TI News Around the world with The Textile Institute Bangladesh In February 2009 I was invited to participate in a UNIDO project in Dhaka as a librarian expert. My first visit was in April and a second follow up visit in June. The overall objective of the Bangladesh Quality Support Programme (BQSP) is to contribute to growth and poverty reduction assisting Bangladesh in the development, strengthening and diversification of its production and export base. The textile industry in Bangladesh accounts for 45% of all industrial employment and contributes 5% to the total national income. 78% percent of the countryâ€™s export earnings come from textiles and apparel, according to the latest figures available. Bangladesh exports its apparel products worth nearly USD$5 billion per year to the US, European Union (EU), Canada and other countries of the world. It is the sixth largest apparel supplier to the US and EU countries. Major products exported from Bangladesh include polyester filament fabrics, man-made filament mixed fabrics, PV fabrics, viscose filament fabrics and man-made spun yarns. Major garments exported include knitted and woven shirts and blouses, trousers, skirts, shorts, jackets, sweaters and sportswear, among other fashion apparel. The academic institutes aim to support the progression of the textile industry in Bangladesh. Providing a good quality 2 education with a strong emphasis on core textile skills is viewed as the key to continued growth. On arriving in Dhaka the first thing that hits you is the heat, thatâ€™s after an extremely long wait in immigration. April in 3 Bangladesh is hot but June is something entirely different with over 95% humidity. Dhaka itself is a city of contrasts from the sing-song bells of the cycle rickshaws with their brightly coloured awnings, to the 4 battered and bruised buses ferrying Dhakaâ€™s twelve million plus population around the city. Whilst in Dhaka I visited a number of university textile
libraries and research centres who valued the importance of the library, but which, have not had the opportunity to create a collection of any real substance. There are around 3000 students on textile related courses in Dhaka alone, and yet, the facilities available for research are limited. Most libraries have very small collections, of mainly photocopied books, there are very few journals within the collections and some but not all have IT facilities. What the libraries lack in facilities, the people make up for in 5 enthusiasm and a desire to learn and improve the services offered. Many of the library staff told me of the difficulty they face when 6 trying to purchase books from overseas sellers, as they are often confiscated by Bangladeshi Customs, creating a heavy reliance on illegally photocopied books. Through the UNIDO project the libraries have been able to acquire new books, many of which have been purchased through The Textile Institute and its publishing and book selling partners. The first consignments of
publications were delivered while I was in Dhaka and presented to the individual universities, who were delighted to receive them. The next consignment is in the process of being shipped. The visits culminated in a series of seminars to a group of stakeholders, senior university staff and librarians. All of the seminars were well attended with lively debates throughout. The first seminar looked at creating a textile library and in the second we looked in-depth at integrated library systems and security. I would like to take this opportunity to thank all the wonderful people I met in Bangladesh, the library and university staff, the personnel of the UNIDO office and every body else who made the trip both enjoyable and memorable.
Rebecca Unsworth Director of Professional Affairs
1 2 3 4 5
Old Dhaka Dhaka English Language Class British Council Library Bangladesh Independence Monument 6 UNIDO Office Staff, John Smith and Rebecca Unsworth
H.R.H. the Princess Royal discusses the importance of textile conservation with Mr Clemens Nathan, Fellow of The Textile Institute and Honorary Fellow of Shenkar College The Textile Conservation Centre in Winchester, UK, has, for the last 30 years since it was moved from Hampton Court, developed a unique form of training in textile conservation and restoration for Curators of Museums. Its MA degrees are recognised worldwide and many of its graduates are today working in museums including the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, amongst many others. Professor Zvi Koren of the Edelstein Centre of Antiquities at Shenkar College in Israel has visited the Centre and lectured to students on how he examines and analyses dyestuffs from biblical textiles as far back as 1900 BC. Some of the oldest fabrics are from Beni in Egypt although much older textiles have of course been discovered in China. Unfortunately, the Centre may have to close due to lack of funding, although people from all over the world have been sending some of the most priceless fabrics and garments to Winchester for conservation. In the case of the UK, the coffin cloak of Henry VIII and dresses from Elizabeth I, together with many other fascinating items, have been entrusted to the centre for conservation. The painstaking work involved in conserving such items requires a unique type of person who can concentrate and devote time to the task over a period of many months. It would be a tragedy if the Centre was to close. Princess Anne has been a Patron of the Centre for many years and was deeply saddened to learn of the possibility of its closure, as are Clemens Nathan and Walter Sondhelm who have both been advisers at the Centre for many years.
