201C;42: Rep Rows 19â&#x20AC;&#x201C;22 five timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;26 sc at end of last row.

Wrap is worked flat, then fringe is added to completed piece.

Stitch Guide Double crochet-cluster (dc-cl): Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, yo, insert hook in same st or sp, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

CENTER: Rows 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;8 (16, 24, 32, 40): Ch 1, sc blo across, turn.

BEG INC: Row 1: Ch 1, 2 sc blo in first sc, sc blo across, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;1 sc incâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d. Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4: Ch 1, sc blo across, turn. Rows 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;24: Rep last 4 rows five times. Row 25: Ch 1, 2 sc blo in first sc, sc blo across, turn. Row 26: Ch 1, sc blo across, turn. Rows 27â&#x20AC;&#x201C;40: Rep last 2 rows 7 times. Row 41: Ch 1, sc blo across, drop lp from hook.

Pattern BODY

Cruising Wrap Arica Presinal

Body: Rotate to work in row-ends. Place dropped lp on hook. Rows 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10: Work Rows 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10 of main patt.

BACK ONLY: Rows 11â&#x20AC;&#x201C;28: Work Rows 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10 of main patt 3 times. Fasten off.

FRONT ONLY: Rows 11â&#x20AC;&#x201C;27: Work Rows 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10 of main patt 2 times, then work Rows 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9 one time. Do not fasten off. Drop lp from hook.

Back/Front assembly Holding back and front tog, place marker (pm) 1 fan to right and to left of 4 center fans. Cont with back and front held tog, ch 3, sl st in first dc on back, sc in next dc on back, beg half fan in first ch-2 sp on front, ch 1, sc in next ch-2 sp on front, *end half fan in next ch-4 sp on front, ch 1, sc in 3rd dc on back, dc in same ch-4 sp on front, sc in 4th dc on back, ch 1, (dc, ch 1) 2 times in same ch-4 sp on front, sc in next ch-2 sp on front*; rep bet * across to marked fan, **end half fan in next ch-4 sp on front, ch 12, sc in 3rd dc on back, ch 1, sc in 4th dc on back, ch 12, beg half fan in same ch-4 sp on front, sc in next ch-2 sp on front**, [fan 2 in next ch-4 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-2 sp] across to next marked shell; rep bet ** once; rep bet * across to beg ch-2 sp, (ch 1, dc) 2 times in beg ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in 3rd dc on back, dc in beg ch-2 sp on front, sc in last dc on back. Fasten off.

FINISHING With WS facing, holding first and last rows of front and back ribbing tog, sl st in first st, sc in same st as join and in each rem st across. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block body. í·&#x20AC;

NATASHA ROBARGE is an avid crocheter and knitter. Her crochet designs have appeared in Interweave Crochet, Love of Crochet, and other publications. She lives in Houston and strives to create fun and functional crochet garments.

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Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 15½" wide and 78" long, blocked. YARN Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton; 137 yd [125 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; ): #401 paper white, 8 balls. HOOK Size D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle. GAUGE 28 dc and 14 rows = 5½" in patt. See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Ch 78. Set-up row: Dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, *[ch 5, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch] 2 times, ch 3, sk next 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch, ch 3, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, [ch 5, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch] 2 times, ch 2, sk next 2 ch**, [2 dc in next ch] 2 times, ch 2, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in last ch, turn. Row 1: (RS) Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2 throughout), sc in next ch-2 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 2 times, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, *ch 3, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 2 times, sc in next ch-2 sp**, ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 2 times, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of beg 3 skipped chs, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, *dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next 5 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp**, [ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp]


Midsummer Maritime

Reduced body patt 14>

< 13

12>

< 11

10> <9

8>

<7

6> <5 4>

<3

2> <1

set-up row>

2 times, ch 3; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, sc in last dc, turn. Row 3: Ch 5, sc in first ch-2 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp, *ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 6, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3**, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 5] 3 times, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in last sc, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, *ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk next dc, 2 sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2**, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in last dc, turn. Row 5: Ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp, *ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next 2 sc, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp**, ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 2, dc in last dc, turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 5, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next 4 sc, sc in next

ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5**, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * across, ending at last rep **, sc in last dc, turn. Row 7: Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp, *ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk first sc, sc in next 4 sc, ch 3, sk next sc, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3**, sk next dc, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc in last sc, turn. Row 8: Ch 3, dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 2, *sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk first sc, sc in next 2 sc, ch 3, sk next sc, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2**, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in last dc, turn. Row 9: Ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, *ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp**, ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 2, dc in last dc, turn. Row 10: Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, *ch 3,

Stitch Key = chain (ch) = single crochet (sc) = double crochet (dc)

= dc3tog

= dc-cl

sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp**, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, turn. Row 11: [Ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp] 2 times, *ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next 5 dc, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-3 sp**, [ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp] 4 times; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, [ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp] 2 times, ch 2, dc in last sc, turn. Row 12: Ch 3, dc in next ch-2 sp, *ch 3, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 2 times, sc in next ch-3

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Fringe

HOOK Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS Yarn needle, removable stitch marker (m), 1.

