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68

NEW ZEALAND MADE

IS SUE

O CTOBER–NOV E M B E R 2 0 16

CHICKEN DINNERS light & luscious

grain sensation new risottos

COCKTAIL TWIST a tea takeover

joys of spring fresh seasonal flavour PUY LENTIL CHICKEN SALAD WITH APPLE AND HAZELNUTS page 63

+ baking nostalgia

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IT’S OU R FI FTH BI RTH DAY AN D WE HAVE MU C H TO C E L E B RAT E W ITH 8 0 E V E N T S OV E R 10 GLORIOUS H AWKE’S BAY DAYS!

Tickets on sale now Book at www.fawc.co.nz


Summer F.A.W.C! Vegestation at St Georges Restaurant, Havelock North


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Enjoy signature dishes from our hottest restaurants: FISH

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100+ Artisanal Producers X12 Live Bands X18 Chef Demonstrations XNew for 2016: Electrolux Chefs’ Secret As well as a delicious selection of craft beers & boutique wine from around New Zealand.

Tickets from $25 at tasteofauckland.co.nz #tasteofauckland


CONTENTS Issue 68, October–November 2016

Features 30

L OV E & S E R E N D I P I T Y

Authentic Lebanese food with a cheffy twist comes to Auckland’s K’ Road 36

A NEW LEAF

Dish jumps on board the tea renaissance and adds some cocktails to the mix 44

GOING GREEK

Cookbook author Kathy Tsaples shares some culinary love from Greece 122

PLATE-HOPPING IN PORTUGAL

A trip to Portugal will always include fish, fish and more fish, plus some sweet surprises

Recipes 60

SPRING CHICKEN

Light and luscious meals to straddle the seasons 68

RISE AND SHINE

Make every morning a super one with wholefood breakfasts 72

RISOTTO REVOLUTION

Exciting new ways with risotto 80

THE CRUMPET CRAZE

110

Be on trend and make your own 82

31

PICKLE POWER

Add zing to every plate 90

HAVING A BALL

Sarah Tuck’s meatball makeover 96

NUTS AND SEEDS

Delicious ways with one of nature’s tiny powerhouses 104 AFTERNOON DELIGHT

Settle in for some sweet respite 110

EASY EVERYDAY

Simple weeknight meals 128

TO FINISH…

Three Citrus Slice

68 DISH

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CONTENTS

Issue 68, October–November 2016

108

61 Every issue

39

9

FROM THE EDITOR

13

SIDE DISHES

20

WHAT’S ON

22

BOOKS

26

DISH ONLINE

51

TASTING PANEL – PINOT GRIS

119

WINDOW SHOPPING

126

KITCHEN NOTES

127

RECIPE INDEX

Views 48

JULIE BIUSO

In season: avocados 56

YVONNE LORKIN

By the glass

Subscribe 29

85 6 DISH

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Issue 68, October–November 2016

A

FOLLOW US

Get the latest from Dish – follow us online at dish.co.nz. Like us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter to see behind the scenes and Dish out and about.

DISH.CO.NZ DISH MAGAZINE

DISHMAGNZ

Background photograph by Josh Griggs. Copper tray and blush napkins from Nest (nest-direct.co.nz). Large bowl from Country Road (countryroad.com.au). Finch bowl from Citta (cittaadesign.com).

@DISHMAGAZINE

s we brainstormed for this, our spring issue, it was revealed the Dish team is split exactly in half on who favours hot sunny days and who prefers to wallow in the winter months. Debate ensued on the comforts of casseroles and roast dinners versus the pure pleasures of fresh seafood and salads (here at Dish everything ends up being about food). But the one thing the whole team could agree on was the absolute joy of spring – these transition months bring with them a whole new raft of flavours that speak to both sensibilities; sunny days, crisp nights. Nutrition is on many people’s minds at this time of year, as we ready ourselves for longer days – Kelly Gibney’s wholefood breakfasts (page 68), including a morning salad option and make-ahead baked oats, are the perfect set-up. Food editor Claire Aldous continues the nourishment with delicious ways to use some of nature’s most potent little goodies – nuts and seeds (page 96). In “Risotto Revolution” she also comes up with some delicious alternatives to traditional rice for this Italian favourite. Sarah Tuck also gets creative with some exciting combinations in her meatball makeover (page 90). As the new-season produce begins to compete for space with the old, Jane Lyons makes sure nothing is wasted in a pickling feature that celebrates the power of sour (page 82). The Dish team have been slightly tea-obsessed in the last few months as we’ve sipped our way through many flavoursome brews. We meet the people behind some of the new boutique companies that are transforming the humble cuppa into something to savour in “A New Leaf” (page 36). It’s always nice to end on a sweet note – so take a trip down memory lane with Claire’s nostalgic baking treats (page 104) for a wistful afternoon tea. Enjoy,

Lisa Morton, Editor LISA@DISH.CO.NZ

DISH

9


WWW.FARROFRESH.CO.NZ

Editor Lisa Morton lisa@dish.co.nz

INSPIRATION IN STORE EVERYDAY AT FARRO FRESH

Food Editor Claire Aldous claire@dish.co.nz Deputy Editor Nikki Birrell nikki@dish.co.nz Staff Writer Jane Lyons Wine Writer Yvonne Lorkin Online Editor India Essuah india@dish.co.nz Art Director Kendyl Middelbeek Designer Karryn Muschamp Props Stylist Lianne Whorwood

FIND ALL YOUR HARD TO FIND INGREDIENTS AND THE BEST OF LOCAL ARTISAN PRODUCERS

Retouchers Paul Dragicevich Daryl Simonson Contributors Julie Biuso, Bryce Carleton, Kathy Tsaples, Kelly Gibney, Josh Griggs, John Laurie, Catherine McGregor, Aaron McLean, Sarah Tuck, Manja Wachsmuth Cover Food and food styling by Claire Aldous. Photography by Josh Griggs. SUBSCRIPTIONS

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SIDE DISHES What’s new, news and necessary for your kitchen

ON THE BOIL

Photography by Bryce Carleton. Styling by Kendyl Middelbeek.

Not only is tea having quite a time of it in the limelight lately, its implements, from kettles to cups and all in between, bring a whole new level of lovely to the kitchen and table.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Menu teapot $149 and Mast chocolate from $7, from Simon James Concept Store (simonjamesdesign.com); Riess kettle $154.95

from Milly’s Kitchen (millyskitchen.co.nz); mustard canister $15.99 from Shut the Front Door (shutthefrontdoor.co.nz); Gidon Bing mug $36 from Simon James Concept Store and cork coasters $6 each from Everyday Needs (everyday-needs.co.nz); Belgian linen tea towel $35 from Everyday Needs; Olio Teapot by BarberOsgerby x Royal Doulton $119 and Fort Standard trivet $145 from Douglas and Bec (douglasandbec.com); peach cup $12.99 from Shut the Front Door and Kat and Roger painted cup $94 from Douglas and Bec.

DISH

13


SIDE DISHES

Desert days Let Citta’s Palm Springs-inspired collection transport you to the modernist glamour of Hollywood’s ’50s playground and the dusty tones of the wilderness. cittadesign.com

NEW ZEALAND IN A BOTTLE Aotea Tonics are a

culmination of traditional Māori herbal remedies and now contain even more goodness to nourish the body. Choose from four flavours: Kawakawa, to soothe the stomach; Tea Tree, to clear the head and bring clarity; Horopito, to help de-stress; and lastly Kūmarahou, Aotea’s original wellness tonic. Each is made by brewing herbs, leaves, roots, adding a twist of fresh citrus and about one teaspoon of mānuka honey to each. Free from artificial flavours, concentrates, preservatives and processed sugars, they can be enjoyed hot or cold. To find your nearest stockist, visit aoteatonics.co.nz.

DUNEDIN CRAFT BEER

PARTY PICK Throwing a soirée but not keen on the dishes? Look the part without the clean-up. Liberty Betsy Party Straws Meri Meri, $14, Liberty Betsy Plates Meri Meri (small), $11. Available from collected.co.nz 14 D I SH

SOUTHERN COMFORTS More than 77 vendors will satisfy all your brown-fizz and foodie needs at the fourth annual Dunedin Craft Beer & Food Festival, held on November 12 at Forsyth Barr Stadium. Your tastebuds will be treated to great food, including that of culinary star Josh Emett from Madam Woo, and your ears to the harmonious sounds of Fly My Pretties. All your favourite brewers will be on hand – Behemoth Brewing Company, Emerson’s Brewery, Epic Brewing Company and Garage Project to name but a few – plus, there will be three seminars to enhance your liquid knowledge. And if you fancy entering your best brew in to the homebrew competition, head to dunedinbeerfest.co.nz for details. Bottoms up!


After seven generations, you know they’ve learnt a thing or two. NATURE’S NECTAR Who knew honey

could be so technical? To cut a long story short, The True Honey Co. has gone to great lengths to ensure what’s in their jars is of the most premium quality and high potency manuka honey. Plus, they’re all about sustainability and caring for the environment and committed to bee conservation through education, teaming up with the Garden to Table Trust to develop resources around the role bees play in pollination. And the taste? Honey, it’s good. See truehoney.co.nz.

Açaí berries have the highest antioxidant level of any other berry on the planet. Start your day right by adding the frozen pulp to a smoothie or blend with honey and top with fruits and nuts. Deliciously good for you. Riversea Açaí Pulp, from Brazil, available from Farro Fresh, RRP$29.99.

SAMPLING AUCKLAND’S FARE IMAGINE IF YOU COULD POP into some of Auckland’s most popular restaurants all in a row to sample some of their fare? You can at Taste of Auckland. The line-up this year sees the return of many favourites. Chef Andrew Mackle of Depot Eatery (above left) says he’s gearing up for some serious shucking. “[We] will be bringing the energy of our Federal Street raw bar to Taste of Auckland – nothing overly precious or pretentious, just thousands of freshly shucked tuatua and oysters. Enjoy natural, with a little shallot chardonnay vinegar or smash a Virgin Bloody Mary shooter or three … need we say more?” There are new additions, too, and Dish is excited to see what Nick Honeyman (above right) from Paris Butter, Auckland’s newest French-inspired bistro, brings to the table. “Keeping it simple and tasty is what we are about and one dish you can expect to see there is our take on escargot using shell clams, which is one of my all-time favourites. ... We can’t wait to wow you with our Paris Butter dishes,” says Nick. 17–20 November, Western Springs. See tasteofauckland.co.nz for more.

The Wüsthof family of Solingen, in Germany, began producing quality, handmade knives in 1814. Since then, the family has proven just as enduring as their knives. Ikon is the jewel of the Wüsthof collection. With beautiful white synthetic handles, these knives are precision-forged from an exclusive high-carbon, stainfree steel and feature a distinctive, double bolster for exceptional balance. Wüsthof knives represent old ideals, honest craft, and precision engineering. They’re about what you’d expect from Milly’s.

Serious cookware since 1983 PONSONBY: 273 Ponsonby Rd, Ph: (09) 376 1550, PARNELL: Level 1 165 The Strand, Ph: (09) 309 1690 ONLINE: www.millyskitchen.co.nz


SIDE DISHES

MAMMA MIA Bring a taste of Italy home with some authentic artisan treats. Filotea pasta is made according to an ancient recipe from Marche, with a flavour typical of homemade pasta. Casa Vecchio Mulino flat breads and grissini add delicious crunch to an antipasto board. Both available from souschef. co.nz or head to the Sous Chef store at 84 Spartan Road, Takanini, Auckland.

LEAN AND LOVELY There was a time when venison was largely relegated in our minds to restaurant meals but these days it’s getting much easier to whip up this beautifully tender meat at home. Duncan Venison is a 100 per cent New Zealand company that has recently made their venison available to consumers via their website. Not just content to bring this lean and healthy meat into the homes of Kiwis, co-owners Vinnie and Andrew Duncan are using the success of their business to give something back. A percentage of all New Zealand sales are being donated directly to two causes: Outward Bound NZ Ltd, and Arusha Children’s Effort, who provide for street children in Arusha, Tanzania. So you really can feel good in every way when tucking in. Order from duncan-nz.com.

BLISS IN A BALL Rather

Strike gold in the kitchen with these luxurious graters from paperplanestore. co.nz. RRP $28

than reaching for a sugar or caffeine fix in a midafternoon slump try a Health Lab Protein Ball. Made from raw, natural ingredients and free from gluten and refined sugar, these energising little nuggets will get you back on track. Available in six flavours and sold individually or in tubes of five. Available from naturalthings.co.nz.


TOAST MARTINBOROUGH

Photo by Mike Heydon

FROM FARM TO TABLE

RAISE YOUR GLASS It’s happy 25th anniversary to Toast Martinborough this year so there’s

more reason than ever to… er, toast Martinborough. This now well-established festival, celebrating the region’s renowned vineyards, is an opportunity to spend a magic weekend in the Wairarapa to sample some of the country’s most delicious food and wine. And all set to great music and plenty of conviviality. This year promises to be a sophisticated event to mark the 25-year milestone. Festival general manager Anna Nielson says, “Back in 1992, when Toast began, Shortland Street had just come on our TVs, The Bodyguard album was number one and asparagus rolls and seafood vol-au-vents were on the menu. It’s great to be able to look back and keep elements that make Toast Martinborough such a unique experience but also step things up significantly to celebrate our coming of age in style.” Toast Martinborough – Sunday 20 November. Tickets available at ticketek.co.nz. For more information about the festival line-up, head to facebook.com/toastmart.

These whimsical collaborations between French design house Astier de Villatte and two NewYork based design houses – illustrator John Derian and designers Patch NYC – are picture-perfect. From $119 each at corso.co.nz.

The results of the Farmers Markets New Zealand 2016 Winter Food Awards are in and as delicious as ever. A total of six different categories were judged over two days and the entries came from all around the country. Farmers’ markets are a wonderful excursion to pick up some of the freshest produce imagineable – the winter food awards celebrate the best of the best and how this wonderful produce is put to use. Get thee to a farmers’ market pronto:

WINTER WINNERS

1 ST

• Fresh Produce from the Paddock S H Dods & Co from Gisborne for parsnips • Best Produce from the Kitchen Bench Neudorf Mushrooms from Nelson for reconsitututed mushroom soup • Fresh Produce from the Water Kiwi Kai from Nelson for creamy oyster and snapper pie • Tastiest Produce from the Butchery Cardrona Merino from Otago for lamb spare ribs • Creamiest Produce from the Dairy Cartwheel Creamery from Feilding with Marama cheese • Tastiest Nut Products Torere Macadamia from Gisborne for macadamia pesto


EVERY BIT EXTRAORDINARY


EVENT

EVENT DETAILS WHERE: Chim Choo Ree, 14 Bridge Street, Hamilton

DINE with DISH

WHEN: Monday 14th November, 6.00pm arrival, for 6.30pm start

YEALANDS at CHIM CHOO REE

PRICE:  $125 per person (canapés and four courses with matching wines)

Join us for a very special night of wining and dining with Yealands at Chim Choo Ree.

TO BOOK:  Phone 07 839 4329 or email chimchooree.hamilton@gmail.com. Credit card details may be required.

Don’t miss the chance to experience an exceptional evening of award-winning wines from Yealands, matched with a delicious menu at Hamilton’s Chim Choo Ree. The evening will be hosted by Dish editor Lisa Morton and Yealands chief winemaker Jeff Fyfe, who will guide diners through the unique food and wine matches. The canapés and four-course menu, designed and executed by Chim Choo Ree’s co-owner and chef Cameron Farmilo, will be matched with a premium selection of Yealands Estate wines, including an exclusive preview of new vintage releases. Chim Choo Ree’s menu for this Dine with Dish event promises to be an exclusive experience of unique wines matched to fantastic food.

YEALANDS CHIEF WINEMAKER: JEFF FYFE

ADV2016

Having grown up in Marlborough, Jeff is the perfect person to understand the unique terroir of the Awatere Valley, Marlborough’s southernmost valley where the Yealands Estate Winery is located. Experienced in both local and international vintages, Jeff joined the award-winning Yealands Wine Group in 2009. Dedicated to redefining the boundaries of excellence, he now leads the Yealands team as chief winemaker. Jeff relishes the new opportunities that each vintage brings, to capture the distinctive qualities of exceptional fruit, transformed into beautiful wines.

DON’T MISS OUT — SEATS ARE LIMITED SO BOOK YOUR TICKETS EARLY.


WHAT’S ON Food and wine events to mark in your diary

OCTOBER Saturday 1 October

Thursday 17 to Sunday 20 November

KAIKOURA SEAFEST

TASTE OF AUCKLAND

This one-day event is a celebration of Kaikoura’s abundant seafood, including the famous, much-loved cray. Get your fill of kaimoana, plus learn something new at chef demonstrations, and tuck into other great local fare, as well as enjoy regional wines, craft beers and live music. seafest.co.nz

This four-day showcase of fine food, wine and beer allows you to try signature dishes from some of Auckland’s most exciting restaurants in a beautiful al fresco setting at Western Springs. tasteofauckland.co.nz Thursday 10 to Sunday 13 November TASTE OF MELBOURNE

Saturday 22 & Sunday 23 October

A sister event to Taste of Auckland, the Pelican Lawn in Melbourne’s Albert Park will host popular restaurants so punters can sample some of Melbourne’s famed dining scene. tasteofmelbourne.com.au

PACIFIC BEER EXPO

Wellington’s most picturesque beer festival returns to The Boatshed for two days, showcasing the most exciting craft breweries from the Pacific Rim. pacificbeerexpo.co.nz

Sunday 20 November TOAST MARTINBOROUGH

Saturday 22 & Sunday 23 October

Set among the vines of boutique Martinborough vineyards, this is a chance to sample world-class wines and fine food over the course of one entertainment-filled day. toastmartinborough.co.nz

GISBORNE WINE & FOOD WEEKEND

This year’s celebration marks 20 years of sampling the best of Gisborne’s wine and food at winery cellar doors. Visit ticketek. co.nz for tickets and bus passes.

DISH EVENTS

NOVEMBER Saturday 4 to Sunday 13 November F.A.W.C SUMMER

The Food and Wine Classic Summer Series offers dozens of events around Hawke’s Bay with a host of the country’s leading chefs, winemakers and brewers taking part. This year’s highlights include Pranzare – an Italian long lunch with Michael Van de Elzen and Pask Winery at The Old Church in Napier. See fawc.co.nz for more. Saturday 12 November DUNEDIN CRAFT BEER & FOOD FESTIVAL

This annual festival, in its fourth year, celebrates great New Zealand food and craft beer – as well as wines and cider. Local Dunedin breweries present their wares alongside breweries from around New Zealand and overseas, plus there’s live music and plenty of top-notch food vendors showcasing local fare. dunedinbeerfest.co.nz

Monday 14 November DINE WITH DISH AND YEALANDS ESTATE – HAMILTON

Don’t miss the chance to experience very special wines from Yealands matched with a delicious menu at Chim Chee Roo in Hamilton. See page 19 for details.

DISH EVENTS ONLINE

DISH WEEKLY E-NEWSLETTER

Keep up to date with foodie events at dish.co.nz

Get your regular fix of recipes, news and upcoming events. Sign up at dish.co.nz/newsletter


BOOKS Reviewed by Nikki Birrell and Jane Lyons

Milk. Made. BY NICK HADDOW

Say cheese and we here at Dish always smile. So we were grinning from ear to ear when this gem of a book made its way to our desks. Milk. Made. is “a book about cheese. How to choose, serve it and eat it”. Its author, Nick Haddow, is the founder of Brun Island Cheese in Australia so he knows a thing or two about all things made of milk. There is information galore in here; from a breakdown of what is in milk, a look at the animals it comes from, chapters on butter and yoghurt, then everything you need to know and what equipment is essential if you want to give cheesemaking a go yourself, including fromage blanc, ricotta, paneer, feta and even a more tricky white mould cheese. But along with all that know-how comes recipes that celebrate dairy in all its creamy glory – Brown Butter Ice Cream; Blue Cheese Souffles with Pickled Cherry and Hazelnut Salad; and Ricotta Gnudi with Buttery Peas are all going on our must-try list. There are even recipes for using up the whey, if you’ve managed to give the cheesemaking a go – whey pops, whey hot toddy, whey and soured cream bread. A bit cheesy but whey-st not, want not, as they say. Hardie Grant Books – $59.99 (hb) 22 D I SH

Super Food Family Classics

Lamingtons & Lemon Tart

BY JAMIE OLIVER

BY DARREN PURCHESE

He’s done it again. Another moreish, accessible looking book from Jamie Oliver – but this time the recipes are packed with nutrient-dense superfoods for all the family. So while everyone’s tucking into Sesame Butterflied Chicken with Peanut Sauce, Asian Slaw & Rice Noodles or perhaps Sweet Potato Fishcakes with Chopped Salad and Feta & Red Pepper Salsa, they’re doing their body a service. The idea of the book is classic comfort dishes “rewritten, tested and edited to make sure they fit bang into my super-food philosophy,” writes Mr Affable himself. There’s a chapter of timesaving “Kitchen Hacks” and loads of tips for storage and what can be made ahead. Breakfast, Quick Fixes, Healthy Classics, Salads, Curries & Stews, Traybakes, Pasta & Risotto and Soups are all covered off and Jamie lets us know in each recipe introduction just what nutritional benefits you’ll soon be scoffing. Penguin Random House New Zealand – $65 (hb)

Okay, so if you’re after whipping up a wee bit of afternoon tea, this is probably not the book for you. If you really love baking and are looking to take your skills to new heights, look no further. This is serious baking. Hailed as Australia’s Willy Wonka, Darren Purchese is one of the country’s top pastry chefs. His cutting-edge approach to all things sweet and his use of innovative techniques have seen him push the patisserie scene to the limits in recent years. But in this title, he takes a step back from the stunning and scientific and turns his attention to classics with a Darren-esque twist. Think Explosive Raspberry Wagon Wheels, Gin and Tonic Tarts, Cannelé and Pimped Up Banana, Chocolate and Mango Bread. A challenge, maybe, but you won’t be thrown completely in the deep end – Darren shares his knowledge throughout the book with tips and easyto-read guides to take you through key processes like tempering chocolate, rolling pastry and so much more. Hardie Grant Books – $54.99 (hb)


VErTUMNUS veRTUMNUS SEASONAL rELEASE

Posh Eggs BY LUCY O’REILLY

Much-loved Italian food god Antonio Carluccio’s culinary wisdom is the gift that just keeps on giving. In this latest scrumptious bible – the 25th book he’s written – he pays tribute to plantbased pals with beautiful recipes that showcase all that vegetables have to offer when used as the main feature of a meal. Influenced by childhood memories of foraging for wild vegetables in the Italian countryside, Carluccio’s genuine passion for “exploiting the delicacy and deliciousness” of all vegetables is inspiring. Divided into six beautiful sections – Greens, Root Vegetables, Vegetable Fruits, Pulses and Grains, Herbs, Spices and Nuts and Mushrooms and Truffles – Carluccio provides gorgeous recipes as well as informative guides to getting the most out of each veg, from root to stalk. With dishes such as Swiss Chard and Artichoke Tart; Fennel and Prawn Linguine; Sweet and Sour Pickled Onions; and Cod Marinated with Dill, Carluccio’s recipes seem to encapsulate all that is Italian food – simple, delicious and effortlessly beautiful. Quadrille Books – $45 (hb)

While this title may not be a new release (it was published in June this year), we couldn’t help but include it in the line-up as eggs have long been associated with the beginning of spring and, more to the point, we absolutely love eggs and we’re having a bit of a moment with them right now. There are so many lovely ideas in this cute wee book, which takes you from breakfast, through lunch and snacks, on to supper and finally desserts and drinks. While the title may have the word posh in it, there’s nothing pretentious or complicated in here. In fact, this is the type of book that will actually be used, time and again. There are the usual suspects – baked eggs, scotch eggs, eggs bene, savoury and sweet souffles (many with great flavour additions) – but there are also lots of dishes that may not be in your repertoire… yet. Think Parmesan Custards, Lemon & Egg Soup, Pink Pickled Eggs, Souffled Apple & Raspberry Omelette. Without a doubt at some point you’ll be thinking, “oh, I’d quite like to make that”. Quadrille – $34.99 (hb)

BY MARIANNE MAGNIERMORENO AND ANNE CAZOR

As the title may suggest – this is as much a stepby-step guide to mastering the fundamentals of good cooking as it is a cookbook. And, at first, we may have been a bit big for our boots, thinking perhaps it might not apply to us as seasoned cooks – ahem. Looking through the “Base Recipes”, we soon realised there was some know-how that could come in mighty handy. There’s an “Understand” page where a base recipe or cooking method – velouté, for example – is explained and its parts dissected, then a “Learn” page, where step-by-step pictures help you create the recipe. If you don’t know your julienne cut from your paysanne, – you soon will. Move into the “Recipes” section and you’ll conquer feats such as Eggs in Aspic and Confit of Salmon – even making a burger is given the madefrom-scratch treatment. If you have cheffy aspirations or you’re planning to participate in a television cooking show, you just found your study manual. Hardie Grant Books – $64.99 (hb)

5.6% ALC / VOL

.S E .H SN OP L I PED P

U

BY ANTONIO CARLUCCIO

The Ultimate Cook’s Manual

R

Vegetables

MALTY

HOPPY

LIGHT

DArK

sweet

bitter

Vertumnus is Emerson’s tribute to the land that gave us the hot dog, the Kardashians and spray-on cheese. Bursting with sassy, flavoursome US hops, Vertumnus is dry-hopped to deliver a bitter, crisp and slightly stronger-than-usual Pilsner. A New Zealand-made, American-style beer. Who better to name it after than a Roman god?

