October 2016 £4.35
October 2016 Mexican chicken tortilla soup • Basque menu for two • Vegan shepherd's pie • Almond & apple tart
macaroni Smoky cod
& chorizo pie Self-saucing banana pudding
new EASIEST EVER
midweek meals Food lovers' city breaks Seville,Milan,Reykjavik
HalloweenIt's not just for kids! Murder Mystery menu: Blood beetroot cocktails, Death-by-chocolate tart bbcgoodfood.com
Family movie night treats
Pumpkin & caramel cake
Superfood veggie soup
Lighter choc & orange pud
Welcome to October This month we’re revealing the results of our annual Good Food Nation survey, where we ask 5,000 people across the UK how they cook and eat. The results are fascinating, and they allow us to keep in touch with what you – our audience – wants from Britain’s biggest food magazine. One of the striking findings is that 78% of us would like to have a good butcher on our high street. Happily, there’s been a rise in the number of independent butchers – and we meet some of them on page 19. For more findings, visit bbcgoodfood.com/ good-food-nation or search #gfnation. Also this month, our columnists tackle food issues and share their knowledge in our new opinion section. Award-winning critic Marina O’Loughlin reviews a hot new Thai restaurant (p29), wine editor Victoria Moore celebrates malbec (p31), and Joanna Blythman explains why we could run short of chefs (p27). Finally, our new-look travel pages will inspire you to eat like a local (p141), with expert guides to Glasgow’s top food spots, family-friendly Mallorca, and city breaks where you’ll feel at home as soon as you arrive.
Gillian Carter, Editor
PS This season is a favourite of many home cooks, so I hope you’ll enjoy our brilliant collection of triple-tested autumn recipes, which comes free with this month’s issue of Good Food.
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for you to discover this month
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Lardo, plus what’s new this month – trends, buys and the best of the BBC
GF EATS OUT
Marina O’Loughlin reviews Som Saa in London THE NEW DRINK RULES Malbec makes an autumnal splash
Toffee apples COCKTAIL HOUR
A taste of autumn: sloe gin
TOM’S AUTUMN KITCHEN
NEW BUTCHERS ON THE BLOCK
The innovators leading a revival in the meat trade BEHIND THE HEADLINES
Celebrate the season with these indulgent dishes Tom Kerridge’s recipes make the most of the freshest produce
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A satisfying superfood soup
Give your baking a boost with Diana Henry’s puff pastry dishes
Why we may run short of chefs OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 5
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6 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Recipe CASSIE BEST Photograph PETER CASSIDY Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling LUIS PERAL COOK THE COVER Make our melting meatball macaroni and share your photo #bbcgoodfood #cookthecover
News, trends, buys, events, plus the best of the BBC this month
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Lardo The porky back fat we canâ€™t help but love, lardo is cured with herbs and spices. When thinly sliced, the white ribbons melt on your tongue. Why itâ€™s on-trend? After years of urging people to avoid fat, many health experts now recommend eating a diet that includes natural, unprocessed fats, which provide energy and help the body to absorb nutrients. Lardo is a great source of natural saturated fats and is fast becoming a staple in restaurants around the country.
Where to find it? Friends of Ham, the Leeds charcuterie specialist, offers lardo as part of its cured meat platters (friendsofham.co.uk). Try melted lardo on pizza with spinach & egg at Lardo in east London (lardo.co.uk). Enjoy it at nearby wine bar Verden (verdene5.com) or at Theo Randall at the InterContinental (theorandall.com) in Mayfair. You can buy lardo at Italian delis or from lisolabuona.co.uk. Chelsie Collins Spotted lardo near you or made our recipe? Share your photos on Instagram #gftrends
Turn the page for our recipe OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 9
Lardo & apple bruschetta SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
2 tsp olive oil 400g sausagemeat 2 tbsp roughly chopped sage leaves 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 tsp fennel seeds 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and diced 100g lardo, cut into very thin slices 1 /2 baguette, toasted then cut into 8 thin slices on the diagonal
The future’s bright Eating turmeric once a week has been linked with a reduced risk of dementia, according to recent research. Kerry Torrens, our nutritional therapist, says: ‘Piperine in black pepper increases
absorption of curcumin, the active component in turmeric, so combine the two to get maximum bene it.’ We’re adding turmeric to curry sauces, salads and even using it to lavour butter. Find recipes at bbcgoodfood.com
1 Heat the oil in a non-stick pan over a medium-high heat and fry the sausagemeat until brown all over. Season well, then add the sage, garlic and fennel seeds, and stir for 1 min. 2 Toss in the apples and cover with a lid for 4 mins or until they have softened. Season to taste. 3 Spread a little mixture on each slice of toast and top with a couple of slices of lardo. Serve as a starter. PER SERVING 571 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 14g • carbs 31g • sugars 10g • ibre 4g • protein 18g • salt 1.5g
Enamel kettle, £7, Flying Tiger Cheery stainlesssteel, whistling stovetop kettle. Find your nearest store: uk lyingtiger.com 10 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
St John Welsh rarebit mixture, £4.25, Ocado The rarebit at St John restaurant in London is renowned. Lucky for us, it has started selling the topping as a ready-made mix. Spread it on lightly toasted bread and whack it under the grill for oozy, cheesy deliciousness.
This is Good macadamia nut oil (500ml), £14.99, thisisgood oil.com Packed with omega-9 and essential fatty acids, this is the new healthy oil on the block. Its lightness and nutty, delicate lavour make it good in dressings. And it has a high smoke point, so nutritional bene its aren’t lost when cooking.
UniqueItalia courgetti nests (20g/2 nests), £2, Sainsbury’s These dried nests are genius! Once cooked, they’re less watery and more pasta-like than freshly made courgetti, plus there’s no need to buy a spiralizer.
Nomnom Lust salted caramel bar, £4.20, widely available Think you’ve tasted the best salted caramel chocolate? Think again. This bar, by Welsh company Nomnom, knocked our socks off. Made with 72% cocoa dark chocolate and illed with intensely salty, oozy caramel, it’s one of the best we’ve come across.
Turmeric photograph RUA CASTILHO STOCKFOOD Health news SARAH LIENARD
Cassie Best’s favourites
Shopping ANNA LAWSON
FOOD EDITOR’S BUYS
Photograph CLARE WINFIELD Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling WEI TANG
Rocky road Melt 100g dark chocolate and crush 6 digestive biscuits and 1 Crunchie into small pieces. Push a lollipop stick through the middle of 6 apples, then drizzle over the chocolate and stick on the crushed pieces of digestive and Crunchie, plus a handful of mini marshmallows. Leave to set.
Very vegan Mix 6 tbsp melted coconut oil with 6 tbsp cocoa powder and 3 tbsp maple syrup. Push a lollipop stick into the middle of 6 apples, then dunk in the chocolate mixture and sprinkle over 50g coconut lakes. Put in the fridge to harden.
Salted peanut Melt 225g white chocolate. Push a
lollipop stick into the middle of 6 apples, then dunk in the chocolate and cover with 115g chopped salted peanuts. Eat once set.
Autumn glow Stir a smidge of orange food colouring into 225g melted white chocolate. Push a lollipop stick into the middle of 6 apples and dunk them in the coloured chocolate. Crush 6 Oreos, then dip half the apple into the Oreos and leave to dry.
Newsagentâ€™s Melt 100g Wertherâ€™s Chewy Toffees with 6 small Mars bars. Push a lollipop stick into the middle of 6 apples, then dunk in the Mars and toffee sauce. Chill in the fridge until hardened.
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 11
BBC TV RECIPE
MasterChef: The Professionals Marcus Wareing is back next month with a fresh batch of ambitious chefs seeking stardom. Away from the MasterChef studio and his restaurants, the Michelin-starred chef likes more relaxed cooking, as you can see from this recipe in his new book, Marcus at Home. The new series of MasterChef: The Professionals starts in November on BBC Two.
COOK AND LEARN 100 Ways with Eggs (£14.99, Ryland Peters & Small) Inspiration for one of the cheapest and most versatile ingredients in your storecupboard. Recipes include classics like eggs Benedict, tarts and Pavlova, as well as global dishes such as Tunisian baked eggs, Thai salad, Moroccan meatball tagine and Japanese ramen. Whether you want a lazy brunch, speedy midweek meal or something more challenging, this book has it covered. The steak & fried egg baps with mustard butter is next on my list for an indulgent weekend lunch. What we cooked Bibimbap, a Korean dish of rice, veg and spicy meat topped with a fried egg. Traditionally, bibimbap is cooked in a dolsot (stone bowl), which makes the rice crispy. But for this version you don’t need any special kit – the meat and veg are stir-fried in a wok and the rice is boiled separately. You don’t get the crispy rice layer, but there’s a lovely sesame lavour, and gochujang paste adds a iery heat. Quick and healthy, it’s a nice change from stir-fry. Best for Beginners or costconscious students looking to expand their repertoire. Fiona Forman
Aubergines absorb flavours really well. They do release a lot of liquid when cooked, though, so it’s important to chargrill the slices until really golden, otherwise the other flavours will become diluted. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V
2 aubergines 3 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil 1 tsp laked sea salt, plus extra for seasoning 150g dairy-free coconut yogurt grated zest and juice 1 lime 50g rose harissa 30g agave syrup 1 tsp lemon juice 75g roasted and salted peanuts, roughly chopped 1 /2 -1 red chilli, inely sliced coriander cress or salad cress, to serve
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and heat a chargrill pan until hot. Slice each aubergine lengthways into six long strips. Brush with the oil and season with the salt. Chargrill both sides of the aubergine slices until deep golden. You may need to do this in batches depending on the size of your pan. Transfer to a foil-lined baking tray and finish cooking in the oven for 15 mins. 2 Mix together the yogurt, lime zest and juice, and a good pinch of salt. Set aside. 3 Mix together the harissa, agave syrup, lemon juice and 4 tsp water. Season with salt and, when the aubergine is cooked, brush liberally over the top of each strip. Return to the oven for 5 mins. 4 To serve, place the aubergine slices on a large plate and dot the yogurt around. Scatter over the peanuts, chilli and cress. GOOD TO KNOW vegan PER SERVING 390 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 10g • carbs 16g • sugars 11g • ibre 8g • protein 9g • salt 2.1g
12 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Love cheese, but watching your weight? Don’t despair. A recent study found that women with a healthy BMI who consumed full-fat dairy gained signi icantly fewer pounds than those who consumed little or none over a period of 11 years – and the same bene its didn’t apply to those eating low-fat alternatives. While moderation is still key, this study indicates that dairy can be part of a balanced diet if you want to maintain a healthy weight.
Egg dish photograph KATE WHITAKER Cheese photograph GETTY
Harissa-glazed aubergine with coconut & peanuts
ON OUR RADAR
Ue Coffee Roasters Dominic Boyett has been roasting coffee professionally most of his life, but seven years ago he had a brainwave – to use sustainably grown wood to ire a state-of-the-art roasting system that produced a coffee with true depth of lavour. ‘The roasting method, above all, is what in luences the lavour of coffee,’ says Dominic (above), who runs Britain’s only artisan wood- ired roastery. ‘This is what gives green coffee beans their taste, aroma and colour, transforming their fats into volatile oils and caramelising the natural sugars.’ His system is smokeless, and uses hot air from burning wood rather than direct heat from a gas lame, as other roasters do. ‘This means that the beans are evenly roasted,’ he says. ‘People
think wood-roasting means a smoky taste, but it simply brings out the natural lavours.’ Dominic, who buys his arabica beans from small, sustainable farms in South America and Africa, now exports his coffee to more than 90 countries. Ue’s coffee has been given the thumbs-up from leading chefs such as Mark Stinchcombe, winner of last year’s MasterChef: The Professionals, who serves the brand at Eckington Manor in the Cotswolds. He says: ‘I particularly like the Colombian Cundinamarca roast. It has a harmonious lavour, with great depth and a beautiful aroma.’ Buy Ue coffee online, at its Cotswolds café, coffee bars and delis nationwide, and at Harvey Nichols. uecoffeeroasters.com Clare Hargreaves
Recipe adapted from Marcus at Home by Marcus Wareing, out now (£20, HarperCollins). Photograph © Jonathan Gregson
Copper is on-trend this autumn and this 20cm casserole pan, £25, Wilko, is so stunning that you can take it straight from kitchen to table.
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 13
TRENDING Geode cakes Coloured sugar rocks are made to look like crystal formations within these dazzling tiered cakes, which have taken the wedding world by storm.
Emoji menus For a limited time, diners at The Little Yellow Door in Notting Hill, London, and various Pizza Hut branches across the country, had to decipher menus depicted only in emojis. Fun or plain stupid?
It may be the Marmite of the herb world, but coriander is now the UK’s best-selling herb. With the rise in popularity of coriander-heavy cuisines such as Asian, Mexican and Peruvian, we can’t say we’re surprised.
Top tips for veggie kids Like with all children, it’s important to ensure that vegetarian kids and teens eat a balanced diet. Here are our top tips: O Iron is key for healthy red blood cells. Dark green leafy vegetables, okra and broccoli are all iron-rich. O Fruit and veg are important, but low calorie. Avocado and houmous are rich in energy.
Vitamin C increases the absorption of iron. With this in mind, encourage children to eat an orange, tangerine or satsuma after their meal. O Aim for three plant-based protein foods a day, such as lentils, beans and soya mince. O Eggs are full of vitamin B12, which helps the body to release energy from food. Discover more tips and advice at bbcgoodfood.com/howto/guide/top-tentips-veggie-children O
Pricey gluten-free Unless you are coeliac, there’s nothing to suggest that avoiding gluten is better for you. Yet supermarkets sell more and more ‘free-from’ products, often at up to four times the price.
Overuse of charcoal This is a trend that just won’t quit. We’re seeing charcoal salt, drinks, burger buns – even macarons. Good when used to enhance a dish’s lavour, less so when food is made black for the sake of it.
Caged hen eggs Tesco is to stop selling caged hen eggs after a teenager’s petition received more than 280,000 signatures. Sainsbury’s, Marks & Spencer and Waitrose have already done so.
Peruvian cuisine Each month we explore a new restaurant trend key ingredients, dishes and drinks to go with them. This month Tiago Duarte, head chef of Chicama, the Peruvianinspired seafood restaurant, explains what you need to know. chicamalondon.com @chicamalondon Ají amarillo A yellow chilli, normally used raw in sauces, with a very fresh lavour. Ají panca A Peruvian pepper with a mild heat. Annatto An orange-red condiment and food colouring from achiote tree seeds, with a slightly nutty, sweet lavour and a peppery inish. We use it in burned butter for grilled ish. Arroz chaufa A fried rice dish that is a mix of Peruvian and Chinese cuisines. Ceviche Fresh, raw ish cured in citrus juices and spiced with chilli peppers. Pisco Peru’s national drink, made by distilling grape wine into a high-proof spirit. Mix with egg white, sugar and lemon juice for a pisco sour. Purple corn Normally used to make chicha morada, a refreshing, non-alcoholic drink. It’s full of antioxidants but is very starchy. Tamale A traditional South American dish made of ‘masa’ starchy dough steamed in a corn
14 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Pisco sour oysters
husk or banana leaf. Tamales can be illed with meats, cheeses, fruits, vegetables or chillies. Ours is healthier: trout in banana leaf with red quinoa, mango and ají limo (hot chilli) sauce. Tiger’s milk The Peruvian name for the citrus-based marinade that cures the seafood in a ceviche. Tiradito This dish of raw ish in a spicy sauce re lects the in luence of Japanese immigrants on Peruvian food. It differs from ceviche in two ways: it is sliced, while ceviche is cubed; and tiradito is sauced immediately before service – hence raw – while ceviche is marinated beforehand, so ‘cooked’.
Family LILY BARCLAY Barometer ANNA LAWSON Photographs INTRICATE ICINGS CAKE DESIGN AND ALI N GARRETT PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY, STUART OVENDEN
A taste of autumn Sloe gin cocktail SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins plus cooling COOK 5 mins EASY V
50ml sloe gin 25ml lemon juice 25ml gin ice (crushed and cubes) For the juniper syrup 100g white caster sugar 1 tbsp juniper berries
1 Start by making the juniper syrup. Put the sugar in a small saucepan, then add 100ml water and the juniper berries. Bring to the boil,
then take off the heat and gently squash the berries in the liquid using a potato masher. Leave to steep until completely cold, then strain into a sterilised bottle or jar. Will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. 2 Put the sloe gin, lemon juice, gin and 2 tsp of the syrup in a cocktail shaker with a few ice cubes. Shake well and strain into a tumbler filled with crushed ice. Serve immediately. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 198 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 13g • sugars 13g • ibre 0.4g • protein 0.2g • salt none
Recipe MIRIAM NICE Photograph and food styling CLARE WINFIELD Styling WEI TANG
Every autumn, British hedgerows heave with sloes, and have done so since the 17th century. The saying goes that you should wait until the irst frost before picking these teeny tart plums. However, seasons are often much milder these days, so the best thing is to ill your boots, bags and baskets, then pop them in the freezer overnight instead. This will simulate the irst frost, helping to split the skins and release the juices. Sloe gin is easy to make, but takes at least two months to infuse ( ind a recipe at bbcgoodfood.com), and shop-bought is just as good for this cocktail. We’ve based this recipe on a gin Bramble, classically made with gin, lemon juice, sugar syrup and crème de mûre (blackberry liqueur). Here the botanical gin notes are cranked up with a juniper-infused syrup, resulting in a sweet, sharp and refreshing autumn tipple.
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 15
Prue Leith The Great British Menu judge has had a glittering career running restaurants and catering companies, founding Leiths cookery school, and writing successful novels.
Top tip from the series? Soak almost any ish or meat in brine before cooking to improve the lavour and texture.
Most memorable dish? Marcus Wareing’s custard tart from the second series, 10 years ago.
BEHIND THE TREND
Biggest change over the years?
Favourite dish at home? Burrata with lavender oil, cracked coriander seeds & blood orange.
Secret ingredient? Pearled spelt and cracked wheat, instead of rice or couscous.
Next UK restaurant on your list? Michael Bremner, who competed for Scotland this year, has a restaurant in Brighton called 64 Degrees, which sounds great. It did well in the National Restaurant Awards – above Heston and Ramsay!
Interesting new ingredient? Lots of chefs are creating unusual lavours using herbs and plants like meadowsweet, Douglas ir, woodruff and oyster leaf. The best is Douglas ir – it’s great if used in moderation, but too much is overpowering, like eating a pine forest!
Great British Menu continues weeknights on BBC Two.
Each month, we take a food trend and explain why it’s the lavour of the month
In the beginning Matcha, a ine green tea powder, has been produced and consumed in Japan for centuries. Buddhist monks used it to help them stay calm and alert during meditation. Its vivid green colour comes from the high levels of chlorophyll produced by growing the tea leaves in
Shackfuyu’s soft-serve matcha ice cream with kanako French toast has become one of London’s cult dishes, and a dedicated Japanese matcha café – Tombo – has opened in London’s Soho (tombocafe.com). Mainstream matcha is becoming available in UK health-food shops, and matcha brownies and patisserie are appearing in cafes. Visit bbcgoodfood.com for recipes, including a Matcha mousse cake. Read more about trends at bbcgoodfood. com/behind-the-trends Natalie Hardwick
£ SLOW COOKER £
Morphy Richards Sear and Stew Slow Cooker, £29.99, morphyrichards.co.uk With a 3.5-litre capacity, this is lightweight and compact enough to store away, but still large enough to feed a family of four. Its hob-proof pot means that meat can be seared in it too, saving on washing-up. Both pot and lid go in the dishwasher, so it’s easy to clean.
Sage by Heston Blumenthal Fast Slow Pro, £199.95, sageappliances.co.uk This 6-litre multi-cooker does it all. A combination of slow cooker and pressure cooker, settings include searing, sautéing, reducing and steaming. Pick from a list of dishes on the LCD screen and the work is done for you. Food can be kept hot for up to two hours after cooking.
16 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Matcha photograph GETTY
Chefs have become more skilled and imaginative, putting huge time and energy into concepts, rather than just doing what they usually do in their restaurants.
the shade, a method that also boosts the antioxidants. Then The health bene its of matcha quickly struck a chord with the wellbeing crowd the world over. With 10 times the antioxidants of regular green tea, it graduated from simply being combined with water to being sold in health-food stores as a superfood ingredient for use in baking and desserts. Now Matcha has well and truly hit the restaurant and social media scene – that bright green is Instagram gold! Bone Daddies pop-up
More for you
TV EDITOR’S CHOICE This month’s picks from Kathryn Custance
Programme information correct at time of going to press. Please check Radio Times, radiotimes.com or bbc.co.uk for transmission dates
SATURDAY KITCHEN LIVE Matt Tebbutt hosts the irst Saturday Kitchen Live in October with guest chef Ken Hom and BBC Good Food contributing editor Rosie Birkett. On the following Saturday, 8 October, John Torode is back with Spanish tapas king Omar Allibhoy and Elizabeth Allen, head chef at Pidgin in London. Irish cook Donal Skehan will host shows on 15 and 29 October, with Rick Stein presenting on 22 October.
GF SHOWS Discover a BBC Good Food Show near you – ind out more on page 92. Subscribers save 20% on tickets!
FOOD PROGRAMME THE HEAT IS ON! There’s plenty of competitive cooking this month, as the countdown begins to the inal of The Great British Bake Off (above), on 26 October on BBC One. While over on BBC Two, we will inally discover which of the chefs’ extraordinary dishes make it to the Great British Menu banquet on 28 October. Plus, catch the inal few episodes of The Hairy Bikers’ Chicken & Egg series, Tuesday evenings on BBC Two.
This month, the Food Programme follows the food stories of Syrian refugees living in the UK. There will also be an episode about cooking for people with dementia, and the role nutrition can play in prevention and palliative care. Catch the Food Programme on Sundays at 12.30pm (repeated at 3.30pm on Mondays). Also on Radio 4, Jay Rayner and his fellow experts continue to tour the UK, answering the culinary conundrums of local audiences in The Kitchen Cabinet on Saturdays at 10.30am.
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Inkhead plate, £55, and mug, £17, rume.co.uk Inspired by the Mexican Day of the Dead festival on 31 October.
GET SPIRALIZING Good Food Eat Well Spiralizer Recipes (£4.99, BBC Books) is out now, packed with 100 inspiring recipes. SPOOKY SPECIAL Thought Halloween was for kids? Think again! Download our exclusive and free murder mystery game pack from bbcgoodfood.com for a dinner party to remember. Find the recipes on p104.
1 2 OCT Polesden Lacey Food Festival, Surrey fantasticbritishfoodfestivals.com O 1 16 OCT Heligan Harvest, The Lost Gardens of Heligan, Cornwall heligan.com O 1 31 OCT London Restaurant Festival londonrestaurantfestival.com O 2 OCT Forest Showcase Food & Drink Festival, Forest of Dean forestshowcase.org O 8 9 OCT Monmouthshire Food Festival, monmouthshirefoodfestival.co.uk O 9 11 OCT Hertford Food & Drink Festival hertford.gov.uk O 13 16 OCT Falmouth Oyster Festival falmouthoysterfestival.co.uk O 14 16 OCT BBC Good Food Show, Northern Ireland bbcgoodfoodshow.com O 21 23 OCT Dartmouth Food Festival dartmouthfoodfestival.com O 22 23 OCT Vegfest UK, Olympia London londonvegfest.co.uk O
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 17
A hot new Thai restaurant, must-drink Malbec and why we're short of chefs
NEW BUTCHERS ON THE BLOCK After years of being an endangered species, the trade is having a revival. Five innovative butchers tell us why interviews DEBORA ROBERTSON portraits JENNY LEWIS and MARTIN HUNTER
Rachel Hammond, based in the Scottish Borders, sells rare-breed meat, including mutton and roe deer V
Quality meat is a must for many cooks, with three-quarters of us saying weâ€™d like to see a good butcher on our high street, according to our latest Good Food Nation survey (see p22). Happily, the number of independent butchers is on the increase, with many offering a wider variety of cuts, easy-to-cook options as well as rare-breed meat. A few will even cook your meat for you!
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 19
PRIME CUTS & RARE BREEDS Rachel Hammond (previous page) worked in IT before becoming a butcher charcutier four years ago. She’s based in Eyemouth in the Scottish Borders and sells most of her meat at Edinburgh Farmers' Market. hammondcharcuterie.co.uk
My butchery differs from the traditional UK style, as I cut like a European butcher. It’s called seam-butchery and it doesn’t use cleavers or saws. Instead the carcasses are split down anatomical lines of the muscles using sharp knives, and sections are sometimes pulled apart by hand. This creates cuts such as the pork pluma steak, which you’d find in Spain, or beef cuts such as bavette or jumeau found in France. As a small operation, I make the most of unusual carcasses that don’t fit into the conventional butchery production line. An example is huge 200kg cull sows which, if they’re rare breed and wholly outdoor, are beautifully fat and have an ultra-deep taste. Shetland mutton from conservation grazing is some of the finest meat in the world, but it’s too small a production to interest a supermarket. I cure whole legs of venison and turn it into venison 'ham' too. It takes about seven months to air-dry. I love my work. It’s quiet and calm, and the different characteristics of each carcass define what I do with it. TRY SOMETHING NEW Rare breed, outdoor pork: after that, nothing will convince you to go back to commercial indoor pork. And if you can find it, try cockerel – it's what the French use for coq au vin. BEST-VALUE CUT Offal. Cook liver pink so it’s not tough, and kidneys cooked in dry oloroso sherry are sublime. ASK ME TO Cut a Boston butt, the top of the pork shoulder, which is interlaced with fat and tastier than ham or belly. Rub it all over with a couple of teaspoons of salt, cook it long and slow, then crisp up the crackling under the grill.
THE EAT-IN BUTCHER Tom Richardson Hill is the butcher at Hill & Szrok at Broadway Market, in London’s East End. With his business partners, chef Alex Szrok and restaurateur Luca MathiszigLee, he has revived the medieval tradition of a butcher and cookshop. By day a busy shop, in the evening, the marble butcher’s block becomes the communal dining table for hungry hordes. hillandszrok.co.uk
Lots of people ask where our meat comes from, about special breeds and how long we've aged our beef for. We try and hang the beef for about six weeks on average. I never mind when customers ask me what's good at the moment – that's what we're here for. Want us to bone out all the chicken thighs? That's fine. I believe that's what makes it a better experience than buying something off a supermarket shelf.
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Having the restaurant helps too. We do a lot of offal starters, so you can have a few bits and just taste it. When people realise it's really good, they buy some next time they’re in the shop to cook at home. TRY SOMETHING NEW Ox heart. We trim it, slice it thinly, marinate it in woody herbs, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper, then grill it quickly. BEST-VALUE CUT For a really tasty, great-value steak, you can’t go wrong with bavette. ASK ME TO I’m always happy to cut up chicken for customers. It’s much better and cheaper to buy a whole bird rather than separate pieces. We can prep it and wrap it up in separate bags so that you've got two or three meals out of it, instead of just one.
AT THE HEART OF THE VILLAGE The Pointer, a pub in the heart of the Buckinghamshire village of Brill, has its own farm and a butcher’s shop alongside run by Jon Wilkins, creating a seamless journey from ield to block to plate. thepointerbrill.co.uk
We try to be at the heart of the community. We do butchery demonstrations, have an annual sausage-making night, the Brownies and Cubs come in, and we supply our village school with meat. I like people to try new things, so there are weekly specials on the notice board. A popular one now is goose skirt. People say, ‘Is that goose?’ and I say, ‘No, it's another name for flank steak, also called bavette’. I've never had anybody come back and say, ‘Jon, you stitched me up there’. When we're busy, people have to queue and they often chat. If anyone says, ‘This may be a stupid question,’ I say, ‘Nothing’s a stupid question’. You have to give people enough confidence to ask. I live 100 yards from the pub. Our customers are friends and people in the village. My daughters say, ‘Dad, when you're driving through the village to the farm, it’s like being with the Queen. Because you're waving at everybody and they're waving at you’. TRY SOMETHING NEW If they come in for lamb chops, I recommend Barnsley chops (a double-sided chop)– we sell them week in, week out. BEST-VALUE CUT Collar steak – a boneless, skinless, collar steak is a lovely cut, much underrated. ASK ME TO Explain French trimming. People often say that they know what a rack of lamb is but the recipe calls for French trimming. I explain that it means the cut is very closely trimmed to the bone to make it more elegant. If they're still interested, I'll show them how to do it. OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 21
YORKSHIRE PORK & PIES Anthony Sterne comes from a Yorkshire butchery and farming background, and has worked in the meat business in Australia. He returned to Yorkshire to set up a pie business and in 2010, he took over traditional Yorkshire pork butcher Appleton’s, with branches in Ripon, Wetherby and York. appletonsbutchers.co.uk
Appleton’s has been at the heart of Ripon since 1867. We make lots of pork pies – we sell 3,500 every week in Ripon – roast hams, sausages, black pudding, sausage rolls and Scotch eggs. In the York shop, we've been experimenting with recipes for traditional York ham. We're breeding our own Large White pigs specifically for it, because it's quite hard to get British pork the right size. It's dry-cured for about 10 days, then it needs to be aged. Some of the recipes say five weeks, but we've tried it and I think that's too much. I know there's a big movement towards long hanging, but I don't think it suits everybody. Younger customers want to try things at home – making sausages, hams, their own bacon and charcuterie. We've got a lovely Italian lady who makes an Italian sausage with fennel seeds, like finocchiona. I had some fantastic free-range Berkshire pigs last week and one of our customers wanted to make air-dried ham, so we supplied the legs for that. People are also taking trotters to try. Some have been making pork pies and they buy the trotters to make jelly, while others are following recipes for stuffed trotters. We’re doing all of these things that seem new, but they’re exactly what a traditional pork butcher would have done. TRY SOMETHING NEW Pork dripping! Every day, we roast pork belly for the shop and we save all the dripping. If you're making Yorkshire puddings or roast potatoes, put a bit in the roasting tin – it’s just as good as goose fat. BEST-VALUE CUT Pork blade is the most underrated cut. It’s marbled with lovely fat and has
fantastic flavour. Slow-cook it until it falls off the bone. It’s great for pulled pork recipes. ASK ME TO Score your pork joint really well for perfect crackling. I start by scoring it with good, deep cuts. When you get it home, put it in a roasting tin, rub the skin with salt and then leave it, uncovered, in the fridge for a day or two before roasting it. It should be good and dry when it goes in the oven, as that makes all the difference.
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More than three-quarters of us – 78 per cent – would like to see a good butcher on our local high street, according to our latest Good Food Nation survey. Read more about how we shop, cook and eat today with results of our survey at bbcgoodfood.com/good-foodnation or on twitter #gfnation.
THE HIGH STREET MAKEOVER Chris Rogers and his wife, Colette, opened Rogers & Sons in Carmarthen in 2012, and last year won Welsh Butcher of the Year. The winning combination of Chris’s pasture-to-plate ethos, traditional skills and adventurous, modern outlook has made his shop a hit with customers. rogersbutchers.co.uk
People like to see you do the work. Say they want a butterflied leg of lamb for their barbecue – if you're doing something in front of a customer, 90 per cent of the time they’ll say how interesting it is. It gives you the opportunity to talk a bit more about how they plan to cook it. You always know when there's been something on TV. It's often something slow roasted, like brisket or pork belly – things that have been around for years and years, but are coming back into fashion. Our shop is more modern than most – we try to make life easier for people and it seems to be working. We do a lot of oven-ready products – my stepdaughter Robyn makes all the coleslaws, potato salads, the prepared veg in trays, honeyed carrots and Dauphinoise potatoes. We make cottage pies, lasagnes, pasties and stuffed chicken. It’s proper family food. Because of where we are, we always have rabbit and game in season. You may see goat here before long, because a friend of mine has just started a goat farm down in Pembrokeshire. TRY SOMETHING NEW Flat iron steak. This cut has been in restaurants for a while – we still find a new customer who wants to try it almost every day. As long as they like rare steak, in my opinion it’ll be the tastiest cut they’ve ever eaten (see overleaf). BEST VALUE CUT I like LMC (leg of mutton cut) of beef. It’s a reasonably priced, lean joint of beef. When slow roasted, it makes a delicious pulled beef dinner. ASK ME TO Whether it’s a chicken cushion (a whole chicken, boned and stuffed) or a random cut you've seen on TV. As long as you have a picture or a description, we’ll work on something while you wait. Customers often say how therapeutic it is to watch us work on the block. TURN OVER FOR SIX CUTS TO TRY NOW
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SIX CUTS TO TRY NOW 2
1 ONGLET Also known as
5 BREAST OF LAMB An
butcher’s steak – the cut they would take home. A classic French bistro steak, it's great value and has an intense lavour. Why now? As there are only four to six pieces of onglet per animal, it isn’t commercially viable for large-scale distribution, but small artisan butchers are buying whole animals and breaking them down themselves so they can sell more interesting cuts. How to cook Best served medium rare. Fry it in a hot pan for three to four minutes per side, then leave on a warmed plate to rest for 10 minutes. Cut it against the grain to enjoy it at its succulent best. 2 FLAT IRON STEAK So called because it’s the same shape as an old-fashioned lat iron, it’s also known as butler’s steak, oyster blade steak or feather steak. It’s cut from the shoulder blade and has a deep, rich lavour. Why now? Tremendous value for money and just right for relaxed gatherings. It takes marinades well, is good on the barbecue and, cut thinly against the grain, is great for steak sandwiches and tacos. How to cook It’s quite lean so don’t overcook – it’s best done rare to medium. Marinate, then chill for a couple of hours, then cook it for three to four minutes per side and rest for 10 minutes before serving.
underused piece of meat that comprises the lank and part of the belly. It’s fatty, but the fat helps to baste the meat as it cooks. Why now? A very economical cut that – incredibly – was sometimes discarded by butchers because it wasn’t commercial enough for widespread distribution. Smaller butchers appreciate its rich lavour. How to cook Roast low and slow on the bone, or buy boned and rolled and stuff with a dry mixture of breadcrumbs, herbs and lemon zest – this will help to absorb the fat. 6 SWEETBREADS Lamb sweetbreads are creamy and tender with a delicate lavour. This offal comes from the thymus (part of the throat) and the pancreas. How to cook Soak in several changes of cold water for a few hours before simmering them quickly in water. Cool, then trim away any sinew or gristle before sautéing as they are, or dust lightly in lour or breadcrumbs irst.
PORK 3 CHEEKS Also known as Bath chaps, they are meltingly succulent and tender when cooked low and slow. Why now? The perfect example of nose-to-tail eating, pork cheeks are proof that the most unexpected cuts punch way above their weight in terms of lavour and versatility. How to cook Traditionally lightly brined in sugar and water before being slowly braised until tender. Once cooked, they are good cut into small pieces,
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breadcrumbed and fried. Also use in pies and quiches. 4 HAND OF PORK This is the upper part of the pig's foreleg, usually boned and rolled as a small roasting joint, though if you cook it on the bone, it improves its lavour. If you want crackling, ask the butcher to skin the pork, and cook separately until crisp. Why now? Its texture and rich lavour make it ideal for oh-so-fashionable pulled pork. How to cook Whether you roast or braise it, cook it slowly until it’s falling off the bone.
Tweet us @bbcgoodfood to namecheck your favourite butcher and share the most useful tip they've given you. Turn to Test Kitchen for more on butchery on p154.
Photograph TOM REGESTER | Styling AGATHE GITS
behind the headlines
A shortage of chefs ext time you eat at your local Italian, Greek or Indian restaurant, take a moment to think about who’s doing the cooking – or not. Restaurateurs are having a tough time recruiting staff, with almost half of the vacancies (47 per cent) proving difficult to fill, according to the UK Commission for Employment and Skills. Indian restaurants in particular are struggling, with many expected to close next year because they can’t afford to sponsor chefs coming from the subcontinent. If this situation continues, it’s going to be harder to find well cooked, authentic versions of popular cuisines – as opposed to more watered-down versions – when we eat out. Theoretically, being a chef has more status than it used to – television shows have given the job a glamorous air. In reality most restaurant chefs work 70-80 hours a week, doing split shifts with rarely a weekend off. So it’s hardly surprising that retaining staff has never been easy. However, recent restrictions on recruitment from abroad have made it considerably harder. To obtain a temporary visa for a skilled chef from outside the European Union, an employer must pay him or her £29,000 a year (after deductions for accommodation and meals). Restaurants with a takeaway element are penalised further, as they don’t qualify for this visa scheme. A chef can only get a permanent visa if the restaurant can pay £35,000, which is way beyond the means of most independent businesses. All this is a problem for an industry that depends heavily on foreign staff – 42% of chefs working here at present are non-UK
Portrait ALAN PEEBLES
'TV shows have given the job a glamorous air. In reality, most chefs work 70-80 hours a week'
A lack of trained kitchen staff may force your local restaurant to close, warns Joanna Blythman
nationals, according to the workforce development charity, People 1st. Nearly half are from EU countries and there are concerns that further restrictions will escalate this shortage. It’s not just that we need a regular infusion of fresh talent from the mother countries to give us a reasonably authentic taste of the diverse world cuisines we’ve become accustomed to. It’s also that chefs from abroad are now the backbone of the catering business, even in restaurants that seem British to the core. Also, regardless of where they come from, many chefs struggle with the cost of living, particularly in the capital. When chef and restaurateur Angela Hartnett asked her young, London-based recruits what would improve their situation, many said transport. As housing is so expensive, more and more restaurant staff are forced to live outside central London and face a long journey home after an already long shift. She was a keen advocate of the recently launched 24-hour Tube, which means many workers' journeys are now cheaper. So what’s the solution? Many restaurateurs and recruiters argue that the only way to fill vacancies from abroad is by relaxing immigration rules for chefs. However, the UK hospitality industry reckons it needs to recruit an additional 22,000 chefs by 2022, so there are plenty of opportunities for youngsters or retrainers living in the UK. For anyone with British citizenship who has always fancied a career at the stove, now is the time to apply. Their prospects of finding a job have never looked better.
