Academy Magazine Manifesto Academy magazine is a bi-annual, independent publication which focuses on fashion and creativity. The magazine is compiled completely from the work of students. The magazine prides itself on always: 1. Offering a platform for talented students to display their work and build their portfolios. 2. Producing a beautifully designed product, which opposes the norms of consumer magazine templates and can be kept, displayed and treasured. 3. Producing original content which cannot be found at the touch of a button online. 4. Introducing the reader to something new. 5. Exploring the undercurrents of fashion and not being tied to trends. 6. Bridging the gap between academia and industry. 7. Encouraging creativity in every sense of the word. 8. Encouraging criticism and expression of honest opinion. 9. Only advertising brands that are in-keeping with our beliefs. 10. Celebrating the underdog.
Welcome to Issue 1 of Academy Magazine, a collaborative project by students from around the UK. From fashion and design to photography and illustration to music events, this magazine brings you the most exciting up and coming talent in the creative industries. Our contributors range from those starting out in their fashion studies, such as first year students who have used lighting and make up to create their first fashion editorials, to bloggers making a name for themselves online with their extreme style, those following their passions and starting new business ventures, those preparing themselves for entering industry and even those just pursuing their creative talents as a hobby alongside their degrees. The aim of this magazine was to introduce new talent and create a student body of work at a professional standard; thanks to all these amazing contributors this has undoubtedly been acheived. To see more work from the contributors scan their picture on our Contents page with the Layar Augmented Reality app, which is free to download on your android phone. We hope you enjoy reading about their inspirations and aspirations and discovering the future trendsetters of our generation. Megan Blackburn Editor-in-cheif, Academy
Johanan Lee Frazer
Cassie Walker American Apparel
Cassie is a final year Fashion Promotion student from UCA Rochester. What does the course entail? I have specialised in the visual side as I want to be a stylist but we also do marketing You’ve collaborated with others on the shoot, how do you go about finding the best people to collaborate with? Looking at online magazines that I like and contacting the creatives involved. There’s a very relaxed feel to this shoot, do you prefer this style or do you like to do high-fashion shoots as well? I think I prefer this style in my own work, as it is a work in progress and I have tended to lean towards this kind of aesthetic. In others work though I still appreciate and love more slick, glossy editorials.
Do you feel it is influenced by your own style at all? Yes definitely. Although I often put looks together I wouldn’t wear and but work better in an editorial, but I think sometimes it comes out naturally that a look is something I would put together for myself. This shoot is all American Apparel items, why that brand? It’s part of a university project that was about Covent Garden and promoting the brands in the area through editorials and fashion films put together by young creatives such as stylists, photographers and videographers. You’ve shot for a couple of different magazines, do these approach you or do you actively look for that kind of work? I collaborated with photographers and together we proposed shoot concepts to magazines.
Where do you find inspiration for your shoots?
What kinds of magazines are you personally into?
From so many things! Sometimes I get an idea from the location I want to shoot in, sometimes the clothing style or particular collection. Sometimes it’s a mood that I want to convey.
i-D, POP, Dazed, Tank, amongst many others! What are your hopes for the future? In terms of styling, I would
love to be able to work at a magazine in the fashion department and then go freelance as a stylist.
Photographer Hollie Fernando Stylist Cassie Walker Model Lera at Premier Hair Roger Cho Make Up Tabby Casto
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“...you know fashion, you always end up doing something you wouldn’t see yourself doing.”
Shannon McGrath is a first year Fashion Promotion student at UCA Rochester. What is your favourite part of the fashion promotion process and why? My favourite part to fashion promotion has got to be undertaking photo shoots, both the styling and photography side to it, I prefer doing both myself for my own shoots! What was your inspiration for this particular shoot? Lady Gaga was a big inspiration as well as Fendi spring 2012 RTW. Did you do the foil top, pieces, and silvery make up yourself or was that a collaboration with a make up artist and fashion design students? I did all of the foil buildup myself, it was very fiddly but wasn’t as technical
as you think so i didn’t collaborate with a makeup artist! The sunglasses add quite a playful element to the pictures, what was the reason that you used those? I wanted to promote something that would be emphasised by the vibrant tin foil, my concept behind the shoot was inspired by a poem called the voice by Margeret Atwood, which explains the overpowerment of ‘the voice’ over the body and then the deterioration of it once it gets too powerful which is represented by the build up of the foil. The lighting i used was to symbolise the paparazzi/ being under spotlight and therefore the sunglasses where to shield from this and were changed throughout to show the change in the voice/foil! All very complicated! What are your hopes for the future?
My future prospects are to become a stylist but I am still exploring with photography as that is something else I really enjoy doing but you know fashion, you always end up doing something you wouldn’t see yourself doing.
