FRENCH Sept 2012
Fashion Illustrations from the House of Jaques Heim
Fashion Illustrations from the House of Jaques Heim
Published by Melbourne Fine Art Pty Ltd Melbourne, September 2012 ISBN: 978-1-875311-32-3 Bryan Collie Director Mara Sison & Peter Jago Curators Address: Level 1, 278 Collins St. Melbourne 3000 Phone: +61396633304 Website: www.melbournefineart.com.au Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Design: Gema Yugi | email@example.com Copyright@2012 Melbourne Fine Art Gallery all rights reserved. No part of this catalogue may be reproduced in any form or means without any permission from the publisher.
Content : Great Coats and Fur Trimmings ................................
Evening Dresses and Ball Gowns .............................. 33 Spring and Summer Collections ............................... 55 Jackets, Peplum, and Suitings ................................... 67
Melbourne Fine Art is proud to once again present a collection of gouache watercolour fashion illustrations that exemplify the luxe and glamour of Parisian haute couture in Post-World War II. These renderings represent the revival of haute couture that had been interrupted by war worldwide. The rich textiles and fabrications of silk, satin, velvet, wool and fur, and the intricacy of cornelli and appliqué were reintroduced by couturiers to the fashionable world in the final stages of war. This collection exudes Parisian glamour and Jacques Heim’s extraordinary ingenuity in depicting women’s high fashion of its time. Despite the obvious sleek femininity of Heim’s creations, the military influence remained in his garments in the precise forms of jet vented collars, double buttoned cuffs and satchel pockets. Heim brought a sensual masculinity and an extreme femininity into his designs and their illustration. Heim’s ability as a furrier is truly captured in these designs as he not only used fur as a trim to highlight his garments, but also as the major accessory in his creations. Along with his remarkable fur collars and hand held muffs, he utilised fur construction in generous elegant sleeves, remarkable skirting and exceptional full-length coats. He was a true couturier who was not bound by limitation in creating exceptional design and perfection in his ensembles. Heim’s attention to detail in every design was accentuated by signature accessories. Enamel jewellery, skilfully designed hats and form-fitting gloves were used consistently throughout the collections – an indication that the same milliners, jewellers and glove makers were working with the label. The illustrator captures each graduated movement and silhouette in his strokes and washes to demonstrate the couturier’s expertise. The ancillary sketches on a number of the illustrations enable us to truly visualise the designer’s creative detail. This timeless collection of inspirational high fashion illustrations is an exceptional example of illustrators’ skill in illuminating the vision of haute couture.
Mara Sison & Peter Jago Curators
â€œWe do not expect the couturier to show us new dresses each season, but a conception of woman as well, for whom the dresses have been designed.â€? Jacques Heim (taken from Couture: The Great Designers, 1985)
Jacques Heim (1899 – 1967) Heim was a Parisian fashion designer who specialised in women’s furs and coats. He was born to Isadore and Jeanne Heim who began their fur business in 1898. When Jacques joined the family venture, he initiated a couture line of coats, evening dresses, and suits that became a trend amongst other designers. Fashion that brought forward a woman’s hour glass silhouette that was once hidden by loose fitting Art Deco fashion. Fur was truly prominent in his designs – from the smallest detail of fur collars to beautiful full fur coats. Heim took over his parents’ business in 1930 and expanded. His efforts proved to be a success as his maison de couture grew and eventually springing branches in Biarritz and Cannes. In 1937, he created a line for younger women in which was appropriately called Jacques Heim Jeunes Filles. The collection included long dinner dresses, day dresses, and dancing dresses that were polished with softer fabrics and colours. Heim was also an active member of the French film industry between the late 1940s to the 1960s, contributing as a costume designer to numerous films -including the award winning film, Sundays and Cybele (Les dimanches de Ville d’Avray) in 1962. In addition to his already many achievements, Heim is more popularly known as a great innovator, introducing the “smallest bathing suit” into the fashion market which eventually led to the bikini. Between 1958 and 1962, Heim became the official dressmaker of Mme. Charles de Gaulle and was also at the time the president of Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Heim left his maison couture to his son Philippe Jacques when he passed in 1967. Jacques Heim was not afraid of introducing new fabrics and styles into his design. He was a designer who truly understood the silhouette of a woman, and designed clothing of timeless elegance and appeal.
