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50 days of cinema a Christmas in FLorence Events & exhibitions Restaurants, Nightlife & Wellness




A Christmas in Florence


The Magi Chapel Dante’s Florence


Silent Night Thanksgiving

Exhibitions & events LoveFlorence Year #11 – Issue #6 November/December 2013 Free magazine for international students also published online at Editorial office: Advertising inquiries: Tel. +39.055.412199 The Publisher is pleased to acknowledge the authorship and author’s rights of any photos whose source it has not been possible to trace. While every care has been taken to ensure accuracy, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or changes in the information provided.

Published by MARKED srl Tel +39.055.412199 2

The Russian Avant-garde Other Exhibitions A Manga Made in Florenze Events Pop Music Classical Music


Wellness Reviews


Tuscan Olive Oil Christmas Delights Arnold Coffee Flavours of Tuscany Gelaterie Reviews Pizza Pizza Pizza!



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Nightlife Reviews





a Christmas in florence A Shopping Guide


hen it comes to shopping abroad, Italy is a cut above the rest. From tailored leather to some of the world’s greatest selection of wines, you really cannot go wrong in the “boot.” The only thing one might find difficult to bring back through customs is the gelato. International students arriving in Florence during the fall semester often feel obliged to complete their Christmas shopping for loved ones, and this guide is intended to assist you in making those tough shopping decisions. At the top of any dependent student’s Christmas list should be something that represents the inseparable 4

bond between parent and child. Good gift ideas include DOCG wines, hand bags, or a new Italian-English dictionary for obvious reasons. The most important question one should ask themselves is: can you find it in America? And if not, would your parents wear it ten years from now? Grandparents are the easiest of the bunch – if you offend them you won’t see them as often. Most grandmothers enjoy leather goods or jewelry. Ask them for their glove and clothing sizes before you depart and then seek out stores dotting the Arno River and the inner city. Make sure to smile on Christmas Day when you explain to her that those gloves are 100% Italian. 5

No trip is complete without bring back a couple bottles of wine. For those under 21, sneak your bottles through customs at your discretion, for everyone else look DOCG labeled wines. DOCG stands for “Denominazione Origine Controllata e Garantita,” the highest level of grape control in Italy. – At max you will be able to bring back three bottles in your suitcase due to tight restrictions on liquids. Every girl loves a new pair of earrings. Like a purse, this can be a tough purchase without some previous knowledge of what the person on your list prefers; sterling silver, gold, etc.? This is another case of do or die shopping that is best resolved by a quick e-mail to your loved one asking them to send an image of what they would like to add to their collection. You have been taking thousands of pictures, right? Well, when you return to the States one of the best ways to “debrief” your family on your adventures and preserve your memories is a scrapbook. Invite your family to add their comments and emails. Who knows maybe in the distant future your little ones will pick it up and follow in your footsteps.




the magi chapel Face to Face with the Magi in Palazzo Medici-Riccardi


efinitely one of the must-see sights in Florence: it’s the famous Cappella dei Magi (Chapel of the Three Kings) decorated by Benozzo Gozzoli in 1459-60 as a private place of worship for the Medici family in their newly built palazzo in via Larga (now via Cavour). The chapel is on the piano nobile of the palace, and was one of the first decorations executed after the completion of the edifice by Michelozzo. Gozzoli painted his cycle over three of the walls, the subject being the Journey of the Magi to Bethlehem, a virtually never-ending train of followers surrounds the Three Wise Men on their way to Bethlehem, but the religious theme was a pretext to depict the procession of important people who arrived in Florence in occasion of the Council of Florence (1439). The Medici could boast to have favoured the reconciliation between the Catholic and the Byzantine churches. The luxury of the Byzantine dignitaries is manifest, and shows the impression they would have at the time on the Florentine population. Over a landscape depicted in incredible detail and probably influenced by Early Netherlandish artists (perhaps through tapestries), Gozzoli portrayed the members of the Medici family riding in the foreground of the fresco on the wall at the right of the altar. A young Lorenzo il Magnifico leads the procession on a white horse, followed by his father Piero the Gouty and the family founder, Cosimo. Then come Sigi 8

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smondo Pandolfo Malatesta and Galeazzo Maria Sforza, respectively lord of Rimini and Milan: they did not take part in the Council, but were guests of the Medici in Florence in the time the frescoes were painted. After them is a procession of illustrious Florentines, such as the humanists Marsilio Ficino and the Pulci brothers, the members of the Art Guilds and Benozzo himself. The painter can be recognized for he is looking towards the observer and for the scroll on his red hat, reading Opus Benotii. On the following wall, the bearded character on a white horse is the Byzantine emperor John VIII Palaiologos; the three girls next to him have been identified as the three daughters of Piero de’ Medici, Nannina, Bianca and Maria. Finally, on the wall to the left of the altar are Pope Pius II, portrayed as an old man on a mule, preceded by Lorenzo’s elder brother, Giuliano, carrying a leopard on his horse. In the same scene can be seen theJoseph, Patriarch of Constantinople and other Byzantine dignitaries, surrounded by exotic animals, such as a lynx and a falcon. Visitors can only enter the chapel in tiny groups that can stay there for seven minutes, during which one cannot help feeling daunted by the several


hundred square feet of lavishly detailed frescos. But here’s the good news: a unique multimedia system has just been installed to complement the visit by helping visitors learn and familiarize with the hidden meanings of the scene and characters before they proceed to the chapel itself. users can interact in a truly natural way with multimedia audio and video contents: visitors can select the language of their choice, navigate information windows, scroll presentations and enter virtual environments all without wearing or handling any kind of device, but simply by pointing their hand in the air towards buttons and spots of interest on a large screen. .The project is called Laboratorio di Lorenzo (Lorenzo’s workshop) because it is located in the ground-floor room at the NW corner of the palace inner courtyard which is supposed to have been the splendid chamber of Lorenzo il Magnifico as recorded in the inventory of the property that was compiled on his death in 1492.


