The UK's No.1 sewing mag
PLACES! L Sew a summer
capsule collection L Figure-flattering swimwear to try L Bright and bold fabric picks
RUFFLE SLEEVES MASTERCLASS
GENIUS HEXIE BAG AND PURSE
working with chiffon and silk
Behind the scenes:
PATTERNS ISSUE 42 UK Â£5.99
Inspire Imagine Create
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SWEET TREATS EMBROIDERY 23/06/2017 15:02
See Di's version on page 23
â€Ś to issue 42 of Love Sewing
arm weather is so divisive isn't it? Some people love to run to the cool comfort of the sewing room and others ditch their machines in favour of being out and about in the sunshine. I try to strike an even balance between whipping up sun-appropriate clothing (read that as MORE DRESSES) and going on adventures in my me-mades. Recently I spent a lovely weekend in the garden working on a new embroidery hoop. With no technology in reach and the quiet sounds of children playing down the street, my cat rustling in the bushes and my partner pottering about indoors I found the whole experience very therapeutic. Being an editor is fabulous fun but it comes with a lot of questions, a lot of emails and a lot of typing; stepping away into sewing is my mental retreat.
Let it Bee! My latest hoop project
Even if I don't get a traditional sand and sun holiday this year I know I can recharge myself in other ways. In late July I'll be attending Alison Smith MBE's prestigious school of sewing for a bridal sewing workshop. It's a wonderful chance to indulge in couture techniques with like-minded sewists, and of course learn from a master seamstress. Also, a friend's wedding is just around the corner so I'll need to start my outfit soon. The idea is to pair a vintage silhouette with an abstract painted sateen from Minerva Crafts (www. minervacrafts.com) but I can't quite decide on the design. I'm tempted to take a sewing stay-cation where I do nothing but sew during the day, and enjoy garden-based G&Ts in the evenings (#ginstagram). If I sound a little holiday obsessed, I simply can't help it: this issue has me so excited. Our cover gift would make an excellent beachy kaftan
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Denise ART EDITOR Denise is passionate about design, sewing, good food and fluffy cats. She has a keen eye for detail and knows how to work the latest trends into your craft room. See more at www.instagram.com/ by_denisej
top, a charming nautical dress for exploring the English coast and a chic maxi dress for dinner out at the nearest taverna on your European travels. Our guest reader this month is Di Kendall, whose print-clash version (shown above and on page 23) shows off relaxed summer dressing at its finest, and a beautiful tan! Best book myself some time off asap.
Time to brush up on my couture skil ls
Bethany DEPUTY EDITOR Bethany loves nothing more than indulging in a quiet spot of cross stitch in her free time. Sheâ€™s also the creator of the Make It Betty 'Sketch it Stitch it' notebooks available at www.makeitbetty. etsy.com
Jenny EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Avid knitter Jenny has recently turned her skills to dressmaking with amazing results. She enjoys making everyday stylish clothes and more challenging cosplay creations. Follow her adventures at www. thegeekyknitter.co.uk
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Find us online
MISSES’ TUNIC AND DRESSES: Semi-fitted, tunic and dress have A-line TUNIQUE ET bust ROBES POUR JEUNE FEMME: Tunique trapèze, variations. A, B: Ribbon darts, neckline, and sleeve à pinces de poitrine, variations d’encolure trim. A, B, C: Side semi-ajustée slits. A: A, B, C: Contrast bands C: et de manche. Fentes Purchased latérales. cording. A: Bandes contrastantes. A, B: Galon de ruban. D: Purchased Perles beads. C, D: Stitched achetés. C, D: Ourlet C: Cordon acheté. C: hem. piqué. TÚNICA Y VESTIDOS PARA JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: entallada, Túnica con pinzas línea A, semien el busto, variaciones Ribete de cinta. A, de escote y de manga. B, C: Aberturas laterales. A, Cordón comprado. D: A: Bandas contrastantes. B: Combinations: Y(XS-S-M), Cuentas compradas. C: C, D: Dobladillo SUGGESTED FABRICS: ZZ(L-XL-XXL) cosido a máquina. Cotton Blends, Sateen, Séries/Combinaciones: Dobby, Linen. Y(TP/XP-P/P-M/M), ZZ(G/G-TG/XG-T TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: TG/XXG) SIZES Cotonnade, Satin XS de coton, S TELAS Façonné, SUGERIDAS: M Toile de lin. L Mezclas de algodón, XL XXL 4-6 Satén de algodón, Labrada, 8-10 TAILLES/TALLAS TP/XP 12-14 16-18 20-22 A 45"*** Lino. P/P 24-26 1∫ M/M 1∫ G/G TG/XG TTG/XXG 1∫ 1π 60"*** 4-6 2 8-10 2∂ Yds. A 115cm*** 1∑ 12-14 1∑ 16-18 20-22 24-26 1∑ CONTRAST A - 45", 1∞ 1.50 1≥ 1.50 1≥ 60"*** 1.50 " 1.80 150cm*** 1.90 FUSIBLE INTERFACING - 1≤ yds. 2.00 m 1.30 1.30 1.30 A, C CONTRASTE A - 115, 1.40 1.60 1.60 m 18", 20" - 1 yd. 150cm*** ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLA - 1.20m B 45"*** NT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIV 2≥ 2≥ 46, 51cm - 1.00m 2π 2π A A, C 60"*** 2π 2π Yds. B 115cm*** 1π 1π 2 FUSIBLE INTERFACING 2∂ 2.60 2π 2.60 2π 2.70 B " 2.70 150cm*** 2.70 2.70 m 1.80 18", 20" - 1∑ yds. 1.90 ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLA1.80 2.00 2.70 C 45"*** NT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIV 2.70 m 2≥ 2π 46, 51cm 2π 3∞ A 60"*** B 3∞ 3∞ Yds. C 115cm*** - 1.30m 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ D 45"*** 2∞ 2.60 2∫ 2.70 2∫ 3∞ 2.70 " 3∞ 3.20 150cm*** 3∫ 3.20 3∫ 3.20 m 2.00 60"*** 3∫ 2.00 4 2∞ 2.00 Yds. D 115cm*** 2π 2.30 3∫ 2.40 FUSIBLE INTERFACING 3∫ 2.40 m 3.20 3∫ 3.20 3∫ 3.40 D " 3.40 150cm*** 3.40 3.70 m 2.30 18", 20" - 1∂ yds. 3.40 ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLA2.70 3.40 3.40 NOTIONS: A, B: ∑" NT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIV 3.40 m or ∫" Ribbons: 6∞ yds. 46, 51cm for A, 4≥ yds. for B. Cording. D: Purchased AD C: 1≤ yds. MERCERIE: - 1.10m Beads. A, B: Rubans de 1cm ou 1.5cm: 6.00m pour 1.20m de Cordon. D: A, 4.40m pour B. C: Perles MERCERÍA: A, B: Cintas achetées. de 1cm o 1.5cm: 6.00m 1.20m de cordón. D: para A, 4.40m para Cuentas B. C: MESURES DU VÊTEMENT compradas. FINI/MEDIDAS DE Mesure à la poitrine/Contorn LA PRENDA ACABADA 45 49 o de busto 53 Ins. A, B, C, D 90 104 Mesure aux hanches/Contor95 115 125 50∞ 135 cm no de caderas B, C, D 104 109 118 Largeur à l’ourlet/Ancho 128 138 149 cm inferior D 147 152 161 Longueur - dos, votre 171 182 192 cm nuque à l’ourlet/Largo A de espalda desde la 81 nuca 83 84 B 85 87 88 109 cm 110 112 C 113 115 116 cm 95 97 98 D 99 100 102 cm 143 145 146 147 149 150 cm ***Avec
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at bustline A, B, C, D 35∞ 37∞ 41 Measurement at hipline B, C, D 41 43 46∞ Width, lower edge D 58 60 63∞ Back length from base of neck A 32 32∞ 33 B 43 43∞ 44 C 37∞ 38 38∞ D 56∞ 57 57∞
*With Nap **Without
Nap ***With or Without
" " " "
34∞ 45∞ 40 59
34 45 39∞ 58∞
33∞ 44∞ 39 58
*Avec Sens **Sans Sens
ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo **Sin Pelillo
80 PATTERN READING BASICS & FITTING ESSENTIALS 83 Claim your FREE dress pattern 87 Readers’ makes 88 This month’s exclusive reader offer 90 Skill building with Wendy Gardiner 94 Couture Sewing with Alison Smith MBE 96 COMING NEXT ISSUE Receive a £45 sewing pattern voucher from The Sewing Belle when you subscribe – see page 26 for further info
18 Your free McCall’s pattern gift – breezy summer tunic pack 30 Summer on a plate placemats 47 Sheer genius cover up 56 Just wing it embroidered clock 61 A case for pencils skirt 70 Patch perfect pouch & purse 78 Enter your pin teacup pincushion 84 Check please frill cuff dress 98 What’s the scoop ice cream treats ***Con o Sin Pelillo
Copyright© 2016, The McCall
D Pattern Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, All Rights Reserved. Printed in Sold for individual home U.S.A. Trademarks Reg. U.S. use only and not Pat. & TM Off. Marca Registrada Reserve à un usage personnel. for commercial or manufacturing purposes. www.mccallpattern. Utilisation commerciale com ou industrielle strictement interdite.
PROJECTS Size Y/ZZ Taille (6-26 : XS-XXL) Talla
C D B A
BODY MEASUREMENT S/MESURES/MEDIDAS SIZES DEL CUERPO XS S M L XL 4-6 XXL 8-10 12-14 Bust 16-18 20-22 29∞-30∞ 31∞-32∞ 24-26 34-36 Waist 38-40 42-44 22-23 46-48 Ins. 24-25 26∞-28 Hip 30-32 34-37 39-41∞ Ins. 31∞-32∞ 33∞-34∞ 36-38 Back Waist Length 40-42 44-46 15≤-15∞ 15≥-16 48-50 Ins. 16≤-16∞ 16≥-17 TAILLES/TALLAS 17≤-17∞ 17≥-18 Ins. TP/XP P/P M/M G/G TG/XG TTG/XXG 4-6 8-10 12-14 16-18 20-22 75-77 24-26 80-83 87-92 97-102 107-112 117-122 56-58 61-64 cm 67-71 76-81 87-94 80-83 85-88 92-97 102-107 112-117 99-105 cm espalda 122-127 cm 39-39.5 40-40.5 41.5-42 42.5-43 44-44.5 45-45.5 cm
Poitrine/Busto Taille/Cintura Hanches/Caderas Longueur dos/Largo
Welcome Love Sewing loves Upcycling Competition winners 15 minutes Carlos Correa Sewing room spruce Trim & tricks The Cocktail Hour Sew-along Reader review: McCall’s 7408 Fabric focus: Graphic fanatic SUBSCRIBE TODAY The dressmaker’s diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie Fabric focus: Floating on air Pattern picks: 20% off Simplicity Patterns! Shop of the month A brief history of Pyrm Shore thing: DIY swimwear Jade Earley the girl with the bright red hair This month I’m making Sewing workshops In the good books Swatch selector with Kerry Green Machine reviews DISCOUNTS & GIVEAWAYS Behind the seams with Wendy Ward Shop local and claim your free gift 20% off at Threadhead Fabrics
77 74 60 65 72 50 52 55 58 38 40 44 45 35 36 32 26 28 3 6 9 10 12 14 16 23 24
REGULARS AND FEATURES
The wear-anywhere dress, tunic & top
Inside this ISSUE
Editor Amy Thomas Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Jenny Riley Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Senior Art Editor Denise Johnson Art Editor Simon Kay Junior Art Editor Sarah Edmondson Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Ward, Jade Earley, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green
Publishing & Advertising Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Senior Editor Kate Heppell Managing Art Editor Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Assistant Anna Olejarz Ecommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson
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Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG email@example.com www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961
Tel: 01858 438899 firstname.lastname@example.org Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Craft Media Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.
Four styles to try plus bonus hack ideas !
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84 Practical Publishing International Ltd is a member of the PPA
CONTRIBUTORS Chinelo Bally
Sewing Bee contestant Chinelo is our freehand sewing guru this month with her chiffon cover-up project. We love her top tips for mini hems – read more on page 47.
With her new book, Sewing Bee contestant Jenni is showing sewing who’s boss with a range of clever projects that work for your home and wardrobe. On page 78 she shares her teacup pincushion tutorial.
Fiona is the creative brain behind www.sewgirl.co.uk. As a teacher and pattern maker, she loves all things dressmaking. Find her fun frill cuff dress and top on page 84.
Read our wonderful interview with Vogue Patterns designer Carlos on page 10. He’s spilling the beans on his favourite parts of the job. We’re so jealous!
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The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month
Abakhan branches out Where: 112 George St, Altrincham WA14 1RF Find out more about the launch and the busy programme of demonstrations at www.abakhan.co.uk Abakhan has opened its ninth UK store with a brand-new two-storey shop in Altrincham, Greater Manchester. The fabric, yarn and crafting retailer unveiled the huge range of dressmaking, soft furnishing and quilting fabric, as well as haberdashery and yarn at the new location. Marketing Director Beth Abakhan said that the company was looking forward to expanding on its existing stores, which include sites in north Wales, Liverpool and central Manchester. Beth said that Altrincham stood out thanks to its "really vibrant high street… There’s already a real buzz around the opening of this store, we couldn’t be more excited!”
CROSS THE LINE Price: $18 (approximately £14) for the printed version and $14 (approximately £11) for the PDF Sizes: 12-28 and cup sizes C-H Find the full range of Cashmerette printed and PDF patterns at shop.cashmerette.com Make a summer top that can stand the heat with the new Webster pattern from Cashmerette. Featuring a hi-low hem and playful crossover back, this elegant design can be made as either a tunic or a knee-length dress in floaty lightweight wovens. It’s so dreamy we can see it becoming a wardrobe staple!
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That's a wrap Special Price: Paper pattern £11.25 Sizes: 8-24 Available at Sew Direct We love this breezy maxi dress so much we convinced the Sew Direct team to give you 25% off the RRP. Make it in cool challis with fluted sleeves or sew a lightweight jersey version with a tea-length hem. *Save 25% on Vogue 9251 when you call 0344 880 1263, quoting LOVESEWING42 before 17th August 2017. P&P charges still apply. Offer not available online.
25% on Vogue 9251
HOP TO IT
Dates: Saturday 30th September 10am to 4pm Location: Eagle Hall, Lincolnshire LN6 9HZ Price: £75 including all materials, equipment, mid-morning cake and a healthy lunch! Find out more details at www.needleand threadworkshops.com From a wooden summerhouse studio at the bottom of her garden, textile artist Katy Livings (Stitch & Sprig) creates magical quality dolls and rabbits, with beautiful attention to detail. Join Katy on a special class at Needle & Thread Workshops in Lincolnshire where she will work with you to construct your own doll or rabbit. A special workshop day not to be missed!
Price: $8 (approximately £6.25) Shop online at www.stitchedmodern.com Add these adorable bamboo buttons to your handmade creations. Holes around the outside of the buttons can be stitched in various patterns to match your style. They measure 3⁄4" in diameter and can be stitched using sewing thread or embroidery floss!
Price: PDF £9.50, kit £17 Available from www.cocowawacrafts.com The latest CocoWawa pattern release is the perfect treat for any little ladies in your life. The Mini Marshmallow Dress is designed for girls age 3 to 12 and is a mini replica of the women’s dress pattern by the same name. Creator Ana Valls explained, “After the success of the women’s pattern, several people contacted me interested in a version for kids!” You’ll find the pattern available online in English and Spanish alongside its big sister – which is now available as a printed pattern!
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What’s the bu zz?
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Find out more at www.thegreatbritish sewingbeelive.com Comedian, writer and TV personality Jenny Éclair has been announced as the host of this September’s The Great British Sewing Bee Live. The UK’s most exciting new dressmaking and sewing event takes place at ExCel London 21st – 24th September 2017. It features a 1,200-seat Super Theatre where Jenny will host two live shows a day featuring Sewing Bee judges Patrick Grant and Esme Young and contestants from past series.
Making shapes BALENCIAGA: SHAPING FASHION
Where: Victoria and Albert Museum, London When: Until Sunday, 18th February 2018 Tickets: £12. Free to members. Concessions apply. Further info can be found at www.vam.ac.uk and advance booking is recommended. Examining the work and legacy of influential Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga, this exhibition features over 100 pieces crafted by ‘the master’ of couture, his protégées and contemporary fashion designers working in the same innovative tradition. The exhibition marks the centenary of the opening of Balenciaga’s first fashion house in San Sebastian and the 80th anniversary of the opening of his famous fashion house in Paris.
STITCH The cross stitch and embroidery we’re loving this month
Bethany Deputy Editor
WE’RE ALL EARS!
I’ve gone for an animal theme in this month’s column and I couldn’t miss out the amazing new animal ear embroidery hoops from DMC. How cute are these? There are 10cm wooden cat, bear and bunny ear options to have a play around with and you can use them however you want. The temptation to stitch an adorable little face is obviously there but you could instead fill the hoop with a scrap of your favourite fabric to brighten up your wall. Available for £13.99 each from www.lakesideneedlecraft.co.uk
Practise your cross stitch or inspire the kids in the summer holiday to get creative with these teeny tiny wooden animal figures. Each of the kits comes with yarn and a needle, and all you need to do is come up with a jumper design to stitch onto your new animal pal. Perfect for stitching on the go. £13.90 from www.thismodernlife.co.uk
WATCH THE BIRDIE
Did you see the stunning peacock embroidery hoop in issue 41? If you’re a fan of Chloe Redfern's fabulous embroidery, then you need to take a look through her instant PDF patterns. We love this blue tit design, and the ninepage pattern teaches you everything you need to know to get started and master all the different stitches. Download yours for £4.80 from www.chloeredfernartist.etsy.com
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Alison Webb wins ÂŁ100 of sewing accessories from Korbond plus a workshop with Jenniffer Taylor for her clever use of shredded fabric!
Lorna Richardson also wins a sewing accessory bundle from Korbond in a retro sewing basket for her clever curtain-tocoat transformation
As much as we love buying new fabric it can turn into a costly addiction so we also love to use materials we can salvage from around the home to sew things too. Earlier this year The Sewing Directory teamed up with upcycler extraordinaire Jenniffer Taylor to challenge you to sew something using household textiles. Love Sewing Editor Amy was proud to join the team as a judge for the competition and can now announce the winners:
Gemma Rae wins a sewing accessory bundle from Korbond in a retro sewing basket for her picturesque cushion
Denise Thomas is joining the Love Sewing club with a free subscription, for her stunning beaded lace confirmation dress
Vicky Myers wowed us with her denim dress refashion and wins a Sew Simple pattern bundle
The following runners up will all receive a copy of Jenniffer's new book, Girl With a Sewing Machine Andrew Myles, Anne Zarb, Jolene Gelder, Jane Tuck, Amanda Gunney, Jane Rance, Natalie Keaney, Natalie Hazelton, Stephanie Hughes and Helen Wright
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15 MINUTES WITH...