26 textiles · issue 3 · 2009
Events Trend Intelligence 2010: Evening Webinar, 22 September 2009 Online London College of Fashion has arranged a panel of three forecasting experts to deliver a live seminar online. They will discuss the trends for 2010, how to analyse them and use them to maximise your business. Delegates will log in to hear and see the presentations and can submit questions using text chat. A recording of the session will be available to delegates for a three month period after the event. The topics covered during this webinar will include trend round up and overviews for Autumn/Winter 2010; consumer insight; how trends impact on your bottom line; and how to analyse trends and apply them to your business. Delegates are required to have access to a computer with an internet connection and sound card. For further information or to book your place visit: www.fashiontraining.co.uk/acatalog/ Trend_intelligence_2010__webinar.html
Sizing up the global market’ 24 September 2009, Daventry, UK The clothing and textile forum, ASBCI, has announced details of a technical seminar dedicated to addressing and resolving issues relating to garment size and fit. The seminar entitled ‘Sizing up the global market’ will be run in partnership with the world’s largest sizing technology specialist Alvanon and Company Clothing Magazine on Thursday 24 September 2009, at The Barceló Daventry Hotel, Daventry, Northamptonshire from 9.30am to 4.00pm. The technically driven seminar will platform some of the clothing industry’s foremost specialists in sizing and fit, including the world’s leading authority on the subject, Ed Gribbin – whose company Alvanon holds the industry’s largest body-scan database. He will be joined by Richard Barnes of Select Research who is currently conducting a major UK children’s sizing survey on behalf of the NHS and major high street and brand names. He will be followed by Clare Culliney and Steve Hayes from Manchester Metropolitan University who will expand on the technologies they are using in collaboration with Select Research while Christopher Schyma, strategic account manager from Lectra will demonstrate how new sizing and fit data systems can work with the latest garment design, cutting and production technologies. In recognition that sizing and fit challenges are shared by the corporate and workwear sector, Incorporatewear’s Brian Lamb, operation’s director and Paula Cannon, design manager have been invited to reveal how it is tackling fit issues. Ed Gribbin, who has 20 years' experience in the corporate wear sector, will also look at the challenges facing the corporate wear market. The cost to TI members of this one day seminar will be GBP£75 + VAT per person, including lunch. Non-member companies/individuals will pay GBP£150 + VAT. For more information please contact: Stephanie Ingham, ASBCI Tel: +44 (0)1422 354666, Fax: +44 (0)1422 381184 Email email@example.com www.asbci.co.uk
Embroidery with Style: Hand & Lock Conference 31 October 2009, Glasgow, UK For this year’s conference run in conjunction with Glasgow Caledonian University, Hand & Lock will explore the influence of embroidery on style within the fashion industry, with the help of some of the most knowledgeable fashion experts and those who determine today’s style. Supported by the Glasgow School of Art, Cardonald College and Glasgow City Marketing Bureau and hosted by the City which influenced the style of Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Everyone interested in embroidery and fashion who creates, designs, studies, teaches, collects, researches, appreciates or works with modern or traditional embroidery as an art, craft, hobby or profession should attend this conference. Speakers include Alastair Macleod, Sir Tom Baker, James Sherwood, Sana Uddin, François Lesage, Anthea Godfrey, Carne Griffiths, Angus Howard Cundey, Raymond Honeyman and Emma McClintock. For further information or to register please visit www.handembroidery.com
Cutting Edge: Lasers and Creativity 4 November 2009, Loughborough, UK The Textile Institute is pleased to be supporting this oneday symposium at Loughborough University exploring lasers in art & design and their contribution to making artifacts. Aimed at researchers, art and design practitioners, educators and laser technologists, the use of laser processing in the creative technologies will be explored through a series of illustrated presentations and panel discussions showing what exciting work is currently being produced and exploring current research and new opportunities. The conference will be held at Loughborough University School of Art and Design, Further Information : www.lboro.ac.uk/departments/ac/mainpages/SymposiumCuttingEdge/symposium_cutting_edge.htm
TI Centenary World Conference
Textile Institute Parliamentary Lunch
3-4 November 2010, Manchester, UK
6 November 2009 – The House of Lords, London, UK
The Textile Institute is pleased to announce the date for the next world conference which will be held in Manchester on the 3 & 4 November 2010. A full call for papers will be issued in the next edition of textiles. This will be the pivotal event during 2010 celebrating 100 years of The Textile Institute. Corporate sponsorship is available providing a great opportunity for companies to be involved in the major international textile event of 2010. If you would like to discuss how your company can become involved please contact firstname.lastname@example.org Please see the carrier sheet with this issue of textiles for further information.
