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NEW! EASY SKILLS TO LEARN: INSERTING SLEEVES

SEWING PATCH POCKETS IN UK IN UK SIZES SIZES 6-20 8-18

E , Y O U R WAY L Y T S R U O Y G SEWIN

summer wardrobe

SEW A PRETTY PYJAMA SET!

essentials to sew

YOUR 2-IN-1 PATTERN

PATTERN HACKING: How to customise any design to suit you

NO PATTERN REQUIRED Sewing Bee’s Jenniffer Taylor’s kimono dress

Cute quickmake purse

SIMPLE PATCHWORK PICNIC BLANKET

AGES 5-12

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STYLE S A E ID nd patterns &

on-tre expert tips to try today!

GIFT IDEA TEA COSY

ISSUE 10 UK £7.99 www.sewnowmag.co.uk

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WELCOME

Hello

17

Follow the PJ shirt trend!

The advantages of sewing your own clothes are almost too many to mention but, apart from the well-deserved ‘me’ time, being creative and adding a special twist to my makes has to be my favourite part of sewing. This issue with just a little fabric know-how we’ve turned our free Kwik Sew Pyjama pattern (page 16) from an everyday pyjama top into a gorgeous on-trend shirt. The pattern has long and short-sleeved top and trouser versions, giving you numerous possibilities.

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Also free with this month’s issue is the stylish Simple Sew Sienna Dress (page 14), which works beautifully for day, night or a special occasion. Both of this issue’s free patterns have huge summer potential, but as staple patterns they’ll work hard in your wardrobe all year long. To stretch your skills, try our Double Frill Top (page 26). This is a great choice for picking up new construction skills and ticking off a high-street trend. Sewing Bee’s Jenniffer Taylor show us how to make a very wearable no-pattern Kimono Dress (page 56), cleverly using your body measurements as a guide and simple sewing techniques. We add a touch of fun and personality with the Playtime Pixel Dress (page 70), which is the just right for the school holidays – I can’t wait to get started on one. Our Henrietta Horse Purse (page 36) is a winning combination of hand and machine sewing to create a fabulous gift in next to no time. Dive into your stash for the Ditsy Denim Backpack (page 50) and hand-embroider the pretty floral motif in co-ordinating thread.

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Why not brighten up a family outing with the Hexagon Picnic Blanket (page 76), or bring a little flora and fauna to your daily cuppa with the stylish Garden Tea Cosy (page 42)? Both are fabulous gift ideas. There’s lots to inspire you this issue including new patterns, style advice, fresh fabric and simple techniques to improve your sewing.

Sam

Editor sam.sterken@practicalpublishing.co.uk

SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS

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We’d love to hear your thoughts about Sew Now. Find and follow us on:

www.facebook.com/sewnowmag www.twitter.com/sewnowmag www.instagram.com/sewnowmag www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag

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INSIDE THIS ISSUE OF

14 GET YOUR NEXT 3 ISSUES FOR JUST £6 Turn to page 60 for details of how to subscribe!

42

70 REGULARS

6 10 29

NEWS What’s new in sewing HOT OFF THE PRESS Pattern news from The Fold Line

ANGELINE MURPHY Find out which skills Angeline wants to master

63 85 88

www.facebook.com/sewnowmag

4

34

IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR We meet Beth Abakhan of expanding family business Abakhan

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31

91 94

98

TUTORIALS

SEWING WORKSHOPS Learn skills and make new friends

SEWING START UP French pattern brand Louis Antoinette tells us what makes it chic

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BACK-PAGE BLOGGER We chat with Lousie of blog Sew Sensational

READERS’ MAKES What you’ve been sewing

20

SUMMER TREND REPORT Take inspiration from hot high-street trends

PATTERN REVIEW Lizzie Anderson tries a vintage-style pattern for size

TEAM TALK What’s new on Sew Now’s radar

FEATURES

22

SUSTAINABLE TAILORING Adjust the hips on a pencil skirt for the perfect fit FINISHING SCHOOL Flat insertion sleeve tutorial with Alison Smith SEWING KNOW-HOW Basic stitches explained

MASTER YOUR MACHINE Find out what all the buttons and functions mean PROJECTS

24

14

32

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SKILL BUILDER Jeanette Archer shows us patch pockets three ways AMERICANA BAG Delve into your stash and create a fab summer clutch

www.twitter.com/sewnowmag

FREE SIMPLE SEW DRESS PATTERN Sweetheart neckline dress suited to every summer occasion FREE KWIK SEW PYJAMA PATTERN Classic pyjamas or slouchy on-trend shirt? You decide!

www.instagram.com/sewnowmag

www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag

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CONTENTS

50

MEET THE TEAM Editor

Deputy Editor

16 Bethany

Sam Stylist

Seamstress

Jeanette

Jo SKILL LEVEL GUIDE

Editorial Assistant

Beginner Adventurous beginner

19

32

Intermediate

Jenny

Advanced

WIN AND SAVE!

DOUBLE FRILL TOP Smart construction with great results

26 36 42

82

HENRIETTA HORSE PURSE Fun and friendly snap-frame purse

INSPIRATION

19

50

38

56 70

41

78

49

GARDEN TEA COSY Lined floral tea cosy to keep your pot warm

DITSY DENIM BACKPACK Super useful backpack in your favourite florals KIMONO DRESS Jenniffer Taylor’s no-pattern dress

PLAYTIME PIXEL DRESS Cute a line dress with bias-bound edging HEXAGON PICNIC BLANKET A great patchwork starter fabric for outdoor living

BAG TASSEL TUTORIAL Quick and easy add something extra to your favourite bag

WEAR IT WITH Make your free pattern dress work hard with four great looks PATTERN HACKING EXPLAINED How to get started and what to hack CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC Specially selected fabric to suit your summer style

44

SUSTAINABLE SEWING Reuse and recycle by making a Morsbag HOME STYLE Nail the geometric trend

48 54 81 87

20% OFF Butterick, McCall’s, Kwik Sew and Vogue dress patterns WIN sewing goodies and enjoy fabric discounts WIN a Singer C440 Legacy sewing machine worth £599 20% OFF at Adam Ross Fabrics

55 69 90 93

STYLE FILES Smart fabric placement hits the spot

SHOP IT OR SEW IT Sew your own wedding style PRESSING TOOLS How to get a professional finish

FESTIVAL STYLE Must-have accessories for the festival look

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Girl with a Sewing Machine Jenniffer Taylor lit up our screens in series 2 of The Great British Sewing Bee and since then has fully immersed herself into the wonderful world of sewing! After teaching classes around the country covering dressmaking and upcycling, she’s just released her first book, Girl with a Sewing Machine. It’s packed with patterns for all skill levels, and we love the use of upcycling and tips on getting the perfect fit. Because adapting a garment or pattern to suit you and your style is what making your own clothes is really about. Don’t forget to share your makes from the book on Instagram or Twitter with #sewingrevolution. Pick up your copy for £12.99 from www.searchpress.com

Find Jenniffer’s Kimono dress tutorial on page 56

WHAT’S NEW? The products, patterns and events on our radar this month

CHILL OUT Jazz up your home and build your stitching confidence with the new Big Chill floor cushion kits from DMC. Measuring a whopping 90cm square and with lovely bold motifs, they’re sure to make a statement in your lounge – adding a pop of colour to any room. Suitable for beginners and above, each of the four different kits features printed tapestry canvas, Merino wool, cotton cord backing, zip and thread. This means all you need to do is find a few weekends or evenings to get stitching! £139.99 each from www.sewandso.co.uk

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NEWS FABULO US 4 0 S STYLE Trends from the 1940s have made quite an impression on the catwalk this season, with a nod to classic tailoring and understated palettes. The sleek and easy-to-wear Laneway Dress pattern from Jennifer Lauren Handmade fits this vintage brief perfectly, with a timeless A-line silhouette and flattering fit. It features double open-ended darts to help shape the waist and bust, and you can create a striking asymmetrical collar built into the facing of the bodice. It also features B, C and D cup sizing and lots of handy fitting advice. There’s even a bonus classic neckline pattern too! This pattern is best suited to intermediate sewists and you can download the pattern for $12.99 (approx. £10.24) from www.jenniferlaurenhandmade.store

G AG A FOR GIN GH A M

Over at Sew Now HQ we’re huge fans of the gingham fabric brightening up the high street and getting us in the summer holiday mood! It’s top of our sewing table too, thanks to this beautiful woven polycotton from Minerva Crafts, with its gingham check design and pretty floral pattern created using the burn-out technique. Available in four vibrant colours, it would look brilliant sewn up into a flouncy summer blouse, retro midi skirt or even a classic sundress. Available for £4.99 per metre from www.minervacrafts.com

EVERYDAY COOL

Birds of a feather Animal prints are big news right now, and for a subtle burst of colour this flamingo-print cotton lawn is perfect. With painted pink birds across a soft grey background it could make a gorgeous summer shirtdress, boxy top or even a cool bag lining. £14.90 per metre from www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

So you’ve cracked sewing with woven fabric but you’re still finding your feet with knits? Why not try improve your skills with the versatile new Poppy top and dress pattern from By Hand London? The company’s first knit-specific pattern, it includes a relaxed fit raglan-sleeved top or dress with a subtle inverted box pleat shaping at the sleeves. Perfect for summer or transitioning into autumn, you can make the dress in a midi or maxi length and sleeve options include short and full length, giving you lots of variations to play with. Available in sizes 6-20. Download your pattern for £9 at www. byhandlondon.com WWW.SEW NOW MAG .C O.UK

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Every month, Laura Victoria shares what’s been going on with the #wardrobebuilder challenge and what you’ve been making

T

Laura

his month, we are reaching the halfway point of project #wardrobebuilder. When I started out in January I thought that this Sew Over It would be a great Alex shirtdress way of making my sewing projects more a part of my everyday wardrobe. Athina Kakou’s Tilly So far it has been and the Buttons Clemence skirt pretty successful in streamlining my makes into key items that I do wear and has stopped me getting distracted by new pattern releases that are similar to what I already have. This has meant that I’m wearing what I make more often, because it’s filling a gap and based on what I really need. The Alex shirtdress is one of my favourite makes so far and already being worn frequently because it fits a need for smarter warm weather wear. The monthly link ups and Pinterest galleries where people share what they have made have really been inspiring. Last month, I was thinking about making a Clemence skirt and when I saw the one that had been added to the link up it convinced me I should really give it a go. The pin added to the group Pinterest board from theflyingneedle is also one of my favourite makes of the project so far. If it hadn’t been for this I would never have come across this pattern. For the rest of my #wardrobebuilder projects I’m going to be creating garments that match my existing pieces. The aim is to be able to wear these clothes as often as possible so finding a key palette, style or silhouette might help with selecting patterns and fabric. I’m really looking forward to July’s theme of summer dresses – I think we will all be linking up more than one make! The giveaway is also from one of my favourite online fabric stores; Splendid Stitch. Looking forward to seeing your #wardrobebuilders! To find out more about the challenge and see the monthby-month themes, visit www. The Flying thepetitepassions.com. Don’t forget Needle’s PattyDoo Ella skater dress to share your makes online with the hashtag #wardrobebuilder

8

Saturday 9th September Saturday 9th December

ALL TH E F UN O F TH E FAIR

Who can resist a good crafty market? Not us! West Sussex is showing off its creativity this year, with The Nice Craft Collective bringing a curated selection of over 15 talented artists and makers together to showcase their creativity. On Saturday 9th September and Saturday 9th December, Shoreham-bySea will host stalls including handmade textiles, ceramics, prints and more, as well as workshops, tea and cake and a licensed bar. Plus, it’s totally free to enter! If you’d like to apply to exhibit your work or want to find out more information, head to www.nicecraft.co.uk

20 West Street, Shoreham-by-Sea BN43 5WG nicecraftcollective @nicecraftcollective www.nicecraft.co.uk A curated selection of over 15 artists and makers at the fabulous West Street Loft in Shoreham. Free Entry. 12pm - 7pm.

prints r lincensed ba homewar te a & cake es vintage handmade gifts textiles retr o sou nds s ceramic workshops

I CAN SNIP A RAINBOW Measuring only 5cm long, these tiny scissors are just the right size for all of your travel sewing needs! Whether you’re planning a little hand stitching away from home or are simply won over by their space-saving design, the Little Gems scissors by Kelmscott Designs would make an attractive addition to any supplies bag. Each has geometric square handles and with six colours available, we can’t quite pick a favourite! Bag yours for $10 (approximately £7.88) from www.stitchedmodern.com

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HOT-OFF-THE-PRESS

PATTERNS Kate and Rachel of The Fold Line reveal some summer gems for this month’s pattern picks LULU DRESS Sew Over It The Lulu Dress from Sew Over It is a loose-fitting, slightly A-line shift dress. Features of the pattern include a two-piece raglan sleeve, keyhole detail at the front and a gathered neckline, meaning there's no need for bust darts. The pattern comes with two sleeve lengths and the option to make it into a top. This is perfect for advanced beginners wishing to expand their skills, or a quick make for the more advanced sewist.

Kate

Rachel

THE A-LINE DRESS The Avid Seamstress This dress is a new pattern from The Avid Seamstress and features a fitted bodice with darts at the bust and V neckline. The dress has loose sleeves and an A-line skirt with optional pockets at the side seams. This simple shape is perfect for an advanced beginner who wants to learn about fitting. This would look great in a range of fabric, from cotton or linen to something with more drape such as viscose.

Sizes UK 8-20 PDF pattern £7.50 www.sewoverit.co.uk Sizes UK 6-22 Paper pattern £16 PDF pattern £9.50 www.theavidseamstress.co.uk

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NEWS Sizes UK 8-18 PDF pattern £9.96 www.mavenpatterns.etsy.com

V9253 Vogue Patterns The V5293 is part of the new summer collection from Vogue Patterns and, with a nod to the 70s, it’s bang on trend this summer. The key features are a dramatic V-neck that comes down to the waistband, where there is a tie detail. The bodice has a relaxed fit with kimono sleeves and pleats rather than darts to add shaping. The dress comes in two lengths – midi and full length – and could be made in a wide range of fabric. We’d recommend this pattern to an advanced beginner.

Sizes UK 4-14, 16-26 PDF pattern £12 www.weaverdee.com

ROCHESTER DRESS & TOP Maven Patterns The Rochester is the latest release from UK-based Maven Patterns. The key features of the pattern are the relaxed fit A-line shape and gathered neckline detail. There is a deep pleat at the centre back of the dress and it comes with an optional tie at the waist. Both the top and dress feature a curved hem with a split in the sides and a deep stitched hem. We’d recommend this pattern for an advanced beginner looking to take their skills to the next level.

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Sizes UK 14-30 Paper pattern £14.90 www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk

PLUS SI ZE PATT E RN

LENOX SHIRTDRESS Cashmerette The Lenox is the latest offering from Cashmerette. This shirtdress is designed with curves in mind and also includes the option to choose the bodice pieces based on your bra cup size for the perfect bust fit. Key features of the pattern are princess seams, buttondown front and pockets. The dress comes with two options for the skirt so you can choose between pleats or gathers. The neckline has an option for a grandad collar as well as the traditional type. We would recommend this for an intermediate maker.

12

JAMANOTA SWIMSUIT Opian If you’re looking to make a swimsuit this year this is a great option from pattern company Opian. The Jamanota is a simple swimsuit pattern with key features including a crossover bodice and neck tie at the back. The front panels are gathered into the waistband, making it easier to fit, and it has a low-cut back. If you’re looking to make your first swimsuit this is a good choice, and we would recommend it for an intermediate maker.

Sizes UK 8-20 PDF pattern 8CHF (approximately £6.43) www.opian.ch

The Fold Line is an online sewing community with over 10,000 members. The site has a huge pattern database with sewing-specific search function plus wishlist and library profile features to store your favourite patterns. There is also a sewing resources section to inspire your next make and an active forum where you can chat to other sewists. Visit www.thefoldline.com

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your online order

www.whichcraftwools.co.uk 7 Station Way, Cheam Village, Surrey, SM3 8SD

Facebook: WillowKnits

N I S E V I R R A ALTRINCHAM Family run since 1964

Sewing &

Classes aft r C

Other branches at . . . BIRKENHEAD

8-12 Greenway Rd, CH42 0NG

Tel: 0151 652 5195

Free Dem

A MASSIVE RANGE of fabrics, yarns & sewing accessories in store now... all at very competitive prices! all store at s s o

Come see us at .. .

112 George St Altrincham, WA14 1RF

CHESTER

65 Frodsham St, CH1 3JJ

Tel: 01244 323640

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Tel: 01782 274200

Tel: 0151 207 4029

Tel: 0161 839 3229

55 Old Hall St, Stoke-on-Trent ST1 3 AU

4-44 Stafford St, L3 8LX

www.abakhan.co.uk/group-visits

111-115 Oldham St, M4 1LN

abakhan.fabrics

MOSTYN

Coast Road, Llanerch-Y-Mor, CH8 9DX

Tel: 01745 562100

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Unit 3b Corporation St, PR1 2UQ

Tel: 01772 202677 abakhan.fabrics

BOLTON

Unit 2B, Burnden Park, Manchester Rd, BL3 2NE

Tel: 01204 388430 abakhan.fabrics

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YOUR

FREE PATTERN VIEW A

Mint white velvet frayed-hem jacket £99, www.johnlewis.com

Summer

sewn up! Whether it’s day or smart occasion wear you want, this issue’s two free patterns deliver both. The Simple Sew Sienna’s vintageinspired silhouette will see you through the summer, styled up or down, while the Kwik Sew pyjamas make the perfect sleepwear or stylish, slouchy shirt Photography RENATA STONYTE Model KATE for Industry Models Hair and make-up THEMBI for CREATIVES

GET THE LOOK

Rocket Dog jute flatform pumps £40, www.very.co.uk

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Peach floral digi-print lawn Buttery soft 150cm-wide 100% cotton lawn with digitally printed floral design peppered with pops of red and green £14.99 per metre www.remnantkings.co.uk

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Lime bow and quill fascinator £25, www.very.co.uk

“Simple touches often make an outfit and, paired with the right accessories, our Simple Sew Sienna Dress could easily become the dress of your summer wardrobe. The sweetheart neckline flatters all bust sizes and the pretty flutter sleeve adds a soft touch, especially when sewn in floaty crepe or rayon. Sew a daytime holiday dress in a soft denim chambray – stay on trend with embroidered fabric – or hit the wedding season with a strong print for a true head turner!”