Great Coats and Fur Trimmings
An â€œensemble voyagerâ€?. A duffle coat, possibly of camel wool, with enormous padded shoulders. An epaulette shoulder line continues the full length of the sleeve with a single buttoned tailored cuff. A double structured muffler collar in sandstone has a pair of buttons and a chocolate brown underlay with two button holes revealed. Two brace style pockets sit upon the bust line. Three brass buttons open the front placket with two brace style pockets inserted on either hip. The undergarment is possibly in a soft crepe or angora wool. The model wears her hair in a 40s hairnet snood style.
Travel coat in a canary yellow with a double bertha collar and large kimono sleeves. The giant collar has double stitched inserts which give high definition to the top collar and may have allowed the collar to act as a hood. Eight buttons continue symmetrically down the overlapping placket with two small pouch pockets on either side. On each side, below the armature, inserted stitched lines give both definition and a purpose for large angled secret pockets. Beneath the coat, the model wears a high black knit top and a 他 length skirt. She wears one black (suede) glove inserted deep inside the right pocket vent. Hair upswept in a French roll. Jacques Heim solitary earring.
Swing back, broad shouldered red travel coat with an all-in-one sleeve. There are two rows of double stitching that arch below the neck from the bodice line to the back which fall in a horse shoe shape across the whole design. The full length is simply trimmed in black fox or sable cuffs. The muffler line of the coatâ€™s collar is in the same fur. The model wears a draped turban in fur felt which perches in an asymmetric style on her head. She wears a pair of matching (black suede) gloves and Jacques Heim signature earrings.
Pastel lemon 他 length coat with both the choice of colour and the style of the dramatic wide cuffed sleeve with divided panels across the whole coat reflecting the Chinese inspiration. A silver fox fur muffler is worn scarf-style descending down the front line of the coat. The model wears a toy beret of matching fur and has a fresh white kid glove exposed. There is also indication of drop earrings floating above the muffler.
Huge woollen great coat in tonal yellows. This travel coat is equipped with a gray and pale blue tartan interior possibly reversible. The tartan pattern sits on the shawl collar close to the neck and asymmetrical to the waist. Two inserted seams follow the collar line from left to right. The dolman style sleeves are cut all in one, and there are two sets of pockets - all tartan. One set sits at the upper bust, and two larger satchelstyle pockets sit deep across the hips. The model wears doeskin gray gloves to match the plaid. The draped tartan hat in 40s Parisian style flourishes across the modelâ€™s head ending with a double-tailed floating bow at the nape of the neck. One solitary Jacques Heim earring appears.
A broad shouldered, V-line vivacious great coat in dove grey wool or vicuna. Cornelli relief embroidery in arabesque style features at the front of both sides of the coat. A pair of simple pouch pockets are angled upon the hip line. The garment has voluminous full-length tubular sleeves with rolled-back double stitched cuffs. The model wears a matching pair of dove grey suede gloves. Her hair is up swept showing a signature Jacques Heim earring.
A dramatic Reddingcote features a high-rolled 18th century style Regency collar which is edged in double-stitching. Three buttons appear below the muffler line of the collar. The sleeve is all-in-one across the shoulder and the applied mastery of skill in the tailoring ends with a unique hour glass sleeve cuff. A voluminous swag back cloak drapes from the back and swings to the floor. In the front line, below the elbow, a solitary panelled pocket is revealed. The model wears a tiny twisted toque with her hair upswept. Accessorised with black suede gloves and a cloud of gray face veiling.
A revealed back view in full measurement of a scarlet tailored wool 他 length swing coat. It features a rolled soft collar, and is square-lined from the collar to the shoulder. Its sleeve is a simple large dolman cuff. The coat has 6 knife-pleated panels which swing to one side. The sixth pleat falls from the double stitching in an asymmetric line across the shoulders. Accessorised with the back of the tiny toy beret and the model wears Jacques Heim solitary earring.