AVAILABLE AT SELECTED BOTTLE STOrES For A LIMITED TIME

BOrN & BrEWED


whole lot of love Healthy, flavoursome smoothies made with Lewis Road Creamery’s permeate-free milk are wholefood writer Kelly Gibney’s go-to choice to start the day.

y family and I are big fans of the Lewis Road Creamery products. When it comes to milk I choose theirs every time. Firstly, it’s flavour. The taste is luscious and rich and reminds me of dairy when I was a kid (the days of glass bottles). I also value all the information I get from the packaging. Whether it’s organic, or premium non-organic during the winter months, I feel good knowing there is that transparency. I really applaud Lewis Road Creamery’s permeate-free stance. This by-product is an unnecessary filler lowering the purity of milk and it’s found in many other brands on the market, most of which you’d never know because there isn’t labelling about such things. With Lewis Road Premium Milk, I know there is just milk in the bottle. Lovely, lightly handled fresh milk bottled on the farm. One of my favourite ways to enjoy Lewis Road Creamery premium milk is in breakfast smoothies. Enjoyed on-thego during the week and savoured slowly on lazy weekend mornings, it’s a really lovely way to start the day. A base of fullfat milk ensures they are nice and filling – a healthy dose of fat and protein to get my loved ones through their day. I keep the blends simple and the added sweetener to a minimum. Just the best ingredients and a whole lot of love.

M


Vanilla, Walnut, Honey and Oat 250ml Lewis Road Creamery Premium Homogenised Milk 2 teaspoons honey ¼ cup oats ¼ cup walnuts, soaked overnight in a bowl of cold water, drained and rinsed ½ teaspoon good-quality vanilla essence large handful ice Combine all ingredients in a blender and blitz until smooth. Serve immediately. Serves 1

Cacao, Almond Butter and Banana

Berries and Mint

250ml Lewis Road Creamery Premium Homogenised Milk 1 frozen banana, cut into chunks 2 tablespoons almond butter 1 rounded teaspoon raw cacao powder large handful ice

250ml Lewis Road Creamery Premium Homogenised Milk, plus extra 1 frozen banana, cut into chunks ¾ cup frozen berries (I used a blend of frozen blueberries and raspberries) small handful fresh mint leaves

Combine all ingredients in a blender and blitz until smooth. Serve immediately. Serves 1

Combine all ingredients in a blender and blitz until smooth. Serve immediately. Serves 1


DISH ONLINE Dishing up the latest news, reviews and recipes

Weekly e-news Online editor India Essuah keeps you up to date with recipe inspiration, tips, stories, events reviews and amazing competitions. Ensure you’re the first to hear the news by visiting dish.co.nz/newsletter

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LAST NIGHT’S DINNER Stay in the know with our restaurant reviews where we share the new openings we’re excited about, as well as long-time favourites. Whether you need a new cafe to visit this weekend or are after somewhere to grab a Friday night burger, it’s well worth having a rifle through this section – which you’ll find under People & Places – to discover your new favourite spot.

Green Mondays Every week, food writer Kelly Gibney shares a recipe that’s packed with not only as much flavour as possible, but fresh, wholesome ingredients too. Find her collection on our homepage.

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TIGER BURGER

A WELL-FED NEWSFEED Joining us on our Facebook page is the best way to keep track of our new Friday Baking recipes, dinner ideas and giveaways. It’s also the simplest way to share them with friends. Click “Like” on our profile and watch as tempting food appears in your newsfeed, day after day, after day…

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Follow us on Instagram for daily updates from out and about and behind-the-scenes snaps. If you make something from the magazine share it with us by tagging us – @dishmagnz. We love to see what you’re cooking and share our favourite images of yours too.

Sarah Tuck’s beautiful photography has been inspiring our dinners and desserts for a while now and we’re lucky to have her creating recipes for our website. Find her lush desserts and scrumptious dinners in her dedicated recipe collection as well as in our newsletter.

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BREAD AND OIL perfectly paired The Village Press 2016 Extra Virgin Olive Oils are the perfect accompaniment to Loaf’s Volcanic Ciabatta dinner rolls.

The Village Press 2016 Extra Virgin Olive Oils are now available at all good food stores, including Nosh and Farro Fresh, and online at thevillagepress.co.nz

More than just a dressing St Andrews Limes range of delicious home-grown, hand-made products are now available from their online store. To celebrate the launch of St Andrews Limes new online store, buy one 300ml bottle of Just a Dressing and you’ll get another 300ml bottle free – plus a special gift with purchase.

www.limes.co.nz Enter the code DISH when ordering

Just a Dressing an addictive sweet, garlic vinaigrette. Use over green and roast vegetables, salads or as a spread on a sandwich.


To celebrate our birthday and say thanks for

20 years we’re giving away

1 million points. Be in to win a share every time you earn Fly Buys from 1st – 30th September. See flybuys.co.nz for more details.

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THIS PAGE: Samir Allen with his mother Liane Farry outside Gemmayze St. OPPOSITE PAGE:

Knefe is a stunning shredded filo and sweet cheese dessert on the Gemmayze St menu.

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PROFILE

VI S I T Gemmayze St, St Kevin’s Arcade, 183 K’ Rd, Auckland

love & serendipity At just 25, chef Samir Allen has his own Lebanese restaurant on Auckland’s K’ Road. While good fortune and timing played their part, it’s his talent for cooking and love of food, themes which run deep in his family, that keep the crowds coming back. Story — NIK K I BIRRELL / Photography — JOSH GRIGGS

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THIS PAGE: Samir Allen

with chef Ryan Pearce. OPPOSITE PAGE: The fit-out of Gemmayze St was largely done by Samir, family and friends.

uck seems to have played a large part in the opening of Lebanese restaurant Gemmayze St. According to chef Samir Allen’s brother, Nat, it’s a common theme in his brother’s life. “Samir has this weird timing thing where everything just comes together for him, like a bouquet of flowers,” he says, to which Samir and their mother Liane Farry, who runs the front of house at the restaurant, erupt in laughter.

L

A year or two previously, Samir had been living downstairs from St Kevin’s Arcade while working at fine-dining restaurant The Grove and studying hospitality at AUT. “I used to sit at what was then Alleluya cafe on my day off and look at this space [where Gemmayze St is now] and I could just see it…” So when he received a random email from a realtor while travelling in Bali with his girlfriend saying, “I hear you want to open a Lebanese place. We have vacancies in St Kevin’s Arcade and here’s the floor plan, which space do you want?” – Samir says, “We just looked at each other and said ‘gotta go’.” Turns out it was his brother who’d given that realtor Samir’s email address. As business manager of Moreporks clothing company he’d been

approached to put a store in one of the spaces up front at the arcade and had spoken of his chef brother and his Lebanese restaurant dream. It was a dream Samir had only really been toying with, thinking of it some way off in the future. “I’d been sending Nat menus while I was travelling. You know ‘what do you think of this dish?’, ‘what do you think of that?’. Just playing.” And now suddenly here was this opportunity in his lap, designated to the exact spot he’d daydreamed about. He jumped on a plane home. But the serendipity doesn’t end there. Samir comes from a long line of hospitality, starting with the family’s first restaurant in Gore in 1947. The Farrys of Dunedin are well-known in the community – Samir’s grandfather owned Wains Hotel in Dunedin and was president of the New Zealand Hotel Association for years. He built the first taverns in Dunedin. His mother, Liane, ran Passion restaurant there, an aunty too went into the restaurant business, with several in Auckland. But ask Samir what his first memories of hospitality are and he says, “I immediately think of my nana’s house. Everyone would congregate there; all the cousins, brothers and sisters, everyone. That’s my first idea of hospitality, the way my nana and my grandfather, both of them together, just loved to feed people and look after them. Even if it was just a stranger you’d met for the first time, you’d bring them to the house and they’d immediately feel at home. There’d always be so much food. You were never a hassle to my nana. Nobody was ever a hassle.” And even though the first people from Samir’s family came to New Zealand from Lebanon 128 years ago, it was always Lebanese food that was served. Liane’s own grandmother started teaching her Lebanese cooking from age six or seven. It’s a cultural thread that appears not to have diminished throughout the generations. So much so that one day

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“Lebanese people are sending a member of the family in and they say ‘oh I wanted to come to try it and see what it’s like, now we’re going to bring the rest of the family’. That means a lot to us …”

ABOVE: The mezze course at Gemmayze St is full of fresh flavours all executed with panache, while sticking quite closely to traditional Lebanese fare. Samir has managed to source many Lebanese products; stunning wines, beer and coffee, the latter of which is served black, thick and rich and served up in gorgeous copperware.

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Samir bought two tickets to this place he’d heard so much about all his life – one for him, one for his brother. “You build up this idea of what it is because you hear it’s the best place in the world, everything’s better, the water tastes better… so Nat and I said we have to go together and see it for ourselves.” It measured up. “I loved everything about it. It was amazing,” he says. Six months working in a cousin’s restaurants in Beirut, plus a bit of travelling, tasting regional specialties, and soon Samir’s own Lebanese menu was formulating and percolating in his mind. Then came more travel before that fateful email in Bali. Samir knew he wanted to be quite traditional with his menu. “You’re not going to change tabbouleh, you’re just going to make perfect tabbouleh,” he says. “Or fattoush, you can’t really make fattoush anything other than what it is because it’s delicious. It’s a salad but it’s just fresh and perfect. There are things we ate growing up, that when I first started cooking fine dining I thought I’m going to change this and I’m going to make fattoush into something different. And then I thought, well why don’t I just try to share with people the yumminess I experienced eating it?” Asked to describe Lebanese food, Samir says, “I’m thinking about it how to put it in a few words… it’s acidic, sour; for example, sumac, which is a spice, is lemony, pomegranate molasses is sweetly sour, there’s lots of lemon juice, lots of yoghurt. It’s very fresh, not a lot of deep-fried things, not a lot of oily things. The first-course mezze we have here at Gemmayze is mostly vegetarian and salads. There are a few things like falafels deep-fried but it’s with pickles, tahini sauce, lemon – there’s nothing too heavy. We have braised lamb shoulder but we serve it with pickled onions and crunchy caraway seeds and it sort of cuts through the richness.” Mum Liane says of her son’s food, “It’s so authentic. Lebanese people are sending a member of the family in and they say ‘oh I wanted to come to try it and see what it’s like, now we’re going to bring the rest of the family’. That means a lot to us, of course it means a lot, because they know the food.” But you don’t need to be familiar with Lebanese cuisine to understand that seriously good flavour is being served up here. Samir gives credit to his family for helping round out the picture. “I definitely didn’t do this on my own,” he says. “My whole family was involved.” And just like Nana’s place, Gemmayze St aims to make everyone feel at home.


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DISH GU IDE

a new leaf Seems our favourite brew is getting something of a makeover. Dish jumps on the tea trail and discovers a modern, versatile, product that gratifies palate and spirit.

Styling: Kendyl Middelbeek.Copper spoon and bowl from Citta (cittadesign.co.nz). All other spoons fromThe Props Department (thepropsdepartmentco.nz).

Words — NIKKI BIRRELL Photography — JOSH GRIGGS

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mug of gumboot, or builder’s, tea, with a bikkie for dunking, or a nibble on a cucumber sandwich and a protruding pinky on a delicate floral cup – these are two enduring images associated with tea in New Zealand. While we still love both of these notions, something’s afoot: tea’s reputation is starting to rival coffee’s in the urbane fashion stakes. It’s an exciting development – especially as its roots are so embedded in wellbeing. Tea’s antioxidant and restorative properties are well known, not to mention the herbal concoctions, which aim to target everything from insomnia to skin conditions. But as well as the health angle, the reason tea is perhaps becoming so enticing for us here is because the varieties and ways to use it are as endless as the benefits for mind and body. Fresh fruit tea in summer with loads of ice and mint, chai tea lattes on chilly days, food and tea matching, refreshing tea cocktails… tea has therapeutic qualities that go well beyond a simple cuppa. Dish talks to four New Zealand tea companies that are more than familiar with how the ritual of tea uplifts and nourishes.

NOBLE & SAVAGE It was a discussion about the underappreciated qualities of tea that led friends Rupert Curry and Alan Hughes to start their company, Noble & Savage. “We thought there was no reason why the drinkers of Noble & Savage couldn’t share the same sensibilities of coffee culture denizens and enjoy an alternative. There is a different type of tea that can suit any time of day or mood you are in,” says Rupert, a statement which he can back up with 16 flavours and a plan to introduce another five blends to their range. The blue packaging and embossed golden logo of Noble & Savage was created by Alan and its nautical theme references the history of tea and its roots with the early settlers of New Zealand. “There are not a lot of products out there which present an opportunity, like that of tea, to foster a change in perception without disregarding a rich history,” says Rupert. See nobleandsavage.com.

FORAGE + BLOOM Hannah McMenamin is a naturopath, medical herbalist and a nutritionist. All her Forage + Bloom herbs are certified organic, hand blended in small batches and “have the best intentions behind them,” she says. “There are no colours or flavourings added to the blends, just good old-fashioned herbs.” The packaging is also biodegradable, compostable and recyclable. Many of the names of the herbal blends in the Forage + Bloom range are based on their action eg, Revive, Salvation, Repose, Bloom. “I’ve been a plant geek for a long time, have always been around a garden and have spent a lot of time studying and working with herbs,” says Hannah. “I love the idea of helping herbal medicine be accessible to more people, in a gentle and non-invasive, fun, friendly and delicious way.” Speaking of delicious, Hannah has also discovered many of her blends lend themselves beautifully to cooking: “I love using KLG to flavour quinoa or rice while it’s cooking; Revive tea makes a lovely base for a lively salad dressing – try mixing with apple cider vinegar, flax seed oil, a dash of honey with finely chopped fresh chilli.” See forageandbloom.co.nz.

WILD LOVE Wellbeing was the impetus for Louise Garland’s Wild Love range of herbal tisanes. As a herbalist and naturopath, she’d been making a healing balm from kawakawa which she’d started to sell through a friend’s shop, which then led on to her using her herb knowledge to make teas. “I thought it would be a nice way to allow people to experience some of the herbs I have grown to know and love. It happened pretty organically, I guess,” she says. Louise has three herbal tisanes in her range, Love Tea, Brain Tea and Native Tea. Love Tea? “It all started with damiana, a beautiful herb grown and used throughout Mexico, Central and South America, with early documented use by the Mayan people,” she explains. “When researching this fascinating plant, I found it had been traditionally used as an aphrodisiac but also as a general tonic for the nervous system – particularly of benefit when people are tired or depressed.” Pair that with green tea and dried hibiscus petals, which lend a beautiful rose hue to the tea and, voila, Love Tea. Louise’s blends are all organic and made in small batches by hand. See wildlove.co.nz.

FINE & DANDY The founders of Fine & Dandy tea, Sarah Munro and Adam Durant, started their business out of a frustration at not being able to find the kind of tea they liked to drink – having lived in India and Japan they’d developed a taste for quality loose-leaf. So what is it about tea they’re so enamoured with? “The ritual around brewing it, the ancient history and the way a cup of tea can make you feel amazing. Plus, we fell in love with the way this one plant has all these incredible natural flavours that reflect where it’s from – just like good coffee or wine,” says Sarah. “Tea is on the cusp of such an exciting change.” The pair visit and buy directly from certified organic and fairtrade farms and estates that grow the tea. They’re also big advocates of tea and food matching. “We get excited about pairing tea with savoury and plant-based meals rather than sweet. As a general rule, black tea pairs beautifully with something rich like a classic eggs benedict, green tea is amazing with spicy foods like dumplings, and the subtle flavours of white teas match well with really delicate flavours, such as cucumber or melon.” See fineanddandy.co.nz.

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N O BLE & SAVAGE

BERRY BUBBLES 12 scoops Noble & Savage Strawberry Plum 1 cup water 1 cup white sugar juice of a lemon prosecco, to serve To make a syrup, combine the loose-leaf tea, water and sugar in a large saucepan. Stir over a low heat until all the sugar has dissolved. Boil over a moderate heat for approximately 15 minutes or until starting to thicken (it will continue to thicken on cooling). Add lemon juice, stir, strain syrup and allow to cool. Pour prosecco into glasses and add a drizzle of syrup (be careful not to let it bubble over). Serves many

Tray and glasses form Country Road (countryroad.com.au). Spoon from The Props Department.

COOK’S NOTE: The leftover syrup can be used in many delicious ways eg use on pancakes or crumpets with a dollop of mascarpone and some chopped pistachios, pour over ice cream, use to drizzle over a sponge or tea cake‌

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FINE & DANDY

FROZEN CHAI RUSSIAN 1 cup strong-brewed Fine & Dandy Indian Spiced Chai tea, cooled ¼ cup vanilla-infused vodka (place a bean in 250ml pure vodka overnight) ¼ cup pure maple syrup milk, to serve

Glasses from Citta. Fume coasters from The Poi Room (thepoiroom.co.nz). Recipe derived from a Peach PIt creation (peachpit.co.nz).

Mix brewed tea, vodka and maple syrup together and pour into an ice cube tray and allow to freeze. Put chai tea ice cubes in a class and pour over your choice of milk. Serves 4–6

tea’s time Tea, of course, is no new flash in the pan, having been around for centuries. Technically, it is a hot drink produced by infusing dried plant leaves from the Camellia sinensis shrub – black, green, oolong, white, and pu’erh tea all come from this plant. Varieties not derived from Camellia sinensis are more accurately referred to as herbal teas or tisanes and can include herbs, spices or other plant materials, such as dried fruit, chamomile, dandelion, rooibos...

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Jug and glasses from Nest (nest-direct.com). Uashmama mat from Collected (collected.co.nz).


Copper mugs from Collected. Recipe inspired by Teatini (teatini.com.au).

FO R AGE & BLOOM

KLG MULE 8 teaspoons Forage + Bloom KLG tea, steeped in 2 cups of water, cooled 120ml vodka 60ml lime juice ginger beer, to top ice Pour brewed tea into a vessel of your choice. Stir in vodka and lime juice. Add ice and top with ginger beer. Serves 2

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SE T S T Y LE SERVE

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THIS PAGE: The Città team mixed natural elements with contemporary serveware; Sam Mannering created a feast on Fisher & Paykel Designed to Match cooking appliances; guests were treated to a sneak preview of Città’s Palm Springs summer collection.


THIS PAGE: Nautilus wines were kept cool in stylish Fisher & Paykel wine cabinets; chef Sam made use of Fisher & Paykel’s gas and induction cooktops; an entrée of Mirin-Cured Salmon with Farro, Preserved Olive Leaf, Pickled Ginger and Kohlrabi; Markantonia’s creative floral artwork.

MAKING FOOD LOOK beautiful From stylish table settings to ideas for preparing and presenting a mouth-watering meal, Città and Fisher & Paykel shared their Social Kitchen™ know-how with Dish readers at a recent Set, Style, Serve event. Good food brings people together. Taking time to plan a menu, prepare each dish and create a beautiful setting – whether it’s for a special occasion or to make the most of a meal with those you love – is at the heart of entertaining. Città and Fisher & Paykel brought this social kitchen philosophy to life at a mid-winter feast in the Sapphire Room at Auckland’s Ponsonby Central. Using Fisher & Paykel appliances – including induction and gas cooktops – chef and food writer Sam Mannering demonstrated how to prepare flavoursome dishes, from simple canapés to a sensational main of Pork Belly with Fennel Bulb, Swiss Chard, Bortolli Beans and Chilli, with Gremolata and White Anchovy. The setting was one of casual glamour, with the team from Città using a monochromatic palette and beautiful natural materials. Long “family style” tables were decorated with Città’s contemporary serveware, and

organic-shaped plates and platters in tones of off-white and grey were mixed with natural textures of soft linen napkins and wooden boards. Finishing touches were provided by florist Markantonia’s sculptural arrangements – with each bud and leaf crafted on to branches – along with black riverstones and the glow of candlelight. For the menu and more images from the event visit dish.co.nz. cittadesign.com fisherpaykel.com


going greek Sharing the flavours of Greece is what Kathy Tsaples is all about – whether in her cookbooks or her Melbourne shop. Dish talks to this passionate cook about how excited she is to show people the beloved cuisine of her heritage. Recipes — KATHY TSAPLES / Photography — J OHN L AUR IE

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elebrate life – that’s what Kathy Tsaples new cookbook Sweet Greek Life: My Shared Table aims to do. Cancer-free now, and past the five-year mark, Kathy has many reasons to count her blessings. She says, “I can’t think of a better way to celebrate than cooking for family and friends”. This, her second cookbook, is a “bit of me and where I am in life”. Filled with her interpretations of Greek cuisine, along with more traditional offerings, it would seem Kathy is in a very good place. Her Sweet Greek shop in Melbourne’s Prahran markets is a dream come true for this passionate food-lover. It was an opportunity that came up right at the end of her cancer treatment and initially she cooked all the food at home, taking it into the market each day. In the foreword in My Shared Table, she says, “At Sweet Greek I have had the opportunity to create and cook Greek food just as I had dreamed. The enticing comforting aromas of cinnamon, allspice, vanilla, oregano, fennel, lemons and oranges filter out of the shop and through the corridors of the market, awakening the senses and soothing the body and soul”. Her cookbooks allow her to share this even further afield. “It’s hit a nerve with existing Greek Australians, giving them a vehicle to cook the food of their heritage they hadn’t learned. It’s brought back flavours, memories and senses,” she says. For non-Greeks, it’s an opportunity to embrace this perhaps lesser-known “cornerstone of the Mediterranean diet”. The recipes are easy to follow, which “encourages people to give it a go – break away from the mould of souvlaki and tzatziki”. Olive oil, oregano, lemon, garlic, pasta, rice, cinnamon, all spice, walnuts, yoghurt – essential Greek pantry requirements – are common threads throughout the book. There are sections on soups and salads, meat and seafood. But it’s the baking and sweets section that had the Dish team hungrily deciding which to make first. This isn’t surprising given Kathy’s predilection. Her mother, the woman who taught Kathy her craft and who this latest cookbook is lovingly dedicated to, wasn’t as keen on “doing sweets,” says Kathy. “She always left that to me.” Hence the Sweet Greek name of her cookbooks and her shop. Along with all the know-how, what she also inherited from her manoula was the desire for sharing food – “the beauty of planning, shopping, preparing, cooking, serving – I saw how happy that made her feel”. Food, in Greek culture, is “everything, apart from family – it’s the medium through which you get together, even if it’s as basic as bread, cheese and olives”. It’s this idea Kathy hopes people will embrace with her book. It’s all about giving it a go, she asserts. “Never be afraid of making a mistake or something not working out quite as you planned. Embrace every dish with lots of love – it’s the most important ingredient. Food isn’t a chore, do it with love and you’ll be rewarded.”