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Photography, Styling, Hair and Make Up Shannon McGrath Model Hollie Hobin
“This shoot was for a particular project where I had to pick a word from fashion vocabulary word bank given to us, and I chose ‘graphic’.”
Rihana Kalsi is a first year Fashion Promotion student at UCA Rochester.
proud of. What was the inspiration behind this shoot?
What does your university course entail?
This shoot was for a particular project where I had to pick a word from fashion vocabulary word bank given to us, and I chose ‘graphic’. I was inspired by the definition of the word and wanted to focus on the use of line. I also looked at photographer Solve Sundsbo who has created many photographs using shadow work.
The course I study is Fashion Promotion BA Hons at UCA Rochester, and it focuses on visual, written and promotional communication such as styling, photography, PR, and marketing. We focus on everything after the actual designing and making of a garment. What is your favourite part of that? My favourite part of the promotion process is definitely taking part in fashion shoots. I enjoy all areas from styling, photographing, creating the narratives/concepts and editing. It can be manic to get it all done but that’s why I enjoy it. It’s such a great feeling when a shoot comes together and you are left with images that you are
This shoot seems to focus more on beauty that fashion in terms of the clothing (or lack of) featured. Is beauty in the fashion industry something that interests you? I chose to do a beauty shoot as opposed to a shoot using clothing as I wanted to experiment with different types of editorial-beauty was something I had not done before. In addition, I felt the use of make-up fitted well into my graphic theme - an
experimentation with graphic liner. The shoot is quite minimalistic in that the only colours used are black and red yet you’ve used graphic prints as the lighting feature. Would you say you prefer the more minimalistic or over-the-top types of fashion? I would definitely say I prefer a minimalistic approach to fashion. Over-the-top fashion is also amazing, however I think minimalistic fashion appeals to myself more and is also what I want my work to be embody. What do you hope to do in the future? In the future, I would definitely want to work within the fashion world in photography or styling, for a fashion magazine or in Arcadia Head Office.
Photography Paul Astley and Rihana Kalsi Model Sophie Glover Styling, Hair and Make Up Rihana Kalsi
Helena Lester-Card Sassy World
Helena is a final year student at Northbrook College Sussex studying Fashion, Media and Promotion. She runs the blog Bell’s Fashion on which she’s garnered a following of girls inspired by her eclectic style. She has just started her own online vintage clothing shop, Sassy World.
a lot of the vintage stores are very granny and grungy so I suppose Sassy World stands out in that sense. Where would you like for Sassy World to go in the future?
Your style is pretty unique, how would you describe it?
I want to keep going with the vintage and eventually stock independent designers with a similar aesthetic and then maybe even further down the line I would like to work with a team to design Sassy World’s own line!
I would say it’s eclectic, colourful and quite random.
A lot of girls look to your blog for style tips, when and why did you start blogging?
Do you look to anyone for inspiration at all? Either for your own style or for fashion shoots…
I started blogging nearly 3 years ago as my first ever uni project and I enjoyed it so much that I decided to carry it on. My style has completely evolved since the beginning and it’s so funny looking back at how grungy I used to be.
“...there wasn’t enough unique, crazy and colourful clothing in the UK and I wanted to create a vibrant, girl power fuelled online presence.” There’s not really anyone in particular but I’m always inspired by editorials and films from different eras, especially the 80s and 90s but I also find a lot of inspo from Tumblr and Street Style.
Are there any other blogs you’d recommend?
Do you have any plans for after uni?
I started a vintage clothing business for my Final Major Project so I plan to carry that on as a career. You’ve set up Sassy World, a vintage clothing online store, how did that come about?
It came from my frustration that there wasn’t enough unique, crazy and colourful clothing in the UK and I wanted to create a vibrant, girl power fuelled online presence. I think that everything is too mass produced at the moment and I personally would much prefer more unique items that no one else will have. It seems to be an instant success! What do you think that’s mainly down to?
I guess there’s not many other UK vintage sites who particularly focus on bright and playful clothing. I find that
How Two Live, Waiste, Two Shoes one Pair and the Fabulous Stains. Finally, what are your top 3 fashion tips you’d give to readers?