Good Food contributing editor Joanna is an award-winning food journalist who has written on the subject for 25 years. She is also a regular contributor to BBC Radio 4. @joannablythman
Giving staff a helping hand Meanwhile, some restaurateurs are doing their best to make the job more attractive. Nottingham-based chef Sat Bains has pioneered a four-day working week at his Michelin-starred Restaurant Sat Bains with Rooms, while others are stopping service on quiet days to reduce chefs' hours. Catering colleges that run three-year chef diplomas include Westminster Kingsway (westking.ac.uk) and Weymouth, which runs the Hix Academy set up by Mark Hix (weymouth.ac.uk/ facilities/hix-academy), and Bournemouth & Poole (thecollege. co.uk). We'd love to hear your views on this subject. Contact us at hello@bbcgoodfood magazine.com
Next month Joanna tackles food banks
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Som Saa W
'Ox cheeks, salted for 24 hours, are so melting you could almost slurp them through a straw'
Marina O’Loughlin kicks off our new restaurant review with fresh, vibrant Thai dishes at Som Saa
hen Som Saa first landed in Climpson’s Arch, the coffee roastery in a grimy backstreet in London’s Hackney, I fell in love. I hadn’t had such a Thai thrill ride since Songkran Festival in Patpong. In fact, not since Thai evangelist David Thompson’s Nahm had I experienced such a marriage of fine ingredients to uncompromising sour/sweet/incendiary flavours. It’s no surprise to hear that chef-owner Andy Oliver worked under Thompson – and at Bangkok’s wonderful Bo.Lan. But could this, the ‘difficult second album’ and first permanent site for the team, fulfil the promise? The place, bigger than I expect with its expansive front bar and sultry backroom restaurant, is heaving. The first thing that hits you is the grill’s fragrance – laden with their much-loved grilled chicken legs with tamarind, and street-food favourite pork neck (mu yaang), nicely fat-marbled so it’s juicily tender and smoky, caramelised until medium-well done, with a sour, fiery green nahm jim dressing laced with a variety of green chillies. The promised ‘uncompromising flavours’ rarely let up. Even with salads: Isaan-style som tam is a shimmering powerhouse of snake beans, unripe papaya and tomatoes, all pounded together so their goodness leaches into a dressing thick with pla-raa, a fermented fish sauce delivering an almost cheesy intensity. There’s lime, too, and the ferocious smack
of lethal little scud chillies. This is not the place to come if you’re after a nice green curry. There’s no cutting corners: no tins of coconut cream or pre-made curry pastes. The insane freshness and vividness of the ingredients, the garlands of fresh herbs scattered over a fiercelooking, deep-fried seabass crunchy with toasted rice powder, the heady sourness of the in-house fermenation, the masochistic pleasure of the weapons-grade chillies – it all adds up to an experience that verges on the pyrotechnic. But it’s not all pow-biff-whammo. Ox cheeks, salted for 24 hours, so melting you could almost slurp them through a straw, come in a balmy coconut-based sauce, topped with a scattering of peanuts and lime leaves. It’s like Germolene for the tongue after the assault of the som tam. And we probably shouldn’t have ordered chicken with chrysanthemum greens & yellow bean sauce as our last dish: its subtlety turns it into a bit of a wallflower. There’s a generosity about Som Saa: dishes are easily shareable, and flawless sticky rice, served wrapped in polythene in little bamboo kratip khao (rice baskets) as it is in Isaan – is unlimited. Staff radiate good humour, even when they can’t hear a word we’re saying. Because oh my bleeding eardrums – the noise. Potted palms and carnivorous plants are all very lovely, but not great racket absorbers. When I worked in ‘cool’ restaurants, we used to mock the poor souls who begged us to turn the music down; I think the Som Saa-induced ringing in my ears is poetic justice. Anyway, you can’t dial down the clamour of happy customers, hopped up on cocktails and the mood-enhancing power of chilli. Am I as blown away as I was by the original pop-up? Perhaps a shade less. Perhaps it’s the weight of expectations, perhaps sheer numbers: faced with ravening hordes, and with food cooked to order, it’s tricky to get timings perfect. (That sea bass needed a whisper less cooking.) But this is still one of the most exciting restaurants in the country right now – as far removed from your average high street, bottled-sweet-chilli Thai as the Daniel Boulud DB burger is to Maccy D’s. Just remember to bring your ear trumpets. About £60 for two, somsaa.com 43a Commercial Street, Spitalfields, London E1 6BD
Contributing editor Marina O’Loughlin, who reviews restaurants for Good Food and The Guardian Weekend, is one of the most respected food writers in the UK, particularly as she insists on visiting every restaurant anonymously. For more from Marina, visit bbcgoodfoodmagazine.com @marinaoloughlin @marinagpoloughlin Next month Marina reviews Wilsons in Bristol
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 29
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the new drink rules
Why we’re mad about malbec
Portrait CLARA MOLDEN
he first time I went to Argentina, I drank malbec and ate steaks as big as my head every night for a week. Actually, that’s not quite true. I drank malbec and ate steak as big as my head every lunchtime for a week. One night some kind person fed me fish instead. And I got full but didn’t really get bored; I loved this luscious bear-hug of a red that tastes of swollen mulberries, fragrant violets, black licorice and leather, and that goes so well with beef – and especially with beef from cattle raised on the Argentine Pampas. Still, however much I loved malbec, I didn’t guess back then how much we would take it to our hearts. Our thirst for this grape seems to be unquenchable. Sales of malbec rose by 24 per cent last year – even more impressive when you consider that we drank less wine overall. Malbec is a grape that hails from France, where it was once widely planted in Bordeaux, and is famously used to make the deep, tannic wines of Cahors. But it has
Wine editor Victoria Moore explains the appeal of this robust red – so right with autumnal pot-roasts and pies
been reinvented in Argentina – and it’s the Latin American Malbec, not the French, that everyone has fallen for. Malbec is a success story for Argentina in the same way that sauvignon blanc is for New Zealand: it’s a modern classic. I like the traditional style of cahors, but it can taste so intensely tannic that it feels like being trapped in a pothole – a long way from light. The Latin Americans reinvented the grape, and when they did so they made it generous and velvety, and filled it with southernhemisphere sun. Malbec from Argentina tastes warm and luscious. 'It’s so appealing across the board,' says Laithwaite's buyer Beth Willard. 'Drinkers know what they're getting: a wine packed full of plush, ripe fruits that is seriously good value for money.' Not all malbec is good though. Some of it tastes creosote-y and is like an assault on the mouth. I like two broad types of Argentine malbec. First, smooth, juicy wines, with just a suggestion of cloves and spicy oak. Two of the best are sold by Majestic. Alamos Malbec 2015, Catena, Mendoza, Argentina (£8.99, or £6.99 in the Mix Six deal until 24 October) and Hey Malbec! 2015, Matias Riccitelli, Mendoza, Argentina (£12.99, or £9.99 in the Mix Six deal until 24 October) are both brilliant. I also like the more leathery wines; the ones that taste of earth and gnarled branches, but that still have that transfusion of sunshine – look for the Argentine producers Mendel (also sold by Majestic) and Achaval-Ferrer (from Corney & Barrow). Of course, imitation is the best form of flattery, and the Australians are getting in on the act too: Wolf Blass now has a Yellow Label malbec (£10, Morrisons), and very good it is too. For a great red wine offer, turn to p81
What I’m drinking this month British Cassis (around £12 for 200ml or £20 for 500ml, visit thewhiteheron.co.uk for stockists) It’s retro, it’s delicious. Made with blackcurrants grown in Herefordshire, add British cassis to a glass of sharp white wine for a mean kir. The smart new livery on frosted glass looks good in the kitchen too.
What to eat with...
Pizarras de Otero 2015 Bierzo, Spain (£7.99, or £6.99 in the Mix Six deal, Majestic) From fashionable Bierzo in northwestern Spain, this savoury red is made from mencía. Serve it alongside the fried hake with peppers on p132.
Les Andides Saumur Blanc 2015 France (£7.99, Waitrose) A refreshing white made from chenin blanc, it tastes of apples and pears. Try it with the Pork & apple stew with parsley & thyme dumplings on p80.
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Food styling XXXXXXXXXX Styling XXXXXXXXXX
What to cook now, from our easiest-ever midweek meals to menus and bakes
eat well every day, p64
be inspired, p102
food stories, p95 OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 33
Celebrate the change of seasons with some indulgent cooking. These decadent new recipes are perfect for whiling away rainy days in your kitchen and cosy evenings on the sofa photographs PETER CASSIDY recipes CASSIE BEST Cassie Best, our Senior food editor, trained as a chef at Leiths School of Food and Wine. Over the past ive years she has written hundreds of recipes for Good Food. @cassiecooks
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Melting meatball macaroni, p38
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Spicy lamb keema pau, p38 36 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Banana, pecan & bourbon self-saucing pud, p40 OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 37
cover recipe Melting meatball macaroni Anything containing pasta and stringy cheese qualifies as comfort food in my book, and this dish is my ultimate – melty cheese-stuffed meatballs in a sea of rich tomato sauce and macaroni. Italians may shudder at the ratio of sauce to pasta, but the sauciness means you have more than enough left to mop up with a chunk of crusty bread. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
300g pork mince 400g beef mince (with around 10% fat) 1 /2 tsp fennel seeds 1 /2 tsp chilli lakes 2 tsp dried oregano 200g taleggio or mozzarella, chopped into small chunks
Spicy lamb keema pau This is my take on a popular Indian street-food dish – keema pau (or pav). You might have heard of keema curry (spicy stewed lamb, chicken or mutton mince). This takes the comfort factor up a notch by stuffing the spicy meat into a soft roll like an Indian Sloppy Joe. I serve it with a runny fried egg. You can make the buns and lamb up to a day ahead. Be prepared to get messy eating these bad boys – bibs are advised! SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins plus at least 1 hr 30 mins rising COOK 1 hr 20 mins A CHALLENGE
2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 red chilli, inely chopped (deseeded if you don’t like it too spicy) 700g lamb mince 1 tbsp tomato purée 2 tsp medium curry powder 1 tbsp plain lour 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 tbsp mango chutney 4 eggs chopped coriander leaves, shallots and shredded carrot, to serve For the cumin buns 250ml full-fat milk 1 tsp clear honey
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2 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, inely chopped 4 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tsp tomato purée 50ml red wine 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 500ml passata 3 bay leaves 2 tsp golden caster sugar 400g macaroni or other pasta shape crusty bread, to serve (optional)
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Mix the pork and beef mince with the fennel seeds, chilli, 1 tsp oregano and some seasoning in a large bowl until combined. Divide and shape into 18 meatballs with a nugget or two of taleggio in the middle (save some for the top), then chill for 10 mins. 2 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large pan (use a flameproof casserole dish if you can – it’ll save on washing up). Add the onion and a pinch of salt and sizzle until softened, about 8 mins. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 min
25g butter, chopped 400g strong white bread lour 2 tsp cumin seeds, plus a pinch for sprinkling over 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast 1 egg, beaten
1 First, make the buns. Heat the milk and honey in a saucepan until steaming. Add the butter, then set aside to cool. Mix the flour, cumin, yeast and 1 tsp salt in a large bowl. Add the cooled milk mixture and stir to form a dough. Tip the dough onto a work surface and knead for 10 mins until soft and stretchy, or mix with a dough hook in a tabletop mixer for 5 mins. Return to the cleaned bowl, cover with cling film and set aside to rise for 1-2 hrs or until doubled in size. 2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large pan. Add the onion and cook for 5 mins until soft. Add the garlic and chilli, stir for 1-2 mins, then tip in the lamb. Brown the mince all over, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, then add the tomato purée, curry powder and flour and cook for 2-3 mins more. Add the chopped tomatoes and mango chutney along with 150ml water, season well, cover and cook for 30 mins (add some more water if the mince looks too dry). 3 When the dough has risen, knock out the air and divide into eight equal
more, then add the tomato purée, wine, tomatoes, passata, bay leaves, sugar remaining oregano and lots of seasoning, cover with a lid and simmer for 20 mins. Meanwhile, arrange the meatballs on a baking tray lined with foil, drizzle with the remaining oil and bake for 10 mins. 3 Cook the pasta in a pan of boiling salted water according to packet instructions, then drain, reserving some water. If the pan is not ovenproof, tip the sauce into a casserole dish. Stir the pasta into the sauce along with the liquid from the meatballs and some pasta water if it needs thinning. Turn the grill to a medium-high setting. 4 Nestle the meatballs into the pasta, so that they poke out the top. Scatter the remaining taleggio over the top and grill for 5-10 mins until the cheese and meatballs are golden. Serve with crusty bread, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW 2 of 5-a-day • ibre PER SERVING 646 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 11g • carbs 40g • sugars 9g • ibre 5g • protein 36g • salt 1.8g
pieces. Shape into balls by pinching and tucking the edges into the centre, then flip over so the smooth side is on top. Arrange on one or two baking sheets lined with baking parchment. Squash each bun a little with your palm – they should be about 8cm in diameter. Cover loosely with oiled cling film and leave to rise for 30 mins or until almost doubled in size. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. 4 Check the consistency of the mince – it should be thicker than a ragu. If it’s too runny, remove the lid and continue cooking until the sauce has reduced. 5 Uncover the rolls, brush with the beaten egg and sprinkle with cumin seeds. Bake for 20-25 mins until golden brown, the transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool. If making a day ahead, store in an airtight container. 6 To serve, fry the eggs to your liking. Split the buns and lightly toast the cut sides under the grill. Pile in the spicy lamb, fried eggs, coriander, shallot and carrot. Serve with extra mango chutney and tuck in with plenty of napkins to hand. GOOD TO KNOW iron • folate • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 1,016 kcals • fat 43g • saturates 17g • carbs 96g • sugars 16g • ibre 6g • protein 59g • salt 1.1g
Catherine wheel toad-in-the-hole with honey & mustard onions, p40
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Banana, pecan & bourbon self-saucing pud Also known as magic pudding! When you pour the hot sugary mixture over the pudding batter, you might think you’re headed for a kitchen disaster, but keep calm – the syrup will sink to the bottom while the pudding cooks, creating a puddle of runny caramel sauce. SERVES 6 8 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins EASY
100g butter, melted, plus extra for greasing 275g self-raising lour 1 tsp baking powder 300g soft light brown sugar 100g pecans, chopped 4 small bananas 250ml full-fat milk 3 large eggs 2 tbsp bourbon or dark rum 4 tbsp golden syrup ice cream or custard, to serve
1 Boil the kettle and heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease a rectangular baking dish with butter (ours was 20cm x 28cm and 4cm deep). Tip the flour, baking powder, 140g sugar, most of the pecans (save a handful) and 1/2 tsp salt into a bowl. Mash one banana in another bowl, add the butter, milk, eggs and bourbon and whisk together. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and mix well. Scrape into the baking dish and level the surface. 2 Slice the remaining bananas lengthways and place on top of the pudding batter, cut-side up. Scatter over the remaining pecans. Mix the remaining 160g sugar with the golden syrup, add 300ml boiling water and stir until the sugar dissolves. Pour the hot liquid over the pudding, then put on the middle shelf of the oven and bake for 1 hr until the top is set and the sauce is starting to bubble around the edges. Serve with ice cream or custard, or both. PER SERVING (8) 570 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 9g • carbs 79g • sugars 52g • ibre 3g • protein 8g • salt 0.9g
Catherine wheel toad-inthe-hole with honey & mustard onions Just the thing for Bonfire Night. Serve this with creamy mash and shredded cabbage or cavolo nero. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus resting COOK 40 mins EASY
120g plain lour 3 large eggs 275ml semi-skimmed milk 12 linked chipolatas or 1 large coiled Cumberland sausage 2 tbsp sun lower oil 4 rosemary or thyme sprigs, picked into smaller sprigs mash and veg, to serve (optional) For the honey & mustard onions 1 tbsp sun lower oil 2 large red onions, halved and thinly sliced 2 tbsp plain lour 2 tsp English mustard powder 1 chicken stock cube 2 tbsp honey 2 tbsp wholegrain mustard
1 Mix the flour, eggs and milk in a jug with 1/2 tsp salt, then set aside for at least 30 mins. Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. 2 Untwist the links between each sausage, keeping them connected. Squeeze the meat to fill in the gaps, so you have one long sausage. Coil the sausage loosely and put in a large skillet or ovenproof frying pan (ours was 25cm wide.) Pour over the oil and brown in the oven for 12-15 mins. 3 Remove the pan from the oven and carefully lift out the sausage. Pour the batter into the pan, then put the sausage back on top, scatter with the herbs and return to the oven for 25-30 mins without opening the door – the Yorkshire pudding will sink if you do. 4 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan and cook the onions for 10 mins or until starting to caramelise. Stir in the flour and mustard powder and crumble in the stock cube. Stir in 500ml water bit by bit until you get a smooth sauce, then add the honey and mustard and season. Bubble for 5 mins, then serve with the toad-in-the-hole and mash and veg, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • calcium • ibre PER SERVING 591 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 8g • carbs 57g • sugars 19g • ibre 6g • protein 23g • salt 3.0g
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Chocolate, peanut butter & pretzel cookie bars You don’t have to wait for these cookie bars to cool down before tucking in – follow my lead and serve them warm from the oven with salted caramel ice cream. MAKES 15 PREP 20 mins COOK 20 mins EASY
175g butter, softened, plus extra for greasing 200g soft light brown sugar 100g golden caster sugar 1 tbsp vanilla extract 2 large eggs, beaten 250g plain lour 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 2 tbsp full-fat milk 150g dark chocolate, chopped into chunks 100g chunky peanut butter 50g small salted pretzels 1 /2 tsp sea salt lakes
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line a 20cm square baking tin with baking parchment. Tip the butter, sugars and vanilla extract into a bowl and beat with an electric hand whisk until smooth and creamy. Add the eggs bit by bit, beating well between each addition. Stir in the flour, bicarb and 1/4 tsp salt until the mixture forms a dough, then add the milk and 100g chocolate chunks. 2 Spoon half the mixture into the tin, add the peanut butter in dollops to cover the surface, then top with the remaining dough. Use your fingers to press everything down, but don’t worry about it looking too neat. Arrange the pretzels on top and bake for 20 mins until the dough is set and crisp on the surface. Leave to cool in the tin. 3 Melt the remaining chocolate in a bowl over a small pan of gently simmering water, or in short bursts in the microwave. Remove the bars from the tin and drizzle with the chocolate, then sprinkle with the sea salt. Leave to set, then cut into bars. Will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days. PER BAR 328 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 9g • carbs 38g • sugars 22g • ibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.8g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 41
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Domino potato, cod, prawn & chorizo pie Childhood favourites go hand-inhand with favourite comfort foods, and fish pie is one of mine. I’ve updated the classic recipe, giving it a Spanish twist and a dominoeffect potato topping. The saffron and chorizo add a real depth of flavour, and the fennel goes wonderfully with seafood. SERVES 6 PREP 45 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins MORE EFFORT
850g loury potatoes, such as Maris Piper 500g cod illet, skin and pin bones removed 650ml full-fat milk 26 bay leaves good pinch of saffron 1 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle 50g butter 1 large onion, halved and inely sliced 1 fennel, quartered and inely sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 200g chorizo ring, skin removed and sliced 50g plain lour small bunch parsley, chopped 200g king prawns, peeled green veg or salad, to serve
1 Peel and thinly slice the potatoes, tip into a pan of cold water and bring to a simmer. Turn off the heat, leave the potatoes in the water for 1 min, then drain and leave to cool in a colander. The potatoes should still feel firm and hold their shape. Put the cod in a wide, deep pan and pour over the milk. Add 2 bay leaves and saffron and bring to a gentle simmer, cover with a lid, then lower the heat and cook for 2 mins. Turn off the heat and leave the fish in the pan to continue cooking for 5 mins more. 2 Heat the oil and butter in another large pan, add the onion and fennel and cook for 10 mins until starting to caramelise. Add the garlic and chorizo, stir until the oils are released, then stir in the flour. 3 Remove the fish from the milk and set aside the bay leaves. Add the milk to the chorizo pan bit by bit, stirring between additions, until you have a smooth, thick sauce. Stir in the parsley, season and remove from the heat. 4 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Pour half of the sauce into a large
casserole dish. Flake the fish into large chunks and scatter over the sauce. Add the prawns and spoon over the rest of the sauce. 5 Stack 5-6 potato slices together and trim off the edges to create a rectangle– don’t worry if it’s not perfect. Continue making stacks of rectangular potatoes until they’re all used up. Scatter the trimmings over the sauce, then arrange the slices on top in a domino pattern, fanning them out to cover the surface. Tuck the reserved bay leaves and four others in among the potatoes, season and drizzle with oil. Bake for 45 mins until the potatoes are tender and golden and the sauce is bubbling up around the edges. Serve with green veg or salad. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 537 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 11g • carbs 40g • sugars 9g • ibre 5g • protein 36g • salt 1.8g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 43
Mexican chicken tortilla soup I first tried this classic South American soup in Texas, where Mexican food is big news, and I loved the complex flavours and textures. As soon as I got home, I set about cracking the dish. For a really intense stock, buy the best-quality chicken you can afford – preferably organic. If you can make the soup the day before serving, the flavours will only get better.
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SERVES 8 PREP 40 mins plus cooling COOK 1 hr 20 mins MORE EFFORT
1.2kg whole chicken 5 fat red chillies, 4 left whole but pieced a few times with a sharp knife, 1 sliced, to serve 2 dried ancho chillies 1 garlic bulb, cut in half through the centre horizontally bunch coriander, stalks and leaves separated 1 cinnamon stick 3 tbsp veg oil 2 large onions, chopped
1 Put the chicken in a large pan with the whole and dried chillies, garlic, coriander stalks and cinnamon, cover with cold water, then set over a medium heat. When the liquid comes to the boil, reduce to a gentle simmer and cover with a lid. Cook for 30 mins, then turn off the heat and leave the chicken in the stock to cool for 20 mins. 2 Remove the chicken, strain the liquid into a large jug (you should have about 800ml) and discard the aromatics. Return the liquid to the pan and simmer until it has reduced to about 600ml, then pour back into the jug. 3 Heat 1 tbsp oil in the pan, add the onion and cook for 8-10 mins until soft and translucent, then stir in the spices, tomatoes and sugar. Add the chicken stock to the pan, season well and simmer with the lid ajar for 30 mins. 4 While the soup cooks, remove the skin from the chicken and finely shred the meat. Add to the soup along with the sweetcorn, beans, lime zest and juice to taste (save a little to toss through the avocado), and cook for 5 mins more. 5 Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan and add the tortilla pieces. Fry until golden and crispy, then drain on kitchen paper. Halve and peel the avocado, cut into small chunks and toss through the remaining lime juice. Serve the soup in bowls topped with the crispy tortillas, coriander leaves, sliced chilli, avocado and feta. GOOD TO KNOW 3 of 5-a-day • ibre PER SERVING 483 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 7g • carbs 26g • sugars 11g • ibre 10g • protein 35g • salt 1.4g
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling LUIS PERAL
1 tbsp ground cumin 1 tbsp ground coriander 1 tbsp smoked paprika 2 x 400g cans tomatoes 1 tsp sugar 320g can sweetcorn, drained 400g can black beans, drained zest and juice 2 limes 4 corn tortillas, quartered and cut into strips 2 avocados 200g feta or queso fresco, crumbled, to serve
Tom’s autumn kitchen Be inspired by fresh, new-season produce with these exclusive recipes from the BBC chef recipes TOM KERRIDGE photographs PETER CASSIDY
Good Food’s contributing editor Tom Kerridge is chef-owner of The Hand & Flowers and The Coach pub – both in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. Each month he creates exclusive new seasonal recipes for us. @ChefTomKerridge
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Lavender poached pear with Poire Williams pudding, p51 OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 47
Pumpkin & bacon soup Check your local farmers’ market for Crown Prince pumpkins – they have a silvery, blue-green skin and sweet, firm flesh. Butternut or onion squash are a good alternative. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins EASY G without garnishes
1 tbsp vegetable oil 50g butter 1 onion, inely chopped 150g maple-cured bacon, cut into small pieces 1 /2 Crown Prince pumpkin or onion squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into medium chunks (you need about 500g pumpkin lesh) 1 litre chicken stock 100ml double cream 3 tbsp pumpkin seeds, toasted maple syrup, for drizzling
1 In a large, heavy-bottomed pan, heat the oil with 25g butter. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook on a low heat for 10 mins or until soft. Add 60g bacon and cook for a further 5 mins until the bacon releases its fat. Then increase the heat to medium, add the pumpkin and stock and season. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer, cover with a lid and cook for about 40 mins until the pumpkin is soft. Pour in the cream, bring to the boil again and remove from the heat. Set aside some of the liquid, then blend the remaining pumpkin until smooth and velvety, adding liquid back into the pan bit by bit as you go (add more liquid if you like it thinner). Strain through a fine sieve, check the seasoning and set aside. 2 Melt the remaining butter in a pan over a high heat and fry the rest of the bacon with black pepper for 5 mins. Divide the bacon between four bowls, reheat the soup and pour over. To serve, sprinkle over the pumpkin seeds and drizzle with maple syrup. GOOD TO KNOW 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 557 kcals • fat 43g • saturates 20g • carbs 19g • sugars 12g • ibre 5g • protein 21g • salt 2.2g
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Whole baked celeriac with walnuts & blue cheese Full of flavour and texture, this makes a great side for a roast. SERVES 8 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr 30 mins MORE EFFORT V
1 large celeriac (about 800g-1kg) 60g walnuts, toasted and chopped 1 tsp thyme leaves 100g blue cheese, crumbled 50g butter, chopped 100ml honey
1 Peel the celeriac, keeping it as round as possible. Make a slight indent using a 6-7cm biscuit cutter in the top of the celeriac or score using a knife. Use the indent as a guide to hollow out the middle with a melon baller or apple corer until you’re halfway down. 2 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. In a bowl, toss the walnuts, thyme and blue cheese together, then pack into the cavity – don’t worry if the filling sticks out of the top. Next, lay out a sheet of tin foil large enough to cover the celeriac. Put the celeriac in the
middle, dot the butter on top and around it, then drizzle with honey and sprinkle with salt. Wrap the celeriac in the foil, making sure there are no gaps, and roast for 1 hr 15 mins or until soft. Once cooked, open the foil and roast for a further 15 mins until golden. Serve the celeriac on a chopping board and reserve the juices in a dish to spoon over. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 221 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 7g • carbs 12g • sugars 11g • ibre 6g • protein 6g • salt 0.6g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 49
Chive gnocchi with smoked cream sauce & leeks It’s important to use a good, dry potato – like Maris Piper – so that the gnocchi doesn’t absorb too much flour and stays fluffy. SERVES 6 PREP 45 mins COOK 2 hrs A CHALLENGE V
For the gnocchi 1.2kg large Maris Piper potatoes 125g ‘00’ pasta lour, plus extra for dusting 90g parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), inely grated, plus extra to serve small pack chives, snipped good grating nutmeg 1 large egg and 2 large egg yolks 3 tbsp rapeseed oil 50g butter, diced For the charred leeks 4 leeks, trimmed and sliced into rounds 1 tbsp rapeseed oil For the sauce 300ml pot double cream 75g butter, cut into cubes pinch cayenne pepper, plus extra to serve pinch of smoked sea salt, plus extra to serve juice 1 lemon
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the potatoes on a baking tray and bake for 1 hr 15 mins. Leave to cool slightly, then halve and scrape out the middles with a spoon. Mash the potato with a ricer (or a vegetable masher, then push through a sieve into a large bowl). Mix in the flour, parmesan, most of the chives (keep a few to garnish), nutmeg, egg and egg yolks and some seasoning, then knead briefly on a lightly floured surface until you get a smooth dough. 2 Divide the dough into four pieces, then use your hands to roll one piece into a long, even sausage shape. Cut into 17 equal pieces, then lightly push and roll each piece with a fork – this will shape the gnocchi and give it the traditional indentations. Divide the finished gnocchi between two trays lined with baking parchement, then repeat with the rest of the dough. Cover with cling film and chill in the fridge until needed. 3 Put the sliced leeks in a large, non-stick frying pan with the oil, turn the heat to high and fry for 8 mins,
shaking the pan occasionally until the leeks are just cooked, with a charred edge, then turn off the heat. 4 For the sauce, pour the cream into a large saucepan and simmer over a medium heat for 12 mins until reduced by half. Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Cook the gnocchi in batches in the water until they float (this will take only a few mins, so keep your eye on them). Transfer to lightly oiled trays using a slotted spoon and leave to steam-dry. 5 Slowly whisk the butter into the cream, waiting until one cube has melted and combined before adding the next. Once all the butter has been incorporated, add the cayenne pepper, smoked salt and lemon juice, adjusting to taste. Set aside to keep warm. 6 To finish the gnocchi, heat a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add 1 tbsp oil and a third of the butter, then fry the gnocchi in three batches, adding more oil and butter between each batch, until they have a golden brown crispy exterior. Put the gnocchi in serving bowls with the charred leeks, spoon the sauce over the top and finish with the reserved chives, some grated Parmesan and a pinch of smoked salt and cayenne pepper, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 828 kcals • fat 59g • saturates 32g • carbs 54g • sugars 5g • ibre 7g • protein 16g • salt 0.8g
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Lavender poached pear with Poire Williams pudding I love desserts where you can do all the hard work in advance. For this one, you make the dough a day ahead and prove it in the fridge. You can also poach the pears the day before. SERVES 8 PREP 1 hr 25 mins plus overnight rising and soaking COOK 45 mins A CHALLENGE
For the poaching liquor 200g white caster sugar juice 2 lemons 1 thyme sprig 1 tsp dried lavender 2 tbsp honey 4 large, ripe pears, peeled, halved lengthways and core removed with a melon baller For the sponge puddings 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast 10g honey 1 vanilla pod, halved lengthways and seeds scraped out 160g plain lour, plus extra for dusting 4 large eggs, lightly beaten 70g unsalted butter, softened and chopped, plus extra for greasing 100ml Poire Williams liqueur or sweet sherry vanilla Chantilly cream, to serve (to make your own, use the recipe overleaf but omit the calvados) fresh lavender, to serve (optional)
1 Make the dough for the sponge the day before. Put the yeast, honey, vanilla seeds, flour and a pinch of salt in a stand mixer with a whisk attachment (use an electric hand whisk and large bowl if you don’t have a stand mixer) and whisk for 30 secs to combine. On a medium speed, slowly add the eggs, then increase the speed and gradually beat in the butter, waiting for one bit to be fully incorporated before adding more. The texture of the finished dough will be very wet, similar to brioche. Cover the bowl with cling film and prove overnight in the fridge – this will make the dough easier to handle. 2 The pears can also be poached the day before. Mix the sugar with the lemon juice and 500ml water in a medium saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the thyme, lavender, honey and pears, then lower the heat and poach gently for 10 mins (firm pears may take longer). Remove the pears from the heat and leave to cool in the syrup, then refrigerate until needed. 3 The next day, divide the dough into eight balls. Put each one into a buttered dariole mould, cover with buttered cling film and prove in a warm place for 1-1 1/2 hrs until the dough has doubled in size. About 20 mins before the dough has finished proving, heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Bake the dough for 12 mins until golden and risen. Remove the puddings from the oven and cool for 5 mins, then remove from the moulds and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. 4 To assemble the pudding, drain the poaching liquor into a saucepan, bring to the boil, then reduce the liquid by half. Put the sponges in a deep-sided dish, then pour over the hot syrup. Cover with cling film and leave for 30 mins, turning the puddings over halfway through. Pour the Poire Williams over the sponges, re-cover and leave for a further 30 mins.Serve one pudding per person with the poached pears, a dollop of Chantilly cream, a drizzle of the poaching syrup and some fresh lavender, if you like. PER SERVING 372 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 5g • carbs 59g • sugars 44g • ibre 4g • protein 6g • salt 0.1g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 51
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Almond & apple tart SERVES 8 PREP 1 hr plus at least 1 hr 20 mins chilling COOK 1 hr 15 mins MORE EFFORT
4 Royal Gala apples 100g icing sugar For the sweet pastry 165g butter, softened 80g caster sugar 265g plain lour, plus extra for dusting 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten For the frangipane 100g butter 100g icing sugar, sieved 2 large eggs 100g ground almonds 50ml calvados For the calvados Chantilly cream 250ml double cream 50g icing sugar 50ml calvados 1 /2 vanilla pod, halved lengthways and seeds scraped out
1 First, make the pastry. Using a free-standing mixer fitted with a beater attachment (or an electric hand whisk and large bowl), mix the butter and sugar until smooth and pale. Reduce the speed, slowly add the flour, then just before it’s fully combined, add the egg yolk and mix briefly until smooth (if the pastry is dry add 1 tsp cold water). Remove the pastry from the bowl, wrap in cling film and chill in the fridge overnight, or for at least 1 hr. 2 For the frangipane, cream the butter and icing sugar in a freestanding mixer or with an electric hand whisk until light and fluffy. Mix in the eggs one at a time, then fold in the almonds and calvados and beat for 3 mins more. Chill until needed. 3 Heat oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 3. Roll out the pastry on a well-floured surface to the thickness of a £1 coin. Gently press the pastry into either a 23cm tart ring on a baking sheet or a 23cm fluted tart tin (the pastry may crack – patch up any holes with
leftover pastry). Trim the edges neatly, then chill in the fridge for 20 mins. 4 Stand the tart tin (if using) on a baking sheet, then spoon in the frangipane and smooth with the back of the spoon, leaving a 0.5cm gap at the top. Peel and core the apples, then cut into 4mm slices using a mandolin or knife across the width of the apple so there’s a hole in the middle of each slice. Arrange the apples on top of the frangipane. Sieve a good layer of icing sugar on top, then bake for 1 hr-1 hr 15 mins or until the apples are caramelised and the frangipane is cooked (use a skewer to check). Leave to cool for 30 mins before serving. 5 Next make the Chantilly. Whip the double cream and icing sugar to soft peaks, then add the calvados and vanilla seeds, and whisk again until the mixture holds its shape. Chill in the fridge until you are ready to serve with the tart. PER SERVING 846 kcals • fat 53g • saturates 29g • carbs 74g • sugars 48g • ibre 2g • protein 9g • salt 0.7g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 53
Spiced pear chutney MAKES 1 litre PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins MORE EFFORT V
Put 200g demerara sugar, 200ml cider vinegar, 100ml perry (pear cider), 1 star anise, 1 tsp ground cumin, 2 chopped red onions and 1 tsp grated ginger in a large saucepan and bring to the boil.
Peel 10 firm pears and chop into bite-sized pieces. Add the pears and 2 halved red chillies (deseeded if you prefer) to the boiling liquid and simmer for 40 mins until the liquid is syrupy and the pears are just cooked. Stir in 50g sultanas, remove from the heat and leave to cool, then spoon into sterilised jars. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • gluten free PER TBSP 25 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 5g • sugars 5g • ibre 1g • protein none • salt none
Creamed leeks with bacon & thyme
Peel and trim 1 celeriac and cut into quarters. Slice the quarters very thinly (on a mandolin if you have one), then cut the slices into matchsticks. Sprinkle with 1 tbsp celery salt, toss together and leave for 20 mins. Wash off the salt, then put the celeriac in a clean tea towel and twist to squeeze out any excess moisture. Tip into a bowl and stir in 100g mayonnaise, 1 tsp snipped chives, juice 1 lemon and 2 tsp wholegrain mustard. Season with black pepper and celery salt, then serve.
SERVES 4 (as a side) PREP 5 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 155 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 1g • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • ibre 7g • protein 2g • salt 1.3g
Heat 1/2 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Cut 6 streaky bacon rashers into strips and fry for 5 mins, then turn down the heat, add 75ml white wine and simmer to a glaze. Add 150ml double cream and reduce by half. Add 4 thinly sliced leeks and simmer for 10 mins, then stir in 1/2 tsp thyme leaves and 40g diced strong cheddar and season. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day• gluten free PER SERVING 381 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 17g • carbs 6g • sugars 4g • ibre 5g • protein 10g • salt 1.2g
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Tom will be cooking at the BBC Good Food Shows at Glasgow SECC (4 6 Nov), London Olympia (11 13 Nov) and Birmingham NEC (24 27 Nov). Visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com to book tickets. Readers get a discount – ind out more on p92. Tom will also be focusing on fast food in a new BBC show next year.
Food styling LISA HARRISON Styling LUIS PERAL
SERVES 4 6 (as a side) PREP 15 mins NO COOK V
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Puff pastry Buttery, flaky and irresistible â€“ bake something brilliant this autumn recipes DIANA HENRY photographs HELEN CATHCART
Chicken, leek & cider pie, p61 OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 57
Good Food’s contributing editor Diana Henry is an award-winning food writer. Her tenth book, Simple (£25, Mitchell Beazley), is out now. Each month she creates exclusive recipes using seasonal ingredients. @ DianaHenryFood
What do keen cooks love about the act of cooking? Most often you hear that they’re ‘feeders’, never happier than when dispensing food to big tables of friends. Then there are the sensual pleasures – the smell of olive oil as it hits a pan of warm beans, the beauty of a whole fish as you wash it, the way you can see citrus oil disperse in the air when you cut a lemon. I notice these details every day. But cooking is
Pumpkin, fennel & Taleggio galette SERVES 6 PREP 35 mins COOK 1 hr 30 mins MORE EFFORT V
700g pumpkin or 1 small squash 5 tbsp olive oil grating of nutmeg 2 small fennel bulbs juice 1/2 small lemon 1 /2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted and coarsely crushed 470g spinach, coarse stalks removed 15g unsalted butter 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 egg yolk mixed with 2 tsp milk (to make an egg wash) 200g Taleggio (or vegetarian alternative), sliced 375g puff pastry
1 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Peel the squash, then halve and deseed it before cutting the flesh into thick wedges and halving them again to make quarters. Put the slices in a roasting tin with half the olive oil, the nutmeg and seasoning, and toss to coat. Roast for 30 mins, or until tender and a little caramelised. 2 Halve the fennel bulbs lengthways and remove the tops and tough
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also about mastery. From a young age, I got a thrill from practising dishes or techniques until I could do them well. Even so, there are a few gaps in my mastery and puff pastry is one of them. You need cold hands and a cool kitchen for a start, and I rarely have either. I still have vivid memories of my final exam at cookery school. The exam took place in a heatwave. I tried to keep my pastry cool and my edges straight, but I watched my pastry cases rise and then rise no more, as butter from the layers leached out and spread over the baking sheet. I could have wept. The results were acceptable, but they weren’t cloud-like. Since then I have practised – every so often – but with a full-time job and kids I was always making it in a hurry. And puff pastry can’t be hurried.