OPPOSITE PAGE : Keik

me Raspberries ke Amigthalo (Raspberry Cake with Rose Petals). THIS PAGE: Methismena (WalnutFilled Biscuits – both recipes on next page); Kathy Tsaples (left) is now on her second cookbook and is loving sharing her favourite Greek recipes with a wider audience.

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LOUKOUMADES ME FETA KE MELI ( F E TA LO U KO U M A D ES WITH HONEY)

Keik me Raspberries ke Amigthalo Raspberry Cake with Rose Petals Prep 45 minutes Cook 1 hour Cake 200 grams fresh or frozen raspberries 12 eggs 500 grams caster sugar 500 grams almond meal, plus extra 2 teaspoons baking powder ¼ tsp salt Icing 2 cups icing sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice, strained Garnish seeds of 1 pomegranate 2 tablespoons dried rose petals 2 tablespoons pistachio slivers, lightly toasted Preheat the oven to 160°C fan-forced. Cake: Butter a 25-centimetre round cake tin and sprinkle it with almond meal, flour or gluten-free flour, if required. Pulse the raspberries in a food processor until they are a fine purée. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and sugar together. Add the raspberry pulp and mix thoroughly. Add the almond meal, baking powder and salt, and combine thoroughly. Leave the batter to rest for 10 minutes, then pour it into the prepared tin and bake for 1 hour, or until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack. 46 D I SH

Icing: Make the icing by mixing the icing sugar with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice, gradually adding more lemon juice as necessary to achieve a drizzling consistency. When the cake has cooled, pour the icing over the top and let it drip down the sides. Garnish: Decorate with the pomegranate seeds, rose petals and pistachio slivers. Serves 8–12

around the walnut mixture and mould it into an oval shape similar to a lemon and place on the prepared trays. Bake for 15–20 minutes. When cooked through remove from the oven and leave to cool until they can be handled. Dip about 4 biscuits at a time into the warm syrup. Remove, then coat each biscuit in coconut and put on a serving plate. Serves many

Methismena Walnut-Filled Biscuits

Loukoumades me Feta ke Meli Feta Loukoumades with Honey

Prep 1 hour Cook 25 minutes

Prep 20 minutes Cook 30 minutes

Biscuit 2 cups grapeseed or sunflower oil 1 cup full-strength beer 1 teaspoon baking powder zest of 1 lemon 5–6½ cups plain flour Filling 1 cup walnuts, toasted and finely chopped by hand ½ cup apricot jam 1 tablespoon caster sugar ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground cloves Syrup 2 cups sugar 2 cups water 1 lemon wedge 1 orange wedge 6 whole cloves desiccated coconut, to coat

2 cups feta, crumbled 2 tablespoons mint, chopped 1 cup plain flour ½ teaspoon pepper ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon baking powder 1 cup very cold sparkling mineral water sunflower oil, for frying To serve thyme-infused Greek honey nigella seeds sesame seeds

Biscuit: In a stainless steel bowl, combine the oil, beer, baking powder, lemon zest and 5 cups of the flour. Knead by hand, until it becomes a lovely dough. This process can be done in an electric stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Cover and leave to rest. While the dough is resting make the filling and syrup. The dough only needs to rest for as long as it takes to make them. Filling: Mix the walnuts, jam, sugar, cinnamon and cloves until well combined. Syrup: Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan and stir over a low heat to dissolve the sugar. Add the lemon and orange wedges and the cloves. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 160°C fan-forced and line two large trays with baking paper. Take a piece of dough, about the size of a golf ball, and flatten it in your hand to about the size of your palm. Take a teaspoon of the walnut mixture and place it onto the dough. Seal the dough

In a large bowl, combine the feta, mint, flour, pepper, salt and baking powder. Slowly add the water, stirring with a spoon to form a thick batter — it should be thick but loose enough to slide off the spoon. Fill a deep, heavy-based frypan with sunflower oil to about 2cm deep. Heat the oil over a medium to high heat until it is hot. Test by throwing a pinch of flour into the oil – if it sizzles the oil is ready to use. Using a soup spoon, spoon the batter into the oil and fry until golden. Do not overcrowd the pan. Drain on paper towels. To serve, pile the loukoumades on to a beautiful platter, drizzle generously with honey and sprinkle with nigella and sesame seeds. Serves 4–6

This is an edited extract from Sweet Greek Life: My Shared Table by Kathy Tsaples, published by Melbourne Books, RRP $49.95. Release date October 26, 2016.


Prawns, Chilli and Zucchini Pizzette Visit thekingsseries.co.nz for the recipe

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  Ĺ? The Kings Series wines from Marisco Vineyards are a celebration of Brent Marris’ ancestry. Each wine has a delightful story of family intrigue and treachery – a truly colourful history to complement a truly stunning wine. Prawns, Chilli and Zucchini Pizzette are a tantalising accompaniment to the The King’s Favour Sauvignon Blanc.

thekingsseries.co.nz Become part of our story – join us on Facebook

Marisco Vineyards


In season: avocados It’s nature’s little wonder food – dense with nutrients and essential fats but, more importantly, absolutely scrumptious.

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here’s no better way to test the popularity of a food item than to treble its price and see if people still buy it. Avocados, so plentiful in the summer of 2014–15, became hard to find towards the end of last year and the quantity never really picked up through summer. The price did, though – $5.95 for an avocado. Like many people, I decided to bide my time until they were plentiful again and prices returned to normal. What caused the short supply? Like some other fruit trees, avocado trees follow an abundant crop with a lighter one. Theories abound why this happens but it is most likely because our climate is not warm enough to sustain a large annual crop. The current picking season, which runs from mid-August through to November, is New Zealand’s biggest ever estimated crop (the estimate is based on the quantity of fruit on the trees and final numbers will not be known until picking ends). Yippee – an avocado avalanche is headed our way. A perfectly ripe specimen of a Haas avocado is a joy to behold, oval-shaped, dark pebbly skin, pale green flesh ringed with darker green around the skin line, with creamy flesh that holds together well for slicing, and a rich nutty taste. Get the most out of avocados and buy them unripe and ripen them in a fruit bowl. If you need to speed up the ripening, fruits which give off ethylene gas, such as apples and bananas, stored with an avocado in a brown paper bag, will do that job (the apple a little more effectively than a banana). So, now they’re back in full swing, it’s time to eat them every which way.

• You could start by spreading toasted grainy bread with vegemite and topping with mounds of avocado. Add a squeeze of lime, or vary it by adding chopped tomatoes, parsley or coriander. • I love a bean salad made with white navy beans, roasted red pepper and slow-roasted tomatoes, tossed together with a tangy lemony vinaigrette and masses of chunky chopped avocado gently tossed through. • Another combo is lightly cooked sweetcorn sliced off the cob, dressed with a tarragon-flavoured vinaigrette (use a little fresh chopped tarragon or tarragon vinegar) mixed with half a small puréed avocado. Top the lot with sliced avocado. You can finish this with roasted hot red chillies if you like: char them in the flames of a barbecue or gas grill until the skins blacken – it is best to do this on a long metal skewer, or put several in a metal fish grill – transfer to a plate and cover with paper towels. Peel off blackened skin when cool. If the chillies are piercingly hot, simply add more avocado. • If you are looking for a breakfast or brunch dish to set you up for the day, spread toasted grainy bread with avocado, half squashing it so it sticks to the toast. Top with scrambled eggs enriched with grated vintage cheddar cheese and drizzle with sriracha sauce. • Make a hot and spicy tomato soup and top with fried strips of soft wheat tortillas and

diced avocado. Add a few squeezes of lime and a smattering of coriander. • Make a batch of thin fritters with flaked smoked fish, spring onion, cooked corn kernels or thinly sliced potatoes, if you like, and plenty of egg to make it quite liquid. Fry off in sizzling butter and interleave with sliced avocado. Serve with lemon or a caper vinaigrette. • Whip avocado into a smooth sauce with sour cream and finely chopped mint, sharpen with lemon and serve spooned over chicken and bacon burgers in place of mayo, or with pan-fried fish fillets or hot smoked salmon. • Tumble chunks of grilled or barbecued chicken thigh, cooked turkey or duck in a bowl with plenty of cubed mango and avocado, and salad leaves. Whisk 3 tablespoons avocado oil, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 teaspoon mustard, salt and pepper to taste, a little chopped tarragon and 3 tablespoons lightly whipped cream. Spoon over salad and serve. • Make a salsa with chopped tomatillos or tomatoes, chopped red onion, masses of chopped coriander, chopped chilli to taste, diced avocado and plenty of lime juice. Good with anything. Up the flavour and add toasted or blackened chillies and garlic. • Halve, stone and peel avocados, keeping them intact. Fill with guacamole, or salsa, or room-temperature ratatouille.

Plate and bowl from The Props Department (thepropsdepartment.co.nz). All others stylist’s own.

Words — JULIE BIUSO / Photography — M ANJA WACH S M UTH


2016

BEEF AND LAMB AMBASSADOR SERIES

An evening with

ANDREW CLARKE Victoria Street Bistro, 153 Victoria Street South, HAMILTON

Enjoy an evening with Beef + Lamb Ambassador Chef Andrew Clarke at one of Waikato’s top dining establishments, Victoria Street Bistro. Savour a specially prepared six-course menu available for one night only. Hear what inspires Andrew to create his award-winning dishes using New Zealand beef and lamb. Don’t miss this special opportunity to indulge your senses with a unique dining experience and meet one of New Zealand’s top chefs.

WHEN Tuesday 11 October 2016 at 6.30pm COST $90 per person for a six-course menu or $140 with wine matches BOOKINGS Call Victoria Street Bistro on 07 839 4444 or email dine@victoriastreetbistro.co.nz

Want to experience the top beef and lamb cuisine in New Zealand? nzexcellenceawards.co.nz


TARGET GULLY

PIPECLAY TERRACE LONG GULLY

PINOT NOIR

PINOT NOIR

PINOT NOIR

2013 SINGLE VINEYARD COLLECTION Our 2013 Single Vineyard Collection, recently released from our cellar, is now available for purchase at Caros, Fine Wine Delivery Company, Glengarry, Point Wines, Regional Wines, VinoFino, selected fine wine retailers, and online at mtdifficulty.co.nz or from our cellar door TWR000790MTDDISH

73 Felton Road, Bannockburn, Central Otago.

Journey with us at

@mtdifficulty and on

/mtdifficulty


A MESSAGE FROM OUR WINNER A word from our winning winemaker Matt Dicey from Mt Difficulty, who was in Peru at the time of writing: “We’ve been making pinot gris for the past 15 years but initially we were quite focused on engaging texture, while retaining aromatics. With the Roaring Meg Pinot Gris we changed our focus a little to really try to emphasise the aromatic intensity that we can achieve in Central Otago. One of the key benefits of our cooler climate is the ability to let pinot gris hang and achieve aroma and flavour ripeness. Pinot gris typically does this reasonably late, meaning slightly higher alcohols. To counter this we leave a little residual sugar, which helps to control the higher alcohol and also leaves a little mid-palate richness. We love working with one grape in a variety of different ways, showcasing different elements and styles.”

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

a delicate balancing act Pinot gris is an ever-increasing popular choice of white wine for us Kiwis and as the Dish top 12 display, it’s a variety, when done right, that is an exceedingly good-value option. hen it comes to announcing our favourite white wines, Kiwis are noholds-barred fans of pinot gris. You’d imagine, given its popularity, that it’d feature highly on the production graph each year. However, even in 2016, it accounts for only nine per cent of the national white grape output (sauvignon blanc accounts for 74 per cent). Yet in the two years since we conducted our first pinot gris tasting panel, our wine producers have increased the crush to a whopping 25,000 tonnes of the stuff. Ten years ago, it was less than a quarter of that. Clearly we love the stuff – it’s the fourth most widely planted variety on our shores but for many of us it’s still a tricky variety to get our heads around. Pinot gris comes in a number of guises, some so bony and dry, they’re practically skeletal (think pinot grigio); right through to the luxuriously rich, sweeter styles. Classic pinot gris aromas and flavours include things such as pear, apple, quince, stonefruit and spice, but we at Dish are all about keeping an open mind. Among the plethora

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of styles presented, our judges were intent on finding “balance” and “drinkablilty”. “Is it something you’d want to have a second sip of?” says judge Jo Gear. “Is it a wine where the sweetness/dryness/acidity/alcohol and textural components all work in harmony?” added Cameron Douglas. As our Kiwi aromatic styles develop and mature, chances are drinkers are going to experience more phenolic textures in their pinot gris. Phenolics are the compounds responsible for that “furry” or astringent feeling in the mouth and they’re often derived from skin contact during the processing. Certainly many of our top examples showed delicious phenolic complexity from skin contact and a nudge of subtle oak influence too. More than 100 entries were received and categorised into classes based on their vintage and levels of natural sweetness. Then they were served to our judges blind and under competition conditions by Janet Blackman and her expert stewarding team at AUT. Our top 12 wines (those which scored at

It’s called pinot “gris” after the French word for “grey”, as the skins of the grapes have a distinct pinky-grey hue. It was refreshing to see that some producers are even using those skins to give their wines a hint of apricot-pink colour.

least 52 out of a possible 60 points) feature absolutely superb examples from both islands that were spread across three vintages. But it was 2015 that accounted for 50 of the big guns, so clearly that was an awesome year for pinot gris; get them while you can. Across the wide range of wines submitted, one thing our judges felt could be improved on was the increasingly high alcohol levels in some entries – this “heat” proved a distraction from the fruit in many of the wines. Botrytis does pinot gris no favours unless it’s made in a deliberate, late-harvest style and sour rot smells leached through into the palate in a number of the wines. Pinot gris is also very unforgiving so any faults in the fruit or hiccups in the winemaking process will tend to stick out. But if there’s one thing New Zealand pinot gris does extremely well, it’s delivering extremely good value-for-money examples that are crisp, tangy, textural and seriously foodfriendly. And that is all we really want in a wine, isn’t it?

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THE JUDGES D I S H TASTI N G PA N E L Y VON N E LORKIN (Dish drinks writer)

JO GEAR (Winemaker NZ Wine Society)

Pinot Gris TOP WINE OF THE TASTING 1. MT DIFFICULTY

CAMERON DOU GLAS MS (Senior Lecturer AUT and Master Sommelier)

MEG A B B OT T-WA L K E R (Wine consultant)

Roaring Meg Central Otago Pinot Gris Gold Medal 2015 ($22.99) The one word that kept cropping up among the judges was “precision”. This ultra-clean, ultra-floral style oozes ripe pear, strudel spices, nashi and white peach characters. “Gorgeous precision and definition, with lovely white florals and layers of flavour,” noted Yvonne, while Cameron was wowed by its “delicate fruit entry, purity, freshness and nicely textured, solid finish”. This Central Otago stunner boasts subtlety, elegance, and deliciously refreshing presence. Superb.

RATING SYSTEM: GOLD Superb. Strongly recommended. SILVER  A cut above the rest in quality. BRONZE  A good-quality crowd pleaser.

2. PALLISER ESTATE

Martinborough Pinot Gris 2015 ($28.50) Gold Medal Here’s a beautifully complex style which boasts sexy oak complexity on the nose, taut and toasty, slightly smoky layers which wrap around bright, vibrant fruit, and

BEST BUY status is given to wines which achieved Silver medal or higher, yet retail for under $20 (NB: All wines are judged blind and the scores of judges for their own wines cannot exceed those of other judges.)

Look for the Dish Tasting Panel selection sticker, which can be worn by our top wines. With thanks to Janet Blackman from the Professional Wine Studies Department and the AUT School of Hospitality and Tourism. For more on the programmes in hospitality, food and beverage, and hotel managemen, visit aut.ac.nz. Water kindly supplied by Antipodes.

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BEST BUY

leaves a fluid, balanced finish. “Lovely, fresh, apple-like nose and finesse on the palate,” remarked Cameron. Boasting baked pear, rose apple, quince, succulent stonefruit and almond characters, this wine had sensational poise, balance and persistence of flavour on the finish. An absolute stand-out. 3. VILLA MARIA

Cellar Selection Marlborough Pinot Gris Gold Medal 2015 ($17.99) (BEST BUY) With ripe fruit, marzipan and caramelised, crumble-like characters, this is one supersatisfying example that boasts a racy, delicately dry mouthfeel. “Rich, ripe and well structured,” noted Yvonne, while Meg was impressed with the candied apple, citrus layers and spicy intensity. “It has a lovely line of acidity and great texture,” remarked Jo. Classic, lush, vibrant and showing lanolin-like purity and a splash of sweetness – it’s no surprise it landed a top spot.


4. JOHANNESHOF CELLARS

7. THORNBURY WAIPARA

10. PEGASUS BAY

Marlborough Pinot Gris 2016 ($28) Gold Medal “Pristine green apple and lovely length – it’s a very nice wine” noted Cameron, while Jo enjoyed the dry, spiced apple and pear flavours. This dry style impressed the judges with its faint hint of pink, lift of florals and plump, pawpaw characters. There was no denying the instant appeal and drinkability of this charming, mildly spicy, mineral-edged wine.

½ Pinot Gris 2016 ($15) Silver Medal (BEST BUY) We were confident Waipara would produce a few stars in our line-up, being the pinot gris goldmine that it is. However, who’d have known we’d get one that rocked in at the cracker price of just $15. Winemaker Simon Fell has somehow packed impossible amounts of nashi, spice, apple and quince characters into such an affordable example.

Late Harvest Waipara Pinot Gris 2014 Silver Medal ($30) Made as a purpose-built sweet treat, this deliciously concentrated, manuka-honey and Anzac biscuit-flavoured wine is a great way to inject a little lusciousness into your life. Winemaker Mat Donaldson has captured baked quince and baked pear in this wine that works magically with blue cheese and oatcakes.

8. TIKI ESTATE

11.MISSION ESTATE

Marlborough Pinot Gris 2016 ($20) Silver Medal Deliciously dusty oak adds complexity to the brown pear, quince and dry, mineral elements in the mid-palate. “It has great consumer appeal, fleshiness and length,” said Jo. “I really like the roast stonefruit and honeyed characters, plus it has a massive finish,” added Yvonne. Will appeal to those looking for a bit of guts in their gris.

Vineyard Selection Marlborough Pinot Silver Medal Gris 2015 ($18) (BEST BUY) “Some lovely warm oak, vanilla, baked apple and lots of fruit up front” noted Jo. While Yvonne enjoyed the freshness, white fruits and minerality in the wine. It was the “good, flavoursome finish” that won Meg over alongside the “lithe, concentrated mouthfeel”.

6. TIKI ESTATE

9. GIBBSTON VALLEY

12.PETANE STATION

Single Vineyard Marlborough Pinot ½ Silver Medal Gris 2014 ($23) “Fine bouquet of fresh, crunchy red apple combined with quince and pear,” noted Cameron, while Jo also felt it had instant juicy appeal and rich, textural characters. A very pretty, floral-forward style that our judges felt had real “silkiness” in the mouth. Winemaker Evan Ward and his team have done an excellent job here. Delicious.

Gold River Central Otago Pinot Gris Silver Medal 2015 ($23) If you’re looking for elegance you’ve come to the right place. Central Otago has something special in the soil to create distinct minerality and zing in their pinot gris. This wine has precision and depth, lovely fruit definition and serious complexity to complement rose-like florals and generosity in the mouth.

Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2015 ($27) Silver Medal Great to see Hawke’s Bay’s newest winery featuring strongly in this panel. With its heady, citrus blossom, almond and hazelnut aromas and a splash of sweetness, the spicy, moreish mid-palate in this little cracker sent it to silver straight away. A sexy style, with good balance, definition and power on the finish.

5. MUD HOUSE HOME BLOCK PINOT GRIS 2014 ($25) ½ Silver Medal

“Balance” was the word du jour from our judges here, along with “alluring spicy bouquet”, “lovely fresh acidity”, “crisp citrus bite on the finish” and “charming”. Yvonne even felt it had a “mojito note” and commented on the purity and richness of this highly aromatic southern example.

BEST BUY

BEST BUY

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REVIEW

a perfect partnership: two premium Australian wineries and an evening of fine wine and food Guests were treated to an exceptional selection of wine from Taylors Wines and Brown Brothers at a recent Dine with Dish.

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FROM TOP: Taylors Wines vineyards in the Clare Valley enjoy a Mediterranean climate; Brown Brothers Epicurean Centre; autumn vines at Brown Brothers in Milawa.

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aylor Brown is a collaboration between two Australian wine-making families, Taylors Wines and Brown Brothers. The joint venture, exclusive to New Zealand, was brought to life at a recent Dine with Dish at Botswana Butchery in Auckland. Guests enjoyed a six-course menu designed by Botswana Butchery’s group executive chef, Stuart Rogan. Each course was matched with a special wine from Brown Brothers and Taylors Wines premium collections. Justin Taylor from Taylors Wines and Caroline Brown from Brown Brothers were in attendance to guide diners through the wine matches and provide insights into the history of the two family-owned wineries. Taylors Wines call the Clare Valley in South Australia home. The family estate was established in 1969 when the family found a 226-hectare location, nestled in the Wakefield Valley, from which to produce their range of fine wines. Brown Brothers have been making wine in Milawa in North East Victoria for more than 126 years. The evening began with canapés – Tuna Nigiri with soy and wasabi jelly and puffed sushi rice; and Seared Scallops with blood orange caramel and yuzu gel – flavoursome mouthfuls matched with the toasted brioche notes of Brown Brothers Patricia Pinot Noir & Chardonnay Brut 2008. Caroline Brown discussed the significance of the Patricia collection to the Brown Brothers family, named after the matriarch, Patricia Brown, who dedicated 60 years of her life to the Brown Brothers family and business. To honour her, the Brown Brothers Patricia range carries her name. The wines are a


Brown Brothers grounds in Milawa.

THE WINE & FOOD Justin Taylor from Taylors Wines and Caroline Brown from Brown Brothers share their thoughts on two of their favourite matches from the evening.

LEMON MASCARPONE SORBET, LIME CURD, STREUSEL, LEMON GRANITE

Matched with Brown Brothers Patricia Noble Riesling 2013

ADV2016

selection of the very best in viticulture and winemaking. The menu also included a Five-spiced Chicken Liver Parfait, Hazelnuts and Toasted Brioche matched with the Brown Brothers Patricia Shiraz 2009. The evening was brought to a close with Brown Brothers Patricia Noble Riesling 2013 matched with a tangy Lemon Mascarpone Sorbet dessert. Justin Taylor outlined the history of Taylors Wines, which began three generations ago in South Australia’s Clare Valley. Diners enjoyed a selection of the Taylors Clare Valley Luxury Collection – from the St Andrews, The Pioneer and The Visionary ranges – a unique embodiment of the very best of Australian winemaking. As with the Brown Brothers Patricia range, The Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon is named in honour of founder and visionary, Bill Taylor Senior, while The Pioneer Shiraz is named in honour of Justin’s father, Bill Taylor who is the true pioneer behind Taylor wines. The crispness of Taylors St Andrews Riesling 2015 was just the ticket to combat the chilli kick in the first course of Natural Oysters with chilli jam and crispy shallots. While the luscious, full-bodied flavours of Taylors The Pioneer Shiraz 2012 and Taylors The Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 were matched with the third and fourth courses of tender and delicious roast venison fillet and lamb loin.

taylorwines.com.au

brownbrothers.com.au

“The Patricia Noble Riesling is like liquid gold in a glass. Named after my grandmother, Patricia, the wine encapsulates her qualities – gorgeous and golden, luscious and sweet, but with a wonderful streak of acidity that provides further complexity! It’s a perfect match with this delicious dessert as the acidity of the wine and the citrus go hand in hand. Dine with Dish was a wonderful opportunity to meet fabulous people who love Australian wine and enjoy superb dishes from Botswana Butchery.” Caroline Brown

ROAST VENISON, LABNEH, DATE SYRUP, GINGER PUREE, BLACKBERRY, CACAO NIB CRUMBLE

Matched with Taylors The Pioneer Syrah 2012 “The Pioneer is an exceptional Clare Valley shiraz. It's a powerful, elegant and well-rounded wine with rich flavours of dark chocolate, berry fruits and smooth tannins – a perfect match for the venison. I couldn’t think of a better way to spend an evening in New Zealand: our Pioneer Shiraz, a delicious roast venison dish, and wonderful company.” Justin Taylor


BY THE GLASS Cherry wine, chestnut beer, a crowd-funded festival celebrating natural beverages and some new openings to while away an afternoon supping and dining – YVONNE LORKIN rounds up the latest from the world of drinks.

