6 Pancras Square, King’s Cross, London N1C 4AG
DRAKE & MORGAN T
he redevelopment around King’s Cross just gets better and better. When you exit the station towards Pancras Road, there is a pedestrian walkway up to brand new Pancras Square, complete with gardens, water feature and (surprise!) places to eat and drink!!! This is a London version of a New York restaurant. Huge! Neo warehouse in style, it sprawls over two floors, with an open kitchen, mega-bar and perhaps the most amazing array of chairs and banquettes known to man. Add a year round terrace spanning the length of the square and it is an impressive space. Our waiter won me over right away by announcing that the steak tartare and aubergine lasagne were not available. It is always so irritating to get one’s heart set on something only to be told it is sold out. So I set my heart on short rib and mushroom pot pie only to be told it was sold out! Note to kitchen: when there are only a few
pies left, give them to one waiter. Alternatively, make more pies! Note to waiter: you were flawless all night! Crab fritters with sweet corn and chili (£6.95) were more fritter than crab. Crunchy and satisfying nonetheless, with an interesting dip (citrus peel glaze?). Seared rare tuna with sesame and ginger (£7.95) was flavorful, balanced and well presented. The best dish of the night. With the starters we had a very large glass of Chablis, Prieuré St Côme, 2014 (£10.50) and a Sancerre, Lucien Crochet, 2013 (£10.95). The Chablis was surprisingly onedimensional for the price. Tart. The Sancerre was much rounder with hints of peach. Great with the tuna. These were from the high end of the wine list which is well balanced both in price and range. Bottles from £16 – 40. Pork belly with peach BBQ (£11.50) was tender and flavorful, the peach a nice addition. Duck
Reviewed by Michael M Sandwick breast with chili glaze (£13.95) was tasty, but promised pink and served medium-well. Buttered spinach (£3.95) and excellent sweet potato fries (£4.50) rounded out the meal. 2 more very large glasses of wine washed it all down. A dark and spicy Malbec, Obra Prima Reserva, Familia Cassone, 2011 (£11.70) and a light and fruity Brouilly “Corentin”, Domaine Laurent Martray, 2013 (£12). Completely different in character, they were both excellent wines, again from the high end. BBQ pineapple with coconut sorbet and passion fruit (£5.95) was a good combination though the unripened pineapple needed more sugar. Salted chocolate caramel tart (£5.95) is a dessert after my own heart. Sweet, salt and chocolate is pure delight. Downstairs has a wonderful lounge feel, with intimate seating and a second bar. There’s private rooms for hire, mixology classes and that terrace. A space to watch!