Mahogany brown great coat. This is the plainest of Jacques Heimâ€™s designs herein. It is a utilitarian guideline for possibly mass production under licence for the U.S.A. It has a jet vented double stitched collar. Huge sleeve cuffs fold back with a pair of large inserted travelling pockets on the garmentâ€™s hip line. The model wears a froth of face veiling in gray under an asymmetrical toy pixie cap, and a signature Jacques Heim choker.
A back view of a lemon yellow coat with a giant sailor collar and voluminous rounded sleeves. The zigzag inserts outline the back panel and connects to a pair of arcade-shaped pocket flaps on either side which appear angled, with the middle double top-stitched arrow-head vent centre back. The model wears a simple yellow visor toque and Jacques Heim earrings.
Glamorous dolman sleeved evening coat. As a textile it is a full-length black mink ensemble. A twisted rope fur collar sits simply at the throat high above the neckline. The fur rope twist follows down the entire front left side of the garment. Enormous structured shoulder lines allow the inserts of the dramatic dolman sleeve to move freely. There is indication of a black suede glove. Hair is upswept with Jacques Heim signature earrings.
Dramatic opera cloak style coat in possibly slipper satin. Featuring a striking double stand out triangular cut collar. Double seams flair the collar down from the centre front. An impressive double kimono sleeve with three-dimensional relief embroidery in bronze is reflective of Gothic/Byzantine ornament. Modelâ€™s hair is upswept and she wears simple Jacques Heim earrings.
Fur coat ensemble in walnut brown. The use of chinchilla fur is not only a trim but becomes a total accessory. A huge shawl vented collar reminiscent of the 1900s, sits asymmetrically across a walnut brown peplum jacket. Six covered buttons fall from the bust down to the waist and two fall below the waist. On the hip girdle, two double pocket flaps form satchels in swagged chinchilla, which have vents that allow full movement of the torso. A sheath skirt completes this sensational outfit. The sleeves are full-length with the cuff vented to match collar and pockets. A small toy beret of chinchilla sits on the modelâ€™s head with a simple pendant drop Jacques Heim earring.
Très elegant fur ensemble in chestnut brown and chinchilla fur. The collar has a chestnut brown bow tie, below is a collar and a placket of chinchilla that falls between the bust line and stays inserted beneath a hip girdle of chinchilla. There is a floating pair of wave-like peplums in chestnut brown that scallop left and right upon the hip basque. Sitting above a side pleat the front panel of the ¾ length skirt is encircled by a pair of powder puff panels that pad the hip. Features a full muff on the model’s right hand. The model wears her hair up in a small fur toque of chinchilla with a cloud of fine flocked face veiling.
View from the back of a black travel coat ensemble with brown mink detail. The muffler that hides the model’s face forms a ‘V’ from the top of the sleeve to the middle of her back bone. It is top-stitched then picked out. The dolman sleeve has a curved split in the mid-line with a fully inserted mink cuff. The model wears a draped toque design hat that sits low on her forehead with a rhinestone at the front. Simple Jacques Heim signature earrings. Artist’s sketch of the front view reveals pockets and neckline centre front.
Fur coat cornelli ensemble in nut brown. A high upturned collar trimmed with astrakhan or Persian lamb that moves asymmetrically along the garment. It goes down the hip vent then over the bell-shaped peplum. Detailed embroidery of arabesques features on the bodice. The jacket has full length gauntlet sleeves, and the model holds a muff of matching astrakhan. She wears a brown felt halo cap with the brim upswept. Sketch of garment front is possibly the Premier or Master tailorâ€™s sketch.
An arresting bell-shaped coatdress coat in charcoal grey. A double buttoned wing collared jet line on her shoulder yoke projects out from her shoulder. Six covered buttons descend from the high folded neckline to the nipped waist. Satchel-like inserted pockets are fashioned in relief on either side of the hip line. The tapered sleeves are full length. Model wears a white beret perched on upswept hair and she wears a single Jacques Heim earring.
A flamboyant shawl caped great coat. Demonstrates the dramatics of the vents and plaid. The bishop sleeve comes into a small toy cuff with a self-covered button. The neckline has fluted jet vents that lie in three panels. The coat is open except at the neck where it is closed with a button and bow finish. Underneath the coat is a red blouse matching the coatâ€™s lining. Two buttons dominate the upper bustier, below is a corolla shape that fits to the tightly nipped waist. Two large pockets sit on either side of the hip girdle. The Âž length sheath skirt is in plaid, and surrounded by the pleating in the great coat with two enormous satchel pockets. Her hair is upswept in a chignon, and there is an indication of a scarf. Jacques Heim earrings.