AUCTION STATIONS

BURSTING WITH PRIDE…

Budburst is New Zealand’s first natural wine and food festival – the brainchild of a group of wine distributors, restaurateurs, sommeliers, retailers, writers and winemakers who felt it was high time for an exchange of ideas and raising awareness about what “natural wine” actually is. Held in Wellington on Sunday 13 November at the Prefab Cafe & Hall on Jessie Street, the full-day, crowd-funded festival includes local food, live music, mini educational sessions and a bar serving natural wine, beer and cider by the glass. Natural wine has been growing steadily here for nearly a decade; not only are Kiwi enthusiasts collecting natural wines from around the world, but a natural winemaking community has emerged from the organic winegrowing establishment. Budburst is an opportunity to explore the concepts of artisan craft, ethical and sustainable production and diversity in more than 60 available wine styles from here and abroad. Visit budburst.nz for tickets and info. 56 D I SH

On 12 November, the walls of the Hawke’s Bay Opera House Plaza will be ringing to the sound of “Sold!!” as the 25th Annual Hawke’s Bay Wine Auction once again offers 40 rare lots provided by the wine community for the sole benefit of Cranford Hospice. This is the oldest, and most prestigious auction of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Visit hawkesbay wineauction.co.nz for more info. GIN SLINGING

In addition to distilling lipsmacking liqueurs made from berries, feijoas, lemons, coffee and all manner of exotic ingredients, the newly re-opened Liquid Alchemy distillery in Nelson now produce fresh hop gins made from three local, handharvested hop varieties: Nelson Sauvin, Wai-iti and Motueka. 14 Vivian Place, Nelson, liquidalchemy.co.nz

WHEAT’S OUT Good gluten-free beers are thin on the ground at the best of times – Hamish Jones from The Nuts Brewing Co in Christchurch, has solved this grainy issue by producing New Zealand’s first chestnut lager. The Cheslic Gluten Free Lager (4.1 per cent) contains just chestnuts, yeast, water and hops and it’s a light, refreshingly biscuity brew. Available to buy via beernz.co.nz.

SOUR POWER Hoppy beers are so 2015. This year is all about getting some “squint-factor” by basking in the power of sour. It’s such a “thing” that at the Beervana fest, an entire bar was dedicated to all sorts of sour. According to Moa’s head brewer, David Nicholls, to make a good sour, a brewery needs to nurse their own culture of bacteria and wild yeasts through the fermentation process to create a signature tang. That’s exactly what he’s done with their vintage Cherry Sour and Sour Blanc lambic-style beers. The bigger the grimace, the better the beer.


THE TIDE IS HIGH Wither-ing Heights Wither Hills will open a new restaurant offering lunch service at its Marlborough winery and cellar door in November. Just five minutes from Blenheim and boasting the best lawn-lounging beanbags in the business, the new restaurant means visitors to the cellar door will be able to lock in for longer and enjoy a sit-down with some superb local produce on the menu. With a newly designed space overseen by Paul Izzard, designer and judge of TV3’s The Block, it’s excellent to have Wither Hills back on Marlborough’s winery dining circuit.

When Glenn and Virginia Meikle started Mount Brewing Co back in 1996, they had no idea that 20 years later they’d be embarking on a massive expansion and renovation project and opening their very own restaurant. The new-look, solar-powered Rising Tide Brewhouse and Eatery, located at 107 Newton Street, Mount Maunganui, provides committed craft beer drinkers and novices a place to taste their smorgasbord of brews, interact with the brewers and indulge in beer-friendly, foodie treats like homemade dumplings, pork buns, seafood and such-like. “Our new premises will provide our customers with the complete food and drink experience to take us into the future,” says Glenn. For more information, visit facebook.com/mountbrewingco.

SYRAH HURRAH

CHERRY WINE

ONE TO WATCH

THIRSTY WORKIN’ As if you needed any sort of excuse to lounge in front of the TV on a weekend afternoon – a whole shiny new series of Thirsty Work, a show for fans of all things fermented, is now screening at 3.55pm Saturdays on TV3. My excellent film crew and I have spent the last six months uncovering some of the best little wine and craft beer stories this side of the black stump – and I’m so excited to bring them to your small screen. thirstyworktv.com

Andy McMillan is a former Olympic swimmer and the current captain of the NZ Surf Lifesaving team. While at a training camp in France he was initiated into the charms of cherry wine. On returning to his father’s Central Otago cherry orchard (Rippon Cherries) he discovered the region’s winemakers had downtime right when cherries are ready to be harvested. After experimenting with cherry wine, Andy partnered with awardwinning winemakers, Vinpro, to release the two varieties, Lapins (slightly sweet $24) and Sweetheart (slightly dry $26). They’re extremely pure, balanced, downright delicious and available from ripponvale.co.nz.

To honour the legacy of visionary winemaker Tom McDonald, Church Road launched their first TOM cabernet in 1999, a rare, limited release. A decade later, a TOM chardonnay was added, and in 2016 a TOM syrah completed the trio. One hundred per cent of the fruit was sourced from the Bridge Pa Triangle Wine District. A couple of swirls and the glass reveals elegant white pepper, fresh blackberry, violet and vanilla alongside buoyant layers of concentrated plum, finely tuned cocoa and charred, smoky characters. Reduced to just one bunch per shoot (the norm for syrah is 2–3), every cluster has its “shoulders” chopped off to leave the fruit untangled and free from disease pressure. This also means 60–70 per cent of the crop ends up on the ground. It’s crazy stuff, but that’s what winemaker Chris Scott demands in order to meet the stratospheric quality levels needed to end up inside a bottle of TOM.

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PERFECTION ON A PLATE?

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RECIPES

Recipes and food styling by Claire Aldous. Drink matches by Yvonne Lorkin. Styling by Kendyl Middelbeek, Lisa Morton. Props by Lianne Whorwood. Prop credits: Table and chair from Citta (cittadesign.com). Platter, jug and marble bowl from Country Road (countryroad.com.au)

What we’re cooking in this issue of Dish

82 PICKLE POWER Home-made preserves are a super way to add something special to the table. 90 HAVING A BALL Sarah Tuck gives meatballs a makeover.

60 SPRING CHICKEN Fresh dinner ideas for the changing season.

Dish Food Editor CLAIRE ALDOUS gears up for sunnier days ahead.

96 NUTS AND SEEDS These versatile protein-packed morsels get both the sweet and savoury treatment.

68 RISE AND SHINE Kelly Gibney’s spring-out-of bed breakfasts.

104 AFTERNOON DELIGHT Sweeten up the day with some baking nostalgia.

72 RISOTTO REVOLUTION Move aside rice, risotto just got interesting.

110 EASY EVERYDAY Simple weeknight meals.

80 THE CRUMPET CRAZE Dish jumps on the crumpet bandwagon.

128 FRIDAY BAKING Three Citrus Slice.

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spring

chicken

Light, luscious meals perfectly suited to the changing season. Recipes — CLA IR E A LD O U S Photography — JOSH GRIGGS

PU Y L EN T I L CH I C K EN SA L A D W I T H A P P L E AN D H A Z EL N UTS [recipe ne xt page]


CHICKEN, CASHEW AND COCONUT SOUP [recipe ne xt page]

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ONE-PAN CUMIN CHICKEN WITH ORANGE COUSCOUS, DATES AND ALMONDS [recipe ne xt page]

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Puy Lentil Chicken Salad with Apple and Hazelnuts Puy lentils are my go-to base for a range of salads. This one’s topped with tender chicken, juicy slices of apple and crunchy hazelnuts with a tangy mustard dressing. 4 single chicken breasts, skin on 2 teaspoons caraway seeds oil and butter, for cooking 1 cup puy lentils, cooked 2 cos lettuces, cut into wedges through the stem 1–2 braeburn apples, quartered, cored and thinly sliced

⅓ cup roasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped Dressing 4 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 1 clove garlic, crushed sea salt and ground pepper

400 grams assorted greens – choose one or a selection of green beans, snow peas and sugar snaps, blanched Dressing: Whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl and season. Salad: Season the chicken on both sides and sprinkle with caraway seeds. Heat a little oil and butter in a sauté pan and cook the chicken until fully cooked through. Set aside. Toss the lentils with 2 tablespoons of the dressing and season generously with salt and pepper. To serve: Divide the lentils between plates. Top with the lettuce wedges, apple, the green vegetables and sliced chicken. Drizzle the dressing over the top, then scatter with hazelnuts and a grind of pepper. Serves 4

PANTRY NOTE: Puy lentils are a small dark green lentil with a slight peppery flavour and hold their shape during cooking. They are the only lentil to be identified by area of cultivation – grown in the Le Puy region of France. To cook, cover with plenty of cold water, bring to the boil and cook until just tender but still with a little bite. Drain and rinse under cold water then drain well.

Chicken, Cashew and Coconut Soup A fabulous soup for all seasons, fragrant with kaffir lime leaves, coriander and cashew nuts. The quick pickled zucchini adds a sharp freshness. Serve it with bowls of cooked white rice to make it more substantial. Spice paste 3 cloves garlic 1 small red onion small handful coriander, stalks and leaves ¼ cup roasted cashew nuts, plus extra for garnish 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

Soup 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 double kaffir lime leaves 500 grams boneless, skin-off chicken thighs 3 cups chicken stock 3 zucchini, cut into bite-sized pieces 1½ cups coconut cream handful coriander and chopped chilli (optional), to serve

Spice paste: Roughly chop the garlic, onion and coriander and place in a small food processor with all the remaining ingredients and process to a smooth paste. You can also use a mortar and pestle. Soup: Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan and add the spice paste and kaffir lime leaves. Cook gently over a low heat for several minutes, stirring frequently to prevent it catching on the base of the pan. It should smell fragrant and still retain its green colour. Slice the chicken into 1cm strips and add to the saucepan. Season and cook for 5 minutes, stirring to coat well in the paste. Pour in the stock and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook for a few minutes until tender but still firm. Pour in the coconut cream, season to taste, and heat until the soup is hot (but don’t let it boil or it may separate). To serve: Chop most of the coriander and stir into the soup. Ladle into bowls and top with the Pickled Zucchini (recipe below), if making, the extra coriander and crushed cashew nuts. Serves 4–6

Pickled Zucchini 2 medium zucchini 4 tablespoons apple cider vinegar or rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon caster sugar good grind black pepper

Shave the zucchini into long strips using a vegetable peeler. Put the vinegar, caster sugar and pepper in a large bowl and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the zucchini and gently mix to combine. Marinate for 10 minutes, turning a couple of times.

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One-pan Cumin Chicken with Orange Couscous, Dates and Almonds An easy and super delicious one-pan dinner or weekend lunch packed with flavour from aromatic spices, chewy fresh dates and the crunch of roasted almonds 1 teaspoon each ground cumin and sea salt 4 single chicken breasts, skin on 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large red onion, thinly sliced Couscous 1 cup instant couscous finely grated zest and juice 1 orange boiling water 1 teaspoon orange or rose blossom water

1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon each ground turmeric and cinnamon 1 teaspoon sea salt To finish 2 cups frozen broad beans, blanched and peeled 8 fresh dates, pitted and roughly chopped ½ cup roasted skin-on almonds, roughly chopped good handful parsley, chopped small handful mint

2 cloves garlic, crushed Crush the cumin and salt together then sprinkle over the chicken. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan and cook the chicken until fully cooked through, turning for even browning. Transfer to a plate and cover to keep warm. Don’t wash the sauté pan. Add the onion to the same pan, cover and cook until tender. Couscous: Put the couscous in a large heat-proof bowl. Put the orange zest and juice in a measuring jug and add enough boiling water to make 1 cup of liquid. Stir in all the remaining ingredients, then pour over the couscous and mix to combine. Cover and leave for 10 minutes. To finish: Fluff up the couscous with a fork and add the broad beans, dates, almonds and parsley. Stir the couscous into the hot onions then cover and place over a very low heat for 3–4 minutes to heat through. Slice the chicken and arrange over the couscous. Pour over any juices and scatter with the mint. Serve with lemon wedges, if desired. Serves 4–6

Chicken, Lemongrass and Coriander Shu Mai Shu mai are open-topped dumplings that are filled with a well-flavoured stuffing of ground meat, fish, seafood or vegetables, then steamed. Serve with a dipping sauce for the perfect shared plate. 1 stalk lemongrass 300 grams good-quality chicken mince ¼ cup finely chopped coriander (include some of the tender stalk) 2 teaspoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons Shaoxing (Chinese cooking wine) 1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 1 clove garlic, crushed pinch chilli flakes 2 teaspoons cornflour To cook and serve 12 dumpling wrappers sliced fresh red chilli and coriander, to garnish (optional)

Grate the lemongrass on a fine grater. I used a microplane. Place in a large bowl along with all of the remaining ingredients and combine well. Brush the edge of each wrapper with water. Place the wrapper in the palm of your hand and put 2 teaspoons of the mixture in the centre. Bring the edges together, folding in and pinching them tightly to seal and make small pleats, like a little money bag, leaving the centres open. Place on a baking paper-lined tray that’s been dusted with a little flour, leaving space between each one otherwise they will stick together. To cook: Put the shu mai in a baking paper-lined steamer, making sure there is a little space between each one. Cover and cook for about 7 minutes or until the filling is firm and fully cooked through. Serve with the Soy and Lime Dipping Sauce (recipe below). Makes 12

Soy and Lime Dipping Sauce ¼ cup soy sauce 1 tablespoon lime juice

2 teaspoons chilli sauce, or more to taste 1 teaspoon sesame oil

Combine all the ingredients together in a serving bowl.

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CH ICK EN, LEMONGRASS AND CORIANDER S H U M AI

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Baked Chicken Pasta with Capers, Lemon and Spinach Cheesy and tender deliciousness all come together in one pan. The capers and lemon add a lovely tang and lightness to the sour cream sauce. 350 grams long slim pasta tubes (I used caserecce) 1 tablespoon olive oil 500 grams boneless, skinless chicken thighs 1 leek, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 teaspoons dried tarragon 2 tablespoons capers finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon

¼ cup white wine ½ cup chicken stock 6 silverbeet leaves, lower white stem removed, leaves finely shredded 200 grams sour cream ⅓ cup cream good handful shredded mozzarella sea salt and ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 180°C fan bake. Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling, salted water according to the packet instructions. Drain and toss with a little olive oil. Set aside. BAKED CHICKEN PASTA WITH CAPERS, LEMON AN D S PINACH

PROPS: Puy Lentil Chicken Salad: French Country Collections napkin from Father Rabbit (fatherrabbit.com). Plate and fork from Country Road (countryroad.com. au). Fume coaster from The Poi Room (thepoiroom.co.nz). Glass from Bolt of Cloth (boltofcloth.com). Chicken Soup: Bowl from Taylor Road Homewares (taylorroad.co.nz). Chopsticks from The Poi Room. Board from Bolt of Cloth. One-pan Cumin Chicken: Le Creuset pan from The Home Store (thehomestore.co.nz). Board, wooden plates and fabric from Bolt of Cloth. Shu Mai: Board and bamboo strainer from The Shelter (theshelter.co.nz). Bowl from Collected by Leanne Yare (collected.co.nz). Fume coaster and tumbler from The Poi Room. Small dish from Taylor Road Homewares. Baked Chicken Pasta: Enamel dish from The Home Store. Plates from The Shelter. Fresh produce from Farro Fresh (farrofresh..co.nz). Chicken from Neat Meat (neatmeat.com).

Cut the chicken into 1cm slices. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan and add the chicken. Season and cook over a high heat until lightly golden. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl. Add the leek, garlic and tarragon to the same pan and add a little more oil if needed. Season then cover and cook until tender. Stir in the capers, lemon zest and juice, the wine and stock and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for 5 minutes then stir in the silverbeet and turn until just wilted. Stir in the sour cream and cream until well combined. Add the chicken, with its juices, and the pasta and fold everything together. Tip into a large baking dish and sprinkle with the mozzarella. Bake for 15–20 minutes or until the top is golden. Serves 6

AND TO DRINK... Wine editor Yvonne Lorkin suggests drinks matches for these dishes

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1 Puy Lentil Chicken Salad with Apple and Hazelnuts Those gorgeous apple and hazelnut flavours make such an impact on the tastebuds, they just sing out for a super-fresh, mineral-edged white like the Brancott Estate Letter Series “F” Marlborough Pinot Gris 2015 ($22). With poached quince, apple and nashi notes, it’s a winner with this salad. Buy from thegoodwine.co.nz.

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Chicken, Cashew and Coconut Soup Something magical happens when you inject a splash of viognier into chardonnay – suddenly it becomes a peachy, apricot, tropical, creamy case of amazingness. The Decibel Amplified White 2014 ($22) is just that. Elderflower and lemon lifts it to other-worldly levels with this soup. To buy, email decibeldispatch@gmail.com. 2

3 One-pan Cumin Chicken with Orange Couscous, Dates and Almonds I love the Alpha Domus “Heroines” Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2015 ($23) with this dish because it has just the right amount of deliciously dry raspberry, cherry and rosehip aromas to merge beautifully with the richness of the dates and orange tang. It’s fresh, luscious and lipsmacking. Buy from alphadomus.co.nz.

Chicken and Lemongrass Shu Mai My favourite thing to sip with shu mai is always going to be a crisp, crunchy beer The new Mac’s Birthday Suit Double IPA ($15 x 4pk 330ml) is absolutely heaving with flavour. Crafted using six different (double dry-hopped) hops and buckets of pale and crystal malts, it’s awesome with all the chilli, ginger and garlic. Widely available to buy from supermarkets. 4

Baked Chicken Pasta with Capers, Lemon and Spinach The lemon, capers and sour cream make this a creamy but tangy dish. Pair it with a lean, peachy, lemony wine with a hint of lychee and quince. The Suavia Monte Carbonare 2014 ($29.90) is a gorgeous soave-style wine that drinks stunningly well with this recipe. Buy from sapori.co.nz. 5


LE CACH AT Visit marisco.co.nz for the recipe

THE NED PINOT ROSÉ As the days get longer and warmer we’re looking forward to balmy evenings with friends, enjoying fine wine, good food and easy conversation. For a tantalising match, enjoy a chilled botte of The Ned Pinot Rosé with Le Cachat – a traditional French cheese spread – along with garden-fresh spring

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BREAK FAST SA L A D WITH H A LO U M I A N D BLACK QUIN OA

RISE & SHINE Wake up happy with the prospect of these nourishing, satisfying and utterly delicious morning options. Recipes, photography and styling — KELLY GIBNEY

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Breakfast Salad with Haloumi and Black Quinoa (vg, gf) I feel great when I have a salad like this for breakfast. Use my recipe as a framework and add your own additions if you wish. Leftover roast vegetables would be great, as would some crispy bacon or prosciutto. 1 cup black quinoa (you could use white quinoa) 2 cups vegetable or chicken stock 4 free-range eggs (can be increased to 2 eggs per person) 150 grams baby kale leaves, rocket or mixed greens extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

sauerkraut, allow about ¼ cup per person (I used the Be Nourished brand) 200 grams haloumi cheese oil for frying 1 lemon, cut into wedges ground black pepper To garnish: micro-greens or sprouts, sesame seeds and fresh mint leaves

1 avocado, cut into slices 3 radishes, cut into wafer thin slices Rinse the quinoa well under running water using a fine sieve. Place in a saucepan with the stock. Bring to a boil before reducing to a simmer. Cook with a lid slightly ajar for 15–20 minutes until tender and the stock has been absorbed. Let sit for 5 minutes with the lid on. Bring another saucepan of water to a boil and carefully lower the eggs in. Cook for 6 minutes for soft-boiled eggs. Run under cold water and peel.

Props: Ceramic plates and vase from Bec Plowman Ceramics. Cake plate from Muck Floral (muck.co.nz). Wooden board from Citta (cittadesign.com).

Divide the quinoa and greens between 4 bowls or plates. Drizzle with olive oil. Top with the avocado, radish and sauerkraut. Halve the eggs and place on top. Cut haloumi into 5mm slices. Heat a couple of spoonfuls of oil in a sauté pan over a medium to high heat. Cook the haloumi for 1 minute on each side until golden brown. Place on top of the salad with lemon wedges for squeezing. Garnish with micro-greens, sesame seeds, fresh mint leaves and a generous grind of black pepper. Serves 4

Pear and Vanilla Baked Oatmeal with Coconut Custard (df) Breakfast can feel like dessert with this wholesome and delicious dish. Tart it up with coconut custard on weekends or prepare the night before to make weekday mornings easier. 2 cups rolled oats 2 free-range eggs, lightly beaten 1¼ cups full-fat coconut cream or almond milk 1½ teaspoons good-quality vanilla extract

¼ cup coconut sugar or light muscovado sugar, plus an extra teaspoon for sprinkling ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 2 ripe pears, cored and sliced (I used beurre bosc)

Preheat oven to 180°C. Combine all the ingredients (except pear) in a bowl and mix well. Grease an ovenproof dish really well. I used a 22cm-round skillet. Pour in half of the oat mixture. Tile the top of the batter with half of the pear slices. Pour the remaining batter on top and top with the remaining pear. Sprinkle with the teaspoon of sugar. Bake for 45 minutes until lightly firm and golden on top. Leave to sit for 15 minutes before serving. Cut into slices and serve with Coconut Custard, if desired (recipe below). Serves 6 COOKS NOTE: Leftover baked oatmeal will last 2 days in an

airtight container in the fridge. Gently reheat in a warm oven or enjoy cold.

Coconut Custard 1½ cups coconut cream 1½ tablespoons cornflour 1 cup almond milk

3 tablespoons coconut sugar or light muscovado sugar 3 free-range egg yolks

1 teaspoon vanilla paste Combine ¼ cup of the coconut cream with the cornflour and whisk until a smooth paste. Place in a medium saucepan along with the remaining coconut cream, the almond milk, vanilla and sugar. Cook for 5 minutes over a medium to low heat. Do not allow to boil or simmer heavily as this will split the custard. Combine the egg yolks with 3 tablespoons of the warmed milk in a small dish and whisk. This will ensure the egg yolks can be added to the pot without scrambling. Pour into the pot and whisk vigorously. Continue stirring for 5 minutes over the heat until the custard is thick and smooth. Set aside to cool for 15 minutes before serving. COOK’S NOTE: Cold custard will last 2 days in an airtight container in the fridge and can be gently reheated on the stove over a low heat.


DF P E A R A N D VA N I L L A BA K E D OAT M E A L W I T H C O C O N U T C U STA R D [recipe pre vious page]

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M I D D L E E AST E R N BEANS WITH BAKED EG GS

Middle Eastern Beans with Baked Eggs (df, gf, vg) Baked eggs and beans is such an easy way to feed a crowd. I love to serve this with kumara sourdough and a thick smear of butter. 1 medium onion, finely diced 3 garlic cloves, finely diced 1 piece celery, finely diced 1 red capsicum, seeds and core removed, sliced 1 lemon, zest only 1 teaspoon each ground cumin, curry powder ½ teaspoon each ground turmeric, garam masala 2 x 400-gram tins cannellini beans

1 x 400-gram tin butter beans 2 x 400-gram bottles tomato passata (I used the Mutti brand) 1 cup vegetable or chicken stock large handful baby spinach or baby kale leaves ghee or other oil for sautéing 4–6 free-range eggs To serve fresh parsley and pumpkin seeds

Heat a few spoonfuls of oil in a sauté pan over a medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and celery. Sauté until the onion is translucent. Add the capsicum, lemon zest and spices. Sauté for 1–2 minutes. Add the beans, tomato passata and stock. Bring to a boil before leaving to simmer for 45 minutes. Stir through the spinach or kale and cook for 1 further minute. Season to taste. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Spoon enough beans to half fill a 25cm round ovenproof dish. Use the back of a spoon to make indents for the eggs. Crack an egg into each of these and place in the oven to bake for 5–8 minutes until just set. Serve immediately with fresh parsley and pumpkin seeds. Serves 4–6 COOK’S NOTE: Leftover beans can be stored in an airtight

container in the fridge for up to 4 days or freeze for up to 1 month.


