Michelle Pons Foguet BA Fashion Marketing & Communication Level 5, 2015-2016 Representation Techniques 2, MIED 506 Computer Tools 2, CWK4 Nicolas Godon
INDEX ABOUT YVES SAINT LAURENT pg. 4
EDITORIAL pg. 20
REFERENCES pg. 50
MINI-SITE pg. 36
CATALOGUE pg. 30
ABOUT YSL MARKET, POSITION, OBJECTIVES
Above is Yves Saint Laurent, who founded the iconic French fashion house in 1961; which is today part of the Kering Group. Despite his controversial and troubled lifestyle, he managed to build an empire together with his companion and business partner Pierre BergĂŠ.
Yves Saint Laurent, now Saint Laurent, is
Council of Fashion Designers of America
a French luxury fashion house initiated
and created many iconic pieces like Le
in 1961 by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre
Smoking, safari jackets and flying suits.
BergĂŠ. YSL established his first Rive
He admired women and aimed to em-
Gauche boutiques in 1966 and became
power them through his designs all the
widely recognized for being the pioneer
way until his death from brain cancer in
designer to use models from ethnic mi-
2008 (Thebiographychannel.co.uk, n.d.).
norities during his runways shows. Although he had a controversial life
After the arrival of the last Creative Di-
linked to heavy drinking and frequent
rector, Hedi Slimane in 2012, the brand
use of drugs, Saint Laurentâ€™s talent was
has undergone a significant and heat-
evident and in 1983 he was the first
ed rebranding initiated by a change in
designer to be given a solo exhibition at
name, dropping the Yves, and establish-
the Metropolitan Museum of Art while
ing a strong relationship with the under-
still alive. In addition he was awarded
ground music industry.
a Lifetime Achievement award by The
BRAND PROFILE INFORMATION
Currently, Saint Laurent belongs to Kering Group (previously PPR) and operates 128 stores around the world as well as an e-commerce website. They have an average of 1,712 employees and in 2014 estimated a revenue of 707 millions of euros, which is more than double of that of three years ago; despite the economic recession. The company specializes in men’s and women’s ready-to-wear as well as handbags, shoes, accessories, jewellery, fragrances and cosmetics – licensed to L’Oreal- and sunglasses.
POSITIONING MARKET SITUATION
Saint Laurent operates in a very competitive market with many players aiming to take advantage of the Luxury Goods industry. Also, because of itâ€™s legacy it can be compared to brands like Chanel or Prada; but due to their modern edginess together with price point they can also be placed parallel to others similar to Versace and Alexander Wang. Considering that Saint Laurent belongs to Kering, their biggest competitor is LVMH group, which is significantly larger; and whose star company is Louis Vuitton. In addition, within the Kering group Saint Laurent finds a direct competitor, which is not a very common scenario, and is the star brand of this group; Gucci.
After four incredibly successful years
But who is Anthony Vaccarello? Vacca-
under Slimane’s guidance, he recently
rello was born in Brusels to Italian par-
announced that he is parting ways with
ents and is currently 36 years old. He
the fashion house. This shook the entire
studied at the prestigious Brussels de-
fashion world after it was a most unex-
sign school la Cambre and won a Grand
pected move, especially due to his con-
Prix for his graduate collection present-
tributions to the company.
ed at the Hyères Festival in Côte d’Azur
SITUATION NOW CURRENT EVENTS
in 2006. From there he started working After much speculation, Anthony Vac-
at Fendi with Karl Lagerfeld until he de-
and very revealing pieces fit for super
carello was appointed the job of substi-
veloped his own label in 2009.
models like his close friend Anja Rubik.
tuting Hedi Slimane. This is an incredibly
His arrival will definitely produce sig-
tough task, as taking on a brand that has
He also became the creative head of
nificant changes in the brand and it is
been growing so much in the past years
Versus Versace in 2015, a role he has
this briefs purpose to show how they
proves to be a challenge. He will have to
dropped after announcing his move to
could develop to correctly integrate
deal with the intense pressure of main-
Saint Laurent. He has a taste for very
with the direction the brand has taken
taining growth and earnings.
sexy collections featuring high leg slits
these past years (Schneier, 2016).