MAgi Chapel palazzo MEdici RIccardi Via Cavour, 3 - 055.2760340

Open 9-19 - Closed on Wednesdays

Shopping at I Gigli more at: < >


Gigli, with its 13 million visitors a year, is definitely Tuscany’s most popular shopping destination. I Gigli Shopping Centre is truly a shopper’s paradise, featuring numerous department stores, a host of familiar favourites and hundreds of unique stores exclusive to I Gigli such as: Trussardi, Timberland, Zara, Coin, Foot Locker, Conte of Florence, and many others. No place is better than I Gigli if you enjoy shopping. With over 120 stores, a hypermarket, restaurants, you’re sure to find everything you’re looking for and more. I Gigli offers over 18 restaurants, coffee bars, pubs and bars where you can relax. I Gigli is located in Campi Bisenzio near Florence, easily accessible from the A11 freeway (exit at Prato est), or by bus (Lazzi company) which departs directly from Florence Santa Maria Novella railway station for I Gigli. Exciting entertainment shows with special events available on and 16 cinemas at multiplex UCI CINEMA.

I Gigli Shopping Center Via San Quirico, 165 - Campi Bisenzio (FI) 055.8974546




dante’s florence A walk through


he heart of medieval Florence starts from one side of Via del Corso and, more specifically, lies between the church of San Martino del Vescovo, the Badia Fiorentina and the Bargello. In the middle of this ancient triangle you can find the site of the 13th century houses of the Alighieri family, according to many documents of the time. Dante Alighieri (Florence, 1265 - Ravenna, 1321) is universally known as the author of the Divine Comedy, a poem that is acknowledged as one of the supreme masterpieces of world literature as well as the literary work that officially gave birth to the Italian language. Badia Fiorentina This area is dominated in particular by the monumental complex of the Badia Fiorentina. This Benedictine Abbey is the oldest monastery in the city (being founded in 978), although much of the structure we can see today dates from 1285. The hexagonal bell tower rises high above the city skyline. Radically transformed in the Baroque period, the interior contains many works of Art: the monument to Count Ugo of Tuscany by Mino da Fiesole and the Apparition of the Virgin to St. Bernard by Filippino Lippi. The Cloisters of the Aranci created by Rossellino can be reached from the sacristy. 14

House of Dante

Santa Margherita deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Cerchi The Church of Santa Margherita dei Cerchi is considered the church of Dante, as it was where the poet married Gemma Donati and, according to tradition, when he was only nine years old, he also met his beloved Beatrice Portinari for the first time. This is where Folco Portinari, Beatriceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s father was buried, as well as the nurse Monna Tessa. In spite of the commemorative plaque, the theory that Beatrice herself was buried here is most unlikely because, as she married into the Bardi family, she was most probably laid to rest in her husbandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s family tomb, situated in the Great Cloisters of Santa Croce.

The House of Dante is situated between the little square and Via di Santa Margherita, opposite the Tower of the Castagna and the remains of the Church of San Martino al Vescovo. Although it was built in the first decade of the 20th century, it is undoubtedly one of the most suggestive buildings in the city. Dante was in fact born under in 1265 right here in the heart of mediaeval Florence and documentary evidence tells us that this was the site of the houses of the Alighieri family.



the russian avant-garde Siberia & the East Kandinsky, Malevich, Filonov, Goncharova more at: < >


The Russian Avant-garde, Siberia and the East. palazzo strozzi Piazza Strozzi, 1 055 2469600 055.2645155 16

he first international exhibition to examine the fundamental importance of the Oriental and Eurasian connection to Russian Modernism, follows the destinies of Russia’s self-proclaimed “Barbarians” in their search for new sources of artistic inspiration. Neolithic stone figures, Siberian shaman rituals, popular Chinese prints, Japanese engravings, Theosophical doctrine and Indian philosophy are some of the elements which inspired Russia’s new artists and writers as they developed their aesthetic and theoretical ideas just before and after the Revolution of October, 1917. Emphasising the key role which radical Russian artists played in the development of Modern art over a century ago, the exhibition underscores their complex relationship with the Orient. Bakst, Filonov, Goncharova, Kandinsky, Malevich and other prime movers of the avant-garde were deeply aware of the importance of the East and contributed to the rich debate which left a profound and permanent imprint upon their creative imagination. In addition to the heroes of the Russian Avant-garde, the exhibition also acquaints us with other, less familiar, but still original, artists of the time such as Nikolai Kalmakov, Sergei Konenkov and Vasilii Vatagin, many of whose works are being shown in the West for the first time. Until January 19th




nstable Territory. Borders and identity in contemporary art, curated by Walter Guadagnini and Franziska Nori, showcases work by international artists which will encourage visitors to reconsider the notion of territory. Whilst the latter is increasingly characterised by the obsolescence of such concepts as the nation state and borders, there is, at the same time, a return to new forms of nationalism and renewed interest in the individual in relation to a specific area or community. The astonishing development of mobility, the digitisation of communication and knowledge have all radically changed peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perception of territories. Two different trends appear to be taking shape: one based on seeking shelter in the safety and proximity of the micro-territory; the other involving a new conception of cosmopolitanism in its most democratic and egalitarian sense. Until January 19th


CsSS STROZZINA Palazzo strozzi Piazza Strozzi,1 - 055.2645155


Izis Poet of Photography More at: < >


he exhibition dedicated to Izis Bidermanas, showing a selection of about 120 photographs and the screening of the film entitled “Aperçus d’une vie (Scorci di vita)”, is a chance to discover something really new, as well as find out more about the intense activity of this author; he is considered one of the greatest humanist photographers of the last century and a poet of imagery, portraitist and reporter who, after being exiled from Lithuania as a young man, tried to find rest in the ‘Paris of his dreams’. Years later his photographs, sharply defined by the light and with a particularly sensitive atmosphere, are always evidence of great poetry. Although Izis is mentioned in all histories of photography and has written many books, which are considered timeless models of reference, he is still, even today, little known as an artist to the general public. Until January 6th

MNAF Museo Nazionale Alinari della fotografia Piazza S. M. Novella 14a/r 055.216310 19