About a decade ago I decided to let myself off the hook. In any case, chefs told me, the stuff you can now buy is better than any puff pastry made by hand. It was a relief. Nearly everything you make with puff pastry requires other work (the filling or the topping), so skipping one difficult step makes life easier. I now see puff pastry as one of the great convenience products (I use the one from Dorset Pastry, available from Waitrose and Ocado; if you can’t find this, look for an all-butter variety). There are still a few things you have to watch, even with bought puff pastry: don’t use too much flour when you roll it, roll it evenly and keep it cool. So mastery isn’t always the point – making good food is. And if bought puff pastry means I can turn out a luscious chicken pie on a Wednesday night, I’m all for it.
outer leaves from each piece. Trim the base and cut each half into thick wedges, keeping them intact at the base. Put the wedges straight into a bowl and toss with the lemon juice to prevent discolouring. Add the fennel seeds, remaining olive oil and some seasoning, then toss well. Spread the fennel in a roasting tin large enough to hold it in a single layer and cover with foil. Roast the fennel (at the same time as the squash) for 20 mins, or until tender with pale-gold undersides. 3 Wash the spinach and cook in a covered pan over a medium heat for 1-2 mins. When wilted, drain in a colander and leave to cool. Squeeze the excess moisture out of the spinach, chop roughly and season. Melt the butter in a frying pan and quickly fry the spinach with the garlic for 3 mins. Set aside. 4 Roll out the pastry to make the base of the tart, ending up with a piece measuring roughly 28 x 38cm. Put the pastry base on to a floured metal baking sheet. Create a border all the way round by lightly running a knife 2cm from the edge. Prick the rest of the pastry all over with a fork. Put a rectangle of baking parchment, the size of the inside
of the border, over the pastry. Weight it down with baking beans. Knock up the sides of the pastry by holding a small knife at a right angle to the pastry and making small indentations to release the layers. This will give you a better rise. Paint the border with the egg wash. 5 Put the pastry in the preheated oven and cook for 25 mins, removing the beans and paper after 15 mins. Take the partially cooked tart base out of the oven and, if the centre has risen, gently flatten it with the back of a wooden spoon. Turn the oven up to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. 6 Spoon the spinach onto the pastry, then put the squash and fennel on top. Distribute the cheese over the top, too. Put the tart back into the oven and cook for a further 25 mins. The cheese should be golden in patches and the pastry should be cooked and golden, but not too dark. GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 526 kcals • fat 38g • saturates 16g • carbs 30g • sugars 6g • ibre 6g • protein 14g • salt 1.5g
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60 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Pear & hazelnut dartois A dartois is a puff pastry tart, usually rectangular, and filled with frangipane. It’s also a clever way of turning puff pastry into an impressive dessert. SERVES 8 PREP 45 mins plus chilling COOK 55 mins MORE EFFORT
1 lemon 250g granulated sugar 1 /2 tsp vanilla extract 4 pears (preferably round rather than long) 450g puff pastry a little sun lower or vegetable oil, for brushing plain lour, for dusting 1 tsp milk For the frangipane 60g butter, at room temperature 60g golden caster sugar 1 medium egg, lightly beaten 60g toasted hazelnuts, ground 1 tbsp plain lour whipped cream, to serve
1 Peel a broad strip of zest from the lemon and then juice the lemon. Put 1 tbsp juice, the zest, sugar, vanilla extract and 500ml water into a saucepan or sauté pan large enough
Chicken, leek & cider pie
Food styling ROSIE BIRKETT Styling LINDA BERLIN
SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus chilling COOK 1 hr 35 mins MORE EFFORT
60g unsalted butter 60g plain lour 250ml dry cider 250ml full-fat milk 1 tbsp Dijon mustard juice 1/2 lemon 2 tbsp crème fraîche 3 medium leeks, sliced into rings 1 large apple, peeled, cored and sliced 500g cooked chicken, torn or cut into pieces 50g extra mature cheddar, grated 375g puff pastry 2 egg yolks, beaten with 2 tsp milk (to make an egg wash)
1 Melt 40g of the butter in a saucepan and add the flour. Stir this over a medium-low heat for 1 min to make a roux. Remove from the heat and start adding the cider a little at a time. Mix well with a wooden
to hold all the fruit in a single layer. Heat gently, stirring a little to help the sugar dissolve. Simmer for 4 mins then remove from the heat. 2 Peel, halve and core the pears. Add them to a bowl with the remaining juice from the lemon. Heat the syrup again and gently poach the fruit, covered, for 15-20 mins until just tender. Test the pears with the tip of a sharp knife and remove them with a slotted spoon as soon as they are ready. Lay them in a broad, flat container in a single layer. Allow the poaching syrup to cool slightly (for about 10 mins) then pour over the pears. Cover, then set aside in the fridge to cool completely. 3 For the frangipane, beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Gradually add half the egg (keep the rest for brushing the pastry), beating well after each addition. Stir in the nuts and the flour. 4 Roll out 200g of the pastry to make a rectangle measuring 32cm x 14cm. Transfer to a metal baking sheet lightly brushed with a little oil and prick it all over with a fork. Spread the frangipane over the pastry leaving a 2cm border all around it. Lift the pears out of the syrup and pat dry with kitchen
paper. Lay these horizontally in alternating directions along the pastry. Brush the borders with water. 5 Roll out the rest of the pastry into a rectangle measuring 32cm x 17cm. Flour it lightly. Gently fold this over, lengthways, without pressing down. Make cuts horizontally through the fold at 4mm intervals, leaving a 2cm border around the open edge (as if you’re making a paper lantern). Lay this on top of the pears, and unfold it to cover them. Lightly press together the pastry edges and put in your fridge for 30 mins. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Strain the poaching syrup and boil to reduce it by half. 6 Trim off about 3mm of pastry all the way round to make the dartois neat. Mix the remaining beaten egg with the milk and use this to brush the pastry. Using the tip of a small sharp knife, make little diagonal markings all along the border. Bake for 25-30 mins. Brush the tart with the reduced poaching syrup while it’s still warm. Serve with crème fraîche or whipped cream. You can stir 2 tbsp of the poaching syrup into the whipped cream, if you like.
spoon to ensure there are no lumps. Keep stirring until all the cider has been added, then add the milk in the same way. Season, return the pan to the heat and, stirring continuously, bring to the boil. The mixture will thicken considerably and, once it has come to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for about 3 mins. Stir in the mustard, lemon juice and crème fraîche, and taste for seasoning. 2 Melt the rest of the butter in a frying pan and gently fry the leeks and the apples for 5 mins. Add 2 tbsp of water, season, cover and cook over a low heat for 8-10 mins until tender. If there are lots of juices, increase the heat to reduce them. 3 Add the chicken and half the cheese to the sauce, then bring to the boil. Immediately reduce the heat and heat the chicken through. Gently stir in the leeks and apples and taste – you may want to add more mustard or lemon juice. 4 Put the mixture into a 25 x 20cm pie dish or a round dish measuring 25cm across (with a 1.3 litre capacity).
Sprinkle with the rest of the cheese and leave to cool completely. 5 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. On a lightly floured surface, roll the pastry out to the thickness of a 50p coin. Cut off a strip the same width as the lip of the pie dish. Wet the lip and press this strip onto it. Brush the strip with water and lay the rest of the pastry on top. Press the pastry lid onto the pastry strip, then cut off the excess. Crimp the edges and use the remaining pastry to decorate the top of the pie. Make three small slits in the pastry near the middle to let the steam escape. Brush the top with the egg mixture and bake in the oven for 30-40 mins, until the pastry is a deep golden colour and puffed up. Serve immediately.
PER SERVING 537 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 11g • carbs 67g • sugars 48g • ibre 4g • protein 6g • salt 0.6g
GOOD TO KNOW calcium • ibre • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 1,041 kcals • fat 65g • saturates 33g • carbs 55g • sugars 13g • ibre 7g • protein 51g • salt 1.8g
Buying puff pastry – page 153
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 61
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Midweek meals Cook something new for your family with our super-simple, costed recipes recipes KATIE MARSHALL photographs MIKE ENGLISH
Penne with a punchy tuna sauce This quick dish is packed with Mediterranean flavours. Leftovers will keep well for lunch the next day. SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
350g penne 1 tbsp olive oil 5 tbsp capers, drained, rinsed and patted dry with kitchen paper 185g jar pitted black olives, drained and roughly chopped zest and juice 1 lime 2 x 200g tins tuna in spring water, drained 4 tbsp grated Parmesan 1 /2 small pack basil, leaves picked
1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the penne for 1 min less than pack instructions. Drain, reserving a cup of the cooking water, and leave the pasta in the colander. 2 Heat the oil in the same pan you cooked the pasta in over a mediumhigh heat. When hot, add the capers and stir to coat in the oil. When the capers start to pop, reduce the heat and add the olives, lime zest and juice and tuna. Stir together, then return the pasta to the pan with the reserved cooking water. Stir through the Parmesan and basil and season with black pepper. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • ibre PER SERVING 537 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 4g • carbs 64g • sugars 1g • ibre 7g • protein 34g • salt 2.1g
Use storecupboard ingredients £1.28 per serving
64 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
eat well every day
Roasted vegetable quinoa salad with griddled halloumi Warm salads make satisfying meat-free meals. SERVES 4 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V
1 bunch raw beetroot (4 large), peeled and sliced into wedges 1 medium butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into the same sized chunks as the beetroot 4 red onions, sliced into wedges 2 tbsp olive oil 200g quinoa, rinsed 1 litre vegetable stock 2 x 250g packs halloumi, each block cut into 6 slices FOR THE DRESSING 1 garlic bulb
1 tbsp lemon juice or white wine vinegar 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tsp clear honey
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the beetroot, squash and red onion in a large roasting tin. Cut the top off the garlic bulb (the garlic is for the dressing) and drizzle with a little of the olive oil before wrapping in foil and adding to the tin. Season the vegetables and pour the remaining oil over them. Roast for 40-45 mins, turning the vegetables halfway through. 2 Meanwhile, put the quinoa and stock in a medium saucepan over a high heat. Bring to the boil, then cover with a lid and simmer for 15 mins. Drain and return to the pan, off the heat. When the vegetables are
roasted, set the garlic bulb aside and stir the remaining vegetables through the quinoa. To make the dressing, carefully squeeze the roasted garlic from the bulb into a small bowl. Add the lemon juice, oil, honey and seasoning and mix. 3 Put a griddle pan over a high heat. When it’s really hot, add the halloumi and griddle for 45-60 secs either side (you may need to do this in batches). Spoon the quinoa and vegetables onto plates and top with the halloumi and dressing. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 587 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 15g • carbs 44g • sugars 20g • ibre 9g • protein 28g • salt 3.1g
3 of your 5-a-day £1.86 per serving
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 65
£1.13 per serving
95p per serving
Pea & feta pearl barley stew This storecuboard grain adds a nutty flavour and texture to this comforting autumnal dish. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V
2 tbsp olive oil 2 medium onions, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped zest and juice 2 lemons 200g pearl barley, rinsed under cold water 700ml vegetable stock 200g feta, cut into cubes 1 /2 small pack mint, leaves shredded, plus a few whole leaves to serve 400g frozen peas, defrosted at room temperature
1 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a pan or flameproof casserol dish over a medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 3 mins, then add the garlic and lemon zest and fry for another 1 min. Add the pearl barley and the stock. Season, bring to the boil, then simmer for 30 mins, stirring occasionally. 2 Meanwhile, put the feta in a bowl with the remaining olive oil, half the lemon juice, most of the mint and a
good grinding of black pepper. Leave to marinate while the barley cooks. 3 Remove the lid from the barley and cook for 5 mins more. Increase the heat then add the peas, half the feta and all the feta juices. Cook for 3 mins, then check the seasoning. Divide between four bowls and top with the remaining feta and mint. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • calcium • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 480 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 8g • carbs 58g • sugars 11g • ibre 8g • protein 19g • salt 1.7g
Spiced mushroom & lentil hotpot A hearty vegan dish – great for the whole family. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V G before baking
2 tbsp olive oil 1 medium onion, sliced 300g mini Portobello or chestnut mushrooms, sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 11/2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp smoked paprika 2 x 400g cans green lentils, drained and rinsed (drained weight 240g)
66 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 medium sweet potato, peeled and very thinly sliced 1 large potato, very thinly sliced 1 thyme sprig, leaves picked
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Heat half the oil in a medium saucepan. Fry the onion for 3 mins, then add the mushrooms. Cook for another 3 mins, then increase the heat and add the garlic, ground cumin and paprika, and cook for 1 min. Remove from the heat and add the lentils, soy sauce, balsamic vinegar and 100ml water. Season, then tip the mixture into a casserole dish. 2 Rinse the saucepan and return to the hob. Add a kettle full of boiled water and bring back to the boil over a high heat. Add the potato slices, cook for 3 mins, then drain. Arrange on top of the lentils, then brush with the remaining oil. Roast for 25 mins until the potatoes are golden, then scatter over the thyme before serving. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • low cal • ibre • 3 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 312 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 1g • carbs 44g • sugars 13g • ibre 12g • protein 12g • salt 0.7g
eat well every day Butter bean, chorizo & spinach baked eggs A simple, satisfying supper all cooked in one pan. For a vegetarian version, leave out the chorizo and add some sliced goat’s cheese before baking. SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY 1
/2 tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, sliced 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 tsp chilli lakes 100g chorizo, sliced into thin rounds 400g can butter beans, drained 100g spinach 4 medium eggs small handful coriander (optional)
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Heat the oil in a medium frying pan (ovenproof if you have one) over a medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 3 mins until starting to soften.
2 Add the garlic, chilli flakes and chorizo, and fry for another 2 mins before adding the butter beans and a generous pinch of salt. Stir to combine, then cook for 2 mins more. Add the spinach and a splash of water and stir until wilted. Remove from the heat. 3 If your pan isn’t ovenproof, tip the mixture into a medium casserole dish. Make four dips in the mixture with the back of a tablespoon and crack the eggs into each hole. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper (and extra chilli, if you like), then bake for 5-6 mins until the egg whites are set and the yolk is still runny. Serve with a scattering of chopped coriander, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 504 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 9g • carbs 22g • sugars 6g • ibre 9g • protein 34g • salt 2.3g
Gluten & dairy free £1.50 per serving
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 67
eat well every day Cod with an orange & dill crumb and hasselback potato Microwaving the potato first speeds up the process of making a soft but crispy hasselback – a new way to bake your potato. Freeze leftover breadcrumbs for another meal. SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
Dinner for one £2.90 per serving
Creamy pork & pear cassoulet
1 large baking potato 1 cod illet (about 180g) 1 slice bread (preferably seeded) zest 1/2 orange 1 /2 small pack dill, roughly chopped 1 small garlic clove, crushed drizzle olive oil 2 tbsp crème fraîche, to serve steamed vegetables, to serve (optional)
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Sit the potato on a large spoon and cut slits across it every 0.5cm (the edges of the spoon will stop the knife cutting all the way through the potato). Microwave for 10-12 mins until starting to soften (alternatively, bake in the oven for 1 hr 10 mins). 2 Meanwhile, prepare the topping for the fish. Blitz the bread in a food processor into breadcrumbs (or grate it). Combine the breadcrumbs with the orange zest, dill, garlic and seasoning. Season the cod, put it on a baking tray and top with the crumb. 3 Put the potato on the same tray, drizzle with oil and sprinkle with salt flakes. Bake for 12-15 mins until the fish is cooked and the potato is tender but crispy. Serve with crème fraîche and steamed vegetables, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • ibre • good for you PER SERVING 439 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 1g • carbs 59g • sugars 4g • ibre 7g • protein 40g • salt 0.7g
One-pot dinner £1.86 per serving
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins EASY
2 tbsp vegetable oil 400g pork loin steak, cut into strips 2 medium onions, sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed small pack sage leaves, chopped 2 tbsp plain lour 500ml bottle apple or pear cider 2 medium pears, cored and each cut into 8 slices 100ml double cream crusty bread, to serve
1 Heat half the oil in a medium saucepan or flameproof casserole over a high heat. Season the pork and fry for 3-4 mins, then transfer to a plate. Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining oil and onion. Soften for 8 mins, then add the garlic and fry for another 2 mins. 2 Add the sage and flour, stir and cook for 1 min. Increase the heat, then pour in the cider and bubble for 4 mins. Return the pork and juices to the pan, season, then reduce to a simmer and cover. Cook for 10 mins. 3 Add the pear slices, stir and cook for another 10 mins. Stir through the cream, season, then divide between bowls and serve with crusty bread. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 459 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 10g • carbs 27g • sugars 17g • ibre 4g • protein 24g • salt 0.1g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 69
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eat well every day
Sticky pistachio chicken with jewelled bulghar salad The pistachio crust makes the chicken skin extra crunchy – all the family will love this one. SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 50 mins EASY
8 chicken thighs, skin on (about 1kg) 150g bulghar wheat 2 tbsp honey 1 /2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp ish sauce 50g pistachios, chopped 100g dried apricots, chopped 125g pack pomegranate seeds 1 small pack parsley, roughly chopped 1 /2 small pack chives, chopped
1 Heat oven to 200C/ 180C fan/gas 6. Put the chicken thighs in a roasting tin, skin-side up, season and cook for 40 mins. Meanwhile, pour the bulghar wheat into a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer following pack instructions. 2 Combine the honey, olive oil and fish sauce in a small bowl. Remove the chicken from the oven, brush with the honey mixture, then sprinkle with the pistachios. Cook in the oven for 10 mins more. 3 Drain the bulghar wheat and tip into a bowl with the apricots. Allow to cool slightly before adding the pomegranate seeds. When the chicken is cooked through, add the juices to the bulghar wheat. Stir the parsley and chives into the salad and check the seasoning before serving with the chicken thighs.
Crowd-pleaser £2.46 per serving
GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 615 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 7g • carbs 47g • sugars 24g • ibre 13g • protein 36g • salt 0.5g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 71
Ready in 20 mins
Spiced lamb chops with coconut rice & mango salsa Griddling the lamb chops keeps the meat tender. The sweet and creamy rice is a good foil for the charred spice flavours. SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
2 tbsp tikka masala curry paste 4 thin lamb chops (about 100g each) 1 tbsp vegetable oil half thumb-size piece ginger, peeled and inely grated 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp coriander seeds 110g basmati rice, rinsed 400ml can reduced-fat coconut milk 250g pre-chopped mango 1 /2 small pack coriander, roughly chopped zest and juice 1 lime
1 Rub the tikka masala paste into the lamb chops and set aside on a plate to marinate. Meanwhile, heat the vegetable oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Add the ginger, garlic and coriander seeds, then fry for 1-2 mins until fragrant and the coriander seeds start to pop. Add the basmati rice, coconut milk and a good pinch of salt. Bring to the boil then simmer for 12 mins (or following pack instructions), adding a splash more water if needed. 2 Meanwhile, put a griddle pan over a high heat. When hot, griddle the chops for 3-4 mins for medium rare, then set aside to rest. Combine the mango with the coriander and lime. Serve the chops with the rice and mango salsa. GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 833 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 20g • carbs 67g • sugars 20g • ibre 5g • protein 49g • salt 0.9g
Food styling SARA BUENFELD Styling LUIS PERAL
£2.47 per serving
Quick midweek dessert £1.07 per serving
Chocolate & ginger honeycomb cheesecakes This indulgent pud is ready in minutes. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 5 mins EASY
100g ginger nut biscuits 2 Crunchie bars 30g unsalted butter, melted 150ml double cream 150g dark chocolate, chopped into small pieces 180g cream cheese 60g crystalised ginger, chopped into small chunks
easiest-ever For more super-simple midweek meals, visit bbcgoodfood.com.
1 Blitz the ginger nuts into crumbs in a food processor (or put in a sandwich bag and bash with a rolling pin), then blitz with 1 Crunchie, broken up, until it becomes small chunks. Add the butter and a pinch of salt and blitz again. Spoon into four tumblers. 2 Heat the double cream in a saucepan over a medium heat until it comes to the boil. Put the chocolate in a bowl and pour the hot cream over the chocolate. Mix to melt the chocolate, then stir through the cream cheese and crystallised ginger. Spoon over the biscuit base, and top with the second Crunchie, broken into small chunks. PER CHEESECAKE 818 kcals • fat 59g • saturates 36g • carbs 62g • sugars 47g • ibre 4g • protein 7g • salt 0.8g
Feed your body and soul Comfort food normally comes with a high calorie count, but not these gorgeous, new feelgood recipes recipes SARA BUENFELD photographs STUART OVENDEN
Chocolate-orange steamed pudding with chocolate sauce, p76 74 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
eat well every day
Cardamom chicken with lime leaves, p76 OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 75
Chocolate-orange steamed pudding with chocolate sauce A steamed pudding is often thought of as the ultimate comfort food, and this low-sugar version won’t disappoint.
TIP Xylitol, a naturally occuring sugar alternative, can be used in the same way as sugar in many recipes. Unlike regular sugar, xylitol actually protects against tooth decay. It contributes about a third of the calories of table sugar and has a low GI (glycaemic index).
SERVES 8 PREP 25 mins COOK 1 hr 30 mins MORE EFFORT V G For the chocolate sauce 50g cocoa 50g butter, plus extra for greasing 100g Total Sweet (xylitol, see tip, left) 1 tsp vanilla extract 200ml semi-skimmed milk For the pudding 1 small orange 100g Total Sweet (xylitol) 225g self-raising lour 50g cocoa 150ml semi-skimmed milk 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 large eggs
Cardamom chicken with lime leaves Ready-made spice pastes and powders might be convenient, but they don’t quite hit the spot if you are a true curry lover. Here, individual spices add layers of flavour to lean chicken and melting chunks of aubergine, while lime leaves add a zesty fragrance. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins COOK 1 hr 15 mins EASY G curry only
76 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
1 First, make the sauce. Sift the cocoa into a small saucepan, add all the other ingredients, then warm over a medium-high heat, stirring. Allow to bubble hard for 1 min to make a glossy sauce. Spoon 4 tbsp into the base of a lightly buttered, traditional 1.2 litre pudding basin. Leave the rest to cool, stirring occasionally. 2 Put a very large pan (deep enough to enclose the whole pudding basin) of water on to boil with a small upturned plate placed in the base of the pan to support the basin. 3 Zest the orange, then cut the peel and pith away, and cut between the membrane to release the segments. Put all the pudding ingredients, except the orange segments, in a food processor and blitz until smooth. Add the orange segments and pulse to chop them into the pudding mixture. Spoon the mixture into the pudding basin, smoothing to the edges.
4 Tear off a sheet of foil and a sheet of baking parchment, both about 30cm long. Butter the baking parchment and use to cover the foil. Fold a 3cm pleat in the middle of the sheets, then place over the pudding, buttered baking parchment-side down. Tie with string under the lip of the basin, making a handle as you go. Trim the excess parchment and foil to about 5cm, then tuck the foil around the parchment to seal. Lower the basin into the pan of water, checking that the water comes two-thirds of the way up the sides of the basin, then cover the pan with a lid to trap the steam and simmer for 11/2 hours. 5 Carefully unwrap the pudding – it should now be risen and firm – and turn out of the basin on to a plate. Spoon over some warmed sauce and serve the rest separately with slices of the pudding.
For the curry 2 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 large onion, inely chopped 4 large garlic cloves, grated 2 tbsp inely grated fresh ginger 12 cardamom pods, seeds removed and lightly crushed 4 cloves 1 cinnamon stick 2 tsp turmeric 1 /2 -1 tsp ground white pepper 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 1 red chilli halved, deseeded and inely sliced 400g can chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp mango chutney 2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 1 aubergine, cubed 12 skinless, boneless chicken thighs (about 1kg) 4 small fresh or dried lime leaves 1 green pepper, halved, deseeded and sliced For the spiced rice & lentils 125g brown basmati rice 100g dried red lentils 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder
1 Heat the oil in a large, wide pan, add the onion and fry for 5 mins until softened, stirring every now and then. Stir in the garlic, ginger, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, and cook for 5 mins more, stirring frequently. Add all the remaining spices with the chilli, stir briefly over the heat then add the tomatoes with 1 can of water, the chutney and bouillon. 2 Stir in the aubergine, bring to the boil then cover the pan and simmer for 15 mins. Stir well, and add the chicken and lime leaves. Push them under the liquid and scatter over the green pepper. Cover the pan and leave to cook for 40 mins. Remove the chicken, shred in to mediumsized pieces and return to the sauce. 3 Meanwhile, make the rice. Put all the ingredients in a medium pan with 750ml water. Bring to the boil, then cover and cook for 20 mins. Turn off the heat and leave for 5 mins to absorb any excess moisture. Serve with the curry.
PER SERVING 338 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 6g • carbs 50g • sugars 4g • ibre 3g • protein 9g • salt 0.5g
GOOD TO KNOW low cal • ibre • vit c • iron • 4 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 567 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 4g • carbs 49g • sugars 13g • ibre 10g • protein 47g • salt 0.3g
eat well every day
Berry almond Bakewell, p79
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 77
78 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
eat well every day
Berry almond Bakewell Crisp pastry, tangy raspberries and almond frangipane makes this a lovely dinner party dessert, or a weekend treat. No one will guess it’s low in sugar. CUTS INTO 12 slices PREP 30 mins plus chilling COOK 45 mins EASY G
400g shortcrust pastry cut from a 500g block 100g just-thawed frozen raspberries 25g laked almonds For the frangipane sponge 75g self-raising lour, plus a little extra for dusting 75g ground almonds 150g Total Sweet (xylitol) 150g softened butter 1 tsp baking powder 1 /2 tsp almond extract 3 large eggs
1 Thinly roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface, then use it to line the base and sides of a 25cm non-stick, loose-based tart tin. You can leave a little overhang of pastry, but trim away any noticeable excess. Prick the base with a fork
Sticky baked meatloaf with avocado & black bean salsa A satisfying family supper – lean turkey mince with proteinpacked quinoa and a sticky onion glaze.
Food styling SARAH COOK Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN
SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins COOK 1 hr EASY G meatloaf only
For the meatloaf 1 tbsp rapeseed oil, plus a little for greasing 2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced 4 large garlic cloves, grated 1 tsp allspice or mixed spice 11/2 tsp fennel seeds 2 tbsp smoked paprika 2 tbsp tomato purée 50g quinoa 160g grated carrot 1 tsp dried oregano 1 /2 tsp ground cumin
and chill for 20 mins. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and put a baking sheet inside to heat up. 2 Line the pastry case with baking parchment, fill with baking beans and cook on the hot sheet for 10 mins – the burst of heat from the baking sheet will help to prevent a soggy bottom. Carefully lift off the paper with the beans and bake for 3 mins more to cook the pastry base. Turn down the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. 3 For the frangipane, put all the ingredients in a large bowl and beat with an electric whisk until well mixed (alternatively, blitz in a food processor). Scatter the raspberries into the pastry case, spoon over the almond mixture and smooth the top with a knife. Scatter over the flaked almonds and bake for 30-40 mins until golden and firm. Carefully trim any excess pastry from the edge of the tart with a sharp knife before serving. PER SLICE 374 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 13g • carbs 30g • sugars 2g • ibre 1g • protein 6g • salt 0.6g
400g pack turkey leg and breast mince 1 large egg 1 tsp black treacle For the salsa 400g black beans, drained 1 small red onion, inely chopped 1 avocado, inely chopped 2 tomatoes, inely chopped 1 /2 small pack fresh coriander, chopped 1 red chilli deseeded and inely chopped (optional) juice 1 lime
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line a deep 500g loaf tin with baking parchment. Heat the oil in a large, non-stick frying pan. Add the onions and fry for 10 mins, stirring occasionally until golden. Stir in the garlic and spices, toast over the heat for 3 mins, then add the purée. Scrape half into a small bowl for the topping.
2 Stir the quinoa and 4 tbsp water into the frying pan and cook for 2 mins. Tip into a bowl, leave to cool for 5 mins, then add the carrot, oregano, cumin, turkey mince and egg. Season with black pepper and mix well. Pack into the greased tin and bake, uncovered, for 35 mins until firm. 3 Meanwhile, mix all the salsa ingredients in a serving bowl, and add 3 tbsp water to the remaining onion mixture with the black treacle. 4 When the meatloaf is cooked, carefully turn it out of the tin onto a shallow ovenproof dish and spread the onion mixture over the top. Return to the oven, bake for 10 mins more, then slice and serve with the salsa. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • ibre • iron • 4 of 5-a-day • good for you • gluten free PER SERVING 425 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 3g • carbs 31g • sugars 15g • ibre 14g • protein 33g • salt 0.6g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 79
eat well every day
Pork & apple stew with parsley & thyme dumplings Can dumplings really be healthy? The answer is yes! These are cooked on top of the stew, so they absorb the flavours of cider, mustard and a hint of apple. SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins COOK 1 hr 35 mins EASY G stew only
For the stew 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 2 onions, halved and sliced 3 celery sticks, thickly sliced 2 bay leaves 1 tbsp picked thyme leaves 500g lean pork illet, cut into large chunks 2 tsp English mustard powder 4 large garlic cloves, grated 2 tbsp spelt lour 4 tbsp cider vinegar 800ml bouillon or chicken stock 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and cut into chunks 2 leeks, thickly sliced 4 carrots, cut into chunks For the dumplings 140g spelt lour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp English mustard powder 2 tbsp inely chopped lat-leaf parsley 1 tbsp picked thyme leaves, plus a few sprigs to garnish 2 tbsp bio yogurt 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
1 Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a flameproof and ovenproof dish. Add the onions, celery, bay and thyme, and fry for about 8 mins until softened. Add the pork and cook for a few mins until it changes colour, but it doesn’t need to brown as you don’t want to overcook it. 2 Stir in the mustard powder, garlic, flour and vinegar, then pour in the bouillon, stirring to prevent any lumps forming. 3 Add the apple, leeks and carrots, bring the liquid to the boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cover the pan and simmer for 1 hr, stirring occasionally, until the pork and vegetables are tender. 4 When the stew is nearly cooked, heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. To make the dumplings, tip the flour, baking powder, mustard powder, parsley and thyme into a bowl and stir to combine. Put the
yogurt in a jug, make up to 100ml with water, then stir in the oil. Lightly stir the liquid into the flour to make a soft, slightly sticky dough. Divide the dough equally into eight and shape into balls. Drop them on top of the stew, drizzling each one
80 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
with the remaining oil. Bake for 20 mins until the dumplings are golden. Scatter with the extra thyme, if you like, before serving. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 3 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 526 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 3g • carbs 50g • sugars 17g • ibre 13g • protein 36g • salt 0.7g
reader offer Great-value pan
£27.99 plus p&p
This large, non-stick pan from Viners is perfect (was £69.99) for quick midweek meals and family suppers. Made from induction-compatible stainless steel, with a ceramic non-stick interior that won’t blister or peel, this versatile pan is suitable for frying on the hob and roasting in the oven. Measuring 30cm, it has a capacity of 3.96 litres, is dishwasher-safe and comes with a ive-year guarantee. Exclusive price for BBC Good Food readers: only £27.99 (was £69.99), plus £4.95 p&p. To order, call 0844 493 5654 quoting 65263 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/65263.
Over 25% off Merlot & Friends case
Order today for £65.88 – that’s just £5.49 a bottle! PLUS
DARTINGTON wine glasses worth
Photograph MIKE ENGLISH
These delicious wines are sourced from specialist estates worldwide. Laithwaite’s food-friendly merlots and tempranillos are ideal with grilled meat or pasta, and just as good on their own. Buy the whole case for £65.88 – just £5.49 a bottle – and SAVE over 25%! Plus, every order comes with two FREE Dartington red wine glasses worth £20. The case includes The Patriots, a Chilean merlot, selected from hundreds for its smooth texture and intensity, and Sicily’s Mandriano – a dark red merlot with a smoky, plummy character. Two Spanish merlots are featured: the sun-ripened Orange Grove and the mellow Finca Libertad. Rounding off the case in the same plump style are two Spanish tempranillos from leading Rioja winemakers – Bujanda’s Teja Roja and the immensely popular Posada del Rey. Delivery is FREE (usually £7.99) and if you’re not completely satisfied, Laithwaite’s offers a 100% money-back guarantee.
Order a case of 12 bottles today for just £65.88* and get free delivery (usually £7.99) THE CASE INCLUDES TWO OF EACH: • The Patriots 2015 • Mandriano IGP 2014 • Orange Grove 2014 • Finca Libertad 2014 • Teja Roja 2013 • Posada del Rey Tinto NV Plus two free Dartington red wine glasses, usually £20, with every order
Terms and conditions *Offer valid for new customers only. One case per household while stocks last. No further discount or voucher can be applied. Free delivery (usually £7.99). Offer ends 30/12/2016. You or anybody you buy wine for must be 18 years or older. All goods are subject to availability. Items are offered at the price and quantity stated. Individual bottle prices vary – price stated is an average. Delivery to UK addresses only (excluding Channel Islands and BFPO addresses). Standard delivery takes three working days (delivery to offshore islands, Northern Ireland, the Scottish Highlands and some other areas of Scotland may take a few days longer). Please visit laithwaites.co.uk/terms for full terms and conditions. Laithwaite’s Wine is part of Direct Wines Ltd, registered in England and Wales (Registered Number 1095091). One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire, RG7 4SW. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites.
To order, call 03330 148 188 quoting code RNM1A or visit laithwaites.co.uk/gfmerlot OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 81
TASTE OF Ideal for a quick meal, very versatile and easy to carry in my handbag and take to work Sharon from Leeds
THE EXOTIC Liven up your meals with versatile new John West Creations – they’re as perfect on their own as they are mixed in recipes
busy life and a love of food can make mealtimes tricky, but that’s what makes John West Creations ideal. Handy shortcuts with a great balance of flavours and textures, the deliciously exotic mixes of grains, vegetables and fish can be enjoyed on their own hot or cold, in a salad, with a bit of crusty bread, as a side dish, or even in recipes, such as the easy one below. So go on, try the full range for yourself – find it in all leading supermarkets.
Salmon with bulgur wheat and chickpea salad, grilled peppers and green tahini dressing SERVES 4
PREP 4 mins
COOK 8 mins EASY
3 mixed pointed (Romano) peppers, halved lengthways 2 tbsp olive oil 1 garlic clove small bunch each of coriander, parsley and mint 1 tbsp tahini paste juice and zest of 1 lemon 2 x packs John West Creations Salmon with Bulgur Wheat & Chickpeas Moroccan-Style 110g baby leaf salad
1 Preheat the grill to high. Place the peppers skin-side up on a baking sheet and drizzle with the olive oil and a little salt and pepper. Grill for 4-5 mins until softened and the skin begins to blister. Turn over and grill for a few more mins, then remove and leave to cool. 2 Meanwhile, whizz the garlic, herbs, tahini, lemon juice, zest and 2-3 tbsp of water in a food processor to a smooth dressing. Season and add more water if it looks too thick. 3 Toss together the Salmon John West Creations with the salad. Serve with the peppers and drizzle over the green tahini dressing.
Helpfully healthy? Meet new John West Creations, available in a range of flavours. The combination of grains, mixed vegetables and tuna or salmon make Creations low in saturated fat, a source of protein and Omega-3, while also giving you 1 of your 5-a-day. They’re a great way to get nutrients when eaten within a balanced diet.
For more information and inspiration, visit john-west.co.uk/creations
eat well every day
Make more of lentils Try these quick, illing suppers using a handy pouch of ready-cooked, nutritious pulses recipes ESTHER CLARK photographs TOM REGESTER
Crispy prosciutto chicken SERVES 4
Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Wrap each chicken thigh in one slice of prosciutto and place on a baking tray. Drizzle with olive oil, season and bake for 30 mins until crispy and cooked through. Meanwhile, put the lentils in a medium saucepan and gently warm through with the sundried tomatoes and half their oil. Spoon the warm lentils onto four plates and top with the chicken. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 467 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 3g • carbs 41g • sugars 15g • ibre 13g • protein 47g • salt 3.4g
+ 8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
2 pouches Puy lentils
1 tray Mediterranean roasting veg
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling LUIS PERAL
1 pouch Puy lentils
120g log goat’s cheese
3 sheets ilo pastry
GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 554 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 5g • carbs 31g • sugars 3g • ibre 11g • protein 36g • salt 4.8g
Warm tuna & lentil Niçoise salad Cook the eggs in a pan of boiling water for 7 mins, then set aside in cold water. Tip the lentils into a saucepan and gently warm. Stir through the mixed antipasti in their oil, along with the tuna in large flakes. Season to taste. Gently peel the eggs and slice them in half. Spoon the warm lentils into bowls and top each one with the halved eggs and black pepper.
280g jar sundried tomatoes
SERVES 2 V
GOOD TO KNOW ibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 613 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 11g • carbs 69g • sugars 8g • ibre 14g • protein 33g • salt 2.7g
8 slices prosciutto
Speedy goat’s cheese & lentil ilo pie Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put a glug of oil in a frying pan with the veg. Fry for 8-10 mins until softened. Add the lentils and cook for another 2 mins. Season well. Spoon into a medium pie dish with 1 tbsp water, then nestle in slices of the goat’s cheese. Top with scrunched up ruffles of the pastry sheets, brush with olive oil and bake for 15-20 mins until golden brown.
2 medium eggs
+ 1 pouch Puy lentils
+ 1 pack mixed olive & veg antipasti
160g can or jar of tuna in olive oil
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 83
Vegan shepherd’s pie BBC MasterChef judge John Torode reinvents one of our most popular vegetarian recipes to create a comforting freeze-ahead dish photograph STUART OVENDEN
SERVES 8 (makes eight individual or two large pies) PREP 30 mins COOK 1 hr 20 mins or 1 hr 45 mins if making two large pies EASY V G before baking
Good Food’s contributing editor John Torode, a chef, food writer and TV presenter, has been a judge on MasterChef for 11 years. Each month he reinvents one of the most popular recipes from our website. @JohnTorode1
s much as I love all things meat, I’m also a big fan of vegetables. Sadly, vegetarians are often served poor adaptations of meat recipes, but meat-free shepherd’s pie feels like a culinary creation of its own, and few dishes are more comforting. It’s easy to see why the original recipe – veggie shepherd’s pie with sweet potato mash – is so popular. It’s a proper pie, with a filling and a browned vegetable crust. I’ve gone one step further and made a vegan version. Instead of a sweet potato topping, I’ve stuck with the traditional potato, because it crisps up better without cheese. I am unapologetic about the time it takes to make this because the result is so worth it. My recipe is a generous size and it freezes well. As a busy father, it makes life so much easier if I can cook something and stick it in the freezer for another day.
84 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
1.2kg loury potatoes, such as Maris Piper or King Edward 50ml vegetable oil 30g dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 15 mins, then drained (reserve the liquid) 2 large leeks, chopped 2 small onions, chopped 4 medium carrots (about 300g), cut into small cubes 1 vegetable stock cube (make sure it’s vegan – we used Kallo) 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tbsp tomato purée 2 tsp smoked paprika 1 small butternut squash, peeled and cut into small cubes 1 /2 small pack marjoram or oregano, leaves picked and roughly chopped 1 /2 small pack thyme, leaves picked 1 /2 small pack sage, leaves picked and roughly chopped 4 celery sticks, chopped 400g can chickpeas 300g frozen peas 300g frozen spinach 20ml olive oil small pack lat-leaf parsley, chopped tomato ketchup, to serve (optional)
1 Put the unpeeled potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with water, bring to the boil and simmer for 40 mins until the skins start to split. Drain and leave to cool a little. 2 Meanwhile, heat the vegetable oil in a large heavy-based sauté pan or flameproof casserole dish. Add the mushrooms, leeks, onions, carrots and the stock cube and cook gently for 5 mins, stirring every so often. If it starts to stick, reduce the heat and stir more
frequently, scraping the bits from the bottom. The veg should be soft but not mushy. 3 Add the garlic, tomato purée, paprika, squash and herbs. Stir and turn the heat up a bit, cook for 3 mins, add the celery, then stir and cook for a few more mins. 4 Tip in the chickpeas along with the water in the can and reserved mushroom stock. Add the peas and spinach and stir well. Cook for 5 mins, stirring occasionally, then season, turn off and set aside. There should still be plenty of liquid and the veg should be bright and a little firm. 5 Peel the potatoes and discard the skin. Mash 200g with a fork and stir into the veg. Break the rest of the potatoes into chunks, mix with the olive oil and parsley and season. 6 Divide the filling into the pie dishes and top with the potatotes. Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5 and bake the pies for 40-45 mins, until the top is golden and the filling is heated through. If making individual pies, check after 20 mins. Best served with tomato ketchup – as all great shepherd’s pies are. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • low cal • folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 4 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 348 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 1g • carbs 43g • sugars 10g • ibre 13g • protein 11g • salt 0.5g
If you’ve cooked our original veggie shepherd’s pie (bbcgoodfood. com/veggieshepherds-pie), why not try John’s version and let us know which you prefer. Drop us a line at firstname.lastname@example.org John will appear at the BBC Good Food Shows at Belfast Waterfront (14 16 Oct) and Glasgow SECC (4 6 Nov). Visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com to book tickets, plus readers get a discount – ind out more on p92.
Food styling SARAH COOK Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN
John’s vegan shepherd’s pie
eat well every day
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 85
‘“A cracking day out” Mary Berry
+++++ “It’s phenomenal. Amazing fun!”