Back view of a pastel lemon dress coat in duchess satin. Sketch shows a v-shaped tailored collar that descends into the front. Laurel leaf embroidery is placed across the bust down to the nipped waist. Four major drapes across the front. The back is vented with cornelli embroidery coming from the sides of the bodice down to the hip bask of the skirt in bows. The modelâ€™s hair is in a French roll under a matador style black hat, and she wears Jacques Heim earrings.
Military-inspired coat dress in gun metal grey. Sleeves are enormous with double gauntlet cuffs with double buttons. Two military jet vents complete the ensemble of the collar that fill the entire bust line. The shoulders have an under capping of a small bolero insert under the bust. Four buttons complete this revelation. A multi-stitched belt sits perched on the tiny nipped waist. Five panel fronted skirt with double pockets on hip: one a small insert, the other a large satchel. There is a small piece of chiffon at her throat. Modelâ€™s hair is up and she wears Jacques Heim earrings.
Luxurious travel coat with black fox fur detail. The asymmetric rolled collar in fur drives deep into the left side of the placket and nips in tightly at the waist. Two buttons sit in the hip girdle below. The large sleeves are full peltry to the elbow and circumnavigate the total arm. The placket runs on a triangular frame and floats out to enormous fox fur that sits on the edge of the garment. The entire fox fur panels swing out on the hemline. Model wears her hair up under a matching black fur hat and Jacques Heim earrings.
Evening Dresses and Ball Gowns
Evening dress with a Spanish inspired bolero and a transparent sleeve in netting or silk tulle. The sleeves are full length to the cuff or possibly finished with gloves that are pit length. The corsage in lemon is a beautifully handmade silk flower. The bodice and skirt of this ensemble is made of gazar or organza that has been screen printed, or has ribbon embroidered through the organza in elephant breath grey. Hair is upswept, and she wears Jacques Heim signature black and white enamel choker and simple earrings.
Alluring evening gown in forget-me-not blue silk crepe de chine. A beautiful collar that scoops deep and revealing to the bust, and then twists into an extraordinary knot. It is swathed behind the torso to reveal a pleated waist band to the hip girdle with a knotted rope. The rope ends into a beautiful bow at the back of the full circle sunray pleated skirt. Model wears her hair in 40â€™s snood style and contained within a hairnet. Her neckline is exquisitely decorated with the signature Jacques Heim black and white enamel choker and simple earrings.
Back view of a dramatic black velvet evening gown. The drape over the shoulder sits in a draped swag across the bust. It is backless almost to the waist forming a V-shape. The skirt is an all-in-one pleated drape that is wrapped around the front panel and tied over the back. The model wears pit length white kid opera gloves. Hair upswept with simple earrings and black and white enamel choker.
Grecian inspired evening gown in mocha brown chiffon. The soft pleated silk is gathered to the front of the bodice line and softly swagged over the shoulders. The garment underlines the rib cage and is exposed in two panels. It is draped towards the middle of the back then gathered at the centre front. The full skirt is sunray pleated. Modelâ€™s hair is upswept in a chignon and she wears Jacques Heim signature black and white enamel choker and earrings. Sketch is more probably that of the Master tailor.
Bell shaped evening gown of chocolate brown and liquorice black. Low dĂŠcolletage through the neck line to a small black revere collar. It is slashed from left to right with inserted taffeta that surmounts towards the left shoulder tied with an oversize asymmetric bow. The full length hour glass figure evening gown and its long fitted sleeves shine in lustrous satin. An asymmetrical spiral of ribbon circulates in increasing scale from above the heart line down to the back of the garment. A massive muff of fox fur is held at her thigh. Modelâ€™s hair is up and she wears signature Jacques Heim earrings.