Impressionists at Pitti Palace More at: < >


Impressionists at Pitti Palace Gallery of Modern Art palazzo pitti Piazza Pitti, 1 055.294883


his extraordinary event is the result of an exchange between the two important French and Italian museums. In fact, as a sign of good will, the Musée d’Orsay has loaned these 12 Impressionist masterpieces to repay the Gallery of Modern Art for its important contribution towards the “Les Macchiaioli. Des Impressionnistes italiens?” exhibition, which was held last year at the Musée de l’Orangerie in Pari. The two Degas, two Monets, two Cezannes, two Renoirs, two Pissarros and the Fantin Latour, as well as a work by Paul Guigou, on display in the show can suggest further forms of study and research able to highlight any possible contamination between the two cultures, French and Tuscan. Until January 5th

Renaissance from Florence to Paris the Jacquemart-André collection More at: < >

orty masterpieces of the Florentine Renaissance from the Jacquemart-André Museum in Paris will be exhibited for the first time in Italy at the Museum Bardini. Paintings by Paolo Uccello, Sandro Botticelli, Andrea Mantegna, Luca Signorelli, sculptures by Giambologna and Donatello. Works purchased in Florence since 1882 at the atelier of the antiquarian Stefano Bardini by the banker Edouard Andre and his wife, the painter Nelie Jacquemart. An exhibition that retraces the epic story of the great Florentine antique dealers and that incredible season of international collectors between nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Until January 6th.


Renaissance from Florence to Paris JacquemartAndré collection Museo BArdini Costa San Giorgio, 2 055.20066206


other exhibitions Art of Magna Graecia. The Colombo Collection Museo Archeologico Nazionale Piazza SS.Annunziata, 9/B 09/04/2013 - 03/12/2013 Horne & Friends. Florence a dream to be saved Museo Horne - Via dei Benci, 6 27/05/2013 - 07/12/2013 The Amazing shoemaker. Fairy tales about shoes and shoemakers Museo Salvatore Ferragamo Piazza S.TrinitĂ , 5/r 19/06/2013 - 31/03/2014 Cycling through the Past. Stories of Men and Trades Galileo Museum - Piazza dei Giudici, 1 20/06/2013 - 17/11/2013 Passage to India: sounds, colours and atmospheres of the East Museo di Storia Naturale, Antropologia e Etnologia - Via del Proconsolo, 12 04/07/2013 - 10/01/2014 22

From the Fleur de Lis to the David More at: < >


orks of art originally commissioned to decorate the public buildings of Florence which housed the powers running the city: the halls of the various Arti, or guilds, Palazzo Vecchio (once Palazzo dei Priori) and the city gates and walls.This exhibition offers visitors a new key to understand the works of art themselves: the dividing line between sacred and secular often so hard to detect. Until December 8th


Accademia gallery Via Ricasoli, 60 055.294883

Mattia Corvino the King of Hungary More at: < >


he exhibition sets out to reconstruct the trends in the kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s taste, setting them against the backdrop of the Florentine context of his time, while also endeavouring, by drawing a number of parallels, to identify the possible influence on those choices exercised by Lorenzo the Magnificent and his entourage of thinkers and artists. Until January 6th


Museo di San Marco Piazza San Marco, 1 - 055.47552

Boccaccio author and copyist Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana Piazza San Lorenzo , 9 11/10/2013 - 10/01/2014 Luca De Silva - works & performances 1968 - 2013 Palazzo Medici Riccardi Via Cavour, 3 15/10/2013 - 06/01/2014 Early one morning Deimantas NarkeviCius Museo Marino Marini Piazza S. Pancrazio 23/09/2013 - 23/11/2013 The Hungarian portraits of the Uffizi Galleria degli Uffizi, San Pier Scheraggio - Loggiato degli Uffizi 11/10/2013 - 30/11/2013 23

The New Florence Biennale 2013 ‘Ethics DNA of Art’ Fortezza da Basso - viale Strozzi 30/11/2013 - 08/12/2013 A new homeland of the spirit. Florence and the Venetian artists of the early twentieth century Department of Prints and Drawings of the Uffizi - Loggiato degliUffizi 13/12/2013 - 09/02/2014 The five-hundredth anniversary of Machiavelli’s ‘Il Principe’ Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale Piazza dei Cavalleggeri, 1/a 10/12/2013

Pietro Annigoni Presence of an artist More at: < >


This exhibition highlight the main issues addressed by the Master Pietro Annigoni during his long personal and professional militancy: the portraits and selfportraits, landscapes, religious themes. Compared to other exhibitions, for the first time this is a project (organized into four sections) based mainly on never seen or unpublished art materials out of the Annigoni Fund of the Ente Cassa or from other public or private collections. Until January 6th

CASSA DI RISPARMIO DI FIRENZE Via Bufalini, 6 - 055.2612012 24

Sara Gitto m’illustro di immenso More at: < >


n exhibition dedicated to the world of illustration for children with published and unpublished works by the young Tuscan artist Sara Gitto. Ranging from water to collage, the works exposed trace the path of the artist in search of the sign and the most appropriate technique, maintaining as the objective of her research the beauty of the images as a necessary education for children. Until January 19th

palazzo strozzi Piazza Strozzi,1 - 055.2645155

Cultural Initiatives Guided visit dedicated to the Museum Davanzati Museo di Palazzo Davanzati Via Porta Rossa, 13 On 16/11/2013 & on 14/12/2013 Week of Cultural Heritage. Extraordinary openings and free admission to the state museums 01/11/2013 - 30/11/2013 Guided visits to the astronomical Torrino of La Specola Museo di Storia Naturale, Sez. Zoologia “La Specola” - Via Romana , 17 On 09/11/2013 & on 14/12/2013



a manga made in florence Il Bisonte’s Wanny di Filippo in a Manga dedicated to the Stibbert Museum


or some years now, Palazzo Strozzi has been offering new communication strategies to describe Art, which range from comics to online games, as well as interactive routes. The new project entails a “manga” comic: a collaboration with the Museum Stibbert (created in the 19th century by Frederick Stibbert) , which boasts one of the finest and most fascinating collections of Japanese Art (main source of inspiration for the story) and Wanny Di Filippo, founder of historic Il Bisonte, the Florentine brand of leather accessories that has represented the Made in Italy throughout the world for over 40 years and particurarly attached to Japan. Hence a comic book illustrated by the Japanese artist Keiko Ichiguchi. The manga’s protagonists are Wanny Di Filippo and Iris, a young Japanese girl who embodies the spirit of a tsuba (the hilt from an ancient sword that has lost its blade). The story is set in the private collection of IL BISONTE in Palazzo Corsini in Florence, where Wanny Di Filippo in one of the many nights spent in the office to work, falls asleep at his desk. He is suddenly awakened by Iris that leads him by magic to the Stibbert Museum, asking to help her search for her missing sword. The dreamlike dimensions of this night search lead to the two protagonists meeting people from different periods and cultures: warlords, knights and samurai. The next morning Wanny wakes up in the halls of his museum and to his surprise he discovers that a katana sword has been found. 26