By design CARLOS CORREA We chatted to Carlos about his role as a Vogue Patterns designer, creative passion and what's it's like to be on camera
simultaneously. I'm responsible for the design and development of the various styles, and work with many teams to set the production processes and finalise those fabulous photo samples. Fortunately everyone here is like family. We all aspire to put together the best product possible. What part of your work day-to-day do you find the most enjoyable? Is it planning the year? Perhaps seeing the finished samples? I love collaborating with the patternmakers, dressmakers and the folks in marketing and merchandising; all of it really. Checking new patterns made up in muslin for the first time gives me a lot of satisfaction.
What makes me happy is to sew for the women in my life
tep inside the world of Carlos Correa, pattern designer and fashion enthusiast. In his role as Vogue Patterns designer, Carlos is surrounded by a fabulous world of sketches, toiles and gorgeous finished garments. We asked him to spill the beans on what it's like to work with such a talented team. Our readers are big fans of The McCall Pattern Company and would love to hear more about what it’s like to be a designer for the illustrious Vogue patterns. It's very enjoyable but very demanding! On any given day I’m working on three collections
I’m sure they all hold a special place but do you have a favourite design from the spring collection? I'd say V9243 - it's a Vogue Easy Options top. I love all those beautiful sleeves! It features princess seams for a great fit and finishes with bias tape. Choosing which sleeve variation to make is the fun part of this pattern. It's available in sizes 6-14 and 14-22. We’d love to know when fashion started to play an important role in your life? Did you grow up idolizing any fashion greats? My interest in clothes and fashion began at a very young age. My mother and four sisters all sewed and they loved high fashion. Classic 1950s' haute couture designs by Dior, Givenchy and especially Balenciaga were a huge source of inspiration to me.
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Try Carlos's pattern pick from the new season collection! Vogue 9243 is available at www.sewdirect.com priced £15
Carlos Correa Carlos joined The McCall Pattern Company in 1992 and as a designer for Vogue oversees hundreds of designs that eventually become available for you to buy and make at home. Find the latest Vogue Patterns designs on the Sew Direct website www.sewdirect.com
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
We recommend visiting the McCall Pattern Company Facebook page where you can watch videos of Carlos in action, showing off the garments in fine detail. Visit www.facebook.com/ mccallpatterncompany to watch live, hear all the news and share your latest make with the team
You’re clearly a skilled designer but how often do you get to sew for yourself, if at all? I can sew as well as make patterns but other than alterations I seldom sew my own clothes. What makes me happy is to sew for the women in my life. I’ve made prom dresses for all my nieces. Finally, the Facebook Live videos you’ve been taking part in are wonderful. Were you nervous being on camera? Thank you. Very nervous indeed! The amazing team of people behind the scenes helped me get over my nerves.
Carlos looks to couture fashion for inspiration
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Chic and classy
The strong magnets inside these polymer pincushions will help to keep your workspace tidy, though best keep some real treats to hand so you aren’t tempted to taste them! Available in a variety of colours. £9.99 per doughnut, www.ohsewquaint. etsy.com
Bring an extra touch of style to your sewing room with this elegant mannequin pincushion. Why not use it to drape some gorgeous ribbon over too? £13.75, www. abakhan.co.uk
PERFECT PINCUSHIONS Keep your pins safe with these fun pincushions to make or buy
Sew your own adorable birds with this Ellie Mae Designs pattern (K0237). It includes four different feathered friends with pretty contrasting panels – the perfect way to use up fabric scraps in a quick evening make. Paper pattern £8.99, www.sewdirect.com
Home sweet home
Crafting supplies from Cath Kidston never fail to make us smile with their cute designs and soft colour palettes. This novelty house pincushion will make you smile every time you use it! £8, www.cathkidston.com
A traditional twist on the popular pineapple, this carefully quilted pincushion will fit neatly into your sewing box, or look great left on your sewing table between projects. £8.49, www.crafterscompanion.co.uk
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TRIM & Turquoise, white and blue rickrack, £1.40 per metre, www.abakhan.co.uk
Neon braid fedora, £20, www.accessorize.com
Mystic tunic dress, £45, www.east.co.uk
Tassels, £1.10 each, www.abakhan.co.uk
TRICKS Add a playful touch to your summer wardrobe with our pick of the cutest tassels and trim around
Abigail Ahern cushion, £45, www.debenhams.com
Sonny embroidered-slogan sunhat, £17, www.joanieclothing.com
TRIM Pink, cerise and white rickrack, £1.40 per metre, www.abakhan.co.uk
TASSELS Tassel swimsuit, £35, www.jdwilliams.co.uk
Bright pink rickrack, 44p per metre, www.abakhan.co.uk Laurie tassel jute clutch bag, £49.95, www.whitestuff.com
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Navy pompom kaftan, £22, www.mandco.com
Matthew Williamson cushion, £25, www.debenhams.com
Aqua mini pompom trim, £1.20 per metre, www.the village haberdashery.co.uk
Yellow large pompom trim, £1.50 per metre, www.fabricgodmother.co.uk
Multicoloured pompom trim, £8.50 per metre, www.pompomandtwiddle.com
Floozie by Frost French 'Love' bag, £25, www.debenhams.com
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The cocktail hour
Follow the fabulous blogger tour, chat with your favourite sewists and see pattern reviews at www.thefoldline.com/blog
Have you joined in with The Cocktail Hour yet? It’s a fun opportunity for sewists to come together and ‘sip and sew’! We’re thrilled to have Rachel and Kate from The Fold Line to share all the news from the fun blogger tour. So, who’s been sewing some DIY glamour this month?
Jen Sanders Gingerella
Jen made a very glamorous version of Vogue 1537 from a blue and gold silk brocade, which she lined with gold faux silk habutai. Jen also underlined the brocade to give it more support. The pattern comes with the option to make a shift dress with French darts and a side zip opening. There is also the option to make a co-ordinating coat with button front, princess seams and patch pockets.
THE COCKTAIL HOUR
n March, The McCall Pattern Company in the UK chose 20 of its most popular Vogue patterns perfect for wearing while sipping cocktails. A contribution from every pattern sold in the inspirational edit will go towards supporting The Eve Appeal charity. Find out how to take part, plus read all about upcoming events at www.sewdirect.com
Nina was immediately drawn to making Vogue Patterns 1484 for The Cocktail Hour because of the organza yoke, pointed collar and shaped hemline. The dress uses four different fabric types – two for the contrasting body panels, one for the collar and sleeve bindings, and lastly organza for the upper bodice and sleeves.
After making a toile to get a good fit, Jen made a few adjustments including cinching in at the waist to make the shift dress more fitted and pinching some length out of the back. She also repositioned and resized the straps across the back of the dress. A perfect cocktail dress to #sipandsew! www.gingerella.wordpress. com/2017/06/09/cocktail-hourvogue-1537-giveaway/
With so much fabric to co-ordinate, Nina had to spend quite a bit of time choosing. The tropical fabric that caught her eye was a printed cotton by John Kaldor, which she then used to match co-ordinating solids for the other dress panels, binding and collar. After making a toile, Nina made some fitting adjustments and took her time over inserting the zip into the organza. The result is a fabulous cocktail dress, which has been colour co-ordinated to perfection! www.thumblenina.wordpress. com/2017/05/26/cocktail-hourvogue-1484-and-a-giveaway/
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PACK VIEW D
Keep your options open with this great pattern pack. Mix and match the lengths, sleeves and vents to create a custom look that will take you anywhere. Don’t forget McCall’s patterns come with foolproof step-by-step guides to make sewing a breeze
This maxi is the perfect canvas for a bold fabric choice. Minimal seam lines mean a detailed print won’t be broken up awkwardly.
Blue and pink floral-print linen, £6.95 per metre www.abakhan.co.uk
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Pink, cerise and white linen-look cotton, £3 per metre www.minervacrafts.com
here age 23 w p o t n r u T how ows you Diane sh ro! ts like a p in r p ix m to
Colour-block with confidence by sewing the bands and plackets in a contrasting colour. We created a hip vent by sewing the placket on the inside! M7408
MISSES’ TUNIC AND DRESSES: Semi-fitted, A-line TUNIQUE ET ROBES POUR JEUNE FEMME: Tunique trapèze, semi-ajustée tunic and dress have bust darts, neckline, and sleeve à pinces de poitrine, variations d’encolure et de manche. A, B: Galon de ruban. variations. A, B: Ribbon trim. A, B, C: Side slits. A: A, B, C: Fentes latérales. A: Bandes contrastantes. C: Cordon acheté. C: Contrast bands C: Purchased cording. D: Purchased Perles achetés. C, D: Ourlet piqué. beads. C, D: Stitched hem. TÚNICA Y VESTIDOS PARA JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: Túnica línea A, semientallada, con pinzas en el busto, variaciones de escote y de manga. A, B: Ribete de cinta. A, B, C: Aberturas laterales. A: Bandas contrastantes. C: Cordón comprado. D: Cuentas compradas. C, D: Dobladillo cosido a máquina.
Combinations: Y(XS-S-M), ZZ(L-XL-XXL) Séries/Combinaciones: Y(TP/XP-P/P-M/M), ZZ(G/G-TG/XG-TTG/XXG) SUGGESTED FABRICS: Cotton Blends, Sateen, Dobby, Linen. TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Cotonnade, Satin de coton, Façonné, Toile de lin. TELAS SUGERIDAS: Mezclas de algodón, Satén de algodón, Labrada, Lino. SIZES XS S M L XL XXL TAILLES/TALLAS TP/XP P/P M/M G/G TG/XG TTG/XXG 4-6 8-10 12-14 16-18 20-22 24-26 4-6 8-10 12-14 16-18 20-22 24-26 A 45"*** 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1π 2 2∂ Yds. A 115cm*** 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.80 1.90 2.00 m 60"*** 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∞ 1≥ 1≥ " 150cm*** 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.40 1.60 1.60 m CONTRAST A - 45", 60"*** - 1≤ yds. CONTRASTE A - 115, 150cm*** - 1.20m FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, C ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA A, C 18", 20" - 1 yd. 46, 51cm - 1.00m B 45"*** 2≥ 2≥ 2π 2π 2π 2π Yds. B 115cm*** 2.60 2.60 2.70 2.70 2.70 2.70 m 60"*** 1π 1π 2 2∂ 2π 2π " 150cm*** 1.80 1.80 1.90 2.00 2.70 2.70 m FUSIBLE INTERFACING B ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA B 18", 20" - 1∑ yds. 46, 51cm - 1.30m C 45"*** 2≥ 2π 2π 3∞ 3∞ 3∞ Yds. C 115cm*** 2.60 2.70 2.70 3.20 3.20 3.20 m 60"*** 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∞ 2∫ 2∫ " 150cm*** 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.30 2.40 2.40 m D 45"*** 3∞ 3∞ 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ 4 Yds. D 115cm*** 3.20 3.20 3.40 3.40 3.40 3.70 m 60"*** 2∞ 2π 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ " 150cm*** 2.30 2.70 3.40 3.40 3.40 3.40 m FUSIBLE INTERFACING D ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA D 18", 20" - 1∂ yds. 46, 51cm - 1.10m NOTIONS: A, B: ∑" or ∫" Ribbons: 6∞ yds. for A, 4≥ yds. for B. C: 1≤ yds. MERCERIE: A, B: Rubans de 1cm ou 1.5cm: 6.00m pour A, 4.40m pour B. C: Cording. D: Purchased Beads. 1.20m de Cordon. D: Perles achetées. MERCERÍA: A, B: Cintas de 1cm o 1.5cm: 6.00m para A, 4.40m para B. C: 1.20m de cordón. D: Cuentas compradas. MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI/MEDIDAS DE LA PRENDA ACABADA Mesure à la poitrine/Contorno de busto A, B, C, D 90 95 104 115 125 135 cm Mesure aux hanches/Contorno de caderas B, C, D 104 109 118 128 138 149 cm Largeur à l’ourlet/Ancho inferior D 147 152 161 171 182 192 cm Longueur - dos, votre nuque à l’ourlet/Largo de espalda desde la nuca A 81 83 84 85 87 88 cm B 109 110 112 113 115 116 cm C 95 97 98 99 100 102 cm D 143 145 146 147 149 150 cm FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at bustline A, B, C, D 35∞ 37∞ 41 Measurement at hipline B, C, D 41 43 46∞ Width, lower edge D 58 60 63∞ Back length from base of neck A 32 32∞ 33 B 43 43∞ 44 C 37∞ 38 38∞ D 56∞ 57 57∞
34 45 39∞ 58∞
33∞ 44∞ 39 58
34∞ 45∞ 40 59
Ins. " "
" " " "
*With Nap **Without Nap ***With or Without Nap
*Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo **Sin Pelillo ***Con o Sin Pelillo
Copyright© 2016, The McCall Pattern Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Off. Marca Registrada Sold for individual home use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes. www.mccallpattern.com Reserve à un usage personnel. Utilisation commerciale ou industrielle strictement interdite.
Size Y/ZZ Taille (6-26 : XS-XXL) Talla
D B A BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESURES/MEDIDAS DEL CUERPO SIZES XS S M L XL XXL 4-6 8-10 12-14 16-18 20-22 24-26 Bust 29∞-30∞ 31∞-32∞ 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48 Ins. Waist 22-23 24-25 26∞-28 30-32 34-37 39-41∞ Ins. Hip 31∞-32∞ 33∞-34∞ 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 Ins. Back Waist Length 15≤-15∞ 15≥-16 16≤-16∞ 16≥-17 17≤-17∞ 17≥-18 Ins. TAILLES/TALLAS TP/XP P/P M/M G/G TG/XG TTG/XXG 4-6 8-10 12-14 16-18 20-22 24-26 Poitrine/Busto 75-77 80-83 87-92 97-102 107-112 117-122 cm Taille/Cintura 56-58 61-64 67-71 76-81 87-94 99-105 cm Hanches/Caderas 80-83 85-88 92-97 102-107 112-117 122-127 cm Longueur dos/Largo espalda 39-39.5 40-40.5 41.5-42 42.5-43 44-44.5 45-45.5 cm
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For a good fit in the upper body, use the finished bust measurements printed on the tissue to pick your size
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McCALL PATTERN CO. DESIGN WORTH £8.95 WITH EVERY ISSUE! See page 26 for details
VIEW C We love pattern hacking! Shorten the sleeve like we did and add eyelet lacing for a cool twist.
Light blue handwoven crossweave, £18.99 per metre www.offsetwarehouse.com 20 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
LS42 pp18 mccalls dress.indd 20
Adding a lace-up front to this tunic gives a nautical twist to the pattern. Eyelet kits are inexpensive, and easy to use with our handy tips!
First things first... you should always interface the area to which you want to add an eyelet. This is to help with the strain of the ties you're weaving through them. On our version of McCall's 7408 the placket piece is interfaced which is sufficient support. Try a test using scrap fabric but make sure it's the same thickness and type of fabric, and interfaced the same way as your garment. Cut a hole in the material where you want the eyelet to go. Place the eyelet on the fabric and, using a fabric pencil, mark a dot in the centre. Snip a small cross first using embroidery scissors, then you can round it off. You can also use an awl to start the hole and then snip it further. The kit we used included a hole cutter. To use this, place the two metal pads into the tool, close around your fabric and hammer lightly on top. It will cut a perfect circle in your fabric but this is much harder to keep central. Remember to hold the hammer directly above the tool, 90Ëšfrom the table.
Push the eyelet through the hole you have made from the RS and lay RS down. You may need to wiggle it into place. (An easy way to tell which is the eyelet, is to look for a taller stem than the washer.)
Remember the finished measurements are printed on the pattern tissue! This helps you pick the perfect size Place the bottom washer loosely over the top on the WS. Our kit included a hand press tool which has a detachable plastic cup. These cups are sized to match your eyelet size, meaning you can easily swap when working on different projects.
Looking at the tool, you'll need to place the front of the eyelet into the circular space. The tool has a flexible arm
that should then bend around to the WS and the side of the tool with the small mountain inside should sit over the washer.
Holding the arm of the tool carefully, use a hammer to tap the end which forces the stem of the eyelet to gently curl back trapping the washer in place. Voila!
