:^\WMSMM^MMMMmm:S
<w
^W^P
i
Aw>
%j:
y
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
DDDDTH353^S ft
ittoom
'
mMi
â€¢'"
0ass_T_l_53__O Book
y
O
5"
CCFYRIGHT DEPOSKR
q
DRAFTING Cotton Garments and cMackinaws
w Harry
$imons
Technical Editor of The Clofhing, Desig,nei~ & (^Manufacturer^ and cv4ufhoi~ of "Science of Grading,"; <r
"'Designing, Overcoats" "^Drafting, ;
^Pants and Overalls"; "Designing, Sack Coats, Dress Coats and Vests"
Copyright
/
191<
(Published by"
Tlie Cloftung, ^Desi^ner^ 70 Fiffh c4venue,
Company
cNew York
City
tf
<v Introduction HE
explained
(F (Â§
The
in this
system which
volume,
is
sa
very simple and can be easily
author
minutely described can be depended
is
the reader
give
to
has
immediate
endeavored
and
explain
to
satisfactory results.
the
to
be used on various
different allowances to
well
Garments and Mackinaws
Cotton
of
understood by the ordinary layman.
The
upon
drafting
style
reader
the
garments as
as the variety of fabrics.
^ The
drafts
are
made by
all
proportionate method,
the
using the breast measure as the keynote
and guide
obtain
to
the sectional measurements.
Ifl
Every
cribed in C It
is
style this
the
garment can be created from the points
intention
to give to the
des
book. of
Cotton
and simple method
the
author
Garment
of drafting
in
publishing this
Industry
a
thoroly
book
reliable
the various Cotton Garments
that they manufacture.
HARRY
SIMONS,
/#
ÂŠCI.A501987
Page Two
OCT 1 1918
Author
3
Ind ex Preliminary Instruction Construction Lines for the Back Drafting the Forepart Drafting the Under Collar Stock Sack Coat
Work
Coat
Stout Work Coat Barber's Coat No Collar Barber's Coat 
Hunting Coat Grocer's Gown Military Blouse Boys' Work Coat
Bar Vest Three Buttoned Double Shawl Collar Mackinaw Drafting Shawl Collars Making a Whole Back
4 5 67 89
1011 1213 1415 1617 1819 2021 2223 2425 2627
2829
Breasted
Convertible Collar Mackinaw Military Collar Mackinaw Stout Mackinaw Shawl Collar Mackinaw Sleeve
â€”
3031 32 33 3435 3637 3839
Raglan 4041
Making Longs and Shorts from Regular Block
4243 444546
Mail Order Changes Making a Box Back from a Regular Sack Coat Men's and Boys' Proportions
Books
.
Patterns School
iimimiitnimiimimiimiimiimnmiimiimiimiimimiimiiimmiiiimmiimiiiiiiiimiimmiiiiiiiMi i
[inn
mil.
i
i
inn. in."
imiiiinimiiiiiJiimiiiiiiiniiii
minimi iiiiniiiiiii'ii
iimiiimiiiiiiiimim
m
minn
nr
46 47 48 48 48
mm
miiiimuii
Page Three
Preliminary Instruction HE
illustrated in this size 36 or 38, except in the case of stouts, which are drafted size 40.
drafts
book are either
These model
are
considered
the
sizes that are generally used in the "readymade" houses. When a model is per
fected and passed upon, as it
is
is the usual custom, then graded up and down to the various
sizes required.
For the Beginner In drafting these garments, a knowledge of the tailor square is absolutely essential otherwise the student will become confused. When ^ cixtn of breast is quoted, the average student In will immediately say 1/6 of 36 is 6 inches. the case of drafting 1/6 of 36 is 1/6 of 18 on the sixth scale, inasmuch as only one side of the garment is drafted. The only place throughout the system where this differs is on the breast measure, where onehalf of the actual measure For example, if the breast of draft is applied. measure is 36 inches, 18 inches is given. ;
All regular sack models are figured on a basis of 5 feet 8 inches in height. The sleeve inseam The draft on creating is figured 18 inches. longs and shorts explains clearly how the heights are figured.
A
full list of proportions will be found on the last page of this book, which will act as a guide to draft the various sizes.
In drafting for wholesale or "readymade'' concerns, no short measures are necessary. The proportions are figured on the average built model for the given size of an average height The system here taught will automatically bring out the various sectional measures by using the divisions of the breast measure.
Memorizing Imperative absolutely imperative to memorize the text of the first three diagrams, as the entire method is based on the points explained in them There are slight deviations on some of the othei drafts to get the desired effects. These changes are explained wherever they appear. It
Diagram
A
is
Every point that is necessary in the drafting Cotton Garments and Mackinaws will br found within the pages of this book. Some of <>f
the best known designers attribute their success to the use of this system, as it is so simple and efficient. The best possible results as to balance and fit have been obtained through it for years.
Page Four
It is not a matter of guess or theory. It is the results of twentyfive years' experience with the largest concerns in the country. No designer or cutter need hesitate to use this system Diagram A. This explains the location of the measurements taken. Line A is the neck point. Line B is the height of shoulder. Line C is the breast line. Line D is the waistline. Line E is the seat line. Line F is the length of sack. If an overcoat, the length is made accordingly.
_al_io.
_,ÂŤ
â€”
G

c
D
D\a
1
6i_L5
Construction Lines for Drafting the Back draft explains the points on the back for conservative Palm Beach sack coat. Allowances should be made for double needle machine. Measurements: Breast 36 inches.
THIS Draw 2 to
line
A
2AGBCDEF.
%
inch. of 19 from A. This you will note is figured on a basis of 2 sizes larger than the breast measure. This only applies to the depth of scye. C is y2 of 19 from A. is 17% inches from A, y4 of the total height, 5 feet 8 inches. E is 23 inches from A. F is the full length, 30 inches in this case. is half way between and B. Square out from points 2AGBCDEF. is inch from D. J is inch from F.
B
is
is
A
% %
is
L L
1/3 of breast inch.
is
to 4 is
%
to 7,
which
will establish
from H.
Square up and down from 5 is squared from 4. 10 is squared from 4. inch from 5. 6 is
4.
%
A
Draw
K
to 3 is 2 inches.
Square up from 3 points 8 and 9.
X
D
G H
K
line
GHF.
1/3 of 18
from
C.
DRAFTING THE BACK. Continue from Diagram 1. 12 is 1/6 of breast from A. 13 is squared from 12. 14
is
Draw 15
is
Draw 16 17 18
% from 13. line 214. % inch from
8.
line 1415.
is
1/12 of breast from
is
%
is
y4
3.
from 16. from 17.
Shape the line 1518 and then draw the centei seam and sideseam, which finishes the back. (Continued on next page)
Page Five
Drafting the Forepart (Conservative Sack)
Diagram
III
The back of this draft is drafted the same as the previous diagram. 20 is 2/3 of 18 from C. 21 is 1% inches from 20. Square up from 21 to 22. 22 to 23 is 1/6 of breast plus V2 inch.
Draw
line 2315.