SAVE 15%* QUOTE GFR4
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Michel Roux Jr
Entertainment | Shopping | Tasting | Inspiration AUTUMN WINTER SEASON 2016 | ON SALE NOW
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eat well every day
Tartines Toast makes a great anytime snack or meal. Take it to the next level with these fresh toppings recipes SOPHIE GODWIN photographs MIKE ENGLISH
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 87
eat well every day
Ricotta, blackberry & pine nuts
Smoked salmon, miso & sesame
SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V
SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY
2 tbsp maple syrup 150g pack blackberries 4 slices of your favourite bread (we used sourdough) 100g soft ricotta 1 tbsp toasted pine nuts few mint leaves
2 tbsp white miso 2 tbsp tahini 4 slices of your favourite bread (we used sourdough) 100g pack smoked salmon 1 /2 cucumber, cut into thin rounds 1 /2 tbsp black sesame seeds
Warm the maple syrup in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the blackberries and cook for 4-5 mins, squashing some of the fruit with the back of a wooden spoon to soften it and create a fruity syrup. Meanwhile,
toast the bread. To serve, spread some ricotta over each slice, spoon over the warm fruit and juices and top with the pine nuts and mint. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 486 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 4g • carbs 72g • sugars 19g • ibre 6g • protein 18g • salt 1.4g
Mix the miso with the tahini and 1 tbsp water in a bowl to make a spreadable paste. Toast the bread, then top with the miso paste, salmon, cucumber and black sesame seeds. GOOD TO KNOW omega-3 • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 562 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 3g • carbs 59g • sugars 4g • ibre 5g • protein 32g • salt 3.7g
For more ways to top your toast, visit bbcgoodfood.com
Boiled egg, avocado & quick pickled radish
Almond butter, banana, goji berries & sun lower seeds
SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V
Toss the radishes in a bowl with the vinegar, sugar and a pinch of salt. In a separate bowl, mash the avocado with
the lime juice, chilli flakes and some seasoning. Toast the bread, then top each slice with a little avocado, half an egg, some pickled radishes and a few more chilli flakes, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 561 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 6g • carbs 57g • sugars 5g • ibre 7g • protein 21g • salt 1.5g
4 slices of your favourite bread (we used sourdough) 4 tbsp almond butter 1 banana, cut into thin rounds 1 tbsp goji berries 1 /2 tbsp sun lower seeds drizzle honey
Toast the bread, then top with the almond butter, banana, goji berries and sunflower seeds. Drizzle over the honey and sprinkle with some flaky sea salt. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 607 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 2g • carbs 77g • sugars 21g • ibre 8g • protein 22g • salt 1.4g
Next month New ideas for brunch
88 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Food styling SARA BUENFELD Styling LUIS PERAL
100g mixed radishes, cut into different shapes 1 tbsp white wine vinegar pinch caster sugar 1 large avocado juice 1/2 lime pinch chilli lakes 4 slices of your favourite bread (we used sourdough) 2 eggs, soft boiled for 6 mins, then rinsed under cold water, peeled and halved
SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V
PREMIUM READER EVENT
Join us for an exclusive lunch at Le Manoir Book now for this fabulous event at Raymond Blanc’s Michelin-starred restaurant We’ve planned a wonderful lunch at Raymond Blanc’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons – and you’re invited. Belmond Le Manoir, a 15th-century manor house in the Oxfordshire village of Great Milton, is one of the few restaurants in the world to retain two Michelin stars for more than 30 years. Raymond’s menus evolve with the seasons, and his team sources the finest ingredients, many from their two-acre kitchen garden, which produces 90 types of vegetables and more than 70 varieties of herbs. For our special BBC Good Food event, you will start the day with a cookery demo in the Raymond Blanc Cookery School and a flower-arranging demo with awardwinning florist, Fabulous Flowers. Then you will be welcomed with a champagne reception, followed by a three-course lunch with wine, coffee and petits fours, plus you will receive a copy of Raymond’s new book, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons: The Story of a Modern Classic, to take home with you.
THE DATE Wednesday 25 January 2017 THE PLACE Belmond Le Manoir aux
Quat’Saisons, Oxfordshire THE TIME 10am-3pm THE ITINERARY Cookery demo in The Raymond Blanc Cookery School and lower arranging demo in the La Belle Epoque conservatory, followed by a champagne reception, three-course lunch with wine, coffee and petits fours. Plus a copy of Raymond’s new book, worth £50. THE PRICE The day costs £210 per person and is restricted to 48 guests. You will be seated with fellow guests. TO BOOK call 01844 277200, quoting Good Food lunch, or email email@example.com.
Sample menu Starter Wild mushroom risotto with truffle cream
Main Roast fillet of Angus beef with chargrilled shallots & Bordelaise sauce
or Roasted Romano pepper with bulghar wheat, fennel & garden leaves (vegetarian option)
Dessert Delicate lemon cream on a crumbly linzer sable with grapefruit & basil Coffee and petits fours
Another great reason to subscribe to BBC Good Food magazine! Subscribers save £10, paying £200 per person. Turn to page 63 for your subscriber code.
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 89
Qu�nsland TAKE A BITE OF
The long coastal stretch of Queensland that is home to the Great Barrier Reef and the Whitsunday Islands may be renowned for its stunning natural beauty, but that doesn’t mean it’s not a foodie nirvana as well
The Wh� su ndays
The Whitsundays are made up of 74 island wonders, on the beautiful tropical coast of Queensland, Australia. Right in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef, a visit to the Whitsundays is a feast for the senses and the tastebuds. You can fly in to Hamilton Island, the largest inhabited island in the Whitsundays, direct from most Australian major cities. What you eat when you get there is up to you. Guests at the upmarket Qualia resort can enjoy fantastic lunches at the Pebble Beach restaurant. Exquisitely presented, super-fresh seafood platters and charcuterie boards will be sure to tingle your taste buds. After an idyllic afternoon swimming in the crystal clear turquoise waters of Catseye beach, take in the striking sunset at one of the island’s most popular spots – One Tree Hill. It offers panoramic views of the islands sloping into the glistening water, all bathed in the sumptuous glow of the setting sun. There’s a little bar up there too, perfect for a cheeky pre-dinner cocktail. For an evening of modern Australian dining, where better than the Long Pavilion? Indulge in a four, six, eight or 10-course tasting menu.
h � w B�k
The Grea t Ba rrier R� f Reader o� er All across the reef, there are some killer foodie hotspots. To the north, there are the bright lights of Cairns, with the surf ‘n’ turf splendour of the Salt House. The nearby resort of Palm Cove is also an ideal site for luxury dining, offering authentic global cuisine in an idyllic setting. The jewel in its crown is award-winning Nunu, right on the seafront. Co-owner and chef Nick Holloway of Masterchef fame has created a menu inspired by the tropical splendour of North Queensland. With a coastline teeming with life, it’s no surprise that seafood is a particular strength of Queensland. From Mooloolaba king prawns by the bucket to Hervey Bay scallops, as well as countless different types of crab. If, however, you’re after something a bit meatier, the south is where it’s at. The Southern Great Barrier Reef boasts Rockhampton, widely regarded as Australia’s beef capital. There are many traditional town steakhouses to sample some prime, juicy local steak, such as the DIY fun of Stonegrill, but wherever you go, you’ll get a satisfying mouthful of ‘Rocky’ flavour.
Discover your perfect Queensland holiday at flightcentre.co.uk/travel-guides/ australia/queensland
To enjoy the Great Barrier Reef yourself, book a day trip with Cruise Whitsundays and receive a free additional half-day trip to beautiful Whitehaven Beach. It’s rated one of Australia’s most beautiful and ecofriendly beaches, and its unspoilt splendour is protected as part of the Whitsunday Islands National Park. On your free halfday trip, you’ll also get a complimentary bottle of sparkling wine thrown in. Conditions apply. To receive your free trip and sparkling wine, call 0800 280 8917 and quote ‘BBC Good Food’ when enquiring with one of Flight Centre’s Travel Experts.
eat well every day
L E A TH
If you’re following our diet plan, this veg-packed soup makes a satisfying lunch. It’s worth making a batch for the freezer
Superfood soup D
Rustic vegetable soup You could add borlotti or cannellini beans to make this more substantial, or perhaps chopped chicken if you have some left over from a roast.
recipe SARA BUENFELD photograph MIKE ENGLISH
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V G
Food styling SARA BUENFELD Styling LUIS PERAL
1 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 large onion, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 2 celery sticks, chopped 50g dried red lentils 1.5 litres boiling vegetable bouillon (we used Marigold) 2 tbsp tomato purée 1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme 1 leek, inely sliced 175g bite-sized cauli lower lorets 1 courgette, chopped 3 garlic cloves, inely chopped 1 /2 large Savoy cabbage, stalks removed and leaves chopped 1 tbsp basil, chopped
1 Heat the oil in a large pan with a lid. Add the onion, carrots and celery and fry for 10 mins, stirring from time to time until they are starting to colour a little around the edges. Stir in the lentils and cook for 1 min more. 2 Pour in the hot bouillon, add the tomato purée and thyme and stir well. Add the leek, cauliflower, courgette, and garlic, bring to the boil, then cover and leave to simmer for 15 mins. 3 Add the cabbage and basil and cook for 5 mins more until the veg is just tender. Season with pepper, ladle into bowls and serve. Will keep in the fridge for a couple of days. Freezes well. Thaw, then reheat in a pan until piping hot. GOOD TO KNOW 3 of 5 a day • low fat • good for you • ibre PER SERVING 162 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 19g • sugars 9g • ibre 7g • protein 7g • salt 0.4g
To follow our healthy diet plan, visit bbcgood food.com
SEPTEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 91
The best in the business
A SUPER LINE UP
Be inspiredâ€Ś See all your favourites at a Show near you
oin a stellar line-up of chefs and experts at a BBC Good Food Show this Autumn Winter season. Enjoy magical moments as the stars create mouth-watering seasonal dishes live and be
inspired with tips and tricks in celebrity interviews. Stock up on interesting produce and ingredients from independent producers to recreate the recipes at home, plus discover the latest kitchen kit from great brands.
Wine pairing with Aldi New for 2016, Aldi will be matching award-winning wines to dishes cooked live in the Supertheatre in London, Glasgow and Birmingham, featuring tips from wine expert Olly Smith. Discover more at bbcgoodfoodshow.com
Readers save 15%* on tickets - quote GFR4 With thanks to:
Mary Berry We caught up with Show favourite Mary Berry. What is your irst Show memory?
It was when I was on the other side, selling salad dressings and sauces with my daughter – exhausting but great fun. Tell us your funniest Show moment?
Perhaps when I signed Paul Hollywood’s car…but it’s one continual laugh, sometimes I have no idea what Paul’s going to get up to on stage!
“A cracking day out”
imagine it’s one person, maybe doing the ironing, and if you’re not good they’ll just turn you off ! Here, you can see the faces and feel the warmth.
How do you prepare for going on stage?
I make sure I know the stages of my recipe because even though it’s light and fun, my aim is that people go home wanting to make it themselves. I choose recipes that I know they’ll love and will become family favourites.
What’s it like to cook live?
The joy of the Show is seeing a live audience. On TV I always
See Mary live in Birmingham this November.
AUTUMN WINTER SHOW SEASON Discover more about our upcoming Shows and ind your nearest one.
Our debut Northern Ireland Show will be showcasing the best regional produce and lavours alongside a fantastic line up including John Torode, James Martin, Paul Rankin and more.
Tom Kitchin, Michel Roux Jr, Tom Kerridge and more of your favourites will be cooking delicious dishes live, plus experience the lavours of Glasgow in the Pop-Up Restaurants.
Be inspired by Nadiya Hussain, Paul Hollywood and Michel Roux Jr at our Show in the heart of the capital, with treats, tipples and the latest kitchen gadgets to be found in the shopping aisles.
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The Shows at a glance…
A day out at our lagship Show will inspire you for the festive season. Just announced, Raymond Blanc joins the line-up. Choose to see him cooking live in the Supertheatre.
AUTUMN WINTER SEASON 2016 | ON SALE NOW
14 - 16 October Belfast Waterfront
4 - 6 November Glasgow SECC
11 - 13 November London Olympia
24 - 27 November Birmingham NEC
bbcgoodfoodshow.com | 0844 581 1345 *Not valid on VIP, VIP Luxe or with any other offer. Ends 27.10.16. Not all celebrities appear at all Shows or on all days. Calls cost 7p/minute plus phone company charges. The Good Food word mark and logo are trademarks of BBC Worldwide Limited. © BBC Worldwide Limited. Organised and presented by River Street Events.
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Nothing but the best for your cat. Serve him nature’s finest ingredients in a delicate broth and spoil his senses.
The young Terence with his sister Priscilla
My life on a plate
SIR TERENCE CONRAN Everyone has a dish that brings back childhood memories, and one they’d like to pass on to the next generation. Here, the influential restaurateur and design guru shares his favourite recipes
Portrait JULIAN BROAD
interview ROSANNA GREENSTREET
Entrepreneur Sir Terence Conran studied textile design at the Central School of Art and Design in London. He opened his first restaurant, The Soup Kitchen, in 1953, and since then has launched more than 40 more worldwide. He set up Habitat, the home furnishings company, in 1964, and 10 years later established The Conran Shop in London. He has written many books about his design philosophy. The latest, My Life in Design (£30, Conran Octopus), is out now.
The recipe I grew up with During rationing, cooking was difficult and I was always hungry. I remember my mother’s kedgeree, which we ate as a main meal rather than for breakfast. It was a treat – we had it maybe once a month. During the Second World War, every bit of food cost a certain number of coupons, but, as I recall, you could get a reasonable lump of haddock with very few. My mother use to do The Times crossword each morning and read a book a day. If middle-class girls back then had been encouraged to have careers, she would’ve been a designer. She ensured that my sister Priscilla and I had a creative upbringing. My father drew very well, so I got genes from him too. We lived in an old farmhouse in Hampshire during the war, as the roof of our London home had been blown off. But the Germans found out that there was an arms dump nearby, and one night they saturated the area with incendiary bombs. The farm next door was set alight and German planes started to dive bomb it. We were under the dining room table thinking, ‘It’s going to be us any moment.’ Soon after, I went to live with an aunt in a lovely house in Devon that had a stream, and I learned to fish. Now I own a small group of restaurants in London called Albion, which serve British classics, including kedgeree. OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 95
Curried haddock kedgeree SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus cooling COOK 15 mins EASY
500ml double cream thumb-sized piece ginger, peeled and grated 1 /2 tsp turmeric 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp garam masala 400g undyed smoked haddock illets (skin on) 300g cooked basmati rice 200g frozen peas 2 large eggs, boiled for 7 mins, peeled and cut into quarters 1 small pack coriander, leaves roughly chopped
1 Pour the cream into a large sauté pan with a lid. Stir in the ginger and spices, then submerge the smoked haddock fillets, skin-side up. Put the lid on, bring the cream slowly to the
GOOD TO KNOW folate • gluten free PER SERVING 885 kcals • fat 72g • saturates 43g • carbs 27g • sugars 5g • ibre 3g • protein 30g • salt 0.5g
Roast grouse with red wine gravy SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 35 mins EASY
100g goose or duck fat 2 whole grouse, feathers and guts removed (ask your butcher to do this for you) 300ml red wine 1 garlic clove, smashed 1 rosemary sprig 300ml good-quality chicken stock 1 /2 tbsp redcurrant jelly bread sauce and green salad, to serve
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the goose fat in a roasting tin in the oven to heat up. Season the birds all over, as well as inside their cavities. Once the fat is searing hot, carefully put the birds in the tin, breast-side down, and roast for 15-20 mins, depending on the size of the birds. 2 Remove from the oven and rest the grouse on a plate covered with baking parchment while you make the gravy. Pour off most of the fat, but keep the roasting juices in the tin and put on the hob over a high heat. 3 Stir in the red wine, add the garlic and rosemary and cook for 5 mins
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until reduced by half, then pour in the stock and bubble for 5 mins more until the gravy is syrupy. Stir in the redcurrant jelly, remove the rosemary and garlic and season. 4 Put a grouse on each plate and pour over the red wine gravy. Serve with bread sauce and green salad. GOOD TO KNOW folate • iron PER SERVING 534 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 7g • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • ibre 1g • protein 49g • salt 0.8g
Photographs CLARE WINFIELD Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling WEI TANG
The recipe I would pass on Roast grouse is my favourite treat. I always look forward to the start of the game season – although I don’t shoot myself. I roast the grouse in goose fat for 18 minutes, so that the bird is still fleshy. It’s a pleasure to have a wonderful whole grouse in front of me, knowing it will take almost three-quarters of an hour to get every scrap off the bones. I use the roasting juices to make a red wine gravy. I like it with bread sauce, a salad and a good bottle of burgundy. I serve grouse on porcelain plates with my family crest – a hawk with an olive twig in its beak sitting on two serpents. The plates come from my father’s side. I own some of the originals, and have had a dozen new ones made. I now have five children, three stepchildren, 12 grandchildren and one or two great grandchildren, and I want to hand this recipe down to them. Some people might say that shooting grouse is antisocial, but roast grouse is one of the best dishes that Yorkshire and Scotland have to offer, and I would very much like to see it preserved.
boil, then remove from the heat and leave to cool. Flake the fish into a bowl in large pieces, discarding the skin. 2 Put the pan of spiced cream back on a medium heat. Once warm, add the cooked rice and peas and stir through to combine. Cook for 3 mins until everything is heated through. 3 Gently mix in the haddock, being careful to keep it in large flakes. Cook for a further 2 mins and check the seasoning – the smoked haddock will be quite salty, but a good grind of black pepper could be welcome. 4 Top the kedgeree with the boiled eggs and scatter over the coriander, then tip it into a large dish and take it to the table to serve.
11 - 13 November | London Olympia
Coming to London…
N EW !
N EW !
Discover the finest flavours from the capital and beyond as the BBC Good Food Show returns to London this November. Be inspired by the best chefs in the business including Tom Kerridge, Michel Roux Jr, Gizzi Erskine and Paul Hollywood cooking delicious dishes live. Stock up on unusual ingredients, the latest kitchen kit, plus plenty of treats for the festive season.
See the stars cooking live in the Supertheatre using Aldi’s inest ingredients and quality produce. Don’t miss Nadiya Hussain who will be joining us for the irst time, plus all your favourite chefs.
Shop from hundreds of independent producers including tipples from Duppy Share Rum, smoked dips from Moorish and intriguing lavours from Popcorn Shed, plus big brands too.
Head to the brand new BBC Good Food Stage to meet the BBC Good Food cookery team as they host interviews with the stars and demonstrate seasonal recipe ideas you can recreate at home.
Stop for lunch at a range of pop-up restaurants and sample the vibrant lavours of the capital’s culinary scene. Enjoy dishes from the Good Food Kitchen, Le Pont de la Tour, Saturday Kitchen and more.
Readers save 15%* on tickets - quote GFR4 bbcgoodfoodshow.com | 0844 581 1345 *Not valid on VIP or with any other offer. Ends 27.10.16. Not all celebrities appear at all Shows or on all days. Calls cost 7p/minute plus phone company charges. The Good Food word mark and logo are trademarks of BBC Worldwide Limited. © BBC Worldwide Limited. Organised and presented by River Street Events.
Emma’s Big Apple
alloween in Manhattan is massive. It may have begun its undead life as a pagan ritual, but in modern New York those cultural roots have been left far behind. Now Halloween has nothing to do with remembering the departed and everything to do with a lavish and witty pumpkinflavoured celebration of stupid, sexy, gothic mischief, which begins a week before the big night at the Tompkins Square Halloween Dog Parade. Desperately trying to embrace our new town’s major cultural event in order to fit in, we dressed our small dog in a Supergirl outfit, complete with logoed T-shirt, satin cape and netting tutu, and wondered if she’d win a prize. What fools we were. As we approached Tompkins Square, we discovered the full extent of our competition: there were groups of dogs dressed as the complete cast of The Wizard of Oz, and I spotted the full line-up of Village People. We passed the Pope (a dog) on a throne being worshipped by fans (dogs) equipped (somehow) with camera phones. As we got closer we found a dog dressed as a lobster sitting in a saucepan on top of an oven, a pup version of the Flintstone family and about 20 dogs dressed convincingly as Donald Trump (turns out it’s quite an easy look for a canine to achieve). The best was the dog in black tie with a neck cone that held an oversized stick of olives – he had come as James Bond’s Martini. The whole thing was a glorious celebration of camp, animal love and made me think that I had finally found my people.So, for Halloween itself, I realised I had to up my game and decided to create Little House on the Prairie: the zombie version. I ordered a 19th-century
Emma’s zombie Little House on the Prairie
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Pilgrim dress and found two tiny versions of the same outfit that fitted both our dog and our rabbit. I then splattered the outfits in fake blood and transformed myself into the dead version of Laura Ingalls Wilder – with my pets as convincing matching accessories. If I’m honest, I couldn’t say that the dog enjoyed her dress, and after about 20 minutes the rabbit began to eat his own bonnet. But the real joy that night was the costumes that paraded down our street: we saw two 6ft rats holding a giant pizza slice between them, a Bride of Frankenstein walking hand in hand with a giant poo emoji, and two people dressed as sushi frolicked with girls wearing only underwear and strings of fairy lights. I have rarely enjoyed a parade more: it was only exceeded by the feast we created at home later, which was based entirely around the humble pumpkin.In our old area of London, roughly one house in every 10 pops an apologetic pumpkin onto the doorstep on Halloween eve. In America, virtually every house has multiple pumpkins on display at least two weeks before the big event. They sit on window ledges and porches, get piled up like totem poles and, once the day arrives, are adorned with scarves and hats to make pumpkin men. In New York during October, pumpkin flavouring is added to almost everything. This was an innovation for me, and on your behalf I tasted pumpkin breakfast cereal (filthy), pumpkin cappuccino (weird) and crisps (delicious). Also pumpkin popcorn (fun to say, disgusting to eat), ice cream (meh), waffles (hello), beer (it’s beer, what’s not to love), yogurt (jury’s out), porridge (porridge-y), granola (delicious), cheesecake (result), butter (why?), doughnuts (it worked), chocolate (it didn’t), bread (moist), macarons (soggy), caramels (vom), bagels (wrong), almonds (ish), Oreo cookies (no) and pumpkin vodka (now we’re talking). What became clear was that puréed pumpkin (which is always used with a heady mixture of pumpkin pie spice – cinnamon, nutmeg, ground ginger and cloves) is more than the sum of its parts. It’s like the scent of mulled wine for the Brits: pumpkin recipes exemplify time off work, kids off school, parties, holidays, traditional values, vintage movies and old-fashioned morals. Say the word ‘pumpkin’ to an American and they start to glow. Desperately trying to cash in on pumpkin love, I leave you with my ultimate autumn recipe. Seriously, enjoy!
Good Food’s contributing editor Emma Freud, a journalist and broadcaster, reports on the Manhattan food scene for us every month. @emmafreud
Portrait DAN HALLMAN | Recipe photograph STUART OVENDEN | Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN
Pumpkins on parade
Emma Freud discovers that one of the treats of her family’s year in New York is the city’s Halloween frenzy
Pumpkin & caramel corner-cutting cake Very few American recipes involve cooking pumpkins – almost all rely on cans of puréed pumpkin, which taste completely fine and make the recipes far quicker to produce. This cake cuts three major corners, but the end result is so impressive that you will still feel like Martha Stewart. SERVES 10 12 PREP 45 mins COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT
For the cake 80ml vegetable oil, plus extra for greasing 450g pack vanilla or white cake mix x 425g can pumpkin purée 125ml full-fat milk 4 large eggs 1 tsp pumpkin pie spice (available from uk.iherb.com, or mix it
yourself by combining tsp ground cinnamon, tsp ground ginger, tsp nutmeg and a pinch of ground cloves) For the spread 4 tbsp dulce de leche from a jar For the illing 225g full-fat cream cheese 125g icing sugar, sifted 1 tsp pumpkin pie spice x 425g can pumpkin purée 440ml double cream To decorate 70g pecans, toasted and roughly chopped
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line the bases of two 23cm cake tins. In a big bowl, beat the oil, cake mix, pumpkin purée, milk, eggs and spice mixture until smooth. Pour the mixture into the
cake tins and bake for 22-25 mins until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cool in the tins while you make the filling. 2 Beat the cream cheese briefly in a medium bowl until fluffy, then add the icing sugar, spice and pumpkin purée and beat until smooth. Be careful not to overbeat or it will go runny. In another bowl, whip the cream and fold it gently into the cream cheese mixture. 3 When the cakes are cool, cut each one in half horizontally so you have four thin sponges. Put the bottom layer on a plate, spread with 1 tbsp dulce de leche, then smooth over a quarter of the filling. Add the next layer and repeat until you have an amazing tower of pumpkin, cake, caramel and cream, then sprinkle the pecans on top. Boom. PER SERVING (12) 542 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 18g • carbs 49g • sugars 34g • ibre 2g • protein 7g • salt 0.7g
TIP If you prefer to make your own cake mix rather than using a packet, visit bbcgoodfood.com for the full recipe. Next month Emma celebrates Thanksgiving
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 99
BBC GOOD FOOD STAGE SPOTLIGHT “It’s great to bring the best of BBC Good Food to life” Barney Desmazery
Food editor-at-large Barney Desmazery
The best of BBC Good Food Recipe demos, live interviews and more…
eet the BBC Good Food cookery team as they bring the best bits of the magazine to life on the new BBC Good Food Stage, coming to the BBC Good Food Shows this Autumn Winter season in Birmingham and London.
Watch simple recipe demonstrations that you can recreate at home, plus discover seasonal top tips and tricks as your
culinary heroes take to the stage including TV favourite James Martin, Michelin master Tom Kerridge and local Birmingham favourite Glynn Purnell. Discover the secrets to success as the team host audiences with the chefs and experts – you might even get to ask a question to your favourite! The BBC Good Food Stage will be at the London and Birmingham Shows this November.
From left: Cookery assistant Sophie Godwin, Cookery writer Chelsie Collins, Senior food editor Cassie Best, Food editor-at-large Barney Desmazery, Assistant food editor Miriam Nice
Proudly sponsored by… Lakeland are pleased to be sponsoring the BBC Good Food Stage at London and Birmingham. Join host Stacie Stewart who will be giving you the chance to win a Lakeland gift voucher at the start of each session. Stacie Stewart
Book tickets at bbcgoodfoodshow.com
SHARE YOUR RECIPES
Stuffed vine leaves Our website, bbcgoodfood.com, is a great place to get your recipes noticed. This classic meze dish caught our eye, so we’ve given it the star treatment recipe GEORGINA SAVVIDES photograph STUART OVENDEN
‘In Cyprus, where I grew up, stuffed vine leaves are a traditional meal,’ says Georgina, from Wilmington, Kent. ‘This recipe has been handed down from my grandmother to my mum, who passed it on to me. Mum would cook these every week for us. We have a large family and, as a teenager, I would often help her by filling and rolling the leaves. She later taught me how to put the ingredients together and cook the filling. ‘These are ideal when time is short and you want a quick meal. They’re best served with a Greek salad.’
Stuffed vine leaves
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN
SERVES 10 PREP 40 mins COOK 1 hr 40 mins MORE EFFORT V G
40 large vine leaves, in brine (available from delis, souschef.co.uk or amazon.co.uk) 5 tbsp olive oil 2 medium onions, inely chopped 300g lean minced beef 140ml chicken stock 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 tsp tomato purée 250g short-grain rice 3 tbsp ground cinnamon 3 tbsp inely chopped mint juice 2 lemons
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Wash the vine leaves thoroughly, then put in a large saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Boil for 15 mins, then drain. 2 Put the oil in a medium, non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onions and cook for 6-7 mins until translucent. Increase the heat
and add the beef, frying for about 5 mins or until browned. Add the stock, tomatoes, purée and rice. Stir together, then add the cinnamon, mint, lemon juice and 11/2 tsp freshly ground pepper. Check the seasoning, stir to combine, then remove from the heat. 3 To stuff the vine leaves, lay a leaf on a chopping board, shiny-side down. Cut off and discard any stems. At the point where the stem was, add 1 heaped tsp of the mixture. Fold the bottom of the leaf up and over the filling, then fold the
sides inwards and the top down, and continue to roll up. Repeat with the remaining filling and leaves. 4 Line the base of a deep, ovenproof dish with any remaining vine leaves, then tightly pack the stuffed leaves into the dish. Pour over 140ml water and cover with foil. Cook for 1 hr, until the rice is cooked. You can also freeze the filled vine leaves. Cook these from frozen for 90 mins until piping hot and the rice is thoroughly cooked. GOOD TO KNOW folate • 1 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 218 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 1g • carbs 25g • sugars 4g • ibre 4g • protein 11g • salt 0.1g
Got a recipe you’d like to share? Visit bbcgoodfood. com and create an account in My Good Food – your recipe could be featured next month.
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 101
Just in time for Halloween, everything you need for a spectacular gothic murder mystery dinner! recipes MIRIAM NICE photographs TOM REGESTER online murder mystery game BEN MOOR
Death-by-chocolate tart, p108
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Blood beetroot cocktails, p107 OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 103
alloween has come a long way from children knocking on doors for sweets. Now everyone is getting in on the act with fantastical themed events – which is why we’ve created this grown up-menu for you to enjoy at home with a murder mystery game. Full of seasonal flavours, much of the food can be prepared ahead, leaving you free to light the candles and set the scene. Inspired by classic murder mystery plots, the crumpled singed leeks on the flame-bright Catalonian style sauce are like that crucial piece of evidence that singes in the embers, just leaving a few clues for our intrepid sleuth to discover. And naturally there’s a killer chocolate dessert. DOWNOAD OUR EXCLUSIVE MURDER MYSTERY GAME Imagine the scene: you and your dinner party companions step into the shoes of nominees at the Annual Food Star of the Year Dinner in Localtown. You gather at the home of critic Vernon Ictim for a dinner at which resentments may reach boiling point. But where is Mr V. Ictim, and who is responsible for his absence…? Visit bbcgoodfood.com/murdermystery-game to download our exclusive game, created by Ben Moor.
Ben Moor is an actor and writer. He has written for The Guardian and The Idler. His broadcast work includes Elastic Planet and Undone for BBC Radio, and TV appearances in The IT Crowd and Doctor Thorne. @benmoor
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Burnt leeks on toast with romesco Blanching the leeks first makes them sweeter. Burning them under the grill provides the perfect balancing bitterness. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V
50g whole blanched almonds 100g cooked red peppers from a jar, drained 1 large ciabatta loaf, sliced tbsp olive oil, plus 2 tsp 1 tsp sherry vinegar 1 red chilli, deseeded tsp smoked paprika 1 garlic clove, crushed 3 leeks, each cut into 4 pieces
1 Toast the almonds in a dry pan until golden. Put the almonds, peppers, 1 small ciabatta slice (about 10g – an end piece is ideal), 1/2 tbsp olive
oil, the vinegar, chilli, paprika, garlic and some seasoning in a food processor (or use a stick blender). Blend until smooth, then transfer to a bowl and chill in the fridge until needed. Can be done a day in advance. 2 Put the leeks in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil and cook for 5 mins. Drain on kitchen paper until needed. 3 When you’re ready to serve, heat grill to high. Put the cooked leeks on a baking tray, season and drizzle with 2 tsp olive oil. Grill the leeks until starting to blacken, about 8-10 mins, turning once during cooking. 4 Toast the remaining ciabatta slices and spread with a little of the romesco. Gently pull the leeks into ribbons and pile them on top. Season well and serve immediately. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • 1 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 221 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 1g • carbs 25g • sugars 3g • ibre 4g • protein 9g • salt 0.4g
Stuffed onions, root vegetable rice & herby yogurt dressing, p107 OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 105
A TASTE OF THE BRONX Big Apple bulletins from the Bagel Guy So there I was, hanging in Riverdale Bagels in the Bronx, when this guy strolls in like some kind of big shot. He’s there with his posse. Walks up to the counter like he owns the place. Then he starts free-styling his order. ‘Don’t be no tease, give me toasted with cheese. Make it cream like a dream with smoked salmon that gleams’. The whole place went crazy. Even the guy behind the counter cracked a smile. It made my day, I’m telling you. So here’s something that will make yours – all the way from the Bronx. I ain’t so good at rapping, but I can make a bagel sing. Just add some avocado slices or Tabasco sauce for a fresh twist on a New York breakfast classic. Serve it on a New York Bakery Co. Plain Bagel and you got a sure-fire hit on your hands.
+ SCRAMBLED EGG + BUTTERED BAGEL TOP BRONX BAGEL SHOPS Bagels on Bartow “Freshly baked old-school bagels with fast, friendly service – and priced to give you more bagel for your buck.” 3022 Bartow Ave Empire Bagels “It’s all about the bagel at this retro, no-frills, walk-up window joint. I love it.” 3101 Westchester Ave Riverdale Bagels “It may be hard to get a smile out of these guys, but they know how to serve up an authentic New York bagel. A class act.” 5650 Riverdale Ave
Why not try the New York Bakery Co. Cheese Bagel? For recipe inspiration, visit newyorkbakeryco.com/recipes
Stuffed onions SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins COOK 1 hr 15 mins MORE EFFORT G
For the onions 4 very large onions 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses For the stuffing 50g Greek yogurt 50g fresh breadcrumbs 400g lamb mince (20% fat) 1 egg, beaten 1 tsp ground allspice tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp each ground cumin and ground coriander small pack each mint and lat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 Trim the very ends of the onions. Make an incision in each, from top to root, then another 0.5cm along, so you can cut out and discard a thin wedge (like you’re discarding a segment of orange). Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the onions. Boil for 10 mins, remove from the water and let cool. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. 2 When the onions are cool enough to handle, carefully peel and set aside their outer layers – you want about 12-16 large layers in total, which will become the outer casing for the lamb filling. You can use the smaller, leftover layers in the middle for another recipe. 3 Mix all the stuffing ingredients in a bowl and season well. Shape into 12-16 oval meatballs. Put each one on an onion layer and roll it up to create what looks like a small, peeled onion. 4 Pour half the olive oil into a large, shallow casserole dish or roasting tin, then arrange all the stuffed onions on top in a tight, single layer. Drizzle over the remaining oil and bake for 45 mins. Brush with the molasses and bake for another 15-20 mins until the casings are really soft and dark golden brown. Serve with the root vegetable rice and the herby yogurt dressing (see recipes, right) on the side. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 314 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 8g • carbs 18g • sugars 11g • ibre 4g • protein 15g • salt 0.3g
Root vegetable rice
Herby yogurt dressing
SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 35 mins EASY
SERVES 6 PREP 5 mins NO COOK V
250g carrots, sliced at an angle 250g parsnips, sliced at an angle 1 tbsp olive oil tsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed 80g butter 2 small onions, inely chopped (or use leftovers from the stuffed onions, left) 100g short vermicelli (available from Middle Eastern shops or online, or break vermicelli nests into small pieces) 300g white rice, rinsed and drained pinch of saffron 500ml chicken stock small pack lat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 Heat oven to 200C/180 fan/gas 6. Put the carrots and parsnips in a roasting tin and drizzle with the olive oil. Sprinkle over the coriander seeds, season well and bake in the oven for 25-30 mins until cooked through and starting to turn golden brown at the edges. Remove from the oven and set aside somewhere warm. 2 Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large saucepan and add the onions. Fry for 2-3 mins until starting to soften, then add the vermicelli and cook until golden. Add the rice, saffron, stock and 500ml water. Cover with a lid. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and cook until the liquid has been absorbed, about 20 mins. Add the roasted carrots and parsnips, scatter the parsley over and serve. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 398 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 8g • carbs 56g • sugars 6g • ibre 6g • protein 8g • salt 0.6g
170g pot Greek yogurt juice lemon 2 tbsp olive oil small pack basil, chopped small pack lat-leaf parsley, chopped
Blitz all the ingredients in a blender or food processor until smooth. Season, then chill until needed. Can be done a day ahead. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 74 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 2g • carbs 2g • sugars 1g • ibre none • protein 2g • salt none
Blood beetroot cocktails Get ahead – make the beetroot lemonade the night before and chill until needed. MAKES 6 PREP 15 mins plus chilling NO COOK EASY V
For the beetroot lemonade 200g raw beetroot, grated juice 8 lemons 200g golden caster sugar For the cocktail 300ml Aperol ice 750ml Prosecco, chilled
1 First, make the beetroot lemonade. In a bowl, stir together the beetroot, lemon juice and sugar. Steep in the fridge for at least 1 hr, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Pour the mixture through a sieve into a large jug to get rid of the pulp. 2 To make the cocktail, pour 25ml of the beetroot lemonade into each glass, followed by 50ml of Aperol and a few ice cubes. Top with Prosecco and serve. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • gluten free PER COCKTAIL 289 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 34g • sugars 34g • ibre none • protein none • salt none
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 107
Death-by-chocolate tart You can buy crystallised rose petals, but homemade ones will be larger than shop-bought and much more delicate. This will add drama and elegance to your finished tart. Carefully remove the petals of fresh organic roses and lay them on baking parchment. Lightly whisk 1 egg white in a small bowl. Use a small, clean paintbrush to fully coat each petal with egg white, then dust with spoonfuls of caster sugar. Shake off any excess, then lay on the parchment. Allow to dry for 3 hrs or overnight. They will keep for up to 1 month but will start to fade after a week or two. SERVES 6 8 PREP 35 mins plus chilling COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT
For the pastry 100g butter, softened, plus extra for greasing
75g golden caster sugar 3 egg yolks 1 vanilla pod, seeds only 200g plain lour, plus extra for dusting For the rose & cassis layer 3 tbsp double cream 3 tbsp crème de cassis tsp rosewater 250g icing sugar a few drops of pink food colouring For the cheesecake layer 100g dark chocolate 100g milk chocolate 75ml double cream 150g full-fat cream cheese For the chocolate ganache 100g dark chocolate 50ml double cream 25g butter To serve pinch of laky sea salt red and pink crystallised rose petals (shop-bought or make your own, see intro)
1 Start by making the pastry. Cream the butter and sugar in a large bowl, using an electric whisk or a wooden spoon, until pale and light. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition, then add the vanilla seeds. Stir in the flour, then bring the dough together with your hands until it forms a ball that leaves the bowl clean. Wrap in cling film and chill for 30 mins or overnight. 2 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5 and grease a 23cm loose-bottomed, deep fluted tart tin. Lightly dust your work surface with flour, then roll out the chilled pastry and line your tin with it, making sure there’s a slight overhang. If the pastry tears, use your fingers to push the pieces back together (it will fuse back together neatly in the oven). Put a piece of baking parchment on top of the pastry and weigh it down with baking beans. Bake for 15 mins, remove the parchment and beans, and return to the oven for a further 15 mins until crisp and golden. 3 Trim any excess pastry with a serrated knife, so the edge sits flush with the tin, and let cool completely. 4 Mix all the rose & cassis layer ingredients in a bowl, using enough food colouring to turn it dusky pink. Pour the mixture into the pastry case and chill for 10 mins to firm up. 5 Meanwhile, for the cheesecake layer, break the chocolate into pieces and tip into a large, heatproof bowl. In a small pan, gently heat the double cream and cream cheese until piping hot and melted together. Quickly pour the mixture over the chocolate, let it sit for 1 min, then stir until completely smooth and melted. Pour the mixture over the rose & cassis layer, then return the tart to the fridge. 6 To make the chocolate ganache, put all the ganache ingredients in a heatproof bowl and microwave in short bursts until melted. (Alternatively, heat all the ingredients in a bowl over a pan of barely simmering water.) Pour over the cheesecake layer and chill the tart for at least 30 mins, or overnight if you prefer. Just before serving, carefully remove the tart from the tin and put on a serving plate or board. Decorate with a pinch of sea salt flakes and a few rose petals. Cut into slices and serve.. PER SERVING (8) 793 kcals • fat 48g • saturates 29g • • carbs 79g • sugars 57g • ibre 3g • protein 7g • salt 0.5g
108 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Must-have kitchen gadget
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This food processor from Cooks Professional makes it so easy to prepare meals and drinks, with functions to chop, blend, mix, grate, juice and more. Cakes and bread can be whipped up in no time with the whisking and kneading attachments. You can also use it to juice fruit and grind coffee beans. The 600W processor comes with a blender jug, grinder cup, citrus juicer and chopping bowl. It measures 20cm x 21.5cm x 39cm(h).
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To order your food processor Call 0844 493 5654** quoting product code D9794 and order code 64726 or visit clifford-james.co. uk/64726 or send your contact details, address and the codes and quantities of the item you wish to order, along with a cheque payable to BVG Group, to: Good Food Offer 64726, PO Box 87, Brecon LD3 3BE. Terms and conditions **Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. ‘Was’ pricing refers to the original selling prices offered on the promoters website cjoffers.co.uk, and in their retail store between 20/6/16 and 20/9/16. Delivery within seven working days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. If not completely satis ied with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order (postage costs will not be refunded unless faulty). Your contract for supply of goods is with BVG Group. A signature is required on delivery. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of its special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 64726 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/64726 OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 109
Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall The BBC campaigner, chef and writer shares a recipe from his new book as he celebrates a decade at his River Cottage HQ interview JESSICA GOOCH
River Cottage HQ, in Axminster, Devon, is a 66-acre organic farm that has featured in Hugh’s books and TV series. As well as dining experiences, its award-winning cookery school offers courses from foraging to cheesemaking and butchery (rivercottage.net). Hugh will be back with a new BBC series this autumn.