Use cord or ribbon for terrific ties
Prym antique silver eyelet kit 8mm, ÂŁ6.99 ww.minervacrafts.com
LS42 pp18 mccalls dress.indd 21
23 Reader Review.indd 23
Say hello to Diane at With two geometric designs I needed to take care with pattern placement. Lengthening the tunic top without adding width, raising the armhole and making an insert to go behind the front opening were challenges I faced. The pattern came together easily. The diagrams for the external faced openings I've used a lot of McCall's patterns and was confident about what size to make. At 5'2" and with measurements of 40:32:42", I match with a size 18. Yet I always make a size 14! I like to get the bust and shoulder area to fit well as they act as a scaffold for most garments, so I made a mock up. With the armholes unfinished I could see my bra, and the front faced opening revealed more than I was comfortable with! After a few tweaks I got these issues addressed. The design of McCall's 7408 has a 60s kaftan feel and it works with or without sleeves and has the option of a contrast border and three lengths. Always up for a challenge, I said yes and Editor Amy offered me two co-ordinating cotton fabrics from the Gutermann Marrakech range (www.guetermann.com), which turned out to be a delight to work with.
semi-ajustée FEMME: Tunique trapèze, ET ROBES POUR JEUNE B: Galon de ruban. Semi-fitted, A-line TUNIQUE d’encolure et de manche. A, MISSES’ TUNIC AND DRESSES: à pinces de poitrine, variations C: Cordon acheté. C: darts, neckline, and sleeve A: Bandes contrastantes. tunic and dress have bust A: A, B, C: Fentes latérales. trim. A, B, C: Side slits. achetés. C, D: Ourlet piqué. variations. A, B: Ribbon Túnica línea A, semicording. D: Purchased Perles JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: Contrast bands C: Purchased TÚNICA Y VESTIDOS PARA y de manga. A, B: el busto, variaciones de escote contrastantes. C: beads. C, D: Stitched hem. entallada, con pinzas en Aberturas laterales. A: Bandas Ribete de cinta. A, B, C: cosido a máquina. compradas. C, D: Dobladillo Cordón comprado. D: Cuentas ZZ(G/G-TG/XG-TTG/XXG) Toile de lin. Séries/Combinaciones: Y(TP/XP-P/P-M/M), Satin de coton, Façonné, ZZ(L-XL-XXL) Labrada, Lino. TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Cotonnade, Combinations: Y(XS-S-M), Linen. de algodón, Satén de algodón, Cotton Blends, Sateen, Dobby, TELAS SUGERIDAS: Mezclas TG/XG TTG/XXG G/G SUGGESTED FABRICS: M/M P/P 24-26 TAILLES/TALLAS TP/XP 20-22 16-18 XXL XL 12-14 L 8-10 M 4-6 S 2.00 m XS 1.90 1.80 24-26 SIZES 1.50 1.50 1.50 12-14 16-18 20-22 8-10 1.60 m 115cm*** 4-6 1.60 1.40 2∂ Yds. A 1.30 2 1.30 1π 1∫ 1.30 1∫ 150cm*** 1∫ " 1≥ 45"*** A 1≥ - 1.20m 1∞ 1∑ 1∑ A, C 1∑ CONTRASTE A - 115, 150cm*** 60"*** NTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA - 1≤ yds. ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/E CONTRAST A - 45", 60"*** 2.70 m A, C 46, 51cm - 1.00m 2.70 2.70 FUSIBLE INTERFACING 2.70 2.60 2.60 2.70 m 115cm*** 2.70 2.00 2π Yds. B 18", 20" - 1 yd. 1.90 2π 1.80 2π 2π 1.80 2≥ B 150cm*** 2≥ " 2π 45"*** B 2π NTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA 2∂ 2 1π 1π ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/E 60"*** 3.20 m B 46, 51cm - 1.30m 3.20 3.20 FUSIBLE INTERFACING 2.70 2.70 2.60 2.40 m 115cm*** 2.40 2.30 3∞ Yds. C 18", 20" - 1∑ yds. 2.00 3∞ 2.00 3∞ 2π 2.00 2π 3.70 m 150cm*** 2≥ 3.40 " 3.40 2∫ 45"*** C 3.40 2∫ 3.20 2∞ 2∂ 3.20 2∂ 3.40 m 115cm*** 2∂ 3.40 Yds. D 3.40 4 60"*** 3.40 3∫ 2.70 3∫ 3∫ 2.30 3∞ D 150cm*** 3∞ " 3∫ 45"*** D 3∫ NTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA 3∫ 3∫ 2π 2∞ ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/E 60"*** B. C: D 46, 51cm - 1.10m 6.00m pour A, 4.40m pour FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, B: Rubans de 1cm ou 1.5cm: 18", 20" - 1∂ yds. yds. for B. C: 1≤ yds. MERCERIE: achetées. Ribbons: 6∞ yds. for A, 4≥ 1.20m de Cordon. D: Perles A, 4.40m para B. C: NOTIONS: A, B: ∑" or ∫" de 1cm o 1.5cm: 6.00m para MERCERÍA: A, B: Cintas Cording. D: Purchased Beads. compradas. ACABADA 1.20m de cordón. D: Cuentas FINI/MEDIDAS DE LA PRENDA MESURES DU VÊTEMENT de busto 135 cm Mesure à la poitrine/Contorno 125 115 104 95 90 A, B, C, D de caderas 149 cm Mesure aux hanches/Contorno 138 128 118 109 104 B, C, D inferior 192 cm Largeur à l’ourlet/Ancho 182 171 161 152 147 desde la nuca D à l’ourlet/Largo de espalda cm 88 Longueur - dos, votre nuque 87 85 84 83 81 116 cm A 115 113 112 110 109 102 cm B 100 99 98 97 95 150 cm C 149 147 146 145 143 Pelillo D
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at bustline 41 37∞ 35∞ A, B, C, D Measurement at hipline 46∞ 43 41 B, C, D Width, lower edge 63∞ 60 58 D neck Back length from base of 33 32∞ 32 A 44 43∞ 43 B 38∞ 38 37∞ C 57∞ 57 56∞ D
34 45 39∞ 58∞
33∞ 44∞ 39 58
34∞ 45∞ 40 59
" " " "
or Without Nap *With Nap **Without Nap ***With
*Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec
**Sin Pelillo ***Con ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo
n a lovely June day I set off through the Peak District to meet some of the team from Love Sewing. I've done many things, but never a photoshoot! It was a case of hair, make-up, camera, action! C
Copyright© 2016, The McCall
U.S. Pat. & TM Printed in U.S.A. Trademarks Reg. York 10271, All Rights Reserved. Pattern Co., 120 Broadway, New manufacturing purposes. www.mccallpattern.com only and not for commercial or strictement interdite. Sold for individual home use Utilisation commerciale ou industrielle Reserve à un usage personnel.
Size Y/ZZ Taille (6-26 : XS-XXL) Talla
Off. Marca Registrada
www.sew-it.biz Butterick 6318
In issue 43, Sarah reviews See more of my version over on the blog, as well as my wearable toile version! This is a really versatile pattern. I omitted the sleeves as they're very wide, but they'd be lovely in a soft voile or crepe de chine. The lower edge for each view is almost straight and a border print would look amazing, perhaps turning the side facings to the inside? on the sleeves are really small; I'd advise you to look at the instructions for the side vents as they are identical, but with larger diagrams. I avoided all the slip stitching by finishing the contrast pieces on the right side, covering the edges with ribbon trim. The pattern says to use ribbon, but it's really hard to get it to lie flat round the curved pieces. I used a soft grosgrain ribbon and had to steam it into shape – bias binding would have been easier!
SURES/MEDIDAS DEL CUERPO XL BODY MEASUREMENTS/ME L M S XS 20-22 SIZES 16-18 12-14 8-10 4-6 42-44 38-40 29∞-30∞ 31∞-32∞ 34-36 34-37 Bust 30-32 26∞-28 24-25 22-23 44-46 Waist 40-42 31∞-32∞ 33∞-34∞ 36-38 17≤-17∞ Hip 15≥-16 16≤-16∞ 16≥-17 Back Waist Length 15≤-15∞ TG/XG G/G M/M P/P TP/XP 20-22 TAILLES/TALLAS 16-18 12-14 8-10 4-6 97-102 107-112 87-92 80-83 75-77 87-94 Poitrine/Busto 76-81 67-71 61-64 56-58 Taille/Cintura 102-107 112-117 92-97 85-88 80-83 Hanches/Caderas Longueur dos/Largo espalda 42.5-43 44-44.5 39-39.5 40-40.5 41.5-42
XXL 24-26 46-48 Ins. 39-41∞ Ins. 48-50 Ins. 17≥-18 Ins. TTG/XXG 24-26 117-122 cm 99-105 cm 122-127 cm 45-45.5 cm
YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
Diane of blog www.sew-it.biz shares her thoughts on your McCall’s free gift
Items available from HomeSense, visit www.homesense.com to find your nearest store
LS42 pp24-25 Fabric focus.indd 24
FANATIC Use sorbet colours and graphic prints to inject some summer fun into your home 4
Fabric shopping Riley Blake Yellow Medium Chevron cotton, ÂŁ3.50 per Âź metre, www.backstitch.co.uk Goa Stripe Cherry curtaining, ÂŁ9.99 per metre, www.terrysfabrics.co.uk Purple 7mm white spot cotton, ÂŁ4.50 per fat quarter, www.edenhousefabrics.co.uk Art Gallery Fabrics Dried Carrot cotton, see www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist Pure Arrow Stripe Mint cotton, ÂŁ7.99 per metre, www.higgsandhiggs.com Art Gallery Fabrics Arizona Triangle Tokens cotton, ÂŁ3 per fat quarter, www.beadandbuttoncompany.co.uk Michael Miller Citron Sea Buddies Wave cotton, ÂŁ3 per Âź metre, www.thesewingstudio.co.uk Art Gallery Fabrics Lines & Shapes Square Egret canvas, see www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 25
LS42 pp24-25 Fabric focus.indd 25
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BODY MEASUREMENTS/MES URES/MEDIDAS DEL SIZES CUERPO XS S M L XL 4-6 XXL 8-10 12-14 Bust 16-18 20-22 29∞-30∞ 31∞-32∞ 24-26 34-36 Waist 38-40 42-44 22-23 46-48 Ins. 24-25 26∞-28 Hip 30-32 34-37 31∞-32∞ 39-41∞ Ins. Back Waist Length 15≤-15∞ 33∞-34∞ 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 Ins. 15≥-16 16≤-16∞ 16≥-17 17≤-17∞ 17≥-18 Ins. TAILLES/TALLAS TP/XP P/P M/M G/G TG/XG TTG/XXG 4-6 8-10 12-14 Poitrine/Busto 16-18 20-22 75-77 24-26 80-83 87-92 Taille/Cintura 97-102 107-112 117-122 56-58 cm 61-64 67-71 Hanches/Caderas 76-81 87-94 80-83 99-105 85-88 92-97 Longueur dos/Largo espalda 102-107 112-117 122-127 cm cm 39-39.5 40-40.5 41.5-42 42.5-43 44-44.5 45-45.5 cm
RUFFLE SLEEVES MASTERACLASS
SE HEXIE BAG AND PUR
Size Y/ZZ Taille (6-26 : XS-XXL) Talla
working with chiffon and silk
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D Pattern Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. Sold for individual home Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. use only and not for commercial & TM Off. Marca Registrada or manufacturing purposes. Reserve à un usage personnel. www.mccallpattern.com Utilisation commerciale ou industrielle strictement interdite.
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Inspire Imagine Create
LS42 COVER V2.indd
Copyright© 2016, The McCall
Bank/Building Society account number
SWEET TREATS EMBROIDERY
ISSUE 42 UK £5.99
Branch sort code
________ Product: ____
Name(s) of Account Holder(s)
*Con Pelillo **Sin Pelillo
***Con o Sin Pelillo
MISSES’ TUNIC AND DRESSES: Semi-fitted, A-line TUNIQUE ET tunic and dress have ROBES POUR JEUNE bust darts, neckline, and FEMME: Tunique trapèze, sleeve à pinces de variations. A, B: Ribbon poitrine, semi-ajusté trim. variations e d’encolure et de manche. Contrast bands C: Purchased A, B, C: Side slits. A: A, B, C: Fentes A, B: Galon de ruban. latérales. A: Bandes cording. D: Purchased contrastantes. C: Cordon beads. C, D: Stitched Perles achetés. C, D: hem. acheté. C: Ourlet piqué. TÚNICA Y VESTIDOS PARA JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: entallada, con pinzas Túnica línea A, semien el busto, variaciones de escote y de manga. Ribete de cinta. A, B, A, B: C: Aberturas laterales. A: Cordón comprado. D: Bandas contrastantes. Combinations: Y(XS-S-M), Cuentas compradas. C, C: ZZ(L-XL-XXL) D: Dobladillo cosido a SUGGESTED FABRICS: máquina. Cotton Blends, Sateen, Séries/Combinaciones: Dobby, Linen. Y(TP/XP-P/P-M/M), ZZ(G/G-TG TISSUS CONSEILLÉ /XG-TTG/XXG) SIZES S: Cotonnade, Satin de XS coton, TELAS SUGERIDAS: S M L Mezclas de algodón, Satén Façonné, Toile de lin. XL XXL 4-6 8-10 TAILLES/TALLAS de algodón, 12-14 Labrada, 16-18 TP/XP A Lino. 45"*** 20-22 P/P 24-26 M/M 1∫ G/G 1∫ TG/XG TTG/XXG 1∫ 1π 4-6 60"*** 2 8-10 2∂ Yds. A 12-14 1∑ 16-18 115cm*** 20-22 1∑ 24-26 1∞ 1.50 CONTRAST A - 45", 60"*** 1∑ 1≥ 1.50 1≥ 1.50 " - 1≤ yds. 1.80 150cm*** 1.90 2.00 m 1.30 FUSIBLE INTERFACI 1.30 1.30 NG A, 1.40 C CONTRAST 1.60 E A - 115, 150cm*** - 1.20m 1.60 m 18", 20" - 1 yd. ENTOILAGE THERMOCO B 45"*** LLANT/ENT RETELA 2≥ TERMOADHESIVA A, 46, 51cm - 1.00m 2≥ 2π 2π C 60"*** 2π 2π Yds. B 1π 1π 115cm*** 2 2∂ 2.60 FUSIBLE 2π 2.60 INTERFACI 2π 2.70 NG B " 2.70 150cm*** 2.70 2.70 m 1.80 18", 20" - 1∑ yds. 1.90 2.00 ENTOILAGE THERMOCO 1.80 2.70 2.70 m C 45"*** LLANT/ENTRETELA 2≥ TERMOADHESIVA B 2π 46, 51cm - 1.30m 2π 3∞ 60"*** 3∞ 3∞ Yds. C 2∂ 2∂ 115cm*** 2∂ 2∞ 2.60 D 45"*** 2∫ 2.70 2∫ 2.70 3∞ " 3.20 3∞ 150cm*** 3.20 3∫ 3.20 m 3∫ 2.00 60"*** 3∫ 2.00 4 2.00 2∞ Yds. D 2.30 2π 115cm*** 2.40 3∫ 2.40 m 3∫ 3.20 FUSIBLE INTERFACI 3∫ 3.20 3∫ 3.40 NG D " 3.40 150cm*** 3.40 3.70 m 2.30 18", 20" - 1∂ yds. 2.70 3.40 3.40 ENTOILAG 3.40 E THERMOCOLLANT/ENT 3.40 m NOTIONS: A, B: ∑" or RETELA TERMOADH ∫" Ribbons: 6∞ yds. 46, 51cm - 1.10m ESIVA D for A, 4≥ yds. for Cording. D: Purchased B. C: 1≤ yds. Beads. MERCERIE : A, B: Rubans de 1cm ou 1.5cm: 6.00m pour 1.20m de Cordon. D: A, 4.40m pour B. C: Perles MERCERÍA: A, B: Cintas achetées. de 1.20m de cordón. D: Cuentas 1cm o 1.5cm: 6.00m para A, 4.40m para B. C: MESURES DU VÊTEMENT compradas. FINI/MEDIDAS DE LA Mesure à la poitrine/Co PRENDA ACABADA 45 ntorno de busto 49 53 Ins. A, B, C, D 90 95 104 115 Mesure aux hanches/Co 125 135 cm 50∞ ntorno de caderas 54∞ 58∞ " B, C, D 104 109 118 128 Largeur à l’ourlet/Anc 138 149 cm 67∞ ho inferior 71∞ 75∞ " D 147 152 161 171 Longueur - dos, votre 182 192 cm nuque à l’ourlet/Largo de espalda desde la A 81 nuca 83 84 85 B 87 88 109 cm 110 112 113 C 115 116 cm 95 97 98 99 D 100 102 cm 143 145 146 147 149 150 cm ***Avec ou Sans Sens
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The Dressmaker's With Elisalex
DIARY Elisalex creates a floaty wrap skirt perfect for hot summer days
round about this time of year, heatwaves come and they hit us like we’ve never seen a ray of sunshine in our lives. Everything stops. People call in sick and play dead in their local park, clutching warm beer and tanning oil. Corner shops suddenly run out of water and ice, sales of Pimm’s skyrocket and, in true Brit style, we still find a way to complain about the weather!
Use viscose, cupro or crepe de chine for maximum drape or try cotton lawn for a more stable fabric that won't shift as you sew
Last week we were moaning about the rain and wondering if summer was ever going to show up this year. Now we’re too hot. Too sticky. Surely it's the hottest day since hot days were invented? I couldn’t possibly get a single thing done and just want to walk around naked with a gigantic fan directed at my face while I crunch on a bottomless Calippo. Can you tell that I’m actually melting in a pool of my own sweat as I write this?? Sadly, I can’t walk around my flat completely naked (I have great big windows that the people across the street can see straight through). So I’m thinking that a floaty, breezy, fuss-free wrap skirt, worn with a bikini top, will have to suffice. And preferably one that takes under two hours to cut and make. 28 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
28 Dressmakers.indd 28
WHAT YOU’LL NEED: • 3m drapey fabric (more if it’s narrower than 60” wide) • tape measure • tailor’s chalk
Cut x 3
skirt length + hem allowance
out from the weight of the skirt and therefore hang lower than those on the straight grain, resulting in an uneven, wavy hemline. If you did pre-wash, you should be fine. 6 Assemble the waistband by sewing the two short ends together to form one long strip. Roughly locating the centre of the waistband, pin it into place with RST along the waistline of the skirt. Stitch with the usual 5/8”. Press the seam allowance up into the waistband. 7 Press all the raw edges of the waistband in by 5/8”. Then, with the WS of the skirt facing you, fold the waistband in half lengthways, thereby sandwiching the waistline seam, and continuing along the length of the ties each side, like one great big strip of binding. Pin into place, and top-stitch to secure. 8 Simply throw your skirt over a bikini, swimsuit or cropped top and you’ve got heatwave dressing down to a tee! Now we can stop moaning and get back to eking out every last drop of this glorious British summer before winter rears its ugly head once more!
Let the circle skirt hang overnight in case the fabric needs to drop. Trim the edge evenly and then hem!
HOW TO MAKE: 1 Using the chart to pick out your waistline and radius measurement and, using the diagram as a pattern guide, cut three semicircles from the fabric. 2 With RST, sew the three semicircles together at the side seams with 5/8” seam allowance. Press open and finish the excess seam allowance. Remember to leave one side seam open for the wrap! 3 Hem the two open side seam lengths by folding and pressing the raw edge in by about ¼” and then again by about 3/4”. Don’t worry about being too meticulous here; it’s a wrap skirt and will still work even if you hem your open lengths a bit more or a bit less. Top-stitch into place. 4 Hem the skirt in the same way or, if you have an overlocker, finish the raw hemline first, then press in once to your desired length and stitch. 5 I mentioned that this skirt can be cut and sewn in under two hours, but if you haven't pre-washed your fabric you might have to leave the skirt to 'drop' for a few hours before you hem. This is because the parts of a circle skirt that fall on the bias will be more liable to stretch
28 Dressmakers.indd 29
ABOUT ELISALEX Elisalex is the head of design and co-founder of By Hand London. An independent pattern company, it produces gorgeously designed, high-quality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site www.byhandlondon.com
MATERIALS & TOOLS
ON A PLATE Make a co-ordinating table set that looks simply delicious by mixing bold cotton brights! Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER
• floral fat 8th bundle • black & white geometric fat 8th bundle • 50cm denim or chambray • 220x55cm fabric for backing • 220x55cm #279 80/20 Vlieseline wadding • fat quarter H630 fusible Vlieseline wadding • 6m bias binding made from 1 fat quarter • co-ordinating thread
FINISHED SIZE: Runner: 77x18" Coasters: 6" square
NOTES: All seams are ¼” unless otherwise stated Always align edges before stitching
Make no effort whatsoever to measure or match! The idea is that it is all over the place
HOW TO MAKE:
Boho Fusion collection, Take Shape collection and Indigo Shadow are from the Denim Studio collection by Art Gallery Fabrics , see www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist for further info
1 Make 24 wonky blocks using the tutorial on page 31 (this will include some to put aside for coasters), and don’t forget to make some denim with floral sashes. This really changes the look and is a great way to use up scraps. 2 Save about half of the squares at random to use as the plain blocks. The trick is to keep like and similar patterns and colours away from each other, so lay it all out before starting to sew. 3 Put four wonky cross squares aside for the coasters. 4 When you have a runner 13 blocks long (about
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WONKY BLOCK To make a wonky cross block choose one floral fabric and a solid. Cut a 16.5cm square from the floral and slash it down the centre vertically completely at random. You will get three squares from each fat eighth plus a long section for strip inserts. Cut the strips to 4cm wide.