VIEW B

S KIL LS C HEC K Simple Sew Sienna Dress 3 Bust darts 3 Waist darts 3 Inserting sleeves 3 Lined bodice 3 Inserting a zip

Extra challenge

3 Sew in luxurious fabric such as silk or satin

Sam

GET THE LOOK

Yellow court shoe £35, www.riverisland.com

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Jade floral lace-print micro fibre crepe Soft and drapey, this beautiful floral micro fibre fabric features a design that gives a lace effect in black against a teal/jade background £4.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com

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YOUR

FREE PATTERN

VIEW A

“Everyone needs a pair of luxurious PJs, and these will certainly brighten up your summer break. The simple construction means you can master buttonholes and collars, while the elasticatedwaist trousers are a breeze. Follow the PJ shirt trend and sew in a soft cotton mix for a luxury shirt ideal for weekend wear”

Jo

GET THE LOOK

Art Gallery Fabrics Abloom Fusion Fashion Scent Beautiful 150cm-wide high-quality 100% cotton with a vivid floral print on a bright yellow background £15.25 per metre www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist

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VIEW B

S KILLS C HEC K Kwik Sew 3553

3 Buttonholes 3 Sewing patch pockets 3 Simple faced collar 3 Casing for elasticated waist 3 Inserting sleeves

Jeans, model’s own

GET THE LOOK

Blush crossover platforms £19.99, www.hm.com

Royal Blue Magnolia Dream viscose Gorgeous to the touch, this 140cm-wide drapey viscose is the perfect weight for blouses, tops and summer dresses £7 per metre www.cottonreelstudio.co.uk

Kate is 5’ 9“ and a dress size 8

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Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/ls42 *All contents subject to change

M7408

PINCUSHION

MISSES’ TUNIC AND DRESSES: Semi-fitted, A-line TUNIQUE ET ROBES POUR JEUNE FEMME: Tunique trapèze, semi-ajustée tunic and dress have bust darts, neckline, and sleeve à pinces de poitrine, variations d’encolure et de manche. A, B: Galon de ruban. C: variations. A, B: Ribbon trim. A, B, C: Side slits. A: A, B, C: Fentes latérales. A: Bandes contrastantes. C: Cordon acheté. Contrast bands C: Purchased cording. D: Purchased Perles achetés. C, D: Ourlet piqué. TÚNICA Y VESTIDOS PARA JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: Túnica línea A, semibeads. C, D: Stitched hem. entallada, con pinzas en el busto, variaciones de escote y de manga. A, B: Ribete de cinta. A, B, C: Aberturas laterales. A: Bandas contrastantes. C: Cordón comprado. D: Cuentas compradas. C, D: Dobladillo cosido a máquina.

Quick TEACUP

Combinations: Y(XS-S-M), ZZ(L-XL-XXL) SUGGESTED FABRICS: Cotton Blends, Sateen, Dobby, Linen.

XXL XL L M S XS SIZES 12-14 16-18 20-22 24-26 8-10 4-6 2∂ Yds. 2 1π 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 45"*** A " 1≥ 1≥ 1∞ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 60"*** CONTRAST A - 45", 60"*** - 1≤ yds. FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, C 18", 20" - 1 yd. 2π Yds. 2π 2π 2π 2≥ 2≥ 45"*** B " 2π 2π 2∂ 2 1π 1π 60"*** FUSIBLE INTERFACING B 18", 20" - 1∑ yds. 3∞ Yds. 3∞ 3∞ 2π 2π 2≥ 45"*** C " 2∫ 2∫ 2∞ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 60"*** Yds. 4 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ 3∞ 3∞ 45"*** D " 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ 2π 2∞ 60"*** FUSIBLE INTERFACING D 18", 20" - 1∂ yds. NOTIONS: A, B: ∑" or ∫" Ribbons: 6∞ yds. for A, 4≥ yds. for B. C: 1≤ yds. Cording. D: Purchased Beads. FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at bustline 41 37∞ 35∞ A, B, C, D Measurement at hipline 46∞ 43 41 B, C, D Width, lower edge 63∞ 60 58 D Back length from base of neck 33 32∞ 32 A 44 43∞ 43 B 38∞ 38 37∞ C 57∞ 57 56∞ D

34 45 39∞ 58∞

33∞ 44∞ 39 58

71∞

67∞

54∞

50∞

49

45

53 58∞ 75∞ 34∞ 45∞ 40 59

Ins. " " " " " "

*With Nap **Without Nap ***With or Without Nap

Séries/Combinaciones: Y(TP/XP-P/P-M/M), ZZ(G/G-TG/XG-TTG/XXG) TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Cotonnade, Satin de coton, Façonné, Toile de lin. TELAS SUGERIDAS: Mezclas de algodón, Satén de algodón, Labrada, Lino. TG/XG TTG/XXG G/G M/M P/P TAILLES/TALLAS TP/XP 24-26 20-22 16-18 12-14 8-10 4-6 2.00 m 1.90 1.80 1.50 1.50 1.50 115cm*** A 1.60 m 1.60 1.40 1.30 1.30 1.30 150cm*** CONTRASTE A - 115, 150cm*** - 1.20m ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA A, C 46, 51cm - 1.00m 2.70 m 2.70 2.70 2.70 2.60 2.60 115cm*** B 2.70 m 2.70 2.00 1.90 1.80 1.80 150cm*** ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA B 46, 51cm - 1.30m 3.20 m 3.20 3.20 2.70 2.70 2.60 115cm*** C 2.40 m 2.40 2.30 2.00 2.00 2.00 150cm*** 3.70 m 3.40 3.40 3.40 3.20 3.20 115cm*** D 3.40 m 3.40 3.40 3.40 2.70 2.30 150cm*** ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA D 46, 51cm - 1.10m MERCERIE: A, B: Rubans de 1cm ou 1.5cm: 6.00m pour A, 4.40m pour B. C: 1.20m de Cordon. D: Perles achetées. MERCERÍA: A, B: Cintas de 1cm o 1.5cm: 6.00m para A, 4.40m para B. C: 1.20m de cordón. D: Cuentas compradas. MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI/MEDIDAS DE LA PRENDA ACABADA Mesure à la poitrine/Contorno de busto 135 cm 125 115 104 95 90 A, B, C, D Mesure aux hanches/Contorno de caderas 149 cm 138 128 118 109 104 B, C, D Largeur à l’ourlet/Ancho inferior 192 cm 182 171 161 152 147 D Longueur - dos, votre nuque à l’ourlet/Largo de espalda desde la nuca cm 88 87 85 84 83 81 A 116 cm 115 113 112 110 109 B 102 cm 100 99 98 97 95 C 150 cm 149 147 146 145 143 D *Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo **Sin Pelillo ***Con o Sin Pelillo

A

COVER- UP

CHIFFON

C

B

D

Copyright© 2016, The McCall Pattern Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. & Sold for individual home use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes. www.mccallpattern.com Reserve à un usage personnel. Utilisation commerciale ou industrielle strictement interdite.

Size Y/ZZ Taille (6-26 : XS-XXL) Talla

TM Off. Marca Registrada

Stylish

C

M 7408

D B A BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESURES/MEDIDAS DEL CUERPO XXL XL L M S XS SIZES 24-26 20-22 16-18 12-14 8-10 4-6 46-48 Ins. 42-44 38-40 29∞-30∞ 31∞-32∞ 34-36 Bust 39-41∞ Ins. 34-37 30-32 26∞-28 24-25 22-23 Waist 48-50 Ins. 44-46 40-42 31∞-32∞ 33∞-34∞ 36-38 Hip Back Waist Length 15≤-15∞ 15≥-16 16≤-16∞ 16≥-17 17≤-17∞ 17≥-18 Ins. TG/XG TTG/XXG G/G M/M P/P TP/XP TAILLES/TALLAS 24-26 20-22 16-18 12-14 8-10 4-6 97-102 107-112 117-122 cm 87-92 80-83 75-77 Poitrine/Busto 99-105 cm 87-94 76-81 67-71 61-64 56-58 Taille/Cintura 102-107 112-117 122-127 cm 92-97 85-88 80-83 Hanches/Caderas Longueur dos/Largo espalda 39-39.5 40-40.5 41.5-42 42.5-43 44-44.5 45-45.5 cm

WORTH £9.25 M7408

PATTERN

YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN BLACK

FREE T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E

ISSUE 42 ON SALE 13TH JULY


INSPIRATION

WEAR IT WITH... The Simple Sew Sienna is not just an occasion dress, it will work hard day and night

EVENING DO

Floozie by Frost French hat £18, www.debenhams.com

Red suit jacket £40, www.dorothyperkins.com

FLY AWAY Floozie by Frost French Aviator sunglasses £16, www.debenhams.com

Orange jacquard box clutch bag £22, www.dorothyperkins.com

Havana slouch bag £39.50, www.marksand spencer.com Blue crossover mules £19.99, www.newlook.com

GO CASUAL

Embroidered denim jacket £65, www.topshop.com

Clutch bag £29, www.laredoute.com Metallic bag £25, www.marksandspencer.com

ROCK IT Falmer utility jacket £35, www.matalan.co.uk

Furry sliders £39, www.topshop.com

Apple ankle-tie mid espadrille £18, www.very.co.uk WWW.SEW NOW MAG .C O.UK

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What has been your most popular pattern/kit and why do you think this is? I have two in mind; our Demoiselle dress, a timeless skater dress that can be worn from 7 to 77 years old (we even launched a smaller child version of this dress), and Parisienne, a two-in-one dress we offered as a free downloadable pattern when we launched Louis Antoinette (see #hacklamode hashtag on Instagram). It was a way for us to reach out to modern seamstresses and let them know more about Louis Antoinette. It was definitely a success since the pattern was downloaded more than 10,000 times, and we had nearly 500 versions sent in! All those lovely versions certainly helped seamstresses to better imagine themselves in the dress.

Julien, Floriane and Romain

I N T E R V I E W

SEWING START UP

LAParisienne dress pattern, €15.90 (£13.81)

Chic, à la mode, and with a certain je ne sais quoi, French pattern house Louis Antoinette brings classic continental style into the 21st century. Pour yourself a glass of sauvignon blanc as we chat to co-founder Floriane Pelletier For any of our readers who aren’t familiar with Louis Antoinette, tell us about the brand. What makes you stand out from other pattern houses? Louis Antoinette is a French brand of DIY clothing. We imagine modern and fashionable women's clothes, which are available in two versions: sewing patterns and sewing kits (including pattern, lovely fabric, haberdashery and an instruction booklet). In a few words, we try to rekindle the magic of sewing. What inspired you to start designing your own patterns? We have three co-founders – Julien is the designer, Romain is the one who handles all the administrative and financial aspects and I’m in charge of designing the collections

20

with Julien, as well as the communication aspects. Julien works at Chloé in Paris and he also designs wedding dresses and gives sewing lessons. He’s the kind of person that never stops working and even takes his sewing machine with him on holidays. In France, DIY leisure activities, including sewing and knitting, are growing quickly especially among women aged 25-45 years old, but two years ago the sewing patterns on offer were still very old fashioned. We wanted to bring a little more fun, joy and modernity to sewing, that’s how we came up with Louis Antoinette. Sewing kits were also a means for us to help new seamstresses make sure they choose the right fabric – this can be tricky sometimes when you’re just starting out.

Lolita dress kit, €35 (£30.39)

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FEATURE Demoiselle dress, €15.90 (£13.81) paper pattern, €64 (£55.58) kit

How do you feel French and British clothing trends differ, if at all? Being French in the sewing universe makes a lot of sense given Paris is famous as the place to be when you deal with fashion. We also wanted this heritage to be a part of our story (we named the company Louis Antoinette as a tribute to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette who were, in their time, the most famous fashion muses in France). I don’t know if there is any difference. However, when I think of English pattern designers, Tilly and the Buttons is the one brand that comes to mind, I love its retro style.

Have you got any exciting plans coming up this year that you’d like to share? Yes! We are working on a new project, which will be launched at the end of the summer. It’s still confidential for the moment – all I can say is that women who can’t sew will soon be able to wear our clothes as well.

French style icon Louise Bourgoin

Featureflash Photo Agency - Shutterstock.com

You’re known for your fun attitude to sewing, what advice can you give to anyone stuck in a sewing rut? 1 Have a break. 2 For the French readers: look at our tumblr jepeuxpasjaicouture.tumblr.com, we use gifs to make fun of our sewing issues (soon to be translated in English). 3 Once you feel you’re not going to throw your sewing machine out from your window, you can reach out to us for help at mayday@louisantoinette.com Which famous lady would you love to see wearing one of your patterns? When we talk about our Parisienne dress, we usually say that Kate Middleton would kill to wear this outfit, so I guess she could be a good ambassador of what we do. For a more modern look, I would choose the gorgeous French actress Louise Bourgoin; she has that look every Parisian woman tries to achieve.

Visit www.louis antoinette.co.uk for a beautiful collection of patterns, kits and sewing advice

“WE WANTED TO BRING A LITTLE MORE FUN, JOY AND MODERNITY TO SEWING“

Petra jumpsuit, €15.90 (£13.81) paper pattern, €70 (£60.77) kit

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Summer

T R O P E R D TREN iration from this sp in ke ta d an e ob dr Spice up your war -street trends gh hi t es tt ho ’s er m m this su GO RETRO All available at k www.houseoffraser.co.u

e ro styles and prints hav Hot off the catwalk, ret s. tion llec co high-street slipped seamlessly into ts sit alongside prin o ge 70s Bold 60s and with the right fabric tonally muted florals, and at home. Go bold it’s an easy look to sew thetic to the era – pa and sew a pattern sym p it wearable with a 70s maxi anyone? Or kee decades but is still shirtdress that crosses the obe. relevant to today’s wardr Red bloom tea dress thing £18, www.tesco.com/clo

int dress M&S Collection geo-pr er.com enc dsp san ark w.m £35, ww

s Misses' Surplice Dresse uk co. sh. tsta raf w.c ww £8.95, £14 per metre wn.com www.tilthesungoesdo

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1960s-style cotton print Reminiscent of Mary Quant prints, this will work well for a simple A-line skirt, tunic or wrap dress. Perfect for summer!

White Anais Anais cotton lawn £15, r.co.uk www.fabricgodmothe

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co.uk

FEATURE Button-through lemon-print tea dress £34, www.glamorous.com

Improvise! This PJ top is so nice we’d wear it in and out of bed!

SEW THIS LOOK USING YOUR FREE KWIK SEW PATTERN

Fruit-print ruched skater dress £29, www.simplybe.co.uk

LEMON AID The fashion fruit bowl is tempting us again and, while the pineapple may be languishing at the bottom, lemons are here to help us stand out from the crowd and bring this season’s essential pop of yellow. Brighten up your outfit with a bold motif and pair your look with simple accessories to let the print sing.

£13 per metre www.billowfabrics.co.uk

Palm-print py jam style jacket £2 a5, www.tesco.co m/clothin

PYJAMA PART Y

g

Art Gallery Fabrics Yuma Lemons Mist This extra-smooth pima cotton with a high thread count drapes perfectly and is ideal for dressmaking.

The slouchy py jama style shirt is a trend that’s set to stay around fo r the summer. One of the ea siest shirts to sew, this a quick look to copy. Use rich colours to accentuate th e simple shap e or add piping along the collar and butto n placket. Styling is key, so wear with a tapered trouser or pencil skirt for understate d elegance.

Printed shirt £18, www.tuclothi ng.sainsburys .co.u

k

£18 per metre www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

Red piping in se 70p per met rtion cord 4193 15mm re www.abakha n.co.uk

Eleanor espadrilles £59, www.hobbs.co.uk

White Lemons guipure lace Make a gorgeous dress from this beautiful guipure lace and line it with a nude fabric or choose a bright contrasting option.

Helena shirt £28, www.fig leaves

.com

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FREE PATTERN SKILLS TUTORIAL

SEWING

Skill builder

patch pockets

Add detail to your makes with an easy and useful patch pocket. Jeanette Archer shows us how to master the three most common types NEED-TO-KNOW FACTS

What is the technique? Making and adding patch pockets to a garment. What can it be used for? Patch pockets are decorative and useful and can add interesting detail to an otherwise plain garment. What type of fabric does this technique work with? Most fabric, although it’s more challenging on sheer fabric or lace. Which foot should you use? Your regular sewing machine foot. What are the common problems? Unevenly shaped pockets and untidy top stitching. Do you need to make adjustments to your machine settings? Not normally. Any tricks or tips that we need to know? Gathering stitches 10mm away from a curved pocket edge can really help get an even curve. The iron is your friend; patch pockets need lots of careful pressing! When top-stitching the pocket in place, make use of your sewing machine’s balance wheel to make stitches in tight corners.

4

CURVED POCKET:

Gently pull and adjust gathers to create an even curve along the bottom edge of the pocket. (See Pic C.) Press into place and pin carefully to garment and stitch in place close to the edge using a slightly larger stitch than usual.

1

Fold over the facing at the top of the pocket. Check the pattern instructions and, if necessary, trim the seam allowance of the pocket to 10mm.

Jeanette

2 3

Stitch the facing in place, trim corners, turn and press. (See Pic A.) Sew a row of gathering stitches 10mm away from the edge. (See Pic B.)

SQUARE POCKET:

5 6

Follow steps 1 and 2 of the curved pocket instructions.

Press a 10mm turning on the three edges of the pocket. Unfold at the corners and where the pressing lines cross and fold a small triangle of fabric diagonally using the pressed lines as a guide. (See Pic D.) Gathering stitches

A

B

HOW ABOUT SOME DECORATIVE TOPSTITCHING?

Twin needle in narrow to extra wide £2.50, www.jaycotts.co.uk

A twin-needle can be used to get two even rows of topstitching along the top of a pocket, and contrasting thread gives a nice effect.

