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February 2017

February 2017


Smoky braised brisket • Funfetti party cake • Low-fat prawn jambalaya

Sp£nd less


Sticky toffee surprise 52p per serving



superfood swaps

EASIEST EVER midweek meals – just £1 a head


foodie breaks

Budapest, Naples, Hull: UK City of Culture

+ Get lean with


Reasons to be cheerful this month!

Lime marmalade chicken

Protein pancake brunch

Weekend lamb for friends

Friday night noodles

Valentine chocolate treats


Welcome to February To warm up this frequently freezing (but thankfully short) month, we’re serving up a generous portion of great-value recipes in this special budget issue. Our brilliant easiest-ever midweek meals come in at £1 a head (p44), and we’ll inspire you to transform cheap and plentiful seasonal veg into something special and a little bit different. Turn turnips into rib-stickingly good tartiflette (p38), and discover the surprise ingredient that makes our sticky toffee pudding cover recipe (p42) so moreish. We also hear from food lovers who keep their costs down while still eating well, by teaming up with others to shop or eat together – or even rear their own livestock (p21). Being part of a local food community reaps other benefits too: making friends, supporting local producers, encouraging kids to get involved in growing their own food and, of course, cooking – all of which we applaud. On that note, if you’re new to Good Food, welcome to our friendly community, where we love to share our passion and expertise with you. I hope we’ll inspire you to enjoy all your food – whether cooking or eating out – even more this month.

Subscribe this month and save a whopping 43%! Turn to page 124 for this incredible offer. Subscribers also get great savings on our reader offers including Good Food events, travel and our live shows. TO SUBSCRIBE OR FOR SUBSCRIPTION QUERIES Call 01795 414754 Email bbcgoodfood@

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Gillian Carter, Editor

Who’s in Good Food this month Diana Henry ‘Chocolate cake with a glass of milk is the nearest you can get to eating happiness,’ says our contributing editor. Share her exclusive chocolate recipes with your lucky Valentine this month (p90).

Tom Daley Family dinners were competitive in the Daley household, remembers the diving champion: ‘I have two brothers – whoever ate fastest got seconds.’ Tom’s easy dinners are on page 118.

Dominique Ansel The acclaimed French chef, who created the Cronut , puts his heart and soul into baking. ‘Forget the lashy dinner, nothing says “I love you” like the perfect canelé,’ he says. His recipe for this classic patisserie is on page 142.


February 2017



11 14




27 29 30 33

36 44 51

62 69 70 73

burrito, plus kitchen kit, trends and books for cooks Pancakes VALENTINE’S COCKTAIL

The rhubarb & custard

Learn how community food schemes can save you money FOOD ISSUES Joanna Blythman’s top 10 budget buys RESTAURANT REVIEW

Hispi in Manchester HOW WE EAT NOW Emma Freud’s paean to the potato THE NEW DRINK RULES

Victoria Moore’s quest for the perfect pinot noir


New recipes for winter root veg MIDWEEK MEALS

Just £1 a head!

budget meals

Transform cheap and plentiful seasonal veg into something glorious!


Two great-value dinner party menus for 6

reader offers Join the Good Food These stylish Wine Club for big ceramic pans are savings, p76 great value, p152


Cheaper (and healthier) homemade versions of takeaways DINNER DASH Speedy suppers with quick-cook noodles YOUNG FOOD STARS Alessandra Peters’ fajita sweet potatoes USE IT UP New ways to cook ingredients featured in this issue Book a holiday to Vietnam or Italy, p120

78 80 84 87

Fantastic getaways to South Africa and Spain, p115

JOE WICKS A low-carb dinner

from the nutritional coach SUPERFOOD SWAPS Healthy benefits at a fraction of the cost MASTERCHEF MAKEOVER John Torode’s Asian chicken soup HEALTHY DIET PLAN Prawn one-pot – satisfying, low-fat and low-cal

BEST OF THE BBC JOSH EGGLETON Great British Menu chef, p16 JOHN TORODE MasterChef makeover, p84 TOM KERRIDGE New ways to bake, p110 FOOD AND FARMING AWARDS p122

PLUS Two free tickets to a BBC Good Food Show when you book your holiday


this month’s recipe index

90 96

Diana Henry cooks with chocolate, the ultimate Valentine’s Day treat SPICE IT UP! Rosie Birkett’s recipes take inspiration from Japan, Denmark and the Americas



106 110 116

118 121 122



127 130 132

Modern British dishes from The Mash Inn, Buckinghamshire WEEKEND ESSENTIALS Recipes for the three best days of the week TOM’S KITCHEN

Tom Kerridge’s seasonal baking CAKE CLUB Celebrate with our funfetti party cake


Favourite family meals from Olympic diver Tom Daley SHARE YOUR RECIPES A Good Food member’s Indian coconut ice FOOD AND FARMING AWARDS A tiny Welsh market’s top-notch produce


La Rochelle INSIDER The top places to eat in Hull, 2017’s UK City of Culture SIX QUICK TRIPS

Foodie breaks on a budget

Recipe Sophie Godwin Photograph Peter Cassidy Food styling Jennifer Joyce

#bbcgoodfood #cookthecover


Biggest and best We’re proud to be Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine and the UK’s No 1 food website, Our contributors – BBC chefs, our in-house cookery team and con ident, outspoken columnists – are experts in their ields. Meet us at the UK’s biggest food shows (visit for dates and details). Our best-selling cookery books feature our trusted recipes – you’ll ind these in bookshops. Recipes for everyone There are 70 new recipes in every issue – that’s more than any other food magazine in Britain. From quick, easy dishes to ideas for relaxed entertaining, to more challenging recipes for when you want to take your skills up a notch. Look out for our regular easiest-ever recipes. Tested and trusted We triple-test all our recipes, so they’ll work irst time for you (once by the writer or chef, once or twice in the Good Food Test Kitchen, and again on the photo shoot). We put our gadgets through a rigorous testing process and carry out our taste tests fairly. Our restaurant and travel recommendations have all been tried by one of us. Ethical and altruistic We care about the food we eat, the people who produce it and the effect this has on the world. In our Test Kitchen, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainable ish wherever possible. We aim to help you avoid food waste with advice on using leftovers (tune in to Facebook Live to see our #Fridayfood challenge, when we use up Test Kitchen leftovers). Healthy eating Every recipe is analysed by our nutritional therapist, so you can be informed when you choose what to eat. We lag up vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free recipes. Find out more about our health philosophy on page 150.

MASTERCLASS Step-by-step

French patisserie, plus expert advice and frying pans on test

Families and children Families can need help to create harmonious mealtimes, so we address this by lagging up ‘family’ recipes. We encourage children and teenagers to get cooking with recipes to help them learn new skills. Find out more at

88 95 105


Eating like a local One of the joys of travel – across the UK and overseas – is discovering great food. Our features are written from an insider perspective by on-theground writers and food and travel journalists.

124 144 151 153 154


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Zero-calorie Truvia.® Leaves help make it sweet.

Being honest, we can’t take all the credit for our sweetener – praise is due in large part to those little sweethearts: the Stevia leaves. Thanks to all their hard work, you are now able to enjoy Truvia® with its sugar-like texture and calorie-free sweetness.

For more delicious recipe ideas check out

For one wanting to discover Spain without the plane

This year experience a different, authentic Spain, away from the crowds and a better way of getting there. Cruising overnight from Portsmouth or Plymouth to northern Spain, you’ll enjoy fine dining, elegant bars, entertainment and a great choice of comfortable cabins. You’ll arrive relaxed, refreshed and ready to explore in the comfort of your own car. Reserve this year’s sailings now for a deposit of just £35.

Visit or call 0330 159 6800 Terms and conditions apply.

Pancake inspiration, good-value kitchen kit and a Valentine’s cocktail edited by ELAINE STOCKS


The sushi burrito Sushi has been on a roll for some years now. It comes in all shapes and sizes, and can be filled with just about anything. However, if you think you’ve seen it all, think again. In a marriage of two popular cuisines, the sushi roll is now united with a Mexican burrito to make a sushi burrito, or sushirrito as the San Francisco chain of the name calls them ( Basically, it’s an unsliced futomaki with the ends enclosed, and usually has a filling that leans more towards Japan than Mexico, the burrito element referencing the shape (though guacamole is a popular addition).

Why it’s on-trend In the quest for more time-efficient eating, a large roll of sushi is an easy win for lunch or as a portable snack. And because all the ingredients are on the inside, there’s no need for wasabi pasting, ginger draping and soy dipping – making it a good choice for lunch ‘al desko’. Where to find them In London, visit Suzu ( in Hammersmith at lunchtime. In Dublin, Mosa ( @mosasushiburritosdublin), on Merchant’s Arch, is the go-to place. Otherwise, it’s simple to make your own sushiritto at home! Elena Silcock

Photograph CLARE WINFIELD | Food styling ELLIE JARVIS | Styling WEI TANG

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Turn the page for our recipe 


Sushirrito TV EDITOR’S CHOICE SERVES 4 PREP 45 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

150g sushi rice 2 tsp rice wine vinegar 1 /2 cucumber, cut into matchsticks 1 carrot, cut into matchsticks 1 tbsp soy sauce 4 nori sheets 2 tsp wasabi paste 50g pickled ginger, inely chopped 1 lime, juiced 2 very ripe avocados, halved, stoned, peeled and sliced 200g sushi grade tuna steak (or freeze it yourself – see Health news, right), sliced small pack coriander, leaves picked

1 Put the rice in a bowl, cover with cold water and massage to remove the starch. Drain and repeat until the water runs clear. Put the rice in a small saucepan, cover with 2.5cm of water and put on a tight-fitting lid. Simmer on a medium heat for 10 mins, then take off the heat (leaving the lid on) and steam for a further 15 mins. Stir in the vinegar, then cool completely. 2 Toss the cucumber and carrot matchsticks in the soy and leave to marinate. 3 Lay out a sushi mat and put a nori sheet, shiny-side down, on top of it. Spread a quarter of the rice over the nori, leaving a 1cm border at the top. Mix the wasabi, ginger and lime juice. 4 Layer with the avocado, cucumber and carrot, and tuna. Top with the wasabi mix and coriander. Dampen the top border with a little water, fold in both sides of the nori sheet, then use the sushi mat to help roll. Wrap in foil, slice in half and serve.

What’s cooking across BBC TV and radio this month

THE KITCHEN CABINET Radio 4’s travelling band of foodies conclude the current series north of the border in Stirling at 10.30am on 11 February. Food historian Dr Annie Gray will join chefs Rachel McCormack, Sue Lawrence and Rob Owen Brown on the panel to answer audience questions on all things culinary. Host Jay Rayner and the team will be back in April with a new series.


Food myths: fact or fiction? Is it safe to eat food off the loor? And can you eat raw ish? We asked the Food Standards Agency for the truth Can you eat raw beansprouts? Beansprouts that can be eaten raw will be labelled ‘ready to eat’ – check the packaging carefully to make sure. If not, it is important to wash and thoroughly cook them. Does the ‘ ive-second rule’ actually exist? This is the idea that if you drop food and pick it up quickly enough, it will still be safe to eat. Most loors have dirt and bacteria on them, which can be instantly transmitted to a dropped item – therefore this is a myth!

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • omega-3 • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 313 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 33g • sugars 4g • ibre 5g • protein 18g • salt 0.7g

10 FEBRUARY 2017

Is it safe to eat uncooked ish? Yes – if the ish has undergone an appropriate freezing treatment. Some ish contain parasites that may be a health risk to the consumer – products that are intended to be eaten raw should have undergone treatment before being sold. If you’re making your own sushi at home, freeze the ish for at least four days before using it. Visit food-safety-myths for the truth about more myths. Sarah Lienard

SATURDAY KITCHEN LIVE Four popular Saturday Kitchen presenters take it in turns this February, with Irish cook Donal Skehan hosting on 4 February. Matt Tebbutt takes over on 11 February, followed by Michel Roux Jr on the 18th and Angela Hartnett (below) on the 25th. Catch the live show on Saturday at 10am on BBC One, and Best Bites on BBC Two on Sunday mornings. Kathryn Custance


Old baking trays, from £8.50, We love these retro patterned baking trays. Use them to make Rosie Birkett’s matcha madeleines (p98).



Pancakes Sushi burrito recipe ELENA SILCOCK | Pancake recipes MIRIAM NICE | Photograph CLARE WINFIELD | Food styling ELLIE JARVIS | Styling WEI TANG

Ring the changes for Pancake Day on 28 February with these inventive illings. Find a recipe for pancake batter at

Flippin’ grapefruit

Herbs & honey

Cut the segments from 1 pink grapefruit over a bowl to catch the juices. Put the segments on a baking sheet and sprinkle over 1-2 tsp light brown sugar. Blowtorch or grill the fruit to caramelise the sugar. Sprinkle the reserved grapefruit juice over 4 folded pancakes, fill with the charred segments and sprinkle over more sugar, if you like.

Stir 1 tsp chopped rosemary and 1 tsp honey into 100g softened butter. Tip onto a piece of baking parchment, roll up tightly to create a cylinder and chill until firm. Cut into slices and put one on top of 4 pancakes (keep the rest in the fridge for future). Chop 2 fun-sized Crunchies into chunky pieces, scatter over the pancakes and fold them up. Add a pinch of salt and extra honey for drizzling.

Pan-kalva Toast 50g pistachios, then finely chop. Combine 1 tsp rosewater, juice of 1/2 orange, 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon and 3 tbsp honey. Pour the mixture over 4 fresh pancakes, sprinkle with half the pistachios then fold them up. Dust with 1-2 tsp icing sugar. Sprinkle over the remaining pistachios before serving.

Pancake gold Melt 100g white chocolate with 1 tsp coconut oil in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water, or in the microwave. Push the flesh of 4 passion fruits through a sieve, using the back of a spoon to extract as much juice and pulp as possible. Drizzle the juice over the top of 4 folded pancakes, then drizzle over the white chocolate sauce.

Tiramisu-topped Mix 150ml double cream with 50-75ml sweet dessert wine or sherry to taste, then whisk together until thick. Melt 50g dark chocolate and set aside. To serve, spread 4 pancakes with the cream, then fold. Drizzle each one with 1-2 tsp freshlybrewed espresso coffee and the melted chocolate, and dust each with a pinch of cocoa powder.

FEBRUARY 2017 11



Mexican tacos Each month, we explore a restaurant trend, highlighting the key dishes and ingredients. This month, Laura Sheffield, the founder of Mexican restaurant Corazón, in London’s Soho, explains what’s on the menu (

Nitro coffee A step beyond cold brew – cold coffee is infused with nitrogen, then poured from a keg, much like a stout, for a smooth, creamy inish. It’s available in artisan coffee shops, plus Starbucks and Costa plan to trial it this year.

Picanha Sales of Brazil’s most popular steak cut are rising in the UK – Waitrose has seen a 70% jump in the past year. Picanha (pronounced pee-con-ya), also known as the top sirloin cap or rump cap, is soft and succulent, perfect for grilling.

Probiotic water Plenish has launched the UK’s irst organic and dairyfree probiotic drinks. These low-cal, fruit-juice-infused waters each contain one billion probiotics to aid gut health (

Achiote A bright orangered paste or powder, from ground annatto seeds, with an earthy lavour. Used as a marinade, and to lavour soups and stews. Adobo A ‘rub’ used to marinate meats. It’s a little like a curry paste, made with puréed chillies, garlic, ginger and cumin, plus other spices of the chef’s choosing. Campechana A Mexican mixed seafood cocktail, which usually contains ketchup, clamato (clam and tomato juice), chillies, cucumber and avocado. Carnitas Means ‘little meats’ – it’s usually made with pork, but duck carnitas are gaining in popularity. Similar to a con it – rich, fatty meat is cooked for a few hours, then shredded. Often served with chicharrón (fried skin) and salsa verde. Esquites Sweetcorn is stripped from the cob and served in a bowl topped with lime, chilli and mayo.

Pozole A rich feast of a soup traditionally made with pork (but sometimes chicken or turkey) and hominy corn – giant corn kernels, with a puffy, chewy consistency. Salsa borracha Translates as ‘drunken’ salsa – beer is commonly added, but our favourite is mezcal. A great all-rounder salsa. Tepache A fermented, barely alcoholic drink made with chopped pineapple, brown sugar (or piloncillo sugar cones, if you can get them), cinnamon, cloves and beer. Served over ice, it is crisp and refreshing. Tostada Like a taco, but lat and crisp, to which toppings are added. Usually the tortilla is fried or baked.

Tres leches cake A very sweet white sponge cake soaked in three types of milk – cream, condensed and evaporated.



Cassie Best’s February favourites

Sussex sparkling wine, recently granted regional protection status by the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs, has beaten champagne in numerous blind taste tests.

Naked restaurants Last year saw the opening of Britain’s irst naked restaurant, The Bunyadi. We prefer to keep our trousers on, thanks!

Fad diets Just 2% of the UK are trying a ‘fad diet’ this new year, according to research by Glorious! soups.

Willie’s Cacao hazelnut chocolate spread (300g), £7.99, willies Beautifully rich, made from hazelnuts and Peruvian milk chocolate. Spread it on pancakes, use in a Valentine’s Day bake, or spoon it straight from the jar.


12 FEBRUARY 2017

Zhoug (170g), £3.99, Waitrose Could this Israeli paste be the new harissa? It’s a delicious blend of chilli, parsley, coriander and cloves. Try it swirled through yogurt, or as a marinade for chicken or ish.

ChicP carrot & ginger & turmeric hummus, £2.50, This houmous, made with imperfect fruit and veg, is sustainable and healthy, as it uses raw veg. There’s a range of lavours – our favourite is carrot, ginger & turmeric.

British cassis (500ml), £20, whiteherondrinks. We loved the intense blackcurrant lavour of this British cassis. Add it to your Valentine’s izz to create a glamorous Kir Royal.

Barometer and shopping ANNA LAWSON | Photographs GETTY, ALAMY

Continental fizz



Grilled cheese In the beginning The grilled cheese toastie, which has long been an American comfort food classic, differs from a toastie in that the bread is buttered on the outside and then pan-fried. Then American comfort food and big lavours started to trend about ive years ago when burgers, ribs, barbecue food and fried chicken became staples in street-food stalls and restaurants. Other Stateside greats have followed, including the grilled cheese sandwich. Now Niche restaurants and food trucks dedicated to grilled cheese have opened in London, including toastie truck Grill My Cheese (; Soho’s Melt Room (, the capital’s irst grilled cheese shop; and The Cheese Bar ( in Camden. As well as the classic combo, these cheese wizards stuff sandwiches with mac & cheese, Mexican fondue and more. Make it yourself Mathew Carver, founder of The Cheese Bar, says: ‘The key is using quality ingredients – British cheese and sourdough. Cook them low and slow to ensure the bread is crisp and the cheese is fully melted.’ Natalie Hardwick

Head online for our deluxe pickled pineapple & sriracha grilled cheese (right) at pineapple-grilled-cheese


Fen Farm Dairy Three centuries ago, the Suffolk market town of Bungay was famous for its raw-milk farmhouse butter, and the county was known as England’s butter capital. Now dairy farmers Jonny (pictured) and his wife Dulcie Crickmore are reviving Bungay’s traditions, hand-making raw cultured butter using unpasteurised cream from the milk of their grass-fed Montbéliarde cows. They make the butter in the traditional way, souring the cream using lactic bacteria, then churning and hand-

paddling it with Scotch hands (wooden beaters). The result is a bright yellow, proteinrich butter with creamy, complex lavours. The Crickmores also sell their herd’s raw milk from an on-farm vending machine, and make an unpasteurised Brie-de-Meaux-style cheese called Baron Bigod. ‘People kept asking for butter,’ says Dulcie. ‘So when we discovered that Bungay had been famous for its butter, we wanted to recreate the way it’d been made. The unpasteurised milk and lactic culture give it great depth of lavour.’ Buy Fen Farm’s butter at the farm, online at or at selected delis (from £4.50 for 250g). Clare Hargreaves

FEBRUARY 2017 13

On the Pulse by Georgina Fuggle (£16.99, Kyle Books) Nutritious, cheap and illing, pulses are a brilliant staple, and this collection of modern recipes shows how versatile they can be. Ideal for family meals, there are comforting pies, stews, curries, soups, roasts, cakes and bakes. There’s a handy guide to the varieties of pulses, soaking and cooking times too. Must-try recipe Cheese & cannellini bean pie with fennel seed pastry. Gatherings by Flora Shedden (£25, Octopus Publishing) Flora was just 19 when she reached the semi- inals of 2014’s Great British Bake Off, impressing the judges with her complex bakes. She’s pared things back for her debut book, focusing on relaxed dishes for sharing – slow-roast meats, platters of salads and beautiful desserts. Must-try recipe Sloe ginbraised venison. Healthy Baking by Jordan Bourke (£20, Orion) Irish chef Jordan champions ‘real’ bread and makes bakes healthier by using natural ingredients, ancient grains such as spelt and rye, and fermenting. His sweet bakes, including plum & raspberry buckwheat crumble, are free from re ined sugar and packed with fruit, nuts and spices. There are lots of dinner ideas too, with tarts, pizzas and whole baked vegetables. Must-try recipe Kimchi sourdough.


Pretty & pink This cocktail is designed by James Law, founder of Long lint, creators of ready-todrink bottled cocktails. Last year, Long lint was awarded a BBC Good Food Show Producers Bursary Award (long

The rhubarb & custard SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins EASY

Chambord, the raspberry & vanilla liqueur, combined with the tartness of rhubarb, produces a flavour that is reminiscent of the classic rhubarb & custard sweets. The blitzed sugar powder sticks together pretty fast, so just make a small batch as and when you need it. 10 rhubarb & custard boiled sweets 25ml Chambord 75ml cloudy apple juice


/2 lime ice Long lint Rhubarb & Vodka Seltzer (or sparkling rhubarb with 25ml vodka added) 2 sprigs of mint

1 Blitz the boiled sweets in a food processor or pestle and mortar to create a sugar rim for the cocktail glasses. 2 Pour the Chambord into a cocktail shaker with the apple

juice and a squeeze of lime. Shake with ice. 3 Take a highball or balloon mixer glass and wet the rim before coating with the sweet sugar. Carefully pour in the shaker ingredients and top with cold rhubarb & vodka seltzer. Drop in a mint sprig to garnish. PER SERVING 221 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 40g • sugars 40g • ibre none • protein none • salt none


It’s cheap, cheery and satisfying, so we asked you:

What’s your favourite winter soup? You s

Books for cooks

d… i a Leek & potato


Butternut squash Tomato Chicken

14 FEBRUARY 2017

To take our latest poll, visit tell-us-what-youthink



Royal Recipes Michael Buerk uncovers royal recipes past and present in this new 15-part series. He will be joined by top chefs Paul Ainsworth and Anna Haugh, who will be bringing a range of historic recipes up to date. The series delves into the Royal Archives and the recipe book of Mildred Nicholls – a Buckingham Palace kitchen maid – to examine how royal favourites have changed over the generations. Weekday afternoons on BBC One until 10 February

a saucepan, bring to the boil, then pour through a sieve onto the eggs. Whisk to combine, then return to the pan and heat gently, stirring constantly, until thickened. Pour into a clean bowl, then squeeze the water from the gelatine and whisk the gelatine into the custard. Leave to cool completely. 3 Fold the cream into the cooled custard one-third at a time, then

fold in the candied orange. Spoon into the lined pudding basin up to the top of the sponge fingers. Return to the fridge and chill for 3 hrs, or overnight. 4 Invert the basin onto a plate and heat the outside gently with a hot cloth to loosen. Remove the basin and serve immediately. PER SERVING (12) 426 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 15g • carbs 41g • sugars 32g • ibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 0.2g

Creme à la Carême This dessert was among the recipes Mildred recorded, and is named after Marie-Antoine Carême, the renowned chef who created banquets for George IV in the early 19th century and is considered the founder of haute cuisine.

Book reviews FIONA FORMAN | Cocktail photograph CLARE WINFIELD | Food styling CLARE WINFIELD | Styling WEI TANG Dessert photograph CLARE WINFIELD | Food styling ELLIE JARVIS | Styling WEI TANG | Photographs GETTY

SERVES 10 12 PREP 1 hr plus 4 hrs chilling COOK 15 mins MORE EFFORT

18 Savoiardi sponge ingers 100ml kirsch 135g pack orange jelly, made up with 250ml hot water For the illing 4 egg yolks 100g golden caster sugar 250ml milk 1 vanilla pod, split 4 leaves gelatine, soaked in cold water 500ml double cream, whipped to soft peaks 200g candied orange, inely chopped, or 200g chopped mixed peel You will need a pudding basin

1 Lay the sponge fingers out on a plate, drizzle with the kirsch, then brush them with the jelly. Line the pudding basin with the biscuits, standing them vertically, then carefully pour the jelly down the side of the mould, making sure the biscuits stay in place. Transfer to the fridge and chill for 1 hr. 2 Meanwhile, make the filling. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl until pale. Combine the milk and vanilla in FEBRUARY 2017 15


Josh Eggleton Josh, a inalist in BBC Two's Great British Menu 2016, is chef-patron of the Michelin-starred country pub The Pony & Trap, in the Chew Valley near Bristol (

Bristol has great fresh food markets, in particular St Nick's, in the heart of the city, on a Wednesday. The Portuguese Taste stall does Portuguese custard tarts better than in Portugal ( Smoked salmon from The Valley Smokehouse is the best you can buy, and it's produced just up the road from my pub ( Bath Harvest rapeseed oil is a relatively new product to us. It's got a really nice nuttiness. We use it all the time now, even in desserts ( For incredible charcuterie, I go to Castellano's, which uses local British pork ( When I'm cooking at home, I buy veg from The Banana Boat in Totterdown, Bristol (, and always visit Baked (, next door, for fabulous sourdough. My favourite local restaurants? My friend, Pete Sanchez-Iglesias, has just opened Paco Tapas (pacotapas. – it's an authentic taste of Spain. Wall ish (wall ishbistro., in Clifton, does amazing seafood and brunch dishes.

Impress for less If you’re celebrating Valentine’s Day, or simply want to warm up a wintry evening this month, try a new wine for less. Mas de Daumas Gassac is one of France’s most revered wines at around £25 a bottle – however, this smooth, full-bodied Grand Reserve de Gassac Rouge is made from a similar grape, but is just £4.39 a bottle in our Wine Club reds case, details on page 76.

wine in partnership with


There are so many ways to enjoy Good Food


Keep vitamin D levels topped up Vitamin D plays an essential role in your child’s health – without it, the body can’t absorb calcium into bones and cells. In the UK, the sun is strong enough only between April to September for the skin to produce enough from exposure to daylight. The vitamin is found in oily ish, such as salmon, trout, sardines and fresh tuna. Other sources include red meat, egg yolks and forti ied foods, such as breakfast cereals, some milks and spreads. Government recommendations now suggest that all children over one should be given a daily supplement containing 10 micrograms of vitamin D ( vitamin-d-your-child-getting-enough).

HEALTHY MAGAZINE Kick-start your 2017 with Good Food's brand-new Healthy magazine, featuring 114 simple, nutritious recipes. On sale now for £3.90.


Shore 3-litre cast-iron shallow blue casserole dish, £45, Sainsbury’s Blue is bang on-trend in homeware this year, and this casserole dish is a steal.

GF SHOWS Discover a BBC Good Food Show near you – ind out more on page 88. Readers save 20% on tickets!

Family news LILY BARCLAY




Pulltex corkscrew, £7.75, Borough Kitchen Ask most sommeliers what they use to open wine bottles and they’ll suggest a ‘waiter’s friend’ (one with a lever that you push against the top of the bottle to extract the cork). This one comes highly recommended – sturdy and compact, the double lever makes cork extraction really easy. It also includes a sharp knife for foil cutting and a bottle cap opener.

Lever corkscrew, £39.99, Lakeland A super-speedy corkscrew that works in just three seconds. The smooth lever action makes it effortless to remove any type of cork. With its sleek design and presentation box, this would make a great Valentine’s Day gift. Comes with a matching stopper and foil cutter.

