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Welcome to September I’m willing to bet that however long ago your school days were, this month still holds a shiny promise of new term, a fresh start. For families, it’s particularly busy following the holiday lull. Our September survival guide (p63) is designed to make life that bit easier to organise over the next few weeks, with new recipes and ideas to help feed your hungry horde. ‘There’s something for everyone,’ says our Cookery writer, Chelsie Collins. ‘My game-changer sandwiches keep their crunch till lunch, you’ll save on the washing-up with my one-pot wonders, plus I guarantee the kids will be excited to open their lunchboxes.’ Other ways to savour the season include exclusive recipes from Tom Kerridge (p42) and Diana Henry (p52) using venison, figs, blackberries and cauliflower. And why not bottle a little bit of summer with our easy homemade plum chutney (p51). Full of flavour, these satisfying seasonal dishes capture the sun-mellowed magic of the month.
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120 Contents September 2016
News & trends RIGHT NOW 9 HOT Make Vietnamese egg coffee at 16
home, learn about Barbary Coast cuisine, plus this month’s news, reviews and best buys ON AIR The Hairy Bikers are back with a new BBC series
This month SKILLS YOU NEED TO KNOW NOW 21 21Raise your game with these
Eat well every day SURVIVAL GUIDE 63 SEPTEMBER New recipes to transform your
modern recipes and techniques
28 42 51 52 59
NEW KITCHEN TRICKS
Bring your cooking bang up to date TOM’S SEASONAL KITCHEN
Tom Kerridge’s exclusive recipes PRESERVE THE SEASON A plum chutney with a citrussy bite STAR INGREDIENT
Learn how to cook with figs BEHIND THE HEADLINES Why we miss out on the best fruit and veg
packed lunches and family meals
73 74 83 87 88
A simple, spicy veggie pilau MAKE IT EASY Fresh supper ideas to add to your midweek repertoire BIG BATCH CEREALS Give yourself a head start at breakfast DINNER DASH Liven up your meals with a dollop of pesto ROAST WITH THE MOST Succulent roast pork with crunchy crackling
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 5
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Food stories LIFE ON A PLATE Family recipes 97 MY from Bake Off’s Mel Giedroyc BIG APPLE Emma Freud’s 100 EMMA’S ultimate all-day New York blowout YOUR RECIPES 103 SHARE A delicious artichoke bake AND FARMING AWARDS The Devon 104 FOOD seaside shack championing oysters Be inspired GOOD FOOD Cook a no-fuss 106 SIMPLY three-course meal for two MAKEOVER John Torode 110 MASTERCHEF shares his fiery, fragrant Thai curry INSPIRATION Recreate dishes 112 MENU from the Tate Modern’s new restaurant CLUB This courgette & thyme 118 CAKE cake makes an impressive centrepiece CHEF MasterChef judge Monica 120 GUEST Galetti updates a warming French dish NEW DRINK RULES How to sound 123 THE like a wine expert, by Victoria Moore Food lovers’ travel Marina O’Loughlin revels in 128 SICILY the abundance of the Etna region QUICK TRIPS Half-term holidays to 132 SIX please kids – and their foodie parents A LOCAL Discover the best 136 ASK places to eat in Belfast Test Kitchen Adam Handling’s crab 141 MASTERCLASS doughnuts, plus expert tips and advice Every issue GOOD FOOD SUBSCRIBER OFFERS 60 BBC Fantastic deals and discounts MISS OUR BBC GOOD FOOD SHOWS 94 DON’T Book now for great savings NEXT MONTH 127 COMING Sneak preview of our October issue KITCHEN Olia Hercules welcomes 150 MY us into her cosy, colourful kitchen 152 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENTS RECIPE INDEX Plus how to get the 159 best from our recipes FEEDBACK 161 READER Share your views and photos AS NICE Peach Melba pop pies 162 TWICE – a modern update of a retro breakfast
You’ll ind our recipe index on page 159
104 Make our cover recipe, p34
BEST OF THE BBC ON AIR The Hairy Bikers’ new show – p16 TOM KERRIDGE Fresh seasonal recipes – p42 RADIO 4 Food and Farming finalist – p104 JOHN TORODE MasterChef makeover – p110 MONICA GALETTI Comfort food dish – p120
6 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Recipe CASSIE BEST Photograph SAM STOWELL Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling SARAH BIRKS COOK THE COVER Make our slow cooker cheesecake and share your photo #bbcgoodfood #cookthecover
Our wraps are Super Soft so theyâ€™re easier to fold & hold fillings better. Wrap up whatever you fancy.
Hot right now What to try, what to buy and where to book this month
Photograph MYLES NEW | Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE | Styling LUIS PERAL | Follow Elaine
edited by ELAINE STOCKS
Vietnamese egg coffee Fans of affogato, tiramisu and Irish coffee will love the latest after-dinner trend. Hailing from Vietnam, egg coffee is like having a billowy sweet zabaglione served on top of hot espresso.
Why it’s on-trend Called ca phe trung da, it’s one of the many ways to drink coffee in Vietnam’s capital, Hanoi, which has become a hot destination
for food lovers in recent years. We came across it at Cafe Pho Co, a rooftop coffee house in the city. Since then, we’ve spotted this luxurious drink all over social media. However, the coffee actually dates back to the 1950s, when fresh milk was scarce. Nguyen Van Giang, who ran Giang Café in Hanoi, blended egg yolk with sweetened condensed milk for his now-iconic coffee – often described as liquid tiramisu.
Where to drink it Find it at Bang Bang Vietnamese Canteen in London’s Fitzrovia (@BangBangCanteen) and Pho Ta in Dublin’s Templebar (phota.ie). Or make your own – turn the page for our recipe. Miriam Nice Spotted egg coffee near you or made our recipe? Share you photos on Instagram #gftrends
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 9
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins NO COOK
4 egg yolks 150ml condensed milk 1 tsp vanilla extract 200ml strong espresso (approx 4 x double espressos) dark chocolate, grated (optional)
1 Put the egg yolks, condensed milk and vanilla extract in a large mixing bowl. Whisk with electric beaters for at least 5 mins or until pale and foamy. 2 Put 4 heatproof glasses or ramekins into slightly larger bowls that have been half-filled with boiling water (this will keep the coffee in the glasses hot for longer). 3 Pour the freshly brewed coffee into the glasses, reserving 2 tbsp, then top with scoops of the egg mixture. Drizzle the remaining coffee on top so that it stains the topping and sinks in. Scatter over a pinch of the grated dark chocolate, if you like. Serve immediately, with spoons.
Breakfast club Mornings can be chaotic, especially for families. But studies repeatedly show that kids who eat a good breakfast have a far higher intakes of vitamins, minerals and ibre, which help them to focus in class. Some schools now organise breakfast clubs because they’ve seen such a difference in performance when children get a decent start to the day. The most nourishing breakfasts for children are packed with slow-release energy from granary bread, cereals, porridge oats, nuts and fruit. Look for a simple wholewheat, oat or branbased cereal, then add some fruit for sweetness. Avocado or peanut butter & banana on toast, yogurt topped with fresh fruit, cereal and nuts or overnight oats all make for a quick, healthy start. For more ideas, visit bbcgoodfood.com/ healthyschoolchildren
BENEFITS gluten free PER SERVING 187 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 3g • carbs 21g • sugars 20g • ibre none • protein 6g • salt 0.1g
Hand-carved wooden spoons, £11-£20, WholeGrainHomes, etsy.com Lightweight and durable, these are made using a variety of woods. 10 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Barbary Coast cuisine Each month we look at a restaurant trend and tell you what you need to know, and the dishes and drinks to go for The Barbary Coast is the area settled by the Berbers in the Atlas Mountains, which stretch over Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia. People travelled along this coast, across the Mediterranean and on to Israel, collecting and sharing ingredients and recipes along the way. All these countries have rich culinary traditions passed down through the generations. Layo Paskin, creative director of new The Barbary restaurant in London, explains what you should look out for on the menu (thebarbary.co.uk). Cauli lower Jaffa style The Israeli city of Jaffa is famous for the coexistence of Jews and Arabs. This dish is made by deepfrying cauli lower lorets with garlic, chilli, parsley, lemon, tahini and grated tomato. Arayes (ah-reys) A Lebanese pitta bread illed with fresh ish or meat, onion, lemon, cumin and herbs that is grilled and served with tahini and zhug (a Yemeni hot sauce). Baba ganoush Blended roast aubergine salad with aïoli, garlic, herbs and pine nuts. Knafeh In this traditional dessert, kaitai i
(a Middle Eastern pastry that looks like shredded wheat) is illed with mozzarella and goat’s cheese, covered in lemon sugar syrup, and served with pistachios and fresh raspberries. Naan-e-barbari An ancient latbread from Persia, somewhere between a naan bread and a laafa (Middle Eastern latbread). It is made with lour, yeast and water, then cooked in the taboon – a clay cone-shaped oven). Nishnushim Hebrew for snacks. Thigurt Yogurt mixed with tahini.
Knafeh, made with kaitai i pastry
Family time LILY BARCLAY | Punch recipe photograph CLAIRE WINFIELD | Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE | Styling WEI TANG
Vietnamese egg coffee
news & trends
Wilhelmina’s punch Get the party started with this crowd-pleasing punch Storytelling is very important at the Zetter Townhouse hotels in London – both of which were designed to re lect their ictional inhabitants. Clerkenwell is home to Great Aunt Wilhelmina, and is quaint, feminine and illed with Victoriana. Zetter’s Marylebone hotel is a little darker and more masculine, to re lect the character of its resident, Great Uncle Seymour. The cocktails at each bar are also inspired by the characters. Wilhelmina’s punch is a simple summer drink that’s best served in a big glass bowl for a gathering (thezettertownhouse.com).
Wilhelmina’s summer punch For an extra-special twist, swap the sparkling water for champagne. SERVES 8 10 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
125ml lemon juice 50g caster sugar 250ml elder lower liqueur (we used St Germain) 250ml vodka 500ml apple juice (Bramley is best if you like it sharp)
125ml sparkling water ice fresh summer herbs like lemon verbena, mint and basil (optional) lemon slices (optional)
In a bowl, mix the lemon juice and sugar until the sugar dissolves. Transfer into a large serving bowl, add the other liquid ingredients, fill to the top with ice and stir gently. Serve immediately, with herbs and lemon slices, if you like. BENEFITS vegan • gluten free PER SERVING (10) 177 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 16g • sugars 16g • ibre none • protein none • salt none
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 11
ON OUR RADAR
Does coffee trigger migraines?
Sytch Farm pottery
Agra marble & acacia wood chopping board, £30, Habitat
Visit one of Tom Kerridge’s gastropubs, and you will ind the crockery as eyecatching as his awardwinning food. Many items are made by Gill Thompson, from Sytch Farm Studios near Shrewsbury, one of a select band of potters being commissioned by chefs. Gill (right), who handthrows stoneware pieces using Cornwall clay, says: ‘I met Tom when I had a stand at a festival in 2014. At the time I was teaching art and ceramics – making pots was just a hobby. Tom loved my designs. He ordered
30 bowls on the spot, and I’ve never looked back.’ She now crafts tableware full-time. Lots of her orders come from other chefs, including Marcus Bean and Hus Vedat, who has just opened Yosma in London. ‘I offer a bespoke service – I bring their ideas to life.’ Social media has made chefs more aware of the visuals of their dishes. ‘Presentation has become so important,’ she says. ‘Gill creates beautiful stoneware,’ says Tom. ‘Tactile, warm and rustic, her pieces have a sophistication that makes them special.’
Gill will be at the Ludlow Food Festival (9 11 Sept) and the BBC Good Food Show Winter in Birmingham (24 27 Nov). You can also order via her website, sytchfarmstudios.co.uk. Clare Hargreaves
£ ELECTRIC WHISKS £
VonShef 300W Hand Mixer, £15.99, Amazon With beaters, dough hooks and a balloon whisk included, this is a bargain. It’s strong, lightweight and stylish, and has ive speed settings, including a turbo function, which is great for whipping egg whites. All attachments are dishwasher safe.
KitchenAid 9 Speed Hand Mixer, £92.95, John Lewis This attractive and durable hand mixer is remarkably quiet. It has nine different speeds. The slowest is perfect for combining dough mixtures, while the fastest whisks egg whites rapidly. As well as beaters, a whisk, dough hooks and a mixing rod, you also get a cotton storage bag to keep them in.
12 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Health news SARAH LIENARD | Corn recipes CHELSIE COLLINS
Certain foods and drinks are cited as migraine triggers. Prof Peter Goadsby from the NIHR Wellcome Trust King’s Clinical Research Facility, London, explains: y Alcohol and foods containing nitrates, such as cured meats, are well-recognised triggers. Beyond that, it’s difficult to label any foods as problematic – each individual can be sensitive to different things. y Regular caffeine does not clearly cause migraines, but withdrawal may. Often, people drink coffee later at the weekend than during the week – triggering an attack. y Food cravings – such as cheese or chocolate – occur in the earliest phase of an attack, before the headache. Some foods called triggers might really be symptoms. y Routine is key. Migraine sufferers need to have regular sleep, meals and exercise. Attacks are more likely when they deviate from this. Migraine Awareness week runs 4 10 Sept. Visit bbcgoodfood. com/migraine for more advice.
Corn photograph CLARE WINFIELD | Food styling ELLIE JARVIS | Styling WEI TANG
news & trends
Corn toppers Coco loco Pan-fry 2 cooked corn on the cobs in 1 tbsp coconut oil until golden brown. Squeeze over the juice of 1 lime, 1 tbsp toasted coconut lakes and 1 inely chopped chilli for a tropical twist.
Hot, hot, hot Rub 4 cooked cobs with 2 tbsp peri peri seasoning and 30g butter. Cook in a smoking-hot griddle pan until charred on all sides. Drizzle over 1 tbsp chilli oil and 2 tbsp chopped coriander.
Golden & garlicky Heat 50g unsalted butter in a frying pan over a medium heat until turning nutty brown. Add 2 large crushed garlic cloves and swirl until golden. Brush the butter over 2 cooked corn cobs and sprinkle with 25g inely grated Parmesan. Great with a steak.
Go Greek Blitz 100g black and green olives with 2 tbsp olive oil and 1 tsp dried oregano to form a paste. Coat two cooked cobs in the paste and crumble over 2 tbsp feta, 1 tbsp diced tomatoes and a handful of chopped parsley.
Miso sesame Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Coat 4 cobs in sesame seeds and roast in 2 tbsp sesame oil and 200g white miso paste until cooked through. â€˘ Coat your corn evenly â€“ see p142
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 13
Seaweed Nutrient-dense seaweed is no longer just for sushi. Try Seamore’s carb-free ‘I sea pasta’, made from wild organic seaweed (seamorefood.com).
Savoury doughnuts The hottest stuffed doughnuts now have savoury illings. We love the pizza doughnuts at Heist Bank, London. Turn to page 146 for a recipe for crab doughnuts.
Biodegradable beer packs The Saltwater Brewery has made 100% biodegradable six-pack beer rings. Sea animals can now eat the rings rather than choke on them (saltwaterbrewery.com).
BOOST YOUR DIET
This rare black chicken is a hit with both foodies and gym-goers. The £15 bird is leaner and has a gamey lavour (musclefood.com).
You’re familiar with red, white, rosé – maybe even orange. Now wine company Gik has created a sweet wine that is electric blue. Tempted? No, neither are we!
Competitive eating Somehow Man v. Food-style challenges involving gorging on giant portions for absolutely no reason have made their way across the pond. Unnecessary.
FOOD EDITOR’S BUYS
Cassie Best’s picks
Fever-Tree aromatic tonic water (500ml), £1.69, Waitrose Fever-Tree has added angostura bark to its classic tonic water, resulting in a less bitter, more rounded lavour. Serve this aromatic version with gin or enjoy it on its own as a sophisticated soft drink.
14 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Salsa Brava spicy tomato sauce, £2.95, brindisa.com A rich and smoky salsa. Serve it over roast potatoes for a simple patatas bravas, as an accompaniment to meat, or stirred through pasta for a cheat’s arrabbiata.
The Heart of Nature Chia Seeds pure grain bread, £3.99, Whole Foods Made entirely from grains and seeds, this nutritious bread is wheat-free, full of lavour and utterly satisfying. Eat it buttered, topped with smoked salmon or alongside soup.
Hippeas organic chickpea puffs ‘In herbs we trust’ (22g), £1.19, Holland & Barrett These crispy chickpea puffs are low in fat, vegan, gluten-free and only 91 calories a bag. We loved this super herby lavour – good for a lunchbox.
Berry photograph | CHARLIE RICHARDS STOCKFOOD
Tuck into purple sweet potatoes, aubergines, red cabbage, blackberries and blueberries (which have even been linked to a lower risk of Alzheimer’s disease in adults and improved cognition in children). Bring on the berries!
Health news SARAH LIENARD | Barometer ANNA LAWSON
If you’re already ‘eating a rainbow’, you might want to double up the purple and blue portions on your plate. Naturally purple foods contain compounds called anthocyanins, which have been linked to increased brain power and longevity.
news & trends BEHIND THE TREND
More for you
Hybrid bakes Each month, we take a trend and explain why you’re eating it now
In the beginning In 2013, New York pastry chef Dominique Ansel crossed a doughnut with a croissant and invented the Cronut®. It was an instant hit and one of the year’s most sought-after items – there were long queues, and touts sold them on the black market. Then Ansel trademarked the name, but the idea of mash-ups quickly caught on, and hybrid bakes sprang up worldwide. Toronto’s Clafouti Patisserie squished together croissants and Oreos to create a ‘Crookie’. Now Mash-ups are still huge. Instagram is awash with sushi cakes and other quirky pairings, and even Greggs offers the Greggsnut – a sticky croissant-doughnut combo. We expect more queues when Ansel opens a branch of his bakery in London’s Belgravia this autumn (dominiqueansellondon.com). Make your own Ansel shares a Cronut® recipe in his book, Dominique Ansel: The Secret Recipes. But he admits it is challenging: ‘If you don’t bake, start off with something simpler, like madeleines.’ Or try Edd Kimber’s mash-up bake (right), the doughsant (bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/doughsant). Natalie Hardwick
GF LIVE Tickets for the BBC Good Food autumn and winter shows are now on sale. Find out more on p82 – subscribers save 25% on tickets!
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COOK AND LEARN
Corkcicle small canteen bottle, £17.99, trouva.com This stylish, triple-insulated stainless-steel bottle keeps drinks cool for 25 hours, or hot for 12.
Out & about
Fresh India by Meera Sodha (£20, Fig Tree) Following on from her best-selling debut, Made in India, Meera has created a collection of 130 fresh, modern recipes inspired by India’s love of vegetables. Meera, who was born in Lincolnshire to Ugandan-Gujarati parents, divides her book into different vegetables – Roots, Squashes & tubers, Gloriously green and Aubergines – as well as starters, breads, rice, drinks and desserts. There are exciting twists on familiar dishes (sweet potato vindaloo, cauli lower korma with blackened raisins), plus more unusual recipes – Gujarati corn on the cob curry and shredded Brussels sprouts thoran. Many dishes are quick enough for midweek, and she has included menu ideas for entertaining.
What we cooked Aubergine fesenjan and fresh coconut rice with cashews & shallots. A Persian dish served to Indian emperors, the velvety roasted aubergine is piled on top of a nutty sauce, with a perfect balance of sweet and sour. The rice was sweet and crunchy with a hit of chilli. Best for Curry fans who want to cook healthier vegetarian dishes. Fiona Forman
FAMILY FOOD Look out for Good Food Family – a new magazine special containing 112 easy, everyday recipes – on sale from 1 September, £3.90. HOW TO VIDEOS Get to grips with slow cookers, learn how to make the best boiled eggs, and discover three simple recipes every student needs. Find these and more at bbcgoodfood.com.
2 4 SEPT Meatopia UK, London meatopia.co.uk O 2 4 SEPT Nantwich Food Festival nantwichfoodfestival.co.uk 10 11 SEPT Holker Chilli Festival, Holker Hall, Cumbria holker.co.uk O 16 18 SEPT Good Life Experience, Flintshire thegoodlifeexperience.co.uk O 23 25 SEPT Great Cornish Food Festival greatcornishfood.co.uk/ festival O 24 25 SEPT Aldeburgh Food & Drink Festival aldeburghfoodanddrink.co.uk
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 15
On air Who’s on and what’s cooking across BBC TV and radio this month THE HAIRY BIKERS’ CHICKEN & EGG In their new series, the Hairy Bikers – Si King and Dave Myers – are on a mission to eat the world’s most popular chicken and egg recipes. Their quest takes the pair across Europe, the Middle East and America, before they return home for a cook-off using these versatile and nutritious ingredients in a huge variety of savoury and sweet dishes. The Hairy Bikers’ new six-part series starts Monday 5 September on BBC Two.
Turkish eggs We first ate this dish in Istanbul and we’ve loved it ever since. A gorgeous mixture of chilli, yogurt and poached eggs, it’s cropping up more and more in British kitchens now and we reckon this can only be a good thing. Great with warm toasted flatbread. SERVES 3 PREP 8 10 mins COOK 7 mins EASY
300g strained Greek yogurt 1 garlic clove, crushed 50g butter 1 /2 -1 tsp chilli lakes 1 tsp sweet smoked paprika 1 tsp white wine vinegar 6 very fresh eggs small handful parsley leaves, inely chopped small handful mint leaves, inely chopped
1 Strain the Greek yogurt through a muslin if it’s particularly liquidy, then stir in the garlic and season. Divide the yogurt between your serving bowls. 2 Melt the butter in a small saucepan over a medium heat, and add the chilli flakes and smoked paprika. Heat until the butter starts to brown, then remove the pan from the heat and set it aside. 3 Half-fill a saucepan with water and add the white wine vinegar. Bring the water to the boil, then carefully lower the eggs (still in their shells) into the water and leave them for exactly 20 secs. Remove the eggs from the water. 4 Turn down the heat so the water is barely simmering. Carefully crack the eggs into the water and cook them for 21/2 mins. Once they’re cooked, they will rise to the surface. Remove them from the pan, put them on some kitchen paper to drain, then place them on the yogurt in the bowls. Drizzle over the chilli butter, sprinkle some parsley and mint on top, and serve immediately. BENEFITS vegetarian • gluten free PER SERVING 411 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 18g • carbs 5g • sugars 5g • ibre 1g • protein 19g • salt 0.8g
Recipe adapted from The Hairy Bikers’ Chicken & Egg by Si King and Dave Myers (£22, Orion).
16 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Next UK restaurant on your list? Lake Road Kitchen in Ambleside, Cumbria (lakeroadkitchen.co.uk). It’s run by James Cross, a talented young chef. The team grow their own fruit and veg, and use a lot of local and wild produce.
Where would you like to open your next restaurant? Los Angeles. Irha and I love the scene, style and general vibe of LA. There’s a nice balance of buzzy yet relaxed.
Jason Atherton Since opening the award-winning Pollen Street Social in 2011, Jason has built a successful chain of restaurants across London and in Dubai, Hong Kong, New York, Shanghai and Sydney
Favourite meal on a night off? Italian meatballs, a irm favourite with my family.
Tuscany. I love the good, simple ingredients of Italian food. I’d also like to do a trip from there to chef Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Fransescana, in Modena, which I’ve heard a great deal about (osteriafransescana.it).
Next restaurant trend? Casual dining by far. Give it another year or two and it will really peak.
Most-thumbed cookbook? Dining in France by French food critic Christian Millau. I’ve had it since I was 16, it’s a great old favourite and it’s still on my shelf!
Kitchen must-haves? Vinegar, as my wife, Irha, loves sharp-tasting food. Olive oil, as it’s so versatile, and garlic – it gives a great kick to any meal, and fresh garlic is very good for you.
Jason will present Saturday Kitchen on 3 September at 10am on BBC One with guest chefs Pierre Koffmann and Aktar Islam.
EDITOR’S CHOICE THE KITCHEN CABINET Jay Rayner takes another culinary tour of the country, starting in Londonderry on 24 September. On the panel, offering advice to food-loving locals, will be chef Tim Anderson, scientist Zoe Laughlin and cooks Rachel McCormack and Paula McIntyre. Joining Jay on 1 October in Windsor will be historian Annie Gray, food writer Tim Hayward, Rachel McCormack and chef Itamar Srulovich from the restaurant Honey & Co. Saturdays at 10.30am on Radio 4.
YES CHEF BBC One’s new cooking show pits 16 Michelin-starred chefs against
each other, with each chef pairing up with and training a home cook. To pile on the pressure, their inal dishes will be judged by three-star Michelin chef Pierre Koffmann (above with host Sheree Murphy). Competitors include Richard Corrigan, Theo Randall, Atul Kochhar, Nathan Outlaw and Galton Blackiston.
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 17
TV news KATHRYN CUSTANCE | Recipe photograph ANDREW HAYES WATKINS Yes Chef photograph BBC/ITV STUDIOS/STEVE GREEN. Programme information correct at time of going to press. Please check Radio Times, radiotimes.com or bbc.co.uk for transmission dates.
21 SKILLS YOU NEEDTO KNOWNOW Faster, healthier or just plain better – these new techniques and recipes will raise your kitchen game whether you’re cooking brunch, seeking free-from inspiration or whizzing up dips and cocktails Words EVE O’SULLIVAN and ROSIE REYNOLDS
Quick fridge pickles
Ready to eat in a couple of hours, and great for digestive health, these couldn’t be simpler. You’ll probably already have most of the ingredients you need: salt, sugar, cider vinegar and a couple of aromatics, such as mustard seeds, Sichuan peppercorns and bay leaves. Mix ive parts vinegar to one part sugar, plus a pinch of salt, and heat in a saucepan with the aromatics until the sugar has dissolved. Once cool, pour the pickling liquid over your chosen veg in a sterilised jar, seal and chill – we love using cauli lower lorets and carrot batons. They will keep for a week in the fridge.
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 21
Best lunchbox grains
Great with a beer, and even better as a veggie substitute for ish tacos, this is a brilliant way to use avocados that refuse to ripen. Mix 150g lour with tsp baking powder, 1/2 tsp ground turmeric, a pinch of cayenne and some seasoning, then whisk in 230ml lager. Slice 2 avocados into 8 (16 slices in total). Season well, dip them in the batter, then deep-fry at 180C for around 3 mins until golden.
Make a batch of this fermented Korean staple to eat with rice, noodles or in a cheese toastie. Put 1 roughly chopped Chinese cabbage and 2 tbsp salt in a metal bowl and cover with cold water. Weigh down with a plate so all the leaves are submerged, then leave for 2 hrs. Mix 2 tbsp gochugaru (Korean red pepper powder) with a 5cm piece ginger, shredded, 6 inely chopped garlic cloves and a tiny drizzle of water to form a paste. Drain the cabbage, squeeze out the excess water and mix with a bunch spring onions and thinly sliced daikon, making sure the veg is properly coated in the paste. Pack tightly into a sterilised jar and leave in a cool, dark place for at least 5 days. Once opened, keep in the fridge and use within a month.
You need something with texture that absorbs lavour without going soggy, so look for grains with their husks on. We love siyez, amaranth, millet, emmer and spelt (try Holland & Barrett). Cook a batch and store in the fridge to use through the week.
In a food processor, whizz 200g feta with 200g thick Greek yogurt and 4 tbsp olive oil until smooth, then chill. Add herbs, toasted chopped nuts or dried fruit. Serve with veg sticks or latbread.
The new Negroni is the sbagliato (which
means ‘gone wrong’). Use sparkling rosé in place of gin. Add 25ml Campari to 100ml sparkling rosé, 1 tbsp vermouth, loads of crushed ice and a slice of orange. For extra lavour, rub the rim of your glass with a strip of orange peel, squeezing to release the oils.
eggs in your recipe, beat the whites to stiff peaks, then fold into the mix with the yolks.
Vibrant vegan pestos
A good pesto is all about great colour, taste and texture. The healthier option leaves out the Parmesan, so to achieve the umami hit, add 1 tbsp nutritional yeast (available at ocado.com) for a salty, savoury kick. A garlic clove and some good olive oil adds extra lavour. These combinations are our favourites: O Large handful kale and small handful pumpkin seeds O 2 roasted yellow peppers, 1 tsp turmeric and handful toasted macadamia nuts O Small handfuls parsley, mint and toasted pistachios
The secret to luffy pancakes Separate the
Polenta is comfort food, and a good alternative to mash, so make sure it’s rich and creamy. Add milk – roughly 200ml to every 600ml water. Be generous with the salt (at least 2 tsp per 150g polenta), and the butter too – no skimping!
Super-smooth houmous Tip the
chickpeas into a big bowl, cover with cold water, then lift them out of the water and rub them between your palms to remove the skins. Lower your hands into the water – the skins should loat to the surface and the chickpeas sink. Discard the skins and make your houmous as normal.