GAUGE Rows 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;8 of Shawl = 10ž" wide and 4" tall, blocked. Gauge is not critical for this project. See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Shawl is worked from the center out toward the ribbed border. Beginning chain does not count as a stitch unless indicated. Move marker up as work progresses.

Going Ashore Shawl

Stitch Guide

Sharon Ballsmith

Cut eighty-eight 11½" lengths of yarn.

END FRINGE PLACEMENT With RS facing, 4 strands held tog, and using larkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s head knot, place fringe in corner st, [sk next two 3-dc groups, place fringe in sp bet next two 3-dc groups] 2 times, sk next three 3-dc group, place fringe in sp in bet next two 3-dc groups, sk next [3-dc group, 2-dc group, 2 dc, 3-dc group], place fringe in sp in bet next two 3-dc groups, sk next three 3-dc groups, place fringe in sp bet next two 3-dc groups, sk next two 3-dc groups, place fringe in sp bet next two 3-dc groups, sk next [3-dc group, 2-dc group, 2 dc, 3-dc group], place fringe in sp bet next two 3-dc groups, sk next [3-dc group, 2-dc group, 2 dc, 3-dc group], sk next two 3-dc groups, place fringe in sp bet next two 3-dc groups, sk next three 3-dc groups, place fringe in sp bet next two 3-dc groups, place fringe in next corner stâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;11 fringe.

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE About 73" wide and 23" tall, blocked. YARN Sugar Bush Yarns Itty-Bitty (65% ine superwash merino, 25% nylon, 10% cashmere; 153 yd [140 m]/1ž oz [50 g]; ): #5001 buttercream (A), 6 balls; #5008 indigo (B) 4 balls; #5009 sunglow (C), 1 ball.

Beginning treble-cluster (beg tr-cl): Ch 3, *yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo and pull up lp, (yo, draw through 2 lps on hook) 2 times; rep from * once, yo, draw through all 3 lps on hook. Extended double crochet V-stitch (edc V-st): (Edc, ch 1, edc) in indicated st or sp. Fan: ([Dc, ch 1] 2 times, dc) in indicated st or sp. Treble-cluster (tr-cl): *Yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo and pull up lp, (yo, draw through 2 lps on hook) 2 times; rep from *

Reduced body and edging patt

BEG FRINGE PLACEMENT

2>

4>

rep as indicated

FINISHING Weave in ends. Trim fringe ends even. Block as desired. íˇ&#x20AC;

ARICA PRESINAL is the founder of Skeinsnsticks Designs, which strives to keep an eye toward the happenings of the ready-to-wear fashion arena and an ear to the ground for what women of all shapes and sizes would feel fabulous wearing. Learn more at www.skeinsnsticks designs.com or find Skeinsnsticks on Ravelry.

rep 3 times

Stitch Key = slip stitch = chain (ch)

= dc V-st

= single crochet (sc)

= dc sh

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2018

= tr-cl

= edc V-st

= double crochet (dc) = fan = edc sh

= FPdc = beg tr-cl = BPdc

72

< edging 1

<3

<1

With RS of set-up row facing, 4 strands held tog, and using larkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s head knot, place fringe in corner st, [sk next ch-sp, place fringe in next ch-sp] 2 times, *sk next 2 ch-sps, place fringe in next ch-sp, sk next ch-sp, place fringe in next ch-sp**; rep from * ending last rep at **, place last fringe in corner stâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;11 fringe.

edging 2 >

Midsummer Maritime

sp, ch 3, sk next dc, dc3tog, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp] 2 times, ch 3**, 2 dc-cl (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-5 sp; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, dc2tog in last dc, turn. Row 13: Ch 3, *[3 dc in next ch-sp] 7 times**, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next 2 dc; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dc, dc in last dc, turn. Row 14: Ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, *sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc] 2 times, ch 3, sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sk next 2 ch, sc in next dc] 2 times, ch 3**, sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in next 2 dc, ch 2; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in last dc, turn. Rep Rows 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;14 twelve times, ending last rep with Row 13. Fasten off at end of last row.