23 to 25 is XA inch less than 14 to 15. 26 is from 25. Shape the shoulder and armhole 2623 and
%
2627. 17 to
X
%
is
%
inch.
inch from 4. is 2*4 inches from 11. is the length of sideseam of forepart which is the same as 186. Shape the sideseam, as illustrated. 31 is 18 inches from 24, of the actual breast measure. 32 is 2V2 inches from 31. 33 is 1% inches from 32. 34 is squared from 33. 35 is 1/6 of breast from 34. Shape the gorge 2335. 36 is 2 inches from 35. 37 is squared from 33. 38 is inch from 37. 39 is squared from 21. 40 is squared from 37. 41 is obtained by sweeping the distance 2330 from 30, using point 23 as a pivot. 42 is obtained by squaring line 3839. 43 is 2/3 of the breast from 21. 44 and 45 are 2> x/Âą inches each from 43. Shape the front and bottom, which completes the draft. 28 29 30
is
%
%
Page Six
Diagram
III
Page Seven
Drafting the
Under
Diagram IV
sack coat ALLbreasted, are drafted by
single or double this method. The leaf of the double breasted coats are made collars,
onequarter inch wider. Extend the break AB to C. Draw line JE parallel to AB.
N to D
is l x/4 inches. to J is Vi inch. to E is the width of back. to F is x/4 inch allowed extra for fullness. Square up from F to K. to L is a/i inch. is inches, the width of turnover. C to
D D E
K
K
2%
This can be made
B
to I to
is
%
in
various widths.
inch. inch.
H is XA G Draw line KH.
Shape the bottom part FJIH and see that has the same run as the gorge DBG.
Draw
it
lines BCL and LM. Shape the notch MH, which completes the under collar.
Paae Eight
Collar
Regular Sleeves Diagram V THIS
sleeve can be used to
The for
all
ball of sleeve gives about
regular coat drafts.
two inches
fullness
top sleeve and there should be 34 inch fullness for
Measurements:
undersleeve.
size
36
in.
inseam
1
8
in.
â€”
DRAFT Draw
line
A to D
1â€” H ,
ADCB.
1/12 of 18. D to C is Vi of 18. C to B is 18 inches, the inseam. V is half way between C and D. Square out from points ADCVB. C to E is 1^4 inches. EF is y2 of 18. Square up and down from point F. K is half way between J and A. L is half way between A and K. Shape the top sleeve FKE. are 1*4 inches each. C to N and C to is
M
Shape EN.
B
to to
O is % R and
inch. to P are iVi inches each.
lines MR and NP. Shape the inseam of sleeve NP. to S is half of che bottom of sleeve plus
Draw
%
inch.
Square down from S
to T. inches. Shape the outside seam FHGT, V2 inch at point G.
S to
T
is
1%
coming out
Shape the bottom TOP, which finishes the top sleeve.
UNDER SLEEVE F to Y is 1 inch. Draw line JU. Shape the line YM. Shape the inseam MR and the outside seam YT.
Draw
the bottom TR, which completes the
draft.
Paae Nine
Stout Sack Coat Diagram VI
T
HIS
draft is for a normal Stout figure, 5 ft. 7 in. in height. Full explanation is given as Every detail should be carefully memoto the proper distribution of fat at the waist. rized.
X Y
MEASUREMENTS.
to to
Y
is
2 x/2 inches. IV2 inches.
Z is Square up from Z to
Breast 40 inches. Waist 40 inches.
Draw
Length 31 inches.
26
is
7.
.
line 5U.
half
way between 25 and U.
%
5 to 23 is less than 2 to 0. 7 to 6 is 1/6 of breast. Draw line 64, dropping y2 inch
DRAFTâ€”BACK. Draw line ABCDEFGH. A to B is % inch. B to C is y4 of 21. B to E is y2 of 21. D is half way between B and C. B to F is 17y2 inches. B to G is 26 inches (seat line). B to H is the full length of 31 inches. Square out from points
%
K
F
ABCDEFGH.
to is inch. to J is Vi inch. Draw line AKJ.
H E
M
1/3 of 20 plus 2 inches. to P. inch. to L is Square down from L to R. B to is 1/6 of 20 plus V2 inch. to is 1 inch. to
is
Square up from
M
%
M
N
N
Draw
line AO. to 2 is inch. Draw line 02. to is 1/12 of breast.
U
M
%
V
Come
out sideseam.
3
/4
inch from point
V
to the point of
is 1 inch. (This is 1 inch for fat, or otherwords, 2/3 or y2 of the fat is applied at the front of the waistline. The balance 1/3 of y2 of the fat is divided equally between the sideseams of the forepart
12 to 13
in
and back. In figuring the fat, the regular proportions are 40 breast, 37 waist, and the proportions on a regular stout is 40 breast, 40 waist. The difference between the stout waist measure and the regular waist measure is what we call fat; therefore you will note that on a 40 stout we have inches of fat, ]/2 being applied to the draft; that is, 1 inch at the front and y2 inch at the sideseams. Square down from 13 to 16. The sideseams cross at point T. 21 to 20 is 2Y2 inches. Draw line VT2022, which is the same length as VTS.
completes the back.
to 3 is 2/3 of breast plus IV2 inches. Square up from 3 to 4 and down from 3 to 11. 4 to 5 is 1/6 of 20. E to is of breast (measure from the center seam of back).
%
is 3 inches. the notch of lapel 2% inches wide. Z to 10 is 2y2 inches. Shape lapel front and bottom. Split the draft at point 19 to pocket at point
Make
FOREPART. E
Page Ten
4.
8 to 9
R to S is % inch. Draw line VTS, which
X
from point
Shape the gorge 589. Shape the armhole 2324. Square down from Z to 12.
17.
Take in y2 inch plait at point 18, using point 17 as a pivot. This will open the Vee at point 19, as required.
Then straighten out bottom and fill in seam a trifle, which completes the draft.
side
Diagram VI
Page Elevi
Work Coat Diagram VIII draft all allowances are made for This being needle machine work. the basic draft for all garments of this kind shown in this volume, every point should be this
IN double
memorized.
Breast size
36.
THE DRAFT (BACK) Draw
A B B
to to to
line
B
is
C
% of 19. % of 19.
is
D
ABCDEFG. IV2 inches.
is
(This measurement
is al
ways
B B B
V2 of two sizes larger than the breast size.) to E is 17% inches. to F is 25 inches (seat line). to G is 31 inches.
Square out from points ABCDEFG.
G to H is 1 inch. Draw line BH. B to J is 1/6 of breast plus % K to L is % inch on all sizes. Draw line AL.
D
to
M
is
1/3 of 18 plus
2%
inch.
inches.
Square up from M to N. P is half way between N and
line C. line LP, as illustrated, extending the point of shoulder 2 inch bevond line MN to is 1/12 of breast. R to S is 3/4 inch. Draw PS, the back part of arm hole. to is inch.
Draw
M
R
M
O
y
%
Square down from O to T.