110 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Recipe adapted from The River Cottage A to Z (£40, Bloomsbury), the new book by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. Photographs © Simon Wheeler.
think food in the UK has become much more exciting in the past 10 years. There is now a real interest in growing your own, and we’ve continued, as always, to explore influences from all over the world. It pleases me that the people who I’d rate as the best and most influential chefs are interested in provenance, not just showing off their skills. Twenty-five years ago, our food revolution was all about Michelin-starred food and nouvelle cuisine. Sometimes it was delicious, but it didn’t always show a fundamental respect or passion for the ingredients. Today, most serious chefs recognise that if the produce is really good, you don’t have to do anything that crazy with it. I now regularly cook with ingredients that I didn’t use a decade ago. I use English rapeseed oil instead of automatically reaching for the olive oil. I’m also using a wider range of herbs, such as lovage, and more unusual fruits that I’ve grown, like loganberries. I’m not keen on certain trends, such as the lobster and burger thing. Basing an entire restaurant concept around slabs of beef and a single creature from the sea feels sort of lazy. I love eating a good lobster or a great burger, but I don’t want to go to a restaurant that sells them as the ultimate way to eat out and have fun. I don’t buy it – not least because vegetables should be the real building blocks at the centre of our cooking. Some dishes have stayed on The River Cottage’s menu since the beginning. We still do a slow roast that I call shoulder of pork Donnie Brasco because once it’s in the oven you can ‘forget about it’. (People who are fans of the film smile at that; everyone else is completely mystified!) Classics like our yogurt panna cotta will never go away, however we reinvent them time and time again with new twists. In the next decade, I’d like what we do here to be recognised internationally. I want River Cottage to play a greater role in taking the teaching of food – including environmental responsibility and provenance – to the next level, so that we can make a real contribution to food in the world.
Venison salad with apple, celeriac & hazelnuts This beautifully coloured and textured salad is very simple to put together – and it’s all cooked in one pan. SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins EASY
1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil 150g celeriac, peeled and cut into small chunks 1 rosemary sprig 2 small eating apples, such as russets 150g venison loin, trimmed handful of hazelnuts (about 25g), lightly bashed 50g bitter leaves, such as radicchio or chicory, to serve 1 tsp thyme leaves For the dressing 1 tsp English mustard 1 tsp golden caster sugar
2 tsp cider vinegar 2 tbsp extra virgin olive or rapeseed oil
1 Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the celeriac and rosemary, season and cook for 3-5 mins, turning the celeriac regularly. 2 Meanwhile, core and quarter the apples, then cut each quarter in half again. Season the venison loin all over. 3 Push the celeriac to one side of the pan, and add the venison and the apple side by side. Cook for 5 mins, stirring the celeriac every now and then. Turn the apple and venison over and cook for another 5 mins for medium-rare meat. Transfer the venison to a board to rest.
4 Add the hazelnuts and give the pan a good shake to mix everything together. Cook for a few more mins (the celeriac should still be slightly al dente), then remove from the heat and allow to cool a little. 5 For the dressing, whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl and season to taste. 6 To serve, shred the bitter leaves and arrange them on a large platter. Scatter over the celeriac, nuts and apple pieces. Thinly slice the venison and arrange on top. Sprinkle with thyme, then drizzle over the dressing. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • folate • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 387 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 4g • carbs 13g • sugars 12g • ibre 6g • protein 21g • salt 0.6g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 111
Rosie’s roast pheasant Fancy a change from chicken? Try roasting seasonal pheasant instead, and get creative with the leftovers recipes ROSIE BIRKETT photographs HELEN CATHCART Good Food’s contributing editor Rosie Birkett is a food writer and stylist. Her cookbook, A Lot On Her Plate, is out now (£25, Hardie Grant). Each month she creates modern recipes for Good Food. @rosiefoodie
112 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
get so excited once the game season kicks in. There’s something special about cooking wild birds that have been roaming the countryside, eating a diet of what they’ve foraged from the landscape. It comes through in the depth of flavour when you eat these birds and, while pheasant is one of the least gamey, I adore its gentle, almost nutty taste.
Pheasants are lean birds, although they do have some lovely deep-yellow fat which adds loads of flavour and should never be disregarded. I like to source younger hen birds. They have a more delicate flavour and texture than the older, tougher cocks. Make sure you do the same, and ask your supplier to give them to you readyplucked – plucking is a lot of work!
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 113
Pot-roast pheasant with Fino & porcini This recipe uses some lovely fatty ham to truss the birds with, and is full of woodland flavours from the herbs, mushrooms and their stock. I love using sherry with poultry, and it works particularly well with the flavour of pheasant, while the grapes add a sweetness to the whole dish. As oven temperatures vary, do check your birds as they roast – the leg meat should come away from the bone easily– and be careful not to overcook them. Resting is also important, so allow time for that. SERVES 4 PREP 1 hr COOK 1 hr 30 mins MORE EFFORT
15g dried porcini 2 x 800g pheasants, trussed 8 slices prosciutto 2 tbsp rapeseed or olive oil 2 bay leaves 30g unsalted butter 6 juniper berries, crushed 2 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 10 small round shallots, peeled and trimmed 1 tbsp plain lour 200ml Fino sherry 500ml chicken stock 300g seedless red grapes 150ml double cream
Crispy Jerusalem artichokes with roasted garlic & rosemary I adore the unusual savoury tang of Jerusalem artichokes, which works beautifully alongside the wild flavours of game. Here they are crispy on the outside, gorgeously soft on the inside and coated in a rosemary-spiked brown butter. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus soaking COOK 50 mins EASY V
800g Jerusalem artichokes 1 garlic bulb, cut down the middle 1 tbsp rosemary leaves, chopped 3 tbsp rapeseed oil pinch ground mace 20g butter 2 tsp lemon juice
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Soak the dried porcini in 100ml boiling water for 10 mins until softened and then drain, reserving the mushroom stock. 2 Cover each pheasant in four overlapping slices of prosciutto and tie them each in place with a piece of string. Heat the oil in a high-sided, heavy-bottomed skillet or frying pan over a medium heat. Season the pheasants all over and brown them one at a time in the pan, starting with the breast side for a few mins, and then turning until they are golden all over – this should take about 8 mins. Tuck the bay leaves into their cavities, then put them into one large or two medium-sized flameproof, lidded casseroles. 3 Keeping the pan on the hob, lower the heat and add the butter. When it has melted, add the juniper berries, thyme and shallots, then season. Fry gently for 5-10 mins, until the shallots are golden brown. Add the flour to the pan and cook, stirring for 1 min. Then turn up the heat and pour in the sherry, scraping the bottom of the pan to pick up any crust. Cook for 1-2 mins, stirring, then add the stock and mushroom water, and bring to the boil. Simmer for 10 mins, or until reduced by a third, then pour into the casserole with the pheasants.
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Soak the artichokes in cold water for 20 mins or so to loosen any dirt, then scrub them with a scourer, being sure to remove any grit. Halve the small ones and quarter the bigger ones, and put them in a roasting tin with the split garlic bulb and rosemary. Coat everything with the oil and season. Roast for 45-50 mins until tender inside and crispy outside. 2 To finish, squeeze the softened garlic cloves from their skins and toss with the roasted artichokes, along with the mace, butter and lemon juice. GOOD TO KNOW iron • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 271 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 3g • carbs 33g • sugars 19g • ibre 4g • protein 5g • salt 0.1g
114 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
4 Cover the casserole tightly with foil and put the lid on top of the foil. Roast the pheasants in the oven for 20 mins, then uncover the pot and put back in the oven for a further 15-20 mins or until cooked through (a little pinkness is okay). Lift out the pheasants onto a platter, cover with foil and rest them for at least 10 mins. 5 While the pheasants are resting add the grapes, porcini and cream to the liquor in the casserole and cook over a gentle heat for 10-15 mins (if your casserole is not flameproof, tip the cooking juices into a saucepan instead). While this is cooking, carve the breasts and legs off the birds, put in a roasting tin and cover with foil. Just before serving, return to the oven at 150C/130C fan/gas 2 for 3 mins to heat through. Serve the meat with a generous spoonful of the sauce and the side dishes. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 772 kcals • fat 60g • saturates 27g • carbs 27g • sugars 20g • ibre 4g • protein 17g • salt 2.1g
For advice on trussing your pheasants, turn to page 153
Puy lentils, squash & kale SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V
1 tbsp roughly chopped lat-leaf parsley 2 tbsp toasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped
1 bay leaf 200g Puy lentils 2 tbsp olive oil 11/2 lemons, 1 juiced, 1/2 cut into wedges, to serve 20g butter 2 large sage leaves, torn 500g butternut or another autumn squash, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces 100g kale, stems removed and leaves torn into bite-sized pieces
1 Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Add the bay leaf and lentils, and cook for 12-15 mins until the lentils are tender but still have some bite. Drain, put in a bowl with 1 tbsp olive oil and the lemon juice, then combine. 2 Melt the butter in a heavybottomed frying pan or skillet that has a lid, along with the sage and remaining oil. Add the squash and some seasoning, then stir to coat them in the butter. Put the lid on and cook
over a medium heat for 8-10 mins or until just tender, adding a splash of water if you need to stop it catching. 3 Add another splash of water to the pan along with the kale. Put the lid on to steam for 3-4 mins until the kale is tender. Put the lentils on a serving platter and arrange the squash and kale on top. Garnish with the parsley and hazelnuts and squeeze over 1 tbsp lemon juice from the remaining lemon wedges, to serve. GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 362 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 4g • carbs 35g • sugars 6g • ibre 9g • protein 16g • salt 0.1g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 115
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The class starts with coffee and a chat with the chef about the class ahead, then it’s through to the kitchens for demonstrations of the dishes you’ll be cooking. Next it’s time to roll up your sleeves, get on an apron, learn new skills and enjoy replicating the dishes under our chef’s expert instruction.
Gift Vouchers available to buy online: www.thecheshirecookeryschool.com The Cheshire Cookery School, Norman Road, Altrincham, Cheshire WA14 4EP Telephone: 0161 928 5120 • Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
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Two easy ideas for your leftovers Pheasant & mushroom pastry puff slice SERVES 4 PREP 40 mins plus chilling COOK 40 mins EASY
1 tbsp olive oil 20g butter 2 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 5 rashers smoked streaky bacon, inely chopped 2 garlic cloves, inely chopped 3 large shallots, inely chopped 8 mushrooms (preferably wild, oyster or chestnut), inely chopped 100g left-over pheasant meat, inely chopped 1 tbsp Fino sherry or white wine 4 tbsp crème fraîche 320g ready-rolled puff pastry sheet plain lour, for dusting 1 egg mixed with 2 tsp milk (to make an egg wash) 1 tsp nigella seeds
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Heat the olive oil and butter in a heavy-bottomed frying pan along with the thyme and bacon. Cook, stirring, for 4 mins or until the bacon starts to colour and release its fat. Add the garlic, shallot and mushrooms, and cook for 4 mins until the mushrooms have released their moisture. Add the pheasant and season, then deglaze the pan with the sherry or wine. Stir in the crème fraîche, take off the heat and allow to cool completely in the fridge for around 40 mins. 2 Unroll the pastry on a lightly floured surface and spoon the cold filling in a long sausage shape along the centre of the pastry. Brush along the sides of the pastry with the egg wash and fold the pastry over the filling, as if making a sausage roll. Press to seal the bottom and sides with a fork. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with baking parchment. Brush with the remaining egg wash and sprinkle with the nigella seeds. Bake in the oven for 25-30 mins, until golden brown and nicely puffed up. PER SERVING 628 kcals • fat 51g • saturates 25g • carbs 28g • sugars 3g • ibre 3g • protein 12g • salt 1.6g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 117
Pheasant meatballs with orzo You probably won’t have much pheasant left over, but this dish makes the most of a modest amount – great for a weeknight supper. If you’ve made stock with the carcass, add a few tablespoons when you make the sauce for the pasta, otherwise use a little of the pasta cooking water.
118 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
SERVES 2 PREP 25 mins COOK 20 mins EASY G (meatballs only)
1 shallot, roughly chopped 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped 150g leftover pheasant meat picked from the carcass (including skin and fat) 100g fresh breadcrumbs zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 tbsp natural yogurt 1 large egg
1 To make the meatballs, put the shallot, garlic and pheasant into a blender and process until finely chopped. Add the breadcrumbs, lemon zest and juice, yogurt and egg and blitz once more, until the mixture is clumping together, then tip into a bowl. Add the pistachios and parsley, stir well and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Oil your hands and roll the mixture into golf ball-sized meatballs. Put in the fridge to chill. 2 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. In a heavy-bottomed, non-stick frying pan or skillet, heat the olive oil and rosemary, and stir to infuse the oil, then add the meatballs and fry for 4-5 mins, turning them carefully to brown all over. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon, retaining the rosemary oil, and transfer the meatballs to a roasting tin. Put them in the oven for 10 mins to heat through while you cook the pasta. 3 Cook the orzo following pack instructions, and drain when al dente, reserving some of the water. Remove the sprigs of rosemary from the olive oil in the frying pan and tip in the pasta along with the spinach, stirring to coat in the infused oil. Warm gently over a low heat then stir in the crème fraîche and Parmesan, plus a little pasta water (or stock, if you have it). Season and divide between plates, topping with the meatballs. Serve with extra Parmesan, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre PER SERVING 980 kcals • fat 68g • saturates 27g • carbs 57g • sugars 7g • ibre 8g • protein 31g • salt 0.9g
Food styling ROSIE BIRKETT Styling LINDA BERLIN
2 tbsp pistachio nuts, chopped 2 tbsp chopped lat-leaf parsley small grating nutmeg 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for greasing 2 rosemary sprigs 200g orzo 80g baby spinach leaves 4 tbsp crème fraîche 20g inely grated Parmesan, plus extra to serve
Take a relaxing break
Book a two-night trip in one of England’s beauty spots, from just £99*
As autumn arrives, why not treat yourself to a well-earned break? There’s no better place to enjoy the seasonal landscape and tranquillity than the English countryside. More than 60 Old English Inns are dotted throughout England in beautiful locations – picturesque rural villages, coastal retreats and lively market towns. Just as fascinating are the historic buildings these pubs, inns and hotels are housed in. Make the most of the outdoors and go walking or cycling, visit historic houses and gardens – or simply relax and enjoy good food and cask ales in the cosy bar or restaurant of your lodging. Book a two-night break for two, including breakfast, from just £99. For more information, visit oldenglishinns.co.uk/ bbcgf1016 or call 0845 608 6040.
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Exclusive offer for subscribers of Every booking will receive a copy of the BBC Good Food Christmas bookazine. Please turn to page 63 for your special code.
Terms and conditions *From £99 based on two people sharing a double or twin room for two nights. Offer includes breakfast. Subject to availability; date and property restrictions may apply. New bookings only. For stays up until and including 28/2/17. Excludes Christmas and New Year holidays. Copies of the bookazine will be dispatched separately in time for
Christmas by BBC Good Food. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
To book, visit oldenglishinns.co.uk/bbcgf1016 or call 0845 608 6040 quoting code BBCGF1016 OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 119
Make this festive season extra special with Aldi’s luxurious Christmas offering f ever there’s a time of year to seek out the best food and drink, the festive season is it. And with Aldi’s range of luxury products, you can spoil your loved ones this Christmas without breaking the bank. Aldi’s team of expert buyers have specially curated a collection of luxurious products, sourced from the best British farmers and world’s leading producers, to help make this festive season a memorable one. From party food and Christmas day classics to world-class drinks, gifts and decorations, Aldi is your festive destination for awardwinning quality at unbeatable value. Kick the celebrations off with a festive toast – raise a glass of the multi-award-winning Veuve Monsigny Champagne Brut by Philizot & Fils, followed by a delicious starter of Specially Selected Exquisite Rope Hung Smoked Salmon, packed with just the right amount of oak smoke for an unrivalled flavour. For the ultimate main course, try the wonderfully succulent Exquisite Dry Hung Rumburgh Farm Free Range Bronze Turkey, or for something a little different, why not try the Specially Selected British Honeycomb and Brandy Ham Joint? Finish on a magnificent high with the classic Specially Selected Exquisite Vintage Christmas Pudding – painstakingly handcrafted for the very highest quality creation, or enjoy the perfect after-dinner treat with decadently smooth Specially Selected Exquisite Handcrafted Truffles with a glass of the sublime Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos dessert wine.
Discover Specially Selected Exquisite Dry Hung Rumburgh Farm Free Range Bronze Turkey Aldi’s brilliant pedigree turkey is slowly matured in wild pastures, dry plucked, finished by hand and then hung for an exceptional flavour by the Binder family, who have reared turkeys on their picturesque Suffolk farm for over 25 years. With a diet of locally grown cereals, the birds roam freely on the farm’s pastures. They have 40-50 per cent more breast meat than commercially-reared birds of the same weight, and have the most succulent meat and flavour. Try it for yourself in this mouth-watering recipe (right), perfect as a centrepiece this Christmas.
Sam Caporn’s top wine picks The award-winning wine expert and qualified Master of Wine – only one of 341 in the world – shares her favourite wines from the Aldi range:
Roast turkey, braised leek and Caledonian blue cheese pie SERVES 4
PREP 10 MINS
COOK 40 MINS
1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, chopped 1 large carrot, sliced 3 large leeks, trimmed and sliced 1 tbsp plain flour 200ml double cream 200ml chicken stock 500g cooked turkey, cut into bite-sized pieces 100g chestnut mushrooms, halved 3 thyme sprigs 100g Caledonian blue cheese, crumbled 375g ready-rolled puff pastry 1 egg, beaten steamed green vegetables, to serve 1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Heat the olive oil in a large pan and cook the onion for 3-4 mins, until it starts to soften. 2 Add the carrots and leeks and cook for 4-5 mins. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 min, then stir in the cream and stock and bring to a simmer. Cook for a further 3-4 mins until it starts to thicken. 3 Add the turkey, mushrooms, thyme and blue cheese, and season. Spoon the mixture into a 2-litre pie dish, then cut a 29cm strip of pastry to cover the rim of the dish. Moisten the rim with a little water and cover with the remaining pastry to make a lid, then trim the edges. 4 Make a small slit in the centre to allow steam to escape, then brush with the beaten egg and bake for 20-25 mins until the pastry is golden. Divide between four plates and serve with steamed green vegetables.
The Exquisite Collection Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc “Complex white stone fruit and blackcurrant give way to lime-drizzled nectarine flavours, with a soft texture and a long finish.”
Philippe Michel Crémant du Jura “Fantastically crisp and elegant with green apples, perfect acidity and persistent bubbles.”
The Exquisite Collection Malbec Magnum “Bright and intense ruby red, with youthful purple tints and aromas of fresh fruits – a result of the highaltitude vineyard plots.”
Announcing Aldi’s partnership with the BBC Good Food Winter Shows Join the fun at the BBC Good Show Supertheatre this winter (4-6 November, Glasgow SECC; 11-13 November, London Olympia; 24-27 November, Birmingham NEC), sponsored by Aldi. The perfect way to prep for the festive season, celebrity chefs including Mary Berry, Paul Hollywood, Michel Roux Jr and Tom Kerridge will be creating a host of delicious Christmas recipes using quality ingredients. Visitors to the show can also visit the Aldi stand to sample a host of delectable products – from Specially Selected Exquisite Mince Pies to the award-winning Champagne Veuve Monsigny by Philizot & Fils. Master of Wine Sam Caporn will be on hand to guide you through a selection of Aldi’s finest wines, and trained mixologists will create a variety seasonal cocktails perfect for getting the festive spirit going.
Visit aldi.co.uk to explore the full Aldi range or head to your local store � @AldiUK
Popcorn three ways, p126 122 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Settle down on the sofa and enjoy a ilm with these crowd-pleasing snacks â€“ they all deserve star billing! recipes CHELSIE COLLINS photographs TOM REGESTER
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 123
Honey-glazed chicken wings SERVES 6 (as a snack) PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY
1kg pack chicken wings 2 tbsp clear honey 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp sesame seeds 100ml soured cream 100ml buttermilk 100g mayonnaise 2 tsp lemon juice pinch of smoked paprika 2 red chillies, deseeded and inely sliced celery sticks, halved, to serve baby carrots, peeled, to serve
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 6. Put the chicken wings in a large roasting tin. Mix the honey, soy and 1 /2 tbsp sesame seeds in a bowl, then pour over the wings. Use your hands to mix and ensure all the wings are coated, then roast for 20 mins until cooked through, sticky and golden. 2 Meanwhile, combine the soured cream, buttermilk, mayonnaise, lemon juice and paprika. Season well, then chill until ready to serve. 3 When the wings are cooked, scatter over the remaining sesame seeds and the chilli. Serve with the dip, and some carrot and celery sticks for dunking. PER SERVING 413 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 7g • carbs 12g • sugars 11g • ibre 1g • protein 24g • salt 1.6g
Raspberry lemonade slushies MAKES 6 small slushies PREP 10 mins NO COOK V
600g frozen raspberries juice 3 lemons 225ml soda water 9 ice cubes (roughly 170g) 3 tbsp agave nectar
Put all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and blitz until you get a smooth slush. Divide between six jars or cups to serve. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • vit c • gluten free PER SLUSHIE 65 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 12g • sugars 11g • ibre 3g • protein 1g • salt none
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Nachodums Nachos meet poppadums and live happily ever after! SERVES 4 6 (as a snack) PREP 15 mins COOK 5 7 mins EASY V
2 large tomatoes, deseeded and inely chopped 1 small red onion, inely chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and inely sliced 1 tbsp vegetable oil
225g paneer, cut into chunks 200g natural yogurt 1 /2 cucumber, inely chopped 1 /2 small pack mint, leaves only, roughly chopped 100g poppadums, crushed 4 6 tsp mango chutney
1 Combine the tomatoes, onion and chilli with some seasoning in a bowl to make a salsa, then set aside. 2 Heat the oil in a frying pan, then fry the paneer on both sides until golden.
3 Make a raita by combining the yogurt, cucumber and most of the mint, then season with some salt. 4 Put the crushed poppadums in a large dish, pour the raita over, followed by the salsa, then top with the paneer. Dollop spoonfuls of chutney over, scatter over the remaining mint and dig in. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 269 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 7g • carbs 15g • sugars 7g • ibre 2g • protein 15g • salt 1.1g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 125
S’mores dip A twist on the classic American campfire treat. SERVES 8 (as a snack) PREP 10 mins COOK 6 7 mins EASY
200g milk chocolate 2 tbsp full-fat milk 350g mini marshmallows To serve 100g digestive biscuits 100g strawberries, washed and hulled 100g pineapple chunks skewers
1 Heat the chocolate, milk and 200g of the marshmallows in an ovenproof frying pan over a low heat until melted and smooth. Top with the remaining marshmallows in circles so that the whole surface is covered. 2 Grill on high for 1-2 mins until the marshmallows are toasted. Serve with digestives and strawberry and pineapple skewers for dunking. PER SERVING 349 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 6g • carbs 58g • sugars 44g • ibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.3g
Bacon butter popcorn
Brown sugar & cinnamon glazed popcorn
Caramel marshmallow popcorn
SERVES 6 8 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V
SERVES 6 8 PREP 10 mins COOK 35 mins EASY
Put the 1 tspb olive oil in a large, non-stick frying pan with a tightfitting lid. Add 200g streaky bacon cut into chunks. Cook for 8-10 mins until the fat has been released and the bacon is crisp, then transfer to a plate using a slotted spoon. Put 25g popcorn kernels in the pan and coat in the fatty bacon residue. Cover with a lid and cook until the corn is nearly all popped – about 4 mins). Melt 1 tbsp unsalted butter in the microwave for 10 secs. Once the popcorn has puffed up, coat in the butter and scatter over the bacon and a little salt.
Put 50g light brown sugar in a small saucepan with 2 tbsp water and dissolve over a gentle heat. Bring to the boil, but don’t stir at all. When the sugar is a dark golden caramel colour, whisk in 10g butter. Remove from the heat and pour in 3 tbsp double cream (stand back as it may spit), stir vigorously, then add a sprinkle of ground cinnamon. Pop 25g popcorn kernels in a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid for 4 mins, then remove from the heat and pour over the sugar glaze, tossing the popcorn until evenly coated.
Heat 2 tspb olive oil in a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid and coat 25g popcorn kernels in it. Cover, pop for 4 mins, then remove from the heat. Put 20g marshmallows in a saucepan over a gentle heat. Once they have melted, stir in 200g caramel, warm through, then drizzle over the puffed-up popcorn.
GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (8) 131 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 3g • carbs 6g • sugars none • ibre 1g • protein 7g • salt 1.1g
GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (8) 89 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 4g • carbs 6g • sugars 6g • ibre none • protein none • salt 0.1g
SERVES 6 8 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
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GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (8) 120 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 1g • carbs 21g • sugars 15g • ibre 1g • protein 2g • salt 0.1g
For more family recipes for your movie nights, visit bbcgoodfood.com.
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supplement. Additional entrance costs may apply. †For 2017 Hotel Mediterraneo is breakfast only. Images used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/enquiring if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
To request a brochure, call 01283 742398. To book, visit gfdriviera.co.uk OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 127
Eneko at One Aldwych Contemporary Basque cuisine is all about bold lavours. We’ve simpli ied recipes from the new restaurant at One Aldwych so they are easier to cook at home without losing any of the impact recipes ENEKO ATXA photographs DAVID COTSWORTH
Chelsie Collins, our Cookery writer, is always eating out to get fresh ideas. Each month, she adapts the standout dishes from a new restaurant to create a menu that you can cook at home. @chelsiecollins1
asque cuisine is having a moment right now, so when I heard that Eneko Atxa, of three-Michelin-starred Azurmendi in Bilbao, Spain, was opening a restaurant in Covent Garden, I was really excited. I got to meet Eneko
128 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
and his lovely head chef Edurne Martín Delgado, who has worked closely with Eneko since 2006. Her excitement at bringing Basque food to London is evident as she talked me through her favourite dishes. Not only did I get to see behind the scenes of a seamlessly run kitchen, I also plated up their fried hake dish (recipe on p132) and, thanks to my steady hand, was offered a job by Eneko himself! It was quite a day. Eneko at One Aldwych is a special occasion destination, with a contemporary look and a smart
vibe – wear something stylish. The cooking is knockout, particularly the dreamy dessert buffet trolley, and the selection of Spanish wines includes some straight from Eneko’s own vineyards. eneko.london
Listen to Eneko talk about a rare violet-coloured onion from the Basque region on Radio 4's Food Programme on BBC iPlayer Radio.
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Beetroot tartare This is an ideal dinner party starter, as you can prepare the dish ahead and make the finishing touches just before serving. To speed up the method, you could top the tartare with three baby pickled onions from a jar instead of frying the capers. Rather than making crispbreads, you could snap Melba toasts into shards and stick them in for added crunch. SERVES 2 (easily doubled) PREP 35 mins plus 2 hrs chilling COOK 10 mins EASY V
For the crispbread 2 very thin slices of stale bread, crusts removed 1 tbsp olive oil For the pickled red onion 2 tbsp dry white wine 2 tsp white wine vinegar 1 tsp caster sugar 1 bay leaf 2 black peppercorns 1 /4 red onion, cut into two wedges and layers pulled apart to look like petals For the tartare 160g cooked beetroot 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp double cream For the fried capers 10 capers 4 tbsp sun lower oil
1 First, make the crispbreads. Cut the bread into squares (three or four per person). Heat the grill to its highest setting. Put the bread on a baking tray, drizzle over the oil and grill on each side for 1-2 mins until crisp and golden.
recipe online Etxano 75 – a Basque twist on the classic French 75 champagne cocktail
2 For the pickled red onion, mix the wine, wine vinegar, sugar, bay leaf, peppercorns, 1/2 tsp salt and 2 tbsp water in a saucepan. Add the onion and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook gently for 5 mins. Leave to cool, then chill for about 2 hrs to infuse the flavours. 3 To make the tartare, finely chop half the beetroot. Blitz the the other half in a food processor with the olive oil to make a rough paste, then combine with the chopped beetroot and cream. Season to taste. 4 Rinse the capers and pat dry. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a high heat.
Add the capers and fry for 30 secs until they have started to open up, then put on kitchen paper to drain. 5 To serve, place a ring (about 6-8cm) on a plate. Put the beetroot mixture into the ring, then remove it. Put three or four pieces of crispbread and a few slices of pickled red onion on top and decorate with the capers. GOOD TO KNOW folate • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 371 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 7g • carbs 23g • sugars 12g • ibre 4g • protein 5g • salt 2.2g
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 131
Fried hake with peppers This is a very traditional Basque fish plate. At Eneko, the chefs roast lots of red peppers and squeeze out their juice to make the glossy sauce. To save you from cooking so many peppers at home, I’ve adapted it slightly – puréeing raw peppers and cooking them with balsamic vinegar gives a similar result. The punchy flavour works really well with the crispy hake. SERVES 2 PREP 50 mins COOK 1 hr 5 mins MORE EFFORT
For the red pepper sauce 3 large red peppers, halved and deseeded 4 tbsp light brown soft sugar 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar For the peppers 3 tbsp olive oil 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1 shallot, inely chopped 1 small garlic clove, crushed pinch of caster sugar 2 roasted red peppers from a jar, thinly sliced
Vanilla panna cotta with violet ganache This dish is inspired by a traditional Basque dessert, gatzatua (or mamia) – a creamy milk pudding that is usually eaten on its own or with honey and nuts. At Eneko, the panna cotta is served encased in a white chocolate ring. As tempering chocolate isn’t the easiest thing to do at home, I’ve simplified things in this version; it tastes just as good. SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins plus 2 hrs chilling COOK 20 mins MORE EFFORT
For the panna cotta sun lower oil, for greasing the moulds 11/2 sheets leaf gelatine 225ml double cream 1 vanilla pod, halved lengthways and seeds scraped out 60g caster sugar
132 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
For the parsley mayo 35g parsley 21/2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp mayonnaise For the hake 2 hake illets, skin removed (120g each) 200g plain lour 100g corn lour vegetable oil, for deep frying
1 Whizz the halved peppers into a pulp using a liquidiser or food processor. Pour the pulp through a double layer of muslin and squeeze all the liquid into a jug. Top up with water to give you 400ml liquid, then transfer to a pan, add the brown sugar and gently simmer until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the vinegar, season to taste, then rapidly boil until the sauce is glossy, thick and syrupy. Set aside. 2 Meanwhile, prepare the peppers. Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the red onion, shallot, garlic and sugar, and cook gently for 15-20 mins until slightly broken down and softening. Add the roasted red peppers and season with salt and a little black pepper.
For the ganache 150g white chocolate 70ml double cream 6 drops violet essence To decorate 3 dried apricots, cut into thin strips 2 crystallised violet petals (optional, available from Fortnum & Mason, Harrods or souschef.co.uk)
1 Grease two 125ml ramekins or darioles with a good amount of oil. Soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water for 5-8 mins until soft, then squeeze to get rid of excess water. Meanwhile, gently heat the cream in a saucepan and add the vanilla seeds and sugar. Cook until the sugar has dissolved but make sure that the cream doesn't boil. Take off the heat, then add the gelatine and mix until dissolved. 2 Divide the mixture between the ramekins, leave to cool, then put in the fridge for at least 11/2 hrs until set.
3 To make the mayo, use a hand blender or small processor to blitz the parsley with the olive oil, then strain through a layer of muslin. Add 21/2 tbsp of the parsley oil to the mayo and stir to combine. Spoon into a piping bag fitted with a small nozzle or snip the end off the bag to make a small hole. Chill in the fridge. 4 For the hake, first check that there are no bones in the fillets. Put 4 tbsp plain flour on a plate and season, then dip the fillets in the flour to coat. 5 Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan or deep fat fryer to 180C or until a cube of bread browns in 10 secs. Mix the remaining plain flour and cornflour with 350ml cold water and season to taste. Dip each fillet into this tempura batter, then fry the fish for 8 mins until crisp. Drain on kitchen paper. 6 To serve, reheat the red pepper sauce, then spoon some onto a plate, followed by a spoonful of the peppers. Put the hake on top, along with blobs of the parsley mayo. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • folate • ibre PER SERVING 809 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 3g • carbs 110g • sugars 48g • ibre 7g • protein 29g • salt 0.4g
3 Melt the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of justsimmering water. In a separate pan, heat the cream until steaming and add the violet essence. Stir the violet cream into the chocolate, then chill for 1 hr until firm. 4 To serve, turn each panna cotta out onto a plate. Using two teaspoons dipped in hot water make quenelles from the ganache and place on top. Decorate with apricot strips and crystallised violet petals, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING787 kcals • fat 68g • saturates 42g • carbs 39 • sugars 39g • ibre none • protein 4g • salt 0.1g
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To order your meat call 01467 629666 quoting bbcgf1610 or visit donaldrussell.com/bbcgf1610 Terms and conditions Donald Russell Ltd, Harlaw Road, Inverurie, Aberdeenshire, Scotland, AB51 4FR. Lines open Monday-Friday 8am-8pm, Saturday 9am-4pm and Sunday 10am-4pm. Strictly limited to one per household. *Free delivery is available for UK mainland only. Additional surcharges are as follows: guaranteed morning delivery £4 (Tuesday – Friday); Saturday delivery £4; Northern Ireland (Tuesday-Friday) £7. Jersey & Guernsey (Tuesday-Friday) £7. Selected EU countries – call us to discuss. If in doubt, please call irst to check. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other Donald Russell offer. Offer expires 31 December 2016. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/enquiring if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
To order, call 01467 629666 quoting bbcgf1610 or visit donaldrussell.com/ bbcgf1610 OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 133
Spooky spider cake Put a new spin on chocolate cake with this dramatic bake – it makes a stunning Halloween centrepiece Edd Kimber won the irst series of The Great British Bake Off in 2010. He is now a food writer, stylist and cookbook author, and blogs at theboywhobakes.co.uk. @theboywhobakes
Spider’s web cake This cake uses my all-time favourite icing – silky-smooth Swiss meringue buttercream. The key is to make sure the meringue has fully cooled before adding the butter – if it’s too hot, the butter will melt and the mixture may split. Thankfully, it’s easy to put right. If the buttercream looks too wet, pop it in the fridge for 10 minutes, then continue to whisk. If it looks split, keep whisking and it will eventually combine and become a smooth buttercream. SERVES 15 PREP 1 hr 15 mins COOK 40 mins MORE EFFORT G sponges only
For the cake 110g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing 3 tbsp cocoa powder 140ml chocolate stout (we used Young’s Double Chocolate Stout, available from Tesco) 170g white caster sugar 170g light brown soft sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 3 large eggs, lightly beaten 100g dark chocolate, melted and cooled 280g plain lour 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
For the white chocolate buttercream 3 large egg whites 240g caster sugar 360g unsalted butter, room temperature 200g white chocolate, melted and cooled To decorate 100g white mini marshmallows 25g black sugar paste
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease three 20cm round cake tins and line the bases with baking parchment. To make the cake, put the cocoa in a bowl, add 280ml boiling water and whisk until dissolved. Pour in the stout, mix, then set aside to cool. 2 In a stand mixer or a large bowl using an electric hand whisk, beat together the butter, both sugars and vanilla extract until light and fluffy (about 5 mins). Add the eggs little by little, mixing until fully incorporated before adding more. Once all the egg has been added, spoon in the melted chocolate and mix to combine. 3 In another bowl, mix the flour, bicarb and 1/2 tsp salt. Add this mixture to the butter mixture in three stages, alternating with the stout mixture (which will be very runny). Pour the batter equally between the prepared tins and bake for 25-30 mins until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tins for 10 mins, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. 4 To make the buttercream, put the egg whites and sugar in a heatproof bowl and set over a pan of gently simmering water. Stir with a whisk until the sugar has dissolved and
134 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
the mixture is warm to the touch. Remove the bowl from the heat and beat with an electric hand whisk on high speed until the mixture has tripled in volume and has cooled down. Slowly add the butter 1 tbsp at a time while continuing to whisk. Once all the butter has been added, the mixture should look glossy and thick – if it doesn’t, keep whisking until it does, or if the bowl still feels warm, chill for 10 mins before whisking again. Once ready, mix in the melted white chocolate. 5 To assemble the cake, put one of the cake layers on a cake stand and top with a layer of buttercream. Repeat with the other two layers. Spread the remaining buttercream all over the cake, using a spatula or palette knife to smooth the sides. Chill for 1 hr or until the buttercream is firm (see tip, right). 6 To decorate, melt the marshmallows in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, stirring from time to time. Remove from the heat and put to one side for a few mins until the mixture is cool enough to handle. Use your fingers to grab a small amount of the marshmallow and stretch it out to form long strands (dipping your fingers in vegetable or sunflower oil will help!). Drape the strands over the cake in a random pattern, so it’s thoroughly covered. Create a spider using the sugar paste (roll two balls, one bigger than the other, for the body, and thin strands for the legs) and place on top of the cake. Will keep for up to three days in an airtight container. PER SERVING 595 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 21g • carbs 64g • sugars 49g • ibre 2g • protein 6g • salt 0.7g
Food styling EDD KIMBER Styling LUIS PERAL
recipe EDD KIMBER photograph TOM REGESTER
TIP To make sure the decoration looks its best, chill the cake until the buttercream is very irm before you add the cobwebs. Once inished, let the cake sit at room temperature for a few hours so the buttercream can soften again. Catch The Great British Bake Off every Wednesday at 8pm on BBC One.
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 135
A winning combination When you make a special meal using fresh and creamy Philadelphia, it’s worth sharing – take inspiration from Jo Wheatley and the #Philadelphiaheaven competition winner’s tasty recipes
home-cooked meal that tastes fantastic deserves to be shared – especially one that’s been brought to life with Philadelphia. Fresh in taste and creamy in texture, everyone loves the quality cream cheese, whether it’s in a sweet treat or savoury feast.
Philadelphia, chicken & pancetta pasta SERVES 4
PREP 10 mins
COOK 20 mins
4 skinless chicken breasts 2 thyme sprigs and 2 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked and chopped 50g pancetta, cubed 300g farfalle pasta 150g frozen peas 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp butter 120g Philadelphia Sweet Chilli, plus extra to serve juice of lemon
1 Lay each chicken breast between sheets of baking parchment and bash with a rolling pin until half as thick. Sprinkle with the chopped herbs and season. 2 Dry-fry the pancetta until crispy, then set aside until needed. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and cook the pasta according to pack instructions. When it has just 2 mins left to cook, add the peas. 3 Meanwhile, heat the oil and half the butter in a pan over a medium heat, add 2 chicken breasts and fry for 2-3 mins on each side until cooked through. Keep warm, then repeat with the remaining chicken breasts. 4 Save a ladle of the pasta water, then drain the pasta and tip back into the pan. Stir in the Philadelphia, pancetta, lemon juice and the reserved pasta water. 5 To serve, divide the pasta between four bowls. Slice the chicken, place on top and finish with a spoonful of Philadelphia.
Good Food reader and rookiecook.org blogger, @rookiecook , created a recipe so good she knew she had to share it. She posted her #Philadelphiaheaven on Instagram for the chance for it to appear in this issue, and won! Try her delicious savoury tart recipe (opposite), which stood out from all the other
competition entries. The fresh Philadelphia Original in it is the ideal counterpart to the rich, buttery pastry. And if that’s not enough to inspire you, try food writer and TV baker Jo Wheatley’s quick and tasty pasta dish (below). Ideal for enjoying with friends, the Philadelphia Sweet Chilli adds a lovely subtle kick.