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Crisp cauli lower pizza base
Make pizza everyone can enjoy with this gluten-free version. The key to success is to ensure your cooked cauli lower is really dry: put the cauli lower in a clean tea towel and squeeze out all the excess water. Find the recipe on bbcgoodfood.com.
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Brilliant baked eggs
Give them a minute or two longer than you think – around 8 mins over a medium heat or in the oven at 180C, and always cover your egg with a lid or foil to ensure the whites cook through.
Balance your grain bowls Whether you call
them grain, nourish or Buddha bowls, the idea is that half of it is illed with veg, one-quarter is made up of grains and one-quarter protein, such as chickpeas, roast chicken or feta. Make sure your dressing is zingy – lime, harissa & honey works well – and that there’s plenty of texture. Reserve a few chickpeas to roast in spices for the topping, or fry some seeds in a little soy sauce for a savoury hit.
For silky curds and a fresher taste than shop-bought, heat 1.5 litres milk in a large saucepan until just before boiling point, then add 2 tbsp vinegar and tsp salt. Remove from the heat and allow to stand for 15 minutes. The milk will curdle, and the curds and whey will begin to separate. Place a thin J-cloth or piece of muslin in a sieve set over a large bowl. Pour the milk mixture into the sieve, allowing the liquid to drain, leaving behind the ricotta. Drain for 20 30 minutes for soft ricotta, but longer if you like a irm consistency. Try it in our Ricotta strawberry French toast – visit bbcgoodfood.com for the recipe.
Buttermilk fried chicken
Tangy buttermilk and aromatics tenderise and lavour the meat, raising this Friday night treat to new heights. Marinate chicken legs and thighs in buttermilk, garlic, chilli, lemon zest, salt and thyme. Leave as long as possible (ideally overnight). Brush off excess marinade and dredge liberally in seasoned lour. Pour oil into a large, deep frying pan so it comes halfway up the sides. Once hot, carefully lower the chicken into the oil and fry for 15 minutes, turning every few minutes. Drain on kitchen paper, season and eat straight away.
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Egg-free mayo Don’t
Great gluten-free lour cake mix
throw away your aquafaba (chickpea water) when you drain the can. Put 3 tbsp chickpea water, 1 heaped tsp Dijon mustard, garlic clove, a generous squeeze of lemon juice and 150ml light lavoured oil, such as grapeseed, into a high-sided jar or bowl. Use a stick blender to blend to an emulsion – this will make around 300ml. Chill until required.
16 Just-right courgetti Don’t pre-cook courgetti as you would spaghetti – drop the courgetti directly into your hot pasta sauce and toss together until it has just softened, but retains a little bite.
For a good texture, you need a balance of starchy lours (such as potato or white rice) to hold things together, and wholegrain lours for the protein element that gives structure to a wheat lour bake – we like buckwheat, quinoa and millet. Generally a good rule of thumb is 60% starch to 40% grain.
Make a versatile vegan cream
For a dairy-free substitute for whipped cream, put stabiliser-free coconut milk (check the label) in the fridge for at least eight hours – once the cream has become solid, scoop off the thick top layer and beat with an electric whisk for a few minutes until you have lovely soft peaks. Add a bit of icing sugar to sweeten it, if you like.
Why do we like this method? The heat of the casserole crisps the base of the loaf, and the steam helps to develop that wonderful chewy-crunch combination that the best artisan loaves have. Heat a large cast-iron casserole dish in a really hot oven. Tip your prepared and risen dough into the hot dish, cover with a lid and bake for 30 minutes, then remove the lid and cook for a further 15 minutes or until your bread is browned.
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The trick is ice-cold sparkling water, a pinch of bicarb and whisked egg whites folded into the batter. Always make sure your oil is hot before frying. For perfect tempura, dust your vegetables with ‘00’ lour so the crisp batter doesn’t slide off when cooked. Make sure the oil is kept at the right temperature to prevent soggy batter. Rosie Reynolds (left) and Eve O’Sullivan are authors and food stylists. Their book, The Kitchen Shelf (£24.95, Phaidon), is available now. @RRFoodStyle, @eve_os. Share your kitchen tips with us at email@example.com, or follow @bbcgoodfood on Instagram and Twitter – tag your tips #gfnewskills
Illustrations ANDREW JOYCE | Portrait DANNI SANCHEZ
Crusty sourdough in a casserole
MAVERICKS - DONâ€™T DO RUN OF THE MILL
NEW SEA SALT & PINK PEPPERCORN
NEW KITCHEN TRICKS This month, Cassie Best reveals her best-kept kitchen secrets. Using technology, new methods and a little kitchen know-how, she shows you how to bring your cooking bang up to date photographs SAM STOWELL Cassie Best, our Senior food editor, trained as a chef at Leiths School of Food and Wine. Over the past ive years she has written hundreds of recipes for Good Food. @cassiecooks
Whether you learned to cook at school or by watching Delia or Nigella, some kitchen rules will be familiar. ‘Stir the risotto continuously’, ‘knead dough for 10 minutes to develop the gluten’, ‘cook pasta in a deep pan of boiling water’. But times and technology have changed, and so have the ways we cook. So I’m rethinking the old school of cooking in these new recipes, each with a clever twist or trick to make them better, easier and more forward thinking. No pizza oven? No worries – a frying pan will do. Want perfect steak every time? Try the genius method on page 38. Welcome to the new school.
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For the full recipe, see p32
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SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
Microwave crab risotto with chilli crab toasts This dinner party dish might just become your new kitchen secret. Forget patiently stirring away at a pan for half an hour to create a perfect creamy risotto – this cheat’s version cooks in half the time, and the microwave does the hard work! You can make the salsa ahead or throw it together while the drinks are being poured.
For the risotto 1 tbsp olive oil 2 shallots, inely chopped 50ml white wine 300g risotto rice 600ml cold ish stock 100g brown crabmeat juice 1/2 lemon 50g mascarpone For the toasts 1 small baguette, sliced on an angle as thinly as possible 1 garlic clove, squashed 1 tbsp olive oil 100g white crabmeat 1 red chilli, deseeded and inely chopped For the rocket salsa large handful rocket, inely chopped, plus a few leaves to serve 2 tsp capers, drained and inely chopped zest and juice 1/2 lemon 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus a drizzle
1 Put the oil and shallots in a large, microwaveable container with a
Frying pan pizza with aubergine, ricotta & mint For a crisp pizza base, you need a smoking hot oven, a pizza stone or a wood-fired stove. If you don’t have any of these, you may end up with a disappointingly soggy base. However, my version is guaranteed to give you crispy-bottomed results without even turning on the oven. SERVES 2 PREP 25 mins plus rising COOK 35 mins EASY
For the dough 200g strong white bread lour, plus a little for dusting 1 /2 tsp fast-action dried yeast 1 /4 tsp golden caster sugar a little oil, for greasing For the toppings 4 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced 200g passata pinch of golden caster sugar (optional) 1 small aubergine, sliced into discs 100g ricotta small handful mint, roughly chopped extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
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1 Weigh the ingredients for the dough into a large bowl and add 1 /2 tsp salt and 125ml warm water. Mix to form a soft dough, then tip onto your work surface and knead for 5 mins or until the dough feels stretchy. Clean and grease the bowl and return the dough. Cover with cling film and leave somewhere warm to rise for 1 hr, or until the dough has doubled in size. 2 Meanwhile, make the sauce. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a pan and add the garlic. Sizzle gently for 30 secs, making sure the garlic doesn’t brown, then add the passata. Season well and bubble for 8-10 mins until you have a rich sauce – add a pinch of sugar if it tastes a little too tart. Set aside. 3 When the dough has risen, knock out the air and roll it into a pizza base the same size as a large frying pan. Oil the surface of the dough, cover with cling film , then leave on the work surface for 15 mins to puff up a little. Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp oil in the frying pan and add the aubergines in a single layer (you may have to cook in batches).
pinch of salt and stir well. Cover with a lid or cling film and cook on high for 1 min. Add the white wine and cook for another 1 min uncovered. Stir in the rice and stock, season well, then cover. Cook for another 10 mins, stirring every 2-3 mins. Mix in the brown crabmeat and the lemon juice, cover and cook for a final 2 mins, stirring halfway. Add the mascarpone, check the seasoning and add a splash of hot water if the risotto is too thick. Leave covered for another 1 min. 2 Meanwhile, make the toasts and salsa. Toast the baguette slices in a toaster or under the grill. Rub each piece with the garlic clove and drizzle with oil. Combine the white crabmeat and chilli, and season well. For the salsa, mix all the ingredients in a bowl, or blitz to a pesto consistency in a mini blender. 3 To serve, divide the risotto between bowls and drizzle over the salsa. Top each toast with a mound of chilli crab and put two on top of each bowl (serve any extras on the side). Scatter over a few rocket leaves and drizzle with a little more oil before serving. PER SERVING 758 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 7g • carbs 96g • sugars 6g • ibre 4g • protein 28g • salt 1.7g
Season well and cook for 4-5 mins on each side until really tender and golden. Transfer to a dish and cover with foil to keep warm. 4 Heat the remaining 1 tbsp of oil in the pan and carefully lift the dough into it. You may have to reshape it a little to fit. Cook over a low-medium heat until the underside is golden brown and the edges of the dough are starting to look dry and set – this should take about 6 mins, but it’s best to go by eye. Flip over, drizzle a little more oil around the edge of the pan so it trickles underneath the pizza base, and cook for another 5-6 mins until golden and cooked through. Reheat the sauce if you need to and spread it over the base. Top with the warm aubergines and dot with spoonfuls of ricotta. Scatter with mint and drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil just before serving. BENEFITS vegetarian • calcium • folate • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 721 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 7g • carbs 85g • sugars 10g • ibre 9g • protein 20g • salt 1.4g
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generous pinch of salt and bring to a simmer. Boil for 2-3 mins until the dates are really soft, then tip into the blender, add the vanilla extract and blitz to a smooth purée. Add a little more salt if the mixture is too sweet. Pour over the nutty base and spread to the sides of the tin, getting the surface as smooth as possible. Chill while you prepare the topping. 3 Gently heat the coconut oil in a saucepan until melted. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cocoa and maple syrup until there are no lumps. Cool for 10 mins, pour over the caramel layer and return to the fridge for at least 3 hrs or until firmly set. To serve, cut into squares. Will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week. BENEFITS vegan • gluten-free PER BAR 373 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 20g • carbs 25g • sugars 20g • ibre 3g • protein 4g • salt none
Made-over millionaire’s bars
The new domestic goddess knows that you can use natural, nutrientrich ingredients to create delicious treats, such as these vegan, glutenfree bars. They’re just as sticky and moreish as the original versions.
Slow cooker muscovado cheesecake with hazelnuts & blackberries
MAKES 16 PREP 30 mins plus chilling COOK 5 mins MORE EFFORT
50g butter, melted, plus extra for greasing 225g oat biscuits (such as Hobnobs) 100g blanched hazelnuts 250g light muscovado sugar 4 tbsp full-fat milk 750g full-fat cream cheese 2 tbsp plain lour 1 tsp vanilla extract 3 large eggs 200ml pot soured cream 1 tbsp Frangelico (optional) 2 tsp corn lour 3 tbsp golden caster sugar 200g blackberries
For the base 150g cashew nuts 50g rolled oats 4 medjool dates, pitted 50g coconut oil, melted For the illing 350g pitted medjool dates 125ml unsweetened almond milk 25ml maple syrup 150g coconut oil 1 tsp vanilla extract For the topping 150g coconut oil 5 tbsp cocoa powder 2 tsp maple syrup
1 Grease a 20cm square cake tin and line with baking parchment. Tip the cashew nuts and oats into a food processer and blitz to crumbs. Add the dates and coconut oil, and blend again. Transfer to the tin and use a spoon to press the nutty mixture into a compact, even layer that covers the base. Chill while you prepare the filling. 2 For the filling, add the dates, almond milk, maple syrup and coconut oil to a saucepan with a 34 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
SERVES 10 PREP 30 mins plus cooling COOK 2 hrs MORE EFFORT
1 Boil the kettle and prepare your slow cooker (at least 22cm wide). Make a trivet for your cheesecake by scrunching a long piece of foil into a sausage. Roll into a loose coil and put on the bottom of the slow cooker. Turn the slow cooker to high and pour in enough hot water to come 4 cm up the sides. Wrap the outside of a 20cm springform cake tin in two layers of cling film and then foil – make sure there are no gaps for water to seep in. Grease the inside with butter, line with cling film and grease again, then line the base and sides with baking parchment.
2 Tip the biscuits and 50g hazelnuts into a food processer and blitz to fine crumbs. Add the butter and blend again until well combined. Tip the crumbs into the tin – use a spoon to press into the base. Chill for 10 mins. 3 In a saucepan, heat the muscovado and milk until the sugar has dissolved. Set aside to cool. In a bowl, beat the cream cheese, flour, vanilla and eggs until smooth. Stir in the soured cream, Frangelico (if using) and cooled sugar mixture until well combined. Pour into the tin and carefully put it in the slow cooker. Wrap the lid in a tea towel to prevent condensation from dripping onto the cheesecake. Cover and cook for 2 hrs, then turn off the slow cooker. Leave the cheesecake inside without opening for another 2 hrs. Remove from the slow cooker and cool at room temperature for a further 1 hr, then chill for 4 hrs, or overnight. 4 Put the cornflour, caster sugar and half the blackberries in a saucepan and set over a high heat. Cook for 3-4 mins, squashing the blackberries a little, until syrupy. Toss in the remaining berries, heat through, then remove from the heat and cool until you’re ready to serve. Roughly chop the remaining nuts and toast in a frying pan. 5 To serve, carefully remove the cheesecake from the tin, remove the baking parchment and transfer to a plate or cake stand. Top with the berries and hazelnuts, and serve with a shot of Frangelico, if you like. PER SERVING 612 kcals • fat 39g • saturates 19g • carbs 52g • sugars 40g • ibre 3g • protein 10g • salt 0.8g
No slow cooker? No problem You can also bake this cheesecake. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and boil the kettle. Create a foil trivet and put in a deep roasting tin. Prep the tin and cheesecake as before and put it on the trivet. Fill the tin halfway with hot water and put on the middle shelf. Bake for 10 mins, then reduce the heat to 110C/90C fan/gas 1/4 and cook for 30 mins more. Turn off the oven but keep the door closed for 1 hr, then open the door slightly and cool for another 1 hr. Chill for 4 hrs, or overnight, before serving as above.
The very best baked cheesecakes have a creamy texture and a smooth, uncracked surface. Cooking a cheesecake in a bain marie (water bath) at a low and steady temperature helps to achieve these perfect results, so slow cookers are also ideally suited. If you don’t have one, don’t fret – you can also cook our cover recipe in the oven (see box, left). SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 35
Ever so slightly
Shot Top cupcake kits. A party game-changer. Fill with your favourite tipple. And top with prosecco flavour frosting. Please eat responsibly.
69 stores nationwide lakeland.co.uk
No-knead grape & rosemary focaccia Kneading dough helps to develop the gluten strands that give bread its bouncy texture. But a slow rise allows gluten to develop naturally, so there’s no need to knead. This sticky, wet dough helps to produce the air bubbles characteristic of focaccia. It’s great served warm with soft goat’s cheese. SERVES 8 10 PREP 10 mins plus rising and 10 hrs proving COOK 1 hr EASY
400g strong white bread lour 1 tsp fast-action dried yeast 4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for greasing 1 tbsp laky sea salt 200g red grapes 10 rosemary sprigs, roughly chopped goat’s cheese, to serve (optional)
1 Tip the flour, yeast, 1 tbsp olive oil and 1 tsp salt into a large bowl. Add 250ml warm water and mix with a wooden spoon to make a sticky dough. Cover with cling film and put in the fridge for at least 10 hrs, or up to 24 hrs. 2 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Toss the grapes in 1 tbsp olive oil in a roasting tin. Bake for 20 mins or until shriveled, then set aside to cool. 3 When the dough has doubled in size and is bubbly, remove from the fridge and leave at room temperature for 1 hr. Oil a 23cm square roasting tin and scrape the dough in. Oil your hands, then fold the dough in on itself like an envelope. Turn the tin and repeat to create a square shape, then flip so that the folds are underneath. Scatter the rosemary, grapes and remaining salt over and drizzle with 2 tbsp oil. Use your fingertips to create dimples in the dough, pressing in the toppings and spreading the dough to the corners. Cover with cling film and leave to rise for 1 hr or until almost doubled in size. Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 at least 20 mins before you cook the bread. 4 Uncover the dough, drizzle with the remaining oil and bake on the middle shelf for 30 mins until golden brown. Cool for 10 mins in the tin before transferring to a wire rack, or eat warm. BENEFITS vegan (excluding goat’s cheese) PER SERVING (10) 203 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 33g • sugars 3g • ibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 1.5g
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Most decent pasta recipes will instruct you to reserve some of the cooking water to stir into your sauce at the end of cooking. The starch in the water helps the sauce to cling to the pasta and gives it more body. This recipe takes this idea one step further, cooking the pasta and sauce all in one pan. What you get is a silky sauce and perfectly cooked pasta – and only one pan to wash up! SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
400g spaghetti 3 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced 1 /2 fennel, halved and very thinly sliced 75g nduja or sobrasada paste (see box, right) 200g tomatoes (the best you can get), chopped into chunks 75g black olives, pitted and sliced 2 tsp tomato purée 3 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle
2 tsp red wine vinegar 40g pecorino, plus extra to serve handful basil, torn
1 Boil the kettle. Put all the ingredients except the pecorino and basil in a wide saucepan or deep frying pan and season well. Pour over 800ml kettle-hot water and bring to a simmer, using your tongs to ease the spaghetti under the liquid as it starts to soften. 2 Simmer, uncovered, for 10-12 mins, tossing the spaghetti through the liquid every so often until it is cooked and the sauce is reduced and clinging to it. Add a splash more hot water if the sauce is too thick or does not cover the pasta while it cooks. Turn up the heat for the final few mins to drive off the excess liquid, leaving you with a rich sauce. Stir through the pecorino and basil, and serve with an extra drizzle of oil and pecorino on the side. BENEFITS ibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 608 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 7g • carbs 72g • sugars 4g • ibre 7g • protein 20g • salt 1.4g
Low ’n’ slow rib steak with Cuban mojo salsa Cooking an expensive steak can cause even the most experienced of chefs to sweat. To ensure great results every time, most restaurants cook their steaks in sous vides (temperature-controlled water baths), which heat the meat to the ideal temperature, meaning it will never overcook. You can get the same results at home with this low & slow method – steak heaven without the stress! SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 3 hrs 20 mins MORE EFFORT
1 rib steak on the bone or côte du boeuf (about 800g) 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 garlic clove 2 thyme sprigs 25g butter, chopped into small pieces sweet potato fries (for a recipe visit bbcgoodfood.com) and a dressed salad, to serve
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Nduja, a spicy, spreadable salami paste from Calabria, in Italy, is available at ocado.com and from delis. Sobrasada, which is the Spanish equivalent, has the lavour of chorizo. Find it in selected Sainsbury’s or delis. Or you can use inely chopped chorizo instead.
For the mojo salsa 2 limes 1 small orange 1 /2 small bunch mint, inely chopped small bunch coriander, inely chopped 4 spring onions, inely chopped 1 small garlic clove, crushed 1 fat green chilli, inely chopped 4 tbsp extra virgin rapeseed or olive oil
1 Leave the beef at room temperature for about 1 hr before you cook it. Heat oven to 60C/40C fan/gas 1/4 if you like your beef medium rare, or 65C/45C fan/gas 1/4 for medium. (Cooking at these low temperatures will be more accurate in an electric oven than in a gas one. If using gas, put the oven on the lowest setting you have, and be aware that the cooking time may be shorter.) 2 Put the unseasoned beef in a heavy-based ovenproof frying pan. Cook in the middle of the oven for 3 hrs undisturbed. 3 Meanwhile, make the salsa. Zest the limes and orange into a bowl. Cut each in half and place, cut-side down, in a hot pan. Cook for a few
mins until the fruits are charred, then squeeze the juice into the bowl. Add the other ingredients and season well. 4 When the beef is cooked, it should look dry on the surface, and dark pink in colour. If you have a meat thermometer, test the internal temperature – it should be 58-60C. Remove the pan from the oven and set over a high heat on the hob. Add the oil and sear the meat on both sides for a few mins until caramelised. Sear the fat for a few mins too. Smash the garlic clove with the heel of your hand and add this to the pan with the thyme and butter. When the butter is foaming, spoon it over the beef and cook for another 1-2 mins. Transfer the beef to a warm plate, cover with foil, and leave to rest for 5-10 mins. Carve away from the bone and into slices before serving with the salsa, fries and salad. BENEFITS vit c • iron • gluten free PER SERVING 1,001 kcals • fat 75g • saturates 22g • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • ibre 1g • protein 76g • salt 0.7g
Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling SARAH BIRKS
One-pan spaghetti with nduja, fennel & olives
Good Food’s contributing editor Tom Kerridge is chef-owner of The Hand & Flowers and The Coach pub – both in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. Every month he creates exclusive new seasonal recipes for us. @ChefTomKerridge
Tom’s seasonal kitchen Make the most of late summer’s rich pickings with these new recipes from the BBC chef photographs PETER CASSIDY
Sweetcorn beignets, p46 42 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Swiss chard gratin, p46
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Blueberry brunch clafoutis I’ve used blueberries instead of the traditional cherries, which have a very short season – plus you don’t have the hassle of stoning blueberries! Adding candied bacon is a spin on the American brunch pancakes, but you can serve without as a dessert if you prefer. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT
70ml maple syrup, plus extra to serve 125ml red wine 250g blueberries 2 eggs, plus 4 egg yolks 100g golden caster sugar 250ml double cream 50ml kirsch 50g plain lour 6 rashers streaky dry-cure bacon 11/2 tbsp icing sugar crème fraîche, to serve (optional)
1 In a saucepan, bring the maple syrup and wine to the boil. Put the blueberries in a large bowl, pour the mix over and leave to cool. In another large bowl, whisk the eggs, yolks and sugar together, then whisk in the cream and kirsch, followed by the flour. Leave to stand for a few mins – the mixture should be the consistency of pancake batter. 2 While the batter rests, lay the bacon on a wire rack over a roasting tin and dust with icing sugar. Bake at 180C/160C fan/gas 4 for 25 mins or until crisp. Divide the blueberries and their sauce between six shallow ceramic dishes, then pour over the batter. Cook in the same oven as the bacon for 25 mins until puffed up and slightly golden. Serve with the candied bacon, a drizzle of maple syrup and crème fraîche, if you like. PER SERVING 540 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 17g • carbs 41g • sugars 33g • ibre 1g • protein 11g • salt 1.0g
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Rack of venison, roasted carrots & forager sauce SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 45
Swiss chard gratin
Serve these as a snack or canapé with the salsa for dipping, or as a side dish with steak or roast chicken. They also make a good brunch dish, with eggs, bacon or smashed avocado.
Pickling the chard first gives it a very deep, robust flavour. This would go really well alongside my venison dish (right), but also with a meaty fish like turbot or halibut cooked on the bone. You can save the pickling liquor in the fridge to pickle other vegetables.
MAKES 20 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins MORE EFFORT
3 sweetcorn cobs, cooked, kernels sliced off 200g tapioca lour 150g polenta 1 /2 tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 /4 tsp garlic powder 1 /4 tsp chilli lakes 1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted 330ml cider sun lower oil, for frying laky sea salt, to serve For the salsa 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 2 medium courgettes, inely diced 1 green chilli, diced 1 garlic clove, grated 1 green tomato, diced 1 tsp chopped coriander juice 1 lime
1 First, make the salsa. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a mediumhigh heat and fry the courgettes for about 3 mins until lightly coloured. Remove from the pan and mix with the chilli, garlic, tomato and coriander while the courgettes are still hot. Leave to cool, then finish with the lime juice and some seasoning. Set aside. 2 In a food processor, whizz a third of the corn kernels to a purée. Transfer to a large bowl and combine with the tapioca, polenta, bicarb, spices and some seasoning, then whisk in the cider. Tip in the remaining sweetcorn and give everything a stir to make a batter. 3 Heat a deep-fat fryer to 180C or until a piece of bread browns in 20 secs, or fill a large, heavy-based saucepan with oil. Working in batches, deep-fry large spoonfuls of the batter for 1-2 mins or until golden, then remove with a slotted spoon onto a baking tray lined with kitchen paper. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt and serve with the salsa. BENEFITS vegetarian • good for you • gluten free PER BEIGNET 124 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 13g • sugars 2g • ibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.2g
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SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins plus cooling COOK 40 mins MORE EFFORT
400g Swiss chard 3 star anise 200g golden caster sugar 300g white wine vinegar 1 tbsp coriander seeds 1 tbsp white pepper 1 tbsp fennel seeds 300ml pot double cream 3 garlic cloves, grated 100g Gruyère, grated good pinch of cayenne pepper
1 To pickle the chard, put 400ml water in a large saucepan or sauté pan with the star anise, sugar and vinegar. Put the remaining spices in a cloth bag tied with string, add to the pan, bring to the boil, then drop in the chard, stalk first. Press the chard down in the pan and simmer for 3-4 mins – don’t worry if you can’t cover the leaves completely in the liquid, as they will wilt and become submerged while cooking. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool. 2 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Once cooled, remove the chard from the pickle mix and pat dry with a clean kitchen towel. Lay the chard in an A4-sized baking dish. In a bowl, whisk the cream and garlic together with some seasoning, then pour over the chard. Sprinkle over the cheese and cayenne pepper, and bake for 30 mins. BENEFITS vegetarian • calcium • folate • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 507 kcals • fat 49g • saturates 30g • carbs 7g • sugars 4g • ibre 1g • protein 10g • salt 1.0g
Rack of venison, roasted carrots & forager sauce I serve venison all year round as it’s such a lean meat, but this dinner party roast definitely has a touch of autumn about it with the star anise, roasted carrots and blackberries in the sauce. SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 2 hrs 30 mins MORE EFFORT
8 medium carrots, washed and peeled 4 star anise 100g butter 12 juniper berries 1 tsp dried thyme 41/2 tbsp rapeseed oil 2 x 6-bone racks of venison, French trimmed 1 banana shallot, inely chopped 1 litre brown chicken stock 50ml sloe gin 150g blackberries
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Lay the carrots, star anise and butter in a roasting tin. Sprinkle with a little flaky salt and roast for 30 mins. While the carrots cook, crush the juniper berries using a pestle and mortar, then add 1 tsp salt, the thyme and 4 tbsp rapeseed oil. 2 Rub the mix all over the venison racks, then sear in a large, hot frying pan for 4 mins until they are evenly coloured all over. Lower the oven temperature to 60C/40C fan/gas 1/4, put the racks on top of the carrots, bone-side up, and roast for 2 hrs. At this low temperature an electric oven will be more accurate (if using gas, check regularly). 3 Meanwhile, make the sauce. Fry the shallot in the remaining oil in a saucepan over a medium heat until softened. In a separate saucepan, reduce the stock to 300ml, then pour it over the shallot with the sloe gin. Bring to a simmer and reduce slightly. Stir in the blackberries in the final few mins to heat through, then serve. BENEFITS ibre • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 510 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 9g • carbs 12g • sugars 11g • ibre 7g • protein 49g • salt 1.0g
Baked cauliflower in garlic butter SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 47
Frozen blackberry yogurt So simple, so seasonal – a great late-summer treat. SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins plus freezing NO COOK
Toss together 200g blackberries and 40g golden caster sugar in a large bowl. Leave for 30 mins or until the fruit starts to break down, then mash the berries a little with a fork. In a separate bowl, mix 300g Greek yogurt with 50ml honey and 100ml goat’s milk. Spoon the yogurt mixture into a freezable container, then tip the berries on top and swirl them through. Freeze for 2 hrs, then give a little stir and return to the freezer to firm up. Take out of the freezer a few mins before serving to soften for scooping. BENEFITS freezable • gluten free PER SERVING 208 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 6g • carbs 26g • sugars 26g • ibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.2g
Baked cauliflower in garlic butter SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 30 mins EASY
Fruit & veg O Apples O Aubergines O Autumn raspberries O Beetroot O Blackberries O Blueberries O Carrots O Cauli lower O Chillies O Cobnuts O Cucumbers O Damsons O Fennel O Figs O Grapes O Hazelnuts O Marrows O Pears O Peppers O Plums O Pumpkins O Shallots
Spinach Squash O Sweetcorn O Swiss chard O Tomatoes O Walnuts O Watercress O Wild mushrooms O O
Fish & seafood O Brown crab O Cornish sardines O Mackerel O Mussels O Sea bass O Squid Meat O Goose O Partridge O Venison O Wild duck O Wood pigeon
48 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
BENEFITS vegetarian • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 288 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 16g • carbs 7g • sugars 4g • ibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 0.6g
Tom will appear in a new BBC show about fast food early next year. He will also be cooking live at our three big winter BBC Good Food Shows: Glasgow SECC (4 6 Nov), London Olympia (11 13 Nov) and Birmingham NEC (24 27 Nov). To book tickets, visit bbcgoodfoodshows.com. All readers get a discount on tickets – ind out more on page 3.