- Don’t care what anyone else thinks - Wear whatever you want, as long as you like it - The brighter the better! :D
Photography & Styling Helena Lester-Card Hair, Make Up and Model Lillie-Mae Ruttle
Dominique Aspinall Communications Critique Personifying fragmented refinement, Daria Werbowy fronts Celine’s Fall13 collection campaign for the second consecutive season. Shot by the globally renowned fashion photographer Juergen Teller, complimenting the clean, minimalistic aesthetic of the brand amongst his achromatic style. With a sharp, decisive layout, the campaigns fluent format uses photography that inspired the idea behind the collection, directing everything to the customer in an informative criterion. Injecting purified pastels throughout the array of images, the Parisian brand collate a more raucous and warmer look, due to past criticism of the brand’s bleak ambience. ‘Minimal, stark and wearable clothes have provoked the minimal designs flooding the British high-street as a by-product,’ – Imogen Fox, The Guardian
Defying advertising regulations, controversial retailer American Apparel has yet to comply with corporate guidelines. With suggestive themes fluent with campaigns, the overtly sexualized images associated with brand are inordinately suggestive. The image steers the direction of both the text and the message as a brand to a more derogatory term. The Advertising Standards Agency (ASA) carried out an investigation following reports of sexual exploitation within the brand’s raw and voyeuristic promotional concepts. The clothing retailer described the images as ‘authentic, honest and memorable’. ‘We considered there was a voyeuristic quality to the images, which served to heighten the impression that the women were vulnerable and in sexually provocative poses. For the reasons given, we considered the ads were likely to cause serious offence to visitors to American Apparel’s website. We concluded that they breached the code.’ – ASA
Drawing on the classical gender sterotyping, inspired by French cinema, this stimulating and visually captivating brand, embracing provocation with the use of humorous captions. With the birth of a new metrosexual male within society, French Connections latest campaign aim to channel gender stereotypes. Addressing the new fashion conscious male through humour, acts as a stimulant that inherits the brand’s integrity and aesthetics. Using simple linguistic and semiotics, the campaign almost mocks, the idea of gender in an act to impersonate a historical cave man. ‘It’s playful and unexpected, but people respond to that kind of communication.’ -Lorna Hall, WGSN. The brands witty yet sophisticatedly clinical approach to the campaign, involves social media interaction, influencing the new tech savvy society in the form of social networking. Reaching out to their social commerce though the use of interactive Youtube and Facebook pages allowing the user to purchase products. “We need to be ready for Generation Z. These people were born with a BlackBerry in their hands – even email is old-fashioned to them. So we need to be in their spaces.” “We believe we have created an impactful and intelligent campaign which we hope will encourage talk- ability amongst our loyal customers and fashion opinion formers worldwide. The campaign creative enables us to speak to customers in a clever and effective way, whilst reaffirming our premium status on the high street”. Stephen Marks, Founder & Chairman of French Connection
Eccentric, vibrant and subversively feminine.Producing her second collaboration for British footwear brand Dr Marten, the androgyny icon Agyness Deyn front the Japanese inspired collection. Drawing inspiration from the Tokyo Harajuku sub cultural district, Deyn collates a notably British grunge incentive to the campaign. With a stand for ‘creative self-expression’ and ‘free-thinking’ society sees the introduction of a more style independent customer, as more consumers desire the challenge of social convention, proving an intellectual choice for the inspirational heritage brand.
Acknowledged for his unusual choice of campaign models, Marc Jacob’s controversial concepts collide with his minimalists, fragmented aesthetic. Fronting the SS2003, Winona Ryder, who prior to the campaign was convicted of stealing £3,470 worth of Marc Jacobs apparel, liberated the press coverage. Mimicking an adornment of the act of theft, the brand almost applauded the conviction, thriving with the criminal offence. “I asked Winona to do the campaign because I thought she looked so beautiful in all these pictures that we’ve seen recently, regardless of whether they were from the trial,” said Marc Jacobs, “It would be stupid for me to say I didn’t expect any reaction.” Jacobs collaborated with the iconic photographer Juergen Teller, his idiosyncratic visual style and use of story powered models has been influential in the formation of every Marc Jacob’s campaign since 1998, creating a stylistic format, assembling a trademark brand identity.
The influential European fashion house renowned for their minimalist, dissolved, grungy overtoned stylistic features reform the direction of branding with musical adornment. Since the introduction of creative director Hedi Slimane back in 2012, the brand’s collaboration with the music industry has flourished into a signature partnership. Selecting a series of emerging and established artist to feature in the campaigns, Saint Laurent has absorbed the talents of musical magnates such as BB King and Chuck Berry. Recently integrating punk sub-culture intertwined within their recent campaigns, Saint Laurent have embraced the likes of up and coming musical talents, in attempt to reach out to the less conventional audience, correlating with their social commerce. ‘Haute Couture meets the mosh pit’ - the idea that the artists style themselves featuring the latest Saint Laurent collection, their adaptation of the garments, allow the customer market to expand in terms of soul identity, making the brand substantially more accessible.