The new spin on Saint Laurent’s path should be to drastically incorporate Vacarello’s sexiness, erotism and sensuality into the consolidated image the brand has established. It would be a mistake to completely break down Slimane’s achievements these past years and attempt to “start over” with the brand. Slimane managed to resurface a company that had been struggling for years in finding the balance with their heritage and innovation. Past creative
approaches either forgot about the brand’s history which is a very strong differentiator from competitors, or stuck so much to the past that forgot about the present. The balance has now been found by brining Yves’ vision and daring ideas into the 21st century. All of this has been built on a very strong and consolidated brand aesthetic. However, this aesthetic is very edgy, grunge, rock n roll and tied to underground music movements. When Hedi Slimane gave sexual
tints to his collections, he did so in a very aggressive manner by ripping tights, shortening skirts and using nets as transparencies. Instead, Vacarello is much more delicate with his execution and materials despite the final result being incredibly daring and even scandalous to some. The combination of the grungy looks with this more refined sexuality could prove to be an evolution for the fashion house and satisfy the public who so gladly has accepted Slimane.
THE MESSAGE COMMUNICATION TASK
Saint Laurent is a brand that targets both men and women aged 20 to 35. However, they have another segment of consumers whom are aged 40 and above who are long-term loyal clients that have followed the brand from years prior. Their main target though, closely follows fashion trends and they are quite young. They invest their money in luxury clothing and accessories in order to increase their social status. Their purchases aren’t driven by the price, although there are some people from other social classes that do buy some of the brands “entry level” products based on their low price (cosmetics, perfumes, wallets etc) (Studd, n.d.). The income level of these people is high, as they belong to the upper classes and have and education of a Bachelor or above. They belong to the fashion industry, or the celebrity amosphere, or they are wealthy students, or they have jobs in marketing, business, communication, law etc. They are early adopters of fashion trends purchasing from brands like Versace, Dolce Gahanna, Dior, Celine etc. They enjoy being social, partying, traveling, visiting art expositions, attending events, going to concerts and festivals, eating out, playing sports like tennis or skiing etc.Usually they reside in urban areas of cosmopolitan cities like London, Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Berlin, Amsterdam, New York, Los Angeles etc. Additionally, they have high incomes of about 90,000€ (Zhang, 2014).
OBJECTIVES FUTURE EXPECTATIONS
The objective of the brief is to have Saint Laurent continue its growth in the coming years. After the incredible success that the brand has had since Slimane’s take over, the momentum has to be maintained. Therefore, in order to ensure continued growth it is necessary to not drift away from the bases set by Hedi Slimane. The name should remain the same, as well as the branding and overall style. But in order to incorporate Vaccarello’s point of view, Saint Laurent will become more sensual and provocative. The stir that was generate upon Slimane’s arrival and his changes, has now pretty much worn off. So in order to give the brand further propulsion forward, it is necessary to incorporate this erotic motif in line with its current links to music and underground culture, to further provoke and challenge the fashion system. This is also in line with Yves Saint Laurent’s vision of empowering women by giving them clothing pieces like Le Smoking. Vacarello does so differently, through a process of admiration and liberation of the female body with minimum clothing. In this way, the final result should be a continued and stable growth of the brand through the following collection presented this October, the Spring/Summer 2017 one.
EDITORIAL CASTING, STYLING, MAKEUP, HAIR
The editorial part of this brief will focus on exploring different locations, stylings, makeup, models, poses and types of pictures that would best suit the new image intended to project by Saint Laurent.
MAIN IDEA The idea for this editorial is to project the fusion of the Slimane Saint Laurent era, and the new Vaccarello one, with the brandâ€™s heritage. Therefore the basic idea is to have the shoot revolve around punk, sexuality and a classic background. The idea is to use intense brush strokes accross the pictures as a punk aesthetic in contrast to the very classic environment and sensual clothing.
