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TRENDS Dark kitchens JOURNEY A Karoo ride for tvvo BEHIND THE SCENES Hellish hotels


decor, food and ar!

72 80 86

NAMIBIA Shifting sands PERTH A Weslern Australian treasure MALAWI The warm hearl of Africa DEIÃ&#x20AC; A well-kept Spanish secret WESTERN CAPE Roaming Robertson Valley

ON OURCOVER Boa! cruises enable visilors to enjoy incredible views of lhe pristine Mumbo lsland Lodge on Lake Malawi.

ABOVE: Nam ibia, p50. RIGHT: Malawi, p72

10 Sawubona November 2017


BUSINESS African tourism trends BUSINESS lnvesting in art 100 BUSINESS Global citizenship


LIFESTYLE 104 113 120 124 130 136 138 140 144 146 148

CONSERVATION A spotlight on gorillas ARTS ANO CULTURE FOOO ANO ORINK Foodie news you'll love EVENTS Around SA, Africa and lhe globe GALLERY Snow dogs WELLNESS Healthy flying 101 SPORT Teeing off for charity WHEELS S-Class style BOOKS This month's top reads BRAIN TEASERS Puzzles to pass the li me PARTING SHOT Telephone taboo

12 Sawubona November 20 l 7

LEFT: Global Citizenship, p 100.

BELOW: A Swiss roadtrip in lhe S-Class, p 140.



towinddown,we at SAA are heading into our busiest time and are stepping into top gear to ensure that every customer's tripisa memorable experience. Each member of our team - from cabin crew to pilots and ground staff - is passionate about what they do and this dedication is what enables us to stake our claim as a leading airline in Africa and across the world. SAA has always been a trendsetter, working harder and going further to offer the widest range of routes to our passengers. This forward-thinki ng strategy was what led us to be the first foreign airline to fly to and from Perth in 1957. This month we celebrate the route's 60th anniversary, our important connection with the cityand commitment to connecting Australia with South Africa. We are also excited to welcome our new CEO, Mr Vuyani Jarana, on board this month. SAA has been without a permanent CEO for severa! years and we look forward to workingwith Mr Jarana to achieve and maintain financial sustainability in the shortest time possible. Work is underway to finalise the appointment of some key executives to support the CEO in the implementation of the new turnaround plan. We will make announcements about this soon. Closely aligned to the CEO's appointment are operational efforts to stabilise performance. We have implemented networkremediation strategies tostem losses from some routes, combined with quick-win capacity additions on other routes. We are certainly ending the year on a high, with congratulations in order to Sawubona for being named Africa's Leading In-flight Magazine for the third year in a row, and to Dr ShengChun Wen, a Gold Voyager member who won a million Voyager miles as part ofthe Star Alliance 201hanniversarycompetition. We are extremely proud of our leading airline, which has continued its winning streak, winning Favourite Airline in Africa for the third consecutive year at the annual Trazee Awards in Boston, USA and being named a favourite brand in South Africa by our local customers. ln addition, Business Traveller UK magazine named SAA the Best African Airline for the 11th consecutive year. Winning awards inspires us to seek more opportunities for service excellence as we move towards a brighter future. Our determination and resilience are evident in the quality of the services we offer and the endorsements we receive. We would like to thank you for choosing to flywith us and we reaffirm our commitment to making every part ofyour journey unforgettable. Enjoy your flight!






14 Sawubona November 20 l 7


02.1 914-2.192. SOM:E:Rs:E:I MALL

02.1 852.-7017



DEFINITE senseofanticipationinthe air as we enter the final months of 2017. And what a year it's been. In this age of technology and social media, life seems to be busier than ever because we're constantly connected in one way or another, hardly ever able to completely get away. The coming holiday season offers the perfect opportunity to switch off the insistent and invasive buzzof social media, to relax and truly live in the moment, spending quality time with our friends and family without distractions. Getting out of the house and taking a trip - whether it's hopping into the car to discover new areas ofyour own city, or jumping on a plane and heading beyond our borders - is an ideal way to restore your energy leveis and revive your spirits. Ifyou're planninga holiday at home, why not take yourself on a cultural tour? We've got some great suggestions for those wanting to support local artists, many ofwhom are flocking to the country's reinvented inner cities (pg 114), which have been given new life by forward-thinking, socially aware developers. Ifyou're up for a longer road trip, why not head to Robertson Valley in the Western Cape? Our Deputy Editor Phakama Mbonambi visited recently (pg 86) and discovered first-hand that its reputation as one ofSA's top wineproducing regions is, indeed, well-deserved. There's also plenty of inspiration for those who want to explore our beautiful continent. A tour of Malawi's wide range of luxury bush lodges and resorts (pg 72) gave us the chance to see many facets of this state, whose people are among the most hospitable we've met, making it easy to understand why this tiny THE COMING HOLIDAY SEASON OFFERS landlocked country is also called the Warm Heart of Africa. THE PERFECT OPPORTUNITY TO In Namibia (pg 50), the vibe SWITCH OFF THE INSISTENT ANO is energetic and the landscape extreme. We toured the town INVASIVE BUZZ OF SOCIAL MEDIA, TO ofSwakopmund and its RELAX ANO TRULY LIVE IN THE MOMENT, surrounds, and with so much and do, we'll definitely SPEN DING OUALITY TIME WITH OUR FRIEN DS tobesee heading back there soon! AND FAMILY W ITHOUT DISTRACTIO ~ S. Another thrilling destination beyond our borders is Perth, Australia and this month we're marking an important milestone for South African Airways. In 1957, SAA became the first foreign airline to fly to the capital ofWestern Australia and this month marks the 60u. anniversary ofthe route. We(l like to congratulate SAA on this remarkable achievement. And there's yet another reason to celebra te this month! We're delighted to announce that Sawubona has won the award for Africa's Leading In-ftight Magazine for the third year in a row at the World Travei Awards. We're ftying high on the win and would like to thankall ofyou who voted. We're passionate about what we do and will continue to work hard to keep you entertained, informed and inspired. Wherever you're heading to this month, we hope you have a great ftight and enjoy the magazine.\~i

b ~o tl1.0 CEO: Ndalo Media

16 Sawvbona November 20 17



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Add your voice to the conversation on Facebook, where we talk all things travei. Visit our page and let us know what you th ink about the proposed renaming of South Africa http//ow ly/JyN830fqz23

"Y TWITIER From countries voted the world's most beautiful to the top drinking spots gunning for the fitle of World's Best Bar, we have it ali Follow us @SawubonaSAA to keep up with the latesf fravel news and frends

.Â. SAWUBONA: Best in Africa again! Special thanks to all ofyou for voting us Africa's Leading lnflight Magazine 2017 Yes, it's official we've bagged the award for a third consecutive year and it's all thanks to you, our valued readersl



"lt may sound like a cliché, but Malawi's best asset for attracting vis ifors to ifs shores is the uncommon grace and warmth of ifs people," says Sawubona Deputy Editor Phakama Mbonambi "lt's easy to see why the country is also known as 'the warm heart of Africa' "

SAWUBONA ~ishe< Khanyi Dhlomo Editor lngnd Wocd Gr<><.p ~Oire<tor Elaine Chand~r ExeruiveAs.ism~CEOMarincb Bnnk

FEATURES Oep.ily Editor Phakama Mbonambi Digi~ ConlentProd.Jc... P,,alebaga Makhokolo

We can't get enough of the beauty of our country, confinenf and world. Follow us @SawubonaSAA for the best travei inspirafion to feed your wanderlust

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GENERAL Rerepiorisl> P,,ndani Nki.Jna & Phumzile Mbokazi Dri"" Nhbnhb Khanyile