Pattern BODY Row 1: (RS) With C, ch 2, (sc, beg tr-cl [see Stitch Guide], edc V-st [see Stitch Guide], fan [see Stitch Guide], place marker (pm) in 2nd dc of fan, edc V-st, tr-cl [see Stitch Guide]) in 2nd ch from hook, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;2 edc V-sts, 1 sc, 1 beg tr-cl, 1 tr-cl, 1 fan. Row 2: Ch 1, (sc, beg tr-cl, edc sh [see Stitch Guide]) in first tr-cl, [dc sh (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-1 sp] across to marked dc, dc in marked dc, pm, [dc sh in next ch-1 sp] across to last tr-cl, (edc sh, tr-cl) in last tr-cl, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;4 dc sh, 2 edc-sh, 1 sc, 1 beg tr-cl, 1 tr-cl, 1 dc. Fasten off C. Row 3: With RS facing, join A with sl st in first tr-cl, ch 1, (sc, beg tr-cl, edc V-st) in first tr cl, [dc V-st (see Stitch Guide) in 2nd st of next sh] across to marked dc, fan in marked dc, pm, [dc V-st in 2nd st of next sh] across to last tr-cl, (edc V-st, tr-cl) in last tr-cl, turn. Row 4: Ch 1, (sc, beg tr-cl, edc sh) in first tr-cl, [dc sh in next ch-1 sp] across to marked st, dc in marked st, pm, [dc sh in next ch-1 sp] across to last tr-cl, (edc sh, tr cl) in last tr cl, turn. Rows 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;8: Cont with A, rep Rows 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4 two timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;22 dc sh, 2 edc sh, 1 sc, 1 beg tr-cl, 1 tr-cl, 1 dc at end of last row. Fasten off A. Row 9: With RS facing, join B with sl st in first tr-cl, rep Row 3. Row 10: Rep Row 4. Rows 11â&#x20AC;&#x201C;14: Cont with B, rep Rows 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4 two timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;40 dc-sh, 2 edc sh, 1 sc, 1 beg tr-cl, 1

tr-cl, 1 dc at end of last row. Fasten off B. Rows 15â&#x20AC;&#x201C;50: Rep Rows 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;14 four timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;148 dc-sh, 2 edc sh, 1 sc, 1 beg tr-cl, 1 tr-cl, 1 dc at end of last row. Row 51: With RS facing, join C with sl st in first of tr-cl, rep Row 3â&#x20AC;&#x201D;150 dc V-sts, 2 edc V-sts, 1 sc, 1 beg tr-cl, 1 tr-cl, 1 fan. Fasten off C. Row 52: With RS facing, join A with sl st in first tr-cl, rep Row 4â&#x20AC;&#x201D;154 dc sh, 2 edc sh, 1 sc, 1 beg tr-cl, 1 tr-cl, 1 dc.

Midsummer Maritime

2 times, yo, draw through all 4 lps on hook. Extended double crochet shell (edc sh): 3 edc in indicated st or sp. Double crochet shell (dc sh): 3 dc in indicated st or sp. Double crochet V-stitch (dc V-st): (Dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.

Edging: Row 1: Ch 1, (sc, beg tr-cl, edc-sh) in first tr-cl, [FPdc around next st, BPdc around next st] across to marked st, 2 dc in sp before next marked st, FPdc around marked st, pm, 2 dc in sp before next st, [BPdc around next st, FPdc around next st] across to last tr-cl, (edc sh, tr-cl) in last tr-cl, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;1 sc, 1 beg tr-cl, 1 tr-cl, 2 edc sh, 235 FPdc, 234 BPdc, 4 dc. Row 2: Ch 1, (sc, beg tr-cl, edc sh) in first trcl, [FPdc around next st, BPdc around next st] across to marked st, pm, FPdc around next st, [BPdc around next st, FPdc around next st] across to last tr-cl, (edc sh, tr-cl) in last tr-cl, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;1 sc, 2 tr-cl, 2 edc sh, 240 FPdc, 239 BPdc. Rows 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;8: Rep Rows 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2 three timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;1 sc, 1 beg tr-cl, 1 tr-cl, 2 edc sh, 265 FPdc, 264 BPdc at end of last row. Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to finished size. í·&#x20AC;

SHARON BALLSMITH is an avid crocheter and indie designer whose patterns have been published in multiple books and magazines and for yarn companies since 2010. She loves playing with stitch patterns and dreaming up new designs with her hooks. Find more of her designs online at www.ravelry.com/designers/sharon-ballsmith or find her on Ravelry as stitchesandstones.

