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ACCESSORY very edge of the interfacing and this time leave the turning gap in the long flat edge. Trim the seam allowance and clip the corners and the curve. (See Pic P.) Turn out through the gap. Press the edges perfectly. Sew a very narrow topstitch around the curved edge. The flap is now ready to add.


Cut an 85x36cm piece of Fabric C and fuse it to a piece of H640 the same size. Fold it in half with the two short sides together. Crease. This vertical crease is on the middle front. Site the pocket and flap 3.5cm up from the bottom on the centre crease and top-stitch on with a narrow seam. (See Pic Q.) The flap, 3cm above the pocket, has a double topstitch. (See Pic R.) Add a Kam snap closure in the middle bottom of the flap.


Make a tie casing from 85x10cm Fabric A. Fold it in half lengthways with right sides together and sew up one short end along the long side and down the other short end, leaving a gap on the long side for turning. Turn out through the gap and press so that the edges are perfect. The casing is now ready to use and will be attached in the final steps.


Cut an 85x36cm piece from Fabric B. Make a lined slip pocket using the same method used for the bottom portion of the front pocket with the same measurements. To counter any sagging, make a vertical seam in the centre of the pocket once it is on – this is also a useful divider.


Fold the lining in half with the short ends together and make a centre crease. Site the pocket on the centre crease with a narrow topstitch as before, 10cm down from the top edge. You can make other smaller pockets too if necessary. The pockets can be any size but be aware that the bag will curve when closed, just keep them away from that seam!

a narrow topstitch and lining-matching thread in the bobbin attach the drawstring casing.


Sew the main bag up the back seam with no gaps. Attach it to the base, keeping the tabs on the right side of the bag. Clip the base on the curve.

Now to attach the flap and straps. The flap goes onto the centre back with a double row of topstitching about 1cm apart so that the raw edges of the adjustable straps are secure and hidden. Poke the strap ends inside by about 2cm so the ends will not be seen when the flap is opened and they will reap the benefit of the extra strength of the double topstitching too and be very unlikely to come loose (remember that they are carrying most of the weight of the bag). The strap ends are already attached to the middle bar of the bag sliders as shown earlier. Take them down through the rectangle rings in the bottom tabs, back through the bag sliders and secure them under the edge of the flap either side of the centre. (See Pic S.)








With the right sides together, sew the back seam of the lining leaving a turning gap part way down. Using the same oval template as before, cut a base piece from the lining fabric and attach it to the main lining. The lining is now finished.


With the bag outer the right way out and the lining inside out, pull the lining on over the outer and match the top seams exactly. Remember that the centre seam is at the front. Sew around the top edge. Turn the bag out through the gap in the lining and close it. Top-stitch around the top with a narrow seam and matching thread. Smooth the lining down well and pin the casing 1cm down from the top edge of the bag. With

Attach the flap to the back of the bag right under the casing. Use a double topstitch in co-ordinating thread. Feed the drawstring through the casing and tie a wooden bead at each end, trimming as necessary. You need it to be long enough to draw the bag in and make a generous bow. Finish with a Kam snap in the middle of the bottom of the flap and the corresponding one on the front of the bag. (See Pic T.)










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