FARRO RISOT TO, ROASTED TOMATO ES, BROAD BEANS AND MOZ Z A R EL L A [recipe ne xt page]

RISOTTO

revolution Get inventive with rice alternatives and new flavour combinations and discover a fresh twist on an old favourite. Recipes — CLA IR E A LD O U S / Photography — AARON MCLEAN

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CAU L I F LOW E R RISOT TO WITH ROCKET, H A Z E L N U TS A N D HA LOUMI [recipe ne xt page]


MIXED MUSHROOM AND MISO RISOT TO [recipe ne xt page]


Farro Risotto, Roasted Tomatoes, Broad Beans and Mozzarella

Cauliflower Risotto with Rocket, Hazelnuts and Haloumi

Whole grains are readily available at most supermarkets these days and can be used in myriad recipes. Packed full of goodness, this risotto has a much more toothsome end result than a regular rice risotto.

A delicious grain-free “risotto” with a very short cooking time – you want the cauliflower to still retain some texture. Top with golden chunks of haloumi and roasted hazelnuts. 1 medium cauliflower

1 punnet cherry tomatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 leek, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 2 teaspoons dried tarragon 1½ cups farro, rinsed and drained

½ cup white wine 3 cups chicken or vegetable stock ¼ cup cream good handful parsley, chopped 2 cups frozen broad beans, blanched and peeled 1 large ball fresh mozzarella in whey, drained sea salt and ground pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil small knob butter 1 onion, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed ½ teaspoon caraway seeds 2 teaspoons finely chopped rosemary or thyme ¾ cup chicken or vegetable stock, hot

2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 handfuls rocket, roughly chopped ¾ cup freshly grated parmesan ¼ cup cream sea salt and ground pepper To finish 200 grams haloumi, cubed ⅓ cup roughly chopped roasted hazelnuts

grated zest 1 lemon Preheat the oven to 180°C fan bake. Put the tomatoes on a lined baking tray and roast until they are starting to split. Set aside until ready to serve. Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan and cook the leek, garlic, fennel seeds and tarragon with a good pinch of salt until tender. Add the farro and wine and let it bubble up and reduce down.

Cut the cauliflower into large pieces and grate on the coarse side of a box grater. Set aside. Heat the oil and butter in a large sauté pan and add the onion, garlic, caraway seeds and the rosemary with a good pinch of salt. Cover and cook until the onion is soft, stirring occasionally. Add the cauliflower and stir until well combined. Keeping the heat high, add the stock and cook until the cauliflower is only just tender but still with a little bite.

Add a third of the stock and cook, stirring occasionally until it is just about absorbed. Continue to cook over a medium heat adding more stock and letting it cook down until the farro is tender while still retaining a chewy texture. It should still be a little soupy at the end of cooking, if it’s too dry stir in more stock or water.

To finish: Heat a little olive oil in a sauté pan and cook the haloumi on all sides until golden.

Stir in the cream and when hot, gently mix through most of the chopped parsley and broad beans. Season to taste.

Spoon the risotto into shallow plates and top with the haloumi, hazelnuts and the remaining lemon zest. Serves 4

Add half of the lemon zest, all the lemon juice, the rocket, parmesan and cream. Stir to combine and season generously.

To serve: Spoon the risotto on to warm plates and add the roasted tomatoes. Rip the mozzarella into 4 pieces and place on top. Garnish with the remaining parsley, a drizzle of olive oil and a grind of pepper. Serves 4

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Mixed Mushroom and Miso Risotto This traditional risotto gets a Japanese flavour by using a miso stock. You can use any combination of mushrooms available. 4 cups chicken stock

2 cloves garlic, crushed

3 tablespoons white (shiro) miso

1 cup risotto rice – arborio or vialone nano

300 grams Swiss brown mushrooms 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon sesame oil 100 grams shiitake mushrooms, stalks trimmed

½ cup white wine 2 tablespoons mascarpone small handful parsley, chopped 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds sea salt and ground pepper

knob of butter 1 onion, finely chopped Put the stock in a saucepan and bring to the boil then whisk in the miso until dissolved. Cover to keep warm. Cut half the Swiss browns into quarters and thickly slice the rest. Heat both oils in a large sauté pan and when hot, add the Swiss browns and cook without turning for 3 minutes. Turn over then add the shiitakes and cook for another 2–3 minutes until just soft. Remove with a slotted spoon to a bowl and cover to keep warm. Don’t wash the pan. Add the butter to the same pan along with the onion and garlic. Season then cover and cook until tender, stirring occasionally. Add the rice and cook for two minutes then add the wine and let it bubble up and reduce down. Add the hot stock a ladle at a time, stirring and adding another ladle when it’s almost been absorbed. The risotto is cooked when al dente. Season to taste. To serve: Stir in the mascarpone and half each of the parsley and the mushrooms along with any juices in the bowl. Divide between warm serving bowls and top with the remaining mushrooms and parsley and the sesame seeds. Serves 4

PANTRY NOTE: Arborio rice is a fat, short-grain Italian rice that is high in starch, essential for a creamy risotto. It is available from supermarkets and specialty food stores. Vialone nano is similar, but better suited to a wetter risotto. It is available at specialty food stores and some supermarkets.

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Quinoa Risotto, Roasted Pumpkin and Crispy Bacon Quinoa is a very mild tasting “grain” and needs well-flavoured ingredients to bring out the best in it. This is now a fairly standard pantry ingredient and is widely available. 500 grams pumpkin, peeled and thinly sliced olive oil sea salt and ground pepper Risotto 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 fennel bulb, diced with fronds reserved 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 teaspoons finely chopped rosemary

½ cup white wine 4 cups chicken or vegetable stock, hot juice half a lemon ⅓ cup freshly grated parmesan cheese ⅓ cup sour cream To serve 12 slices streaky bacon, cooked until crisp ½ cup toasted pine nuts

1 cup white quinoa, rinsed in a fine sieve Preheat the oven to 180°C fan bake. Brush the pumpkin with olive oil, salt and pepper and place in a single layer on a lined baking tray. Roast until tender then set aside. Risotto: Heat the oil in a large sauté pan and cook the fennel, garlic and rosemary with a good pinch of salt until tender. Add the quinoa and the wine and let it bubble up and reduce down. Add a couple of ladles of stock to the pan and when it’s absorbed add more stock. It will cook much quicker than a regular risotto and you only need to stir it occasionally. When cooked take off the heat and stir in the lemon juice, parmesan and sour cream. Roughly chop half of the pumpkin and stir into the risotto. To serve: Divide the risotto between warm plates and top with the remaining sliced pumpkin, the bacon, pine nuts and reserved fennel fronds. Serves 4


QUINOA RISOT TO, ROASTED PUMPKIN A N D C R I S PY BAC ON


Citrus and Cinnamon Risotto Sometimes a dessert only needs a couple of flavours to produce a wonderful, indulgent result – this is one of them. ⅔ cup arborio or other risotto rice 4 cups milk ½ cup caster sugar

2 long strips each orange and lemon zest 1 cinnamon stick pinch salt

½ teaspoon vanilla bean paste or extract Place all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring slowly to a boil. CITRUS AND CINNAMON RISOT TO

Reduce the heat to low so the milk is just at a gentle simmer and cook uncovered for 30 minutes or until the pudding is thick and the rice is just tender. A simmer mat is perfect for this. Stir the rice frequently to prevent it catching on the base of the saucepan. Remove the zests and cinnamon stick and spoon into warm glasses or bowls. Dust with a little cinnamon to serve. Serves 4

PROPS: Farro Risotto: Wooden board and blue bowl from Molloys of Milford (molloysantiques.co.nz). Cauliflower Risotto: Bowls and side bowl by Ann O'Sullivan (annosullivanpottery.co.nz). Mixed Mushroom Risotto: Planter from Corso di Fiori (corso.co.nz). Quinoa Risotto: Bowl from Bashford Antiques (bashford.co.nz). All others from The Props Department (thepropsdepartment.co.nz). Fresh produce from Farro Fresh (farrofresh. co.nz). Meat from Neat Meat (neatmeat.com).

AND TO DRINK... Wine editor Yvonne Lorkin suggests drinks matches for these dishes

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1 Farro Risotto, Roasted Tomatoes, Broad Beans and Mozzarella At just five per cent ABV (quite low in the craft beer scheme of things), the Harrington’s East Indies Lager 500ml ($9) is absolutely perfect for this dish. It’s crisp and light, yet shows rich malty flavours and boasts a ribbon of citrusy hops through the mid-palate. It’s delicious with the tangy tomato elements in this risotto too. Buy from beercellar.co.nz.

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Cauliflower Risotto with Rocket, Hazelnuts and Haloumi People often put cauliflower in the toohard basket when it comes to a wine match – but that’s possibly because they’ve not tasted the Gibbston Valley Red Shed Pinot Blanc 2015 ($39).This pinot blanc is vibrant, fresh and chalkydry, but has a delicate floral, citrus and melon mash-up in the mouth, making it perfect with the hazelnut and haloumi combo. Buy from gibbstonvalley.com.

Quinoa Risotto, Roasted Pumpkin and Crispy Bacon This dish cries out for the ultra-creamy Morambro Creek Padthaway Chardonnay 2012 ($34). Lovers of old-school oaky, toasty chardonnay will love the tangy grapefruit, lemon zest and ripe, juicy peach flavours that squash together in the glass and explode in a seriously creamy, caramelised layer that leaves an “aaaah” of awesome. For stockists in your area, phone Co Pilot Distributors (09) 412 9137.

Mixed Mushroom and Miso Risotto The umami intensity of the miso, mixed in with the rich, savoury mushrooms, calls for a pinot noir that’s both earthy and meaty, yet shows masses of fresh fruit to inject some sweetness and spiciness to this dish. I recommend the Jules Taylor Marlborough Pinot Noir 2015 ($29). Buy from glengarrywines.co.nz.

Citrus and Cinnamon Risotto This is quite possibly the most stylish version of rice pudding I’ve ever tasted. The Brookfields “Indulgence” Viognier 2014 375ml ($20) has the perfect mix of toffee’d sweetness, ripe, tangy apricot and spicy, roast peach flavours alongside a long, luscious finish. Buy from glengarrywines.co.nz.

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TR E N D

the crumpet craze Traditionally a British tea-time treat, but more recently enjoyed as the base for a hearty sweet or savoury breakfast or brunch, Dish considers the growing popularity of crumpets – along with a fail-safe recipe to make at home. Words — LISA MORTON / Recipe — CLAIRE ALDOUS Photography — M ANJA WACH S M UCH

C

rumpets have increasingly been found popping up in toasters around the country, and it seems to be a trend that’s not about to die away any time soon. And why should it? Like toasties, crumpets are associated with a sense of comfort and nostalgia. As a breakfast or afternoon tea treat they’re customarily enjoyed slathered with butter, honey, golden syrup or jam. More recently, creative chefs around the country are outdoing themselves in coming up with imaginative sweet and savoury ideas that transform them from snack-size bites to a filling meal to set you up for the day. A crumpet is a yeast-leavened thick pancake, usually round due to it being cooked either in a pan or a metal ring on top of a griddle or skillet. As they’re made from batter they need to be contained while they cook or they will lose their shape. A crumpet needs to have a lot of air bubbles along its surface – which are then the perfect channels for melting butter to travel down once cooked and toasted. Thought to originate in Anglo Saxon Britain, the earliest written reference to a “crompid cake” is found in a 14thcentury text written by English Bible translator John Wycliffe. Early forms of crumpets are thought to be pancake-like and cooked on a griddle, with regional variations that developed into the Welsh and northern England pikelet. In Victorian times the crumpet evolved into the spongy yeast-based teacakes that are more familiar today. Until recently the most common crumpets available locally were found ready-made in supermarkets, but options have now become more plentiful. What’s behind the trend? Kraken Crumpets have a dedicated crumpet food truck found at farmers' markets around Auckland. The business began when owners Hamish Macdonald and Amy Sisson returned to New Zealand following a period living in Turkey and Asia. The couple were inspired by the street food vendors they encountered. “[It] sparked the idea to start a food cart. Crumpets seemed like a great fit as everyone has eaten supermarket crumpets, but few people have ever seen them

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being made or tasted a fresh crumpet,” explains Hamish. Notoriously difficult to perfect, their advice to make a crumpet with the best combination of sponginess, chewiness and a slightly crispy base? “As with most yeast-based recipes there are a whole lot of factors that can affect the end product, but our biggest tip is to give it time. The temperature you cook them at also plays a huge factor, too hot and they will burn before they bubble, but too cold and the bubbles won't form in the first place. It’s a delicate balancing act.” Marc Weir, owner of Wellington's Loretta cafe, says it took time to refine their recipe.“We cook on a low heat, cooking on one side only, not flipping, until small holes appear on the top and it starts to dry. The small holes throughout the crumpet are vital to give it texture.” Along the road at Field & Green, chef and co-owner Laura Greenfield developed her recipe from Felicity Cloake’s “How to make the Perfect…” column in The Guardian. Laura then created her own variation, “whereby I make a large crumpet (which is the size of my frypans) that is then cut into six wedges, sliced then toasted to order”. Similarly, one of the popular breakfast menu choices at Auckland’s Orphans Kitchen are wedges of chef Tom Hishon’s pan-cooked thick, spongy crumpets, drizzled in burnt butter and their own roof-top honey. Some of our favourite topping options include Auckland's Little and Friday's light-as-air crumpets with Caramelised Banana, Hazelnut, Mascarpone and Fred’s Honeycomb. For a savoury option, the Pah Homestead cafe's serving of Smoked Fish, Caper Beurre Blanc and Parsley with Poached Egg is difficult to go past on their all-day breakfast menu. Later this year, Field & Green will collaborate with the Ritual Tea Company for a Tea & Crumpet pop-up featuring lemon curd, (English) marmite and smoked salmon mousse. For the traditional at heart, lashings of butter is the essential – and only – addition required as the spongy texture of the crumpet absorbs it extremely well. However, as Hamish of Kraken Crumpets reflects, “The crumpet is such a versatile base, it lends itself to all sorts of experimentation”.


TOPPINGS TO TRY

* Ricotta, sliced banana and salted caramel sauce * Mixed berry compote, mascarpone and honeycomb * Whipped honey and cinnamon butter, ginger poached pears and roasted almonds * Coconut yoghurt, chia berry jam and fresh raspberries

Scrumptious Crumpets After much trial and error, I found the combination of using two flours along with milk and water resulted in a fabulous light and tasty crumpet. ⅔ cup plain flour 1 cup high grade flour 1 tablespoon instant dry yeast (I used 1 sachet Edmonds) ¾ cup milk ½ cup water 1 tablespoon caster sugar 1 teaspoon sea salt ½ teaspoon baking soda 3 tablespoons warm water Combine both of the flours and the yeast in a large bowl. Warm the milk and water until tepid then stir in the sugar and salt to dissolve. Pour on to the flour and beat with a wooden spoon to combine well. Cover with plastic wrap and leave in

a warm place for about 1 hour or until the batter has risen and the surface is covered with tiny bubbles. Dissolve the baking soda in the 3 tablespoons of warm water then stir into the batter. Cover again and set aside for 30 minutes. To cook: Heat a sauté pan over a low heat and brush lightly with butter. Sit crumpet rings (see Cook's Note) in the pan and spoon in enough batter to half fill. If using blini pans, grease lightly and also half fill. Cook until the crumpets have risen and the tops have bubbled and burst to form holes and they look dry on the surface. This will take at least 6–7 minutes if the heat is at the right temperature and

longer depending on how deep the rings are. If too hot, the bottoms will burn before the centres are cooked. The crumpets can be cooled then toasted to serve or, if eating immediately, turn them over in the pan and cook until golden. Makes 6–10 (depending on their size, I used 12cm blini pans which made six generous-sized crumpets) COOK'S NOTE: Unless the crumpet

rings are non-stick, I found the stainless steel rings very difficult to work with and couldn’t easily remove the crumpets. For a great result, I greased the insides of the rings and lined them with strips of baking paper to fit neatly before I filled them with batter.

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pickle power Make every meal, snack or platter a super one with the addition of a zingy homemade pickle.. Recipes — JA N E LYO N S / Photography — M ANJA WACHS M UTH

Despite their seemingly trendy renaissance of late, pickles really are a timeless culinary treasure. Whether they’re tucked into a sandwich, dotted over a salad, embellishing a cheeseboard, folded into buttery bread or simply eaten straight from the jar – they provide flavour, depth and life. Pickling is also a fantastic way of using up any old vegetables that may be lolling around the vegetable bins or gracing the back of the pantry.


Chilli and Fennel Pickle Crunchy, fresh and delicately spicy, this quick pickle is gorgeous served in a salad topped with creamy burrata or as an accompaniment to fish dishes. 2 cups white wine vinegar ½ cup water 2 tablespoons sugar

1 fresh red chilli, thinly sliced 2 large heads of fennel, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon sea salt Bring vinegar, water, sugar and salt to a gentle simmer in a saucepan. Leave to cool to room temperature. Place chilli and fennel in a 4-cup capacity, sterillised jar and top with the liquid. Seal jar and place in the fridge. The pickles will be ready to eat in 2 hours but can be left in the fridge for up to 4 weeks after opening. The longer they’re left, the more sour they’ll be.

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Dill Pickles Something about the classic dill pickle just works. The scent alone of these gorgeous pickles will have your tastebuds in a trance. Divine on their own or served alongside crumbed fish and chunky chips, this will fast-become a favourite recipe. 1 tablespoon chilli flakes

3 peeled whole garlic cloves

2 tablespoons dill seeds

5 baby cucumbers, cut into quarters lengthways

2 tablespoons sea salt (if you salt your cucumbers, you won’t need this salt)

1 cup cider vinegar 1 cup water COOK’S TIP: If you prefer a

Add chilli flakes, dill seeds, salt (if using) and garlic into a 4-cup capacity, sterlised jar. Place cucumbers standing on top of the dry ingredients. Heat vinegar and water together in a saucepan until it reaches a simmer. Cool to room temperature and pour over cucumbers. Seal and refrigerate for a week before eating. Pickles will last for up to six weeks in the fridge.

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crunchier pickle, chop your cucumbers and sit them in a bowl of sea salt for 4 hours prior to pickling. Remove from salt, rinse and drain carefully before using. This will draw out the moisture and keep them crunchy.


Sweet and Sour Beetroot Pickle Earthy ribbons of beetroot take on the tangy sweet and sour liquids in this simple pickle. Lovely with blue cheese and oat crackers, or in place of a chutney with pies and quiches. 3 medium-sized beetroot

100ml water

100ml balsamic vinegar

¼ cup sugar

300ml white wine vinegar

pinch of black pepper

Peel the beetroot into small ribbons with a potato peeler. Place the ribbons in a 3-cup capacity, sterilised jar. Heat the liquids in a medium saucepan with the sugar and black pepper until it reaches a simmer. Remove from heat, cool and pour into the jar over the beetroot. Wipe the rim of the jar with a paper towel and seal. Follow heat process (page 87). These will last in a cool, dark place for up to 12 months. Once opened, these will keep in the fridge for two months.

Pickled Mixed Mushrooms A bit different from the usual pickling suspects, these sour and spicy morsels are beautiful scattered on ramen and noodle dishes, added to broths or tucked into rice paper rolls. 2 cups mixed mushrooms, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons julienned fresh ginger 2 cups rice vinegar

½ cup water 1 tablespoon tamari 1 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon sugar

COOK’S TIP: Run cold water over the beetroot as you peel the ribbons to minimise the purple-hands-effect of beetroot. Or, of course, you can use disposable gloves.

Combine mushrooms and ginger and place in a 3-cup capacity, sterilised jar. Heat rice vinegar, water, tamari, salt and sugar in a saucepan until it reaches a boil. Remove from heat and pour into jar. Seal and refrigerate. These will last for 7–10 days in the fridge. DISH

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Carrot, Turmeric and Ginger Pickle 3 cups thinly sliced carrots (or use a combination of whole baby carrots and sliced) 2 tablespoons shaved fresh ginger

2 cups cider vinegar 1 cup water 2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon sea salt

2 tablespoons shaved fresh turmeric Mix together carrot, ginger and turmeric in a bowl. Heat vinegar, water, salt and sugar together in a saucepan until it reaches a boil. Simmer for two minutes and remove from heat. Cool liquid until it reaches room temperature. Pack carrot mix into a 4-cup capacity, sterilised jar and top with pickling liquid. Wipe the rim of the jar with a paper towel and seal. Follow heat process (page 87). These will last in a cool, dark place for up to 12 months. Once opened, these will keep in the fridge for two months.

COOK’S TIP: This recipe is a great basic pickling option. Try it with other vegetables such as cauliflower and radishes.

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P I CK LI N G

tips & tricks Sterilising jars

Storage

Sterilising jars is a vital part of the pickling process and can be done very easily. Simply wash the jars in hot soapy water, rinse well, then place in a cold oven. Heat the oven to 100°C – once this heat has been reached, leave jars inside the oven until they have completely dried. Remove carefully. To sterilise lids, place them in a large pot of boiling water for 5–7 minutes. Remove and wipe with a clean paper towel, ensuring they are completely dry.

A key thing to remember before sealing jars is to wipe the rims with a paper towel. If you want to store your pickles for an extended period (up to 12 months), heatprocessing the jars is a good option (see below). Once opened, all pickles should be kept in the refrigerator.

Packing jars Once jars are sterilised and cooled, vegetables can be carefully packed in. The aim is to get as many vegetables in the jars as possible – without damaging them. You should be able to fill the jars with liquid to just below the rim, ensuring the vegetables are fully submerged in the pickling liquid – if they poke out of the liquid, they can quickly become discoloured and deteriorate. Ridding jars of bubbles before sealing is important too, in order to minimise risk of microorganism growth. Tapping jars on the kitchen bench will get rid of any bubbles that may have formed.

Heat processing Once your pickles are sealed in their jars you can heat process them. Heat processing helps to prevent bacteria growing, by using heat and pressure. To heat process your pickles, sit the jars in a large pot of warm water so they are at least three-quarters submerged. Bring the water to boiling point and let jars sit for five minutes. Remove carefully after five minutes. The lids should be concave. If you would rather not heat process your pickles, keep the jars in the fridge and use them within 6 weeks.

Zero-waste pickling If you have any vegetables on the brink of being too old, or if you’re going away for a period of time and clearing out the fridge, pickling is a wonderful idea. Limp carrots rolling around the fridge? Pickle them and enjoy with cheese toasties later on.

PROPS: Chilli and Fennel Pickle: Wooden plates from Nest (nest-direct.com). Houston Design tumblers from Douglas & Bec (douglasandbec.com). Dill Pickles: Small bowl from Houston Design (houstondesignco. bigcartel.com). Blue plate from Indie Home Collective (indiehomecollective.com). Beetroot and Mushroom Pickles: Wonki Ware bowl and white plate from Indie Home Collective. AY Illuminate glasses from Tessuti (shop.tessuti.co.nz). Side plates from Houston Design. Carrot Pickle: Plates and small bowl from Houston Design. Tips & Tricks: Small bowl from Houston Design. All others from The Props Department (thepropsdepartment.co.nz).

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TO BE CONFIDENT YOU’RE BUYING THE VERY BEST NEW ZEALAND HAS TO OFFER, LOOK FOR THE NEW ZEALAND BEEF AND LAMB QUALITY MARK.