Sailorly Tote Lexi Nelson

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 16½" square and 3½" deep. YARN Bernat Maker Home Dec (72% cotton, 28% nylon; 317 yd [290 m]/8.8 oz [250 g]; ): #11009 cream, 4 balls. HOOK Size K/10.5 (6.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle; removable stitch markers (m), 8; large frog closure or button (La Mode Naturals Genuine Horn toggle), 1; 60â&#x20AC;&#x201C;75" long leather clip-on strap (Vintage Crafts leather adjustable shoulder strap); 1½" metal rings (Everything Mary Antique 1½" O-rings), 2. GAUGE 11 dc = 3½" and 5 rnds = 5" in diameter. See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Front, back, side panel, and flap are worked separately. Seaming is done on the outside of the bag to create a welted edge, which helps form the structure of the bag. Move markers up each row and place marker in last double crochet before post stitch.

Stitch Guide Double crochet in ring (dc in ring): Yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, holding yarn underneath, insert hook into ring, yo, draw through 2 over ring.

SIDES (MAKE 2) Set-up rnd: Ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook to form ring, ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), 15 dc in ring, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;16 dc.

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ www.interweave.com

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Midsummer Maritime

Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, FPdc around next st, 2 dc in next st, place marker (pm) in dc just made, FPtr around next st, *2 dc in next st, FPdc around next st, 2 dc in next st, pm in dc just made, FPtr around next st; rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;16 dc, 4 FPdc, 4 FPtr. Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, dc in next dc, *FPdc around next FPdc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in marked st , FPtr around next FPtr**, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;24 dc, 4 FPdc, 4 FPtr. Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, dc in next 2 dc, *FPdc around FPdc, dc in next 2 dc, 3 dc in next st, FPtr around next FPtr**, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 2 dc, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;40 dc, 4 FPtr, 4 FPdc. Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, dc across to FPdc, *FPdc around next FPdc, dc across to m, 2 dc in marked st, FPtr around next FPtr**, 2 dc in next st, dc across to FPdc, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to joinâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;48 dc, 4 FPdc, 4 FPtr. Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 4. Rnds 6â&#x20AC;&#x201C;16: Rep Rnds 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5â&#x20AC;&#x201D;176 dc, 4 FPtr, 4 FPdc at end of last rnd. Fasten off.

Flap Row 1: Ch 4 (counts as foundation st and first dc), 6 dc in 4th ch from hook, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;7 dc.

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Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;¢ Summer 2018

Row 2: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), FPtr around next st, 2 dc in next st, FPdc around next st, 2 dc in next st, FPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;6 dc, 1 FPdc, 2 FPtr. Row 3: (WS) Ch 3, BPtr around first st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, BPdc around next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, BPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;8 dc, 1 BPdc, 2 BPtr. Row 4: Ch 3, FPtr around next st, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, FPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;12 dc, 1 FPdc, 2 FPtr. Row 5: Ch 3, BPtr around next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts, BPdc around next st, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st, BPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;14 dc, 1 BPdc, 2 BPtr. Row 6: Ch 3, FPtr around next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st, FPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;16 dc, 1 FPdc, 2 FPtr. Row 7: Ch 3, BPtr around next st, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts, BPdc around next st, dc in next 6 sts, 3 dc in next st, BPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;20 dc, 1 BPdc, 2 BPtr. Row 8: Ch 3, FPtr around next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st, FPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;22 dc, 1 FPdc, 2 FPtr. Row 9: Ch 3, BPtr around next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts, BPdc around next st, dc in next 9 sts, 3 dc in next st, BPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;24 dc, 1 BPdc, 2 BPtr. Row 10: Ch 3, FPtr around next st, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 10 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next 10 sts, 3 dc in next st, FPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;28 dc, 1 FPdc, 2 FPtr. Row 11: Ch 3, BPtr around next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 12 sts, BPdc around next st, dc in next 12 sts, 2 dc in next st, BPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;30 dc, 1 BPdc, 2 BPtr. Row 12: Ch 3, FPtr around next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 13 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next 13 sts, 2 dc in next st, FPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;32 dc, 1 FPdc, 2 FPtr. Row 13: Ch 3, BPtr around next st, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 14 sts, BPdc around next st, dc in next 14 sts, 3 dc in next st, BPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;36 dc, 1 BPdc, 2 BPtr. Row 14: Ch 3, FPtr around next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 16 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next 16 sts, 2 dc in next st, FPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;38 dc, 1 FPdc, 2 FPtr. Row 15: Ch 3, BPtr around next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 17 sts, BPdc around next st, dc in next 17 sts, 2 dc in next st, BPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;40 dc, 1 BPdc, 2 BPtr.