Rdrd'lnienls Co-ordinators:Greation Musevenzo &Michel~

SAACWTAClS Cuslorn"' Servire Weekdays, 08:0016:)) (Glv\T), e>IOluding X>uth Afrtan public holicby>. "'acusbmer.,rvic&>lly>:ncom,011 978 2888 or0860003 146 f<eoerV<Jions 24 hours reservationsjnb@fi)''°, 0119781111 \by<09« Weekd:iy>,07:0021 :00 (GMT) S::ilurchy>, Sundays and public holidays, 08:0014:00. VO)<>ge~ervicerecover,@?fly>, 0119781234 8Qg9<09eSer;;re(lost/cbmaged) Daily, 07:0019:00 (Glv\T). baggageservioe.s?fly>, 011 978 3733 REF~DS Weekdays, 08:0016:)) (Glv\T), e>IOluding X>uth Afrtan public holicby>., 0119781786 C~90Weekd:iy>,08:0019:00 (GMT), e>IOluding X>uth Afrtan public holicby>. S::ilurchy> and Sundays, 07:0013:00. ooigohelpdesl@fi)'"', 011 978 3366 Websile qUElies 'M>bheli:@lly>


fomd« & CEO Khanyi Dhlomo Oiredor Lwazi Dhbmo finmcial M<iooger Cherise Rae finmcial As.ismt (Ddilor,j Lientj~ van den Heever


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IUllSIED llY NJ\ffillSING SJIHS Gr<><.p Sal.. Oiredor Cilla Thompson

SAA EDITOOftl lEAM HCO, Meda Rdaions, Ufire ol "" CEO


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KEEPING GIRLS AT SCHOOL SAA and the lmbumba Foundation are working hard to ensure that menstrual challenges dq ;i't cost girls their education Caring4Girls is a sanitary towel distribution programme aimed at keeping girls at school during their monthly menstrual cycles. ln addition, the initiative focuses on improving education about puberty and adolescence and, in the process, debunking menstruahelated myths. The Caring4Girls programme, which currently reaches approximately 350 000 girls in ali nine provinces, ultimately aims to reach tvvo mi llion learners. As pari of SMs CSI programme, in partnership with the lmbumba Foundation we have reached four provinces across South Africa Mpumalanga, Gauteng, the Eastern Cape and the Western Cape. When we partnered with Richard Mabaso

20 Sawubona November 2017

of the lmbumba Foundation last year, our goal was to reach 3 000 girls and we are proud to announce that with our most recent outreach, we have reached 5 085 learners. Our latest initiatives were held in the Western Cape (reaching l 327 learners) and the Eastern Cape (600) The visits were a great success, with 87 080 sanitary towels donated. That's enough to last the l 927 learners tvvo full terms.


WORLD CHILDREN'S DAY Unicef commits to ensuring a better future for every child On 20 November, the United Nations Children's Fund (Unicef) celebrates World Children's Day lt's a day of action for chi ldren, by children - when young people raise their voices in solidarity with the most disadvantaged and vulnerable among them Today, 28 years since the adoption of the United Nations Convention on the Rights of the Child, 144 children will die from violence, 16 000 children under the age of five will die from preventable diseases, 50 million will remain uprooted from their homes (28 million of whom were forced to flee violent conflicts), 123 million six- to 15-year-olds will not affend school, and 300 million children will breath toxic air. These numbers force us to question whether we have achieved a world fit for every child, and the answer is clearly "not yet". We have seen immense progress over recent years, however The number of children dying before their fifth birthday has more than halved i n the past 25 years, hundreds of millions have been lifted out of poverty and more chi ldren are bei ng educated than ever before But despi te these impressive strides, many are being leh behind because of their gender, roce, religion, ethnic group or disability, because they live in poverty or in hardto-reach communities or simply because they are chi ldren Unice! hopes that World Children's Day will inspire governments, businesses and communities across the

world to listen to children and incorporate their opinions in the decision-making processes that affect them The children whose voices are heard on World Children's Day represent every child behind these statistics. lt is our duty to listen to them and recommit ourselves to the goal of ensuring that every child is treated fairlyand is living free from oppression, injustice and hardship Unicef would like to thank South African Airways for giving usa platform to showcase our messages and we are proud of our engagement with South Africa's national carrier.

On World ChildrerĂş Day, we need to commit to do more to make a better wortd for every child, everywhere. lf we get this right, every day will be World Children~ Day.

To support Unirnf and make a child sm ile today, SMS "U nicef" to 45 64 2 (standard rates apply). Supported by CM


unicef~fl) ~ 21

A TOAST TO SPIER! lncreclible innovations with waler anel wine: Spier is lhe WWF Conservation Champion Wine of lhe Month in SAA~ Business Class

• The farm Spier is one of the oldest wine farms in South Africa. Covering 620 hectares, they farm wine grapes, cattle, chickens and vegetables. • Farmíng ínnovatíons Since the farm was certified organic in 2015, no man-made pesticides or artificial insecticides have been used on the vineyards or vegetable gardens. Ali organic waste is recycled to make nutrient-rich compost, and they've created unique mobile chicken houses to naturally feed the soil with nitrogen-rich hen manure. • Eco-friendly footprínt Spier recycles 100% of its waste water. It is treated with environmentally friendly methods before beingused to irrigate lawns and gardens and flush toilets. More than 400 water-saving <levices have been installed on showers, basins and toilets in the manywashrooms. • Flora and fauna To restore the surrounding areas of the Eerste Ri ver, which runs through the farm, 23 people work to clear water-thirsty invasive alien vegetation. Local water-wise plants are cultivated in Spier's indigenous nursery and replanted in the cleared spaces. This has attracted

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abundant bird and wildlife. One million bulbs, 87 000 trees and shrubs, as well as 6 000 succulents have been propagated and replanted on Spier since 2005. • Fun actívítíes Spier is a foodie heaven, with four restaurants ranging from seasonal farm-to-table food to picnic and open-air options for sippingaward-winningwines or ai fresco dining. Visitors can also explore an awesome landscape architect-designed river walk, natural wetlands and the attractive outdoor water treatment plant with its innovative reed bed filtering system. • Functíon venues Spier can seat 430 conference delegates in its auditorium, has a four-star, 153-room hotel and seats 1 000 people in its outdoor amphitheatre. • The foundatíons The farm has been family-owned since Spier began operating three centuries ago - in 1692. The family who purchased it in 1993 lives on the farm and works closely with the Spier team to bring



accolade honours its long-standing cellarmaster who, since 1996, has helped transform Spier from a small cellar to a major Stellenbosch producer. Two new wines - a redanda white - bear his name: Frans K Smit. On board SAA you can enjoy Spier's Creative Block 5 - a Bordeaux-style red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot which won a double silver in the 2017 Top 100 SA wines.

·-------· COMPETITION: By downloading the

1 Champion Wine Guide app, you will 1 stand a chance of winning a seasonal 1picnic from the Spier Farm Kitchen 1 valued ai R880 for two adults and two 1 children, including a bottle of Spier 1


_______ ..

Signature Wine. Ts

& Cs apply

·-------· Support environmental

l leaders in SA's wine industry: 1 SAA is pleased to support WWF's

1Conservation Champions by profiling lhe estales and serving their Wines. 1SAA is committed to improving lhe 1suslainable sourcing of its on-board 1wine seleclion, with 25% currently 1 from Conservation

1 1 1 1 1

·-------· Champions.

22 Sawubona November 20 l 7

positive change to the environment and community. They invest in their staff, with a particular focus on education programmes around conservation issues. • The philosophy Spier believes in making a difference in the lives of its guests, staff, community and the environment every day. Sustainability is central to everything it stands for. • The flagship While Spier produces a range of award-winning wines, the lates!