Food styling LISA HARRISON Styling LUIS PERAL
At their best now
Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Beat 125g softened salted butter with 4 grated garlic cloves, 1/2 tsp chopped thyme and 1/2 tsp rosemary in a bowl. Remove and discard the leaves from 1 medium cauliflower. Lay a large sheet of foil on a baking tray and put the cauliflower in the middle. Spread the butter all over it. Draw up the sides of the foil to make a parcel. Put in the oven for 1 hr 20 mins-1 hr 30 mins. When cooked, carve wedges of garlicky roasted cauliflower – it’s great as a side with a Sunday roast.
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PRESERVE THE SEASON
Plum chutney Naturally sweet, summer plums make a gorgeous, sticky preserve recipe KYLEE NEWTON photograph MYLES NEW
Plum & preserved lemon chutney If you find the dried fruit in traditional chutney overly sweet, you’ll love the sharp bite of preserved lemon in this recipe. MAKES 4 x 250ml jars PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 15 mins EASY
for 45 mins-1 hr until it becomes thick, sticky and jam-like, and has reduced by a third. 4 Remove from the heat, ladle into the warm, dry sterilised jars and seal while the chutney is still hot. Will keep, sealed, for up to 1 year; once opened, store in the fridge and eat within 6 months. BENEFITS vegan • low fat • gluten free
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling LUIS PERAL
1kg plums, washed, stoned and cut into bite-sized pieces 320g red onions, diced 350ml red wine vinegar 250g golden granulated sugar 70g preserved lemons, skin only, chopped into small pieces 1 /2 tsp each ground cinnamon and ground peppercorns 1 /4 tsp each ground mace, ground mixed spice and grated nutmeg
PER TBSP 15 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • ibre none • protein none • salt 0.1g
1 Heat oven to 120C/100C fan/gas 1/2. Sterilise your jars and lids by washing in hot, soapy water and rinsing thoroughly. Drip-dry upside down, then put in the oven for at least 20 mins. 2 Weigh the chopped plum flesh so you have approximately 750g and set aside. Put the onions in a large, wide pan over a high heat with the vinegar and sugar. Once boiling, lower the heat and gently simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 15 mins until the onions soften and become glossy. 3 Add the preserved lemons along with the plums, spices and 1 tsp sea salt. Bring back to the boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and stir so it doesn’t catch on the bottom and burn. Reduce the chutney SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 51
Figs The honeyed flavour of late-summer figs works well in both sweet and savoury dishes recipes DIANA HENRY photographs PETER CASSIDY
Quails with figs & walnut sauce 52 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Rye pizza with figs, fennel, Gorgonzola & hazelnuts SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 53
Good Food’s contributing editor Diana Henry is an award-winning food writer. Her tenth book, Simple (£25, Mitchell Beazley), is out this month. Each month she showcases a seasonal ingredient. @ DianaHenryFood
Figs seduce with the promise of lusciousness, their skin so soft you want to stroke it before biting into it. But often they don’t deliver. This is partly because their moment of perfect ripeness is fleeting; even when the skin is perfect, the flesh can be dry. Whatever variety you’re eating (skin colour ranges from green to almost black), you want sweetness, but not a cloying sweetness. Figs are never tart. There is no balance of sweetness and sharpness the way there is in an apple, but if the flesh is at the right point of ripeness, there’s a freshness that stops the sweetness being sickly. Ripe figs are like good dessert wine: honeyed, mouth-filling, but not saccharine. Figs are fragile little things. Picked when ripe and transported to a market or a greengrocer nearby and you have every reason to expect fig nirvana. But put them on a truck in Italy or Spain bound for the UK and things are unlikely to end as well. (You might be lucky enough to have your own fig tree – I’m always thrilled when I find one here. It doesn’t just mean figs for eating, it can mean fig leaf ice cream or fig leaf wine.) Wherever they come from, when you get sweet and musky figs, with interiors so red they look as if they’ve been painted, you’re hooked again. It’s a cliché to say that figs should be treated simply, but it’s true. They’re great with ham, chalky goat’s cheeses and soft blues. For pudding, serve them with raspberries – they give figs a tartness that makes them sing. But I’m a cook, and cooks like to cook. Plus, heat helps to bring out the honeyed-ness in unpromising fruits. I love sweet and savoury together, so I put figs with pork chops, duck, lamb and (as here) quail, often using something sweet or sweet-sour as a bridge – port, sherry, Marsala, balsamic vinegar, pomegranate molasses or honey. Figs are perfect in September. Get them before they disappear. 54 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Fig & raspberry crumble cake Very simple and with lots of juicy fruit, this can be served at teatime or as a pudding. SERVES 8 PREP 30 mins COOK 1 hr 15 mins EASY
100g butter, softened, plus extra for greasing 150g golden caster sugar 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 1 /2 tsp vanilla extract 125g plain lour 75g ground almonds (preferably freshly ground) 1 tsp baking powder 100g natural yogurt 7 large igs 175g raspberries 30g laked almonds crème fraîche, to serve For the crumble topping 50g lour 25g cold butter, cut into cubes 35g soft light brown sugar
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Grease and line the base of a 20cm springform cake tin. Make the crumble topping by rubbing the flour and butter together with your fingertips until you have a crumbly mixture. Stir in the sugar. 2 For the cake, cream the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Add the egg, a little at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the vanilla. Sift the flour and add the almonds and baking powder. Fold in 1 large tbsp of the flour mixture into the batter, then add the rest, alternating with the yogurt. 3 Snip the stalks off the figs. Halve four of them and chop the rest. Stir the chopped figs and one-third of the raspberries into the batter, then scrape into the prepared tin. Lay the halved figs on top and sprinkle on half the remaining raspberries. Scatter on the crumble, then the rest of the raspberries, then the flaked almonds. 4 Bake in the oven for 1 hr 15 mins or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean (check it after 1 hr). Leave in the tin for about 15 mins, then run a palette knife around the outside of the cake, carefully unclasp the surround, remove the base and the parchment, and slide the cake onto a serving plate. Serve with crème fraîche. BENEFITS ibre PER SERVING 517 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 9g • carbs 65g • sugars 48g • ibre 6g • protein 10g • salt 0.6g
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 55
MAKES 2 x 30cm pizzas PREP 1 hr plus 2 3 hrs rising COOK 45 mins MORE EFFORT
For the dough 5g active dried yeast 250g strong white lour 125g ‘00’ lour 125g rye lour 1 /2 tsp sugar 1 tsp olive oil semolina lour, for dusting For the topping 1 large fennel bulb, any fronds reserved juice 1/2 small lemon 1 tbsp olive oil 2 medium onions, halved and very inely sliced 1 /4 tsp fennel seeds, coarsely crushed in a mortar a little extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling 12 small igs, halved 11/2 tbsp balsamic vinegar a little caster sugar, for sprinkling 180g Gorgonzola (or vegetarian alternative), broken into chunks 2 tbsp hazelnuts, halved and toasted
Quails with figs & walnut sauce SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins plus overnight marinating COOK 45 mins MORE EFFORT
2 bay leaves, crumbled 4 thyme sprigs, leaves picked inely grated zest 1/2 small lemon 4 tbsp brandy 135ml extra virgin olive oil 12 quails 50g butter, cut into 12 small pieces 350ml dry vermouth 9 igs, stems snipped off and halved lengthways 2 tbsp honey 11/2 tbsp balsamic vinegar 500ml chicken stock For the walnut sauce 3 large garlic cloves 80g walnuts 150ml walnut oil 1 tbsp inely chopped lat-leaf parsley
56 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
1 To make the dough, mix the yeast in a small bowl with 2 tbsp warm water and 1 tbsp strong white flour. Leave somewhere warm to ‘sponge’ for 20 mins or so (this dissolves and activates the yeast). Tip the three flours into a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Pour in the sponged yeast, 1 tsp salt, sugar, oil and 290ml warm water, and mix to form a wet dough. Knead for 10 mins until satiny and elastic, then put in a clean bowl, cover with a cloth and leave to double in size for 21/2-3 hrs. 2 Quarter the fennel bulb lengthways and remove any tough outer leaves. Trim the base of each, thinly slice with a knife or mandolin, then put in a bowl with the lemon juice so it doesn’t turn brown. 3 Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the onions and a pinch of salt, and fry over a medium heat for 7 mins. Add 1-2 tbsp of water, season with pepper, cover and cook on a low heat for 10 mins until softened. Add most of the fennel, along with the fennel seeds and seasoning, and cook for 3 mins, stirring every so often. If the mixture is still wet, uncover and bubble off any liquid. 4 An hour before cooking, heat the oven to its highest setting and put
a baking sheet or pizza stone in to heat. Tip the dough onto a lightly floured surface, knead it a little, then halve and roll each piece into a circle or rough square. Lift the dough and, while rotating, stretch with your fingertips until each piece is 30-32cm across and as thin as possible with a slightly thicker edge. 5 Sprinkle two large baking sheets with semolina and put the pizza bases on them. Top each base with the cooked onion and fennel mix, then the pieces of raw fennel, leaving a 3cm border. Drizzle with a little olive oil. Put the halved figs on top and spoon on a little balsamic vinegar and a sprinkle of sugar. Grind over some pepper. Carefully slide the first pizza onto the heated baking sheet in the oven. Bake for 8-12 mins until the dough is golden and the figs caramelised. Halfway through the cooking time, dot the pizza with the cheese. Scatter on the toasted hazelnuts and any reserved fennel fronds. Repeat with the second pizza.
1 To make a marinade, mix the herbs, lemon zest, brandy, seasoning and 6 tbsp olive oil in a large dish. Season the birds and spoon some marinade into the cavities. Roll them in the rest of the marinade, then cover and chill overnight. 2 For the walnut sauce, whizz the garlic and walnuts together with a little salt in a small food processor until finely chopped. Add the oil in a thin stream, as though you’re making a mayonnaise. Stir in 2 tbsp warm water. Season with pepper, add the parsley and set aside. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. To cook the quail, wipe any herbs from the breast area. Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan and, when really hot, quickly brown the birds all over, in batches, colouring but not cooking the meat. 4 Put a piece of butter inside each bird and put them into a roasting tin. Roast in the oven for 15-20 mins, depending on whether you like the meat to be a little pink, adding a quarter of the vermouth after
10 mins. Put the figs in a small gratin dish in a single layer. Drizzle with the honey and balsamic, then season. Roast for 20 mins, alongside the quail, basting during cooking. The figs should be dark and tender but holding their shape. Cover to keep warm and set aside. 5 Put the quail on a warm platter and cover. Put the roasting tin on the hob over a high heat. Add the rest of the vermouth, bring to the boil and bubble until there’s 150ml left. Add the stock and boil until you have a slightly syrupy sauce, enough for 2 tbsp per serving of quail. Put two birds on each plate and spoon over the reduced sauce. Serve with three fig halves each and the walnut sauce.
BENEFITS vegetarian • calcium • folate • ibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 698 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 6g • carbs 109g • sugars 46g • ibre 16g • protein 19g • salt 1.9g
BENEFITS ibre • iron PER SERVING 1,097 kcals • fat 74g • saturates 16g • carbs 39g • sugars 39g • ibre 7g • protein 50g • salt 0.8g
Next month Diana creates comforthing puff pastry dishes
Food styling SARA BUENFELD Styling LUIS PERAL
Rye pizza with figs, fennel, Gorgonzola & hazelnuts
Just like Prosciutto di San Daniele and Grana Padano cheese, true taste and real origins simply cannot be imitated. That is why the European Union created the Protected Designation of Origin scheme. PDO makes regional specialities with centuries of tradition easier to ���������Ǥ���������������������������������������ϔ������ of these unique delicacies, look for the PDO logo. Follow our tradition at www.granapadano.it www.prosciuttosandaniele.it
CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION AND ITALY.
Proud carriers of the PDO logo.
BEHIND THE HEADLINES
Supermarket fruit & veg Most of our fresh produce isn’t a patch on our European neighbours’ – and the big retailers are to blame, argues Joanna Blythman
n Britain we’re encouraged incessantly to eat more fruit and vegetables, yet our consumption has actually dropped. We always trailed well down the European league for eating our greens, but the latest research for the National Farmers’ Union shows that this pattern is more marked than ever: fruit sales fell 14 per cent and veg sales five per cent between 2007 and 2014. And I’m not surprised. All too often the produce on sale here is unappealing and off-puttingly expensive. Of course, when you can get your hands on fresh, seasonal British produce, it can compete with the equivalent on sale further afield. Scottish raspberries, for example, can trump the Spanish equivalent. English asparagus can be sensational. It’s hard to beat a firm head of British cauliflower, or a freshly picked English apple. But anyone who travels abroad cannot help but be struck by the overall unfavourable contrast between the fruit and vegetable selection in other countries, and what’s on offer here. I used to think that shopping for fruit and vegetables dutifully, rather than enthusiastically, was an unfortunate consequence of living in a Northern European country, until I spent time living in Amsterdam in winter. I discovered that the produce in Holland is fresher, more varied and, most importantly, much cheaper than in the UK. There are lots more outlets there too, with plenty of independent greengrocers and markets. Our problem here in the UK isn’t our climate, it’s our supermarkets. They charge too much for produce that isn’t fresh, ripe or particularly good, and focus on a handful of commercial varieties that don’t reflect nature’s biodiversity. The most common variety of strawberry on sale at the height of the season is still the relatively tasteless variety,
Elsanta. At £2 for a smallish pack, is it any wonder that people get fed up of forking out for such lacklustre berries? Lemons in Spain, France or Italy are large, often fragrant and full of juice. Here they’re small, full of pips and pretty dry. Like so many other supermarket fruits – nectarines, plums, mangoes, peaches – UK chains have instructed their suppliers to pick them ‘green and backward’ (as it’s known in the trade) to extend their shelf life. Supermarkets have also remodelled our vegetables to suit their selling requirements. For instance, spinach in the UK generally means the watery baby variety, when large-leaf spinach has infinitely more taste and keeps better. Throughout Europe, it’s taken for granted that cucumber is sweet and crunchy. People there know that goodtasting celery is yellowywhite, but UK chains fill shelves with the green fibrous sort, which has an aggressive flavour. When they do sell more varied produce to a standard many of us expect – for example, Swiss chard and purple sprouting broccoli – big retailers sell it for a premium that most people can’t or won’t pay. As any good greengrocer knows, you drive sales by offering seasonal abundance and affordability. Currently, the hunt for produce that fits the bill starts outside the supermarket.
Portrait ALAN PEEBLES | Illustration GEORGE BLETSIS
‘In the UK we’re charged too much for produce that isn’t fresh or ripe’
Good Food contributing editor Joanna is an award-winning food journalist who has written on the subject for 25 years. She is also a regular contributor on BBC Radio 4. @joannablythman Next month Joanna tackles food banks
Go local to get better produce O Sign up for
home deliveries Check out local box schemes such as Farmdrop, Rafters and Fresh Range, which connect consumers more directly with producers. Find one near you at thefoodassembly. com. O Shop at markets
Stalls at traditional and farmers’ markets showcase produce at its seasonal peak. They’re often cheaper than supermarkets and use less packaging. O Love your
greengrocer Cherish any independent greengrocer. Shops run by irst- and second-generation immigrants often carry a well-priced, varied selection. Let us know what you think. Send your comments to hello@bbcgoodfood magazine.com
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 59
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September survival guide Back to work? New term starting? Or just stuck in a recipe rut? Transform all your family meals with our collection of quick, easy and exciting recipes for this busy time of year recipes CHELSIE COLLINS photographs TOM REGESTER
Snack attack New ideas to pep up packed lunches
For kids aged 4 8
You’re a star sarnies
SERVES 1 PREP 15 mins NO COOK
SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
Use a star-shaped cutter to stamp out three bread stars from 2 slices wholemeal bread (freeze the off-cuts to make breadcrumbs). Swirl 1 tsp red pesto through 1/2 tbsp cream cheese and spread onto both sides of the stars. Close, wrap in cling film and chill in the fridge if making the night before.
Dollop 80ml natural yogurt into an airtight container. Blend or mash 25g strawberries to a purée and swirl through the yogurt. Top with 10g mixed berries.
PER SERVING 81 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 2g • carbs 6g • sugars 1g • ibre 1g • protein 2g • salt 0.3g
64 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
BENEFITS vegetarian • low fat • calcium • gluten free PER SERVING 77 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 2g • carbs 8g • sugars 8g • ibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 0.2g
Add these extras 1 baby cucumber cut into chunks and 2 tbsp houmous in a small pot.
BLT pasta salad SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
25g pasta bows 2 cooked crispy bacon rashers, broken into pieces 15g spinach, chopped 6 cherry tomatoes, halved 1 /2 tbsp crème fraîche 1 /4 tsp wholegrain mustard
The night before school, cook the pasta following pack instructions and run under cold water to cool quickly. Mix in the bacon, spinach, tomatoes, crème fraiche and mustard, and season with a little salt. Spoon into an airtight container and keep overnight in the fridge. BENEFITS folate • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 332 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 5g • carbs 35g • sugars 12g • ibre 5g • protein 18g • salt 1.5g
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling WEI TANG
Ages 9 12
eat well every day
Teenagers’ munchbox Choco-dipped tangerines SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
Peel 1 tangerine and dip half of each segment in 10g melted dark chocolate, then put on a baking sheet lined with parchment. Keep in the fridge for 1 hr to set completely, or overnight if you prefer. BENEFITS vegetarian • vit c PER SERVING 99 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 2g • carbs 13g • sugars 12g • ibre 2g • protein 1g • salt none
Add these extras Some edamame beans and 1/2 a small banana.
Ages 13 16
Chicken taco salad
Sweet potato crisps
SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY
/4 tsp olive oil 2 tbsp low-fat soured cream 1 tsp white wine vinegar 1 Baby Gem lettuce, shredded 50g sweetcorn, drained 5 cherry tomatoes, halved 75g cooked BBQ chicken juice 1 lime 1 /2 small avocado, peeled and chopped 1 corn taco shell, broken into pieces
Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and slice 1/4 small sweet potato thinly. Toss with 1/2 tbsp olive oil and roast for 15-20 mins until crisp. Leave to cool.
1 Make the dressing by combining the oil, soured cream and vinegar. Keep in the fridge. 2 Put the lettuce, sweetcorn, tomatoes and chicken in a lunchbox. Stir the lime juice into the avocado and put on top. Pack the dressing on the side. 3 Scatter the taco over the salad to serve.
Put 12g unsweetened popcorn on a baking tray and drizzle over 15g melted dark chocolate. Put in the fridge to set for 5-10 mins or overnight.
BENEFITS folate • ibre • vit c • 4 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 421 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 4g • carbs 27g • sugars 16g • ibre 10g • protein 29g • salt 0.8g
BENEFITS vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 70 kcals • fat 2g • saturates none • carbs 12g • sugars 6g • ibre 2g • protein 1g • salt 0.1g
Chocolate-drizzled popcorn SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 3 mins EASY
PER SERVING 143 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 3g • carbs 13g • sugars 6g • ibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.2g
Add an extra 1/2 pear in the lunchbox.
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 65
Beetroot & onion seed soup SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY
Tip 250g cooked beetroot, 100g canned lentils, 1 small apple, 1 crushed garlic clove and 1 tsp onion (nigella) seeds into a blender with 250ml vegetable stock and some seasoning, and blitz until smooth. Heat until piping hot in the microwave or on the hob, then scatter over some extra onion seeds, if you like. BENEFITS vegetarian • freezable • low fat • folate • ibre • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 257 kcals • fat 2g • saturates none • carbs 41g • sugars 30g • ibre 10g • protein 12g • salt 1.2g
Super-speedy soups Whizz it, heat it, eat it! All these can be made in a bullet blender, then simply heat in a pan or the microwave until piping hot
Hot ‘n’ spicy roasted red pepper & tomato soup SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY
Put 290g drained, roasted red peppers in a blender with 270g halved cherry tomatoes, 1 crushed garlic clove, 1 vegetable stock cube, 100ml water, 1 tsp paprika, 1 tbsp olive oil and 4 tbsp ground almonds. Blitz until smooth, season well and heat until piping hot before serving. BENEFITS vegetarian • freezable • folate • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 631 kcals • fat 48g • saturates 5g • carbs 23g • sugars 12g • ibre 5g • protein 23g • salt 3.0g
66 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
eat well every day
Carrot & ginger immune-boosting soup SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY
Peel and chop 3 large carrots and put in a blender with 1 tbsp grated ginger, 1 tsp turmeric, a pinch of cayenne pepper, 20g wholemeal bread, 1 tbsp soured cream and 200ml vegetable stock. Blitz until smooth. Heat until piping hot. Swirl through some extra crème fraîche, or a sprinkling of cayenne, if you like. BENEFITS vegetarian • freezable • low fat • 1 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 223 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 3g • carbs 30g • sugars 19g • ibre 10g • protein 5g • salt 1.1g
Spinach & watercress soup SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY
Put 100g spinach, 100g watercress, 1 sliced spring onion, 100ml vegetable stock, 1/2 an avocado, 100g cooked rice, juice 1/2 lemon and 2 tbsp mixed seeds in a blender with seasoning. Whizz until smooth. Heat until piping hot. Scatter over some toasted seeds if you want added crunch. BENEFITS vegetarian • freezable • calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 457 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 5g • carbs 33g • sugars 2g • ibre 9g • protein 18g • salt 0.5g
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 67
Sesame stir-fry wrap
MAKES 1 PREP 5 mins NO COOK
Quick-to-make sandwiches that stay crunchy until lunchtime Keep your sarnie crisp by using raw stir-fry veg
Mix 2 tbsp tahini with juice 1/2 lemon and 1 tbsp water to form a paste. Spread on the base of 1 large wholemeal tortilla wrap with some seasoning. Scatter over 1/2 x 265g pack stir-fry vegetables and 1/2 tbsp sesame seeds. Roll up in a tight wrap and halve. BENEFITS vegan • calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER WRAP 511 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 6g • carbs 32g • sugars 6g • ibre 0g • protein 0g • salt 0.0g
Keep it green sandwich MAKES 1 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
Massage 25g curly kale in 1/2 tbsp sesame oil and 1/2 tbsp tamari for a few mins until softened, then set aside. Smash 1 small avocado with a fork in a bowl with juice 1 small lime, 40g drained chickpeas and some seasoning. Spread across 1 slice rye bread, lay the kale on top and sprinkle with 1/2 tsp paprika. Top with another slice of rye and halve.
Massaging the kale softens it
Making your own quick pickle adds tangy texture
BENEFITS vegan • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SANDWICH 443 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 5g • carbs 32g • sugars 2g • ibre 10g • protein 11g • salt 1.8g
Ham, cheese & homemade pickle bloomer MAKES 2 PREP 10 mins plus pickling NO COOK
Finely slice 1/2 red onion and 4 radishes and put in a small bowl with 2 tbsp red wine vinegar and a pinch of golden caster sugar and leave to lightly pickle for 20 mins. Mix 1 tbsp mayo with 1 tbsp Dijon or wholegrain mustard and spread onto 4 thick slices white bread. Top two slices with 1/2 x 130g pack smoked ham, handful fresh parsley and 2 large slices cheddar. Drain the onions and radishes and lay on top. Close and halve to serve. PER SANDWICH 527 kcals • fat 36g • saturates 14g • carbs 25g • sugars 4g • ibre 2g • protein 26g • salt 3.1g
Italian sub MAKES 2 PREP 5 mins NO COOK
Halve 2 x 135g ciabatta rolls and butter the bases, if you like. Lay 90g salami slices on top, 60g torn mozzarella, 2 tbsp torn basil, 10 sundried tomatoes and drizzle over 1 tbsp balsamic glaze. Close to serve. Swap fresh tomatoes for sundried to stop your sarnie going soggy
68 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
BENEFITS calcium PER SANDWICH 527 kcals • fat 36g • saturates 14g • carbs 25g • sugars 4g • ibre 2g • protein 26g • salt 3.1g
eat well every day
Al-desko lunches Simply layer your bowl using this equation: Grain + veg + protein + crunch factor + dressing in a pot = perfect al-desko lunching
Roasted cauli-broc bowl with tahini houmous SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins
400g pack cauli lower & broccoli lorets 2 tbsp olive oil 250g ready-to-eat quinoa 2 cooked beetroots, sliced large handful baby spinach 10 walnuts, toasted and chopped 2 tbsp tahini 3 tbsp houmous 1 lemon, 1/2 juiced, 1/2 cut into wedges
1 The night before, heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the cauliflower and broccoli in a large roasting tin with the oil and a sprinkle of flaky sea salt. Roast for 25-30 mins until browned and cooked. Leave to cool completely. 2 Build each bowl by putting half the quinoa in each. Lay the slices of beetroot on top, followed by the spinach, cauliflower, broccoli and walnuts. Combine the tahini, houmous, lemon juice and 1 tbsp water in a small pot. Before eating, coat in the dressing. Serve with the lemon wedges. BENEFITS vegan • folate • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • good for you • gluten free PER SERVING 533 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 4g • carbs 28g • sugars 6g • ibre 10g • protein 16g • salt 0.8g
Jerk chicken & mango bowl SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins
2 chicken breasts, cut into strips 2 tbsp jerk paste 1 tbsp olive oil 250g ready-to-eat lentils 4 spring onions, inely sliced 1 red chilli, inely sliced 1 /2 small bunch coriander, leaves only 1 mango, cubed 1 lime, cut into wedges 8 tbsp natural yogurt 4 tbsp mango chutney
1 The night before, heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Put the chicken in a roasting tin and rub with the jerk paste, olive oil and a little seasoning. Bake for 15 mins until it is cooked, then leave to cool. 2 Build each bowl by putting half the lentils, chicken, spring onions, chilli, coriander and mango in each, with lime wedges at the side. Put yogurt in a separate pot with the mango chutney swirled through. Coat in the yogurt dressing just before eating. BENEFITS calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 660 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 5g • carbs 66g • sugars 39g • ibre 11g • protein 54g • salt 3.3g
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 69
One-pot wonders Chicken, kale & mushroom pot pie SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 40 mins EASY
1 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, inely chopped 3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 2 garlic cloves, crushed 350g chicken breasts, cut into small chunks 250g chestnut mushrooms, sliced 300ml chicken stock 100g crème fraîche 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 100g kale 2 tsp corn lour, mixed with 1 tbsp cold water 375g pack puff pastry, rolled into a circle slightly bigger than your dish 1 egg yolk, to glaze
Satisfying suppers that will save on the washing-up, plus you can freeze leftovers for another day
1 Heat 1/2 tbsp oil over a gentle heat in a flameproof casserole dish. Add the onion and cook for 5 mins until softening. Scatter over the thyme and garlic, and stir for 1 min. Turn up the heat and add the chicken, frying until golden but not fully cooked. Add the mushrooms and the remaining oil. Heat oven to 200C/180 fan/gas 6. 2 Add the stock, crème fraiche, mustard and kale, and season well. Add the cornflour mixture and stir until thickened a little.
70 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
3 Remove from the heat and cover with the puff pastry lid, pressing into the sides of the casserole dish. Slice a cross in the centre and glaze with the egg. Bake for 30 mins until the pastry is puffed up and golden. BENEFITS freezable • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 673 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 20g • carbs 40g • sugars 6g • ibre 5g • protein 34g • salt 1.4g
eat well every day
Lamb meatball curry SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
For the meatballs 1 tbsp fennel seeds, toasted 2 garlic cloves, inely grated thumb-sized piece ginger, inely grated 2 green chillies, deseeded and inely chopped 1 onion, inely chopped 60g dessicated coconut 400g lamb mince For the curry sauce 1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, inely chopped 1 tsp grated ginger 1 tbsp garam masala 1 tsp turmeric 400g can chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp coconut yogurt 1 /2 small pack coriander, roughly chopped rice or naan, to serve
1 Put all the meatball ingredients in a large bowl and use your hands to combine everything together. Roll into about 16 balls, cover and chill until needed. 2 Heat the oil in a large, deep frying pan over a gentle heat and fry the onion, ginger and spices for 10 mins until the onions are softened. Tip in the tomatoes and a splash of water, and bring to the boil over a high heat. Drop in the meatballs and reduce the heat. Cover and simmer for 15 mins or until the meatballs are cooked. Mix through the yogurt, scatter over the coriander and serve with rice or naan bread. BENEFITS freezable • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 408 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 16g • carbs 12g • sugars 9g • ibre 5g • protein 23g • salt 0.2g
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 71
Quintessentially British with a touch of French dressing, the Bailiwick of Guernsey is the ideal Island getaway, where you can unplug and unwind. Visit in Autumn for our International Food Festival, followed by Tennerfest, when three course meals start from £10. Flights from just 30 minutes, ferry crossing 3 hours from the UK.