T to U is V2 inch. Draw line S14U, which completes For a whole back take
off Vx
the back. inch on line AH.
THE FOREPART. D
to
V
is
1/3 of breast plus
1%
inches.
V
to W. to is 1/6 of breast. to 2 is inches. 10 to 11 is 2 inch. Draw line 2XP and 211. 2 to 11 is V4 inch less than L to P. Shape the arm hole, 11S. Point 12 is y2 inch from line OT. 14 to 13 is 2y4 inches. Shape the side seam, S1213, which
Square up from
W
X
X
ways from points DB and C. Line SK is y2 way between B and
1% y
J to
to
Y
is
19 inches, or
y
of
two
to
Z
is
2y2
is
the
sizes larger
inches.
Z to 3 is iy2 inches. Square up from 3 to 4 and down from 3 2 to 6
is
to 9.
1/6 of breast.
Square down from 6
to
L and up from F
to E.
Square down from P to S. Shape line FJP. K is V2 inch from line EL.
C C
to to
M
N
is is
6% 6%
inches. inches.
Draw line FKM and line PON. Hollow bottom 1 inch at point C. Shape the bottom NM, which completes the sleeve.
to
which
7,
is
THE COLLAR
1/6 of
Draw
breast.
Come Come
out IV2 inches from point 7 for stand. in â€˘% inch at point 9 to get run of front. Shape neck and front as illustrated.
The
C.
inch less than V2 of 18.
A to H is 1/3 of the distance of A to E. Draw line HJ. D to P is y2 inch less than D to F.
than the breast.
Y
%
is
Square down from F
same length as S14U.
D
F
buttons are placed 1*4 inches from front
edge.
THE SLEEVE Draw line ABC. B to D is y4 of 19. D to E is 1/12 of 19. B to C is 1 inch more than which is 19 inches Square out from point
sleeve,
Pane Twelve
8%
Square down from points Square out from points
Shape the inseam of
and square both
123.
3 to 6 is 1 inch. 6 to 5 is 4 inches.
4 to 8
in this case.
A
line 123. 1 to 2 is 3/4 inch. inches. 2 to 3 is
inch. lines 26
6
and
5.
is 1
and
85 as illustrated,
which
completes the collar. For other sizes of collar, the collar is to be made Vs inch longer of shorter, as the case
may
be.
Diagram VIII
Page Thirteen
Stout
Work Coat
Diagram XI
CHANGES made
from a regular work coat to a stout work coat are somewhat similar to the changes made from a regular sack coat to a stout sack coat (as explained in a previous diagram), with the exceptions that the underarm vee is not split thru the pocket, but is opened up onehalf inch. A cut is made from 12 to 14 and the coat is spread at point 12, inch. The diagram here illustrated is for size 42 breast, 42 waist. From 8 to 9 one inch is given for the fat, the balance is added at the side seams at points S and T. The collar is drafted similar to the regular work coat collar. The sleeve should be made 1 inch shorter than the regular work coat sleeve.
%
Page Fourteen
Diagram XI
Paqe Fifteen
Coat
Barbers' Diagram garment is made with a military standing collar which buttons to the neck. The top patch should be made 5 x/2 inches wide and 6V2 inches deep. The lower patch should be made 6V2 inches wide and 8V2 inches deep. An extra allowance should be made for seams. The button stand is 1V4 inches from the edge. To use this pattern for a doubleneedle machine, an
X THE FOREPART
THIS
extra allowance of 54 inch should be made at the shoulder and sideseam of forepart. The same sleeve can be drafted for this garment as is used and explained with the work coat diagram. Breast size 38, waist 35 inches.
THE DRAFT
y2
X
V2 of breast.
is is
3%
K
is 1
H
to I is
Draw the to L is L to M is
%
D
to
U
is
2/3 of
P
to
1
is
Page Sixteen
342.
iy2
which completes the
line 2021. is
8%
inches. 24.
inch. is 1% inches. Draw line 202623. 20 to 22 is y2 inch. is 1
Square down from 22 to line C.
inch.
R.
is V2 inch. lines 7Q and QTS,
inches.
forepart.
21 to 23 23 to 24
M
and
1%
K
Square down from 21 to
inch. inch.
N
to
THE COLLAR
Q
back.
plus
inches. is y2 inch. the front 2X14. the bottom 1410,
20 to 21
O to 7 is 54 inch. Draw line K7. F to T is 1/3 of 19 plus Square down from T to R to S is V2 inch. M to P is 1/12 of 19.
Draw
19,
%
Draw
halfway between
X
line 30. 3 to 5 is 54 less than to 7. 5 to 6 is inch. Shape the shoulder 63 and the armhole 6Q. 11 to 9 is 2 1/4 inches. T to 8 is y2 inch. Shape the sideseam Q8910. Q to 10 is the same length as Q to S. to 2 is 1/6 of breast. 2 to 4 is 154 inches.
inch.
center seam BFI. 1/3 of 19. 254 inches. Square up from to N. is
and down from
Draw
Shape Shape
D
O
Y
to
Square up from U to V. Z is half way between Y and V. Z to 3 is V4 inch.
12 to 13 13 to 14
inch.
Draw AK. E to F is %
X
13.
Square up from J to K. J to
inches for button stand and
makeup. Square up from
Shape the gorge
Square out from points ABCDEFGH. to J is 1/6 of 19 plus
W
to to
Y
Draw line ABCDEFGH. to B is 54 inch. B to C is % of B to D. B to D is y2 of 20. B to E is 17% inches. B to G is 24 inches. B to H is 31 inches or full length.
A
B
D
W
which
finishes the
22 to 25
1%
25.
inches. Draw line 2425. Shape the top 2320, hollowing out 54 inch at point 26. Shape the bottom 2425, filling out 54 inch at point 27. Draw lines 2025, which completes the collar. For other sizes the collar should be made 1 Vs inch longer, making the finished product 4 size. inch larger for each is
Diagram
X
Page Seventeen
No
Collar Barber's Coat Diagram XI
show a draft made similar HERE work coat with the exception that I
to the
does not button to the neck and has no lapel. The sleeve can be drafted either in one or two pieces as explained in the regular sack coat and the work coat. The same allowances are made thruout the draft for makeup and seaming as A narrow neck piece about in the work coat. two inches wide can be made to finish off the top of back. The facing of the forepart should be made so that it will be the same width at the top from point of shoulder so that it will correspond with the neck piece of the back. Breast it
size 36.
point 4 to 11 is 1% inches. Y to 9 is 1/6 of 19 plus 1*4 inches. Shape the shouider 109 as illustrated then shape the neck 911. The rest of the draft is the same as explained in the work coat.
From
Point
Page Eighteen
Diagram XI
Page Nineteen
Hunting Coat Diagram XII
SIMILAR
to the work coat, this garment is drafted, and is intended to be made of cotton materials, such as khaki and the like. The back is split from Q to D, and at the waist from to I. Allow a %inch seam on each side of the split; a 1mch inverted plait should be made as illustrated from point 30 to 31. The belt is made to go all around and to sew down
W
on the back covering the center waist seam.