• The future WWF's Conservation Champions proudly use the Cape sugarbird and protea logo on their wine bottles. This striking logo symbolises their biodiversityfriendly farming methods as well as their long-term commitment to nature and conservation of the Succulent Karoo and Cape Floral Kingdoms. • Visit your app store to download WWFS Champion Wine Guide or visit:


DO THE RIGHT THING FOR OUR OCEANS Our oceans are rarely in the s~tlight, yet they procluce much of the oxygen we neecl to breathe, absorb aliout one-thircl of our co2 emissions, are a source of foocl anel provicle us with employment, recreation, energy anel transport The world's oceans are of crucial importance for human beings and yet they are under threat dueto our activities. Their current state is cause for great concern: 89% of the world's commercial fish stocks are over-fished or over-exploited and marine life is under severe pressure from global warming and pollution. Ifs estimated that over 165 million tons of plastic (25 limes theweight ofthe pyramids of Giza) are floating in the waters we need for our survival. The oceans are also vi tal to feed the world's burgeoning population, which is expected to reach nine billion by 2050. This means we are facing a double challenge. We have to halt the degradation of our oceans at the sarne ti me as we increase ocean productivity. These tasks seem almost impossible given our track record and limited success thus far. If there was ever a time to be an ocean champion working to making a difference to the health of our seas, it's now. So make wise choices and take action, because ifwe ali work together our efforts can have farreaching results.

SASSI orange or red list. Don't just keep quiet, call them out. • If you litter, that litter blows into a storm drain. Ali drains lead to rivers and ali rivers lead to the sea. Always dispose ofyour rubbish in a responsible way. • Now go one step further and ditch the disposables. Use reusable cups and shopping bags, sustainable straws and your own takeawaycontainer whenever possible. • Volunteer for beach and river clean-ups in your town or city. Avoid toiletries with microbeads and other plastic particles that are harmful to the environment. If they are swallowed by sea creatures, the chances are they'll end up in your digestive system. • Support WWF, SASSI and aquarium initiatives and activities to promote consumer awareness. It is a proven scientific fact that doing the right thing releases happy hormones, such as serotonin and dopamine, so do what you know is right and playyour part to protect our oceans - it will literally make you happier. ~

HERE'SHOW • Use your hard-earned money to make the right choices next lime you sit down to a seafood meal byordering only sustainably sourced seafood. Use the WWF-SASSI app ( to access our traffic light system or send a message to our FishMS number (079 499 8795) with the name of the fish you are considering purchasing. Green is "Best Choice': orange is "Think Twice" and red is "Don't Buy''. Challenge retailers and restaurants if they're serving something on the


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A great way to support the wonderful work of VVWF South Africa is by donating your SM Voyager Miles • Log i nto your Yoyager account ai • Choose Yoyager Shopping and select Donate Miles. • Under Target Account, select WWF and make your donation. This enables you, as a Yoyager member, to greatly assist WWF South Africa in working towards its conservation goals, freeing up valuable organisational resources to be ploughed directly into environmental work. 23

Experience... the Best Classical & Contemporary Cu isine, Rare Wine Vintages, Breathtaking Views, Unsurpassed Service, Awa rd winning Wines, the Finest Cultivars...

A Combination so Re fres hing ly Satisfyi ng, it should be Savoured, Every Day...

Bata Seafood Reataurant Is upatalra at the Vlcto1la Wharf • V&.A Waterfront • Cape Town

Tel: 021 421-0935/6/7 • Fax: 021 421-0933 •

Fully llcensed. Open for lunch and dlnner dallv as well as llght terrace lunches.




HEY SAILOR! The ultimate ocean marathon - the Volvo Ocean Race - involving the world's best professional competitors is on its way to South Africa, with the Cape Town stopover taking place from 24 November-1 O December. The race village is open to the public anda jam-packed calendar of events is going down at the V&A Waterfront Nota yachtie2 Get into the spirit of sailing (trust us, it is a vibe), as well as the start of the holiday season ai this popular quay-side spot Find out more ai, Facebook @Volvo Ocean Race Cape Town and lnstagram @vorcapetown 25

Franschhoek's finest Franschhoek is South Africa's Francophile hotspot and, with its Provenรงal feel and selection of award-winning reslaurants, it's a firrn favourite arnong lravellers. Looking for sornewhere bespoke to stay2 Head for Akadernie Street Boutique Hotel and Guest House. Tucked away frorn the busy rnain road, it's perfectly private. lt's a design-lover's drearn, owned by an lrish farnily and the proprielor has a keen inferes! in antiques and unique pieces frorn around the world He has, for the mos! pari, decorated the property hirnself, Wilh iterns of inferes! and local artefacts The horne-away-frorn-horne experience is what Akadernie Street slrives for - and it delivers

26 Sawubona November 20 l 7

successfully Wonderful touches include cornplirnentary pre-dinner drinks (the perfectly blended cocktails are delicious), as well as a help-yourself rninibar anda generous selection of dark chocolates at your bedside, which are in your roorn all day, nol jus! presented ai night. Breakfasls are served ai your table (there's no queuing ai a buffet at this top hotel) and lhe food is hornernade to perfection - even down to lhe granola. All in all, it's a superb offering and one that has earned the property a nurnber of TripAdvisor accolades, including the Traveller's Choice Award and being narned a Top Srnall Hotel in the World.



The business

of travei Travei agents are doing it for themselves, which means taking a more global approach to business "As customers streamline their in-house administration and search for travei management companies to manage their complex travei needs, brand strength will put you on their radar," says Derek HearlMaunder, President & Chiei Operating Officer of Uniglobe Europe, Middle East and Africa Enter a new opportunity for well-run, medium-sized travei agents to partner with international travei giant Uniglobe, which has been brought to South Africa by Duma - a l 00% black-owned and 50% black women-owned business lt's in a strong position to lead Ira nsformation in the industry Duma bring ing Unig lobe to SA means access to a global travelmanagement system that helps its members win new customers, access cutting*dge technology, benefit from massive purchasing power, operate more cost-effectively and gain market share What does this mean for travellers wanting to explore the world2 Simple answer homegrown travei agencies that are still open for business. Local travei agents are facing severe challenges, says Themba Mthombeni, the founder and CEO of Duma Slow economic growth, shrinking profits and rising running cosls are jus! some of the threats they face New technologies increase the chance of business success and support the industry and the local market.

_____..., --

Visit www.dumatravelcoza

Feast on this Paarl's very own feast-ival is taking place on Sunday, 26 November, with Avondale's rather fabulous "Field to Feast" summer luncheon (R550 per person) The day will start with a tour of the property (by farm-chic tractortrailer) with owner Johnathan Grieve, who'll take guests through the biodynamic principies underpinning the growth of Avondale since the fami ly became custodians of the land over 20 years ago Then it's bubbly lime with a glass of Avondale's award-winning Armilla MĂŠthode Cap Classique before the leisurely farm feast Each of the three courses will be paired with a glass of Avondale wine. The menu is entirely seasonal, with fresh produce from the gardens Visit https //avondalewine coza/