This prestigious event will once again be hosted by The Lord Haskel, past president of The Textile Institute. For early provisional bookings and further information please contact Bill Bohm at the TI’s London office: Email: email@example.com or Tel: +44 (0)207 580 8289
If you are planning an event over the coming months that you think other members would be interested in please send details to firstname.lastname@example.org
Teachers Seminars As part of The Textile Institute programme to support teachers of textiles in UK secondary schools, three seminars were held at the London College of Fashion and Manchester Metropolitan University, Hollings Faculty, in June. Topics covered included Sustainability and Ethical Production with contributions from Paul Wright (George at Asda), Liz Parker (Labour behind the Label), Abigail Petit (Gossypium) and Claire Pajaczkowska (Royal College of Art); Achieving the Fit, a hands on pattern cutting session with Carmen Grech a senior technologist; CAD/CAM in industry with Ruth Howcroft (Lectra); and the Retailer and the Manufacturer with Sophie McLaughlin (Top Shop).There was an interesting tour of advanced technology at the London College of Fashion with Jeni Bougourd and colleagues and a look at web based
resources with Julia Gaimster (London College of Fashion). More seminars for teachers are planned in London on September 18 and 25, and Manchester on September 30. These will look at innovative materials including smart materials, textile testing procedures, and colour forecasting. Because of high demand there will also be further sessions on sustainability and ethical production and hands on pattern cutting as practised in industry. For further information contact Bill Bohm: Email: email@example.com or Tel +44 (0)20 7580 8289 Teachers are encouraged to join as individual members or school members and participate in the formation of a Teachers SIG (Special Interest Group).
The Textile Institute was pleased to be invited to Kingston University to attend their show at Graduate Fashion Week 2009. The show which took place on Sunday 7 June at Earls Court was extremely well attended. There was a real air of excitement and the standard of work was exceptional. The students work has been well received with many being offered placements including Emma Glynn who has been invited by Italian clothing brand, MaxMara to work on their Weekend Range this summer. With almost 22,000 students, Kingston University is the largest provider of higher education in South West London, offering an extensive range of undergraduate and postgraduate programmes both in the UK and overseas. The University is renowned for teaching excellence, has established itself as a growing force in research and is a pioneer in the launch of foundation degrees. In its most recent University league table, The Sunday Times praised Kingston’s record for teaching quality, positioning it “in the vanguard of the modern university sector” and making the University “a match for many older institutions”.
For more information please visit www.eytechnologies.com
28 textiles · issue 3 · 2009
Kingston University Graduate Fashion Show
EY Technologies is a custom engineering group providing creative answers to industrial yarn requirements. EY Technologies products are linear composite materials based on man-made fibre substrates, usually treated with polymeric systems to enhance functional properties. Product end markets include: electrical equipment, paper machine clothing, transportation, telecommunications, and composite industries. The team of talented professionals is supported by highly trained and dedicated plant personnel and customer service representatives. Laboratory, testing and manufacturing facilities are located in the company’s modern 40,000 square foot Massachusetts, US headquarters. EY Technologies has the equipment, the technology and the experience to develop and produce efficient solutions that fit the needs of a growing list of original equipment manufacturers. The company also has sales offices in Asia, Brazil, South America and Europe.