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TUTORIAL

7

Fold in the corners so they meet. This mitres the corners so they are neat, with sharp corners. Press again. Pin in place and sew to the garment as before.

V-SHAPED POCKET:

8

Follow the instructions for the square pocket, but this time mitre the point and side corners. Press carefully and pin to the garment. Sew in place. (See Pic E.)

WHY NOT TRY A LINED PATCH POCKET?

FAUX FLA P POC KETS If you want to add eye-catching detail, faux-piped flap pockets are perfect for adding a sense of fun on children’s (and adults) clothes. Find more at www.ikatbag.com/2011/02/ piped-lined-faux-flap-pocket.html

For this you need two fabric pieces for each pocket. Sew three sides of the pocket leaving the top (facing) edge open. Trim and clip all the corners and curves. Turn it to the right side and press. Turn in the facing, press and top-stitch in position before pinning to your garment and sewing in place.

C

E

D

POCK ET POTE NTIAL Try out your patch pocket skills

New Look 6449 Misses’ Easy Shirt Dress and Knit Dress Sizes 8-20, £6.95 www.sewessential.co.uk

Christine Haynes 1007 Lottie Dress & Shirt Sizes 0-18, £16.99 www.minervacrafts.com

McCall’s 6044 Men’s Shirts Sizes SM-L, XL-XXXL £9.95, www.sewdirect.com

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Addison high-waisted jean £30, www.very.co.uk

Double frill

TOP

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Add a pretty feminine touch to a classic shape top with a double shoulder frill, while getting to grips with new construction skills Project JULIA CLARIDGE www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk Photography RENATA STONYTE Model KATE for INDUSTRY Hair and make-up THEMBI for CREATIVES

GET THE LOOK

Timeless Treasures Sketch Basic Poplin This soft, 112cmwide poplin with a fun two-tone sketch print is available in wide variety of colours

Cloud9 Fabrics Frolic Camarilo Multi Cotton batiste This super lightweight 114cmwide semi-sheer fabric is ideal for blouses and tops

£11.99 per metre

£18 per metre

www.minerva crafts.com

www.bobbinsn buttons.co.uk

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STYLE

112cm-wide fabric Sleeve cut 2

MATERIALS: •• 2m 112cm-wide cotton poplin •• 35cm 112cm-wide lightweight cotton batiste •• small button •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

A

Side front cut 2

Front cut 1

Side front cut 2

Frill cut 1

Size

8-10

12-14

14-16

Chest

90.5cm

95.5cm

100.5cm

Side neck to hem length

65cm

66cm

67cm

Fold

Back facing cut 2

“This is a great way to create a more dramatic look with a touch of construction know-how. Take your time with the frilled and sleeve sections and make sure the lining fabric is an equal or lighter weight than the main fabric to avoid the frills drooping!”

Fold

Fold

Front facing cut on fold cut 1

Back facing cut 2

Front facing cut on fold cut 1

Fold

Frill cut 1

Selvedge

Side back cut 2

Selvedge

Back cut 1

Side back cut 2

Fold Back cut 1

Frill cut 1

Frill cut 1 Frill cut 1

Frill cut 1

FINSHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

Frill cut 1

LINING FABRIC: Cut 2 frills on fold Cut 2 sleeves

1

Frill cut 1

Fold

Sleeve cut 2

Front cut 1

NOTES: Use 1.5cm seam allowance throughout

HOW TO MAKE: Prepare the sleeves and frills. The sleeve is the smaller inner section over the armhole and the frill is the longer piece that sits over the shoulder. With right sides together, stitch the

Sleeve cut 2

Sleeve cut 2

FABRIC TYPES: Lightweight cotton or linen. Suitable contrast fabric should be slightly lighter than the main fabric

CUTTING: Main fabric: Cut 1 front on fold Cut 1 back on fold Cut 1 pair of side front panels Cut 1 pair of side back panels Cut 2 frills on fold Cut 2 sleeves Cut 1 front neck facing Cut 1 pair of back neck facings

Lining

LAYPLANS

SKILL LEVEL:

Julia

B

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The contrast lining adds a stylish , feminine touch sleeve and sleeve lining together, leaving the straight edge open. Stitch the frill and frill lining together along the straight edge, leaving the curved edge open. Trim the seams, turn to the right side and press. (See Pic A.)

2

Stitch two rows of long (gather) stitches along the unstitched edge of each frill. Mark the centre of the frill with chalk or pin before gently pulling the stitches to gather the frills. (See Pic B.)

3

With right sides together, sew front and back panels at shoulder seams. Sew the front and back side panels at the shoulder seams. Neaten the raw edges. Place the centre of the frill with right sides together at the shoulder seam and ease the frill to fit between notches on the centre panels. Pin then stitch the frill. Place the side panels with right sides together to the centre panels, sandwiching the frill in the centre. Stitch and neaten the raw edges. (See Pic C.)

4

Place the sleeve to the armhole edge with right sides together and centres matching. Stitch in place. (See Pic D.)

D

5

Make the back shoulder dart in facing. (See Pic E.) With right sides together, join the back and front facings at the shoulder seam. Neaten the lower edges of the facings – you can overlock the edge or use a zigzag stitch and create a shallow single-turn hem. Neaten the centre back seam. (See Pic F.)

6

With right sides together, pin the facing around the neck and armholes before stitching, starting 10cm down from the centre back neck edge. Stitch, clip and turn to the right side. Press. (See Pic G.)

7

Join the centre back seam below the opening and join the side seams by lifting the facing. Neaten the raw edges. Catch the facing to the side seams with a few hand stitches (See Pic H.)

8

Work a hand-stitched button loop at the left side of the opening and stitch a button on the right side of the opening. (See Pic I.)

9

Finish the hem with a narrow double-turned hem. (See Pic J)

E

Start sewing at 10cm

G

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F

I

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Sewing skills I’d love to learn Angeline Murphy explains what’s next in her sewing education

O

ne of the most common questions I get asked is where did I learn to sew. Well, I started out turning up trousers roughly seven years ago with a basic sewing machine my brother garment can be a challenge. Along with draping, I would love to conquer had bought me for Christmas. After creating my own dress pattern using a two years of tackling small projects like block. I suppose the beauty of sewing is upcycling clothes, turning up curtains that you are always learning – that’s the and basically sewing only straight exciting part. lines, I decided to enroll in an evening course in Belfast under the guidance I always strive for a well-fitted of Christine Boyle. When the six-week garment and one of my favourite course was over, I had stitched up a patterns to follow is the Simplicity pink tweed tailored jacket with blue lining (looking back it was an odd colour Amazing Fit 1606. I have made this dress so many combination). The skills times and it always I picked up on this turns out perfectly. course included sleeve “ONE CAN NEVER easy-to-follow insertion, inserting an STOP LEARNING AND The guidelines take you invisible zip, interfacing, THERE ARE MANY through inserting buttonholes and lining, SKILLS I AM YET boning, princess and it gave me the seams and offer confidence to tackle TO MASTER!“ you a variation of further techniques on necklines. When my own. boning a garment I normally fit the boning into a channel created by Over the next few years I watched a French seam. This gives a sharp, countless YouTube videos, including professional finish. I also love using the pocket insertion, hemming, edges, bodice pattern from Simplicity 1606 and working with chiffon and many other mixing it up with the Vogue 7939 skirt sewing techniques. It was trial and error variations. Using two different patterns in the sewing room and my seam ripper will give you a unique dress design.  quickly became my best friend. I can now say I have a strong knowledge of To create a well-fitted garment you first many sewing techniques; however one need to select a suitable fabric, and my can never stop learning and there are favourites to work with include stretch many skills I am yet to master! satin and scuba; both have stretch which allows them to fit nicely around Draping fabric around a dress form and the body contours. For a rich finish I pinning into shape is something I have love to use brocade or velvet. It’s fun never taken the time to learn. We were to play around with different fabric – faced with this challenge on the Sewing the key is matching an appropriate Bee and I’d love to brush up these skills. fabric to you garment. Be adventurous On paper it appears quite simple, but and enjoy! getting a flattering, wearable draped

Angeline

An all-time favourite pattern of Angeline’s

Draping fabric can be a tricky thing to learn, and takes practice!

Esteemed designer, author and tutor Christine Boyle helped take Angeline’s sewing skills to the next level*

Classic, with a flowy feel, this vintage draped skirt offers many possibilities

*Photography by Neil Harrison www.neilharrisonphotography.com

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The Old Stables 17-23 Poplar Road Kings Heath Birmingham B14 7AA T: 0121 443 5555 E: info@franknutt.co.uk

Three ways to buy - online

by telephone

or visit the shop

Lots of honest, helpful and friendly advice.

Chr salis

We stock Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Juki and Singer machines.

h

Around 100 sewing machines and overlockers on show, ready for demonstration.

The essential mail-order fabric subscription service for the professional and home dressmaker

FABRICS

We have an extensive range of Horn cabinets and chairs on display.

Premium quality dress fabrics hand selected and presented in four seasonal swatch Collections sourced mainly from Europe. Order any quantity by phone, e-mail, post or fax.

We also do machine accessories, software, dress forms and workshops. Free customer car park

Subscribe for only £18p.a with no obligation

www.franknutt.co.uk

Join today! Call Diana on 07748 530 318 Learn more at www.chrysalisfabrics.co.uk

Phil Collins Fine Furniture h Bespoke Cabinet Maker f

We make all of our furniture by hand

The world’s most innovative fabrics

• Sewing Cabinets with a lift for machines, made in solid wood or wood veneer • Sewing Tables & Cutting Out Tables • Sewing Boxes All of our pieces are made to your own size and specification

Please see our website for all of our furniture

www.exclusivefurniture.co.uk 07714958622

Linton Tweeds design and weave luxury fabrics for the world’s most exclusive fashion houses See our website for the Linton Direct collection Use discount code

lovesewing10

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The pattern

REVIEW

Chanelling her love of vintage clothes, Lizzie Anderson sews up the Clara Bow Blouse from Til the Sun Goes Down Words LIZZIE ANDERSON lizziethimble.wordpress.com

V

intage styles have always appealed to me but, at 5’ 11”, I really struggle to find authentic pieces that fit. That’s why I am addicted to retro sewing patterns; they allow me to create the look I want with the fit and fabric that suit me. You can imagine my delight when I discovered Til the Sun Goes Down’s

(www.tilthesungoesdown. com) fabulous range of vintage patterns in modern sizes. I fell in love with the 1930s-style Clara Bow Blouse as soon as I saw it. The yoke neckline, side buttons, double darts and gathered sleeves really appealed to me. The pattern is beautifully packaged and contains a clear set of instructions, complete with diagrams for every step. It recommends using any light to mediumweight fabric so I opted for a pretty cotton lawn from Fabric Godmother – I simply couldn’t resist the Japanesestyle cherry blossom and adorable little birds! I whipped up a quick toile before cutting into my precious fabric. I wear a UK size 12 but, as I am somewhat lacking in the bust department, I often end up with garments that gape. I was pleasantly surprised, however, to find I needed very few alterations, and the fact there are eight darts in the front bodice meant I was able to adjust the fit very easily. I made version A and I enjoyed trying out new techniques such as creating gathered sleeves and a yoke

neckline. I must admit I had no idea what I was doing when I inserted the button placket but I followed the instructions to the letter and it turned out fine. My favourite detail of the design is the bow, created by making a large buttonhole at the centre front and looping a piece of fabric though it. I love the idea of using contrasting fabric or a vintage handkerchief next time, perhaps with little anchors on to create a nautical look. In fact, I am bursting with ideas for future versions so I am sure this blouse will become one of my go-to patterns.

GET THE LOOK

Pink Flora Songbird cotton lawn Featuring pretty flowers and dainty songbirds, this 144cm-wide super soft 100% cotton lawn is perfect for summer dresses and blouses £15 per metre www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

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Before

After

3

Use a seam ripper to remove the leather label and top portion of the belt loops, and remove the entire waistband from the jeans. (See Pic D.)

4

Cover half of each denim panel with lace, top-stitching it parallel to the existing seam. Position one pocket and the leather label on the front panel of the bag and top-stitch in place. (See Pic E.)

5

Use the original bag fabric as a template to cut the top edge of both denim/lace panels to fit the salvaged handles. (See Pic F.)

6 7 8

Add a second denim pocket to the lining fabric. (See Pic G.)

Use the denim panels to cut the lining fabric to size. (See Pic H.)

Americana

BAG

Carissa

Make the most of a vintage bag frame and sew a cool casual carry all in traditional American colours Project CARISSA BROWNING

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• unwanted bag •• old jeans •• lace •• lining fabric

32

HOW TO MAKE: Detach the handles from the bag you are refashioning. (See pics A and B.)

1 2

Cut off the bottom 30cm (or desired width of bag) from the legs of the jeans and cut one seam open so it lies flat. (See Pic C.) Snip around the back pockets.

Sew the sides and bottom of the denim panels together with right sides facing. Flatten each corner of the bag so the bottom and side seams are held together. Sew straight across roughly 5cm from the corner. (See Pic I.) Trim any excess fabric from each corner.

9

Sew the sides and bottom of lining panels together with wrong sides facing. Turn the lining inside out and sew along the sides and bottom again to complete French seams, encasing the raw edges to prevent fraying. (See Pic J.) Flatten each corner of lining so the bottom and side seams are held together as in Step 9. Sew straight across roughly 5cm from the corner.

10

Insert the inside out lining into the right side out denim bag. Fold the top edges towards each other and pin in place. (See Pic K.) Top-stitch all around the edge.

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REFASHION

11

Trim the button and buttonhole ends from the waistband and cut it in half. Fold each strap in half widthwise and stitch the edges together, leaving 6cm on each end. (See Pic L.)

12

Insert the top edge of bag and the ends of the denim straps into the wooden handles and secure. Use a wood stain touch-up marker on the handles if necessary. (See Pic M.) Pull the elastic out through the other end until the edge has gathered to 25cm, and the end is also 1.5cm from the opening.

A

B

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

carissaknits.com is a little corner of the internet where Carissa explores all manner of crafts. There you’ll find her sewing inexpensive thrift shop finds into fabulous new frocks, knitting up a new shawl, cross-stitching a fresh bit of kitsch for her home, reviewing the latest addition to her craft book collection and all sorts of other crafty goodness!

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I N T E R V I E W

IT’S A

family affair We had a chat with Beth Abakhan, Marketing Director at Abakhan, to discover more about the history of this much-loved brand and the newest store to join the family business Hi Beth, can you tell us a little bit about the history of Abakhan and your role? We are a family-run business and our journey began in 1947 when Michael Abakhan, my grandfather, started making hand-woven rugs on a loom! Our father Nick was then driving around the UK sourcing the textile waste for the rugs. Around about 1970 Dad found the North Wales site that today is our head office and flagship store. Today we have stores in Manchester, Bolton, Preston, Birkenhead, Liverpool, Chester, North Wales and

Beth Abakhan

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Stoke-on-Trent, online at www.abakhan. co.uk – and now in Altrincham! I’ve worked in the business since I was very young – I remember counting buttons for the stocktake, being a Saturday girl, then being a rep on the road for the wholesale side of our business and on to my current marketing role. I am now venturing onto the buying team whilst still overseeing marketing. What is a typical day in your life? I have two young daughters Evie, eight, and Alice, six, and after dropping them off at school I head to our head office at our Mostyn, North Wales store. I work closely with my colleague Lisa and we work on marketing plans for all stores, new product roll outs, store events such as weekly demonstrations, surgeries, and planning the sewing and craft classes. We are about to launch the new brochure and now have Altrincham on board for workshops so this has kept us busy! What are the best and most challenging things about working with your family? I’ve grown up within it so don’t really know any different! It’s 24/7! It can be very hard sometimes but then it also has many benefits. We have a good working

Debi, manager of the Altrincham Abakhan

“ALTRINCHAM HAS GOT SUCH A BRILLIANT COMMUNITY VIBE AND IT’S A GREAT SHOPPING DESTINATION“ relationship and get on very well. Will (my brother) and I are very close and he likes to try and boss me around! What’s been your proudest moment working for Abakhan? My proudest moment was very recently in April when we travelled to Estonia to celebrate 25 years of Abakhan there! We have seven shops in Estonia, five in Latvia and one in Lithuania. It was amazing to see all the staff come together for the celebratory party, with the majority of them having made their outfits! It was also a sad occasion as our father passed away two and a half years ago. Estonia was his vision and it was sad not to have him there with us.

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INTERVIEW

You’re about to open your ninth store, what are the challenges of managing lots of different stores? We’ve got a great management team headed up by Jane our Ops Director. Jane started working for us when she was 14, which is 30 plus years ago! A big challenge for us is to make sure the stores have the right product selection for their customers. Each store has a different customer base and it’s important we cater for that. Stores are getting new products in each week and it’s important that staff understand the products so that they can pass this knowledge and information onto the customer. Your new store is in Altrincham, can you tell us a little bit more about it and why you picked this site? Nick, our MD, happened to be in Altrincham one day and he thought what a great little hub/high street and community it was – our management team went to visit and we all thought the same! Altrincham has got such a brilliant community vibe and it’s a great shopping destination, especially with the food market just around the corner, which is really cool! The Altrincham store is a slightly new concept for us because it will be our smallest shop and therefore unfortunately we won’t be able to fit in all our product lines. We will be focusing on dressmaking fabric, sewing accessories, sewing machines, quilting and crafting fabric, knitting and crochet yarn, trimmings and craft accessories. Plus not forgetting our legendary remnants/offcuts! We will be stocking a limited selection of curtain linings, heading tapes and a small selection of designer screen-print fabric remnants, which are really something quite special. This will be our third location for sewing and craft classes, which is super exciting. The Altrincham shop will be a lovely community store. The Manager Debi (Mancunian born and bred) has come from our Manchester store where she has worked for the last 17 years! We’re also taking part in the Altrincham Festival during the first weekend in July.