Evening coat with a 19th century style bolero fitted jacket. Over the sleeves are vents, which manoeuvre themselves separately, and drives deep into the nipped waist. There is a secret pocket in one of the inserts. A large kitten bow is placed high across the neckline. Buttons sit on the left of the vents, and above the shawl collar is a single button that sits above the bust line. At the back of the full-length bell shaped fluted coat are five segmented panels finished at the waist with a sharply tailored bow. Model wears an exquisite velvet ribbon, white tulle toque turban, and simple earrings.
Back view of a ruby red Victorian style ball gown. A swathed bertha collar drapes across the shoulder line. The signature bustier is backless. The floor length polonaise is of gathered silk. In order to create this voluminous overskirt, a concertinaed length of brocade-like silk is used. The skirt flutes in ten panels. It reveals nine across the front and has a big bow across the derriere, with the bow tail exposed. Beneath this shows a mantle of regatta like pleats. Model wears pit length opera gloves in white. Her hair is up with Jacques Heim signature black and white enamel choker, and simple earrings.
Glamorous rouge royale slipper satin ball gown. The simple collar rolls under a shawl neckline to form a bolero becoming huge rounded puffed sleeves. Over the shoulder is a tippet of fox fur or a feather. The nipped waist is followed by a huge flowing skirt supported by multiple petticoats. A pair of elbow-length white opera gloves are worn by the model. Her hair is upswept with Jacques Heim signature black and white enamel choker and simple earrings.
Alluring black ensemble with appliquĂŠd ribbon of diamante grapes and berries. The yoke of the sleeve line sits behind a delicate bustier of musk lilac pink encrusted with gemstones. Waist coat style to the hip girdle, and finished with self-coloured buttons. There is indication of highlights of jewelled appliquĂŠ on the border. Tightly fitted bolero sits like a V-shape and is possibly detachable. The model wears matching gloves. Hair upswept with Jacques Heim signature jewellery of choker and earrings.
Spanish inspired evening ensemble. A Spanish bolero with three huge covered buttons and tassels in antique bullion gold like that of a matadorâ€™s jacket. The long sleeve features three covered gold pompom buttons at the cuff. Underneath the bolero is a deep ruffled blouse, and a cummerbund style skirt with long tailored pockets on the hips. Model wears her hair in a snood, with Jacques Heim signature black and white enamel choker and simple earrings.
A divine black curvilinear evening ensemble. This garment features a high asymmetric mandarin collar with two large crescents that form the centre front of decorative appliquĂŠd bullion braid. The bustier includes six buttons to the waist band. Full length fitted sleeves complete the jacket. The peplum of five cut petal or crescent shapes surmounted with bullion braid sit in the girdle of an enormous fluted skirt. The underlying illustration reveals a transparent old bronze coloured sheath dress. The model wears a tiny Parisian pill box with an enormous cloud of veiling tied in a kitten bow behind her neckline. In her left hand is a huge silver fox fur muff. She wears the signature Jacques Heim earrings.
Coquettish brown all-in-one evening ensemble. Enormous V-line cape collar falls across the entire shoulder line of the model and is multi-stitched behind the hem line. The sleeves are fully fitted to the arms. The nipped waist is pulled across the hip girdle by three darts with and elegant bow tied at the centre back. The dress is cut in seven panels to swing in and out in motion. A ball of silver fox held as a muff on her left hand. Model wears a smoky veil covering her chin line beneath a fur toque, with Jacques Heim signature black and white enamel choker and simple earrings.
Evening ensemble with black Persian lamb detail. The bolero, outlined in Persian lamb, sits in the bust line from the neck. Below this are a turtle neck collar and a nipped in waist with puffed Persian lambskin pockets on the hip line. On her right hand is a muff in the same lambskin. The model wears an asymmetric toque in Persian lamb with a froth of chin veiling. She wears black suede gauntlet gloves and Jacques Heim signature earrings.
Foxy evening ensemble that represents true Parisian haute couture. A mandarin collar gently swathes across the throat. Entire sprigs of laurel leaves are appliquĂŠd in beading from the throat and continue across the shoulder line and towards the right bust. The hip basque has a unique ovoid shape and below the hip line are five fronds of embroidered laurel. The sheath line skirt is asymmetrically revealed and slightly fluted. An enormous fox fur stole is held on her left arm. Brown leather gloves. Modelâ€™s hair is up with Jacques Heim signature black earrings.
