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The glorious return of an eighties icon IWC Da Vinci
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Soaring through the Breitling manufacture • Live from Japan: Casio G-Shock’s shocking ambitions • Important new models from:
Tudor, Montblanc, Panerai, Frédérique Constant, Oris, Zenith, MeisterSinger, MB&F and many more • Tempting ladies watches
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The L.U.C Collection Each part is a masterpiece L.U.C
totalling a full 1.8 metres of spring. This patented mechanism ensures an exceptional nine-day power reserve and above all, amazing precision. Like every component in the L.U.C Calibre 98.01-L, each barrel is hand-decorated and finished by the artisans at Chopard Manufacture. The L.U.C Quattro houses a movement that is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and bears the prestigious “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark.
By Lex Stolk International Editor-in-Chief
Shared joy and concerns
Stéphane Belmont, Alon Ben Joseph, Davide Cerrato, Christophe Chevallier, Roel van den Haak, Tony de Haas, Gijs van Hoorn, Hampus Wickerfält, Matthijs Wolzak. A list of names in alphabetical order. Names of men who work for Jaeger-LeCoultre, Ace Jewelers, Montblanc, Tudor, Amsterdam Watch Company, A. Lange & Söhne, Oris, Krons in Stockholm and the Tourbillon Boutique in the P.C. Hooftstraat in Amsterdam respectively. What all these men have in common is an unconditional love for horology, an insatiable thirst for watch knowledge and the ability to pass on their passion for watches to others. Talking to any one of these gentlemen is a breath of fresh air every time. Their unbridled enthusiasm is energising. But an interview with these men keeps you on your toes, as well. Platitudes or unsubstantiated opinions are not tolerated. These men are specialists; walking encyclopaedias.
It's these men who ensure that watch houses can come up with new models that immediately appeal to the imagination, that the story of the manufacture is passed on, infectiously, to watch journalists, correct in every detail and with a sense of historical nuance and context, and that a customer can find out everything and more about his new purchase, enabling him to make a carefully considered choice.
Why am I writing this? Two reasons. I have recently had the opportunity to talk to a number of these men in different situations and every time I noticed that I came away from the meeting full of love for watches. That joyful feeling is something I want to share. ‘Happiness is only real when shared’, is a quote from the film ‘Into the Wild’ that is particularly appropriate here. So far for the first reason.
The second reason is just as realistic, but based on concern. The progressive professionalisation of the watch sector is good for business, but not always good for the emotional aspect. As a result of the explosively expanding watch market and the conglomerates that draw in ever more brands, the groups and watch houses are now increasingly engaging professionals who previously worked in completely different sectors. Excellent people, without a doubt experts in their field. Bean counters and managers who have earned their stripes in the confectionery industry, a private bank or the pharmaceutical industry. However, the one aspect these industries are missing compared to an haute horlogerie maison is the value represented by emotion. In the watch industry there is a direct link between emotion and value. That link is invisible, vulnerable and dynamic and must be treated with the utmost care. If that emotion, the story of the maison, is no longer enthusiastically being told by enough passionate people the history that has been passed on for centuries without
Oris brand manager Gijs van Hoorn is a passionate collector and the driving force behind the Oris Divers Sixty-Five
ever becoming boring will start to fade away. Without a story there are no watches. Without watch lovers it becomes silent in the parallel universe of the mechanical watch. Keep those fires burning!
CONTENT MOMENT IN TIME
The latest Tudor Pelagos LHD is a ’lefty’ that prefers to be worn on the right wrist
For the ultimate Pokémon aficionado Romain Jerome has issued a limited model with the image of Pikachu
Bovet helps Haiti, Ateliers de Monaco acquires a prestigious Geneva hallmark, Hublot has built a new Ferrari, MeisterSinger loves green It appears the haute horlogerie efforts of Cartier are not going unnoticed. A complicated Pasha Golf scored well during an Antiquorum auction in New York
In the thirteenth and last edition of Retrospective we take you to the late 1970s, when Rado had a scratch-resistant watch in its collection with the DiaStar, which also perfectly reflected the spirit of that era with its shape.
A tour of the Breitling manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds with CEO Jean-Paul Giradin at the controls In 1985 IWC’s Da Vinci was the first chronograph with a perpetual calendar programmed for the next 500 years. Thirty-one years later IWC presents a completely new Da Vinci collection in Firenze, home of the inventor and artist the watch is named after Casio aims for the top with the G-Shock. A report in Japan reveals the shocking ambitions of the watch giant
Jaeger-LeCoultre has been making the Memovox alarm watch since 1950. The latest variant of this watch is a steel version with a historically-inspired dial. Unfortunately it’s limited and exclusive to the ‘JLC’ boutiques
Interesting new watches from: Patek Philippe, Christiaan van der Klaauw, MB&F, Armin Strom, Chopard, Vacheron Constantin, Staudt, Grönefeld, Frédérique Constant, Carl F. Bucherer, A. Lange & Söhne, Parmigiani Fleurier, Urwerk, and Montblanc
Big on detail, small in size. Small watches are a big on detail, as a page full of the intense photography of Jakob Dahlström reveals
Elegance that renders us speechless, from Chanel, Gucci, Hermès, Glashütte Original, Ebel, DeWitt, Harry Winston, Roger Dubuis and Piaget
Danish Linde Werdelin collaborated with British engraver Johnny ‘King Nerd’ Dowell. He engraved watch cases with images of tentacles, coral and air bubbles, and that took him more than 100 hours per case
Britta Rossander Kristian Haagen detests hope
28 16 14
MOMENT IN TIME
By Lex Stolk
WEEKEND WATCH The new Tudor Pelagos is called LHD, which stands for ‘Left Hand Drive’. In other words, a ‘lefty’ that can be worn on the right wrist. Or on the left wrist, for those who don't appreciate a crown imprint in their left hand. The Pelagos is the titanium diver’s watch with a water resistance of 500m that is the modern counterpart to the retro Black Bay. However, this new Pelagos does have decided retro touches. For example, the bezel and dial now have beige, luminescent elements and the name at 6 o'clock, written in red, is also a reference to vintage divers from the Tudor stable. Inside the titanium case everything is modern. A very robust chronometer MT5612 calibre with silicone balance spring, built in the company's own factory, guarantees a 70-hour power reserve. The user can take off the watch on Friday and forget all about it until Monday morning. Although, taking off the Pelagos LHD just before a weekend full of action would seem to be a strange thing to do in the case of this robust instrument; after all, isn’t it the perfect weekend watch?
This watch carries on where the ‘Pokémon Go’ game leaves off. Those who have completed the entire game should really get this RJ-Romain Jerome as a prize, but that’s not going to happen. To honour the 20th birthday of Pokémon a special variant has been created of the 46mm titanium Moon Invader with the world© s most famous ‘pocket monster’ of them all, Pikachu, on the dial. The character and the lightning flash are hand-painted in yellow enamel and on the black DLC basic platine the lightning flash can be sandblasted or satin-finished depending on preference. The automatic movement underneath the Pikachu character is the RJ001-A calibre, an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. So after the watches featuring Pac-Man, Donkey Kong and Super Mario Bros. there is now a model with a Japanese animé character that made its debut in 1996. This exuberant watch is really the same as a Tudor Black Bay. Both watches take the wearer back to a time when everything was better. In the case of the Black Bay, back to the daring adventures of real, rugged men and in the case of the RJ-X Pokémon, back to carefree hours in front of the television. Incidentally, that enchantment will cost 20,000 euro and will only be available to twenty Pokémon fans.
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ATELIERS DE MONACO obtains Geneva Seal As the crow flies Geneva and Monaco are only 292 kilometres apart, and yet they are two totally different worlds. Geneva is where the money is held and Monaco is where it is spent. In Geneva the watches are made and in Monaco they are worn. Although the latter isn© t quite correct anymore. These days the small and young Ateliers de Monaco, which is slowly being brought to maturity under the wings of Frédérique Constant and is consequently now also in the hands of the Japanese Citizen, makes watches that can proudly and very surprisingly wear the Poinçon de Genève. This Seal, coveted by many watch houses, is a guarantee of aesthetic and technical excellence. But how is a Monaco watch house able to meet the Geneva criteria? Monaco isn© t located in the district of Geneva, to mention just one thing. This is the answer: the watches in the 18-piece limited edition Poinçon de Genève collection are made in the Geneva manufacture, including the calibre dMc-708 with 38-hour power reserve that is produced and decorated under the company© s own management. Not only is the movement of the very highest quality, it also has a patented ’Freebeat’ regulating system on board, which allows for simple adjustments to the length of the balance spring, greatly benefiting the accuracy of the movement. The price of this limited edition Seal of Geneva recipient is on application. www.ateliers-demonaco.com
MEISTERSINGER NO 02 ‘Rensing green’ The new green H. Moser & Cie. is featured a few pages back in this magazine and you may have noticed the green Oris in the foreword, and now you’re looking at the MeisterSinger No 02 ‘Rensing green’. All that green can© t possibly be a coincidence. There aren’t that many green watches. Rolex has a bit of a patent on green, but other maisons tend to shy away from the colour that reminds some people of a walk in the forest and others of a classic Jaguar in British racing green, but which also has associations with jealousy; some people can be green with that emotion. Like Oris and Moser, MeisterSinger took the small gamble of including this more unusual colour in its collection. There are different green variants in the collection and here we are showing you the hand-wound No 02 with its no-nonsense, functional look. The No 02, which retails at just under 2,000 euro. www.meistersinger.com
Tornado Matthew caused terrible damage and destruction on the Caribbean island of Haiti just before the opening ceremony of the Bovet 1822 Artists for Peace and Justice (APJ) Brilliant is Beautiful Fundraiser Gala event. Fortunately the gala went on to raise 850,000 pounds sterling. The money was collected in conjunction with supermodel/musician/activist Karen Elson and it will go towards the education of women in the destroyed and povertystricken island. During the event at the majestic Claridge’s hotel in London, to which Bovet gave its name and also acted as the strategic partner of AJP, celebrities like soul singer and Grammy Award winner Maxwell and actress Kelly Brook made an appearance. www.bovet.com and www.apjnow.org
EBERHARD & CO.