Winnineg recip “ I can always rely on Philadelphia, its creaminess adds great taste and texture to anything”
Philadelphia tart #Philadelphiaheaven SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins plus chilling COOK 1 hr plus cooling EASY
For the pastry 175g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 75g butter, chilled and cubed 1 medium egg, beaten, plus extra for brushing the tart For the filling 2 medium eggs and 1 egg yolk 300ml double cream 25g grated Parmesan, plus extra to serve 1 tbsp thyme leaves, chopped, plus extra to serve 280g Philadelphia Original To serve 150g sundried tomatoes 100ml extra virgin olive oil
1 To make the pastry, whizz the flour, butter and a pinch of salt together in a food processor until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the
For more delicious ideas, along with how-to videos and nutritional information, visit bbcgoodfood.com/philadelphia
beaten egg, pulse and bring together into a ball. 2 On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to the thickness of a £1 coin and use to line a loose-based 20cm x 3.5cm tart tin (leave the overhang). Chill for 30 mins. 3 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put a baking sheet in the oven. Line the tart with baking parchment and fill with baking beans. Place on the baking sheet and blind-bake for 15 mins. Remove the paper and beans, prick all over with a fork, brush with some egg and bake for another 10 mins. Remove and allow to cool. Trim the edges using a sharp knife. 4 For the filling, lightly whisk the eggs, yolk, cream, Parmesan and thyme and season well. Spread the Philadelphia evenly in the pastry case, and pour over the filling. 5 Sprinkle over the remaining Parmesan and thyme and bake for 35 mins until almost set. Take out and leave to cool for 30 mins. Whizz the sundried tomatoes and oil together, and serve with the tart.
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r be to Oc 28 For the most succulent centrepieceâ€Ś Brine-roasted turkey
recipe calendar 12 brand-new recipes for 2017
OCTOBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 139
Marinated Norwegian Fjord Trout with coriander, lime & celery & apple salad SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins plus 8 hrs curing NO COOK
Ambassador Daniel Galmiche’s tip: ‘Do not apply too much weight to the fish if you’re making more than one batch – stack the fillets on top of each other to avoid crushing or dried edges.’ 600g piece of Fjord Trout, skin on 2 tbsp fine sea salt 2 tbsp caster sugar 1 tsp crushed coriander seeds leaves from a pack of celery, torn small bunch of coriander, leaves torn 1 green apple, sliced into batons 2 tbsp olive oil juice of 1 lime
1 Lay the Fjord Trout, skin-side down, on a large piece of cling film. Mix together the salt, sugar and coriander seeds and sprinkle over the fish, then finish with a little pepper. 2 Wrap in cling film, then place it on a baking tray. 3 Chill for at least 8 hours, depending on the thickness of the fish. 4 Remove from the fridge and carefully rinse under cold water to remove any remaining cure, then pat dry with kitchen towel. 5 Slice thinly and arrange on serving plates, then top with the celery and coriander leaves, apple batons, some seasoning and the olive oil. Drizzle over a little lime juice, just before serving.
Fresh from the fjord Try something new today such as Norwegian Fjord Trout. Exceptional in both taste and quality, it’s also versatile, healthy, 100 per cent sustainable and available all year round
orwegian Fjord Trout is arguably the nearest you’ll get to purity on a plate. That’s no surprise, given it comes from Norway’s cold, clear fjords. The fjords are fed by pure glacial meltwater, which meets with Arctic seawater for some of the best conditions on the planet for raising healthy – and delicious – fish. Norwegian Fjord Trout is farmed with the utmost care, drawing on centuries of knowledge and adhering to world-leading sustainability practices. The fish start life close to the pure glacial streams that feed the fjord. As they grow, they go into deeper waters and continue to grow slowly with plenty of space, sustainable feed and a natural flow of currents.
This results in vibrant and lean flesh, with a texture that feels firm at first, but then melts in your mouth. The taste is delicate (more so than other oily fish) and pure, with a hint of nutty sweetness, making it ideal in dishes such as sashimi and ceviche. It’s also tasty gently grilled or baked with citrus fruits and herbs – although it’s best cooked at low temperatures, to keep it lovely and pink while retaining the flavoursome oils. It’s low-fat and an excellent source of protein and Omega-3 too. No wonder it’s a favourite with leading chef and Norwegian Seafood ambassador Daniel Galmiche – see his serving suggestions for the recipe, left.
Look out for Norwegian Fjord Trout in selected Tesco stores and fishmongers soon
City breaks with a difference, insider's guide to Glasgow, plus a drop of Welsh cider
Spectacular scenery, sandy beaches, top-notch tapas and possibly the worldâ€™s best gin & tonics make the north coast of Mallorca the perfect spot for a family holiday
The church and main square in PollenĂ§a
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The coastal village of Deià LEFT Fresh sardines at Sineu market
allorca, or Majorca, is one of those wonderful travel clichés: an island that suits everyone. Glorious sandy beaches and clear blue seas, a food scene that is both traditional and modern, smart bars serving goblets of gin & tonic and inventive tapas, plus miles of winding roads through rugged mountain scenery, perfect for drivers with well-honed clutch control. The island has been brushing up on its cuisine in recent years, from high-end restaurants to cafés and family-run rural establishments that you can eat well in wherever you go, which makes choosing where to stay much easier. Palma, capital of the Balearic Islands, is one of Europe’s most accessible cities. It is set in a sweeping bay with winding old-town streets and a bustling port at its core. It’s worth spending a day or two in the hip former fishermen’s settlement of Santa Catalina at one end of your holiday, but with a family in tow it’s best to head north to the coast around Pollença and Alcúdia. The sandy beaches are extensive and the resorts low-key: sunset
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stroll and a civilised drink affairs. From here you can explore the hills and jaw-dropping sea cliffs that taper off the Serra de Tramuntana mountains down the Peninsula de Formentor, and the honey-coloured towns across the bays and the Parc Natural de S’Albufera wetlands from their hilltop perches.
snack/lunch menu offers tapas, salads and bocadillos (rolls), so if all you want is a drink and a sandwich, or a plate of Padrón peppers, it won’t break the bank to sit on the modern terrace and while away some time (snacks from £3). In the evening, the more extensive menu features plenty of seafood and a decent wine list.
When to go Beach season in Mallorca extends from May to the end of September, and during these months it’s best to be close to water – August is stiflingly hot and Mallorcans can’t imagine why you’d want to rush around doing anything. In spring and autumn you can take much better advantage of walking, cycling and other outdoor activities, but bear in mind that there will be fewer places open after the October half-term ends through to Easter. Travel and accommodation will also be cheaper.
Where to eat Restaurant Stay (stayrestaurant. com) on the Moll Nou jetty, Port de Pollença, is a lovely spot looking out over the beach and port. The
Café C’an Moixet is the least flash-looking but best place to eat tapas and have a drink on the Plaça Major (main square) in Pollença old town. The whole square fills up in the evenings and you can enjoy a meal in peace while your children make new friends and play within eyesight. Also in Pollença, Clivia ( facebook. com/Cliviarestaurant) is the type of family-run establishment that tourists return to year after year to eat sea bass, hake, lobster paella and Soller prawns (two courses from £25). It has white linen tablecloths and a pretty, modern shaded courtyard, but isn’t in the least bit stuffy, and children are always welcome.
eat like a local
Exploring Alcúdia old town
Photographs DOUG PEARSON AWL IMAGES, REINHARD SCHMID 4CORNERS, ALAMY, GETTY
Casal Santa Eulàlia BELOW LEFT Ensaïmada pastries BELOW RIGHT Mallorca produces a number of gins
Casa Gallega (casagallegaalcudia. com) in Port d’Alcudia is relatively unassuming and rustic looking, but has an excellent tapas selection, ranging from pimientos de Padrón (in season) to grilled cockles and razor clams, or grilled octopus with potatoes and sweet peppers, as well as cheeses and very good steaks. There’s also a kids’ menu. Try to bag a table on the terrace. Restaurant es Casal (casalsantaeulalia.com) at Casal Santa Eulàlia, serves modern Med dishes such as prawn carpaccio with pink peppercorns, and grilled Mallorcan black pork with baked apple & rosemary yogurt (three courses £29) and has a kids' menu; you can eat inside or out on the terrace under the stars. On Wednesday nights there’s a fish ‘barbecue’ by the pool. Enjoy frito Mallorquin (fried fish, squid and prawns) followed by a fish tumbet (casserole) packed with prawns and shellfish. Booking essential.
Where to stay Stay at a hotel set in a rustic stone-clad finca a little way off the
beaten track, such as Casal Santa Eulàlia, which has swimming pools and an excellent restaurant on site. You’ll also have a buffet breakfast of stupendous proportions, plus a haven of peace to return to at the end of the day. Book Calsal Santa Eulàlia through Sawday’s from £195 per night for a double room, including breakfast (sawdays. co.uk/casalsantaeulalia).
Local knowledge • Coca is the Mallorcan equivalent of a yeasted latbread. It can be savoury or sweet. Coca desnuda (with no clothes) is plain and sometimes with a hole in the centre; coca tapada is stuffed with a illing; and coca abierta has a topping just like a pizza. • If you are driving, you need to be aware that addresses are often given as a place on a named road but with a kilometre mark instead of a street number – for example, Santa Margalida and Alcúdia at Km1.8. Our satnav wasn’t always helpful with this kind of address.
5 foodie things to do Visit Sineu market in the centre of the island on a Wednesday for a full local experience, complete with livestock auctions (get there around 8am for these). Market shopping is an excellent way to immerse yourself in a culture, and any stall selling kitchenware reveals how the locals cook at home, along with being a good source of useful souvenirs. El Sol bar and restaurant (sunshine-bar.net) is the only joint on Son Serra beach and here, in a slightly hippie setting, you’ll ind cocktails and cake, plus lavish salads, Thai curry and black rice with prawns. Come here to watch kite sur ing and chill out. Santa Catalina indoor food market (mercatde santacatalina.com) is the oldest in Palma (open Mon-
Sat, 7am-5pm). Shop or eat tapas standing at one of the bars. Look out for sobrasada, a local raw, cured sausage; snail-like ensaïmada pastries dusted with icing sugar; and coca bread (see Local knowledge, left). Take the old narrow gauge train from Palma to Sóller (trendesoller.com), then the tram from Sóller to Port de Sóller through the orange groves, and lunch on the terrace of King isher restaurant (king ishersoller.com) overlooking the port. Drink gin & tonic or gin cocktails at the tables outside Ginbo in Palma. With more than 100 gins to choose from – including the local Cabraboc, Onze and Gin Eva – you might like to try more than one. In which case ordering their snacks will help!
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Glasgow From outsized steaks and inventive vegan pub grub to a police box selling grilled cheese, here’s where to eat in this buzzy city words JAMES LEES
Ox and Finch
The Butchershop Bar & Grill
A few years ago, Jon MacDonald made a splash in the Glasgow food scene with his Street Food Cartel pop-up, but has now settled permanently into his first restaurant. Ox and Finch is the jewel in the crown of Finnieston, Glasgow’s hottest foodie spot. The menu is made up of small sharing plates from £2.75. Standouts include confit hogget shoulder with tahini yogurt, pomegranate & rose harissa, and gin & beetroot-cured salmon. Tables fill up quickly – advance booking is highly recommended. oxandfinch.com SO, CD
As the name might suggest, it’s all about the meat – here you’ll find the best steaks in Glasgow in a stylish setting. The côte de boeuf is grass-fed and dry-aged, and the eye-popping tomahawk (bone-in rib steak) is made for sharing. The staff are knowledgeable and can help with wine pairings. Steaks from £17.95. butchershopglasgow.com SO, CD
Restaurateur James Rusk spent £1.3 million on renovating this A-list building to create one of the most beautiful steak and seafood spots in Scotland. Set over three floors, it’s very Sixties New York – sipping an Old Fashioned at the bar is a must. Starters cost from £5.95 and mains from £14.95. Try the cuttlefish ink risotto, followed by the roasted Shetland monkfish tail – great to look at and packed with flavour. hutchesonsglasgow.com SO
The Gannet Occupying a formerly derelict tenement building in Finnieston, The Gannet’s innovative, ever-changing menu is created with the finest Scottish produce. Enjoy pig’s head croquette and pan-fried stone bass in beautiful, intimate surroundings. Don’t leave without trying the Stornoway black pudding Scotch duck egg – it will be one of the best things you’ll ever eat. Main courses start at £15. thegannetgla.com SO
Crabshakk A Glasgow institution, Crabshakk has been wowing diners with the best of Scottish seafood since 2009. Freshness is prized so much that the specials menu changes twice daily. The fish club sandwich is the star; the shellfish chowder is devilishly indulgent. It’s a small restaurant so it’s best to book. Dishes start at £4.15. crabshakk.com SO, CD 144 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Mother India’s ethos is ‘try a little and taste a lot’, and there’s lots to taste here. Indian tapas are the game and sharing is the way to order – but you may just find yourself fighting with your dining companions over the chilli garlic chicken and the aloo saag dosa – a rice & lentil pancake stuffed with potato and spinach. The service ranks among the friendliest in the city. Tapas dishes from £2.95. motherindia.co.uk CD
The Hanoi Bike Shop This cute Vietnamese canteen, down a lane in Glasgow’s West End, prepares its own tofu from scratch every day. If you think you don’t like tofu, it’s because you haven’t tried the black pepper version here. There are also meaty noodle bowls bursting with flavour, as well as separate gluten-free and vegan menus. A real gem. Street food dishes from £5.45. hanoibikeshop.co.uk CD, KF
Bloc In charge of the kitchen at Bloc is ‘the Mad Chef’, who got his name when his Buckfast ice cream and Irn Bru pulled pork creations went viral online. Bloc has plenty of cool, edgy attitude but it’s still a crowd-pleaser. There’s something for everyone on this menu – impressive burgers and incredible vegan pub grub, including the not dog (veggie dog with lentils, sweet potato, butternut squash, tahini, avocado cheese sauce and Quorn chilli), which would bowl over even the most ardent meat-lover. Dishes from £4.95. bloc.ru CD, CE
Bread Meats Bread Located on St Vincent Street, in the heart of Glasgow’s ‘burger district’, it’s rare not to queue for a table at Bread Meats Bread, but it’s worth the wait. Award-winning burgers and a relaxed atmosphere keep diners coming back for more. The Cali burger, with its mustard-fried beef patties, is the star of the show. Burgers from £6. breadmeatsbread.com CD, CE, KF
111 by Nico What’s not to love about a bistro that offers great-value, creative, delicious food and mentors young people from underprivileged backgrounds? It’s a bit off the beaten track, but 111 by Nico does nearly everything right– the thoughtfully created dishes are visually stunning. The menu changes weekly, but try the smoked ham (hough) hock if it’s on offer. Three courses for £22. 111bynico.co.uk SO, CD James Lees explores Glasgow’s food scene and writes the blog James vs Burger, but limits his intake to one a week. @jamesvsburger
SUITABLE FOR CD casual dining CE cheap eat KF kid friendly SO special occasion
Photographs CAROL ANN PEACOCK, AWL IMAGES, GETTYIMAGES, MORAG McLEAN, ALAMY
Mother India’s Café
eat like a local
Ox and Finch
Brew Box Coffee Company
5 places to shop & eat • El Perro Negro This regular pop-up is home to Scotland’s inest burgers, and tickets sell out fast. Try the top dog: a rare-breed patty with bone marrow and Roquefort butter. @PerroNegroGlas • Let’s Eat Glasgow! This street food festival of the best restaurants in Glasgow supports social enterprises helping disadvantaged people. letseatglasgow.co.uk • Tantrum Doughnuts Doughnuts to get excited about. Flavours include pistachio & hibiscus as well as sureire favourites. tantrumdoughnuts.com • Brew Box Coffee Company A unique micro-café operating from a police ‘Tardis’ in Merchant City serving grilled cheese and coffees. Ask for the lamin’ New Yorker. facebook.com/brewboxcoffeecompany/ • The Big Vegan Fête A monthly event at the Flying Duck club that features independent vegan businesses selling food, arts and crafts. lyingduckclub.com
Don’t miss the BBC Good Food Show at Glasgow SECC, 4 6 Nov. To book tickets, visit bbcgoodfoodshowscotland.com, or turn to page 92. • Visit bbcgoodfood.com for more places to eat in Glasgow.
Glasgow’s West End
The Hanoi Bike shop Bread Meats Bread
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SIX QUICK TRIPS
Make yourself at home For a city break with a difference, book an apartment where you can live – and eat – like the natives
The French capital is still a city where locals shop little and often – fresh bread is bought once, if not twice, daily, and every neighbourhood is a foodie microcosm. In Montmartre, you’ll find the ‘bobo’ (bohemian-bourgeois) Rue des Martyrs, where you should stop for coffee or a brunch of Comté, ham and boiled egg at Café Marlette (cafemarlette.fr), with its wood and white-bricked walls, or a drink at La Fourmi (standing room only at the weekends). Go to Rue Caulaincourt to buy chocolate from Arnaud Larher (arnaudlarher.com). On Rue des Abbesses, Le Grenier à Pain (legrenierapain.com) offers award-winning baguettes, from 2 (£1.75); La Butte
Best for NEW NORDIC CUISINE Reykjavik, Iceland
Fromagère has plenty of cheeses to try, and La Cave des Abbesses offers a good selection of wines, plus plates of rillettes, meats and cheeses to snack on. Local food markets include Marché Barbès on Boulevard de la Chapelle and the larger, covered Marché SaintQuentin , which is open all week (markets generally operate Tuesday to Sunday – find a complete list at en.parisinfo.com). When not taking advantage of your kitchen, dine on modern French bistro dishes,
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such as onglet and coconut crème brûlée from the daily-changing menu at La Balançoire (restaurant labalancoire.fr), with mains from about 16 (£14).
How to do it Citadines (citadines.com) has comfortable, child-friendly apartments with kitchens, city wide. The ones in Montmartre have a roof terrace with views over the city, the Blanche metro stop on your doorstep, and Gare du Nord conveniently close for the Eurostar. Sleeping four, they cost from 164 (£137) per night. Lulu Grimes
Known more for the Northern Lights and Blue Lagoon than its foodie scene, Iceland is nonetheless having a culinary moment. Its gastronomic offerings have never been better, and friendly Sigrún’s spacious and tastefully decorated two-bedroom apartment, on airbnb.co.uk, is just a 10-minute bus ride from the city centre. Start the day at downtown retro café C Is For Cookie, a great local breakfast spot with good espresso and fab cakes, including an incredible cheesecake (from about £3). To keep on the right gastronomic track,
Photographs GETTY, ALAMY, STOCKFOOD GRÄFE & UNZER VERLAG WOLFGANG SCHADT
Best for NEIGHBOURHOOD CAFES & BISTROS Paris
eat like a local Best for TAPAS AND OUTDOOR EATING Seville, Spain Andalusian paradise Seville has everything you need for an incredible trip: sun, photogenic sights and endless food options. The cobbled streets that twist and turn off La Alameda de Hércules are the perfect start. Here, at the top end of the plaza, you’ll find Marta’s cute and compact apartment on airbnb.co.uk, two floors up from a quiet street and filled with arty prints, fun ornaments and elaborately tiled floors. The area is hip, with hidden bars, endless tapas options and breakfast cafés. Just around the corner from Marta’s is Duo Tapas (00 34 955 23 85 72), which serves inexpensive and delicious small plates. Pick an outside table and try the solomillo de buey (beef fillet), boiled octopus and shrimp tortillitas, from 2.50 (£2.20)
avoid the overpriced, bland soups served at many restaurants and search out some rewarding alternatives. Four-restaurant mini chain Saffran (saffran.is) does a wonderful and inexpensive range of healthy and delicious food. Lobster pizza is the must-have item on the menu, at a very reasonable £14. For a more upscale dining experience, go to Fiskmarkadurinn ( fiskmarkadurinn.is), which serves good cocktails, great sushi and sashimi, and a superb chef’s tasting menu (main courses from £32). After a day of sightseeing, grab bento boxes from Tokyo Sushi (tokyo.is) and head back to the apartment. This
per dish. For a simple plate of jamón and an ice-cold beer, head to Taberna Águilas (00 34 637 70 68 68), a short walk from the old quarter’s wooden Metropol Parasol and beautiful cathedral. Vega 10 (00 34 955 23 77 48) in Triana, just across the river, is another must-visit tapas bar, where the salmon & mango tartare is out of this world.
How to do it From £49 per night (airbnb. co.uk/rooms/1313371). Lydia Swinscoe
top-notch takeaway is £6 for a small box – great value if you’re on a budget.
How to do it Rent Sigrún’s apartment (airbnb.co.uk/rooms/ 1001250) from £79 per night (three-night minimum stay). Lydia Swinscoe
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To fully immerse yourself in the London local food scene, book the Tyers Gate apartment, in a converted warehouse near London Bridge, and you’ll be within a short walk of Borough Market. When hunger strikes, nip out for a cheese toastie, £6, from Kappacasein (kappacasein.com); treat yourself to homemade pasta, about £7, from Padella (padella.co); or buy some fresh produce to cook for yourself in the apartment’s small, sleek kitchen. The following day, take a short stroll (or perhaps a longer walk via Tower Bridge, to work up an appetite) to the
area around Maltby Street, Rope Walk and Spa Terminus. You can stock up on custard doughnuts from St John Bakery (stjohngroup.uk.com), beer from the Kernel Brewery (thekernelbrewery.com) and cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy (nealsyarddairy.co.uk). Nearby is the tiny José tapas restaurant ( josepizarro.com) on Bermondsey Street. Bag a seat at a quiet time and snack on hake with aïoli, or fig with sheep’s cheese & honey dressing (plates about £7). Or set your sights higher, quite literally, and head to London’s tallest skyscraper, The Shard. Book a table at Aqua Shard on the 31st floor (mains from £20-40), or try your luck with the first-comefirst-served policy at the bar (aquashard.co.uk). How to do it Onefinestay apartments come with hotel-quality linens, towels and toiletries. You are personally welcomed by staff, who are then available by phone 24/7, and you’ll be provided with an iPhone with free data and local area maps loaded for your stay. The Tyers Gate unit, below (onefinestay.com/ homes/london/ tyers-gate) costs from £190 per night and sleeps two to four. Lulu Grimes
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Best for FABULOUS FOOD AND FASHION Milan This city’s food scene caters to international designers, bankers and fashionistas who won’t suffer a bad meal. Plentiful rental apartments offer a cheaper alternative to the fashion-branded hotels that have colonised the city. On the edge of Milan’s mini-Chinatown, Celia’s chic one-bedroom apartment, on airbnb.co.uk, is on the first floor of a classic Milanese casa di ringhiera (a characterful building with an internal courtyard and balconies), within walking distance of the central sights. Breakfast is one meal Italians don’t overindulge in, so have yours before venturing out. On the same street, La Ravioleria Sarpi is an encouraging sign of new-era Chinese cuisine in Milan, partnered with a local butcher and offering refined dim sum and street-food bites from under 5 (£4.30). Alternatively, walk 15 minutes to Ratana (ratana. it), a modern Milanese bistro in an old art nouveau railway storehouse. Equally good for lunch or dinner, the menu makes little inspired changes to revive Lombardy classics like Milanese risotto with osso buco. Dinner for two
starts at about 92 (£80). For pre- or post-prandial drinks, bustling Cantine Isola (Via Paolo Sarpi 30) can’t be beaten. This bar-enoteca (wine shop) is lined, floor to ceiling, with bottles, so you can sip before shopping. The counter heaves with complimentary small plates – there are towers of bruschetta, hunks of parmesan and rainbows of salumi. For proper shopping, Eataly Milano Smeraldo (eataly.it), in the grand old Teatro Smeraldo, has theatrically arranged pan-Italian produce. The recipe packs are hard to resist: pasta meals, from simple tomato to wild boar, with dessert and paired wines in a chic canvas bag from 29.50 (£25.60).
How to do it Celia’s apartment (airbnb. co.uk/rooms/326190), from £46 per night, sleeps two. Sarah Barrell
Photographs GETTY, YADID LEVY ROBERTHARDING REX SHUTTERSTOCK
Best for MARKETS AND CITY WALKS London
eat like a local Best for ADVENTUROUS EATERS Berlin Bed down in Kreuzberg, a neighbourhood once almost surrounded by the Berlin Wall, to get a real taste of how this city has regenerated. Previously a hub for Turkish immigrants, artists and club denizens, it’s now a superb place to hang out and pig out. Check into a Homestay apartment hosted by local chef Birgit, and enjoy a simple breakfast of German muesli, croissants, fresh bread and preserves on the terrace, which has panoramic city views. If you are lucky, Birgit will prepare you a dinner of homemade spätzle (traditional German dumplings) at the day’s end. For a local lunch of lamb cutlets at 16.50 (£14.30), go to Rote Harfe (rote-harfe.de), near Heinrichplatz, or shop at the Turkish market in Maybachufer for great fruit and snacks – jet-black olives, sesame-studded simit rolls and local honey (Tuesdays and Fridays). Later on, head to Kreuzberg’s arterial Oranienburger Strasse. The fun flagship of Berlin’s Amrit (amrit.de) mini-franchise serves pan-Indian food and colourful cocktails, with dishes about 8 (£7). A short walk south, in the
Drinks in Kreuzberg overlooking the Oberbaum Bridge
nearby Berlin Mitte district, try Dottir (dottirberlin.com), which opened last year. Chef Victoria Eliasdóttir, who had a stint at Alice Waters’ landmark Californian restaurant, Chez Panisse, runs the kitchen, serving dishes that draw on her Danish-Icelandic roots. The four-course menu – about 58 (£50) – changes daily but retains a strong focus on North Sea fish. Don’t miss the fresh baked bread with liquid browned butter. Brunch is a Berlin weekend institution and you will be spoilt for choice in Kreuzberg. Adjacent to Görlitzer Park, Nest (cafenest.de), is a leader: the Med-German dishes include everything from cheese plates to cured fish from about 5 (£4.30).
How to do it Book Birgit’s place (homestay. com/germany/berlin/34381) from £22 per night (sleeps two). Sarah Barrell
FOOD AND FARMING AWARDS
Cider with Andy When life handed Andy Hallett apples, he turned them into traditional craft cider and created an award-winning business interview CLARE HARGREAVES recipe ANDY HALLETT
aking alcoholic drinks had always been a hobby for engineer Andy Hallett. But when he bought a 25-acre farm in Caerphilly in South Wales 17 years ago, he decided to turn his passion for cider-making into a business. ‘Shortly after I moved to the farm, a friend turned up with some cider apples and said, “Let’s make cider”. He had a crushing machine, so we made a press, found some plastic buckets and gave it a go. The cider turned out all right. The next year, I decided to do it again, and things went on from there.’ At first, Andy bought apples from a farmer in Usk. But in 2009 he planted 1,200 trees, including 200 of the Welsh cider apple variety Frederick. He now mostly uses his own apples to make up to 70,000 litres of cider a year. His main product is a sparkling bottled cider, which combines traditionally fermented juice from Dabinett apples with juice from new-season fruit. He uses keeving – an ancient French method – to produce a naturally sweet cider that is used to balance the final drink. The cider is matured for a minimum of three months, then bottled. Andy also produces draught and keg cider, as well as perry (made from pears). ‘As with wine, the flavours and textures are different each year,’ he says. ‘It depends on the weather, which affects the sugar level of the apples. The skill is in blending them to ensure we get the perfect combination for that particular year.’ His technique certainly impressed the judges at this year’s BBC Food and Farming Awards, where he won the Best Drinks Producer category. ‘Andy’s approach to cidermaking is unlike any I have encountered before,’ said Jack Adair Bevan, from The Ethicurean restaurant in Bristol. ‘It is more akin to winemaking, resulting in a drink that is complex without losing sight of its homegrown apples.’ Wine writer Fiona Beckett, his fellow judge, added: ‘Andy produces modern, clean ciders that have the most amazing flavours. We should be proud of cider in the same way as we are of beer and – to a lesser extent nowadays – of wine. Cider is one of Britain’s great drinks.’ halletsrealcider.co.uk
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Hallets Real Cider won the Best Drinks Producer category in the BBC Food and Farming Awards. Discover the other winners and inalists via BBC Radio 4 iPlayer and at bbc.co.uk.
eat like a local
Faggots with spring onion mash & cider jus SERVES 4 PREP 50 mins COOK 45 mins MORE EFFORT
Portrait DAVID COTSWORTH | Recipe photograph CLARE WINFIELD | Food styling ELLIE JARVIS | Styling WEI TANG
For the faggots 300g pig’s liver 300g pork belly, skin removed 100g fresh breadcrumbs or oats small handful fresh sage, thyme or marjoram, inely chopped 1 /2 tsp ground cumin 8 slices black pudding, about 1cm thick 8 slices thin-cut smoked streaky bacon, stretched with the back of a knife to make them as long as possible oil, for greasing For the mash 1kg Maris Piper potatoes, cut into chunks 8 spring onions, trimmed and thinly sliced 80g salted butter 50 60ml milk For the cider jus 200ml chicken or vegetable stock 300ml sweet cider 1 tbsp light soft brown sugar
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Blitz the liver and pork belly a few times in a food processer or chop very finely with a knife to make a coarse mince. Transfer to a bowl, add the breadcrumbs, herbs, cumin and seasoning, then mix together with your hands. Divide into eight balls and slightly flatten each one so it will sit nicely on the black pudding. 2 Put a flattened ball on each slice of black pudding, then wrap a piece of bacon around the circumference (push a cocktail stick into each to prevent it unwrapping). Using a palette knife, lift each faggot onto a lightly oiled, flameproof, shallow roasting tin and cover loosely with foil. Bake for 15 mins, then remove the foil and cook for a further 15 mins. 3 Meanwhile, boil the potatoes for 20 mins until a knife can be pushed in easily, then drain and mash. Fry the spring onions in the butter over a medium heat until slightly softened, then mix into the mash along with the milk and season. 4 Transfer the faggots to warm plates and remove the cocktail sticks. Put the tin over a medium heat and pour in the stock, reduce by about half, then add in the cider and sugar, and reduce by half again. Strain the jus through a sieve into a jug, then pour over the faggots and mash. GOOD TO KNOW folate • vit c • iron PER SERVING 1,060 kcals • fat 58g • saturates 25g • carbs 77g • sugars 11g • ibre 5g • protein 50g • salt 3.6g
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Love potatoes Take a fresh look at this versatile veg. Fat-free and healthy, it’s perfect in a wide range of recipes
he potato is probably as perfect an ingredient as you could ever hope for – it has so many great things going for it – so it deserves a whole lot of love. For a start, it tastes delicious whichever way it’s cooked. It also packs quite the punch when it comes to nutrition. It’s naturally fat-free (including saturated), gluten-free and salt-free, plus it’s a good source of fibre and potassium. It’s wonderfully versatile too. There are so many ways to prep and cook a potato, and even more dishes that use them. You’ll find a whole world of exciting new quick, easy and healthy potato recipes to try over at lovepotatoes.co.uk (or potato.ie if you’re in Ireland), many of which take less than 25 minutes to make and come in at 300-500 calories. Impressive! So get started with the tasty recipe below and embrace the joys of the potato for yourself. They’re ideal for when you’re after more wholesome meals as the days cool and the nights draw in.
Indian-inspired potato and chickpea masala SERVES 4
PREP 15 MINS
COOK 30 MINS
2 tbsp sunflower oil 2 onions, sliced 2 garlic cloves 1 tbsp fresh ginger, grated 1 tbsp garam masala 3 tbsp masala curry paste 900g potatoes such as Desiree or Rooster, peeled and cubed 400g can chickpeas, drained 400g can chopped tomatoes 400ml can reduced-fat coconut milk 200g baby spinach 1 tbsp chopped coriander, plus a few extra leaves to serve natural yogurt, to serve
1 Heat the sunflower oil in a large pan, then gently cook the onion for 5 mins. 2 Add the garlic, ginger, garam masala and curry paste, and continue to cook for 3 mins over a medium heat. 3 Add the potatoes and chickpeas, stirring to coat in the spices, then pour in the tomatoes and coconut milk and simmer. 4 Season and continue to cook until the potatoes are soft. If the sauce looks a bit dry, just add a little water. 5 Stir in the spinach and chopped coriander, then sprinkle over the extra coriander and serve with yogurt on the side.
For more quick, easy and healthy potato recipes, visit lovepotatoes.co.uk or potato.ie
Get more from your cooking with expert tips, techniques and reviews from Barney Desmazery – this month we’re focusing on meat
Barney, our Food editorat-large, has worked as a chef internationally and is a pro at adapting restaurant recipes to make at home. @barney_desmazery BUTCHER’S BLUFF
Chicken photograph JAN PETER WESTERMANN STOCKFOOD
Truss Rosie Birkett calls for her pheasant to be trussed in her recipe on p114. Trussing means tying poultry and game to keep the legs and wings tucked in, so that they don’t splay while in the oven, which ensures the bird cooks more evenly. Use butcher’s string, as it won’t burn. Trussing also makes the bird easier to sear in a pan and looks neat when cooked. In addition, trussing holds bacon over the breast of a bird to lavour and baste it as it roasts. ASK THE EXPERT
What’s the best shopbought puff pastry?
Edd Kimber, winner of the irst Great British Bake Off, says: Puff pastry is traditionally made with butter, which gives lavour and a better rise, so I always use an all-butter puff pastry. You also have the option of a block or sheets, and fresh or frozen. All work, but if using blocks, avoid rolling the pin over the
dough edges as this can pinch them closed and prevent the pastry from rising evenly. If you bake puff pastry as is, it will puff up to its full potential – great for sausage rolls, pithiviers or topping pies. If you prick the pastry with a fork (known as ‘docking’), it will still rise, but not as dramatically. Do this for simple tarts – leave the border undocked to create a nice high edge. Visit Edd’s website at theboywho bakes.co.uk, and ind recipes using puff pastry from Diana Henry on p57.
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GUIDE TO STEAK DONENESS
How do you like your steak? Test the doneness with a meat thermometer or use the ‘ inger test’. Compare the irmness of your steak to the irmness of the leshy area beneath your thumb as you touch each inger. All timings are for a 1.5cm-thick steak.
PICK THE PERFECT…
Tart tin Choose the correct tin and you’ll never bake soggy tarts again. Don’t go for anything ceramic – it doesn’t conduct heat well. Chefs like to use straightsided metal rings, but at home you want a tin that’s luted, sturdy, buckle-proof and deep enough to get the perfect ratio of illing to pastry – about 4cm. A happy average for width is 23cm.
This is the non-stick tin I swear by (Master Class lan tin, £8.64, amazon.co.uk), and the one I threw away all my old tins for. Use it to make Tom Kerridge’s almond & apple tart on p53.
TAKE A COOKERY COURSE
Beef butchery class The Quality Chop House, Farringdon, London (thequalitychophouse.com/shop) ‘I’d like people to eat less meat, but of a higher quality.’ Not words you’d expect from a butcher, but Steve West (below) is on a mission to teach people respect for the animals that end up on our dinner plates. It’s why he runs fortnightly beef, pork and lamb butchery classes at this restaurant-cumshop. Steve, a butcher for 40 years, demonstrates how to break down a carcass. He wants to teach people how to match the best cuts to the most appropriate cooking method. We arrive to be greeted by half a side of four-week aged Hereford beef. Over the next two hours, Steve guides us through, as we take turns to bone and slice. Many of the cuts revealed themselves like treasure – the hidden illet, the locked-in sirloin and rib-eye.
Other muscles were so secret that none of us had heard of them (see box below). Cost £165, which includes a three-course dinner and a selection of your own butchered cuts to take away. Verdict A fun and informative hands-on introduction to butchery, teaching everything from knife skills to the full range of beef cuts. Keith Kendrick
Discover a hidden cut During our course, Steve West showed us a cut we’d not heard of before. Teres Major is a small, illet-shaped muscle hidden beneath the animal’s armpit, sometimes called the Shoulder Tender. When cooked quickly and served rare, it has the lavour of rump and the tenderness of illet. Follow Steve at @stevewestbutcher. Teres Major
Find out what else is new in butchery – see our feature on page 19.
154 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Steak illustrations VICKI TURNER Cow illustration RACHEL BAYLY Chicken wing illustrations GEORGE BLETSIS Duck ham photograph DAVID COTSWORTH
HOW TO EAT
Rose veal for beef
If you make our honey-glazed wings on p124, you can just gnaw your way round the bones and cover your chops in sauce. However, there is a better, cleaner way of dealing with the tricky double-boned bit.
British rose veal is more ethical than milk-fed European veal – being raised humanely outdoors gives it a bee ier lavour than the pallid European version. This makes it a great alternative to beef, as the butchery is similar. Rose veal also supports the dairy industry, as farmers bene it from selling the male calves for meat rather than sending them to slaughter. Pan-fry veal steaks or cook them on a barbecue. Braising cuts can be stewed, and mince makes a delicious ragu or burger.
1 If your wings are V-shaped, pull them apart at the hinge.
2 Eat the shorter, stumpy piece like a mini drumstick. YOUR WEEKEND CHALLENGE
3 With the other bit, twist off the cartilage and pull out the small bone.
4 Wiggle free the larger bone and you’ll be left with a boneless piece of chicken wing you can simply pop into your mouth. Chicken wings done!
If you’ve ever wanted to try curing your own meat, it doesn’t get any easier than salting a duck breast. What you end up with, when thinly sliced, is the colour of bresaola, the texture of prosciutto and the flavour of salami. Once you’ve mastered salt-curing, you can experiment with the flavours. If you like duck and orange, add a grating of orange zest to the salt mixture or include some star anise for an oriental note.
2 cloves 1 garlic clove 1 dried bay leaf, roughly crushed 200g laky sea salt 200g golden caster sugar 1 large meaty duck breast (about 250g)
SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins staggered over 3 days NO COOK
1 Using a pestle and mortar, roughly crush the thyme, peppercorns, cloves, garlic and bay. Tip into a bowl with the salt and sugar, and mix everything together thoroughly. Lightly score the skin on the breast in a criss-cross pattern. 2 Scatter about a third of the salt mixture into a container that will hold the duck breast snugly. Lay the duck, flesh-side down, on the salt and cover with the remaining mixture. Cover tightly with cling film or a lid and leave in the fridge for 3 days. 3 Remove the duck from the mixture, rinse under cold water, then dry well with kitchen paper. The ham is now ready to thinly slice and serve on its own or in a salad. Wrapped in cling film, it will keep in the fridge for up to 1 month.
small handful fresh thyme 1 tsp black peppercorns
GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 135 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 3g • carbs 2g • sugars 1g • ibre none • protein 11g • salt 1.6g
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Roasting tins Barney Desmazery and features editor Natalie Hardwick rate essential equipment each month. Read more of their reviews online
WHAT WE LOOKED FOR Non-stick quality Our most important criterion. Handle Handles or a lip can make it easier to lift the tin in and out of the oven, but handles that are too high just use up valuable oven space. Flameproof Ideally the tin could be used over a gas lame to make a gravy or sauce from the meat juices. Maximum temperature A tin needs to be able to withstand high heats over and over again, otherwise it’ll eventually buckle.
HOW WE TESTED We made an all-in-one roast of chicken thighs, potatoes, garlic (it has a high sugar content, which makes the unpeeled cloves prone to sticking), lemon wedges and herbs, and aimed for an even inish and crispy skin.
BEST BLOW OUT Scanpan classic 5-litre roasting pan (£112, inthehaus.co.uk) Barney’s all-time favourite is expensive but stands the test of time, as he can attest. It has excellent heat retention and the handles are a comfortable size. Fantastic non-stick and can withstand a maximum temperature of 260C.