An essential component of any recipe is having the right cut of meat for the job. As with all cooking, the best quality meat will give a superior end result. Take the time to get to know your meat, one cut at a time. THE CUT Mince is one of the most versatile beef products and is more often than not cooked with other ingredients to bring out the flavour. A staple in the kitchen, mince can be dressed up for entertaining or used for flavoursome everyday meals. The options are endless and just like all beef and lamb cuts, mince gives you a boost of protein and iron to keep you feeling energised.

COOKING TIPS Browning mince is essential to bring out the flavour and colour. To ensure it doesn’t stew, cook in batches – if it begins to stew and water gathers at the bottom of the pan, the mince will taste like it has been boiled. Add a dash of oil to a hot pan before adding mince. Stir to ensure the mince browns evenly and does not stick to the pan. Take the mince from the heat and strain away the liquid. Reheat the pan with a further dash of oil and return the drained mince to the pan to begin the browning process again. Your final dish will have more flavour and colour.

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TO SERVE Better burgers: A good beef patty is the key to a successful homemade burger. And there are so many variations: add lots of chopped parsley, chill flakes and garlic, along with breadcrumbs and egg, and serve in pita bread with yoghurt and mint sauce; combine mince meat with red kidney beans, tomato paste and Mexican spices and serve as mini patties in sliders with guacamole and grilled corn; or go classic Kiwi and serve up your beef patties with a fried egg and beetroot. Magic meatballs: Everyone loves spaghetti and meatballs, topped with lots of tasty parmesan but there are many variations to get the family rushing to the table: combine beef mince with parsley, coriander and ground coriander, cumin, paprika and allspice and squeeze around a skewer to make kofta, served with fragrant rice and yoghurt sauce; adding vegetables, such as chopped, cooked spinach, or grated carrot or zucchini to your meatball mix will have the kids eating their veges without complaint.

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CAUL I F LOW ER AND C H I C K P E A V EG E BALLS WITH PARSLEY AND CO R I A N D ER P ESTO [recipe ne xt page]

having a ball There’s so much more to meatballs than spaghetti and cheese – these light and lovely options are jammed full of wonderfully enticing flavour. Recipes, photography and styling — SARAH TUCK


JAMBA L AYA C H I C K E N A N D P O R K BA L LS WITH S P I CY SAU C E AN D P R AW N S [recipe ne xt page]


Cauliflower and Chickpea Vege Balls with Parsley and Coriander Pesto

Jambalaya Chicken and Pork Balls with Spicy Sauce and Prawns

My sister declared these the best things I have ever made, and given how often I cook that is really saying something – even noncauliflower lovers adore them. Ideal for a lazy weekend brunch, light lunch or dinner.

The great thing about this recipe is you can crank the heat up or down to suit your taste. They make a perfect do-ahead dinner.

2 tablespoons olive oil ¼ cauliflower, finely chopped 1 large stick celery, finely chopped ½ onion, finely chopped 1 tablespoon curry powder 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 390-gram tin chickpeas, drained 3 pieces toast bread, crusts removed, whizzed in the food processor 1 egg ½ cup chopped walnuts ⅓ cup currants rice bran or light olive oil spray

1 cup coriander, roughly chopped ⅓ cup grated parmesan ⅓ cup olive oil 1 small clove garlic, crushed ½ cup walnuts 3 tablespoons Greek yoghurt or whole egg mayonnaise finely grated zest of 1 lemon To serve 4 cups salad greens such as watercress, baby rocket or spinach 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 4 poached eggs ¼ cup coriander leaves

Pesto 1 cup parsley, roughly chopped Heat the oil in a large frying pan and cook the cauliflower, celery and onion for 5 minutes. Add the spices and a little salt and pepper and cook a further 8–10 minutes until the vegetables are soft. Cool, then put the mixture in a food processor with the chickpeas, breadcrumbs and egg. Pulse to combine, add the walnuts and currants and pulse very briefly to mix through. Tip out into a large bowl and roll into 20 small balls. Cover and refrigerate for half an hour. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line two baking trays with baking paper. Spray the balls very lightly with oil and bake for 20 minutes or until golden and cooked through. Pesto: Whiz the pesto ingredients together in a small food processor. Season to taste with salt and pepper and add a little water to thin further, if desired. Serve the vege balls with salad greens tossed with oil and vinegar, poached eggs, a good dollop of pesto and a sprinkling of coriander. Serves 4

Spicy sauce 2 tablespoons olive oil

400 grams chicken thighs, roughly chopped

1 onion, finely chopped

500 grams pork mince

1 stick of celery, finely chopped ½ green capsicum, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon chopped thyme 1 teaspoon each dried oregano, sweet smoked paprika ½ teaspoon celery seeds ⅛–¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ¼–½ teaspoon chilli flakes 700 grams tomato passata 1 bay leaf 1–2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce Meatballs 4 slices white toast bread, crusts removed ¼ cup milk

1 stick celery ½ each red and green capsicum ½ cup parsley, plus extra 2 tablespoons thyme leaves 5 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika 1 tablespoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 egg 1 cup breadcrumbs ¼ cup flour rice bran or light olive oil spray Prawns 1 tablespoon olive oil 300 grams raw prawns ½ teaspoon chilli flakes rice, to serve

Spicy sauce: Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan. Cook the onion, celery and capsicum over a medium heat for 10 minutes, until softened. Season and add the garlic and herbs and spices. Cook for 3–4 minutes, then add remaining ingredients with ½ cup of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Meatballs: Soak the bread slices in the milk for 10 minutes. Put the chicken in a food processor and whiz to blend. Add the pork. Roughly chop the celery, capsicums, ½ cup parsley and thyme. Add to the processor along with the garlic, paprika, oregano and cayenne pepper. Pulse to combine. Squeeze bread gently to remove excess milk. Add to the mixture with the egg. Pulse again to combine, then tip out into a large bowl. Combine the breadcrumbs and flour on a flat plate. Roll the mixture into 26–28 balls, rolling gently in the breadcrumb mixture as you go. Cover and chill for at least an hour, up to overnight. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line two oven trays with baking paper. Spray the balls lightly with oil and cook for 25–30 minutes, or until cooked through. Reheat the sauce and heat the remaining oil in a frying pan. Cook the prawns for 2 minutes, season with chilli flakes, salt and pepper and cook further until pink and cooked through. Serve the meatballs with rice, the spicy sauce, prawns and a sprinkling of finely chopped extra parsley. Serves 6–8

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MED I T E R R A N E A N MEAT BA L LS W I T H OLIVES, FETA AND MINT [recipe ne xt page]


SA L M ON BALLS W I T H AVOCADO AND L EM O N DILL MAYO

Mediterranean Meatballs with Olives, Feta and Mint These meatballs are rich with the sunny flavours of the Med – mint, oregano, olives, lemon and feta. They are fabulous slathered with creamy yoghurt mayo with the crunch of red onion, fresh mint and briney olives on the side. Meatballs 3 slices white toast bread, crusts removed ¼ cup milk ½ red onion, roughly chopped 1 kilogram lamb mince

Salmon Balls with Avocado and Lemon Dill Mayo These light, flavour-packed and utterly addictive morsels make an elegant lunch, starter or light dinner with a crisp glass of white. 250 grams salmon 250 grams white fish (I used gurnard) ½ onion, chopped ½ stick celery, finely chopped 2 tablespoons dill, finely chopped ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 tablespoons mayonnaise ½ red capsicum, finely chopped finely grated zest of 1 lemon

rice bran or light olive oil spray Lemon dill mayo ⅔ cup whole egg mayonnaise finely grated zest of 1 lemon ⅓ cup roughly chopped dill 1 teaspoon American mustard To serve 2 cos lettuces, washed and separated 2 avocados, sliced ¼ cup dill fronds, to garnish

1½ cups panko crumbs Roughly chop the salmon and white fish, add to a food processor with the onion and pulse to combine. Tip out into a large bowl and add the celery, dill, cayenne, mayonnaise, capsicum and lemon zest.

½ cup parsley 1 tablespoon dried oregano 4 cloves garlic, crushed ½ teaspoon chilli flakes ⅓ cup chopped mint finely grated zest of 1 lemon 200 grams feta, roughly chopped

⅔ cup roughly chopped black olives (buy ones with stones for more flavour) rice bran or light olive oil spray Dressing ⅔ cup whole egg mayonnaise ⅔ cup Greek yoghurt To serve Turkish bread 1½ cups cherry tomatoes, sliced ½ cucumber, sliced ½ red onion, finely sliced ¼ cup mint leaves ⅔ cup black olives

1 egg ½ cup pine nuts Meatballs: Soak the bread slices in milk for 10 minutes. Put the onion in a food processor and whiz to a paste. Add the lamb, parsley, oregano, garlic, chilli, mint, lemon and half the feta. Squeeze the bread gently to remove any excess milk and add to the mixture with the egg. Pulse to combine, then tip out into a large bowl. Add the pine nuts, olives and remaining feta, crumbled. Mix to combine and roll into 34–36 golf ball-sized balls. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes and up to 6 hours.

Mix well and roll into 16 balls and coat in panko crumbs. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour, up to 6 hours.

Preheat the oven to 190°C.

Preheat the oven to 190°C.

Spray the balls very lightly with oil. Cook for 20–24 minutes until golden and cooked through.

Line two trays with baking paper. Spray the balls lightly with oil and bake for 20 minutes or until cooked through. Lemon dill mayo: Whiz the mayonnaise, lemon, dill and mustard in a small food processor. Thin with water to your desired consistency. Serve the salmon balls with lettuce and avocado, drizzled with dressing and a sprinkling of dill. Serves 4

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Dressing: While the balls are cooking, mix the yoghurt and mayonnaise to create a creamy dressing. To serve: Serve the balls with warm Turkish bread (or your favourite wraps or flat breads), tomatoes, cucumber, a drizzle of dressing and a sprinkling of red onion and mint, with olives on the side. Serves 6–8


Discover perfection within

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P UFFE D QUIN OA A N D CAS H E W P O R K SCHNITZEL WITH PA R S N I P A N D TA HINI MASH

NUTS & SEEDS Nature’s little nutrient-packed nuggets are put to most delicious use. Recipes — C LAIR E A LD O U S / Photography — AARON MCLEAN

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Almond, Banana and Coconut Loaf with Dark Chocolate (gf) Wanting to use up the pulp from making almond milk (see next page for recipe) and with a growing stock pile of over-ripe bananas in my freezer, this recipe ticked all the boxes. Dense and moist with little pockets of dark chocolate, it’s a gorgeous accompaniment to a glass of chilled almond milk. 2 cups mashed, very ripe bananas (about 5 medium)

Puffed Quinoa and Cashew Pork Schnitzel with Parsnip and Tahini Mash

4 large eggs, size 7 ¼ cup melted butter 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Pork schnitzel is always a favourite and this delicious topping with puffed quinoa is much lighter than traditional breadcrumb.

1½ cups almond pulp 1 cup desiccated coconut

Mash 800 grams parsnips, peeled and core removed 2 cloves garlic, crushed ¼ cup almond milk or regular milk ¼ cup cream 2 tablespoons tahini sea salt and ground pepper Crumb ½ cup roasted cashew nuts, finely ground

½ cup puffed quinoa

1 cup brown sugar

2 tablespoons chia seeds 1 teaspoon baking soda, sifted ¼ teaspoon sea salt ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg 100 grams dark chocolate, roughly chopped (62% cocoa) ¼ cup shredded coconut icing sugar, for dusting

1 tablespoon sesame seeds 1 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves

Grease a 6-cup capacity loaf tin and line fully with baking paper. My tin is 12cm x 22cm and 7cm deep.

2 teaspoons chia seeds

Preheat the oven to 150°C fan bake.

sea salt and ground pepper

Combine the bananas, eggs, butter and vanilla in a bowl.

To cook 2 eggs, lightly beaten

Put the almond pulp, coconut, brown sugar, chia seeds, baking soda, salt and nutmeg in another large bowl and combine well, making sure there are no lumps.

500 grams pork fillet olive oil and butter, for cooking sprigs of fresh thyme, optional

Mash: Roughly chop the parsnips and cook in boiling salted water until tender. Drain well then tip back into the saucepan and put back over a low heat to drive off excess moisture. Put in a blender or food processor with all the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth. Add extra cream or milk, if needed, to get the desired consistency. Keep warm while cooking the pork or reheat before serving. Crumb: Combine all the ingredients in a shallow bowl and season.

Add the banana mixture and fold everything together then stir in the chocolate. Pour into the tin and scatter over the shredded coconut. Bake for 40 minutes then loosely cover the top with foil to prevent it over-browning and bake for a further 40 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cool in the tin. To serve: Cut into thick slices and serve dusted with icing sugar.

Put the eggs in another bowl and season. To cook: Cut the pork fillet into 3cm thick pieces, then flatten to 1cm thick. Dip in the eggs, letting the excess drip back into the dish, then coat in the crumbs, pressing them to adhere. Heat a generous glug of olive oil and a knob of butter in a large sauté pan and when medium hot, add the schnitzel. Cook for 2–3 minutes each side, watching the heat so the crumb doesn’t catch and burn and turning carefully so the coating stays attached. Add the thyme to the pan when cooking the second side.

COOK’S TIP: The almond pulp needs to be quite dry before using in this loaf recipe. After making the milk, place it in a clean tea towel and squeeze it tightly to remove any remaining liquid.

To serve: Divide the hot mash between plates. Top with the schnitzel and thyme sprigs, if using, and spoon over some of the buttery juices from the pan. Serves 4

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Nut Milk Non-dairy milks are increasingly popular and can be made with a single variety of nut or a combination. Using half and half of almonds with something more expensive, such as macadamias or pistachios, makes it a little more affordable. Don’t throw the pulp away as it can be used in the gluten-free Almond, Banana and Coconut Loaf with Dark Chocolate (see previous page). 1½ cups raw almonds 4 cups hot water pinch sea salt

½–1 teaspoon vanilla extract or paste maple syrup or honey, to taste

Place the almonds in a large bowl and cover with plenty of cold tap water. Leave on the bench for 12–24 hours. Drain and discard the soaking water and rinse the almonds well. Place in a blender or high-powered food processor with the hot water, salt, vanilla and maple syrup. Blend on high until very smooth. This will take at least 2 minutes. Place a sieve over a large bowl and line with a double layer of damp muslin or use a nut milk bag. Pour in about 1 cup of milk and firmly press through with the back of a spoon until the pulp is quite dry. Scoop the nut pulp from the sieve into a separate bowl and continue straining the remaining milk in batches. Transfer to a jar, seal and refrigerate for up to 3 days. Makes about 4 cups

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COOK’S TIPS: Make sure the nuts are fresh – rancid nuts are very unpalatable.

Don’t use roasted or salted nuts – raw nuts will give you a creamier, richer result. The soaking process is important – the enzymes are activated making it more nutritious and the soaked nuts will give you a smoother, creamier texture and a higher yield of milk.


COOK’S TIP This loaf is best made one day ahead of serving and will keep in an airtight container for four days.

GF A L M O N D, BA N A N A AN D C O C O N U T LOA F WIT H DA R K C H O C O L AT E [recipe pre vious page]

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L E M O N A N D M U LT I - S E E D WAFFLES WITH ROASTED APPLES

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ROASTED SUNFLOWER SEED A N D SA LT E D DAT E CARA MEL BUT T ER [recipe ne xt page]

COOK’S TIP To toast seeds, place them in a dry sauté pan and cook over a gentle heat until lightly golden and fragrant, stirring for even colouring.

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Lemon and Multi-seed Waffles with Roasted Apples These light and golden waffles are packed with goodness making them the perfect start to any day. Top with fresh berries or stone fruit when in season or use roasted rhubarb or pears during winter. 1½ cups oats ½ cup LSC

350ml buttermilk 3 large eggs, size 7

⅓ cup light muscovado sugar

finely grated zest 1 lemon

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon poppy seeds 1 teaspoon ground ginger ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon sea salt

To serve thick, plain yoghurt maple syrup Roasted Apples, recipe below

Put the oats in a food processor and blend until fine. Tip into a large bowl and combine with the LSC, sugar, baking powder, poppy seeds, ground ginger, cinnamon and salt. Whisk the buttermilk, eggs, lemon zest and vanilla together then stir into the dry ingredients. Cook the waffles according to waffle-maker instructions. Place on a cooling rack in a warm oven until all the mixture is used. Serve the warm waffles topped with yoghurt, maple syrup and Roasted Apples (recipe below), finishing with a dusting of icing sugar, if desired. Serves 4–6

PANTRY NOTE: LSC is a combination of ground linseed, sunflower seeds and chia seeds. I use Ceres Organics – available at some supermarkets, gourmet food stores and health shops.

Roasted Sunflower Seed and Salted Date Caramel Butter Nut butters abound but this scrumptious butter is made with a base of sunflower seeds. Add a spoonful on top of your breakfast porridge or yoghurt, in smoothies for extra richness, as a filling in croissants or cinnamon buns or spread on warm brioche or toasted grain bread. 20 pitted dried dates, roughly chopped 200 grams sunflower seeds, toasted 2 tablespoons maple syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ teaspoon sea salt pinch ground cinnamon 100ml coconut cream

Put the dates in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Soak for 10 minutes then drain well. Place the sunflower seeds in a food processor and process until very finely ground. Stop and scrape down the sides of the bowl, when needed. Add the dates, maple syrup, vanilla, salt and cinnamon and process for 1 minute. With the machine going, drizzle in the coconut cream and blend until thick and smooth. Store the butter in a sealed jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Makes about 2 cups

Roasted Apples More of a method than a recipe, I allow for half a large apple per serve. Preheat the oven to 160°C fan bake. Quarter each apple and remove the core. Cut each quarter into wedges and place all the apples on a lined baking tray. Drizzle with honey and roast until tender and lightly golden, turning once during cooking. If the honey starts to catch, add a splash of water. Serve warm.

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PROPS: Puffed Quinoa and Cashew Pork Schnitzel: Kina plate from Nest (nestdirect.com). Cutlery from Freedom Furniture (freedom.co.nz). Nut Milk: Relic bowl from The Shelter (theshelter.co.nz). Glass jug and porcelain spoon from Nest. Linen pillowslip from Tessuti (shop.tessuti.co.nz). Almond Banana and Coconut Loaf: Ann O’Sullivan bowl (annaosullivanpottery.co.nz). Lemon and Multi Seed Waffles: Cutlery from Freedom. Relic jug from The Shelter. Bowls from Ann O’Sullivan. Nut Butter: Plates from Ann O’Sullivan. Wonki Ware bowl from Indie Home Collective (indiehomecolective.co.nz). Linen pillowslip from Tessuti. All others from The Props Department (thepropsdepartment.co.nz). Fresh produce from Farro Fresh (farrofresh.co.nz). Meat from Neat Meat (neatmeat.com).


nutty goodness Ceres Organics Crunchy Peanut Butter is made from certified organic peanuts that are lightly roasted, then crushed into a rich creamy spread. A dash of natural sea salt is the finishing touch. A delicious base ingredient for these moreish flourless cookies. Crunchy Peanut Butter and Chocolate Cookie Sandwiches

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1 cup Ceres Organics Crunchy Peanut Butter 3 tablespoons raisins, finely chopped 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 large egg, size 7 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ cup coconut sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ cup roasted peanuts 100 grams 70% cocoa dark chocolate Preheat the oven to 150°C fan bake. Put the peanut butter, raisins, ginger, egg, baking powder, sugar and the vanilla in a large bowl and mix until well combined. Chop the peanuts and chocolate into smallish pieces and mix into the dough. If the pieces are too large the biscuits will fall apart. Roll tablespoons of the mixture into balls and then use your fingertips to flatten them into approximately 7cm circles, spacing them 2cm apart. Bake for approximately 9–10 minutes or until the tops are lightly golden. Cool on the tray for 10 minutes before carefully transferring to a cooling rack. The biscuits are very fragile when hot. Sandwich together with filling or enjoy on their own. Makes about 16 (depending on their size)

Whipped Peanut Butter Filling ½ cup Ceres Organics Crunchy Peanut Butter 45 grams butter, very soft but not melted  ½ teaspoon ground ginger pinch cayenne or chilli powder or more, for a spicy fillling (optional) ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup icing sugar, sifted 2–3 tablespoons milk Beat all the ingredients together until light and airy. Transfer the filling to a piping bag with a 1cm nozzle and pipe on to half of the biscuits or simply spread with a knife. Top with the remaining biscuits. 

Ceres Organics is the home of certified organic, pure ingredients and their peanut butters are just that – simple jars of nutty goodness. Certified organic peanuts are lightly roasted, then crushed into a creamy spread with a touch of natural sea salt. No chemicals or artificial additives used. Ceres Organics Peanut Butter is a perfect accompaniment to slather over your favourite snacks like crackers or celery, or blend into your smoothies and sauces. Try dolloping a spoonful into your morning oats for added protein and deliciousness. Available in smooth and crunchy in supermarkets and health food stores nationwide. Visit ceres.co.nz for more information and recipes.


Afternoon Ðelight Afternoon tea – a wonderful time to relax and give in to your sweeter sensibilities. Recipes — C LAIRE ALDOU S / Photography — M ANJA WACHS M UTH


RHU BARB AN D COCONUT SPICED ST R E U S E L CA K E [recipe ne xt page]


APPLE AND SPICE EC C LES CAKES

Rhubarb and Coconut Spiced Streusel Cake This is a lovely moist cake packed with pieces of tart rhubarb and topped with a spiced crumble. Cake 4 stalks red rhubarb, sliced 1cm thick pieces (2½ cups) ¼ cup caster sugar ¾ cup desiccated coconut ¾ cup caster sugar 1 teaspoon ground ginger finely grated zest and juice 1 large orange 3 large eggs, size 7 175 grams butter, very soft but not melted

2 teaspoons baking powder Spiced streusel topping ¼ cup plain flour ¼ cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon ground ginger ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 45 grams butter, diced To serve ½ cup thick plain yoghurt ½ cup sour cream icing sugar, for dusting

1¼ cups plain flour Grease a 22cm springform cake tin and line fully with baking paper. Preheat the oven to 160°C fan bake and place the rack one level lower than the centre. Spiced streusel topping: Combine all the ingredients in a bowl. Rub the butter in with your fingertips to make chunky, damp coarse crumbs. Chill until ready to cook. Cake: Combine the rhubarb and ¼ cup of sugar in a bowl and set aside for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Put the coconut, caster sugar, ginger and the orange zest and juice in a food process and pulse to blend. Add the eggs and process again. Add all the remaining ingredients except the rhubarb and pulse until combined. Don’t overmix or the cake will be heavy. Transfer the batter to a large bowl and fold in the rhubarb and all the sugary juices. Spoon into the tin and spread evenly, then scatter over the streusel topping. Bake for about 45–50 minutes until the cake is golden and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cover the top loosely with foil after 30 minutes to prevent it over-browning. Cool completely in the tin. To serve: Whisk the sour cream and yoghurt together. Dust the cake with icing sugar and serve with the cream mixture. Serves 8–10

LEMON CAKES WITH MASCARPONE AND LEMON CURD


Apple and Spice Eccles Cakes

Lemon Cakes with Mascarpone and Lemon Curd

I’ve combined the sticky dried fruit filling from a traditional eccles cake with diced apple to make these crispy, delicious treats.

Gorgeous moist cakes get filled with lemon curd and mascarpone then topped with a dusting of icing sugar. Simple and delicious.

3 sheets pre-rolled butter puff pastry (25cm x 25cm) plain flour 1 egg, beaten raw sugar, for sprinkling icing sugar, for dusting Filling 60 grams butter ⅓ cup brown sugar

1 tablespoon glace mixed peel, finely chopped ¾ teaspoon ground mixed spice ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ¾ cup currants 1 crisp apple, peeled, cored and chopped ½cm pieces (I used braeburn) 2 tablespoons cornflour

1 tablespoon marsala, brandy or whisky, optional

150 grams butter, at room temperature 1 cup caster sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 large eggs, size 7, lightly beaten 125 grams plain flour 100 grams ground almonds

150ml buttermilk finely grated zest 1 large lemon ½ cup flaked almonds To assemble 200 grams mascarpone ½ cup purchased lemon curd  (I used Anathoth) icing sugar, for dusting

1 teaspoon baking powder Grease a 12-hole, standard muffin tin and line the bases with baking paper.