Scafograf 300 lands a big prize
The Scafograf by Eberhard & Co. dates back to the 1950s. The latest version of this classic model is called Scafograf 300 and was able to reel in the prize for best sports watch at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The steel 42.5mm watch is equipped with all the basic facilities like a strong sapphire crystal, a unidirectional bezel, a helium valve, the black ‘galbé’ dial with luminescent, applied markers on which the model name can be added if required, the central seconds hand and the dots in white, pale blue or yellow. Since its conception some 60 years ago the Scafograf has had variants that were water resistant to depths of as much as 1,000m. However, 300m was deep enough for the latest variant to get an important diploma. www.eberhard-co-watches.ch
HUBLOT BIG BANG FERRARI: new silhouettes These past five years Hublot has been the watch partner of the car brand that possibly speaks more to the imagination than any other car in the world: Ferrari. No watch has ever been such a perfect match for the grunting V8s and howling V12s of the scuderia from Maranello as the exuberant Big Bang. In the same way that Ferrari never rests on its laurels when it comes to continuously updating the collection, Hublot also has a reputation to maintain when it comes to constantly updating collections and models. The new Big Bang Ferrari is not a facelift of the existing models, but a completely new watch. Aesthetically speaking Hublot has tried to meld together the design facets of the sports car with the prancing horse and those of the angular watch as much as possible. However, the stylised collection also has functional characteristics that are very much in evidence. The date and minute displays at 3 oÂŠ clock, for example, have been given shape very functionally as well as attractively: car and watch lines become one. The watch has a strong three-dimensional construction which allows the mechanism to star on the inside and also shows strong similarities with the way in which the V8 turbo engine of the Ferrari 488 is the starring centre point of the sports car. The new 45mm Big Bang Ferrari will be available in titanium (1,000 copies), King Gold (500 copies), carbon (500 copies) and a number of unlimited versions that combine titanium, King Gold and carbon in different ways. Inside these watches ticks an automatic chronograph manufacture movement with column wheel, a sapphire disc with date display and a power reserve of 72 hours. www.hublot.com
BUBEN & ZORWEG:
tailor-made motion In real terms the watch winders and safes made by Buben & Zorweg are just as unique as the objects they house. The most perfect leathers and the rarest timbers that are used by the makers of multifunctional luxury safes, watch winders and clocks for the worldÂŠ s most passionate collectors always make for spectacular creations. And still Buben & Zorweg found a way to go a step further. The Bespoke Line is both a collection and an innovative service that reduces the waiting time for tailor-made safes. The new, customised collection offers a comprehensive choice of different designs, materials and colours so collectors cannot only show their personality in their watches, but also in the cabinet in which they are kept. Each bespoke masterpiece can be customised with 10 different shades of fine Italian nappa leather and the same number of lacquers. Colours range from Arctic White, via Diabolo Red and Havana Brown, to Emerald Green. It takes 12 weeks from the time you order to the time you can house and wind your watches in customised splendour. The price of all this bespoke work is obviously on application. www.buben-zorweg.com
By Lex Stolk
FORE! Cartier Pasha Golf and Santos Dumont
When a golf ball is at risk of hitting a person the player is supposed to shout “fore!” as a warning. ‘Fore’ stands for ‘Flying Object Reaching Earth’ and that also seems applicable to the Cartier Pasha Golf that was auctioned off at the New York branch of Antiquorum last week. This yellow gold 38mm Cartier was made in the 1990s and is a rare piece of equipment, as the movement is of the automatic winding type and not a quartz version, which was much more common in those days. The yellow gold golf watch has five pushers and four digital registers for adding up the golf strokes, which can be seen underneath four small, convex lenses. The pusher at 9 o'clock returns the counted strokes to zero.
artier has been working hard for many years to position itself as a serious watch house. By ‘serious’ we mean a fully-fledged producer of haute horlogerie with the prestige to match. The complicated creations that have been leaving the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in recent years were original, very complicated and had a typical
Cartier signature. Prestige and reputation translate into high amounts at auction. This rare Pasha Golf in pristine condition was estimated to fetch 20,000 to 30,000 dollars but reached 36,000 dollars, to which the auction fees of course still had to be added. A serious amount that may be an indication of the excellent job Cartier has been doing for years now on the complication front.
Daredevil pilot and dandy
Not complicated at all, but definitely very rare and of great historic significance. In 1904 Louis Cartier built a wristwatch for his Brazilian friend, aviation pioneer and society figure Alberto Santos Dumont. It was one of the very first wristwatches for men and was the result of the daredevil pilot’s desire to be able to see the time when flying without having to take his hands off the controls to dig around in his vest pocket for
his watch. The original wrist creation was a unique piece, but because the style of dandy Santos Dumont was much copied in elite Parisian circles, a number of wealthy gentlemen were soon knocking at the door of Louis Cartier, requesting one of these new-fangled wristwatches for themselves. Cartier subsequently produced a series of the same watches in platinum that were given the name Santos Dumont; a name that is still a fixture in the collection of today© s Cartier.
The platinum Santos Dumont watch shown here was made in the 1930s. The case is platinum and the screws in the characteristic case are yellow gold. The folding clasp is also made of platinum and yellow gold. The Pasha Golf sold at the Antiquorum auction in New York last October, but the hammer didn© t fall on this historic watch, which was estimated to sell between 20,000 and 30,000 dollars. Not complicated enough, maybe?
By Lex Stolk
RADO DIASTAR 0024 WatchWorld looks back to the past, when innovative watches were being launched that proved to have great influence on the development of the watch industry. We follow the trail of these milestones by reminiscing with the use of old advertising campaigns. In this thirteenth and last episode we would like to take you back to the early years of the quartz watch - the Swiss battery-powered quartz watch, mind you - when Rado was presenting the luxury variants of the DiaStar pictured here. Scratch-resistant already, but not yet ceramic.
DIASTAR = D-STAR Over the years the name DiaStar changed into the apparently more modern sounding and looking D-Star. The D-Star family consists of more than twenty very different references, each and every one of them referring to the DiaStar which, in its many manifestations, played an important role in the development of Rado as a watch house with a ‘scratch proof ’ reputation. The black D-Star shown here is (obviously) made of black high-tech ceramic and houses an automatic ETA movement that can supply a 38-hour power reserve.
othing feels quite as ‘Seventies’ as an old advertisement for luxury products in a German magazine. The feel of a ‘Krimi’, a TV crime show, set in the wealthier areas of a city like Munich. The young wife of an art dealer is found dead behind the wheel of her Maserati Merak, a gold Rado DiaStar on her lifeless wrist. Not a watch given to her by her husband, but by the tennis coach who also wears a gold DiaStar … So, the DiaStar. In 1962 Rado presented a watch with that name for the first time. Or rather a collection with that name, because those searching for the Rado DiaStar will find a vibrant collection of watches in all shapes and colours. The original DiaStar is a robustly rounded watch with an almost shield-like appearance - one look at the black D-Star, a direct descendant of the DiaStar, elsewhere on the page clarifies the cumbersome description.
Tungsten and carbon fibre
The predominant characteristic of the DiaStar is its very high scratch resistance. In fact, it© s the first scratch-resistant watch in the world. Before the DiaStar was presented, gold and steel watches were being produced. However, Rado wanted to create a sports watch that would actually be able to stand up to abuse during sports. Normal steel didn© t make the cut and so the Swiss started experimenting. The ultimate choice was tungsten carbide, an alloy of tungsten and carbon fibre. The 1962 DiaStar was the very first watch made of that rock-hard alloy and was advertised as being “the world’s first scratchproof watch”. Over the years a range of very differing DiaStar models came out: with a gold colour, with extremely three-dimensional dials and exotic case shapes that were a perfect fit for the fashion of the 1960s and 70s. The material used was revolutionary and the designs were anything but conservative, although they were definitely sumptuous. The gold-coloured watches in the advertisement cost 2,180 and 2,740 German Marks respectively; a serious amount of money in those days. The quartz watches are praised for their durability. The hard metal used ensures that this jewellery will never lose it golden shine.