Out & about

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February 2016

HEALTHY DIET PLAN Find a vegetarian version of our new healthy diet plan, plus previous tried-and-tested plans at

4 FEB The Greater London Vegan Festival O 4 FEB Cardiff Viva! Vegan Festival festivals/cardiff-2017 O 12 FEB North East Vegan Festival, Sunderland O 17 19 FEB Wake ield Festival of Food, Drink & Rhubarb wake O 17 19 FEB Gin Festival, London O 18 FEB Bridgwater Food and Drink Festival, Somerset O 18 26 FEB Rye Bay Scallop Week, East Sussex O 21 25 FEB CAMRA National Winter Ales Festival, Norwich

FEBRUARY 2017 17

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10 pages of issues and views, including a new Manchester bistro and top budget buys

eat better, spÂŁnd less,

together How do you keep food bills down when prices are rising? One way is to team up with others to produce, buy or eat food together. From rearing pigs with friends, to bulk-buying wholesale produce with neighbours, we meet food lovers who are part of a growing band of consumers joining forces to save money, without sacrificing the quality of their food interviews KATY SALTER

FEBRUARY 2017 21


I started a school gardena

Sharon McMaster, a mum of three from Lisburn, Northern Ireland, set up a vegetable garden at her children’s primary school. She runs monthly Soup Days to raise funds


created a vegetable garden at my children’s school with a few other parents in 2011. We built raised beds from scaffold planks, and in our first year we grew peas, beans and potatoes. Since then we’ve raised money for a shed and polytunnel, and grow courgettes, cabbages, leeks, carrots and lots more veg. The pupils are being empowered to grow their own food and enjoy learning basic planting and harvesting skills. Parents and grandparents also help out. My dad was a keen gardener. He had a veg patch and greenhouse, and I strongly believe that children who take part in the growing and cooking process are more likely to eat that food. Three years ago, I started Soup Days to raise garden funds. Once a month, children from my after-school cookery club come in early and make soups using veg from the garden, Northern Irish wheaten bread and crusty loaves. They chop and prepare the veg –

I’m just there to supervise. We make two or three soups, then other children can taste the samples before choosing. Chicken noodle and cauliflower & broccoli are the favourites. It started as a one-off fundraiser but has been such a hit that Soup Day is a lunch option once a month. In fact, it’s so popular that we have to use shop-bought veg as well as veg from the garden. We make about £80 profit each month, which has paid for seeds, compost, gloves and wheelbarrows. The school nominated me for 2016 RHS School Gardener of the Year. I was surprised but happy to win. The prize money is a real boost for the garden. We want to grow more fruit for break times. My youngest will be leaving the school soon, so I won’t be volunteering in the garden, though I will carry on with the after-school clubs as part of my business,, which teaches children about cooking and gardening.

22 FEBRUARY 2017

How it works ‘The money from Soup Day goes straight back into the garden fund and pays for the running costs. I help the teachers to take their classes out in the garden.’ Is it right for you? ‘If you’d like to start a school garden, ask the school to put out a request to see if other parents are interested. Start simply – build a few raised beds. If you don’t have a big space, try growing things in tubs and sacks.’ Find out more Visit


School garden photograph EMER DAVIDSON | Pig photograph COLIN BALDWIN


wice a year we buy six pigs with friends and raise them for pork, sausages and bacon. We started in 2012 when our neighbours, Helen and Jeremy, asked us to join them – they had land behind their house. Two more couples joined after. The first piglets we had were Large Blacks. We buy rare breeds to help keep the breed going. So far we’ve had Middle Whites, Tamworths, Gloucester Old Spots and British Lops. Now we have Berkshires and Mangalitsas, which have woolly coats. They use Mangalitsas at Pitt Cue restaurant in London – they’re quite fatty and good for eating. We send two pigs at a time for slaughter. Each family gets half a pig back. We work with a wonderful butcher, Richard, at Green Farm Barn Butchery in Sussex. We give him a list of cuts. He also makes sausages and has his own smoker for bacon. I’ve calculated that we save about £200 compared to buying the same amount of quality, rare-breed pork from a butcher. We use every bit of the pig so nothing goes to waste. My husband Colin has made faggots and also brawn – using pig’s head and trotters. It’s pushed us to try more unusual cuts. The flavour of the bacon is stronger, especially from the Tamworths. It’s proper thick, old-fashioned bacon. Our ‘pig club’ has helped to forge stronger friendships. We have club nights when we bring different pork dishes. It’s great for our kids to understand where their food comes from too. Our son Tom has grown up with the idea that the pigs are for meat, so we never name them. How it works ‘Helen does an online rota every week. The pigs are fed in the morning and afternoon. Everyone puts in the work and gets their fair share back.’ Is it right for you? ‘It is a big commitment. Trying to keep the pigs dry during wet winters can be especially difficult. There’s a lot of paperwork if you want to take pigs to abattoir; it’s a learning process.’ Find out more Read Get Started in Pig Keeping by Tony York (£12.99, Teach Yourself).


Our family has a pıg share a

Jenny White is a food writer and stylist from Surrey. She rears pigs for meat with her husband and a group of friends

FEBRUARY 2017 23


s I was keen to buy food in a more ethical way, a friend introduced me to Suma, a cooperative that sells online. There’s a £250 minimum order, but everything is at wholesale prices. I put the word out on a Facebook group and we’ve now got 10-15 people who order regularly. Everyone fills in what they want on a Google spreadsheet, then I do the order. I’m not a rep, I just help to organise it. People don’t have to buy in bulk. Some buy hundreds of pounds worth of food every few months, one guy just buys coffee beans. Everything costs less than in the supermarket. You can only set up a buying group if you’re not within a certain radius of a shop supplied by Suma, so you don’t damage small businesses. We’d never be able to get this range of ingredients locally. I buy storecupboard ingredients from Suma, then get my milk and veg locally. You can buy huge bags and jars if you’ve got the space. We put in an order once a month. Everyone comes round to my house when it arrives. I feel good that I’m putting my money towards an ethical company and helping others to do the same thing. I wouldn’t be able to afford ethically produced food of this quality in the supermarket, so the buying group gives me peace of mind. How it works ‘Suma takes the money out of my account the following week, so everyone has a chance to pay me.’ Is it right for you? ‘Make sure you know everyone in the group, because you do need an element of trust.’ Find out more Visit

I ` It’s good

local food for less a

Alison Wade, an MA student in London, runs Leytonstone Food Assembly – part of a UK network of groups who order food from local producers and collect it at weekly meet-ups 24 FEBRUARY 2017

` We buy

in bulk at wholesale pricesa Vicky Swann has teamed up with fellow villagers in Pencaitland, East Lothian, Scotland, to bulk-order ethically produced food online at wholesale prices

grew up in a village where we had eggs from the ‘egg lady’, ate free-range local pork and there were sheep in the field opposite our house. When I moved to London, I realised it was difficult to be connected to where your food comes from. My ex-housemate Ashley and I opened Leytonstone Food Assembly in 2015. The Assembly is every Thursday night at The Wild Goose Bakery, run by Vernon and Kirstin, who were some of the first people I met in the neighbourhood. We’ve got 17 producers now, having started with 10. Some are based within a mile: London honey, Leytonstone-based MC

Chocolatier and Zara, who does amazing chilli jams, plus meat, cheeses and vegetables from farms just outside London. I’ve got to know so many people through the Leytonstone Food Assembly, and we’ve started holding community dinners, which bring us all together. My housemates order from it too as it makes sense to buy together to save money, especially when you factor in our partners. My housemate Michal makes sourdough using The Wild Goose’s flour and their sourdough starter. We get to buy better produce but keep within our budgets.

How it works ‘The Food Assembly combines the idea of a farmer’s market with the convenience of ordering online. You stay in control of your budget, because the prices and portion sizes are on the website.’ Is it right for you? ‘There’s quite a long process to setting up a Food Assembly. You need to ind a venue, recruit producers, set up the online market and have a certain amount of members. I take 8% of all sales, but I tend to spend more than I earn – I probably break even.’ Find out more Visit


JULIE I saw an ad for Olio volunteers and signed up. I take photos of the food, and put them on the app with a timer to say when they need using up and where to collect them. There are drop boxes around town. It started in Sainsbury’s as part of a food-waste reduction scheme, but now there are boxes in local stores too. Olio has helped me to save money – some weeks I can save £10. SASHA The first thing I shared was beetroot from my garden. I was curious to see how the app worked, because I was brought up never to waste anything. I’ve realised there’s a community out there that feels the same. What I like about Olio is that it’s not a charity – it’s for everybody. I get a buzz out of picking up a big bag of something that would’ve gone to landfill, and people gladly take wilted salad for their animals. TIM The volunteers and I share recipe ideas and money-saving tips. On the school run I normally bump into someone who has picked something up – people I wouldn’t have known if it wasn’t

for Olio. It makes the community feel smaller and very sociable. LISA I got loads of fruit and veg from Olio when my son Luke was weaning. The last thing I picked up was two pumpkins. My husband made pumpkin & ginger soup and pumpkin curry. It’s definitely widened our family’s repertoire of fruit and veg. We’ve held community street parties trying out some of the food. I went to a pot-luck picnic and took flapjacks with soft fruit that needed using up. How it works ‘Volunteers ensure things in the drop boxes are disposed of if they’re not collected, and cooked food has to be picked up from people’s houses,’ says Sasha. ‘We keep chilled or frozen products in our fridges and freezers until they are picked up,’ says Julie. Is it right for you? ‘If you volunteer, you need to manage your time well,’ says Julie. ‘People ask if you can drop it at their house, and you can end up running around town. Using the drop boxes makes it easier.’ Find out more Visit


` I was brought up never to waste anything a

Julie Brown, Sasha DeRetana, Tim Moore and Lisa Brooks live in Swadlincote, Derbyshire. They volunteer with Olio, an app that enables individuals and shops to share surplus food

Do you share your food costs with a group of friends or neighbours? We’d love to hear your stories. Contact us at the addresses on page 153

FEBRUARY 2017 25


My top 10 budget buys What do you turn to when you want to eat well for less? Our contributing editor Joanna Blythman shares her kitchen staples Eggs I’d be at a total loss if I couldn’t fall back on my old, best friends in the kitchen – supremely nutritious and democratically cheap, even if you buy organic (£1.60-2.40 for six). When a thrifty, carb-centric meal needs an injection of high-quality protein, think eggs.

Celery A bargain – it costs as little as 60p. I like to poach celery in stock and then thicken with cream. Sautéed in butter and puréed, it makes a fine soup that tastes reminiscent of expensive salsify. Stripping the strings with a potato peeler makes all the difference.

Italian short-grain organic brown rice All good wholefood shops stock these pearly smooth grains. Greatly superior to the starchy, long-grain sort – I love the smooth texture. This rice is wonderfully satisfying at only 40p for a serving.

Pilchard Works (around £1.89 for a can) are suave enough to add to salads, and perfect for a simple Sicilian pasta con le sarde.

Apples Dessert apples are doggedly cheap, but who wants to chomp through an autumnal fruit once Christmas is past? That’s when I peel and cut them into segments, then fry with a teaspoon of butter and brown sugar to make a warm toffee-sauced apple dessert. A spoonful of cream adds the finishing touch. Herring A silvery, fresh herring fillet costs around £1.50 and makes for a real treat when fried in oatmeal. Outside of herring season (early summer), I fall back on the pickled variety. They work brilliantly with celeriac remoulade or sliced thinly in a Scandinavian-style potato salad.

Desiccated coconut Lightly toasted Tomatoes If you buy basic tomatoes, you can ripen them up for a week or until they turn deep red. I then halve and season them (salt, pepper, herbs, olive oil) and slowly dry them in a low oven. Full of umami savouriness, I use them to tart up bland, low-cost ingredients.

or snowy white, I use desiccated coconut to bring another dimension to boring-butaffordable muesli that’s short on nuts – or to add texture and interest to overnight-soaked oats or fruit crumble topping. Combined with leftover egg whites, you can use it to make fast, easy and inexpensive macaroons.

Sauerkraut Reliably cheap, and super-


healthy because it is fermented. I combine it with some potatoes and a couple of ham ribs or smoked sausage to make the poor woman’s answer to the Alsatian choucroute garnie. It also pads out cold cuts in sandwiches – but don’t forget the mustard!

‘Berries develop a potent fruitiness when frozen, and pack a vivid punch’

Frozen berries A 500g bag (which costs

Britain imports over 40% of its food, and the drop in the value of sterling after the Brexit vote to leave the European Union (EU) has made those imports more costly. The big retailers had insured against currency risk, but as 2017 unfolds they will have no other option but to raise prices for consumers. Prices could also be pushed up by a potential reduction in subsidies for British farmers as a result of leaving the Common Agricultural Policy. And unless EU politicians strike a new deal on free movement of labour, EU workers currently doing low-wage jobs here will head home, putting food production and manufacturing costs in the UK under further upward pressure.

as little as £2) makes a creative, low-cost alternative to pricey fresh berries. As berries develop a potent fruitiness when frozen, a small amount packs a vivid punch to liven up your breakfast porridge, muesli or yogurt, or any potentially frugal dessert.

Canned sardines Loaded with healthy fish oils. I mash mine with red wine vinegar and serve on toast. Beautifully filleted, sustainably fished Cornish ones from the

Why food prices are rising

Good Food contributing editor Joanna is an award-winning food journalist who has written on the subject for 25 years. She is also a regular contributor to BBC Radio 4. @joannablythman

What do you think of Joanna’s list? Tell us what your cheap food heroes are by emailing hello@

Next month: Joanna investigates Fairtrade

FEBRUARY 2017 27


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Tony Naylor eats at

Hispi F WHERE 1C School Lane Didsbury Manchester M20 6RD 0161 445 3996 COST Dinner for two around £100 BEST DISH Caramelised chicory, Ribblesdale goat’s curd & walnut ketchup VERDICT An unusually ambitious, sharp neighbourhood bistro

Lucky Mancunians – another great local restaurant has come to town. Our reviewer shares his thoughts

or restaurant lovers, Twitter can be as boring as it is boorish. Too many restaurant accounts give you nothing but the hard sell (#fridayfeeling #foodporn #ginoclock). But there are glittering exceptions to this yawn-fest, a few sharp, opinionated (often X-rated) and hilarious feeds (@Mangal2, @thehiphopchippy) that offer credible insight into kitchen life. In particular, Gary Usher (@stickywalnut – tone: chef on the verge of a nervous breakdown) has attracted a loyal online following, who have helped to crowdfund two spin-offs from Usher’s Chester restaurant, Sticky Walnut. First, Burnt Truffle and now Hispi in the posh south Manchester suburb of Didsbury (Cold Feet land). Not that this chef-turned-restaurateur is loved solely for his uncensored rants about TripAdvisor. Usher’s CV includes time with Angela Hartnett and at Chez Bruce in south London, and he is a stickler for quality. His popular, smartly creative dishes deliver. For its price point, Sticky Walnut serves some exceptional food. Sat in Hispi looking at Wetherspoons across the car park of this modern plot, the location feels a bit out-of-town shopping centre. Quaint it ain’t. Thankfully, Hispi itself is a grower. Its somewhat gloomy, mushroom-y decor warms up as the tables fill, the candlelight asserts itself and the alcohol kicks in. Hispi’s affable staff serve a sound negroni and excellent Runaway beers. There are some interesting wines on the list too, such as Montes Alpha’s sweet, classy gewürztraminer. Impressive without quite knocking the baking ball out of the park, the opening bread – a lightly sour dark rye with Lincolnshire Poacher butter – set the tone. This was a good meal. A fleetingly great one. But one that did not achieve the consistent clarity and elegant reconciliation of flavours that I have raved over at Sticky Walnut. The star dish was a starter of caramelised chicory with goat’s curd, walnuts & walnut ketchup. Deceptively simple, it had all the flavours going on: acidic curd notes, vegetal elements, the nuts’ iron tang, toffeeish caramelised feints, and all those were folded together like origami. Gin-cured trout with pink grapefruit, pickled cucumber, radish & yogurt was clean and vivacious, if less seamlessly complementary. The firm trout, all seashore salinity, was a vibrant, savoury anchor individually to the spritzy grapefruit and pickles, but, eaten together, those flavours became muddled. Usher’s signature dish is truffled parmesan chips (heady, sexy spuds), served with an imperious mushroom purée, a seriously meaty demi-glace and

braised short ribs. At Hispi, those short ribs had been swapped for relatively meek featherblade. A somewhat gluey, under-seasoned purée aside, a plate of cod with chestnuts, cavolo nero & Jerusalem artichoke crisps was technically accomplished but it lacked dynamic, evolving flavours. A starter-size portion would have been fine, but, as a main, it was a little dull. That is not an accusation you can level at Hispi’s desserts. Usher’s restaurants are doing some serious work in the pudding sphere and, in particular, the chocolate mousse (dark cherry-ish, not overly sweet) with pear butter and crusty-browned chunks of marmalade-spiked pistachio sponge was A1. In 2014, prior to my Good Food colleague Marina O’Loughlin reviewing Sticky Walnut for The Guardian, Usher tried to dissuade her. ‘It’s just a bistro,’ he tweeted. ‘We are not worth a 400-mile trip.’ On this evidence, that is certainly true of Hispi. It is an unusually good neighbourhood bistro. If I lived locally, I would be a regular. But is it worth a significant detour? Unlike Sticky Walnut, no.

‘Usher is a stickler for quality, and his popular, smartly creative dishes deliver’

Tony Naylor, who lives in Manchester, has eaten his way around most of the region. He writes regularly for Restaurant magazine and The Guardian. @naylor_tony Next month: Lao Café in London’s Covent Garden

FEBRUARY 2017 29

Dear potato, how I love you Baked, mashed, roasted – and definitely in a Dauphinoise. Emma Freud gives spuds star billing

Crisp sandwiches As if crisps aren’t wonderful enough, it turns out they’re even better between bread. When Belfast opened the UK’s first crisp sandwich café in 2015, its stock sold out in two hours. Keighley in West Yorkshire hosted the first English version, and a Walkerssponsored pop-up followed in London. HipChips just opened in Soho selling upmarket crisps with sweet and savoury gourmet dips. At last someone other than Gary Lineker is taking crisps seriously.

with a cloth for 10 minutes. This dries them out, so that when you add butter they absorb it and taste buttery, rather than absorbing their cooking water and tasting watery. Tiny step – big difference. Rösti Easier than you think. Grate a potato, squeeze out all the moisture, add rosemary, salt and pepper, then pan-fry like an omelette until crispy. Once you’ve flipped it, top with grated Gruyère or a fried egg. It’s the new pizza. Baked I’d thought it impossible to improve on a baked potato. I was wrong. Steam the spud for 20 minutes to infuse with moisture, then bake for 40 minutes in a hot oven to get the perfect combo of fluffy inside and extra crispy outside.

Chip butties The ultimate indulgences of carb-on-carb plus butter-on-fat make chip butties so wrong they’re perfect. Four ingredients: floury white bap, butter, ketchup and thick-cut chips. Meddle with this formula at your peril.

Boiled, squashed and then roasted My favourite new method, this is a real game changer: Boil small potatoes in their skins, then drain and cover with a cloth for a few minutes (you know why). Put each potato into a clean tea towel and squash so it slightly bursts, then place on a baking tray. Drizzle with olive oil, scatter over grated garlic and chopped rosemary, and roast in a hot oven for 20 minutes until golden and a bit crispy: the joy of a boiled spud, the texture of smashed potatoes and the crunch – but not the fat – of a roastie.

Mashed potato Reader, I’m not going to lie, I have found it hard to do full justice to this most magnificent of side dishes: mine were always insipid. There, I’ve said it. However, everything improved once I got my head around this hack: after you’ve boiled the potatoes, drain them, return to the pan and cover

Dauphinoise We’ve arrived at nirvana – layered potato slices with lots of cream, garlic and melted Gruyère – to be served on feast days on my desert island. Classic Dauphinoise tips: 1) If your life is too short to peel potatoes, try potato peeler gloves, which have rough, abrasive palms. You peel by

30 FEBRUARY 2017

rubbing, though be warned – they look like murder weapons. 2) Don’t demean the Dauphinoise by calling it a ‘side’ – it’s the main event. A glass of wine is the side dish. 3) Wear elasticated trousers when you eat them, for obvious reasons. And finally – a cooking challenge: some foods are at their peak only when cooked brilliantly using the most expensive ingredients. The potato is not in this category. Your steamed new potatoes and my steamed new potatoes are as good as a chef’s steamed new potatoes. But in the name of research, I spent a day searching for the perfect home-cooked chip. This is what happened… Blumenthal’s triple-cooked chips vs my oven chips For my chips, I cut, rinsed and patted the potatoes dry before drizzling with olive oil, laying on a roasting tray and roasting in a hot oven for 40 mins. I served with salt, garlic and rosemary. They took an hour. They were delicious. To make Heston Blumenthal’s triplecooked chips, I cut, washed, boiled, dried, froze, deep-fried and drained potatoes, then froze, deep-fried and drained them again, before sprinkling with sea salt. I started after breakfast and they were ready when my kids came home from school. They were also delicious. Moral: homemade chips are delicious. And that’s really the point of potatoes – unlike desert-island rescue parties, they rarely let you down. Good Food contributing editor Emma Freud is a journalist and broadcaster, and director of Red Nose Day, which is on BBC One on 24 March. @emmafreud

Portrait DAVID COTSWORTH | Recipe photograph TOM REGESTER | Food styling MYLES WILLIAMSON Styling AGATHE GITS


ne of the most pressing questions of my youth (once I’d sorted out the critical issue of Donny Osmond vs David Cassidy) was, if you were stuck on a desert island with only one food, what would it be? While my shallower friends opted for Wagon Wheels or Angel Delight, for me the answer had to be potatoes. On average, each person in Britain eats three spuds every day – but they are so entrenched in the fabric of British food culture that I worry we don’t give them enough applause. So here is my own little love letter to potatoes…


The world’s greatest salt & vinegar crisp sandwich This is an easy recipe, but – like Mary Berry’s Victoria sandwich – needs to be followed carefully to be perfect. And it really is perfect. MAKES 4 PREP 20 mins plus soaking COOK 35 mins EASY V

2 medium potatoes 250ml cider vinegar 1 tsp olive oil 8 slices really soft, fresh, sliced white bread (or 4 soft white loury rolls) salted butter and tomato ketchup, to serve

1 Wash the potatoes and slice thinly. It’s tricky to get slices of the right thickness: either use a knife, slicing as thinly as you can without breaking, or a mandolin if you have one. Put the slices in a dish, cover with the vinegar and 1 tsp sea salt, and leave for 20 mins. Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. 2 Drain the slices, pat dry gently with a tea towel and put them in a plastic food bag. Add the olive oil and 1 tsp sea salt. Jiggle the bag gently, then arrange the slices on two baking trays. Bake for about 30 mins, but check after 15 mins: you might need to swap the trays’ positions or turn them around if one side is browning too quickly. 3 While the potato slices are cooking, butter the bread and spread half the slices with a thin layer of ketchup. When the crisps are beautifully golden, remove from the oven, lay them on kitchen paper and sprinkle with more sea salt. Pile the crisps onto the ketchup-ed slices of bread in a double or triple layer. Add the top layer of buttered bread, cut off the crusts and eat immediately. PER SANDWICH 293 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 6g • carbs 40g • sugars 6g • ibre 3g • protein 7g • salt 2.8g

Next month: Emma re lects on the importance of teaching her boys how to cook

FEBRUARY 2017 31


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Don’t go breaking my heart

Finding a great pinot noir is a bit like falling in love, says our wine editor, Victoria Moore

Portrait CLARA MOLDEN | Photograph GETTY


ast year I gave a wine tasting for the London cast of the stage adaptation of Sideways. The 2004 film told the story of two Americans on a week-long road trip around the vineyards of Santa Barbara. Jack is a former soap star now relegated to voiceovers on ads; Miles is a divorced, neurotic writer and wine geek, sustained by his love – bordering on obsession – for pinot noir. My task was to help the British actors understand the wine-loving parts of their characters, and to explain what’s so special about pinot noir. Pinot noir is the heartbreak grape. Of all the grapes used to make wine, this is the one that brings tears to the eyes of grown men – seriously, I’ve seen it happen. Pinot noir gets people emotional. It elicits joy, ecstasy, disappointment and frustration. It drives winemakers half insane as they pursue it with clench-teethed determination, even in completely unsuitable climates. Even buying pinot noir isn’t easy. Somehow you can never completely rely on a bottle you thought would be utterly sublime – you can never be sure what you’re going to get. The problem, from a drinker’s perspective, is that when pinot noir is right, nothing can touch it – it makes wines that taste so effortless, fluid and light you almost feel you’ve encountered a ghost when you drink them. I could try to describe the flavours cherry blossom, cherries, cranberries and, as it ages, mushrooms, earth, and dead leaves – but that would miss the point. A beautiful pinot noir is otherworldly. Adjectives become redundant. When it’s not right, pinot is just ordinary. Enjoyable, sure, but you’d never guess it could cause such chaos. There’s nothing in between.

Of course, this is part of the appeal for those who have fallen for pinot. This grape is like the person who doesn’t message back, causing you to set all self-respect aside and try again and again – text after text, bottle after bottle – until, finally, you’re rewarded with a moment close to pure bliss. This is what I tried to convey to the Sideways cast, with my neurotic fussing over the bottle I had taken for them to taste – ‘I hope it’s good, if it’s not OK, I promise you… [muttering continues].’ So, if you’re buying a Valentine’s bottle, I suggest you avoid pinot noir: the fear/ anticipation risks overshadowing your date. If you don’t have a date for the 14th, can I suggest you get into pinot noir instead? It can give you as much of a runaround as any difficult partner, and it’s not easy to find one of those mesmeric bottles. You could start by trying the GevreyChambertin by Rossignol-Trapet 2011 (£35, Berry Bros & Rudd). The Saintsbury Pinot Noir Carneros 2012, USA (£26), Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012, New Zealand (£27.50) and Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2014, New Zealand (£50) are available from Majestic. Or look for a pinot noir from the Mornington Peninsula in Australia: Paringa Estate, Ten Minutes by Tractor, Kooyong and Ocean Eight are good names. The perfect bottle may prove hard to find, but persevere and one day you’ll find a pinot that leaves you blinking in blissful disbelief. Victoria Moore is an award-winning wine columnist and author. Her new book, The Wine Dine Dictionary, will be out in the spring. @how_to_drink @planetvictoria

This month I’m drinking Hortus Artisan London Dry Gin (£15.99 for 70cl, Lidl) This beautifully designed bottle of gin tastes as good as it looks – without a hefty artisanal price tag. Botanicals include lemon verbena and lavender.

What to eat with…


Bodegas Ramón Bilbao Single Vineyard Rioja 2014, Spain (£7.99, Majestic) A modern rioja that’s bright and fresh but with plenty of lavour, as it’s made from the fruit of old vines. Try it with the roasted roots fattoush on p38.


Monferrato Chiaretto Rosé 2015, Italy (£8, M&S) A deep pink rosé made from barbera grapes, this isn’t perfectly dry. Its softness is great with mozzarella, or try it with the sticky hoisin pork on p46.

Next month: Does the type of wine glass you drink from make a difference?