Cut a strip of the solid about 4cm wide and the length of the 8th (or in the denim, the full length) and sew it into the slash.
Trim the backing fabric and cut across the corners to reduce bulk. Turn out through the gap and close it. Quilt with concentric squares, working from 1cm from the outer edge to the
centre about four rows. Repeat for as many coasters as you need. I have suggested four coasters but of course you can keep going. Remember, the fabric requirements may change though!
Your block is now finished. Trim it to 16.5cm square.
Each time you slash, have fun and make it different The idea is that it is wonky and all over the place, but that doesnâ€™t mean it can be sloppy. Keep your sewing pristine and your edges trimmed and perfect. When you sew them together, match the corners of the squares perfectly so that the strips align into a cross shape.
Slash again, this time horizontally and on a slight angle. Sew another strip into the slashed space.
2m) and three wide, lay the backing fabric face down add the wadding and then the completed top face up. Pin so that no movement is possible in any direction and quilt with a random wavy line, working across the runner. Trim the three layers even and round the corners with a large teacup or similar. Bind with bias binding. Make a set of coasters to
go with the runner with the four wonky cross blocks that you set aside earlier. Trim the squares to 16.5cm square and then fuse a square of H630 to the back of the pressed and trimmed block. Choose an offcut of backing fabric and, with RST, place the wadded front onto an untrimmed piece of backing. Sew around the perimeter, leaving a turning gap.
If you only have time for a quick, scrap-busting make, use this tutorial to make a set of coasters!
LS42 pp30 placemats.indd 31
ASK THE EXPERTS
STITCHER Claire-Louise Hardie talks us through creating a truly professional finish
Vogue 1392 features a beautiful off-theshoulder neckline and a flawless concealed zipper!
o you’ve made a couple of pieces with an invisible zip, and finished the edge with a facing or a binding in the way that home sewing pattern instructions teach you. I expect you were massively pleased with the first one, but after a couple of times doing it this way maybe you’re a little dissatisfied with the finish? You’ve got too much bulk right at the corner of the zip right? That’s because the standard method for applying a facing by machine involves stitching around the neck and then down the side of the centre back seam allowance. For your first garment this is an ideal method that will help you understand how all the elements sit together. However this isn't how the facings or edge finishes are applied in ready-to-wear (RTW) garments! Having taught the ready-to-wear method to total beginners, and boggled their minds (sorry guys), I know that the standard home-sewing method has a place, but once you’re past the beginner stage, it really is worth having a go at the RTW way. The methods assume you can happily insert an invisible zip, so I haven't included instructions on that bit!
You can try out this technique on the frill sleeve dress on page 84!
edges up as usual (right picture). Machine in place approximately 1cm from the zip teeth. Press facing away from the zip.
2 Fold the zip and facing onto the RS, making sure the fold lines up with the teeth of the zip (note how the zip below looks twisted).
FACINGS & LININGS In factories, the centre back edge of the facing is machined into the garment’s centre back seam allowance first. Essentially the facing is shortened by 1 cm. 1 This is done in two ways. You can offset the seam allowance of the facing by 1cm (left picture), or trim away 1cm and line the raw
3 Pin and then machine around the neck edge. I like to mark the position of the stopper with a marker so the corners match up perfectly.
32 Thrifty stitcher.indd 32
4 Trim and grade the seam allowance around the neckline. I like to trim down to 0.5cm and then there’s no need to clip! Remove the bulk at the zip edge. Then turn through to the right side and admire the lovely flat corners! (I under-stitched, but obviously can’t get right into the corners).
This is one of my favourite ways to finish a neckline, as it’s light and works well for floaty summer fabric. As part of my recent masters project I spent ages with a tutor at college researching ways to get a finish I wanted. This is now my new favourite technique! I used a contrasting commercial binding for speed, and so it showed up well in the pictures. However you can make a matching bias binding, or buy a pre-made 1/2" commercial binding. I chose a technique we costumiers use for binding, which is to fold the bias strip in half along its length. This gives a clean fold to edge-stitch inside. I also pre-press a curve into the bias following the shape of the neckline to which it’s going to be applied – I find this makes it sit really flat. Here’s my prepped commercial bias binding.
7 Roll and press the bias facing onto the RS so none of binding is visible from RS. Edge-stitch the folded bias edge, making sure you don't sew all the way to the zip teeth! You could also hand-sew this edge if you wanted it less visible from the outside. Voila! A flawless finish.
ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier. We recommend Claire-Louise's new course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners
5 As per the facing application, you attach the bias to the centre back seam over the zip. I measured my bias to fit the neckline, and again you either offset seam allowance by 1cm or trim 1cm from the end.
32 Thrifty stitcher.indd 33
6 Repeats steps 2-4 as with the facing. Press the bias away from the zip, then pin around the neckline with raw edges aligned and machine with a 1cm seam allowance. Trim and grade seam allowances and turn bias towards the inside.
Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk
• Air Threaded Loopers
• Automatic Needle Threader
• Produces beautiful sharp curves for necklines and sleeves
•Use 2, 3 or 4 threads to produce 7 different finishes including rolled hem
• Wide Throat Area gives excellent • Adjustable Differential Feed gives a professional finish even on stretchy visibility of the fabric whilst overlocking or knit fabrics
Find out more at www.jukiclub.com
FABRIC McCallâ€™s 7093 seamdetail top, ÂŁ9.25 from www.sewdirect.com
ON AIR Stay cool this summer with lightweight, sheer fabric 3
Fabric shopping Soft grey plain georgette, ÂŁ4.99 per metre, www.adamrossfabrics.co.uk Lime Green Tropics Floral crĂŞpe de chine, ÂŁ2.99 per half metre, www.weaverdee.com Coral polyester chiffon, ÂŁ2.50, www.bstfabrics.co.uk Baby blue extrawide chiffon, ÂŁ4.99 per metre, www.calicolaine.co.uk Royal blue polyester crĂŞpe de chine, ÂŁ4.44 per metre, www.fabricland.co.uk Abstract design polyester chiffon, 99p per metre, www.calicolaine.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 35
LS42 pp35 Fabric Focus.indd 35
Whether you're posing poolside or exploring the English coast, we recommend a suitcase of me-made garments
You little sun worshipper, we know you've got a hot destination in mind. Ooze sophistication in the S8096 tropical maxi dress with optional skirt split or try the sweet day dress view with pleated skirt. Available in sizes 6-22, priced ÂŁ16.
on Simplicity with code LOVESIMPLICITY*
We love the different views in the S8134 trouser and short multi-view pattern; they'd be ideal for camping or glamping. There are six styles in three lengths to choose from! Available in sizes 6-14 and 14-22, priced ÂŁ8.56.
Claim your discount by visiting www.jaycotts.co.uk before 24th August and entering the code LOVESIMPLICITY to SAVE 20% at checkout
LS42 pp36 pattern picks.indd 36
Explore the seaside at home in a classic stripe dress with S8375. We love the pattern hacking options included in this design, a clever new idea from the team at Simplicity. Available in sizes XXS-XXL, priced £8.95.
In for the long haul Heading off on a long plane ride? You'll really get mileage out of a cool cotton skirt that mixes with different tops. S1369 is available in sizes 6-14 and 14-22, priced £8.56.
Festival fun Music, beer, film and food... everyone loves a festival. The key thing is comfort and a jumpsuit will give you just that. We recommend S1355, which also has a romper variation included. Available in sizes XXS-XXL, priced £8.56.
If you're soaking up the culture on a gorgeous European mini break you'll look chic in these pleated culottes. S8092 is available in sizes 6-14 and 14-22, priced £8.15.
LS42 pp36 pattern picks.indd 37
SHOP OF THE
CAFFLE CRAFTS Weston-super-Mare
We chatted to Jane at Caffle Crafts, a family-run shop that specialises in Brother sewing machines, to find out more about running a business doing something that you love Hi there! How are you today and what’s going on in the shop? We’re all doing well, and it’s just like Christmas here today! We have some of our regulars in for a full-day class and we’ve just taken delivery of (more) new dressmaking fabric, so everyone is busy planning new projects! What was the first thing you ever sewed yourself? I have been sewing for the past 60 years. I remember the first thing I made was a dress with long darts in, and I cut them wrong! That taught me a lot and I’ve been hooked ever since. I thankfully know better now. Tell us a bit about the history of the shop We opened the shop when my kids were still at school and it has gone from strength to strength. Now we specialise in Brother sewing and embroidery machines and quilting and
dressmaking fabric. My daughter and I do the sewing and embroidery, my son is the in-house engineer for customers' machines and my husband does the book keeping. Although it’s a family concern we couldn’t run it without the support and friendship of our customers – they’re fantastic! In the age of 't’internet', to see such loyalty and support to us as a ‘real’ shop is truly remarkable. Which sewing machine would you recommend to a new, and an experienced, sewist? Our favourite sewing machine has to be the Brother F420. It’s an awesome machine and will grow with you as you learn, from the basics to the most advanced sewing. It’s a great all-round machine with an excellent threader, lots of stitches and a scissor function – which if you’ve never had you wouldn’t miss, but once you’ve got you’ll wonder how you ever managed without! At £599 it’s packed with features and excellent value for money.
Jane to become part of the family. An embroidery machine is a considered purchase; people worry that they won’t be able to work them but when you buy an embroidery machine from us you get free lessons for as long as you want and automatically get access to our exclusive monthly support groups too so everyone works together making sure you get the most from your machine.
...we couldn’t run it without the support and friendship of our customers – they’re fantastic!
What is your favourite fabric in stock right now? That changes all the time! Right now I am enjoying working with linen, making a tablecloth and napkins ready for Christmas! It sews so easily that I think I’m going to dye some to make a matching table runner too. What do you think sets you apart from other shops? Our customer service sets us apart from everyone else. At Caffle, our customers tend
Is there anything exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about? We’re very excited about our special Hands on Open Day coming up on Saturday 5th August. We’ll have all the sewing machines and embroidery machines up and running and anyone can come along and have a go to see if it’s something they’d be interested in. If any of your readers would like details they can give us a call or drop us an email and we’ll get back to them with more details.
CAFFLE CRAFTS Bristol Road (A370), Hewish, Weston-super-Mare, North Somerset BS24 6SE email@example.com 01934 838327
LS42 pp38 Shop of the month.indd 38
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21/06/2017 10:22 16:20 30/05/2017 30/05/2017 10:22
A brief history of
THE PRESS FASTENER The humble press fastener or ‘popper’ has revolutionised sewing since its invention. But where did it begin and why is it so popular? By CLAIRE LOUISE-HARDIE
ost clothing requires some type of fastening, the most common being a button. Metal press or ‘snap’ fasteners are the other most popular type of garment closure and were first patented in Germany in 1885 by Heribert Bauer. These types of fastening comprise either two metal parts for the sewn-on variety, or four metal parts for the riveted or non-sew variety. They make a characteristic ‘click’ or ‘snap’ sound when closed, hence the term snap fastener! The Prym family in Germany has manufactured brass goods since the 16th century and is synonymous with press-fastener production since buying the original German patent in 1903. The earlier original presses, known as ball and socket fasteners, weren’t rustproof, or very reliable. However, Prym improved the manufacturing process of the double S-spring fastener and developed standards that are still maintained today on the modern rust-free version. Its factory in Stolberg, Germany, produces millions of fasteners every day, 24 hours a day. It supplies a large percentage of the world’s fashion industry with high-quality fasteners. A sub division of the Prym Fashion company, called Prym Consumer, buys those fasteners suitable for the home dressmaker. Since many of the products require industrial machinery to apply, the selection for us at home is considerably smaller than the overall range manufactured in Germany. The distinctive double S-spring, which ensures the fastener isn’t too tight or too loose, can easily be seen on the poppers right. On display at Prym HQ is a pressing machine that was used in the early manufacturing process of these fasteners. One of the most successful marketing campaigns used by Prym and other global manufacturers of press
fasteners was to attach them to decorative cards. These have become collectibles and often depicted scenes of the great outdoors or family images, with many displaying the original Prym logo of a deer with a needle through its antlers. During the 50s its slogan was ‘the most reliable waist fastener of the present and the future’. Today most sewing kits will include a couple of sew-on poppers, proving their enduring usefulness. The advantage of sew-on press fasteners over buttons is that they offer a discreet, hidden closure, creating a clean look on the front of delicate blouses and dresses. Last winter many high-street brands and pattern companies produced coats with oversized press fasteners that were not visible from the outside. In response to this trend, Prym has produced a new range of coloured press fasteners available in regular
Ls42 pp 40-42 History of.indd 40
Early Prym press
We're amazed this historic press is still in working order! It takes pride of place at Prym HQ
and extra-large sizes. These new coloured fasteners enable the closure to be matched to the colour of the garment, making them almost invisible. It has also released new pretty fasteners with floral, lace-like patterns too!
The most reliable waist fastener of the present and the future
Closet Case Files Kelly Anorak pattern, available for ÂŁ17.99 from www.minervacrafts.com
Non-sew fasteners are generally associated with practical workwear, outerwear and accessories. The Prym manufacturing facility at Stolberg produces not only the fasteners but also the tools and equipment to manufacture these products. It employs a team of specialist engineers to create their own machinery, and the manufacturing processes are closely guarded secrets. Apparently industrial espionage is rife in the fastener business, and since Prym is market leader in both quality control and innovation, there are no photos available from within the factory itself. There are many, many types of no-sew fasteners, from heavy-duty storm flap fasteners on tents to the iconic pearlised snaps on Western-style shirts.
Vintage packets of snap fasteners have become highly collectible!
Ls42 pp 40-42 History of.indd 41
They fall roughly into two types, those with a ring closure, used where durability is an issue, and those with a prong closure, which are more suitable for light or mid-weight fabric in particular jersey. Every year Prym manufactures millions of seasonally coloured jersey snaps for childrenâ€™s garment manufacturers across the world!
Prym HQ in Stolberg, Germany
Probably the most iconic association of non-sew metal fasteners is jeans. The metal jean button (known as a tack button) and rivet offer designers an opportunity to stamp their own brand or logo, making them recognisable as
genuine products. In fact, itâ€™s this stamp that is used to identify counterfeits. The jeans rivet was believed to have been invented by Levi Strauss in around 1873. Rivets add strength to the corners of areas of strain such pockets, and, like the jean button, offer an opportunity for branding via stamping.
Why not try adding rivets to a me-made denim skirt or shirtdress? Or boldly go forth and sew some jeans!
Next time you snap your handbag or waterproof jacket closed, think of all the processes involved in making that fastener! All the various fasteners start as rolls of sheet metal. This passes through a pressing machine. The component fastener parts come out of the pressing machine on one side, and waste metal comes out on another side. All waste metal is returned to the steel plant next to the factory to be recycled into new sheets. Component parts are taken to another area of the plant to be assembled. Once assembled, they are stored by weight until an order comes in. All orders then proceed through the surface finishing process, based on the finish required. Quality control happens at this stage, and is completed by a human being. If an order passes the checks, it is taken to be packed. Should an order fail quality control processes, it will be returned for recycling, and the order will be re-processed. Next time you snap your handbag or waterproof jacket closed, think of all the processes involved in making that fastener!
Ls42 pp 40-42 History of.indd 42
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FABRIC FABRIC Embroidered jacket We love LisettePU 6358 ÂŁ60 for Butterick! www.jdwilliams.co.uk Further info below
Personalise this spring-summer biker jacket with our pick of sturdy yet stylish fabric
THING Five figure flattering swimsuits you'll love to wear! 4 5
Pattern Fabric shopping shopping Small bust boost: Sophie swimsuit size 0-20, $16 (approximately ÂŁ13), store.closetcasepatterns.com Minimise Copper Eco leatherette, ÂŁ15 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk Cognac 0.55mm-thick leather skin, ÂŁ17 midriffs: Kwik Sew 4182 tankini size XS-XL, ÂŁ8.99, www.sewdirect.com Bigger busts: Butterick 5795 swimsuit size per 5ft square www.pittards.com Burgundy leatherette, ÂŁ6 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk Mama RR (18-24) and KK (26-32), ÂŁ8.95, www.craftstash.co.uk Sporty silhouette: Indigo ruche bikini sizes 8-20, ÂŁ10.08, pink 0.7mm-thick leather skin, ÂŁ17 per 5ft square www.pittards.com Spot print mid-blue denim, ÂŁ8.99 per metre www. www.swimstylepatterns.etsy.com Colour block curves: Lisette for Butterick 6358 sizes AX5 (4-12) and D5 (12-20), abakhan.co.uk Shell pink soft faux suede, ÂŁ9.80 per metre www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk ÂŁ8.95, www.craftstash.co.uk 44 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
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THE GIRL WITH THE BRIGHT
Jade Earley was a finalist on The Great British Sewing Bee 2016 where she shared her love for sewing with the world. Follow her sewing adventures at www.facebook.com/ thegirlwiththebrightredhair
r i a h d Re
hat a month! I am well and truly on count down to Sewing Bee Live and my collection of clothes I'm making for the show is looking amazing. I’m so excited to show you my new ballgown! Who still hasn't booked their tickets? “Me" I hear you say, well use my discount code JEC. Butterick 5797 corset My first favorite dress pattern would have to be my prom dress. Even though it is a two-piece it is still worn as a dress. The corset was hand drafted by me because I had in my mind the specific shape around the top but there are
In this issue, Jade recommends her three favourite dresses and party looks
Corsets give you the chance to try lots of different skills lots of great patterns to try. Corsets give you the chance to try lots of different skills and, as I said, can be worn with a skirt, as a dress or with trousers. Burda Young 6848 This Burda pattern is so great to throw on. I made one out of a black and white stretch jersey and it was such an easy make. It was all done on the overlocker and has an amazing fit. When you sew jersey you don’t need to finish the seams so you can make things up in half the time!