events Tuscany Day Celebration The Feast of the Tuscany marks the anniversary of the important Penal Reform Bill or Leopoldine Code, created by Pietro Leopoldo of Lorraine, Grand Duke of Tuscany. Inspired by the theories of Cesare Beccaria it abolished the death penalty for the very first time (November 30th 1786). Various places, Florence and province 30/11/2013 commemoration of ugo di toscana Ugo di Toscana is considered the founder of Tuscany as we know it today. A mass is held in his memory every year since his death in 1001. Badia Fiorentina - Via Dante Alighieri, 12 21/12/2013 Feast of the Homages Historical parade of the Florentine Republic Historical Centre 23/12/2013 28

30th Florence Marathon more at: < >


tep by step all along its 42 kilometers and 195 meters you are surrounded by centuries of art, history and culture. Florence Marathon is now among the 20 most important marathons in the world. The route takes you by the Cathedral Square, Piazza della Signoria, Ponte Vecchio, before entering the majestic Piazza Santa Croce. November 24th.


Start from Lungarno Pecori Giraldi

50 days of cinema more at: < >


ifty Days of International Cinema in Florence was founded in 2007 to give a “one billboard” and a unified headquarters, to all the major film festivals with an international vocation to be held in Florence. The result is a full autumn season of quality movies from all over the world. Festivals nowadays have an important role on the diffusion of quality cinema, offering visibility and a chance for an alternative distribution for all those movies that, although having a high artistic value, find no place in the traditional supply chain. A rich program of movies, short films, documentaries, docu-fiction, video art, previews, meetings with authors, and debates. Until December 15th

odeon cinema

Piazza Strozzi

Florence Queer Festival 11th International LGBT Film Festival 06/11/2013 - 12/11/2013 6th edition The Screen of the Arts Film Festival 13/11/2013 - 17/11/2013 River to River 2013 Florence Indian Film Festival 22/11/2013 - 28/11/2013 54th edition Festival dei Popoli International Documentary Film Festival 30/11/2013 - 07/12/2013 a window on the north Finno-Ugric Film Festival 08/12/2013 - 11/12/2013 balkan florence express 12/12/2013 - 13/12/2013 N.I.C.E. prize (New Italian Cinema Events) city of florence 13/12/2013 images & sounds of the world Ethnomusical FILM FESTIVAL 14/12/2013 - 15/12/2013 29

ModaPrima Collections of clothing and accessories Stazione Leopolda - Viale F.lli Rosselli, 5 22/11/2013 - 24/11/2013 BTO Buy Tourism Online 2013 Trade Fair fo the tourism industry operators Fortezza da Basso - viale Strozzi 03/12/2013 - 04/12/2013

shopping fairs & events BTC 2013 International meetings conventions and incentives fair Fortezza da Basso - viale Strozzi 12/11/2013 - 13/11/2013 Handicraft Market Market of Tuscan handicrafts. Piazza SS. Annunziata 16/11/2013 - 17/11/2013 Ciompi Monthly Antique Fair Antiques, books, paintings and more at the Florence flea Market Piazza dei Ciompi 16/11/2013 - 17/11/2013 Florence Handmade in Italy Fortezza da Basso - Viale Strozzi 21/11/2013 - 24/11/2013 30

Fortezza Antiquaria Antique market. Giardini della Fortezza da Basso 16/11/2013 - 17/11/2013 Christmas Market by Croce Rossa Italiana Charity Christmas Trade Fair organized by the Florence womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s committee of the Italian Red Cross. Obihall - Aldo Moro, 3 29/11/2013 - 01/12/2013 Nataleperfile 2013 Charity Christmas market against unnecessary pain. On sale a high quality varied choice of clothing for women, men and children, designer items and household linens, modern fancy goods, jewelry, perfumes, cosmetic products, food and wine, books, toys, and many others.The proceeds will finance the Lenitherapy assistance. Palazzo Corsini, Lungarno Corsini, 8 06/12/2013 - 08/12/2013

Weihnachts Markt more at: < >


rom November 30 to December 18 Piazza Piazza Santa Croce will shine thanks to an event that has become traditional. The “Heidelberg Christmas Market” will offer crafts, food and wine coming from more than fifteen countries, the great German traditional red carousel will stand out in the middle of Piazza Santa Croce. An opportunity to start thinking about Christmas gifts or find some particular and distinctive decorations for the Christmas tree or nativities. November 30h - December 18th

Piazza Santa Croce

florence tattoo convention 2013 more at: < >


he ancient Fortezza da Basso of Florence will host the 6th edition of Florence Tattoo Convention with more than 300 world-renowned tattoo artists, shows and eclectic musicians who will enchant an audience of curious and urban fashions lovers in a three-day event out of the ordinary. Every night DJ sets, concerts and typical Tuscan cuisine will be the backdrop to the event that every year opens its doors to more than 10,000 spectators. November 8th -10th

Fortezza da basso

Viale Strozzi


Pop Music local natives Local Natives are coming to Italy. One of the most exciting reality of American independent music will play their new album. 12/11/2013 - Viper Theatre - Via Pistoiese corner Via Lombardia MAGGIOREGGAE presents: DANNY RED Maggioreggae presents for the first time in Italy, DENNY RED, straight from London, one of the leaders of the ‘Roots Foundation’ a monument in the history of Reggae in England, on stage with him, DUBASS FAMILY BAND, an ensemble of musicians from all over the world. 23/11/2013 - Viper Theatre - Via Pistoiese corner Via Lombardia THE ANSWER The strong bluesy hard rock of the Irish band THE ANSWER is roaring back in Florence: 7 years away from their beautiful debut.” 27/11/2013 - Viper Theatre - Via Pistoiese corner Via Lombardia 32