Hot and heavy tête-à-tête near and in a Maserati Merak
By Lex Stolk
Visiting with Breitling ChronomĂŠtrie
100% PRECISION John Travolta is not the only Breitling pilot - CEO Jean-Paul Girardin also feels very much at home in a cockpit, and preferably the cockpit of his own helicopter, which he uses to commute to work. During an exclusive behind-the-scenes visit to Breitling ChronomĂŠtrie in La Chaux-de-Fonds we found out that Girardin is also an excellent tour guide.
ot all chronometers are Breitlings, but all Breitlings are chronometers. That is quite a feat. Every new Breitling that leaves the manufacture is a chronometer. Breitling is one of the very few watch brands that submits all its movements (both mechanical and quartz) to the rigorous testing of the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (C.O.S.C.). The result is a collection that consists exclusively of chronometers. This striving for precision is a deeply-anchored principle of Breitling that has everything to do with the original philosophy behind the watch house. In 1884 Swiss technician Léon Breitling starts a factory that specialises in producing chronometers and stopwatches. Léon isn© t interested in making pocket watches for the average man in the street, he goes straight for the scientists; he wants to build instruments for professionals.
other brands within the conglomerate and no anonymous shareholders who think about their wallet rather than about watches. Undoubtedly that© s exactly how founder Léon Breitling would have liked it. After his death in 1914 the founder was succeeded by his son Gaston. As befits a good family business, Gaston handed over the reins to his son Willy in 1932. Willy Breitling passed away in 1979, at the height of the quartz crisis and just after the family business was forced to close its doors because of the onslaught of cheap Asian battery-powered watches. Despite the crisis, fellow Swiss Ernest Schneider saw the potential in Breitling. Its unique history and ground-breaking products made him decide to buy the brand rights shortly after the death of Willy Breitling. Thanks to Schneider the crippled Breitling was able to once again spread its wings and continue to build its tradition of pilot’s chronographs.
Navigation and NASA
The professional angle remains an essential part of Breitling. In the 1930s Breitling produces on-board chronographs that are fitted in aircraft cockpits. The watch house supplies its products to Boeing, Douglas and Lockheed, but also to the British Royal Air Force, with which the company signs an agreement in 1936. It is in this period that Breitling becomes the watch house for pilot’s watches. At the start of the 20th century Breitling presents a wrist stopwatch - the perfect instrument for navigating pilots - and in 1956 the company debuts its now famous Navitimer. The name Navitimer is a combination of ‘navigation’ and ‘timing’ and the watch has remained in production uninterruptedly for more than sixty years. In 1962 the watch travelled into space in the Aurora 7 capsule on the wrist of NASA astronaut Scott Carpenter, which made the Navitimer the first chronograph in space. Back here on earth the Breitling Chronométrie manufacture is located on the outskirts of watch capital La Chaux-de-Fonds, which has been put on the UNESCO world Heritage list because of that prominent industry. The town in the Swiss Jura region is the original location where Louis Breitling started the business, while the head office of the winged watch house is found in Grenchen. Breitling has managed to remain independent even today; so no group involvement, no need to consider
Schneider’s interest in Breitling is partially based on a common aeronautical connection, as Schneider is not only an entrepreneur and electrical engineer, he is also a passionate pilot. That background ensures that the already strong bond between Breitling and aviation/space travel only becomes stronger. The new owner is also able to see the commercial value in these intertwined worlds and introduces the connection to the world. The slogan ‘Instruments for Professionals’ is introduced as the brand© s motto. Smart, because it© s the brand© s philosophy in a nutshell and also appeals to a large group of men who like to consider themselves super-masculine professionals. The alluring, psychological qualities of the slogan lie in the fact that the watches are promoted as purely functional instruments and that by the grace of Breitling the man in the street is allowed, as a rare exception, to purchase such a top product as well. Ernest Schneider, who died in 2015, passed on the baton to his son Theodore in the 1990s. But because Theodore, or ‘Teddy’ as he is better known, doesn© t enjoy the spotlight and prefers to operate behind the scenes, he is not the current CEO. That is Jean-Paul Girardin, who has worked for the watch house since 1992. Incidentally, Teddy’s son and one of his nephews also work at Breitling, so there is a third generation of Schneiders who will very
The Exospace B55 Connected hard at work in the cockpit
likely step into the foreground sooner or later. Apart from being the CEO, Jean-Paul Girardin is also our executive tour guide through the manufacture.
Functional helicopter watch
CEO and helicopter pilot Jean-Paul Girardin
The manufacture has a highly stylised interior that prominently features the world of aviation. At Breitling everything breathes aircraft, but the watches definitely remain the priority at Breitling Chronométrie. The reception area is surrounded by a wall in which historical pieces vie for the visitor’s attention, from an early chronograph to the latest models. Talking about new models: it isn© t a classic Navitimer or sizeable Chronomat that graces the wrist of Girardin, but an Exospace B55 Connected. The CEO unapologetically opts for quartz instead of mechanical, and is proud to do so: “I wear a purely Swiss watch. The SuperQuartz developed by our company is highly accurate and because of the functionality of this watch I have an instrument at my disposal that I use when I fly my helicopter.” It© s obvious: quartz is not a dirty word at Breitling, even though the Japanese quartz came frighteningly close to destroying the entire traditional watch industry, Breitling included. With the exclusive thermo-compensated SuperQuartz, developed in-house, Breitling has a very special (read: Swiss) and highly accurate movement in its portfolio that is unbeatable from a professional and functional point of view and is also completely in line with Léon Breitling’s philosophy when he founded the company. With the quartz watch on his wrist Girardin guides us through the different stages that are part of the making of a manufacture movement. Chronograph calibre Caliber 01
is Breitling’s first proprietary movement and was presented back in 2009. With the introduction of this automatic movement Breitling reached even more expressly for the stars. No longer having to depend on suppliers and therefore no longer vulnerable, but operating strongly and independently and building a movement that exactly meets the company© s high demands and expectations. Caliber 01 was followed by variations like Caliber 04 with two time zones and Caliber 05 with a world times complication. The watch house has developed an entirely new and revolutionary industrial process for the production of its own movements. Girardin shows us how things are done in a room that more closely resembles a laboratory than a watch factory. Each separate movement is tracked by a hyper-modern computer programme that automatically sends the movement to the
right workstation. The system was originally intended for the pharmaceutical industry, but with a few adaptations here and there it proved to be very well suited to the world of haute horlogerie as well. The computer chooses between workstations where a fully automated activity can take place and a location where manual work is inevitable. Girardin explains that this process results in a very flexible production process that also guarantees the highest level of precision.
Caliber B01 is Breitling's first manufacture movement
Overall, Breitlings are sizeable watches. Models measuring 46 and 48mm are the rule rather than the exception, resulting in a robust image. However, that robustness does not get in the way of sophisticated production processes and ditto movements. Even if the end result is simplicity, it’s often preceded by a complicated process. In the case of Breitling
MECHANICAL CHRONOMETER: CHRONOMAT 44 BLACKSTEEL SPECIAL EDITION The Chronomat is Breitling’s contemporary chronograph classic. The Navitimer is the traditionalist, the Chronomat is the modernist, spectacularly highlighted in the 1980s by the Italian Frecce Tricolore stunt flying team. The robust image and ditto construction are very evident in the latest version, called the Chronomat 44 Blacksteel Special Edition. The name reveals the diameter of the steel case and the intensely black DLC finish. The black counters and red dials are a reference to instrument panels. The case, which is water resistant to 200m, houses the chronometer manufacture Caliber 01 movement with a 70-hour power reserve and a special black rotor that can be admired through the sapphire case back.
REPORT that mostly relates to the user-friendliness of the watches. A world timer chronograph is based on a highly complicated movement, but its operation is simple and intuitive. And as far as the big cases are concerned, those are mostly big because robustness is a core value. Even in a watch world where marketing determines the image of a brand to a large extent, Breitling first and foremost produces wrist instruments that must function perfectly in all conditions. The wearer must be able to rely on his time instrument at all times, whether high in the air or deep underwater. The construction of the watch is based completely on indestructibility, perfect readability and user convenience, and nothing more. Of course they’re no strangers to marketing at Breitling. The historical connection with all things aeronautical is purely functional, but the company also makes generous use of the emotional aspects of aviation to tell the story of the watch house. And so the company has its own Breitling Jet Team that is known for its incredible formation flying and aerobatics, and the watch house works together with the biggest air shows in the world, like the famous Reno Air Races in Nevada and the spectacular Red Bull Air Race competition. After all, action, adventure and adrenaline are highly infectious. And whereas the aforementioned events mostly appeal to lovers of the Chronomat, the Emergency, the B55 and other models from the collection, the historic Breitling Super Constellation - one of only two remaining and actively flying ‘Super Connies’ - is a better fit for the iconic Navitimer collection. With the restoration of the old airliner, financed by Breitling, the watch house proves that it is well aware of his own history and is able to use it in an infectiously nostalgic way. Jean-Paul Girardin finishes the tour of the manufacture with a soft landing in the reception area. The tour has given us a good understanding of the dynamics of the house and its obsession with efficiency and precision. What is equally clear: as long as man continues to take to the skies there will be a Breitling to suit.
SUPERQUARTZ CHRONOMETER: EMERGENCY NIGHT MISSION The introduction of three black variants means the only truly lifesaving watch with built-in dual-frequency personal locator beacon is not just functional, but trend-sensitive as well. That applies the most to the variant with a mother-of-pearl dial. Yes, you read that right: in addition to a SuperQuartz Caliber 76 that displays the various functions analogously and digitally and a dual-frequency emergency beacon that transmits on 121.5 MHz and 406 MHz, the 51mm case of DLC black titanium also features a blue mother-of-pearl dial. For those who prefer more functional colours there is also a choice of two models with orange or yellow details.