The pockets are made with box plaits. The collar is made similar to the work coat collar as explained in the previous diagram.
Page Tzventy
Diagram XII
Page Twentyone
Gown
Grocers'
Diagram XIII
DRAFTED
two
sizes larger
than the regular
Size 38.
THE DRAFT A
line
B
ABCDEFG.
IV2 inches. B C is y4 of 21. B D is y2 of 21. B E is 17% inches. B F is 25 inches. B G is the full length or 46 inches. Square out from points ABCDEFG. is 1^4 inches. G to to to to to to to
is
H
Draw line AH. B to J is 1/6 of
20 plus
%
3
is
1/6 of breast plus
Square up from 3 to 3 to Z is V2 inch.
sack coat draft is the gown here illustrated and described. This draft is made with a swinging collar similar to the work With a few common sense changes this coat. draft can be used for auto dusters, doctor's gowns and the like.
Draw
Square up
Y to
Draw 7 to Z
is
Y4 inch less
H
to 12 is 1/6 of breast. line R12. to is y2 of 20. to is 4V4 inches. Square up from to R and down from 4 to 6 is Ys of breast. Square out from 6 to 13. 6 to 5 is 2 inches. Shape the gorge Z5. Point 8 is IY2 inches from line G. 8 to 9 is V2 inch. Shape the front 69 and the bottom
D
W
W
X
X
D
to is
V
is
and N.
way between Square down from R to S to
U
Draw
M
1%
inches.
and V.
S.
Ys of breast. lines QR and RU, is
the back.
Page Tzuentytwo
which completes
to
8.
912,
which completes the forepart. For double needle machine, allow Y& inch lap For a at shoulder and sideseam of forepart. whole back, take off YÂą inch from center seam.
THE COLLAR is
8V2 inches.
21 to 22 22 to 23
Draw
inches. is 4 inches. line 2220.
20 to 24 24 to 25
Draw
to 23.
is l 3/4
Square down from 20
2/3 of breast plus
half
X
Square down from 21
P to Q is % inch. Draw line LQ.
R
than L to Q.
Draw
20 to 21
Square up from M to N. P is half way between
inches.
Z.
Drop point 7 threeeighths inch and shape shoulder 7Z and armhole 7R.
inch.
plus 2 x/4 inches.
l x/4
line ZP.
Square up from J to L.
K to L is % inch. Draw line AL. D to M is 1/3 of breast
THE FOREPART from V to Y.
is
is
to 24.
4 inches.
iy2
inches. and 2220, hollowing V2 inch
lines 2325 at point 26. Draw lines 2025 the collar.
and 2223, which completes
Use the same sleeves as the work
coat.
Diagram XIII Page Twentythree
y
Military Blouse Diagram XIV double needle machine an extra FOR ance of Vs inch should be made on
all
seams
garments made from this draft. It is adaptable for cotton materials, such as khaki, duck, etc. The back should be made whole. Onequarter inch should be taken off from A to of
H. The sleeve draft is made similar to the sack coat sleeve and the collar is drafted similar to military collar, as explained on the barber's coat draft. Measurements Breast, 36 inches waist, 32 inches; length, 28 inches. :
THE SIDEBODY
allow
;
D Q R
to 8 is V2 of 18 plus V/2 inches. to is y> inch. to S is 3/4 inch. to 13 is 1 inch. to 14 is I 1/? inches. Shape the side seam SK131415, making it the same length as the back side seam. 13 to 10 is y4 of 18 plus y4 inch. Draw line S8, then shape the seam 8101112. Shape the bottom, 1215, which completes the
R
U V
sidebody.
THE DRAFT Draw
A B B B B B
to to to to to to
line
B
ABCDEFG.
y4 y4 y2
inch. of 19. C is D is of 19. E is I6V2 inches. F is 22 2 inches. G is the full length, or 28 inches. is
Square out from points ABCDEFG.
G
to
H
is
iy4
inches.
Draw line AH. B to I is 1/6 of 18
%
plus V2 inch.
inch. to J is Draw line AJ. D to is 1/3 of 18. to L is 2 inches. Draw line LM. I
K
K N
half way between Q and M. is x/2 inch from N. P is 5/4 inch from 0. Draw line JP. 1 to U is 1/6 of 18 plus V2 inch. is y4 of 18. to Shape the side seam QXVW, which finishes the back.
H
is
W
Page Twentyfour
THE FOREPART D
Y
to to
Y
is
Z
is
2/3 of
18.
1%
inches. Square up from Z to 2. 2 to 3 is 1/6 of 18 plus V2 inch. Z to 4 is y4 inch. Draw line 4N. inch. 5 to 6 is Shape the shoulder, 64, and the arm hole, 67. 10 to 9 is 1 inch. 16 to 11 is 1 inch. 12 to 17 is iy2 inches. Shape the side seam, 791617. D to 18 is 18 inches. 18 to 19 is 4 inches. Square up from 19 to 20 and down from 19
%
to 26. 3 to 21 is 1/6 of 18. 21 to 23 is 1/6 of 18. 23 to 24 is 1 inch. inch. 28 to 29 is Square 272926, then shape the neck, front and bottom as illustrated. The pocket is made 11 inches from the breast line Z.
%
XO
21
Diagram XIV
Page Twentyfive
Work Coat
Boys'
(Age 12)
Diagram similar MADE draft except
to the
proportions.
that
The
men's work coat is this it is drafted by boys' identical
for boys.
Measurements Breast, 29 inches inches; neck, 13 inches. :
22 to 23
;
waist, 27
is
1%
inches.
Square up from 23 to X. X to 25 is 1/6 of 14%.
idea as the
men's coat is carried out in every detail. On the last page of this book will be found a complete list of boys' proportions with which any size can be drafted. With the system laid out as explained in this draft the reader should be able to draft any of the various style garments
XV
25 to
A
1%
is inches. to 26 is inch, Draw line 262716. 27 to 28 is inch. Shape the shoulder 2826. 19 to 36 is inch. 20 to 37 is inch. Shape the side seam 363738, making it the same length as the back side seam. of the breast, or 14% inches. 50 to 24 is 24 to 29 is inches. 29 to 30 is inches. Square up from 30 to 31 and down from 3029. 8 to 33 is 1/6 of 14%. 33 to 34 is 1/8 of 14%. 33 to 32 is 1 inch. inches. 35 to 39 is inch. 39 to 40 is
A
% % % % %
2% 1%
THE DRAFT Draw
line 123456.
2 is 1 inch. 2 to 3 is of 15. 2 to 4 is of 15, which is onehalf of one size larger than the breast measure. 2 to 5 is 14 inches. 2 to 6 is 25% inches, the full length. Square out from points 123456. inch. 6 to 7 is 1 to
% %
1%
%
Shape the gorge front and bottom, which completes the draft.