Chic evening ensemble in black panne velvet and sheer crepe de chine. The tubular pleated neckline drapes around the entire yoke of the neck and sits above the bust line in two pocket indications. The nipped waist armature to the bodice is in black velvet and the hip basque has two pockets trimmed with soft fluting. The sleeve is transparent and long. The skirt is sunray pleated and carries a hemline border of tubular pleating. Model wears a pair of black suede gauntlet gloves with a double cuff indication. Her hair is upswept with Jacques Heim signature black and white enamel choker, and simple earrings.
Black and tan evening ensemble in tartan plaid. A high mandarin collar trimmed in astrakhan. An appliquĂŠd ribbon goes diagonally across the bodice, ignoring the full length sleeves, and continues to criss cross the full bell shape of the skirt. The hem of the skirt is trimmed in astrakhan. From the cinched waist, five oyster shell shapes swag off the hip. Model wears tan leather gloves and her hair upswept.
Simply elegant evening ensemble in black organza. The fabric drapes in a yoke behind the neck and below the bust line where it ties it off neatly. The model is in a heart shape bustier with five appliquĂŠd buttons reinforcing the bust line. Below the bust line is a tiny pair of peplums that sit in a scallop shape on both sides of the hip line. There are five or six major pleats inserted in the skirt. The sleeves come to the elbow and are ruched. The model wears white kid gauntlet gloves. Modelâ€™s hair is upswept, and she wears Jacques Heim signature black and white enamel choker and simple earrings.
This sensual evening gown is draped across the bust in multiple layers pleats of chiffon. The bust line is squared off and a bow sits pertly beneath the bustier. The tailored nipped waist has layers or petals feeding from the garment on the bias. The model wears white gauntlet kid gloves. Hair is upswept with Jacques Heim signature black and white enamel choker and earrings.
Striking evening gown in matte black transparent silk organza. It has an empire ruffled collar with a French bow tied at the back. Pleats come from above the yoke to the bodice with transparent full length sleeves. The cummerbund sits high on the waist. The Victorian-inspired horizontal pleating on the bodice contrasts with the sunray pleats at the back of the gown. A polonaise front of sunray pleating dramatically cascades from the waist to the floor. Model holds an extravagant black sable muff in her left hand. She wears a black leather glove on her right hand. Hair is worn snood style and she wears black earrings.
Extravagant winter ensemble in golden maize colour. Signature feature of this garment is its dalmatic sleeve with a button sleeve lock. There are ten pleats left and right on the front bodice that flow through the entire outer garment. A tiny velvet bow is on the collar line and the high collar is buttoned all the way down the full length of the ensemble. A pleated mantle overlay completes the look with a second velvet bow belt at the nipped waist. A generous band of silver fox peltry hems the garment with a huge matching muff. Model wears a gauzy grey face veil underneath a pixie yellow felt hat with a matching felt bow.
Spring and Summer Collections
Stunning summer ensemble with a double bertha collar in gazar or organdie with red silk embroidered monogramme. Crossing asymmetrically, the two bertha collars become an enveloping capped sleeve. Its nipped waist has four self-covered buttons. Below the waist is a full circle skirt with sunray pleats, where red ribbon appliquĂŠd embroidery is inserted. Model wears her hair up with Jacques Heim earrings.
A sensual summer cocktail ensemble in mocha brown with natural white satin detail. The transparent bertha collar that floats on a yoke of galloon ribbon, covers a strapless bodice. On the right shoulder sits a swathed bow. The bust and the bustier line are outlined in galloon. Five tiny buttons come to the nipped waist and a further five buttons down the skirt. There are four panels outlined by the galloon ribbon on the full skirt. Model wears her hair up with a single Jacques Heim earring.
Chinoiserie inspired silk ensemble with a mandarin high collar and three quarter sleeve finished with a tailored double buttoned cuff. Its floral printed design is in musk lilac tones. Its large pockets are functional and she carries a matching transparent shawl on the right hand side. Her upswept hair is under a dramatic slipper satin emerald green indented coolie. She wears elbow length white kid gloves.