Flights of fancy Feast your eyes on the gorgeous bling from First Diamonds' new African Earth Collection An ode to African soi Is, the use of fancy-coloured diamonds means these precious pieces are true statement jewels "Quite simply, the stone makes the piece," says Heidi Wahl, Brand and Marketing Manager for First Diamonds And we think so too! Visit. wwwfirstdiamonds.coza

faber or email faber@avondalewine coza 27

WHAT'S HOT Compiled by Gillian Cook

FEED YOUR WANDERLUST Luxury African spots that encapsulate the spirit of their magnificent setting ParkHyatt ZanzibĂ r Located on the beachfront in the heart of Stone Town, a designated UNESCO heritage site, Park Hyatt Zanzibar provides the ultimate haven amongst Stone Town's labyrinth of winding alleys, â&#x20AC;˘ bustling markets and mosques. The ho te 1 is housed in two buildings, the Mambo Msiige, a building steeped in history, grace and mystique with a story dating back to the 17"' century, and the new Zamani residence, which blends the historie with the contemporary From the spacious, elegant guest rooms, authentic cuisine and spectacular views to the oceanfront infinity pool, Anantara Spa, fitness centre and exceptional event and private function facilities, Park Hyatt Zanzibar offers discerning business and leisure travellers a luxurious and unforgettable stay https//

za nzibar. park. html 28 Sawubona November 20 l 7

ROYAL MANSOUR MARRAKECH, MOROCCO Is this a palace2 Is it an ancient medina2 The Royal Mansour's enormous estale is a haven of luxury and privacy i n the heart of bustli ng Marrakech. The layout of the main building stays true to the style and symmetry of classical Moorish architeclure, wh ile the interior pays homage to the virtuosity of Morocco's artisan craftsman Every one of the 53 riads is uniquely decorated and is the guests' private domain, accessed directly from one of the medina's many walkways. With a world-class spa, library, pool, lush gardens, a cigar lounge, fireplace lounge and three restaurants, you'll be spoilt for choice of cuisine and relaxation options.

anclBeyoncl Ngorongoro Crater Loclge, Tanzania Consistently recognised as one of the world's most luxurious places to stay, the lodge is perched on the edge of the crater. Sumptuous safari suites offer breathtaking views. With just 30 suites in the three intimate camps, you can escape to a bygone era, complete with a private butler. Frequently described as Maasai-meets-Yersailles, the stilted, handcrafted mud and thatch suites are adorned with antiques, grand chandeliers and authentic African treasures. Floor to ceiling Windows overlooking the crater make for dramatic sights and memories. www a ndbeyond. com


Hluhluwe Hot Spot ANEW Hotels recently launched lhe lates! addition to its growing portfolio of properties ANEW Hotel Hluhluwe & Safaris The hotel is a launchpad from which you can explore many of Zululand's gems such as lhe nearby Emdoneni Cheetah Project, whale-watching or fishing ai St Lucia Estuary and diving at Sodwana Bay. False Bay, on the western shores of Lake St Lucia, offers excellent birding and hiking trai Is and is jus! l 2km away The hotel has its own game vehicles, soa visit to all these spots can be arranged. "The ANEW Hotel Hluhluwe & Safaris will always be a three-star hotel, but with these great attributes, we are well placed to provide our guests with a four-star service," says CEO Clinton Armour. Visif http//

Secluded Space Always fancied a private villa bush experience2 Karkloof Safari Villas is now offering sole-use of the property- in addition to individual bookings -to those looking for a once-in-a-lifetime African holiday The home-awayfrom-home destination comprising 16 individuallydecorated and surnptuous private villas is sei in a magnificent landscape with abundant wildlife There's a lot to keep you busy, including game drives, romantic picnics, bush braais, mountain-biking, birdwatching, guided walks, hikes to the Karkloof Waterfall, fishing ai Albert Falis Dam and day spa packages ai the onsite Karkloof Safari Spa. You can also tick off sightings of white rhino, buffalo and leopard, as well as giraffe, hippos, warthog, buck anda wo nderfu 1 array o f flora a nd fauna Vi sif www ka rkloofsafa rispa. com

or te/ 033 569 1321

TENTED LUXURY Want the experience of a traditional African safari with a historie feel2 Although contemporary in style, Kapama Buffalo Camp (pari of the Kapama Private Game Reserve in the greater Kruger area) gives guests lhe feeling of oldworld Africa. Leisurely luxe is the order of the day after waking up in your tented suite (these are built on stilted wooden decks on an elevated riverbank), bird-watch from the comfort of the tastefully-appointed lounge, take a dip in the elevated rim.flow pool, which has views directly into the fores! canopy and spend the evening around the open camp fire eating ai fresco - if weather permits - listening to the sounds of the bush. Visit

30 Sawubona November 20 l 7


Limited Edition Love pop-up shops2 Pop-up restaurants, like their retail contemporaries, give usa chance to experience something we might never have been able to enjoy otherwise. The success of Luke Dale-Roberts' Pot Luck Club in Cape Town means his Jo'burg version, aptly named the Pop Luck Club at the Marabi Club in Maboneng, will extend its stay until 26 November. Get lhere! or email

YES, CHEF! This is a great lime of year lo lake a triplo the seaside town of Hermanus, in the Western Cape. Restaurant-wise, the whole area has seriously upped its game and we recommend a visit to Benguela on Main - described as a luxury getaway for a classic fine Wine and dining experience - to sample chef Jean Delport's delicious fodder Delport is on a culinary crusade and you'll find hints of his latest favourites - onions and Jerusalem artichokes - on the menu, each served with an inventive twist.

Visit www or email for reservations.

lt's All Greek to Me lf you've visited Athens, Greece and been to Plaka, you'll be aware of its wonder. "Plaka is the heartbeat of Greece's modern capital and being on the northern and eastern slopes of the Acropolis, it's also the old historical neighbourhood of Athens," says Angelo Haitas, founder and owner of Plaka, the South African family-owned restaurant chain. "lt's this tapestry of traditional culture within a modern society that we are bringing to Plaka in South Africa" Check out Haitas's Menlyn Park restaurant in Pretoria, with its refreshed decor anda new menu that remains true to Plaka's long-standing philosophy of modern traditional Greek fare Expect traditional favourites like calamari, moussaka, kleftiko, whole grilled line fish, prawns and lamb chops, as well as more contemporary dishes such as honey-mustard pork fillet anda delicious fully-loaded fisherman's pasta. Street food such as yiros, souvlaki and toasted pi tas are available for a quick meal on the go. Te/ O 12 348 4903. 32 Sawubona November 20 l 7


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HOLIDAY HAIR Deluxe haircare brand Oribe (pronounced "or-bay") is new in South Africa No expense has been spared on formulation or packaging, and this is one range that can take centre-stage in your bathroom We're smitten with the Cote d'Azur signature scent, which makes us feel like we're on holiday Look out for their convenient travel-size bottles To order online (deliveries nationwide), visit za

Mani-Pedi Bliss Say "hei lo" to OPl's new Pro Spa range - ski ncare for ha nds and feet that's dosed with antioxidant-rich ingredients Our summer must-have is the Protective Hand, Nail & Cuticle Cream 50ml (R240), with daisy flower extract to help brighten the skin and peptides to plump it up lt's like a facial for your hands. Tel 021 442 7700 for stockists.

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ln need of a good night's rest2 lf you're prone to tossing and turning, spend a little ti me resolving your sleep troubles at the Renewal lnstitute's Morningside branch, which has two sleep laboratories, the most advanced tech nologies anda highly qualified team You can have your sleep patterns assessed by doing a home study (in the comfort of your own bed) with data being stored and analysed later or spend the night in-dinic, making use of the luxurious facilities while being monitored on an FDA-approved polysomnograph device Fitted with the lates! developments in amplifier design and signal processing, it provides a customised sleep assessment Once your results are in, treatment options will be discussed to ensure you're no longer endlessly counting sheep Visit wwwsleeprenewalco za


TUNE INTO YOU Elemis has released a new range of aromatic blends designed to use scent to calm the mind and body The Life Elixirs come in pocket-sized fragrances and bath and shower oil in five variants Clarity, Caim, Sleep, Fortitude and Embrace Choose according to your needs or, better yet, get one of eachl Available at select Edgars stores and at www ele mis-sa coza 34 Sm\IUbona November 20 l 7

FLAMINGO Double-duty beauty is a traveller's saving grace The latest essential is the Tangle Teezer Compact Styler Skinny Dip (available at Clicks) lt has a two-tiered system - the long teeth detangle and the short teeth smooth the hair cuticles - and comes in a protective cover (this limited edition for summer sports a tropical palm tree and flamingo print) lt's also small enough to fit in your handbag Win-winl

~ STERNS 1896 VISIT OUR FLAGSHIP STORES EASTGATE, MALL Of AFRICA, SANDTON, MENLYN, EAST RAND MALL (JHB), CANAL WALK (CT), WESTVILLE, GATEWAY (KZN) ln love with these beautiful pieces? Call 021 938 1250 for more info.