MADE OF LUCERNE
M A N E R O F LY B AC K A U T O M AT I C M O V E M E N T 18 K R O S E G O L D C A S E F LY B A C K
By Kristian Haagen
IWC Da Vinci
8 PREGNANCY -YEAR
Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Things started to get complicated for IWC in 1985. It also helped the Schaffhausen brand through the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis. We’re talking about the Da Vinci; the first chronograph to feature a perpetual calendar programmed for the next 500 years. 31 years later IWC presents an all new Da Vinci collection in the home town of the man behind the name and eight years after the last incarnation.
feel relieved. No doubt about that,” IWC’s Design Director Christian Knoop told a selected group of journalists, when the Schaffhausen based maison presented the all new Da Vinci models in scenic Firenze. “It was the most discussed collection in my eight years with the brand,” Knoop smiles, obviously very happy with the result of what potentially could have been a weak launch. Not only because it is a tough job to reinvent a collection. Also because the market today is very different from the market eight years ago. Knoop does not look like a guy who was eight years in labour. Instead he looks like a guy who is happy to show off his offspring. An offspring however that came 12 months later
than expected. “When I heard about the Swiss franc uncapping from the euro, I told my staff to start working on the Pilot’s watches as the big 2016 launch instead of presenting the new Da Vinci”, IWC CEO Georges Kern told me, when I asked about the postponed launch. “I knew the Pilot’s watches would be a big hit and I could not afford to launch something as new-to-the-market as the new Da Vinci collection,” Kern admits. Both gentlemen however have nothing to fear. Yours truly was quite taken with the new Da Vinci. Not only because it has the round lines of the very first model from 1985. But also because the new Da Vinci line offers one especially good-looking Perpetual Calendar Chronograph model. A complication made by the master watchmaker Kurt Klaus in midst of severe horological crisis. Rumour has it, that Klaus developed the perpetual calendar chronograph on his day off, as the tough times back in the 1980s forced the staff to only work four days a week.
Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The all new Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph however offers the latest manufactured perpetual calendar chronograph movement, calibre 89630. Even though the case shape is a tribute to the 1985 Da Vinci, the dial layout is quite different as the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is the first model in IWC’s history to combine a chronograph with the perpetual calendar’s moon phase display in a subdial at 12 o’ clock. To achieve this, both the moon and the shadow of the earth are depicted on a single disc and rotate beneath an aperture in the lower part of the subdial. Together with the other three displays, this new function creates a harmonious unit on the dial of the 43mm watch.
New features of the 2017 Da Vinci are the moving horns of the case. A great design that ensures a very good fit, no matter the size of the wrist. The all new Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is offered not only in red gold but also in stainless steel and fitted with a luxurious strap by the Italian leather maker Santoni. The new Da Vinci line however is not all about big complications for the gentleman (there is also a very handsome chronograph version with blue dial and an incredibly handsome Tourbillion Retrograde Date). Instead the collection offers quite a selection of feminine models for the slender wrist.
Da Vinci Automatic 36
The feminine side of the 2017 Da Vinci collection has something for all the ladies and offers no less than four versions of the Da Vinci Automatic 36, a diamond-set model in 18-carat red gold and three in stainless steel one of which also has a diamond-set bezel. There is even a beautiful new model offering a moon phase at 12 o’ clock. In other words, IWC has come a long way since its provocative “Der Uhr” adverts that promoted that the brand was “Engineered for men.” For years a woman could wear only a man’s
A historic collection of Da Vinci's with the iconic 1985 perpetual Calendar taking central stage
Da Vinci Automatic 36 Moon Phase
watch if she had the hots for the Schaffhausen watch brand. But that was then and this is now (which incidentally also explained why there were two female journalists per one male specimen invited to the presentation in Firenze). The Da Vinci Automatic 36 line is not a small lady’s watch though. Clearly the diameter of 36 millimetres proves that women of today are into bigger watches compared to the tiny watches their grandmothers wore in their youth. “I don’t think that a modern woman wants to wear a girlie watch,” Kern says. “This is also why our boutique designs attract women. They do not enter a female themed boutique. And our women’s line also reflects that.”
David Seyffer, a historian who also is the curator of the IWC museum, goes a little deeper and has a rather valid explanation to why IWC is moving away from the “Men Only” image. “The IWC brand became synonymous with masculine timepieces and, in the perception of watch aficionados, an “official supplier to men”. But in the brand’s long history, IWC produced not only watches that were “Engineered for men” but also women’s watches with the same claims to sophisticated technology and quality as the men’s wristwatch collection. Indeed, it was women during the 1920s who transformed the wristwatch into the musthave fashion accessory after the First World War, when men were still more interested in
Da Vinci Automatic 36
the functions provided by the first wristwatches. In the 1970s, women purchased a third of the watches manufactured by IWC.”
A fierce competitor
The whole 2017 Da Vinci collection is very attractive. But is it a little too attractive? The challenge of this great new Da Vinci line could turn out to be a fierce competitor to the very successful Portugieser collection, especially when looking at the gentlemen’s novelties. That said it is only fair that the offspring turned out so great as Knoop and his design team spent no less than eight years perfecting it.
Christian Knoop, IWC's Design Director in Florence
By Lex Stolk
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Memovox Boutique Edition
Time to wake up!
What do you prefer: waking up to the pre-programmed tones of your smartphone or to the buzzing sound of your own watch? JaegerLeCoultre has made it possible since 1950, with the Memovox. The latest variant of this alarm watch is a steel version with a historically inspired dial. Unfortunately it's limited and exclusive to the ‘JLC’ boutiques. We have no trouble overlooking the fact that the watch doesn't have a snooze function.
hat are the practical functions of a modern wristwatch? Tourbillons are precise, but any chronometer worth its salt keeps the time just as accurately at a fraction of the price. The chronograph is the most popular complication among men, but many chronos are only occasionally used as a practical instrument, to time the cooking of pasta or an egg - incidentally, it© s not unusual for us to see chronograph wearers who have the chronograph part of their watch going around without noticing. Astronomical complications mainly have an aesthetic value and make a fascinating topic of conversation when it comes to something like a moon phase that only deviates one day every 11,000 years. More often than not, world time watches are so complicated and busy that it© s impossible to intuitively read and/or operate them without a manual. In contrast, GMT watches are convenient travel companions that display two time zones at a glance, and the same applies to watches with an alarm function that produce a warning sound upon request to remind you that your parking time is up, it© s time to conclude the meeting or you need to get up to start your day.
of course there© s the Memovox and after that it literally and figuratively goes silent. If nothing else, this goes to show that the shift from practical to emotional value when it comes to the mechanical watch can be called complete. Saying Jaeger-LeCoultre equals saying Reverso, but the dyed-in-the-wool watch lover also says Memovox. The alarm watch has been a part of the permanent collection since 1950, first as a hand winder and since 1965 also with an automatic movement featuring a vibrating alarm. The company celebrates the 60th anniversary of the automatic Memovox with a steel version with a blue dial. Two crowns, a revolving
There’s an abundance of GMT watches, but alarm watches are much rarer in today© s watch landscape; call them a dying breed. Oris, Glycine, Girard-Perregaux and IWC, for example, used to have an alarm watch in their collection, Zenith has the Pilot Doublematic, Glasshütte Original makes the Senator Diary, Vulcain – the inventors of the alarm watch in 1947 – make the Cricket, then
Serving as a source of inspiration: Memovox Snowdrop from the 70's disk in the middle of the dial containing a triangle showing the time the alarm will go off; the exterior of the Memovox is unmistakable. Over the years there have been different striking variants on the buzzing theme, like the Memovox Parking from 2012, the Memovox Deep Sea – the very first diver’s watch with alarm function – from 1959 and the Memovox Snowdrop from the 1970s. The latter model served as inspiration for the design and the colour of the blue dial. The case of the Snowdrop
is convex and very Seventies - almost a caricature - but the deep blue colour still looks as fresh as it did 40 years ago.
In the 40mm steel case of the blue Boutique edition ticks Calibre 965 and this automatic movement is a direct descendant of Calibre 815 that was first used in 1956. The movement has a frequency of 28,800 vph, has a power reserve of 48 hours and consists of 268 components. The two crowns operate the hours, minutes
and date and the alarm function respectively. What© s remarkable about this new watch compared to an older model is that the newcomer almost sounds like a minute repeater. The buzzing sound has made way for a mechanical ring; wonderful to wake up to, we imagine. The Master Memovox Boutique Edition wears the ‘1000 Hours Control’ symbol, showing that the watch has undergone a full 1,000 hours of testing. For the price of this limited edition of 500 Memovox watches we suggest that you visit the nearest ‘JLC’ boutique.
THREE DUOMÈTRES FOR THE BOUTIQUES
These three variants in the fascinating Duomètre collection are familiar and yet new. The complications based on the Dual Wing movement were in the catalogue already but the colour scheme is new and can only be seen in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s own boutiques.
Duomètre Chronographe 42
Duomètre Quantième Lunaire
PR EC I SI O N , A HE A D O F T IM E S INCE CE NT UR IE S .