A beautiful racing ensemble in a rye and yellow printed silk. The outfit is composed of a rolled double collar that leads to eight buttons down the bodice. Two upthrust hip pockets are squared, each with one button. Allin-one full length sleeve with gauntlet gloves in antelope. Its peplum rolled back over the hip girdle to feminize the soft edged collar. The skirt has a split in the front, sewn to the depth of the 他 skirt. The sheath line has a transparent fan tail with a beautiful feminine bow of transparent silk or organza. The model has a cloud of veiling under a wimple shape hat, and a pair of white earrings.
A chartreuse summer dress ensemble. The neckline features a V-shaped jet deep plunging collar with an artificial bodice of plaid. It sits behind the collar line and is V-shaped to the waist, much like a manâ€™s dress shirt. The Âž sleeves are rolled back. The basque of the bodice floats to a very interesting contained band of plaid with two rouleau bows tied left and right floating separately from the garment. Below this line is a full sunray pleated skirt. Model wears her hair up under a Monte Carlo style profile hat and Jacques Heim earring.
Day ensemble in elephant gray wool crepe. Has a soft feminine multi-stitched collar which overlaps just above the bustier line. Soft counter line to the bust and 7 buttons going down the all-in-one waist. The hip girdle is sewn into an enveloping elliptical shape that overrides the hip bask. The dress line continues down the vent, below where the final button is meant to be open. The sunray pleats are pulling the skirt on the full petticoat. The model has flock veiling hand tied with tiny chenille pieces over a chestnut brown broad brimmed hat. The hat is narrow in the front, revealing a pinched peak moving into a russet. The model wears earrings and an enamel black and white choker. It is a prediction of the New Look.
Haute couture racing ensemble in liquorice black. Dramatically simple, it incorporates a bustier fitted jacket with a soft draped collar. The fluted peplum is an extreme example of fabric engineering and floats three waves away from the derriere. The skirt is gathered to swag across the front and is tightly sculpts the nipped in hips. A striking profile red picture hat and white gauntlet gloves complete the silhouette.
Simple elegance in a dramatic long line cocktail sheath in charcoal draped wool. It has a square line collar with a structured mid-length sleeve finished with a double cuff. On the left side of the garment is a half peplum, bell shaped off the hip swag, which ties across a bow at the centre front of the nipped waist. The back view proves the asymmetry right on the derriere, capped on the back. The end of the skirt incorporates a knife effect that further accentuates the asymmetric ovoid shape on the hip basque. The hat relates to French nunnery headdresses in jade caribou. It sits on her head with a low crown and brim shaped like of a scroll. The outfit is completed with white gauntlet gloves and a Jacques Heim choker.
Glamorous race day ensemble in musk pink and black. Its separate jacket has two finely tiered collars that come into the dĂŠcolletage. Above the bust line of this blouse style jacket is a V-line designation of double stitching. Four buttons accent the nipped waist with a small vent alluding to the right side of the placket. Multi-stitching is indicated on the pocket caps on the hip basque. Its full length sleeves are accessorised with gauntlet black leather or suede gloves to match the enormous oval brim picture hat. The full Âž line skirt is made of a froth of transparent tulle. The model wears the signature Jacques Heim black and white enamel choker.
An exceptional example of haute couture elegance in this black race day ensemble. The revere high collar thrusts outright from the neckline. Full length fitted sleeves stop at white antelope gauntlet gloves. There are 3 buttons from the hip basque below the bust line. The nipped waist has two handkerchief hemlines asymmetrically draping from the left side of the hip girdle. Ingenious double layering is created by multi stitching behind the seam line. The sheath dress is figure hugging. The modelâ€™s upswept hair is covered by an exquisite black and white hat with indications of feathers or merely a silhouette in shadowing. She wears chalk white chamois gauntlets gloves and Jacques Heim earrings.
A spectacular black and white racing ensemble illustrates an extravagant guipure lace bertha collar draping into a dramatic pleated bustier. Five tiny jet buttons reveal the front placket (although seven are shown on the side sketch) to the waist and hip line of the girdle. A ¾ length pencil skirt incorporates 4 panels of guipure lace godets or inserted seams of lace that vivaciously swing from the centre back. The insert’s hem is finished in a lace leaf appliqué detail. A transparent ¾ length sleeve indicates that the drape in the textile fabrication could allude to a silk or wool crepe. A solitary white kid gauntlet glove, earring and matching choker accessorise the model who wears an enormous white Breton brimmed cartwheel hat.