Preheat the oven to 170°C fan bake.

Preheat the oven to 160°C fan bake.

Filling: Put the butter, sugar, marsala, mixed peel and both spices in a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Simmer for 2 minutes then stir in the currants. Cook for 1 minute then transfer to a large bowl.

Cream the butter, sugar and vanilla together until pale and creamy. Gradually beat in the eggs until very well mixed.

Stir in the diced apple. Sift over the cornflour and combine everything together. Cool completely. To assemble: Lay the pastry sheets out on a clean surface dusted with a little flour. Stamp out 4 x 12cm-diameter circles from each sheet of pastry. Place 2 teaspoons of filling in the centre of each round, then brush the edges with water. Bring the edges together, then gather up the pastry into a purse shape, squeezing to seal. Turn the eccles cake upside down so the smooth top is upwards and pat them into a smooth round. Flatten each round with a rolling pin until the fruit just starts to poke through, but doesn't break the pastry. Place on a lined baking tray. Brush with beaten egg then sprinkle with sugar. Make 3 small cuts with a pair of scissors or a small knife. Chill until the pastry is very firm. Bake for 18–20 minutes until golden and the pastry is crisp. Serve warm or at room temperature, dusted with icing sugar. Makes 12

Combine the flour, ground almonds and baking powder.  Add to the butter mixture, along with the buttermilk and lemon zest and gently mix everything together.  Divide evenly between the tins and smooth the tops. Scatter over the almonds.  Bake for 20–25 minutes or until firm to the touch and the cakes are pulling away from the sides of the tins. Leave in the tins to cool.  To assemble: Carefully cut the top off each cake then spread the bottom half with mascarpone and lemon curd. Replace the tops and dust with icing sugar. Makes 12

PROPS: Tablecloth used throughout from Bashford (bashford.co.nz). Rhubarb and Coconut Cake: Rachel Carley cake plate and stacked plates from Tessuti (shop. tessuti.co.nz). Bowl from Seletti (seletticonceptstore.com). Small cake plate from Molloys of Milford (molloysantiques.co.nz). Apple and Spice Eccles Cakes: Teacups, coffee pot, sugar pot and plates from Molloys of Milford. Lemon Cakes: Glass jar, cup and saucer, and small plate from Molloys of Milford. Nutella Melting Moments: Cake stand from Seletti. Morgan Haines cups and saucers and Rachel Carley plates from Tessuti. Teapot from Nest (nest-direct.com). Other side plates from Molloys of Milford. Cheese Scones: Wooden board and table runner from Bashford. All others from The Props Department (thepropsdepartment.co.nz). Fresh produce from Farro Fresh (farrofresh.co.nz).

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Nutella Melting Moments I use Nutella in the biscuit and in the light, creamy filling, which gives these treats a lovely nutty quality and makes them incredibly moreish. Biscuits ¾ cup Nutella 1 large egg, size 7 1 teaspoon instant espresso coffee granules, optional ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 40 grams butter, at room temperature 1 cup plain flour

1¼ teaspoons baking powder

Preheat the oven to 160°C fan bake. Biscuits: Beat the Nutella, egg, coffee, vanilla and butter until light and fluffy. Add the combined flour, baking powder and ground almonds and beat to a soft dough.

70 grams ground almonds

Roll teaspoons of the dough into balls and place on a lined baking tray – you should get 28–30 balls.

Filling 100 grams butter, at room temperature

Bake for about 12 minutes or until the tops have split and are firm to the touch. Transfer to a cooling rack.

1 tablespoon cocoa

Filling: Beat the butter, cocoa, Nutella and salt until light and creamy. Beat in the icing sugar.

½ cup Nutella pinch sea salt 1 cup icing sugar, plus extra

Transfer to a piping bag with a fluted nozzle. Pipe the filling on half the biscuits then sandwich with the remaining biscuits. Dust with icing sugar, to serve. Makes about 15 double biscuits


Cheddar, Smoked Paprika and Sage Scones

CHE D DA R , S M O K E D PA P R I K A A N D SAG E SCONES

These light-as-air scones are fragrant with smoked paprika, sharp cheese and sage. Best eaten warm from the oven, but if you happen to have leftovers they are great halved and toasted. 1½ cups plain flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ¾ teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon sea salt 50-gram piece cold butter

1 tablespoon finely chopped sage, plus 12 leaves for garnish 1 large egg, size 7 2 teaspoons wholegrain mustard ½–¾ cup buttermilk

100 grams aged cheddar cheese, grated Preheat the oven to 200°C fan bake. Combine the flour, baking powder, paprika and salt in a large bowl. Grate in the cold butter using the large holes on a box grater, then rub into the flour until it resembles fine crumbs. Coat the piece of butter in the flour as this makes it easier to hold when grating. Stir in half of the cheese and all of the chopped sage. Whisk the egg, mustard and ½ cup of the buttermilk together, then pour into the flour mixture and bring together with a fork to make a soft dough, adding more buttermilk if needed. Tip on to a lightly floured bench and then form dough into a rectangle about 2cm thick. Cut into 12 small triangles and place on a lined baking tray. Brush the tops with buttermilk then top with the remaining cheese. Brush the sage leaves with olive oil and place one on each scone. Bake for about 12 minutes until risen and golden. We served ours warm with smoked butter. Makes 12

AND TO DRINK... Drinks editor Yvonne Lorkin suggests tea matches for these baking treats 1

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to a decent slug of the Fine & Dandy Indian Spiced Chai Black Tea with every mouthful. With pure cardamom and cinnamon notes on the nose and palate and a deep, tangy finish, it’s perfect with these little spicy apple cakes. See fineanddandy.co.nz for stockists. Lemon and Almond Cakes with Marscapone and Lemon Curd Just when you thought things couldn’t get more lemony, I go and recommend you imbibe a dainty cup of Forage & Bloom KLG. With its combination of kawakawa, lemongrass and ginger, it’s a magic match for these moist, creamy-sweet cakes. Each spicy-scented sip refreshes and revives the palate perfectly. See forageandbloom.co.nz for stockists. 3

Rhubarb and Coconut Streusel Cake Sweeten up the tang of the rhubarb by sipping a hefty mug of Noble & Savage Strawberry Plum tea. You’ll be seduced by the sexy, fruity perfume, edged with vanilla and nougat, of this indulgent tisane. See nobleandsavage.com for stockists. 1

Spiced Apple and Eccles Cakes Accentuate the exotic spices in these gorgeous cakes by treating yourself 2

4 Nutella Melting Moments Provide yourself with distraction from eating too many of these bikkies with a cup of Forage + Bloom Roasted. With its base of dandelion root, it has a malty, nutty, earthy and bittersweet character that works perfectly with the creamy hazelnut flavours in these sweet treats. See forageandbloom.co.nz for stockists. 5 Cheddar, Sage and Smoked Paprika Scones If a warm, savoury scone isn’t enough to reinvigorate your afternoon, brew a pot of Noble & Savage Colonial Breakfast pronto. This blend injects a cleansing, malty mouthfeel, gently chewy bitterness and just the right amount of “cling” on the finish. See nobelandsavage.com for stockists.

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easy everyday Simple dinner solutions for any night of the week. Recipes — CL AIR E ALDOU S / Photography — JOSH GRIGGS

PEA , BACON AND MINT SOUP [recipe ne xt page]

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M APLE- GLAZED SALMON SKEWERS WITH FENNEL AND ORANGE SALAD [recipe next page]


Maple-glazed Salmon Skewers with Fennel and Orange Salad Juicy slices of orange and shaved fennel are a great match with salmon and a dollop of the apple dressing brings it all together beautifully. Salmon 2 tablespoons maple syrup 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard

Salad 2 large oranges 1 fennel bulb, thinly shaved, fronds reserved 1 small red onion, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons olive oil

2 good handfuls salad leaves

4 x 150 gram pieces salmon fillet, skin o

Apple and Yoghurt Dressing, recipe below

sea salt and ground pepper 12 x 20cm wooden skewers Whisk the maple syrup, lemon juice, mustard and the oil together in a medium bowl. Cut the salmon into bite-sized chunks and toss through the marinade. Thread on to skewers and season with salt and ground black pepper. Cook on a hot grill plate until golden and just cooked through. Salad: Peel the oranges with a knife, then halve and slice both thinly.Toss the slices with the remaining ingredients and divide between serving bowls. Top with the skewers and spoon over any remaining maple syrup marinade. Add dollops of the dressing and the fennel fronds. Serves 4

Apple and Yoghurt Dressing 1 cup thick plain yoghurt 1 crisp apple, grated

pinch chilli flakes sea salt and ground pepper

1 clove garlic, crushed Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and season.

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Pea, Bacon and Mint Soup Spring has arrived but the nights can still be a little chilly. This light but filling soup is the perfect mid-season dinner especially with a couple of crispy bacon sandwiches. 2 tablespoons olive oil 150 grams bacon, coarsely chopped 1 large leek, thinly sliced

500 grams frozen peas 4 cups chicken stock sea salt and ground pepper

1 medium agria potato, (about 250 grams) peeled and thinly sliced

To serve small handful fresh mint, chopped, plus extra for garnish

2 cloves garlic, crushed

sour cream

1 teaspoon ground cumin

wasabi paste

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and add the bacon, leek, potato, garlic and cumin. Cook for 10 minutes or until the potato is soft, stirring frequently (add a splash of water as the potato tends to catch on the base of the pan). Add the peas and the stock and bring to the boil. Season and simmer for 5 minutes. To serve: Stir in the mint and ladle into bowls. Swirl some wasabi paste through the sour cream then spoon over the soup along with extra mint. We served ours with crispy bacon sandwiches, for a more substantial meal. Serves 4


SPANISH BUTTER B EAN STEW W I TH MUSSELS [recipe ne xt page]

COOK’S TIP By cooking the mussels separately from the sauce then adding the strained cooking juices to the pan, it eliminates getting any grit or sand in the finished dish.


Spanish Butter Bean Stew with Mussels 20 mussels, scrubbed ½ cup white wine 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 carrot, grated 1 teaspoon fennel seed ¼–½ teaspoon chilli flakes 3 cloves garlic, crushed 2 teaspoons smoked paprika

2 tablespoons tomato paste 400-gram tin crushed Italian tomatoes 2 x 400-gram tins butter beans, drained and rinsed good handful parsley, chopped To serve slices sourdough bread, grilled and rubbed with a cut clove of garlic mayonnaise

Put the mussels and wine in a large saucepan. Cover and cook until the mussels have opened, transferring to a large bowl as they open. Remove one shell and discard. Strain the cooking juices through muslin into a bowl. Keep the mussels and juices separate. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan and add the onion, carrot, fennel seeds and chilli flakes with a pinch of salt. Cover and cook until tender, stirring occasionally. Stir in the garlic, paprika and tomato paste, cook for 2 minutes. Add the reserved mussel juice, tomatoes and the butter beans. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 8 minutes. To serve: Add the mussels and parsley to the bean mixture and stir. Serve with the grilled bread, spread with mayonnaise. Serves 4 ROASTED SWEET P OTATO ES , B L AC K B E A N S AN D S M AS H ED AVO CA DO

Roasted Sweet Potatoes, Black Beans and Smashed Avocado Tender sweet potatoes get topped with fragrant black beans, my favourite tahini dressing and a dollop of creamy avocado.

VENISON AND SP IN AC H PIZZA W IT H HARIS SA [recipe ne xt page]

4 long sweet potatoes, about 300 grams each (I used beauregard) olive oil Tahini dressing ⅓ cup tahini 2 tablespoons water 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon each sesame oil, soy sauce and lemon juice 1 teaspoon maple syrup

Black beans 2 tablespoons olive oil 400-gram tin black beans, drained and rinsed 1 teaspoon cumin seed ½ teaspoon smoked paprika ¼ teaspoon chilli flakes 1 tablespoon sesame seeds To serve 1–2 avocados, mashed, sour cream and salad leaves

Preheat the oven to 180°C fan bake. Cut a thin layer of flesh and skin off the top of each sweet potato and trim the bottoms so they sit flat. Brush all over with oil and season. Place cut side up on a lined baking tray and roast until tender, about 30–40 minutes depending on their size. Dressing: Whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl and season. Black beans: Heat the oil in a sauté pan and add all the ingredients. Toss over a medium heat until lightly golden and fragrant. To serve: Place the sweet potatoes on serving plates and score the flesh with a knife. Drizzle with a little dressing then top with the black beans. Add a spoonful of avocado and sour cream along with the salad leaves. Serve any remaining dressing separately. Serves 4


MOROCCAN BEEF WITH HU M M U S AND OL IV ES [recipe ne xt page]


Venison and Spinach Pizza with Harissa Venison is now available at most supermarkets and makes a great topping for these quick pizzas. Omit the harissa if desired and serve it alongside for everyone to help themselves. 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, grated 1 teaspoon each cumin and fennel seeds 500 grams venison mince 2 cloves garlic, crushed ½ teaspoon each ground cinnamon and allspice ½–1 teaspoon harissa, plus extra to serve, optional ¾ cup beef stock

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce sea salt and black pepper 2 x 26cm pre-prepared pizza bases

Moroccan Beef with Hummus and Olives Spiced, tender and juicy slices of beef are paired with crispy chickpeas and a fresh parsley salad for a quick and delicious mid-week meal the whole family will enjoy. 500-gram piece sirloin steak olive oil 1 tablespoon Moroccan spice mix

2 tablespoons tomato paste

400-gram tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed

2 tablespoons sour cream

8 medium vine tomatoes

120 gram bag baby spinach or kale leaves ½ cup sour cream 1½ cups grated mozzarella 2 tomatoes, diced

Preheat oven to 200°C fan bake. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan and add onion, carrot, cumin and fennel seeds. Season with salt, cover and cook until tender. Increase the heat to high and cook the mince, garlic, cinnamon, allspice and harissa, if using, for 5 minutes, breaking the meat up with a wooden spoon so there are no large pieces. Add the stock and Worcestershire sauce and continue to cook over a high heat until the liquid has evaporated, stirring often. Season to taste. Place the pizza bases on a lined baking tray and spread with the tomato paste and sour cream. Top with the venison then a handful of spinach, spoonfuls of sour cream and the mozzarella. Drizzle with olive oil and bake for 10 minutes until the pizza base is crisp and the top is lightly golden. Top with the remaining leaves and diced tomato. Serve with extra harissa. Serves 4–6

sea salt and ground pepper To finish 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced

2 teaspoons lemon juice 2 teaspoons olive oil ½ cup packed, picked parsley sprigs 1 cup pitted black olives 200 grams storebought hummus warm flatbreads and lemon wedges, to serve

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Rub the beef with oil and season with salt and pepper. Heat a sauté pan until hot then sear the beef on all sides. Place on one side of a large, shallow roasting dish and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the spice mix, turning to coat. Add the chickpeas to the roasting dish, drizzle over 2 tablespoons of oil and the remaining spice mix, and stir together. Roast for 20–25 minutes for medium rare, adding the tomatoes for the last 10 minutes of cooking. Remove from the oven, cover and rest for 10 minutes. To finish: Combine the onion and lemon juice and leave for 5 minutes. Pour off any liquid and add the oil, parsley and olives and season with pepper. Spread the hummus on a large serving platter. Slice the beef and arrange over the hummus. Add the tomatoes, chickpeas and the red onion and black olive salad. Serve with warm flatbreads and lemon wedges. Serves 4

PANTRY NOTE: Moroccan spice mix is available in the baking section at supermarkets.

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Prawn Ravioli with Lemon and Caper Sauce Using wonton wrappers makes these a quick option for weekday meals. The prawn filling is light and tasty and the ravioli gets finished with a delicious brown butter, lemon and caper sauce. Prawn filling 400 grams shelled, raw prawns

Lemon and caper sauce 90 grams butter

1 egg white

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons cream

2 tablespoons capers

finely grated zest 1 lemon

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 teaspoons dried tarragon

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

sea salt and ground pepper

lemon wedges, to serve

32 wonton wrappers Sauce: Place the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat and cook until it turns a light golden brown and smells nutty, swirling the pan for even cooking. Add the lemon juice, capers and garlic and swirl together. Take o the heat, season with salt and pepper then set aside.

PRAWN RAVIOLI WITH LEM ON AND CAPER SAUCE

Filling: Set half the prawns aside. Roughly chop the remaining half and place in a food processor with the egg white, cream, lemon zest and tarragon and season. Pulse until combined and it looks thick and almost smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Finely chop the remaining prawns and stir into the mixture. Lay 16 wonton wrappers on the workbench. Place 2 teaspoons of the prawn mixture in the centre of each wrapper. Working with one at a time, brush the edges of the wrapper with water, then top with a second wrapper, pressing the edges to seal tightly and pushing out all the air. Place slightly apart on a lightly floured tray as each is made. Cook the ravioli in batches, in a large saucepan of boiling salted water for 2–3 minutes after they rise to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and divide between warm serving plates. Rewarm the butter sauce and stir in the parsley. Spoon the sauce over the ravioli and serve with lemon wedges. Serves 4

PANTRY NOTE: Most packets of wonton wrappers contain at least 36 wrappers.

CHERRY AND ALM OND IMPOSSIBLE PIE


AND TO DRINK... Wine editor Yvonne Lorkin suggests drinks matches for these dishes

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Cherry and Almond Impossible Pie I love the versatility of this delicious pudding – use fresh cherries when in season but it also works beautifully with any type of berry, fresh or frozen, as well as stone fruits, such as peaches and nectarines. ½ cup plain flour ¾ cup ground almonds 1 cup caster sugar 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 4 large eggs, size 7 2 tablespoons golden syrup

2 teaspoons vanilla extract 125 grams butter, melted 2 cups milk 680-gram jar morello cherries, drained (I used Delmaine) ⅓ cup sliced almonds

Grease a deep, 30cm pie dish. Preheat the oven to 160°C fan bake. Combine the flour, ground almonds, sugar and nutmeg in a large bowl. Whisk the eggs, golden syrup, vanilla, butter and milk together and stir into the flour mixture until smooth. The batter will be thin. Add the cherries, then pour into the pie dish, moving the cherries so they are evenly distributed. Scatter over the sliced almonds and bake for about 45 minutes or until set. It will puff up dramatically during cooking then deflate when removed from the oven. Serve warm with softly whipped cream or vanilla ice cream. Serves 8

PROPS: Table from Citta used throughout. Pea and Bacon Soup: Marli plate, Eli spoon and Eli bowl from Country Road (countryroad.com.au). Ay Illuminate carafe and glasses from Tessuti (shop.tessuti.co.nz). Cork coaster from Everyday Needs (everyday-needs.com). Mat from The Props Department (the propsdepartment. co.nz). Maple-glazed Salmon: Plate from Freedom Furniture (freedomfurniture. co.nz). Bowl and cutlery from the Props Department. Spanish Stew with Mussels: Board from Tessuti. Robert Gordon bowl and plate from Republic (republichome. com). Small bowl and spoon from Indie Home Collective (indiehomecollective.com). All others from The Props Department. Roasted Sweet Potatoes: Plate and cutlery from The Props Department. Ay Illuminate glasses from Tessuti. Jug from Country Road. Moroccan Beef: Platter and dinner plates from Nest (nest-direct.com). Oval plate from Country Road. Prawn Ravioli: Plate and napkin from Nest. Fork from The Props Department. Cherry and Almond Pie: La Chumba baking dish from French Country (frenchcountry.co.nz). Bowl from Nest. Bowls from Country Road. Spoon from The Props Department. Fresh produce from Farro Fresh (farrofresh.co.nz). Meat from Neat Meat (neatmeat.com).

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1 Pea, Bacon and Mint Soup Complement the salty tang of the bacon in this lifted, lightly herbed soup, with the subtle nashi, apple and pear flavours in the delightful Blackenbrook Nelson Pinot Gris 2016 ($24.50). It’s brand new, crisp, light and juicy enough to be the perfect match for this soup. Buy from blackenbrook.co.nz. 2 Maple-glazed Salmon Skewers with Fennel and Orange Salad Chardonnay is always going to be my first choice for salmon, but it’s really important, due to the sweet richness of the maple glaze and the buttery texture of the salmon, that you choose a zesty, citrusforward, tangy wine. That’s why the organic, biodynamically certified Richmond Plains Nelson Chardonnay 2015 ($25) is perfect here. Buy from organicwines.co.nz. 3 Spanish Butter Bean Stew with Mussels I don’t know why the lemon pith, summer flowers, white peach and delicate, slightly salty mineral notes in the Hihi Gisborne Albarino 2015 ($24) wine work so well with this stew – but they just do. Albarino is the signature white grape of Spain – it’s easy to see why. Buy from hihi.co.nz. 4 Venison and Harissa Pizza Venison? Harissa? Then the Bisquertt Riserva Petirrojo Carménère 2014 ($18) is a no-brainer. Chilean’s had no idea why much of their merlot tasted so different to the rest until a canny ampelographer (Google it) came along and said “that’s because it’s carménère” – previously one of

the six varieties permitted in red Bordeaux. This Colchaguagrown example oozes black berryfruit, tobacco-box oak, dried herb and smoky, earthy characters. Buy from moorewilsons.co.nz. Moroccan Beef with Hummus and Olives Moroccan spices require a red that’s loaded with fruit, not one that’s big and chewy and spicy. So make a beeline to the Paper Road Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2014 ($20). Grown and made in Opaki, just north of Masterton, it boasts a hit of sweet rosehip tea, ripe cherry and smooth, slippery raspberry notes on the finish. Buy from paperroad.co.nz. 5

6 Prawn Ravioli with Lemon and Caper Sauce The piquancy of the lemon and caper sauce cries out for a wine that’s creamy, soothing, yet has freshness and vibrancy at the same time. That’s where the McManis River Junction Chardonnay 2014 ($25) from California ticks some serious boxes. A gentle melange of butterscotch, nougat and roast peach make this a magic match with this delicate prawn dish. Buy from winedirect.co.nz.

Cherry and Almond Impossible Pie It’s a very rare thing for a wine to taste almost identical to the food it’s matched with, but in the case of the Johner Estate Noble Pinot Noir 375ml ($22) from the Wairarapa, that’s exactly what you get. Sweet cherry, toasty, nutty characters, vanilla and red fruits all ooze from the glass. Delicious. Buy from johnerestate.co.nz. 7


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TREAT YOURSELF WELL

Brand new Covet nut milks use only what is needed to taste amazing, and nothing else. Packed with nuts and 100 per cent natural, they’re free from refined sugar, artificial sweeteners and flavours, preservatives, dairy, cholesterol and carrageenan. Choose Covet’s Unsweetened Almond Milk as a delicious alternative to plain dairy milk (perfect in smoothies and cereal), or for a special little treat try Spiced Vanilla Almond Milk or Chocolate Macadamia Milk. Waiting for you in the chiller now at select supermarkets and speciality stores. RRP $3.99 & $6.99. See enjoycovet.com.

What’s for tea? At recipes.co.nz you’ll find meal inspiration for any occasion the whole family will love. Whether it’s a quick mid-week meal or an impressive roast with all the trimmings, you’ll find it here. There are also plenty of tips on meat cuts, cooking times and nutrition. Happy cooking! IN A SPIN Kenwood has launched its first electric spiralizer (FGP204WG). From courgettes and cucumbers to pears and potatoes, the Kenwood Spiralizer can turn a wide range of vegetables, and even hard fruits, into a variety of spirals, noodles and ribbons. It’s the perfect tool for clean, delicious, creative cooking. With the choice of the pappardelle cutting cone to create thick ribbons, the linguine to create thin vegetable-style noodles, and the tagliatelle to create crunchy vegetable spirals, the Kenwood Spiralizer helps you make a range of tasty recipes. Mess-free and quick to use and clean, the Kenwood Spiralizer offers a deliciously healthy, gluten-free alternative to noodles and pasta for the whole family to enjoy.