%
Draw From
line 17. 2 to 8 is 1/6 of 14%. 8 to 9 is inch. Square up from 911. 10 to 11 is inch. Draw line 111. 4 to 12 is 1/3 of 14%. 12 to 13 is 1/12 of 14% plus inch. Square up from 13 to 15 and down from 13 to 14. 16 is half way between 15 and line 3. 16 to 17 is inch. Draw line 1117. 13 to 18 is 1/12 of 14%. 18 to 19 is inch. 14 to 21 is inch. Shape the side seam 1921, hollowing out inch at point 20.
THE COLLAR
%
%
%
%
% %
THE FOREPART 4 to 22
is
2/3 of 14%.
Page Twentysix
%
Draw is
line 4142.
%
41 to 42 is of the collar plus 7 inches in this case. Square down from points 4142. 42 to 43 is 1 inch.
Draw
%
inch,
which
line 4143.
43 to 44 is 3 inches. 44 to 45 is i/i inch. 41 to 46 is 3% inches. Square out from 46 to 47, which is 1% inches. Draw line 4147, then shape the lines 4341 and 4547, which completes the collar. To figure the front waist measure you will find the following rule very practical, especially on smaller sizes. of 13%, the waist measure. From 51 to 52 is 52 to 53 is 1% inches and square down from 53 to 59. The balance of the draft remains the same, as previously explained.
%
Diagram
XV
Page Twentyseven
Bar Vest Diagram XVI
ON
the bar vest here illustrated all allowances are made for double needle machine stitched seams. The regular sack coat or work coat sleeves can be used with this vest. Breast size, 36; waist, 32 inches, length, 26V2 inches.
THE DRAFT Draw
line 123456. 1 to 2 is inch. 2 to 3 is %, of 19. 2 to 4 is 2 of 19.
%
is
the waist length,
17%
inches.
5 to 6 is 3 inches.
Square out from points
shape the centre back
seam. 1/6 of 18 plus
2 to 8 8 to 9
is 1
Draw
line 19.
is
%
inch.
Square up from 1112. 14 is half way between V2 inch. Draw line 915. 41 to 16 is 2/3 of 18. is
Page Twentyeight
y2
of the waist.
19 to 20 is iy4 inches. Shape the side seam 182021. 41 to 27 is 18 inches. 27 to 28 is 2Y2 inches. 28 to 29 is 1 inch.
Square up from 29 to 30 and down from 29 to 38. 22 to 23 is 1/6 of 18 plus 2 inch. 23 to 24 is y4 inch. Draw line 242513. 25 to 26 is 2 inch. Shape the shoulder, 2624, and arm hole, 2618. 35 to 36 is 2 of 16. 36 to 37 is 2 iiiches. Shape the side seam, 183740, making it V2
y
inch less than the back side seam. 23 to 32 is 1/6 of 18.
inch.
Square down from 3233, which
4 to 10 is 1/3 of 18. 10 to 11 is 2V2 inches.
14 to 15
inches.
y
123456.
%
inch. 5 to 7 is Draw line 17, then
is l 3/4
V
y
2 to 5
16 to 17
Square up from 17 to 22. 18 is half way between 1711. 19 is y2 of 16 from 7. This is
is 1/6 of 18. inch. 33 to 34 is 38 to 39 is l 3/4 inches. Shape the neck, front and bottom, which completes the forepart. The collar of this draft should be made similar to the military collar of the barber's coat.
%
line 3
and
12.
Diagram XVI
Page Twentynine
rhree Button Double Breasted Shawl Collar
Mackinaw
Diagram XVII
YOU basis
will note that this coat is drafted on a of two sizes larger than the sack coat. Every point should be carefully
and memorized as
studied
this
draft
is
the
Square down from J to K.
K
3 /4
to 5 is
*.:%
foundation of the mackinaw drafts that follow. Measurements: Breast 38 inches, length 33 inches.
C
Draw B
A A A
to to to to to
line ABCDEF. is *4 of 21 plus of 21. C is is 17% inches.
B
%
D
E F
%
to
R
is
THE FOREPART 2/3 of 20 plus 1% inches.
R to V. 1/6 of 20 plus V2 inch. Drop shoulder V4 inch at point X; Draw line X10. 10 to X is'% less than P to 11. Shape the shoulder 10X and the armhole
V
inch.
to
X
is
25 inches. the full length or 33 inches. Square out from points ABCDEF.
109.
F to G is IVi inches. Draw line AG.
Shape the sideseam 97126, making more than the sideseam of back. C to S is 20 irches.
A
to
O
is
is
is
1/6 of 21 plus
%
inch.
Square up from O to P.
C
to to
P
is
H
is
IV2 inches. 2/3 of 20 plus 2 inches.
Square up from H to L. is half way between L and
M M
line B.
%
inch from Draw line 11N. H to J is V2 inch.
Page Thirty
1
S to
T
T
U
to
N
3% inches. 2% inches or V2 up from U to W
it
%
is
is
of button stand.
and down from
U
Shape the gorge X14 jnd the front 144. Sweep from point X, using X6 as a radius
to
Square
W to 14 Draw
N
Square out
8 to 7 is V2 inch. 13 to 12 is 2V2 inches.
to Z.
inch. to 11 is Draw line Pll. is 1 inch. to
H
1718.
Square up from
THE DRAFT
A
inch.
Shape the sideseam N85. Plait in back inch as illustrated by
to point 9.
is
1/6 of 20.
1514.
establish point Z.
Shape the bottom draft.
46,
which completes the
Diagram XVII
Page Thirtyone
Drafting
Shawl
Collars
Diagram XVIII explain how THERE naws are drafted.
shawl collars for mackiIf the stand is made inch wider than that here illustrated, the collar should be drafted without the addition on Back and Forepart. Add ZA inch of stand on back, as illustrated.
A
to
E
is
%
%
inch.
B to D is 3A inch. Draw line ED. Shape the shoulder DC.
Add F to
the
H
is
% inch on % inch.
forepart, as illustrated.
Shape the gorge HGR.
COLLAR Extend the break JG to L. S to L is the width of back plus Square down from L to M.
V4 inch.
L to M is Vs of breast. Draw line MN.
N
%
is inch from GH. Square up from M to P. M to is % inch, the width of stand.
Draw line OG, the break. to P is Vfa inches. P to Q is V2 inch. Draw line MQ. Shape the underseam of collar MCK, as
il
lustrated.
Shape the outside seam of collar QRK, which completes the draft.
PageThirtytwo
Making
A
Whole Back
Diagram XIX
B
shows how to make a whole back from THIS the regular a seam back. ABCDEHFG is
back. Draw line BD. Place the back as indicated, so that the top and bottom point of the center seam will just touch the line BD. Then split the back at the waist line from H to C, and take in %inch plait as indicated by lines This will bring the entire center seam 1 and 2. along the line BD. Reshade the sideseam F6. Then add inch from 6 to E, the original length of sideseam. For a whole back, take off ^4 inch as indicated by the line 45. This back can also be used on striped goods with a center seam by not taking off the seam, as described heretofore.