Made in the Karoo 03


Mohair is one of our country's rnost unique and luxury fibres and investing in a beautiful - and locally rnade - high-end product for your horne is one way of supporting a sustainable product. Made by wornen in rural cornrnunities, Frances VH handrnade woven rnohair rugs come in a variety of earthy, natural colours inspired by the region where Frances grew up, the Karoo. She, and the cornpany she runs, place a huge ernphasis on helping to preserve and celebrate traditional craftsrnanship in rural areas of SA, providing artisans with an ongoing incorne. Visif wwwfrancesvhcom

O1 Designer Frances van Hasselt of Frances VH Mohair Rugs.

02 Rugs from lhe Raw Landscape and Karoo Plains Colledions. The seledion of colours -which range from light, warm hues to earthy tones - showcase the natural texture and unique colouring of lhe moha ir. 03 A natural rug from the Raw Landscape Colledion. The use of the finest natural fibre and traditional weaving processes transform lhe rugs into ob jeds of understated beauty.

COUTURE CANDLES Treatyourself to this stylish horne candle (with fringe benefits)- the packaging alone is a delight. South African designer Gavin Rajah has learned up with @horne to creale a lirnited edition of horneware for lovers of all things fine. The candles (R399 each), narned Versailles, La Belle Ă&#x2030;poque and Rajahstan, are rnade frorn l 00% soy wax and essential oils and, once rnelted, can be used as a rnoisturiser or rnassage oil. Each candle has a different olfactory cornposition (La Belle Ă&#x2030;poque, for exarnple, is a blend of Turkish rose, oud, bergarnol and ginger) offering benefits such as relaxation, help with sleep and soothing lhe nervous systern.

36 Sawubona November 2017

With a nod to early European style, St Leger & Viney introduces Cheslnut Hill, a classic colleclion of sophisticated wallpaper, ernbroidery, print and woven fabrics A soft and lraditional palette on a backdrop of warrn neutrais and hues of peacock blues, graceful greys and deep cri rnso n r eds is the look. Many patterns were reproduced with aged or worn effects that resernble the style and feel of original artvvork. This botanical printed wallpaper certainly has us excitedl "Wallpaper rernains one of the biggest decoraling trends, adding depth and texture to alrnost any roorn in the horne," explains Peter Gordon, Crealive Director for St Leger & Viney "Pattern, in general, is rnaking a big corneback in decorating and a beautiful patterned or texlured paper can transforrn a space and express the horneowner's individual fia ir and personality"





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BEST FOR:AN OVERNIGHT STAY Not all travellers are fans of traditional suilcases. lf you love local design, go for a beautifully crafted bag from lhe Feed On Julie De Pao's Weekender range (R4 200 each), available in a variety of colours. These genuine leather bags have an ouler and inner zip pocket, are fully lined and comply with aircraft handluggage regulations. Visil www. feedon ju li edepao. com

BEST FOR: LIGHT LIFTING Yes, we hear you, most suitcases have pull-out handles and wheels these days, but lhe heavier the material lhe luggage is made from, lhe heavier it is to pull Enter the Uplite 55cm spinner suitcase from Samsonite (R2 995), their lightest sott-side range yet. Vis it www. houseofsa mso nite. co .za

Pack perfectly LUGGAGE THAT MAKES BUSINESS TRAVEL A CINCH BEST FOR: WRINKLE-FREE PACKING There's nothing more ti me-consumi ng tha n sleaming crumpled clothes smooth after they've been folded in your luggage for 12 hours, or worse - having to shell out for a pricey in-hotel ironing service. Meet Thule's Subterra 36L Carry-on (R5 999). lt comes with a compression panei to maximise packing space and minimise wrinkling. Smart, huh2 Visit www.thule. com/en/za

38 Sawubona November 20 l 7

BEST FOR: HAND LUGGAGE Choosing jus! one piece of hand luggage for the flight and for use on your trip - especially a business trip - is lricky. Samsonite's range of hand luggage offers convenience and style for lhe discerning traveller. Our favourite piece2 The Weave Backpack (above right) (Rl 899) is ideal for every occasion. Visil www. houseofsamsonile coza

BEST FOR: THERE-ANDBACK IN ADAY Those out-of-town flights for jus! one meeling don't require luggage, but a smarl way to carry the documenls you need is in a bespoke folio Nothing looks as swish as the Via La Moda 885 Folio in grey (R 19 552). Visit


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RESTAURANTS CROSSING TO THE DARK SIDE The term "dark kitchens" conjures up images of trying to cook without electricity. But, as Dion Chang discovers, it's the start of a new food revolution that will forever change the restaurant industry

Dion Chang is the founder of Flux Trends.

VISIT: www.fluxtrends. com for more game.chang ing business trends.


TĂ&#x2022;myphone(moreso than usual), following the progress of my UberEats order. It's compelling viewing. The app logs and updates me on every step from the moment my order is placed, including notifications that the chef has started cooking my food, that the courier has collected my prepared order and then which route he's taking to my house, right down to the second the doorbell rings which, incredibly, is within a minute ofthe ETA the app promised when l placed my order. Welcome to the world of e-food, the new food-on-demand or mo bile-food - revolution. E-food is not your common or garden variety takeaway delivery service. It takes the experience to a whole new tech- and algorithminfused levei, not only in menu variety, but also in terms of user experience. It's a masterclass in customer anticipation and fulfilment of instant gratification. This is a potent combination, which is why l can confidently call it a revolution. Food delivery isn't new, but e-commerce and the ondemand economy is. Add to these unchartered waters a sluggish global economy and a rapidly changing consumer mindset and new, hybrid business templates are suddenly spawned. Desperate times sow the seeds ofinnovation. Traditional food-delivery services focused on food from fast-food chains. You couldn't access the niche or more high-end eateries. If those restaurants did offer a delivery service, it was up to the restaurant to incorporate it into their business model - tricky ifyou're focused on table service. Technology has changed ali that. ln 2013, a company called Deliveroo was launched. Its core business was to provide restaurants with a delivery service, charging the restaurant a commission fee and charging the customer a delivery fee. Deliveroo now operates in 12 countries across the world. Providing this service to ali restaurant categories has expanded restaurateurs' market and reach. Couple this new option with a growing customer base with less disposable income that's buying into the notion

of "take away to eat at home" as a solution to balancing the household budget, while still allowing for a family treat and the game begins to change. Enter the dark kitchen. With its presence firmly entrenched and still growing, Deliveroo is pioneering the concept of dark kitchens, which allows them to own a bigger portion of the value chain. The term "dark kitchens" is derived from the e-commerce term "dark stores'; the growing distribution system for e-commerce. As online shopping grows in popularity, e-commerce companies are increasingly investing in "dark stores" - strategic warehouses in different areas, whose sole function is to enable the fastest possible delivery of products to online shoppers. Dark kitchens play the sarne role and are designed for on-demand diners instead of sit-down customers. Deliveroo currently has five dark kitchen sites in the UK and aims to launch 30 more by the end ofthe year in that country, Singapore, Dubai, Hong Kong, the Netherlands, France and Australia. These dark kitchen sites comprise repurposed shipping containers, with each kitchen preparing dishes from different parts ofthe world for Deliveroo's own food offering - Deliveroo Editions. Dark kitchens are also springing up in the USA, and some restaurateurs are even exploring deliveryonly restaurant models like David Chang's Ando. But competition is already fierce. ln the USA, food delivery services like Postmates, DoorDash, Caviar and Seamless are ali vying for a slice of the e-food pie, while companies like SpoonRocket, Sprig, Maple and Munchery have already failed. Despite these failures, McKinsey estimates that global online food delivery will grow 25% over the next few years, which is why the concept of dark kitchens is so significant. ln August, Deliveroo raised $275 million in funding for its global expansion, so perhaps the combination of deep pockets and dark kitchens will prove to be the tipping point for this "tap-to-eat'; on-demand food revolution. ~