Beth’s daughters Evie and Alice showing off their new handmade bags from their workshop

Are you having an opening ceremony? Janome is with us on Friday 23rd June demonstrating its sewing machines, including the overlocker, and customers can pop in and ‘have a go’; Saturday 24th will see the lovely Jenniffer Taylor in store! Jenni will be running two flower corsage classes, as well as chatting and helping customers while promoting her new book. Jenni is passionate about getting people sewing and we‘re really looking forward to having her! There will also be children’s pompom-making on the Saturday. Sunday will see our resident tutor Corrie running a bag-making class for children. My daughters have both been on this class at our North Wales store and they loved it! Also in-house will be Paul Clarke from The Sewing Bee. Paul will be running a workshop as well. All these classes will be free of course, and we’ll have lovely cake, goodie bags, balloons and more. Abakhan stores are known for their classes, why do you think it’s important to offer these? For education, to meet like-minded people but also to meet up with friends. I hear so many stories from customers of how they have made new friends whilst at a workshop.

Sewing Bee star Jenniffer Taylor is headlining the opening and promoting her new book

What are your customers loving right now? Liberty, scuba, linen blends and quilting cotton are really hot for us at the moment. Finally, what can we look forward to from Abakhan over the next few months? We are finally developing a blog. Thanks to everyone for being so patient! Plus, to celebrate 25 years in Estonia we’re going to be running a competition for two people to win a trip to Tallinn in Estonia so look out for that!

Find out more about Abakhan and shop online at www.abakhan.co.uk

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Henrietta

HORSE PURSE Sew up this pretty little pony coin purse in an evening Project MICHELLE CHAN

Michelle DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• fuchsia mini dots cotton (A) •• print fabric for purse lining (B) •• plain fabric for muzzle (C) •• floral-print fabric for body (D) •• geometric-print fabric for ears (E) •• orange, pink, black & white felt scraps •• animal eye buttons •• 7.5cm-square metal purse frame •• fusible interfacing •• thick wadding or scrap fabric •• black thread •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

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MINI MAKE

HOW TO MAKE: Cut the fabric, felt and fusible interfacing from the templates. Leave a 5mm seam allowance for all fabric cuts, except the interfacing and the felt.

Use your imagination and give the little horse some personality by adding to or modifying the facial features

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Iron the fusible interfacing onto the face. (See Pic A.)

On the muzzle, sew a line using dark thread for the mouth then sew the teeth below it. Sew the nostrils onto the muzzle, the pink felt onto the ears and the hooves onto the body. Sew the hair, button eyes and the assembled muzzle onto one fabric piece A. (See Pic B.)

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With right sides facing, sew the two linings together up to the stop marks. Leave a 5cm gap at the bottom. With right sides facing, sew the face, ears, body and tail together and turn right side out. Slip-stitch to close the opening on the ears. (See Pic C.)

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“FOLD THE EARS SLIGHTLY WHEN STITCHING THEM ONTO THE PURSE FOR A MORE REALISTIC CREASE�

Jenny

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Stuff the body with thick wadding or scrap fabric, then blind-stitch it to the assembled face. (See Pic D.)

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Turn the wrong side out, then insert the lining fabric and sew from the stop lines. You can turn it the right way round with the gap left in Step 4. (See pics E and F.)

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Sew the purse frame and blind-stitch the ears onto the finished coin purse. (See pics G and H.)

Michelle makes all sorts of amazing purses and bags, check out her latest designs at www.misala.etsy.com

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“PATTERN HACKING DOESN’T HAVE TO MEAN COMPLETELY TRANSFORMING A GARMENT, SOMETIMES SUBTLE TWEAKS ARE ALL YOU NEED TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN“

Bethany

Pattern hacking

EXPLAINED

Sewing your own clothes is all about making something that suits your style and your body. Personalise your favourite patterns with our quick guide to hacking Words BETHANY ARMITAGE

WHAT IS PATTERN HACKING? Pattern hacking is a pretty simple idea. It refers to taking a pattern and adapting it with your own customisations or tweaks. This can mean taking two existing patterns and combining them to create a brand-new garment. For instance, you might want the cold-shoulder top of the playsuit pattern but you’d prefer to give it a flowing circle skirt for summer. Pattern hacking can be easier than drafting your own patterns from scratch and can be a brilliant way to boost your construction and fit skills. It can teach you to add ease, darts, tucks and adapt aspects like collar styles, while using the basic design as your pattern block. This can save you a lot of money on patterns and encourages you to be creative and really think about how to make the garment fit and flatter your body GETTING STARTED If you’ve never tried hacking before, we recommend that you start with simple patterns like a basic T-shirt, tunic or shift dress. This way you have lots of options to alter them to suit your figure. A shift dress might benefit from the addition of kimono sleeves, while you might want to adapt the hem of a T-shirt to make it longer or with an A-line style. Choosing a simple silhouette provides a great canvas to play with, but make sure that the pattern already fits well before you choose it as your base pattern. Begin by tracing or drawing around your pattern piece onto freezer paper to make a copy, ready for hacking. Don’t be afraid to practise with a few toile versions and make sure that you always trace from your original pattern and label any new patterns clearly so you don’t get mixed up!

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FEATURE

3 pattern hacks we love

What you need n freezer paper n pencil & rubber n ruler/measuring tape n French curves ruler n paper-cutting scissors

WHAT HACKS COULD I TRY? Adapting the length of a garment is one of the most popular hacks you can try. This could be shortening a maxi dress into a mini dress, or transforming a shirt pattern into a shirtdress by lengthening it. The more you practise, the more your design confidence will grow – along with your sewing skills! Combining two or more patterns, also known as ‘frankenpatterning,’ can seem dramatic but just involves a little careful thought. Ensure that all waist measurements are the same at the joins and that you move darts where needed. These aren’t too tricky to move, simply mark with chalk rather than tailor's tacks and move them in a skirt or pivot them and close the gap within the bodice. Alternatively, you could divide up a dress or jumpsuit pattern into separates. This would mean giving thought to fit and fastening around the waist and perhaps extending the top in order to fit comfortably. Other options can include, adding sleeves into a sleeveless design, tapering the fit of

Colette has released a fantastic free download pack of hacks for its popular high-waisted Zinnia skirt, including a version with cowl pockets and a button placket. Download your hack pack at www.colettepatterns.com

We can’t resist a summer jumpsuit pattern and the gorgeous Marigold jumpsuit and trousers offer a world of possibilities when it comes to hacking. You can find 10 design hack ideas, from drawstring-waist dresses to crop tops on the Tilly and the Buttons blog as a fantastic jumping off point to your own designs. Order your pattern for £9.50 (PDF download) or £12.50 (paper pattern) at shop.tillyandthebuttons.com

US sewing pattern designer Pauline Alice is expecting a baby in the autumn and in order to adapt her clothes, she’s been doing a whole lot of hacking! Pauline kindly shares how to adapt her patterns for pregnancy, so you can accommodate a growing tummy and a changing figure. Discover how to hack her patterns to suit pregnancy at www.paulinealice.com/ pregnancy-pauline-alicepatterns/

trousers or a skirt to suit your figure, altering a neckline or changing the fastening option. For instance, a dress pattern might specify an invisible zip down the back but you’d like to instead add a placket and button fastenings.

Try mixing and matching elements from the Simplicity Pattern Hacking range

Not sure where to start? Try practising your skills with the new Simplicity Pattern Hacking collection, featuring easily customisable pieces and stepby-step guides. Find out more at www.simplicitynewlook.com

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Get ahead of the Meet the striking new Singer Legacy C440 ✽ 200 Built-In Stitches ✽ OneTouch™ Stitch Selection ✽ Alpha-Numeric Stitches, Plus Memory ✽ LCD Touch Screen ✽ 13 Buttonhole Styles ✽ Thread Cutter Button ✽ Start & Stop Button ✽ Speed Control ✽ 3 STAYBRIGHT™ LED Lights ✽ Programmable Needle Up/Down ✽ Adjustable Stitch Length, Width and Density ✽ Extra Large Sewing Space AROUND

£599

The world’s favourite sewing machines

Tradition

Join us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter @singersewinguk

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INSPIRATION

CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC Cool cord and colourful stretch denim are fantastic alternatives for summer dressmaking, and these suppliers share their favourites SUMMER CORD, SEW HOT

Rebecca

Two women, two generations, two continents but one passion: to bring the hottest fabric trends and products to the UK and the EU. With a modern sense for design and colour, Rebecca and Pam have gathered an eclectic assortment of products. www.sewhot.co.uk

THREADERS, CRAFTER'S COMPANION

Sunny

Threaders is the up-and-coming brand from Crafter’s Companion. It offers a wide selection of high-quality sewing supplies both online and through stores nationwide. www.crafterscompanion.co.uk/sewing/ threaders.html

Cool Cords Butterfly Jade £14 per metre Part of the Robert Kaufman Cool Cords range, this fun and unusual print is perfect for skirts, dresses and kids’ clothes.

Funky Cactus £11.99 per metre Eagle-eyed stationery lovers will recognise this fab print from a set available from WHSmith, so now you will be able to make perfectly co-ordinating accessories!

Cool Cords Tiles White £14 per metre Corduroy is so versatile! This beautiful print would be fantastic sewn into bags and pouches for a medium-weight, structured and durable project.

Delicate Petals £11.99 per metre This beautifully delicate print in eye-catching peach will be perfect for many summertime makes, from home décor to dressmaking projects!

Cool Cords Spot Pink £14 per metre The overall spot print of this corduroy is perfect for quilt backs, adding that extra touch of weight and warmth needed on cold nights.

Apples & Pears £11.99 per metre Stand out from the crowd with this funky, on-trend design in a modern colour palette that has been printed onto high-quality 100% cotton. The full collection is available as a fat quarter bundle for £15.99

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DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Juliet & Amanda

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HOME

Garden

TEA COSY Bring the garden inside with this pretty floral tea cosy in soft muted tones, the ideal project for a summer afternoon tea

MATERIALS: •• fat quarter main fabric •• fat quarter contrast fabric •• 2 fat quarters lining fabric •• 29x69cm wadding •• tape measure or ruler •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk FABRIC TYPES: Light to medium-weight cotton or linen NOTES: Finished size is approximately 32x25cm, which is suitable for a six-cup teapot. You can easily resize the template to fit your teapot CUTTING: 2 outside main pieces 2 linings

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Machine-stitch the two pieces of wadding together around the curved and side edges and do the same with the lining. Trim and cut notches in all the curved seams so that the seams are smooth when turned inside out. (See Pic E.)

Turn the outside and lining right sides out and press along the seam. Now turn the lining inside out again. (See Pic F.)

2 bands for the bottom of the cosy 2 pieces of wadding for the inside cover 2x64cm strip for the edging 2.5x10cm strip for the tab

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HOW TO MAKE: Cut out the pattern templates, pin onto the fabric and cut out. (See Pic A.)

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Using a 1cm seam allowance, machinestitch the fabric band to the lower part of the pattern for both the front and the back of the cosy. Press the seam open. (See Pic B.)

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To make the tab, fold the strip in half lengthways. Join the ends, and with the sewing machine, stitch along the length, close to the edge. Fold the tab in half. (See Pic C.)

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TIME-SAVING TIP Use a piece of ribbon or lace folded in two instead of making a tab

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Project AMANDA RUSSELL & JULIET BAWDEN

SKILL LEVEL:

curved and side edges, sandwiching the tab in the middle of the curve. (See Pic D.)

Take the two outside main pieces, and with right sides together, pin around the

Layer the tea cosy by pushing the wadding into the cover, then push in the lining. Pin and tack the three layers together along the base. (See Pic G.)

Join the ends of the edging strip using a 1cm seam allowance. On the inside of the cosy, pin and tack the edging strip to the base first, then turn it over the edge, and fold the raw edge of the strip on the outside to neaten. Use the sewing machine to stitch together. (See Pic H.)

Fat Quarter Home by Amanda Russell and Juliet Bawden, published by GMC £12.99, available from www.thegmc group.com

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Sustainable

sewing Are you looking to make your sewing more environmentally friendly? Ditch the disposable plastic and have a go at making your very own reusable Morsbag Words BETHANY ARMITAGE

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n October 2015, England joined the rest of the UK in charging a 5p fee for plastic bags. Since then, England’s plastic bag usage has dropped by around 85%* and more and more people have become aware of the environmental dangers they pose. Plastic bags are not biodegradable and sadly marine wildlife can mistake

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them for food, with terrible consequences. There are still over 500 billion plastic bags used worldwide each year (around 70 per person), according to the group Morsbags, which is on a mission to replace these with upcycled fabric bags for life, preventing them from ending up in our oceans and landfill sites.

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FEATURE

SCRAPSTORES On the hunt for unwanted fabric to make your Morsbag, or perhaps you have a stash you’d like to donate? Check out your local Scrapstore More than 238,00 bags have been sewn!

Spreading the Morsbags message

Download the free pattern from www.morsbags.com

Claire Morsman began the organisation 10 years ago after becoming tired of seeing plastic bags floating in the Grand Union Canal near to her home. She started sewing her own bags from secondhand textiles such as curtains, sheets and tablecloths, and encouraged others to make their own bags and give them to people in the local area. There are now 1,583 ‘pods’ of volunteers around the world making and distributing bags from leftover and secondhand fabric to their communities. More than 238,000 Morsbags have been sewn by everyone from schoolchildren to prisoners, and WI members to soldiers.

GET INVOLVED!

You can download a Morsbags pattern from www.morsbags.com and there’s even a handy video on the website to guide you every step of the way. The basic pattern allows you to create a sturdy shopping bag but you can modify and embellish it as you please, the more eye-catching the better! The only thing the group asks is that you buy an official label to sew on the

outside to help spread the Morsbag message and encourage more people to sew and use them. As well as sewing your very own Morsbag (or 10!), you can join a local Morsbag group, called a ‘pod’. If you can’t find one why not start your own to inspire fellow sewists to get together for an evening of sustainable sewing? Sewists are encouraged to give bags away to friends, family members and colleagues, as well as outside the local supermarket or library, anywhere you think you could catch people’s eye! You could even host a free stall at a market or organise your own sewing class to help spread the word and drum up local publicity.

To find out more about Morsbags and how you can get involved in this brilliant cause, visit www.morsbags.com

Scrapstores offer a brilliant resource for community groups such as arts and crafts clubs, residential care centres, children’s centres and family support groups, providing access to high-quality art and craft materials. There are 80,000 community groups in the UK currently benefiting from the resources, with stock changing daily to include items like fabric, card, paper, paint, cork, wool, gauze and lots, lots more! How do they help the environment? The charity helps to reuse and redistribute retail and industrial items that could otherwise go to landfill, while also helping to provide materials for creative, play and artistic resources for children’s and community groups. Anything from cardboard tubes to posters, string and paper cups can be reused, plus the charity can do all the sorting, saving businesses time and resources. How do I donate? Go to www.scrapstoresuk.com and fill in the donation form to explain what you’re able to give. If you’re donating in bulk or regularly Scrapstore may also be able to arrange a collection service. Can I pick up supplies too? Yes! There are currently over 79 Scrapstores nationwide and each works slightly differently. To access the materials you may need to pay a small individual or group membership fee, while others require you to pay a small donation for whatever you take away with you. Turn over to find out more about your nearest Scrapstore, visit www.scrapstoresuk.com

*According to figures from the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (November 2016).

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DISCOVER

Birmingham We take a closer look at The Scrapstore Birmingham and how it’s working with Morsbags to encourage sustainable sewing

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n 2011, charity Birmingham PlayCare Network set up The Scrapstore Birmingham to collect safe, surplus and clean business waste materials that can be used and upcycled to create innovative play spaces and as resources for artists, students, families, community groups, retirement homes and daycare centres. Scrapstore Birmingham aims to encourage communities to consider reusing materials rather than only buying new and offers them at a reduced cost

Josh

Josh Mitchell, Project Worker responsible for The Birmingham Scrapstore, tells us more about the charity’s work and how you can get involved

How does Scrapstore help promote sustainable sewing? The Scrapstore provides people with numerous different ways in which their sewing can be sustainable. We currently receive large amounts of material donations. These may be full rolls of material or offcuts, all of which would otherwise end up in landfill. We can then pass on these pieces of material to members to be used for new projects. It's a great alternative to people buying new, as not only is material very expensive new, it also helps us to reduce landfill. Whenever we receive new stock we post photos onto our Facebook page (www. facebook.com/BirminghamScrapStore) so that people can see the types of resources we have. Often this means that

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to the customer. For example, registered childminders can take away a large sack of resources for £4. Through its fantastic work, the charity has been awarded accolades such as Birmingham’s Best Waste Reduction Scheme for 2013 after collecting and redistributing 35 tonnes of scrap material. Discover more about The Birmingham Scrapstore and how to get involved by calling 0121 236 2917 or visiting www.bpcn.org.uk/scrapstore

any in-demand resources, or particularly nice pieces of material, can fly out of the door. We also receive large amounts of wool and yarn, which has helped us to promote sustainability through all sorts of textile crafts. How is The Scrapstore working with Morsbags? We were the first Morsbag pod in central Birmingham, and currently the leading Birmingham pod. The idea isn't that we make the most Morsbags, it's that everyone can be involved. So if anyone approaches us in need of material we are always happy to help, and have managed to provide material

to other Morsbags pods in the local area. Recently we have been able to acquire a number of sewing machines and this has given us the opportunity to loan them to anyone in need, which in turn has helped more people to contribute. With these machines we have been able to assist local sewing groups to get started, including one at a local retirement village. We have also been fortunate enough to have been supplied with some notions from Korbond. All of this has helped us to achieve a total of over 700 Morsbags, with many more to come! What advice do you have for anyone looking to make their sewing more environmentally friendly? The best advice I could give would be to use your local Scrapstore. Aside from being cheaper for the sewist, it will have a large selection of material that would otherwise be in landfill. You can be more environmentally friendly by passing on unwanted materials to your local Scrapstore. We are always happy to take material as long as it is clean. A big part of being environmentally friendly is using local resources, be that a Scrapstore or your local haberdashery. By using local goods we can help reduce carbon footprints and support the environment. How can readers get involved? If you visit the ReUsefulUK website at www.scrapstoresuk.org, you find a map guiding you to your nearest site. They will be more than happy to help you get involved, be that as a user, a volunteer or just helping to spread the Scrapstore word.