Clinically cohesive, the German label’s use of the abstract realm that is the technological biosphere. Focusing on colour and detail to form the collections, their environmental ethos, embraces the art of recycling with the use of locally sourced fragments. Fixating on a garments utility as much as its integration within a collection is the represented ideology throughout the store. Establishing themselves digitally has lead to development in their flagship retail space. “A physical store where people can come in and feel the quality of the products with their own hands is naturally essential to our brand.” Their purely precise web presence is translated to the purchasing experience. Located centrally in one of the most innovative, creative global locations, Munich’s cultural influences are reflected through it’s renowned art scene. Previously an old book store, synchronises with the 1950’s architectural features. With bright, contrasting open lighting the products are displayed rurally on reused materials, minimising the products. “Our signature is to mix up traditional elements from different backgrounds that inspire us. We use selected premium materials and combine function and handpicked details.”
Writing and Visual Curation Dominique Aspinall Editing Megan Blackburn
Topshop’s expanding empire amplifies their aberrant reputation, their digital presence continues to dominate all competitors. Topshop’s partnership with Google+ amplified their social aesthetic. With the revelation of the show much anticipated, the Google+ team released a short trailer via their Youtube platform, revealing a glimpse at what is in store for the London Fashion Week, Topshop Unique show, including behind-the-scene videos featuring popular Topshop modelsin their bid to reinvent the live runway experience, the future of the fashion in terms of the retailing perspective, Topshop’s flagship Oxford Street store sported their ‘Be The Model’ photo booth created by Google+, enabling customer to try on their favourite outfits selected from the store, posing for picture to later post on the personal social database forums. Inviting bloggers and fans to join this interactive database through Google’s YouTube platform, Google Hangout. The show’s live stream was accessible though Topshop’s website, alongside Google+ and Twitter, creating in house links to fashion blogs. Allowing their brand to develop into advanced markets in terms of high street and high end, yet still integrate with their original customer, making the brand more accessible. Google’s contemporary concept allowed audience members microscopic insight into the models perception of the show. By using customer input, Topshop are creating an app database that allows each customer to suggest what they want to bring to retail, allowing them to purchase the garments in store. Through the Topshop Hangout app, the customer gets to influence to buyers’ decisions. “Basically, every clip from the runway will be swipable into a wish list, Topshop, on their homepage, will essentially display the things users most want Topshop to actually manufacture - the fashion show shows a bunch of things, but only a subset of those actually get made in six months’ time.” - Cristian Cussen, Google+’s marketing.
Michelle Eyvanaki Final Collection
“I have always enjoyed exploring new concepts and ideas within womenswear, and feel there are no restrictions of what I can make for a woman to wear.“
Michelle is in her final year of Fashion Design at University of South Wales. How do you feel about studying fashion design outside of London? I feel that I haven’t missed out too much from studying Fashion Design in Cardiff rather than London as I know that I can always make London the next step in my life and career. My University has taught me so many skills and I have been pushed to become a better designer over the past three years, more so than some pupils I know of in other Universities, that I don’t regret my choice in University. Why have you chosen womenswear particularly? I chose to do womenswear for my Final Major Project as it has always been my niche. I have always enjoyed
exploring new concepts and ideas within womenswear, and feel there are no restrictions of what I can make for a woman to wear. In my second year, I thoroughly enjoyed Menswear, and creating my own Bespoke Tailored Men’s Jacket was such a big achievement, though I feel menswear has more limitations as to what you can create. I wanted freedom to design whatever I liked within my last big module of University. Have you had experience interning within any design houses at all? If so how did you find it? No, I haven’t had an internship yet but I plan to do this over the next year after graduating. I did have an opportunity to work for a small company in London last summer, but the company wanted me to work every day for quite a few months over the summer without any pay, which obviously was a big ask, as London is so
expensive. So unfortunately I had to turn this opportunity down. There’s a slight focus on outerwear in your collection, is this something you’re personally interested in? My collection needed to be either a Spring/Summer Collection or an Autumn/Winter Collection for my brief. I felt that going for the winter wear would be more of an opportunity for me to explore shapes and use an array of quality thick fabrics. I have always appreciated a beautifully made coat, so I wanted to bring out my own range of outerwear that reflected upon what inspires me. What the inspiration behind your collection? My collection has been inspired by two different stories, ‘Architectural Reclamation’ and ‘Metamorphosis Notion’ that I began to explore last
summer. I combined the two themes as I felt the ideas and concepts of the two linked well with one another. When looking at my architecture theme I explored the architecture that is out of the norm, such as The Guggenheim Museum by Frank Lloyd Wright in New York and The Rolling Bridge by Thomas Heatherwick in London… pieces that have shape and movement to them. The colour palette of my collection was also taken from architecture I explored and photographed in Manchester. The second theme, metamorphosis, explored the concept of cocooning, the protection it provides and the cushioning effect the cocoon has on the butterfly as it evolves within. I wanted this concept of comfort and shape to be represented in the collection; for the outer layers to represent the idea of a cocoon. The items are very wearable, was it a personal choice to make this kind of collection rather than more over-the-top fashion? Yes, I thought wearable clothing would be more likely to sell in a store if I ever were to have my own business, and it would help me find a job that fitted me and my style well. I also felt making a collection of wearable clothing rather than garments a bit more ‘out there’ would mean that I could potentially wear some of my garments.