Burda Kids 9431 Lastly I need to mention this dress for my sister Jema as part of my challenge to create mini makes for her inspired by my series of The Sewing Bee. This dress was a little complicated due to the pleats but I had soon figured them out. Although I’m having a sudden love affair with jumpsuits, I would definitely make all of these dresses again! Let’s see how much time I have after the live show…
! g n i w e s y p Hap www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 45
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Practise your pattern drafting and master working with chiffon with this breezy throw-on cover-up! Project CHINELO BALLY
Need some inspiration? See our round up of the best lightweight and floaty fabric on page 35
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HOW TO MAKE: MATERIALS & TOOLS • 1.5-2m 60"-wide lightweight woven fabric (see fabric requirements below) • water-soluble marker • straight ruler or yard stick • co-ordinating thread
NOTES 1.2cm seam allowance has been used throughout unless otherwise stated
Imagine yourself on an exotic beach in your swimwear, wearing this beautiful DIY chiffon throwover!
• Measure from your shoulder to the desired hem length. Multiply by two and add 5cm (2"). This is the length of fabric you will need • Elbow to elbow; this will be the width (measure with your arms outstretched to the sides, from one elbow across your back to your other elbow) • Loosely measure the circumference midway between your natural waist and knee; this will be the hem circumference
Fold the fabric in half along the length, then in half along the width. At the bottom edge, slip one blade of the scissors between the layers of the second fold and cut along the outer layer right up to the corner point – the inner layer is left uncut. The cut edges are the centre front. The open edges opposite the centre front are the side seams. (See Pic A.) Divide the width required by two and, with the fabric still folded, measure out from the centre front along the top edge and mark that measurement plus 2.5cm (1"). Divide the hem circumference by four, measure out from the centre front along the bottom edge and mark that measurement plus 20cm (8"). Join the two marks with a straight diagonal line. Cut the fabric along the drawn line, cutting through all layers. (See Pic B.) From the outer edge, measure and mark 24cm
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Kathy used lilac linen-look polyester, £3.99 per metre available at www.minervacrafts.com
This month 1'm making THE AVID SEAMSTRESS
Ever wanted to replicate the sample shown on the pattern envelope? Kathy did just that! Read more about Kathy's sewing adventures at www.sewdainty.co.uk
i everyone! I am thrilled to share my latest make with you! This month was the perfect opportunity to try a pattern that I had been eyeing up for a long time – The Day Dress by The Avid Seamstress (www.theavidseamstress.co.uk).
THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabrics and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities. Each blogger's unique kits are available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com
Every time I searched for inspiration on this pattern I was drawn back to the image that The Avid Seamstress uses for the envelope. I usually enjoy the challenge of making a garment my own by selecting a fabric I think will work well with that design. Oh no, not this time! I was certain that on this occasion I wanted a perfect replica of the image! My chosen fabric is an adorable linen-look polyester. It looks like linen but without all the creases! At such lovely quality and a bargain at only £3.99 per metre, I couldn't have been more happy with it. The sewing pattern itself is great. The high-quality paper pattern sheet is accompanied by a wonderful instruction booklet and leaflets helping with sewing terms and offering advice. The order in which the dress pieces are put together was a little different than I was expecting, but I followed the instructions to the letter and loved how it came together. One good
tip was to overlock all the raw edges before stitching; I will definitely use this on my sewing makes in the future for sure. The gathers are made using elastic. Anybody familiar with the Moneta Dress will know all about this way of gathering. I have only used clear elastic before for this, but for this I used regular 6mm elastic and it worked beautifully, giving even gathers! And can we just take a moment to appreciate how deep the pockets are on this dress. Fabulous! The sleeves require a little patience. Normally they are eased into place by gentle gathering stitches at the head of the sleeve, but the instructions ask you to use lots of pins and take your time. I am thrilled to say that they both went in beautifully without any puckers at all! I decided to hem the skirt by hand, as I felt that this would look the neatest with a plain fabric. I am usually quite lazy about this and generally machine-stitch the hems of my dresses, but I wanted a really neat professional finish. It actually didn't take too long as the skirt isn't that full, and it gave me the near-invisible finish I wanted. So all in all, I am over the moon with this dress. There is nothing that I didn't like about it, I didn't need to make any alterations and I love the style. Winner!
The Avid Seamstress has step-by-step explanations and videos on its site, if you are struggling
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Caffle Crafts (01934) 838327 Caffle Crafts (01934) 838327 Family run shop with
Family run shop with patchwork fabrics, embroidery threads and sales agents for Brother sewing and embroidery machines with extensive after sales support.
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Family run shop with FABRICS www.claire-tyler.com patchwork fabrics, embroidery Premium quality dress fabrics hand selected and presented in threads and sales agents for 01243 555312 four seasonal swatch Collections sourced mainly from Europe. Order any quantity by phone, e-mail, post or fax. Brother sewing and www.bloomsburysquarefabrics.com Subscribe for only ÂŁ18p.a with no obligation embroidery machines with 01730 810295 extensive after Join today! Call Dianasales on 07748support. 530 318
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and sales agents for Brother sewing and embroidery machines with extensive after sales support.
www.cafflecrafts.co.uk 2 miles from J21 M5 www.cottonreelstudio.co.uk BS24 6SE email@example.com
Luxurious fabrics, Dressmaking Classes Dressmaking classes Patchwork & Quilting Book Now For Spring & Summer
F club www.claire-tyler.com OFSewing After School 15% e d co h it w Parties Creative LOVE41 01243 555312 Summer Workshops for Kids and Teens Special Weekend Workshops www.bloomsburysquarefabrics.com East Hoathly East Sussex BN8 6QA
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Luxurious fabrics, Fabric Dressmaking classes Patterns
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Ely: 7 High Street Passage, Ely, CB7 4NB Tel: 01353 664000 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Te Email: el
Temptations Craft Boutique
An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters 100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting Knitting yarn and haberdashery Courses and -workshops Fabric - Haberdashery Workshops - Yarn Agents Brother Sewing Machines Sewingfor Machines & Overlockers
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Bury St. Edmunds: 23 Hatter Street, Bury St Edmunds, IP33 1NE Tel: 01284 755459 Email: email@example.com
Fabric - Haberdashery - Workshops - Yarn Sewing Machines & Overlockers
An Al Po 10
Ely: Visit our shop or buy safely Bury St. Edmunds: online 7 High Passage, 23 Hatter 31 Street Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2Street, 7HQ Ely, CB7 4NB Bury St Edmunds, IP33 1NE Tel: 015242 61868 Tel: 01353 664000 Tel: 01284 755459 www.temptationsbentham.co.uk Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Email:see email@example.com For shop opening times please our website
51 Temptations www.lovesewingmag.co.uk Craft Boutique
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30/05/2017 14:43 20/06/2017 14:34
An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton
workshops CRAFTY SEW&SO
St. Martins Square, Leicester
The shop stocks everything a keen stitcher could need, from buttons and zips to fabric, patterns and sewing machines. The team hosts regular lively and insightful workshops and offers product advice sessions and guest classes from a range of talented crafters including some celebrity names. www.craftysewandso.com 0116 319 6930
30TH JULY Beginners A-line skirt Make a simple skirt! This workshop will build on your sewing skills and introduce you to the exciting world of dressmaking. This class is perfect for new
dressmakers looking to make their first garment. Materials included. Cost: £60
Book yourself in to one of this month’s top workshops and expand your sewing horizons!
summer. The first project is a sleepover PJ bag with toothbrush pocket. Other projects include an elasticated skirt, pencil case with a zip and a monster softie. Materials included. Cost: £15- £18 Friday 11th August
Start as you mean to sew on Learn to use a sewing machine in this introductory class for complete beginners to machine sewing and make a needle case and envelope cushion to show off your new skills! Materials included. Cost: £40
11TH AUGUST Carry-all bag Make this versatile carry all bag, ideal for the gym, weekends away and every day! Materials included. Cost: £60
STARTING 18TH JULY Kids sewing club – for 7-12 years Kids can learn to sew, completing a series of fun projects to learn essential new skills. Six individual projects are timetabled each Tuesday over the
9TH SEPTEMBER Knitting with beads We will be making a small knitted purse with beads and a little bit of colour work. Materials provided but you will need to bring your own needles. Cost: £35
7TH OCTOBER Origami candle wreath
KNIT WITS & FABRICS
This is an amazing store with everything you need for sewing, knitting, crochet and more. Friendly, helpful staff are always on hand to offer advice or assistance. See the website for details of weekly sewing, knitting and crochet classes. www.knitwitsdereham.co.uk 01362 652961
Looking forward to Christmas we will be making a beautiful centrepiece – a fairly simple make with a definite wow factor. Materials provided. Cost: £35
2ND DECEMBER Cathedral window tree decorations With a view to the festive season, you will make tree decorations using the cathedral window technique, excellent as emergency last-minute presents. All fabric provided. Cost: £35
4TH NOVEMBER Sewing accessory set Make a scissor case to take three pairs and a ‘bit bag’ (to hang over the edge of your desk to catch spare thread) with a pincushion. All fabric provided. Cost: £35
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9TH & 16TH AUGUST Lottie dress The perfect summer outfit in one, Lottie is Sew Over It's new button-up dress. Learn how to finish a neckline with bias binding and how to stitch perfect buttonholes. Cost: £99
10TH & 17TH AUGUST Alex shirtdress Shirtdresses are so flattering, and perfect for any time of year. Learn to sew your own in this shirtdress-for-beginners class. you'll learn how to sew a collar, buttonholes and sleeves. Cost: £99
5TH & 6TH AUGUST
SEW OVER IT
Clapham and Islington
Sew Over It is an online fabric shop with two branches in London. It sells a range of gorgeous dressmaking fabric, plus the hugely popular range of sewing patterns! www.sewoverit.co.uk 0207 326 0376
Dressmaking weekend A fun, comprehensive introduction to dressmaking. Perfect for complete dressmaking newbies, you’ll learn to make a skirt and a shift dress in just two days! Cost: £195
8TH, 15TH & 22ND AUGUST Coco jacket Take your dressmaking skills to the next level. Make a Chanel-inspired jacket with all the couture trimmings, with the help of the expert teachers. Cost: £150
28TH AUGUST 24TH JULY Basic beginner’s bag Get to know your machine, make a bag, learning how to sew pockets, attach bias binding and lining. Materials included. Cost: £20
Crazy cushions Make your own cushion. A variety of techniques of how to make cushions. Cotton poplin fabric and zip included. Cost: £45
7TH AUGUST Patchwork for beginners
SEW NEW LTD
The Fairway, Northallerton, DL7 8AY
This fabulous new independent sewing store offers workshops in dressmaking, sewing of all types and patchwork. It stocks fabric, haberdashery and sewing machines. The experienced staff can help and the kettle is always on. www.sewnew.co.uk Facebook: Sew New Ltd
Learn the basics of how to cut and sew basic blocks. Materials provided. Special starter equipment packs available in the shop. Cost: £45
21ST AUGUST Skirt workshop Make a basic skirt. Fabric and lining and zips available to buy. Basic sewing skills needed. Cost: £55
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Phil Collins Fine Furniture Bespoke Cabinet Maker
We make all of our furniture by hand • Sewing Cabinets with a lift for machines, made in solid wood or wood veneer • Sewing Tables & Cutting Out Tables • Sewing Boxes All of our pieces are made to your own size and specification Please see our website for all of our furniture
Temptations Craft Boutique An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters 100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting Knitting yarn and haberdashery Courses and workshops Agents for Brother Sewing Machines Visit our shop or buy safely online 31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ Tel: 015242 61868 www.temptationsbentham.co.uk For shop opening times please see our website
Molly Felicity Designs original designs made with you in mind Like our fabrics but want to make something yourself? Molly Felicity Designs are now offering vintage inspired fabrics and prints so you can create something wonderful yourself
Fabric - Haberdashery - Workshops - Yarn Sewing Machines & Overlockers Ely: 7 High Street Passage, Ely, CB7 4NB Tel: 01353 664000 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Bury St. Edmunds: 23 Hatter Street, Bury St Edmunds, IP33 1NE Tel: 01284 755459 Email: email@example.com
BOOK OF THE MONTH
IN THE GOOD
BOOKS Our pick of this month’s new sewing and dressmaking books
Use Scraps, Sew Blocks, Make 100 Quilts By Stuart Hillard. Photographs by Rachel Whiting. £20 Pavilion. Available 3rd August
Tell us what inspired you to write your newest book I’m a quilter in my heart and in my soul! Ever since I made my first piece of patchwork 40 years ago I’ve been fascinated by quilt making and, in particular, scrap quilting. My style is very eclectic and broad so I relished the opportunity to bring 100 quilt patterns to life that would cover all the styles I love piecing, appliqué, modern and traditional. Any favourite quilts in the book? I’m in love with Covent Garden, it’s scrappy, modern, masculine and contains some of my favourite colours. The book was inspired by wall tiles in the tube station. I was struck by how smart they
COUTURE CHIC Take your sewing to the next level with this wonderfully detailed index of embellishment and fashion inspiration. Creating Couture Embellishment by Ellen W. Miller is available for £50 at www.laurenceking.com
would look made into a quilt. Inspiration can come in many forms! Did you ever imagine on Sewing Bee that you would go on to write your own books? Taking part in The Sewing Bee was one very important step along the way to becoming a published author. I'd designed for quilting magazines and knew how to write a pattern but didn't imagine I'd end up working with some of the biggest publishers in the industry! Sew Fabulous has been a bestseller and now I’m looking forward to this new book.
Do you have any top tips for dressmakers looking to turn their hand to patchwork and quilting? Dressmakers tend to be a little looser with their cutting and the precision comes when we sew and fit the garment. For a patchwork quilt the accuracy starts the minute you take the fabric
GET ORGANISED Use your sewing skills to create a host of fabric boxes, pincushions, pouches and stylish cases to hold your supplies with Stitched Sewing Organizers by Aneela Hoey. £22.99 from www.ctpub.com
home, press it and cut it very accurately, either with a rotary cutter and ruler or specially made dies and templates. The best way to achieve success is with a purpose-made patchwork foot. Pure cotton fabric is the easiest to work with, and pin, pin, pin!
Are you looking forward to catching up with your fellow contestants at Sewing Bee Live? I’m looking forward to meeting up with some of my Sewing Bee friends; many of us from the first series have kept in touch. I’ve had the pleasure of working with contestants from later series like Jenniffer Taylor and Charlotte Newland. It will be good to see Patrick Grant again too. So what can we expect from you next? I’ve got a fabric range coming out in September, which will be available on Create and Craft TV and in Hobbycraft stores nationwide. I'm super excited about that and, of course, I will be travelling around promoting this book!
QUICK QUILTS The nine patch is one of the first blocks many quilters learn and it offers a world of creative options! Learn over 20 new designs to reinvent this classic block in The Versatile Nine Patch by Joan Ford. £21.99 from www.tauntonpress.com
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WING it Feel as free as a bird with our embroidered clock tutorial and add a tropical touch to any room Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER
HOW TO MAKE: MATERIALS & TOOLS â€˘ fat quarter background fabric for appliquĂŠ â€˘ fat quarter fabric for clock backing â€˘ red, blue, turquoise, green, tan & brown fabric scraps â€˘ thick card (chipboard type, not corrugated) â€˘ craft knife â€˘ awl â€˘ clock kit with gold hands (the shank on the clock movement should be approximately 1.5cm so it can go through the layers of cardboard & fabric) â€˘ co-ordinating thread â€˘ air-erasable marker â€˘ glue stick â€˘ craft glue or hot-glue gun â€˘ medium embroidery hoop (optional) â€˘ darning foot â€˘ template downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
NOTES Seam allowances are 0.5cm unless otherwise stated
Begin by cutting two octagons from the card; one 30cm in diameter and one 25cm in diameter. Find the centre of the smaller octagon and poke a hole in it. Do the same on the larger octagon. Anything sharp and round will do for this â€“ I used an awl. The hole needs to be the same size as the shank on the clock movement. Using the glue stick, apply glue to the smaller octagon and cover it with the fabric that you put aside for backing the clock, making sure it is centred. Trim the fabric roughly, leaving a decent amount free.
Fold over the edges of the fabric and glue. Neatly fold or pleat the corners to ensure they lie perfectly flat. Continue around until the octagon is covered. Make a hole through the fabric in the centre using a small craft knife or scissors. The back is now assembled and you can put it aside to dry. Take the fat quarter intended for the front, in this case the denim, and on the RS trace the larger octagon template at the middle of the fabric using air-erasable marker. This shows where to place the appliquĂŠ. With WST place the denim with the wadding and baste or pin the edges together.
This layer gives your machine something to 'bite' into when embroidering, making the job much easier! Roughly mark the position of the bird and the leaves and also the clock centre using the fabric marker. Cut the appliquĂŠ pieces using the template as a guide and use the glue stick to position them onto the fabric, beginning with the leaves, then the bird and finally another leaf layered over the top. See the finished clock for reference. Set up your machine for free-motion embroidery. Any modern machine can handle this but consult your manual for specifics. You will need to
Debbie von Grabler-Crozier
Debbie is a talented maker and also the author of forthcoming book The Bag Boutique available this autumn. For an extra dose of craftiness, check out Debbie's blog at www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk where she shares tutorials, tips and techniques!
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This clock would make a fun addition to a child's room, or be equally at home in your sewing room
FREE Get started with free-motion embroidery using these easy tips You’ll need to locate the feed dog controls on your machine. This is to lower the metal teeth that protrude from the needle plate and feed your fabric under the needle. It is also called the drop feed due to the way the teeth disappear between stitches. The lever or dial is often hidden from view by the accessories tray but can also be at the back of the free arm bed. You are in control of the stitch pattern and can move the fabric in any direction to scribble on top with your needle. Keep the fabric flat by placing your hands on each side. If you’re feeling nervous you can trace a design onto tissue paper, layer in on top of your work then trace the lines. Simply rip away the paper once you’re done.
lower the feed dogs, which are located in different places depending on your make of machine, and set the stitch length to zero. I like to use an embroidery hoop placed on the fabric upside down to help the embroidery as it makes steering easier! Using the template as a guide, stitch the details onto the bird and leaves using co-ordinating thread for each portion of the design. Play around with texture and don’t make all of your lines too straight. It’s a lot of thread changing but it is worth it as this gives a totally different look to single colour thread. Identify
Using different colours of thread when creating free-motion embroidery adds dimension and texture!
areas with the same colour and do all of them before changing thread. It helps to draw in the details with a removable marker! Snip the loose thread ends away and generally tidy up the embroidery. Trim the wadding back to the size of the disc and roughly trim the denim too, ensuring
that you have enough edge to fold over. With the glue stick, adhere the embroidered front to the card and, once again, snip, fold and glue the fabric so that it covers the edge. When you glue the overhanging fabric, work in turn on opposite sides, gently stretching as you go so that the fabric on the front is nice and taut. Gently poke the centre hole in the front for the clock mechanism. With WST, hot-glue the front of the clock to the back, carefully lining the holes up. Attach the clock mechanism from the back to finish.