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Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5976/1G and ref. 5711/1P
hat do you think of the two new Nautilus models? We expect you have an opinion about these two anniversary models of the renowned sports watch - everyone does! Whether that opinion is positive or negative makes no difference because some things in this world are simply a given, impervious to opinions. The Nautilus is the Nautilus. It doesn© t matter what version; a Nautilus is an unassailable phenomenon. The same applies to watches likely the Rolex Datejust or AP’s Royal Oak; people© s opinions simply don© t affect these established values in the haute horlogerie universe.
To celebrate the 40th birthday of the Gerald Genta classic Patek Philippe presents two striking new variants of the Nautilus. The first one is the ref. 5976/1G, a white gold chronograph. At first glance it appears to be a special version of the ref. 5980, but with a dial that prominently highlights the 40th anniversary and adds lustre to that fact with ten baguette-cut diamonds and three princess-cut diamonds. However, there is more to it than that. Although the case houses the calibre CH 28-520 C - an automatic chronograph movement with flyback function, column wheel and vertical linkage - the case is significantly bigger than the 40.5mm case of the ref. 5980. At its widest point the anniversary model measures a sizeable 49.25mm (the case diameter is 44mm) and
that makes this Nautilus the biggest one in the 40-year history of the watch. Just like the much smaller ref. 5980 the height is 12.16mm, which means the chronograph doesn© t feel too ‘fat’ on the wrist. That is good news because, as the case and bracelet are chiselled out of white gold, we© re dealing with a very weighty anniversary watch of which 1,300 copies will be built. They will be sold in a box made of cork, just like the original from 1976. At approximately 90,000 euro the price is not the 1976 version but totally today’s value.
The ref. 5711/1P looks simpler than its chronograph cousin and in fact it is, even if the material used for the case and bracelet is platinum. Only 700 copies will be made of the 40mm ref. 5711/1P (44.05mm across the full width of the case) and they will be sold for approximately 110,000 euro including the historically correct cork box. It will be interesting to see what these two references will do in terms of price when the first samples are sold by private owners. The fact that the price will be higher than the official price is a given, but it will be interesting to see by how much. This price barometer gives a good picture of the constancy of the collector’s love for the modern Patek Philippe. Back to the platinum ref. 5711/1P. Of course in essence the Nautilus is a steel sports watch and that also applies to the ref. 5711. It© s interesting to know that between 2011 and 2015 the Geneva watch house would make a platinum ref. 5711
to order. These were very small quantities but still, the new platinum variant didn© t entirely come out of thin air. What is completely new are the 12 baguette-cut diamonds on the dial that once again announce the anniversary in grandiose fashion. Beneath the dial the watch is powered by the familiar calibre 324 S C. So - what you think? We suggest you don© t worry your head about this question: no matter what the answer, nothing will change the indisputable fact that these two Nautilus anniversary models have already taken their place in watch history. What we can do is invite you to pick your favourite Nautilus from the selection shown on these pages.
CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW Supernova
n Nijehaske they have stargazers at work: watchmakers who keep an eye on the huge firmament above them as well as the minuscule components on their workbenches. The Friesian watch house with its roots in Leiden - where the founder of the watch house of the same name, Christiaan Van der Klaauw, comes from - has a reputation to maintain when it comes to presenting celestial bodies in wristwatches. With the Supernova the maison proves that an astronomical complication doesn© t always have to result in astronomical prices. The 44m Supernova is being built in the high-tech movement atelier just outside Heerenveen for a price of around 7,000 euro. A very striking detail of this watch is the luminescent moon phase indicator at 6 o© clock. When the moon image is left of centre the moon is in the first quarter. When the image is in the middle it© s a full moon, and when it is right of centre, the moon is in the last quarter. If the moon image is invisible it© s a new moon. More terrestrial is the presence of a date indicator and of course the regular time display. Together with the CVDK Hypernova, the Supernova completes the ‘nova’ family.
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual
urple! At the next SIHH we should try to find out, over drinks, whether this perpetual calendar by Max & friends is a tribute to the artist Prince, who conquered the world with his emotional song ‘Purple Rain’ and who passed away last year. Either way, this Legacy Machine Perpetual with its 581 components and purple dial is a fantastic composition. The movement is a fully integrated mini-machine that can take a few knocks; some perpetual calendars are rather sensitive and fragile when things are being adjusted right when the system is changing the date, for example. This movement, which was built entirely in the company’s own atelier, eliminates the possibility of the mechanism seizing, among other reasons because the movement automatically deactivates the pushers used to set the calendar when the movement is making calendar changes. The movement looks like a mechanical masterpiece and the same applies to the floating subdials, which look just as complicated. At 12 o© clock the hours and minutes can be read between the curves of the balance; the weekday indicator is found at 3 o© clock; the power reserve indicator is positioned at 4 o© clock; the moon phase indicator can be seen at 6 o© clock; the retrograde leap year indicator is found at 7 o© clock and, finally, the date display can be seen at 9 o© clock. And so we© ve been around the clock. Limited to 25 pieces; price on application.
ARMIN STROM Mirrored Force Resonance
hose who served in the military probably remember that battalions were strictly prohibited from marching in step across a bridge. Presumably Armin Strom watchmaker Claude Greisler completed the strict Swiss conscription, because the Mirrored Force Resonance is a watch that works in the same way as a battalion that marches across a cross a bridge. The destructive phenomenon that causes bridges to collapse is called resonance and is a phenomenon in physics that occurs when there is vibration. A vibrating object (a group of marching soldiers) can cause another object (a bridge) to start vibrating because the vibrati vibrations are passed on through a secondary medium. When the second object starts vibrating in the rhythm of the original vibrations the resulting phenomenon is called resonance. The phenomenon of synchronised motion in movements has fascinated watchmakers since the days of Christiaan Huygens (1629-1695). Huygens, the inventor of the pendulum movement, was the first to discover the resonance of two individual pendulum clocks of which he logically suspected that they were showing the time differently. However, when the pendulums were attached to the same beam the motion of the pendulums became synchronised. Research sub subsequently confirmed that the common wooden beam linked the vibrations together, creating resonance. The two individual pendulums functioned in synchronicity because of the beam. In the 18th century Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) demonstrated his mastery of the phenome phenomenon by building a double pendulum resonance clock. Resonance is a technique that is extremely difficult to master and is therefore seldom seen in modern watchmaking. With the Force Resonance Armin Strom takes up the challenge to create a highly accurate movement. If the principle of resonance is applied properly it creates a very stable motion, which results in high precision, energy savings, a large power reserve and the exclusion of negative effects on the time measuring. Shocks do affect the two balances used, but because of the resonance they quickly recover their rhytm. The resonating Caliber ARF15 designed by Greisler is a classically constructed, hand-wound movement that ticks at 3.5 Hertz (25,200 vph). However, because of the symmetrical design and finish, the calibre, which is built in-house, looks very modern and the absence of two balance wheels is definitely not traditional either. A symmetrical seconds display can be seen on the front. This is possible because Greisler and his team created a resonance clutch spring that ensures the seconds are synchronised. It may sound simple, but it took over two years to get the vibrating entity to work properly. Potential buyers who wind the movement for the first time will have a 48-hour power reserve at their disposal, and will see that it takes 10 minutes for the balance wheels to start oscillating in the same rhythm. The price of this most complicated Armin Strom watch in the short history of the house is on application.
NEW MODELS L.U.C GMT One
L.U.C Time Traveler One in steel
Chopard L.U.C GMT One and L.U.C Time Traveler One
hose with a penchant for the finer things in life know about the L.U.C collection by Chopard. The manufacture in the Swiss town of Fleurier builds unique movements that have no trouble at all competing with the established names in haute horlogerie, and has been doing so for 20 years. And yet, appreciation for the manufacture creations is still not quite at the level it should be. Of course Chopard also creates jewellery and the Mille Miglia models are known quantities when it comes to motor racing watches - in fact they are the patriarchs of the direct (marketing) link between cars and watches - but in the highest echelons of watchmaking more intangible elements play an important role. Reputation, history and confidence, for example, as can be seen in the auction results; the only measurable gauge when it comes to consumer valuation of watch houses. What’s certain is that establishing a solid reputation in haute horlogerie mostly takes a lot of time and patience. Certainly the L.U.C timepieces
that pay tribute to founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard aren’t to blame, because they are original – just look at the Quattro movement with four spring barrels – and have an exceptionally beautiful finish.
L.U.C GMT One
The same applies to the new L.U.C GMT One. The watch is powered by the L.U.C 01.10-L calibre with integrated GMT function and that is a first for a Chopard. The steel 42mm watch (a rose gold variant will eventually also be produced) has a GMT hand that indicates a second time zone in 24-hour mode; white hour numerals show the time during the day and orange numerals represent the evening hours. The crown at 2 o© clock sets the local time and the date, and the crown at 4 o© clock operates the big GMT hand. The L.U.C movement has a 60-hour power reserve and the particularly sophisticated finish of the mechanism is visible through the sapphire case back. The Côtes de Genève motif captures the eye of the viewer. The price of the L.U.C GMT One is approximately 9,000 euro and that includes the COSC chronometer certificate.