After all, after spending a great deal of money on my collection I thought it would be nice to get a bonus out of it to be able to wear some of the garments! Do you feel your clothes are inspired by your own style much? Yes, I think my own style has influenced my collection a bit as I do appreciate a thick quality coat myself, and a lot of the colours within the collection are colours I favour and wear. The grey skater skirt and cream shirt were in fact developed from pattern pieces taken from garments I own. What are your hopes for after graduation? After graduation I hope to plan where I want to go to get a job whether it is in London somewhere else. As I was born in America, I have dual nationality, so it is a dream of mine to move to New York and get a job there if I can find a stable job in the fashion industry.
Photographer Sophie Pullen Model Jodie Morgan Location Swansea
Nia Samuel-Johnson Minimalism vs Print
Nia Samuel-Johnson is a third year Fashion student at University of West England. What are you studying and what does that course entail? The UWE fashion course has three different pathways. I am on the ‘communication’ pathway meaning I focus on visually communicating fashion. This can be everything from photography, styling, film & illustration. Why did you choose to study that? I actually started studying fashion design but eventually realised that it wasn’t the clothing I was interested in, it was everything surrounding it. The concepts and the way garments are represented visually began to excite much more than the way they had been constructed. Do you collaborate on your shoots, and if so how do you go about finding the right people to collaborate with? I have been collaborating a lot this year. I have been trying to experience a good variation of projects so have been working alongside designers, filmmakers, textiles students and other photographers. I think it is important to collaborate with people that aren’t too similar
to yourself. Bringing someone else’s concepts and ways of working on board has helped me to develop how I produce imagery, preventing me from getting stuck in my ways and my work becoming samey. The white shoot and the prints shoot are quite a contrast, are more of a prints or minimalism kinda girl? I always use vivid colour and brash prints or texture within my work. The white shoot was me challenging myself by stripping away any colour or pattern. It forced me to start thinking about 3D shape and shadow as a way of creating depth and texture. What process do you go through when planning shoots? It depends on the shoot. Sometimes I write huge lists and spend days sourcing or making things in preparation, and sometimes I grab a friend at the last minute and ask them to stand in front of a camera for me. In one of the shoots on your website you’ve used an older man in paint covered overalls as your model, what was the story behind that work? That’s my lovely dad! It’s one of my favourite pictures because it was a complete accident. I was
testing the lighting for a shoot with a model who was painted pink…and I asked him to sit there! Bristol is quite unique in terms of its arts and culture, do you find this inspires your fashion work at all? Bristols is a great city to be a student. I’m constantly inspired by other creative people and projects going on around me. How do you feel your own fashion sense differs to the outfits you put together for shoots? Do you ever find it difficult to separate the two? I’m not sure my fashion sense is represented in my shoots, as they are usually aimed towards a specific market or mood, rather than my personal fashion taste. Saying that, all the clothes in that prints shoot were from my wardrobe! What are your hopes for after university? I would love to get into set design and art direction.
Photography, Styling, Hair and Make Up Nia Samuel-Johnson
“Bringing someone else’s concepts and ways of working on board has helped me to develop how I produce imagery, preventing me from getting stuck in my ways and my work becoming samey.”
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“I am currently studying media and from the beginning saw Ouse as an opportunity to build my portfolio, I didn’t realise at the time what it would grow to be.”