SECTION SECTIONNEWS NEWS• • SECTION NEWS • SECTION NEWS • London South East Section “Going for Gold” a collaborative symposium from the London regions of The Textile Institute and the Society of Dyers and Colourists. On the 30 April 2009 the London Regions held the “Going for Gold” event at the American InterContinental University. This half day symposium was well supported by over 100 delegates from both industry and various universities. The morning started with an introduction by Gill Stark, dean of AIU followed by Stephen Rubin, chairman of the leading UK headquartered international sporting goods company Pentland. Stephen whose involvement with the British Olympic team goes back to 1964 in Tokyo gave the opening address and brief history of the games followed by a video of the Beijing Olympics based around the swimming events and its successes. Scott Drawer, head of UK Sport’s Research and Innovation Programmes (a UK government programme), introduced us to one-off bespoke performance solutions under the title‘Function not fashion – the catwalk of excellence’. It’s the hard work with sacrifice and dedication that earns the right to be an Olympian but functional need dictates the demand for technology. Performance opportunities lead to innovation in areas such as performance textiles enabling those fine margins between silver and gold to be met without the constraints of high volumes. Scott introduced us to terms
such as thermal stress and fluid dynamics. Thermal stress has to be dealt with in climate extremes such as heat exhaustion in Beijing and the effect of cold on muscles in the skeleton run of the winter Olympics. Wind tunnels may be used to assess design and performance of materials for the reduction of drag in sports such as cycling and speed skating. The technology then has to be evaluated and measured with the aid of smart textiles and through the process of coaching. Next was Phillip Courtney, adidas, who introduced us to ‘London 2012 the role of adidas as a major sponsor’. Phillip gave us an idea of the scale of providing clothing for the 2012 Olympics including the athletes, torchbearers, apparel to be worn in the Olympic village, volunteers and garments to be given away by the sponsor, to mention only a small part. For the athletes in the 26 Olympic sports the product has to enable an elite performance using next generation fabrics to aid in achieving the impossible and saving that fraction of a second while also considering the wellbeing and comfort of the athlete. The London 2012 Olympics are to be sustainable with adidas not only looking to next generation bio fabrics but packaging, product designs and virtual profiling/prototyping. Jason Rance is head of Aqualab, Speedo’s dedicated research and development group. Jason played an integral role in the development and launch of the Speedo LZR Racer, the ‘world’s best possible and fastest swimsuit’. With a global research and development team and other global
partners such as NASA, Jason talked us through from the development of the Fastskin knitted construction to LZR pulse woven and LZR woven panels which give 24% less resistance in the water than Fastskin also enabling the swimmer to be more efficient in breathing. A video ‘Innovating for speed’ demonstrated to us the speed an Olympic swimmer moves through the water and helped us to appreciate the effect of reducing drag and resistance from an athlete’s view. One of the suits was provided by Speedo for us all to observe both the fabric construction and the close fit when worn. Mike Bartle, president of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (formerly group operations director at Cloverbrook Ltd, UK) kept to the theme of sport but with a different twist - the experience of making replica football shirts and shorts for fashion. The requirement of bright colours with high colour fastness expectations, handle and surface requirements, problems with laddering and snagging of knitted fabrics resulted in the cry of ‘Send for the dyer’ the theme of Mike’s talk. Mike talked about the use of anti-microbial finishes using silver technology, moisture management and shade problems due to different yarns in panels and the mixing of warp and weft panels. This symposium showed those with experience in industry and those yet to join it some of the unique challenges and pressures faced by those who are responsible for creating materials and designs to give elite performance, and support the health and wellbeing of the athlete and others who support the Olympics and sport.