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Molly Felicity Designs original designs made with you in mind Like our fabrics but want to make something yourself? Molly Felicity Designs are now offering vintage inspired fabrics and prints so you can create something wonderful yourself

www.mollyfelicitydesigns.com

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SUMMER PATTERN OFFER

SAVE 20%

Was £8.99

NOW £7.19

Was £9.25

NOW £7.40

McCall’s 7593 Misses' Sleeveless Pullover Dresses with Neckline & Length Variations Sizes: 6-14, 14-22

Kwik Sew 4171 Misses' Elastic Waist Tulip-hem Dresses Sizes XS-XL

Was £9.25

NOW £7.40

Was £14

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Was £8.95

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Butterick 6349 Misses' Handkerchief or Straight-hem Dresses with V-Neck Sizes XS-M, L-XXL

McCall’s 6953 Misses' Dresses Sizes 6-14, 14-22

Vogue 8810 Misses'/Misses' Petite Dress and Belt Sizes 8-16, 16-24

Whether you’re heading to the beach this season or attending a glamorous occasion, this amazing 20% discount on Butterick, McCall’s, Kwik Sew and Vogue dress patterns will help your summer wardrobe stand out from the crowd. See the full collection online at www.sewdirect.com To claim the offer, call 0344 880 1263, quoting SEWNOW10 before 3rd August 2017* *Not available online. P&P charges still apply SN10.P48.indd 48

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INSPIRATION

Butterfly home throw by Matthew Williamson £130, www.debenhams.com

Karlsson origami wall clock £45, www.paperchase.co.uk

Loft oval mirror £69, www.marksandspencer.com

GEOMETRIC bedroom

New York wall art £54.99, www.tkmaxx.co.uk

HomeSense geometric bedroom, www.tkmaxx.co.uk

Cera table lamp £119, www.furniturevillage.co.uk

Geo cushion £5, www.george.com Tuli table lamp £25, www.made.com

Vibrant colours and strong prints can really make an impression on your personal space Newton shaggy rug from £20, www.jdwilliams.co.uk

Iron shelving unit £395, www.cuckooland.com

Geometric armchair £179.99, www.tkmaxx.co.uk WWW.SEW NOW MAG .C O.UK

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Ditsy denim

BACKPACK

Debbie

Create this stylish rucksack featuring stunning hand embroidery and fabulous floral fabric Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER

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ACCESSORY MATERIALS & TOOLS •• 100x70cm strip Pretty Ditsy Dream from Lavish by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics (Fabric A) •• 50x85cm Trellis Plaid Fresh from Lavish by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics (Fabric B – lining) •• 50x120cm Indigo Shadow Solid Smooth Denim from Denim Studio for Art Gallery Fabrics (Fabric C) •• 85cm H640 fusible interfacing •• fat quarter Vlieseline Decovil fusible interfacing •• fat quarter S133 Vlieseline strong fusible interfacing •• fat quarter Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing •• fat quarter Vlieseline S320 fusible interfacing •• Vlieseline Bundfix tape •• light green, light and medium pink, white, teal & orange matt embroidery cotton •• Kam snap •• 2 2.5cm silver rectangle rings •• 2 2.5cm silver tri sliders •• 2 plain wooden beechwood beads with large holes (approximately 12mm) •• co-ordinating threads for topstitching & quilting (the base) •• 1m medium piping cord •• water-soluble marker •• double-sided tape •• template download from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk NOTES: All seams are 0.5cm unless otherwise stated

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HOW TO MAKE: Begin by making the top rucksack handle. Fuse a 20cm length of Bundfix to the wrong side of a 20x7cm piece of Fabric A. Fold and top-stitch along to close, and then on the opposite side to decorate plus twice more to strengthen. (See Pic A.) Trim the ends. This will be attached to the top of the flap with the ends tucked under.

The adjustable straps are made in the same way as the top handle using two 100x7cm strips of Fabric A fused to a 1m piece of Bundfix. When you have the strap made, secure one end to the middle bar of the bag slider. (See Pic B.) Repeat for second strap.

From the S133, cut a piece the same size as the denim and put it aside.

Thread the machine with dark blue thread and quilt a classic straight channel pattern with lines about 2.5cm apart onto the base oval, going just beyond the shape that you have drawn. (See Pic C.)

Fuse the S133 to the wadding side of the denim panel. Lay it onto a piece of Style-Vil and stitch together on the oval line just drawn. Cut the base oval out just outside the stitching line. (See Pic D.) Just give yourself enough space so as not to lose your stitches. It will be reinforced properly when the piping goes in so it only needs to hold for a minute.

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Make a tab using 20cm of Fabric A fused to Bundfix. Top-stitch and cut in half to make two 10cm pieces. Enclose a rectangle ring in each. These will go onto the back of the base, 7cm each side of the centre seam, and then will carry the adjustable straps.

It’s a good time to practise basic quilting skills when making the base of the bag

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The drawstring is made from Fabric C. Cut a 4x120cm length, fold it in half lengthways and press. Fold the raw edges to the centre to make a 1cm-wide strap. Top-stitch with co-ordinating thread down both sides and knot the ends. This will be fed through the lined casing at the end.

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For the base, cut a 35x25cm piece of Fabric C fuse it to a piece of H640 the same size. Draw the oval onto the denim side using a water-soluble marker or similar. This is a handy reference for quilting.

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Make 85cm of piping using the piping cord and 85cm-long bias strips of Fabric A (3.5cm wide). Edge the bag base with piping. (See Pic E.)

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For the flap, cut a 30x35cm piece of Fabric C and fuse it on wrong side of a same size piece of H640. Using the flap template, draw the outline of the flap onto Fabric C. Allowing room for the trim,

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draw the embroidery design. Before you embroider, cut and assemble the other flap components and put them aside.

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Use the template to cut a flap lining piece and also fuse this on the wrong side to a piece of H640.

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Cut the trim piece from Decovil and then take a piece of Fabric C, but this time turn it over and use the wrong side.

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Fuse the Decovil trim to what is actually the right side of the denim and then cut it out. Leave about 2cm on the inner curve and trim the rest flush with the interfacing. (See Pic F.)

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Snip the denim around the inner curve, not quite going as far as the interfacing. Use double-sided tape to fold this edge over and adhere. (See Pic G.) These two pieces are now ready to use.

“COPY THE FLORAL HAND EMBROIDERY ONTO A TOTE BAG OR EVEN A TOP“

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The embroidery uses very simple stitches – chain stitch, lazy daisy stitch, French knots and straight stitch. For the large flower, begin with the darker pink chain stitch (three strands), go to the lighter pink straight stitch (two strands) and finish with an orange chain-stitch centre (three strands). (See Pic H.) For the leaves, use light green straight stitch (two strands). (See Pic I.) The small flowers use a teal straight stitch (two strands). (See Pic J.) For the filler buds, stitch white French knots (two strands). (See Pic K.) When the embroidery is finished, lay the trim over the front and attach with a narrow topstitch around the inner curve. (See Pic L.)

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With right sides together, lay the lining over the top of the untrimmed embroidered front. Stitch around the outer curve and also the flat top edge, leaving a turning gap. Trim the main front back. Clip the curve and turn out through the gap. Press well and top-stitch the outer edge of the curve. (See Pic M.)

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Measure down 4.5cm from the flat edge and about 2cm in from the inner edge of the trim and affix the handle by turning the ends under and topstitching. (See Pic N.) The flap is now ready to use.

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For the front pocket, cut a 12x20cm piece of S320 interfacing. Fuse centrally to the wrong side of a piece of Fabric A, which is about 1cm larger all around. Cut a piece of lining the same size as the outer fabric and with right sides together, sew all around on the edge of the interfacing. Leave a turning gap on the

Contrasting straps are the perfect finishing touch bottom. Trim back the seam allowance to ‘normal’ and clip the corners. (See Pic O.)

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Turn out through the gap and press so that the edges are perfect and then site the pocket onto the front as described in the next section.

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The flap has the same principle. Use the template to cut a flap shape from S320. Fuse to slightly larger Fabric A and add some lining the same size. Sew around the perimeter, again, right on the

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ACCESSORY very edge of the interfacing and this time leave the turning gap in the long flat edge. Trim the seam allowance and clip the corners and the curve. (See Pic P.) Turn out through the gap. Press the edges perfectly. Sew a very narrow topstitch around the curved edge. The flap is now ready to add.

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Cut an 85x36cm piece of Fabric C and fuse it to a piece of H640 the same size. Fold it in half with the two short sides together. Crease. This vertical crease is on the middle front. Site the pocket and flap 3.5cm up from the bottom on the centre crease and top-stitch on with a narrow seam. (See Pic Q.) The flap, 3cm above the pocket, has a double topstitch. (See Pic R.) Add a Kam snap closure in the middle bottom of the flap.

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Make a tie casing from 85x10cm Fabric A. Fold it in half lengthways with right sides together and sew up one short end along the long side and down the other short end, leaving a gap on the long side for turning. Turn out through the gap and press so that the edges are perfect. The casing is now ready to use and will be attached in the final steps.

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Cut an 85x36cm piece from Fabric B. Make a lined slip pocket using the same method used for the bottom portion of the front pocket with the same measurements. To counter any sagging, make a vertical seam in the centre of the pocket once it is on – this is also a useful divider.

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Fold the lining in half with the short ends together and make a centre crease. Site the pocket on the centre crease with a narrow topstitch as before, 10cm down from the top edge. You can make other smaller pockets too if necessary. The pockets can be any size but be aware that the bag will curve when closed, just keep them away from that seam!

a narrow topstitch and lining-matching thread in the bobbin attach the drawstring casing.

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Sew the main bag up the back seam with no gaps. Attach it to the base, keeping the tabs on the right side of the bag. Clip the base on the curve.

Now to attach the flap and straps. The flap goes onto the centre back with a double row of topstitching about 1cm apart so that the raw edges of the adjustable straps are secure and hidden. Poke the strap ends inside by about 2cm so the ends will not be seen when the flap is opened and they will reap the benefit of the extra strength of the double topstitching too and be very unlikely to come loose (remember that they are carrying most of the weight of the bag). The strap ends are already attached to the middle bar of the bag sliders as shown earlier. Take them down through the rectangle rings in the bottom tabs, back through the bag sliders and secure them under the edge of the flap either side of the centre. (See Pic S.)

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With the right sides together, sew the back seam of the lining leaving a turning gap part way down. Using the same oval template as before, cut a base piece from the lining fabric and attach it to the main lining. The lining is now finished.

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With the bag outer the right way out and the lining inside out, pull the lining on over the outer and match the top seams exactly. Remember that the centre seam is at the front. Sew around the top edge. Turn the bag out through the gap in the lining and close it. Top-stitch around the top with a narrow seam and matching thread. Smooth the lining down well and pin the casing 1cm down from the top edge of the bag. With

Attach the flap to the back of the bag right under the casing. Use a double topstitch in co-ordinating thread. Feed the drawstring through the casing and tie a wooden bead at each end, trimming as necessary. You need it to be long enough to draw the bag in and make a generous bow. Finish with a Kam snap in the middle of the bottom of the flap and the corresponding one on the front of the bag. (See Pic T.)

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DISCOUNTS GIVEAWAYS Lovely sewing goodies and patterns to win, plus generous discounts to help fill your fabric stash WIN A FABRIC BUNDLE FROM MINERVA CRAFTS

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7 TO WIN! Annabelle is available in sizes 6-22 and has easy-fit gathering instead of darts, raglan sleeves and an eyecatching yoke. This pattern isn’t yet available to buy online so we are delighted to have seven copies of the pattern to give away this issue! You can find more great dressmaking patterns at www.simplesewpatterns.com

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STYLE files

Standout styles we would love to wear or make

Pair it with a m skirt for a greaaxi summer look t

Testament to smart fabric placement, this effortless boxy tee shows how a simple shape can be transformed into an out-of-the-ordinary garment. Minimal texture is added in the form of crocheted trim at the neckline to create subtle balance, and the turned-back kimono sleeve makes this an easy look to wear. Take note! Leah Placement jersey tee ÂŁ39.95, www.whitestuff.com

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Kimono

DRESS This is loosely based on the Japanese kimono. The basic shape is a rectangle that wraps around the body and is secured with an obi-style sash Project JENNIFFER TAYLOR www.jenniffertaylor.co.uk

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Girl with a Sewing Machine by Jenniffer Taylor is published by Search Press, £18.99 www.search press.com

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STYLE SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 1–2m medium/lightweight fabric •• 25cm interfacing BODY MEASUREMENTS: A Shoulder to shoulder plus approximately 20cm. Ensure this measurement is more than half your largest body measurement. The measurement will need to be larger by 10cm, then add 5cm for seam allowances B Shoulder to length plus 5cm for seam allowances and hem C Shoulder to waist – belt position D Shoulder to front bust – armhole measurement NOTES: Seam allowance throughout the project is variable so use as stated HOW TO MAKE: Cut two pieces of fabric using your shoulder to shoulder (width) and the shoulder to length (length) calculations (A and B), giving you two large rectangles of fabric. Pin them right sides together along one short side – this will become the top of the dress. Using a straight stitch, begin to sew in from the side of the fabric by about 20cm using a seam allowance of approximately 2.5cm (don’t forget a reverse stitch at the beginning and end of the stitching line). Repeat on the other side of the fabric to create two shoulder seams. Try the garment to check you have a large

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enough hole for your head and that it sits on your shoulders properly. Adjust as necessary by marking the position with pins. If you have made adjustments, remember to do a quick fold check to make sure the neckline is even on both sides before sewing in place. (See Pic A.)

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With the wrong sides of the fabric facing you, press over a double hem on one side of the raw edge seam and pin in place. Repeat with the other seam allowance. Even if you have only slightly curved the neckline you will need to clip the seam so that it lies nice and flat against the body; only do this 1cm into the seam so any cuts are not visible on the back of the hem. (See Pic B.)

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With a straight stitch, secure the double hem, finishing the shoulder seams as well as the neckline in one long stitch (I used contrast thread here to make it clear). You may want to match up your seam with the edge of the presser foot to give you a clean and straight topstitch. (See Pic C.)

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Before sewing the side seams together try on the garment again to find your armhole position by pinning it in place first and adjusting it. Alternatively, use your shoulder to front bust measurement by placing the tape measure tip on the shoulder seam and marking the measurement with a pin. With right sides together, pin along the side seam edge from the armhole position to the bottom hem. Sew along this length using a 2.5cm seam allowance. (See Pic D.)

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Press the seams open and continue to press over a 2.5cm single hem around the armhole. (See Pic E.)

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Repeating the process in Step 2, press the fabric under to make a double hem along the entire side seams and armhole. You can pin this in place if it makes it easier. (See Pic F.)

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Secure the double hem with a straight stitch, using the edge of the presser foot as the seam allowance guide. To ensure your underarm and neckline stitches do not become weak over time, sew a line of stitching between the two lines of parallel stitching, close to the opening of the armhole. Sew over this line a few times by using a reverse stitch. (See Pic G.)

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To make the obi-style belt, cut a strip of fabric approximately twice your waist measurement and 10–15cm wide. Cut a piece of interfacing the same length but half the width. Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the belt. (See Pic H.)

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Fold the belt back on itself with right sides together and all edges matching before pinning in place. Starting at one end on the folded side, sew a straight stitch towards the corner. You can make this edge tapered (as shown) by sewing at an angle if you prefer. Leaving the needle in the fabric, rotate and continue along the belt for 10cm or so before securing with a backstitch. Repeat at the other end, but this time stop sewing about 10cm from your previous

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“THE KIMONO DRESS HAS QUITE A SHARP BOAT NECKLINE. IF THIS IS TOO CLOSE TO THE NECK FOR YOU, FEEL FREE TO ADJUST IT“

belt through, sew a continuous line of topstitching around the edge until you get back to where you started. (See Pic K.) Continue to sew over the original stitching a little before reverse-stitching to finish. Use a hand-sewing needle to thread the loose threads back into the belt so they cannot be seen.

11 Jenny stitches so you can turn the belt through later. Clip away the bulk in the corners. (See Pic I.) Turn through, making sure the tips of the corners are nice and crisp. (See Pic J)

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To give more structure and to close the gap you left to pull your

Before pinning the belt on the garment, find the centre point of the belt by folding it in half lengthways and marking with a pin. Taking the garment, do the same by folding the side seams together and marking the fold with a pin; this will be the centre back. Remember, if you have shaped the neckline make sure you are doing this to the back of the dress. Now find the waistline position by using the shoulder to waist measurement (C). Using the tape measure and the centre-back pin as a guide, mark the correct position with another pin. Mark the side seams with the same shoulder to waist measurement so it makes the next step easier. You now need to match up the

centre of the belt with the centre back of the garment first then align the belt with the points you have marked on the side seams. Pin it in place. (See Pic L.)

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Secure the belt to the back of the dress with a straight stitch – try to sew over the original topstitching on the belt. When you get to the side seam, sew in line with it by placing the needle into the fabric and rotating it first, then continue stitching until you meet the other side of the belt’s topstitching. Continue stitching and rotating until you reach where you started. You may not be able to see where this position is, but if you check on the wrong side of the garment without removing it from the sewing machine it will be visible. (See Pic M.)

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Make sure you go over the original stitching a little bit before doing a reverse stitch to finish. To create a double hem, press over a 1.5cm strip of fabric all the way around. Repeat this process to create a double hem and secure with a topstitch.

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INSPIRATION

Team talk

Editorial Assistant

What’s on the Sew Now team’s radar this month and what’s inspiring us to get sewing! GO-TO PLACE FOR INTERIOR IDEAS

Jenny

FAVOURITE FABRIC

Stylist

A big dream of mine is to have a whitewashed house with minimalist style and filled with amazing Scandinavian furniture and home furnishings. This is why I love perusing my favourite interior shop called MOTH, which is based in Manchester. It’s an interior designer’s dream; there are so many must-have pieces for the home, all hand-picked with love. There are independent European designers that you won’t find on the high street, so I always feel that I am getting a one-off item. Visit www.mothstyle.com to find out more.