%
i
c
3
3
TÂŁtIlJ(JtI<I/aiirar*rmn.n~â€”  ~
Page Thirtythree
â€”
Mackiaw
Convertible Collar Diagram draft made two sizes larger than the THIS For double the regular sack coat draft. is
needle machine work bear in mind an extra allowance must be made at the shoulder, side and center back seams. Measurements: Breast 36 inches, Length 34 inches.
Draw line ABCDEFG. A to B is an inch and a half. B to C is Ya of 20 inches. B to D is % of 20. B to E is 17% inches. B to F is 24 inches. B to G is the full length or 34
H
to
to I is
J to
K
1/6 of 36 plus
is
%
%
Square down from
T
%
Shape
X
W
Z to
Y
is
is
X
is
3%
0. inch.
Page Thirtyfour
inches.
3%
inches. inch. Draw the crease line 1320 31. 20 to 21 is the same width as top of back
line C.
M
Draw
to R.
Q T
R,
which
to
%
finishes
is
K
1/6 of 19.
which comes Ya inch line Xll, the neck. Square line 222327. 2726 is Ya inch. Shape the back 2326. 23 to 24 is \Ya inches, the stand. 24 to 25 is y2 inch. 25 to 26 is 3 inches. line 2322,
%
W.
1/6 of 19 plus 1 inch.
%
28
X
IV2 inches.
line
.to
12.
Square down from 2123.
2/3 of 19 from D.
to
11
21 to 23
V
Draw
to 11 is 14 of 19.
to A.
is
V
19.
X
8 to 13 is to 20 is
to
is
of.
line.
completes the forepart.
THE FOREPART Square up from
gives us the center
Shape the neck, lapel front and bottom, which
the back.
U U
it
THE COLLAR
inch. the side seam
is
making
at the back.
%
Square out from 10 to
inch.
P to Q is 3A inch. Draw line OQ. S to
%
9 to 10 is
inches.
1/12 of 19.
is
2% inches. 1% inches, which
23,
inch.
Square up from M to N. O is half wav between N and
P
is is
inch below the waist Square 161718.
Draw line AK. D to L is 1/3 of 19. L to M is 2 inches.
M to
inches.
is 3 4
17
% inch. % inch.
is
2%
to 9 and down from 7 to 14. the button stand. 7 to 8 is 3 inches or Square down from 8 to 15.
is
J
to
is
Take out YÂą inch at point Q. Then shape the side seam QS the same length as the side seam 5 is 19 inches from line AH.
Square up from 7
Shape the center seam AHI.
A
2 to 25
line.
Square out from points ABCDEFG.
G
Shape the shoulder and armhole XY and YQ.
5 to 6 6 to 7
THE DRAFT
E
XX
below
28 to 30 is inch. Shape the bottom of collar 231130. Draw the brake 2422 and 2511. Shape the outside line 2630, which completes the draft.
Diagram
XX
Page
Thirtyfive
;
Mackinaw
Military Collar
Diagram XXI draft THIS tual breast
made
11
measure.
Draw
3 inches larger than acIt is drafted a size still larger for the better grade goods for cheaper make two sizes will do, similar to the shawl collar draft, as explained in a previous is
;
diagram. Measurements length, 34 inches
:
Breast
size,
38 inches
Draw
A A A A A
line MACBDEF. to is inch. to C is y4 of 21. to B is y2 of 21. to is 17% inches. to E is 24 inches. to F is the full length, or 34 inches.
A
%
D
Square out from points MACBDEF.
F to G is 1V4 inches. Draw line AG. A to L is 1/6 of 21 plus
Y% inch. to M. L to is 1% inches. B to I is 1/3 of 20y2 plus 2 inches. Square up from I to J.
Square up from
M
I;
P is halfway between S and Draw line NP. I
to
Q
is
to
H
1/12 of 21.
is
%
K to O Draw
is
H
to K.
is
2/3 of
20y2
plus
Square up from T to U.
U
to
V
is
1%
%
inches.
inch. 1/6 of 20y2 plus of shoulder Y± inch at V.
Drop point
Page Thirtysix
Y± inch at point R. Y± inch. 6 is 2y2 inches from line HK. is
%
Shape the sideseam R467 and make it inch longer than RO. is y2 of breast, or 20y2 inches from line
W W to X
MG.
2y2 inches. 2 inches. Square up from Y to 1 and down from to 17. 1 to 2 is 1/6 of 20y2 V to 3 is y4 of 2oy2 Shape the gorge and front, V391516. Sweep from point V7 to 17. Draw line 1716. Shape the bottom, as illustrated, which completes the forepart.
X
to
Y
is
is
Y
.
.
THE COLLAR
%
iy± inches.
line
T
Take out
line 1234. to 2 is iy2 inches. 2 to 3 is 8y2 inches. inch. 3 to 4 is
THE FOREPART to
1013R.
1
R0. Shape the bottom, G0. For a whole back take off Yi inch on line MG.
B
to 10 is Yk inch less than N to P. Shape the shoulder 10V and the armhole
Draw
inch.
Square down from
S.
The collar for a size 38 should measure 15y2 inches. The undercollar should be drafted 1 inch larger, making it measure finished 16y2 inches.
J.
Q to R is 3/4 inch, Draw line PR. I
way between P and
line Vll.
V
4 to 5
DRAFT
M
half
is
Square down from points
1234.
3 to 6 is 1/12 of 20y2 6 to 7 is iy2 inches. 7 to 8 is 3y± inches. Square out from 8 to 10. 2 to 5 is lYi inches. Draw lines 62 and 75. 5 to 9 is 3 inches. .
Shape the bottom, which completes the
89, and collar.
the front, 952,
Diagram XXI Page Thirtyseven
Stout
Mackinaw
Diagram XXII
HEREWITH
is illustrated a draft for a size 42 stout mackinaw. This coat is drafted on a basis of two sizes larger than the stout sack. The same rule applies to the distribution of fat as is explained for the regular stout sack coat. For a cheap grade of goods, the vee can be split similar to the stout work
coat.
Page Thirtyeight
Diagram XXII
Page ThirtyNine
Shawl
Collar
Mackinaw Raglan Sleeve Diagram XXIII
sleeve can used drafting THEbe method applied overcoats. The draft made this
in
to
is
than the sack coat. Every point should be studied and memorized. Measurements: Breast size 36; length 33 inches.
two
sizes larger
8 to 9 is 10 inches.
Sweep from
point. 7,
using 715 as a radius to
establish point 10.
Draw
line 1510.
Shape the gorge, lapel and front and bottom, which completes the forepart.
THE DRAFT Draw
A B B B B B
to to to to to to
THE SLEEVE
ABCDEFG.
line
% inch. V4 of 20. D is % of 20.
B
is
C
is
E F
is
X
to 12 12 to 40
inches. is 24 inches. G is 33 inches, full length of coat. Square out from points ABCDEFG. is 1% inches. G to
Draw S.
X X
K
to T.
Draw plus 1 inch.
inch.
Square out from 24 to 29
Shape the sideseam TMN, which completes
5 to 7
Draw
Draw
is 8/4
incn. line 712.