Uncork the perfect short break today, search: ‘Food Festival Guernsey’
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Stay: 2 to 3 1LJKW2ø HU 2 or 3 nights from £110pp Full buffet and cooked breakfast. Our Tennerfest 3 Course Evening Dinner RQWKHoUVWQLJKWLQRXU Gold Award Restaurant ‘The Lobster and Grill’.
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Plan your break at visitguernsey.com T&C’s may apply. Please refer to the suppliers directly for details on promotions.
eat well every day
L E A TH
Following our summer healthy diet plan? Here’s a spicy meat-free supper to add to your recipe collection
recipe SARA BUENFELD photograph MIKE ENGLISH
Spicy cauli lower rice with minty cucumber raita SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
Food styling SARA BUENFELD Styling SARAH BIRKS
85g brown basmati rice 1 tsp ground turmeric 2 tsp ground coriander seeds from 6 cardamom pods 1 tbsp inely chopped fresh ginger 2 bay leaves 1 red chilli, deseeded and inely chopped 2 tsp reduced-salt vegetable bouillon (wheat free if you’re gluten free) 25g creamed coconut, chopped 400g can chickpeas (no need to drain) 200g cauli lower lorets, broken into bite-sized pieces 1 red pepper, cut into chunks 1 red onion, cut into thin wedges 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 /2 tsp cumin seeds For the minty cucumber raita 150ml pot live bio yogurt 1 /4 cucumber, coarsely grated 1 /2 small pack mint, leaves chopped, a few left whole
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the rice in a sauté pan with the turmeric, coriander, cardamom, ginger, bay leaves and chilli. Pour in 300ml water and add the bouillon and creamed coconut. Bring to the boil, cover the pan and leave to simmer for 15 mins. Add the chickpeas with their liquid (and a little more water if necessary), then cook, covered, for 10 mins more. 2 Meanwhile, toss the cauliflower, red pepper and onion in the oil with the cumin seeds. Spread out on a baking sheet and roast for 20 mins until the vegetables are tender and a little charred around the edges. 3 While the cauliflower and rice cook, make the raita by mixing together the yogurt, cucumber and chopped mint.
4 When the cauliflower and rice are tender (the stock should be absorbed by now), toss the two together, scatter with the mint leaves and serve with the raita on the side. BENEFITS vegetarian • calcium • folate • ibre • vit C • iron • 4 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 588 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 7g • carbs 73g • sugars 18g • ibre 14g • protein 23g • salt 0.2g
To follow our summer healthy diet plan, visit bbcgoodfood.com
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 73
Make it easy Brand-new meals to liven up your midweek repertoire recipes KATY GREENWOOD photographs MIKE ENGLISH
Chinese chicken with pancakes A twist on a favourite takeaway, this dish is perfect for a Friday night in. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 50 mins EASY
5 tbsp hoisin sauce, plus extra to serve 2 tbsp plum sauce 1 tbsp honey 1 tbsp rice vinegar 8 chicken thighs, skin on 20 Chinese pancakes (available from Waitrose, Asian supermarkets or Chinese takeaways) 1 cucumber, cut into quarters lengthways, then into matchsticks bunch spring onions, cut in half lengthways, then into matchsticks
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Mix the hoisin, plum sauce, honey and rice vinegar, then season with a little salt. Arrange the chicken in a roasting tin and brush over half the sauce. Roast for 25 mins, then spread over the remaining sauce and roast for another 25 mins. 2 Once the chicken is cooked, steam the pancakes following pack instructions. Shred the chicken, then drizzle over the pan juices and serve with the pancakes, cucumber, spring onions and extra hoisin sauce to spread over. BENEFITS freezable (chicken only) • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 461 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 4g • carbs 42g • sugars 12g • ibre 3g • protein 30g • salt 1.2g
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eat well every day
Gluten and dairy free £2.60 per serving
Uses storecupboard ingredients £2.23 per serving
Fishcakes with lime & coconut The shaped, uncooked fishcakes will keep, covered in the fridge, for up to 24 hours, then simply fry to serve for a speedy weeknight meal. Alternatively, you can freeze them. Defrost fully in the fridge before frying until hot through. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
4 salmon illets 2 tbsp coconut oil (or other oil of your choice) plus 1 tsp 150g gluten-free bread, blitzed into breadcrumbs 1 large shallot, inely chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and inely chopped zest 2 limes, juice of 1/2 50g gluten-free lour 2 large eggs, beaten 50g desiccated coconut rocket and sweet chilli sauce, to serve
1 Put the salmon in a microwaveable dish, brush with 1 tsp of the oil, cover with cling film and cook for 2-3 mins on high. Once cool, remove the skin and flake the salmon into small pieces in a large bowl. 2 Stir 100g of the breadcrumbs into the salmon along with the shallot, chilli and lime zest. Squeeze the lime juice into the mixture, season well and form into eight patties. Put the flour, beaten egg and remaining breadcrumbs onto separate plates. Add the coconut to the breadcrumbs and season the flour a little. Dip the patties first into the flour, then into the egg and lastly into the crumbs. 3 Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Cook the fishcakes for about 3 mins each side. You’ll need to do this in two batches, so keep the first four fishcakes warm in a low oven. Serve with rocket or a green salad and the sweet chilli sauce. BENEFITS freezable • omega-3 • gluten free PER SERVING 591 kcals • fat 38g • saturates 16g • carbs 28g • sugars 2g • ibre 5g • protein 31g • salt 0.6g
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 75
Curried cod SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
1 tbsp oil 1 onion, chopped 2 tbsp medium curry powder thumb-sized piece ginger, peeled and inely grated 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 400g can chickpeas 4 cod illets (about 125 150g each) zest 1 lemon, then cut into wedges handful coriander, roughly chopped
1 Heat the oil in a large, lidded frying pan. Cook the onion over a high heat for a few mins, then stir in the curry powder, ginger and garlic. Cook for another 1-2 mins until fragrant, then stir in the tomatoes, chickpeas and some seasoning. 2�Cook for 8-10 mins until thickened slightly, then top with the cod. Cover and cook for another 5-10 mins until the fish is cooked through. Scatter over the lemon zest and coriander, then serve with the lemon wedges to squeeze over.
One-pot dinner £2.10 per serving
Gnocchi with mushrooms & blue cheese Soft goat’s cheese will also work well if you prefer it to blue. Vegetarians should check the label. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
2 x 400g packs fresh gnocchi 1 tbsp olive oil knob of butter 1 large onion, roughly chopped 500g small Forestière or Portobello mushrooms, sliced 2 large garlic cloves, chopped 150g pack creamy blue cheese (we used Danish blue) small pack parsley, chopped
BENEFITS low fat • low cal • ibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 296 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 22g • sugars 10g • ibre 8g • protein 34g • salt 0.4g
1 Bring a large pan of water to the boil and cook the gnocchi following pack instructions. When they float to the top of the pan, they are ready. Drain and set aside. 2 Meanwhile, heat the oil and butter in a large lidded frying pan. Add the onion and mushrooms, cook for 1 min over a high heat, then turn down the heat to medium, put the lid on and cook for 5 mins, stirring a few times. 3 Remove the lid and add the garlic, cook for 1-2 mins, then stir the gnocchi into the pan. Scatter over blobs of cheese and the parsley. BENEFITS vegetarian • low cal • folate • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 471 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 8g • carbs 63g • sugars 8g • ibre 8g • protein 16g • salt 2.7g
Ready in 20 minutes £1.95 per serving
76 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
eat well every day Indian koftas with mint yogurt & latbreads This recipe can be easily doubled to share with friends. SERVES 3 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins EASY
500g lamb mince 3 tbsp tikka curry paste 2 tbsp mango chutney 2 garlic cloves, inely grated thumb-sized piece ginger, inely grated 225g Greek-style yogurt 11/2 tbsp mint sauce 8 latbreads 4 tomatoes, sliced 2 Little Gem lettuces, shredded
Crowd-pleaser £1.75 per serving
1 In a large bowl, mix the lamb mince with the curry paste, mango chutney, garlic and ginger. Season a little and roll into 20 oval balls. Heat a large, non-stick frying pan – you shouldn’t need any oil, as lamb mince is quite fatty. Cook the koftas in batches for 2-3 mins – be careful as they are quite fragile. 2 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Transfer the koftas to a baking tray and put in the oven for 10 mins, adding the flatbreads for the final 5 mins. Mix the yogurt with the mint sauce. Serve the koftas wrapped in a flatbread with some minty yogurt, tomato and lettuce. BENEFITS freezable (koftas only) • calcium • folate • ibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (4) 801 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 12g • carbs 92g • sugars 16g • ibre 7g • protein 44g • salt 2.7g
Italian veggie cottage pie
Easy midweek dessert 52p per serving
SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
4 tbsp olive oil 2 aubergines, cut into chunks 2 large garlic cloves, crushed 16 sundried tomatoes, roughly chopped, plus 1 tbsp of their oil 2 tsp dried oregano 400g spinach, washed 50g plain lour 400ml milk 125g cheddar, grated, plus extra to top 800g ready-made mashed potatoes (fresh not frozen)
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a large, lidded frying pan or flameproof casserole dish. Cook the aubergine, in two batches, over a high heat for 4-5 mins until golden, adding extra oil as you need to. Return all the aubergine to the pan with the garlic, tomatoes and 11/2 tsp oregano and cook for 1 min. Stir in the spinach, put the lid on the pan and leave for a few mins to wilt. 2 Add the flour and stir through until combined. Pour in the milk, stir gently and bring to the boil. Bubble for a few mins, then stir in the cheese and season. Cook until the cheese has melted and the sauce has thickened. 3 Mix the mash with the remaining oregano and spread over the filling. Scatter over a little more grated cheese and bake for 10-15 mins until golden. BENEFITS vegetarian • freezable • calcium • folate • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 432 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 10g • carbs 35g • sugars 9g • ibre 8g • protein 15g • salt 0.7g
Malted milk rice pudding Cover the surface of any leftover pudding closely with cling film to stop a skin forming. SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
100g malted milk powder (we used Horlicks) 200g pudding rice 850ml milk, plus extra if needed 1 pack of Maltesers, roughly crushed
Put the malt powder and pudding rice in a saucepan with a pinch of salt and pour in the milk, stirring. Bring to the boil and cook, stirring, for 20-25 mins, depending on how cooked you like your rice pudding, adding a little more milk if needed. Spoon into bowls and scatter over the crushed Maltesers. BENEFITS calcium • folate PER SERVING 458 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 7g • carbs 76g • sugars 24g • ibre 1g • protein 13g • salt 0.7g
2 of your 5-a-day £1.26 per serving
78 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
eat well every day Okonomiyaki You can easily adapt this quick Japanese savoury pancake – leave out the bacon or the prawns if you want a lighter meal. SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
2 slices streaky bacon 1 egg 50g plain lour 50g sweetheart cabbage, inely shredded 2 spring onions, sliced diagonally 50g small cooked prawns 1 tbsp oil 1 tsp each of brown sauce and mayonnaise
1 Heat a small (about 20cm) non-stick frying pan, add the bacon and cook over a medium-high heat for a few mins until cooked through. Remove the bacon from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. Once cool, cut into pieces. 2 Whisk the egg, flour and 4 tbsp water to make a batter, season and stir in the cabbage, half the spring onions, the prawns and the cooked bacon. Pour the oil into the pan, add the mixture and press down, then
cook for 5 mins on a medium heat.Flip with a spatula, then cook for another 5 mins until golden and cooked through. Slide onto a plate and drizzle over the brown sauce and mayonnwaise. Finally, scatter with the remaining spring onions. BENEFITS 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 613 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 7g • carbs 42g • sugars 4g • ibre 4g • protein 33g • salt 2.9g
Recipe for one £1.80 per serving
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 79
eat well every day
Vegan supper £1.83 per serving
Squash steaks with chestnut & cavolo nero pilaf SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 55 mins EASY
1 butternut squash 2 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for frying 1 /2 tsp smoked paprika, plus a little extra for sprinkling 200g cavolo nero or curly kale, shredded 1 onion, chopped 180g chestnuts, halved 2 garlic cloves, inely chopped 1 /2 tsp ground cumin 1 /2 tsp ground cinnamon 250g basmati & wild rice 500ml vegetable stock 150g pot of coconut yogurt
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Cut the neck of the squash into four rounds (keep the rest for another time). Heat the oil in a frying pan and brown the squash for a few mins each side. Transfer to a baking tray, sprinkle with half the paprika and roast for 30 mins. 2 Meanwhile, in the same frying pan, add a little extra oil and stir-fry the cavolo nero for 2 mins, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the onion and chestnuts to the pan, cook for a few mins, then stir in the garlic, remaining paprika and spices and cook for 1 min. Stir in the rice and stock, bring to the boil, then cover with a lid. Turn the heat down as low as it will go and cook for 25 mins, stirring occasionally. 3 Once cooked, stir through the cavolo nero and serve with the squash steaks and the coconut yogurt sprinkled with paprika.
Cook without oil or fat These durable ceramic frying pans distribute heat evenly for efficient cooking, and the non-stick coating lets you cook without using oil or fat, to create lighter, healthier meals. The set includes a 20cm pan, a 24cm pan and a 28cm pan with glass lid. Available in orange (shown), cream, charcoal, red or black, this frying pan set will look great in any kitchen. Exclusive price for BBC Good Food readers: only £24.99 (was £59.99), plus £4.95 p&p. To order, call 0844 493 5654 quoting 64050 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/64050.
80 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Food styling SARA BUENFELD Styling SARAH BIRKS
BENEFITS vegan • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 562 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 8g • carbs 87g • sugars 14g • ibre 10g • protein 14g • salt 0.4g
Save 30% on six sparkling wines
Was £9.99 a bottle, now only £6.67! Order a case today for just £39.99*
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Photograph MIKE ENGLISH
Prosecco is our favourite fizz in the UK, and this case includes six of Laithwaite’s most popular bottles – all delicious and unbeatable value at just £6.67 each. Save over 30%, with FREE delivery (usually £7.99). At its best, ‘Prosecco caresses the palate in a way unmatched by other sparkling wines,’ according to Decanter magazine, and you’re sure to love the customer favourites in this case. It includes the award-winning Ca’ Bolani, a ‘frizzante’ style – it’s fresh, fruity and gently fizzy, lovely on its own or with canapés. Next, the exemplary Montecampo, a fully sparkling ‘spumante’ with citrus and floral notes, made by the Zonin family, growers in the Veneto since 1821. Rounding off the case is a stunning frizzante from Alessandro Gallici, certain to be a hit with all your guests.
Order a case of six bottles today for just £39.99* and we’ll deliver it to your door, at no extra charge THE CASE INCLUDES TWO OF EACH: • Ca’ Bolani Prosecco DOC Frizz NV • Montecampo Prosecco Spumante NV • Alessandro Gallici Frizzante NV
Terms and conditions *Offer valid for new customers, one case per household while stocks last. No further discount or voucher can be applied. Free delivery (usually £7.99). Offer ends 30/11/2016. You or anybody you buy wine for must be 18 years or over. All goods are subject to availability. Items are offered at the price and quantity stated, individual bottle prices vary, price stated is an average. Delivery to UK addresses only (excluding Channel Islands and BFPO addresses). Standard delivery takes three working days (delivery to offshore islands, Northern Ireland, Scottish Highlands and some other areas of Scotland may take a few days longer). Please visit laithwaites.co.uk/terms for full terms and conditions. Laithwaite’s Wine is part of Direct Wines Ltd. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire RG7 4SW. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites.
To order, call 03330 148188 quoting code RNK1A or visit laithwaites.co.uk/gfsparkling SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 81
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eat well every day
Big-batch cereals Give yourself a head start in the morning with these homemade cereals â€“ made with natural, whole ingredients and nothing else recipes SOPHIE GODWIN photographs CLARE WINFIELD
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 83
eat well every day
Homemade cocoa pops
Nutty cinnamon & apple granola
SERVES 20 PREP 10 mins COOK 16 mins EASY
SERVES 13 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins
100g coconut oil 200g honey 100g cocoa powder 850g buckwheat 150g pack cacao nibs (if you’re cooking for kids, you can substitute with chopped dark chocolate)
400g jumbo rolled oats 2 tsp cinnamon 150g dried apple, roughly chopped 150g coconut oil, melted 250g pack mixed nuts, roughly chopped 100ml maple syrup
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Line two large baking trays with baking parchment. In a large microwaveable bowl, melt the coconut oil with the honey, cocoa powder and a pinch of sea salt. Stir in the buckwheat, covering well in the chocolate mixture.
2 Spread the mixture onto the baking trays and bake for 15 mins, stirring halfway, then mix in the cacao nibs. Allow to cool before storing in a Kilner jar or airtight container. Best eaten within 1 month. BENEFITS vegetarian PER SERVING 302 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 7g • carbs 44g • sugars 8g • ibre 4g • protein 6g • salt none
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Line two large baking trays with baking parchment. Mix all the ingredients together except the maple syrup. Spread the granola out on the trays and drizzle over the maple syrup.
2 Bake in the oven for 20 mins, stirring the granola well halfway through so that it cooks evenly. Leave to cool before storing in a Kilner jar or airtight container. Best eaten within 1 month. BENEFITS vegan PER SERVING 407 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 12g • carbs 34g • sugars 12g • ibre 5g • protein 8g • salt none
All make enough to ill just over a two-litre jar. For more cereal recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com
Cranberry & almond clusters
SERVES 18 PREP 5 mins NO COOK
SERVES 10 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins
300g oatmeal 300g spelt lakes 300g barley lakes agave nectar and sliced strawberries, to serve (optional)
stirring occasionally, then top with a drizzle of honey and strawberries, if you like (optional). Will keep for 6 months. BENEFITS vegan • good for you PER SERVING 179 kcals • fat 2g • saturates none • carbs 32g • sugars 1g • ibre 4g • protein 7g • salt none
1 Heat the honey in a frying pan until it loosens and starts to bubble, then stir in the flaked al monds. Cook for a few mins, stirring constantly, so that some of the almonds toast and turn golden. 2 Tip the almonds onto baking parchment, leave to cool, then break into clusters. Mix with the puffed rice and cranberries, then store in
a Kilner jar or airtight container. Best eaten within 3 weeks. BENEFITS vegetarian • gluten free PER SERVING 230 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 1g • carbs 24g • sugars 5g • ibre 2g • protein 7g • salt none
Next month Toast toppers
84 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling WEI TANG
1 Working in batches, toast the oatmeal, spelt flakes and barley in a large, dry frying pan for 5 mins until golden, then leave to cool and store in an airtight container. 2 When you want to eat it, simply combine 50g of the porridge mixture in a saucepan with 300ml milk or water. Cook for 5 mins,
50g honey 200g laked almonds 225g pack puffed brown rice (we used Rude Health) 200g cranberries
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Join us for lunch at Simpsons
£50 FOR EVERY GUEST
Enjoy a ive-course menu with us on 24 November at this Michelin-starred restaurant in Birmingham Simpsons has long been recognised for its seasonal take on top-quality ingredients and has held a Michelin star since 2000. For 23 years, chef-director Luke Tipping’s passion and imagination has been evident at this relaxed restaurant with rooms, which also has a cookery school. Last year, the Grade II-listed building underwent a major refurbishment, giving it a natural, modern style that is reflected in the food and service. For our unique Good Food lunch, Luke and head chef Nathan Eades will serve a very special menu – see the sample menu, right, to get a taste of what’s in store. Before lunch, we’ll take a tour of the kitchen where we’ll have the opportunity to watch the menu being prepared. Luke will also introduce each of the five courses, highlight the provenance of key ingredients and explain the wine choices. Your goody bag, worth £50, will include Simpsons’ hugely popular, nostalgic ‘pick & mix’, so you can savour the Simpsons experience a little longer. As the restaurant is just five minutes from Birmingham city centre, why not combine it with a visit to the BBC Good Food Show at the Birmingham NEC, 24-27 November. Visit bbcgoodfoodshowwinter.com for tickets. See you there! • Follow Simpsons
THE DATE Thursday 24 November THE PLACE Simpsons, Edgbaston,
Birmingham THE TIME 12pm-3pm THE PRICE £80 per person (£70 for subscribers, see below), including a glass of champagne on arrival, ive-course lunch and wine, plus a goody bag worth £50 TO BOOK Call 0121 454 3434 and quote code GF0916. (Calls cost 7p per minute.)
Sample menu Scallop, cucumber, horseradish & kohlrabi
v Ox cheek, anchovy, watercress, wood sorrel & caper jam
v Guinea fowl, smoked carrots, hen of the woods mushrooms & tarragon
v Celeriac, malt & barley
EXCLUSIVE for SUBSCRIBERS
v Quince tart Tatin with burnt butter ice cream
v Coffee, tea & infusions
Another great reason to subscribe to Good Food magazine! Subscribers save £10, paying £70 per person. Turn to page 60 to find your subscriber code, plus more deals.
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 85
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eat well every day
Just add pesto Don’t underestimate punchy fresh pesto – it’s an easy way to liven up midweek meals recipes ESTHER CLARK photographs MIKE ENGLISH
Sausages with pesto mash SERVES 2
Peel and quarter the potatoes, then cook in a large pan of salted, boiling water for 15 mins. Drain and set aside. Pour a glug of olive oil into a large frying pan over a medium heat and cook the sausages for 15 mins. Add the tomatoes to the pan for the final 5 mins. Mash the potatoes well and mix in the pesto. Season and serve with the sausages and tomatoes. BENEFITS 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 697 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 8g • carbs 65g • sugars 8g • ibre 8g • protein 15g • salt 2.6g
+ 3 large white potatoes
+ 4 pork sausages
= + 200g cherry tomatoes on the vine
tub fresh pesto
Butter bean & chorizo stew SERVES 4
Slice the chorizo and tip into a large saucepan over a medium heat. Fry gently for 5 mins or until starting to turn dark brown. Add the tomatoes and butter beans, bring to the boil, then simmer for 10 mins. Swirl through the pesto, season lightly and ladle into four bowls.
+ 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes
200g cooking chorizo
BENEFITS ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 491 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 8g • carbs 24g • sugars 10g • ibre 8g • protein 23g • salt 2.5g
2 x 400g cans drained butter beans
1 tub fresh pesto
Food styling SARA BUENFELD Styling SARAH BIRKS
Pesto & goat’s cheese risotto SERVES 2
Pour a glug of olive oil into a large saucepan. Tip in the rice and fry for 1 min. Add half the stock and cook until absorbed. Add the remaining stock, a ladle at a time, and cook until the rice is al dente, stirring continually, for 20-25 mins. Stir through the pesto and half the goat’s cheese. Serve topped with the remaining cheese. PER SERVING 745 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 12g • carbs 83g • sugars 2g • ibre 4g • protein 29g • salt 2.4g
+ 200g risotto rice
+ 700ml chicken or vegetable stock
+ 1 tub fresh pesto
100g soft goat’s cheese
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Rosie’s roast pork A succulent roast with super-crunchy crackling, plus lots of leftovers that can be transformed into speedy midweek meals recipes ROSIE BIRKETT photographs HELEN CATHCART
Good Food’s contributing editor Rosie Birkett is a food writer and stylist. Her cookbook, A Lot On Her Plate, is out now (£25, Hardie Grant). Each month she creates modern, seasonal recipes for Good Food. @rosiefoodie
love cooking pork belly because it has lots of flavour, and you get so much bang for your buck with a big joint, as you can use the leftovers in so many ways. Some people are put off by the fat, but that’s where the flavour is, and some of it renders out as you cook it. I’m roasting it with the ribs here, which adds even more flavour, as does the spice and salt rub that goes on before roasting. This cheaper cut makes the most incredible crackling, and my method guarantees super-crisp crackling every time. Roasting pork with fennel and apple gives you a wonderful sweet accompaniment that’s been basted in the roasting juices. You can vary the sides with the seasons – this panzanella is a lovely way with late-summer fruit. 88 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
eat well every day
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 89
Crispy roast pork belly SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins plus at least 1 hr drying COOK 2 hrs MORE EFFORT
2kg pork belly, ribs intact, skin scored 1 tbsp bicarbonate of soda 2 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp chilli lakes 1 tbsp sea salt 1 /2 lemon 1 fennel bulb, cut into thick slices (reserve the fronds for the peach panzanella below, if you like) 2 onions, peeled and cut into thick slices 1 apple, halved 250ml cloudy apple juice 250ml sherry or dry vermouth (such as Noilly Prat)
1 Bring a large pan of water, big enough to fit the pork belly in, to the boil. Add the bicarb and poach the pork on a gentle simmer for 5 mins. 2 Meanwhile, put the coriander seeds and chilli flakes in a small frying pan and toast over a medium heat until the seeds are aromatic, being careful not to burn the chilli. 3 Carefully lift the pork out of the pan using two slotted spoons and put in a roasting tin, skin-side down. Pat dry with kitchen towel and pierce the meat all over with a knife.
Grilled peach panzanella SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 5 mins EASY
3 banana shallots, inely sliced into rings 2 tbsp cider vinegar pinch of golden caster sugar 3 irm peaches, halved, lat peaches are nice, if you can get them 3 1/2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil pinch of red chilli lakes pinch of fennel seeds juice 1/2 lemon 1 tbsp capers, rinsed 2 slices day-old sourdough, torn into chunks handful wild rocket small pack basil, leaves picked fennel fronds, from the pork recipe above (optional)
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Grind the toasted spices with the salt using a pestle and mortar, then cover the meat with half the spiced salt. Turn the pork over and pat the skin dry with kitchen paper, pressing down to make sure it’s dry . Squeeze the lemon juice all over the skin, then rub the lemon, flesh-side down, over it. Pat dry again and rub the remaining salt mixture over, making sure it gets into the grooves. Chill, uncovered, for 1 hr, or as long as possible (up to 24 hours). 4 Bring the pork out of the fridge 30 mins before you want to cook it and heat oven to 240C/220C fan/ gas 9. Nestle the fennel and onion underneath the meat. Roast for 40 mins, turning the roasting tin halfway so that it cooks evenly. Turn the oven down to 160C/140C fan/ gas 3, add the apple, apple juice and sherry to the tin and cook for 1 hr. Turn the oven up to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7 and roast for a further 10-15 mins until the crackling is crisp. Remove from the oven and rest for at least 15 mins, keeping the juices and apple, onion and fennel warm in a low oven. Flip the pork over and use a very sharp knife to cut it up into chunks, in line with the rib bones. Spoon over the juices.
Runner beans & charred leeks with vinaigrette SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
2 trimmed leeks, cleaned and halved 400g runner beans, topped, tailed and sliced on the diagonal 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 anchovy illets pinch of chilli lakes 2 tbsp Dijon mustard 11/2 tbsp good-quality red wine vinegar 1 /2 tsp golden caster sugar 1 tsp inely chopped tarragon leaves 1 tsp inely chopped parsley 2 spring onions, inely sliced 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds, toasted
1 Quick-pickle the shallots in a bowl with the cider vinegar and sugar. Destone and slice the peaches. 2 Put the peaches in a bowl and toss with 1/2 tbsp olive oil, the chilli flakes, fennel seeds and some seasoning. Heat a griddle pan over a high heat and sear the peaches for 2 mins each side until they have char lines on them. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. 3 Pour the vinegar from the shallots into a bowl and whisk together with the remaining olive oil and some seasoning to make a dressing. 4 Put the peaches in a salad bowl or sharing platter with the lemon juice, shallots, capers and bread, season well and pour over the dressing. Add the rocket, basil and fennel fronds (if using), and toss thoroughly with your hands to combine.
1 Bring a frying pan of salted boiling water to the boil, reduce to a simmer, add the leeks and cover with a cartouche (a piece of baking parchment with a hole in the middle). Cook for 4-5 mins until tender and a deeper green, then remove from the water with a slotted spoon (keeping the water at a simmer) and dry in a clean tea towel. 2 Add the runner beans to the water, cook for 2-3 mins until tender, then drain and set aside. 3 Heat a griddle pan over a high heat and toss the leeks in 1/2 tbsp olive oil and some seasoning. Griddle for a couple of mins each side until charred. Transfer to a chopping board and slice into lengths the same size as the runner beans. 4 To make the vinaigrette, pound the anchovy using a pestle and mortar (or whizz in a blender), add the chilli flakes, Dijon, red wine vinegar and sugar and combine. Whisk in the remaining olive oil, season, then stir in the herbs. 5 Put the runner beans and leeks in a large bowl. Pour over the vinaigrette, toss in the spring onions, then scatter over the seeds.