BEST BUDGET Pyrex metal non-stick rectangular roaster (£13.99, pyrexuk.com) For a tin this size, this is remarkably cheap. Absolutely nothing stuck to the bottom and we found the lipped edges really useful. The metal isn’t as robust as a £100+ tin, but for those on a budget we can’t fault it. Can withstand up to 230C.
BEST MULTI FUNCTIONAL Stellar 6000 square roaster (£94.49, legendcookshop.co.uk) The non-stick is excellent but the handles and lid are high, so you’ll need plenty of oven space. The surfaces are hardanodised, which – according to Stellar – makes them twice as hard as steel. Can withstand up to 240C.
BEST MID RANGE GreenPan hard anodised roaster (£50, greenpan.co.uk) Retains heat really well and is very roomy. Ideal for families, Christmas or cooks who like to entertain a crowd. The non-stick is excellent but it isn’t dishwasher-friendly, so be prepared to hand-wash. Can withstand up to 260C.
BEST FOR BAKING Lakeland square roasting tin (£8.99, Lakeland) This diminutive roaster could double as a brownie tin, and is good for anyone with a small oven. The non-stick is excellent but the tray can’t be used over a lame, so this isn’t one to buy if you like making gravy from pan juices. Can withstand up to 240C.
FEATURES THAT DIDN’T IMPRESS US O Sub-par handles We discounted handles that were too small, too high or seemed pointless. O Non-stick surfaces that stuck! O Flimsy metal We subjected tins to the knock-and-drop test to mimic long-term kitchen wear and tear. Anything that dented didn’t cut the mustard. Next month Don’t miss our Christmas taste awards – 50 best supermarket buys
Classic pork sausages We tested the supermarkets’ best traditional pork bangers to ind our top three BEST ALL Deluxe pork sausages, ROUNDER £1.75 for 6, Lidl
Meaty with a good texture that hasn’t been over-minced. These are well seasoned and would be great with mash or chips. Following the pack instructions produced well-cooked, crispyskinned sausages.
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BEST IN A BUN Irresistible outdoor bred pork sausages, £2.79 for 6, Co-op We were impressed with the succulence of these. The lavour was not dissimilar to a bratwurst or good-quality hot dog, making them most suitable for a sandwich, whatever your choice of bread.
HIGHLY COMMENDED Luxury outdoor bred pork premium sausages, £2 for 6, Iceland) A great all-rounder with a thick skin that gives them a nice bite. There is a good depth of herby lavour that would go well with the other elements in a cooked breakfast.
Pumpkin photograph GETTY
Carve pumpkins with a scoop saw (Chef’N Scoop Saw, £10, Debenhams) It takes a lot for a non-electrical kitchen carving. The saw glides through the gadget to win me over. But every now pumpkin skin while the plastic scoop and then, along comes a little bolt makes easy work of the lesh and of ingenuity that makes a task easier. seeds inside. Enter the scoop saw. Verdict At this price, it’s worth Billed as a tool for preparing buying just for Halloween carving, melons and squash (which it does with since its compact design won’t take ease), this clever device comes into its up much drawer space. The saw is own with the annual task of pumpkin a little limsy and it’s best for fairly
simple pumpkin designs, but it’s still good value. The scoop saw is also safer for supervised kids to use.
25% *Selected stores only
Experience 21 bold flavours, 100% organic and handmade in England.
Available at: Abel & Cole, As Nature Intended, Better Food, Gloucester Gateway Services, Planet Organic, Selfridges, Westmorland Services, Whole Foods Market, speciality retailers and selected branches of Waitrose & W.H.Smith
www.seedandbean.co.uk *Source goodshoppingguide.com
STEP BY STEP
Con it pork belly Ben Tish shows how to make his version of a classic slow-roast pork belly photographs DAVID COTSWORTH
Con it pork belly with cannellini beans & rosemary ‘This is one of the most popular dishes across our three restaurants. The secret to the dish is time. You have to ensure all the processes are adhered to and not rushed – and, of course, you should buy top-quality pork. We use a Gloucester Old Spot variety with a high fat marbling that makes it well suited to this process of cooking. ‘We use dried cannellini beans, which we soak overnight in cold water and then cook with butter, water and rosemary. You could use a quality canned variety, but if you’re doing the pork, you might as well do the beans.’ SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus at least 7 hrs chilling and overnight soaking (optional) COOK 5 hrs A CHALLENGE
1kg pork belly, skin on and bones intact 200g coarse sea salt 6 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked and inely chopped 4 garlic cloves, chopped 2 litres duck fat 500ml vegetable oil 300g dried cannellini beans 150g unsalted butter green salad, to serve
Ben is chef-director of the Salt Yard Group of restaurants, and specialises in Spanish and Italian cuisine. His second book, Grill Smoke BBQ (£25, Quadrille), is out now. @ben.tish. Ben will be appearing at the BBC Good Food Show at London Olympia on Sunday 13 November, visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com to book tickets. Readers get a discount – ind out more on p92.
158 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
Score the skin of the pork with a knife, then put in a shallow dish and rub all over with the sea salt, half the rosemary and all the garlic. Cover the dish with cling film and leave in the fridge for at least 7 hrs, preferably overnight. While the pork is being salted, soak the beans in plenty of cold water overnight. Heat oven to 150C/130C fan/gas 2. Wash the pork well and pat dry. Heat the duck fat and half the vegetable oil in a deep, flameproof casserole dish or roasting tin until the fat has melted, then carefully lower in
the pork. Cover with foil and put in the oven. Cook for about 4 hrs or until the pork is very tender. Leave the pork to cool slightly, then remove from the fat and cool completely. Alternatively, the pork can be kept in the fat in the fridge, covered, for up to 3 months. The fat itself can be reused. Remove the bones and any sinew or membrane from the pork. Press the pork between two roasting trays with heavy weights on top (such as cans). This process will shape and compact the meat so that it’s easier to portion. Leave the meat to press in the fridge for at least 2 hrs. You can leave the pork to press overnight (the beans will be fine left soaking in water for up to 48 hrs, but change the water after 24 hrs). Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Drain the beans and tip into a large pan. Cover with about 5cm of fresh water. Bring to the boil, then cook over a medium heat for 40 mins until tender. Add the butter and the remaining rosemary to the beans, and cook for 5 mins until the beans and buttery water have emulsified. Season well and keep warm. Take the pork out of the fridge and cut into four equal pieces. Put a large, ovenproof non-stick sauté pan in the oven with the remaining oil and heat until almost smoking. Place the pork, skin-side down, in the hot vegetable oil (be careful as the oil will spit). Return the pork to the oven for 12 mins until heated through and the skin is crisp and golden. Divide the beans between four serving plates and top each with a piece of crispy pork. Serve with a crisp green salad.
GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • iron • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 1,039 kcals • fat 77g • saturates 32g • carbs 37g • sugars 1g • ibre 12g • protein 43g • salt 1.5g
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Your feedback STAR LETTER We go to a market garden for our fruit and veg, and the quality is much better than in the supermarkets, so Joanna Blythman’s article (September) chimed with me. The strawberries, in particular, taste amazing, plus it makes us eat seasonally. We also use a local butcher, whose meat comes from their own farms – the homemade sausages and steak are very good. It really is time we went back to using local shops and suppliers. Elizabeth Oliver, Cumbria Find out what to ask your butcher on p19
Great eats Every month, we ask a Good Food fan to recommend a favourite restaurant.
Elizabeth wins 12 bottles of Errazuriz Max Reserva Merlot 2013 (£14.40, vivino.com). Made from old vines, this deliciously smooth wine is packed with red and black fruit, with subtle notes of spice, smooth tannins and an elegant inish.
I really enjoyed reading Mel Giedroyc’s ‘My life on a plate’ article (Sept). Her recipe, Mumsy’s vegetable soup, looked so beautiful that my six-yearold daughter and I made it together. I have many recipes that my mum has given me. Now Mel’s story has inspired me to ensure I pass these on to my daughter. Hopefully she’ll go on to cook these for her children in years to come. Sarah James-Poole, Cheshire
You’ve been posting our recipes… #bbcgoodfood
@breakfastatcarolines Caroline’s version of our summer vegetable & pesto rose tart (August) is sheer perfection. @fatfoodgets it Sam has baked up a batch of our breakfast muffins (August) – great for an on-the-go breakfast.
We love to hear from you. Get in touch at the addresses below
Alice Tarbert, from East Sussex, recommends The Curlew Restaurant in Bodiam (thecurlewrestaurant.co.uk). ‘Housed in what was previously a coaching inn, this lovely restaurant offers fantastic food, much of which takes advantage of outstanding local produce, such as Kentish cherries and Rye Bay shell ish. It has a lovely dining space with a view into the kitchen. My favourite dishes are the intensely cheesy double-baked cheese soufflé and a perfectly cooked duck breast served with soy-glazed pineapple.’
Know somewhere good in your area? Tell us what makes it stand out – we’ll publish a recommendation in every issue. Let us know on Facebook and Twitter using the hashtag #gfeatsout
I made your slow cooker muscovado cheesecake with hazelnuts & blackberries (Sept) with blackberries picked by my daughters. I was pretty impressed by how it turned out. Jo Morran, Buckinghamshire
I recently combined two Cake Club cakes for a baking competition at work – the cookies & cream party cake and the gravity-defying sweetie cake (both July 2015). I won Star Baker and was very proud. Rebecca Woollgar, Essex
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Editor Gillian Carter Deputy editor Elaine Stocks Art director Jonathan Whitelocke Art editor Rachel Bayly Designer Suzette Scoble Picture editor Gabby Harrington Chief sub-editor Art Young Deputy chief sub-editor Fiona Forman Editorial assistant Anna Lawson PA to Gillian Carter and Al ie Lewis Emma Bales Subscriptions director Helen Ward Subscriptions marketing manager Lynn Swarbrick Head of production Koli Pickersgill Production manager Kate Gristwood Senior management accountant Len Bright Management accountant Noma-Afrika Pele Finance director Stephen Lavin Group marketing manager Tom Townsend-Smith Reader offer manager Liza Evans firstname.lastname@example.org Head of newstrade marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade marketing manager Charlotte Watts
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CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Rosie Birkett Joanna Blythman Kathryn Custance (TV) Emma Freud Diana Henry Tom Kerridge Victoria Moore (wine) Marina O’Loughlin (travel) John Torode Kerry Torrens Thanks this month to Haley Austin, Sarah Birks, Hannah Bond, Tania Cagnoni, Esther Clark, Imogen Coulson, Gemma Doyle, Katy Gilhooly, Amy Quick, Dominic Martin, Odhran O’Donoghue, Alice Tarbert, Joanna Zenghelis
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Get the best from our recipes Our recipes are triple-tested: we cook them all three times to ensure they work for you • Always read the recipe thoroughly before starting, and use standard measuring spoons for accuracy. • Where possible, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainably sourced ish. • We help you to avoid waste by using full packs, or suggesting how to use leftovers. Helping you to eat well Our nutritional therapist analyses our recipes on a per-serving basis, not including optional serving suggestions.
You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the amount an adult should consume daily: Energy 2,000 cals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note, RIs for saturates, sugar and salt are maximum daily amounts). How we label our recipes Our vegetarian (V) or vegan recipes are clearly labelled, but check pack ingredients to ensure they’re suitable. If we say you can freeze a
168 bbcgoodfood.com OCTOBER 2016
recipe (G), freeze for up to three months unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. A low-fat recipe has 12g or less per serving. A recipe is ‘good for you’ if it is low in saturated fat, with 5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and low in sugar, with 15g or less. A low-calorie recipe has 500 calories or less per main course, 150 calories or less for a dessert. We include the number of portions of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and the vitamins
or nutrients that it contains. • Please note that recipes created for Advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested in the Good Food Test Kitchen. • Our gluten-free recipes are free from gluten, but this may exclude serving suggestions. For more info, visit coeliac.org.uk. • We regret that we are unable to answer individual medical/ nutritional queries.
Suitable for freezing
Meat & game
Breakfasts Almond butter, banana, goji berries & sun lower seeds tartines 88 Boiled egg, avocado & quick pickled radish tartines 88 Ricotta, blackberry & pine nuts tartines 88 Smoked salmon, miso & sesame tartines 88
Salads, soups, starters, sides & drinks Bacon butter popcorn 126 Beetroot tartare 131 Blood beetroot cocktails 107 Brown sugar & cinnamon glazed popcorn 126 Burnt leeks on toast with romesco 104 Caramel marshmallow popcorn 126 Celeriac remoulade 54 Creamed leeks with bacon & thyme 54 Crispy Jerusalem artichokes with roasted garlic & rosemary 114 Herby yogurt dressing 107 Honey-glazed chicken wings 124 Lardo & apple bruschetta 10 Mexican chicken tortilla soup 44 Nachodums 125 Pumpkin & bacon soup 48 Puy lentils, squash & kale 115 Raspberry lemonade slushies 124 Root vegetable rice 107 Rustic vegetable soup 91 Sloe gin cocktail 15 Spiced pear chutney 54
Butter bean, chorizo & spinach baked eggs 67 Catherine wheel toad-in-the-hole with honey & mustard onions 40 Con it pork belly with cannellini beans & rosemary 158 Creamy pork & pear cassoulet 69 Faggots with spring onion mash & cider jus 151 Melting meatball macaroni 38 Pork & apple stew with parsley & thyme dumplings 80 Spiced lamb chops with coconut rice & mango salsa 72 Spicy lamb keema pau 38 Sticky baked meatloaf with avocado & black bean salsa 79 Stuffed onions 107 Stuffed vine leaves 101 Venison salad with apple, celeriac & hazelnuts 111
••• •• ••
easiest-ever midweek meals
Vegetarian mains Chive gnocchi with smoked cream sauce & leeks 50 Harissa-glazed aubergine with coconut & peanuts 12 John’s vegan shepherd’s pie 84 Pea & feta pearl barley stew 66 Pumpkin, fennel & Taleggio galette 58 Roasted vegetable quinoa salad with griddled halloumi 65 Speedy goat’s cheese & lentil ilo pie 83 Spiced mushroom & lentil hotpot 66 Whole baked celeriac with walnuts & blue cheese 49
•••• •• •
Baking & desserts Almond & apple tart 53 Banana, pecan & bourbon self-saucing pud 40 Berry almond Bakewell 79 Chocolate & ginger honeycomb cheesecakes 73 Chocolate-orange steamed pudding with chocolate sauce 76 Chocolate, peanut butter & pretzel cookie bars 40 Death-by-chocolate tart 108 Lavender poached pear with Poire Williams pudding 51 Pear & hazelnut dartois 61 Pumpkin & caramel corner-cutting cake 99 S'mores dip 126 Spider’s web cake 134 Toffee apple bread & butter pudding 170 Vanilla panna cotta with violet ganache 132
Fish & seafood Cod with an orange & dill crumb and hasselback potato 69 Curried haddock kedgeree 96 Domino potato, cod, prawn & chorizo pie 43 Fried hake with peppers 132 Penne with a punchy tuna sauce 64 Warm tuna & lentil Niçoise salad 83
Poultry Cardamom chicken with lime leaves 76 Chicken, leek & cider pie 61 Crispy prosciutto chicken 83 Duck ham 155 Pheasant & mushroom pastry puff slice 117 Pheasant meatballs with orzo 118 Pot-roast pheasant with Fino & porcini 114 Roast grouse with red wine gravy 96 Sticky pistachio chicken with jewelled bulghar salad 71
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this month’s recipes
This month’s recipes
TWICE AS NICE
Toffee apple bread & butter pudding Bonfire treat meets classic comfort food in this doubly delicious dessert recipe CASSIE BEST photograph STUART OVENDEN
SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins EASY
Food styling SARAH COOK Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN
3 red dessert apples juice 1/2 lemon 4 tbsp golden caster sugar 397g can caramel (we used Carnation) 6 brioche inger rolls, sliced into rounds 3 eggs 400ml full-fat milk 200ml double cream 1 tsp vanilla extract ice cream, to serve (optional)
1 Core the apples, then slice into rings about as thick as a 50p piece. Toss through the lemon juice and 2 tbsp sugar. Spread about 2/3 of the caramel over the base of a large baking dish (ours was 20 x 30cm). 2 Layer the brioche and apple rings in the dish in overlapping lines. Dot spoonfuls of the leftover caramel here and there, leaving bits of apple poking out. In a jug, whisk the eggs, milk, cream, vanilla extract and 1 tbsp sugar. Pour the mixture over the brioche and apples, making sure it’s all well covered, then wrap in cling film. Set aside for at least 30 mins, or overnight, in the fridge. 3 Heat oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 3. Uncover the pudding and scatter with the remaining 1 tbsp sugar. Bake for 45-50 mins until the top is golden and the custard has set. The caramel should be bubbling around the edges and the pudding puffed up. Serve with vanilla ice cream, if you like. PER SERVING 831 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 21g • carbs 105g • sugars 70g • ibre 2g • protein 18g • salt 1.3g
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Cooler, crisp days and an abundance of new-season produce. Autumn is a great month to spend time in your kitchen, then cosy up with home-cooked food. This special collection is packed with inspiring recipes to help you do just that â€“ from soups and salads to one-pots and fruity puddings, and all triple-tested in our Test Kitchen.
Gillian Carter, Editorial director
10 16 22
FAMILY ONE POTS
Exciting ways to cook chard, celeriac and sprouts
Save on the washing up ROAST DINNERS
Make Sunday special SLOW COOKED SUPPERS
Hearty dishes for family meals or entertaining Aim for your 5-a-day with our meat-free mains
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Toffee apple loaf cake
Warming and packed with vegetables Indulgent desserts to cheer up chilly days
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Editorial director Gillian Carter Supplement editor Keith Kendrick Supplement art director Gareth Jones Group marketing manager Tom Townsend-Smith Production manager Kate Gristwood Production coordinator Leanda Holloway Senior repro technician Darren McCubbin Publishing director Simon Carrington
Seasonal stars Exciting ways to cook chard, celeriac and sprouts
Quick braised chard & lentils, p6 4 bbcgoodfood.com
Sprouts with pork & peanuts, p6 bbcgoodfood.com 5
Quick braised chard & lentils SERVES 4 as a side or 2 as a main PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V 300g Swiss or rainbow chard, leaves and stalks separated 2 tbsp good-quality olive oil, plus a drizzle 1 garlic clove, sliced 1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped 250g pouch cooked Puy lentils squeeze lemon juice
1 Cut the chard stalks into batons and
roughly shred the leaves. Heat half the olive oil in a large sauté pan. Add the chard stalks, garlic, chilli and a splash of water. Cook over a low heat for 8-10 mins until softened, then add the leaves and cook until completely wilted. 2 Prepare the lentils following pack instructions. Take the chard off the heat and stir through the lentils. Season, dress with more olive oil and the lemon juice, then serve. PER SERVING (4) 153 kcals, fat 7g, saturates 1g, carbs 16g, sugars 1g, ibre 5g, protein 9g, salt 1.1g
Sprouts with pork & peanuts Sprouts are made for stir-frying, each one an equal size, quick to cook, and they go so well with soy sauce, garlic and ginger. If you prefer, you could use chicken, tofu or prawns instead of pork. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins EASY 1 pork tenderloin (400 450g) 1 tbsp corn lour 5 tbsp light soy sauce 2 tbsp Chinese black rice vinegar or balsamic vinegar 2 tbsp golden caster sugar 1 tbsp Chinese rice wine or dry Sherry vegetable oil, for stir-frying 4 tbsp unsalted peanuts 400g Brussels sprouts, trimmed then halved, or quartered if large thumb-sized piece ginger, shredded 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 /2 tsp chilli lakes or a few whole small dried chillies 1 tsp sesame oil and sticky rice, to serve
1 Trim any silvery sinew from the pork,
then slice the meat into thin medallions. Mix the cornflour with 2 tbsp of the soy, add the pork and toss to coat. Set aside for 5 mins. Stir together the rest of the soy, the vinegar, sugar, rice wine and 2 tbsp water. Let the sugar dissolve. 2 Heat 1 tsp oil in a wok or frying pan. Fry the peanuts for 1-2 mins, stirring often, until toasted and golden, then set aside in a dish. Add 1 tbsp oil to the pan, and stir-fry the pork for 3-4 mins until golden but not completely cooked through. Set aside. 3 Wipe out the pan if needed, then add another 1 tbsp oil and stir-fry the sprouts over a high heat for 5 mins, adding 1 tbsp water at the end to provide a shot of steam. They should be bright green and just tender, but not soft. If the pan seems dry, add another 1 tsp oil, then tip in the ginger, garlic and chilli. Sizzle for 1 min, then add the sauce, pork and any resting juices. Simmer for a few mins until the sauce thickens and the pork is cooked through. Scatter with the nuts, drizzle over the sesame oil and serve with rice. PER SERVING 391 kcals, fat 18g, saturates 4g, carbs 21g, sugars 15g, ibre 7g, protein 33g, salt 4.0g
Sprout salad with citrus & pomegranate SERVES 4 6 PREP 10 mins plus chilling COOK 10 mins EASY V
Cheesy chard gratin SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins EASY
FOR THE SALAD 50g blanched hazelnuts 1 heaped tsp cumin seeds 1 small red onion, inely chopped 400g Brussels sprouts, shredded with a processor or by hand handful coriander, torn (optional) 100g pomegranate seeds FOR THE DRESSING zest 1 orange, plus 2 tbsp juice zest and juice 1 lemon 3 tbsp rice wine vinegar (or use cider vinegar with a pinch more sugar) 1 tbsp golden caster sugar 5 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp wholegrain mustard
bunch chard, about 340g 150ml double cream 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 140g Gruyère, coarsely grated butter, for greasing 2 tbsp inely grated Parmesan
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/
PER SERVING (6) 214 kcals, fat 16g, saturates 2g,
gas 6. Strip the chard leaves from the stalks, then cut the stalks into sticks. Bring a pan of water to the boil and cook the stalks for 3-4 mins until starting to soften. Then throw in the leaves for a few moments too so that they just wilt. Drain well. 2 Mix the cream with the mustard, then toss through the chard with most of the Gruyère. Grease a medium gratin dish, spread the chard mix over, then scatter with the remaining Gruyère and the Parmesan. Bake for 30 mins until bubbling and golden. Serve straight from the dish.
carbs 11g, sugars 10g, ibre 5g, protein 4g, salt 0.2g
PER SERVING 391 kcals, fat 36g, saturates 22g,
1 Set a frying pan over a medium heat,
2 Roughly chop the hazelnuts. Pile
add the hazelnuts and toast for about 8 mins until golden here and there. Tip onto a plate or baking tray and set aside to cool. Toast the cumin seeds in the same pan for 30 secs until fragrant, then remove from the heat. Whisk all the dressing ingredients into the pan with the cumin seeds. Season generously, add the onion and set aside.
the shredded sprouts into a large bowl, pour over the dressing and toss very well. Set aside for 10 mins, or up to 1 hr in the fridge. Fold in the coriander (if using), the pomegranate and hazelnuts before serving.
carbs 3g, sugars 1g, ibre 0g, protein 15g, salt 1.4g
seasonal Herb-baked celeriac Here’s a novel way of cooking a celeriac that means you don’t have to peel it – but you’ll need to give it a good scrub to get rid of any bits of soil. It takes two hours in the oven, but if you’ve got something meaty already roasting or slow-cooking, it’s simple to slip in the celeriac to serve alongside. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 2 2 hrs EASY V 1 celeriac 1 tbsp olive oil 4 rosemary sprigs 4 thyme sprigs 3 bay leaves 1 garlic bulb, broken into cloves 50g butter
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4.
If the celeriac has a green sprouting top, cut it off and discard. Scrub off any dirt and trim away any frilly bits of root. Rub the celeriac all over with the oil and place on a large sheet of foil, root-side down. Scatter with the garlic, herbs and seasoning. Wrap the foil tightly and place on a tray and roast on the bottom of the oven for 2 hrs. Check after 2 hrs that the top is very tender – if not give it 30 mins more. 2 To serve, unwrap the celeriac and cut off the top. Loosen and mash the middle with the butter, some seasoning and squeezed-out softened garlic, if you like. Serve the celeriac with a spoon sticking out of it for everyone to help themselves. PER SERVING 160 kcals, fat 14g, saturates 7g, carbs 5g, sugars 3g, ibre 7g, protein 3g, salt 0.8g
Smoked haddock with celeriac & spinach gratin SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr 20 mins EASY 250g leaf spinach 1 celeriac, peeled 25g butter 170ml pot double cream small grating of nutmeg 500 600g undyed smoked haddock illet, cut into 4 portions small pack chives, snipped
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
Tip the spinach into a colander and sit it in the sink. Slowly pour a kettle of boiling water over the spinach to wilt it, then run under colder water, squeeze out as much water as you can and set aside. 2 Quarter the celeriac and cut each piece into thin slices. Butter a gratin dish and tip in the celeriac, spinach and the cream. Season, add the nutmeg and toss everything together. Cover
the dish with foil and bake for 30 mins. Remove the foil, toss the celeriac around, cover again and put back in the oven for 30 mins. 3 Remove the foil again, lay the fish on top and place a small knob of butter on each fillet. Cover with foil again and bake for a final 20 mins until the fish is cooked and the celeriac is tender. Scatter everything with chives and serve. PER SERVING 417 kcals, fat 31g, saturates 18g, carbs 6g, sugars 5g, ibre 8g, protein 29g, salt 3.2g
Family one-pots These easy recipes all use just one pan, tray or dish for great results with minimal washing up
Thai coconut & veg broth
Oven-baked leek & bacon risotto
Greek lamb tray bake
Bean & pasta stew with meatballs bbcgoodfood.com 11
Thai coconut & veg broth
Greek lamb tray bake SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins EASY 50g fresh white breadcrumbs 250g lamb mince 1 egg, beaten 2 onions, halved large handful mint, chopped 2 large potatoes, cut into wedges 2 courgettes, cut into batons 12 cherry tomatoes 2 tbsp olive oil 50g feta, crumbled
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. Pop the breadcrumbs, lamb mince, egg and plenty of seasoning in a bowl. Grate in half an onion and sprinkle in half the chopped mint. Give everything a good mix and shape into 8 patties. Place on a large, shallow roasting tray. 2 Cut the remaining onion halves into wedges. Place them on the tray around the lamb patties with the potatoes, courgettes and
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V If using veggie curry paste
cherry tomatoes. Drizzle with olive oil and season. Bake for around 40 mins, turning everything once, until the lamb is cooked though and the vegetables are tender. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with feta and remaining mint. PER SERVING 388 kcals, fat 19g,
1 tbsp Thai red curry paste 1 tsp vegetable oil 1 litre vegetable stock 400ml can half-fat coconut milk 2 tsp brown sugar 175g medium egg noodles 2 carrots, cut into matchsticks head Chinese leaf, sliced x 300g bag beansprouts 6 cherry tomatoes, halved juice 1 lime 3 spring onions, halved, then inely sliced lengthways handful of coriander, roughly chopped
Want to make a lower fat option? Turkey mince will also work well in this recipe.
saucepan or wok with the oil. Fry for 1 min until fragrant. Tip in the vegetable stock, coconut milk and brown sugar. Simmer for 3 mins. 2 Add the noodles, carrots and
Oven-baked leek & bacon risotto
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins EASY
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
6 8 pack pork sausages 1 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, inely chopped 3 celery sticks, diced 2 carrots, diced 3 garlic cloves, inely chopped 400g can chopped tomatoes 1 litre chicken stock 175g macaroni 410g can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained handful lat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 tbsp olive oil 6 rashers smoked back bacon, roughly chopped 2 leeks, halved lengthways and inely sliced 250g risotto rice 700ml hot chicken or vegetable stock 175g frozen peas 3 tbsp soft cheese zest 1 lemon
1 Snip the ends off the sausages
and squeeze out the meat. Roll into rough walnut-sized meatballs. Heat half the oil in a large, wide pan and fry until browned, around 10 mins. Remove from pan and set aside. 2 Add the rest of the oil to the pan. Tip in the onions, celery and carrots and fry for 10 mins until soft. Add garlic and cook for 1 min more. Tip in the tomatoes and 12 bbcgoodfood.com
PER SERVING 688 kcals, fat 33g, saturates 10g, carbs 67g, sugars 15g, ibre 10g, protein 34g, salt 3.6g
For an extra pop of lavour, serve with grated Parmesan on top.
saturates 7g, carbs 46g, sugars 12g,
1 Place the curry paste in a large
Bean & pasta stew with meatballs
stock. Bring to the boil and simmer for 10 mins. 3 Stir in the macaroni and return the meatballs. Simmer for about 10 mins until pasta is cooked and meatballs are cooked though. Stir in beans and heat until piping hot. Season, mix in parsley and serve.
PER SERVING 338 kcals, fat 14g,
ibre 5g, protein 10g, salt 1.19g
saturates 7g, carbs 35g, sugars 7g, ibre 3g, protein 22g, salt 0.77g
Chinese leaf and simmer for 4-6 mins, until all are tender. Mix in beansprouts and tomatoes. Add lime juice to taste and some extra seasoning, if you like. Spoon into bowls and sprinkle with spring onions and coriander.
and stir in cheese. Add the zest and season well before serving. PER SERVING 424 kcals, fat 14g, saturates 5g, carbs 55g, sugars 3g,
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. Tip the oil into an ovenproof casserole dish. Add bacon and fry for 2 mins. Add the leeks and cook until soft, but not coloured, for about 4-5 mins. Tip in rice and cook for 1 min more. Pour over stock. Cover and place in the oven for 20 mins, stirring halfway. 2 When rice is just tender and all liquid is absorbed, remove from oven and stir in peas. Place back in oven for 2 mins more. Remove
ibre 5g, protein 22g, salt 2.34g
Prawn & sausage gumbo
Thai meatball & noodle soup
Greek lamb & aubergine bake
Bacon, onion & potato bake bbcgoodfood.com 13
Thai meatball & noodle soup
Prawn & sausage gumbo
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 40 mins EASY
1.4 litres chicken stock 1 tbsp crushed lime leaves, fresh, dried or frozen 2 lemongrass stalks, 1 bashed, 1 chopped 2 tbsp soy sauce, plus extra for serving 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar 400g lean pork mince bunch spring onions, white parts inely chopped, greens sliced bunch coriander, chopped 2 red chillies, 1 deseeded and chopped, 1 sliced into rings juice 2 big limes, plus extra 300g pack mixed pepper and noodle stir-fry mix
4 sausages (spicy, raw chorizo-style work well) 1 onion, chopped 1 red pepper, deseeded and sliced 2 3 tsp Creole seasoning, or use Cajun seasoning 250g long-grain rice 500ml chicken stock 400g can chopped tomatoes 200g pack large cooked prawns small bunch coriander, most chopped
1 Pour the chicken stock into a
large, deep saucepan. Add the lime leaves, bashed lemongrass, 1 tbsp of the soy sauce and rice wine vinegar. Bring to a simmer while making the meatballs.
2 In a large bowl mix the pork,
chopped lemongrass, remaining soy sauce, white part of the spring onions, coriander stalks and chopped chilli. Roll pork mixture into walnut-sized meatballs. 3 Pop the meatballs in the stock, cover and simmer for 15 mins. Stir through the lime juice. Divide the stir-fry mix between 4 bowls, then ladle over the broth and meatballs. Serve with green spring onions and sliced chilli on top, with extra soy and lime. PER SERVING 319 kcals, fat 8g, saturates 2g, carbs 25g, sugars 6g, ibre 4g, protein 38g, salt 2.39g
1 Heat a large, deep, non-stick
frying pan or flameproof dish with a lid. Add the sausages and brown all over for 5-8 mins – you don’t need to add any oil as there is plenty of fat in the sausages. Remove the sausages, tip out some oil if there is a lot, then add the onion and soften for 5 mins. Add the pepper and seasoning,
Bacon, onion & potato bake
Greek lamb & aubergine bake
SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 40 mins EASY
SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
2 tbsp light crème fraîche 150ml chicken stock 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 tbsp chopped thyme 1.25kg potatoes, unpeeled, very thinly sliced 8 rashers lean back bacon, excess fat removed and chopped 2 onions, thinly sliced 250g Roblechon or Camembert, sliced
240g tub black olives and feta in oil, drained, reserving the oil 700g lean lamb neck illet, diced 1 aubergine, chopped 4 garlic cloves, crushed 250g bulghar wheat 400g can cherry tomatoes, drained 500ml beef stock small bunch oregano, leaves picked 3 tbsp 0% fat Greek yogurt
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. Mix together the crème fraîche and stock, stirring well. Scatter some of the garlic and thyme on the bottom of a large ovenproof dish that’s big enough for all the ingredients. Add some seasoning, a layer of potato slices, some bacon, onions and cheese, then a little of the crème fraîche and stock mix. Continue layering to use up all the ingredients, seasoning each layer, and ending 14 bbcgoodfood.com
with a final layer of potatoes topped with cheese and thyme. 2 Cover with foil and cook for 1 hr, then increase oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 8 and cook, uncovered, for 30-40 mins more, until the potatoes are tender and the top is golden and bubbling. Remove and leave to stand for 10 mins before serving. PER SERVING 368 kcals, fat 15g, saturates 8g, carbs 40g, sugars 4g, ibre 4g, protein 21g, salt 2.70g
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/
gas 6. Heat 1 tbsp of the reserved oil in a large roasting tin or flameproof dish on the hob, then add the lamb and brown for 5 mins. Add the aubergine and cook for a further 5 mins. Add half the garlic, a little more oil and the bulghar wheat, and stir to coat all the grains in the oil. Tip in the cherry tomatoes, stock and most of the oregano, then
and cook for 1 min more. 2 Stir in the rice, pour in the stock, bring to a simmer, then cover and cook for 10 mins. Add the tomatoes and cook for a further 10 mins. Return the sausages, stir through the prawns and chopped coriander, and cook, uncovered, for a further 5 mins or until hot and the rice is cooked. Sprinkle over the remaining coriander leaves just before serving. PER SERVING 538 kcals, fat 19g, saturates 8g, carbs 64g, sugars 7g, ibre 3g, protein 33g, salt 3.07g
bring to a simmer. 2 Cover tin with foil, then bake for 20 mins, removing the foil for the final 5 mins. Meanwhile, mix the yogurt with the remaining garlic and enough oil from the olives to make a thick but spoonable dressing. Season, then spoon into a bowl. 3 When the bake is ready, sprinkle over the olives, feta and remaining oregano, and serve with the yogurt dressing on the side. PER SERVING 508 kcals, fat 27g, saturates 10g, carbs 37g, sugars 4g, ibre 3g, protein 32g, salt 1.36g
Self-saucing Jaffa pudding
SERVES 8 PREP 35 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
150ml pint milk 100g orange milk chocolate or milk chocolate, broken into chunks single cream or ice cream, to serve FOR THE SAUCE 200g light muscovado sugar 25g cocoa
100g butter, melted, plus a little extra for the dish 250g self-raising lour 140g caster sugar 50g cocoa 1 tsp baking powder zest and juice 1 orange 3 eggs
1 Butter a 2-litre baking dish and heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put the kettle on. Put the flour, caster sugar, cocoa, baking powder, orange zest and a pinch of salt in a large mixing bowl. Whisk together the orange juice and any pulp left in the juicer, the eggs, melted butter and milk, then pour onto the dry
This intense chocolate orange sponge with thick sauce is as indulgent as a good pudding gets.
ingredients and mix together until smooth. Stir in the chocolate chunks and scrape everything into the baking dish. 2 Mix 300ml boiling water from the kettle with the sugar and cocoa for the sauce, then pour this all over the pudding batter â€“ donâ€™t worry, it will look very strange at this stage! Bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 30 mins until the surface looks firm, risen and crisp. You should find a glossy, rich chocolate sauce underneath the sponge. Eat immediately with vanilla ice cream or single cream. PER SERVING 522 kcals, fat 21g, saturates 11g, carbs 82g, sugars 54g, ibre 2g, protein 8g, salt 0.86g
Make Sunday special Gather everyone together for a roast â€“ it makes a relaxed meal to serve a crowd
Honey-glazed roast carrots SERVES 8 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins EASY 1kg Chantenay or small carrots, peeled 3 tbsp sun lower oil 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tbsp clear honey
1 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5.
Tip the carrots into a roasting tin and toss with the oil and some salt and pepper. Roast for 30 mins. 2 Drizzle the vinegar and honey over the carrots, toss well and return to the oven for a further 20 mins. PER SERVING 85 kcals, fat 5g, saturates 1g, carbs 10g, sugars 10g, ibre 3g, protein 1g, salt 0.13g
Peas & beans with pancetta & mint SERVES 8 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
Garlic & herb roast lamb on boulangĂ¨re potatoes SERVES 8 PREP 30 mins COOK 1 hr 45 mins EASY 2kg leg of lamb 4 garlic cloves, sliced few rosemary sprigs few thyme sprigs 2kg large potatoes, such as King Edward 2 onions, thinly sliced 600ml chicken stock 50g butter
1 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5.
Cut small pockets into the skin and flesh of the leg of lamb by piercing it with the point of a sharp knife. Stuff each pocket with a slice of garlic and a few leaves of rosemary, and scatter with thyme sprigs. Put in a roasting tin, 16 bbcgoodfood.com
season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then cover with foil. 2 Peel and thinly slice the potatoes, rinse under the cold tap and pile into a large ovenproof dish or roasting tin. Toss with the onions, remaining slices of garlic and a good scattering of herbs. 3 Heat the stock and butter together, then pour over the potatoes. Cover the dish with foil and bake in the oven with the lamb for 1 hr. Uncover, put the lamb on top of the potatoes and roast uncovered for 45 mins more. Allow the lamb to rest before carving, for about 15 mins. Leave the potatoes in the oven (covered, if starting to brown too much) until ready to serve.
1 tbsp olive oil 100g thin smoked pancetta rashers 480g pack frozen soya beans 200g broccoli 500g frozen petits pois juice of a lemon good handful mint leaves, chopped
1 Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the
pancetta until it turns golden, taking care not to burn it. Lift from the pan, then tip the soya beans into the pan juices and arrange the broccoli on top. Add 6 tbsp water, cover tightly and steam for 10 mins or until the broccoli is tender. Meanwhile, snip the pancetta into pieces with scissors. 2 Stir the petits pois into the pan and cook for 2 mins more, then remove from the heat and toss in the lemon juice, mint and crispy pancetta pieces.
PER SERVING 537 kcals, fat 24g, saturates 12g,
PER SERVING 191 kcals, fat 9g, saturates 2g, carbs
carbs 40g, sugars 3g, ibre 4g, protein 44g, salt 0.51g
13g, sugars 3g, ibre 6g, protein 15g, salt 0.65g
Roast pheasant with ricotta & Parma ham SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hour MORE EFFORT 90g pack Parma ham 140g ricotta 1 tbsp thyme leaves, plus some sprigs 3 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan 2 oven-ready pheasants, washed and dried 150ml extra dry vermouth olive oil, for drizzling
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7.
Separate the layers of Parma ham and chop two slices finely. Mix the ricotta, chopped ham, thyme and Parmesan with some seasoning. 2 Carefully ease the skin away from the breast meat of each pheasant and use 18 bbcgoodfood.com
half the stuffing per bird, pressing it to the contours of the breasts through the skin. This protects the meat from the heat and will stop it drying out. Poke some sprigs of thyme into the body cavity to add flavour. 3 Put the pheasants in a roasting tin and top each one with the remaining ham. Season with pepper, then pour over the vermouth and drizzle with oil. 4 Roast for 20 mins, then turn down the heat to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and cook for 40 mins more, basting every now and then with the pan juices until the legs are no longer pink. Cover with foil and a tea towel and stand for 10 mins before carving. Serve with wilted spinach. PER SERVING 336 kcals, fat 16g, saturates 6g, carbs 2g, ibre 0g, sugars 1g, protein 40g, salt 1.13g
roasts Foolproof slow-roast chicken SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 2 hrs 20 mins EASY
6 bay leaves 1 lemon, cut into wedges
butter, for greasing 1.6kg chicken 1kg roasting potatoes, halved or quartered if large 2 whole garlic heads, halved through the middle 100ml white wine 100ml chicken stock 2 stems rosemary, broken into sprigs
1 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3.