The Russian Ice Stars present Beauty and the Beast on Ice The World renowned Russian Ice Stars bring their acclaimed production of Beauty and the Beast on Ice toFlorence as part of a national Italian tour. A real ice rink will be built on the stage of the Mandela Forum enabling some of the world’s finest skaters to glide and swirl their way through this enchanting fairytale. 22-23/11/2013 - Mandela Forum, Viale Paoli 3 The Russian Ice Stars present peter pan on Ice A new adaptation of this famous fantasy adventure by J.M. Barrie. Wendy, Michael and John are visited in the nursery by Peter Pan himself, who teaches them to fly with the help of Tinker Bell, and takes them on a magical journey to Never Land. A marvel perfectly recreated in this spectacular adaptation on ice. 24/11/2013 - Mandela Forum, Viale Paoli 3

Brit Floyd Brit Floyd - the colossal Pink Floyd tribute band - bring to Florence their new PULSE 2013 tour, which will run masterpieces such as The Dark Side of the Moon, Wish you were here, The Wall, The Division Bell and Animals 24/11/2013 - Mandela Forum, Viale Paoli 3

LUDOVICO EINAUDI After the sold-out concert during last February Ludovico Einaudi is back in Florence at the Teatro Verdi. His tour has touched the major European cities. This time in Florence will host the Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. 05/12/2013 - Obihall, Via Fabrizio De André

IMANY Authentic revelation of this summer in music, the Franco-African vocalist Imany will be back to Italy, this time at the head of a real big band. 05/12/2013 - Obihall, Via Fabrizio De André

circo nero This year Circo Nero wille be back to Florence at the Obihall, the circus of the night, with all its entourage, its music and passions. 16/12/2013 - Obihall, Via Fabrizio De André

classical Music Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino: Mozart To celebrate the 80th anniversary of its founding, Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino directed by Lorenzo Fratini will perform Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Requiem for soloists, choir and piano (Carl Czerny version). 07/11/2013 - Auditorium Santo Stefano al Ponte, Piazza di Santo Stefano 1 La serva padrona An Opera by Giovanni Battista Pergolesi; conductor Massimiliano Caldi; director Curro Carreres. A production of the Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino in collaboration with Maggio Fiorentino Formazione. Uberto is an old bachelor constantly being bullied by the young maid Serpina who is very reluctant to obey his orders. Fearing that Serpina has become so arrogant that she thinks she is the mistress of the household, Uberto instructs the servant Vespone to find him a wife to rid himself of the girl. 8-9-10/11/2013 - Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria, 15 34

Cinema Saxophone Circus Selmer Saxharmonic directed by Milan Turkovich will perform Zimmer: He’s a Pirate; Morricone: once upon a time in the West; Sviridov: Snowstorm Suite; Barry: Dance with the wolves; Sostakovic: Waltz n.2; Purcell: Suite (da The Fairy Queen, arr. M. Rot, sel. N. Harnoncourt); Eisler: Dans les Rues; Herrmann: Prelude, In the City, The Murder, Finale (from Psyco, arr. C. Enzel); Rota: La Passerella d’addio (from Otto 1/2); Tema d’amore (from the Godfather); La Dolce vita (arr. C. Enzel); Williams: Star Wars (arr. C. Enzel). 17/11/213 - Teatro della Pergola (Saloncino), Via della Pergola, 18

L’elisir d’amore An Opera by Gaetano Donizetti; Conductor Giuseppe La Malfa; Director Rosetta Cucchi with Orchestra e Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. A new production by the Teatro Comunale di Bologna and the Wexford Festival. Nemorino, a poor peasant, is in love with Adina, a beautiful landowner, who torments him with her indifference. When Nemorino hears Adina reading to her workers the story of Tristan and Isolde he is convinced that a magic potion will help him to gain Adina’s love. 15-16-19-20-21/11/2013 - Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia, 1 Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino: Rossini To celebrate the 80th anniversary of its founding, Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino directed by Lorenzo Fratini will perform Gioachino Rossini, Stabat Mater for soloists, choir and piano (Carl Czerny version). 23/11/2013 - Auditorium Santo Stefano al Ponte, Piazza di Santo Stefano 1

Kavakos & Wang Leonidas Kavakos Violin and Yuja Wang Piano will perform J. BRAHMS: Sonata n.1 in G major op.78; Sonata n.2 in A major op.100; Sonata n.3 in D minor op.108. 30/11/2013 - Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola, 18 Gerhaher & Huber For the review The Art of Singing Baritone Christian Gerhaher accompanied by pianist Gerold Huber will perform Frederick Schubert: Die schöne Müllerin D 795 op.25. 1/12/2013 - Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola, 18 35

King’s Singers For the review The Art of Singing King’s Singer Choir will perform Di Lasso: Resonet in laudi bus; Praetorius: Est ist ein Ros’entsprungen, Wie schön leuchtet der Morgenstern; Sweelinck: Hodie Christus natus est; Howells: Here is the little door, A spotless rose, Sing lullaby; Gabbitas: Mary’s Lullaby; Rutters: There is a flower; Poulenc: Un soir de neige. 16/12/2013 - Teatro della Pergola (Saloncino), Via della Pergola, 18 Christmas Concert To celebrate the 80th anniversary of its founding Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino directed by Lorenzo Fratini will perform Music by Johann Sebastian Bach, Domenico Scarlatti, and traditional Christmas carrols 19/12/2013 - Auditorium Santo Stefano al Ponte, Piazza di Santo Stefano 1 36

The Nutcracker MaggioDanza and Orchestra del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino will perform a classic ballet on the music of Pëtr Il’iç Tchajkovskij. Coreography and dramaturgy by Giorgio Mancini. A production Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino 20-21-22-27-28-29-31/12/2013 Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia, 1 ORT christmas Concert Orchestra della Toscana directed by Daniel Rustioni will perform pieces from Glinka, Tchajkovski, Ponchielli and Prokof’ev. 24/12/2013 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99

Wellness contrasto aveda (1)