Jackets, Peplum, and Suitings
An elegant autumnal suit in graphite wool. Military style V-shaped collar asymmetrical to the left side of the bust. Double buttoning like a military style uniform. Ten buttons follow through the nipped waist hip girdle. There is a pleat in the peplum, and a kick pleat which becomes a floating panel at the centre back of the multi-stitched 他 length sheath skirt. There are two small inserts of pockets in black velvet. The shoulders are fitted and streamlined to the wrist, with gauntlet antelope gloves in a sandstone colour. Model wears an enormous romantic picture brimmed hat in a matching sandstone colour, decorated with a swathe of flock of veiling. Her hair is worn in a chignon at the nape of her neck, and she wears signature Jacques Heim earrings.
Chintz suiting in cafe latte and musk pink floral print ornamentation. The pattern dominates the 他 length jacket and the sari-like 他 length skirt. Ten buttons fill the inner placket in this Imperial style jacket. Two pleats sit over the peplum structure of the double pocket with a central triangular placket giving it cohesion. Model wears a pill box toque in black velour with a smoky silk cloud veiling, and matching gauntlet suede gloves. She wears Jacques Heim signature choker in black and white enamel and simple earrings.
Suited ensemble in glossy black. A beautiful white scarf is neatly tucked cravat style under her jacket collar. Five buttons go down the bell-shaped oval peplum on the front panel. Full-length sleeves are finished with white kid gauntlet gloves. A solitary fly away panel attaches at the back of the skirt for the full length of the skirt. The model wears a white visored low crowned bonnet and Jacques Heim earrings.
Parisian style dove grey day suit. A button line comes from the collar line of the garment, down to the end of the sleeve. The dramatic fitted line from the shoulder comes to the nipped waist creating four swags or pleated panels. Its Art Deco-shaped peplum is surmounted with two simple pockets. Full gathered swing skirt in taffeta. Model wears a small clutch whimsy and Jacques Heim earrings.
Sumptuous cocktail suit in black silk taffeta. Triple-tiered vented high collar with four button jacket. Below the nipped waist is a narrow peplum with triple layering beneath the hip pocket. Full-length tapered sleeves finished with black gauntlet gloves. Hair is upswept and model wears Jacques Heim earrings.
American rodeo inspired wool and velvet suit. Metal studs decorate a bolero under the jacket. The collar matches the first decorated layer and, the second layer is plain and overlapped. Full-length sleeve finished with a black suede gauntlet gloves. A belt with a round buckle sits on the nipped waist and two large satchel pockets over the front. Modelâ€™s hair is upswept in a chignon and she holds a huge arctic fox fur stole. She wears Jacques Heim signature black and white enamel choker and simple earrings
Classical emerald green ensemble with a wool tartan off the shoulder cape or coat. The suiting includes a peplum jacket which has Maltese cross pattern pockets. Underneath is a beautiful white blouse. Model wears her hair up under a matching large draped asymmetric swag beret with a matching bow in tartan.
Autumnal blouse style jacket in rust brown delicate gingham weave. Small stand up starched white collar. Ten self-covered buttons complete the placket. Below the nipped waist is a beautiful pair of double button pockets that accentuate the girdle. The full circle 他 length skirt has sunray pleats in grey wool. It is matched with a low crowned, low brimmed grey felt hat with a small bow flourish at the back. Model wears simple Jacques Heim earrings.
Jazzy autumn jacket in black and white gingham and an antelope brown crepe skirt. The collar sits high and vented on the neckline and asymmetrical over the left bust. Black buttons fill the placket with two buttons dominating the feature. Two decorative buttons sit on the right of the nipped waist. Two small pockets reveal themselves on the hip basque. The sleeves are full length and angle cuffed, finished with an antelope leather glove. The sheath skirt sits well below the knee line in a drape. Model wears a roller brimmed day wear halo hat to match, and Jacques Heim earrings.
Published on Aug 9, 2012
Combining art and fashion, MFA (Melbourne Fine Art) exhibits a series of rare post-war illustrations from the fashion house of French coutur...