Row 16: Ch 3, FPtr around next st, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 18 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next 18 sts, 3 dc in next st, FPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;44 dc, 1 FPdc, 2 FPtr. Row 17: Ch 3, BPtr around next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 20 sts, BPdc around next st, dc in next 20 sts, 2 dc in next st, BPtr around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;46 dc, 1 BPdc, 2 BPtr. Row 18: Ch 3, FPdc around next st, dc blo in next 45 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;47 dc, 2 FPdc. Row 19: Ch 3, BPdc around next st, dc in next 22 sts, BPdc around next st, dc in next 22 sts, BPdc around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;46 dc, 3 BPdc. Row 20: Ch 3, FPdc around next st, dc in next 22 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next 22 sts, FPdc around next st, dc in next st, turnâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;46 dc, 3 FPdc. Rows 21â&#x20AC;&#x201C;24: Rep Rows 19â&#x20AC;&#x201C;20 two times. Fasten off.

Side panel Ch 140. Row 1: (RS) Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each rem ch across, turn. Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;7: Ch 3, dc across, turn. Fasten off at end of last row.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

Assembly With WS front and side panel held tog, *sl st around, making sure stitches align. Rep from * with back and side panel. With WS held tog, sl st flap on top edge of back.

Edging and rings Beg at upper right-hand corner of back, with RS facing, work 49 sc evenly spaced across to center point of flap. Ch 11, sl st in last sc made (button lp), work 49 sc evenly spaced across to opposite corner of flap, [working in side panel row-ends, sc in next 2 row-ends, hdc in next row-end, working in ring, work 6 dc in ring (see Stitch Guide), hdc in next row-end, sc in next 2 row-ends], working across front, sc in each st across; rep bet [ ] 1 time. Fasten off. Sew button or closure to center of bag.

Tassels (Make 5) Cut a piece of cardboard 5" square. Wrap yarn to desired thickness around cardboard. Cut a short length of yarn and tie tightly around one end of wrapped yarn. Cut yarn loops at other end. Cut another piece of yarn and wrap tightly around loops a short distance below top knot to form tassel neck. Knot securely, thread ends onto tapestry needle, and pull to center of tassel. Trim ends. Sew to bottom of bag spaced about 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4" apart. Weave in ends. í·&#x20AC;

LEXI NELSON lives and designs in Minnesota with her husband and two busy toddlers. In her spare time, she enjoys baking and learning new crochet techniques.


Midsummer Maritime

Rnd 3: 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, change color to B (A) in last stâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;18 sc. Rnd 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] aroundâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;24 sc. Rnds 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6: Sc around, change color to C (D) in last st made. Rnds 7â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9: Sc around, change color to B (C) in last st made.

Join lobes:

Heart of the Sea Keychain Beth Ann Hulevitch

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 2Âź" wide and 2Âź" tall. YARN Lizbeth Size 10 Thread (distributed by Handy Hands) (100% Egyptian Cotton (122 yd [112 m]/0.88 oz [25 g]; ): #10-654 navy blue (A), #10-671 Christmas red (B), #10-602 natural (C), #10-611 gold (D), 1 ball each. HOOK Size 2 (2.25 mm) steel crochet hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle; sewing needle; coordinating sewing thread; iberill; key ring and chain, 2; 12 mm lobster clasp with jump ring, 2; beads (sample used: www.jesseejamesbeads.com); mini nautical silver charms (sample used: Hildie and Jo from www.Joann.com). GAUGE 8 sc and 8 rows = 1". See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Chain 1 at beginning of every row unless otherwise stated. Join rounds with slip stitch in first stitch unless otherwise stated. When changing colors, fasten off previous color unless otherwise stated. Weave in ends as work progresses. Stuff with fiberfill as work progresses. Use as many beads as needed to create the desired length of charms.

Pattern HEART LOBES (MAKE 2) Rnd 1: With C, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join in first st (see Notes)â&#x20AC;&#x201D;6 sc. Rnd 2: Ch 1 (see Notes), 2 sc in each st aroundâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;12 sc.