Brush a large roasting tin with butter and smear some all over the skin of the chicken. 2 Place the chicken in the tin and arrange the potatoes around it. Put the halved garlic heads in the tin, pour over the wine and stock, then cover with foil and cook in the oven for 1 hr. Remove
the foil and give the potatoes a shake. Add the herbs and lemon wedges, then cook, uncovered, for 50 mins. 3 Turn the heat up to 220C/180C fan/ gas 6. Cook for 30 mins more, then remove the chicken and potatoes from the pan. Cover the chicken loosely with foil and leave to rest on a plate for at least 10 mins before carving. Keep the potatoes warm. Serve with pan juices. PER SERVING 634 kcals, fat 27g, saturates 9g, carbs 56g, sugars 4g, ibre 5g, protein 44g, salt 1.76g
Roast beef with caramelised onion gravy SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins plus overnight marinating (optional) COOK about 1 hrs EASY
Side dishes don’t get much better than this - creamy, classic mashed potatoes with a hot mustard kick.
Perfect for mopping up all that gravy, these soft but crisp Yorkshires will rise every time.
SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V G
MAKES 12 PREP 5 mins plus resting COOK 40 mins EASY V
1.5kg potatoes, cut into chunks 100g butter 100ml milk 1 tsp English mustard
450ml milk 4 large eggs 250g plain lour 2 tbsp sun lower or vegetable oil
1 Up to 3-4 hrs before cooking, mix
Tip the potatoes into a large saucepan, cover with boiling water and boil for 20 mins or until soft. Drain the potatoes in a colander and leave to steam-dry for a few moments before putting them back in the pan. Add the butter, milk and mustard, season well, then mash thoroughly until creamy. Cover to keep warm until serving. PER SERVING 324 kcals, fat 14g, saturates 9g, carbs 41g, sugars 3g, ibre 4g, protein 5g, salt 0.4g
together the milk, eggs, flour and 2 tsp salt in a food processor or blender until you have a smooth batter. If you don’t have a food processor or blender, whisk the eggs into the flour and salt, then gradually whisk in the milk until smooth. Transfer to a jug, cover and leave at room temperature for at least 15 mins. 2 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 (or turn it up when the beef comes out) and brush 12 holes of a muffin tin with the oil. Heat the tin in the oven for 5 mins, then carefully lift out and quickly pour the batter into the holes. Bake in the oven for 5 mins, then reduce oven temperature to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6 and cook for a further 30 mins until puffed, risen and golden. PER YORKIE 130 kcals, fat 5g, saturates 1g, carbs 17g, sugars 2g, ibre 1g, protein 5g, salt 0.9g
1 tbsp black peppercorns 1 tbsp English mustard powder 1 tbsp dried thyme 1 tsp celery seeds 1 tbsp olive oil about 2kg topside joint of beef FOR THE GRAVY 4 tbsp plain lour 2 beef stock cubes 3 tbsp caramelised onion chutney or marmalade 2 3 tsp Marmite
1 Crush the peppercorns, mustard
powder, thyme and celery seeds together with some salt, using a pestle and mortar. Stir in the oil, then rub it all over the beef. (If you have time, cover and chill the joint overnight to marinate. Bring the beef out of the fridge 1 hr before roasting.) 2 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5 and sit the joint in a snug-ish roasting tin. Roast for 12 mins per 450g (about 55 mins for a 2kg joint) for mediumrare, or 15 mins per 450g (about 1 hr 10 mins) for medium-well. 3 Remove from the oven, lift onto a platter, cover with foil and rest for 30 mins. If you’re making the Yorkies (left), increase oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. 4 For the gravy, pour any juices from the roasting tin into a jug. Let the juices separate, then spoon 2 tbsp of the fat back into the tin – if there is no fat, use 2 tbsp butter instead. Discard any other fat. Sit the roasting tin on the hob and stir in the flour, stock cubes, onion chutney or marmalade and Marmite. Cook for 1 min, stirring well to scrape up any beefy bits stuck to the tin, then gradually stir in 750ml hot water from the kettle. Bubble to thicken to a nice consistency, then gently keep warm until ready to serve with the beef, carved into slices. PER SERVING 591 kcals, fat 28g, saturates 11g, carbs 13g, sugars 3g, ibre 1g, protein 72g, salt 1.2g
Slow-cooked suppers These recipes that work beautifully in your slow cooker â€“ ideal for family meals or casual entertaining
Chicken, bacon & potato stew, p24 22 bbcgoodfood.com
Italian vegetable bake, p24 bbcgoodfood.com 23
Thai beef curry You can use a shop-bought paste for this curry, but this authentic Thai one really is worth the effort. This is good served with sticky Thai rice and wilted greens. SERVES 8 PREP 20 mins COOK about 8 hrs EASY G
Chicken, bacon & potato stew SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 4 hrs 30 mins-6 hrs 30 mins EASY G 1 tbsp olive oil 6 bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed 12 rashers smoked streaky bacon, chopped 200g shallots 350g baby new potatoes, larger ones halved few thyme sprigs 200ml white wine 500ml hot chicken stock 280ml pot buttermilk (optional) squeeze lemon juice 2 tbsp tarragon, chopped
Italian vegetable bake SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins COOK 5 hrs 30 mins-6 hrs 30 mins EASY V G 4 garlic cloves, 3 crushed, 1 left whole 400g can chopped tomatoes bunch oregano, leaves chopped large pinch dried chilli lakes about 300g baby or normal aubergines, sliced 2 courgettes, sliced large jar roasted red peppers 3 beef tomatoes, sliced bunch basil, torn (save a few leaves for sprinkling over) small baguette, sliced and toasted 2 x 125g balls mozzarella, torn green salad, to serve
1 Put the slow cooker onto the High 1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan, or
if your slow cooker has a browning function, then use this. Brown the chicken thighs for about 10 mins, until they have a nice golden colour, then remove and set aside. Tip in the bacon and shallots, and brown these, too. 2 Tip everything apart from the buttermilk, lemon juice and 1 tbsp tarragon into your slow cooker. Simmer on High for 4-6 hrs, until the chicken is really tender and falling off the bone. 3 Check the sauce; if you like it a little thicker, strain liquid into a pan and boil until thickened. Pour in the buttermilk, if using, and whisk until smooth. Sprinkle in the lemon juice and remaining tarragon, season, then return chicken, bacon and veg if you need to. PER SERVING 284 kcals, fat 13g, saturates 4g, carbs 12g, sugars 4g, ibre 2g, protein 2g, salt 1.7g
or the browning setting and tip in the crushed garlic, canned tomatoes, half the oregano leaves, chilli and some seasoning. Cook, covered, while you chop the rest of the vegetables. 2 Tip out most of the sauce and start layering up half the vegetables and herbs with seasoning â€“ the aubergines, courgettes, red peppers, tomatoes, basil and remaining oregano. Layer in half the bread, rubbed with the whole garlic clove, half the mozzarella and half the tipped-out tomato sauce. Repeat vegetable, herb and tomato sauce layers, followed by the bread and mozzarella. Push everything down well to compress, then cook on high for 5-6 hrs. 3 Flash under the grill before serving if you like (and your slow cooker pot is suitable), until golden and bubbling. Serve with the leftover basil leaves on top and a big salad on the side. PER SERVING 274 kcals, fat 10g, saturates 6g, carbs 31g, ibre 4g, sugars 8g, protein 14g, salt 0.9g
2 3 tbsp groundnut oil 2kg beef short ribs (bone-in ribs left whole), or brisket, cut into large chunks large bunch coriander 2 lemongrass stalks, 1 bashed, 1 roughly chopped 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1 2 green chillies, roughly chopped, deseeded if you like 2cm-piece galangal or ginger, peeled and chopped 50ml rice wine vinegar 50ml ish sauce 2 tbsp palm or light brown sugar 400g can coconut milk 2 star anise 6 kaf ir lime leaves juice 2 limes, plus wedges to serve
1 Heat a little of the oil in a large pan and
brown the beef in batches, removing to a plate after, reserving any juices. If your slow cooker has a browning function, use this instead. Meanwhile, in a mini chopper or food processor, whizz half the coriander, the chopped lemongrass, garlic, chillies and galangal with the rest of the oil until you have a rough paste. 2 Turn the slow cooker to High. Heat the paste for a few mins, then add the beef and all the remaining ingredients, apart from the remaining coriander and lime juice. Turn slow cooker to Low and cook for 8 hrs, or until the meat is falling off the bone. 3 If using beef ribs, remove bones from the beef, then shred the meat with 2 forks. If the sauce is too thin, strain it off and boil it to reduce. Stir in the remaining coriander and lime juice, then season with more fish sauce or sugar. PER SERVING 541 kcals, fat 40g, saturates 20g, carbs 10g, sugars 7g, ibre 0g, protein 34g, salt 1.5g
Veggie feasts Six mains to add to your meat-free repertoire
vegetarian Spicy vegetable pilau with cucumber raita SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V FOR THE PILAU 2 garlic cloves 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 large onion, quartered & sliced thumb-sized piece ginger, chopped 1 cinnamon stick tsp cumin seeds seeds from 8 cardamom pods 1 tsp each ground turmeric & coriander 1 red chilli, halved, deseeded & sliced 1 large red pepper, deseeded & diced 50g freekeh 350ml vegetable stock (made with 2 tsp reduced-salt bouillon powder) 25g sultanas pack coriander, chopped 40g cashew nuts FOR THE RAITA 1 garlic clove 150ml pot bio yogurt cucumber, grated 2 tbsp chopped mint
1 Chop the garlic for the pilau and set
aside. Finely grate the garlic for the raita and put in a bowl. Heat the oil for the pilau in a large open pan, and fry the onion and ginger for 5 mins until softened. Stir in the whole and ground spices, and cook for a few secs to release their aromas. Add the chilli, red pepper and freekeh, stir briefly, then tip in the stock and sultanas. Simmer for 15 mins until the freekeh is tender but still nutty, adding the chopped garlic for the final 2 mins. The stock should have reduced and absorbed into the freekeh now. 2 Meanwhile, finish the raita by stirring the yogurt, cucumber and mint into the grated garlic. 3 When the pilau is cooked, stir in the coriander and cashews, and serve with the raita on the side.
Veggie rice pot
1 Boil the kettle. Heat the oil in a large,
Find two of your 5-a-day in this veggie dish â€“ a superhealthy option for midweek with plenty of flavour.
deep frying pan, then add the peppers and mushrooms. Fry over a high heat for 3 mins or until starting to soften and turn golden. Turn down the heat, then stir in the rice, garlic and five-spice. Sizzle for 2 mins, then splash in the Sherry, if using, and top up with 350ml hot water. 2 Cover the pan and simmer for between 15-20 mins until all of the liquid has gone and the rice is tender, stirring occasionally. Add the peas for the final few mins. 3 Heat another frying pan, add a drop of the sesame oil, then add the eggs. Swirl around the pan to make a thin omelette. Once set, turn out onto a board, roll up and shred thinly. Tip the egg and spring onions onto the rice, fluff up with a fork, season with soy sauce and sesame oil, then serve.
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V
PER SERVING 471 kcals, fat 20g, saturates 4g, carbs 53g, sugars 27g, ibre 7g, protein 17g, salt 0.2g
1 tbsp sun lower or groundnut oil 2 peppers (one red, one yellow), deseeded and thickly sliced 250g pack shiitake or chestnut mushrooms 250g long-grain rice (not the easy-cook type) 2 garlic cloves, inely chopped 1 heaped tsp ive-spice powder 3 tbsp dry Sherry (optional but worth it) 140g frozen petits pois 1 tsp sesame oil 2 eggs, beaten bunch spring onions, sliced diagonally 1 tbsp light soy sauce, or more if you like
PER SERVING 377 kcals, fat 9g, saturates 2g, carbs 67g, ibre 4g, sugars 9g, protein 12g, salt 1.14g
Squash, lentil & bean one-pot with fig raita Hit your whole 5-a-day with this curried veggie spice-pot, packed with pulses and squash. SERVES 2 PREP 30 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V G 400g piece butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and chunkily diced 1 onion, sliced 1 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp ground cumin tsp chilli lakes 400g can chopped tomatoes 100g dried red lentils 2 tsp agave syrup or brown sugar 2 tsp red or white wine vinegar 400g can kidney beans, drained and rinsed 2 dried igs, inely chopped 150ml pot fat-free natural yogurt small bunch parsley, chopped
1 Fry the squash and onion in the oil
for 5-8 mins until the onion is softened. Stir in the cumin and chilli for 1 min. Add the tomatoes plus a canful of water from the tomato can, the lentils, agave or sugar and vinegar. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 mins, then stir in the beans and cook for a further few mins until the lentils are tender and the beans heated through. 2 Meanwhile, mix the figs, yogurt and parsley together. Season the stew, then serve in bowls with fig raita on the side. PER SERVING 540 kcals, fat 9g, saturates 2g, carbs 83g, sugars 40g, ibre 15g, protein 28g, salt 1.2g
Chipotle bean chilli with baked eggs SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V 1 tbsp sun lower oil 1 onion, chopped 1 2 tbsp chipotle paste (depending on how hot you like it) 2 x 400g cans black beans, drained and rinsed 400g can mixed beans, drained and rinsed 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes with garlic & herbs 1 heaped tbsp brown sugar 4 eggs small handful coriander leaves soured cream and warm lour tortillas, to serve
1 Heat the oil in a deep frying pan and
cook the onion for about 5 mins until soft. Add the chipotle paste, beans, tomatoes and sugar, and simmer for about 15-20 mins until thickened. Season well. 2 Make 4 holes and crack an egg into each one. Cover and simmer over a low heat for 8-10 mins until the eggs are cooked to your liking. Sprinkle with coriander leaves and serve with a bowl of soured cream and some warm flour tortillas. PER SERVING 377 kcals, fat 10g, saturates 2g, carbs 48g, sugars 21g, ibre 15g,protein 24g, salt 0.5g
Tomato, runner bean & coconut curry SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V
Baked cauliflower pizzaiola SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V 1 large cauli lower, cut into 8 wedges 2 tbsp olive oil, plus 1 tbsp for roasting 600g ripe tomatoes (we used a mixture of red and yellow cherry tomatoes), halved or quartered 6 unpeeled garlic cloves, bashed small pack basil small pack fresh oregano, or tsp dried pinch of chilli lakes 4 tbsp dry white wine 2 tbsp grated vegetarian Italian-style hard cheese 3 tbsp breadcrumbs 125g mozzarella, torn bread and a green salad, to serve
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
Brush the cauliflower wedges with the 1 tbsp oil, then put them in a large roasting dish. Season and roast for 10 mins or until beginning to soften. Carefully turn the wedges over. 2 Tuck the tomatoes, garlic and most of the basil and oregano around the cauliflower, then sprinkle with the chilli flakes, wine and 2 tbsp more oil. Season and return to the oven for 25 mins or until the tomatoes are soft and starting to catch here and there. Squish the tomatoes slightly to help the juices flow. 3 Mix the cheese and breadcrumbs together. Tear the mozzarella over the cauliflower and tomatoes, scatter over the cheesy crumbs and bake for 10 mins more or until the topping is crisp and the cauliflower is tender. Top with the rest of the herbs and serve with crusty bread and a green salad.
Tip Pick the best tomatoes and thereâ€™s no need to make a tomato sauce for this Italian-style one-pot â€“ the oven will do the work for you.
1 tbsp vegetable or rapeseed oil 1 large onion, inely chopped 2 tbsp mild tandoori curry paste small pack coriander, stalks inely chopped, leaves roughly chopped 2 limes, 1 zested and juiced, 1 cut into wedges 200g red lentils 400ml can coconut milk 300g basmati rice 400g cherry tomatoes, halved 300g stringless runner beans, thinly sliced on the diagonal
1 Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based
saucepan. Add the onion and cook for 5-10 mins on a medium heat until softened. Add the paste, coriander stalks and lime zest, and cook for 1-2 mins until fragrant. Tip in the red lentils, coconut milk and 400ml hot water, and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for 15 mins. Meanwhile, put a pan of water on to boil and cook the rice following pack instructions. 2 Add the tomatoes and runner beans to the lentils and cook for a further 5 mins. Drain the rice. Add the lime juice to the curry, check the seasoning and sprinkle over the coriander leaves. Serve with the rice and lime wedges for squeezing over.
PER SERVING 358 kcals, fat 19g, saturates 8g,
PER SERVING 716 kcals, fat 24g, saturates 16g,
carbs 20g, sugars 10g, ibre 8g, protein 19g, salt 0.8g
carbs 98g, sugars 10g, ibre 9g, protein 22g, salt 0.6g
salads Give your salads an autumn makeover by adding some cooked ingredients
New potato salad with bacon & blue cheese SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 40 mins EASY 500g salad potatoes, halved 2 tbsp olive oil 2 red onions, each sliced into 6 wedges 4 rashers smoked back bacon, trimmed and cut into large pieces 140g mushrooms, sliced 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 100g bag mixed watercress & spinach salad 85g creamy blue cheese (we used St Agur)
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7.
Place the potatoes in a roasting tin, then rub with 1 tbsp oil and a sprinkling of
salt. Roast for 20 mins, then add the onion wedges to the tin, giving the tin a good shake. Roast for 20 mins more until the potatoes have turned a deep golden brown and the onions have caramelised and softened. Leave to cool slightly. 2 Heat a non-stick frying pan. Dry-fry the bacon until crisp. Add the mushrooms, then fry for 5 mins until softened. 3 Meanwhile, make the dressing. Whisk the mustard, vinegar and remaining 1 tbsp oil with a splash of water. Place potatoes, onions, bacon and mushrooms in a large bowl with the salad leaves, pour over the dressing, then toss well. Divide between 4 plates, then crumble over the blue cheese. PER SERVING 289 kcals, fat 17g, saturates 7g, carbs 25g, sugars 5g, ibre 3g, protein 11g, salt 1.65g
Chicken & goat’s cheese salad SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY 2 chicken breasts, cut into bite-size pieces small baguette, cut into bite-size pieces 4 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 150g pack mixed salad leaves 1 x 250g pack cooked beetroot, cut into bite-size pieces 100g goat’s cheese
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
Spread the chunks of chicken and baguette over a shallow roasting tray. Drizzle with 2 tbsp oil and toss to coat. Season, then roast for 15 mins until the chicken is cooked through and the bread is golden and crisp. 2 Whisk together the remaining olive oil and balsamic vinegar to make a dressing. Split the bag of leaves between two serving plates, add the beetroot, then scatter the cheese over. Toss with the warm chicken and bread, drizzle with the dressing, then serve straight away. PER SERVING 625 kcals, fat 35g, saturates 10g, carbs 32g, sugars 15g, ibre 4g, protein 48g, salt 2.88g
Tip When you’re cooking chicken breasts, leave the skin on – it will add plenty of lavour and ensure the meat doesn’t dry out. You can remove it after cooking if you’re watching your fat intake.
salads Mackerel & beetroot salad SERVES 4 easily halved PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY 450g new potatoes, cut into bite-size pieces 3 smoked mackerel illets, skinned 250g pack cooked beetroot 100g bag mixed salad leaves 2 celery sticks, inely sliced 50g walnut pieces FOR THE DRESSING 6 tbsp bought good-quality salad dressing 2 tsp creamed horseradish sauce
1 Boil the potatoes for 12-15 mins until
just tender. Meanwhile, flake the mackerel fillets into large pieces and cut the beetroot into bite-size chunks. 2 Drain the potatoes and cool slightly. Mix the salad dressing and horseradish sauce together in a salad bowl and season. Tip in the potatoes â€“ they should still be warm. 3 Add the salad leaves, mackerel, beetroot, celery and walnuts, and toss gently. Serve with crusty bread. PER SERVING 645 kcals, fat 49g, saturates 8g, carbs 29g, ibre 3g, sugars 11g, protein 24g, salt 2.37g
Autumn menu Entertaining is a breeze with this make-ahead starter and dessert, and quick-to-cook main course
Dinner for 4 • Butternut soup with crispy sage & apple croutons • Baked sea bass with lemon caper dressing • Sauté potatoes with sea salt & rosemary • Wilted spinach with nutmeg & garlic • Merlot-poached pears with vanilla & cinnamon
Rich, velvety soup, p34 32 bbcgoodfood.com
Easy, quick-to-cook fish, p34 bbcgoodfood.com 33
Butternut soup with crispy sage & apple croutons
Baked sea bass with lemon caper dressing
Sauté potatoes with sea salt & rosemary
The apple and sage contrast beautifully with the naturally sweet butternut squash. This makes quite a small amount, but don’t be tempted to increase it – soup can be quite filling as a starter, and you don’t want to spoil appetites for the courses to come.
The skinless, boneless fillets of sea bass that are widely available from supermarkets are ideal for this – they’re ready to go, and so quick to cook.
You can’t beat good sauté potatoes – the secret is boiling the potatoes in their skins before frying.
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V G
4 x 100g sea bass illets olive oil, for brushing FOR THE CAPER DRESSING 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil grated zest 1 lemon, plus 2 tbsp juice 2 tbsp small capers 2 tsp gluten-free Dijon mustard 2 tbsp chopped lat-leaf parsley, plus a few extra leaves (optional)
1 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 butternut squash, about 1kg/2lb 4oz, peeled, deseeded and chopped 3 tbsp Madeira or dry Sherry 500ml gluten-free vegetable stock, plus a little extra if necessary 1 tsp chopped sage, plus 20 small leaves, cleaned and dried sun lower oil, for frying FOR THE APPLE CROUTONS 1 tbsp olive oil 1 large eating apple, peeled, cored and diced a few pinches of golden caster sugar
1 Heat the oil in a large pan, add the
onion and fry for 5 mins. Add the garlic and squash, and cook for 5 mins more. Pour in the Madeira and stock, stir in the chopped sage, then cover and simmer for 20 mins until the squash is tender. 2 Blitz with a hand blender or in a food processor until completely smooth. Allow to cool in the pan, then chill until ready to serve. Will keep for 2 days or freeze for 3 months. To make the crispy sage, heat some oil (a depth of about 2cm) in a small pan, then drop in the sage leaves until they are crisp – you will need to do this in batches. Drain on kitchen paper. Will keep for several hours. 3 Just before serving, reheat the soup in a pan. The texture should be quite thick and velvety, but thin it with a little stock if it is too thick. 4 For the apple croutons, heat the oil in a large pan, add the apple and fry until starting to soften. Sprinkle with the sugar and stir until lightly caramelised. 5 To serve, ladle the soup into small bowls and top with the apple, sage and a grinding of black pepper. PER SERVING 231 kcals, fat 7g, saturates 1g, carbs 31g, sugars 20g, ibre 8g, protein 4g, salt 0.4g
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
1 To make the dressing, mix the oil with
the lemon zest and juice, capers, mustard, some seasoning and 1 tbsp water. Don’t add the parsley yet (unless serving straight away) as the acid in the lemon will fade the colour if they are left together for too long. 2 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Line a baking tray with baking parchment and put the fish, skin-side up, on top. Brush the skin with oil and sprinkle with some flaky salt. Bake for 7 mins or until the flesh flakes when tested with a knife. Arrange the fish on warm serving plates, spoon over the dressing and scatter with extra parsley leaves, if you like.
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 30 mins EASY V 6 even-sized medium potatoes (about 700g) 2 tbsp rapeseed oil 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp chopped rosemary generous sprinkling laky salt
1 Put the whole unpeeled potatoes in a
pan of water. Bring to the boil and cook for 15 mins. Drain and leave to cool. Can be done several hours ahead. 2 When ready to serve, strip the skins from the potatoes, then cut them into thick slices. Heat the oils together in a very large non-stick frying pan. Add the potatoes in a single layer if there is room, and cook for 10-15 mins, tuning them frequently with a fish slice until they are golden and crispy. Sprinkle with the rosemary and flaky salt, then serve. PER SERVING 233 kcals, protein 3g, carbs 28g, fat 11g, sat fat 1g, ibre 3g, sugar 1g, salt 0.5g
Wilted spinach with nutmeg & garlic This makes a very easy last-minute accompaniment, especially if you buy a bag of ready-washed spinach.
PER SERVING 196 kcals, fat 13g, saturates 2g, carbs 1g, sugars 1g, ibre 0g, protein 20g, salt 0.8g
SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V 1 2 tbsp olive oil 4 garlic cloves, chopped 500g bag baby spinach leaves 1 nutmeg
1 Heat the oil in a large wok, add the
garlic and stir-fry until it starts to soften. Add the spinach in big handfuls, putting more in the pan as it wilts. 2 Grate in about an eighth of a nutmeg and mix well. Serve straight away. PER SERVING 68 kcals, fat 4g, saturates 1g, carbs 2g, sugars 2g, ibre 4g, protein 4g, salt 0.4g
Weekend bake Apples and caramel are a heavenly duo in this easy, nutty loaf cake
Toffee apple & pecan cake CUTS INTO 10 slices PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr EASY G without frosting 175g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing 200g Carnation caramel 50g light muscovado sugar 3 large eggs, at room temperature 175g plain lour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tangy eating apple, peeled, half chopped, half thinly sliced 50g pecans, half inely chopped, half roughly broken
FOR THE FROSTING AND DRIZZLE 50g icing sugar 25g unsalted butter, just softened but not greasy 2 tbsp Carnation caramel
1 Grease and line a 900g loaf tin with a
strip of parchment. Heat oven to 180C/ 160C fan/gas 4. Using electric hand beaters, beat the caramel, sugar and butter until smooth and even. Add the eggs, flour, baking powder and vanilla, then beat again until even. Fold in the chopped apples and chopped pecans. 2 Spoon into the loaf tin, then poke the sliced apples into the batter and scatter
it with the broken pecans. Bake for 30 mins, then cover the top loosely with foil and return to the oven for 30 mins more, until risen and a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean. Cool for 10 mins in the tin, then transfer to a rack to cool completely. 3 For the frosting, cream the icing sugar and butter together with electric beaters until pale, then beat in 1 tbsp caramel. Split the cake into 2 and sandwich with the frosting. To finish, warm the remaining caramel with 1 tsp water until runny, then drizzle over the cake. PER SLICE 340 kcals, fat 22g, saturates 12g, carbs 30g, sugars 18g, ibre 1g, protein 5g, salt 0.2g
dinner party Merlot-poached pears with vanilla & cinnamon Whole pears look very elegant, but can be a little tricky to eat. If you prefer to serve them halved, scoop out the core with a metal measuring teaspoon or melon baller, then poach them for just 10-15 mins depending on how ripe they are. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus chilling COOK 1 hr EASY 750ml bottle Merlot or other red wine 200g golden caster sugar 2 cinnamon sticks, snapped in half 1 vanilla pod, halved lengthways then halved across to make 4 strips 4 irm pears, peeled
1 Tip the wine, sugar, cinnamon and
vanilla into a deep medium pan and heat gently until the sugar dissolves. Add the pears, making sure they are fully covered by the wine, then simmer for 30 mins until they are just tender. If the pears are very ripe, they may be ready in 20 mins. Can be made up to 2 days ahead â€“ leave the pears in the syrup in the fridge until youâ€™re ready to finish the recipe. 2 Remove the pears from the pan with a slotted spoon and boil the syrup for 30 mins to reduce it and make it more syrupy. Cool, then chill for up to 2 days. Remove from the fridge 1 hr before serving. PER SERVING 399 kcals, fat 0g, saturates 0g, carbs 65g, ibre 4g, sugars 65g, protein 1g, salt 0.1g
soups Merguez beanpot
Cheatâ€™s chicken ramen
Satisfying soups Beetroot soup with feta, radish & croutons
Roasted sweet potato & carrot soup bbcgoodfood.com 37
soups Cheat’s chicken ramen
Merguez beanpot SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 45 mins EASY
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 20 mins EASY 1.2 litres good-quality chicken stock small pack coriander, stalks and leaves separated 1 red chilli (deseeded if you don’t like it too hot), sliced 2 tbsp light soy sauce 100g grey oyster mushrooms, sliced 100g pack baby pak choi 2 skinless cooked chicken breasts, sliced 100g egg noodles 50g sliced bamboo shoots
1 Set a large saucepan over a
medium heat and pour in the stock. Finely chop the coriander stalks and add to the stock with most of the chilli. Bring to the boil and add 200ml water. Once boiled, reduce the heat and simmer for 5-10 mins to infuse the coriander and chilli.
2 Add the soy sauce and a
grinding of black pepper, then the mushrooms, pak choi, chicken and noodles. Simmer for 2 mins until the noodles soften, before adding the bamboo shoots. 3 Serve in deep bowls topped with coriander leaves and the remaining chilli slices. PER SERVING 255 kcals, fat 5g, saturates 2g, carbs 20g, sugars 2g, ibre 4g, protein 30g, salt 2.4g
Beetroot soup with feta, radish & croutons
1 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large saucepan
and add the chopped onion, frying for 5 mins until slightly softened. Add the garlic, stirring to combine for 1 min, then toss in the beetroot and cook for 15 mins. 2 Pour in the stock and bring to the boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat and simmer uncovered for 30 mins or until the beetroot is tender. Season well and leave to 38 bbcgoodfood.com
1 Heat the oil in a large pan,
add the merguez sausages and fry them until browned. Add the chopped onions and red pepper, and fry for 5 mins until softened. Add the cans of chopped tomatoes and 1 can of water, the Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard and brown sugar. Season and bring to the boil. Give
it a stir, then reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 15 mins. 2 Stir in the kidney beans, return to a simmer and cook for a further 5 mins. Scatter with chopped parsley or coriander and serve in bowls with some tortillas for dipping. PER SERVING 658 kcals, fat 39g, saturates 12g, carbs 47g, sugars 28g, ibre 10g, protein 25g, salt 4.8g
Roasted sweet potato & carrot soup SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V G
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus 2 hrs chilling (optional) COOK 50 55 mins EASY V G soup only 2 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, inely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1kg fresh beetroot, peeled and diced (wear rubber gloves to stop your hands turning pink) 1.5 litres vegetable stock 1 /2 small loaf sourdough, diced into large croutons 100g radishes, inely sliced 100g feta, crumbled
2 tbsp olive oil 500g merguez sausages, cut into bite-sized pieces 2 onions, chopped 1 red pepper, chopped 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp Dijon mustard 2 tbsp brown sugar 2 x 400g cans cannellini or red kidney beans, drained coriander or parsley and tortillas, to serve
cool a little before blending. 3 Meanwhile, heat the grill to high and put the sourdough croutons on a baking sheet drizzled with the remaining 1 tbsp oil and toast until golden. Whizz the soup until smooth using a hand blender. 4 If serving the soup chilled, leave to cool completely and chill for a couple of hrs before serving. If serving hot, warm through in the pan for 2-3 mins. Serve in bowls or mugs with the croutons, radishes and crumbled feta scattered over. PER SERVING 403 kcals, fat 13g, saturates 4g, carbs 52g, sugars 25g, ibre 11g, protein 15g , salt 2.9g
500g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 300g carrots, peeled and cut into chunks 3 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, inely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 litre vegetable stock 100ml crème fraîche, plus extra to serve
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/
gas 7 and put the sweet potatoes and carrots into a large roasting tin, drizzled with 2 tbsp olive oil and plenty of seasoning. Roast the veg in the oven for 25-30 mins or until caramelised and tender. 2 Meanwhile, put the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil in a large deep saucepan and fry the onion over a medium-low heat for about 10 mins until softened. Add the garlic and stir for 1 min before adding the stock. Simmer for 5-10 mins until the onions are
very soft, then set aside. 3 Once the roasted veg is done, leave to cool a little, then transfer to the saucepan and use a hand blender to process until smooth. Stir in the crème fraîche, a little more seasoning and reheat until hot. Serve in bowls topped with a swirl of crème fraîche and a good grinding of black pepper. PER SERVING 419 kcals, fat 19g, saturates 8g, carbs 45g, sugars 27g, ibre 10g, protein 11g, salt 0.9g
Comfort puds Cheer up chilly days with an indulgent dessert
Pear & blackberry crumbles SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 35 mins EASY G 700g (or 4 large) ripe English pears, peeled and cubed 100g golden granulated sugar 250g punnet frozen blackberries 200g plain lour 100g unsalted butter, cold, cut into small pieces 85g shelled pistachios, chopped 100g demerara sugar ice cream, to serve (optional)
1 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5.
Place the pears in a medium-size pan, add the granulated sugar and cook on a medium heat until the fruit starts to soften and releases its juices, about 10 mins. Add the blackberries and bring back to the boil, then remove from the heat. Spoon the fruity mixture into 4 individual ovenproof ramekins, or 1 large baking dish. 2 Place the flour, butter and a pinch of salt in a large bowl and rub together with your fingers until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add the pistachios and demerara sugar, then stir to combine. 3 Sprinkle the crumble evenly over the cooked fruit. This can be done up to 1 day ahead, or frozen for up to 1 month. Bake for 20-25 mins if small, 40 mins if large, until golden. If baking from frozen, add 15 mins cooking time. Remove from the oven, cool slightly, then serve with ice cream, if you like. PER SERVING 768 kcals, fat 33g, saturates 15g, carbs 115g, sugars 76g, ibre 7g, protein 10g, salt 0.05g
Baked fruity pudding SERVES 4 6 PREP 20 25 mins COOK 2 hrs A CHALLENGE 450g mixed autumn fruit â€“ we used ripe plums, peeled apples, pears and blackberries 2 tbsp butter, plus extra for greasing 200g caster sugar 1 tsp cinnamon 300g self-raising lour 140g shredded suet zest 1 lemon
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Cut 2 x 5cm-wide strips of parchment and lay them up the sides of a 1.2-litre pudding basin, making a cross on the bottom of the dish. Make sure there is 40 bbcgoodfood.com
some overhang to help you release the pudding when cooked. Grease again. Lay a square of foil and equal-size square of greased parchment on top of each other, folding a pleat down the middle. 2 To make the filling, chop plums, apples and pears into 1cm cubes and place in a bowl with the blackberries. Add butter, broken into bits, 125g of sugar and cinnamon. Stir and put to the side. 3 Sift flour into mixing bowl. Mix in suet, remaining sugar and zest. Add a few drops of water, working it through with a cutlery knife, then keep adding water until you have soft dough. Bring the dough together into a smooth ball. Tip out onto a lightly floured surface. Tear the dough into 3/4 and 1/4 parts. Roll the larger portion into a rough circle, approx
20cm. Drop into the basin and press up the sides until you have a slight overhang. Tip the filling into the pastry case. Roll out the remaining 1/4 to make a lid, then press the pastry edges together to seal. Tuck the flaps of parchment onto the pastry. 4 Put foil/parchment on top (foil side up), pressing and squeezing the foil round the edges to make a fitted lid. Tie string securely around the lid, making a handle with extra doubled-up string. Put in a deep roasting tin, then pour boiling water to 1-2cm below foil line. Cook for 2 hrs, topping up water level if it gets too low. Unwrap, release edges using parchment tabs and invert onto a plate. PER SERVING (4) 841 kcals, fat 39g, saturates 19g, carbs 124g, sugars 63g, ibre 5g, protein 7g, salt 0.83g
puddings Slow-baked clotted cream rice pudding Homemade rice pudding with your own quick raspberry jam is the ultimate in comfort food. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 15 mins EASY 25g butter, plus extra for greasing 100g short grain pudding rice 450ml full-fat milk 284ml pot double cream 227g tub clotted cream 1 split vanilla pod 85g golden caster sugar freshly grated nutmeg
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Lightly butter a shallow ovenproof dish. Wash the rice well under cold water, then drain. Bring the milk and creams to the boil with the vanilla pod, add the rice and sugar, then stir well. 2 Tip the rice into the prepared dish, then grate a little nutmeg over the top. Dot with knobs of butter, bake for 15 mins, lower the oven to 160C/140C fan/ gas 3, then bake for 1 hr more, by which time the pudding should be golden brown on top and creamy underneath. Serve with spoonfuls of Quick raspberry jam (see recipe, below). PER SERVING 972 kcals, fat 84g, saturates 50g, carbs 49g, sugars 30g, ibre 0g, protein 8g, salt 0.29g
Serve with Quick raspberry jam Tip 100g golden caster sugar into a saucepan with 2 tbsp water and bring to the boil until the sugar has dissolved. Stir in 225g fresh or frozen raspberries (defrosted if frozen), bring everything to the boil, then cook for 3 4 mins until the raspberries have broken down into a thick, jammy sauce. Will keep in the fridge for a few days. Serve with the rice pudding.
Apple flapjack trifle A buttery flapjack trifle with nuggets of sugared and spiced oats - perfect for sharing. SERVES 6 PREP 15 20 mins plus cooling COOK 10 mins EASY 100g porridge oats 1 tsp mixed spice 50g light muscovado sugar 50g butter FOR THE FILLING 7 8 Cox apples, depending on size 25g butter 25g golden caster sugar 2 tbsp blackcurrant coulis 500g carton fresh custard 284ml carton double cream
1 Mix the oats, spice and sugar. Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the oats and fry for about 5 mins, stirring all the time, until they are lightly toasted and crisp (they become crispier still on cooling). Tip into a bowl and leave to cool. 2 Peel, core and thickly slice the apples. Melt the butter in the frying pan until it is foaming, add the apples and fry quickly over a fairly high heat, flipping them over when they start to colour. Sprinkle over the sugar and cook for 2-3 mins, until the apples are slightly softened, then leave to cool. 3 Layer half the apples and almost half the oats in a glass serving dish, repeat, setting aside a few oats. Drizzle over the coulis, then spoon over the custard. Whip the cream until stiff, then spoon
over the custard. Scatter over the remaining oats. Serve straight away or chill for up to 6 hrs. PER SERVING 573 kcals, fat 38g, saturates 23g, carbs 54g, sugars 21g, ibre 3g, protein 6g, salt 0.3g
A little help with ingredients Q Look for fresh custard lecked with vanilla seeds for a real vanillary lavour. Q Any dark-fruit ready-made coulis will work well, try â€˜Forest fruitsâ€™. Q Braeburn, Gala, Pink Lady are all good alternatives to Cox apples.
puddings Apple & blackberry crumble SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY G FOR THE CRUMBLE TOPPING 120g plain lour 60g caster sugar 60g unsalted butter at room temperature, cut into pieces FOR THE FRUIT COMPOTE 300g Braeburn apples 30g unsalted butter 30g demerara sugar 115g blackberries tsp ground cinnamon vanilla ice cream, to serve
1 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Tip the plain flour and sugar into a large bowl. Add the butter, then rub into the flour using your fingertips to make a light breadcrumb texture. Do not overwork it or the crumble will become heavy. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture evenly over a baking sheet and bake for 15 mins or until lightly coloured. 2 Meanwhile, for the compote, peel, core and cut the apples into 2cm dice. Put the butter and sugar in a medium saucepan and melt together over a medium heat.
Cook for 3 mins until the mixture turns to a light caramel. Stir in the apples and cook for 3 mins. Add the blackberries and cinnamon, and cook for 3 mins more. Cover, remove from the heat, then leave for 2-3 mins to continue cooking in the warmth of the pan. 3 To serve, spoon the warm fruit into an ovenproof gratin dish, top with the crumble mix, then reheat in the oven for 5-10 mins. Serve with vanilla ice cream. PER SERVING 395 kcals, fat 19g, saturates 12g, carbs 56g, sugars 33g, ibre 3g, protein 4g, salt 0.02g
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Toffee apple & pecan cake, p36
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