The platinum version of the L.U.C Time Traveler One
L.U.C Time Traveler One
Those who have an extra 3,000 euro to spend can also opt for the L.U.C Time Traveler One. This watch shows the time in 24 time zones at a glance. The local time is set with the crown at 2 o© clock and the city ring is activated when the crown at 4 o© clock, decorated with a globe, is operated. Of course calibre 01.05-L is an automatic chronometer movement that has a 60-hour power reserve to boot. The steel ‘entry-level model’ costs around 12,000 euro
and there is also a rose gold version of around 23,000 euro and a platinum version that will cost approximately 35,000 euro. Comparable watches include Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Geophysic Universal Time (€14,600 in steel and €24,900 in rose gold) and the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Worldtimer (the steel version stays just under 10 grand and in rose gold this model costs €24,900). It doesn© t make choosing any easier ...
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Harmony Full Calendar
arlier this year Vacheron Constantin celebrated the 260th anniversary of the maison with the introduction of the completely new Harmony collection. As if that werenÂŠ t festive enough, the Geneva manufacture is now introducing at least ten new references in this cushion-shaped collection, of which we introduce one to you here. CanÂŠ t help ourselves but introduce to you, really, because the Harmony Full Calendar approaches perfection. Of course perfection is nonsensical and highly subjective to boot, but many a watch heart will beat faster upon seeing this watch - for both aesthetic and technical reasons. The classic and elegant design of the cushion-shaped rose gold case is perfectly balanced with the optimum readability of the markers on the dial. Around the edge the date is displayed by a central hand with a burgundy-coloured half-moon at its end. Markers for the day and month are shown in the same colour on the outside of the dial and apertures in the top half of the dial. The moon phases and age of the moon can be seen on the bottom half of the dial. The astronomical display only needs to be adjusted once every 122 years, instead of every three years like a conventional moon phase. The automatic calibre 2460 QC, consisting of 308 components, is a completely new calendar movement that was developed and produced by Vacheron Constantin. The frequency of 28,800 vph is commonplace, the finish of the movement is anything but. Price on application.
GRÖNEFELD 1941 Remontoire
n 2014 Tim and Bart Grönefeld acquired their first Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award with the Parallax Tourbillon. This year the Dutch duo from Oldenzaal managed to do it again with the 1941 Remontoire. The brothers won the ‘Men’s watches’ category and in view of the fierce competition that is an impressive feat. Although Tim and Bart are based in Twente, the Netherlands - as is Staudt, incidentally - they gained the necessary haute horlogerie experience in Switzerland. Working behind the scenes at leading haute horlogerie maisons the brothers became specialists in tourbillons and minute repeaters. Surprisingly enough, neither of these two complications is found in the award-winning 1941 Remontoire. What the watch does have is fortunately just as complicated: a so-called ‘constant force’ mechanism that ensures the power of the main spring is released to the escapement very evenly. In the movement the power of the winding spring gets weaker the further it unwinds. The regulating ‘remontoir’ mechanism in this Grönefeld ensures that the power remains even from beginning to end, which means the watch runs very accurately – and for 35 hours. The handdecorating of each individual component is so time-consuming that the watch is limited to an edition of 188 pieces. The inspiration for this watch – which will make technology fetishists and purists, in particular, salivate – was a 1913 church clock built by Koninklijke Eijsbouts, which can be seen in Asten. The name 1941 refers to the birth year of father Sjef Grönefeld. The case (available in various shades of gold) measures 39.5mm, has a height of 10.5mm and surrounds a delicately detailed dial. Distinctive haute horlogerie from Twente; price on application.
STAUDT Praeludium Guilloche
lassically trained accordion player Yvo Staudt has previously been featured in 0024 WatchWorld with his first series of watch creations. The watch lover from Twente, the Netherlands, realised that blood is thicker than water and started his own (small) watch house. The T he Praeludium came, saw and conquered, because it sold out in no time at all. After the hand winder and the automatic there is now the highpoint in the Praeludium collection so far. This watch will also put an end to references to the accordion once and for all, because the fully hand-made Praeludium Guilloche, which has an equally fully hand-made guilloche dial, is an expression of pure watch passion; the only sound heard in this watch is the ticking of the escape escapement and not the Concerto No.1 in Bb Major for Accordion and Orchestra by Nikolai Chaikin. The traditional pattern on the dial was carved out line by line from solid silver, with the utmost care. The watch case is made of rose gold and also finished by hand. In this classic, gleaming case ticks a beautifully decorated hand-wound movement that is made under the company© s own management and stands out for the circular Côtes de Genève on the 3/4 bridge, chatons de rubis, the traditional swan neck fine adjustment and the rose gold gilding. The Praeludium Guilloche is made in the Staudt atelier in Enschede and is limited to 25 copies. The price is 14,000 euro.
New collection of smartwatches from Frédérique Constant
SMART in motion
he Frédérique Constant Horological Smartwatch made its debut in 2015 after a development period of three years, making it the first Swiss ‘smart watch’. Since then Japanese watch giant Citizen has taken over the watch house that was established and made into a success by Peter and Aletta Stas and some things have changed; on the inside mostly, not so much the outside appearances. Frédérique Constant still looks and feels the same and that also applies to sister brand Alpina. However, on the inside of the latest series of smartwatches there have definitely been some changes. Those who think the latest generation of smart models now has Japanese technology will be disappointed. The collection was partly realised in conjunction with Manufacture Modules Technologies (MMT), a Swiss company that was established in 2015 and is a stone’s throw away from the ‘FC’ manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates. The company develops and commercialises modules for smartwatches, firmware and apps; innovative technology made to fit in the traditional haute horlogerie universe. One of the founders of MMT is … Peter Stas. MMT was not taken over by Citizen and will therefore continue to operate independently and sell the products it develops to other brands in addition to ‘FC’ and Alpina.
of traditional watch values and modern technology. Guilloche dials, mother-of-pearl accents, embossed Roman numerals, white diamonds and a sleep cycle alarm go hand-inhand. The 34mm case has been fitted with the MMT-281 quartz module, which guarantees more than two years of battery life.
The 2.0 variant for men differs with Arabic numerals that replace the Roman markers, different dials in the colours blue, silver and black and four different types of leather straps. Even more so than its predecessor, the emphasis of this watch is on sportiness. The MMT-282 quartz module has been fitted in a steel, 42mm case and is equipped with a battery that lasts more than four years - this module is significantly bigger than the version used in the women© s model, so the battery is also bigger and more powerful.
Ten new models
The five new smart women© s models and the five fully revised men© s watches have been fitted with an MMT module. The recognisable subdial of the first Horological Smartwatch is absent in the new models. The attention now focuses on the markers at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock. New functionalities like incoming phone calls, sleep monitoring, a step counter and text notifications are shown on the outside of the dial. The new women© s model is a melting pot
The ten new watches work with the new MMT365 app that connects watch and telephone via Bluetooth and is available for both Android and Apple. Simplicity and ease of use are the priority; of course sleepless nights worrying about incomprehensible operating structures are not the intention when you© re talking about a smartwatch that monitors sleeping patterns. Prices start around 600 euro.
URWERK ‘Raging Gold’ UR-105
rwerk is nouvelle horlogerie at its best and the ‘Raging Gold’ UR-105 emphasises that fact. Urwerk’s co-founder and designer Martin Frei is a self-proclaimed gold addict and with his latest creation he puts that fact out there for anyone to see: “I always have that small inner voice that reminds me how much I love gold as a material for watches. It doesn© t matter how many new materials are discovered or what the trends are, gold will always be gold, forever. It is gold that ignites a fire in me.” No ambiguity there. However, the latest UR-105 is not made entirely out of gold. The basis is titanium and the prominent bezel is made of rose gold. Because of the pattern, which is derived from the traditional ‘Clou de Paris’ motif, a very striking, almost organic creation has been realised. We have seen the wandering hours on revolving satellites in earlier Urwerk creations, but the system has been improved and is now even smoother. Limited to 22 pieces, price on application.
CARL F. BUCHERER Manero Flyback
his Manero Flyback is a highly classical chronograph. The 43mm rose gold creation won’t turn the watch world on its head, but that doesn© t mean we should overlook this noble chrono. Instead of looking at the overwhelming picture in harsh black carbon fibre with overwhelming dimensions, let’s focus on the details. The skeletonised sword-shaped hands in rose gold, for example, that look strong and yet sophisticated. Or the embossed indicators in the same warm material. The dial, with just two sub dials, and the typography are other traditional characteristics that will simply never go out of style provided they are well proportioned. And Carl F. Bucherer got the proportions just right. The case houses an automatic chronograph calibre called CFB 1970, which produces 42 hours of power reserve. The flyback function enables a series of time recordings without the intervention of the ‘stop button’. Perhaps not quite so functionally relevant in this day and age, but still a fine, traditional characteristic. Price on application.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE Saxonia Thin
his page is reserved for classic watch compositions. The charm of the traditional wristwatch never gets old. Subtle, plain watches that exude endless class and allure in spite of their restraint, are not the exclusive preserve of the Breguets, Pateks and Vacherons of this world; in the German town of Glashütte they also have a fine sense of understatement and proportion. Of course the German watchmakers of A. Lange & Söhne are mostly known for
their complicated creations. And this Saxonia, which looks uncomplicated at first glance, is not exactly a simple watch either. Although it only displays the hours and minutes, the entity as a whole is a complex collection of elements. Whereas a complicated watch quickly convinces us by presenting a dizzying array of functions, a classic watch needs to rely on perfect proportions. The Saxonia Thin is the least complicated creation of the German watch house, but we can© t possibly call this watch
simple. The Saxonia Thin, which is available in both a 40mm and a 37mm case in rose and white gold, looks like an established entity in the traditional watch landscape, and that alone is something very special. The Saxonia Thin has just the right amount of detail, an unfussy solid silver dial, and a case which, at a height of 5.9mm, is neither too thick nor too thin. The hand-wound L093.1 movement with its 72-hour power reserve also excels with its simplicity. Price on application.
he Tonda is the basis and the new Métrographe adds a dynamic design to that original shape. The redesigned dial looks completely different from traditional chronographs, but it isn© t alienating or has a contrived modernistic effect. What is very evident is the fact that Michel Parmigiani and his team are professionals who are continuously looking for the true meaning of haute horlogerie. The back dial is combined with rose gold details to take advantage of the warm reflection of the light, and the white dial has been given blued hands. The number ‘8’ is very prominent in both dial designs. The steel case with its restrained 40mm size houses an automatic chronograph calibre from the company© s own manufacture. Calibre PF315 ticks at 28,800 vibrations per hour, has a power reserve of 42 hours and consists of 351 components. The price of this beautifully balanced chronograph has not yet been released.