Ouse is a new club night in Birmingham put together by students of Birmingham City University. The night started out as a recurring house party but the popularity has seen its venue size grow bigger with each event. Having just packed out Bordesly Street club Suki10c, the next event has been moved to Digbeth warehouse space Boxxed. Media student Leon Andro tells us how they have acheived this success as a team... The Ouse team is made up of 11 friends, and we all have our roles. The team works because we all have our creative skills. I predominantly manage the media side of things; filming the events and taking photos. I also direct the promo videos which we use to promote our events. I am currently studying media and
from the beginning saw Ouse as an opportunity to build my portfolio, I didn’t realise at the time what it would grow to be. I have Tom Rosenkranz and Josh Fry that help who do Television Studies at uni, they have helped me with filming and more or so on the editing. Ross Lamerton and Ben Clark both are in charge of decoration. They design the theme and make the venue match it. Ross is studying theatre production and predominantly focuses on the key aspects that will make the DJ area ‘pop’ and attain the attention it deserves. Ben does illustration and does all the flyer design and stickers. He also plays a large role in the decoration of the venue. Saul, Henry and Pat all study sound and it was great having them on board when we were doing house parties because they sorted out all
the speakers, wiring and making sure the music was at its best for the night. Faris and Oliver do business related courses and therefore use their skills in finance to monitor expenses. Ouse started as a house party. We all decided to put our skills together and do something amazing. A lot of the boys loved the art of DJing and it was a situation where they could showcase their skills with friends and get that all important audience based practice. After the huge success of the first event a second party was being organised almost instantly, however we set our sights for more. Increasing decoration, adding a stage and of course a better sound system! We are now hosting events in Birmingham and continue to expand with every event. The idea is taking each event as it comes and grow appropriately.
Photography Megan Blackburn Location Suki10C
Emily Gallagher is a Fashion and Textiles student at Cleveland College of Art and Design starting London College of Fashion in September. She runs the popular blog EmzGalz, impressing followers with her minimalistic style and beautifully curated posts. She has given us an insight into her day-to-day life using a simple disposable camera.
made you start blogging?
Are you excited about heading to LCF? What are you studying there?
What inspires your style? It is very minimalistic, are you never tempted to try a bright colour or print?
I have had Tumblr for many years but around 14 moths ago I decided to create my own blog with blogspot. com, because I wanted to create a webpage where I could publish my writing and opinions on fashion. Along with written pieces I also include my own photography and graphics. I plan on continuing my blog and hopefully one day develop it into a print magazine.
ethics whilst also appreciating her design aesthetic and style. I loved the surprise in her summer 2014 collection for Celine with her use of vivid colours and prints in contrast to her previous muted palette in her winter 2013 collection. A collection that I wasn’t sure about at first, which I now find myself obsessed with! You’ve also mentioned magazines like Tank and Garage on your blog, what do you prefer about those kind of magazines as opposed to Vogue, etc.?
“The concept of having a minimalist wardrobe, which allows you to style key pieces in different ways is also something that appeals to me and influences the way I dress.” I will be studying BA (Hons) Fashion Journalism at London College of Fashion, starting this September. I am extremely excited to live in London where I hope to gain a lot of industry experience through lectures and internships. What are you currently working on?
The past few months I have mainly been dedicated to my Final Major Project (FMP) at college. I have themed my project on technology within fashion.
Developing the idea of futurism, I carried out research on German electronic band Kraftwerk, taking inspiration from their ‘The ManMachine’ album art for my colour story, black and red. Along with general research, I also included designer research in my sketchbook, including Melitta Baumeister, a designer who works with neoprene, inspiring me to use neoprene when creating my own garments. Also, I researched Celine’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection, taking elements as inspiration such as eyelet detail. My final garments are a black neoprene jacket and a red dress with eyelets placed along the hemline. Your blog is gaining popularity, what
I am inspired by Yohji Yamamoto’s idea of cut, detail and fabric of a garment being the main focus point opposed to the colour or print. The only print I own is a black and white paint striped dress. As for colour, I am rarely tempted to wear it. Although I work with colour, the only colours I wear are shades of navy, nude and cream. The concept of having a minimalist wardrobe, which allows you to style key pieces in different ways is also something that appeals to me and influences the way I dress. In my room I have a clothing rail where I hang some of my clothes. This almost creates an installation within my room, consisting of my most reliable and favourite garments; a concept taken from [minimalist blogger] Ivania Carpio. What would be your top style tip?
“Buy less, choose well.” - Vivienne Westwood It is clear from your blog that you’re a big fan of Phoebe Philo and Celine, why is this? I appreciate Phoebe Philo, I understand and agree with her
I prefer seasonal magazines rather than monthly, as I find them less repetitive. Although, I do subscribe to ELLE because I like to read the trend articles and look at the high-street features and editorials. You’ve been featured on the websites of Grazia, Elle and JuJu footwear, how did that feel?
When I first received the email from Grazia and JuJu, I was very excited and flattered that I had been recognised and approached by them! I immediately got to work taking photographs and writing for JUJU about myself which you can find on their tumblr. As for ELLE, I was not approached by them, but I one day came across one of my images and recognised myself on their website which was also exciting! Although this is a while off for you, what are your plans for after university? Any hopes and aspirations for a future career? During university I would like to do internships which will help me gain experience and hopefully result in work. I hope to have a career as a contributing journalist/stylist after university and in a few years time maybe have a print or online magazine of my own… watch this space!