Kitchen inspiration Adventurous cooks need the right tools to express their culinary creativity. Fisher & Paykel’s range of combination cooktops give you the flexibility to create your perfect cooking solution by combining gas and induction side by side, providing the best of both worlds. The cooktops of varying widths can be mixed and matched in different configurations and either fitted side by side with a joining strip or spaced out separately to suit your kitchen design, household requirements and cooking style. For more information, visit fisherpaykel.com.

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Pretty in pink The new vintage release of The Ned Pinot Rosé 2016 is out now. In its second year of release this wonderful wine is once again taking rosé drinkers worldwide by storm. Deliciously bright, fresh and full of fruit with an enticing dry finish – this wine is a must for any gathering this summer. Available through Glengarry’s, Liquor King, Liquorland and your closest supermarket, there is no excuse not to get some and start riding the rosé wave.

BUTTER UP

Ceres Organics is the home of certified organic, pure ingredients. So that is just what their nut butters are made with. For their Cacao Almond Crush, they’ve combined the wholesome organic deliciousness of “superfoods” cacao, almond and coconut, simply crushed and blended into a rich, creamy spread. Slather it over your favourite snack, mix into smoothies, or we bet you’ll love devouring it straight from the jar. Visit ceres.co.nz for more information and recipes.

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D ISH

FLOWER POWER

A dried floral arrangement from Mark Antonia Ltd is one of a kind – every arrangement is bespoke and made entirely by Antonia’s hands. Starting with the bare twigs, every berry, every flower and leaf is hand-glued with delicacy, which makes these arrangements so unique. markantonia.com


MILK AS IT USED TO BE

Everything’s better with bacon 362 Grillhouse Bacon Jam is a sweet and smoky slowcooked savoury jam. Add to a platter with specialty cheeses, your favourite grilled cheese sandwich, or a great burger. Made by hand with real bacon, coffee, bourbon, smoked paprika and spices, this jam is the perfect complement to any food adventure. 362 Grillhouse is an innovative range of gastro pub condiments with bold flavours while maintaining that casual pub-like taste. Available from specialty stores throughout New Zealand. wildcountry. co.nz

The team at Lewis Road Creamery have discovered the less you do to milk, the better it tastes. Hence, you’ll find no permeates in their milks so you can enjoy the freshest and creamiest milk available. Permeate is a by-product of milk processing used to water down milk and reduce cost. Lewis Road Creamery Fresh Premium Milk has no permeate added to deliver the delicious taste of milk the way it used to be. It’s as close as you can get to the “farm gate” and the difference is remarkable. You might just find yourself drinking milk by the glass again.

THE EASY WAY TO CREATE AN OUTDOOR ROOM

Have you been yearning for an outdoor room, so you can enjoy fresh air in almost any weather? With Luxaflex EVO screens you can apply indoor comfort to outdoor areas at the push of a button. Touch the remote and a motor lowers screens (mesh, canvas, clear or acrylic) into position to create a fully enclosed room. There are no gaps, because the perfectly taut screens are secured in a channel fixed to your balcony. Find EVO stockists at luxaflex.co.nz.

NEW VACUUM-SEALING DRAWERS FROM MIELE

Miele brings sous vide cooking to the home cook with the introduction of the brand’s first built-in vacuum-sealing drawers, complemented by a Miele steam oven. In combination, these two Miele appliances give access to an even greater range of cooking applications. Miele’s Vacuum-Sealing Drawers, the likes of which were often regarded as the domain of commercial kitchens, most effectively vacuum-pack food ready for the sous vide process in a Miele steam oven. By optimising food storage and extending its freshness by up to three to five times, Miele vacuum-sealing will ensure there is always something delicious on-hand. It’s simply a matter of transferring to a Miele steam or steam combination oven where the food can be sous vide at low, constant temperatures. Choose from the Miele EVS 6114 in CleanSteel or the Miele EVS 6214 available in CleanSteel, Obsidian Black, Brilliant White and Mink. $4199. 0800 4 MIELE (0800 464 353), miele.co.nz

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TR AVE L

P O RT U G A L

PLATE-HOPPING

in Portugal From traditional dishes that make the most of a plentiful supply of fish to the flaky delights of a classic Portuguese tart, Catherine McGregor discovers the vibrant flavours of Portugal. Words by — CATHERINE M CGREGOR

122 D I S H


OPPOSITE PAGE: Fish and nautical designs are found throughout Portugal. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Salt cod; Riberia, the old town of Porto; graffiti art adds colour in Lisbon; beautifully presented tins of fish make lovely mementos.

et me tell you about the Portuguese and fish. In this nation, hitched along Europe’s western edge, fish are everywhere. They’re underfoot, incorporated into the design of Portugal’s distinctive mosiac pavements. They’re above your head, painted on to glazed azulejos tiles and coiled around stone columns in gloomy Gothic cathedrals. They’re celebrated in small-town museums, with popular folk songs and at festivals like Lisbon’s Feast of St Anthony, an annual bacchanal of drinking, dancing… and sardine eating. The festival officially memorialises the local-born saint who, legend has it, preached the gospel to shoals of awe-struck fish. But mostly, it’s an excuse to eat. Alfama, the city’s oldest neighbourhood, is transformed into an all-night barbecue block party, the narrow streets lined with grills cranking out seemingly endless servings of charred sardines, slid on to paper plates or squished between two halves of a soft bread roll. We ate at makeshift tables under balconies draped with coloured lights and streamers, the air thick with charcoal smoke and laughter. The people of Portugal are the world’s third-most voracious consumers of fish. They get through around 57 kilograms a year per capita, well

Photography: Shutterstock/Getty Images.

L

over twice the amount New Zealanders typically eat, and find all sorts of creative ways to serve it, like caldeirada, a bouillabaisse-like muddle of seafood and filleted fish, or amêijoas na cataplana, a clam and chorizo (in Portuguese, chouriço) stew. But by far the most common way to eat fish in Portugal is also the simplest: a whole fish, gutted, slashed and chargrilled until its skin starts to curl and flake. It arrives at your table doused in olive oil and with half a lemon to squeeze over; on the side there’ll almost certainly be a grandmaapproved trio of boiled potatoes, boiled carrots and a cursory lettuce salad. The presentation may be unimaginative, but boy is it delicious, the fish ocean-fresh and smoky from the grill, the boiled vegetables offering a perfectly starchy foil. Even the most basic restaurant menu offers four or five choices of fish, including the ubiquitous grilled sardines. These either get the boiled potato and carrot treatment, or are served on a slice or two of cornbread to soak up the fishy, lemony juices. Even more than the sardine, the fish that defines Portugal is bacalhau, or salt cod. In every supermarket there are stacks of the kite-shaped fillets, stiff as cardboard and looking – at least to these eyes – just as appetising. The Portuguese evidentally disagree: a study found most eat

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It’s the rare visitor who finds bacalhau anything more than an interesting acquired taste, but you can’t come to Portugal and not give a couple of dishes a try.

FROM TOP: A street food stall in Lisbon preparing freshly caught sardines; A Ginjinha Registada, Lisbon’s oldest specialty store selling ginjinha, a popular liquor made from cherries.

124 D I S H

bacalhau in some form at least once a week. They say there are 365 ways to prepare it, one for every day of the year. It’s the rare visitor who finds bacalhau anything more than an interesting acquired taste, but you can’t come to Portugal and not give a couple of dishes a try. My advice: start with bolinhos de bacalhau, the cod croquettes popular as bar snacks and appetisers. Dining at A Tendinha, an historic restaurant famous as a hangout for Lisbon’s fado music community, I followed my bolinhos with bacalhau à brás, shredded cod mixed with potato matchsticks and scrambled egg. A little more challenging, but not too bad with a glass of cold Sagres beer on the side. As a seafaring country with some of the best fresh seafood in Europe, it’s odd that Portugal has such a thing for preserving fish. As well as dried cod, the Portuguese are crazy for tinned fish of every description: tiny sardines, high-end tuna belly, Atlantic mackerel, plus anchovies, octopus, mussels, cockles and squid. For more than a hundred years Portugal was a world leader in canned fish; in the 1980s this country of 10 million people boasted an astonishing 153 canning factories. But by the end of that decade the industry was in a nosedive as younger generations turned their noses up at this sometimes-stinky food. Now the hip kids are rediscovering this unique part of local culinary culture. At Sol e Pesca, a former fishing tackle shop in Lisbon’s bohemian Cais do Sodré quarter, you pick a

tin from the extensive menu, or simply choose one from the shelves. It arrives at the table accompanied by cornbread, salad and possibly a carafe of vinho verde, the cheap and cheerful local wine. A quick, tasty and healthy snack, ideal for pre-dinner or late-night drinking. The tins’ gorgeous retro packaging make for excellent souvenirs, too. Shopping at canned fish emporium Conserveira De Lisboa, where saleswomen ring up purchases on a vintage cash register and tie your packages with brown paper and string, is like stepping back in time to 1930s Portugal. Also in Lisbon, A Vida Portuguesa is a treasure trove of Portuguese-produced products, including a kaleidoscopic display of fish tins, local olive oils, condiments, confectionery and more. It may not seem like it at first glance, but there’s a lot more to Portuguese food than fish, fish and more fish. In Porto, my culinary to-do list included seeking out a restaurant serving tripas à moda do Porto; not for nothing are Porto locals known as tripeiros, “tripe eaters”. But I’ll be honest: I never even came close. In the heat of summer, I realised I’d rather be on the deck at Graham’s – one of the many historic port houses still based here – eating acorn-fed Iberian ham (porco preto, what the Spanish call pata negra), sipping a glass of bone-dry white port, and drinking in the spectacular view of the Duoro River and the city beyond. Porto is also the home of the gut-busting francesinha (“little Frenchie”), a modified croque monsieur sandwich with layered steak,


THIS PAGE: The

interior and exterior of the Pasteis de Belem – a famous pastry shop renowned for its rich custard tarts, known as pastel de nata – or Portuguese Tarts; (bottom right) the Time Out Mercado da Ribeira.

ham and sausage that’s become a hugely popular fast food meal. Covered in cheese, smothered in a thick tomato and beer sauce, and accompanied by french fries, francesinha is the sort of dish that makes your arteries harden just thinking about it. For something lighter – and glory be, with green vegetables – seek out caldo verde, the popular soup made from potato puree, chiffoned collard greens and hunks of chouriço. I had a bowl at Time Out Mercado da Ribeira, a giant gourmet food hall near the banks of the river Tagus in Lisbon. It’s a great place to try both classic and creatively reimagined Portuguese foods in a casual setting, as well as drinks like ginjinha, a cherry liquor which is one of Lisbon’s favourite afterwork tipples. Savoury cuisine in Portugal is (mostly) delicious, and always surprisingly affordable, but my lasting food memory of the country is sweet. Portugal is secretly one of Europe’s best producers of sugary treats; wander into any pastry shop and you’ll find glass counters groaning with pastries like pão de Deus, a sweet bread filled with coconut paste, or malasadas, doughnut-like pastries dipped in sugar. Easily the most famous of Portugal’s pastries is the rich custard tart known as pastel de nata. If you’re in Lisbon, you have to make a pilgrimage to the upmarket suburb of Belém, where these flaky morsels were first made by nuns from the Jerónimos Monastery more than 200 years ago. The bakery that makes pastéis de Belém (as they’re called in Belém) is today one

of Lisbon’s most popular tourist destinations. The bakery’s enormous output – an average of 20,000 pastéis per day, rising to 40,000 in the height of summer – means the tarts are served straight from the oven, the custard still featherlight, warm and wobbly. You can eat them at the in-house cafe, or take them to go, packed into blue and white boxes and placed carefully into smart paper carrier bags. It’s a nice touch, but all that fancy packaging seems somewhat superflous. If your pastéis de Belém make it back to your hotel – heck, if they make it to the next street corner – you’ve a lot more willpower than me.

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KITCHEN NOTES NOTES FOR COOKS

OVEN TEMPERATURES

USEFUL TECHNIQUES

To ensure successful results in cooking, we recommend you invest in accurate measuring tools – measuring cups and spoons and a measuring jug are essential and electronic scales are particularly useful as they weigh accurately in both imperial and metric.

225° Fahrenheit = 110° Celsius = cool oven 300° Fahrenheit = 150° Celsius = very low oven 350° Fahrenheit = 180° Celsius = moderate oven 400° Fahrenheit = 200° Celsius = hot oven 450° Fahrenheit = 230° Celsius = very hot oven

Always follow one set of measures in a recipe. Do not mix them up.

Bake blind: Line a prepared pastry case with baking paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. The beans support the pastry as it cooks. Bake in a preheated 190°C – 200°C oven for up to 20 minutes before removing the paper and weights. The shell should now have taken form. Return to the oven for the time specified in the recipe.

VOLUME

Dish uses: A fan-forced oven unless otherwise specified

1 level tablespoon = 15ml

Large eggs (No.7) Level spoons and cup measurements Liquids are always measured in a jug and dry ingredients in measuring cups. NB: One tablespoon is 15ml (the Australian tablespoon is 20ml)

1 level teaspoon = 5ml 1 oz/fl oz = 28.35 grams/ml 1 pound = 450 grams 1 cup liquid = 250ml 1 pint = 600ml

Remove pin bones from salmon: Fillets almost always contain small pin bones. To remove them, first run your finger down the centre of the fillet, pushing down gently so the bones pop out slightly as they are located. Using a pair of tweezers or needle-nosed pliers, pull out each bone carefully, with the grain to avoid tearing the flesh.

1 litre = 1000ml WEIGHT

USEFUL INGREDIENT EQUIVALENTS

10 grams = ¼oz

Breadcrumbs 1 cup fresh = 50 grams 1 cup dried = 115 grams

15 grams = ½oz

Butter 1 (American) stick = 100 grams 1 cup = 225 grams 2 tablespoons = 30 grams

1 kilogram = 2¼ pounds

Cheese 1 cup grated tasty = 115 grams 1 cup parmesan = 150 grams

2.5cm = 1 inch

Egg whites Large (No. 7) egg white = 30 grams Flour 1 level measuring cup = 150 grams

25 grams = 1oz (actual 28.35 grams) 450 grams = 1 pound

LENGTH

12cm = 4½ inches 20cm = 8 inches 24cm = 9½ inches 30cm = 12 inches FOOD NAME EQUIVALENTS

We all use cookbooks and magazines from around the world. These are some of the more common ingredients which have differing names.

1 rounded tablespoon granulated/4–5 leaves (gold grade) will set 500ml/2 cups liquid to a firm jelly.

baking paper

Honey, Golden Syrup 1 cup = 350 grams Onions 1 × 115 gram onion = 1 cup chopped Rice 1 cup uncooked rice = 200 grams 1 cup cooked = 165 grams Sugar 1 cup caster and granulated = 225 grams 1 cup brown sugar = 200 grams 1 cup icing sugar = 125 grams Spinach 650 grams spinach leaves = ¾ cup purée Yeast 2 tablespoons fresh (compressed) = 1 tablespoon dried (granulated)

126 D I S H

beetroot cannellini beans capsicum celeriac coriander cream eggplant fillet (as in meat) golden syrup hapuku icing sugar plain flour prawn rocket scallopini spring onions zucchini

Roast capsicums: Place the capsicum on a tray and roast in a pre-heated 200°C oven until tender but not collapsing. When cool, peel and remove the seeds. Roast nuts: spread the nuts out in a single layer on a shallow baking pan and place in a preheated 180°C oven. Shake the pan every few minutes until the nuts are golden. Watch carefully as the nuts can become too brown very quickly. Remove and tip into another dish to cool.

1cm = ½ inch

Gelatine 3 teaspoons granulated/3 leaves (gold grade) will set 500ml/2 cups liquid to a light jelly.

Leaf gelatine comes in varying grades. It is wise to check the setting properties of the leaf gelatine you buy before use.

Julienne: This term refers to food, often vegetables, that are sliced into thin matchsticks. This is most easily done using a mandolin but can also be done by hand. First cut into 3mm (1/8-inch) thick slices. Stack the slices and cut into 3mm (1/8-inch) thick strips. Cut into desired length.

parchment paper/ silicone paper beets white kidney bean bell pepper/ sweet pepper celery root cilantro heavy cream aubergine tenderloin dark corn syrup groper confectioners sugar standard/pure flour jumbo shrimp rocquette/arugula pattypan squash green onions courgettes

Sterilise bottles and jars: Put jars or bottles and their lids through a hot cycle of the dishwasher Alternatively, wash in hot soapy water and rinse well. Place them on an oven tray in a cold oven. Turn the heat to 120°C and leave for 30 minutes. Toast and grind seeds and spices: Heat a small dry pan over a medium heat. Add the spice and toss until fragrant and just starting to darken in colour. Be very careful not to burn as this will make them bitter. Toast one spice at a time rather than combining, as each spice will take a different time to toast. Tip out onto a plate and cool. Grind in a mortar and pestle or a small coffee grinder, reserved for the purpose.


RECIPE INDEX SALADS

Breakfast Salad with Haloumi and Black Quinoa

RICE AND GRAINS

Citrus and Cinnamon Risotto 69

CHEESE AND DAIRY

Breakfast Salad with Haloumi and Black Quinoa Cheddar, Smoked Paprika and Sage Scone

Mixed Mushroom and Miso Risotto 69 109 46

Quinoa Risotto, Roasted Pumpkin and Crispy Bacon

Mediterranean Meatballs with Olives, Feta and Mint

94

SWEET AND FRUIT

Middle Eastern Beans with Baked Eggs

71

Almond, Banana and Coconut Loaf with Dark Chocolate

Jambalaya Chicken and Pork Balls with Spicy Sauce and Prawns

92

76

Puffed Quinoa and Cashew Nut Pork Schnitzel with Parsnip and Tahini Mash 97

Feta Loukoumades with Honey

FISH AND SEAFOOD

78

Farro Risotto, Roasted Tomatoes, Broad Beans and Mozzarella 75

76

97

Apple and Spice Eccles Cake

107

Cherry and Almond Impossible Pie

118

Maple-glazed Salmon Skewers with Fennel and Orange Salad 112

Citrus and Cinnamon Risotto

78

Coconut Custard

69

Prawn Ravioli with Lemon and Caper Sauce

46

117

Feta Loukoumades with Honey

Salmon Balls with Avocado and Lemon Dill Mayo

94

Lemon Cakes with Mascarpone and Lemon Curd

Spanish Butter Bean Stew with Mussels

114

107

Lemon and Multi-seed Waffles with Honey Roasted Apples, Yoghurt and Maple Syrup

102

Honey Roasted Apples

102

94

Nutella Melting Moments

108

Moroccan Beef with Hummus and Olives

116

Pea, Bacon and Mint Soup

112

Pear and Vanilla Baked Oatmeal with Coconut Custard 69

MEAT

Mediterranean Meatballs with Olives, Feta and Mint

Puffed Quinoa and Cashew Nut Pork Schnitzel with Parsnip and Tahini Mash 97

Raspberry Cake with Rose Petals

46

Rhubarb and Coconut Spiced Streusel Cake

106 102

Quinoa Risotto, Roasted Pumpkin and Crispy Bacon

76

Roasted Sunflower Seed and Salted Date Caramel Butter

Venison and Spinach Pizza with Harissa

116

Scrumptious Crumpets Three Citrus Slice

Drizzle to impress

81 128

POULTRY

Walnut-Filled Biscuits Baked Chicken Pasta with Capers, Lemon and Spinach

66

Chicken, Cashew and Coconut Soup with Pickled Zucchini

63

Chicken, Lemongrass and Coriander Shu Mai

64

Jambalaya Chicken and Pork Balls with Spicy Sauce and Prawns

92

SOUPS

Chicken, Cashew and Coconut Soup

63

Pea, Bacon and Mint Soup

112

SAUCES AND DRESSINGS

One-pan Cumin Chicken with Orange Couscous, Dates and Almonds 64 Puy Lentil Chicken Salad with Apple and Hazelnuts

46

63

Apple and Yoghurt Dressing

112

Coconut Custard

69

Soy and Lime Dipping Sauce

64

Tahini Dressing

114

DRINKS

VEGETABLES

Berry Bubbles

38

Cauliflower and Chickpea Vege Balls with Parsley and Coriander Pesto 92

Frozen Chai Russian

39

KLG Mule

41

Cauliflower Risotto with Rocket, Hazelnuts and Haloumi

Made with Love

40

75

Nut Milk

98

Chilli and Fennel Pickle

83

Dill Pickles

84

OTHER

Mixed Mushroom and Miso Risotto

76

Coconut Custard

69

Pea, Bacon and Mint Soup

112

Nut Milk

98

Pickled Mixed Mushrooms

85

Pickled Zucchini

63

Roasted Sunflower Seed and Salted Date Caramel Butter

Carrot, Turmeric and Ginger Pickle

86

Quinoa Risotto, Roasted Pumpkin and Crispy Bacon

76

Parsnip and Tahini Mash

97

Roasted Sweet Potatoes, Black Beans and Smashed Avocado

114

Sweet and Sour Beetroot Pickle

85

102

RECIPE INDEX ONLINE

Get the full recipe indexes from Dish 1–63 or use the searchable recipe database online at dish.co.nz

www.telegraphhill.co.nz


TO FI NI S H...

Three Citrus Slice A crisp, buttery shortbread base with a sweet/tart topping of lemon, orange and lime – a delicious makeover of the classic lemon slice. Recipe — C LAIR E ALD O US / Photography — M ANJA WACH S M UTH

COOK’S TIP If using a thick-skinned lemon and orange, peel the fruit, then using a sharp knife, carefully cut off the white pith, leaving only a thin layer on the skin. Too much white pith will make the slice taste bitter.

Crust 1 cup plain flour pinch salt ½ teaspoon grated nutmeg ¼ cup caster sugar 4 tablespoons melted butter Filling 1 large thin-skinned lemon ½ small thin-skinned orange 1¼ cups caster sugar 2 tablespoons cornflour 4 large eggs, size 7 4 tablespoons melted butter, cooled finely grated zest and juice 1 large lime icing sugar, for dusting

128 D I S H

Grease and fully line a 20cm-square metal cake tin with baking paper. Preheat oven to 160°C (fan bake). Crust: Combine the dry ingredients in a bowl then stir in the butter to make a soft dough. Tip into the tin and spread to a firm, even layer. Bake for 18–20 minutes until a good golden colour. Reduce the oven temperature to 150°C. Filling: Quarter the lemon and orange and remove pips. Chop the fruit roughly and place in a food processor along with the sugar. Process until the fruit is well chopped but still has some texture. Add the remaining ingredients and process briefly to combine. Pour over the

hot crust and bake for a further 45–55 minutes or until the mixture is fully set in the centre and the top is lightly golden. I don’t know if it’s the acid content that varies in the fruit, but sometimes I have had to cook this slice for up to an hour before it’s fully set. Leave to cool completely in the tin, then chill if desired. To serve: Holding the baking paper, carefully lift out of the tin. Dust with icing sugar and cut into squares or rectangles. For more Friday Baking recipes visit dish.co.nz or sign up for our weekly newsletter


Presto Pasta Nothing compares to the taste of freshly made pasta. The Kenwood Chef Sense Pasta Roller attachment makes it ever-so-easy to make at home. With more than 20 attachments, the Kenwood Chef Sense oers complete versatility, no matter what the recipe. The stainless steel easy-feed roller fits eortlessly on to the machine and is adjustable to create sheets of varying thickness, whether it’s for layering in a hearty lasagne or fresh ravioli. Or use one of the four pasta cutters to make tagliatelle, tagliolini, trenette and spaghetti. The Kenwood Chef Sense kitchen machine is the main ingredient for perfect results every time. One machine, a world of possibilities.

www.kenwood-newzealand.co.nz


F I N I S H E D I N AGED WHISKY BARRELS. RICHER. DEEPER. SMOOTHER.

92 POINTS

*VINTAGE 1

BOB CAMPBELL MW*


 
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