from left to right : Jason Rance, Maggie Stott, Phillip Courtney, Stephen Rubin, Scott Drawer, Janet Best, Mike Bartle textiles 29
SECTION SECTIONNEWS NEWS• • SECTION NEWS • SECTION NEWS • Lahore Section The 2nd International Conference on Textiles and Clothing (ICTC) was held on May 7-8, 2009 at the Pearl Continental Hotel, Lahore, organised by The Textile Institute Lahore Section and the University of Management and Technology (UMT), Lahore, Pakistan. The conference attracted a large number of textile experts, researchers, industrialists and textile students. The theme of the conference was Technical Textiles. Technical Textiles is the most promising area that has attracted government priority to lead Pakistan in to the new realm of the competitive world. The speakers from 7 countries highlighted the importance of ‘Technical Textiles’ for Pakistan. Mian Tariq Mehmood, chairman, All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) was the chief guest at the inaugural session. Dr Hasan Sohaib Murad, rector, University of Management and Technology (UMT), Lahore, M Nusrat Ali Chisti, secretary, The Textile Institute, Lahore Section and Dr Rashid Kausar, pro-rector UMT addressed the inaugural ceremony. The speakers highlighted the significance of the textile sector, particularly technical textiles, for Pakistan. Mr M Nusrat Ali Chishti spoke of the contribution of The Textile Institute to the Pakistan textile industry. The first technical session was chaired by Mr S M Qutub, The Textile Institute, Pakistan. Speakers included Dr Zubair Bandukha (President TIP Karachi), Dr Faheem Udeen (Pakistan),
Mr Asim Ahmed and Miss Faiza Jamil. The second technical session was chaired by Dr Faheem Udeen, University of Management and Technology, Lahore. Papers were presented by B Voncina (Slovenia), M Salehi (Iran), Dr Umer Farooq (UK) and Dr Arshad Mehmood. Dr Tanveer Hussain, National Textile University, Faisalabad chaired the third session in which S Ibrahim (Czech Republic), Noman Haleem (Pakistan), Mushtaq Mangat (Pakistan) and Saad Nauman (Iran) presented their technical papers. Papers were presented by speakers Ms Fariha Arooj (PU Pakistan), Irfan Ahmed Shaikh (Pakistan), Jausovec, B Vonica (Slovenia), Dr Sarwar Rana (Pakistan) and Ibrahim Sayed in the fourth session chaired by Dr Amjid Hussain Delawari, Comsats Institute, Pakistan. The fifth and final session speakers Dr Lubos Hes (Czech Republic), Dr Umer Farooq and Dr Tahir Shah presented their papers. ICTC-2009 is a serious effort in Pakistan to explore business and value addition opportunities in the promising technical textiles sector, remarked by Dr Mirza Ikhtiar Baig, advisor to the Prime Minister on textiles, who was the chief guest of the concluding ceremony. While speaking on the occasion he acknowledged that textiles generated forty percent employment in the country and constituted sixty percent of the GDP. He said that the National Textile Policy was formulated by the government after taking all
stakeholders into confidence but suggestions for improvement were welcome from all quarters. The policy aimed to increase exports and stimulate industrial productivity. He added that the Textile City was being set up with the same purpose and its impact on the industry was being gauged on a daily basis. He also congratulated The Textile Institute/UMT on holding the conference and said that he felt that it was an honor for him to have attended it. Dr Baig went on to say that the ICTC-2009 would serve as a platform for cross-fertilisation of ideas through meaningful interaction of scholars, practitioners and experts already working in this area or who have a stake in this key sector and we look forward to benefiting from the deliberations. Technical textiles will be one of the most prosperous industries in the coming years, he added. Unfortunately, Pakistan is far behind in technical textiles. ICTC-2009 aimed to generate a change for the better by bringing together experts from different parts of the world. Nevertheless, the government is taking up steps to address the key issues in the critical textile sector. Elaborating the steps taken by the government to help the textile industry, he said that the textile sector was tax free for one year. The government was seeking advice from experts and institutions and the co-operation of institutions such as The Textile Institute, and the UMT was essential for the progress of the textile sector. He also promised financial assistance by the government for setting up a Technical Textile Research and Development Center in UMT. He said that the government was considering abolishing all duties on raw materials and friendly countries were being consulted for technology transfer. He added that ensuring access to international markets was also a top priority. The 2nd International Conference on Textile and Clothing (ICTC) 2009 played host to delegates and experts from seven countries of the world who presented their research papers and emphasised the importance of technical textiles for Pakistan. They also urged the government to take steps to develop technical textiles on a priority basis. M. Nusrat Ali Chishti, Honorary Secretary, Lahore Section.
30 textiles · issue 3 · 2009
New Zealand Section To celebrate the United Nations 'Year of Natural Fibre 2009', the New Zealand Section in association with two Australian sections (New South Wales and Southern) convened a conference at the University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand in April this year. Conference papers and posters were in one of two themes: Protein and cellulose fibres - properties, processing, products; Natural fibres in cultural artefacts. Prizes were awarded for student presentations/posters (Douglas Dickinson NZTI Award), and delegates' choice for the Australian natural fibres fashion award.