I just used a beautiful John Kaldor abstract floral print satin fabric from www.minervacrafts.com to sew a dress to wear to my friend’s wedding this summer. The fabric was a little tricky to sew with, but a dream to wear and complemented the simple dress pattern wonderfully.

Jo

FAVOURITE BUY

Deputy Editor

The best thing I’ve bought this month has to be this gorgeous Be Still my Bakewell Tart pin from Simon Says Pins! I love the adorable pun and the glittery cherry in the middle meant I just couldn’t resist treating myself. Pick up yours for £8 from www.simonsayspins.bigcartel.com

Bethany

RECOMMENDED READ ONLINE INSPIRATION

It’s love Pinterest! I hear people say that Pinterest is too aspirational or a time suck, but I think of it as an actual hobby! I like sorting through my boards, adding and organising. I suppose it is a modernday equivalent to stamp collecting in that respect. You can see my boards at uk.pinterest.com/jeanettearcher/

Seamstress

Editor

I’m a natural fidget and wherever I am I need something to do, which is normally a crafty activity. That’s why I love the Supercraft book, which is bursting with ideas from painting to paper cutting and crochet to cross stitch. Handily divided into seasonal projects, it’s got something for literally every weekend of the year. The sunny lamp is next on my list!

Sam

Jeanette

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Sustainable tailoring:

Narrowing a pencil skirt at the hips

Jamie

Get the perfect pencil skirt fit by adjusting the hips, with step-by-step guidance from Jamie Kemp Words JAMIE KEMP www.maledevonsewing.co.uk

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he pencil skirt has been in fashion since its inception in 1954 by Christian Dior as part of his H-Line collection. It was simply a shortened version of the hobble skirt of the early 1900s, and women around the world fell in love with it. This straight, slim-fitting skirt is designed to flatter the wearer by accenting the waistline, hips and legs. A well-fitting pencil skirt does exactly that but all too often they don’t fit well, making the effect less than flattering. Apart from the length of the skirt, which is dictated by current trends and personal preference, the two common areas of poor fit are the waist and hips – the very two

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areas the skirt is designed to highlight. Many pencil skirts today are made of stretch fabric so fitting issues are less of a problem as the fabric moulds to the wearer’s shape. A tailored skirt, however, will use darts and shaped seams to achieve the desired look. In this two-part feature we will look at adjusting the hip and waistline on a tailored skirt to get the perfect fit.

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The hip area of the skirt is a common problem as quite often a skirt that fits well on the waist will be too large around the hips, creating an odd, baggy shape over the hips. The image shows the actual hip shape (black line) and you can see how the skirt is bagging out. (See Pic A.)

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Turn the skirt inside out and look at the seams over the hip area. Most seams will be pressed open to reduce bulk so press them back flat. Now put the skirt on, still inside out. Fasten correctly and ensure it is sitting well on the waist. If the skirt is lined lift the lining up out of the way. (See Pic B.)

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This is where a second pair of hands is useful. Pinch out any bagginess over the hip area and pin halfway between original seam line and the actual hips. Repeat for the other side of the skirt. Remember to leave a little ease so the skirt won’t be too tight on the hips! (See Pic C.)

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TUTORIAL

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“THIS STRAIGHT, SLIM-FITTING SKIRT IS DESIGNED TO FLATTER THE WEARER“

Remove the skirt and baste along the pinned seam you created. Remove pins as you baste. Do this for both side seams. (See Pic D.)

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If you don’t yet own a tailor’s hip curve now is the time to buy one. They are inexpensive and really useful, not just for pencil skirts but anywhere a gentle curve is required. Using the basting as a guide, draw a gentle curve. Blend the curve from the original seam line at the top out to the original seam towards the bottom. (See Pic E.)

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Machine-stitch along the newly drawn curve. Start parallel to the original seam line and carefully over-sew by a few inches. At the bottom of the curve do the same and over-sew the original seam. (See Pic F.)

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You will have now created a new seam. It will be difficult to press the seam flat

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so very carefully unpick the old stitches the length of the new seam. Trim any excess fabric to the original seam width and finish. Press well. (See Pic G.)

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Try on the skirt and see how much better it fits. No more odd shapes! If the skirt is lined you may want to repeat the process just for the lining to ensure a really good fit. (See Pic H.) Next month we will tackle adjusting a pencil skirt where the waist is too big, so until next time happy sewing.

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Support your local sewing shop F REE Pattern & Booka zine Offer

VISIT YOUR LOCAL SHOP TO CLAIM YOUR FREE GIFTS

To claim your free gifts, spend £15 in any of our participating stores and then choose one beginner-friendly Simple Sew pattern and a copy of Bagmaking Essentials, packed with inspirational designs and must-have accessories! ABERGAVENNY

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15 Market Street, Cinderford, Gloucestershire, GL14 2RT 01594 825 385 Visit us in the Forest of Dean for all of your sewing and alteration needs. We have a growing selection of fabric, haberdashery, sewing patterns, and more! We are now holding sewing lessons for all levels of skill! If you’d like to learn how to create beautiful items for your home, please contact us for details!

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01291 627 056 www.thesewingshopchepstow.com Cotton dress and quilting fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Gutermann. Teaching in small groups for beginners and more experienced, dress making, zips, and more!

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DEVON

Knit Wits & Fabrics

Shirmart Crafts

For all your sewing, quilting, and haberdashery requirements. 1000's fabrics and patterns, classes weekly. Plus knitting and crochet too.

Spend £15.00 on fabric and get 100m Guttermann thread free, just produce this ad! 28a High Street, Dereham, Norfolk, NR19 1DR 01362 652 961 www.knitwitsdereham.co.uk

For all of your cardmaking, jewellery, knitting, crocheting and sewing needs. 77 High Street Ilfracombe Devon EX34 9NQ Open 6 days a week. ✆ 07976 603823 ✆ 01271 268353

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patchwork, and crafting work! I do a range of groups and workshops each week. Please contact me for further details. Open 9.00 - 17.00 Closed Thursday and Sunday

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*Minimum in-store spend of £15 applies. To take advantage of this offer please hand this voucher over the counter with your contact details. Your free pattern and bookazine will be sent directly to you from Practical Publishing Int Ltd. Please ensure all your details are completed in black ink. By taking advantage of this offer you are agreeing to join the Practical Publishing Int Ltd e-newsletter list. You may opt out of this at any time. Your details will not be shared with any third party companies. Please allow 2-4 weeks for your free gifts to arrive. Available while stocks last. UK offer only. Only stores listed on these pages (68-70) of Sew Now issue 10 are participating in this offer.

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Sewing Machines & Craft

Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will find exactly what you are looking for. The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

Brother Sewing Machines with 0% finance over £599.00! Sewing accessories, fat quarters, threads, Bosal foam stabiliser, plus lots more!

Over 1000 lines of fabric & haberdash craftybaba.co.uk Tel 01473 210636

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SURREYLYNN KINGS

The Fent Shop Huge stock of everything for the needleworker. Established in Kings Lynn over 50 years ago, a real 'Aladdin's cave' of Beautiful and workshops fabrics fabrics and haberdashery. where you will find a warm and 41 Broad Street, Kings Lynn, friendly welcome. Norfolk, PE30 1DP

Unit 66, Basepoint, The Havens, 01553 Ipswich768613 IP3 9BF kisquiltingltd@yahoo.co.uk www.thefentshopkingslynn.co.uk 01473 722888

LEICESTERSHIRE

32 Bridge Road, Hampton Court Village, East Molesey, Surrey KT8 9HA

Shop open 7 days a week Designer fabrics, 1000s of bolts, books,Brother notions, sewing machines, haberdashery, buttons & beads and bag making sewing workshops, accessories parties. Classes & Workshops Secure Online Shopping

www.creativequilting.co.uk isabelle@creativequilting.co.uk 020 8941 7075

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A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions.

A unique collection quality We run weekly classes andofworkshops. dress fabrics and trims, We also stock wool. based in the New Forest. Our fabrics are all year round with an up No.1 St classics Teilo Street toPontarddulais date twist. Swansea, SA4 8TH

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NORTHWICH Cheshire

The Sew Easy Sewing Shop Need haberdashery in Northwich? Look no further than Sew Easy! We’ve a huge selection of fabric, needlecraft, sewing machines, patterns, and haberdashery products. 80 Witton Street, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 5AE

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SCOTLAND

WORTHING

• Servicing and repairs on all makes and models of sewing machines from £40 • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories • Friendly, knowledgeable service

1 The Broadway, Brighton Road Worthing, BN11 3EG T: 01903 200771 E: katybobbin@gmail.com

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SURREY LEICESTER

A family run business based in Ulverston, the Lake District, housing over 500 fabrics. Running sewing classes from beginners to patchwork & quilting and lampshade making. Also making unique childrens clothing.

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Extensive Range Of Fabrics, Haberdashery, Needlecraft Accessories & Sewing Workshops

Extensive range of Fabrics, Wool, Haberdashery, Craft Kits & Workshops. Including: Liberty, Kaffe Fassett, Micheal Miller, Riley Blake, Fabric Freedom, Rowan, King Cole, Stylecraft

Tel: 01455 556287

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Your NEW one stop sewing shop! Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter.

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PETERBOROUGH

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Mrs Sew n Sew is a treasure trove of dressmaking necessities. Dress fabric, patterns, trims and much more to satisfy all your sewing needs. We also run sewing and craft workshops through out the year.

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www.sewcreative.org.uk Please come and visit my shop

fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, or order online workshops more Gorgeous fabrics and& sewing supplies for dressmakers, quilters and crafters. 20-22 Lavant Street, PETERSFIELD, Workshops, classesGU32 and sewing Hampshire, 3EW café.

Welcome to my lovely craft emporium! We have lots of crafty goodies for sale however support, inspiration and the service with a smile are free!

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Open 9.00am - 5.30pm Monday to Saturday

T: 01730 858020 www.gillybee.co.uk 2 Cucumber Lane, Brundall, Norwich, NR13 5QY

68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com

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Offering a warm friendly welcome, supplying quality fabrics for dressmaking and quilting. Weekly sewing sessions Weekend workshops Elna/Janome stockist Machine servicing and repairs Bespoke commissions undertaken

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Craft Courses & Parties, Online Store, Dress & Furnishing Fabrics, and much much more!

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INSPIRATION

1

Floral blazer £42, www.wallis.co.uk

2

4

Miller Dress £179, www.hobbs.co.uk

3

Floral trousers £40, www.wallis.co.uk

SHOP IT OR SEW IT Wedding season is upon us, so take inspiration from the high street and sew your own

Ivory print flared-sleeve Bardot top £29, www.simplybe.co.uk

1. Burda Style 6898 Misses’ Coordinates & Pants Suit Sizes UK 10-22 £7.19 www.jaycotts.co.uk

2. New Look 6298 Misses' Dresses with Neckline Variations Sizes 8-18 £6.75 www.craftstash.co.uk

Bright pink tie-back wide-leg jumpsuit £22.99, www.newlook.com

3. McCall's 7163 Misses' Peasant Tops Sizes 4-14,16-22 £9.25 www.sew essential.co.uk

4. Tilly and the Buttons Marigold Jumpsuit & Trousers Sizes 6-20 £12.50 www.tillyandthe buttons.com

WWW.SEW NOW MAG .C O.UK

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Playtime DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

PIXEL DRESS

This charming A-line dress is the perfect skill builder. Short puffed sleeves, patch pockets and front bib detail mean you can have fun matching the binding to your fabric print! Project FIONA HESFORD www.sewgirl.co.uk

Fiona

GET THE LOOK

Woodland Clearing Lawn Pixel Flowers in Turquoise by Liesl Gibson for Robert Kaufman 112cm-wide soft cotton lawn with great drape, ideal summer wear £14 per metre www.eclecticmaker.co.uk

Lola girls strap sandal £12, www.very.co.uk

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KIDS

FABRIC TYPES: Light or medium-weight cotton NOTES: Use a 1.5cm seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Finish the raw edges with a machine zigzag stitch or overlocker CUTTING: Front – cut 1 Back – cut 2 Sleeves and pocket – cut 2 Bib – cut 1

1

Selvedge

LAYPLAN 112cm-wide fabric (no nap)

Front cut 1 Back cut 2 Cut on fold

MATERIALS: •• 3 1-1.5cm buttons to match seam binding •• small button & strand of embroidery thread for back fastening •• 2.5m 25mm-wide bias seam binding •• 15x10cm medium-weight fusible interfacing •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

HOW TO MAKE: Iron interfacing to the reverse of the bib piece. Trim 5mm from one unfolded edge of the binding and pin to the right side of the outer curved edge. Stretch the binding at the curved edges, cutting a few nicks to help form the curve. (See Pic A.) Sew a 1cm seam and fold over the reverse. (See Pic B.) Press. Pin to the neck edge at the centre front and hand-tack to hold in place. (See Pic C.) Sew all around close to the folded edge of the binding and press. (See Pic D.)

Fold

SKILL LEVEL:

2

Sew the back pieces together at the centre back seam. Finish the raw edges and press seams open. (See Pic E.)

3

Sew the front to the back at the shoulder seams. Finish the raw edges. Press seam towards back. (See Pic F.)

Bib Pocket cut 2

4

Stretch the seam binding slightly to match the neckline curve. Pin the seam binding to the neck edge with right sides together. Sew a 1cm seam allowance

5-6 yrs

7-8 yrs

9-10 yrs

11-12 yrs

Height

110-116cm

122-128cm

134-140cm

146-152cm

Chest

58-61cm

63-66cm

69-72cm

75-78cm

Waist

55-56cm

57-59cm

61-63.5cm

65.5-68cm

cut 1

“REPLACE THE BUTTON AND LOOP WITH A HOOK AND EYE FASTENING IF YOU PREFER“

SIZING Size

Sleeve cut 2

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS Age

5-6 yrs

7-8 yrs

9-10 yrs

11-12 yrs

112-wide fabric

90cm

100cm

110cm

120cm

Bethany

A

B

C

D

E

F

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We love this cute retro detail!

G

around the neck edge. (See Pic G.) Trim away the seam allowance and fold the binding over to the reverse. Press, pin, tack-stitch and then sew binding all around on the right side. (See Pic H.) Turn under the far ends of the binding and stitch by hand. Attach a button and loop or hook and eye fastening. (See Pic I.)

H

I

5

With right sides together, sew the front to the back at the sides below the armhole. Finish the raw edges and press the seam allowance towards the back.

6

Sew the sleeve right sides together at the short underarm seam. Finish the raw edges. Press and repeat for the other sleeve piece. Attach seam binding as before to the sleeves at the straight edge. (See Pic J.)

J

K

L

M

N

O

7 8

Gather the top curved edge of the sleeve head. (See Pic K.)

Pin the sleeve to the armhole edge, easing the gathers evenly. Tack then machine-stitch in place. Finish the raw edges. (See Pic L.)

9

Attach seam binding at the top edge of the pocket as before. Finish the raw edges of the three remaining sides of the pocket pieces. (See Pic M.)

10

Fold over 1cm at the three finished pocket edges. Press. Pin to the dress front in position as shown on the template. Hand-tack the pockets then machine-sew around the three sides 3mm from the edge. (See Pic N.)

11

Hem the lower edge of the dress as required and sew on three buttons at the bib front as shown to finish. (See Pic O.)

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E

e V SA %t ord 20r firs

up yogn u onou si ny he w

to

FREE dress pattern

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13/06/2017 15:37


FREE PATTERN SKILLS TUTORIAL

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TUTORIAL

LEARN TO SEW SLEEVES The flat insertion method Build your skill set with our handy guide to sleeves

T

his month’s free Kwik Sew 3553 pattern features a great pair of PJs. You could make them in cool cotton for summer, a warmer fabric such as a brushed cotton, as I have, or even sumptuous satin or silk. This pattern is a great opportunity to get to grips with a simple method where the sleeves are put in flat, ie before the armhole is made. It’s worth noting that this pattern only has a 6mm seam allowance, so the seams will be narrow.

Alison

1

On the sleeve head between the notches, insert two rows of long stitches on the machine – they must be inside the 6mm seam allowance so take care when sewing as you don’t want the stitching to show. (See Pic A.)

2

Stitch the shoulder seam, with 6mm seam allowance and overlock or zigzag-stitch raw edges together. If using an overlocker you can use a three or four-thread overlock stitch. I’ve used a four-thread stitch, which is

A

D

around 6mm wide. Finishing stitches ensure strength as PJs are washed often. (See Pic B.)

3

Match the sleeve to the shoulder seam and front and back of the top and pin at the sleeve head. (See Pic C.) Pin at the side seams and round to the notches. Gently tighten the ease stitches so the fabric shrinks into place, but is not gathered. Pin. (See Pic D.)

4

Machine-stitch the sleeves in place with a regular straight stitch and overlock or zizag-stitch to finish. Press the seam allowance toward the sleeve. (See Pic E.)

5 6

Sew along the length of the sleeve and overlock or zigzag-stitch. (See Pic F.)

Working from the right side of the garment, top-stitch the seam allowance to the sleeve. Again this will make the seam more washable, and more comfortable to wear as the inside of the top will be smooth. (See Pic G.) Methods of setting in sleeves can vary from pattern to pattern. See the right-hand column for two other step-by-step tutorials to help you get to grips with the technique.