BENEFITS vegan PER SERVING 114 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 1g • carbs 10g • sugars 5g • ibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.2g
BENEFITS vegetarian • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 143 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 5g • sugars 4g • ibre 4g • protein 4g • salt 0.7g
BENEFITS 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 531 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 11g • carbs 12g • sugars 11g • ibre 3g • protein 38g • salt 3.2g
eat well every day
Pork & black bean tacos
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eat well every day
Two easy ideas for your leftovers Pork & black bean tacos SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins EASY
1 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Take the pork out of the fridge and allow to come to room temperature. Then put in a roasting tin and roast for 15 mins or until completely warmed through. 2 Heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Brush the lime halves with 1/2 tbsp oil and put them, cut-side down, in the pan. Leave to caramelise for a few mins, then set aside. Add the olive oil to the pan, followed by the cumin seeds and ground cumin, and allow to sizzle. Add half the onion, the garlic and coriander stalks, and season. Cook for 5-8 mins until soft and fragrant. 3 Add the black beans and a splash of juice from their can, and cook, stirring, for about 8 mins until thickened. Squeeze in the juice from half a caramelised lime and stir to combine. 4 Meanwhile, slice the avocado, squeeze over the juice of half a caramelised lime and season. Char the tortillas in a dry frying pan, or wrap in foil and put in the oven for a few mins to warm through. Serve them topped with the black beans, pork, onion, avocado and coriander leaves, with lime wedges on the side for squeezing over. BENEFITS ibre • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 923 kcals • fat 49g • saturates 12g • carbs 65g • sugars 10g • ibre 16g • protein 46g • salt 1.8g
Spicy Singapore noodles SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
200g pack vermicelli rice noodles 11/2 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced 2 garlic cloves, inely chopped 1 tbsp inely chopped coriander stalks, plus leaves to serve thumb-sized piece ginger, inely chopped 1 large carrot, cut into matchsticks 3 spring onions, sliced lengthways 300g Chinese cabbage, shredded 200g leftover pork, cut into strips 1 egg, beaten 2 handfuls beansprouts For the sauce 3 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp apple juice 1 tbsp honey 1 tbsp ish sauce juice 1 lime 11/2 tbsp curry powder
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1 Pour boiling water over the noodles in a bowl and leave for 4-5 mins until just starting to soften. Drain and leave in the sieve to steam-dry. Mix the ingredients for the sauce together and set aside. 2 Put all your ingredients in bowls next to the hob ready to use. Heat a wok over a high heat with 1 tbsp of the oil. Add the chilli, garlic, coriander stalks and ginger, and move around for a couple of mins. Add the carrot, spring onions and shredded cabbage, and stir-fry for about 5 mins, then move all of it to one side of the wok. Add the remaining oil and fry the beaten egg, moving it around to incorporate into the veg. Add the pork, stir-fry to heat through and combine, then add the noodles and sauce, followed by the beansprouts. Stir-fry for a couple mins more, then serve topped with coriander leaves. BENEFITS low cal • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 455 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 4g • carbs 55g • sugars 12g • ibre 5g • protein 19g • salt 2.8g
Next month Rosie’s roast pheasant
Food styling ROSIE BIRKETT Styling LINDA BERLIN
200g leftover pork, cut into strips 2 limes, halved 11/2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp ground cumin 2 small red onions, inely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 /2 small pack coriander, leaves picked and stalks inely chopped 400g can black beans, drained (reserve the juice) 1 avocado 4 corn tortillas
A TASTE OF MANHATTAN Big Apple bulletins from the Bagel Guy... It was one of those only-in-Manhattan kind of things. I saw this lady outside of Absolute Bagels on Broadway. She had a dog with her. It was the smallest dog you ever saw. Never mind carrying it in a tote, you could have fit this mutt in a pocket book. The craziest thing is the dog had these little shoes on. Tiny leather bootees. Real nicely crafted they were. I said, ‘Lady, is that a thing now? Dogs in shoes?’ She said, ‘Young man, not only is it a thing, it is very much the thing’. Like I said, only in Manhattan. Which brings me neatly onto today’s bagel recipe – also very much the thing in Manhattan – though take it from me, you can eat it just about anywhere. Make it with a New York Bakery Co. sesame bagel and pile it skyscraper-high with New York-style ingredients for an authentic taste of my favourite city, wherever you are.
PASTRAMI + GHERKIN + MUSTARD + LETTUCE THREE OF MANHATTAN’S BEST BAGEL SHOPS 1. H&H Midtown Bagels East “The fresh prince of freshness and variety.” 1551 Second Avenue, NY 10028 2. Ess-a-Bagel “These guys know how to hand-roll a bagel and fill it.” 831 3rd Avenue, NY 10022 3. Absolute Bagels “Old-school NY bagels. Perfect crust, chewy inside. What’s not to love?” 2788 Broadway, NY 10025
Look out for the new Cheese bagel from September. Visit newyorkbakeryco.com/recipes for more inspiration
A great day out for food lovers Be inspired for the seasons ahead…
visit to a BBC Good Food Show is full of exciting new flavours and the chance to meet your favourite culinary stars. Enjoy live demos from Michelin masters and expert chefs in the Supertheatre, and hear top tips from the best in the business in interviews. Discover new cuisines in pop-up restaurant experiences, plus sample and shop for treats and tipples in the shopping aisles – it’s the best way to kick start the Autumn Winter season.
Wine pairing with Aldi New for 2016, Aldi will be matching award-winning wines to dishes cooked live in the Supertheatre in London, Glasgow and Birmingham, featuring tips from expert Olly Smith. Discover more on page 122.
Readers save 20%* on tickets - quote GFR3 With thanks to:
AUTUMN WINTER SHOW SEASON
“Quite possibly the best food festivals on the planet”
The Shows at a glance…
The Hairy Bikers
Discover all the best ingredients for a BBC Good Food Show
Entertainment We’ve got a stellar line-up of over 20 of the UK’s inest chefs and culinary experts appearing across the Shows. Be entertained live in the Supertheatre and throughout the Show.
Shopping Shop from hundreds of producers in the shopping aisles – from artisan specialities and unusual ingredients, to big brands for the latest kitchen kit and must-have culinary gadgets.
We caught up with James at our Birmingham Show… What’s your irst Show memory?
I remember coming here as an exhibitor over 20 years ago, I was selling tin foil long before I started cooking live in the Supertheatre.
Tell us your favourite Show moment?
It’s great meeting new producers as well as the old ones – I just had a guy who came up to me and said that I tried his rapeseed oil 8 years ago – and I still use it now!
Tempt the taste buds as you sample seasonal lavours and discover new ingredients. Join a masterclass or a Tasting Theatre session for top tips on food and drink pairings.
What’s it like to cook in front of a live audience?
You get to interact with a live audience which makes a nice change from spending time in the studio, plus I’m kind of used to it, I’ve been doing it a long time!
Be inspired with delicious recipe demos, live interviews and more, plus meet the BBC Good Food cookery team on the NEW BBC Good Food Stage in London and Birmingham.
See James in Belfast and Birmingham. Visit the website for more details.
AUTUMN WINTER SEASON 2016 | ON SALE NOW
14 - 16 October Belfast Waterfront
4 - 6 November Glasgow SECC
11 - 13 November London Olympia
24 - 27 November Birmingham NEC
bbcgoodfoodshow.com | 0844 581 1345 *Not valid on VIP, VIP Luxe or with any other offer. Ends 28.09.16. Not all celebrities appear at all Shows or on all days. Calls cost 7p/minute plus phone company charges. The Good Food word mark and logo are trademarks of BBC Worldwide Limited. © BBC Worldwide Limited. Organised and presented by River Street Events.
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The recipe I grew up with
My life on a plate
Portrait ANDREW CROWLEY CAMERAPRESS
MEL GIEDROYC Everyone has a dish that brings back childhood memories, and one to pass on to the next generation. Here, the Great British Bake Off presenter shares her family recipes with us interview ROSANNA GREENSTREET Actress, presenter and comedian Mel Giedroyc has worked alongside Sue Perkins since they met at Cambridge University. They have presented Bake Off since it began in 2010. Mel is married to Ben Morris, who works in television. They live in London with their daughters, Florence and Vita.
My Polish granny – Babunia – lived with us throughout the Seventies. She cooked a lot of Polish food and passed on this tradition to my English mum. The bedrock of any Polish kitchen is buckwheat – kasza – with a delicious mushroom sauce. It’s almost like risotto and very comforting. We eat it with buraczki, which is cooked beetroot that my mum grates and mixes with crème fraîche or soured cream and a bit of horseradish. You have to wear rubber gloves when you grate the beetroot unless you want to end up with pink hands for days! Polish food has significance for us because of what my dad went through in the Second World War. When he was 11, he was deported to Siberia with his mum and sisters. His dad was taken by the Russians. The family had very little, and virtually starved for two years. They arrived in London in 1947. Many Polish airmen had flown from RAF-Northolt to help in the Battle of Britain, so there was a community of Poles there. Dad got into university and made a life for himself. So, eating Polish food has always been tinged with pride, but also melancholy. My granny died in 1976. I remember her clearly. Her hair went white in Siberia almost overnight, and she kept it waist-length. Babunia didn’t have a lot of English so we communicated through hugs, mime and laughter. SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 97
food stories Mushroom buckwheat risotto SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
45g butter 1 banana shallot, inely chopped 2 big garlic cloves, inely chopped 1 bay leaf 300g buckwheat 150ml white wine 15g dried porcini mushrooms soaked in 800ml water, drained, liquid reserved and mushrooms chopped 200g Portobello mushrooms, sliced 250g chestnut mushrooms, sliced For the buraczki 200g cooked beetroot, grated 100ml crème fraîche 1 tbsp creamed horseradish 1 /2 small pack dill, leaves chopped, plus some fronds to serve juice 1/2 lemon
1 Mix all the ingredients for the buraczki together in a bowl with some seasoning, then set aside. 2 Melt 15g of the butter in a sauté pan over a medium heat. Add the shallot and a pinch of salt and cook for 8 mins until softened but not coloured, stirring occasionally. Stir in the garlic and bay leaf, cook for 1 min more, then tip in the buckwheat. Toast the grain for 1 min then pour in the wine. Once the wine has nearly reduced, add some of the mushroom liquor and stir until absorbed. 3 Continue to gradually add the liquor and stir occasionally until all the liquor has been used and the buckwheat is tender but with a slight bite. This will take 20 mins. 4 Meanwhile, heat the remaining butter in a frying pan over a high heat. Add the mushrooms and fry for 5 mins until all the liquid has evaporated and they are golden. Don’t worry if the butter goes brown – this adds a welcome nutty taste.
5 Add the mushrooms to the risotto, give it a good stir and season to taste. Serve in bowls topped with the buraczki and some dill fronds. BENEFITS vegetarian • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 557 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 13g • carbs 72g • sugars 8g • ibre 5g • protein 11g • salt 0.5g
The recipe I’d like to pass on Part of me feels sad giving this away, because I think of it as our private recipe. It’s a delicious vegetable soup that comes from my grandmother’s stepmother, who lived in Portugal. I make it at least once a month, and it is so special to me. I’m sure there’s a Portuguese name for it, but I have written it in my recipe book as Mumsy’s vegetable soup – so twee! My grandmother, Astrid Walford, was a painter and children’s book illustrator. I remember her making this soup throughout my childhood, when we descended on her house in the Lake District every summer. Sadly we no longer have that house, but we rent a house near Ullswater from friends – this will be our 13th summer up there. As soon as I left home, my mum gave me this recipe. I feel better every time I make it – the aroma of the garlic, potato and carrot just does something to me. Adding mushroom ketchup is my little twist (Mum’s was bouquet garni). My daughters often help me to make the soup – they love chatting while we’re chopping. One day maybe they’ll add their own twists too. The Great British Bake Off, Wednesdays, 8pm, BBC One
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400g can chopped tomatoes pinch of golden caster sugar 1 bouquet garni (2 bay leaves, 1 rosemary sprig and 2 thyme sprigs tied together with string) 1 celery stick, chopped 200g cauli lower, cut into lorets 150g white cabbage, shredded 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 2 tsp mushroom ketchup
Mumsy’s vegetable soup SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
200g white sourdough, cut into croutons 1 tbsp caraway seeds 3 tbsp olive oil 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 carrot, chopped 1 potato, chopped 600ml vegetable stock (we use bouillon) 100g cherry tomatoes, halved
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put the bread on a baking tray with the caraway seeds, half the oil and some sea salt, and bake for 10-15 mins or until golden and crisp. Set aside. 2 Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the garlic, carrot and potato and cook for 5 mins, stirring frequently, until a little softened. 3 Add the stock, tomatoes, sugar, bouquet garni, celery and seasoning and bring to a rolling boil. Reduce the heat, simmer for 10 mins, then add the cauliflower and cabbage. Cook for 15 mins until the veg is tender. 4 Stir in the Worcestershire sauce and mushroom ketchup. Remove the bouquet garni and serve the soup in bowls with the caraway croutons. BENEFITS vegetarian • low fat • folate • good for you • ibre • 3 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 325 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 44g • sugars 10g • ibre 6g • protein 10g • salt 1.2g
EMMA’S BIG APPLE
Breakfast On the first morning of a family holiday to New York in 2014, we went for breakfast at The Standard Grill, under the High Line Park, opposite the Whitney Museum in the Meatpacking District. The pancakes and French toast were literally perfect, but when the brioche doughnuts arrived, their centres filled with a warm vanilla rum custard, my 10-year-old son asked if we could live here. I said yes. A year later, we moved.
Elevenses The City Bakery isn’t much to look at, but it serves the most outstanding hot chocolate, complete with a floating marshmallow; it is only a five-minute detour from my school run, so on your behalf, I have researched this item many times. These are the dudes who invented the Pretzel Croissant: inside, a buttery croissant; outside, a chewy, salty pretzel. Sorry for saying ‘dudes’.
right). It’s a New York classic, executed perfectly by a Brit. She insists all the ingredients, even the bowl, are chilled. Main Once you’ve finished, dash over to the Lower East Side for chicken & waffles at the Clinton Street Baking Company. It serves buttermilk-battered Southernfried chicken, drenched in a sweet honey-Tabasco sauce, on top of Belgian waffles with warm maple butter. Pudding The legendary Eastern European chocolate babka from Breads Bakery at Union Square is a flaky, soft brioche rippled with chocolate mixed with Nutella. Team it with a slice of Junior’s baked vanilla cheesecake, which has singlehandedly stopped New Yorkers making their own.
Afternoon tea This was easy: Serendipity’s frozen hot chocolate… thick, cold, famous. If you’re still peckish, try a chocolate pizza from Max Brenner: sweet pizza dough, melted chocolate, marshmallows, peanut butter sauce & toasted hazelnuts, or pop to 16 Handles and get the cinnamon rice pudding frozen yogurt instead – it’s 175 calories per serving and everything I love in life.
Lunch For my birthday, my children took me out to dinner, and we changed restaurants for each course. It makes for an exciting meal… Starter At The Breslin, for $15 you can experience April Bloomfield’s Michelinstarred herbed Caesar salad (see recipe,
Emma’s son, Spike, at The Standard Grill
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Aperitif May I suggest a quickie at the
Campbell Apartment in Grand Central station; the old office of a 1920s tycoon and one of the most beautiful rooms in Manhattan. Try the Golden Age cocktail of vodka, vermouth, caramelised coconut purée & rose champagne.
Dinner Starter Buddakan in the Meatpacking
District is an epic, almost biblical room with 40ft-high ceilings and a 50ft-long table down the middle. Order the soup dumplings – little dim sum packages filled with meat and a miso-based broth. You nibble the top of the parcel, suck out the soup as decorously as is possible (it’s not possible), then down the remaining dumpling: they’re sensational. Main Now leg it to Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong, or any of the popular Korean BBQ restaurants. The table doubles as a BBQ cooker, and you’ll be brought wafer-thin meat, amazing vegetables and intense sauces to cook on the hot griddle, while pouring beaten egg into the gully at the edge for an omelette palate cleanser between dishes. My 14-year-old son had his birthday supper here – it’s delicious, theatrical and very East Village cool. Pudding I’ve moved us to Mexican and chosen Bodega Negra, which will serve you a mysterious white chocolate dome the size of a football. The waiter arrives, pours hot caramel sauce all over it, the sphere dissolves and inside is a molten chocolate cake covered in a slightly spicy cinnamon ice cream. Surely that in itself is enough to justify the airfare? Buy a pair of elasticated trousers, pretend you’re writing an article about it all (that’s what I did), and good luck.
Portrait DAN HALLMAN | Recipe photograph PETER CASSIDY | Food styling SARA BUENFELD Styling LUIS PERAL
’ve spent the last year in New York almost solely preparing for this article: here is everything I’ve learned about landmark food in Manhattan, laid out as a one-day food tour. You will have the most delicious day of your life. You will also gain half a stone. On balance, worth it.
Emma Freud and her family undertake the ultimate New York blowout – an all-day meal
Recipe adapted from A Girl and Her Pig by April Bloom ield (£25, Canongate)
Good Food’s contributing editor Emma Freud, a journalist and broadcaster, reports on the Manhattan foodie scene for us every month. @emmafreud
My perfect food day
Perfect Caesar salad As a tribute to the brilliance of chef April Bloomfield, here is her recipe for perfect Caesar salad… with respect and gratitude. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
225g day-old rustic Italian bread, crusts discarded and bread torn into bite-sized pieces 10 anchovy illets, plus extra to serve 60ml red wine vinegar 3 tbsp Dijon mustard 2 garlic cloves 1 large egg 240ml vegetable oil 30g grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra shaved to serve 4 Little Gem lettuces, leaves separated and chilled
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Spread the bread out on a baking tray and bake for about 12 mins until golden and crisp, then leave to cool. 2 Meanwhile, in a food processor, combine the 10 anchovy fillets with the vinegar, mustard and garlic, and purée until smooth. Add the egg and pulse until just incorporated. With the machine on, gradually drizzle in the vegetable oil until it emulsifies to create a creamy dressing. Scrape the dressing into a bowl and stir in the cheese. Season, cover with cling film and put in the fridge until well chilled and thickened, at least 30 mins. 3 In a very large bowl, toss the chilled lettuce leaves with half the dressing, gently rubbing the dressing onto the leaves with your hands. (Save the remaining dressing for another salad or to serve with grilled chicken.) Divide the dressed lettuce between chilled bowls and scatter the croutons on top. Garnish with anchovy fillets and serve right away, passing round the extra cheese at the table. BENEFITS calcium • folate • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 820 kcals • fat 68g • saturates 6g • carbs 33g • sugars 6g • ibre 5g • protein 17g • salt 3.1g
Next month Emma experiences Halloween New York-style and shares her pumpkin cake recipe
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HOME COOKING SERIES
Brand new magazine for you and your kids from the team behind BBC Good Food
Tasty, quick suppers
Healthy kids’ meals
Feed your hungry crowd
Out n�! C�lect �r oth� �eat titles... Visit the Apple App store to download digital issues in the Home Cooking Series, including One-pots, Vegetarian Summer, Eat Well and Bakes & Cakes HOME COOKING SERIES
Triple-tested recipes from BBC Good Food
SHARE YOUR RECIPES
Some of the most popular recipes on our website come from you, our Good Food members – including this punchy bake. It makes a lovely supper or side dish recipe JUSTINE WALL photograph MYLES NEW
‘South African cooking is such a melting pot of cultural influences that it seems very natural to me to mix everything up in the kitchen,’ says Justine, a designer now living in Wiltshire. ‘I tend to cook Italian and Middle Eastern dishes, and give them a South African-British twist. ‘I created this artichoke bake for my husband, Andy, who loves sharp flavours. Canned artichokes can be wonderful used in the right way, and anchovies and Parmesan give this dish a good kick of umami.’
Artichoke, anchovy & caper bake This can be frozen before baking – defrost in the fridge and bake as below to serve.
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling LUIS PERAL
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins EASY
2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp salted butter 1 onion, inely chopped 2 garlic cloves, grated 1 celery stick, inely chopped 1 small carrot, grated 4 anchovy illets, chopped 1 /2 tsp chilli lakes 1 tbsp tomato purée 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 2 tbsp capers 1 tsp golden caster sugar 1 /2 small pack parsley, chopped 1 /2 small pack basil, chopped 390g can artichoke hearts, drained and rinsed 30g Parmesan, grated 30g pine nuts crusty bread, to serve (optional)
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Put the oil and butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, celery, carrot, anchovies and chilli flakes, and cook for 10 mins. 2 Add the tomato purée and tomatoes, and turn the heat up
until bubbling. Allow to bubble for 10 mins, stirring frequently to ensure it doesn’t stick. 3 Add the capers, sugar, 1 tsp salt and a good grind of black pepper. Bubble for 25 mins more until the sauce has reduced. 4 Take off the heat, stir through most of the herbs, then transfer to a baking dish. Halve the artichokes and nestle these in the sauce. Top with the cheese and pine nuts, and bake for 25-30 mins until golden brown and bubbling on top. Scatter with herbs before serving. BENEFITS freezable • low cal • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 268 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 5g • carbs 17g • sugars 16g • ibre 5g • protein 9g • salt 2.5g
Got a recipe you’d like to share? Visit bbcgoodfood.com and create an account in My Good Food – your recipe could be featured in a future issue.
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FOOD AND FARMING AWARDS
Catch of the day Fresh oysters, cooked oysters, lobster, crab, mussels and more. A small seaside shack – The Glorious Oyster – is championing local, sustainable seafood interview CLARE HARGREAVES portrait DAVID COTSWORTH
ntil Edwardian times, oysters were humble street food rather than a luxury. Now, Lyndsay Platt is serving British oysters as street food once again – and the public appetite for them has proved so strong that she was a finalist in the BBC Food and Farming Awards. ‘Oysters are incredible things, a true superfood, and the original British street food,’ she says. ‘I wanted to take them out of restaurants and put them back on the streets. My aim was to make them more accessible and convert the nation, one oyster at a time!’ Lyndsay, a former youth worker, started by selling oysters from a tricycle in Bristol. Then, in 2014, she set up The Glorious Oyster (thegloriousoyster.co.uk) seafood shack in Westward Ho! on Devon’s north coast, using a converted horsebox trailer. She also sells lobster, crab, mussels and squid, plus dishes using seaweeds. It’s all locally and sustainably caught, with oysters coming from Torridge Oysters and mussels and other shellfish direct from fishermen in Appledore. At this time of year, expect to find on the menu dishes such as cullen skink, trawlerman’s burger, and oysters RockefellHo! – Lyndsay’s take on oysters Rockefeller, the baked oyster dish created in New Orleans in 1899 (see recipe, opposite). It was so rich that it was named after America’s richest man at the time, John D Rockefeller. Lyndsay has recently opened a second outlet – a takeaway beach café in nearby Instow. It offers an ever-changing cooked oyster menu, including baked oysters with tarragon & cream. ‘Being named a finalist has really put Westward Ho! on the map,’ she says. ‘People have travelled across the South-west to visit me after hearing the Food Programme.’
The Glorious Oyster was a inalist in the Best Street Food or Takeaway category of the BBC Food and Farming Awards. Learn about the winners and inalists via BBC Radio 4 iPlayer and at bbc.co.uk.
NEXT MONTH Meet the producer turning Welsh apples into award-winning cider.
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Oysters RockefellHo! ‘Instead of spinach, I use laver seaweed harvested from Westward Ho! beach,’ says Lyndsay. ‘It doesn’t have a strong seaweed flavour, but it adds another level of savouriness and umami. I use fresh laver if I can, but otherwise dried seaweed works well. It’s usually sold under its Japanese name of nori. ‘If you don’t feel confident shucking oysters, you can put them, curved-side down, under a hot grill for a few minutes. When the top shell opens, remove it and put the oysters and their juices in a bowl.’ SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
Recipe photograph MYLES NEW | Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling LUIS PERAL
6 oysters 1 dried nori sheet 1 tbsp extra virgin cold-pressed rapeseed oil 2 shallots, inely chopped 50ml Pernod or pastis 100ml double cream 25g cheddar or Gruyère 1 tbsp chopped lat-leaf parsley thin slices of baguette, to serve (optional)
1 First, shuck the oysters (see our step-by-step guide on page 144). Next, rip up the nori sheet, then blitz in a food processor to create fine flakes. Transfer to a bowl and mix the flakes with 3 tbsp water to rehydrate them. 2 Heat the oil in a medium nonstick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the shallots and cook for 5 mins until soft. Add the shucked oysters and their liquor, and cook for 2 mins. Add the Pernod and nori, and cook for 2 mins more. Add the double cream and simmer for 5 mins until it starts to thicken. Season to taste. 3 Heat grill to high. Put the cleaned oyster shells on a grill pan and spoon an oyster with some of the creamy liquid into each shell. Grate a little cheddar or Gruyère over the top of each oyster. Cook under the grill until the cheese melts and is golden brown. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve with thin slices of crusty baguette, if you like. BENEFITS gluten free PER SERVING 147 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 7g • carbs 1g • sugars 1g • ibre 3g • protein 1g • salt 0.2g
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SIMPLY GOOD FOOD
Smart supper for two A no-cook starter and dessert leaves you plenty of time for the prepare-ahead main in this easy but impressive menu recipes BARNEY DESMAZERY photographs PETER CASSIDY
Menu • Courgette carpaccio • Spiced pork fillet with shallots & apple
• Domino potatoes • Peanut butter parfait with salted caramel crunch
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This is a simple salad with smart presentation. If you want to make it even easier, or for a more rustic look, simply toss all the ingredients together and pile onto two plates. Ricotta salata is the salted, pressed and dried version of ricotta. It is perfect for shaving over salads and pasta dishes. Find it in delis or online at ocado.com. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
1 2 courgettes (a mix of yellow and green ideally) handful mint leaves handful toasted pine nuts inely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon handful wild rocket 50g ricotta salata, pecorino or Parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), shaved
1 Cut the ends off each courgette to make them each about 12cm long. Use a mandolin or swivel blade peeler to shave 4 thin slices from each courgette (use the offcuts and leftovers for another dish). Arrange the courgettes, overlapping, over two plates (alternating the colour if you’ve used yellow and green) and trim the edges on the plate to make perfect rectangles. Season with flaky sea salt and half the lemon juice. Set aside. 2 Stack the mint leaves together, roll tightly, then finely shred. Scatter the mint, pine nuts and rocket over the courgettes, then drizzle everything generously with olive oil and more lemon juice. Scatter over the cheese, finish with the lemon zest and serve. BENEFITS vegetarian • calcium • folate • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 185 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 5g • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • ibre 2g • protein 13g • salt 1.0g
For tips on plating up and using a mandolin, see p142 and p145.