Rnd 10: Sc in next 21 sc on first lobe, leaving last 3 sc unworked (inside edge bet lobes), sc in next 21 sc on 2nd lobe, leaving rem 3 sc unworked. As work progresses, stuff fiberfill through the opening between the lobesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;42 sc. Rnd 11: Sc around. Rnd 12: [{Sc2tog} 2 times, sc in next 17 sts] 2 times, change color to C (A) in last st madeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;38 sc. Rnd 13: [{Sc2tog} 2 times, sc in next 15 sts] 2 timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;34 sc. Rnd 14: [Sc2tog, sc in next 15 sts] 2 timesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;32 sc. Rnd 15: [Sc in next 14 sts, sc2tog] 2 times, change color to B (D) in last st madeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;30 sc. Rnd 16: Sc2tog, sc in next 11 sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 11 sts, sc2togâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;26 sc. Rnd 17: Sc2tog, sc in next 9 sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 9 sts, sc2togâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;22 sc. Rnd 18: Sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, change color to C in last st madeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;18 sc. Rnd 19: Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 5 sts, sc2togâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;14 sc. Rnd 20: Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 3 sts, sc2togâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;10 sc. Rnd 21: [Sc2tog] aroundâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;5 sc. Fasten off, leaving a 5" length.

FINISHING Using rem length, whipstitch opening closed. With sewing needle and thread, sew keychain securely to top of heart. With sewing needle and thread, add beads to thread and tie one end of thread securely to lobster clasp jump ring, then tighten thread securely at end of last bead. Weave in ends. íˇ&#x20AC;

BETH HULEVITCH is an award-winning crochet designer from Connecticut. Her designs have been published in various magazines. She is inspired by abstract ideas with practical applications. In her spare time, she enjoys gardening and social media, and she was recently introduced to the art of spinning.

Pelagic Cover-Up Laurie Sand

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 28ž" tall and 51½" wide. YARN Aunt Lydiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Crochet Thread Classic 10 (distributed by Coats and Clark) (100% mercerized cotton; 350 yd [320 m]; ): #0210 antique white, 6 balls. HOOK Size 7 (1.65 mm) steel crochet hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS Yarn needle. GAUGE 3 pineapples and 2 lg V-sts and 20 rows = 6", blocked. See the Glossary on page 79 for terms you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. For our master glossary, visit http://bit.ly/iwc-glossary.

Notes Chain-3 at beginning of rows or rounds counts as first double crochet unless otherwise stated. When instructed to work in V-stitch, work in chain-space unless otherwise stated. Body of piece is worked in rows; edging and straps are worked in rounds.

Stitch Guide Large V-stitch (lg V-st): (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in indicated st or sp. V-stitch (V-st): (Dc, ch 4, dc) in indicated st or sp. Treble crochet cluster (tr cl): Yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull up lp, (yo, draw through 2 lps) 2 times, (yo 2 times, insert hook in same st or sp, yo, pull up lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps] 2 times) 2 times, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

Pattern BODY Ch 359 loosely. Row 1 (RS): Lg V-st (see Stitch Guide) in

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75


V-st, ch 7, sk next (3 dc, ch-4 sp, and 2 sc), sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 7, sk next (2 sc, ch-4 sp, and 3 dc); rep from * across, sc in last lg V-st, ch 2, dc in top of beg ch-3.

Edging: Rnd 1: Ch 1, rotate work 90 degrees, work 3 sc around dc just made, cont working in ends of rows, 3 sc in end of each row across to corner, 6 sc in corner sp, working in rem lps of beg ch, sc in each ch across to corner, 6 sc in corner sp, working in ends of rows, 3 sc in end of each row across to corner, (3 sc, ch 104, 3 sc) in corner sp, working across top edge, sc in each st and ch across to next corner, (3 dc, ch 104) in same corner sp as first 3 sc, sl st in first sc to join. Rnds 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch around, working 3 sc in each bottom corner, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off at end of last rnd.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Block. íˇ&#x20AC;

LAURIE SAND has been crocheting and knitting for more than twenty years and began designing patterns when she was unable to find patterns for projects she wanted to make. She is most inspired by making gifts for her friends and children, including clothing, pillows, and toys. Find her on Ravelry as lauriesand82.