B

E

EASING BY MACHINE This method, similar to the technique outlined in our steps, uses machinegathering to contract the sleeve to ensure it fits into the armhole after the side bodice seam has been sewn. www.tillyandthe buttons. com/2013/02/ how-to-insertsleeve.html

EASING BY HAND Also known as the bubble method, this uses the same principle of easing the sleeve in to the armhole. This tutorial shows you how to spread the ease by dividing the fabric and using the stretch in the bias of the armhole to sew evenly. www.blueprintsforsewing.com/blog/ tutorial-setting-in-sleeves

C

F

G

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Adapted from How to Quilt & Patchwork by Mollie Makes, £9.99. Published by Pavilion, available at www.pavilion books.com

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HOME

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Hexagon

PICNIC BLANKET This bold, bright blanket uses large fabric hexagons that are machine-stitched together Project JANE HUGHES Photography RACHEL WHITING

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 14 55cm-square pieces cotton fabric in a variety of colours & patterns for patchwork panel •• 128x135cm soft fleece for backing •• 0.5m 112cm-wide cotton fabric for binding •• sticky notes •• freezer paper •• rotary cutter, ruler & mat •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk SIZE: 135x128cm NOTES: Prewash and press all fabric before use as necessary. This is important if you are using vintage fabric as it may have dyes that will run when washed Make the hexagon paper template When piecing the patchwork, pin and stitch together with right sides facing. All seams are 1cm unless otherwise stated

It is really important to sew accurately, as this is the key to making the points on the hexagons neat and flat

HOW TO MAKE: Using the hexagon template, neatly cut out 28 full hexagons from your chosen fabric. Referring to the patchwork-piecing diagram, you will see that the filler pieces fit into the gaps at the sides and along the top of the full hexagon pieces. You will need 18 filler pieces in all. Use the paper pattern and fold it to size to cut the filler pieces from your chosen fabric as required (use the patchwork piecing diagram on page 78 as a guide).

1

2

Lay out the full hexagons on the floor. Use the patchwork piecing diagram as a guide and start with the first full vertical row of hexagons – row 2, which has been shaded on the diagram. Once you have placed all 28 full hexagons, stand back and decide if you have a good balance of colours and patterns. Try to avoid putting similar colours or patterns next to each other. If you are happy with the layout, you can start to fill in the gaps around the edges with the 18 cut-to-fit hexagon pieces.

3

Once the layout is complete, check you are happy with it and take a photo to refer back to later if necessary. Using sticky notes, number each row 1 to 7, as in the patchwork piecing diagram. Working from the bottom of each row up, gather up the pieces in a pile and pin the numbered sticky note to the top piece.

4

Using a disappearing marker pen or a pencil, mark an X 1cm from the edges of each point to represent your start and stop

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“REDUCE THE SIZE OF THE HEXAGONS FOR A SMALLER BLANKET“

Sam

sewing points. Machine-stitch the pieces in each numbered pile together in order, making sure each seam stops exactly at the centre of the marked X and back-stitching to secure. When you have finished you will have seven rows. (See Pic A.)

5

Starting at the top, sew rows 1 and 2 together. Continue marking the X points before sewing if you wish. Make sure you fold over the hexagon above the one you are sewing to keep it flat and out of the way. Continue adding the rows using this method until you have completed the patchwork. Press the seams. (See Pic B.)

To keep your picnic dry, swap the fleece for waterproof oilcloth

6

Lay the fleece fabric right side down. Lay the patchwork piece on top right side facing up and pin all the way around the edges and in the centre to keep the layers in place. Machine-stitch together all the way around the edge with a 5mm seam. Trim any excess fleece to make sure the cut edges are neat and straight.

PATCHWORK PIECING DIAGRAM 1

2

3

4

5

6

7

7

For the binding, cut strips measuring 6cm wide from the backing fabric and join to make a continuous strip approximately 5.5m long. The blanket is bound with a continuous binding. This can be single or double-fold binding and should be stitched within 5mm of the edge of the quilt, with mitred corners.

A

B

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• Air Threaded Loopers

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• Produces beautiful sharp curves for necklines and sleeves

•Use 2, 3 or 4 threads to produce 7 different finishes including rolled hem

• Wide Throat Area gives excellent • Adjustable Differential Feed gives a professional finish even on stretchy visibility of the fabric whilst overlocking or knit fabrics

Find out more at www.jukiclub.com Courses, Craft Kits, Supplies

www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk "Here at the Leicestershire Craft Centre we aim to pass on our art and craft knowledge in a fun and inspiring way."

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WORTH

ÂŁ599

WIN A SINGER C440 LEGACY SEWING MACHINE We’ve teamed up with Singer to offer one lucky reader a fantastic machine loaded with great features and 200 built-in stitch patterns

T

he Singer Legacy C440 sewing machine is loaded with great features, including 200 stitch patterns, large LCD touch screen and adjustable stitch lengths, widths and density. The Legacy is easy to use and great for beginners who want to really get to grips with their sewing, and also experienced sewists who want to experiment with new projects, techniques and more. If you are into quilting and sewing homewares, then the extra-large sewing space on the machine arm makes this much easier and the drop feed feature allows you to lower feed teeth for freemotion sewing, perfect for adding a touch of on-trend embroidery to a tired pair of jeans, or to a blouse that needs a new lease of life.

EXCITING FEATURES INCLUDE 200 built-in stitches OneTouch (TM) stitch selection LCD touch screen One-step buttonhole with underplate Thread cutter button Speed control Programmable needle Twin needle sewing Accessories and much, much more! Since 1851 the name Singer has been synonymous with sewing, and the spirit of creative innovation that characterised the company at its inception continues today. Singer is dedicated to helping people express themselves through sewing, and Singer sewing machines reflect the commitment to quality, reliability and innovations!

Visit www.singerco.co.uk to find your local Singer stockist Head to www.ppjump.com/sewnow10 and enter your details for your chance to win this sewing machine and to enter all of our fab giveaways this issue Competition closes 3rd August 2017. Winners will by notified be email. Competition only open to UK residents.

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Bag tassel

TUTORIAL Alison’s faux leather tassel adds the perfect finishing touch to any handbag. Try using leather, wool, fabric scraps or feathers to suit your design and what’s in your stash Project ALISON HEATH

Alison used her faux leather tassel to embellish her Selena tote bag

Selena tote paper pattern $11.99 (approx £9.42), www.sallietomato.com

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TUTORIAL

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• piece of faux leather or fabric to match your bag (I used 12x7.5cm to fit the tassel cap snugly when rolled up) •• metal tassel cap •• awl or other sharp tool that will fit through the screw hole on the cap •• pen •• small screwdriver •• scissors •• wooden stick or awl •• fabric glue

HOW TO MAKE: Measure and cut the piece of faux leather or fabric to 12x7.5cm. You may want to make this longer depending on the size of the tassel you want to create.

1

2

On the wrong side of the faux leather or fabric, draw a line 1.5cm from the top edge. (See Pic A.)

3

Cut the fringe of the tassel up to but not past the 1.5cm line. The slits used here are approximately 1cm apart but you can cut them as thin or thick as you like ( just remember, the thinner they are, the less strong they are). (See Pic B.)

“DON'T USE TOO MUCH GLUE OTHERWISE IT WILL SEEP OUT WHEN YOU ROLL THE TASSEL UP”

4

To test that your tassel will fit into the tassel cap, roll it up tightly along the top and insert it into the tassel cap. (See Pic C.) If you have trouble getting it into the cap, unroll the tassel and trim the width a little bit.

5 6 7

Unroll the tassel and add glue all the way across the top. (See Pic D.)

Put some glue (again not too much) into the tassel cap itself.

After adding the glue, roll the tassel back up as tightly as you can and insert it into the tassel cap. I used a pointed wooden stick to ease it in until I felt it was secure. (See Pic E.)

8

Use an awl or similar sharp, pointed tool and poke it through the small screw hole in the side of the cap. Push it in as far as possible as this will help the screw go into your faux leather more easily. Screw it in place securely to finish.

9 Sam

A

Your tassel is now complete, hang it from your bag with pride because you made it!

WE USED

Tassel caps, including the chain and snap hook to attach to your bag, are available for £2.99 at www.bobbingirl.co.uk

B

C

D

E

Felt-backed plain faux leather fabric £3.10 per A4 sheet, www.creativecraftsupplies.co.uk

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What you’ve been

sewing... We love seeing what Sew Now projects, patterns and tutorials you’ve been working on and how you’re keeping your sewing machine busy this month

Linda Milliken shortened the belt on her Butterick 5889 dress issue 8 to achieve the perfect fit, and sewed the small size in a beautiful pink and red floral print.

After her mum asked for a handmade top, Simona Barlow whipped up a beautiful version of Butterick 5889 that came free with issue 8. A perfect top to wear in the sunshine!

Heather Kemp has sewn an adorable print baby jacket as featured in issue 6, and knows that some little chap will be delighted with his new train-themed threads come winter!

“I just made three Cocoon dresses (from issue 8), with another on the table. What a brilliant pattern! So easy and comfortable to wear.” 85 WWW.S E WNOW M AG .CO.U K June Cutchin SN10.P85.indd 85

GET IN TOUCH! We can’t get enough of Maria Hockley’s gorgeous, bold print version of McCall’s 7313 which came free with issue 4, with fabric purchased from www.fabric.com

Bethany

Email bethany.armitage@ practicalpublishing.co.uk Use #sewthelove or tag us on Instagram at sewnowmag Post to www.facebook. com/sewnowmag

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Patchwork | Quilting | Appliqué | Fabric

If you adore quilting and patchwork and love contemporary fabric, Quilt Now is your perfect companion. Each issue is filled with beautiful quilting projects from big bed quilts to must-have accessories, using the latest fabric and stash-friendly scraps Kitty cat quilt

Whirlwind mini quilt

ISSUE 38 ON SALE NOW!

Fab fabric boxe s!

www.quiltnow.co.uk

www.facebook.com/quiltnow

www.twitter.com/quiltnowmag

Try your hand at this sewing machine mat

www.pinterest.com/quiltnowmag

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/qn38

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G E T

T H E

L O O K

Fun

SAVE 20%

FABRIC

on your order with code SEWNOW20

The sewing possibilities are endless with this collection of fun cotton prints Whether you want to sew a cute dress, a fun top or a set of sweet pyjamas, these cotton prints are cute, easy to care for and a dream to sew with! All these fantastic prints can be found at www.adamrossfabrics.co.uk, and

we have a generous 20% off across the store for every Sew Now reader! AdaM Ross Fabrics is run by a team of selfproclaimed fabric geeks and, with hundreds of different fabric styles online, you’re sure to find the perfect fabric for your next project. So, why not make use of our exclusive discount and fill your stash?

Flamingo-go cotton poplin fabric £6.99 per metre

Little Birdy cotton poplin fabric £6.99 per metre

Strawberry cotton poplin fabric £6.99 per metre

Bicycle cotton poplin fabric £6.99 per metre

By the Sea cotton poplin fabric £6.99 per metre

Offer ends 17th August 2017

Baby Panda cotton poplin fabric £6.99 per metre

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SEWING

WORKSHOPS Brush up on the basics or learn something new at a workshop near you! SEW STITCH CREAT8 Sandbach, Cheshire Feel inspired by the rural location of this charming venue while you sew in a friendly workshop. Take time out and get creative by making something, whether it is a dress, cushion, laundry bag or tote bag. Classes are designed for all levels, from absolute beginner classes on pillowcases to more advanced classes tackling upcylicng garments and advanced sewing machine techniques. Contact Mandy to find out more and to book. www.sew-stitch-creat8.co.uk 07772 684907

Classes include - Dressmaking – make copies of your favourite garments, £40 per session - Getting to grips with zips and buttons – demystify fastenings for all projects £40 per session

- Machine beginners – learn how to set up, thread and use a sewing machine from scratch - Machine advanced – tackle an advanced dressmaking pattern with more machine techniques

COLOURS OF THE RAINBOW Carlisle, Cumbria A pretty, independent fabric shop stocking 100% cotton for quilting, dressmaking, crafting and curtain making. All designs are new to Carlisle and competitively priced! Find the shop on Facebook for more information. coloursoftherainbow2015@gmail.com 01228 597351

7TH JULY How to knit

22ND JULY Birthday celebrations

Learn something new this summer! Tackle casting on and off, four stitches and how to read a pattern and abbreviations. Materials provided. £25

Join us for our second birthday and enjoy discounts on fabric in store, coffee and cake in a fun open-house setting. Free

10TH JULY Make your own tote bag Ideal for beginners. Learn how to measure and cut the perfect bag for your needs, and how to insert a lining. Choose from any of our fabric for your design. £25

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TUESDAY & THURSDAY Crafternoons Held throughout the year from 12-2.30pm and you can work on your current projects with fellow crafters. Contact the shop for more information

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WORKSHOPS

ABAKHAN Liverpool and Mostyn Abakhan prides itself on offering value for money in fabric, yarn, crafts and more. Regular classes and workshops take place at Mostyn and Liverpool, and a new shop has opened in Altrincham! www.abakhan.co.uk 01745 562100

14TH JULY Make a scuba summer dress

Liverpool. Construct a simple but flattering full-skirt dress that is perfect for any occasion, from parties to afternoons spent shopping. £45

22ND JULY Hobby to professional part two

OH SEW CRAFTY Preston, Lancashire

Liverpool. Learn over 14 skills in one day and take your sewing knowledge to the next level! Ideal for participants who have already completed part one. £45

28TH JULY Introduction to overlocking Mostyn. This one-day intensive class unravels the mysteries of the overlocker! £42.50

30TH-31ST JULY Learn to fit and sew knits

Mostyn. Your tutor will guide you through the process of choosing a pattern, finding suitable material, and dealing with the particular challenges of this particular fabric. £90

This stitching and craft emporium has supplies for many crafts and provides advice, friendly service and activity sessions. Workshops are popular and well attended, and always feature coffee and cake. www.itsohsewcrafty.com 01772 780883

10TH AUGUST Get to know your sewing machine

WEEKLY Dressmaking sessions

Suitable for people with new machines and no experience as well as people who have changed their machines but may not be confident using the new technology. £16

Regular weekly dressmaking sessions that suit all abilities. A qualified tailor will help develop stitching and finishing skills to ensure the best results. These are on a rolling programme so can be accessed at any time. Call in store to find out more. From £20

17TH AUGUST Everything zips

MONTHLY Junior stitchers

This session covers the replacement and maintenance of all kinds of zips. We unravel the mystery of invisible zips and use helpful tips for jeans zip replacement. £16

This monthly session happens on the third Saturday of the month. They are relaxed skill-building sessions designed for young people over the age of eight. Call in store to find out more. £5.50

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INSPIRATION

Press to

impress Pressing your garment ensures a neat construction and a professional finish, but did you realise that there are loads of tools out there to help you? Here are some of our favourites PRESS AND PROTECT

Steam-press your garment and achieve a professional finish, while protecting your garment from the heat of the iron by using a multipurpose pressing cloth. Available for £3.14 for 27x90cm sheet from www. sewessential.co.uk

THE TAILOR’S ASSISTANT

Made from hard, eco-friendly tulip wood, this traditional seam presser and clapper can be used to flatten bulky facings, collars, edges, pleats, hems and buttonholes. You can also create a sharp edge by pressing after steam ironing. Available for £35 from www.merchantandmills.com

TOP TOOLS

Clover has a whole section of Press Perfect tools from quilter Joan Hawley, including these two nifty additions to your sewing table. The Roll & Press enables quick pressing of seams and folds, even around curved corners, while the Iron Finger is a heatresistant tool, which can be used with or without an iron and takes the place of your finger as you press. Both available for $14.48 (£11.37) each at www.fatquartershop.com

LEND A HAM

ROLL UP!

Padded firmly and filled with sawdust, the Prym sleeve-pressing roll is designed to press those awkwardto-reach parts of a garment such as sleeves and trouser legs. Covered with strong twill cotton and durable wool/acrylic mix, this would definitely come in handy for garment sewists fed up of trying to press difficult-toreach seams. £9.60 from www.weaverdee.com

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Dressmaking hams make achieving contours and shaping that much easier. Ham bundles are available in all sorts of pretty prints and fabric from Clothbound, the home of pressing tools. Find out more at www.clothbound.co.uk

Make your own ham using our tutorial and template at www.sewnow mag.co.uk

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FEATURE

BASIC STITCHES Whether you’re an established sewist or just starting out, here’s a handy guide to the basics LENGTH AND WIDTH

Stitch length controls the speed of the feed dog and is measured in millimetres from 0 to 4 (sometimes up to 6 for high-end machines). Higher numbers mean the feed dog moves faster in relation to the needle and the stitches are longer. Stitch width controls how far away from the centre the needle can swing. A straight stitch obviously has a width of 0mm, while a zigzag stitch can be as narrow as 1mm or as wide as 4mm.

Standard buttonhole

zig and zag is made of three straight stitches. It is used to attach elastic and stitch on knit fabric. Since the stitches are smaller than a standard zigzag, this means there is less chance of snagging and the stitch has lots of stretch.

STRETCH STRAIGHT

This is a straight stitch with one stitch forwards, one back and one forwards and is strong due to the repeated stitching. It’s often used for high-stress seams such as crotch seams, but can also be used for knits as it has built-in stretch because the feed dog stretches the fabric slightly.

OVERCASTING

Knit buttonhole

The overcast stitch resembles an overlocker or serger stitch and uses both zigzag and straight stitches. It is used to finish the raw edges of fabric to prevent fraying.

Keyhole buttonhole

Note that mechanical machines can only do regular buttonholes Left: straight stitch, right: zigzag stitch

STRAIGHT STITCH

You will use this for 99% of your sewing. It is the basic construction stitch to connect one fabric to another. Use a 2.5mm length for basic sewing, 4mm or longer for tacking, 3mm for topstitching and 1.5-2mm for stress points such as corners and purse straps. Straight stitches do not stretch so do not use them for stretch knits.

ZIGZAG STITCH

a four-step buttonhole, while computerised machines can sew an automatic or one-step buttonhole. Regular buttonholes are standard and can be used on all types of fabric and for all types of buttons. Keyhole buttonholes have a rounded end that opens wider for ball-type buttons. Knit buttonholes have a more defined zigzag stitch to allow for more stretch.

TRICOT/ELASTIC STITCH

This stitch is also called the multi-stitch zigzag and is a zigzag stitch where each

The zigzag can be used as a decorative topstitch, to finish seam allowances to prevent fabric edges from fraying, to sew on appliqué, stitch monograms and for sewing stretch knits. Use a 2.5mm length and 3.5mm width for basic sewing, 0.5mm length and 4-5mm width for satin-stitching appliqué and embroidery, and a 2.5mm length and 0.5mm width for stretch sewing.

BLIND HEM

The blind hem has several tiny zigzags and then one large zigzag. It is used for hemming and is practically invisible from the right side. Use your manual instructions to lay up fabric correctly.