MONTBLANC 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition
his year Montblanc won the award for the best chronograph at the prestigious Grand Prix d© Horlogerie de Genève with its 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition 100. The highly classic mono-pusher chronograph in its steel 44mm case with blue dial was inspired by models from the 1930s, and that is easy to see in the layout of the dial and the rounded bezel. The steel model won gold, and now a bronze variant has been added to the collection. The latest 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition has more retro elements than the blue award winner, but that was only possible thanks to modern materials. The case is made of bronze and the case back of bronze-coloured titanium. The bronze the case is made of is not the patina-style bronze that we know from Oris, Panerai and Anonimo, but a colour-fast ‘bronze’ like the type used by Tudor. In other words, the case is made of an aluminium/bronze alloy. Davide Cerrato, the new Watch Director at Montblanc, previously worked for Tudor and was responsible for the Black Bay collection. He refuses to answer the question whether this Montblanc is made of the same material as the Black Bay Bronze, albeit with a smile. Sometimes that kind of answer is as clear as an outright ‘yes’. The combination of the softly glowing bronze with the champagne-coloured dial is something that Cerrato is very proud of: “It wasn© t easy to decide on the perfect balance of colours. They are very soft, subtle colour combinations that have to be exactly right otherwise it all starts to look far too contrived. I think the watch looks honest and genuine;
After gold comes bronze vintage modern. I© m not exactly sure what strap we will be using. Alligator is an option – it’s luxurious and of course this is a true luxury watch, but a more rugged leather with a more worn look also fits the sporty character and the functional history of this watch very well.” That functional history is very evident when we take a closer look at the movement used
for the watch. Calibre MB M16.29 is a handwound movement that was inspired by the classic Minerva calibre 17.29 from 1929. Like the classic chronograph, the new calibre is equipped with a column-wheel construction that is activated by a single pushbutton incorporated in the winding crown. The typical ‘V’ of the chronograph bridge has been a Minerva characteristic since 1912 and
the same applies to the arrow at the end of the lever for the horizontal coupling. The frequency of 18,000 vph is once again very classic, but functional as well: this frequency allows for the measurement of lapsed time to exactly 1/5th of a second. The decoration of the movement, which consists of 252 components, is of the very highest level. The price of this model, limited to 100 pieces, is on application.
By Mia Litstrรถm and Britta Rossander - Photography: Jakob Dahlstrรถm - Assistent: Antin Wang
BIG THINGS SMALL
SMALL THINGS BIG
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph, 71,200 SEK
”I have no problem with anyone being precise about small things”
American director/editor/producer who won an Academy Award, a Golden Globe Award and a BAFTA Award for his screenplay ’Schindler's List’ (1993)
IWC Pilotâ€™s Watch Miramar Top Gun, 160,000 SEK, from Nymans Ur in Stockholm
Breitling Emergency II, 159,000 SEK, from Krons in Stockholm
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Ceramic, 395,900 SEK, from Bo Berggren in Stockholm
Bell & Ross Golden Heritage BR03, 32,900 SEK, from Fredmans Ur in Stockholm
”Great things are done by a series of small things brought together”
VINCENT VAN GOGH
Dutch post-impressionist painter 1853 - 1890
Franck Muller Vanguard, 79,900 SEK, from Fredmans Ur in Stockholm
Chopard 1000 Mille Miglia Limited Edition (987/1000), 96,000 SEK from Nymans Ur in Stockholm
Anonimo Militare Alpini Chrono Limited Edition Bronze, Price on request
”I don't take on big things. What I do, pretty much, is make the big things small and the small things big”
American actor/writer/producer/director and together with Jerry Seinfeld creator of the television series ’Seinfeld'
Speechless WOMEN'S MODELS
Not words but watches. When it's purely about beauty, when complications are conspicuous by their absence, that's when we look at colours, materials and shapes. And that's when it’s advisable and wise to keep silent. ‘Watch and enjoy’, is the motto.
The J12 XS is available in white and black, with and without diamonds and with different types of straps.
The new Le Marché Des Merveilles series is a fashionable addition to the existing watch collection with three striking dial colours: turquoise blue, malachite green and coral red, surrounded by a 38mm PVD gold case.
In the film ‘Jackie’ actress Natalie Portman plays the wife of President John F. Kennedy. In her day this iconic woman wore an oval Piaget and therefore so does Portman in her title role. Piaget revived the yellow gold watch with green jade, diamonds and emeralds for the film and it is now part of the current collection.
Maurice Lacroix Hermès
The famous Cape Cod is 25 years old and that is a good reason for a host of new versions in a range of colours. Here are three variants.
Aikon may well be a whole new collection, the inspiration comes from the most successful model series which Maurice Lacroix has ever made: Calypso from 1990. Several design features of the success story can be found in the new Aikon models. The case and bracelet show soft en rounded shapes - the combination of steel and gold with diamond is pure feminine elegance.
By Lex Stolk
S H O C K I N G LY AMBITIOUS UNBREAKABLE C ASIO G-SHOCK
A Casio G-Shock that will fetch 10 grand? It's
only a few years away. A mechanical movement in a Casio? Who knows. A visit to Casio is a shocking experience in more ways than one. The Japanese watch giant doesn't exactly hide its pride, dynamic and ambition under a bushel. A report from Japan.
e© re taking you back to the early 1980s. The Japanese quartz watch has conquered the world and at Casio they’re looking for a way to improve the battery-powered watch with digital display - the technology is a progression from the calculators with LCD screens - and keep it in the public eye. Kikuo Ibe is charged with the task of making the fragile quartz watch more robust. He works inexhaustibly and uses unorthodox methods to successfully complete his assignment. People who worked at the Casio offices in Hamura - just outside the metropolis of Tokyo - in those days had to dodge falling watches, as Ibe and his team would frequently drop various test watches from the top floor to see if they would survive the fall. Many, many tests failed, but eventually Ibe and his team managed to produce a digital quartz watch that had no problem coping with falling off a tall building; the secret lies in the use of a ‘floating’ movement. It© s 1983 and the G-Shock is born.
Initially the watch was regarded as a purely functional instrument and so the virtually indestructible G-Shock was worn by construction workers, firefighters, police officers and the like. Thirty-three years later the G-Shock remains a functional instrument that, apart from being a leader when we’re talking about technological developments and functionalities, is also a watch that appeals to trendsetters because of its untamed, incomparable look.
The first G-Shock was small and made of plastic. Essentially this basic model has never disappeared from the collection. Apart from the fact that the plastic models have become increasingly bigger and more complicated, there is now also a series of metal variations. Thirteen years after the debut of the original, Casio presented the MR-G in a steel case and with a steel bracelet - Kikuo Ibe was behind this construction as well: a highly robust case and yet not too heavy, based on the starting point of the original ‘unbreakable’ philosophy
- intended to appeal to a bigger target group. A plastic model represented sports and leisure time, but a steel G-Shock you could take to work as well. The watch was released in Japan and sold out completely on the first day. 1997 was a record year for sales, thanks to the MR-G but also because the American youth simply couldn© t get enough of the plastic G-Shocks. The G-Shock became a fashion item. Fashion turned the G-Shock into an overnight success, but because fashion is fickle sales eventually declined. Casio© s trick to make the G-Shock more timeless was a traditional one: they included hands to create a more familiar picture. This worked and today Casio is looking at an ever-climbing sales graph with the G-Shock. The hype of the Nineties is over and has been replaced by steady growth, and it© s that stable growth that inspires confidence. So much so that in addition to the basic G-Shock of around 100 euro the catalogue now also features a G-Shock of more than 6,000 euro. After the conception, the evolution to metal and the introduction of analogue models, the move into the luxury segment is the fourth life phase of the G-Shock. And that life phase is the reason we are visiting Japan.