FEBRUARY 2017 33

Make Time for Tea for Ovarian Cancer Awareness Month in March 2017

Register now for your free fundraising pack at or call us on 020 7605 0100 The first 500 to register will also receive a fabulous Vintage Vogue Apron pattern inside their pack! The Eve Appeal is a registered charity in England, Wales and Scotland. Registered charity no: 1091708 and SC042612. Gynaecology Cancer Research Fund trading as The Eve Appeal

New ways to eat well and spend less


Great-value meals and food for friends, p36

Family ‘fakeaways’, plus use up leftovers, p62

Joe Wicks’ lean dish and superfood swaps, p78

Funfetti cake and weekend essentials, p90 FEBRUARY 2017 35

be inspired

Season’s best Transform root veg into something special with these imaginative recipes – all cost £2 or less per serving recipes SOPHIE GODWIN photographs PETER CASSIDY

Turnip tartiflette, p38 36 FEBRUARY 2017


Parsnip latkes with smoked haddock & poached egg, p38 FEBRUARY 2017 37

Turnip tarti lette £1.75 per serving We’ve swapped the potatoes for turnips in the classic French dish, a no-brainer for using up a glut in a seasonal veg box. They add a welcome pepperiness that contrasts with the Reblochon cheese, for which tartiflette is famous. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 40 mins EASY

750g turnips, peeled and sliced 20g butter, plus extra for greasing 1 large onion, sliced 200g smoked bacon lardons 1 tsp thyme leaves, chopped 200ml crème fraîche 240g Reblochon, rind and all, chopped into chunks green salad and cornichons, to serve

1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the turnips and cook for 6 mins until just tender, then drain. 2 Meanwhile, melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the onion for 5 mins, then tip in the bacon and cook for a further 8 mins until it is crisp and the onions are golden. Stir through the thyme. 3 Lightly butter a medium, overproof casserole dish. Cover the base with half the turnips, then spoon over half each of the onion mixture, crème fraîche and cheese. Season, then repeat the layers. Bake in the oven for 25 mins until bubbling and deeply golden. Leave to stand for 5 mins, then serve with a green salad and some cornichons. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 599 kcals • fat 50g • saturates 30g • carbs 10g • sugars 8g • ibre 6g • protein 24g • salt 2.5g

Parsnip latkes with smoked haddock & poached egg £2 per serving There’s an abundance of parsnips now, so we’ve swapped them for potatoes in this brunch dish. SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT

2 large parsnips (about 450g), peeled 2 tbsp self-raising lour small pack dill, snipped, plus a few fronds to serve 4 very fresh eggs 300ml full-fat milk 1 undyed smoked haddock illet, skin-on (about 200g) 1 2 tbsp hot horseradish sauce, 1 lemon, zested and cut into wedges 80g spinach oil, for frying

1 Grate the parsnips into a bowl and add the flour and dill. Beat 2 of the eggs and add them to the bowl. Season and set aside. 2 Heat oven to its lowest setting. Pour the milk into a saucepan and add the haddock, skin-side up. Cover, bring slowly to the boil, then turn off the heat and poach for 5 mins. Discard the milk and haddock skin. Put the fish in a bowl and mix in the horseradish and lemon zest – as you stir, the fish will flake. Put the spinach in a casserole dish, then push to one side, pour over 3 tbsp boiling water and season. Put the haddock in the other side, cover with foil and put in the oven to keep warm. 3 Heat the oil in a large frying pan, add three large mounds of the parsnip mixture, flatten with the back of a fish slice and fry for 3-4 mins on each side until golden. Transfer to a baking tray lined with kitchen paper and keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining mixture. 4 Bring a large pan of water to a simmer, crack in the eggs and poach for 2-3 mins, then drain on kitchen paper. Divide the latkes between plates, spoon over the fish and spinach and top with an egg. Season and serve with dill fronds and lemon wedges. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 540 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 4g • carbs 44g • sugars 14g • ibre 13g • protein 38g • salt 1.6g

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Roasted roots fattoush £1.31 per serving We’ve given this classic Middle Eastern bread salad a winter makeover with good-value roasted root veg. The brown-butter yogurt dressing adds richness, making this dish worthy of a dinner party. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr EASY V

2 turnips, peeled and cut into wedges 4 parsnips, peeled and cut into quarters lengthways 1 swede, peeled and cut into wedges 2 tbsp dukkah, plus extra for sprinkling 4 tbsp olive oil 3 pitta breads 1 /2 tbsp sumac large pack parsley, roughly chopped small pack mint, leaves picked and roughly chopped 1 red chilli, thinly sliced, deseeded if you don’t like it too hot 100g pomegranate seeds For the dressing 75g butter 1 lemon, juiced 200g natural yogurt

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Toss the root veg in the dukkah and 2 tbsp oil and season well. Divide between two baking trays and roast for 1 hr until soft and beginning to char. 2 Meanwhile, tear the pittas into pieces and coat in sumac, the remaining oil, and some seasoning. Put on a baking tray, roast for 15 mins until golden and crisp, then set aside. 3 For the dressing, melt the butter in a saucepan over a low heat and cook slowly until nut-brown, about 8 mins. Immediately pour in the lemon juice and leave to cool. Once cool, stir in the yogurt. 4 Assemble the roasted veg on a sharing platter with the herbs and pitta, then scatter over the chilli and pomegranate seeds. Drizzle over some of the dressing, and serve the remainder on the side. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 466 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 9g • carbs 48g • sugars 21g • ibre 14g • protein 11g • salt 0.9g


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Charred leeks with anchovy dressing 56p per serving Don’t overlook leeks as an elegant and inexpensive starter. SERVES 6 as a starter) PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins MORE EFFORT

400g leeks, trimmed 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped 6 anchovies, in oil 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 lemon, juiced 2 egg yolks 130ml rapeseed oil 1 tbsp parmesan, inely grated 50g hazelnuts, toasted and chopped

1 Heat the grill to its highest setting and bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Wash the leeks, remove and discard the outer layers and add to the pan. Cook for 2 mins until starting to soften, then immediately transfer to a bowl of ice-cold water. Once cold, drain, pat dry and cut in half lengthways, put on a baking tray, cut-side down, rub over 2 tbsp of the oil and season. 2 Blitz the garlic and the anchovies in a mini food processor to form a paste. With the motor running, add the mustard, 2 tbsp lemon juice, the egg yolks and some seasoning, then gradually add the rest of the oil, drop by drop, until the sauce has thickened and emulsified. Stir in the parmesan, taste for seasoning and add more lemon juice, if you like. Divide the dressing between two bowls. Add water to one bowl until it is a drizzling consistency. Store the other bowl in the fridge for another day – it works well with roast lamb or in sandwiches. Will keep in the fridge for 2 days. 3 Grill the leeks for 5 mins until charred, then transfer to a serving platter, scatter over the hazelnuts and parsley, and drizzle with the anchovy dressing. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 311 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 3g • carbs 3g • sugars 2g • ibre 3g • protein 5g • salt 0.6g

40 FEBRUARY 2017


Swede gnocchi with crispy sage, p42 FEBRUARY 2017 41

Create a restaurant-standard dish at a fraction of the price using often overlooked swede. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins MORE EFFORT V

400g loury potatoes, such as King Edwards 600g swede, peeled 4 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp chilli lakes 100g ‘00’ lour, plus extra for dusting 30g parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), grated, plus extra to serve 100g butter small pack sage, leaves picked

1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Cut the potato and swede into equalsized chunks, drizzle with 2 tbsp of the oil, season and roast for 50 mins or until completely soft. Leave to cool slightly, then pulse in a food processor until broken down. Add the chilli flakes, flour, parmesan and some seasoning, then pulse again to form a sticky dough. 2 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil in which to cook your gnocchi later. Flour your hands and divide the dough in three. On a floured surface, roll each portion into a sausage about 1cm in diameter. Using the back of a table knife, cut into pieces 2.5cm in length – this gives a tapered edge to the pieces of gnocchi 3 Working in batches, cook the gnocchi in the water for 30 secs or until they rise to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a tray lined with kitchen paper. Can be made to this stage up to 4 hrs ahead and kept in the fridge. 4 Turn the oven to its lowest setting and heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the gnocchi in batches for 2 mins on each side until browned, then keep warm in the oven. 5 Melt the butter in the pan, add the sage leaves and fry until crisp. Divide the gnocchi between bowls then spoon over the crisped sage and buttery sauce. Serve with pepper and grated parmesan. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • ibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 550 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 16g • carbs 46g • sugars 8g • ibre 7g • protein 9g • salt 0.7g

cover recipe Sticky toffee parsnip pudding 52p per serving The hidden ingredient in our sticky toffee pudding might seem surprising, but parsnip makes the pudding extra light and soft – much like a carrot cake. Its earthy sweetness works wonderfully with the glossy caramel sauce. SERVES 8 10 PREP 30 mins COOK 30 mins EASY

125g unsalted butter, softened at room temperature 150g pitted good-quality dates, roughly chopped 1 /2 tsp bicarbonate of soda 200g dark muscovado sugar 3 large eggs, beaten 200g self-raising lour 2 tbsp treacle 1 /2 tsp ground ginger 2 stem ginger balls, chopped, plus 2 tbsp of the syrup 300g parsnip, peeled and coarsely grated For the sauce 200g unsalted butter 200g dark muscovado sugar 300ml pot double cream ice cream, to serve

1 Heat oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 3 1/2 and butter and line the base of a 23cm square cake tin. In a bowl, cover the dates and bicarb with boiling water and leave to sit for 10 mins to soften, then drain and blitz to a rough paste in a food processor. 2 Using an electric hand whisk or tabletop mixer, cream the butter with the sugar until golden and fluffy, then gradually beat in the eggs. Add the date paste, flour, treacle, ginger, stem ginger, syrup, parsnips and a pinch of salt. Mix to combine, and pour into the tin. Bake for 30 mins until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out with only a few crumbs attached. 3 Meanwhile, make the toffee sauce. Put the butter, sugar and cream in a saucepan with 1 tsp flaky sea salt over a gentle heat. Cook, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved, the butter has melted and the sauce has thickened and is toffee coloured. Remove the cake from the tin and slice. Serve with the sauce and vanilla ice cream. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (10) 732 kcals • fat 45g • saturates 27g • carbs 75g • sugars 57g • ibre 3g • protein 5g • salt 0.4g

42 FEBRUARY 2017

At their best now Meat & game • Guinea fowl • Hare • Partridge • Turkey • Venison Fish & seafood • Mackerel • Mussels • Oysters • Scallops • Turbot Fruit & veg • Brussels sprouts • Carrots • Cauli lower • Celeriac • Jerusalem artichokes • Kale • Kohlrabi

• Leeks • Parsnips • Potatoes • Purple sprouting broccoli • Rhubarb • Salsify • Shallots • Swedes • Turnips

Cookery writer Sophie Godwin, who trained at Leiths, worked as a chef before joining Good Food. She is passionate about seasonal, veg-centric cooking and loves to create big sharing dishes.

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Swede gnocchi with crispy sage 88p per serving


FEBRUARY 2017 43

Easiest ever

Midweek meals

£1 or less per person! Leek & butter bean soup with crispy kale & bacon Butter beans give this dairy-free soup a creamy texture and the starchy liquid from the can helps to thicken it.

Make the most of your freezer and storecupboard with these super-thrifty dinners and a budget dessert

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY

recipes KATY GILHOOLY photographs MIKE ENGLISH

4 tsp olive oil 500g leeks sliced 4 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 2 x 400g cans butter beans 500ml vegetable bouillion stock 2 tsp wholegrain mustard 1 /2 small pack lat-leaf parsley 3 rashers streaky bacon 40g chopped kale, any tough stems removed 25g hazelnuts, roughly chopped

1 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large saucepan over a low heat. Add the leeks, thyme and seasoning. Cover and cook for 15 mins until softened, adding a splash of water if the leeks start to stick. Add the butter beans with the water from the cans, the stock and mustard. Bring to the boil and simmer for 3-4 mins until hot. Blend the soup in a food processor or with a stick blender, stir through the parsley and check the seasoning. 2 Put the bacon in a large, non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Cook for 3-4 mins until crispy, then set side to cool. Add the remaining 1 tsp oil to the pan, and tip in the kale and hazelnuts. Cook for 2 mins, stirring until the kale is wilted and crisping at the edges and the hazelnuts are toasted. Cut the bacon into small pieces, then stir into the kale mixture. 3 Reheat the soup, adding a splash of water if it is too thick. Serve in bowls sprinkled with the bacon & kale mixture.

86p per serving

44 FEBRUARY 2017

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 274 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 21g • sugars 4g • ibre 12g • protein 14g • salt 0.8g


94p per serving

Sardine pasta with crunchy parsley crumbs An affordable way to include oily fish in your diet. Canned sardines are a good source of omega 3 and add oomph to this pasta sauce. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY

1 tbsp olive oil 50g dried breadcrumbs 3 garlic cloves, inely chopped 1 rosemary sprig, leaves inely chopped 2 x 120g cans sardines, drained 500g passata 50g sliced black olives, drained 350g linguine or fusilli small pack parsley, leaves chopped 25g Parmesan, inely grated

1 Heat 1 tsp olive oil in a non-stick frying pan over a low-medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring, until they start to turn golden. Add another 1 tsp oil and the garlic. Cook, stirring, for a moment, then tip onto a plate and set aside to cool.

2 Put a large pan of salted water on to boil. Return the frying pan to a medium heat. Add the remaining 1 tsp olive oil with the rosemary and the sardines. Cook for 2-3 mins, gently breaking up the sardines with a wooden spoon. Pour in the passata, add the olives and leave to simmer gently for about 10 mins. 3 Meanwhile, add the pasta to the boiling water and cook following pack instructions. Stir the parsley and half the Parmesan into the

breadcrumbs. Drain the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water. Add a splash of the water to the tomato sauce until it is thin enough to coat the pasta, then stir in the remaining Parmesan. Toss the pasta in the sauce and serve in bowls, each topped with a handful of the crunchy breadcrumbs. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • calcium • ibre • omega-3 • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 536 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 3g • carbs 75g • sugars 8g • ibre 6g • protein 25g • salt 1.1g

FEBRUARY 2017 45

Sticky hoisin pork steaks Served with a fresh, crunchy slaw and a sweet glaze that soaks into the rice, this simple dish will keep everyone happy. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 15 mins EASY

150g hoisin sauce 6 thin-cut pork loin steaks 360g long-grain rice 1 tbsp sun lower oil 1 tbsp soy sauce 3 spring onions, thinly sliced on an angle For the slaw 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 /2 red cabbage, cored and inely shredded (about 300g) 300g carrots, coarsely grated or cut into matchsticks 1 /2 cucumber, halved, deseeded and thinly sliced 1 /2 small pack mint

94p per serving

Jacket potato with whipped feta & sumac If you’re in a hurry, you can cook the potato in the microwave first, then drizzle over the garlic oil and bake for a further 15 minutes to crisp up. The fragrant, zesty flavour of sumac is a freshing contrast to the creamy whipped feta. SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 15 mins EASY V

1 baking potato 2 tsp olive oil 1 /2 tsp garlic salt 50g feta 50g Greek yogurt 1 roasted red pepper from a jar (about 25g), inely chopped 1 /2 tsp sumac few basil leaves, to serve (optional)

46 FEBRUARY 2017

1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 6. Prick the potato all over with a fork and bake for 1 hr until it is golden outside and soft inside. Mix 1 tsp olive oil with the garlic salt. Cut a deep cross into the top of the jacket, drizzle the garlic oil into the cross and rub it all over the outside. Return to the oven and bake for 15 mins more until the edges are golden and crispy. 2 Meanwhile, crumble the feta into a bowl, add the yogurt and whisk together until creamy. Stir in the red pepper with a good grind of black pepper and spoon the whipped feta into the jacket. Sprinkle with the sumac, drizzle over the remaining 1 tsp olive oil and scatter a few torn basil leaves on top, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • gluten free PER SERVING 420 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 11g • carbs 39g • sugars 5g • ibre 4g • protein 15g • salt 3g

1 Put a large pan of water on to boil. Pour 75g hoisin sauce into a shallow dish, add the pork and turn to coat. Cover and leave to sit at room temperature. Meanwhile, make the slaw. In a large bowl, mix the vinegar with the soy. Add the cabbage, carrot and cucumber, and toss together. 2 Tip the rice into the pan of boiling water and cook following pack instructions. Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan large enough to fit the steaks. Cook over a mediumhigh heat for 2-3 mins on each side until cooked through and slightly charred. Lift the steaks out of the pan onto a warm plate and cover with foil. If the cooking juices have burnt, wipe the pan out first, otherwise add the remaining hoisin straight to the frying pan with 1 tbsp soy sauce and 100ml water and bubble gently. 3 Drain the rice, divide between six plates and put the steaks on top. Spoon the extra hoisin sauce over the steaks so it soaks into the rice below, then scatter over the spring onions. Tear the mint leaves and stir them into the slaw, then serve alongside the steaks. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 666 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 8g • carbs 65g • sugars 13g • ibre 5g • protein 40g • salt 2g


95p per serving

FEBRUARY 2017 47

These are cheap, easy, satisfying – and quick. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

1 large egg, lightly beaten 100ml semi-skimmed milk 50g plain lour 1 tsp sun lower oil, plus extra for frying the pancakes 100g frozen spinach 1 /2 x 226g pack paneer, cut into medium cubes 1 tbsp hot curry paste 400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 150g passata 75ml coconut yogurt 1 tbsp mango chutney

1 Heat oven to 110C/90C fan/gas 1/4. To make the pancake batter, gradually mix the egg and milk into the flour either in a food processor or in a bowl by hand with a whisk. Heat a little oil in a non-stick crêpe or frying pan over a medium heat.

Pour in about a quarter of the batter and swirl it around to coat the pan. Cook for about 30 secs on each side, then lift onto a baking tray and put in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with the rest of the batter, adding a little more oil to the pan each time – layer baking parchment between the finished pancakes so they don’t stick together. 2 Cook the frozen spinach in the microwave for 4 mins or following pack instructions. Meanwhile, heat 1 tsp oil in a non-stick frying pan on a medium heat. Add the paneer and fry for 20 secs on each side until crisp and golden. Stir in the curry paste, then add the chickpeas, passata and spinach, and heat through. If the mixture is too dry, add a splash of water. 3 Mix the coconut yogurt with the mango chutney. Divide the hot filling between the pancakes, spoon on some yogurt, then roll up to serve.

£1 per serving

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • ibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 696 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 18g • carbs 50g • sugars 11g • ibre 11g • protein 36g • salt 0.9g

£1 per serving

Egg-fried cauli lower rice with prawn cracker crumbs Using cauliflower for rice bumps up the veg count, while frozen peas and beans keep costs down. SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

160g frozen green beans 160g frozen peas 1 tbsp sun lower oil 50g bacon lardons 1 onion, chopped 160g carrots, peeled and inely chopped 1 large egg, beaten 200g small cauli lower lorets 1 tbsp soy sauce 25ml sweet chilli sauce 20g prawn crackers

1 Put the kettle on to boil. Put the beans and peas in a large sieve then pour over the boiled water to defrost them. Drain and set aside. 2 Heat 1 tsp oil in a large, non-stick frying pan or wok. Add the bacon and fry for 2-3 mins. Add another 48 FEBRUARY 2017

1 tsp oil and cook the onion and carrots for 1-2 mins until slightly softened, then push the veg and bacon to one side of the pan. Add the final 1 tsp oil, then pour in the egg, stirring constantly to scramble it. 3 Pulse the cauliflower in a food processor until it resembles rice. Add the cauliflower and soy to the pan, and stir together. Add the green beans and peas, and cook, stirring, for 1-2 mins until hot through. Divide between two plates and serve with sweet chilli sauce for drizzling. Break the prawn crackers into rough crumbs. The crackers absorb moisture quickly so, to keep them crunchy, it’s best to serve them in a dish on the side to sprinkle over the rice while eating. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • folate • ibre • vit c • 5 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 428 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 4g • carbs 40g • sugars 25g • ibre 16g • protein 18g • salt 2.5g


Paneer-stuffed pancakes


72p per serving

Butterscotch banana pie This looks impressive but uses storecupboard ingredients and is ready in under half an hour. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus chilling COOK 5 mins EASY

100g dark chocolate 125g malted milk or digestive biscuits 66g pack butterscotch pudding whip (we used Angel Delight) 300ml milk 2 medium bananas 60g salted caramel sauce (or add a pinch of salt to caramel sauce)

1 Melt 75g of the chocolate in the microwave in 30 second bursts. Whizz the biscuits in a food processor into crumbs. Pour the melted chocolate onto the biscuit crumbs and whizz again. Spread the biscuit mixture across the base and up the sides of a 16-18cm shallow pie or cake tin, then put in the fridge to set. 2 Sprinkle the butterscotch pudding powder into the milk and whisk together until smooth. Slice the bananas. Take the tin out of the fridge and spread the salted caramel sauce over the base. Cover the caramel with the banana slices.

The pudding will have started to thicken, so give it a brief whisk, then spoon it over the bananas. Put in the fridge for 5-10 mins to set. Melt the remaining chocolate and drizzle over the pie to serve. PER SERVING 323 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 8g • carbs 41g • sugars 27g • ibre 3g • protein 5g • salt 0.7g

FEBRUARY 2017 49


Win a luxury five-night stay in the French Alps



You could win a trip to the stunning resort of Samoëns, where you’ll stay in the beautiful Villa Rose and enjoy incredible food We’re offering you and a guest the chance to win a luxury five-night break in the Alpine village of Samoëns, staying at the beautiful Belle Époque boutique hotel, Villa Rose. Just an hour from Geneva, Villa Rose is a lovingly restored villa that offers both a luxurious home away from home and the perfect base for a getaway in the great outdoors. There is a huge range of sports to choose from in the local area, from hiking and white-water rafting to paragliding. If you simply fancy relaxing, the Villa’s welcoming sunroom is a great place to curl up with a book, and there’s also a brand-new jacuzzi. You’ll enjoy fantastic food from head chef Daniel Kyramarios – his inventive dishes, inspired by global cuisines, range from French classics to the spicy and aromatic subtleties of Asian fusion. His brilliant breakfasts set guests up for the day, and his dazzling four-course meals will be memorable. Best of all, his freshly prepared picnics can be enjoyed alongside stunning Sound of Music-style views!

50 FEBRUARY 2017


• • • •

Return economy lights from the UK to Geneva Five nights B&B in a double or twin room at the boutique hotel Villa Rose Three four-course dinners at Villa Rose and two picnic lunches prepared by head chef Daniel Kyramarios Transfers to and from Geneva airport included

Head chef Daniel Kyramarios Daniel, who has Greek-Swedish heritage, has worked across Europe, including at Bernardi’s, the popular Italian restaurant in London’s Marylebone. Inspired by his travels, and Villa Rose’s stunning location, he has given the hotel an excellent reputation for its food.

HOW TO ENTER For your chance to win this fantastic prize, ill in your details online at the address below. Competition closes at 11.59pm, 5 March 2017. Terms and conditions The promoter of this competition is Immediate Media Company London Limited. Competition closes at 11.59pm, 5 March 2017. The prize includes: return lights from London to Geneva, ive nights b&b at the Villa Rose, three evening meals and two picnic lunches; and transfers to and from Geneva. The lights and accommodation must be taken in one trip, and both require 14 days’ advance booking. Travel must be taken by 30 October 2017. Travel not permitted on 9 16 April 17. Both hotels and lights are subject to availability. The prize does not include travel insurance, visas (if applicable), additional meals and refreshments, UK transfers, optional activities or spending money. The winner must be at least 18 years old and hold a valid 10-year UK passport, with six months or more remaining after return to the UK. For full terms and conditions, visit



£30 menu


Portrait MYLES NEW

Middle Eastern sharing menu


Our two food editors set themselves the task of creating a dinner party menu to feed six for under £30. Try Cassie Best’s relaxed, sharing-style dishes or Barney Desmazery’s smart three-course menu photographs STUART OVENDEN

smart three-course dinner


FEBRUARY 2017 51

Middle Eastern sharing menu Baked feta with sumac & grapes --Lemony lamb meatballs with pine nuts Chicken wings with chilli & date caramel Barley & bulghar chopped herb salad Sesame latbreads --Rhubarb Tatin


love sharing platters of no-fuss food. For this menu I’ve kept the costs down and the pressure off by using cheap cuts of meat served alongside a big grain salad and flatbreads. The dishes can all be prepared ahead too, so you can relax and entertain your guests. Cassie


Baked feta with sumac & grapes £5.56 SERVES 6 8 as a starter PREP 10 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V

1 small red onion, halved and sliced 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tsp golden caster sugar 350g red grapes, left on the stalk in small bunches 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp sumac 1 /2 small pack dill, chopped 2 x 250g blocks feta bread or sesame latbreads (p54), to serve (optional)

1 Put the red onion in a bowl and add the vinegar, sugar and a pinch of salt. Massage everything together with your fingers for 1 min – this

52 FEBRUARY 2017

will slightly pickle the onions. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. 2 Scrunch up a sheet of baking parchment and use to line a gratin dish. Add the grapes, drizzle over 1 tbsp olive oil, 1 tsp sumac, most of the dill and some seasoning, then toss everything to coat. Nestle the blocks of feta in among the grapes, then scatter over the onions and any of the pickling vinegar, the remaining oil and sumac. You can now leave in the fridge for up to 24 hrs, or bake straight away. 3 Bake for 30-35 mins until the feta is browning and the grapes look juicy. Scatter over the remaining dill, then serve in the middle of the table with bread for scooping up the cheese, grapes and juices. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • gluten free PER SERVING (8) 218 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 9g • carbs 9g • sugars 9g • ibre 1g • protein 10g • salt 1.5g

budget Lemony lamb meatballs

Sesame flatbreads

Barley & bulghar chopped herb salad

Chicken wings with chilli & date caramel FEBRUARY 2017 53

main dishes Chicken wings with chilli & date caramel £5.84 SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 45 mins EASY

1kg chicken wings 1 tbsp ground cumin 2 tsp sumac 2 tbsp plain lour 1 tbsp vegetable oil 6 dates, stoned 2 red chillis, deseeded, plus 1 thinly sliced to serve 150g light brown soft sugar 150ml red wine vinegar 2 tsp sesame seeds, toasted

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Tip the chicken wings into a large bowl and toss with the cumin, sumac, flour and plenty of seasoning. Spread out over a large baking tray, drizzle with oil and cook for 35 mins, turning halfway through cooking. 2 Meanwhile, make the glaze. Put the dates, chillis, sugar and vinegar in a food processor with 100ml water and blitz. Pour into a saucepan and bubble for 5 mins until thick and glossy. 3 Brush the glaze over the chicken wings, making sure they’re well coated, and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Return to the oven for 10 mins more, turning and brushing after 5 mins until sticky. PER SERVING 451 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 4g • carbs 48g • sugars 43g • ibre 2g • protein 24g • salt 0.8g

Sesame latbreads £1.31 MAKES 6 PREP 25 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V

300g self-raising lour, plus extra for dusting 250g natural yogurt (buy a 500g pot and save the rest for the meatballs) 4 tbsp sesame seeds 1 2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 Tip the flour into a large bowl and add 1 tsp salt. Add the yogurt, 2 tbsp water and the sesame seeds, then mix to make a dough (it’ll be quite wet). Flour the work surface and tip out the dough. Divide into six-eight pieces. Working with one

ball at a time, and keeping the others covered with a tea towel, roll into flatbreads about 0.5cm thick. 2 Heat a large griddle or frying pan until really hot. Brush one flatbread with oil, then put in the pan, oil-side down. Cook for 2-3 mins each side until bubbles appear on the surface and the underneath is brown. Turn over and cook for another 2 mins, then transfer to a plate. Continue cooking the remaining flatbreads. Wrap them in foil and keep warm in a low oven until ready to serve, or serve at room temperature. PER FLATBREAD 265 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 2g • carbs 41g • sugars 3g • ibre 3g • protein 8g • salt 1.3g

Barley & bulghar chopped herb salad £3.58 SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus 1 hr chilling COOK 25 mins EASY V

150g pearl barley 150g bulghar wheat 3 tbsp olive oil 3 white onions, halved and sliced 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 /4 tsp ground cloves small bunch each parsley, dill and mint 1 /2 cucumber, inely chopped 4 tomatoes, inely chopped 2 lemons, juiced

1 Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the barley. Cover and cook for 25 mins, or until tender. Meanwhile, pour boiling water over the bulghar wheat to just cover, and set aside. 2 Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large frying pan and add the onions. Cook for 20-25 mins, stirring regularly, until golden and caramelised. Stir in the garlic and cloves for 30 secs. 3 Drain the barley and bulghar well and tip into a bowl. Add the remaining oil, the onions, and plenty of seasoning. Mix well and chill until you’re ready to serve (up to 24 hrs ahead is fine, or at least 1 hr.) Remove from the fridge 30 mins before you want to serve. 4 Toss through the remaining ingredients and serve on a large platter or in a bowl. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • vegan • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 290 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 1g • carbs 41g • sugars 5g • ibre 7g • protein 7g • salt none

54 FEBRUARY 2017

Lemony lamb meatballs £6.96 SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus chilling COOK 10 mins EASY

100g stale white bread, blitzed to crumbs 100ml milk 600g lamb mince 2 fat lemons, zested 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp ground cumin 1 /4 tsp ground cloves small bunch coriander, stalks inely chopped and leaves picked 2 tbsp olive oil 250ml natural yogurt 1 /2 pomegranate, seeds removed

1 Put the breadcrumbs in a bowl and add the milk. Leave for 5 mins, or until the milk has been absorbed. Add the lamb, lemon zest, garlic, spices, coriander stalks and plenty of seasoning. Mix everything well with your hands, then shape into meatballs, it should make about 30. Cover and chill the meatballs for at least 30 mins, or up to 24 hrs. 2 Heat the oil in a large frying pan, or two smaller ones. Cook the meatballs for 8-10 mins, rolling them around the pan until nicely browned on all sides and cooked through. To serve, arrange the meatballs on a platter. If the yogurt is quite thick, add a drop of water or lemon juice. Drizzle it over the meatballs, then scatter the pomegranate seeds and coriander leaves on top. PER SERVING 334 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 8g • carbs 14g • sugars 6g • ibre 1g • protein 24g • salt 0.4g


dessert Rhubarb Tatin £6.12 SERVES 8 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

650g thin-stemmed forced rhubarb 100g caster sugar 2 star anise 25g butter 1 /2 lemon, juiced 320g sheet ready-rolled puff pastry ice cream, to serve

1 You’ll need a large, heavy-based ovenproof frying pan (ours was 22cm), or a Tatin pan. Using the pan as a guide, cut the rhubarb into batons to fill the pan – longer pieces look better than small pieces – then set aside. 2 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7 and tip the sugar into the frying pan. Bubble until the sugar has dissolved and turns a shade or two darker. Add the star anise, then remove from the heat and lay the rhubarb in the pan, curved-side facing down. Dot with the butter and sprinkle over the lemon juice. 3 Trim the pastry to a circle slightly larger than the pan and put it on top of the rhubarb, tucking it in around the edges. You can now chill for up to 24 hrs, or cook straight away. 4 Bake for 15-20 mins until the pastry is golden and puffed and the caramel is bubbling around the edges. Put your serving plate over the pan and carefully flip it over (be wary of the hot juices!). Serve in the middle of the table with ice cream piled on top, or cut into slices. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 240 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 7g • carbs 26g • sugars 14g • ibre 3g • protein 3g • salt 0.4g

FEBRUARY 2017 55

Smart threecourse dınner Smoked mackerel pâté with cucumber --Twice-cooked pork belly with cider sauce Crackling potato cake Burnt butter cabbage --Tea & biscuits ice cream


o keep my costs down, I’ve followed the chef’s mantra of seasonal ingredients and minimum waste. I’ve made dressings out of trimmings, and purées out of the braising veg, then dressed it all up with restaurant-style presentation for a sense of occasion. If you want to brag about how cheap this meal is, that’s up to you – but I can guarantee no one will guess. Barney


Smoked mackerel pâté with cucumber £4.97 SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins plus chilling NO COOK

1 pack smoked mackerel (about 200g) 250g tub cream cheese 2 lemons, 1 zested, both juiced small pack dill, half roughly chopped, half fronds picked 1 cucumber 4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

1 Peel and flake the mackerel and tip into a small blender with the cream cheese, lemon zest and half the lemon juice, and pulse to make a pâté. Add the chopped dill and pulse again to mix. 2 Tip the mixture into a plastic piping bag or sandwich bag, cut off the end and pipe six thick cylinders of the pâté onto a baking tray and put in the freezer to harden for about 1 hr. 56 FEBRUARY 2017

3 Remove a strip of peel from the cucumber – it’s easiest with a swivel peeler, but a normal one also works – then peel 12 neat ribbons off the cucumber. Do not throw away any of the seeds or the peelings. Dice any remaining flesh, cover and put in the fridge ready to use later. Use the neat ribbons to wrap around the pâté and put in the fridge. Can be made up to 1 day ahead. 4 Tip the cucumber peelings and seeds into a blender or smoothie maker with the rest of the lemon juice, the olive oil and some seasoning. Blitz to make a thick dressing, then chill. Can be made 1 day ahead and kept in the fridge. 5 To serve, pour a little dressing onto each plate, sit a cucumberwrapped pâté on top, neatly scatter the diced cucumber and dill fronds, and drizzle over more olive oil. GOOD TO KNOW omega-3 • 1 of 5-a-day • good for you • gluten free PER SERVING 283 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 9g • carbs 2g • sugars 2g • ibre 1g • protein 10g • salt 0.9g


main course Twice-cooked pork belly with cider sauce Crackling potato cake Burnt-butter cabbage FEBRUARY 2017 57

Crackling potato cake £1.99 SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 30 mins MORE EFFORT

1.2kg Maris Piper potatoes 50g butter, melted pork skin (from the pork belly, right)

1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 8. Cut a circle of baking parchment to fit the base of a 20-23cm ovenproof frying pan. Using a mandolin or sharp knife, slice the potatoes as thinly as possible. Pour a little of the butter over the parchment on the base and neatly overlap slices of the potato on the first layer. Then pile on one-third of the remaining potatoes, season, drizzle with a little butter and repeat until all the potatoes are used. 2 Put the pork skin, skin-side up, on top of the potatoes and roast everything for 1 hr 30 mins until the crackling is crispy and the potatoes are really crisp and golden. Set the crackling aside, turn the potatoes out onto a tray or board and serve the crackling on top. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 429 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 11g • carbs 37g • sugars 2g • ibre 4g • protein 9g • salt 0.2g

Burnt butter cabbage 70p SERVES 6 PREP 2 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

Remove the outer leaves of 1 pointed cabbage and cut it into six wedges. Heat 25g butter in a large frying pan until starting to brown, add the cabbage and cook until burnt on one side. Add more butter to the pan if you need to and use tongs to turn the cabbage and burn on the other side. Season with sea salt and serve. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 69 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 2g • carbs 4g • sugars 4g • ibre 4g • protein 3g • salt 0.1g

dessert Tea & biscuits ice cream £2.94


There are just five ingredients in this restaurant-standard dessert.