Reduced body and edging patt < 85 84 > < 83 82 > <5 4> <3 2> <1

Stitch Key = chain (ch)

= tr cl

= V-st

= slip stitch (sl st) = single crochet (sc) = double crochet (dc)

76

Interweave Crochet â&#x20AC;˘ Summer 2018

= lg V-st

= patt rep

rep 19 times

Midsummer Maritime

5th ch from hook, *ch 4, sk next 7 ch, V-st (see Stitch Guide) in next ch, ch 4, sk next 7 ch, lg V-st in next ch; rep from * 21 times, sk next ch, dc in last ch, turn. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), sk next 3 dc, *lg V-st in next lg V-st, ch 2, sk next [3 dc, ch-4 sp, and dc], ({tr cl [see Stitch Guide], ch 3} 3 times, tr cl) in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sk next ch-4 sp and next 3 dc; rep from * across, lg V-st in last lg V-st, sk next 3 dc, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, sk next 3 dc, *lg V-st in next lg V-st, ch 3, sk next (3 dc, ch-2 sp, and tr cl), 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sk next tr cl, 2 sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, sk next (tr cl, ch-2 sp, and 3 dc); rep from * across, lg V-st in last lg V-st, sk next 3 dc, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, sk next 3 dc, *lg V-st in next lg V-st, ch 4, sk next (3 dc, ch-3 sp, and 2 sc), 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next 2 sc, 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 4, sk next (2 sc, ch-3 sp, and 3 dc); rep from * across, lg V-st in last lg V-st, sk next 3 dc, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, sk next 3 dc, *lg V-st in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, sk next (3 dc, ch-4 sp, and 2 sc), V-st in next ch-3 sp, ch 4, sk next (2 sc, ch-4 sp, and 3 dc); rep from * across, lg V-st in last lg V-st, sk next 3 dc, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Rows 6â&#x20AC;&#x201C;84: Rep Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 nineteen times, then rep Rows 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4 once more. Row 85: Ch 5, sk first 3 dc, *sc in next lg


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online

Salena Baca’s

Hook Up with Us on

Crochet Confessions

Pinterest!

We don’t judge; we’ve probably done it, too!

Andrea Lotz

You’re not alone, and it really does feel good to confess! Crocheters shared their deepest regrets, mishaps, and taboos with us live on Facebook. Here are our top three confessions, plus some thoughts on each one to help ease your conscience. THE YARN USUALLY WINS! Amanda W.—One time I lied to my bestie and said I was sick and couldn’t go out to our lunch date . . . but I really just wanted to crochet. She still doesn’t know.

Laugh and learn with us between issues of Interweave Crochet! You can easily stay on top of what’s new and trending in the world of crochet by following the Interweave Crochet Pinterest account. Find us by searching for “crochetmedaily” on www.Pinterest.com and selecting “Interweave Crochet” from the list when it shows up.

Without taking a mass poll, I’m going to speak for the crochet world and say that this is an unspoken commonality. Crochet has addictive powers, and when you’re in the zone, nothing short of a natural disaster can make you put your hook down!

THE NEVER-ENDING TEMPERATURE BLANKET Chris L.—I made a temperature blanket using hdc, and it’s long enough to double over like a sleep sack, and I’m ive foot eight. Temperature blankets are made by crocheting one row each day in a color that corresponds to the temperature outside. his temperature blanket ended up being over ten feet long! A great tip to consider: choose a stitch that will work for the length of time you’ll be working on your blanket. Single crochet could be best if you’ll be working on your blanket every day for a year (365 rows).

From there there, you can either follow our account to see all the awesome crochet tutorials, patterns, stitches, and inspiration we post daily or follow specific boards to see pins tailored to your interests. Crochet designers can also find the mood boards for our themed submission calls. HAPPY PINNING!

GRIPPING! Natalia J.—I didn’t know there was such a thing as a “knife grip” until a few years ago. I have a “pencil grip.” he two main grip styles are knife grip (holding your hook as though you’re cutting with a knife), and pencil grip (holding your hook as though you’re writing with a pencil). hese are the most common, but hold your hook in any way that feels natural and comfortable. SALENA BACA is the founder of the American Crochet Association and a crochet author and instructor with more than thirty years of crochet experience. Find her online at www.SalenaBacaCrochet.com.

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Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

ANDREA LOTZ is Interweave’s social media manager and a multi-craftual enthusiast with a passion for sharing the joys of crochet and other yarn crafts with the world.


glossary

glossary

Abbreviations beg bet blo CC ch cm cont dc dtr dec(s)(’d) est fdc flo foll fsc g hdc inc(s)(’d) k lp(s) MC m mm patt(s) pm p rem rep rev sc rnd(s) RS sc sk sl sl st sp(s) st(s) tch tog tr WS yd yo * () []

Standard Yarn Weight System*

begin(s); beginning between back loop only contrasting color chain centimeter(s) continue(s); continuing double crochet double treble crochet decrease(s); decreasing; decreased established foundation double crochet front loop only follows; following foundation single crochet gram(s) half double crochet increase(s); increasing; increased knit loop(s) main color marker millimeter(s) pattern(s) place marker purl remain(s); remaining repeat; repeating reverse single crochet round(s) right side single crochet skip slip slip(ped) stitch space(es) stitch(es) turning chain together treble crochet wrong side yard yarn over hook repeat starting point alternate measurements and/or instructions work bracketed instructions a specified number of times