40 Sawubona November 20 l 7

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CYCLING IN THE KAROO The charm and beauty of Graaff-Reinet is overwhelming and best enjoyed on two wheels


enjoyvisiting little South African towns - or "dorpies", as ali and sundry call them. Steeped in history, they never fail to enchant, with their architecture, food and slow pace a welcome respite from hectic city life. They are the soul of this country. Earlier this year, on impulse, we decided to explore the Great Karoo for the first ti me. We wanted to visita town that truly captured the spirit of the country's interior and settled on Graatf-Reinet in the Eastern Cape. As keen cyclists, we believe that holiday destinations are best explored on bicycles. So, with Graatf-Reinet in our sights, we were excited by the thought of cycling on the open country roads, breathing the clean air and admiring our surroundings. Two weeks later, flushed with excitement, we landed a t Port Eliza beth Airport. Having researched GraatfRei net, we knew that it's SA's fourth-oldest town after Cape Town, Stellenbosch and Swellendam, that it's home to more national monuments than any other town in the country and that it's called the "Gem of the Karoo". After collecting our bikes and bags, we climbed into our rented car and hit the road for the 224km trip that awaited us. The road was o pen and the ride peaceful, with rugged mountains and scraggly trees rushing past. Our first stop was Jansenville, a small town on the plains ofthe Camdeboo, just north ofthe Klein Winterhoek mountains, for some refreshing cotfee and - to prove that we were truly in the Karoo - some delicious biltong. After exploring the town on foot, we got back on the road. Hours la ter we crossed a large, old bridge that took us over the bone-dry Sundays River - the crippling drought had done its worst - to reach Graatf-Reinet at last. At the town's entrance we spotted the Robert Mangaliso Sobukwe Museum and Learning Centre, an appropriate tribute to a great man from the town. Further on we were greeted by well-preserved Victorian houses, a huge gothic Dutch Reformed Church in the middle oftown, cotfee shops, more museums, galleries and an assortment of small-town stores. For the next four days we stayed at the Drostdy Hotel, a five-star boutique establishment in the middle oftown. 42 Sawubona November 20 l 7

Mobila Mthanti is a social cycl ist who is passionate about lhe redevelopm ent of Jo'burg. He enjoys travei, good food andwine.

INSTAGRAM & TWITTER @Moreish_Travels and @Delicious_ Escapes

Graatf-Reinet truly is agem. For the best view of the town, book a private game drive to the top of the Camdeboo National Park for sundowners. On the other side of the park is the Valley of Desolation, with its vertical cli tfs and towering colum ns of ancient dolerite that give the area a tranquil, other-worldly quality. From here it seems as though you could simply reach out and touch the clouds. White cycling around town, we spotted Our Yard Roastery & Cultural Shop - a local institution. It's a perfect place to relax if you like cotfee, great food and art. On the premises you'll also find Johannesson Craft Liquor Merchants, which otfers a breathtaking range of craft gin and beer. Finding ourselves with some time, we drove to Nieu Bethesda, a nearby village at the foot of the Sneeuberg Mountains, which is charming in its quaintness. We visited The Brewery and Two Goats Deli, which specialises in craft beer, cheese, honey and various meats, including a to-die-for smoked kudu salami. The spot is a one-man show and you won't find these products anywhere else. Talk about artisanal originality! A few days later, nourished by the sights and ali the yummy artisanal goodies we found in the Karoo, we packed our bags and bikes and headed back to join the rat race in the city. ~~



ANY PORT IN ASTORM Paula Slier has learnt the hard way that when booking a hotel in a warzone, you can gel a lot more than you bargained for

THERE USED TObeaBritish TV series called Holidays From Hell and I'm now fully qualified to write the sequei, with a special focus on horrific places to stay. You know the drill: you've booked your flights and day tri ps and now need a place to rest your weary head. Cal! me old fashioned, but I prefer to know at least an hour in advance where I'll be sleeping that night. And it's ideally in a room that has not mistakenly been given to another hotel guest, as happened to my cameraman on a trip to Kurdistan. He checked in, left his luggage in the room and went out, only to return to finda half-eaten meal resting beside a Kalashnikov on the table anda fat man lounging in his bath. No points for guessing who gave up the room first!

was still intact with the Do Not Disturb sign hanging from its handle. I've learnt to carry my hotel's business card with me when I go out. Ifs one thing flagging down a taxi to take youfrom the hotel, but quite another getting one to take you back if you don't kn ow where you're staying. Take it from me, there are severa! Holiday Inns in many cities. I learnt the Arabic phrase "Hamdullah" ("Than k God") after driving around Cairo for three hours in a taxi looking for my hotel. I don't knowwho was more relieved when we finally stumbled upon the right one by chance - the driver or me! I remember once being embedded on the frontline with Kurdish fighters and my sister, who lives in London, was frantic with worry. She phoned each night to check that I was still alive and in bed. Her mistake was never querying where that bed was. So while yes, I assured her that I was under my blankets, I failed to mention I was on the edge of a cliffwith only a couple of sandbags separating me from Islamic State fighters justa few hundred metres away. Bless my sister; she slept soundly, while I didn't sleep a wink. However, my best experience, by far, accommodation-wise was in Vilnius, Lithuania. I arrived at 2am ata hotel I'd selected at random online. The receptionist informed me that rn been given the "Spy Room''. which had no number. I therefore had to search for it, floor by floor. Fun, but not exactly what you want to do at two in the morning! I was rewarded with a telescope on the balconyand a dartboard over the bed. Smeared lipstick stains and gun stickers were hidden behind the toilet and in the cupboards. As I looked for them - participating in the "secret mission" - I wondered ifl'd been given the room because I work for Russian TV Here's hoping I'm not reading too much into that! 'Q..

ON A RECENT TRIP TO BAGHDAD, MY TAXI DRIVER RECOMMENDED A HOTEL THAT HAD BEEN BOMBED A FEW DAYS EARLIER, BECAUSE THE CHANCES OF IT BEING BOMBED AGAIN ANYTIME SOON WERE LOW. My biggest problem when booking hotels online is that most web sites don't suggest many options in Iraq, Syria and Afghanistan. On a recent trip to Baghdad, my taxi driver recommended a hotel that had been bombed a few days earlier, because the chances ofit being bombed again anytime soon were low. Had I been able to ignore the fact that the entire west wing (including the dining room) had been reduced to rubble, I might actually have liked the place. But this was still better than myexperience in a Kabul establishment, where a suicide bomber blew himself up in the entrance. Luckily I was out at the time, but the police would only let me inside that night. Most ofthe walls and windows of my room had been blasted away, but miraculously, the door 44 Sawubona November 20 l 7

As lhe Middle East Bureau Chiei for Russia Today, Jo'burg-born Paula Slier has had her fa ir share of ha ir-ra ising adventures. She shares first-hand encounters of her traveis off lhe beaten !rock.

TWITTER: @PaulaSlier_RT


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Land of extremes


01 Swakopmund



is one of the best places in theworld to see flamingos. A Herero woman in tradit ional clothing. The hat is shaped to resemble cow horns. The jetty.