Spiced pork fillet with shallots & apple Go for the best-quality pork you can find and don’t be afraid to serve it ever so slightly pink to keep it juicy. If you have a cooking thermometer, it shouldn’t go over 70C. SERVES 2 PREP 30 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
350g piece pork illet, cut from the middle of the illet 11/2 tbsp garam masala 1 tbsp olive oil 25g butter 1 large banana shallot, halved (keep the skin on) 1 tsp plain lour 100ml white wine 300ml chicken stock 2 ‘cheeks’ from a whole Granny Smith apple
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Season the pork well and roll the fillet in 1 tbsp of the garam masala. Heat the oil in a frying pan and brown the pork well all over. Remove from the pan and wrap tightly in foil to create a rounded sausage shape, twisting the ends so you have a cylinder. Can be done the day before and kept in the fridge. 2 Heat the butter in an ovenproof frying pan and sizzle the shallot, cut-side down, for 5 mins until slightly charred. Baste with the butter in the pan and add the pork roll, still in its foil. Put in the oven for 20 mins, turning the pork once. Remove the pork and shallot, and keep warm. 3 Sizzle the flour in the pan over a medium heat, then add the wine and reduce until there’s almost no liquid left. Add the stock, simmer to make a sauce, then add the rest of the garam masala and keep warm. 4 Cut the fillet, still in its foil, into two and slice each piece on the angle lengthways so you have four pointed pieces. Remove the foil and pour any juices into the sauce. Finely slice each apple cheek, then fan out one on each plate, sitting a piece of pork on top. Put a slice of domino potatoes (recipe, above right) beside it, with a shallot and another piece of pork on top. Drizzle with sauce and serve. BENEFITS freezable PER SERVING 467 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 10g • carbs 11g • sugars 6g • ibre 2g • protein 45g • salt 0.8g
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Domino potatoes These are like individual crispy gratins. I’ve made extra as one is just not enough! SERVES 2 PREP 30 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Peel 2 Maris Piper potatoes, trim to rough rectangles, then use a mandolin or knife to slice as thinly as possible. Fan out four stacks of potatoes on some baking parchment on a baking tray so they are in a line. Drizzle with 1 tbsp olive oil and season with salt. Cook in the oven for 30 mins, turning once, until crispy. Can be prepared ahead and reheated. BENEFITS vegan • freezable • good for you • gluten free PER SERVING 197 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 31g • sugars 1g • ibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 0.2g
Peanut butter parfait with salted caramel crunch You can serve this chilled or freeze it and serve as a cheat’s ice cream. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins plus chilling NO COOK
100ml double cream few drops of vanilla extract 75g smooth peanut butter 50g icing sugar 20g banana chips, crushed, plus 6 whole to serve 2 tbsp salted caramel sauce 50g peanut brittle, crushed
1 Whisk the cream with the vanilla until just starting to stiffen. In a separate bowl, beat the peanut butter with the icing sugar to slacken, then fold the peanut butter mixture and the crushed banana chips into the cream. Tip into a container and chill in the fridge for a few hours or overnight. 2 To serve, paint a stripe of salted caramel sauce over two large plates, then scatter the stripe with the crushed brittle. 3 Using a dessert spoon, scoop the parfait into an oval shape (a quenelle) and sit it on one side of the plate. Top the parfait with a standing row of three banana chips, then serve. BENEFITS freezable PER SERVING 862 kcals • fat 59g • saturates 29g • carbs 67g • sugars 61g • ibre 4g • protein 13g • salt 0.8g
Food styling SARA BUENFELD Styling LUIS PERAL
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Thai curry This month BBC MasterChef judge John Torode takes one of our most highly rated curries at bbcgoodfood.com and gives it a Thai twist
John’s Thai chicken curry The raw beansprouts add great texture to this dish, and I love the fiery heat from the fresh chilli. If you like it extra hot, serve with a spicy Thai chilli sauce. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
Good Food’s contributing editor John Torode is a chef, food writer and TV presenter, and has been a judge on MasterChef for 11 years. Every month he reinvents one of the most popular recipes from our website. @JohnTorode1
love a homemade curry, and Good Food’s chicken, sweet potato & coconut curry is quick to make and deservedly a hit. But I wanted to give the recipe additional authentic flavours, so I’ve added some dried lime leaves, lemongrass and ginger, plus some Thai red curry paste. The wider availability of Thai and other south-east Asian ingredients has made it so much easier to cook dishes like this at home. The secret is the way you make it –sauce first and chicken in last. You need to get flavour from the sauce, then simply poach the chicken in it, otherwise the chicken will be overcooked and the sauce lacking in flavour. Done right, this clever little chicken curry should transport you to street markets of Bangkok or one of the nearby southern islands. 110 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
1 tbsp vegetable oil 400ml can coconut milk 1 tbsp Thai red curry paste (I like the ones that come in plastic tubs – Mae Ploy is a good brand) 2 garlic cloves, grated thumb-sized piece ginger, grated 6 fresh or dried lime leaves 2 lemongrass stalks, bashed 1 chicken stock cube 1 tsp palm sugar 1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into chunks 1 tsp Thai ish sauce handful coriander leaves handful beansprouts 2 long red chillies, sliced 2 dried rice noodle nests (100g) 2 chicken breasts, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 In a large, heavy-based pan, heat the vegetable oil with 1 tbsp of the coconut milk. When it’s hot and starting to splatter, add the red curry paste. Stir
and cook gently over a medium-low heat for 1-2 mins – it should start to change colour. Add the garlic, ginger, lime leaves and lemongrass, and turn up the heat a little. Stir and smell it – it will start to change from the smell of raw garlic and spices to roasted ones. As it turns dark red, add the stock cube and the palm sugar – it will melt and become even darker and richer. Add the sweet potato and the fish sauce, then stir until coated in the paste. Add the coconut milk and 200ml water. Stir, bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer and cook for 12 mins. 2 Meanwhile, mix the coriander, beansprouts and chilli. Cook and drain the noodles following pack instructions, then tip into in a large serving bowl. Taste the curry and season with some more fish sauce or sweeten with a little sugar if necessary. Turn up the heat and bring to the boil, then tip the chicken into the sauce. Return to the boil and simmer for 5-7 mins. 3 Remove the lemongrass, then spoon the chicken over the noodles and sprinkle with the coriander, chilli and beansprouts to serve. BENEFITS 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 830 kcals • fat 43g • saturates 30g • carbs 69g • sugars 14g • ibre 5g • protein 37g • salt 2.6g
If you’ve cooked our original chicken, sweet potato & coconut curry recipe (bbcgoodfood.com/ chicken-sweet-potato-curry), why not try John’s version and see which you prefer – do let us know! Contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Find more of John’s recipes on our website, bbcgoodfood.com
Portrait MYLES NEW | Food styling ROSIE BIRKETT | Styling LINDA BERLIN
photograph PETER CASSIDY
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Switch House The Tate Modern’s new restaurant features indulgent dishes cooked with the best British ingredients. We’ve recreated our favourites for you to cook at home recipes TONY MARTIN photographs DAVID COTSWORTH
Chelsie Collins, our Cookery writer, is always eating out to get fresh ideas. Each month, she adapts the standout dishes from a new restaurant to create a menu that you can cook at home. @chelsiecollins1
n a sunny Saturday afternoon you wouldn’t usually find me indoors, but for the Tate Modern, on London’s South Bank, I’ll make an exception. After lunch at the ninth floor restaurant in the newly opened Switch House extension, I’d fallen in love with the place. Head chef Tony Martin’s style is classic with a modern twist, and he pays particular attention to
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sourcing the best meat and fish from independent suppliers across England. In the bar downstairs, you’ll find craft beers, local ciders, pretty cocktails and, pleasingly, wine on tap. The open-plan space is reflective of the gallery, with concrete walls and minimalist wooden furnishings. There are seats at the bar too if you fancy a quick bite, and the panoramic views across London are so photo-worthy that you may want to bring a fancier camera than your smartphone. Switch House is great for all the family if you’re planning a day out: you can see the latest exhibitions and then treat yourself to lunch. For menus and more information, visit tate.org.uk.
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Cornish blue twice-baked soufflés SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins plus cooling COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT
40g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing 40g plain lour 200ml full-fat milk 2 large eggs, separated 120g crumbled blue cheese 3 tbsp Parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), inely grated For the pear salad 60g bag mixed salad leaves 1 pear, thinly sliced 1 tsp lemon juice 1 tbsp olive oil
1 Grease four small (150ml) ramekins or dariole moulds with butter. Melt the rest of the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat and add the flour. Stir to form a paste,
Roast rabbit loin with black pudding, prunes & white port sauce Wrapping the rabbit loins in pig’s caul adds flavour and stops the lean meat drying out. Caul, also known as lace fat or crépine, is a thin, fatty membrane that surrounds the internal organs of some animals. It’s best to contact your butcher in advance to order it. Sheets of caul freeze well, but you could use streaky bacon to wrap the rabbit loins if you prefer. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins MORE EFFORT 1
/2 x 290g can pitted soaked prunes, drained and inely chopped 120g black pudding, inely chopped 1 /2 x small pack lat-leaf parsley, inely chopped 4 rabbit loins (about 150g each) 200g pig’s caul, cut into 4 squares (or 16 rashers of streaky bacon) 2 tsp rapeseed oil For the fondant potatoes 4 baking potatoes 140g unsalted butter 400 500ml beef or veal stock For the sauce 20g unsalted butter 2 shallots, inely chopped 2 carrots, inely chopped
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then cook for 1 min. Take off the heat and slowly beat in the milk. Return to the heat, bring the mixture to the boil, stirring constantly, then simmer gently for 2 mins until thickened. Pour into a large mixing bowl and leave to cool a little before beating in the egg yolks and folding in the blue cheese. Season, then put the mixture to one side. 2 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and boil the kettle. Whisk the egg whites until they form medium peaks, then stir 1 tbsp into the cooled cheese mixture to loosen. Fold in the remaining egg whites with a spatula. Fill the moulds with the mixture until they are 3/4 full and put them in a small roasting tin. Pour boiling water into the tin until it comes halfway up the outside of the moulds. Bake for 15-20 mins until just set. Take the soufflés out of the tin and leave to rest for another 15-20 mins (the soufflés will sink slightly as they cool).
Can be covered in the moulds and kept in the fridge for up to 1 day – if they have been refrigerated, leave at room temperature for 15 mins before baking. 3 With the oven at 200C/180C fan/ gas 6, take the soufflés out of their moulds and put upside-down on a non-stick baking tray. Sprinkle with Parmesan and bake for 8-10 mins until golden brown and risen. While the soufflés are baking, divide the salad leaves and pear slices between serving plates. Whisk the lemon juice and olive oil together with some seasoning. Drizzle the dressing over the salad, then top with the soufflés. Serve immediately.
2 celery sticks, inely chopped 2 thyme sprigs 2 tsp tomato purée 400ml white port 200ml red wine 300ml beef or veal stock To serve 200g tenderstem broccoli 20g unsalted butter
3 Meanwhile, prepare the rabbit stuffing. Mix the prunes, black pudding and parsley. Carefully make a slit in each rabbit loin without cutting all the way through it, so that it opens out like a book. Lay each loin on a square of caul (or four rashers of streaky bacon) that is large enough to encase it. Spoon a quarter of the prune mixture down the centre of each loin, then pull the edges together. Pull the caul tightly around the loin to encase it and form a seam (the caul should stick to itself ). Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Put a non-stick frying pan on a medium heat and add the oil. Fry the loins on both sides for 3-4 mins until golden brown and crisp all over, then cook in the oven for 7-8 mins. Leave to rest for 10 mins. 4 When the fondants are nearly done, cook the broccoli for 2-3 mins in a pain of boiling salted water, then drain. Melt the butter in a small non-stick frying pan and toss the broccoli with a pinch of salt to finish. 5 Carve the rabbit loins into four thick slices on an angle. Serve one loin per person with a fondant potato, some broccoli and the reheated sauce.
1 First, make the sauce. Melt the butter in a large frying pan. Add the shallots, carrots and celery, cook for 5-6 mins until browned, then add the thyme. Stir in the tomato purée and the port, and bubble for about 3 mins until it has a sticky texture. Add the wine and stock, and simmer for 10 mins until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain through a sieve and discard the vegetables. Set aside to cool. 2 To make the fondant potatoes, peel the potatoes, then trim the sides so that the surfaces are flat. Use a 5cm cutter to cut each potato into a thick disc. Melt the butter in a medium non-stick frying pan until foaming, then gently brown the potatoes on both sides, seasoning with salt as you turn them over. Pour in the stock and simmer for 35-40 mins until you can insert a skewer very easily into the centre of the potato discs.
BENEFITS vegetarian • calcium PER SERVING 390 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 16g • carbs 14g • sugars 6g • ibre 2g • protein 17g • salt 0.9g
BENEFITS ibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 1,310 kcals • fat 78g • saturates 37g • carbs 61g • sugars 29g • ibre 9g • protein 50g • salt 1.5g
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Baked apple sour This simple, warming cocktail combines two great British staples: apples and gin. The Switch House uses Tate Gin from the Sacred Microdistillery in Highgate, London. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus cooling COOK 25 mins MORE EFFORT
Individual lemon tarts If you’re short on time, use readyrolled shortcrust pastry instead. SERVES 4 PREP 1 hr 10 mins COOK 21/2 hrs MORE EFFORT
For the pastry 225g plain lour 110g unsalted butter, cubed 80g caster sugar 1 large egg, lightly beaten For the illing 6 eggs 145g caster sugar zest and juice 3 lemons 240ml double cream For the crystallised lemon 100g caster sugar 1 lemon, inely sliced For the crushed raspberry cream 100ml double cream 10g icing sugar 50g raspberries
1 Heat oven to 70C/50C fan/gas 1/4. First, make the crystallised lemon slices. Add the caster sugar to 100ml water, bring to the boil, then cool slightly. Immerse the lemon slices in the syrup, then put them on a baking tray lined with baking parchment and dry in the oven for 1-11/2 hrs (these can be made the day before and kept in an airtight container). 2 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Put the flour and butter in a mixing bowl. Rub the butter into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the sugar, then add the egg to create an even-textured dough. Stir with a cutlery knife until it just comes 116 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
together, divide into four pieces and shape into flat rounds. Wrap in cling film and put in the fridge for 30 mins to rest. Put four 8cm tart rings on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment. Roll out each pastry disc to the thickness of a £1 coin. Line the rings by pressing the pastry into the corners and up the sides, trimming off the excess with a knife. Use a fork to prick the bottom of each tart, then line with baking parchment and fill with baking beans. Blind-bake for 20 mins, then remove the beans and cook for another 5 mins. 3 While the pastry is baking, make the raspberry cream. Whisk the cream and sugar until stiff. Crush the berries with your hand and gently fold in. Don’t over-stir or the cream will turn pink. Chill in the fridge until needed. 4 Next, make the filling. Reduce oven to 110C/90C fan/gas 1/4. Mix the eggs and half the sugar in a bowl. Put the lemon zest and juice and the remaining sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour the lemon mixture over the eggs and sugar, beat well with a whisk, then mix in the cream. Strain through a sieve and gently pour into the tart cases, bursting any surface bubbles with the back of a teaspoon. Bake for 25-30 mins until just set, with a slight wobble in the centre. Leave to cool 5 To serve, put the tarts on plates. Using a small ice cream scoop or two teaspoons dipped in hot water, make a ball or quenelle (egg shape) of cream and place one on each tart, then top with crystallised lemon. BENEFITS folate PER SERVING 1296 kcals • fat 77g • saturates 45g • carbs 130g • sugars 87g • ibre 3g • protein 19g • salt 0.4g
For the baked apple purée 80g sultanas 4 tbsp soft light brown sugar 1 /2 tsp cinnamon 4 Bramley apples, cored 40g unsalted butter, cut into 10g pieces For the cocktail 200ml gin 80 100ml lemon juice 300ml baked apple purée (from above) handful crushed ice 1 Granny Smith apple, thinly sliced, to garnish
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Mix the sultanas, sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl. Stuff the apples with this mixture, then top each with 10g butter and bake for 20-25 mins until the sugar and butter have begun to caramelise. Cool in the fridge, then purée in a blender. Pour the purée through a fine sieve or muslin, cover and put in the fridge (the mixture can also be frozen at this stage). 2 Put the gin, 80ml lemon juice, apple purée and crushed ice in a cocktail shaker. Depending on the size of your shaker, you may have to do this in batches. Shake hard, check the acidity and add more lemon juice if you like. Strain into a Collins glass or a short glass filled with more crushed ice. Serve each with a straw and slice of apple to garnish. BENEFITS gluten free PER SERVING 238 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 2g • carbs 18g • sugars 18g • ibre 1g • protein none • salt none
To watch a video showing how to make this cocktail, visit bbcgoodfood.com
4 - 6 November | Glasgow SECC
A taste of Scotland This November the BBC Good Food Show returns for our 10th year in the heart of Glasgow. Experience the buzz of seeing your favourite chefs and stars and discover new flavours as you stock up on treats and tipples to get ready for the festive season it really is a delicious day out!
“It’s a fabulous foodie day out” Paul Hollywood
N EW !
Readers save 20%* on tickets - quote GFR3. Book your tickets today!
Tom Kerridge joins us for the irst time in Glasgow, plus Michel Roux Jr, Paul Hollywood, John Torode and Tom Kitchin will all be cooking live in entertaining Supertheatre sessions.
Discover regional and seasonal produce as you shop from hundreds of producers including Perthshire Oatcakes, Chrystal’s Shortbread, Mhor Breads and Spencer ield Spirit Co.
Go home inspired by delicious recipe ideas and wine matches in the Supertheatre, plus pick up top tips from your favourite chefs on the Interview Stage and get cook books signed by the author’s themselves.
Taste some of the city’s best cuisine from a selection of Glasgow’s inest restaurants including Gamba, Porter & Rye, and The Finnieston, plus try signature tasting drinks in their Pop-Up Boutique Bar.
Readers save 20%* on tickets - quote GFR3 bbcgoodfoodshow.com | 0844 581 1345 *Not valid on VIP or with any other offer. Ends 28.09.16. Not all celebrities appear at all Shows or on all days. Calls cost 7p/minute plus phone company charges. The Good Food word mark and logo are trademarks of BBC Worldwide Limited. © BBC Worldwide Limited. Organised and presented by River Street Events.
Harvest showstopper Inspired by the allotment, this fragrant modern bake makes the most of the late-summer courgette crop
Cookery assistant Sophie Godwin, who trained at Leiths, worked as a chef in Sheffield before she joined Good Food. She is passionate about cooking with the seasons and loves creating big sharing dishes. @sophonaplate
Courgette, lemon & thyme cake SERVES 16 20 PREP 1 hr 30 mins plus cooling COOK 1 hr 5 mins A CHALLENGE
Lemon and thyme is a classic combination – the citrus mellows the herb and enhances its sweetness. Adding courgette to the sponges keeps them light and stops them being dry, plus it’s a lovely way to use up a glut. The decorations are made from natural ingredients, so you can eat absolutely every last crumb of this extraspecial version of a lemon drizzle loaf.
Catch The Great British Bake Off every Wednesday at 8pm on BBC One.
350g unsalted butter, softened at room temperature, plus extra for greasing 350g golden caster sugar zest 2 unwaxed lemons 6 large eggs 400g self-raising lour 2 tsp baking powder 4 courgettes (about 600g), coarsely grated 2 tbsp chopped thyme leaves For the icing 250g mascarpone 250g unsalted butter, softened at room temperature zest 2 unwaxed lemons 900g icing sugar For the crystallised thyme 50g golden caster sugar 12 thyme sprigs (use a combination of thinner and thicker sprigs) 1 egg white, lightly beaten For the candied lemon slices 200g golden caster sugar 2 unwaxed lemons, thinly sliced into rounds To decorate gold paint and gold leaf (optional)
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1 Start by making the decorations. For the crystallised thyme, put the sugar on a plate, brush the thyme with the egg white, then roll in the sugar. Shake off some of the excess, then leave the sprigs on a piece of baking parchment to dry out completely. 2 For the candied lemon slices, tip the sugar into a saucepan with 200ml water. Heat gently to dissolve the sugar, then bring the syrup to the boil. Drop in the lemon slices and cook for 15 mins until softened. Carefully remove the slices from the syrup and place on a piece of baking parchment to dry. (Lift them gently as they will be quite delicate, and you want to keep them in rounds if possible.) Keep the remaining syrup for brushing over the cake. 3 Heat oven to 180C/160 fan/gas 4. Grease and line the bases of two 20cm springform cake tins. Make the four sponges in two batches. To make the first batch, in a stand mixer or in a large bowl using an electric hand whisk, beat 175g butter with 175g sugar and the zest of 1 lemon until creamy. Gently beat three of the eggs together in a jug. Gradually add the egg to the mixture, scraping down the side and whisking well after each addition. In a separate bowl, mix together 200g self-raising flour, 1 tsp baking powder and a pinch of salt, and fold this into the cake mixture. Finally, stir in 300g courgette and 1 tbsp thyme leaves. Divide the mixture between the tins and bake for 25 mins or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean.
4 While the sponges are still warm, prick all over with a skewer and brush over a little of the reserved lemon syrup. Once cool enough to handle, remove from the tins and place on a wire rack. Make and cook the second batch of cakes using the remaining ingredients – you can use the same baking parchment, just re-grease the parchment and the sides of the tins. 5 When the cakes are cool, make the icing. Whisk all the ingredients together with a pinch of salt until smooth and fluffy. 6 Using a cake turntable, if you have one, sandwich the cakes together with a little of the icing. Using a palette knife, spread a thin layer of icing all around the cake and chill for 30 mins to set. (This layer is known as a ‘crumb coat’ because it traps any loose crumbs on the surface of the cake – so when you put a second layer of icing on, the cake will be nice and smooth.) If you are short of time, put it in the freezer for 5 mins. 7 Once chilled, completely cover the cake in a second layer of icing to achieve a smooth finish. Stick the crystallised thyme and candied lemon slices over one side of the cake and top as if they are cascading. 8 Return the cake to the fridge or freezer until the icing has completely set. For extra shimmer, use a thin paintbrush to brush a little of the gold paint across the lemon slices for a burnished, autumnal effect, and dot pieces of gold leaf as you go, if you like. PER SERVING (20) 681 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 20g • carbs 92g • sugars 76g • ibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 0.4g
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling LUIS PERAL
recipe SOPHIE GODWIN photograph MYLES NEW
Join our Cake Club If you’ve made our bake, we’d love to see your photos. Send them to email@example.com or share them on Twitter or Instagram #gfcakeclub Next month Celebrate Halloween with Edd Kimber’s spider’s web cake
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Monica Galetti Chicken tartiflette I like to make this in a large baking dish for my family, or for friends. All you need on the side is freshly baked bread to mop up the creamy sauce. Jointing a whole chicken is much more cost-effective than buying pre-prepared pieces, plus you get the added bonus of chicken wings and the carcass – perfect as the base for a soup or gravy. (To watch a video showing how to joint a chicken, visit bbcgoodfood.com.) SERVES 6 8 PREP 1 hr plus cooling COOK 1 hr 35 mins A CHALLENGE
4 tbsp olive oil 1 medium chicken (about 1.5kg), jointed into 8 pieces 2 onions, halved and thinly sliced 1 garlic bulb, cut in half horizontally, plus 3 cloves, chopped 200ml white wine 2 litres chicken stock 1 thyme sprig 2 bay leaves 1kg waxy potatoes (such as Charlotte), cut into 1cm slices 200g smoked bacon lardons 50g plain lour 300ml double cream 400g kale, blanched and roughly chopped 300g Reblochon, cut into pieces, plus 100g extra for the top
Monica will be back for a new series of BBC Two’s MasterChef: The Professionals in November. Her new book, The Skills (£20, Quadrille), is out next month. Monica, who spent 12 years at Le Gavroche, is opening her own restaurant, Mere, in Fitzrovia this autumn.
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1 Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large saucepan on a high heat. Add the chicken pieces, skin-side down, and colour all over for 5 mins. Remove the chicken from the pan, lower the heat and add 1/2 the onions and the garlic bulb, cooking gently for 10-15 mins until the onion has softened. Pour in the wine and reduce until almost evaporated. Add the stock, thyme and bay, season and bring to a very low simmer. 2 Put the chicken back in the pan and cook very gently until the breast pieces are just cooked, about 10 mins. Remove the breast pieces with some of the broth and leave to cool in the broth. Continue to simmer the leg meat until cooked, about 30 mins more. Take off the heat and leave to cool in the broth. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Simmer the potato slices in boiling, salted water until almost tender, about 10 mins, then drain and set aside. Heat the remaining oil in a pan, add the lardons and cook until golden, then remove. Add the remaining onions, cook until translucent, then stir in the 3 chopped garlic cloves. Add the flour, and cook for 2 mins, then tip in the cream. Strain 200ml of the reserved chicken broth, add to the pan and slowly bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and season. 4 Remove the chicken meat from the bones and cut into large pieces. Fold the chicken through the cream mixture, along with the lardons, kale, cheese and potatoes. Tip into a large casserole dish, top with the 100g extra cheese and bake until golden brown, about 20 mins. BENEFITS calcium • folate • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (8) 795 kcals • fat 54g • saturates 27g • carbs 31g • sugars 4g • ibre 4g • protein 44g • salt 1.7g
Photographs CRISTIAN BARNETT
The trailblazing chef and BBC MasterChef judge shares her version of a French comfort food dish that’s great for entertaining
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“A food-lovers paradise” Michel Roux Jr
Discover the perfect food and wine pairings With top chefs and the finest ingredients
Learn from the experts
See your favourite chefs and experts creating tasty dishes in live demonstrations – it’s
Stars including Michel Roux Jr, Paul Hollywood, Mary Berry, Tom Kerridge, John Torode, Nadiya Hussain and more will be cooking up a storm using Aldi’s finest fresh
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the perfect way to prepare for the festive season ahead!
ingredients and artisan produce from 100% British beef to sustainably sourced salmon, to inspire you for the Christmas season.
The best wines Pick up tips from the best in the business as virtual guest, celebrity wine expert
Olly Smith, appears on screen matching some of the delicious dishes cooked live on stage with Aldi’s award winning wine range, from beautiful bubbles and rich reds to wonderful whites.
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THE NEW DRINK RULES
How to sound like a wine expert Victoria Moore, our wine editor, reveals the secrets to being more confident about the bottles you buy
Portrait CLARA MOLDEN | Illustration GEORGE BLETSIS
DO SAY There are some great wines coming out of Etna/the Jura/Porongurup/Swartland
DON’T stick to the big names
These four are among the world’s trendiest wine regions. Look out for nerello mascalese from the volcanic region of Etna, in Sicily, the beautifully named light red made with the trousseau grape from the Jura, France – plus crystalline riesling from Porongurup in Western Australia and wines made with old vines from Swartland, South Africa.
You pay a premium for brands like champagne that everyone has heard of. So go off-piste, like those in the know. There are brilliant and great-value wines to be found in all sorts of country nooks and crannies. Try a Tasmanian sparkling wine or a South African cabernet sauvignon/merlot (also known as a Bordeaux blend, because it combines the same grapes used in the prestigious French wine).
DON’T mention the legs
DO SAY Screwcapped wine can be ‘corked’
Legs are the rivulets of wine that run down the glass after you’ve had a good swirl. For some reason I’ve never been able to fathom, they are the first thing that wannabe wine gurus comment on, but are never mentioned by anyone else.
The chemical responsible for making a good bottle of wine smell like soggy old cardboard is called TCA. Although it’s associated with cork closure, it can linger in a winery and go on to infect whole barrels or vats of wine – including those that are subsequently bottled under screwcaps.
DO SAY Could we have an ice bucket for this red, please?
DON’T hesitate or apologise
Red wine is often served too warm – you will know if the alcohol rushes up your nose as you take a sip and the wine lacks shape and definition. Stick it in an ice bucket (or the fridge if you’re at home) for 10-20 minutes and it will taste more expensive.
So many people approach me with an apology – they don’t know enough, they’ve always felt they ought to learn more… Stop right there! Even the nerdiest of wine experts doesn’t know it all, but you will rarely hear them admitting to that. Instead, they will bluff, nod and spout confidently on. You should do the same – no one will ever know.
What I’m drinking this month St John bag in box, £31 for 3 litres – equivalent to £7.75 a bottle (stjohnwines.co.uk) I’ve fallen in love with the bag-in-box wines imported by London’s St John. These Languedoc wines come in red, white and pink; delivery is free if you order three at once.
What to eat with...
+ Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett 2014 Germany (£9.99, Co-op) A tangy-sweet white, like biting into ripe melon. This would be lovely with the crispy roast pork belly on p90.
DO SAY This wine’s showing well (or not showing well)
I think we’ve all found ourselves in the awkward position of opening a favourite bottle for friends only to feel disappointed and faintly embarrassed when they obviously don’t like it. Wine experts never let themselves lose face over this. Instead, talk about the wine as if it’s a prize poodle that’s having a bedraggled day and say ‘it isn’t showing well’. Everyone wins. @PlanetVictoria
Red wine on ice? It’s not always a no-no
Next month Why malbec is perfect for autumn
+ Tapa Roja Old Vines Monastrell 2014 Spain (£9, Marks & Spencer) A deep, full- lavoured red. The pomegranate, clove and bramble taste will go with the plum & hoisin sauce in the Chinese pancakes on p74.
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Make it with care Nurture your loved ones with a simple meal that tastes super special thanks to the addition of fresh and creamy Philadelphia. Let TV cook Jo Pratt’s crowd-pleasing recipes inspire you
delicious home-cooked meal is one of the best ways to show your nearest and dearest that you care. But what’s the secret to making something that everyone will love? Look no further than Philadelphia. You’ll be onto a sure-fire winner with any dish made with the quality cream cheese. With its fresh
Philadelphia, courgette & bacon carbonara SERVES 5 PREP 5 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
375g spaghetti 150g Philadelphia Garlic and Herbs, plus extra to serve 2 large free-range egg whites, lightly beaten 20g Parmesan cheese, grated 1 tbsp olive oil 120g smoked back bacon, fat trimmed, chopped 2 medium courgettes, grated
1 Cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water for 10 mins until al dente. 2 Meanwhile, whisk together the Philadelphia, egg whites and Parmesan until combined. Season and set aside. 3 Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the bacon until golden. Add the courgettes and fry for 1-2 mins more. 4 When the pasta is cooked, using tongs, lift from the water and add straight to the pan with the bacon and courgettes. Toss, remove from the heat, then add the Philadelphia mixture. Toss again to coat the pasta. Serve with a spoonful of Philadelphia on top.
taste and lovely creamy texture, it lends itself to a wide range of both cooking and baking recipes. Jo Pratt – television cook, cookbook author and mum of two – is a bit of an angel when it comes to cooking for her family. She’s always making nutritious food she knows will be a hit, such as these
delicious Philadelphia recipes. Your family will fall in love with them as well. The smoky jackets are ideal for little ones as they include healthy vegetables, while the Philadelphia adds a lovely creaminess. The classic carbonara, on the other hand, is given a fresh and fragrant twist thanks to the Philadelphia Garlic and Herbs.