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c i t s a t n a f y Simpl ABOUT
Kerry Kerry Green is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks and is a contributor to many other books and magazines. Find sewing tips, free tutorials, patterns and more at Kerryâ€™s blog www. verykerryberry.blogspot.co.uk
This light and bright mix of prints is guaranteed to raise a smile
he stunning Floret collection by Leah Duncan for Cloud9 Fabrics is at the heart of this monthâ€™s swatch selection. Itâ€™s a small range of six summery floral prints on 100% organic cotton batiste â€“ a soft, lightweight and slightly sheer cotton fabric similar to lawn. Leah also designed the pretty Dew on Grass print as part of her Morning Walk collection for Art Gallery Fabrics, so itâ€™s no surprise that these colours play so nicely together! The Clementine orange solid provides extra zest and the Valencia metallic adds depth and a little sparkle. Iâ€™ve included a wide variety of fabric weights: lawn, batiste, poplin, quilting cotton and a linen/cotton blend; all are suitable for craft, quilt and garment making. I chose a fan quilt block to showcase the gorgeous florals and the colour contrasts between the light, dark and bright fabric.
Thereâ€™s a free download and full instructions at: www.allpeoplequilt.com/quilt-patterns/quilt-blocks/fan-block-quilt-block
Cloud9 Fabrics Floret, Poppy Mum organic cotton batiste by Leah Duncan, ÂŁ5 per FQ, www.fabrichq.co.uk Robert Kaufman Friedlander Wasabi cotton lawn by Carolyn Friedlander, ÂŁ3.75 per FQ, www.fabrichq.co.uk Michael Miller Painterâ€™s Canvas, Valencia Metallic, ÂŁ3.45 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk Robert Kaufman Chambray Essex Yarn Dyed 55% linen 45% cotton, ÂŁ3.70 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk Art Gallery Fabrics Morning Walk, Dew on Grass Imagined by Leah Duncan, ÂŁ3 per FQ, www.misformake.co.uk Cloud9 Fabrics Floret, Sepal organic cotton batiste by Leah Duncan, ÂŁ5 per FQ, www.fabrichq.co.uk Cloud9 Fabrics Cirrus Solids, Clementine yarn dyed broadcloth, ÂŁ4 per FQ, www.misformake.co.uk Makower Forest Talk, Buds Green, ÂŁ3.10 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk
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The worldâ€™s most innovative fabrics
Linton Tweeds design and weave luxury fabrics for the worldâ€™s most exclusive fashion houses See our website for the Linton Direct collection Use discount code
www.lintondirect.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 59
This month, we’re taking a closer peek at three Bernina machines
BEST FOR BEGINNERS
BERNINA 215 Whether you’re new to sewing or want to upgrade your machine, the 215 is a brilliant all-rounder. It provides a great introduction to computerised sewing, with an LCD screen, 12 built-in stitches and the capability to select and change stitch length and width at the touch of a button. It delivers hassle-free sewing, even with heavier fabric, and stitches smoothly and with great control at up to 900 stitches per minute. Included with this stylish little machine are five different presser feet, and the variable needle position allows you to do everything from sewing zips into your garments to inserting piping into cushions, with no fuss at all.
BEST FOR CREATIVE SEWING
BERNINA 330 Time to put your sewing skills to work and get creative! With an exceptional long-term memory, the Bernina 330 allows you to create and store 30 of your own stitches, so you can simply select and go when you’re ready to change stitch. This is especially helpful for sewing classes, when you might be taught new combinations and have forgotten to bring a notebook to jot them down. As well as being an excellent time saver, this machine features an LED sewing light with a glare-free illumination of your working area, which is perfect for long sewing sessions or for night owls who like to keep sewing until it's finished!
£650 BEST FOR ALL-ROUND SEWING
BERNINA 530 The entry-level model of the Bernina 5 Series is an impressive machine, enabling you to sew, quilt and embellish almost any project. It contains 22 practical stitches, 105 decorative stitches (12 designed for quilting), four alphabets and seven buttonholes and an eyelet. The touch-screen technology is simple to navigate, providing a world of stitching options at your fingertips and it’s packed with helpful advice, such as tips for sewing with knits and wovens. You can also personalise and store your stitch patterns and settings, so you can easily pick up your sewing where you left off. It's a brilliant investment for frequent sewists.
UND ER £
60 machine review.indd 60
A case for
PENCILS The classic wiggle skirt is given a modern twist with an exposed zipper closing and bold floral print Project CLAIRE GARSIDE
Garden Variety in Orange barkcloth, Cloud9 Fabrics, see www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist
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OPEN OUT FABRIC
SIZING CHART 8
44â€? OPEN OUT FABRIC
â€˘ 1.5m 45"-wide or 1m 60"-wide fabric â€˘ 9" closed end metal zipper â€˘ co-ordinating thread â€˘ templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS â€˘ Tweed, bouclĂŠ, coating, denim, cotton, linen, satin, bamboo silk, double crepe â€˘ Allow extra fabric for one-way designs Mark and then sew the front and back darts into place, pressing towards the centre. When working with barkcloth you may find it easier to mark with tailor's tacks, as Check the fit of the skirt chalk is before you begin by easily lost in pinning together a tissue the texture. paper version of the With pattern pieces RST pin and then sew the front to the back skirt panels at the side seams. Again, finish your
MATERIALS & TOOLS
seam allowances as barkcloth is prone to fraying and press the seams open. Fuse interfacing to the WS of the waistband, and at the lower edge turn up 0.5cm and press firmly. Pin the waistband to the top of the skirt with the raw edges aligned and RST. Sew in place and press the seam allowance upwards. If you wish you can top-stitch a few mm above the seam line to secure the seam allowances to the waistband. Press the waistband in half RST lengthways to make a visible crease. Install the exposed zipper following the tutorial (right), sewing the centre back seam to the vent marking. Fold the waistband WST along the crease and tuck under the raw edges in line with the zipper tape. Slip-stitch to the skirt for an invisible finish from the outside. Press back the seam allowance for the skirt vent. Top-stitch around the vent opening to secure. Hem the skirt using a blind hem foot or a prick stitch for an invisible finish to match the waistband.
Simple Sew patterns offers British-designed sewing patterns in printed and PDF formats. See the full range, take a peek at what the blogger team has been making and find helpful tutorials and tips at www.simplesewpatterns.com
LS42 pp61-63 pencil skirt V2.indd 62
EXPOSED ZIPS Learn how to create a polished and eye-catching closure that can be applied to any skirt or dress 1 Begin by fusing a narrow strip of interfacing to each side of the centre back opening where the zip will be positioned. These should be slightly larger than the zip, say 1x10”. Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. 2 On the WS of the skirt backs, mark the zipper placement at the centre back by drawing boxes that are 10” long and 7/8” wide, starting at crease you made in your waistband. 3 Use a long basting stitch to sew over your drawn lines. Then clip in towards the corners at a 45˚ angle, taking care not to snip the stitching line. (See Pic A.) Then press back the edges WST along the basting. 4 Place the skirt backs RST, aligning the horizontal basting stitches. Sew a 5/8” seam below the opening. It’s correct that the seams don’t match up as the horizontal stitching is only 7/8” wide. Press the seam open. (See Pic B.) 5 You’ll see a rectangular window appears above the back
horizontal basting stitches. Only stitch the length of the basting stitches, not the whole width of the zipper tape. (See Pic C.) 6 Flip the zipper up and arrange it into the
window, aligning the folded edges alongside the zipper tape. Hand-tack in position then switch to a zipper foot on your machine and sew in place.
seam. On the RS place the zipper RS down with the end metal stopper sitting just below the horizontal stitches, at the base of the window. Sew the zipper in place by sewing along the
RS SEW ON TOP OF THE BASTING
SNIP TO CORNER A
LS42 pp61-63 pencil skirt V2.indd 63
The Old Stables 17-23 Poplar Road Kings Heath Birmingham B14 7AA T: 0121 443 5555 E: firstname.lastname@example.org
Three ways to buy - online
or visit the shop
Lots of honest, helpful and friendly advice. Over 80 sewing machines and overlockers on show, ready for demonstration. We stock Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Juki and Singer machines. We have an extensive range of Horn cabinets and chairs on display. We also do machine accessories, software, dress forms and workshops. Free customer car park
BECCLES SEWING & HANDICRAFTS • Celebrating 50 years trading, 1967 - 2017 • Sewing machine trade association member • Sewing machines, embroidery machines, overlockers (Free unlimited tuition on all our new machines) • Brother, Janome, Juki, Babylock • Sewing machine repairs & servicing • 0% Finance available on Brother embroidery machines • Dressmaking, quilting and craft fabrics • Haberdashery Follow us on Facebook for hints & tips, projects, videos etc. (beccles sewing and handicrafts)
15a Blyburgate, Beccles, Suffolk, NR34 9TB 01502 714 234
Weâ€™ve teamed up with Janome to offer one lucky reader this amazing Janome Atelier 5 computerised sewing machine The latest computerised sewing machine from Janome is designed to meet every sewing challenge! The generous arm length and space to the left and right of the needle makes this ideal for bigger projects, while still remaining suited to the precision sewing required on delicate patterns. You can even buy one of three optional kits to tailor the machine perfectly to you, whether you enjoy quilting, home furnishings or fashion sewing.
Key features of the machine include: Fully computerised, 170 built-in stitches, maximum speed controller, auto one-step buttonholes, auto thread cutter, easy-set bobbin and many more!
Renowned for its reliability, quality, and affordable prices, Janome is the brand leader in the UK with an extensive range of sewing machines and overlockers suited to every level. Enter today for your chance to win this amazing machine! To browse the full range of machines and to find your local stockist, check out www.janome.co.uk
ENTER TODAY Visit www.ppjump.com/lovesewing42 and enter your details for your chance to this competition and our other giveaways featured this month. Competition closes 17th August 2017. Winners will be notified by email. Competition only open to UK residents. www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 65
LS42 pp65 Giveaways.indd 65
Enter the Love Over Sewing pattern 100 vault lucky dip to win We have a HUGE selection of great patterns taken from the Love Sewing pattern vault to give away this issue! Dresses, tops, skirts, blouses and bundles are all up for grabs from some of our favourite pattern houses, including Simple Sew and Threadcount! Choose your size when entering online and enter into the lucky dip for a pretty sewing surprise!
Thread collections from Gütermann With denim on-trend and available in a variety of shades, this Jeans Thread Pack is a must have for denim lovers! We have four assortment packs to give away, including three 100m spools of Extra Strong Thread and two 200m spools of Jeans Thread in five colours. Email gütermann@ stockistenquiries. co.uk for stockist information.
HOW TO ENTER
For a chance to win any of this issue’s giveaways, enter your details along with the names of the products you would like to win at www.ppjump.com/
lovesewing42 T&Cs: By entering these competitions, you accept that your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities. Closing date 17th August 2017
Make your own bra!
Learn how to make a beautiful bra for yourself using delicate fabric in a fun two-day workshop, which includes a bra kit, pattern and good company, at Sew Easy in Bristol. We have one place on a workshop to give away this issue, and the winner can choose when to attend. Go to www.seweasybristol.com to find out more.
HUNDREDS OF METRES OF RIBBON FROM FANTASTIC RIBBONS
£140 We have two stylish ribbon storage boxes to give away, complete with 34 rolls of spring-themed ribbon from Tattered Lace, including bright neons, classic prints, rickrack and more – that’s over 450m of ribbon! The box has five large holes on the front and back, perfect for feeding ribbon out of as and when you need it, and the ribbon spools are quick and easy to replace. Pay a visit to www.fantasticribbons.com to shop its full range of ribbon and more!
LS42 pp65 Giveaways.indd 66
GO TO STITCHING, SEWING & HOBBYCRAFTS
4 0 to win Lace and the Lady bra kits
We have 20 pairs of tickets to give away to both the Exeter and Manchester venue. These everpopular shows, taking place in September of this year, are filled with must-have craft supplies, demonstrations, workshops and a wealth of inspiration for all crafters. Enter online, stating your preferred show, and head to www.thecraftshows.co.uk for more details.
From Sew Easy, Bristol we have two packs of beautiful lace, fabric and trim to give away, perfect for creating a custom-made bra. Visit www.seweasybristol.com to see the full range of colours available, and to book yourself onto a fun workshop, including knicker making, dressmaking and more.
Buy any sewing pattern at www. craftstash.co.uk/ sewing and receive an exclusive code to get 50% off any previous issue of Love Sewing! Simply enter code ILOVESEWING on your next pattern purchase and you will be sent a promo code to save on your next magazine purchase! Offer excludes current issue of Love Sewing
Kits do not include patterns or underwires.
e iv s u l c x E 1 2 DISCOUNTS to w in
on your shopping at www.threadheadfabrics.co.uk with code LOVESEWING20 Offers expires 17th August 2017
SAVE 20% on Simplicity patterns at www.jaycotts.co.uk when you enter code LOVESIMPLICITY Offer expires 24th August 2017
Sewing accessories giveaway from Clover Make sewing easy and fun again with these great tools from Clover! Update your wardrobe and home with flower embellishments using easy Flower Frill templates, or why not decorate some bunting or make a new hair accessory? And an essential in every dressmaker’s work basket, the new selection of tailor’s awls are perfect for punching holes and pushing out corners on a variety of projects! We have nine templates and three sets of awls to give away this issue. Please email email@example.com for stockist information.
SAVE 25% on Vogue 9251 when you call 0344 880 1263, quoting LOVESEWING42 before 17th August 2017 Cannot be redeemed online. P&P charges still apply
£3 OFF tickets to www.westcountryquiltshow. co.uk with code PP7 when booking in advance
SAVE 10% on your shopping at www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk when you enter code Sew37 Offer ends 1st August 2017
LS42 pp65 Giveaways.indd 67
summer sewing patterns
sets to win!
Weâ€™ve teamed up with The McCall Pattern company to bring five lucky winners this collection of summer essential patterns! Build your seasonal wardrobe with a classic pleated wrap dress in pretty gingham, a light kimonostyle jacket and a choice of six different shorts designs! Find Butterick 6446, Kwik Sew 4208, Vogue 9008 and many more patterns at www.sewdirect.com
For a chance to win, enter your details at www.ppjump.com/lovesewing42 68 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
LS42 pp68 Win 3 Patterns.indd 68
By entering, you accept that your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities. Closing date 17th August 2017
T H E
S T Y L I S H
G U I D E
D R E S S M A K I N G
ISSUE 10 ON SALE
SIENNA DRESS PYJAMA PATTERN
ON-TREND DOUBLE-FRILL TOP
R’S JENNIFFER TAYLO KIMONO DRESS
DITSY FLORAL BACKPACK
GIRLS’ PLAYTIME PIXEL DRESS
SAVE £2 OFF THE LATEST ISSUE OF SEW NOW Please complete this voucher using BLOCK CAPITALS and hand it to your retailer at the time of purchase to receive £2 off the cover price of Sew Now magazine (issue 10, July 2017). This offer is valid until 27th July 2017. This voucher may only be redeemed against a single copy of Sew Now magazine (Issue 10 only). Not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Vouchers are non-transferable and are not valid outside the UK. Full name ____________________________________________________________________________________ Postcode ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Email address _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ If you would like to be signed up to the Sew Now mailing list to receive exclusive offers, information about the magazine and free patterns, please tick this box To the Retailer: Sew Now magazine thanks you for accepting this voucher. Please return it within 42 days of receipt (valid until 7th September 2017) to your wholesaler to receive £2 plus a handling charge. Notice: This voucher is non-transferable. Accepting it in lieu of payment for any other article constitutes fraud. To the Wholesaler: Your head office will have received prior notice of this promotion. Please credit the retailer in the normal way plus handling fee and forward your claim and actual voucher ASAP to arrive no later than 19th October 2017 to VR Ltd, PO Box 444, Basildon, Essex SS14 3HF
MATERIALS & TOOLS FOR POUCH â€˘ assorted patchwork cotton scraps â€˘ Â˝ yard striped accent fabric â€˘ 9Âžx13Âž" wadding â€˘ 10" zipper â€˘ set of 4" internal wire bag frames â€˘ 4 Âžâ€? diameter covered buttons â€˘ cardstock (for English paper piecing templates)
PERFECT Bag making is so much fun and these retro hexie designs use the English paper piecing technique, which can be quite addictive! Project AKEMI SHIBATA
FOR PURSE â€˘ assorted patchwork cotton scraps â€˘ 1â „4 yard print fabric for lining â€˘ 6x133â „4" cotton wadding â€˘ 2x4" sew-in metal purse clasp â€˘ 45 3mm pearl beads â€˘ cardstock (for English paper piecing templates) â€˘ co-ordinating thread â€˘ hand-sewing needles â€˘ templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
CUTTING: FOR PURSE Using the templates, cut the following fabric pieces, adding 1â „4" seam allowance: â€˘ 66 hexie pieces of assorted scraps â€˘ 2 purses of lining fabric FOR POUCH Using the templates, cut the following fabric pieces, adding 1â „4" seam allowance: â€˘ 40 hexie pieces of assorted scraps â€˘ 4 covered buttons in assorted scraps â€˘ 4Â˝â€? square accent fabric for the base â€˘ 4Â˝x8Â˝â€? accent fabric for the back â€˘ 211â „8x9" bias strips in accent fabric
NOTES: Use a Âź" seam allowance unless instructed otherwise
HOW TO MAKE: POUCH Make the pouch front using the EPP guide on page 71. Trim the front into a 4Â˝x8Â˝â€? rectangle. With RST, sew the bottom to the front, then sew the back to the bottom. Cut a lining in the shape of the completed outer shell. Place the lining and outer RST. Layer a piece of wadding underneath next to the outer. Sew through all three layers, leaving both ends open. Turn RS out and stitch in the ditch around each hexagon. Quilt the bottom and back with 1â „2â€? squares.
ABOUT THE BOOK
Quilted Bags & Gifts by Akemi Shibata, ÂŁ12.99, Search Press
Fold the bag in half RST. Whip-stitch together at the sides, through the outer fabric only. Align the side seams with the bottom fold and whipstitch to mitre the corners. Fold each bias strip short edge over 1â „2â€? twice and top-stitch using 1â „8" seam allowance. With RST, sew bias strips to pouch top along the opening. Fold the bias strips to the inside of the pouch and hemstitch to the lining as the casing for the internal wire frame. Hem-stitch the zipper to the pouch opening. Sew the two sides of the zipper together at the end. Make the
LS42 pp70-71 hexie bag.indd 70
MASTERCLASS covered buttons and attach to the zipper ends. Insert each section of the internal wire frame through the casing. PURSE 8 Make the purse front and back using the English paper piecing technique. 9 Align the lining and front with RST. Layer a piece of wadding underneath. Sew, leaving an opening to turn RS out. Repeat for the back. Use the template to trim the front and back into shape, making sure to leave 1/4â€? seam allowance. Turn each piece RS out and hem-stitch the opening
closed. Sew the darts (refer to template for placement). Hem-stitch dart seam allowances to lining. Stitch in the ditch around each hexagon. Sew the beads to each hexagon corner on the front only. Align the front and back with RST. Whip-stitch together, stitching through the top fabric only. Leave the top of the purse open. Turn right side out. Align the centres and insert into the opened metal clasp. Starting from the centre and working toward each edge, back-stitch to the clasp using two strands of thread.