´Meisters´ in the manufacture
We are in Yamagata. In this city, an hour© s flight away from the capital where the head office is located, we are visiting the manufacture and the Premium Production Line in particular. This is where the high-end G-Shock models are assembled, under strictly controlled conditions and by the very best employees in the manufacture. Only when an employee has achieved a certain level the company uses various level of the title
G-SHOCK MASTER OF G GULFMASTER GWN-Q1000: LIFEJACKET+ The new Master of G Gulfmaster GWNQ1000 (€ 799.-) is a G-Shock with remarkably Dutch overtones. Of course the watch was conceived and built entirely in Japan, but to showcase the functionality of the watch Casio has entered into a partnership with the KNRM. Worldwide the watch is being recommended as the ideal partner in the harshest conditions at sea. During their rescue operations at sea the crews of the KNRM (the Royal Dutch Lifeboat Institution that was established in 1823) wear the latest generation Gulfmaster equipped with Quad sensor technology. The four sensors on board the watch are used for, among other things, the compass and the barometer shown on the display. A tide indicator is also a useful aid for the rescuers. When the high tide is entered for a selected location the watch can show the tide phases for any date in the location in question. All aboard!
‘Meister’, because from a Japanese perspective this German word symbolises the ultimate in quality - can he work on the Premium Production Line. Casio employs 11,000 people in Japan; only 650 of them work in Yamagata and only 16 out of these 650 make the premium G-Shock models in Yamagata, in an area that is reminiscent of a pharmaceutical laboratory or a place where secret weapons are assembled; either way, very high-tech. Dressed like astronauts the ´Meisters´ work on the automated production line in the completely dust-free space. Not a spring barrel or balance wheel in sight; instead, ultra-modern quartz movements that ‘run’ on solar power, derive their precision from radio waves and GPS signals and can measure air pressure or have a compass function. Incidentally, Casio isn© t the only Japanese watch producer that makes ‘connected’ watches. Citizen and Seiko also use the radio signals of the two atomic clocks in Japan and, more recently, the GPS satellites that orbit the earth, because Japanese consumers prefer those types of watches. In a country where train delays are expressed in seconds rather than minutes the prominent space of accuracy in Japanese society is evident. The striving for accuracy and the use of high quality standards are closely linked. The latest high-end G-Shocks in their metal cases are assembled in Japan. The complex case designs, the beautifully finished surfaces, the sapphire crystal used in the watches and the rich detailing show that it is extremely important to Casio to secure a permanent position with the metal G-shocks like the MT-G and the MR-G in a price segment where Swiss producers of mechanical watches also reside. A stranger in a conservative world but one that is not only tolerated by many lovers of mechanical watches, but even cherished and collected. The G-Shock is so different from its mechanical counterpart that the two complement each other perfectly.
Traditionally built G-Shock
However, a G-Shock that is creeping towards the Rolex price level is a different story altogether. In those rarefied spheres radio waves and altimeters are no longer enough to curry favour. And at Casio they understand that. Which is why at present - and even more so in the future, we are told at the head office - the company is focusing attention on its production method in advertising campaigns and press releases. Not just the high-tech side, but also the artisanal aspects. For example, the most expensive G-Shock in history was painstakingly hammered by a craftsman until it had countless minute dents; a technique historically used to make Samurai armour. In the future the company will be presenting more models that have a proud connection to traditional Japanese culture. ‘Made in Japan’ has to evoke the same
sense of prestige and quality as ‘Swiss Made’ does today. That is not such a far-fetched idea, because Japanese electronics and equipment are regarded around the world as efficient, high quality, reliable and user-friendly top products. And car brands Lexus and Infinity have managed to carve out a place in the luxury car segment through sheer perseverance and by producing high-quality products. That’s what Casio wants to achieve as well.
Prices of future G-Shock top models will reach around 10,000 euro. Casio says it has every confidence that the market will understand these prices. These will be watches produced in small editions. Last year 8 million watches with the name G-Shock were produced. That kind of mass production seems incompatible with limited editions when it comes to how a product is perceived. And yet, at Casio they are convinced that these top watches will be such a mix of the best Japan has to offer from a traditional and innovative perspective that they will appeal to the consumer. By combining special traditional decorations with progressive movement technology the brand expects to be able to offer unique watches. That© s a highly ambitious objective, but the company has carefully thought about the way to achieve it. Also from the marketing side of things, because the underground culture with its extreme sports that has always been so important to G-Shock will be exchanged for a more mainstream playing field. G-Shocks must be worn by world-famous sports figures. G-Shock must be in evidence at major sporting events. Of course there are the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo …
MRG-G1000HT 0024 WATCHWORLD
Linde Werdelin Oktopus Reef:
inde Werdelin isn© t averse to exuberant creations. With the 44 x 46mm Oktopus Reef, a variant of the Oktopus Double Date Rose Gold, the Danish watch house abandons all restraint. The engravings are by British engraver Johnny ‘King Nerd’ Dowell. He fully hand-engraved the watch cases with images of tentacles, coral and air bubbles and that took him hundreds of hours per case. He refuses to say exactly how many watches he did engrave, although he comments: “I have to say that I thoroughly enjoyed engraving the Oktopus Reef. I had a lot more freedom compared to other projects I have worked on. It was really satisfactory to convert the drawings into actual engravings. I wanted to create movement in the engraving, with swirling tentacles and the suckers on the bottom. Engraving takes a lot of time. Especially the engraving itself, and blackening the engravings under a microscope or magnifying glass, takes a huge amount of time and requires a lot of patience.” That is evident in the price, which is around 25,000 euro.
PATIENT CREATURE 78
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MARCH 23 â€“ 30, 2017
By Britta Rossander
High-class watches meet high-goal polo
The watch industry's major players in the luxury sector often choose to collaborate with car marques, but equestrian polo tournaments also rate highly as collaboration partners. No-
one could overlook Jaeger-LeCoultre's connection to the sport, or be unaware that Piaget is also a key player. Many will know that Ralph Lauren watches go hand in hand with the tough
equestrian sport and since 1985, Cartier has also supported snow polo. In the exclusive and
famous ski resort of St. Moritz in Switzerland, every year since then a winter polo tournament has been held on Lake St. Moritz. Playing and watching the matches on snow has become
a respected tradition, and for over 30 years the game has been played there at the end of January. The top players come from countries such as Italy, Ireland, the USA and Malaysia.
Equestrian polo is an exclusive sport, at the same time as being a very tough game which calls for skilful riders and horses. They must be agile and have great stamina, as they are almost
constantly in rapid motion. The first Cartier Polo World Cup on snow and ice was not an easy match to arrange. Reto Gaudenzi, a polo player with great passion for his sport, received an enquiry from Hans Peter Danuser, director of the St. Moritz tourist office, asking whether an equestrian polo match could be held on snow? Reto campaigned hard for two years to put a competition together as well as finding investors and sponsors.
Since Cartier had joined in from the outset, the great dream should have been realised without a hitch. But the night before D-Day, it snowed heavily in St. Moritz. The sheer quantity of
snow demanded huge snow-clearing machines, but they were too heavy for the ice. Polo players are, however, known for their tenacity. They rang around friends and got them to turn
up with their private snow blowers. After six hours' hard work on the snow, they managed to create an approved field so that the pioneering snow polo game could be held.
The competition is incredibly popular and attracts around 12,000 people on the spectator side. The concept of snow polo has now spread, and similar competitions are held in countries such as Italy, Austria, Argentina, Poland, Slovakia, Russia, Spain, the Czech Republic, Canada
and now also China. Now we hope that the sport will become more popular in Scandinavia
because it should be successful in our beautiful winter wonderland. Perhaps that's something for Ă…re to think aboutâ€Ś
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By Kristian Haagen
Recently I did an interview with one of the top dogs of one of the top groups that own
a lot of watch brands. The man with the answers (I was the guy with the questions) is
known for his sharp answers, but also known to be somewhat difficult to interview.
However, on this particular day, he was mild-tempered and I even detected a smile and what sounded like a giggle.
When asked if the watch world is in a crisis, the top dog answered that he did not see
the current low sales as a crisis. Instead he saw it as the new normal. That the market
could even expect further reductions in sales the months to come. And then he said these wise words:
“Too many watch brands are hoping the good times will return. But hope is a very poor strategy.” Indeed, hope is a poor strategy. But so is greed. And many watch brands have been extremely greedy the last ten years or even longer. Price increases every year and this with only few radical new products to remotely justify the raised prices.
Greed is one of the Seven Sins and sinners should expect punishment. However not all brands are sinners and not all brands are suffering. The brands that kept their price increases moderate and kept the quality high are not hit as hard compared to the brands that doubled their prices over the last decade without much new to offer.
My somewhat poetic take on the current sales is that The Emperor’s New Clothes from ten years ago, is taken over by that classic-cut outfit that will withstand any kind oc-
casion and challenging weather for a lifetime. An approach met with open arms by the consumer. And rightfully so. Because, you know, quality matters. And quality is a great strategy. Now. Then. Always.
MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ARM16 16½’’’
EDGE DOUBLE BARREL
Heemstede: Van Velthoven Juweliers v.o.f +31 (0)23 547 70 77 For more information please contact Eurogold, +31 (0)578 615 333, firstname.lastname@example.org Velp: Juweliershuis Aalbers +31 (0)26 364 01 41 Zwolle: Juweliershuis Aalbers: +31 (0)38 421 76 72