Photography and Model Emily Gallagher
Nicola is a third year Fashion and Textiles Design student at Somerset College of Art and Technology. What does your course entail? 3 years - Development in skills digital and traditional, pattern making, garment construction, understanding of industry, replacing a studio module with work placement if you want to, develop your own unique style, using different equipment to communicate ideas such as digital printers, digital embroidery, laser cutters etc, visual culture modules. Is there a less creative side to your course as well? Do you learn the technicalities of fabric, etc.? The creativity is full on, they like us to learn as much as we can so we can use it in are own individual way. We have refresher work shops each year but also more technical ones as time passes to give more knowledge. It’s a very hands on approach. We do receive seminars and lectures on things for visual culture, branding and presenting yourself. In terms of materials its learn as you go so as to give us the freedom to make our own decisions but if there is something specific we should be using they let us know, i.e. dyeing materials and different dye types.
At the end of your course do you have to have created fabrics or outfits? It’ s completely up to me as a designer I can make just samples and from that scale up samples into repeat/placement ect. to make outfits but its not essential. Personally I enjoy making and seeing my textiles in a 3 dimensional form so am creating sample collections and three outfits to showcase. How much do current fashion trends affect your work? I would say they impact my work a fair amount as having an awareness of the industry around me that I want to be involved in will only make me stronger and give me a better understanding. I use the trends to expand on what I have already began to produce adding influence when needed for example garment shapes. How much does your personal style influence your work? I would say it influences my work when it needs to really, as even though I personally don’t see myself as having a style my tutors and fellow peers say I do. Of course I produce work that I enjoy as it’s about me expressing who I am in a different way through colour and fabric.
What are your plans for after university? Showing my graduate collection at new designers London 25-28th June. From then onwards trying to gain as much experience as possible through work placements and internships to develop my creativity further. I would love to apply what I have learnt throughout the last three year in something like styling, merchandising or designing as it’s another level of visually communicating your passion and ideas.
Photography Hannah Lenthall Styling Nicola Sheehan Model Rebecca Jelley Make Up Media Make Up students of Somerset College
Model Mark Manzi
Model Liam Kearns
Johanan Lee-Frazer is a Design Communication student at the University of Salford and an independent graphic artist. What does Design Communication involve? Design Communication is a way of visual communication but to a set of almost standardised rules like colour compatibility, the flow of composition but overall it’s design that communicates a purpose. What’s your favourite aspect of the course? Typography is without a doubt my favourite aspects whether it’s digital or hand rendered. You do a lot of graphic design as well as photography, how did you get into that? I develop a strong visual understanding of how an image/publication should be produced so graphic design was the obvious pursuit for me although I wouldn’t want to do it for my whole career. What generally inspires your photography? Photography for me is about evoking the presence of
thought, people are always most creative and passionate when they’re emotional. I like to try and make people see my images and think about them. I guess you can say my inspiration is provoking people on a conscious and emotional level. How do you choose the people and places you photograph? The people is mostly just because I know them and have access to them regularly and I don’t like working with models it’s too forced. I try to keep things organic you know. As for places most my photos are just taken out and about I don’t think I’ve ever said right we’re taking pictures here at this time, that all seems too manufactured but on the flip side most of the ideas I want to execute would mean being very selective over locations so it’s an adaptive aspect of my work. If I need a place I’ll work with what I have for the time being. Does fashion play a role in your creative processes at all? Not necessarily, fashion bugs me. I don’t care what people wear so long as it does not directly contradict the attitude of the image I want to create. What’s the next step for you? Any plans for post-graduation?
Well right now I’m just trying to finish uni, I’d like to do other things but I commited to study so I’m going to finish it before doing anything major. That being said I’m actually starting to produce hand painted tee’s and original artwork for sale so that could potentially do well but we’ll see. After I graduate I’m going to sleep a lot but I’ll most likely be working full time independently.
Model Scarlett Rose
Model Mark Manzi
Model Johanan Lee-Frazer
Model Johanan Lee-Frazer
Pamela Ong Fashion Illustration
Pamela Ong is a Law student in Singapore who’s hobby of fashion illustration is garnering quite a following online. How did you begin drawing? I’ve always liked drawing and I realised when I was young that the focus for me was always on the clothes. So my Dad bought me my first sketch book for me to play with and I’d fill it with girls in clothes that I wanted to wear. At that time drawing was just a fun activity to play around with after school. As I grew older and school got busier so I didn’t draw as much. I remember doodling a lot in the corners of my notes and work. I don’t think it was until the long 6-month break I had between junior college and university that I really had the time to sit down and draw all day. I think that’s when I really started to experiment and develop my own drawing style. That’s also when I started toying with the idea of starting a blog for my drawings.