2kg piece boneless and skinless pork belly (ask your butcher to keep the skin for the crackling potato cake, left) 2 tbsp fennel seeds 5 dried bay leaves 25g butter 2 onions, roughly chopped 3 carrots, roughly chopped 400ml cider 1 tbsp vegetable oil

SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins plus infusing and freezing COOK 2 mins MORE EFFORT G

1 The day before you want to eat, lay the pork belly skinned-side down, season generously, scatter over the fennel seeds and crumble over 3 of the bay leaves. From the widest side, roll into a tight log and use some butcher’s string to tie at regular intervals. (You could take some fennel seeds and bay to your butcher and ask them to do it for you.) 2 Heat oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 31/2. Melt the butter in a large, shallow flameproof casserole dish or ovenproof sauté pan. Brown the pork all over (this will take a good 15 mins), then remove from the pan and add the vegetables and remaining bay leaves. Cook for about 10 mins until starting to colour. Nestle the pork among the veg. Pour over the cider and bring everything to a simmer, cover and cook in the oven for 2 hrs. 3 When the pork is ready, leave to cool a bit, then remove the pork from the braise and chill. Strain the sauce into a jug and chill. Fish out the bay leaves and blitz the veg to a purée in a food processor. Tip into a bowl and chill. 4 On the day, heat oven to 220C/ 200C fan/gas 8. Cut the pork into six rounds. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the pork, then put in the oven for 20 mins, turning halfway through, until crispy. Meanwhile, remove the solidified fat from the top of the braising juices, simmer until syrupy and reheat the purée. Serve everything in the middle of the table or smear some of the purée across plate, sit a piece of pork on top next to a burnt butter cabbage wedge, a piece of potato cake and some crackling (see left). Pour over some of the sauce and serve. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 536 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 13g • carbs 9g • sugars 8g • ibre 3g • protein 37g • salt 0.4g

58 FEBRUARY 2017

For the ice cream 300ml double cream 3 Earl Grey teabags 500g pot fresh custard For the biscuits 150g golden caster sugar 6 digestive biscuits, crushed into crumbs

1 Bring half the cream to the boil in a small saucepan with the teabags and leave to infuse, gently pressing the teabags against the side of the pan to release all the flavour and turn the cream a milky tea colour. Leave to cool completely, then give the teabags a final squeeze before removing them. Pour the cream into a bowl with the custard and mix together. 2 Lightly whisk the remaining cream and fold through the custard mixture. If you have an ice cream machine, use it, or freeze the mixture, whisking well every couple of hours until completely frozen. Can be made a month in advance. Remove from the freezer and put in the fridge 1 hr before serving to soften. 3 For the biscuits, heat a frying pan until very hot, scatter over the sugar and cook to golden caramel. Scatter over and stir in the biscuit crumbs. Immediately tip onto a tray lined with baking parchment and leave to harden. Break into small pieces and tip into a food processor, then blitz until the texture of rough crumbs again. Can be made 3 days ahead and kept in an airtight container. 4 To serve, put a pile of crumbs in the middle of each plate and top with a quenelle or scoop of ice cream. PER SCOOP 185 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 7g • carbs 18g • sugars 14g • ibre none • protein 2g • salt 0.1g

Food styling JANE HORNBY Styling SARAH BIRKS

Twice-cooked pork belly with cider sauce £11.63


FEBRUARY 2017 59

Family meals

Friday night fakeaways These homemade versions of our favourite takeaways are simple to make – plus they’re healthier and cheaper recipes JENNIFER JOYCE photographs SAM STOWELL

Singapore noodles with prawns, p64 62 FEBRUARY 2017

easiest ever

Butter chicken The chicken can be marinated the day before so you can get ahead. Any leftovers keep well and can be reheated. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins plus at least 1 hr marinating COOK 35 mins EASY

500g boneless and skinless chicken thighs For the marinade 1 lemon, juiced 2 tsp each ground cumin and paprika 1 2 tsp hot chilli powder 200g natural yogurt For the curry 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 large onion, chopped 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 green chilli, deseeded and inely chopped (optional) thumb-sized piece ginger, grated 1 tsp garam masala 2 tsp ground fenugreek 3 tbsp tomato purée 300ml chicken stock 50g laked almonds, toasted To serve (optional) cooked basmati rice naan bread mango chutney or lime pickle fresh coriander lime wedges

1 In a medium bowl, mix all the marinade ingredients with some seasoning. Chop the chicken into bite-sized pieces and toss with the marinade. Cover and chill in the fridge for 1 hr or overnight. 2 In a large, heavy saucepan, heat the oil. Add the onion, garlic, green chilli, ginger and some seasoning. Fry on a medium heat for 10 mins or until soft. 3 Add the spices with the tomato purée, cook for a further 2 mins until fragrant, then add the stock and marinated chicken. Cook for 15 mins, then add any remaining marinade left in the bowl. Simmer for 5 mins, then sprinkle with the toasted almonds. Serve with rice, naan bread, chutney, coriander and lime wedges, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 367 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 3g • carbs 12g • sugars 10g • ibre 3g • protein 37g • salt 0.6g

FEBRUARY 2017 63

Singapore noodles with prawns You’ll have this on the table in half the time it takes a delivery to arrive. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

2 nests thin rice vermicelli noodles 1 tbsp light soy sauce 1 tbsp oyster sauce 2 tsp mild curry powder 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 red chilli, thinly sliced (deseeded if you don’t like it too hot)

Turkish kebabs with tomato chilli sauce These can be marinated the day before, plus you can cook them individually if some of your family need to eat at separate times. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus at least 1 hr marinating COOK 15 mins EASY

2 garlic cloves 200g Greek yogurt 1 lemon, juiced 2 tsp tomato purée 2 tsp each crushed chilli lakes (Aleppo are nice) and sumac 4 chicken breasts, cut into chunks 300g baby plum tomatoes 1 thumb-sized red chilli, stem removed 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 small red onion, sliced 1 tbsp pomegranate molasses

64 FEBRUARY 2017

thumb-sized piece ginger, grated 1 medium onion, sliced 1 yellow or red pepper, cut into thin batons 4 spring onions, cut in half lengthways then into thin batons 8 raw king prawns 1 large egg, beaten coriander leaves, to serve

1 Soak the rice noodles in warm water for 5 mins until softened but still al dente. Drain and set aside. 2 In a small bowl, mix together the soy, oyster sauce and curry powder.

To serve 4 Middle Eastern latbreads long pickled chillis (guindillas) a handful each fresh coriander and lat-leaf parsley

1 Crush 1 garlic clove and mix with 3 tbsp yogurt, the lemon juice, 1 tsp tomato purée, half the spices, and some seasoning in a medium bowl. Add the chicken, toss, cover and chill in the fridge for at least 1 hr or overnight. 2 Make the chilli sauce. Put 100g of the tomatoes, the whole red chilli, the remaining spices, garlic clove and tomato purée, plus 1 tbsp olive oil, half the red onion and the pomegranate molasses in a food processor. Add some seasoning and pulse until puréed, then set aside. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6, and heat a griddle pan. Thread the

3 In a large wok, add half the oil and fry the garlic, chilli and ginger until golden, about 2 mins. Add the remaining oil, onion, pepper, spring onions, prawns and noodles and stir-fry for a few mins. Push everything to one side, add the egg and scramble. Add the soy sauce mixture, toss again for a few more mins, then remove from the heat. Sprinkle over the coriander leaves before serving. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • ibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 411 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 2g • carbs 54g • sugars 10g • ibre 6g • protein 23g • salt 2.6g

chicken onto metal skewers or wooden ones that have been soaked, then wipe off the excess marinade. Skewer the remaining tomatoes on a separate skewer. Lightly oil the griddle with the remaining olive oil and brown the chicken on both sides, then transfer to a baking tray and bake in the oven for 10 mins, or until cooked through. Meanwhile, griddle the tomatoes for 1-2 mins, turning halfway through so they have griddle marks on both sides. 4 Serve the chicken and tomatoes on flatbreads with the remaining red onion, pickled chillis, the remaining Greek yogurt, parsley and coriander with the chilli sauce spooned over. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 276 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 5g • carbs 7g • sugars 6g • ibre 2g • protein 34g • salt 0.4g

easiest ever

FEBRUARY 2017 65

easiest ever

Fish & chips with coconut batter and tartare sauce For ease we’ve shallow-fried the fish, but it’s still crispy like a takeaway. Try it sprinkled with our salt & vinegar seasoning on p137. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

1 Cut the fish into four equalsized pieces. Season and dust with 2 tsp of the flour. In a medium bowl, whisk the remaining flour, egg, coconut milk and baking powder with some salt until you have a smooth, thick batter. Add a little more coconut milk if your mixture is particularly stiff. 2 In a small bowl, mix together the tartare sauce ingredients and set aside. 3 Pour vegetable oil into a large wok to a depth of 2cm and heat – it’s hot enough when a small piece of bread browns in 20 secs. Fry the fish in batches, dipping each piece into the batter, then gently lowering into the oil. Fry for 2-3 mins until golden, turning once. Drain on kitchen paper, then put in a low oven to keep warm while you fry the rest. 4 Serve the fish with the chips, peas, tartare and lemon wedges. PER SERVING 551 kcals • fat 38g • saturates 9g • carbs 18g • sugars 3g • ibre 1g • protein 32g • salt 1.0g

66 FEBRUARY 2017


600g boneless and skinless illet of cod loin 75g plain lour 1 egg 100ml coconut milk, plus a little extra if needed 1 tsp baking powder vegetable oil, for frying For the tartare sauce 3 tbsp mayonnaise 3 tbsp Greek yogurt 4 small or 2 large cornichons, chopped 1 tbsp capers, drained 1 tbsp chopped dill 2 tbsp chopped lat-leaf parsley To serve oven-baked chips cooked peas 2 lemons, quartered

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Start smart Let Alpro help you to make a plant-based change to your breakfasts, so you can enjoy a lot more choice


hat kind of a breakfaster are you? Do you like to hit the gym first thing, then top-up with something protein-based straight after your workout? Maybe you’re a habitual office breakfaster who always eats a bowl of porridge at your desk? Whatever your morning routine, you’ve probably got it down to a fine art, but it only takes a small change with Alpro’s great-tasting and healthy* plant-based range to liven things up a bit. Try a deliciously healthy** splash of Alpro Almond Unsweetened drink with granola and raisins. Enjoy muesli with a sprinkle of pumpkin seeds and rich in plant protein Alpro Soya Original drink or Alpro Plain with Coconut soya alternative to yogurt. Or why not just try adding a little fibre-rich Alpro Oat Original drink to porridge and sprinkle with chopped nuts? No matter your style, a plant-based twist with Alpro can inspire you to get more out of breakfast. Get started with this simple and tasty recipe using carrots – perfect if you like to eat on the go.

Carrot cake muffins MAKES 12 � PREP 10 mins � COOK 25-30 mins � EASY

300g plain wholemeal flour 2 tsp baking powder 2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger zest 1 orange, finely grated 2 large eggs 250ml Alpro Oat Original drink 125ml sunflower oil 1 tsp vanilla essence 100ml maple syrup 100g grated carrot 65g raisins Alpro Plain with Almond plant-based alternative to yogurt, to serve (optional)

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and line a 12-hole muffin tin with cases. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, spices and orange zest. In a jug, whisk together the eggs, Alpro Oat Original, oil, vanilla and maple syrup. Stir into the dry ingredients, along with the grated carrot and raisins. 2 Divide the mixture evenly between the cases, bake for 25-30 mins until a skewer poked into the muffins comes out clean. Leave to cool on a wire rack. Eat as they are or topped with a dollop of Alpro Plain with Almond.

TIP For a tasty twist, try this with Alpro Soya Original drink or Alpro Almond Unsweetened drink

For more tasty recipes, plus nutritional information, visit


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easiest ever

Dinner dash

Noodles Keep quick-to-cook noodles in the storecupboard for speedy suppers recipes ESTHER CLARK photographs MIKE ENGLISH

Veg-packed noodle & egg bowls



Boil the eggs for 6 mins, then set aside in cold water. Cook the noodles following pack instructions, drain and toss with 1 tbsp sunflower oil. Heat another 1 tbsp oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the veg for 5 mins. Heat the noodles through with the veg and sauce, and season. Peel the eggs and cut in half. Divide the noodles between bowls and top each with the eggs. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 510 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 3g • carbs 59g • sugars 14g • ibre 7g • protein 21g • salt 1.8g

2 medium eggs

125g dried medium egg noodles

= 200g stir-fry vegetables


Sweet potato noodle soup

GOOD TO KNOW ibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 683 kcals • fat 43g • saturates 30g • carbs 59g • sugars 20g • ibre 10g • protein 9g • salt 0.4g

120g pouch stir-fry sauce



Toss the veg with 2 tbsp sunflower oil and 2 tbsp curry powder in a roasting tin. Cook at 200C/180C fan/gas 6 for 30 mins. Blend the veg with the coconut milk and 100ml water until smooth, then season. Cook the noodles in boiling water for 2 mins. Drain, chop and toss with 1 tbsp curry powder. Heat 2cm of oil in a frying pan until hot. Fry the noodles for 11/2 mins until crunchy. Drain and season with salt. Heat the soup and serve topped with noodles.


3 x 350g bags prepared sweet potato and butternut squash

+ 3 tbsp curry powder


+ 2 x 400g cans coconut milk

1 nest dried medium egg noodles

Teriyaki pork meatballs




Cook the noodles following pack instructions. Add 2 tbsp sunflower oil to a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the meatballs for 3 mins or until golden brown all over. Lower the heat and cook for 6 mins more. Quarter the pak choi, raise the heat, add the pak choi and cook for 3 mins. Stir through the teriyaki sauce and toss everything together with the drained noodles. Divide between bowls and serve. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • folate • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 448 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 4g • carbs 50g • sugars 6g • ibre 5g • protein 26g • salt 3.8g

250g dried medium egg noodles

+ 12 fresh pork meatballs

= + 300g pak choi

6 tbsp teriyaki sauce

FEBRUARY 2017 69

Alessandra Peters, 18, started her gluten-, dairy- and sugar-free blog (thefoodieteen. com) when she was diagnosed with coeliac disease and other food intolerances. She taught herself how to cook with fresh ingredients and wants to inspire her followers to do the same. Her cookbook, The Foodie Teen, was published last year. @thefoodieteen @thefoodieteen

Alessandra’s fajita sweet potatoes Continuing our series designed to get a whole new generation cooking, blogger Alessandra Peters shares her recipe for a simple, crowd-pleasing dinner photograph TOM REGESTER

Baked sweet potatoes with steak fajita illing This recipe is super-easy. I love that it’s all made using natural ingredients – it’ll show your friends and family that healthy eating doesn’t have to be difficult or expensive. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 50 mins EASY

4 sweet potatoes 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to rub on the potatoes juice 1 lime 2 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp each garlic powder and ground cumin 500g lean steak, cut into medium-sized strips 2 onions, thinly sliced 4 peppers (a mixture of red, orange and yellow), thinly sliced small handful coriander, chopped 2 avocados, halved, stoned and peeled

70 FEBRUARY 2017

1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Wash the sweet potatoes, prick them with a fork all over, then rub with a little olive oil and season generously. Wrap each potato in tin foil and bake on a baking tray for 45-55 mins until soft. 2 To make the marinade, put the lime juice, chilli powder, garlic powder, cumin, 1 tbsp olive oil and a generous pinch of seasoning in a bowl. Mix everything together, then pour half the marinade into a second bowl. Add the steak to one of the bowls and mix well. Add the onions and peppers to the other bowl and mix to ensure everything is evenly coated. Cover both bowls in cling film and chill in the fridge until needed. 3 When the sweet potatoes have about 20 mins left to cook, heat the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and pepper mixture, cook for 12-15 mins, stirring often, until they go soft and start to glisten and brown, then tip onto a plate. Wipe the pan clean with some kitchen paper, add the steak and cook for 3-5 mins, stirring

often. Add the onions and peppers back to the pan for a few mins before serving, then remove from the heat and stir through most of the coriander. 4 Mash the avocado in a bowl with a fork. Add a good pinch of salt and the rest of the coriander. 5 To serve, halve each sweet potato lengthways, mash the insides with a fork, then top with a spoonful of the steak fajita mixture and a dollop of mashed avocado. Enjoy! GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 4 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 578 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 7g • carbs 39g • sugars 24g • ibre 13g • protein 32g • salt 0.5g

Last month, Izy Hossack shared her recipe for burnt aubergine chilli – ind the recipe at

Next month: Niomi Smart shares her tagine recipe


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FEBRUARY 2017 71

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easiest ever

Use it up

Bought a special ingredient to use in one of our other recipes? Here are four ways to help you use it up recipes SOPHIE GODWIN and ELENA SILCOCK photographs PETE CASSIDY

FEBRUARY 2017 73

easiest ever

Chorizo & chilli pepper pasta

Lime marmalade chicken

Another way to use up the guindilla pickled chilli peppers – also in the Turkish kebabs on page 64.

Another use for the lime marmalade in the chocolate & lime cake on page 94. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins EASY

200g penne 1 /2 tbsp olive oil 100g chorizo, skin removed and cut into chunks 400g can cherry tomatoes 2 3 guindilla pickled chilli peppers, sliced on an angle 1 /2 small pack basil, leaves picked and roughly torn Parmesan, grated, to serve

1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the pasta, give it a good stir, then cook for 1 min less than pack instructions, about 9-10 mins. 2 Heat the oil in a sauté pan over a high heat. Add the chorizo and cook for a couple of mins until the oils have

been released, then add the tomatoes, a pinch of sugar and some seasoning. Bubble away for 5 mins, then drain the pasta, toss it through the sauce and stir in the peppers and basil. Serve with a generous grating of parmesan scattered over. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 684 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 7g • carbs 89g • sugars 12g • ibre 7g • protein 28g • salt 1.9g

8 skin-on chicken thighs 2 tbsp oil 100g lime marmalade 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 red chilli, inely chopped, deseeded if you don’t like it too hot 1 tsp ground allspice 1 /2 tsp dried oregano sweet potato wedges, lime wedges and salad, to serve (optional)

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Put the thighs in a roasting tin and roast for 30 mins. 2 Meanwhile, mix the oil, marmalade, garlic, chilli, allspice, oregano and some seasoning to make a marinade. Remove the thighs from the

Matcha & white chocolate blondies

Pistachio & black cherry Bakewell tarts

Add matcha to this easy bake – it’s also in the matcha madeleines on page 98.

Use up the pistachio paste that’s also in the pistachio sponge on page 112.

MAKES 9 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY

SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins EASY

140g butter, plus extra for greasing 200g white chocolate 220g golden caster sugar 2 large eggs 85g plain lour 1 tbsp matcha tea powder 50g blanched hazelnuts, toasted

100g golden caster sugar 100g butter, softened at room temperature 2 large eggs 60g pistachio paste 25g plain lour 90g ground almonds 150g black cherry jam 1 large ready-made cooked pastry case crème fraîche, to serve (optional)

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Grease and line a 20cm square tin with baking parchment. Cut 100g of the chocolate into chunks and put to one side. Melt the butter with the remaining chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water, then remove from the heat and beat in the sugar. Leave to

cool to room temperature, then beat in the eggs one at a time. Fold the flour and matcha through the mixture and gently stir through the hazelnuts and chunks of white chocolate. 2 Bake for 25-30 mins – you want it to be a bit gooey. Allow to cool, cut into squares and serve. PER BLONDIE 419 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 13g • carbs 45g • sugars 37g • ibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 0.4g

74 FEBRUARY 2017

1 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/ gas 3. First, make a frangipane. Beat the sugar and butter until light and fluffy, then beat in the eggs one at a time. Add the pistachio paste, flour and almonds and mix well.

oven and brush all over with the marinade. Return to the oven and roast for another 20 mins until crispy and golden. Serve with some sweet potato wedges, lime wedges and salad, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 466 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 7g • carbs 16g • sugars 16g • ibre none • protein 32g • salt 0.3g

2 Spread the black cherry jam over the base of the pastry case, top with the frangipane mixture and bake for 25-30 mins. Leave to cool completely, then serve with crème fraîche, if you like. PER SERVING 619 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 13g • carbs 59g • sugars 40g • ibre 2g • protein 11g • salt 0.6g


SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

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that won’t break the bank Enjoy exclusive discounts on top-quality wines with the Good Food Wine Club. Choosing wine to complement your food adds to the pleasure of both. Here, Henry Jeffreys highlights two wines from the case and suggests a pairing with this month’s recipes Château Le Coin Bordeaux 2015

The man behind this wine is Jack Bruce, from South Africa’s Flagstone winery. He excels in finding excellentquality grapes at reasonable prices, to produce wines that offer stunning value for money. No wonder he was South Africa’s wine maker of the year in 2009. Did you know? The chenin blanc grape is originally from the Loire, but it is now very much South Africa’s own. Much of it was planted to make brandy, but these days it is used to produce richly flavoured dry wines like this one, with its notes of honey, bruised apples and cinnamon. A good match The Rustler has a proper weight to it, and would be superb with either the Turkish kebabs with tomato chilli sauce (below left) on page 64 or the butter chicken on page 63.

Critics are hailing the 2015 vintage in Bordeaux as the best since the now legendary 2010. The leading châteaux are selling for thousands of pounds a case. But the great thing about a vintage like 2015 is that the affordable wines, such as this Château Le Coin from the Entredeux-Mers region, are also extra delicious. The taste The fruit – mainly merlot in this case – becomes even riper than normal, so along with all those savoury flavours of leather and herbs that claret lovers appreciate, you’ll find a voluptuous fruitiness of blackcurrants and plums throughout. A good match This is a great Sunday lunch wine and would be particularly delicious with the marinated lamb leg, romanesco & pickled walnuts (below right) on page 102.

Portrait and main photograph DAVID COTSWORTH

Henry Jeffreys is our wine expert and, along with the BBC Good Food team, tasted his way through over 100 wines to choose our Wine Club selection. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldo His irst book, Empire of Booze, is out now. Find Henry’s tasting notes, including food pairings, for all the selected wines at wine-club.

The Rustler Chenin Blanc 2016



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2010 or call 03300 242 855 quoting code RNV1A. BBC Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaite’s. Terms and conditions Introductory offer – new customers (18 years or over) only. One case per household. No further discounts applicable. Free delivery (usually £7.99). Offer ends 30/4/17. Delivery within three working days (except Northern Ireland and the Scottish Highlands). YOUR FUTURE CASES: Every four, eight or 12 weeks, you will be noti ied of the next wine plan selection, which you will automatically receive unless

you request otherwise. You will be charged the appropriate sum for each delivery. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites. Visit for full terms and conditions. Laithwaite’s Wine is part of Direct Wines Ltd. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire RG7 4SW.

FEBRUARY 2017 77

78 FEBRUARY 2017


Joe’s low-carb dinner The online nutrition coach creates a lean version of a classic recipe that’s simple and satisfying recipe JOE WICKS photograph MIKE ENGLISH


his month I’m sharing one of my reduced-carbohydrate meals. I recommend having three meals a day – two low-carb dishes and one carb refuel meal to eat after training. Designed to fit in with your day, this recipe will work for either lunch or dinner, depending on when you do your workout.

Mediterranean turkeystuffed peppers This is an oldie, but a goldie. Filling the peppers with low-fat turkey breast mince keeps this dish lean.


SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins EASY

2 red peppers (about 220g) 11/2 tbsp olive oil, plus an extra drizzle 240g lean turkey breast mince (under 8% fat) 1 /2 small onion, chopped 1 garlic clove, grated 1 tsp ground cumin 3 4 mushrooms, sliced 400g can chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 chicken stock cube handful fresh oregano leaves 60g mozzarella, grated 150g green vegetables (spinach, kale, broccoli, mangetout or green beans), to serve

1 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Halve the peppers lengthways, then remove the seeds and core but keep the stalks on. Rub the peppers with a drizzle of olive oil and season well. Put on a baking tray and roast for 15 mins. 2 Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large pan over a medium heat. Fry the mince for 2-3 mins, stirring to break up the chunks, then tip onto a plate. 3 Wipe out your pan, then heat the rest of the oil over a medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic, stir-fry for 2-3 mins, then add the cumin and mushrooms and cook for 2-3 mins more. 4 Tip the mince back into the pan and add the chopped tomatoes and tomato purée. Crumble in the stock cube and cook for 3-4 mins, then add the oregano and season. Remove the peppers from the oven and fill them with as much of the mince as you can. (Don’t worry if some spills out it – it will go satisfyingly crisp in the oven.) Top with the cheese and return to the oven for 10-15 mins until the cheese starts to turn golden. 5 Carefully slide the peppers onto a plate and serve alongside a pile of your favourite greens blanched, boiled or steamed. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • folate • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 403 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 6g • carbs 15g • sugars 14g • ibre 5g • protein 40g • salt 1.9g

Good Food contributing editor Joe Wicks is a former personal trainer with an Instagram following of more than 1.6 million. His #Leanin15 videos focus on quick, easy cooking, while his 90-day SSS (shift, shape and sustain) plan has inspired people nationwide with a programme of healthy recipes and workouts. @thebodycoach

& Joe’s book, Lean in 15: The Sustain Plan, and DVD, The Body Coach: Lean in 15, are out now. For more recipes and ideas to get you lean and healthy, sign up for a bespoke 90 Day SSS plan at

Next month: Lean turkey burger with sweet potato wedges

FEBRUARY 2017 79

budget superfood swaps Eating well on a budget can be challenging. Here we show how to get the nutritional bene its of often overpriced superfoods at a fraction of the cost words SARAH LIENARD recipes SOPHIE GODWIN nutritional analysis KERRY TORRENS photographs SAM STOWELL



…FOR Both these leafy greens are rich in chlorophyll, amino acids and vitamins C, E, B and K. They also contain beta-carotenes, as well as lutein and zeaxanthin (for eye health). But rocket also provides glucosinolates, which help to protect against cancer. Try our recipe, opposite.




