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REETED BY OUR DRIVER AT Bandaranaike International Airport, we are soon whisked away and heading down a small, secluded road which opens up to reveal an expanse of tropical gardens. We have arrived at The Wallawwa, an antique manor house built in the 18th century which is now a boutique hotel. Our first Sri Lankan breakfast here is a new experience. We try small bowl shaped pancakes known as hoppers and dip them into a fragrant curry, followed by buffalo curd served with treacle. Sri Lanka’s ancient cities and crumbling temples is the first leg of our trip. Vil
Uyana is our base and it is rustic luxury at its finest – modern thatched villas, expanses of glass, polished concrete, and plunge pools. Later in the day we cycle along rural backroads passing by villages, paddy fields, ancient water reservoirs, and temples on the way to the ancient UNESCO World Heritage listed Sigiriya rock. One of the highlights of climbing the rock is viewing a collection of ancient frescoes of female forms painted directly on the rock itself. Back at Vil Uyana, an ancient Ayurvedic spa treatment of warm oil and soothing massage is calling. The next day we are off to explore the stunning ruins of Polonnaruwa on foot. The royal capital of the ancient Sinhalese and Chola kingdoms between the 11th and 13th centuries, it was once a thriving commercial and religious centre. After a good dose of Sri Lankan history and culture we make our way to Kandy, set deep in Sri Lanka’s hill country. This region is stunningly lush with green landscapes and cool mountain air. We overnight at the seriously luxurious Kandy House, which was once home to a
local Kandayan Chief. Dinner tonight is a full Sri Lankan curry banquet consisting of nine dishes, with each dish carefully prepared by the executive chef to complement the other. The Bogawantalawa Valley is the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea country and is where we will spend our next few days. Rolling hills carpeted with lush, green plantations of tea, tall eucalypts, and colourfully clad tea pluckers together paint one of Sri Lanka’s most scenic landscapes. Spread throughout the valley are four classic colonial bungalows – originally built for British tea estate managers in the days of the Raj, they have been beautifully restored. Trekking from bungalow to bungalow over the next few days, we follow the trails of the planters of old Ceylon. Our stay here is like stepping back in time – fine old world English luxury complete with butlers and traditional high tea. It is an early start one morning so we can join pilgrims on their journey to the sacred Adam’s Peak. A trail of sparkling lights illuminates the path as we climb Sri Lanka’s holiest mountain which has
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