My friends were talking to me about my illustrations recently and we were discussing how to take it further. Unfortunately, all discussions have been tabled until after our finals but it did get me very excited so I hope something comes of it soon! You sell some work on art website Society 6, how do you choose which pieces to sell? I usually choose my personal favourites to sell. Also, because people are going to buy these works I put up the ones that are more polished. Drawing is still a learning process for me and often when I look back at my older pieces they look unfinished or rough around the edges so I don’t really want to put those pieces up.
imaginary world of dress up without the restrictions that you would have in real life. Plus my drawings have no identifying facial features so it’s easier to place yourself in the shoes of the girls and mentally construct a whole different lifestyle for themselves based on the drawings. At the same time I think luck definitely played a role! I was really lucky that people somehow came across my work and reblogged it for other people to see too.
“...who’s to say it’s not possible to work and develop this hobby into something more too. It would really be a dream come true if I could do that. “ Is illustration just a hobby for you or is it something you’d be interested in pursuing further?
At this point drawing really is just a hobby. It’s a really good way for me to unwind when the school term starts to get tough and stressful. I have thought about whether I’d like to pursue it as a career. It’s something I think about especially when I’ve had enough of university and the competitiveness of the corporate world in general, but at this point I think I want to finish what I started and at least get my degree. Any thoughts about completely switching career paths will have to wait till after that! Although who’s to say it’s not possible to work and develop this hobby into something more too. It would really be a dream come true if I could do that.
I’m hoping to get my art printed myself though. The merchandise on Society 6 can be a bit pricey so I’m trying to work out how to do it by myself. It’ll give me more control over the products and the prices. What do you use to sketch and colour your illustrations?
I really use the most basic stationery to draw because I do most of my drawing at my study table when I’m supposed to be studying (it’s my favourite form of procrastination), so I use whatever is within reach. Just a pencil, eraser and black pen to sketch. However, for colouring I do use art supplies like markers (I like copic markers). Your tumblr seems to have a lot of followers as you get a lot of questions, why do you think your drawing is so popular? I’m really not sure why people like my illustrations but I’m really glad they do! I guess everyone loves to play dress up and I like to think that my drawings portray some sort of
Who is ‘Pea’? Tell us a bit about her stories.
Pea is an imaginary construct of mine. I find that (at least to me) fashion can often seem intimidating so Pea’s stories are a way for me to make my drawings more relatable. If you look at most of the stories, they involve everyday struggles like waking up late or not feeling up to socialising with people. They help give my drawings a bit more personality and also hopefully allow people to identify with them. Pea’s also sometimes a version of myself. If I’m having a bad day Pea’s story will usually involve her having a bad day as well. One of my favourite Pea stories to write is about her wanting to eat everything but also still wanting to look great in her clothes. It’s a challenge I face all the time since I always overindulge in food! What is it like studying in Singapore? Are you from Singapore originally or did you move away to university?
I am from Singapore originally. Singapore being such a small country, most of us don’t need to move into dorms away form home since school is at most a 45-minute journey from home. It’s really fun here! A lot of us drive to school so we get to go out to town for lunch in between classes. Also, because the majority of us are from Singapore sometimes you see a lot of familiar faces in university or
even have like your best friend from secondary school with you. At the same time everyone is really hardworking and the workload really gets crazy. University’s supposed to be fun but most of the time during term you’re either studying or feeling super guilty because you’re supposed to be studying. Is fashion a personal interest of yours? Yes, it is! I love playing around with fashion because it’s like having a different personality everyday. Plus retail therapy is really fun! Where do you get the inspiration for the outfits you draw? I usually draw clothes that I myself want to wear. Also seeing how people dress is really inspiring. Just simple details like the way they fold their sleeves or tuck in their shirt can inspire a whole outfit. But inspiration can come from anywhere! Flowers and trees or scenery give me a lot of ideas. Do you feel they mirror the way you dress yourself? I’m not sure about this. I guess they show what I like and my style but a lot of the time the outfits are so crazy or just so completely unsuitable for the weather in Singapore that I can’t wear anything like them! These drawings are just things that I wish I could wear in real life.
Photography and Styling Megan Blackburn Model, Hair and Make Up Gabby Newman
Geri Batashvili Fashion Design Burberry Collaboration
Photographer Jordan Daniels and Megan Blackburn Stylist Geri Batashvili Model Andrew Sanders
To see behind the scenes of the shoot and designer Geri talk about her collaboration scan her picture on our Contents page.