Maca root powder and purple sprouting broccoli both come from the cruciferous vegetable family (as do cauli lower and cabbage) and are rich in anti-cancer compounds, as well as calcium, magnesium, iron and vitamin E. Including cruciferous veg regularly in your diet will help to balance hormones, especially oestrogen, and support energy levels. Try our recipe, overleaf.


These are both rich in antioxidants, which protect us from the damaging effects of day-to-day stressors and also help to regulate blood pressure and boost circulation. They are a source of ibre, potassium, vitamin C and B vitamins, including heart-friendly folate. The beetroot leaves are also a good source of vitamin K. Try our recipe at beetroot-falafel.



Both berries contain protective antioxidants, including anthocyanins, which are good for your heart and have anti-ageing properties. They also supply carotenoids, including beta-carotene, which the body converts to vitamin A for healthy skin, eyes and a strong immune system; and lycopene, which protects the skin against UV damage. Try our recipe at



These saturated fats are stable at high temperatures, making them good choices for high-temperature cooking. However, like all fats, they should be consumed in moderation. Butter supplies some of the useful fats (medium-chain triglycerides) that coconut oil is famed for (although at lower levels). Try our buttered sweetcorn & squash recipe at


80 FEBRUARY 2017



o-called ‘superfoods’ can be expensive, but you don’t need to splash the cash to eat a healthy and balanced diet. While there is no single ‘miracle’ food that will give you all the nutrition you need, these cheaper, everyday ingredients are a great way to give your body a nutritional boost. They have a similar nutritional profile to their more costly counterparts.


Roasted carrot, rocket & lentil salad SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V

300g carrots, peeled and sliced lengthways 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 /2 tsp cumin seeds 1 lemon, zested and juiced 1 /2 tsp honey


/2 tsp wholegrain mustard 250g ready-cooked lentils 1 /4 cucumber, chopped 80g rocket, washed 1 avocado, sliced 50g feta, crumbled

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Toss the carrots in 1 tbsp oil, the cumin seeds and some seasoning. Spread out on a baking tray and roast for 30-35 mins

until soft and charred around the edges. 2 Meanwhile, whisk together the remaining oil, the lemon zest and juice, honey and mustard. Once the carrots are cooked, stir through all the remaining ingredients, then toss through the dressing to serve. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • ibre • 4 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 596 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 8g • carbs 40g • sugars 14g • ibre 18g • protein 22g • salt 2.1g

FEBRUARY 2017 81


Sesame salmon, purple sprouting broccoli & sweet potato mash SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY

1 tbsp sesame oil 1 tbsp low-salt soy sauce thumb-sized piece ginger, grated

1 garlic clove, crushed 1 tsp honey 2 sweet potatoes, scrubbed and cut into wedges 1 lime, cut into wedges 2 boneless skinless salmon illets 250g purple sprouting broccoli 1 tbsp sesame seeds 1 red chilli, thinly sliced (deseeded if you don’t like it too hot)

1 Heat oven to 200C/180 fan/ gas 6 and line a baking tray with parchment. Mix together 1/2 tbsp sesame oil, the soy, ginger, garlic and honey. Put the sweet potato wedges, skin and all, into a glass bowl with the lime wedges. Cover with cling film and microwave on high for 12-14 mins until completely soft. 2 Meanwhile, spread the broccoli and salmon out on the baking tray. Spoon over the marinade and season. Roast in the oven for 10-12 mins, then sprinkle over the sesame seeds. 3 Remove the lime wedges and roughly mash the sweet potato using a fork. Mix in the remaining sesame oil, the chilli and some seasoning. Divide between plates, along with the salmon and broccoli. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • omega-3 • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 463 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 4g • carbs 29g • sugars 15g • ibre 10g • protein 32g • salt 1.1g

82 FEBRUARY 2017



You could be one click away from that award-winning shot

The world’s leading awards recognising the art and diversity of food TLSXSKVETL]ERH½PQ Open to all, amateur and professional

Closes 5 February 2017

MasterChef makeover

Chicken noodle soup

This month, BBC MasterChef judge John Torode serves up an aromatic revamp of a favourite Good Food comfort soup photograph TOM REGESTER

Good Food contributing editor John Torode, the chef, food writer and TV presenter, has been a judge on BBC One’s MasterChef for 11 years. Each month he reinvents one of the most popular recipes from our website. @JohnTorode1

Asian chicken noodle soup This is more noodles and less soup, the way they do it in Asia. The broth should be strong and steaming hot. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 15 mins EASY If you’ve tried our original Chicken noodle soup ( chicken-noodle-soup), why not give John’s version a go and see which you prefer – and let us know. Drop us a line at the usual address on page 153. Find more of John’s recipes at

84 FEBRUARY 2017

4 skinless and boneless chicken breasts 60ml sake (if you don’t have sake, use vodka) thumb-sized piece ginger, peeled and sliced into matchsticks

3 spring onions, inely sliced on the diagonal, and white and green parts separated 150ml soy sauce 4 tsp sesame oil 2 garlic cloves, grated 600g thick white noodles (such as udon) 2 large long red Serrano chillies, seeds left in and sliced on the diagonal 1 large egg, beaten small pack coriander 2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds seaweed lakes, to serve (optional)

1 Slice the chicken breasts into strips about 1cm wide and the full length of the breast. Briefly marinate the chicken in the sake and leave to one side for a few mins. 2 Mix the ginger with the whites of the spring onions, soy sauce, sesame oil and garlic. 3 Put 2 litres of water in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Pour in the ginger soy mixture, reduce the heat and cook just below a simmer for 5 mins. 4 Add the chicken and sake mix, noodles and chillies to the stock and turn the heat up. As soon as the broth comes to the boil, turn off the heat. Slowly pour the egg into the broth, stirring all the time. Add the green parts of the spring onions and stir through. Leave to sit for 2 mins. 5 Ladle the soup evenly into six bowls. Sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds and coriander, with a few seaweed flakes, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal PER SERVING 297 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 29g • sugars 5g • ibre 3g • protein 28g • salt 3.8g



hen I think chicken noodle soup, my culinary brain is always transported to Eastern Europe, where chicken soup is both a medicinal and celebratory dish. The Hungarians drop in little dumplings, while Jewish cooks add short vermicelli. This makeover, however, is all about South-east Asia, which is a joy because trying to make Jewish ‘penicillin’ any better would be almost impossible. Great Asian noodle broths are different to stocks. They are not boiled, but are instead gently infused, releasing the flavour of all the aromatics – similar to making a proper pot of tea. I love Asian noodles, so I’ve taken the liberty of using oodles of them. Make double the amount if you can, because it’s great heated up at this time of year for the kids after school – and because it’s chicken soup, it’s simply so good for you.


FEBRUARY 2017 85


! s e u l b e h t t a e B

A special collection for you and your family from the team behind BBC Good Food

Low-cal mackerel supper

Veggie pesto pasta

Lighter Victoria sandwich

Out n�! C�lect �r oth� �eat titles... Visit the Apple App store to download digital issues in the Home Cooking Series, including One-pots, Vegetarian Summer, Good Food Family and Bakes & Cakes HOME COOKING SERIES

Triple-tested recipes from BBC Good Food


diet plan

Prawn one-pot

If you’ve just started our new diet plan, which launched last month, this satisfying supper makes a great addition to it. If you missed it, you can catch up online recipe SARA BUENFELD photograph MIKE ENGLISH

Prawn jambalaya This nourishing dish is a winner. It’s low-fat, low-calorie, and provides 4 of your 5-a-day – plus it’s all made in one pan! SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 35 mins EASY


1 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 onion, chopped 3 celery sticks, sliced 100g wholegrain basmati rice 1 tsp mild chilli powder 1 tbsp ground coriander 1 /2 tsp fennel seeds 400g can chopped tomatoes 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 1 yellow pepper, roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves 150g pack small prawns, thawed if frozen 3 tbsp chopped parsley

1 Heat the oil in a large, deep frying pan. Add the onion and celery, and fry for 5 mins to soften. Add the rice and spices, and pour in the tomatoes with just under 1 can of water. Stir in the bouillon powder, pepper, garlic and thyme. 2 Cover the pan with a lid and simmer for 30 mins until the rice is tender and almost all the liquid has been absorbed. Stir in the prawns and parsley, cook briefly to heat through, then serve. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • ibre • vit c • iron • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 396 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 55g • sugars 15g • ibre 9g • protein 20g • salt 1.3g

To follow our healthy diet plan, visit diet-plan-january-2017

FEBRUARY 2017 87

A delicious new season Get set for spring… isit the BBC Good Food Show for a delicious day out in the beautiful spa town of Harrogate this May.


Pick up top tips on the Interview Stage, get your cookbooks signed, and maybe even snap a selfie!

Join a stellar line up of your favourite chefs and experts including Tom Kerridge, Michel Roux Jr and more, all cooking seasonal dishes live in the stunning Edwardian theatre.

Plus, discover, sample and shop from a huge range of Yorkshire’s finest food and drink producers. Harrogate tickets on sale now. Save 20%* - quote GFR3.

Join us as a VIP Get the best seats in the Supertheatre, VIP Lounge access, a cookbook and more with our VIP package. Or upgrade to a VIP Box for Two and enjoy a private box in the Supertheatre, glass of izz, plus a sweet treat from Betty’s Tea Rooms.

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Summer inspiration Join us this June…


iscover the flavours of summer as the BBC Good Food Show returns to Birmingham’s NEC. Be inspired by some of the UK’s top chefs including Tom Kerridge, Mary Berry, Michel Roux Jr, Nadiya Hussain and more bringing their favourite dishes to life in our exclusive Supertheatre. Hear more from the experts in live interviews on the BBC Good Food Stage, and kick start the season with recipe ideas in the Summer Kitchen. Shop for tasty ingredients and gourmet goodies from independent producers, plus pick up everything you need for al fresco entertaining. Birmingham tickets on sale now. Save 20%* - quote GFR3.




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Star ingredient

Chocolate Searching for the ultimate Valentine’s treat? Look no further – homemade cake, cookies and a new twist on chocolate mousse will hit the spot recipes DIANA HENRY photographs TOM REGESTER

Chocolate & lime cake, p94

90 FEBRUARY 2017

be inspired

Chocolate ganache with sea salt, olive oil & toasts, p94

FEBRUARY 2017 91

Good Food contributing editor Diana Henry is an award-winning food writer. Each month she creates exclusive recipes using seasonal ingredients. Her tenth book, Simple (£25, Mitchell Beazley), is out now. @ DianaHenryFood

he best thing my mum could have done during the day when we were all at school, was bake a chocolate cake. We would know if she’d made one as the cake tin would be sitting on the counter when we got home; the baking parchment sticking out over the edges, and the beaters from the mixer still covered in chocolate buttercream. None of us were sure whether to dive into the tin or grab a beater and lick it.


Espresso, hazelnut & chocolate shortbread MAKES 20 PREP 50 mins plus chilling COOK 30 mins EASY

2 tbsp instant espresso powder 250g butter, softened at room temperature 85g caster sugar 225g plain lour, plus extra for dusting 75g rice lour 75g unblanched hazelnuts, halved To decorate 150g 70% dark chocolate, broken into chunks 75g blanched hazelnuts, toasted and very roughly chopped (leave some pieces quite large)

1 Mix the espresso powder with 1 tsp hot water to form a paste (you’ll think it isn’t enough water but it is – don’t add more otherwise it’ll be too watery). Set aside.

92 FEBRUARY 2017

I can remember feeling the weight of the cake as I checked the thickness of the buttercream in the middle (hoping mum hadn’t had a fit of meanness when doing that bit) and the anticipation as we poured glasses of ice-cold milk. Having chocolate cake with a glass of milk – something I allow myself only occasionally these days – is the nearest you can get to eating happiness. The cake is rich; the milk cleanses; the satisfaction is immense. Chocolate cake was the first cake I learned to make. Nearly everything I know about dealing with chocolate I learned through trial and error. My mum taught me to melt squares in a bowl set over a pan of gently simmering water, but I realised, after successive disasters, how careful you have to be when dealing with it. The bowl shouldn’t even touch the water over which you’re melting your chocolate (it will melt too quickly). Even steam can turn

chocolate into an unworkable lump as water combines with the dry cocoa solids. If you need to add liquid, such as cream, you must add a large enough quantity to make the solids form a solution. If you have to add small amounts of liquid – a few spoonfuls of alcohol, for example – you must add it before the chocolate melts. Overheating chocolate – because I’m rushing – is the crime I most often commit. Overheat your melting squares and the mixture will turn thick and ‘muddy’. If you do overheat chocolate, immediately transfer it to a new bowl and stir in a handful of chopped chocolate. Beat like mad: the additional chocolate should reduce the temperature and rescue it sufficiently to make it usable in a cake. Choosing good chocolate for cooking (a minimum of 70% cocoa solids) is important, but patience is also essential. • Turn to p139 for a guide to melting chocolate.

2 Beat the butter and sugar until soft and blended, then beat in the coffee mixture. Don’t overbeat the mixture as you don’t want to incorporate too much air. (If the coffee isn’t completely incorporated, don’t worry – it will be once you add the flours). 3 Sift together the flours and add them to the butter in three lots, mixing in with a wooden spoon and, eventually, your hands. Bring together into a ball, then transfer to a lightly floured surface and quickly knead in the hazelnuts. Don’t overdo this – you don’t want the butter to get too warm. Press the dough into a circle, wrap it in cling film and put in the fridge for about 40 mins. 4 Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to 0.75cm thick. Cut out circles about 6cm across with a biscuit cutter and put the circles on a non-stick baking sheet (or two baking sheets, depending on their size). Re-roll the dough as you need

to, but try not to do this too often. Put the baking sheets in the coldest part of the fridge and leave them for about 45 mins. Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. 5 Bake the shortbread for 20 mins, or until the top is just firm when you press it with your index finger. Take out of the oven and leave on the baking sheets to cool for a while (it is very fragile when hot), then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. 6 Melt the chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water, then remove the bowl and leave to cool a little and firm up somewhat. Dip each piece of shortbread halfway in the melted chocolate, then put on a sheet of baking parchment. Sprinkle the toasted hazelnuts on the chocolate half and leave to set completely. Will keep for 4 days in an airtight tin. PER SHORTBREAD 259 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 9g • carbs 19g • sugars 6g • ibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.2g

be inspired

FEBRUARY 2017 93

be inspired

SERVES 8 PREP 1 hr 10 mins COOK 40 mins EASY

For the sponge 225g butter, softened at room temperature, plus extra for greasing 225g light brown soft sugar 4 large eggs, at room temperature, lightly beaten 170g self-raising lour 1 /2 tsp baking powder 50g cocoa powder 2 tbsp milk 50ml lime juice (about 4 limes) 25g caster sugar For the candied lime zest 3 limes 100g granulated sugar For the lime buttercream 100g unsalted butter 200g icing sugar 2 small limes, inely zested For the chocolate & lime icing 50ml double cream, plus 1 tbsp 100g 70% dark chocolate, cut into small pieces 21/2 tbsp lime marmalade

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Butter and line the base of 2 x 20cm cake tins with baking parchment. Beat the butter and sugar together until pale and fluffy.

Chocolate ganache with sea salt, olive oil & toasts SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins, plus chilling COOK 10 mins EASY

250ml double cream 250g 70% dark chocolate 1 loaf ciabatta, inely sliced extra virgin olive oil sea salt lakes

1 Heat the cream in a heavybottomed pan until it is warm but not boiling (you don’t want to overheat the chocolate, so be careful not to overdo it). Take the pan off the heat, then add the chocolate to the pan with the cream and leave to melt for a while, then 94 FEBRUARY 2017

Add the eggs gradually, beating well between each addition. Fold in the flour, baking powder and cocoa powder. If the mixture is very stiff, stir in the milk. Spoon into the cake tins and bake for 20-25 mins or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Turn the cakes out onto a wire rack and peel off the parchment. Gently heat the lime juice and sugar together, stirring to help the sugar dissolve. While the cakes and the syrup are still warm, pierce the cakes all over using a skewer and spoon over the syrup. Leave to cool completely. 2 Next, make the candied lime zest. Pare the zest from the limes, cutting it cutting it into broad strips. Cut away the white pith and discard, then slice the zest into matchsticksized strips. Put them in a pan and cover with water, then bring to the boil. Cook for 1 min, then drain and rinse. Dry and set aside. Juice the limes and add enough water to make 225ml. Heat gently with the sugar until the sugar has melted. Add the strips of zest and simmer until the liquid has almost evaporated and turned syrupy – about 30 mins. Scoop the strips of zest out with a slotted spoon, then place them on parchment to dry. 3 To make the buttercream, beat the butter and icing sugar together

beat with a wooden spoon. At first it looks like it won’t go smooth, but it will. Leave to cool and set. You can also chill it, but take it out of the fridge before serving so that it isn’t too firm or ‘fridge cold’. 2 Cut the bread into fine slices and toast on each side (the best way is under the grill, but watch it like a hawk). Serve the ganache in glasses in small scoops. Drizzle generously with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Brush the toast with more olive oil and serve with the ganache. PER SERVING 641 kcals • fat 49g • saturates 25g • carbs 37g • sugars 12g • ibre 6g • protein9g • salt 0.5g

using an electric mixer or by hand (start off gently or the icing sugar will fly everywhere), until pale and light, but don’t beat for so long that it gets too fluffy. Add the lime zest and beat again until smooth. Chill in the fridge until the buttercream is firm, but spreadable. 4 To make the icing, heat the cream, then take it off the heat. Add the chocolate and let it melt, stirring to help it along. Put the marmalade in a small pan with the extra 1 tbsp cream and heat slowly to dissolve. Add to the chocolate and cream and stir until everything is blended. Leave to cool a little, but not so long that it becomes firm. Pour over one of the layers of sponge and leave to cool and set – it will run down the sides and drip off. 5 Spread the buttercream over the other layer, then put the chocolate coated layer on top. Decorate with the candied lime zest. PER SERVING 855 kcals • fat 49g • saturates 29g • carbs 93g • sugars 74g • ibre 4g • protein 9g • salt 0.9g


Chocolate & lime cake

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EASIEST EVER Spanish chicken stew Miso tofu bowl Spiced roast cauli lower


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Food to keep the kids happy! FEBRUARY 2017 95

Spice it up! Inspired by recipes from Japan, Denmark and the Americas, Rosie Birkett adds flavour-packed twists to three favourite dishes Good Food contributing editor Rosie Birkett is a food writer and stylist. Each month she creates modern recipes for us. Her cookbook, A Lot on Her Plate, is out now (ÂŁ25, Hardie Grant). @rosiefoodie

photographs MYLES NEW

Smoky braised brisket, p98 96 FEBRUARY 2017

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Blood orange & cardamom pancakes (aebleskiver), p98 FEBRUARY 2017 97

Brisket has always been one of my favourite cuts because it’s cheap and incredibly flavourful, with a lovely layer of fat running through it. This recipe is inspired by the smoky flavours of American and South American barbecue, on offer at hot new London restaurants like Neil Rankin’s Temper in Soho and Smokestak in Shoreditch. This is just the kind of comfort food I want to eat on a cold winter’s night. SERVES 3 4 PREP 20 mins plus at least 1 hr marinating COOK 3 hrs 45 mins EASY

800g-1kg brisket, boneless 1 tbsp light muscovado sugar For the spice mix 1 tsp smoked paprika pinch chilli lakes 1 /2 tsp garlic granules 1 /2 tsp ground cumin For the spicy gravy 1 dried chipotle chilli 1 tbsp beef dripping or neutral oil 1 onion, sliced 1 carrot, chopped 1 garlic clove, inely chopped 1 thyme sprig 1 bay leaf 1 star anise 1 lemon, zested 800ml good beef stock 1 tbsp plain lour 1 tbsp butter 1 tbsp honey For the soured cream 1 tbsp snipped chives 100g soured cream or crème fraîche 1 /2 lemon, juiced To serve jacket potatoes buttered kale

Blood orange & cardamom pancakes (aebleskiver) This seasonal take on a classic dessert is inspired by ‘hygge’ – the Danish dedication to taking pleasure in everyday things and creating a sense of wellbeing and comfort. These tasty little buttermilk pancakes spiked with blood orange and cardamom are certainly very hygge. Called aebleskiver in Danish, they are traditionally made in a special aebleskiver pan (available from, but you can make them in a frying pan as mini bun-type pancakes. MAKES 24 PREP 30 mins COOK 20 mins A CHALLENGE

98 FEBRUARY 2017

1 Rub the brisket with the sugar and 1 tbsp sea salt and let sit for 5 mins. Mix the spices and 1 tbsp pepper, then rub all over the brisket. Leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 1 hr, or preferably more. 2 Take the meat out of the fridge 30 mins before cooking. Rehydrate the chipotle in hot water. Heat oven to 140C/120C fan/gas 1. Heat a heavy-bottomed flameproof casserole over a medium-high heat and add the dripping or oil. Brown the meat on all sides, then transfer to a plate. 3 Add the onion, carrot, garlic, thyme and bay leaf to the casserole and fry over a medium-high heat for 6-8 mins until aromatic, softened and starting to char and colour. Drain and chop the chipotle and add to the pot along with the brisket, star anise, lemon zest and stock. Bring the stock to a gentle simmer, then cover with a lid and put in the oven for 3 hrs or until tender. 4 Remove the brisket from the casserole and wrap in foil to keep warm while you finish making the spicy gravy. Put the casserole on the hob over a high heat and reduce for about 20 mins until beginning to thicken. Stir the flour and butter into a paste and add to the casserole. Stir until the paste has dissolved and the sauce is smooth and pourable. Season with salt and honey until you’re happy with the flavour. 5 Mix the chives and soured cream with a squeeze of lemon juice. Unwrap and slice the brisket and reheat the slices briefly in the warm gravy, then serve with crispy, salt-roasted jacket potatoes, buttered kale and the soured cream. PER SERVING (4) 552 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 16g • carbs 18g • sugars 13g • ibre 4g • protein 42g • salt 4.5g

Matcha madeleines Bright green matcha madeleines were the absolute star of the afternoon tea at the Prince Gallery Hotel in Tokyo, where I stayed on a recent trip – sweet but with a satisfying bitterness. They inspired me to try my own update on the French classic – best served hot from the oven with a good cup of coffee. I’d recommend making the mix as far in advance as possible. MAKES 24 PREP 20 mins plus overnight chilling COOK 10 mins MORE EFFORT

2 large eggs 1 large egg yolk 100g caster sugar 2 tsp high-grade matcha 125g plain lour, plus extra for dusting 5g baking powder 110g clari ied butter or ghee, plus extra for greasing 2 tsp honey

1 In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolk, sugar, matcha and 1/2 tsp sea salt until foamy. While whisking, gradually sift in the flour and baking powder, making sure there are no lumps. Warm the clarified butter and honey in a pan over a low heat for 1-2 mins and gently pour into the madeleine mix, stirring constantly. Cover the mixture with cling film and chill in the fridge for a few hrs or overnight. 2 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Butter and flour the madeleine tins (you don’t need to do this if the moulds are silicone). Transfer the mixture to a piping bag. Half fill each hole in the mould. Bake in the oven for 3 mins, then reduce the temperature to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and cook for a further 4-5 mins until the madeleines are golden brown and puffed. Remove from the tins immediately and devour. PER MADELEINE 88 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 3g • carbs 9g • sugars 4g • ibre none • protein 1g • salt 0.1g

125g plain lour 1 /2 tsp baking powder 1 /2 tsp ground cardamom 200ml buttermilk 2 large eggs, separated 1 blood orange, zested 1 tbsp blood orange juice 50g butter, melted and cooled, plus extra for greasing 1 tbsp caster sugar icing sugar, to dust

1 In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, cardamom and a pinch of salt. In another bowl, mix the buttermilk, egg yolks, orange zest and juice and butter. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and whisk to create a smooth batter.

2 Whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then add the caster sugar, whisk again, then fold into the batter. 3 Butter an aebleskiver pan and set over a medium-high heat. Spoon 1 tbsp batter into each hole and allow to cook and set for about 1 min. Use a skewer or pointed palette knife to flip the pancakes around forty degrees, then add a bit more batter, allow to set and flip again, cooking and rotating until you have a golden puffed pancake ball. Alternatively, drop spoonfuls of batter into a buttered non-stick frying pan and cook for several mins on each side. Dust with icing sugar and serve hot. PER AEBLESKIVER 49 kcals • fat 2g • saturates 1g • carbs 5g • sugars 1g • ibre none • protein 1g • salt 0.1g

Food styling ROSIE BIRKETT Styling JO HARRIS

Smoky braised brisket

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FEBRUARY 2017 99

This month’s menu

The Mash Inn Create modern, make-ahead British dishes adapted from this new restaurant with rooms, tucked away in a Buckinghamshire hamlet words CHRISTINE HAYES recipes JON PARRY photographs DAVID COTSWORTH

Chef Jon Parry and owner Nick Mash


hef Jon Parry’s approach to cooking is simple: respect everything, waste nothing. He’s always fermenting or pickling something, preserving the fruit, veg and herbs grown in the kitchen garden and orchard for use all year round. The Mash’s impressive open charcoal grill and main work station is in the dining room, so guests can wander up to chat while he’s working, and he often delivers plates to the table too. This approach is encouraged by owner Nick Mash, who bought the pub last year. He grew up locally and, after running gastropubs in north London, rescued the pub from closure, renovating it to include a dining room and five stylishly cosy bedrooms. It retains a relaxed and warm welcome – you can still just pop in for a pint and a Scotch egg in the snug, while the imaginative tasting menu attracts guests from far and wide. Nick is serious about supporting local suppliers, from Bates and Lambourne, who designed the huge communal dining table, to serving fizz from local vineyard Daws Hill. Plans for 2017 include an all-British cocktail list using spirits and mixers made in-house, and luxury cabins in the grounds. Tasting menu £45; starters from £6.50; mains from £19 Rooms from £100 per night 100 FEBRUARY 2017

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Menu for 6 Bergamot mojito Oyster pomelo with crème fraÎche Marinated lamb leg, romanesco & pickled walnuts Salt-baked celeriac & brown butter Yogurt panna cotta, hunza apricots & popcorn

Marinated lamb leg, romanesco & pickled walnuts, p102 FEBRUARY 2017 101

Oyster pomelo with crème fraîche Pomelo is a large citrus fruit, similar to grapefruit but with a milder, sweeter flavour. SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins plus at least 3 hrs chilling COOK 8 mins MORE EFFORT

Bergamot mojito SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus 3 hrs freezing COOK 10 mins EASY

300g golden caster sugar 12 mint leaves 6 limes, juiced 1 bergamot, zested and juiced (available from 150ml golden rum

1 Mix the sugar with 1 ltr water in a medium saucepan. Bring to the boil, then cool to room temperature. 2 Blend the mint, lime juice and bergamot zest and juice in a food processor, then add the cooled syrup and blend until combined. Pour into a plastic container and freeze, stirring with a fork every 30 mins until frozen. 3 To serve, scoop the granita into chilled glasses and pour the rum over. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 264 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 51g • sugars 51g • ibre none • protein none • salt none

Marinated lamb leg, romanesco & pickled walnuts If you can’t find romanesco, use two large cauliflowers instead. SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins plus overnight marinating COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT

1.2kg lamb rump or boneless leg, portioned into equal pieces 500g live natural yogurt small pack rosemary, leaves and stalks separated 2 whole romanesco, leaves removed 3 tbsp vegetable oil 7 pickled walnuts, 4 inely chopped and 3 halved for serving, plus 1 tbsp pickling liquid 60ml olive oil 500ml fresh lamb stock

60ml crème fraîche pomelo 12 medium rock oysters coarse salt, to serve

1 The night before, or at least 3 hrs prior to serving, carefully cut all the skin and pith off the pomelo. Cut the segments from the fruit, then heat a non-stick frying pan with no oil on a medium heat. When hot, add the segments in one layer. Let them stick and get a little black (this will take 6-8 mins), then remove from the heat and stir gently to break up the segments. Set aside in the fridge to chill until needed. 2 To serve, carefully open the oyster shells by holding the oyster in a folded tea towel, flat-side up with the hinge exposed. Insert a knife into the hinge and wiggle to lever open. Discard the top shell and run the knife under the oyster to loosen it from the bottom curved shell. Serve in the bottom shell with

1 The night before, trim the fat from the lamb then mix with the yogurt and rosemary leaves. Cover and put in the fridge to marinate overnight. 2 The next day, trim the stalk off a romanesco so that it sits upright on a board. Slice 5cm off each side with a bread knife (keep these off-cuts to make the couscous). Slice the rest of the romanesco into three thick slices. Repeat with the other romanesco. Oil a large, non-stick baking tray with 1 tbsp vegetable oil. Lay the romanesco slices in a single layer and drizzle with a little more vegetable oil. Season with salt and scatter over the rosemary stalks, ready to roast. 3 Finely chop or pulse the romanesco off-cuts in a food processor until they are the texture of couscous. Mix the finely chopped walnuts into the couscous with the olive oil, and season with salt.