LS42 pp70-71 hexie bag.indd 71
D S N I AM H E BE E S TH
With Wendy Ward
PRINT your own FABRIC
Is creating your own custom-made fabric the way to achieve the ultimate me-made wardrobe?
PART 1: GO LOW TECH & PRINT IT YOURSELF
f you follow me online you may have seen my recent forays into fabric printing. It started with a one-day course exploring methods that can be recreated at home, such as block printing, and was closely followed by a traditional hands-on screen-printing course at the end of last year, which I absolutely loved. The act of making is always an important part of any creative process for me, so mixing paint and getting my hands dirty was all part of the appeal. Some of the printing I did on this course even made it into sample garments for my new book! SO WHY BOTHER WITH DIY FABRIC? If you’re anything like me, you might be ridiculously fussy about printed fabric and find it hard to source prints that you really love. For a control freak like me, printing my own is the perfect solution. If you sew a lot for others, using a customised fabric in a special gift is a really nice personal touch for the recipient. You can use a design or motif that has a special meaning to the recipient or that they’re particularly fond of. I’m sure we all know someone who goes ga-ga over anything with a cat print on it!
It’s also the perfect way to print your own fabric labels, and ideal for that little finishing touch for your own makes or gifts or to add a professional finish to your makes if you are selling at craft fairs, shows or local markets. TECHNIQUES FOR PRINTING AT HOME Here are some easy fabric printing techniques to try at home: Stencilling using freezer paper can create really crisp edges to your print and give a level of finish almost comparable to screen printing for simple shapes. It’s cheap and easy to use, and its only drawback is that your prepared stencil will only stick properly to your fabric
once (twice if you’re really lucky!) Have a look on my blog for a stepby-step tutorial, including a free fox downloadable template, to recreate this print (go to www.wendyward.co.uk and search 'printing with freezer paper'). Block printing can give a lovely, organic feel to a print, depending how accurately you carve the block and apply the paint. You can get started really easily and inexpensively at home with shapes cut from craft foam mounted onto card. That’s how I created these prints. You can also create your block from polystyrene sheets, or using lino-cutting and rubber-carving techniques, I’ve even found make-up sponges work well as impromptu printing blocks! This method lends itself much better to
72 Behind the seams.indd 72
Visit my blog to find tutorials and more examples of printing
I spent seven years working in the fashion industry before moving to teach dressmaking from my own studio, MIY Workshop, in Brighton. MIY Collection is my range of easy-to-follow modern sewing patterns. I have also written two books about dressmaking; A Beginner’s Guide to Making Skirts and The Beginner’s Guide to Dressmaking. Both available from all good bookshops. www.wendyward.co.uk www.miycollection.com www.miyworkshop.co.uk
all-over patterns and multiple prints than stencilling with freezer paper does, just as long as you look after your original block. Mono printing is a really low-tech method that can produce lovely painterly effects. Fabric paint is applied to a flat surface like a sheet of plastic, Perspex or glass. The marks made by the applicator (paintbrush, sponge etc) will be transferred onto the fabric. The fabric is placed on top of the painted surface (you can also place stencils or objects in between the fabric and painted surface to leave negative spaces).
Block printing with card can create an organic design
Screen printing with paper stencils is an easy way to screen-print without the need to have a design permanently fixed to the screen. Simply arrange paper stencils or even objects on your fabric, then pull the screen-printing ink through the screen and you have an instant design.
If you like a good book to get you started and full of inspiration, here are some I’ve used:
• Printing by Hand: A Modern
Guide to Printing with Handmade Stamps, Stencils, and Silk Screens by Lena Corwin
GET INSPIRED So, what you need to get started is probably just a bit of inspiration for designs. Have a look at the work of Sarah Golden, aka Maker Maker, Lu Summers and Jen Hewett to get you started. Make a Pinterest board of ideas, have a look at designs on wrapping paper, wallpaper and greetings cards as starting points, then start creating your own simple designs. Nature can often be the best source of inspiration, so have a go at creating simple Lino cutting is a great leaf and flower shapes to get started.
technique for crisp details
72 Behind the seams.indd 73
WAY'S TO GET STARTED
Creativebug has some great introductory classes on how to start printing your own fabric (www. creativebug.com). If block printing is what you fancy, US textile artist Jen Hewett (www.jenhewett.com) specialises in block printing and regularly runs a popular online class called Design, Carve, Print.
Traditional screen printing, where your design is fixed onto the screen, can still be done at home if you have space and don’t want to use a large screen. You can use a paint-on 'filler' to create your design on the screen, or some print companies will create a customised screen for you if you send your design (www.handprinted. co.uk offers this service).
Next time, I’ll be looking at the growth in on-demand digital fabric printing.
ABOUT WENDY WARD
• Art Cloth: A Guide to
Surface Design for Fabric by Jane Dunnewold
• Screen Printing at Home: Print
your own fabric to make simple sewn projects by Karen Lewis
• Fabric Printing at Home: Quick
and Easy Fabric Design Using Fresh Produce and Found Objects - Includes Print Blocks, Textures, Stencils, Resists, and More by Julie B. Booth
Support your local sewing shop F REE Pattern & Booka zine Offer
VISIT YOUR LOCAL SHOP TO CLAIM YOUR FREE GIFTS
To claim your free gifts, spend £15 in any of our participating stores and then choose one beginner-friendly Simple Sew pattern and a copy of Bagmaking Essentials, packed with inspirational designs and must-have accessories! ABERGAVENNY
Banbury Sewing Centre 57 Parsons Street, Banbury, Oxon OX16 5NB
firstname.lastname@example.org Black Mountain Fabric is a family run, patchwork specialist fabric store located in Abergavenny - the gateway to Wales. We stock an eclectic collection of 100% cottons, wool felt, dressmaking fabric and a selection of haberdashery 29 Cross Street, Abergavenny, NP7 5EW 01873 858827 www.blackmountainfabric.co.uk
Open 9-5 Mon-Sat
Birmingham City Centre Sewing Studio & Tuition
Supplying fabrics, including designer and haberdashery. Knitting & Crochet yarns and accessories. Lace, trims and lots of exciting things! Watch this space... classes starting soon!
212 The Jubilee Centre, 120 Pershore Street, Birmingham B5 6ND Fabric and Haberdashery Shop specialising in amazing jerseys and luxury cotton lawns. Dashwood Jerseys now in stock Tel 07917 536 220 www.sewcoolandcrafty.co.uk
Telephone orders welcome. 01295 262344
COLOURS OF THE RAINBOW
T: 01388 662977 2C Fore Bondgate, Bishop Auckland DL14 7PF
A sewing emporium for all your creative needs
Fabric, Patterns, Books, Magazines, Needles & Pins, Thread, Sewing Classes & Sewing Bees
Fabulous fabrics, workshops, sewing machines, yarn, & haberdashery!
Quilting, Dressmaking, Craft Fabrics, all new to Carlisle!
OPENING HOURS Weds, Thurs, Fri: 9.30am-2.30pm Sat: 9.30am-4.30pm
Check our website, on-line shop NOW LIVE!
Classes & Workshops available
www.thesewingshopcanterbury.co.uk 01227 457 723 19 Sun Street, Canterbury, Kent, CT1 2HX
Tel 01228 597351 129 Denton Street, Carlisle CA2 5EN
CHEPSTOW 17 Moor Street, Chepstow, NP16 5DB
15 Market Street, Cinderford, Gloucestershire, GL14 2RT 01594 825 385 Visit us in the Forest of Dean for all of your sewing and alteration needs. We have a growing selection of fabric, haberdashery, sewing patterns, and more! We are now holding sewing lessons for all levels of skill! If you’d like to learn how to create beautiful items for your home, please contact us for details!
01291 627 056 www.thesewingshopchepstow.com Cotton dress and quilting fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Gutermann. Teaching in small groups for beginners and more experienced, dress making, zips, and more!
Knit Wits & Fabrics
For all your sewing, quilting, and haberdashery requirements. 1000's fabrics and patterns, classes weekly. Plus knitting and crochet too.
Spend £15.00 on fabric and get 100m Guttermann thread free, just produce this ad! 28a High Street, Dereham, Norfolk, NR19 1DR 01362 652 961 www.knitwitsdereham.co.uk
For all of your cardmaking, jewellery, knitting, crocheting and sewing needs. 77 High Street Ilfracombe Devon EX34 9NQ Open 6 days a week. ✆ 07976 603823 ✆ 01271 268353
* Gift will be sent directly from Practical Publishing Ltd
FREE GIFTS WORTH £18*
Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk #32 Grace Dress envelope
1 Tea dress envelope OL.indd
2 FREE GIFTS 18/03/2016 13:52
Claim your FREE Simple Sew pattern and Bagmaking Essentials bookazine at one of these participating stores* The Fabbadashery
Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings. Craft Workshops Every Week! email@example.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574 10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX
Address............................................................................................................ ......................................................................................................................... ......................................................................................................................... .........................................................................................................................
Badder Fabrics of Hereford
Heidi's Crafts & Fabrics
One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU
patchwork, and crafting work! I do a range of groups and workshops each week. Please contact me for further details. Open 9.00 - 17.00 Closed Thursday and Sunday
183 High Street, Herne Bay, CT6 5AF 07983 310 891 Facebook/heidiscraftsandfabrics
116 Portland Road, Hove, East Sussex BN3 5DN Tel 01273 270 087 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.ohsewditsy.co.uk
Choose your FREE pattern by putting a tick in one box: Amelia Tea Dress
Grace Dress & Skirts
Alexa Midi Dress
We sell a wide range of fabric and haberdashery,ideal for dressmaking,
Tel 01432 379137 Email: email@example.com
Take a look at our gorgeous fabrics. We stock fabric from Inprint at Jane Makower, Makower, Dashwood, AGF and Cloud 9... to name just a few
*Minimum in-store spend of £15 applies. To take advantage of this offer please hand this voucher over the counter with your contact details. Your free pattern and bookazine will be sent directly to you from Practical Publishing Int Ltd. Please ensure all your details are completed in black ink. By taking advantage of this offer you are agreeing to join the Practical Publishing Int Ltd e-newsletter list. You may opt out of this at any time. Your details will not be shared with any third party companies. Please allow 2-4 weeks for your free gifts to arrive. Available while stocks last. UK offer only. Only stores listed on these pages (74-76) of Love Sewing issue 42 are participating in this offer.
Crafty Baba Fabrics 32 St Peters St, Ipswich
Sewing Machines & Craft
Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will ﬁnd exactly what you are looking for. The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA firstname.lastname@example.org Call: 01964 551 955
Brother Sewing Machines with 0% finance over £599.00! Sewing accessories, fat quarters, threads, Bosal foam stabiliser, plus lots more!
Over 1000 lines of fabric & haberdash craftybaba.co.uk Tel 01473 210636
47, SOUTH STREET, KEIGHLEY, WEST YORKSHIRE, BD21 1AD 01535 609466 www.sewingmachinesandcrafts.co.uk
The Fent Shop Huge stock of everything for the needleworker. Established in Kings Lynn over 50 years ago, a real 'Aladdin's cave' of Beautiful and workshops fabrics fabrics and haberdashery. where you will find a warm and 41 Broad Street, Kings Lynn, friendly welcome. Norfolk, PE30 1DP
Unit 66, Basepoint, The Havens, 01553 Ipswich768613 IP3 9BF email@example.com www.thefentshopkingslynn.co.uk 01473 722888
32 Bridge Road, Hampton Court Village, East Molesey, Surrey KT8 9HA
Shop open 7 days a week Designer fabrics, 1000s of bolts, books,Brother notions, sewing machines, haberdashery, buttons & beads and bag making sewing workshops, accessories parties. Classes & Workshops Secure Online Shopping
www.creativequilting.co.uk firstname.lastname@example.org 020 8941 7075
swansea MILFORD ON SEA
A Good Yarn
A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions.
A unique collection quality We run weekly classes andofworkshops. dress fabrics and trims, We also stock wool. based in the New Forest. Our fabrics are all year round with an up No.1 St classics Teilo Street toPontarddulais date twist. Swansea, SA4 8TH
www.timelessfabrics.co.uk 01792 886 986 01590 642 808 email@example.com 48 High Street, Milford on Sea, Lymington, Hampshire, SO41 0QD
The Sew Easy Sewing Shop Need haberdashery in Northwich? Look no further than Sew Easy! We’ve a huge selection of fabric, needlecraft, sewing machines, patterns, and haberdashery products. 80 Witton Street, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 5AE
• Servicing and repairs on all makes and models of sewing machines from £40 • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories • Friendly, knowledgeable service
1 The Broadway, Brighton Road Worthing, BN11 3EG T: 01903 200771 E: firstname.lastname@example.org
A family run business based in Ulverston, the Lake District, housing over 500 fabrics. Running sewing classes from beginners to patchwork & quilting and lampshade making. Also making unique childrens clothing.
2 Market Street, Ulverston, LA12 7AY 07742 247 179 or 07815 691 258 email@example.com
Extensive Range Of Fabrics, Haberdashery, Needlecraft Accessories & Sewing Workshops
Extensive range of Fabrics, Wool, Haberdashery, Craft Kits & Workshops. Including: Liberty, Kaffe Fassett, Micheal Miller, Riley Blake, Fabric Freedom, Rowan, King Cole, Stylecraft
Tel: 01455 556287
15 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich, London, SE22 8EW 02035810909 firstname.lastname@example.org www.reallymaria.com
www.sewcharming.co.uk 1 Shambles Court, Bell Street, Lutterworth, Leicestershire, LE17 4DW
Your NEW one stop sewing shop! Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter.
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LS42 pp79 20% off everything threadhead.indd 77
MATERIALS & TOOLS â€˘ â€˘ â€˘ â€˘ â€˘
cup & saucer fat quarter of fabric newspaper toy stuffing or a pillow hand-sewing needle & thread
NOTES A 1.5cm seam allowance has been used throughout, unless otherwise stated
This teacup pincushion is a sewing-room staple; keep your pins safe in the cushion and quickly throw them onto the saucer while you're at the machine!
HOW TO MAKE: To start we need to draft the pattern. Place the cup upside down on the newspaper and draw around the rim. (See Pic A.) You will need to add about 1.5cm extra to this circle for a seam allowance. Once you have drawn this second line in place, cut out the circle and put it to one side. Place the tip of your tape measure at the bottom of the cup and measure to the rim (cup height). Mine is 7cm. You will also need to measure the circumference of the cup by wrapping the tape measure around the outside of the rim. Mine is 27cm. (See Pic B.) With the two measurements, draw a rectangle onto the newspaper and cut it out. You donâ€™t need to add any seam allowances to these measurements as you want the pincushion to sit inside the cup. Place the two pattern pieces onto your chosen fabric, pin in place and cut out. Remove the pins and paper templates from the fabric. Double-thread your needle with matching thread so that you have two tails knotted at the end. Fold the rectangle of fabric in half widthways with the RS (patterned sides) together. Match the corners and pin the fabric in place. Sew together along the short open side to create a tube â€“ use backstitch about 5mm away from the
Project JENNIFFER TAYLOR
edge. Secure the stitches at the end with a knot. (See Pic C.) You now need to make a medium-length running stitch about 2cm away from the raw edge of the fabric circle. This needs to go around the full circle of fabric and in a different
coloured thread so that it's easy to remove later. (See Pic D.) Once you have sewn around the edge of your circle, donâ€™t knot the thread. Gently pull the thread so that the circle begins to gather slightly. (See Pic E.) We are doing this so we can ease
our circle into the tube we have just created. Pin the circle into the top of the tube opening with the RST. You may need to ease the circle out a little to fit, but your temporary running stitch should help to keep it even.
Jenniffer says... The first pincushion I ever made was a moustache-shaped one, which I took onto the Sewing Bee as a good luck charm... but it didn't survive a run-in with my dog!
LS42 pp78 Pincushion.indd 78
The thread should be no longer than your forearm â€“any longer and you'll get tangled up!
KNOTS Here's an easy method to sew a neat knot at the end of your work
Thread a needle with matching thread and backstitch the two pieces together. When you have done this, you
ABOUT THE BOOK
Girl with a Sewing Machine, by Jenniffer Taylor, available now, ÂŁ12.99 Search Press
can remove the temporary stitches. Before you turn the pincushion out the right way, you need to fold over the long open edge by 5mm to create a small hem and press this in place using an iron. Turn the pincushion out the right way. Before stuffing it, you need to make a running stitch into the crease you have just created with the iron. This time, use matching coloured thread and do not knot the thread at the end â€“ leave the needle and thread attached. You can now stuff the pincushion. Keep in mind that you want a firm pincushion but be careful not to over-stuff it as you need to be able to close the open end without putting pressure on your stitches.
To close the pincushion you just need to pull the thread with the needle still on it. Pull this as tight as you can to close the gap. Then, while holding the tension on the thread, create a knot to hold it in place. You may want to sew a few more securing stitches by sewing the opposite sides together a few times Once you have knotted the thread, run the needle into the body of the pincushion until it comes out of the other side. Pull the needle out and then trim the thread close to the fabric, leaving a length of thread inside the pincushion. Pop the pincushion into the cup and youâ€™re ready to go!
Put the needle into the fabric and poke the tip of the needle back through the fabric as if you are about to do a stitch Before you remove the needle, wrap the thread around the needle twice.
Place your finger onto the knot and then pull the thread.
This should leave you with a tight knot very close to your fabric.
LS42 pp78 Pincushion.indd 79
Shows you how to...
READ A PATTERN CIRCLE DOTS
These marks indicate construction details, such as zipper position, pleating, or the endof-stitching line, as set out in the instructions. Some pattern companies will use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.
PATTERN CUTTING LINE
Each line relates to different size for the garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a pattern sheet so you can either follow a single cutting line throughout or blend carefully between sizes to achieve a better fit.
The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it can hang, move and stretch correctly. The grainline must always be parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished edges) of the fabric.
BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
The placement for a button is marked with an X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked with an edged line. TUCKS/PLEATS
Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern PLACE ON FOLD LINE
This edge of the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to cut out a mirror image at the same time. pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment. Follow directional arrows where given.
SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE)
Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping, usually located at the bust, waist and neck.
Every project you sew has a set seam allowance. This is the distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. These lines are occasionally included on vintage patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to line up correctly. Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in case smaller allowances are being used. Sewing machines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side of the presser foot.
Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch location, within the seam allowance. These marks are used to match pieces together before sewing.
RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT)
These explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on the envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take care with directional prints; you wouldn’t want a floral print top with all the flowers upside down.
LS41.P68 Pattern Adjustments.indd 68
Instructions for placing right sides of fabric together will be written as RST. LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE
This indicates exactly where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece or garment to make changes for improved fit.
WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK)
Instructions for fusing interfacing to the wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.
ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT Draw a third horizontal line a little above the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of the pattern.
First, you need to work out how much additional space you require around the bust or what youâ€™d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart to work out the amount: Small bust example
Full bust example
Full bust measurement
High bust measurement
1/2â€? SBA = half the difference
11/2â€? FBA = half the difference
Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the armhole, making sure not to cut all the way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has now swung away from its original position. Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the dart so you can pivot.
The lower edge of your hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you drew, and spread apart until your hem is level. Fill in the spaces created with tracing paper, and stick into place.
Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line from the marked point to the hem. Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.
SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E) Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment. This is essentially the same process in reverse.
From this line, draw a second line up towards the armhole, hitting the lower third of the armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.
Swing the darted side of the pattern across the other side, by the desired SBA amount. The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you drew, and overlap until your hem is level.
Draw a second line horizontally through the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the bust point.
Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesnâ€™t, you can easily do this yourself. NARROW BACK (FIGS A â€“ C) B
Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so theyâ€™ve been spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel. Youâ€™ll notice that your dart has now spread apart too and become bigger.
FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D) Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to establish where your bust point is. Mark onto the pattern with a cross.
Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm from the armhole to just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from this point. Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small Âźâ€? adjustment is often enough. Play around with this amount as you develop your fitting skills. Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.) Youâ€™ll now need to make the front shoulder width a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole away. Donâ€™t forget to make sure your new curved line is smooth at the shoulder. BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E) D
ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT
SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. LENTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the spaces with scrap paper. A
BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A) To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist, indicated by the dotted line. To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to the required size.
LS41.P68 Pattern Adjustments.indd 69
Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment drawing the two lines and cutting along them.
Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with a broad back a Âź-Â˝â€? adjustment is about right. Fill in the space with some tracing paper and stick together. Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines on Fig D.) This time youâ€™ll need to make the front shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned. Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front shoulder and armhole. Check that youâ€™ve drawn a smooth line over the shoulder.
THE SEW NG SHOP Bristol
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INVERTED PLEA T DRESS
This semi-fitted dress has a lined princess seam bodice, front yoke s. The inverted and pleat detail gives skirt, which also body to the has side pockets. a back zip and topstitching detai With three sleeve variations , a casual lunch l, or a stylish dinne this dress will easily work for r. Fabric Req uirements
DRESS A 150cm wide Lining fabric DRESS B 150cm wide Lining fabric
opt ion C
SiZES: 6-14 ADVENTUR OUS BEGINN ER
DRESS C 150cm wide Lining fabric NOTIONS
6 1.6m 0.7m
A, B , C - 22” zipper and
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This dress is only suitable for 150cm -wide fabric Fabric: Gabardine , linen, jacquard, medium-weight wool crepe, twill, cotton or crepe . Unsuitable for obvious diago nals.
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SIZES DRESS A, B Bust Hip Length (base of neck to hem)
DRESS C Bust Hip Length (base
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Update your wardrobe with this stylish and timeless dress pattern featuring easy-to-fit princess seams and a flattering box-pleat skirt. This paper pattern is multisized and covers UK sizes 6-14. We are offering this gorgeous pattern to Love Sewing readers for free – all you need to do is pay P&P!
To claim your free copy head to www.craftstash.co.uk/ ls42readeroffer www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 83
LS42 pp83 Postaway.indd 83
The Gloria dress is a breath of fresh air in cool cotton gingham. With frill detail at the cuffs and patch pockets she’s got easy appeal Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl
Checkers, Cotton + Steel cotton gingham, £14 per metre www.villagehaberdashery.com
LS42 pp84 gingham.indd 84
SIZING Finished bust
HOW TO MAKE: MATERIALS & TOOLS • 1.9m 124cm-wide gingham cotton or similar medium-weight fabric • 20cm fusible lightweight interfacing • 56cm concealed zip • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
NOTES Finish the raw edges with a machine zigzag stitch or overlocker 1cm seam allowance is included
1 Fuse interfacing to the WS of the neck facing pieces. 2 Create the darts at the front and back. 3 Finish the raw edges of the CB seams. We’ll insert the zip into the CB seam now for ease later! Use an invisible zipper foot for a neat finish and sew the zip on the RS of the garment. Finish the CB seam by continuing to sew below the zipper stop. 4 Join the front to back at shoulder seams and press open. Sew the neckband facing together at shoulder seams and
press seams RS and push out open, then the corners, Why not cut the pockets finish the raw then the seams. on the bias to add a outer edge 7 Top-stitch fun print clash with all around. the neckline diagonal checks? 5 With RST on the RS pin the facing to to secure the the neckline edge facing in position, and down the CB approximately 3cm from along the side of the zip. Tackthe edge. (See Pic B for a guide.) stitch in place then sew with a 8 With RST sew the front to 1.5cm seam allowance at the back at the side seams. Then neckline. Swap to a zipper foot with RST sew the sleeve side and sew down the zipper. seams, and sew the cuff pieces 6 Notch the curves of the at the short sides. seam allowance and clip the 9 Working on each cuff piece, corners. (See Pic A.) Turn to the sew a 2cm hem on one cuff
LS42 pp84 gingham.indd 85
edge, and finish the other raw edge. Gather cuff piece along the unhemmed side. With RST, pin then tack the gathered cuff piece to the sleeve. Ease the gathers all around to fit and sew them in place. (See pics C and D.) Pin, tack, then sew the sleeve into the armhole, matching the notches. (See Pic E.) Finish the raw edge and press the seam allowance towards the body. D
Hem the dress at the lower edge as required. Fold a 2cm hem at top edge of each pocket piece. Finish the other three raw edges then fold over each edge by 1cm. Pin in position to the front of the dress, following the markings on the template. Tack-stitch in place, then top-stitch approximately 3mm from the edge along the three folded sides. E
Follow the included cutting line to make a blouse version to pair with your favourite denim skirt! 86 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
LS42 pp84 gingham.indd 86
“Issue 37’s jersey trouse rs are my first ever pair of tro users and I’ll definitely make more! The pattern was easy to follow and quick to ma ke.”
oh Phyllis S 33 McCall’s 75
s el Edward Dott Ractihful pair of Butterick
Sewed the in a m issue 40 pattern fro ly ve lo a style in sleeveless t for c e rf e P t. n pri bold daisy job! wear, great year-round
Made a beau om issue 40. We es fr 6178 culott u’ve used, wy fabric yo o fl love the er! al for summ it looks ide
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“I was so thril led when I w on the gorgeous co tton lawn from your Facebook Live competition! I drafted up a culottes patter n for my daughter and she wan ts them in every colo ur now. Can’t wait to make myself a matching pa ir!”
“I absolutely love the McC all’s top pattern from issue 39 and will be wearing it all through the sp rin summer. I us ed a cotton po g and plin and added little re d buttons to the sleeve tabs for an ex tra detail. Than ks for including such great patterns .”
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Get in touch jenny.riley@practical publishing.co.uk
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LS42 pp88.indd 89
Easy bust adjustments Beat the bigger boobs blues and get patterns to fit you properly with this expanded tutorial on full bust adjustment from Wendy Gardiner, Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company
Perfect for last month's pattern, M7536! ABOUT WENDY GARDINER As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com
LS42 pp90 wendy gardiner.indd 90
Commercial patterns are designed to fit a B cup size, and as many of us are now C cup or over, to get a good fit through the bust, chest and back frequently requires some alterations to the pattern tissue before you cut into your fabric. The first step is to check which size you should be working with because for those over a C cup, you choose your dress, jacket and top size by your high bust measurement and then make adjustments.
To find out whether to choose from bust or high bust/chest size, first take your full bust measurement – around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back. Then take your high bust/chest measurement – above the bust and under arms at the front, straight across the back. If there is a difference greater than 6.5cm (2½”), you should choose your pattern by your high bust/chest measurement and then make the adjustments noted below. This will help ensure the pattern fits better across your shoulders, chest and back. TIP: Before making adjustments for a fuller bust, check the finished garment measurements (printed on the tissue pieces or pattern envelope). If they are over 5cm larger than your bust, you may not need to do a full bust adjustment. Tissue-fit by pinning the pattern pieces together and trying on, or make a calico test bodice.
Having chosen the right size to work with, the next step is to check the markings on the pattern to check that the bust apex point is in the right place for you. This is particularly important on dresses with princess seams where the curve of the seam needs to fit around your curves accurately. If your clothes wrinkle above or below the bust, you will need to alter the pattern. Most commercial patterns have the bust point marked on the tissue by a large circle with a cross inside. Hold the pattern piece against your body, with the shoulder seam in line with your shoulder and centre front at centre front of your body. The bust point marking should fall at the apex (point) of your bust, if not you will need to make an adjustment.
LS42 pp90 wendy gardiner.indd 91
ADJUSTMENTS IF YOUR APEX IS LOWER THAN THE PATTERN
IF YOUR APEX IS HIGHER THAN THE PATTERN
Draw two parallel lines, at right angles to Draw a line across the bodice just below the centre front, just below the armhole, the armhole, at right angles to across the bodice an equal distance the centre front (A), slash apart to the amount the bust along the line and spread point needs to be raised (D). the tissue apart by the Fold the bottom line up to the required amount. Add top line and tape. Redraw extra tissue and tape Don’t forget to adjust the centre front and the in place. Redraw the side edge (E). Again, this all front pieces the centre front and side adjustment means you have same if working with edges (B). Doing this shortened the garment so to a dress or top with does extend the front adjust it back to the original length, so to return it to princess seams length draw a line across the the original length, draw bodice at right angles to the centre two parallel lines an equal front, slash on the line and spread distant apart (the same as the apart the pieces by the same amount you extra you have just added), just above the just folded out. Tape in place and redraw waistline. Fold the bottom line to the top centre front and side edge (F). and tape in place (C).
at th r be em m re d an – e m ti r ou y Take size is just a number! 23/06/2017 16:12
Enjoy your sewing – you have the power to get a great fit! FULLER BUST
For C cup and more, you may need to make a full bust adjustment. But first check the finished garment measurements. On loosefitting garments, this adjustment is only necessary if your body measurement is less than 5cm difference to the finished garment measurements.
Draw a straight line across the bodice through the bust point marking, at right angles to the centre front. Draw a second straight line from the curved portion of the armhole to the bust point and from this point continue a straight line down to the lower edge, parallel to the centre front (G). Slash along these lines, keeping a pivot point at the armhole, and then spread the pieces out to the required amount (see below). Add tissue and tape. Reshape the darts (H).
PATTERNS WITHOUT BUST DARTS
Measure up from the waist 15cm along the side edge and mark with a dot. Draw a straight line from this mark to the bust point/apex on the tissue. Again draw a
straight line from the curved portion of the armhole to the apex and then from there down to the lower edge as before (I). Slash and spread the tissue by the required amount and add extra tissue and tape in place. Now to close up the side opening created, draw a dart equal to the width of the side opening with the tip of the dart 2.5cm (1”) from the bust point. Lengthen the centre front to match the side length and redraw the lower edge (J).
DETERMINING THE AMOUNT TO ADD
Having taken high bust and bust measurements, deduct bust from high bust. Then deduct 6.5cm (2½”), which is already allowed for in the pattern. Halve the remaining figure to determine how much extra room is needed. For example if your bust is 91cm (36”) and your high bust is 101cm (40”), the difference is 10cm (4”). Deduct 6.5cm (2½”), which leaves 3.5cm (1½”). Half of this is 1.75cm (¾”) thus the tissue needs to be spread by 1.75cm (¾”).
SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT
If your cup size is smaller than a B cup, you may need to make a small bust adjustment. Folds will appear in garments over the bust if there is excess fullness that needs to be removed. Check/correct the bust point/apex as noted previously and then take high bust and full bust measurements. If you have less than 6.5cm (2½”) between the measurements, you may need to make an adjustment.
Mark a dot at the apex and draw a straight line across the bodice, through the dot and at right angles to the centre front. Draw a straight line from the curved area of the armhole to the dot and then straight down to the lower edge, parallel to the centre front (K). Cut along these lines. Overlap the cut edges to the required amount and tape. Reshape the darts as needed (L).
Fit & fab
You can do a bust adjustment on a pattern without bust darts! Just follow our guide
LS42 pp90 wendy gardiner.indd 92
New fabrics added every week
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Lingerie ASK THE EXPERTS
Sew-along Part 2
elcome back to the Lingerie Sew-along. In the last issue I looked at patterns and fabric and laces. Have you chosen yet? I am now going to look at cutting out, seams and attaching lace.
I would expect the pattern you have chosen to be cut on the bias. Why? Bias cut will stretch and mould itself around the body, eliminating the need for darts and multiple seams.
CUTTING ON THE BIAS
The bias cut is usually cut on single-layer fabric, and the diagonal grain line printed in the pattern needs to be placed parallel to the selvedge. A large flat cutting table is essential for this process. Pin carefully and cut using long scissor strokes, or you could use a cutting mat and rotary cutter if you feel this gives you more control.
Check the seam allowance on your pattern, is it 6mm (¼”) or 15mm (⅝”)? Many lingerie patterns have just a 6mm seam allowance, which may limit seam options. If you have a 6mm seam allowance try this seam. Place the fabric together RS to RS and stitch a 6mm seam using a straight stitch. Press the seam as stitched and then overlock the edges of the seam together
LS42 pp94 Alison.indd 94
In this issue Alison talks us through cutting out, seams and attaching lace 23/06/2017 16:15
Alison Smith MBE talks us through the next few steps on our luxurious Lingerie Sew-along with a three-thread overlock stitch – this will probably take up all the 6mm seam allowance – see if you can adjust your overlocker for a narrower stitch, or try a rolled hem to neaten the seam! Yes, a rolled hem works. If you don't have an overlocker, sew the seam allowances together using a tiny zigzag stitch of a length 1.5 width 2.5. If however you have a 15mm seam allowance, why not try a French seam? Pin the fabric together WS to WS and sew at 5mm. Press open and then fold the fabric RS to RS along the seam line and stitch a 10mm second seam. The result is a very strong seam that is very flat and comfortable against the skin.
Tack the two layers together. The lace is now zigzagged in place; set your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch, length 1.5 width 2.5. Zigzag the lace into the fabric, making sure the stitch is on the lace, not half lace and half fabric, following the shape of the lace. This is secure as bias cut fabric does not fray. On the WS, trim back to the zigzagging. Press. On a camisole, slip or nightdress, join the front to the back at the side seams by your chosen technique, matching through the lace.
ALISON'S CRAFTSY CLASS ON MAKING LINGERIE – JUST FOLLOW THE LINK ON MY WEBSITE WWW.SCHOOLOFSEWING. CO.UK FOR A SPECIAL DISCOUNT!
ATTACHING THE LACE TRIM
The lace is the most important part of the garment in many respects and care needs to be taken in attaching it. On a camisole, a nightdress or slip, the lace is applied to the top edge prior to the front and back being stitched at the side seams. Why? To stop the top edge, which is bias cut, from stretching too much! With the pattern piece flat on the table RS upppermost, place the lace trim over the fabric, making sure it overlaps by at least 1cm on a straight0edged lace or by half the depth of the lace on a scalloped piece.
Attach lace to the bottom edge if required using the same technique. If you are making French knickers or pants, the lace trim at the hem edge is applied after the side seam on the pants has been made.
Pin the lace to the fabric, working from the CF or CB to the sides and making sure you place a dominant motif on the lace at CF and CB. At any corners or points, either mitre the lace or trim around a motif and overlap the following motif.
LS42 pp94 Alison.indd 95
If your chosen fabric is super fine or super sheer, or super fraying like my blue georgette, I would advise you neaten the raw edge prior to attaching the lace. This is more unusual. On the blue georgette I neatened the raw edge prior to attaching my organza lace trim; use either a threethread overlock stitch, a rolled hem on the overlocker or a tiny zigzag stitch. Once this has been done attach the lace to the garment, but do not trim back. Next time I will explain how to make hems, straps and elastic inserted casings, plus I'll take you through the important finishing touches!
ABOUT ALISON SMITH Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with Alison at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site www.schoolofsewing.co.uk
Next month in
T H E U K â€™ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E
PATTERNS worth over ÂŁ17
Butterick 6318 Retro day dresses Butterick 6326 4-in-1 skirt styles Inspiring articles, projects and guides: P Embroidered elbow patches P Simple Sew Capri trousers P Katy Jones's clamshell laptop case P Lovely Liberty maxi dress P Celebrate 90 years of Simplicity sewing patterns
Plus much more! LS42 pp96-97 Next Issue.indd 96
ISSUE 43 ON SALE 10TH AUG 2017
4 styles to try SIZES 8-24
MINI QUILT See page 26 to subscribe
y Gardiner Top tips and techniques from Claire-Louise Hardie P Expert guidance from Wend P In-depth articles from Wendy Ward P Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castro Peake P Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE P Behind the scenes with Jade Earley *All contents subject to change.
LS42 pp96-97 Next Issue.indd 97
SCOOP? Chocolate, strawberry, vanilla â€¦ whatâ€™s your favourite ice-cream treat? Project SALLY DIXON
MATERIALS & TOOLS â€¢ 6.5x8.25cm beige felt â€¢ 3.75cm square of pale pink, mint green, white, lemon felt, brown & orange felt â€¢ multicoloured seed beads â€¢ beige, white, pale pink, mint green, brown, lemon & orange embroidery floss â€¢ polyfill â€¢ templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Using a strand of matching floss, make a gathering stitch around the outer edge of an ice-cream scoop. Pull gently, stuff and gather to make a round ice-cream scoop. Knot off. Whip-stitch the scoop to the cone using one strand of beige floss, then knot off. Repeat steps 1-4 to make six ice-cream cones in total.
CUTTING: â€¢ 6 cones of beige felt â€¢ 1 scoop of each coloured felt
FINISHED SIZE: 1cm diameter Ã— 2cm high
STITCH GALLERY BLANKET STITCH
ABOUT THE BOOK
HOW TO MAKE: Using one strand of matching floss, back-stitch a waffle design over an ice-cream cone piece. Knot off. Fold the ice-cream cone in half and blanket-stitch the side edges together. Knot off and stuff. Decorate the ice-cream scoops with seed beads, French knots or scattered seed stitches.
Pipsqueaks by Sally Dixon, Â£11.99 from www.ctpub.com
LS42 pp98 cones.indd 98
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Published on Sep 23, 2017