Previous spread:The desert may look barrren, but it supports a complex ecosytern.

riving from Walvis Bay Airport with nothing on either si de of the road but sand, I suddenly understand the term "living desert'; because I know that while the word "Namib" means vast and empty, this desert has a complex and vibrant ecosystem of creatures and plants. There is sandas far as the eye can see (it's a 700km stretch from Oranjemund to Swakopmund), and it's a beautiful landscape. The colours shift constantly. It's not as red as the desert in other paris of the country; this sand is golden with flecks of beige and swirls of caramel. The world's oldest desert, its coastal location means that coo! air from the west coast's Benguela current blows a thick fog across the sand up to 300 nights a year. Locais call this fog "the lifeblood of the desert" and it makes the Namib one of the most humid places in the world, despite it also being the driest. We take a detour into Walvis Bay, home to a thriving fishing industry anda port that closely rivais Durban in terms oftraffic. It serves as the key logistics hub into southern Africa's landlocked countries and I expect an 52 Sawubona November 2017

industrial area, but am pleasantly surprised. The town is remarkably clean, the streets wide and the houses modem and well-kept. The tide is exceptionally low today and the shallow waters are alive with flamingos, herons, pelicans and leais enjoying their lunch. This is one ofthe best places in the world to see flamingos. The lagoon is the perfect environment for these long-legged birds to feed and perform their ritualistic nuptial displays, before taking off in a blur of pink and white towards Etosha Pan, their choice of nesting and breeding location. We spot six boats on the water in front of the Yacht Club, their passengers watchingdolphins surfing the small waves. A group of tourists is ready to board a catamaran departing from Pelican Point for a cruise, while the aclive set grab kayaks for a leisurely paddle. We leave Walvis Bay and take the road towards Swakopmund, 35km away. As we near the town, I notice two seemingly endless rows of palm trees on either side of the road. I learn that a family planted them in memory of their son who died in a car accident on this road, and >


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of garnet sand and the salt roads, which can be traced back to the '40s, when heavy trucks carried salt blocks from the salt mines north ofthe town to Walvis Bay. Swakopmund, along with Sossusvlei and Etosha Pan, is one ofNamibia's key tourist hubs. Around 800 tourists pass through Swakop (as the locais call it) every day, but even so, it doesn't get quite the sarne levei of attention the other towns do and tends to attract "stopover" guests. "I felt that this little paradise was really hidden fro m the world;' saysXenia ofher new home, to which she relocated from Johannesburg four years ago. "Swakop's character is unique in that she is African in nature, but has very Eurocentric traits. When I first got here, I realised that media relating to the town was dated and simply didn't do it any justice. It's not really promoted as a destination and has become, over the years, merely a stopover between Sossusvlei and Etosha, which are the two main Namibian tourism cash cows. So I tookit upon myselfto share my photographs online at I Love Swakopmund [www.facebook. com/iloveswakopmund], while Georg provides interesting historical stories and background:' Xenia's idea has grown and in January 2017 she was part of the team who launched Destination Swakopmund, an inclusive platform to further market and brand it as the Namibian travei destination of choice. Swakop is a town of extreme landscapes, with the desert on its doorstep - literally - and the ocean marking the other boundary. We arrive on a Sunday and not many of the shops and restaurants in the town centre are open. The Mole, however, is buzzing. A historie site surrounded by the ocean on three sides ("mole'' means sea wall), it provides a typical seaside settingwith its pier, lighthouse, museum, >-

04 Thenew

Walvis Bay lnternational Airport opened in late 2016. 05 The lovely Strand Hotel.

SWAKOP IS A TOWN OF EXTREME LANDSCAPES, WITH THE DESERT ON ITS DOORSTEP - LITERALLY -AND THE OCEAN MARKING THE OTHER BO UNDARY they pay to water and maintain the trees. This memorial is a sobering reminder ofhow many lives are lost on Namibia's often dangerous roads each year and I'm relieved that we opted for an experienced transfer and nota self-drive. Our driver is Georg Erb, who has lived in Swakopmund ali his life. A sought-after tour guide dueto his impressive knowledge ofthe area and its history, he speaks fondly of the town and passionately about the desert. "I was lucky to be brought up in nature. Rather than chairs and tables, I preferred to be surrounded by vast skies, to be on the ground among trees and in caves. From at least since my great-grandparents' arrival here 120 years ago, a great and vivid curiosity about ali things natural has been running in my familY,' he says. Keen to share their knowledge and introduce us to other passionate locais, Georg and his wife Xenia have generously offered their time to help us explore their town. Georg runs his successful Swakop Tour Company, but takes us on an unplanned tour, regaling us with stories about the shipwrecks along the notoriously treacherous coastline, the 200m-deep canyons that are found inland, the purple hues 54 Sawubona November 20 l 7

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ice-cream par lour, bars and cafés. The modem Strand Hotel, which opened in 2015 (and was recently awarded the Best Hotel Development in the 2017 Africa Property Investment Awards, for its innovative design and outstanding achievements in services), has undoubtedly added a new social element to the Mole. With its three trendy restaurants - Ocean Cellar, Farmhouse Deli and Brewer & Butcher (home to the Swakopmund BrewingCompany, which brews according to the strict Reinheitsgebot, or German purity law) - all with sea views and outdoor seating areas, i t's a huge attractio n for those in search of foo d with a view. After a delicious meal of seafood and sushi, washed down with a cold local beer at Ocean Cellar, we drag ourselves away from the buzzof the waterfront to check into our hotel. Our accommodation for the next two nights is Desert Breeze, a funky, villa-style lodge perched atop a marble ridge overlooking a sea of dunes. The brightly painted luxury chalets have spacious rooms, each with a fireplace and deck and large basalt sculptures standing guard. I sleep with my curtains o pen, hoping to enjoy the sunrise from my bed, but instead wake to find the dunes have been swallowed by a silvery mist. By the time I have my caffeine fix, the sun is peeping through and we take a walk over the dunes, which are criss-cro ssed with tiny spo or from no ctumal vi si tors. These dunes are a source of en tertainm en t for many an adventurer. And Swakop, which is considered Namibia's adventure capital, has no shortage of activities, including quad-biking, fat-wheel biking, walking desert tours, hiking, carne! rides, sandboarding, kayaking, fishing and skydiving.

Seventy kilometres down the drag is the coastal town of Henties Bay. With only 15 000 permanent residents, it's a quiet spot during the year, but come the holiday season, the surfers and fishermen descend in vast numbers. It's this ebb and flow, these contrasts, that stand out for me: the beautiful beaches framed by wild seas, the harsh ness of the desert j uxta posed by the fragili ty of its ecosystem and the chilled seaside lifestyle supporting an industry of extreme adventure sports.

ACTIONATTRACTIONS D Swakop Tour Company: D Living Desert Tours: D Sandwich Harbour Tour: D Desert Explorers: D The Dome Indoor Sport Centre and Conference Centre:

SHOPPING D Pop into the Ivanoff-Erb Gallery/Swakop Tour Companyat the BonusMarktPlatz on the comer ofSam Nujom a and N ataniel Maxuilili Streets for h igh-quality prints and to book your private photo tours and excursions. D For semi-precious stones and jewellery, visit the Kristall Galerie on the comer of Gamison and Bahnhof Streets. D The Cosdef Arts & Craft Centre (comer of Airport Road and Sam Nujoma Avenue) offers art and craft products from Community Skills Development Centres. It also has a restaurant and fine arts gallery. >


Our luxury villas play host to unobstructed views over the confluence of the Chobe and the Zambezi Rivers, a paradise 50 000 elephants call home. After a day oF sightseeing and wildliFe excursions, come home to luxurious comfort and an intimate hosting experience

Central Reservalbns: +264 61 431 8002 • looge Direcl +264 66 253 é/J2 • www.chob<