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1 tsp crème fraîche and 1 tsp scorched pomelo segments. Serve the oysters on top of piles of coarse salt to hold them steady. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • gluten free PER SERVING 52 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 3g • carbs 1g • sugars 1g • ibre none • protein 2g • salt 0.2g

4 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Wipe the marinade off the lamb and season with sea salt. Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil a large ovenproof frying pan. Fry the lamb until golden all over, then roast in the oven for 8-12 mins, depending on how rare you like it. Put the romanesco in the oven at the same time. Once the lamb is ready, remove from the oven, flip the romanesco slices over so they char on both sides, and cook for a further 10 mins. Cover and rest the lamb in the pan for 10 mins. 5 Meanwhile, simmer the stock in a wide saucepan with 1 tbsp of the walnut pickling vinegar from the jar for 10 mins until it forms a jus. 6 Slice the lamb and serve with the romanesco slices, some couscous, half a walnut and the jus. GOOD TO KNOW iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 591 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 9g • carbs 11g • sugars 6g • ibre 4g • protein 51g • salt 0.4g

For a video on how to shuck oysters, visit bbcgoodfood. com/videos/ techniques/howshuck-oyster

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Salt-baked celeriac & brown butter Making a salt crust is well worth the effort, as it will result in a perfectly seasoned celeriac with beautifully tender flesh. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus 1 hr resting COOK 3 hrs 40 mins MORE EFFORT V

6 large egg whites 200g ine salt 10g fennel seeds 1 medium-large celeriac, scrubbed but left unpeeled 60g butter

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Whisk the egg whites until stiff, then fold in the salt and fennel seeds slowly to create a paste that holds its shape. Flatten about 1/4 of the paste into a circle on the baking sheet. Put the celeriac on top of the paste, then cover with the rest of the paste, making sure it is completely sealed in an even layer. Bake in the oven for 3 hrs 30 mins. To check whether it’s cooked, poke a skewer or thin knife through the crust into the celeriac. It is ready if there is no resistance. If still hard in the middle, return to the oven for 45 mins. Once cooked, rest for 1 hr still in its crust. 2 Once rested, cut off the top of the crust with a bread knife and keep to one side. Cut off the top of the exposed celeriac, discard and scoop out the inside, being careful not to break the celeriac skin. Mash the scooped out flesh with a fork. 3 Melt the butter in a medium frying pan over a low heat, until the solids in the butter start to caramelise and smell nutty. Stir the celeriac into the butter to heat through, then season. Spoon back into its shell, replace the lid of the crust and put the whole celeriac onto a board or plate ready to serve. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 118 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 5g • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • ibre 8g • protein 2g • salt 1.7g

FEBRUARY 2017 103

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Yogurt panna cotta, hunza apricots & popcorn Hunza apricots, which look a bit like walnuts, have a caramel flavour. They are dried on the tree before harvesting, to naturally preserve the fruit. You can buy them in some Turkish supermarkets or at and SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins plus overnight soaking and at least 3 hrs chilling COOK 25 mins MORE EFFORT

For the panna cotta 21/2 gelatine leaves 175g double cream 175g milk 100g golden caster sugar 350g yogurt For the hunza apricots 100g hunza apricots (or unsulphured dried apricots), halved 50g demerara sugar 1 cinnamon stick For the popcorn tbsp vegetable oil 50g popping corn 25g melted butter

1 The day before, mix the apricots with the sugar, cinnamon and 300ml water, and leave to soak. 2 To make the panna cotta, soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 mins. Meanwhile, heat the cream, milk and sugar together over a gentle heat, stirring until the liquid is steaming but not boiling. Squeeze out the gelatine, then stir into the hot liquid to melt. Pour through a sieve into a bowl. Whisk in the yogurt, then pour into six ramekins. Chill for 3-4 hrs or overnight. 3 The next day, simmer the apricot mix in a pan until the water is reduced and the apricots are sticky and soft. If the apricots are still firm, add another 300ml water and reduce again. Leave to cool to room temperature. 4 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large saucepan with a lid on a medium-high heat. When hot, add the corn and cover with the lid. Hold the pan’s handle and lid, and when you hear the first pop, slowly shake the pan. When the popping dies down, remove from the heat, add the melted butter and season with salt. 5 To serve, place the apricots on the panna cotta in the ramekin and add some popcorn. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 442 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 14g • carbs 42g • sugars 38g • ibre 2g • protein 7g • salt 0.4g

104 FEBRUARY 2017



BOOK NOW! Places limited

worth £25

Join us for our exclusive reader events at Manchester House and Edinburgh’s Ondine Book now for a six-course lunch in Manchester and an oyster masterclass in Edinburgh


njoy a six-course lunch – with wine pairings for three courses – at Manchester House, including a meet and greet with chef-patron Aiden Byrne. Plus, you’ll get a goody bag to take home worth £25. Aiden opened Manchester House in 2013, returning to his Northern roots and embracing the opportunity DATE 19 April 2017 PLACE 18 22 Bridge Street,

Spinning ields, Manchester M3 3BZ TIME 12.30pm-3.30pm PRICE £90 per person TO BOOK To reserve a place, please email bdm@ or call 0161 835 2557 and mention the BBC Good Food reader’s lunch.


to create innovative British menus. His dishes are based on classic flavour combinations and seasonal produce, and are delivered with great flair and technical skill. The restaurant has won numerous awards since opening, including four AA Rosettes last year. It was 12th in Square Meal UK’s 100 Top Restaurants 2016.

Sample courses Warm potato mousse, chicken skin, foie gras ballotine and pink fir apple •

Venison and celeriac pie with liver parfait croûte •

Pear, chestnut and chocolate


Here’s another great reason to subscribe to BBC Good Food –


ou’re invited to an exclusive oyster masterclass and tasting at Ondine, in the heart of Edinburgh’s old town. This is a rare chance to get in-depth tuition from oyster growers and experts. You’ll enjoy a masterclass, cooking demo and tasting with specially paired wines. Ondine specialises in seafood dishes with a DATE 28 March 2017 PLACE 2 George IV Bridge,

Edinburgh EH1 1AD TIME 5pm PRICE £75 per person, including welcome drinks, nibbles, 10 oysters, wine and a goody bag worth £25. TO BOOK Visit seetickets. com/go/ondine or call 0871 231 0847 (calls cost 13p/min plus network extras).

European twist. The event will be hosted by Roy Brett, Ondine’s award-winning chef-patron. He has worked with Rick Stein and Mark Hix, and is passionate about local, sustainable produce. The evening will include drinks and nibbles, a talk from the experts, a kitchen tour, an oyster demo and an oyster tasting with pairings of selected wines.

Sample menu A selection of natural oysters, cooked and marinated oysters, with accompaniments •

Roy’s signature treacle tart Paired wines with each selection of oysters

subscribers save £5 on tickets for both events. Turn to page 124 for your subscriber codes.

FEBRUARY 2017 105

Weekend essentials Make the most of your time off with a laid-back Friday night dinner, leisurely brunch and an indulgent dessert recipes THE GOOD FOOD TEAM photographs TOM REGESTER

Mozzarella stuffed-crust pizza, p108 106 FEBRUARY 2017

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SATURDAY BRUNCH Protein pancakes Kick-start the weekend with these better-for-you vegan pancakes. You can make your own quinoa flour by lightly toasting quinoa grains in a dry pan, then whizzing to a powder in a food processor. SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

For the batter 2 tbsp ground linseed 20g ground almonds 300ml soya milk 200g quinoa lour (see above) 1 medium banana, mashed 2 tbsp maple syrup coconut oil, for frying For the blueberry chia jam 200g blueberries 2 tbsp chia seeds 1 2 tbsp maple syrup, to taste 2 tsp lemon juice

To serve 100g coconut yogurt 1 tbsp pistachios or pumpkin seeds, chopped and toasted if you like 2 tsp hulled hemp seeds mixed berries

1 In a small bowl, stir the linseed with 6 tbsp water and set aside to soak while you make the quick-cook jam. 2 Mash the blueberries with a fork and cook over a low-medium heat until syrupy and bubbling. Take off the heat and stir in the chia seeds, maple syrup and lemon juice. Cool, then transfer to a small serving jar. 3 Put the almonds, soya milk, flour, banana, maple syrup and a pinch of salt in a blender. Stir the linseed to ensure that it’s thick and gloopy, then add to the blender and blitz everything until smooth and thick. 4 Heat 1 tsp coconut oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and

add 1 tbsp dollops of batter to the pan. Cook for a couple of mins on each side. Set aside and keep warm while you repeat the process with the remaining batter, adding another 1 tsp coconut oil with each batch. You should get about 16 small pancakes in total. 5 Pile the pancakes high on two plates, alternating with layers of jam and yogurt. Put a dollop of yogurt on top, then scatter over the nuts or seeds and berries. Leftover jam will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 798 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 8g • carbs 91g • sugars 39g • ibre 15g • protein 29g • salt 0.3g

FEBRUARY 2017 107

Make the dough and the sauce ahead for this crowd-pleasing cheesy Friday night feast. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus rising COOK 35 mins MORE EFFORT V

200ml milk 300g strong white bread lour 1 tsp fast-action dried yeast 1 /2 tsp golden caster sugar, plus a pinch 3 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle 250ml passata 2 garlic cloves, squashed 1 /2 tsp dried oregano 1 2 tbsp polenta 250g mozzarella, grated toppings of your choice (we used pepperoni, chorizo and basil)

SUNDAY BAKING Tropical cheesecake bars Fresh mango, crunchy biscuit and smooth cream cheese filling – a light dessert everyone will love. MAKES 12 14 PREP 30 mins COOK 1 hr MORE EFFORT

200g ginger biscuits 200g digestive biscuits 200g butter, melted 3 x 280g tubs cream cheese 200g golden caster sugar 50g plain lour 1 lemon, zested 3 large eggs, beaten 200ml double cream 100g mango, chopped For the topping 4 passion fruits, halved and lesh scooped out 3 tbsp lemon curd

108 FEBRUARY 2017

1 You can make the pizza dough up to 48 hrs ahead. Warm the milk in a saucepan until steaming but not boiling. In a bowl, mix the flour, yeast, caster sugar and 1 tsp salt. Add 1/2 tbsp oil to the milk and leave to cool until just warm. Pour the liquid into the dry ingredients and mix with a wooden spoon until well combined. (You can use a food processor if you like.) Tip onto a work surface and knead for 10 mins (or continue mixing in the mixer for 5-7 mins) until you have a smooth, elastic dough. Clean and oil the bowl, then return the dough and cover with cling film. Leave somewhere warm to rise for 1-2 hrs until doubled in size, or chill in the fridge for up to 48 hrs. 2 Meanwhile, make the sauce. Pour the remaining oil and passata into a saucepan and add the garlic, oregano and a pinch of sugar. Season well and simmer for 5-10 mins until the sauce is thick. Remove the garlic and set the sauce aside until you’re ready to assemble the pizza. 3 If the dough has been chilled, remove from the fridge and leave to come up to room temperature. Dust the work surface with polenta and tip the dough onto it. Punch it

down to knock out the air bubbles, then shape into a disc and roll out to a width of about 35cm. Dust a large baking sheet with polenta and put the dough on top, making sure it can move freely. Use half the mozzarella to create a ring around 0.5cm from the edge of the pizza base. Brush some water inside the mozzarella ring, then fold over the outside edge and press firmly to enclose the cheese and create a stuffed crust. 4 Spoon the sauce over the middle of the base and top with the remaining mozzarella. Scatter with your toppings (save any fresh herbs for scattering over after baking), brush the stuffed crust with oil, cover with oiled cling film and set aside for 20-30 mins until the dough has puffed up a little. Meanwhile, heat oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9 and heat up a large baking sheet on the middle shelf. 5 Quickly open the oven door and slide the pizza onto the hot baking sheet. Cook for 15-20 mins or until bubbling and cooked through. Leave to cool for a few mins before eating.

To decorate 50g fresh mango and pineapple slices mint leaves toasted coconut lakes (optional)

with an electric hand whisk or balloon whisk until smooth. Pour onto the biscuit base then scatter over the mango pieces, pushing some of them into the cheesecake and letting others sit on the surface. Bake for 1 hr, then open the oven door and leave to cool for a further 30 mins. Once cool, chill in the fridge overnight. 3 When you’re ready to serve, push the passion fruit flesh through a sieve to get rid of the seeds, then mix the resulting pulp with the lemon curd. Drizzle the mixture over the cheesecake, decorate with fresh mango, pineapple mint leaves and toasted coconut flakes if you like, then cut into bars.

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line a 20 x 30cm rectangular tin with baking parchment. Blitz the biscuits in a food processor, or put in a large food bag and smash with a rolling pin. Put the crumbs in a large bowl, pour over the melted butter, stir well to combine, then tip into the tin. Press the mixture down well with the back of a spoon to form a compressed layer. Bake for 10 mins. Take the base out to cool, then turn the oven down to 120C/100C fan/gas 1/2. 2 In another bowl, whisk the sugar, flour, lemon zest, eggs, and cream

PER SERVING 573 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 11g • carbs 65g • sugars 6g • ibre 3g • protein 24g • salt 1.9g

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING (14) 567 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 24g • carbs 42g • sugars 27g • ibre 1g • protein 7g • salt 1.1g

Food styling KATY GREENWOOD Pizza and cheesecake styling SARAH BIRKS Pancakes styling WEI TANG

FRIDAY NIGHT Mozzarella stuffed-crust pizza

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FEBRUARY 2017 109

Pistachio sponge with honey & thyme crème fraîche & frosted pistachios, p112 110 FEBRUARY 2017

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Tom Kerridge

Baking Each month the BBC chef focuses on a key technique, and shares new seasonal recipes photographs TOM REGESTER

Good Food contributing editor Tom Kerridge is chef-owner of The Hand & Flowers and The Coach – both in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. His latest book, Tom Kerridge’s Dopamine Diet (£20, Absolute Press), is out this month. Each month Tom creates exclusive recipes for us. @ChefTomKerridge

FEBRUARY 2017 111

Onion & goat’s cheese tarts

1 Line a baking tray with baking parchment. Put the sugar in a heavy-based saucepan and melt over a medium heat. Cook to a dark caramel, occasionally swirling the pan gently to help melt any remaining sugar and get an even colour. Add the vinegar, stir to combine, and pour into the tray, spreading it out. Leave to cool. 2 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Add a splash of oil to an ovenproof frying pan over a medium-high heat. Lay the onions flat-side down and fry until blackened and just starting to burn, about 5 mins. Add the thyme sprigs, then transfer to the oven and bake for 25 mins. Once the onions are tender, remove from the pan. Space them out evenly, cut-side down, on the caramel and leave to cool. 3 Once the onions are cool, cut the pastry into six equal discs, each large enough to cover an onion half.


These are first baked at a high temperature so the pastry rises and sets, and then at a lower temperature to cook through without burning. SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins plus 1 hr chilling COOK 1 hr 20 mins MORE EFFORT V

100g golden caster sugar 50ml cider vinegar vegetable oil, for frying 3 large white onions, halved 6 thyme sprigs, plus extra picked thyme leaves to serve 320g sheet ready-rolled, all-butter puff pastry 150g ash goat’s cheese log, sliced into six discs

112 FEBRUARY 2017

Using good-quality pistachio paste adds moisture and a smooth nutty flavour to this bake. It can be ordered online from SERVES 12 PREP 35 mins COOK 45 50 mins MORE EFFORT

For the sponge 200g butter, plus extra to grease 300g golden caster sugar 100g pistachio paste 300g self-raising lour 4 large eggs For the frosted pistachios 125g golden caster sugar 100g pistachios (the super green variety if you can get them) For the thyme crème fraîche 300g crème fraîche 60g honey 1 tbsp picked thyme leaves

1 Heat oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 31/2. Grease and line a 900g loaf tin with a strip of baking parchment that hangs slightly over either end of the

tin. To make the sponge, beat the butter and sugar using an electric hand whisk or tabletop mixer until light and fluffy. Add the pistachio paste and 2 tbsp of flour, then beat the eggs in one at a time. Once fully combined, fold in the remaining flour. 2 Spoon the mixture into the tin and bake for 45-50 mins. Remove from the oven, cool in the tin for 10-15 mins, then lift out onto a wire rack using the ends of the baking parchment. 3 While the cake bakes, make the frosted pistachios. Line a baking tray with baking parchment. Mix the sugar with 2 tbsp water in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the nuts and stir until the sugar starts to crystallise. Once the nuts are covered in a white crystal coating, turn out onto the lined tray and leave to cool. 3 Whip the crème fraîche with the honey and thyme. Serve with slices of the cake and the frosted nuts. PER SERVING 589 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 17g • carbs 63g • sugars 42g • ibre 3g • protein 9g • salt 0.6g

Cover the onions with the pastry, tucking it under slightly. Put the tray in the fridge for 1 hr so that the pastry firms up a bit. 4 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Bake the onion tarts for 20 mins, then reduce heat to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and bake for 10 mins more. 5 Remove from the oven and leave to cool. Once cool enough to handle, turn the tarts so the onions are now facing up. Lay a slice of goat’s cheese on top of each and bake for a further 10 mins. Remove from the oven and sprinkle over a few thyme leaves to serve. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER TART 414 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 11g • carbs 43g • sugars 25g • ibre 4g • protein 9g • salt 0.8g


Pistachio sponge with honey & thyme crème fraîche & frosted pistachios


aking is a dry-heat method of cooking. Traditionally it involved cooking on or under hot coals, whereas roasting was done over open flames. Now that both are done in the oven, they’re trickier to distinguish. Roasting generally means cooking solid foods like meat and vegetables in fat, often at high temperatures, until crisp and golden. Baking uses less or no cooking fat and mostly involves a change from liquid or soft solid to firm solid – soft bread dough to airy loaf; liquid cake batter to springy sponge; pliable raw pastry to crumbly short or layered puff. When applied to other food, ‘baked’ usually means putting ingredients in a closed casserole, wrapping in foil, immersing in a sauce or placing on top of a bed of veg (as in my mullet recipe, p114), at a lower temperature than roasting. Timing is key. For perfectly textured and golden bakes, keep an eye on your oven and set a timer in case you get distracted.

be inspired

FEBRUARY 2017 113

be inspired

Baked red mullet with bacon, leeks & grapefruit Putting the fish on top of the leek ragout protects it from the heat of the dish, so it bakes gently without drying out. SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

1 tbsp vegetable oil 80g bacon lardons 1 onion, inely chopped 2 leeks, sliced into rings and washed 1 pink grapefruit, zested and cut into segments 30g butter 2 red mullets, scaled, illeted and bones removed (ask uour ishmonger)

114 FEBRUARY 2017

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Heat the oil in a shallow flameproof casserole. Fry the bacon until crisp and golden, then add the onion and leeks. Cook until they just start to soften, about 2 mins, then stir in the zest and butter. Once melted, lay the mullet, skin-side up, on top of the leek ragout. Season with flaky sea salt and bake uncovered for 12 mins. 2 Meanwhile, put the grapefruit segments on a heavy baking sheet and blowtorch or grill until the segments are charred with a toasty edge. Remove the fish from the oven, top with the charred segments and serve. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • folate • ibre • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 465 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 11g • carbs 19g • sugars 8g • ibre 8g • protein 27g • salt 1.6g

& Tom Kerridge will be looking at the history of Britain’s fastfood culture and searching for its top takeaways in Fast Food Britain on BBC Two this spring. He will also be cooking at the BBC Good Food Shows at Harrogate HIC (5 7 May) and Birmingham NEC (15 18 June). Visit to book tickets. Readers get a discount – ind out more on p88. Next month: Tom tackles poaching

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The Sorrento peninsula and Bay of Naples is one of the most beautiful parts of Europe. For centuries it has attracted visitors in search of its outstanding scenery, its tranquillity and some of the most wondrous sights from throughout history. Fully escorted price includes: • Return lights from a selection of regional airports. • Seven nights in a choice of three-, four-, four-star superior and ive-star hotels in Sorrento, with breakfast and dinner†. • Walking tour of Sorrento, one of Italy’s most charming towns. • A cruise to the stunning island of Capri, home to three Roman emperors, as well as DH Lawrence and Graham Greene. • Guided tour of the Roman town of Herculaneum • Guided tour of the Naples National Archaeological Museum, displaying some of the ancient world’s inest exhibits. • A guided tour of Pompeii, the astonishing city frozen in time. • Tour of the breathtaking Amal i Coast – one of the world’s most beautiful coastlines. • Visit to charming, hilltop Ravello with its incredible panoramic views and the setting for Wagner’s opera Parsifal. • Escorted by an experienced tour manager.

Mediterraneo is breakfast only. Images used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/ enquiring if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.

To request a brochure, call 01283 742398. To book, visit FEBRUARY 2017 115

Cake Club

Funfetti party cake This rainbow-speckled layer cake with creamy piped icing is a celebration showstopper

Funfetti cake The hint’s in the name – kids and grown-ups alike will love this fabulously fun cake. If you use nonpareil sprinkles (the tiny, round ones), the colour tends to fade when combined with the cake batter, so use rainbow sprinkles for a sharper effect. SERVES 20 25 PREP 30 mins COOK 25 30 mins MORE EFFORT

450g butter, softened, plus a little for greasing 300g golden caster sugar 1 tbsp vanilla paste 8 eggs, beaten 450g self-raising lour 1 tsp baking powder 4 tbsp full-fat milk 200g rainbow sprinkles, plus extra to decorate ( ind them on For the icing 150g butter, softened 450g icing sugar, sifted 180g tub full-fat cream cheese 1 tbsp vanilla paste

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line 4x20cm cake tins. If you don’t have four, halve the sponge recipe, then make and bake in two batches. 2 In a large bowl, beat the caster sugar, butter and vanilla paste with an electric hand whisk (or in a stand mixer) until pale and fluffy. Add the

eggs gradually, beating between each addition, until fully combined. Add 1-2 tbsp of the flour if the mixture looks like it’s curdling, 3 Sift in the remaining flour and baking powder with 1 tsp salt and fold into the cake batter. Pour in the milk and beat to loosen the mixture. Scatter over the sprinkles and ripple through the cake batter. Divide the mixture between each tin and bake for 25-30 mins until golden and the sponge springs back when you press it lightly. Swap the tins round in the oven after 15 mins to ensure the cakes cook evenly. Transfer to wire racks to cool completely. 4 Meanwhile, make the icing by beating the butter with half the icing sugar until combined and fluffy. Add the cream cheese and the rest of the sugar, beat until fully combined, then drizzle over the vanilla paste and beat again until incorporated. Attach a large, round nozzle to a piping bag and spoon in the icing. 5 When the cakes have cooled, put a blob of icing onto a cake board and sit one of the sponges on top. Pipe blobs of vanilla icing in a circle covering the whole top of the sponge, then top with the next sponge. Repeat with the other layers, then decorate by scattering some extra sprinkles on top. PER SERVING (25) 441 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 14g • carbs 52g • sugars 38g • ibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 1.0g

116 FEBRUARY 2017



be inspired

FEBRUARY 2017 117

food stories

My life on a plate

Tom Daley We all have a dish that brings back memories, and one to pass on to the next generation. Here, the Olympic diver shares two favourites from his new book interview ROSANNA GREENSTREET portrait DAN JONES


reat Britain’s youngest European gold medallist made his Olympic debut in Beijing in 2008 at the age of 14. He then won Olympic bronze at both London 2012 and Rio 2016. Tom, 22, lives in London and Los Angeles with his partner, American film director Dustin Lance Black. The recipe I grew up with – chicken, mozzarella & pesto ilo parcels I love cooking: whenever my mum cooked, I wanted to get involved. These filo parcels (below) were one of the first things I ever learnt to cook. Then, because I was travelling away from home from such a young age, she taught me how to make chicken & broccoli pasta bake. Many recipes bring back memories of family meals. I have two brothers,

William and Ben, now 20 and 17 – whoever ate fastest got seconds. I was seven when I started diving and my parents were so supportive, taking me to training sessions and competitions. Whether I was having a good day or a bad day, they’d know what to say to make me feel like I was having the time of my life. Until I was 16 or 17, I ate whatever was put in front of me. Then I realised that I had to adjust my diet. Sugar has to be in moderation. If you are a swimmer, you eat a lot of carbs; as a diver you tend not to eat as many, but it differs from athlete to athlete. The recipe I’d like to pass on – meatball-stuffed squash with spinach sauce I cook this dish (opposite) regularly. When I was at a diving camp in Australia in 2015, I made it for the

Chicken, mozzarella & pesto filo parcels SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 25 mins EASY

1 tbsp olive oil 8 large basil leaves, inely chopped 1 tsp pine nuts 225g skinless, boneless chicken breasts or thighs, chopped 3 sun-dried tomatoes, inely chopped 125g mozzarella, chopped 4 rectangular sheets (about 170g) ilo pastry 20g butter, melted green vegetables or salad, to serve

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and put a baking tray in to heat. 2 Grind the oil, basil and pine nuts in a pestle and mortar into a rough pesto. If you don’t have a pestle and mortar, chop the basil and nuts very finely and mix with the oil. Season. 118 FEBRUARY 2017

whole team. The main time I cook is on Sunday – my only non-training day. It’s a day of recovery, but I’m not one for sitting about. After brunch, Lance and I will go somewhere like Borough Market, have a coffee, then come home and cook. I do most of the cooking, but Lance is king of the barbecue. We’ve been living together for about three years. After he won the Oscar for Milk, which championed gay rights, he put his career on hold to campaign for marriage equality. He started with California; now gay marriage is legal in all 50 US states. It’s something he put a lot of effort into, but I don’t think he ever thought he’d get married. Now we’re setting things up for our wedding. We’d like kids, and hopefully one day I’ll teach them how to cook. @tomdaley1994

3 Put the chicken, tomatoes and mozzarella in a bowl and stir in the pesto. Season well. 4 Pile up the filo pastry on a board, then cut in half to make two squares (each with four pastry layers). Set one pile aside and with the other pile, twist each sheet around slightly to make a star outline. 5 Spoon half the mixture on to one of the piles of pastry. Brush a little melted butter around the base, then gather up the outsides and scrunch them together. Brush half the remaining butter over the top. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make another filo parcel. 6 Transfer the parcels to the preheated baking tray and bake in the oven for about 25 mins until golden. Serve with green vegetables or salad. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 676 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 15g • carbs 49g • sugars 3g • ibre 3g • protein 46g • salt 1.7g

food stories

Meatball-stuffed squash with spinach sauce SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr EASY

2 small squash, such as acorn (each about 300g), halved and deseeded 1 shallot 2 tbsp freshly chopped herbs such as parsley, chives, sage and basil 20g whole almonds, chopped 20g stoned black olives 40g Parmesan cheese, grated 250g lean beef mince For the spinach sauce 1 tsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, sliced 200g chopped tomatoes (from a can) 200ml hot vegetable stock 100g spinach

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cut the squash in half and remove the seeds. Put the squash halves in a roasting tin, spoon 1 tbsp water into each half and cook them in the oven for about 30 mins. 2 Put the shallot, herbs, almonds, olives and half the Parmesan cheese in a small food processor and whizz until finely chopped. Tip everything into a bowl, add the mince and season. Mix thoroughly, then divide into 12 rough portions. 3 Shape the mixture into six balls and divide between each squash half. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Turn the oven down to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and bake for 20-30 mins until the mince is cooked through. 4 Meanwhile, make the sauce. Heat the oil in a small pan, add the garlic and cook it for 1 min until it’s just starting to turn golden. Add the tomatoes and stock and season well. Simmer for 15 mins, then stir in the spinach and allow it to wilt. Spoon the sauce over the squash and serve. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • calcium • folate • ibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 491 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 7g • carbs 29g • sugars 17g • ibre 9g • protein 43g • salt 1.3g

& Tom’s Daily Plan (£16.99, HQ), 80 quick healthy recipes plus daily workouts, is out now.

FEBRUARY 2017 119


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Terms and conditions **Calls cost 13p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. ‘Was’ pricing refers to the original selling prices offered on the promoter’s website,, and in their retail store between 21/10/16 and 21/1/17. Delivery within seven working days to UK mainland only; some exclusions may apply. If not completely satis ied with your order, please return goods in mint condition and in the sealed original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order (postage costs will not be refunded unless goods are faulty). Your contract for supply of goods is with BVG Group. A signature is required on delivery. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of its special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to be contacted by BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.

To order, call 0844 493 5654** and quote 68813 Alternatively, visit, or send your contact details, address and the codes and quantities of the item(s) you wish to order, along with a cheque payable to BVG Group, to: Good Food Offer 68813, PO Box 87, Brecon LD3 3BE.

To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 68813 or visit 120 FEBRUARY 2017

food stories

Share your recipes

Indian coconut ice Our website,, is a great place to get your recipes noticed. These cardamom-spiked treats caught our eye, so we’ve given them the star treatment recipe PREETI MARWAH photograph MIKE ENGLISH

‘I love experimenting with fusion dishes,’ says Preeti, who was born in India and now lives in Swindon. ‘This shortbread is one of my Indo-British fusion recipes. The base is made from coconut, and the topping has white chocolate. It’s perfect for someone who wants to try something different – and it’s also gluten free.’