Draw Draw
M
V
Shape the sideseam P1315, making it inch more than TN. D to Y is 19 inches. Y to Z is SV2 inches. Z to 3 is 2V2 inches, x/2 of button stand.
%
Square up from 3 to 6 and down from 3 to
10.
1/6 of 19.
is
Draw
line 48.
Page Forty
line 23 to 29.
inches.
is is
30.
1% inches. y2 inch.
lines 3440
point 33.
Shape the armhole 712P. Take y4 inch at point T.
6 to 8
7y4
using point 32 as a pivot. Take the distance 127 and make an arch, using point 12 as the pivot, intersecting at
7.
to 13 is 1/0 y2 inch. to 14 is 2V2 inches. Draw line 1315.
%
and 4030. Shape the inseam line 353237. Take the distance 127 and make an arch,
1/6 of 19 plus V2 inch.
Square down from 5 to
is
Square down from 29 to 29 to 30 20 to 39
THE FOREPART D to X is 2/3 of 19 plus 1% inches. Square up from X to 4. is
is 1
inch.
the back.
4 to 5
X
to 23. inch. is lyj inches. is iy4 inches. lines 2125 and 2226, hollowing out
23 to 24 24 to 25 24 to 26
KMN.
is i
line
line 3532. to 21 is iy4 inches. to 22 is iy4 inches.
Square down from
Q
Draw
line 3440.
Draw
to J is 1/3 of 19 plus 2 inches. Square up from J to O. Draw line 3P. is 1/12 of 20. J to
J to
inches. of 19.
32 is half way between 31 and 40. 34 to 35 is 1 inch.
D
Q Q to T is 1 incn. Draw line ST. L to M is 1/3 of 20
V2
Take the distance US and make an arch, using 40 as a center. These two arches intersect at point 34.
20.
Square out from
iy4
radius.
H
Square up from R to R to S is IV2 inches.
is
Square down from 40 to 20. Make an arch from point U, using US as a
17%
Draw line BH. B to R is 1/6 of
is
line 3332. line 3336.
33 to 36 is 1 inch. Shape the front part of sleeve 361221. Shape the inseam 3338, which completes the top sleeve.
UNDER SLEEVE 40 to 17
Draw Shape
Draw draft.
%
inch. is line 1730. line 17W. the bottom 3026,
which completes the
Diagram XXIII
Page Fortyone
Making Longs and Shorts From Regular Block XXIV
Diagram
MAKING trated 6
ft.
Longs and Shorts from the Normal Block Pattern. The changes herein illusmade from the normal block pattern, which is figured on a basis of 5 ft. 8 in. The short is figured for a 5 ft. 4 in. in height and the long is figured for a
are in height. in height.
Draw
BACK.
BACDEFGH
the normal, 5
is
ft.
8 in.
To raise the height to 6 feet give V2 inch from B to 1 and A to 2. From C to 3 on point of shoulder give y4 inch or y> the distance that the height
is
every inch in height the man is above the normal. Lengthen the coat from F to 6 and G to 7 two inches. (This amount can vary according to the style, but it should always be at least 1 inch longer than the normal.) For the short, that is to lower the height to a 5 ft. 4, you will note that from A to 9 and B to 10 are V2 inch each; from C to 8 inch. ("This is practically the same as the long, only the change is made in the opposite direction.) Shorten the waistline as indicated from E to H and H to 12, which are 1 inch each. Shorten the garment from F to 13 and G to 14, which are 1 inch each.
%
To make
a long or a 6foot
draw
line LN17 shoulder point.
to 17 is V2 inch. 18 is inch. to 19 is y4 inch.
M to
Reshape the shoulder and gorge as
Page Fortytwo
to 20
and T
R
to 22
and S
XX
XX
to 27
and
to 28.
To make a short 5 foot 4 you do the opposite across the shoulder and neck as in the long. N to 31 is y2 inch. to 32 is y4 inch. to 34 is y4 inch. Reshape the shoulder and the gorge and the
M
armhole 832. Shorten the waist
1
inch from
Q
to 35
and T
inch from
R
to 37
and S
to 36.
Shorten the coat
1
to 38.
y2
Reshape the sideseam and raise the pocket inch from XX to 41 and XX to 42.
SLEEVE. long, add y4 inch shape the ball of sleeve.
For
1
from
V
to 24
inch from
Y
and
to 25
re
and
26.
Reshape the outside seam. For a short, take off y4 inch from
V to 30 and reshape the ball of sleeve W30L. Shorten sleeve 1 inch from Y to 39 and Z to 40.
%
trated.
of coat from which are 2 inches each. Reshape the sideseam. Lower the pocket y> inch from
the normal forepart, 5 feet
from armhole notch through
N
Lower the length
Z to
8 inches.
Q
to 23,
Lengthen the sleeve
FOREPART. is
inch from
1
to 21.
raised
from A to 2. At the waistline lower 1 inch from E to 4 and H to 5. This amount is exactly y4 inch for
LMNOPQRSTU
line L18.
Lower the waist
Reshape the sideseam. For all heights for every inch over or under illus
ft. 8 in., the normal, lengthen or shorten the sleeve y4 inch as the case may be.
5
Diagram
XXIV
Page Fortythree
MailOrder Changes HE
following diagrams explain in detail varying changes used in mail order houses. These changes are made to one degree, or Vi inch on square and sloping shoulders and on stooping and erect forms. The same principle applies to the various degrees from J4 to
T
%
3
4
inch.
1
to 5 is
Reshape
SLEEVE
%
inch. the ball of sleeve.
DIAGRAM C Making a stoop from the normal
block.
BACK Swing
in the
back as illustrated.
%
H
to 9 and G to 8 is inch. to 10 is *4 inch. J to 11 is inch. Reshape the back as illustrated. I
%
FOREPART Swing the forepart forward
%
of an inch,
using the notch of armhole as a pivot. A to 3 and 2 to 3 is inch each. B to 4 is inch. Reshape shoulder front and armhole.
%
%
Diagram
A
DIAGRAM A Making
a square shoulder
from the normal
block.
BACK
A G
to 1 and to 3 is
B
%
to 2 is Vs inch. inch.
Reshape the neck and shoulder.
FOREPART E
D
to 5 is to 4 is
% V
1/4 4
inch, inch.
Reshape the shoulder.
Diagram B
SLEEVE 6 to 7
is
}4 inch. ball of sleeve.
DIAGRAM D
Reshape the
Making an erect from the normal block. The change is made the opposite from the
DIAGRAM B
T HESE diagramsfromshow hownormalmake to
ing shoulder
the
a slopblock.
BACK F
to 6 is Vi inch.
Reshape the shoulder.
stoop.
H F
A
and G to to inch. to 6 is
%
Reshape the back.
FOREPART B C
D
to 2 is Vi inch. to 3 is 14 inch. to 4 is 14 inch.
Reshape the shoulder and armhole. Page Fortyfour
BACK H is % inch
FOREPART
A to B
3
and 3
to 5 is
to 4 is
%.
Reshape the
front.
%.
each.