Taken from Stress-Free Sewing by Nicole Vasbinder, published by Search Press, RRP £12.99

BUTTONHOLE STITCH

A buttonhole is a box made of tiny zigzag stitches. You can stitch a buttonhole using the zigzag stitch, but it is easier to have a buttonhole stitch. Mechanical machines have

Left: overcasting stitch, right: blind hem stitch

Left: tricot/elastic stitch, right: stretch straight stitch

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SEW NG SHO THE THE SEWING SHOP Bristol BRISTOL

BATH

• Sewing classes • Sewing Machines • Large range of Fabrics • Machine Sales • Machine Service • Machine Repairs

Classes for all abilities including: • Pattern cutting • Bra or corset making • Dressmaking • Private tuition also available

01225 482413 27 Charles Street, Bath, BA1 1HU http://husqvarnastudiobath.co.uk/ m.pickles1@btintetrnet.com https://www.facebook.com/ sewingstudiobath/

Take a look at my website for my wide range of subjects

www.seweasybristol.com 07946176982 info@seweasybristol.com

DUMFRIES

Darlington HAMPSHIRE

Romy's Sewing Rooms

Reads of Craft Winchester Cake and Supplies

For all your haberdashery needs. Sewing classes for all ages and abilities. 180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ 01387250867

romyssewingrooms@gmail.com

www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms

Buckinghamshire CHEAM

16 Upper Mulgrave Road, Cheam, SM2 7AZ info@stitcheshaberdashery.co.uk Tel: 0208 661 6040

Fabrics & Haberdashery Workshops & Parties

Cli

Sewing Workshops based in Sandbach, 16 UpperClasses Mulgrave Road, Cheshire available:

Cheam, SM2 7AZ ‘Beginners and advanced level info@sti tcheshaberdashery.co.uk Dressmaking Classes Tel: 0208 661 6040 Make a Tote bag

Get creative making a cushion Fabrics &and Haberdashery Flexible dates times to suit you’ Workshops & Partiores Contact Mandy on 07772684907 email: info@sew-stitch-creat8.co.uk

Stockists of Kaufman, Dashwood, Windham, Sevenberry, & more...

Stockists of Kaufman, Dashwood, www.sew-stitch-creat8.co.uk Windham, Sevenberry, more.. 2 May Cottages, Sandbach, Cheshire&CW11 4SD .

Derby HAMPSHIRE

Devon LEICESTERSHIRE

Dum

Romy's Se

The Hobby House at Callender

We are Darlington's one-stop craft shop, selling Suppliers largest of sewing machines. cake decorating supplies, fabric, wool, needle-felting Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar supplies and lots more! Both new and reconditioned. We are open Tuesday, Wednesday & Friday 10am-4pm, Thursday 9.30am-7pm andon Saturday 10am-2pm. Many machines display

21 Whessoe Road, Darlington, DL1 4LE demonstrations available. 01325 381463 www.callendercakes.co.uk Sales service repair www.facebook.com/callendercakeandcraft haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950 1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

SEW BUSY Sewing Workshops Sewing Parties and Stockists ofTeas MichaelSewing Miller, Riley Makower, Stof, Afternoon Sewing Machine ClubBlake, Tilda, Robert Buttons, Servicing andKaufmann, Repairs Dashwood Buy andand sellothers. second hand haberdashery,Children’s patterns, unique giftsWorkshops and craft workshops. Sewing 1 to 1 machines Lessons Customised and Items Branksomewood Road, Fleet,Gifts Hampshire GU51 4JS See my for more Tel: website 01252 444220 www.sewnjo.com Phone: 07760 330843

www.sew-busy.co.uk

Markeaton Park Craft Village, Derby, DE22 3BG

Essex REDDITCH

NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

CRESSWELL SEWING MACHINE CO.

Cheam CHESHIRE

Essex SCOTLAND

Open 9am til 4pm Tuesday til Saturday for s e w i n g w o r k s h o p s ,

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fDevonshire a b r i c s &Way, h aHeathpark b e r d a sIndustrial hery 116 Castle Street, EX14 Hinckley, Estate, Honiton, 1YF Leicester shire , LE10 1DD 0 1 4 5 5 6 9 8 0 3Tel: 4 01404 w w w. t h549 e s e w871 ingcafe .co.uk

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Hampshire TEWKESBURY

Ham

Reads of Winchester

INKBERROW DESIGN CENTRE • City & Guilds Fashion College • Beginners Dress Making Classes • Pattern Cutting Classes Based in• Leigh-on-Sea, Essex, Tailoring Classes we are a friendly, well-stocked craft • Corsetry Classes • Theatre Costume shop, stocking a wide range of craft • Workshops specialising in the products supplies. Golden Ruleand Lutterloh System • Creative Sewing Workshops The Old tel:Needleworks, 01702 512Britten 289 Street, Redditch Worcs, B97 6HD

Textile Craft Shop, Patchwork Emboidery Felting and Haberdashery Workshop Visit and us Classes - all ages. at...

For all your ha Sewing clas and

Suppliers of sewing machines. Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.

Sewing machine sales, service, and parts. Repair service offered for most machines. Open 9.30am-4pm Monday to Friday. 10am-Saturday. 0115 926 7572 83 Mansfield Road, Daybrook, Nottingham, NG5 6BH

contact@ info@inkberrowdesigncentre.co.uk thesewingboxessex.co.uk 01527 69100

Unit 12 Blake House Craft Centre, Blake End, Rayne, Essex, CM77 6SH 01376 346 532 www.andsewonfabrics.com info@andsewonfabrics.com

WEST SUSSEX

YORKSHIRE

Kent

Leicestershire

And Sew On Fabrics Fabrics, Haberdashery, Pre-Cuts, Books, Patterns, Panels Tuesday - Saturday 10-5 Sunday 10.30-4

ONLINE

Many machines on display demonstrations available.

SEW

Stockists of Michael Mill Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, haberdashery, patterns, u

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950 1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

Branksomewood Road,

Tel: 01

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Merseyside

New

Open Monday-Saturday 10.00 - 4.00

7 High Street, Storrington, West Sussex, RH20 4DR

Sew Something has a wide range of patchwork and dressmaking fabrics, wool, and everything you need for you haberdashery needs. We also offer courses.

www.sew-something.co.uk 01903 746 204

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Makower, Lewis & Irene, Fabric Sheff ield'sNutex, newest independent Freedom, Timeless sewing store. We stock a wide range Treasures, Springs Creative, Disney, John of fabrics, including Louden andMichael more! Miller, Blake and Tula Pink Framing. P and QRiley Notions, Embroidery & Picture SmallWe friendly workshops, alsoclasses, offer classes inindividual a tuition arranged to ssuit. variety of craft

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Visit us at... Designs Molly Felicity

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Stockist of Brother, Janome & Toyota FULL SERVICE NOW £40 WAY YO U R £60) (NORMAL U R ST Y L E ,PRICE S E W I N G YO We have a range of haberdashery, yarns, patterns and spare parts available in store. We specialise in repair and service of machines, with free local pick-up and delivery. 185 Hoylake Road, Moreton, Wirral, Merseyside CH46 9QA Tel: 0151 677 7755

To advertise in Sew Now call Noune on 0161 474 6997

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ACCESSORIES

Festival fun... Get festival ready this summer with our pick of the must-have accessories IF THE SHOE FITS

Lemon beaded hoop earrings £9, www.accessorize.com

Tassel sandals £19.99, www.deichmann.com

Emma Bridgewater Starry Skies wellies £37.99, www.argos.co.uk

TASSELS ARE FOREVER

Fabric and wood bead necklace £35, www.east.co.uk

Set of eight bracelets £9.99, www.bonprix.co.uk

Festival pompom trilby £18, www.accessorize.com

THE FINAL TOUCH

Crochet flip-flops £8, www.tesco.com/clothing

Gold double frame sunglasses £8.99, www.newlook.com

Gold trim beaded duffle bag £35, www.missselfridge.com

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ACCESSORIES

Festival fun... Get festival ready this summer with our pick of the must-have accessories IF THE SHOE FITS

Lemon beaded hoop earrings £9, www.accessorize.com

Tassel sandals £19.99, www.deichmann.com

Emma Bridgewater Starry Skies wellies £37.99, www.argos.co.uk

TASSELS ARE FOREVER

Fabric and wood bead necklace £35, www.east.co.uk

Set of eight bracelets £9.99, www.bonprix.co.uk

Festival pompom trilby £18, www.accessorize.com

THE FINAL TOUCH

Crochet flip-flops £8, www.tesco.com/clothing

Gold double frame sunglasses £8.99, www.newlook.com

Gold trim beaded duffle bag £35, www.missselfridge.com

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Master your

MACHINE Each machine model offers a range of features and functions, but all have the fundamental elements in common. Use this handy guide and you’ll know your way around yours in no time 1

9 THREAD GUIDES Two threads make up each stitch – the top thread and the bobbin thread. The top thread from the spool of cotton passes through the thread guide, which regulates the tension of the thread before it’s fed through the needle.

1

SPEED CONTROLLER A slider that sets the speed the machine will work at when the pedal is pressed, allowing control and precision when sewing.

19

2

REVERSE FUNCTION Use this to set the machine working in a reverse direction, to move backwards across a stitched line. This function is used when securing the threads at the start and end of a line of stitching.

3

3

NEEDLE AND NEEDLE CLAMP The needle is removable to allow you to select from a variety of types and sizes to suit your project. The needle is held in place by the clamp. Most machines include a tool for tightening and loosening the clamp to access the needle.

4

18

PRESSER FOOT LIFTER For lifting and lowering to hold the fabric in place while you sew. Release it to remove the fabric from the machine.

5

4 5

BOBBIN CASE Inside the removable cover is the bobbin case, which houses the bobbin. The bobbin is wound with thread and provides the second thread for each stitch.

16

6

7

8

6

FEED DOGS These moving parts lie underneath the needle plate. With spiked teeth that protrude from the opening, these help to move the fabric through the machine.

7

NEEDLE PLATE The metal plate directly below the needle and presser foot. The small opening allows the thread from the bobbin to pass through while the needle enters to make the stitches. On the plate are guide markings to assist straight sewing and measuring seam allowances.

8

PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE DIAL Used for releasing/increasing the weight of the foot on the fabric, for example when working appliqué. You can release the pressure to enable you to turn the fabric smoothly.

9 94

17

“IF YOU'RE STRUGGLING WITH THE THREADING ON A NEW MACHINE, PRACTISE WITH RED THREAD UNTIL YOU GET THE HANG OF IT”

Jeanette

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TUTORIAL BOBBIN WINDER Winds thread from the cotton spool onto the bobbin, ensuring that the thread is fed evenly onto the bobbin and maintains the correct tension.

10

Trouble with tension?

Check that both the machine and bobbin are correctly threaded. If these aren't exactly right, this can cause incorrect tension. Also check that the thread on the bobbin is wound correctly. If it's too tight or too loose, it won't feed through the machine and make even stitches. Another good tip is to use the same thread in the machine and the bobbin – even slightly different threads can unbalance the tension

SPOOL HOLDER This pin runs through the centre of a spool of thread, allowing it to feed smoothly through the machine.

11

SCREEN Displays the relevant information regarding the stitch style, width and length that has been selected.

12

10

11

HAND WHEEL Manually operates the mechanics of the machine, moving the needle up and down and engaging the feed dogs. Newer, computerised machines also have a needle up/down button which can be programmed to stay in the down position – ideal for pivoting on corners.

13

12

2

13

15

STITCH SELECTOR Allows you to select from the different stitches on the machine and includes a menu from which you make your selection. The stitch is selected by pressing the relevant button and the number will appear on the screen

14

STITCH LENGTH AND STITCH WIDTH SELECTORS Use to increase or decrease the length or width of your stitch. The shorter the stitch, the more stitches are worked across the line of sewing, making it stronger. The width applies to stitches where the needle moves from left to right, such as a zigzag stitch. Adjusting the width button will also move the needle position, which is important when sewing in zips and piping etc.

15 14

FREE ARM This is a narrower working space created when the accessory box is removed. This is perfect for sewing smaller items or inserting sleeves.

16

ACCESSORY DRAWER Use to store alternative presser feet, spare bobbins and maintenance tools.

17

START/STOP BUTTON This allows you to operate the machine without the foot pedal.

18

THREAD CUT BUTTON This will cut the threads after sewing and is highlighted in the screen with the thread cutter mark.

19

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IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF

SEE PAGE 60 FOR DETAILS OF HOW TO SUBSCRIBE

ONLY Packed with great makes and skills £5.99

FREE

5in-1 shell top pattern

Four cup size options

IN SIZES 6-22

5 SLE EVE OPTI O N S

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Kids’ sleepover bag

Retro tent tidy

Stylish summer trousers

Darling daschund wrist rest

ISSUE 11 ON SALE 27th JULY All contents subject to change

EDITORIAL Editor Sam Sterken Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Jenny Riley Art Editors Craig Chubb, Simon Kay , Sher Ree Tai Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Contributors Lizzie Anderson, Jeanette Archer, Juliet Bawden, Carissa Browning, Michelle Chan, Julia Claridge, The Fold Line, Claire Garside, Debbie von Grabler-Crozier, Alison Heath, Fiona Hesford, Jane Hughes, Jamie Kemp, Angeline Murphy, Stephanie Roper, Amanda Russell, Alison Smith, Jenniffer Taylor ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practicalpublishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul PUBLISHING Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Assistant Anna Olejarz Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Managing Art Editor Jennifer Lamb Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Ecommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscription enquiries 01858 438899 Email: practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk DISTRIBUTION Craft Store Distribution amanda.paul@practicalpublishing.co.uk NEWSTRADE COMAG Magazine Distribution CONTACT Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961 Sew Now (ISSN: 2398-9610) is published by Practical Publishing Int Ltd. All material Š Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The style and mark of Sew Now is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced without the express consent of Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity. DISCLAIMER The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher. Every care is taken to ensure that the contents of the magazine are accurate, but the publisher accepts no responsibility for errors. While reasonable care has been taken when accepting advertisements, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any resulting unsatisfactory transactions, but will investigate any written complaints.

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BACK-PAGE BLOGGER

5 minutes with...

The Coco dress from Tilly and the Buttons is Louise’s go-to pattern

Louise Petty

Louise, writer of the popular blog Sew Sensational, chatted with us about her style and what appealed to her about sewing from such a young age Hi there! How are you today and what’s on your sewing table? I’m very well thank you! On my sewing table at the moment are a silk camisole top, a chambray pinafore dress and my cat Barnaby, who loves to sew alongside me.

reliable and easy to follow, but I love the range of indie patterns we have to choose from now. In particular I love Tilly and the Buttons, Sew Over It www.sewoverit.co.uk and Merchant & Mills www.merchantandmills.com.

How would you describe your style? Breton, blue and comfortable! I like my clothes to be comfy, practical and classic.

Looking ahead to autumn, what is your choice of autumn/winter fabric? Thick, cosy jersey or ponte fabric is easily my go-to for warm autumn and winter makes.

Why did you start sewing? As a child I was always stitching, cutting What’s your favourite ready-to-wear brand? or sticking, and not much has changed. I tend to buy clothes at high street shops After a foray into homeware, I started like H&M and Gap – places that carry dressmaking in 2010 and my enthusiasm timeless styles (and stripes!) that won’t break has grown! My grandma has been a the bank. If I want something a little fancier, hobby seamstress her then it’s handmade whole life and it’s lovely whenever possible! ”AFTER A FORAY INTO to think I’m carrying on the tradition. HOMEWARE, I STARTED What’s your favourite DRESSMAKING IN 2010 colour to wear? What’s on your Definitely shades of blue! AND MY ENTHUSIASM Almost everything I own to-sew list? HAS GROWN!” A patterned denim is navy, blue, blue and shirtdress, a Liberty-print white, or denim. blouse and a new baby quilt – I always have lots of projects on the go. If you could give a piece of advice to a newbie sewist, what would it be? Are there any skills and technique that Don’t be afraid to make what you want and you’re looking to master? try something new, even if the pattern says Every time I sew I learn something. I ‘intermediate’ or ‘advanced’. Don’t be put off embrace a try-it-and-see attitude and, even by patterns claiming to be too difficult for if it goes wrong, the experience teaches your level; you won’t know unless you try. me something. My current focus is learning how to refine my skills. Could we peep at your sewing space? My sewing space is actually my dining What’s your go-to pattern? room table! It’s big and spacious and I I’ve made many Tilly and the Buttons Coco can get round it easily – perfect for dresses www.tillyandthebuttons.com. It’s cutting out patterns. an easy pattern, perfect for beginners. Where can we find out more about you? Are you a big pattern house girl, an indie Head to my blog at www.sewsensational. girl or a mix of both? wordpress.com or find me on Twitter Definitely a mix of both! I’m very loyal to @sew_sensational and Instagram classic Simplicity patterns as I find them louise481516. I’d love you to say hello!

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The dining room table makes a great sewing space

Louise loves to wear denim

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For more information on local stockists contact 01793 834304 or take a look at our website, also our latest brochure and price list can be downloaded now from;

www.hornfurniture.co.uk As any hobbyist will tell you the most important things you’ll need when sitting for long periods is comfort, good support and most importantly a correct sitting posture. The Horn HOBBY CHAIR offers all these and more, it features a 3 lever mechanism, this gives precise adjustment of your seating position by allowing you not only to change the height of the chair but the rake, seat tilt and back height positions...just like a luxury car seat. The Horn HOBBY CHAIR also offers a sculptured, deep, luxuriously padded seat and back with an approved contoured lumbar support to fit perfectly into your body. It can be quickly raised or lowered to your desired position by means of a gas elevator and is fitted with a smaller castor base to allow you to fit easily into your sewing cabinet. To finish off the perfect chair you have three hard wearing fabrics to choose from and now our special ‘Limited Edition’ fun sewing canvas fabric as well! It’s the perfect chair to finish off your perfect sewing room!

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Possibly the best scissors you’ll ever get to use! Ask us about our new range of precision made German scissors….. a perfect companion for your new cabinet. SN10.P99.indd 99 LS41.P99.indd 99

£225 + P&P The perfect chair to finish of your perfect sewing room!

Horn Crafting… Quilting… Sewing Furniture

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