Although an Australasian conference with most delegates from Australia and New Zealand, delegates from several other countries participated, including the UK, Croatia, Czech Republic, and Bangladesh. This diversity in delegates led to stimulating discussion/conversation and spontaneous national performances (song and dance) at the conference dinner. Commercial examples relevant to natural fibres were displayed. Sponsorship was generous, particularly given the general economic malaise evident during the past year or two. Major sponsors: AgResearch; The Textile Institute (New South Wales); The
Textile Institute (New Zealand); University of Otago.
Left: TI (NSW) Chair Mr Roland Rangeley with Dean Ranking winner of delegates choice prize. Right: TI (NZ) Chair Neil Tucker with Frances Daroux, winner of student presentations,
Proceedings are available for purchase on CD via the conference website www.otago.ac.nz/textiles/naturalfibres09/
Swiss Section The Swiss Section AGM was held on 29 April 2009. For a full report please go to www.textileinstitute.org/swisssection.asp
Congratulations to the following members who have been awarded qualifications following the June 2008 meeting of the Diplomas Committee.
Mr Dennis Arthur Dobson LTI
Fellowship and Chartered Membership (CText FTI) Mr P W Butcher Embroidery Engineer NuVasive Inc California, USA
Dr K C Ho Director, Research & Development The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles Kowloon, Hong Kong
Mr J C McCosker Quality Assurance Manager Best & Less Retail Stores NSW, Australia
Mr M A Omar
Mr S Dwivedi Global Application Manager Akzo Nobel CR B.V. Sassenheim, The Netherlands
Mr C S K Fonseka MAS Linea Aqua Pvt Ltd Kapugoda, Sri Lanka
Mr A Khatri Lecturer Mehran University of Engineering & Technology Jamshoro, Pakistan
Mr K H Lin Marketing Director Adwin Piece Goods Co. Ltd. Kowloon, Hong Kong
Chief Executive Officer Brandix Lanka Ltd Colombo, Sri Lanka
Mr F M Manosa
Mr A B Weber
Ms M Mihiliasa
Sales Director Filament Oerlikon Heberlein Temco Wattwil Inc Wattwil, Switzerland
Associateship and Chartered Membership (CText ATI) Mr K D Astley Quality Manager Cavalier Carpets Ltd Blackburn, UK
Mr C M Chang General Manager Entex Enterprises (China) Ltd Hong Kong
Technician, Teacher Barcelona, Spain IASI Branch Manager SC Sofiaman Impex SRL Judetul Neamt, Romania
Mrs P A Owiti Postgraduate Student University of Huddersfield Huddersfield, UK
Mr S K Rathnasuriya Principal Trainer/Consultant P.M.K. Management Consultancy Services Kadawatha, Sri Lanka
Ms U D Samarakone Senior Training Executive Brandix College of Clothing Technology Rathmalana, Sri Lanka
The Textile Institute announces the passing of Mr Dennis Dobson LTI on 27 May, 2009 in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, at the age of 87 years. Mr Dobson was a member of The Textile Institute from 1975 until after he retired, being awarded the LTI in 1983. He was an active member of the Eastern Cape Section of The Textile Institute in Port Elizabeth until the end of 1998. He completed his schooling at Wiggeston High School in Leicester, UK in 1937 and obtained a diploma in textiles at the Leicester College of Textiles in 1953. He worked for Wildt Mellor-Bromley knitting machine manufacturers from June 1937 to June 1954, where he also did his apprenticeship as a textile engineer. He then emigrated to South Africa where he worked in various textile companies as knitting manager, technical director and service engineer. In 1974 he joined the South African Wool Textile Research Institute (SAWTRI) of the CSIR where he was involved in various research projects related to knitting until he retired in 1985, being co-author of a number of technical reports and publications. After this he continued in a consultancy capacity until well in his 70s. Dennis was a practical man and highly respected for his expertise in, and thorough hands-on knowledge of, knitting machines and their engineering construction and principles of operation. He was the classical â€˜English gentlemanâ€™, always courteous and polite to everyone, impeccably dressed in his suit and tie until the end of his life. He was well liked by all. He leaves his wife, Hilda, to whom he was married for six years, and an extended family in Port Elizabeth, as well as a retired son and daughter with 3 grandchildren in the UK from a previous marriage. Note: Mr Dobson was also a member of the Free Masons from 1975 to 1995. Lawrence Hunter CText FTI