PHOTOGRAPHY The photographs should be in black and white to follow the overall aesthetic of Saint Laurent. Also, there will be drawn lines on the modelâ€™s faces or bodies to further enhance this sensuality and erotism. All of the clothes would evidently be from the new collection by Vaccarello for Saint Laurent and the architecture in the back would also have a certain importance.
CASTING The models would follow the overall look that Saint Laurent girls have had up until now. They are very tall, skinny, and have a dark attitude. They will portray a different kind of sexy, not the usual voluptuousness we are used to. The makeup will also be quite simple but grungy and will display this attitude.
LOCATION PLACE PALACE OF VERSAILLES
PHOTOSHOOT SAMPLE EDITORIAL
Model Mery Livesting Hair Laura Bey Make-up Maria McSean Jacket by Saint Laurent; Shoes by Saint Laurent.
Model Kate Crimson Hair Laura Bey Make-up Maria McSean Dress by Saint Laurent; Shoes by Saint Laurent.
Model Lexi Padd Hair Laura Bey Make-up Maria McSean Dress by Saint Laurent; Necklace by Cartier; Shoes by Saint Laurent.
CATALOGUE SPRING/SUMMER ‘17 COLLECTION
This catalogue is a sample of what the first collection by Vaccarello for Saint Laurent Paris would look like. The first show he will present will take place this following October 2016 in Paris Fashion Week.
Saint Laurent silk long flared pants with layers
Saint Laurent premium leather jacket with studs
Saint Laurent leather leggings, snug fitting and
for a casual look.
and embellishments for a punk-rock attitude.
Saint Laurent black lingerie-like silk dress with
Saint Laurent simple little black dress with cut
Saint Laurent festival edition long crochet top
out back made of silk.
made of the finest wool.
Saint Laurent festival edition short dress with
Saint Laurent feet-length silk dress with open
Saint Laurent limited edition long dress with slit
silk printed sleves and high wasted cotton skirt.
back and pleats.
leg, plunging neckline and high shoulders.
Saint Laurent black mini body-con patterned
Saint Laurent leather studded high-waisted
Saint Laurent short romper with deep neckline,
pockets and big buttons.
MINI-SITE S/S ‘17 WEBSITE
This mini-site takes its inspiration from the main Saint Laurent website, in order to provide a coherent image. It offer exclusive content, videos and behind the scenes; as well as direct sales of the new collection.
MAIN WEBSITE ysl.com
S/S â€˜17 MINI-SITE saintlaurentminisiteblog.wordpress.com
REFERENCES IMAGES, INFORMATION & INSPIRATION
MAIN LAYOUT INSPIRATION Behance.net. (n.d.). Behance. [online] Available at: https://www.behance.net/gallery/Minimal-Catalog-32-Pages/12073321 [Accessed 24 May 2016].
INFORMATION Kering Activity Report. (2014). 1st ed. [ebook] Available at: http://www.kering.com/sites/default/files/ra2014_kering_en.pdf [Accessed 9 May 2016]. Schneier, M. (2016). Who is Anthony Vaccarello, the New Designer of Yves Saint Laurent?. [online] Nytimes.com. Available at: http://www.nytimes. com/2016/04/07/fashion/anthony-vaccarello-yves-saint-laurent.html?_r=0 [Accessed 12 May 2016]. Studd, C. (n.d.). Saint Laurent Paris. 1st ed. [ebook] Available at: https://chloestudd.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/saintlaurentparisbrieffinalpdf.pdf [Accessed 10 May 2016]. Thebiographychannel.co.uk, (n.d.). Yves Saint Laurent - Biography. [online] Available at: http://www.thebiographychannel.co.uk/biographies/yves-saint-laurent.html [Accessed 6 May 2016]. Zhang, D. (2014). Saint Laurent Strategic Marketing Audit. [online] Issuu. Available at: https://issuu.com/feifeifeiwu/docs/saint_laurent_strategic_audit_11_ ma [Accessed 11 May 2016].