Diagram
D
MAKING A WIDE BACK diagram illustrates the change make THIS in making a back % inch wider than the I
normal block pattern.
A B C
to 1 is 3/4 inch. to 2 is 1 inch. inch. to 3 is
%
Reshape the back as indicated by the dotted lines.
FOREPART G D
to 7 is to 4 is
V2
%
inch. inch.
%
Extend the forepart at front inch as illustrated by the dotted lines. Reshape the shoulder and armhole, making the shoulder to correspond with the shoulder of back. 3 to 6 is inch. Reshape the sideseam.
%
SLEEVES
%
Take inch off head of top sleeve, as illustrated by dotted line. Then hollow out under sleeve Yx inch, as illustrated by line LF.
Making
A Wide Back [Mail Order Changes, Continued on Next Page]
Page Fortyfive
DIAGRAM E Making
a long
and short neck.
BACK
%
and H to S is inch each. and H to T is x/4 inch each. Reshape the neck and shoulder. to to
U V
FOREPART Draw
line
CA from notch through shoulder
point. to I to
and A to J is % inch each. and to L is *4 inch each. Reshape shoulder and neck.
A
M
Diagram E
Making
A
Box Back From
A Regular Sack
Coat
BACK
FOREPART From
18 to 19
the bottom.
Page Fortysix
is 1
Measure
inch. Draw line 212019 so as to make the side seam straight. Reshape side seams so that they are equal in length, which completes the change.
Men's and Boys' Proportions X?*K
'If
Hf
in
*Jf
<V
w/n dnddj^
in
^N
o
ON
ON
W
\N
O
\n
Moo *lf Cv
<*\«
<v 'oloo
t\eo
'V>*5
v0 CM
isip/n
to cm
iseajq
10 cv
to cv
CV
i
*0
NO
no CV
l
It
CV
to
IN
loo
CO
On <V IN
CV
t^ CV
cv
*o CV cv
cv
IN
tO cv Ml*
301/
X™N f dsiu
vO
Ml*
I*
^O
w ON
On
*>i*
loo
00
lot
cv
0 CV
CV cv
to
tfJ0
*
to
to
vO
if
•W «lf
IN
In
to
cv
4f In
Hf nO UO
cv
CV
to Cv
Wn "olco
to
to
In
if
CO c\*
cv
•If cv to
o
<ooo
CM
If
"15 IN
Ml*
IN
cm (V
cm
^loo
loe
to
to
CO
ON
I JO
nI/o
>o
mT* ley in in to to to to to to to to in In to
O
to to
cm
cm
CM to
to
to
to to to to to
to
o
90 ex
o
to
SO
CM
to
In
K
IN «o/*
Ml*
lO
ON On
vO
IN o O o
to
CO CO ON ON
c* to
o
o
cv
*o
K
in
if*
GO
•o
<M
cv
In
t?
r\
<3
cv
Cv
IM
o
N
to
tico
bn
IN
c\*
Jolt©
vO
I*
•ol*
IN to
JO
IN
tolf
IN
to
bo
cv cv
CV
^
*lf
hQ3
Cv
CV
or*0
03
to
to cv
Moo
00 90 o\ Ox
to
<0
CV
CS2
in
HN
In *lf
IN
00
n S
to
Mf
to
IN
in
^
o o
co
D*
In
to
to
IN
MN in »lf
Hf
In*
2$
o
Ml*.
CO PO 90
M lf if Mf I* Ml* to
JO
MQ0
Ml*
If 00
IN Ml*
CO
CO
Os
ON
loo
«
MJCO IN
IN
ON
01
ihO WVZSVf dnddfS CO
£7 Dnda/S
If
IV
cv
1* K!
MC0
CO
O
to
to
o •>(oeg_fo
ISIP/T}
Sp^g
I*
to
to
GO
CO
ioe
to
to
to to
J*
Ml*
M4
to
to
to
to
io
ioio
K
IvO
rvo
If*
HIP'm
^9 9
Ml*
SN
lot
to
z
I
CV
K
s
t>
o
r
CO
On
to
to
to
to I*
CO
CO
oo CO 00 00 00 90 90
I*
If*
Ml*
ileo
to to
to to
to to
to to
to
to
to
to
to
loo
mco
If*
If*
if*
if*
If*
CV to
<V to
cv
cv
to
cv to
cv
to
cv to
to
to
100
If
Joloo
to
^
CN;
If*
to
to
to
to to to
to
to
to
CO
CNZ
^
In ^co
O
tv.
to
CO ON to to
¥
to
CO 00
IN Mlf NO
o
to
IN M*
to
o
t>co
loo
">lco
00 CO
CO CO
ON
CN
00
M<o
—I'M
«O0O
^0/03
90
CO
CO
00
If
t\
CO
co 90
to
^ ^
*
I* IN
Ml*
00 to
ON to
3
o
to
00
cv
oo
o
If*
»o
to
^ ^
00
to
o
to to Page Fortyseven
— Seek Knowledge
f
Empty Your Purse Into Your Brains
—Buy 117HEN
you are
Books

doubt as to
I
grading patterns and haven't the time to figure it out for yourself; when you want the snappiest
§ 1
in
™™
and most
designs in
stylish salable
I
sack coats, overcoats, vests, pants, cotton
garments, etc., or some necessary bit of information slips out of your memory, then it is that these text books demonstrate their worth.
 I 1 1
"Grading Book" $15.00;
"Designing Sack Coats and Vests" $15.00; "De"Designing Pants" $10.00; "Drafting Cotton "Men's, Women's and Boys' Proportion Book" $2.00
signing Overcoats" $15.00;
Garments" $10.00;
P ro P° r f^£(*xw CI
Book FREE to purchasers of one made those purchasing the
^ g
Ck»%^^»C*»l Wf'VWUl
I
THE CLOTHING DESIGNER
V^I. 1
•
>n
t'i(
Discounts will be
or
more
of the text books.
Liberal
entire set of Books.
CO. 70 Fifth Ave.,
^AlllllillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllM
New York
.Niiillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllilll!
Are You Equipped
To Win We
Success ?
teach pattern drafting, grading
Patterns with a "Punch" We Supply Hundreds of Manufacturers Continually.
Why Not You?
and designing. Personal instruction or mail courses.
Earn while you
learn,
not
it
being
necessary to give up working hours to study.
We
have special courses
men and
designers
who
for drafts
desire to "brush
up.
Our twenty in
different
courses
woolen, worsted, work and
take cotton
garment trades. Write for
All kinds of patterns used
by woolen, worsted, work and cotton garment manufacturers sup
literature, etc.
Harry Simons Designing Studio 70
Fifth
Avenue
New
York, N. Y.
plied
on short
notice.
The Clothing Designer Co. 70
Fifth
Avenue,
New
York, N. Y.
= p I
â€¢'.)'\
'
;,;;::;' ;
:,;':
\:
:5.
:;
.
de;"
.
'
.^;^
'.'"
'.."
:*
.
:';
'
,':
.
..
!& ,...V:.,.
"'' '.'
:: ^:v:/:, '.

:.'
.