Robert Beech CText FTI I first met Bob Beech in the later stages of his career. We were both involved as experts in the long-running patent litigation on double-heater, false-twist texturing for set yarns. The technology had become very profitable after the development of Crimplene polyester yarns. We were working for the successors to the two investors, Stoddart and Seem, who had infringement actions against major companies. Although I wrote many affidavits, it was Bob who gave evidence in person in the trial in Florida, USA. His clear presentation of the technology convinced a jury, but the decision was reversed on appeal on a technicality (the patent attorney had omitted to include disclosure of a prior patent, which was mentioned in a co-pending application). Bob trained as a pilot before studying maths, physics and chemistry at London University, UK. In addition to a time with Combined Optical Industries in Slough, Bob had an industrial career with a textile manufacturer and a machinery maker. He was Chief Chemist and Development Officer for Fine Spinners and Doublers of Bollington, Cheshire, in the laboratory founded by that first great textile scientist, Lawrence Balls. He introduced false-twist texturing to the company, which led
him to work for 14 years for Ernest Scragg & Sons of Macclesfield, once one of the major manufacturers of texturing machinery. During Bob’s time in industry, he was granted patents on moulding of optical lenses, textile finishing, thread guides and tensioning arrangements for textile machines. He became an independent consultant in 1977, which is when I met him. When a vacancy came up, Robert Beech was appointed a Lecturer in the Textiles Department of the University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology (UMIST). Bob was an excellent teacher, who cared greatly for his students. After I retired he took on another task. We had started a weekly seminar given to the whole department by leaders from all branches of the textile industry, from company chairmen to trade union officials. Bob’s contacts through the industry enabled him to carry on with the organisation of the seminars with considerable success. During his time as an academic he published extensively. Bob joined The Textile Institute in 1953, became an associate and chartered member in 1955 and fellow in 1976. He was an extremely active member. He served on Council and numerous committees. He was a Deputy Editor of the Journal of The Textile Institute for several years; but his most challenging task was his time as Chairman of the Committee producing Textile Terms and Definitions and acting as technical editor of the 8th edition (1986) of this standard reference book. In both professional and personal matters, helpfulness was one of Bob Beech’s characteristic qualities. Nothing was too much trouble and he responded to any request with great good humour. Bob’s support of the Institute continued after he retired. Stephanie Dick writes that he “always offered help and support to the Institute’s information department, myself and any member that needed assistance. He never made me feel as if I was taking up his time and was a pleasure to speak with.” Bob was also active in the life of Bollington, the village in Cheshire where he lived. Googling shows that he acted as administrator of the box office of the Bollington Festival. In a comment on the BBC 4 website, he notes the difference between the accents of Bollington and Sutton, seven miles south. Bob died aged 65 in June, six years after the death of his wife, Joan. He is survived by his daughters, Janet and Rhelda, sons, Stephen and Robin, and grandchildren. John W S Hearle CText FTI
Prof D P Veldsman Prof Daniël (Danie) Petrus Veldsman MSc (Maths), MSc (Chem), DSc passed away in Port Elizabeth, South Africa on 10 June, 2009 at the age of 84. Danie Veldsman had a long and illustrious career in textile research and was well known internationally. He joined the South African Wool Textile Research Institute (SAWTRI), of the South African Council for Scientific and Industrial Research (CSIR), at its inception in 1951 where he spent eight years undertaking pioneering research on wool and mohair, before joining the Industrial Development Corporation as a textile consultant in 1959 after which he served as Research Manager at a wool worsted mill. He rejoined SAWTRI as Director of Research in 1963, a position he held until 1979 when he resigned to become Director of the Port Elizabeth Technikon, a position he held until he retired.