“ There’s always a tub or two in the fridge for when I want to add a smooth creaminess to a dish such as pasta”
Philadelphia smoky jackets with tomato salsa SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 1-1 hrs EASY
4 small baking potatoes 90g Philadelphia Original, plus extra to serve 100g sweetcorn, drained 150g kidney beans, drained 4 spring onions, chopped 1 tsp smoked paprika For the salsa ripe avocado, peeled, stoned and diced 200g cherry tomatoes, quartered 4 spring onions, chopped juice lime
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Prick the potatoes with a fork and bake for 1-1 hrs until the potatoes are cooked through and have crisp skins. 2 Meanwhile, mix all the salsa ingredients together, season, then chill. 3 When the potatoes are cooked, turn the grill to high. Cut them in half and scoop most of the flesh into a bowl. Add the Philadelphia and mash together, then add the corn, kidney beans, spring onions and paprika and mix. Spoon the filling back into the potato skins, then place on a baking tray and grill for 4-5 mins until the tops are golden and crisp. 4 Top each jacket with a dollop more of Philadelphia and serve with the tomato salsa.
For more delicious ideas, along with how-to videos and nutritional information, visit bbcgoodfood.com/philadelphia
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On this tour you’ll see some of the finest sights in Northern Italy. Firstly, magnificent Lake Garda with views of the snow-capped Dolomite mountains. Then Venice, a unique city with St Mark’s Basilica and the Grand Canal, plus the chance to enjoy Venetian cicchetti – small plates. Finally, Verona, the setting for Romeo and Juliet and one of the most romantic cities in the world.
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Terms and conditions *You will be contacted by BBC Good Food magazine regarding the BBC Good Food Show after your holiday. Holidays organised by and subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and are offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. **Per person prices based on two sharing a twin room. Single rooms and optional insurance available
at a supplement. Additional entrance costs may apply. Image used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/enquiring if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
To request a brochure, call 01283 742398. To book, visit gfdriviera.co.uk 126 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Comfort food to share Pies, bowl food, plus a banana & bourbon magic pudding Spider’s web cake Bake a Halloween showstopper
New-season cooking Pot-roast pheasant, plus pumpkins, apples and pears
Book an autumn break Mallorca, Paris, Reykjavik and Milan
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Marina O’Loughlin eats
Sicily This month our columnist explores the Etna region of the Italian island, and is enchanted by the dramatic landscapes, frisky rosato wines and abundance of gorgeous produce, from pistachios to lemons and acorn-fed pigs
t’s impossible to escape Mount Etna’s majestic, lowering presence on Sicily, the volcano’s smokepuffing peak looming into view around every corner. The ancient little towns that cling to its slopes look slightly charred, the low-slung buildings coated with a light lacquering of sooty dust. The churches are made from volcanic stone, dark and brooding. But the fire-breathing mountain makes its presence felt in other, less melodramatic ways. The volcanic soil is almost miraculous – everything seems to grow bigger, sweeter, more packed with flavour than anywhere else. The grounds of our temporary home, the ravishing Rocca delle Tre Contrade (trecontrade.com), sprout groves of fat lemons, vegetable and herb patches, and fruit trees as far as the eye can see. G&Ts feature lemons plucked moments ago. The villa’s produce turns up at the table too: forest fruits for breakfast, freshly podded peas and garlands of herbs at dinner. This meticulously restored piece of Sicilian history is usually booked by larger groups, but we’re lucky enough to have it – and its breathtaking infinity pool – to ourselves. Our hosts, Jon Moslet and Marco Scire, are thoroughly immersed in the region’s culinary traditions: they’re installing a cookery school in the building’s lower floors, due to play host to a number of big-name chefs. And they’re determined to show us the best butchers, and where
to buy the finest fish: at their suggestion we make a pilgrimage to nearby Riposto to watch the fishermen unload their catch of velvety red prawns, tuna, sardines, swordfish and local exotica I can’t put a name to, straight onto the market’s marble slabs. Or where to find the most delicious arancini stuffed with pistachios in the unassuming Nuovo Caffè al Portico (+39 347 554 0535) in Carruba. They organise an outing to the Nebrodi Mountains, a national park. The landscape starts to change dramatically – stark monochromes of rock and silver birch, glittering veins of petrified lava – as does the weather; it feels more like Scotland. The woodland is alive with wild ingredients, including fiddlehead ferns, wild garlic, berries, lampascioni (an edible wild hyacinth bulb) and cardoons. With Sicilian humour, there’s something called cosce di vecchia – old lady’s thighs – because the leaves are wrinkled and hairy. Lunch for our band of hungry foragers is a bit special. In the rather functionallooking Hotel Mazzurco in Cesarò (+39 095 773 2129), just where the mountains proper begin, chef and son of the house Gianluca Barbagallo – who has one of the Three Little Pigs tattooed on his arm – serves up a feast: own-made salumi, including the beloved Sicilian gelatina, lemon-scented pork jelly studded with piggy bits. A whole acorn-fed Nebrodi baby pig, slow-roasted in a woodburning oven, is exquisite: the skin
Marina O’Loughlin is one of the UK’s most knowledgeable food writers, and undercover restaurant reviewer for The Guardian Weekend and – from next month – BBC Good Food. An intrepid culinary traveller, she researches the most exciting places to visit at each destination, so you’ll know exactly where and what to eat when you get there. For more from Marina, visit bbcgoodfood.com. @marinaoloughlin @marinagpoloughlin
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lacquered into a caramel crisp, the meat succulent and fragrant with garlic and wild fennel. There’s a salad of sweet ruby blood oranges, more fennel and wrinkly black olives to counteract the opulence, tangles of prized sparacogna (a bitter wild asparagus) and potatoes layered with olive oil and rosemary. The pork is every bit as glorious as its celebrated Iberian cousin. For a brief foray away from the mountainside, we head for Taormina, long the chic destination for film stars and millionaires, thanks to its ravishing location and yearly film festival. You can imagine bumping into La Loren round one of its steep, cobbled corners. Instead we find Tischi Toschi (tischitoschitrattoria. com); recommended to me by Yotam Ottolenghi, a tiny little joint down a hidden alleyway. We sit outside, thrilling to the powerfully Sicilian flavours: wild fennel ‘meatballs’ – meat-free polpette – topped with fennel seed, tiny dark raisins and pine nuts. Handmade carob tagliatelle dressed with sardines and toasted breadcrumbs; ‘slow food’ sheep’s cheese, maiorchino. A cocktail on the terrace of the super-swish Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo (belmond.com) with its gasp-making view is the perfect sundowner, but I’m pining to get back to Etna. We drive through Bronte, otherwise undistinguished, but the source of those preternaturally delicious pistachios, which turn up in everything from cannoli to fabulously intricate pasticcerie, to plates of pasta dressed with a pesto of the nuts – just about my favourite pasta dish ever. Caffetteria Luca (caffetterialuca.com) is the Mecca for everything pistachio: we land on a public holiday and the atmosphere is X
food loversâ€™ travel
Some of the dishes (above and below right) at Rocca delle Tre Contrade
Mount Etna from Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo
A balcony in Taormina
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food lovers’ travel
Rocca delle Tre Contrade
of barely contained mayhem, musclebound dandies jostling with novice nuns for a taste of their delicacies: elaborate, glistening cakes, cassata, whipped mounds of authentically grey-green gelato. Back at Rocca delle Tre Contrade, a special dinner delivers a virtuoso showcase of the region’s bounties. Peas from the garden whizzed into a velvety soup crowned with crisply fried calamari; ricci – sea urchins – to be scooped out of their spiny shells, singing of ripe peach and the sea; a series of local fish served raw and translucent, dressed simply with oil, pepper and tiny slivers of tarocco (blood orange), including the famous red Sicilian prawns of almost candied sweetness; homemade spaghetti, fat and gorgeously al dente, into which the fragrant flesh of those ricci has been emulsified; a semifreddo of local pistachio. It’s as good as any food I’ve ever eaten in Italy. No exploration of Etna would be complete without mention of its extraordinary viniculture. Volcanic soil, obscure indigenous grape varieties, high altitudes and pre-phylloxera vineyards make it a place of pilgrimage for wine nerds – and me. The wineries range from little more than shacks to large, glossy outfits. At Pietradolce (pietradolce.it), we stand outside an old hut above the ancient vines, some planted in the shape of amphitheatres, tasting their rare Vigna
Barbagalli, all jammy red berries and spice. Glugging back the wines where they’re actually grown is something of a primeval pleasure. At the other end of the scale is Barone di Villagrande (villagrande.it), the region’s oldest winery. Run by the latest generation of the noble Nicolosi Asmundo family, it is stunningly beautiful. We’re shown round the cool, fragrant, ageing cellars, the bustling wine production rooms, to end up in the restaurant, a shady, geranium-lined bower overlooking the vines. Each course is accompanied by one of their wines – a frisky, perfumed Etna Rosato the colour of a blush; the harmonious, fruity Etna Rosso. We eat hand-rolled trofie dressed with a pistachio cream and strips of cured Nebrodi ham; foraged wild vegetables stuffed into teeny pizzette Siciliani; a velvety purée of artichoke; and more of the pork, slow-cooked and scented with lavender. Little almondy cakes are served with their opulent malvasia, a sweet ‘passito’ wine made from sundried grapes. We learn that the estate sends its homegrown beans to feed the donkey farm next door, and in return receives its manure to boost the growth of the vines – a lovely piece of co-dependence. Our route home takes us via Pasticceria Russo (dolcirusso.it) in dusty little Santa
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Grape picking at Barone di Villagrande
A glass of malvasia
Venerina, a confectioner and café that retains the elaborate Belle Époque fittings from when it was a pharmacy. It’s a typically Italian collision of exuberance and austerity: the dour little salon contrasting with the bustling bar where locals shoot dark, fierce little coffees and sweet, lemony iced sponges, tortine paradiso (the inspiration for the Kinder cake of the same name). In the shop, the elderly owner pulls out glazed drawers to let us choose from a riot of fruit made from marzipan: prickly pears (bastardi) to perfectly formed chestnuts and figs. The beautiful vintage packaging, unchanged from the café’s early days, is reason enough to visit. The little place leaves a powerful impression. Much as wonderful, wild Etna does.
How to do it Marina stayed at Rocca delle Tre Contrade, which sleeps up to 24 people (smaller villas are available) – book exclusively through The Thinking Traveller. Specialising in an insider knowledge of the area, The Thinking Traveller can organise food trips and cooking classes. thethinkingtraveller. com/thinksicily
Photographs DAVID THOMAS, ØIVIND HAUG TAVERNE, STOCKFOOD, 4CORNERSIMAGES
Great value and so useful
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This large, non-stick pan is perfect for quick midweek meals and one-pot family suppers. Made from inductioncompatible stainless steel, with a ceramic non-stick interior that won’t blister or peel, this versatile pan is suitable for frying on the hob and roasting in the oven. It has a glass lid with a large loop handle, so it’s easy to use with oven gloves. Measuring 30cm, it has a capacity of 3.96 litres, is dishwasher safe and comes with a five-year guarantee.
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SIX QUICK TRIPS
Half-term breaks for foodies Keep the kids entertained and work up an appetite with these family trips packed with activities and great food
Best for SCONES, TRAINS AND SNICKELWAYS York
Best for WALKS AND SEAFOOD Tenby & Saundersfoot Surrounded by some of the finest beaches in the UK, it’s easy to see why the picturepostcard Welsh towns of Tenby and neighbouring Saundersfoot are swamped in summer. Out of season, Pembrokeshire’s charm still shines through. In Tenby, go to ItalianWelsh family chippy D. Fecci & Sons for award-winning fish & chips and ice cream. On Castle Beach, Dennis Café offers fry-ups and doorstep toasties to sate those sea-air hunger pangs.
Round the bay, South Beach Grill is part of a modern development. Menu highlights include Welsh beef and seafood. Overlooking Coppet Hall beach in Saundersfoot, Coast (coastsaundersfoot.co.uk) is one of the best restaurants in Wales. Chef Will Holland’s menu takes full advantage of the fishing boats visible from your table. Skill is shown in starters like crab topped with a white tomato mousse, while turbot fillet with a lobster cream sauce, samphire & mash is very comforting. There’s a kids’ menu too. This area is one of the best in the UK for outdoor
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activities with a coastal National Park offering everything from clifftop walks and horseriding to seal safaris and boat excursions to nearby islands (saundersfootboattrips.co.uk).
How to do it Inland, the Grove in Narberth (thegrove-narberth. co.uk) is a luxury country house hotel with an awardwinning restaurant; rooms for four from £400 per night. Or if you prefer to stay on the coast, Trevayne Farm (trevaynefarm.co.uk) has a campsite and rental cottage. Pitches from £20 per night, cottage (sleeps eight, plus a cot) from £449 per week. Barney Desmazery
Compact, walkable York appeals to adults and children alike. The Shambles, cobbled streets, snickelways (small streets) and ginnels (narrow passages) amplify the historical nature of the city, but the lively centre gives it a modern edge. The food offering is great. As well as several high-end chains, there are plenty of independent restaurants and cafés, including the fabulous Le Cochon Aveugle (lecochon aveugle.uk). You’ll need to ditch younger kids for the tasting menu (nine courses, £70) but the wine bar is worth a punt if they like charcuterie and cheese. More down to earth is Masons Bar & Bistro (masonsbarbistro.co.uk), with a menu of salads and burgers, and No8 Bistro (no8york. co.uk), open from breakfast through to dinner. Don’t leave without visiting the National Railway Museum (nrm.org.uk, free entry), where there are several good cafés featuring
food lovers’ travel Best for CHOCOLATE, CHIPS AND TINTIN Brussels
York Minster and the city wall
Le Cochon Aveugle
Yorkshire produce aplenty. The reconstructed Victorian street at York Castle Museum (yorkcastle museum.org.uk) has a sweetshop selling sugar mice, and stop by Bettys (bettys.co.uk) for a proper cup of tea and a scone.
Photographs GETTY, REX FEATURES
How to do it Come by train and stay at the Royal York Hotel (hotelroyalyork.co.uk) beside the station, which has recently had a swish makeover and offers a pool (useful if it rains) and an excellent breakfast. Junior suites can accommodate extra beds, or go for standard room number four, which has two king-sized beds, from £260 for a two-night minimum stay. Lulu Grimes
A mere two hours from London on the Eurostar, Brussels is a family friendly city with an efficient transport system and a chocolate shop on every corner (a free taster will always revive a flagging child). Visit the Atomium, one of the world’s most bonkers buildings. Take the Wonkaesque glass-roofed lift to the top of the structure, then work your way back down the tubes via stairs and a disco escalator (atomium.be), then jump on the tram to a branch of the wonderful Exki (exki.be) for lunch, where you’ll find goodquality, interesting sandwiches, salads and desserts, all freshly made. Head to Choco-Story (choco-story-brussels.be) for a look at the history and production of chocolate (with tastings and workshops, bookable) or take a stroll around the Grand Place and surrounding streets and conduct a chocolate-tasting tour of your own at the many, many shops. Comics, including Tintin, are big here. Visit the
Comics Art Museum (comicscenter.net) for everything from animation to restoration; exit via the gift shop, of course. In the early evening, stroll to the area around Halles de Saint-Géry, grab an outside table at Mappa Mundo for an aperitif and watch the world go by. Central restaurants include Peck 47, or Peck 20, ( facebook.com/peckbxl) for brunch dishes, salads or a bookie (brownie/cookie), and Bia Mara (biamara. com) for fish & chips with a difference – panko, tempura, tacos.
How to do it Eurostar from St Pancras, tickets from £29 one way. Choose a hotel near the Grand Place to be central. The Novotel (novotel.com) is well situated and has family-sized rooms from around £75. Don’t include breakfast – there are coffee shops and waffles everywhere. Lulu Grimes
Best for FUN ON THE FARM Herefordshire Drover’s Rest, a 16th-century farm and staging spot for market-going shepherds en route to London, now gives travellers one of the warmest welcomes in the Welsh countryside, near Hay-onWye. This immaculate sheep farm-cum-glampsite, newly renovated by South African couple Kesri and Paul Smolas, comes with five spacious safari tents so plush you can barely call this camping. Think decked terraces, smartly kitted out kitchens, deeply-duveted beds, and beautiful, bright soft furnishings that sing of the South African sunshine. Several times a week, guests come together in the dining barn for BBQs, make-your-own pizzas fired in the outdoor oven, and curries. Room-service breakfasts are a treat, with standout South African-style omelettes, bacon rolls and croissants. Collect eggs on farm walks, and feed bunnies, alpacas, pygmy goats and pot-bellied pigs. Walks across the adjacent common allow kids to roam free, longer hikes to the Brecon’s peaks and waterfalls are within easy reach by car, while kayaking on the river Wye is a popular choice.
How to do it Two-bedroom tents and cottages from £395 per week (short breaks available, canopyandstars.co.uk). Sarah Barrell
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food lovers’ travel
The Museum Inn
Best for INN-TO-INN WALKING Dorset A new programme of self-guided hikes combines the loveliest bits of Dorset’s back country with a selection of fine foodie pubs. With maps, walking notes and even a tin of barley sugars supplied, parents need not worry about losing their way, or the will of small companions. Distances are manageable, luggage is transferred, and there are plenty of chances to pause at farm cafés and country pubs. The five-day Dorset Royal Chase route takes in the villages and hunting grounds around Cranborne, former haunt of Henry VIII. Walking notes bring history to life, while food pitstops include the 17th-century Museum Inn at Farnham (museuminn. co.uk), where the Shed dining area comes with children’s toys and old school desks. Mains include steamed River Exe mussels and a hotsmoked pheasant salad. Weather not great? Get cosy at the Inn at Cranborne (theinnatcranborne.co.uk). Dine in front of woodburners on the awardwinning local 30-Mile Menu, which includes smoked meat and fish platters plus daily steak selections.
How to do it The Dorset Royal Chase break costs from £495 per person for four nights’ B&B, luggage transfers and a walking pack ( foottrails. co.uk). Sarah Barrell
The Castello di Ama winery
‘Try homemade ice cream in seasonal flavours that include vin santo, figs and ricotta’ Best for A BELLA VITA BIRTHDAY BLOWOUT Tuscany Celebrate the 300th birthday of Italy’s bestknown wine: Medici Grand Duke Cosimo III granted Chianti its denomination of origin three centuries ago, commemorated this year with wine-fuelled festivities throughout the province. Tour and taste at Chianti’s premier wineproducing estate, Castello di Ama (castellodiama. com), also home to a contemporary art collection including child-accessible works by Louise Bourgeois and Anish Kapoor. At the Dievole Estate (dievole.it), bike, hike and horse-ride along 27.6km of old sharecroppers’ trails; easily navigable for little legs (and the wine-weary). Stay at Casa Camporata, a three-bedroom, country-
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style Tuscan pool villa. The shops, restaurants and kid’s playground in the pretty Siena town of Gaiole are in walking distance. A 15-minute drive away, in Radda, you’ll find Casa Porciatti (casaporciatti.it), a deli renowned for its Tonno di Radda (not tuna but a delicate fennelscented pork salami) and Lardone di Radda (a local variation of the classic Italian spiced slices of lard). Taste these and more meaty goodies at the family’s
enoteca. In the neighbouring hamlet of Volpaia, enjoy Sunday lunch on the terrace of the mother-and-daughterrun La Bottega di Volpaia (labottegadivolpaia.it). The menu includes hearty cinghiale in umido con olive (wild boar stew with olives), and silky-soft pappardelle with porcini. For dessert, drive 15-minutes east to Gelateria Castellina (anticadelizia.blogspot.co.uk) for homemade ice cream in seasonal flavours that include vin santo (sweet wine), figs and ricotta.
How to do it To Tuscany (to-tuscany.com) offers a week at Casa Camporata (sleeps six) from £1,509. Flights extra, to either Pisa or Florence. Sarah Barrell
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To find out more about Purina Gourmet and win, visit bbcgoodfood.com/purina-gourmet
Nothing but the best for your cat. Serve him nature’s finest ingredients in a delicate broth and spoil his senses.
ASK A LOCAL
Visit Northern Ireland’s capital for excellent restaurants, an exciting food scene – and our new BBC Good Food Show words JORIS MINNE
James St South
Under the stewardship of award-winning chef Danni Barry, Eipic was recently awarded a Michelin star – remarkable for a restaurant barely two years old. Danni’s attention to detail does not get in the way of the deep, rustic flavours of her food. Among the marvels are Mourne Mountain lamb with black garlic, and monkfish with roast bone sauce. Tasting menus at £40 and £60. deaneseipic.com SO
Here the absolute best of Irish produce is transformed into heavenly dishes in a refined, relaxed atmosphere. Small producers vie to see their stuff in the hands of head chef David Gillmore. In particular, the stone bass, John Dory and other fish are always glisteningly fresh. Four-course Taste of Ulster menu, £40. jamesstreetsouth.co.uk SO
John Long’s Fish & Chips OX Michelin-starred brilliance from chef Stephen Toman, aided by the warmth and hospitality of manager and partner Alain Kerloc’h. Everything is seasonal, with a focus on fresh vegetables, fish and the finer cuts of venison and beef. The big attraction is Stephen’s lightness of touch. Leave the wine to Alain or Juliette, his junior sommelier. Fivecourse tasting menu, £50 (plus £30 for wine). oxbelfast.com SO
Going strong since 1914, John Long’s most recent refurbishment was in the 1970s. Now a protected species, the restaurant’s formica booths are in big demand every lunchtime, but get there before 12.30pm and you’ll have no problem. The traditional battered fish is among the best in the city. John Long’s is as much an institution as the Ulster Hall and the Linen Hall Library. Fish from £4.50. johnlongs.com CE, CD, KF
Hadskis Graze This modest-looking bolthole is in the eastern township of Ballyhackamore, which is known for its growing portfolio of small and brilliant independent restaurants. Graze is a powerhouse of local produce. Portavogie prawns, Fivemiletown cheese fritters, Silverhill duck – all are expertly dealt with. If it’s on the menu, don’t pass up the ovenbaked cod with Comber potatoes, local samphire, wild garlic, spiced crab & sauvignon cream. Mains from £10. grazebelfast.weebly.com CD
A top restaurant in a casual outfit. The proper charcoal grill means beautifully charred meats and fish. Chef-patron Niall McKenna (also of James St South) oversees this great operation in the Cathedral Quarter. If alone, eat at the counter and enjoy the craic with the chefs. Go for the stone bass, Kilkeel scallops or one of the excellent pasta dishes, and enjoy it with a local brew, such as the cold, crisp Yardsman lager. Mains from £12.50. hadskis.co.uk CD, CE
Balloo House Howard Street Youthful and occasionally loud, this ramshackle, bare-brick temple is very Belfast. Marty Murphy is in the kitchen at Howard Street, and if you visit the city and miss out on his smoked haddock & prawn red curry, you’ll regret it. There’s a separate vegetarian menu, which includes a potato & caramelised onion gratin with purple sprouting broccoli. Mains from £11.50. howardstbelfast.com CD, CE, KF
This fabulous old roadhouse offers posh dining upstairs, with more relaxed pub grub and rural Ulster charm downstairs. Both are brilliant thanks to chef Danny Millar, whose pedigree stretches back to his teen years at the Michelin-starred Shanks, Bangor. Danny is obsessive about local produce, game, fish, meat and foraged goods. Look out for the Saturday night specials upstairs. Mains from £11.95, kids’ mains £4.95. ballooinns.com CD, CE, KF
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Yardbird Yardbird is above the Dirty Onion, a former whiskey warehouse in the heart of the old city. The restaurant serves up buttermilk-marinated chicken whole (£15), or in halves (£8.50) or quarters (£4.50), but the highlight for those in the know is the avocado salad: all crunchy, messy, lush and spiced up with a chilli vinaigrette. Equally good is the deep apple pie for dessert. Every town should have a Yardbird. thedirtyonion.com CD, CE
The Muddlers Club This little restaurant, on a city centre street nobody knew existed, has caused a sensation since it opened last year. Blackened Mourne Mountain lamb, Fermanagh chicken, smoked haddock and perfect pastry sound classic enough – it’s what head chef Gareth McCaughey does with them that stands out. Mains from £14. themuddlersclubbelfast.com SO Joris Minne is the Belfast Telegraph’s restaurant writer and an authority on the ‘sassidge’ roll. @jorisminne
SUITABLE FOR CD casual dining CE cheap eat KF kid friendly SO special occasion
food lovers’ travel
The Muddlers Club
5 places to shop & eat • Sawers Sawers is a chapel of food love, packed with exotic tinned foods, teas and spices – plus a well-stocked ish counter. sawersbelfast.com • Arcadia A local store famous for bread. Don’t miss the Abernethy churned butter or Hannan’s guanciale (cured pork). arcadiadeli.co.uk • Kurrito Pakistani-Mexican fusion? Why not! Burritos feature minced lamb curry or chilli beef. The place has a modest appearance but the ingredients are top-notch. kurrito.co.uk • Bubbacue A fast food outlet selling slow-barbecued food, quality rolls, good sides and hand-cut chips. Eat and drink for under £10. bubbacue.com • City Picnic It looks like a collision between a pre-school playground and a post office, but the whole family will like it. Everything on the menu can be made gluten free. citypicnicbelfast.com
Don’t miss the BBC Good Food Show Northern Ireland at the Belfast Waterfront, 14 16 Oct. To book tickets, visit bbcgoodfoodshownorthernireland.com or turn to page 94.
John Long’s Fish & Chips
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ALL IN THE DETAIL It pays to be particular with what you eat. Tailoring your diet can help you to be proactive with your health, while buying from specialists helps you to find the best ingredients. Royal Canin encourages you to do the same for your cat
efining your diet to your specific nutritional needs and tastes is probably second nature to you now. The pasta you replace for spiralised vegetables, the farmers’ market tomatoes you buy because they’re bigger and tastier than the supermarkets’, even the mixed nuts you snack on instead of chocolate. It’s all about eating what suits you, so you can feel great and enjoy life. Royal Canin, the leading expert in precise nutrition for pets, is unique in that it thinks the same way about cats and their food. In fact, everything Royal Canin does is for the benefit of the animal.
Focused nutrition Through its extensive technical and scientific expertise, plus working closely with vets and breeders, Royal Canin understands and responds to the needs of cats in every situation. It gives them precisely what they require through tailored nutrition, using ingredients selected for the quality of the nutrients they provide and their nutritional benefits. So regardless of breed, sensitivities, age or lifestyle, they will continue to develop, stay fit and have energy – in short, thrive.
Only available from specialist partners Not only does Royal Canin have specially developed feline diets tailored to specific needs, but it’s also only sold at pet shops and veterinary practices. You won’t find it in supermarkets because Royal Canin chooses to distribute solely through specialist partners. Places where you can discuss your cat’s needs with experts who are qualified to help you choose the correct diet for him. So whether your cat is Persian or Siamese, an indoor lounger or outdoor adventurer, or sensitive to weight or hairballs, with Royal Canin’s pioneering support, you can relax knowing you’re giving your cat the best care possible through tailored nutrition.
I always remind my clients that what they eat and the activity they do is key to maintaining a healthy weight, reducing their risk of illness and promoting their overall well-being – all of which makes them feel and perform at their very best. Good nutrition is achieved by eating a balanced and varied selection of foods in the amounts best suited to each and every one of us. Don’t forget that your nutritional needs vary through life so to maintain optimal health and fitness, your diet should be regularly reviewed. Kerry Torrens, Registered Nutritional Therapist
Innovation and understanding Royal Canin understands one food doesn’t suit all cats, that’s why its food range includes diets specifically designed to support growing kittens, adults and older cats – whose natural defences may become more fragile. It also produces diets specific to the needs of purebred cats that each contain a precise nutrient balance and specially designed kibble. There are diets that have been adapted to indoor and outdoor cats, where energy needs vary significantly, as well as diets tailored to support specific feline sensitivities such as hairballs, skincare and dental concerns.