Indian coconut ice SERVES 16 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins plus 2 3 hrs chilling EASY


For the coconut base 4 tbsp ghee or clari ied butter, plus extra for greasing 100ml milk 100ml double cream 6 green cardamom pods 175g golden caster sugar 200g desiccated coconut For the topping 200g gluten-free white chocolate 4 tbsp double cream a few drops of pink food colouring

1 Grease a 16cm square baking tin with ghee. Mix the milk and cream and set aside. Bash the cardamom pods, then remove the seeds and crush them in a pestle and mortar. 2 Melt the ghee in a non-stick pan over a medium heat. Add the caster sugar and coconut, stir for 2 mins, then add the cream and milk mixture, followed by the ground cardamom. Stir continuously over the heat for about 10 mins or until the mixture starts to thicken. Remove from the heat and spread evenly into the tin.

3 For the topping, melt the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water or in the microwave. Warm the cream, then add to the melted chocolate and mix well. Remove from the heat and stir in the food colouring. Pour this

mixture over the coconut layer and chill in the fridge for 2-3 hrs until set. Cut into squares to serve. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 295 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 16g • carbs 19g • sugars 19g • ibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.1g

Got a recipe you’d like to share? Visit bbcgoodfood. com and create an account in My Good Food – your recipe could be featured in a future issue.

FEBRUARY 2017 121

Food and Farming Awards

Market leader A tiny Welsh market selling exceptional produce has transformed food shopping for the locals – and won a prestigious BBC award interview CLARE HARGREAVES recipe LYNN BEARD photograph DAVID COTSWORTH

122 FEBRUARY 2017

food stories

Recipe photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling SARAH BIRKS


ts stunning setting – between the ruins of a medieval abbey and a working watermill – would be reason enough to visit the local producers’ market in the village of St Dogmaels, Pembrokeshire. But it is remarkable too for its outstanding produce and sense of community – for which it was named Best Food Market at last year’s BBC Food and Farming awards. Since 2009, the market has been held every Tuesday outside a 19th-century coach house, which was restored by villagers and is now a visitors’ centre, café and museum. The pitch fees for the 23 stalls help to maintain the centre. The market may be small, but its food – all sourced from within a 30-mile radius – is superb. There’s locally caught crab and lobster sold by Mandy Walters; Longhorn beef and lamb from Carn Edward Farm; and croissants and other pastries made by Cothi Valley from their own goat’s butter (see recipe, right). You’ll also find jams made by Helen Lloyd, one of the market’s founders, who set up Fox Hill Farm Preserves after her family lost its beef herd to TB. Helen says the award has prompted a huge sense of local pride. ‘We’ve seen a large increase in visitors, so we’re hoping we’ll be supported even during the low season,’ she says. ‘We’d love people to do their weekly shop – we offer so much more than a supermarket.’ Diana Henry, cookery writer and a contributing editor to Good Food, helped to judge the awards. ‘St Dogmaels is a feel-good place with a great vibe and excellent produce,’ she says. ‘The market serves a real need locally – it’s used by lots of people who live far from a supermarket. It’s a great place to meet as well as shop. And if you’re a newcomer or just in the area on holiday, the welcome is equally warm.’ @StDogsMarket

St Dogmaels Market in Pembrokeshire was named Best Food Market in the 2016 BBC Food and Farming Awards. Discover more about the other winners and inalists via BBC Radio 4 iPlayer and at

Next month: Meet the man whose family has been hand-making cheese since 1750

Winter vegetable & goat’s cheese pasties ‘As goat farmers for 40-odd years, we used to get exasperated when people asked, “But what can you do with the milk, cheese or butter?”’ says Lynn Beard, who runs Cothi Valley with her husband, Richard. ‘So, we started to bake, and now baking has replaced the cheesemaking. We started with goat’s cheese quiches in 1999, and then moved on to pasties and sweet pastries like croissants. ‘We use goat’s butter to make our rough puff pastry for the pasties. We make it by hand, rolling and folding up to 20kg of goat’s butter a week, but it’s worth it for the flavour and texture. The pasties freeze well, so it’s worth making extra.’ SERVES 10 PREP 25 mins plus cooling COOK 45 mins EASY V G

30g butter, plus a little extra 1 onion, inely chopped medium swede, inely chopped 2 carrots, inely chopped 3 medium potatoes, inely chopped

pack lat-leaf parsley, chopped 200g hard goat’s cheese, grated 1kg bought or homemade puff pastry 2 eggs, beaten

1 Melt 30g of butter in a pan over a low heat. Add the onion, swede, carrots and a pinch of seasoning, and cook gently for 10 mins. Add the potatoes, cover and cook gently until the veg are soft, about 15 mins – add some more butter if the veg look dry or are starting to catch. Leave to cool, season, then add the parsley and goat’s cheese and stir gently. 2 Heat oven to 230C/210C fan/gas 8. Line two baking trays with baking parchment. Roll the pastry to the thickness of a £1 coin and cut out 10 circles, each about 20cm wide. Brush around the edge of each circle with the egg. Put some filling in the centre of each circle, fold it in half to form a semi-circle, then crimp the edges to seal. Transfer to the baking trays and bake for 20 mins until golden brown. Serve hot or cold. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER PASTY 556 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 19g • carbs 42g • sugars 5g • ibre 5g • protein 12g • salt 1.3g

FEBRUARY 2017 123

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To order your food processor Call 0844 493 5654** quoting product code D9794 and order code 69428 or visit uk/69428 or send your contact details, address and the codes and quantities of the item you wish to order, along with a cheque payable to BVG Group, to: Good Food Offer 69428, PO Box 87, Brecon LD3 3BE. Terms and conditions **Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. ‘Was’ pricing refers to the original selling prices offered on the promoters website, and in their retail store between 20/6/16 and 20/9/16. Delivery within seven working days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. If not completely satis ied with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order (postage costs will not be refunded unless faulty). Your contract for supply of goods is with BVG Group. A signature is required on delivery. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of its special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.

To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 69428 or visit 126 FEBRUARY 2017

Budget breaks, plus an insider’s guide to Hull – UK City of Culture 2017

Marina O’Loughlin eats

La Rochelle

This compact city, set on the Bay of Biscay on France’s Atlantic coast, packs an astonishing array of places to eat and drink into a small area. Our columnist recommends her favourites FEBRUARY 2017 127

La Suite

Le Tout de Cru Captain Houblon

128 FEBRUARY 2017

The beloved André ( a kitsch Disneyland of a fish restaurant (if they can drape it with nets, anchors and glass floats, they will), but a bit more our speed, across the inlet on rue Saint-Nicolas, is cool little cooperative restaurant Prao ( With its brick walls and beardy barman, it’s the nearest La Rochelle gets to hipster. There’s no microwave, no freezer: they pride themselves on their freshness and locality (sadly, no longer a given in provincial France): we love our black pudding ‘samoussa’ with ‘black butter’ made from vastly reduced apple, and massive, garlicky sausages from a local farm glazed with their own barbecue sauce. Unusually, they also do a splendid Sunday brunch. They have a gift shop and deli down the road for those essential sea salt caramels and records. Why not? Local insider intel leads us to La Suite (, whose chef, Johan Leclerre, is one of the ‘Meilleur Ouvriers de France’ (Best Craftsman of France). But, with its nightclubby champagne bar, snooty staff and tendency to over-accessorise – I’m not sure that foie gras really needs a balsamic glaze and discs of Chioggia beetroot – it’s not really our kind of place. In a teeny and exquisite square off rue Saint-Nicolas is lovely little La Solette

(11 rue de la Fourche), which benefits – as most places do when off the beaten track – from a very local clientele. We eat tartare and a croustillant de chèvre (goat’s cheese tart) under the trees. Then, rather than having dessert, we find ourselves repairing to Le Panier de Crabes next door (owned by the same people) for a spankingly fresh platter of fruits de mer. These sweet little neighbours provide my favourite La Rochelle lunch. Rue Saint-Nicolas is also home to the ancient, semi-legendary La Guignette (, where supremely saturnine men serve bottles of the eponymous liquor, as neon-bright and sugary as any alcopop. ‘What’s in it?’ I ask one. ‘Wine and fruit,’ he grunts. Hmm. It only opens for a few hours so I’m not sure why they’re so grumpy, but it adds to the enchanting vintage atmosphere. The streets of the old town are lined with shops selling everything from designer clothes to kitchen goods (we nearly acquire a meat slicer in the very well-stocked Culinarion (culinarion. com) but resist when I realise a) the price, and b) that it wouldn’t fit in our luggage. A stroll brings us to the mandatory Place du Marché. I had almost dismissed a visit to the inevitable town market on the grounds that, well, when you’ve

Marina visited La Rochelle with Charente Maritime


f any small city in the UK was blessed with as many restaurants as La Rochelle, it would become a place of fevered foodie pilgrimage. Here, streets bristle with bistro after bistro, brasseries, bars and many, many seafood specialists. The locals deal with this bounty with a small so-what shrug: why wouldn’t we? But for us Brits, it would be as though Watford suddenly sprouted as many places to eat out as central London. We’re staying at the traditionally comfortable Hotel Champlain (, perfect for exploring the ancient, porticoed streets. How to choose from La Ville Blanche’s riches? There’s everything from Michelin stars to converted boats selling fried seafood by the waterfront. The most heavily populated restaurant areas, by the Vieux Port, is dominated by two imposing medieval towers, Tour Saint-Nicholas and Tour de la Chaîne. Of the three quaysides, two appear to be entirely dedicated to eating and drinking. As is rue St Jean du Pérot, where we’re seduced by the famous Ernest le Glacier ( We wallow in caramel ice cream spiked with local salt while watching the nautical life.


Cour du Temple

eat like a local

Prao Café

La Solette Marché du Centre Ville

Le Vieux Port

seen one… How foolish of me – this one is an absolute beauty. A historic marché des halles is open daily for racks of oozing cheeses; piled-up rainbows of soft fruits; fougasses, baguettes and paniers from the bread stalls; and saucissons en croûte, salads, stuffed tomatoes, cheesy baked aubergines and pâtés. And, of course, oysters: we choose from the vast number on offer at Roumégous ( and take them to La Verre et L’Assiette to down with a glass of Entre-Deux-Mers amid the market’s bustle. This is our sharpener before heading to one of the many informal little bistros that fringe the market. Our choice – based only on the fusty cuteness of the interior – is L’Alcazar Café (aka Bistro du Marché, 8 rue Gambetta) where we have rough, meaty terrine studded with pistachios and glorious homemade chips with a rosy filet mignon in cider sauce. For nightcaps, we wind up each evening in the buzzy, bar-lined piazza Cour du Temple ( At Les Mauvais Garçons, like the titular naughty boys, we down shooters on the student-rammed terrace. My husband pines for artisan beer from L’Académie de la Bière across the way, but sometimes it’s fun to pretend to be down with the

yoof. He gets his fix later at hip Captain Houblon (, with its stock of more than 150 different types of artisan and micro-brewery beers. It’s hard not to fall a little bit in love with this compact, attractive city. But of course, one of La Rochelle’s top draws is the bridge over to the Ile de Ré, a tiny island that’s the distillation of everyone’s French fantasies, a necklace of towns linked by beaches and cycle routes that look as though they’ve been designed by Elle Decor. We go, with what appears to be an island’s-worth of wealthy incomers, to O Parloir ( It’s the sort of place I imagine does well on TripAdvisor, but its swankiness seems to be missing the shabby-chic point of the island. Truly beautiful garden, though, and the mouclade Charentaise (local mussels in a light, creamy curry sauce) is a wonderful evocation of the sea. I also like the duck parmentier (a sort of shepherd’s pie), its mash pierced by a crisp bacon wand. Le Tout du Cru (, a little gingham-draped raw bar in an atmospheric alleyway behind the main drag, enchants us. With fine crusty bread and sweet butter, we slurp oyster after oyster and a rather fine, nutty jamón Ibérico de bellota. Later – much, much later – we head for the deliciously raucous and

booze-fuelled Le Bistro du Marin ( with what seems to be every stylish boat owner in the area, for Kir Royales and steak tartare. Oh, and more oysters – why the hell not? When in Charente-Maritime… The ‘5A’ andouillettes de Troyes (sausages made with pork and intestines) – which we can smell before it leaves the kitchen – well, they can keep that particularly delicacy. For a France that often seems hard to find in these homogenous, globalised, McDonald’s days, this corner of the country is pleasingly preserved in aspic. Gourmet aspic, of course. • For more information, visit Marina O’Loughlin is one of the UK’s most knowledgeable food writers, and undercover restaurant reviewer for BBC Good Food and The Guardian Weekend. An intrepid culinary traveller, she researches the most exciting places to visit at each destination, so you’ll know exactly where and what to eat when you get there. For more from Marina, visit @marinaoloughlin @marinagpoloughlin

Next month: Atlantic Canada for family food trails and more

FEBRUARY 2017 129



Hull is the UK City of Culture in 2017, which makes it a must-visit destination this year. From ine dining to excellent ish & chips, there’s plenty to discover words DAVE LEE


Chef-patron James Mackenzie has taken a moribund village boozer and – using the best local ingredients and an imaginative approach to British classics – transformed it into a Michelin-starred pub. Dishes include braised crispy lamb shoulder, green lentil dhal, cardamom carrot & samphire bhaji, and fillet of English beef, ox tongue fritter, watercress Waldorf salad, pickled red onion, Béarnaise sauce & chips. Mains from £12. SO

The fourth in a Yorkshire mini-chain, Ambiente offers traditional and imaginative tapas alongside a sensational wine and sherry cellar. It also has a Josper oven, which adds a smokily charred touch to dishes like bistec de arrachera (dry rubbed skirt of beef with BBQ roasted onions & chimichurri). A good place for a long lunch with lots of little dishes and sampler flights of sherry. Tapas from £1.95. SO, CE

1884 Dock Street Kitchen


This has the feel of a NY steakhouse – big-boy steaks with no-nonsense chips. It also has a theatrical bent, so while the deliberately minimalist menu will leave you wondering how the nettle is utilised in their East Yorkshire rabbit terrine, Scotch quail egg, pickled baby vegetables, tarragon mayonnaise & nettle, the waiting staff will deliver the answer with a practised flourish. Mains from £17; steaks from £29. SO

With just a handful of seats and no menu, chef-patron John Robinson offers by far the best tasting menu within a 40-mile radius. There is a choice of a four- or nine-course menu, and you don’t know what you’re eating until it is explained in intricate detail when it arrives at the table. The spectacular food encompasses all cuisines and is exquisite and complex. Do the nine-course taster for just £50 per head. SO

Butler Whites

No 6 Kitchenette

This is one of the key openings in the newly revived Fruit Market and offers good posh grub for less. The food is classic British with hints of the Med, but by the time you visit, the experimental chefs could just as easily have moved on to Japanese fusion. Recommended are quail Scotch eggs with pickled beets & prune jam, or chargrilled tender octopus with marinated black bean salad & avocado salsa. Mains from £15. SO

Despite the familiar bare bricks, basic tables, sharing boards and imported beers, this place has the distinct advantage of not only serving little dishes (like baked Capricorn cheese with pesto crouton), but also some of the best pizzas in town. If you’ve any sense, you’ll go for the Rubens, as it features pastrami, Dijon and crème fraîche, as well as the master stroke of cider-pickled red cabbage. Pizzas from £7.50. CD, CE

Thieving Harry’s

Gusto da Gianni

Located in a cleverly converted former shipping merchant’s office in the Fruit Market, there’s a short menu of burgers, grilled cheese sandwiches, a couple of salads and some breakfast offerings. It’s all mighty tasty and available with great coffee or intriguing beers. Probably the coolest place to eat in the city, with the best views over the marina. Burgers from £7. CD, CE, KF

The city’s best Italian features the usual classics, but the specials board is where the place really shines. The cuisine leans toward the north of Italy – where chef Gianpaul Rodolfi trained – and the fish is particularly good. If it’s available, have the pan-fried cod cheeks on braised lentils with a caper & parsley sauce. Nothing is complex here, but it’s all wonderful. Mains from £8.95. CD, CE, KF

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Roots Hull’s first Caribbean restaurant is also the best place to get ribs. It offers a mean curry goat and spicy pasties as well – drink Dark & Stormy with them. It’s usually busy with a younger crowd attracted to the cocktails, so be prepared to feel a little crushed, but if you sit back and enjoy the music, you soon get into the atmosphere. Mains from £7.50. CD, CE

Kardomah94 Local businessman and cultural enthusiast Malcolm Scott has turned an empty citycentre office block into an artistic haven, with rehearsal spaces, a theatre-cummusic venue and restaurant. The food is extraordinary: vast thin-crust pizzas, voluminous salads, and generous meat and cheese sharing boards. Pizzas from £9.50. CD, CE, KF

Dave Lee, a writer and ilm-maker, grew up and lives in Hull. He also reviews restaurants for The Yorkshire Post.

SUITABLE FOR CD casual dining CE cheap eat KF kid friendly SO special occasion


Pipe and Glass

eat like a local

Princes Quay

Roasted brill at Whites

The Fish & Chip Kitchen

Thieving Harry’s


foodie places to try

No 6 Kitchenette

The Hull Pie Matt Cunnah’s little marvels have swiftly become nationally renowned awardwinners. Try slow-roast lamb & mint or caramelised beer & beef brisket. Dixons Bakery Spend 33p in this beautiful, unchanged time capsule at 436 Hessle Road and you’ll get a local favourite: hot bread cake, straight from the oven, spread with margerine.


Dope Burger The city’s best burger is served from a scruffy-looking unit next to the train station. You need to try the black & blue burger (featuring steak and treacle) with sweet potato fries. Bob Carvers Fish & chips is the original Hull street food and local legend Bob, found on Chapel Street, is the best-known practitioner. Locals add chip spice to everything – it’s a Hull invention found on the counter of every single chippy.

Pipe and Glass The Hull Pie

The Fish & Chip Kitchen The best place to sample Hull’s greatest pattie butty – battered, mashed tatty and sage served in a bread cake, Hullensians will testify to it being the tastiest food on the planet. the

For 10 more places to eat in Hull, visit


FEBRUARY 2017 131


Foodie breaks on a budget It’s still possible to spend your money wisely and eat well on holiday. Here are six budget breaks within easy reach

Best for BREATHTAKING VIEWS & PIZZA Naples, Italy Why go? Naples may be synonymous with pizza, but the rest of the city’s cuisine, built on traditions of freshness and seasonality, is equally appealing and amazingly affordable. The city itself is noisy, vibrant and an assault on the senses, set against a

breathtaking bay and views of Mount Vesuvius in the distance. What to eat At Cibi Cotti ( nonnaanna) in the Mercatino Rionale Torretta, eat pumpkin lasagne followed by simmered meatballs for less than £9. The mercatino has produce, fish and deli stalls if you’re taking the self-catering route. Budget-conscious diners can feast on savoury potato casserole, ragu-drenched pasta, and marinated veg at Osteria Donna Teresa (Via Kerbaker 58), a tiny familyrun operation in Chiaia. Pizza is sold from stalls and folded for eating on the fly. For seated service, try Da Attilio ( in La Pignasecca, devoted to baking some of the finest

132 FEBRUARY 2017

thick-rimmed pizza in town. Shop at La Pignasecca market and snack on a huge range of street food, including deepfried anchovies and calamari. How to do it Stay at San Gennaro Bed, an antiqueembellished B&B set in a 16th-century palazzo on Via dei Tribunali, in the heart of historic Naples, from £53 a night ( Return flights with Alitalia from £95 ( Katie Parla

Why go? Try a piquant bowl of goulash in its spiritual home before cleansing your palate in Mazel Tov ( or one of Budapest’s other ‘ruin bars’ (set up in abandoned buildings). Make reservations at Borkonyha ( or Tanti ( for affordable upscale dishes. What to eat A popular snack is lángos: garlicky, deep-fried flatbread topped with soured cream and grated cheese. Try it from one of the food stalls beneath the lofty iron framework of the Central Market Hall. Duck goulash, a main at Borkonyha, costs less than £12. Goulash soup features at Kiosk (, a fashionable bar-restaurant


Best for UNDERGROUND BARS & GOULASH Budapest, Hungary

eat like a local

Mazel Tov

within the former University Theatre. Tanti’s three-course lunch menu is less than £13. Try Hungarian wines before buying at Culti Vini ( For something a little stronger, purchase a ‘medicinal’ bottle of Unicum, an intense herbal liqueur, or pálinka, Hungary’s ubiquitous fruit brandy. Hand luggage only? Then buy kolbász, sausage seasoned with garlic and paprika. How to do it Three Corners Hotel Art ( is a modern, three-star property with 36 rooms on the Pest side of the Danube. A double costs from £60 a night, including breakfast.

British Airways, easyJet,, Norwegian Air Shuttle, Ryanair and Wizz Air all fly to Budapest from various UK airports, including Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh, Gatwick, Heathrow, Liverpool and Manchester (from £46; Stuart Forster

Best for HEARTY FOOD & HISTORIC BUILDINGS Kraków, Poland Why go? From pierogi (filled dumplings) to zapiekanki (topped and grilled baguette slices), Polish food is cheap, flavoursome and accessible. There are plenty of places to pick up national and regional dishes while exploring Kraków’s historic core. What to eat If the idea of a sloppy sandwich oozing flavour and gravy makes your mouth water, get your hands around a maczanka, pork seasoned with paprika and garlic, then simmered until tender. The succulent meat is served in a lightly toasted roll and topped with lettuce, raw onion and pickles. Visit the Andrus Food Truck ( AndrusFoodTruck) and select your toppings – it will set you back about £2.50. Pizza-like zapiekanki are available from hatches in the market hall at Plac Nowy in

the city’s Kazimierz quarter. At markets, look out for oscypek, smoked cheese made from sheep’s milk in the Tatra Mountains and pressed into patterned shapes. And try obwarzanki, bagel-like rings of bread topped with poppy or sesame seeds, both sold from street carts. How to do it A studio for two people at Lounge Apartments (lounge is just a 10-minute walk from the heart of Kraków’s Old Town and costs £35 a night. British Airways, easyJet, and Ryanair fly to Kraków from various UK airports, including Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh, Gatwick, Heathrow, Liverpool, Manchester and Newcastle (from £41; Stuart Forster

FEBRUARY 2017 133

Best for MARKETS & NEIGHBOURHOOD RESTAURANTS Lisbon, Portugal Why go? The trick to Lisbon on a budget is keeping it simple. Public transport is cheap, but the city is small enough for you to walk almost everywhere. What to eat For meals on a budget, tascas are the thing to look out for. These simple, local restaurants are everywhere. Don’t judge by appearances, they can be ugly from the outside, but the food is good, plentiful and cheap. Try an alheira (a smoked, bready sausage) or bacalhau à lagareiro (salt cod baked in olive oil). To keep going during the day, cafés and snack bars can be found on almost every street. Coffee is never more

than 60p for an espresso, and cakes and sandwiches are good value and filling. In any restaurant, cheap or expensive, beware the couvert. It might be olives, pâtés, cheeses or hams, and can add considerably to your bill. Just say no – it is always okay to ask to have them taken away. It is also always acceptable to share a dish – say ‘é para dividir’ – and you can ask for ‘água da torneira’ for tap water. If you are self-catering, shop in markets for fresh produce. If you are on the west side of Av Liberdade, visit Mercado da Ribeira in Cais do Sodré, or, to the east, Mercado de 31 de Janeiro in Picoas, and get there before midday. For the ‘Top 10 foods to try in Lisbon’, visit bbcgoodfood. com/howto/guide/top-10things-eat-lisbon. How to do it House rentals away from the centre can work out quite cheaply, especially if sharing with friends – check Airbnb and similar sites for bargain accommodation ( Lucy Pepper

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Why go? Never has there been a better time to visit Greece’s first city. Don’t be fooled by its recent economic challenges. If anything, it’s as if Athenians have woken up, looked around and realised what a showstopping city they live in. What to eat Fuelled by a spirit of enterprise and filoxenia (hospitality), new restaurants, bars, galleries, food and beauty brands spring up daily in this extraordinary city. Greek food is made for sharing. Break bread over tzatziki, spicy feta spread and a selection of grilled meats at value-for-money Kalamaki Bar (Dimitrakopoulou & Drakou 15). For a modern take on Greek cuisine mixed with comfort classics that won’t break the bank, head to Pangrati and sit beneath the orange trees at To Mavro Provato ( It’s popular, so book to sample stuffed courgette blossoms, lamb in parchment, aubergine salad and a wide range of ouzo and raki.

To shop for food to eat or bring home, head to Kolonaki, where lifestyle store Yoleni’s ( has curated food products including cheese, honey, cured meats and organic oils from Greek suppliers over four floors. It also has a winetasting department hosted by oenologists Botilia, so you can sip your way around a selection of Greek island wines without leaving land. For traditional food shopping, visit the Dimotiki Agora on Athinas Street to buy meat, fish, vegetables and a world-class selection of olives. How to do it Nestled in the foothill of the Parthenon, neoclassical guesthouse Alice Inn Athens has beautiful boutique-style rooms & suites from £45-£85 (winter) to £85-£170 (summer) per night ( EasyJet has return fares to Athens from around £70 in February ( Kate Monro


Best for CLASSIC DISHES & LOCAL WINES Athens, Greece

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FORAFOODIEFEBRUARY Do something a little different with your food hobbies this month with Sunbites, the exceptionally tasty multigrain snack


Wakefield Festival of Food, Drink and Rhubarb From 17-19 February, celebrate the heritage of this quirky pink vegetable. The festival includes live demonstrations and workshops from local food and drink producers, showcasing rhubarb’s importance to the local economy.

Best for SEAFOOD & ISLANDS Split, Croatia Why go? Everyone seems to be singing Croatia’s praises these days, and Split, the lesser-known Roman port city on the Adriatic, is where foodies looking for a greatvalue break should head. What to eat The residential, hillside Varo district is a find for atmospheric, affordable tavernas. Try stalwart Konoba Varo (, for its signature calamari with indulgent garlic mayo. For just-caught, grilled fish and spreads of shellfish that challenge English translation, book ahead for one of a dozen tables at Konoba Mateju ka (, in a 19th-century house just off the seafront. Picnics on the beach are a boon for foodies. Buy tangy, green olive tapenade at Uje ( in the old town – this smart, olive-oil-focused outfit also owns a great tapas restaurant nearby. Then stock up on sunripened provisions in Pazar Market, elegantly piled up against the crumbling walls of the Roman Diocletian’s Palace. Highlights here include homemade salamis, jars of heady amber honey, and smallholder’s crops of olives, almonds and ink-black cherries, plus peppery-pungent sheep’s cheese from the


A bite-sized snack with a difference Sunbites are a delicious wavy snack packed with wholegrains, and they’re full of delicious natural flavours, including sun-ripened sweet chilli or sour cream & black pepper.

island of Pag. For giant wheels of crusty sourdough, pop just behind the fish market to Kru i , an artisan bakery with a fanatical following. How to do it The best deals are rental apartments, via the likes of Airbnb. You’ll also get a good deal at the Dioklecijan Hotel & Residence (, which has a rooftop, sea-view pool, and generous buffet breakfast included – £70 for a double. Flights from the UK take just over two hours and leave from many airports. Direct flights to Split operate on a seasonal basis.


Spice up a seasonal chutney No hearty winter cheese board is complete without a spicy chutney and, for a bit of extra heat, why not go for a scrumptious tomato and chilli? Everyone has their own personal spice level, but jalapeños have a perfect all-round flavour.


Rye Bay Scallop Week, Rye, East Sussex Now in its 15th year, this bayside festival on 18-26 February celebrates a county favourite – caught scallops. For a touch of history as you dine, go for scallops at The Mermaid Inn, a 15th-century property full of character and old-school charm. Back at the festival itself, enjoy tastings, cookery schools, demos and live music, all outside.


Unusual uses for black pepper It’s not just a great seasoning, it’s also a flavour enhancer in puddings. It adds an intriguing contrast when folded into a soufflé and really brings out the sweetness when sprinkled on strawberries.

Sarah Barrell


Indoor Food and Craft Market at The Biscuit Factory, Edinburgh From 25-26 February, this funky urban space hosts a plethora of stalls selling unique crafts and tasty treats from local suppliers, with cuisines hailing from all around the globe.



Fantastic getaways

Exclusive offer for BBC Good Food readers: All bookings will receive two free tickets to one of the BBC Good Food Shows*

Your chance to see lions in the wild

The stunning Alhambra Palace

South Africa: 16 days from only £1,899pp**

Classical Spain – Seville, Córdoba & Granada:

Selected departures up to November 2017

Seven days from only £589pp** Selected departures from March to November 2017

South Africans call their homeland ‘a world in one country’. It covers an area equivalent to five times the size of Britain, with a climate ranging from temperate, Mediterranean and subtropical to desert. This tour explores the unique history, wildlife and cities, all complemented by its excellent food and wines. Fully escorted price includes: • Return lights from London Heathrow. • Staying in excellent three and four-star hotels with breakfast, two lunches and three dinners. • Full-day guided safari in Kruger National Park. • Internal light to the stunning Garden Route. • Visit Hermanus for on-shore whale watching (seasonal). • Enjoy a scenic drive through rural Swaziland. • Stay in Western Cape’s Winelands with a cellar tour and tasting. • Visits to the Cape of Good Hope and Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. • Visit to Johannesburg’s Apartheid Museum. • Stay three nights in Cape Town, dominated by Table Mountain+. • Option to spend a night in a tented safari camp, complete with a bushwalk by an experienced ranger. • Escorted by an experienced tour manager. + On selected dates, enjoy a luxury three-day train journey on Rovos Rail from Cape Town to Pretoria.