A stone’s throw from Piazza della Signoria, you will find Contrasto AVEDA lifestyle salon & spa, an innovative proposal where the “salon” becomes an oasis for a relaxing break in full harmony of body and spirit. A cup of Aveda tea to welcome you, a soothing massage to head, neck and shoulders and eventually a touch of make-up far a unique experience. A team of highly skilled stylists at work to conceive a definitive look able to fully reflect you. But there is more to Contrasto AVEDA Lifestyle Salon & Spa than meets the eye. Monthly after working hours, the wonderful Salon becomes an ideal location for an aperitif or a themed event. Nearby, two other Contrasto AVEDA concept salon, receive without an appointment, leaving freedom of choice to the customer. Lifestyle salon & spa on appointment only Via de’ Neri 53-55/r - 055.2398553



concept salon Via de’ Neri 49/r - 055 282841 Via dei Benci 5/r - 055 219227


palestra ricciardi (2) Founded 50 years ago, Palestra Ricciardi is the biggest gym in the Florence downtown, known as the coolest gym in town combining experienced staff with the most modern equipment. You can improve your physique in a pleasant and dynamic environment spread over a surface of 1600 sqm surrounding a lovely internal garden. The space devoted to your training is composed of several areas which include: the cardio fitness area, the free weights area, rooms for isotonic equipment, two rooms for classes and the spinning room. After a hard training session you can choose to relax in a sauna or with a massage session. The gym offers 81 hours of classes weekly: Total Body Workout, Step, Spinning, Easy Dance, Corpo Libero, Yoga, Hip Hop, Power Pump, Body Sculpt, Pilates, Fit Box, Stretching, Gag, Soft Gymnastic, Capoeira. Personalised fitness programmes and fully qualified instructors. Special membership fees for students. Borgo Pinti, 75 - 055.2478444

re you a step machine addict or dreaming of perfect muscles? Or have you just arrived in town and need to find a gym (possibly within walking distance) in the city centre? There are an infinite number of gymnasiums. It is worth hunting up one with the facilities you require nearest to your digs. Many also do courses in yoga or the martial arts pilates to FIt box or Capoeria (a brazilian way between a martial art and a dancing) or have a gymnasium attached. And obviously most of these gyms offer special relaxing areas with sauna, massages or spa. Florence also boasts many dance and ballet schools, though of course you have to select the type of dance course you prefer. Start looking for your ideal gym from our tips. 39


Silent Night A Christmas in Florence


mas in Florence is unique for anyone who decides to visit the city at this time of year. Certainly the lights are nothing like as splendid as those in London or New York, but medieval and Renaissance Florence doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really need a huge amount of glitter, when every street, every corner and every house reflects ancient festivities, some long forgotten, some utterly transformed, while others that have survived intact. Even so, hanging strings of glittering lights, snow flakes and garlands illuminate the boulevards until everything is adazzle with light, from the trees and the facades of the great houses to the windows and the squares. The silent candle-lit churches, the Nativity scenes, the deeply religious services and concerts contrast with the bustling streets outside, where every shop window offers tempting and captivating wares that are impossible to resist. 40

Presepe Vs Xmas Tree

You may find it hard to believe but Christmas trees are a relatively recent introduction to Italy, a tradition that gradually crept in during the 20th century from Northern Europe. Nativity scenes are instead a classical Italian institution and range from very simple familymade arrangements to more complex ones, usually to be found in churches. The tradition of setting up a Nativity Scene (presepe or presepio in Italian) is thought to originate from Christmas 1223 when St. Francis of Assisi set up a representation of the Nativity in the town of Greccio. Drop in to admire the beautiful Nativity scenes set up every

year in the Churches of Santa Maria deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Ricci and of Santa Margherita deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Cerchi or of Dante (both in Via Santa Margherita).

Befana Vs Santa Claus

Until recent times Italian children did not receive their presents from Santa Claus at Christmas, but from a benevolent witch called Befana on January 6th. Good children got sweets and other goodies, while naughty children received lumps of coal. Legend has it that the Befana gave hospitality to the Wise Men when they called on their way to Bethlehem, but would not go with them because she was too busy. However on afterthoughts she repented her decision and now spends her time leaving presents at each house she visits, just in case one of the children living there is baby Jesus... 41


thanksgiving Strange to Europeans


strange custom/holiday in the eyes of Europeans is Thanksgiving of the United States. This holiday first came into being when the Pilgrims, originally known as the Plymouth settlers, first got to the new land in hopes to make a new life. Little did they realize the drastic changes they would have to face. In reality, the Whites had managed to survive on their own in this different land thanks to the help of a Native American named Squanto. He taught them fishing, how to plant corn and other vegetables, how to catch eel, and also served as their native interpreter. The Pilgrims held a feast, an autumn celebration with tons of food and praising the Lord, directly after their harvest, their first successful harvest. It turned out to be not one day, not two days, but a full three day event. All this started in the year of 1621 in the land now known as Massachusetts. The meaning of Thanksgiving has obviously changed throughout these years past. These years of industry havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t required the average American to harvest their dinner, harvest being their only way of making money. Nowadays we remember the troubles that our ancestors went through but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t truly comprehend the said hardships. With our thriving electronic society our worries have been changed from ones of freezing during the winter to being the best we can possibly be.




tuscan olive oil Freshly milled


ovember marks the harvesting of the olives. It is usually hard and backbreaking work and not helped by the first winter rains and cold north winds. You can volunteer to help if you like...but it is really only enjoyable on sunny days! What is fun is going to watch the oil being milled. This is not as hard as it sounds as the frantoi or oil mills are open to all during the harvest as people gradually bring in varying quantities of olives for milling. Snacks and even meals are often of offer to help clients pass the time while waiting for their oil to be ready, so there


is no reason why you should not partake of the repast too! Almost every farm in Tuscany boasts an olive grove (many people have a tree or two in their garden for home consumption); some farms even have their own olive press, a guarantee of good oil, as the olives should be milled immediately after picking. Others have to take their olives to the nearest available press for immediate washing and milling. The traditional method for milling olives is by placing them on a large, circular block of granite, where they are crushed by two turning granite wheels. 20 minutes later the olives have been transformed into an oily pulp. This is spread out on round


mats of woven hemp, each with a hole in the middle, which are stacked on a spindle and placed under an increasing pressure to extract the oil and juice that collects at the base. The first oil is considered superior to that extracted at the end of the process. Waste water and sediments are separated from the oil, either by successive decanting or centrifuge. Olive oil does not improve with age, it simply mellows, and the pungent aroma and the vivid taste of the freshly pressed greenish oil gradually turns golden yellow to acquire a velvety texture. A good extra virgin oil should stay fairly fresh for a year or more if properly stored in cool place. The deliciously tasting Tuscan oil is particularly low in acid content and therefore better for you, though the flavour can vary according to where the olives are grown, climate and so on. It can be peppery, fruity, full-bodied, or mild with underlying scents of grass, artichokes or wild herbs, certainly it should be flavoursome and not just oily. Watch out for wine and oil fairs, especially in the country (Reggello, Calenzano, Barberino Val dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Elsa), in early November. You can taste some excellent and often very reasonably priced oils (taste several to decide which you like best). Dribble it over a slice of Tuscan bread or, better still, toast rubbed with garlic, add some salt and go with the flavour... 46