Concentration Ratings:

0

Yarn: Fingering, 10-count crochet thread Gauge: 33–42 sts Hook (metric): 1.6–2.25 mm Hook (U.S.): 000 to B-1

1

Yarn: Sock, Fingering, Baby Gauge: 21–32 sts Hook (metric): 2.25–3.5 mm Hook (U.S.): B-1 to E-4

2

3

Yarn: Sport, Baby Gauge: 16–20 sts Hook (metric): 3.5–4.5 mm Hook (U.S.): E-4 to 7 Yarn: DK, Light Worsted Gauge: 12–17 sts Hook (metric): 4.5–5.5 mm Hook (U.S.): 7 to I-9

4

5

6

7

Yarn: Worsted, Afghan, Aran Gauge: 11–14 sts Hook (metric): 5.5–6.5 mm Hook (U.S.): I-9 to K-10½ Yarn: Chunky, Craft, Rug Gauge: 8–11 sts Hook (metric): 6.5–9 mm Hook (U.S.): K-10½ to M-13 Yarn: Super Bulky, Roving Gauge: 7–9 sts Hook (metric): 9-15 mm Hook (U.S.): M-13 to Q Yarn: Jumbo, Roving Gauge: 6 sts and fewer Hook (metric): 15 mm and larger Hook (U.S.): Q and larger

The Craft Yarn Council has set up guidelines to bring uniformity to yarn labels and published patterns. Yarn Weight: he yarn-weight symbols that appear in “sources for supplies” are based on the system outlined above. We have consulted the yarn label, the manufacturer’s website, and other resources to classify these yarns as accurately as possible. *Guidelines only: he above relect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for speciic yarn categories.

Crochet Gauge To check gauge, chain 30 to 40 stitches using recommended hook size. Work in pattern stitch until piece measures at least 4" (10 cm) from foundation chain. Lay swatch on flat surface. Place a ruler over swatch and count number of stitches across and number of rows down (including fractions of stitches and rows) in 4" (10 cm). Repeat two or three times on different areas of swatch to confirm measurements. If you have more stitches and rows than called for in instructions, use a larger hook; if you have fewer, use a smaller hook. Repeat until gauge is correct.

PLUS SIZE

Look for this icon to indicate garments that include XL sizes.

BASIC Projects using basic stitches. May include basic increases and decreases. EASY Projects may include simple stitch patterns, color work, and/or shaping. INTERMEDIATE Projects may include involved stitch patterns, color work, and/or shaping. COMPLEX Projects may include complex stitch patterns, color work, and/or shaping using a variety of techniques and stitches simultaneously.

Oops! Visit www.interweave.com/interweave-errata-corrections for corrections to all issues of Interweave Crochet.

For our complete master glossary, visit

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79


project index

Blue-on-Blue Sweater

Ombré Nesting Baskets

Shibori Pillow

Pages 8, 12

Pages 10, 14

Pages 11, 15

Light of Day Tote

Daybreak Espadrilles

First Light Rug

Basking Crossbody Bag

Pages 22, 26

Pages 23, 27

Pages 24, 30

Pages 25, 32

Yesteryear Top

Ever-New Skirt

Time-Honored Sweater

Coastal Tunic

Aquatic Swimsuit

Pages 34, 38

Pages 36, 41

Pages 37, 44

Pages 50, 60

Pages 52, 63

Saltwater Top

Cruising Wrap

Going Ashore Shawl

Pages 54, 68

Pages 55, 70

Pages 56, 72

Seafaring Shorts

Sailorly Tote Pages 57, 73

Heart of the Sea Keychain Pages 58, 75

Pelagic Cover-Up

Pages 53, 66

80

Interweave Crochet • Summer 2018

Pages 59, 75


Retro flare WITH A

MODERN TWIST!

MODERN

BoOheCmHiaETn CR

T STITCHES UNIQUE CROCHE STYLE for FREE-SPIRITED

Beth Nielsen

Create an entire collection of eclectic C garments and accessories with author g and award-winning designer Beth Nielsen. a Each pattern allows you to explore unique Ea stitch patterns in unexpected ways. From st light layers and silkier yarns to projects lig with serious warmth and style, this collecw tion will have you crocheting all year long. ti

9781632502872 | $22.99 | 128 Pages

www.interweave.com


Interweave Crochet 17/5/18  
Interweave Crochet 17/5/18  
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