32 textiles · issue 3 · 2009
During his 16 years as Director, he not only extended the activities of SAWTRI to include cotton research and research on man-made natural fibre blends but also established a clothing technology section at the Institute. He was instrumental in the establishment of degree and diploma courses in textiles science and technology at the University of Port Elizabeth, now the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University, and was appointed Professor Extraordinaire and occupied the Philip Frame Chair and Head of the Department of Textile Science at the university from 1967 until he retired. During his career, he published and presented at national and international conferences a number of technical and scientific papers. Danie, who received his CText FTI in 1971, was an active member of The Textile Institute during the 1970s, serving on the Council of The Textile Institute and representing the Council on the South African Textile Advisory Committee (SATAC) to The Textile Institute of which he was also a Chairman. He played a leading role in establishing the Eastern Cape Section of The Textile Institute in 1972 which is still active today. He served on numerous national and international committees related to textiles and textile science and was also the recipient of various awards in recognition for distinguished services to the textile industry. He served as Chairman of the 6th Quinquennial International Wool Research Conference held in Pretoria, South Africa in 1980. Danie Veldsman will be remembered for his lifelong passion for, and commitment to, textile research, training and higher education and for his strong and dynamic leadership. He was a family man and leaves his wife, Christine, to whom he was married for almost 60 years, five children, twelve grandchildren and two great grandchildren. Lawrence Hunter CText FTI
Licentiateship grade of membership. He was a lecturer under the leadership of J V A Long who retired in 1971. David was then appointed head of the School of Footwear, at what was by then known as South Fields College, until his retirement in 1981. He started shoemaking courses in Derby, Mansfield and Hinckley Colleges. Following his retirement he and his wife trained as advisers at the Citizens Advice Bureau in Leicester and spent the next 25 years together in this worthwhile job. It was David Shuttleworth’s initiative that helped to create the international reputation of the School of Footwear at Leicester College, a tradition which continues to this day. Students continue to come to the School from all over the world, as Leicester remains an important centre for the designing, specifying, sourcing, importing and distribution of footwear. Roger T Beeby CText FTI
Graham Lancaster CText ATI It is with great regret that we announce that Mr Graham Lancaster has passed away. Mr Lancaster joined The Textile Institute in 1953. Mr Lancaster was awarded the CText ATI in 1960; he was a highly valued and long standing member and will be greatly missed by everyone who knew him.
Robert Tinsley Ashworth LTI It is with deep regret that we announce that Mr Robert Tinsley Ashworth passed away in February. Mr Ashworth joined The Textile Institute in the 1960’s. He was awarded the LTI of which he was immensely proud. Keen to keep abreast with his textile interests his support was greatly appreciated. Mr Ashworth will truly be missed by all who knew him.
David Shuttleworth FCFI
R A Marshall MacKinnon
David Shuttleworth, a former head of the International School of Footwear at Leicester College, died on June 8 2009 just 3 days short of his 93rd birthday. David was a Fellow of the British Boot and Shoe Institution(FBSI) and an active member of the Leicester branch. The BBSI was absorbed into the Clothing and Footwear Institute and then into The Textile Institute. He was a Fellow of the Clothing Institute and was awarded the Lemkin Medal by the CFI for services to Footwear Education. David was born in Lancashire in 1916 and first served as an apprentice in the Blackburn Cooperative Shoe Factory. Then during the War years, 1939–45, David was an RAF Instructor, at what was then known as the Leicester Colleges of Art and Technology. He taught shoe repairing skills to service personnel. In 1947 he joined the full time staff of the School of Footwear, where he met his wife Freda, who was the Secretary to J V A Long the Head of the School of Footwear. He will be remembered with affection by ex students all over the world for his good humour and meticulous and comprehensive lecture notes on all aspects of shoemaking, and for his great skill as a teacher of hand sewn shoemaking. He organised the preparations for the BBSI Graduateship examinations at the college. These formed the essential career pathway for ambitious young footwear students leading to Associateship of the BBSI, the equivalent of TI’s
CText ATI Marshall was educated at Wallace High School, Lisburn and Queens University, Belfast, Northern Ireland, from where he graduated with a Bachelor of Science and was awarded Honours in Chemistry in 1949. He then joined William Barbour & Sons, Hilden, Northern Ireland, as a research chemist. In 1952 he graduated with a Master of Science degree and became an Associate of the Royal Institute of Chemistry. Marshall subsequently joined McCleery L`Amie as Dyehouse Manager and as Technical Director was responsible for the establishment of a factory to produce acrylic high bulk hand-knitting and machine-knitting yarns. His collaboration with the Linen Industry Research Association on the development of the ATOZ principle resulted in a joint Queens Award to Industry for both organisations. When the McCleery L`Amie Group was taken over by the Lamont Group Marshall became responsible for technology for a number of mills throughout Northern Ireland, a role he filled until his retirement in 1992.