Christmas Delights Panettone, Pandoro, Panforte & Ricciarelli


very Italian region cherishes its own traditions in Christmas sweets, although advertising and the large-scale production in the past few decades has levelled out the national standard to but a few: panettone, pandoro, panforte and ricciarelli. None of these recipes originated in fact as Christmas specialities but, over the years (and sometimes centuries), they have come to be associated more or less closely with the Festive Season.


The Italian â&#x20AC;&#x153;Panettoneâ&#x20AC;? is the typical Christmas cake that all Italians buy (they rarely make it at home) to celebrate the festivities. Although it originated in Milan, Christmas wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be Christmas for any Italian without his panettone (we could translate it as large loaf and it does in fact rather resemble a loaf of bread). It comes in all shapes and sizes and today in hundreds of variations. The traditional type, made with flour, eggs, butter, vanilla and sugar, is stuffed with raisins and candied fruit. The Florentine version also contains pine nuts and aniseed. It should be well leavened and bulge out over the edge of its paper container.



The plainer â&#x20AC;&#x153;Pandoroâ&#x20AC;? (Golden bread), from Verona, was created to satisfy those who do not like raisins and candied fruit and should be sprinkled with powered icing sugar so that it appears to be dusted with snow. Now both variations can be found stuffed with creams and flavourings, or covered in chocolate or icing sugar, with new versions appearing in the Christmas windows every year. The Panettone or Pandoro is also a very popular Christmas present: It can make a handy gift for friends and relations, is most appreciated by business acquaintances or staff or just as a thank you present for some past favour. Christmas gift baskets always contain a panettone of some sort.



Panforte is a heavenly mixture of honey, spices, candied fruit and nuts and has the added advantage of keeping for a long time. Its origins go back to the Middle Ages, when, on his return from Arab countries, Niccolò Salimbeni brought some “honey and pepper” loaves back to Siena. The formula has developed as new ingredients became available over the centuries. Today the most popular variety is the panforte Margherita, light in colour and more delicate in taste than most other types, and dusted with confectioner’s sugar. It was created by Enrico Righi in 1879 in homage to Queen Margherita, who visited Siena with her husband King Umberto I for the Palio.


Ricciarelli are instead lozenge-shaped biscuits made with whole, freshly crushed almonds blended with sugar and honey. They can be white - with a light coating of confectioner’s sugar - or come frosted with chocolate layer, a more modern version of the original recipe. Renaissance documents describe Ricciarelli as being served at the most sumptuous banquets in Italy and France. Needless to say, if you are flying home for Christmas, any one of these Christmas specialities will certainly make a most welcome present for family and friends! 50



Arnold Coffee The American Coffee Experience



arnold coffee Via degli Avelli, 8 055.9060399 52

he coffeehouse chain Arnold Coffee was born in 2009, and it is the first real American coffee shop opened in Italy, inspired by Starbucks. The brand mission, The American Coffee Experience means the commitment to offering to everyone the opportunity to taste top quality products in a welcoming and comfortable environment where everyone can relax, chat and surf the Internet, away from the bustle of daily life. Everything is improved by a constant and careful attention to detail and to the guests. Here you will find a wide range of pastries and snacks suitable for every moment of your day, from breakfast, to lunch, or any light meal. You will not resist the temptation of Arnold Coffeeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cup cakes, muffins, donuts and apple pies, a unique taste from the best American tradition; and do not forget the organic beverages or the 100% pure fruit smoothies, or the great choice of tasty, delicious and special drinks with or without coffee, all in large cups starting from 12oz. Arnold opened its first store in Milan in the University area, with the specific aim of offering to young students the possibility to study with their laptops in front of a hot mug. The company has now reached cities such as Genoa, Verona and Florence, Via degli Avelli, while expanding its target from University students to a wider group that daily rewards the coffee shops with the same - if not greater - appreciation and presence. And the firm is still developing...

Flavours of Tuscany osteria santo spiritO





In the heart of the Oltrarno District where you still can breath the ancient Florence of the craftsmen and the thousands workshop, the Florence of the common people and the markets, you can find Osteria Santo Spirito right at the corner of the most famous square of Santo Spirito, a meeting place for all international gourmands, for florentines in love with their city and foreigners discovering the taste of Tuscany possibly in a cosy atmospehere. Take a lunch or dine at the tables overlooking the enchanting Piazza Santo Spirito (the Osteria has a wonderful dehors one of the most fascinating in the city) or in the colourful rooms inside the Osteria. The menu includes typical and traditional Tuscan platters accompanied by some interesting new variations, you can start with land starters such as wildboar sausages and dry tomatoes and go on with rigatoni santo spirito with dry ricotta cheese and maybe close with a mixed meat grill or you can choose the fish menus with sea products always fresh and tasty. The wines and desserts are excellent. Piazza Santo Spirito 16r - 055.2382383 Open daily 12-23.30