Get a FREE 400g bag of cat food!* To claim your free 400g bag*, simply register online at royalcanin.co.uk/gfoffer to receive your voucher, which can be redeemed at your chosen Royal Canin retailer. *Terms and conditions apply: Registration open from 12 August to 31 October 2016. Online registration via royalcanin.co.uk/gfoffer only. Requires use of a printer (to print voucher), internet access, use of a valid email address and registration with Royal Canin (you will be prompted to create a new profile if you do not have one). Voucher valid for 28 days from date of registration. Photocopies of voucher will not be accepted. One voucher per person for redemption. Open to residents of the UK only. Not to be used in conjunction with any other Royal Canin offer. While stocks last. For full terms and conditions, please visit royalcanin.co.uk/gfoffer
For more information, and to find a stockist near you, visit royalcanin.co.uk
Expert tips, techniques and reviews from Barney Desmazery to help you get more from your cooking every month
Barney, our Food editorat-large, has worked as a chef internationally and is a pro at adapting restaurant recipes to make at home. @barney_desmazery BAKERS’ BLUFF
Arlette Famous in France but little known in the UK, these crisp, caramelised spiral biscuits are made from puff pastry that has been dredged in sugar, rolled out and baked – similar to a palmier but thinner and a different shape. They’ve become the baker’s biscuit of choice, featuring in books by Paul Hollywood and New York baker Dominique Ansel, who will open a bakery in London soon (see p15).
Photographs ALAMY, STOCKFOOD
Pancetta for bacon A very easy swap – pancetta is basically Italian streaky bacon. Both are cured pork belly and, like bacon, pancetta can be smoked (affumicato) or unsmoked. Pancetta tends to be fattier, and is more authentically Italian when used in dishes like spaghetti carbonara.
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Sharpen your skills Use the correct cuts to ensure your veg cooks and browns at the same pace. They look smarter too
SLICE Best for pan-frying, roasting and deep-frying
Buttered sweetcorn OBLIQUE Best for roasting, braising and stews
DICED Best for chunky pasta sauces, soups and risottos
BRUNOISE ( inely diced) Best for sauces and stuffings
JULIENNE Best for eating raw with dips, deep -frying
BATON Best for stir-frying and pan-frying
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Avoid mess when spreading butter over corn cobs with these three neat solutions: 1 Use a pastry brush to apply melted butter. 2 Melt butter in a wide pan that its the corn. Use tongs to dip the corn and coat it in butter. 3 Heavily butter a slice of bread, then wrap it around the corn. For ive sweetcorn butters, turn to page 13.
Plate up like a pro Want to take your presentation skills to the next level? We asked Simon Hulstone, chefproprietor of Michelinstarred The Elephant (elephantrestaurant.co.uk) in Devon, for his best buys. 1 Off-set plating tweezers for delicate ingredients like microherbs and edible lowers – see the crab doughnuts on p146 (Chef’s plating tweezers, from £7.50, souschef.co.uk). 2 A squeezy bottle for drizzling sauces or blobbing dots of purée around a plate (Clear squeezy sauce bottles, £3.59, lakeland.co.uk). 3 A pastry or plating brush to add stripes of sauce to a plate – see dessert on p109 (Mercer silicone plating brush, £5.98, nisbets.co.uk).
4 A blowtorch for a inal charring just before serving (Super Chef’s blowtorch, £39.50, souschef.co.uk). 5 Chefs’ metal rings, for building neat piles of salad on the plate (Kitchen Craft stainless steel cooking rings, £6.49, amazon.co.uk).
TAKE A COOKERY COURSE
Pasta & risotto
Courgette illustration VICKI TURNER | Oyster illustrations GEORGE BLETSIS | Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH, GETTY
with Angela Hartnett, Hartnett Holder & Co Backstage, Lime Wood Hotel, Hampshire (limewood.co.uk) If there’s one dish you wouldn’t expect to make on a cookery course with a celebrity chef, it’s spaghetti Bolognese. We all know how to make that, right? Wrong. Angela Hartnett’s course takes you back to the basics of Italian cooking, and that includes learning to make ragu (as Bolognese is called in Italy) the way mamma makes it – with diced veal, tomato purée and fresh tagliatelle. As well as tagliatelle, we also made pumpkin tortellini, farfalle and gnocchi – an inspiration for those of us with pasta makers gathering dust at home. The class is very hands-on. Once Angela demonstrated, it was our turn to get down to business. She then showed us how to make ‘proper’ risotto – a saffron-rich Milanese paired with a classic slowbraised ox cheek. Cost £260, including lunch (£210 with other tutors). Verdict A rare chance to see a top chef in action. Clare Hargreaves
YOUR WEEKEND CHALLENGE
Salted egg yolks Salted yolks, salt-cured yolks or cured yolks are the most on-trend garnish on the planet. Google it and you’ll ind lots of complex methods that involve muslin, dehydrators and weeks of waiting. But there’s an easier way, developed by chef Adam Handling (read more about him on p146). Here is his simple guide to yolks with a salty umami punch that you can inely grate like Parmesan – good over pasta or salads, or with avocado on toast. 1 Cover the base of a container about 2cm deep in ine salt (crunchy won’t work). 2 Use the back of a tablespoon to make as many dents as there are yolks to cure. 3 Separate the yolks well so there is no white at all attached, then carefully sit them in the dents. 4 Completely cover with more salt. Leave in the fridge for eight hours, or overnight. 5 The next day, remove the yolks – they will have hardened to the texture of a sticky gummy sweet.
6 Wash them under cold water, dry them carefully on kitchen paper and marvel at how much they resemble dried apricots. 7 Heat your oven to its lowest setting (60C/fan 40C/gas 1/4 is ideal) and dry the yolks on an oiled cooling rack for three hours, until dry and hard. 8 Once they have cooled, the yolks are ready to inely grate. Amazingly, they will keep in the fridge in an airtight container for up to 3 months.
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Shuck oysters Whether you’re eating them raw or cooked, you should always buy oysters closed, then open or ‘shuck’ just before eating. An oyster or shucking knife – blunt, stubby, sturdy and pointed – makes the job easier and safer, especially if it has a guard.
1 Cover one hand with a folded tea towel and use this hand to hold the oyster on the table so that the latter top shell is facing upwards and the hinge is exposed.
FOOD IN FOCUS
2 Insert the shucking knife into the hinge end and wiggle it carefully to lever the top shell up.
Crumble A crumble falls apart as soon as you spoon it from the dish. To show it in all its glory, bring the whole dish to the table and serve it family style. For the best photo, spoon out one portion so that the sticky fruit is visible. Tag your recipe #bbcgoodfood and we’ll regram the best.
3 Run the knife along the inside of the top shell to cut the muscle attaching the oyster to the shell. Discard the top shell.
4 Run the knife underneath the oyster to detach it from the bottom shell. The oyster is now ready to eat raw or to be cooked (see our recipe on page 105).
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Cook with your smartphone Apprehensive about panfrying? Unsure about what ‘medium heat’ or ‘until done’ mean? The new Panintelligent app-operated pan (£169.99, thefowndry.com), aims to help. It works via a temperature sensor linked by Bluetooth to your phone. The app
tells you when to stir or add ingredients, and indicates when your food is cooked. As an instinctive cook, I had to ight the urge to take shortcuts. But, much like using a sat-nav, you get there in the end. I tried omelettes, salmon and steak with trepidation, yet each time it produced good results. Most impressively, the steak was correctly cooked medium-rare. Verdict The pan works and is high quality, and connectivity is efficient. But it still feels like a prototype: it doesn’t work on induction hobs and the heat change is slow. App-operated gadgets are the kitchen tech future, however I would wait before investing.
Using a mandolin Mandolins are useful for perfect slices, like in the recipes on page 108. But they’re very sharp – here’s how to use one safely. 1 Use the guard and, if the guard has prongs, press them hard into the food before slicing so they grip well. 2 If there is no guard, push food through the blade with the heel of your hand, not your ingertips. This works for bulkier pieces of food too. 3 Use a tea towel when pushing small items through the blade to protect your hand. 4 Never leave a mandolin in a sink full of water or out of the box in a drawer.
ASK THE EXPERT
Can I freeze raw bread dough?
Richard Bertinet says: Any white or olive oil dough freezes, but should only be used for latbreads, pizza or as a starter for new dough – defrosted yeast will not rise much. Wholemeal dough won’t freeze well. After mixing, leave the dough to rest for a few hours, then divide into pieces no more than 400g – any bigger and the dough won’t freeze fast enough. Dust with lour or rub with olive oil and place on a plastic tray uncovered in the freezer. Leave space around it so it freezes quickly. After a few hours, transfer to a freezer bag and seal. Defrost overnight in the fridge before use. Richard, a regular guest on BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen, runs The Bertinet Kitchen cookery school in Bath (thebertinetkitchen.com).
STEP BY STEP
Crab doughnuts Adam Handling, who is competing in BBC Two’s Great British Menu, shows how to make this on-trend treat photographs DAVID COTSWORTH
Crab doughnuts If you can get hold of whole, freshly cooked crabs, it’s much cheaper than buying the picked white meat. Plus, you can use the brown meat to create a luxurious pasta sauce, and make bouillabaisse from the shells. MAKES 20 PREP 1 hr 30 mins plus rising and overnight proving COOK 15 mins A CHALLENGE
2 freshly cooked crabs (or 250g white crabmeat) juice 1/2 lemon For the mayonnaise 1 large egg yolk 1 /2 tsp Dijon mustard 100ml olive oil 1 tsp white wine vinegar For the dough 30g butter 75ml milk 250g strong white bread lour 60g golden caster sugar 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast 1 large egg vegetable oil, for deep-frying To decorate zest 1 lemon microherbs or cress
First, make the dough. Gently warm the butter with the milk in a small saucepan over a low heat until the butter has just melted (but don’t let the milk boil). Put the flour, sugar, yeast, egg and 1/2 tsp salt in a freestanding mixer with dough hook attachment. While the machine runs on a slow speed, pour in the warm milk and butter. Knead for 5 mins until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. Using floured hands, transfer to a lightly floured bowl, cover with cling film and leave in the fridge to prove overnight. (If you don’t have a free-standing mixer, mix the ingredients in a large bowl and knead the dough on a floured surface for 10 mins until smooth.) To make the mayonnaise, put the egg yolk, mustard and some seasoning in a small bowl. Very slowly, drop by drop, gradually pour in the oil, whisking continuously so that the ingredients
‘I’ve always loved the combination of crab with brioche, and doughnuts are basically the same thing deep-fried – so it made perfect sense to put the two together.’ Adam, head chef at The Frog (thefrogrestaurant.com) in London’s Spital ields, was a inalist on BBC One’s MasterChef: The Professionals in 2013. He was named Scottish Chef of the Year 2015. Adam represents Scotland in this year’s Great British Menu. Follow him on Instagram @adamhandling
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emulsify. If your mayonnaise begins to look a little thick, add a drop of water to loosen it. Add the vinegar, then season again to taste. Cover with cling film and put in the fridge. The mayonnaise and dough can be made the day before. The next day, briefly knead the dough on a floured surface to knock out the air. Divide the dough into 20 equal pieces and shape into balls. Put on a baking tray, cover loosely with cling film and leave to prove for 3-4 hrs in a warm place until doubled in size. Next, prepare the crab. You need only the white leg and claw meat, but save the brown meat in the body of the crab for another time (see above). Use a sharp knife to crack open the claws and legs, and prise out all the white meat. Line your work surface with cling film. Tip out the crabmeat and pick through it to check for shell fragments. If there is any shell, it should get stuck to the cling film. Put the crabmeat in a small bowl, add the mayonnaise and lemon juice, then season to taste. Cover and put in the fridge until needed. Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer or large heavy-based saucepan to 180C or until a piece of bread browns in 20 secs. Working in batches, fry the doughnuts for 2-3 mins until cooked through and deep golden-brown. Drain them on kitchen paper. When cool enough to handle, split the doughnuts nearly in half, leaving them attached at the base (this makes them easier to eat). Fill with the crab mixture and decorate with lemon zest and microherbs or cress.
PER DOUGHNUT 173 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 13g • sugars 3g • ibre none • protein 5g • salt 0.3g
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 147
Box graters Barney Desmazery and features editor Natalie Hardwick rate essential equipment each month. Find more of their reviews online
WHAT WE LOOKED FOR Surface area The bigger the area, the easier your task. Sharpness We looked for a blade that made uniform shavings in one clean sweep. Number of grades A box grater should have four equally efficient settings. Sturdiness We marked down wobbly box graters that weren’t balanced. Extra functions Graters that had storage capacity or were collapsible got extra points. Ease of cleaning Graters are tricky to clean. We looked for dishwasher-friendly ones. HOW WE TESTED We inely grated lemon, ginger and Parmesan; coarsely grated carrots and cheddar; and sliced courgettes and potatoes.
BEST INNOVATION Ikea Värdefull grater (£7, ikea.com) This thrifty grater sits lat on the work surface so it doesn’t wobble, and avoids mess by catching gratings. You can grate both ways as the blades are double-sided. It has just two grades but both were very sharp.
BEST BUDGET BUY Dunelm Grate ‘n’ store (£4.99, dunelm.com) This has a large surface area on all four sides and comes with a storage container. It is comfortable to use, but also quite bulky and a bit limsy – although for this price, we can’t complain.
BEST INVESTMENT BUY Joseph Joseph fold lat grater plus (£30, josephjoseph.com) Joseph Joseph excels at space-saving kit, and this grater is no exception. Each of the grating surfaces works well, especially the ine function created perfect shavings of Parmesan.
BEST DESIGN Davina for Lakeland grater (£11.99, lakeland.co.uk) This dinky grater has a handle and a cap to catch shavings. It’s slimline and attractive, and its neatly in a drawer. Its design includes three types of grating over its two sides.
BEST FOR SHARPNESS Stellar 4-way box grater (£13.99, amazon.co.uk) Acid-etching purportedly creates the sharpest blades, and this grater attests to that. It feels sturdy, but the ine side isn’t great – you may need a separate ine grater for Parmesan or nutmeg.
DIDN’T MAKE THE CUT O Blunt and limsy graters. O Graters with old-fashioned ine blades that scratch rather than grate O Narrow, strange-shaped or unstable graters
Next month Non-stick roasting tins
The best supermarket breads As the packed-lunch season gets underway, we tried over 40 loaves to ind our favourites BEST ALL ROUNDER
Best brown sliced Jackson’s Yorkshire’s Champion brown bloomer, £1.40, ocado.com Nutty, malty lavour with a irm, springy texture that holds up against wetter ingredients like cucumber. Unlike lots of others in this group, it wasn’t too sweet.
Best white sliced Waitrose soft white farmhouse batch, £1.35, Waitrose Deep yeasty lavour, an attractive loury crust and a loosetextured, airy crumb. Of all the white breads we tried, this one tasted the most homemade.
148 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Best seeded sliced Booths chia seed sliced bread, £1.29, Booths With added nutrition from the chia seeds, this was among the lightest seeded loaves tested. One tester said it would be perfect toasted with mashed banana and honey.
Best pitta The Village Bakery wholemeal pitta, 42p, Aldi Nicely speckled, which shows they were baked authentically. These pittas opened easily into neat pockets for stuffing. We preferred wholemeal to white as it had more lavour.
Best in-house bakery baguette M&S baguette, £1, M&S A great crust gives these a crackly exterior. With a soft, luffy middle, these tasted the most ‘boulangerie’ baked of all. Delicious spread with butter, or paired with pâté and some cornichons.
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TURN TO PAGE 3 FOR YOUR VOUCHER AND DISCOUNT CODE Terms and conditions Voucher and code valid when you spend £50 or more and can be used online, in store or by phone. Calls charged at local rate plus your phone company’s access charge. Code cannot be used in conjunction with other promotions. Offer available 25/8/16 to 13/10/16. To view full list of products and details, visit procook.co.uk or your nearest store for a catalogue. Prices are correct at time of going to press.
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 149
Olia Hercules The Ukrainian chef invites us into her tiny, colourful kitchen and demonstrates that lack of space hasn’t limited her eclectic style interview DEBORA ROBERTSON photographs DAVID COTSWORTH
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lia Hercules, who trained at Leiths School of Food and Wine, worked for Yotam Ottolenghi before branching out as a recipe writer and food stylist. Her first book – Mamushka (£25, Mitchell Beazley), which features dishes from Ukraine and eastern Europe – was published last year to wide acclaim. She lives with her four-year-old son, Sasha, in a north London flat, where she makes the most of every centimetre of space. In a kitchen less than four metres square, she develops recipes, writes books and features, plans classes, makes jams and
‘Eight punks lived here before me – it was terrible. But I knew I could do something with it’ I could do something with it – although it’s tiny, it has high ceilings and a door onto the garden. A friend helped me paint the wall green – my grandma’s house in Ukraine is almost the same colour. I made the little curtains to cover the cupboards, and put up the shelves.
This room is my sanctuary I live in here. It’s where I work, creating recipes and writing. I have people round all the time and I cram them in somehow. I serve whatever it is I’m testing at that moment, or I do something like a slowcooked shoulder of lamb.
I’m obsessed with Soviet glassware I never pass up a chance to go to a flea market. My mum will say, ‘Not again!’ I’m obsessed with collecting all sorts of vintage stuff – cutlery, pestles and mortars, chopping boards, pans, linens. Whenever I travel, I find interesting things.
But I’m not too fussed about kit I don’t get hung up on equipment. You don’t need a lot – a rolling pin, a knife. When I first started food styling, I would take a bag with me to look professional but I’d never use any special equipment. I think you just need your hands, really. That’s it. However, I do like an apron. This one is handmade in Canada, using denim and leather, by thebluntroll.com.
Olia’s larder Salt ‘I’m a little bit crazy about salt. As well as Maldon, I’ve got a Georgian salt from the Svaneti mountains. It’s lavoured with blue fenugreek, which is a really Georgian thing. It’s quite pungent, but fresh and green-tasting too.’ Svaneti salt is available from caucasians.co.uk (£2.49 for 80g). Maple syrup ‘I use this to sweeten dressings and marinades. It has a smokiness that I love.’ Tamarind paste ‘I’m a sucker for all kinds of sour lavours. Again, I add it to dressings and marinades. Its sweetand-sour lavour can really lift a dish.’
My cookbook surprised people
preserves, plays with Sasha and entertains. It’s crammed with personality – a bright green wall, Soviet-era glassware, Ukrainian painted chopping boards, a mezcal cup from a tasting at the Mexican Embassy in Azerbaijan, and masses of family photos – and that’s just how she likes it: ‘I wouldn’t want too big a kitchen; it would just be a version of this anyway, with more stuff.’
My mum cried when I moved here You should have seen this kitchen two years ago! Eight punks lived here before. It was smoky, just terrible. My mum hated it, but as soon as I saw it, I knew
Before Mamushka was published, I don’t think people in the UK differentiated between Russia and Ukraine, so they thought the food would all be really heavy-going. But my book is very colourful and unexpected – lots of fresh vegetables, fruit and herbs – and I think that caught their imaginations.
I always preserve and ferment veg I’m teaching fermentation at The School of Artisan Food (schoolofartisanfood.org, Sept 16) in Nottinghamshire and at Thyme (thyme.co.uk, Oct 22) in the Cotswolds. I’m also doing a Georgian cooking demonstration at the Blackheath Festival (onblackheath.com, Sept 10). @oliahercules SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 151
Editor Gillian Carter Deputy editor Elaine Stocks Art director Jonathan Whitelocke Art editor Rachel Bayly Designer Suzette Scoble Picture editor Gabby Harrington Chief sub-editor Art Young Deputy chief sub-editor Fiona Forman Editorial assistant Anna Lawson PA to Gillian Carter and Al ie Lewis Emma Bales Subscriptions director Helen Ward Subscriptions marketing manager Lynn Swarbrick Head of production Koli Pickersgill Production manager Kate Gristwood Senior management accountant Len Bright Management accountant Noma-Afrika Pele Finance director Stephen Lavin Group marketing manager Tom Townsend-Smith Reader offer manager Liza Evans firstname.lastname@example.org Head of newstrade marketing Martin Hoskins Deputy newstrade marketing manager Charlotte Watts
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BBC Good Food magazine is owned by BBC Worldwide and published on its behalf by Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT
Get the best from our recipes You can trust our recipes: we triple-test them all, and include healthy eating information • Always read the recipe thoroughly before starting, and use standard measuring spoons for accuracy. • Where possible, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainably sourced ish. • We help you to avoid waste by using full packs where possible, or giving ideas for leftovers. Helping you to eat well Our nutritional therapist analyses our recipes on a per-serving basis, not including optional serving suggestions.
Compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), which is the amount an adult should consume daily: Energy 2,000 cals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note, RIs for saturates, sugar and salt are maximum daily amounts). How we label our recipes Our vegetarian or vegan recipes are clearly labelled, but check pack ingredients to ensure they’re suitable. If we say you can freeze a
158 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
recipe, freeze for up to three months unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. A low-fat recipe has 12g or less per serving. A recipe is labelled ‘good for you’ if it is low in saturated fat, with 5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and low in sugar, with 15g or less. A low-calorie recipe has 500 calories or less per main course, 150 calories or less for a dessert. We include the number of portions of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and the vitamins
or nutrients that it contains. • Please note that recipes created for Advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested in the Good Food Test Kitchen. • Our gluten-free recipes are free from gluten, but this may exclude serving suggestions. For more info, visit coeliac.org.uk. • We regret that we are unable to answer individual medical/ nutritional queries.
Suitable for freezing
Breakfasts Blueberry brunch clafoutis 44 Cranberry & almond clusters 84 Homemade cocoa pops 84 Nutty cinnamon & apple granola 84 Three-grain porridge 84 Turkish eggs 16
Baked apple sour cocktail 116 Baked cauli lower in garlic butter 48 Beetroot & onion seed soup 66 Carrot & ginger immune-boosting soup 67 Cornish blue twice-baked soufflés 114 Courgette carpaccio 108 Domino potatoes 108 Grilled peach panzanella 90 Hot ‘n’ spicy roasted red pepper & tomato soup 66 Mumsy’s vegetable soup 98 Perfect Caesar salad 101 Pesto & goat’s cheese risotto 87 Plum & preserved lemon chutney 51 Runner beans & charred leeks with vinaigrette 90 Spinach & watercress soup 67 Sweetcorn beignets 46 Swiss chard gratin 46 Vietnamese egg coffee 10 Wilhelmina’s summer punch 11
• •• •••
•• ••• •
•• •• •
Artichoke, anchovy & caper bake 103 Crab doughnuts 146 Curried cod 76 Fishcakes with lime & coconut 75 Microwave crab risotto with chilli crab toasts 32 Oysters RockefellHo! 105
Vegetarian mains Frying pan pizza with aubergine, ricotta & mint 32 Gnocchi with mushrooms & blue cheese 76 Italian veggie cottage pie 78 Mushroom buckwheat risotto 98 Rye pizza with igs, fennel, Gorgonzola & hazelnuts 56 Spicy cauli lower rice with minty cucumber raita 73 Squash steaks with chestnut & cavolo nero pilaf 80
Packed lunches BLT pasta salad 64 Chicken taco salad 65 Choco-dipped tangerines 65 Chocolate-drizzled popcorn 65 Fruity sundae 64 Ham, cheese & homemade pickle bloomer 68 Italian sub 68 Jerk chicken & mango bowl 69 Keep it green sandwich 68 Roasted cauli-broc bowl with tahini houmous 69 Sesame stir-fry wrap 68 Sweet potato crisps 65 You’re a star sarnies 64
Baking & desserts Courgette, lemon & thyme cake 118 Fig & raspberry crumble cake 54 Frozen blackberry yogurt 48 Individual lemon tarts 116 Made-over millionaire’s bars 34 Malted milk rice pudding 78 No-knead grape & rosemary focaccia 37 Peach Melba pop pies 162 Peanut butter parfait with salted caramel crunch 108 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE Slow cooker muscovado cheesecake with hazelnuts & blackberries 34
Chicken, kale & mushroom pot pie 70 Chicken tarti lette 120 Chinese chicken with pancakes 74 John’s Thai chicken curry 110 Quails with igs & walnut sauce 56
Fish & seafood
Salads, soups, starters, sides & drinks
Butter bean & chorizo stew 87 Crispy roast pork belly 90 Indian koftas with mint yogurt & latbreads 77 Lamb meatball curry 71 Low ’n’ slow rib steak with Cuban mojo salsa 38 Okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake) 79 One-pan spaghetti with nduja, fennel & olives 38 Pork & black bean tacos 92 Rack of venison, roasted carrots & forager sauce 46 Roast rabbit loin with black pudding, prunes & white port sauce 114 Sausages with pesto mash 87 Spiced pork illet with shallots & apple 108 Spicy Singapore noodles 92
56 SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 159
this month’s recipe index
This month’s recipes
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I made the summer party cake (June) for our ruby wedding anniversary. It was fun to bake and most impressive – everyone loved it. Plus, the decorations were very appropriate for the occasion. Gillian Lawson-Matthew, Baltimore, USA
STAR LETTER Growing up, my mum always cooked wonderful meals, so when I went to university, I’d never cooked a thing! I started with spaghetti Bolognese and kept trying new dishes. Fast-forward ive years and I have two years’ worth of your magazine and numerous cookbooks. My favourite moment every month is receiving my new Good Food, and July’s issue was my favourite to date. I loved the halloumi with lemony lentils, chickpeas & beets (right) and the summery stuffed squash. Jessica Morris, St Albans
Jessica wins 12 bottles of Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir 2014 (£13.35, Morrisons). With perfumed aromas of sweet red cherry, and lavours of bright berry fruits, this is classic Marlborough Pinot Noir at its inest.
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Great eats Every month, we ask a Good Food fan to recommend a restaurant. This month, Dianne Ferraby from Bristol recommends The Treby Arms in Plymouth (thetrebyarms.co.uk). ‘This fabulous village pub, owned by 2012 BBC MasterChef winner Anton Piotrowski, has spectacular charm and a Michelin star. The seasonal menu is really interesting and much of the food is grown in their gardens. Prices are reasonable and the service is impeccable. My favourite dish was the roasted kid goat with kid samosa & seasonal veg. A fantastic place to eat and relax.’
@hannahliztolley Hannah’s strawberry tart with lavender & thyme (June) is simply stunning.
@Robert_Cotton76 Feeling hungry with all the amazing smells and food around #bbcgfssummer #BBCGWLive
@spotter8990 Samantha has got her burger building down to perfection in this version of our katsu chicken burger (July).
Know somewhere good in your area? Tell us what makes it stand out – we’ll publish a recommendation in every issue. Let us know on Facebook and Twitter using the hashtag #gfeatsout
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SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 161
TWICE AS NICE
Peach Melba pop pies This month we combine a retro breakfast treat with the classic lavour pairing of raspberries and peaches recipe CASSIE BEST photograph MYLES NEW MAKES 12 PREP 55 mins plus chilling COOK 20 mins EASY
1 Set aside six plump raspberries and tip the rest into a bowl. Add the peaches and toss together. In a small bowl, mix the cornflour and honey to make a paste, pour over the fruit and combine. 2 Unroll a pastry sheet and use a pizza wheel to cut in half lengthways. Cut each half into three equal rectangles so that you have six rectangles in total. Turn one piece of pastry so the long side is nearest to you and fold it in half, like a book, to create a fold down the middle. Open out the pastry and spoon the fruit filling onto one side, leaving a border of about 1cm. Brush the beaten egg around the edges and fold the pastry again to encase the filling. Use a fork to seal the edges all the way around, then brush all over with more egg. Poke a few air holes in the top with a fork. Repeat with the remaining pastry and filling. Put the pies on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment and chill for at least 30 mins, or for up to 24 hrs (or freeze for up to 2 months). 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Bake the pies for 20 mins or until the pastry is golden and the filling is bubbling through the holes. Cool for at least 20 mins.
(If cooking from frozen, bake for an extra 5 mins.) 4 Meanwhile, crush the remaining raspberries until juicy and mix with the icing sugar to make a thick icing. Drizzle over the pies and sprinkle with freeze-dried raspberries, if you like. Eat warm or cold as a treat or a dessert. BENEFITS freezable PER PIE 313 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 6g • carbs 34g • sugars 14g • ibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 0.3g
DON’T MISS NEXT MONTH’S
For our banana, maple & pecan pop pies (pictured), visit bbcgoodfood.com Next month Toffee apple bread & butter pudding
ON SALE 29 SEPTEMBER
Tom Kerridge’s new autumn recipes O Lighter comfort food O Halloween spider’s web cake 162 bbcgoodfood.com SEPTEMBER 2016
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling LUIS PERAL
200g raspberries 410g can peach slices in juice, drained and chopped 1 tbsp corn lour 1 tbsp honey 2 x 320g sweet shortcrust pastry sheets 1 egg, beaten 100g icing sugar freeze-dried raspberries or sprinkles (optional)