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OPSO I have always enjoyed sharing food. Happily, it has become a trend amongst fashionable foodies (FF’s). “Socials” are the new rage and OPSO, “social food” is the latest, serving up Greek cuisine in the style of tapas. Fashionable foodie fusion (FFF). The place is simple in spite of its glam location in the heart of Marylebone. Light and airy, à la Greek taverna, with wooden tables and chairs, both in, out and in the basement. There is also a long communal table with barstools for those who wish to share with strangers. The staff is super friendly, reminding me of why I used to love holidays in Greece which in turn reminded me that it was time for a cocktail! An OPSO G&T (£8) distinguished itself with the addition of orange peel and Mastiha, a liqueur made from resin. Sweet and bitter, it changed the drink completely, in a most enjoyable way. A grape republic (£8) with Tsipouro (a spirit made from grape pomace), lychee and lemon was great looking but too sweet for me.
32 July 2015
Reviewed by Michael M Sandwick
Opso is Greek for “delectable morsel of food” of which the menu offers a wide variety. Choosing is a dilemma. 5 dishes per couple is the recommendation. We ended up with: Dakos (olive oil rusks) cherry tomatoes, capers, red onion, olives and feta (£7). This is the kind of simple dish the Greeks do so well. Fresh, delicious too, the best feta I have ever tasted. Creamier and less salty than the usual. Happily we had more of it in another salad of black eyed peas, cherry tomatoes and a wonderful sausage (£7), a combination that worked well together. So well in fact, I had to remind my guest about the sharing concept! Mushroom velouté “cappuccino” with truffled froth and rye sugar (£3) was the highlight of the evening for me. Delectable indeed. Creamy, smooth essence of mushroom topped with foam. Don’t share this one! Fried smoked Metsovone cheese with rhubarb jam (£7) would have been better had I eaten it while it
Mini fish burger in Squid ink bun
10 Paddington Street, London W1U 5QL www.opso.co.uk
was hot. The dishes all came out so quickly that I didn’t get to it until it was cold. I would have enjoyed the meal much more if the pace had been slower so we could savour each dish. Instead, we found ourselves gobbling. Lemon-oregano chicken drumstick, slow cooked for 12 hours with potato puree (£4/piece) was tasty, tender and moist. The 15 hour slow cooked lamb shank with tomato and lemongrass orzo (£23) however was a bit dry. There simply wasn’t enough fat for such a long cooking process. Of the 2 red wines available by the glass, we chose the Mountain Fish Katogi-Strofilia (£6). Drinkable but not memorable. We ended with a vanilla cream with berries and wafers, beautifully decorated with flowers, and a gorgeous bitter chocolate pudding with salty caramel and clementine. I don’t think this excellent dessert was particularly Greek. More like a fashionable foodie fusion fondant. (FFFF)!