IMAGES Catalogue Pictures. (2016). [image] Available at: http://www.nastygal.com/clothes?page=3&seg=5 [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Editorial Title. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QqFkmE7VfnA/VYE8runjy2I/AAAAAAADWWE/Gto7QvAIJAM/s1600/Jeff_Stephens_ Photo_Shoot_Aurelia_Gliwski%2B%25284%2529.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Francina Models, (2016). Model 1. [image] Available at: http://francinamodels.com/en/model/woman/unique/1514-vita-west# [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Francina Models, (2016). Model 2. [image] Available at: http://francinamodels.com/en/model/woman/development/244-ashley-hanson# [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Francina Models, (2016). Model 3. [image] Available at: http://francinamodels.com/en/model/woman/development/1909-charlotte-mingay# [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Glamour, (2015). Communication Task 4. [image] Available at: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Ellie-Goulding-Glamour-UK-November-2015.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016].
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Saint Laurent, (2013). Communication Task 3. [image] Available at: http://blog.lelouvre.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Saint_Laurent_spring_summer_2013_campaign56.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Saint Laurent, (2013). Communication Task 12. [image] Available at: http://www.whoknowsfashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Saint-Laurent-paris-womenswear-spring-summer-2013-ad-campaign-glamour-boys-inc-05.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Saint Laurent, (2013). Daft Punk. [image] Available at: http://cdn.thedailybeast.com/content/dailybeast/articles/2013/04/15/daft-punk-reportedly-modelsfor-saint-laurent-cond-nast-college-is-in-session/jcr:content/body/inlineimage.img.2000.jpg/1366045271767.cached.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Saint Laurent, (2013). Marylin Manson. [image] Available at: http://media.glamour.com/photos/56965d6616d0dc3747eff1e1/master/pass/fashion-201304-marilyn-manson-saint-laurent-main.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Saint Laurent, (2013). Spring Summer 2013. [image] Available at: http://www.thefashionisto.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/saint-laurent-spring-summer-2014-campaign-jeff-fribourg.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Saint Laurent, (2013). YSL Image. [image] Available at: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ae2pwFTW_E8/maxresdefault.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Saint Laurent, (2014). Situation Now. [image] Available at: http://www.journaldesfemmes.com/mode/yves-saint-laurent/ [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Saint Laurent, (2015). Brand Profile. [image] Available at: http://www.journaldesfemmes.com/mode/yves-saint-laurent/ [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Saint Laurent, (2015). Editorial. [image] Available at: http://cdn3.yoox.biz/ysl/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/SLIDESHOW_PREFALL_38.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Saint Laurent, (2015). Editorial Explanaition. [image] Available at: http://cdn3.yoox.biz/ysl/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/SLIDESHOW_PREFALL_37.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Saint Laurent, (2015). Editorial Explanation. [image] Available at: http://cdn3.yoox.biz/ysl/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/1210x905_UNIVERSITE_PERMANENT_01.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Saint Laurent, (n.d.). Positioning Second. [image] Available at: http://www.radicaltrend.co/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/01.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Studd, C. (n.d.). Positioning Map. [image] Available at: https://chloestudd.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/marketingplanfinal1.pdf [Accessed 7 May 2016]. Styling 1. (2014). [image] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/0f/4e/04/0f4e040fb5f29012b2d7965c680cc513.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016].
Styling 3. (2015). [image] Available at: https://designandculturebyed.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/20130227-084036-pm.jpg [Accessed 21 May 2016]. Target Woman. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://maddygee.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/tumblr_ncoe9kqffl1s8rlzuo1_1280.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. You Made Me Like You, (n.d.). Positioning 3. [image] Available at: https://youmademelikeyou.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/37.jpg [Accessed 24 May 2016]. Yves Saint Laurent, founder of the iconic French fashion house in 1961. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://blogs-images.forbes.com/kristintablang/ files/2015/07/Yves-Saint-Laurent.jpeg [Accessed 24 May 2016].