Le Antiche Carrozze (2) Try tasting some of the traditional recipes from the Italian cuisine in this ancient trattoria just off Via Tornabuoni and overlooking Piazza Santa Trinita. The warm and welcoming atmosphere in the recently restructured dining rooms still recall the mid 19th century when this venue was a regular stopping place for carriage drivers. It is the ideal place to discover the real â&#x20AC;&#x153;Florentine Steakâ&#x20AC;? of genuine Chianina meat and perfectly prepared and cooked, as well as taste many other natural and healthy products, like the olive oil, dressed meats, vegetables and cheeses. The menu is based on the simple recipes typical of the local cuisine, but the Chef makes use of his wide experience to fully enhance the freshness and quality of the ingredients. All these traditional flavours in Tuscan cooking are accompanied by excellent pizzas prepared with care and experience. The pizzas boast a truly authentic flavour as they are cooked in a woodburning oven. The best wine to drink with your meal, either selecting it from the important Tuscan labels or from the excellent selection of the best Italian wines. Piazza Santa Trinita corner with Borgo Santi Apostoli 055.2658156 - Open daily 11.00-23.00.

he legendary and extremely simple food of Tuscany is the result of centuries of poverty and therefore has been based on salads, legumes, cereals and meat since the Middle Ages. Olive oil is almost always used rather than lard, and vegetable soups rather than pasta. All the food is bread related and of course the main drink is wine that lends colour to every glass. Although the modern trends in food have practically swept away many regional culinary traditions, Tuscany can still boast of an incredible historic continuity in traditional cooking and therefore has managed to preserve dishes that the present research into genuine foods is once more bringing back into the limelight, to the joy of all tastebuds, including those of its foreign visitors. We should remember that most typical Tuscan dishes are linked to particular areas or the various seasons of the year. 55

gelaterie gelateria della passera Gelateria della Passera is located in the heart of Florence just a few steps from Ponte Vecchio and Piazza Pitti. A small shop that produces high quality ice creams and sorbets with or without milk. The ingredients are chosen with care and with a special attention to local products, such as milk, eggs, fruit and Tuscan honey. You can choose between 20 flavors, in addition to the classic ones we suggest Fior di latte and mint, Monnalisa, Messer Brunelleschi and many others. Secret recipes and experimentations to create the magical sorbets, made â&#x20AC;&#x2039;â&#x20AC;&#x2039;with infusions and decoctions of seasonal fruits, in this period of the year you can taste pomegranate, persimmon, chestnut, pear and tangerine or the classic winter specials with orange, mint or whiskey flavored chocolate. The carapine boxes (with the cap) ensure optimal preservation of the product, infact ice cream is temperature sensitive and photosensitive too. Tantalize your palate tasting the flavors of the season, fruit sorbets and infusions, an experience that you will bring in your heart as a lasting memory of Florence. Piazza della Passera - Via Toscanella,15r - 055.291882 Open 12pm-12am 56


Pizza Pizza Pizza! Mr. Pizza


MR. PIZZA in Florence is a universe of delicious appetizers and offers its customers a wide choice of pizza cut, takeaway or home delivery. It ‘s open from morning until late at night to enjoy at any time of day the taste of true Neapolitan tradition. In the true Neapolitan pizza the cheese is soft and pan is thin but high-sided. The peculiarities of Neapolitan pizza is due largely to its pulp to be produced with a bread dough - that is completely devoid of fat - soft and elastic, stretched by hand in the form of a disc without touching the edges that will form in a typical kitchen “ledge “of 1 or 2 cm while the dough at the center will be high about 3 mm. A fast passage in a very hot oven must leave the pizza moist and soft, not overcooked. But at MR PIZZA, not only you can eat pizza awaits but also a large variety of salads, turnovers, croquettes, pretzels, washed down with a good selection of craft beers and more. EVERYTHING TO GO & DELIVERY Via Pietrapiana 82r - 055.3860311 Piazza del Duomo 5r - 055.213682 (1)


Nightlife pitta m’ingolli



The colorful and lively scene of Piazza Santo Spirito has just enriched with a new venue: a rustic style, charming bistrot, reminiscent of some French Bar au Vin. Freshly inaugurated, PITTA M’INGOLLI, which is Lucchese dialect for “may devil swallow you”, is just a few steps from the famous Osteria Santo Spirito, also owned by Chiara Tassi. Open from morning to late night, starts with the breakfast, but stands out for a wide variety of sandwiches with cold cuts (ham, mortadella, finocchiona) cheese (goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, gorgonzola, honey and nuts) to fish specialities (butter and anchovies, salmon and arugula) combined with various sauces (tuna, tartare, mushroom sauce, walnuts, truffle) focaccia, baguette, various drinks, milkshakes, centrifugal fresh fruit, coffee for only 80 cents. and appetizers for 5 euro. Interior is coated in warm wood, with high stools and newspapers. Piazza S. Spirito, 17r 055.264256 Open daily 6.30am - 2.00am






With an entrance sunken in slightly from the street-front windows and doors, Salamanca draws you in almost seductively with its muted and rustic reds, cursive lettering above the door and calm dim lighting. Upon entering, a beautiful and engaging staff allows you to be guided wherever you choose to enjoy this intriguing bar and restaurant. You may enjoy a meal in one of the three dining rooms, including a more intimately themed one in the back. Or for a more casual evening, quaint two seater tables off to the right, a variety of tables in the front room to the left, a tapas bar in the back, or a traditional bar in the very front. With a full menu from tapas to meat meals, wonderful fish dishes to salads, amazingly decadent desserts and delicious drinks, the food alone entices any restaurant goer. With its atmosphere, its upbeat American and Spanish mix of music, wonderful staff, entrancing ambience, leaving Salamanca seems like not an option. Via Ghibellina, 80r 055.2345452 - Open Daily 5.30pm - 2.30am

peritif comes from the Latin word â&#x20AC;&#x153;aperireâ&#x20AC;?, to open. You should remember that traditionally, Italians do not drink in order to get drunk: rather, alcohol fulfils a complementary role in the dining process. An aperitif is meant to cleanse your palate and whet your appetite for the upcoming meal. The typically French and Italian rite of aperitif offers a taste of la bonne vie for those who enjoy nothing more than raising a glass in the company of friends. Many bars in Florence now offer a sophisticated choice of finger foods and snacks to accompany your aperitif. Arrive between 7pm and 9pm, buy yourself a drink and you can expect to stock up for free on a good spread of complimentary nibbles. Even the music mix is also specially chosen with smooth, soothing sounds providing a suitable backdrop for a relaxed chat among friends. 61




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LoveFlorence: Novembre / Dicembre 2013  
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