Andalucía is home to some of Spain’s most beautiful cities, where mellow stone and terracotta absorb the southern sun and gardens are heavy with the scent of orange blossom. Immortalised by the writings of Ernest Hemingway, this is the vibrant, colourful Spain of Carmen, Figaro and flamenco. Fully escorted price includes: • Return lights to Malaga from a selection of regional airports. • Six nights bed and breakfast at excellent, centrally located three and four-star hotels. • Experience unspoilt Andalucía, one of the most iconic Spanish regions. • Guided tour of Seville, city of the Conquistadors. • Guided tour of the impressive Alhambra in Granada. • Visit to Córdoba, with a guided tour of the Mezquita mosque. • Visit to the spectacularly situated city of Ronda. • Escorted by an experienced tour manager. Visit to view video highlights of both trips.

Terms and conditions *Standard tickets for the BBC Good Food Show to be dispatched upon holiday departure. Holidays organised by and subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and are offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. **Per person prices based on two sharing a twin room. Single rooms and optional insurance available at a supplement. Additional entrance costs may apply. Image used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/enquiring if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.

To request a brochure, call 01283 742398. To book, visit 136 FEBRUARY 2017

Barney, our Food editorat-large, has worked as a chef internationally and is a pro at adapting restaurant recipes to make at home. @barney_desmazery


Wasabi photograph STOCKFOOD/EISING STUDIO | Recipe photograph PETER CASSIDY

Expert tips and reviews from Barney Desmazery to help you become a better cook

Wasabi for horseradish Back when sushi seemed exotic, wasabi was described as Japanese horseradish because both plants have a strong, nasal-clearing, mustard lavour that pairs well with oily ish. Wasabi is best served with sushi, but can be used instead of horseradish to add a kick to mash, mayo or dressings. Fresh wasabi is rare in the UK but you can add the powder (which you mix with water), or pre-mixed tubes, straight to foods.


Salt & vinegar seasoning Ever wondered why salt & vinegar crisps aren’t soggy? The secret is in this seasoning, which works well with chips, fish, prawns, kale, vegetable crisps or anything battered and deep-fried. Use this salt to season our ‘fakeaway’ fish & chip recipe on p66 or Emma Freud’s salt & vinegar crisp sandwich on p31 . We’ve used malt vinegar for an authentic chip shop flavour, but you can use any type you want. Apple cider vinegar is a delicious seasoning for roast pork, and red wine vinegar is beautiful with beef. If you get a taste for this seasoning, you can make it in much bigger batches.

SERVES 20 PREP 5 mins plus drying out NO COOK

6 tbsp ine sea salt 3 tbsp vinegar (we used malt) 1 tbsp corn lour

Put all the ingredients into a small bowl and use a wooden spoon to mix into a paste. Scrape the paste onto a baking tray and leave it uncovered at room temperature for 24 hrs until hardened. Use a fork to break up the hardened mix into a coarse powder. Will keep in an airtight container for up to two months.

FEBRUARY 2017 137


Steak masterclass


Fish slice Call it what you will – ish slice, pancake lipper, egg turner, wide spatula – to live up to its ‘ ish slice’ name, it needs to be bendy and ine-edged enough to curve under and lift a piece of ish or fried egg, as well as sturdy enough to prise sticky roast vegetables from a tin. I’ve always trusted the slightly rusty, meltedhandled one that I ‘borrowed’ from my parents. But as a lot of my pans are now non-stick, I’ve upgraded to this lexible slotted version. It’s the right width for turning everything from a thin strip of salmon to a large crêpe. The wide slits mean oil drains back into the pan rather than being carried onto the plate. It won’t scratch non-stick surfaces and is dishwasher-safe. Judge slotted turner for non-stick pan, £6.99,

KitchenAid store, Wigmore Street, London ( cooking-class.content.html) Steak is way too expensive to spoil when you cook it, and everyone likes it done to their own particular speci ications. So how do you get it right? Which cut to choose? How long do you cook it for? And how do you know when it’s perfectly done? As a steak lover, I had a pretty good idea before I went along to KitchenAid’s steak class. However, I realised I still had plenty to learn as chef Emma Power walked our group of six through the essential stages of steak cookery: oil the steak rather than the pan, make sure the pan is searing hot, inish with butter to get a lovely crust, rest on a warm plate. At the end of the course, we tucked into our perfectly cooked creations, accompanied by triplecooked chips, plus Béarnaise sauce and fresh rocket pesto, which we’d

made in a KitchenAid Cook Processor (£849 – an impressive piece of kit if you have the means!). Cost A bargain at £25, the class fee includes your ingredients (three prime cuts of steak) and plenty of sauces to take home. Verdict An extremely enjoyable way to spend a Friday afternoon. Make sure you only have a light breakfast: you won’t be going home hungry. Keith Kendrick


With food costs and waste reduction in mind, we asked master baker Paul Hollywood how to keep bread fresh Don’t put bread in the fridge – it will go stale twice as quickly, as the cool environment draws moisture from it. Keep it at room temperature, unless you want to freeze it, in which case I’d wrap each slice in cling ilm so it’s easier to defrost, or put the frozen slices straight in the toaster. If you keep your bread in a bag, use one that allows it to breathe, like a cloth shopping bag. Plastic makes bread sweat, and it will lose its crust. An old-fashioned bread bin is ideal if you have the space for one in your kitchen.


138 FEBRUARY 2017

test kitchen



Pomegranate You can simply release the seeds by submerging the cut pomegranate in water and giving it a good thwack (see the video at Try this if you want to eat it as a piece of fruit:

1 Tunnel out the lower top of the fruit and trim away the bottom.

Seville oranges are full of pectin and set better than other citrus fruits. As they are unwaxed, they tend to dry out, so use or freeze them quickly. Choose oranges that are irm and heavy (about £2.50/kg, Waitrose).

A sharp knife is essential to slice the peel – you’ll be there all day otherwise. This Robert Welch knife sharpener (£19.96, is easy to use if you’re wary of a knife steel. The ceramic wheels guide the blade into making the right angle.

A jam funnel has a wide mouth to it jars and helps to prevent spillages of very hot marmalade. If used deftly, it will also keep the outsides of the jar clean (£5.24,

Granulated sugar works just as well as sugar with added pectin (which sets faster) or preserving sugar (which leaves less scum on the surface of the liquid). Warm the sugar before adding it so it dissolves easily.

Wax discs save you cutting circles of baking parchment. If you put a disc on top of the hot marmalade, it will melt and seal, and prevent condensation from forming (£2.79 for 200,


3 Use your ingers to prise apart the segments – do this over a bowl to catch any stray seeds. Marmalade photograph STOCKFOOD MAGDALENA HENDEY

Pomegranate illustration GEORGE BLETSIS | Seville orange photograph GETTY |

2 Score along the six natural ridges where the segments of the fruit are.

Homemade marmalade Citrus fruit is in season and if you’re planning to tackle marmalade for the irst time, these pieces of equipment and ingredients will make it easier

4 Pull away the main bits of pith. You can now bite into the segments or separate the seeds. Remember – pomegranate juice stains, so be careful!

Melting chocolate If you’re making Diana Henry’s recipes on p90, it’s worth investing in a digital thermometer to help you get a beautiful silky result. Chop the chocolate into small pieces and put half in a bowl over a pan of barely simmering water. Make sure the water doesn’t touch the base of the bowl as the chocolate will heat up too much, causing it to seize and become grainy. Never cover the bowl – this can create condensation, again causing it to seize. Stir the chocolate occasionally until melted and smooth, ensuring it doesn’t go over 45C. Gradually add the rest of the chocolate, stirring continuously, until everything is melted and glossy.

FEBRUARY 2017 139

12 easy mayo makeovers From Valentine’s steak to homemade ish & chips, the right mayo makes the dish. Add just three ingredients to 100ml of mayo and serve with our suggestions.

Mustard & tarragon

Cheat’s rouille

Moroccan mayo

Easy tartare

Truffle & parmesan

Wasabi & ginger

Avocado & dill

Cocktail sauce

Spicy sriracha

Brilliant blue cheese

Smoky chipotle

Easy Caesar

Do you really need to... rest batter? Many recipes for pancakes and Yorkshire puddings say you should let the batter rest before cooking. Chefs disagree not only on whether a batter needs to stand at all, but also on how long for (some say as little as half an hour, others suggest overnight), and on what resting does. Does it make the batter lighter? Thicker? Help it to rise? Anna Lawson, our editorial assistant, made two identical batters for pancakes and Yorkshire puddings by following highly rated recipes from For both the pancakes and the Yorkies, Anna rested one batter overnight and made the other just before cooking to see if there was a difference. To ensure the test was fair, only the resting times were changed – the methods, temperatures and cooking times were kept the same. First up, pancakes Our testers were hard-pressed to ind any difference between the rested and fresh batters, but agreed that the freshly made pancakes were slightly lighter and airier. Next, the Yorkies Again, the testers didn’t notice much difference, but those made with the rested batter were more uniform in size and shape, and tasted less eggy. Verdict If you want to get ahead and make the batter beforehand, ine, but leaving it to the last minute won’t affect your recipe. Note: this only applies to crêpestyle pancakes. American pancake batter contains a raising agent and should be cooked as soon as it has been made.

Leftover pancake batter makes good Yorkshire puddings and toad-in-the-hole, and vice versa!

Illustration VICKI TURNER


140 FEBRUARY 2017

test kitchen


Non-stick frying pans Barney Desmazery and features editor Natalie Hardwick rate kitchen kit each month. Find more reviews online

BEST ETHICAL CHOICE GreenPan Venice Pro, £45, Most modern non-stick coatings are free from toxic chemicals, but Greenpan’s Thermolon ceramic coating is worth shouting about. It is free from per luorooctanoic acid (PFOA) – a man-made chemical that is traditionally used as a non-stick coating and has been linked to adverse health effects. Happily, this pan also has excellent non-stick credentials, it is good value for money and it cooks evenly too.

star HOW WE TESTED We fried eggs and pancakes without oil. Pans that claimed to be dishwasher safe were run through a cycle and then used again. Each pan was dropped from waist height onto a hard loor to see if it dented or buckled.




A resilient non-stick coating At some time or another, you will accidentally scrape a metal utensil on the non-stick surface, so you want to be sure that the coating is tough. If it scratches after one mistake, that doesn’t cut the mustard. We also looked for innovations in coating technology. Minimal cleaning required Even if the instructions say the pan can be put in the dishwasher, to preserve the life of the non-stick coating you’ll really need to wash up by hand. So, we were looking for a pan that needed minimal cleaning and no scrubbing, to protect the surface for as long as possible. A good handle Ideally, the handle should be riveted. We also looked for handles free from dirt traps and those that wouldn’t get too hot to hold. Oven friendly Our favourite pans could be used in the oven as well as on the hob.

Scanpan CTX, £119, Danish cookware titan Scanpan excels in pans with excellent non-stick qualities that last. This ceramic pan is sturdy but still lightweight, with a well-shaped, comfortable handle. It survived the Good Food drop test, despite being one of the lighter pans we tried.

SKK Titanium 2000 Plus, £89, Barney’s had this cast aluminium pan for years and swears by it. It has a wide, lat surface area so you can cook a lot at the same time, plus it’s nice and solid. The detachable handle means it can be used in the oven, and the coating is effective. However, it doesn’t work on induction hobs.



Colour change ceramic coated pan, £12.09, Perfect for beginner cooks, the pan’s base changes colour when it reaches the correct temperature. The ceramic coating means that barely anything sticks to it, and the manufacturer boasts that its non-stick Cerasure technology means that you use less oil when cooking. A bargain buy.

Hard anodised pan, £39.99, If you’re happy to buy cheaper cookware and replace it periodically, then this is a great pan. It’s lightweight and has a curved handle that stays cool even when the pan is extremely hot. It’s triple-coated in Te lon®, which suggests longevity, although our eggs caught a little compared with more expensive pans.

Next month: Chefs’ knives for under £40

FEBRUARY 2017 141

Canelés de Bordeaux


Canelés Dominique Ansel shows us how to make perfect canelés in the Good Food Test Kitchen photographs DAVID COTSWORTH

A canelé is a cork-shaped pastry from Bordeaux, which has a caramelised crust and a soft middle. Making them is proof of the cook’s patience and dedication. You have to wait 24 hours for the gluten to rest, so that the canelés rise straight up. Some creations demand effort to achieve perfection. Next time you want to show you care, skip the flashy dinner: nothing says ‘I love you’ like a perfect canelé. Season the moulds and make the batter the day before baking. The batter can be kept in the fridge in an airtight container, with cling film pressed directly onto the surface, for up to 5 days. MAKES 16 PREP 25 mins plus overnight resting COOK 55 mins A CHALLENGE

470ml full-fat milk 50g good-quality French unsalted butter 1 /2 vanilla pod, split lengthways and seeds scraped out 230g granulated sugar 1 medium egg and 2 medium egg yolks, beaten 50ml dark rum 120g plain lour beeswax (available from amazon., melted, to grease the moulds (if they are copper)


Following the success of his bakeries in New York and Tokyo, French-born pastry chef Dominique Ansel made his UK debut last year when he opened on Elizabeth Street in London’s Belgravia (dominiqueansellondon. com). The man who created the Cronut (a croissantdoughnut hybrid) also serves magic soufflés, cookie shots and frozen s’mores alongside classic patisserie. @dominiqueansel

142 FEBRUARY 2017

Make the batter a day in advance. Put 160ml milk, the butter, the vanilla pod and seeds, and 20g sugar in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over a medium heat. Remove from the heat and let cool to about 38C or until lukewarm to the touch – too cool and the butter will congeal, too hot and the eggs will start to cook. Whisk in the egg mixture until incorporated, then mix in the rum and the rest of the milk. Mix the flour, remaining sugar and 1/2 tsp salt together in a bowl. Whisk in the liquid in thirds, scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl between additions. Avoid overwhisking: too many air bubbles

2 3

will result in dry canelés. The batter should have the same consistency as double cream. Strain the batter through a sieve into an airtight container. Press cling film directly onto the surface of the batter to prevent a skin from forming. Close the lid tightly and chill in the fridge overnight to rest the batter. Heat oven to 230C/210C fan/gas 8. Warm eight (or 16 if you have them) 5cm canelé moulds on the middle shelf in the oven for 5-10 mins. This helps to give the canelés a crunchy, caramelised exterior. Brush the moulds with a thin layer of melted beeswax (too much will cause the mixture to spill out during baking). Wring the cling film of any mixture that sticks to it, then gently mix to recombine ingredients that may have settled overnight. Do not overmix, or you risk incorporating too much air. The more uniform the batter, the better the final product. Fill each mould with batter. Be sure to leave 0.5cm at the top – when the canelé bakes, it will rise slightly and then sink, so it is important to account for this. Put the moulds on a baking tray and bake on the middle shelf for 10-15 mins. Rotate the tray by 180 degrees, reduce oven temperature to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 and bake for 30-35 mins. (Baking time can vary depending on your oven.) Keep an eye on the canelés’ colour during the final mins to avoid over- or underbaking. The bottom should be a deep maple syrup colour. Remove the canelés from the oven, let sit for 10 mins, then turn the moulds upside down and gently tap the base until the canelé drops out. Cool completely before serving.







PER CANELÉ 147 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 3g • carbs 21g • sugars 16g • ibre 3g • protein none • salt 0.2g

Made some canelés? We’d love to see your photos – tag them on Instagram #bbcgoodfood

test kitchen










FEBRUARY 2017 143






Editor Gillian Carter Deputy editor Elaine Stocks Senior art editor Rachel Bayly Designer Suzette Scoble Junior designer Cherry Fermor Picture editor Gabby Harrington Chief sub-editor Art Young Deputy chief sub-editor Fiona Forman Editorial assistant Anna Lawson PA to Gillian Carter and Al ie Lewis Emma Bales Subscriptions director Helen Ward Subscriptions marketing manager Natalie London Head of production Koli Pickersgill Production manager Kate Gristwood Senior management accountant Len Bright Management accountant Noma-Afrika Pele Finance director Stephen Lavin Group marketing manager Tom Townsend-Smith Marketing executive Amy Donovan Reader offer manager Liza Evans Head of newstrade marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade marketing manager Charlotte Watts Head of digital content Hannah Williams Editor Roxanne Fisher Features editor Natalie Hardwick Family editor Lily Barclay Writer Sarah Lienard Acting travel editor Sarah Barrell Digital assistant Georgina Kiely Product manager Mariana Bettio Head of digital publishing Alex White

Group advertising director Jason Elson Group head, brand Catherine Nicolson Senior sales, brand Abigail Snelling Sales executive, brand Krystan Irvine Group head, partnerships Josh Jalloul Senior sales, partnerships Emma Newman Senior sales, partnerships Rachel Tredler Project manager, partnerships Emily Griffin Group head, digital Anna Priest Group head, digital partnerships Roxane Rix Senior sales, digital Carly Ancell Senior sales, inserts Harry Rowland Classi ied sales exec Tim Bennett Regional business development manager Nicola Rearden

Acting senior food editor/ restaurants Lulu Grimes Senior food editor Cassie Best Food editor-at-large Barney Desmazery Assistant food editor Miriam Nice Cookery writer Sophie Godwin Cookery assistant Elena Silcock

River Street Events Managing director Laura Biggs Commercial director Paul Patterson Editorial & production editor Sophie Walker bbcgoodfoodshow@

INTERNATIONAL Director of international licensing and syndication Tim Hudson Syndication manager Richard Bentley International partners manager Anna Brown Licensing & syndication Thanks this month to Hayley Austin, Sarah Birks, Katy Gilhooly, Agathe Gits, Kate Hughes, Sergej Kozacenko, Dominic Martin, Odhran O’Donoghue, Luis Peral, Sarah Snelling, Sally Williams, Becci Woods, Sophie Wyburd, Joanna Zenghelis

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Rosie Birkett Joanna Blythman Kathryn Custance (TV) Emma Freud Diana Henry Tom Kerridge Victoria Moore (wine) Marina O’Loughlin (travel) John Torode Kerry Torrens Joe Wicks

BBC BOOKS Acting editorial director Lisa Dyer Editor Charlotte Macdonald cmacdonald@penguin

MAGAZINE EDITORIAL REVIEW BOARD Donna Clark Acting head of commissioning, factual features & formats BBC One and BBC Two Clare McGinn Head of BBC network radio & production, Bristol Adrian Padmore Assistant commissioner, BBC Daytime & Early Peak Valentina Harris Sue Robinson

BRAND TEAM Publishing director Chris Kerwin

Brand editorial director Christine Hayes

Brand creative director Martin Topping

Senior PR manager Ridhi Radia

Brand executive Natasha Gandotra

Head of partnerships, UK publishing Marc Humby



President, BBC Worldwide UK and ANZ Marcus Arthur Director of consumer products and publishing Andrew Moultrie Director of editorial governance Nicholas Brett Publishing co-ordinator Eva Abramik

Chairman Stephen Alexander CEO Tom Bureau Group publishing director Al ie Lewis Publishing director Simon Carrington

BBC Good Food magazine is owned by BBC Worldwide and published on its behalf by Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT

Get the best from our recipes Our recipes are triple-tested: we cook them all three times to ensure they work for you • Always read the recipe thoroughly before starting, and use standard measuring spoons for accuracy. • Where possible, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainably sourced ish. • We help you to avoid waste by using full packs, or suggesting how to use leftovers. • If egg size is important, we’ll state it in the recipe. Helping you to eat well Our nutritional therapist analyses our recipes on a per-serving basis, not including

optional serving suggestions. You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the official amount an adult should consume daily: Energy 2,000 cals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note, RIs for saturates, sugar and salt are maximum daily amounts). How we label our recipes Our vegetarian (V) or vegan recipes are clearly labelled, but check pack ingredients to ensure they’re suitable. If we say you can freeze a

150 FEBRUARY 2017

recipe (G), freeze for up to three months unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. A low-fat recipe has 12g of fat or less per serving. A recipe is ‘healthy’ if it is low in saturated fat, with 5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and low in sugar, with 15g or less. A low-calorie recipe has 500 calories or less per main course, 150 calories or less for a dessert. We include the number of portions of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and the vitamins

or nutrients that it contains. • Please note that recipes created for Advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested in the Good Food Test Kitchen. • Our gluten-free recipes are free from gluten, but this may exclude serving suggestions. For more info, visit • We regret that we are unable to answer individual medical/ nutritional queries.



Low cal

Low fat

Starters, sides & drinks


•• •

• •


• •

Celebrate Pancake Day!

• •

Jacket potato with whipped feta & sumac 46 Mozzarella stuffed-crust pizza 108 Onion & goat’s cheese tarts 112 Roasted carrot, rocket & lentil salad 81 Swede gnocchi with crispy sage 42 Sweet potato noodle soup 69 The world’s greatest salt & vinegar crisp sandwich 31 Veg-packed noodle & egg bowls 69 Winter vegetable & goat’s cheese pasties 123



Fish & seafood Baked red mullet with bacon, leeks & grapefruit 114 Fish & chip pie 154 Fish & chips with coconut batter and tartare sauce 66 Parsnip latkes with smoked haddock & poached egg 38 Prawn jambalaya 87 Sardine pasta with crunchy parsley crumbs 45 Sesame salmon, purple sprouting broccoli & sweet potato mash 82 Singapore noodles with prawns 64 Sushirrito 10


Meat & game Baked sweet potatoes with steak fajita illing 70 Chorizo & chilli pepper pasta 74 Egg-fried cauli lower rice with prawn cracker crumbs 48 Lemony lamb meatballs 54 Marinated lamb leg, romanesco & pickled walnuts 102 Meatball-stuffed squash with spinach sauce 119 Smoky braised brisket 98 Sticky hoisin pork steaks 46 Teriyaki pork meatballs 69 Turkish kebabs with tomato chilli sauce 64 Twice-cooked pork belly with cider sauce 58


Vegetarian mains

•• special


Asian chicken noodle soup 84 Butter chicken 63 Chicken, mozzarella & pesto ilo parcels 118 Chicken wings with chilli & date caramel 54 Lime marmalade chicken 74 Mediterranean turkey-stuffed peppers 79

Blood orange & cardamom pancakes (aebleskiver) 98 Flippin’ grapefruit pancakes 11 Herbs & honey pancakes 11 Pancake gold 11 Paneer-stuffed pancakes 48 Pan-kalva pancakes 11 Protein pancakes 107 Tiramisu-topped pancakes 11

• ••

Suitable for freezing


Baked feta with sumac & grapes 52 Barley & bulghar chopped herb salad 54 Bergamot mojito 102 Burnt butter cabbage 58 Charred leeks with anchovy dressing 40 Crackling potato cake 58 Leek & butter bean soup with crispy kale & bacon 44 Oyster pomelo with crème fraîche 102 Rhubarb & custard cocktail 14 Roasted roots fattoush 38 Salt-baked celeriac & brown butter 103 Smoked mackerel pâté & cucumber 56 Turnip tarti lette 38

Gluten free



Baking & desserts Butterscotch banana pie 49 Canelés de Bordeaux 142 Chocolate & lime cake 94 Chocolate ganache with sea salt, olive oil & toasts 94 Crème a la Carême 15 Espresso, hazelnut & chocolate shortbread 92 Funfetti cake 116 Indian coconut ice 121 Matcha & white chocolate blondies 74 Matcha madeleines 98 Pistachio & black cherry Bakewell tarts 74 Pistachio sponge, honey & thyme crème fraîche & frosted pistachios 111 Rhubarb Tatin 55 Sesame latbreads 54 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE Sticky toffee parsnip pudding 42 Tea & biscuits ice cream 58 Tropical cheesecake bars 108 Yogurt panna cotta, hunza apricots & popcorn 104



FEBRUARY 2017 151

74 new triple-tested recipes

This month’s recipes


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Visit and use the code BBC17 to take advantage of this special offer 152 FEBRUARY 2017

Your feedback

We love to hear from you. Get in touch at the addresses below


Great eats

My sister and I have been veggie for just over a year now, and your magazine has been so helpful for keeping us from eating the same meals over and over. I’ve just inished reading this month’s issue and it’s now full of folded corners, marking all the dishes I’m going to copy into my recipe book! Kendal Delaney, Stirlingshire

Every month, we ask a Good Food fan to recommend a favourite restaurant, café, market or deli.

Kendal wins 12 bottles of Villa Maria Private Bin Rosé 2016 (£10.30, Wine Rack), which has bright loral aromas, and red fruit and spice lavours. Villa Maria’s head winemaker, Nick Picone, suggests matching this lively, fresh rosé with zesty oriental food.

You’ve been posting our recipes… #bbcgoodfood

This month, Sophie Wyburd recommends Pasha in Withington, Manchester (

As a nutritional therapist who is passionate about agro-ecology and sustainable, local farming, I was glad to see Joanna Blythman’s column explaining her reservations about veganism in terms of health and the impact farming has on our environment. Her article gave a good overview of a complex picture. Sally Beare, Bristol @iain_baxter Iain served these halloumi fries (Dec 2016) with harissa & lemon yogurt for a delicious dinner party starter.

@aicawthron Our full English shakshuka (Dec 2016) is a breakfast of champions for Alex.

I was unimpressed with Joanna’s article on veganism. The point about the environmental impact of importing food completely ignored the contribution that animal farming makes to climate change. I also felt that she glossed over some of the reasonable concerns vegans have about farming animals by saying she buys cruelty-free meat and dairy – many vegans don’t think such a thing exists. Laura Bruton, North Yorkshire

Pasha is my favourite restaurant to go to with friends. They serve delicious Lebanese meze, perfect for sharing, including silky-smooth houmous, fresh latbreads, an outstanding chicken shish kebab, and their take on a moussaka. I have yet to encounter any duds on the extensive menu. The service is great, and the owner is very friendly and accommodating. To top it off, it’s BYOB! Know somewhere good in your area? Tell us what makes it stand out – we’ll publish a recommendation in every issue. Let us know on Facebook and Twitter using the hashtag #gfeatsout

I made the blue cheese banger croissants from your 2017 recipe calendar for a family get-together. They tasted amazing and went down a treat! Phoebe Leonard, York

Write to BBC Good Food, Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT Email us at Find us on social media @bbcgoodfood and tag us #bbcgoodfood This magazine is owned by BBC Worldwide and produced on its behalf by Immediate Media Co. London Limited. © Immediate Media Company London Limited, 2017. BBC Worldwide’s pro its are returned to the BBC for the bene it of the licence-fee payer. BBC Good Food provides trusted, independent advice and information that has been gathered without fear or favour. When receiving assistance or sample products from suppliers, we ensure our editorial integrity and independence are not compromised by never offering anything in return, such as positive coverage, and by including a brief credit where appropriate. We make every effort to ensure the accuracy of the prices displayed in

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FEBRUARY 2017 153

last bite

Fish & chip pie Hearty homemade pie meets traditional British takeaway for a doubly comforting supper recipe CASSIE BEST photograph CLARE WINFIELD

SERVES 6 PREP 45 mins COOK 1 hr 5 mins EASY

Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling WEI TANG

3 eggs (at room temperature) 50g butter, plus extra to serve 2 tbsp rapeseed oil, plus a drizzle 2 onions, chopped 50g plain lour 600ml milk small bunch lat-leaf parsley 6 small cornichons (about 2 tbsp), rinsed and inely chopped 1 tbsp capers, rinsed and inely chopped 1 lemon, zested and juiced 800g loury potatoes, such as Maris Piper 600g skinless and boneless haddock, cut into chunks 1 tbsp malt vinegar 200g frozen peas

1 Boil the eggs for 7 mins, then plunge straight into cold water and set aside to cool. 2 Melt the butter in a large saucepan and add the oil and onions. Cook for 5 mins or until soft. Stir in the flour for 1 min to make a paste, then add the milk bit by bit, stirring as you go, to make a smooth sauce the consistency of double cream. Add the parsley, cornichons, capers and lemon juice, and season to taste. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Peel the potatoes, cut into chips, put in a pan of water. Bring to a simmer, cook for 2 mins, then drain – the potatoes should still hold their shape. Leave to steam-dry for 5 mins. 4 Spread half the sauce over the base of a large shallow casserole dish (ours was 30cm). Scatter the fish on top, peel and quarter the eggs, and add these too. Top with the remaining sauce. In a bowl, toss the chips with the vinegar, a drizzle of oil and some seasoning. Scatter over the pie and bake for 40 mins until the potatoes are golden. 5 Meanwhile, cook the peas in a pan of boiling water for 2-3 mins, then drain and mash lightly with a knob of butter and the lemon zest. Serve alongside the pie. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • ibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 446 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 7g • carbs 40g • sugars 10g • ibre 6g • protein 30g • salt 0.6g

Special issue! Food, feminism and the women who inspired us to cook




Good Food - Feb 2017 UK