MY NAMIBIA "Tourism in Namibia has taken a turn for lhe better. ln 2016 and 2017, Windhoek's Hosea Kutako lnternational Airport experienced a significant increase in passenger numbers and lhe las! few years have seen growth in adventure tourism . "Camping is my new passion. The thrill of planning the route, packing and touring our country has become my world. My most recent escape was a road trip to Lüderitz. Passing Tses, lhe historie volcano near Berseba, 1was reminded of how lhe passing of many mill ions of years are evident in th is landscape. The wil d horses roam ing in lhe desert were a memorable sight, although the wind was howling, so we had to keep our mouths closed. lt was a true Lüderitz welcome! "The town offers good accommodation and the developing waterfront shows much promise. Late.night beach walks are safe and balmy. The nearby historical ghost town of Kolmanskop is a must-see, as is Diaz Point. Take the lime to stop ai Helmeringhausen, Maltahohe and Bloukrans if you follow this route" -Juanifa Klassen, SAA Country

07 TheSwakopmund Brewing Company at Brewer& Butcher. 08 Desert Breeze. 09 Quadbiking on th e dunes.

Manager: Namibia

O The Brauhaus Arcade (next to Swakopmund Hotel) has a collection of specialist shops selling handmade leatherwork, art, crafts and textiles. O Platz Am Meer (14 Starfish Road) is the only shopping complex in Swakopmund.

EATSAND DRINKS O For great seafood: The Tug Restaurant (www.the-tug. com), The Jetty 1905( and The Wreck ( O For sundowners: Rooftop Terrace at Hotel Zum Kaiser ( and Sky Bar at Bay View Resort (Langstrand). O O n the waterfront: Ocean Cellar and Farm House Deli (, Strand Café ( and The Lighthouse (tel: 064400 894). O Craft beer and hearty meals: Brewer & Butcher ( O For authentic German fare: Bistro Zum Kaiser, 58 Sawubona November 20 l 7

Brauhaus ( and Hansa Hotel ( a Coffee and German-style confectíonery are served at Café Anton (, Café Treff Punkt (te!: 064 402 034) and Raith's Gourmet and Gelateria in Tobias Hainyeko Street. O For relaxed café culture: Chill out at Bojo's Café (te!: +264 64 400 774) or Slow Town Coffee Roasters (

WHERE TO STAY O Desert Breeze: O Strand Hotel: O Atlantic Vílla: O Henties Bay Golf and Lífestyle Estate: www.facebook. com/hentiesbaygolfestate/ 0 Bay Víew Resort: O Bon Hotel Swakopmund: swakopmund O Namíbia WíldlífeResorts: ~



This is not a brick This is the beginning of hope. The promise of shelter, warmth and safety. This is your chance to contribute to a better Namíbia.

The Standard Bank Buy-a-Brick initiative contributes funds to the Shack Dwellers Federation of Namibia in order to provide brick homes for thousands of low- to no-income Namibians, and erase shacks from the country. You can dona te with just N$5. Senda Direct Deposit to Standard Bank Buy a Brick. Acc. No.: 60001469613.

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Standard Bank Moving Forward™ /

The Standard Bank Buy-A-Brick Project Standard Bank recognises the importance of Corporate Social lnvestment (CSI) as a mechanism to support the socio-economic upliftment of communities within Namibia. We strive through our CSI initiatives to be relevant to the communities in which we operate, whilst also contributing towards national developmental objectives. With an unemployment rate of 28 percent. it is estimated that there are currently dose to 500 000 Namibians living in shacks in informal settlements throughout the country. This has become a growing challenge, as the drive for rural-urban migration increases on a daily basis . The Standard Bank 'Buy-a-Brick' initiative was successfully launched by Her Excellency, Madam Monica Geingos, First Lady of the Republic of Namibia, and our Chief Executive Mr. Vetumbuavi Mungunda, in the Capital on the 13th of October 2015 . ln line with one of our CSI pillars, 'community upliftment', the Standard Bank Buy-a-Brick initiative is aimed at addressing the unavailability of housing for low- or no-income groups throughout Namibia. The project is for the benefit of the Shack Dwellers Federation of Namibia and its members, whose main objective is to improve the living conditions of poor people living in shacks, rented rooms or without any shelter at all, with a focus on women 's participation . lt is a project which will run annually between 1 October and 28 February for as longas the need for housing amongst this income group persists. The Shack Dwellers Federation is a non-profit organisation whose vision is executed through a savings scheme model. To qualify for a loan, a member has to save through regular savings 5% of their loan amount. The monthly interest is 0.5% and insurance is in place for life, as well as for the lifetime of the building structure. By June 2015 , there were 630 savings groups in Namibia organized across all the regions and local authorities in Namibia.

Loans are approved by the savings group themselves, looking at, amongst other crit eria: regular savings (5% required savings (through a regular process of saving) as advance payment towards t he loans) an d participation in meetings, exchanges and act ivities of the Federation and the group. As at December 2014, a tota l of 3,810 houses were successfully completed by the Federation. As a result of funding limitations , t he Federat ion can only build between 300 and 400 houses per year. This is not sufficient to meet the housi ng demand for low- or no-income groups in Nam ibia , and as a result t he Federation has decided to increase the number of houses built per year to at least 1.000. The Standard Bank Buy-a-Brick cam paign ai ms at mobilising t he private sector as we ll as corporates to raise t he necessary fundi ng t o help the Shack Dwell ers Federation achieve this ta rget. Through the Buy-a -Bri ck project. Standard Ban k is selling token bricks in the form of erasers to corporates and members of the publi c t hroughout Namibia ata mini mal cost of N$5 per brick . Token bricks are available throughout our branch networ k nationwide. Contributions can be m ade t hrough Direct Deposits to the fo llowing account n umber: Standard Bank Buy a Brick, 60001469613. During the inaugural year, Standard Bank raised and handed over a total of N$1.4 milli on to t he Federation, which culminated in t he const ructi on of 44 new brick houses for the low- and no-i ncome residents of Rehoboth in 2016. The 2017 fundraising has just been concluded, with an amount of approximately N$2 million raised, representing a funding increase of 43% . With these proceeds, 54 new houses will be bu ilt in Otjinene (Omaheke region), Berseba (Karas region), Havana (Khomas region) and Okahandja Park (Khomas region). Donate to Buy-a-Brick today and make a difference. Because everyone deserves a decent place they can call home.




Anything but ordinary This month, SAA celebrates 60 years of flying to Perth, the capital of Western Australia. Resiclent Stephen Scourfield takes us on a tour of this vibrant, energetic anel often-overlookecl city PHOTOGRAPHS: STEPHEN SCOURFIELD

GETTING THER.E SM flies direct to Perth seven days a week. Vislt:

p Ri p O R T

01 62 Sawvbona November 20 l 7




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03 A boab tree overlooks

Dominion League and hip dining at Clarences, both in Beaufort Street, and tapas at Andaluz in Howard Street. The new Perth Stadium, dueto open earlynext year, will seat 60 000 and is designed for world-class RugbyUnion and football viewing. This is no longer the face of a remote, isolated city.

the Swan River, with the city of Perth in the background. 04 Classic Aussie thongs for sale. 05 A colourful display of local flora. 06 Kings Park and Botanic Garden is popular with locais and tourists alike.

SUNANDSAND Visitors to Perth consistently comment on one thing first: the beautiful blue dome of sky. This is a city with a Mediterranean climate, where you'll see the sun for 265 days a year. And there's no better way to enjoy it than by exploring Kings Park& Botanic Garden (www.bgpa.!kings-park), and everyyear more than six million people do just that. Actually, make that six million and one, because today I'm strolling through the Botanic Garden's compact and curated exhibition ofWestern Australian flora and fauna. This garden the heart of the city - serves as a tasting pia te of the state's 12 000 varieties of plants. The flowers ofred and green kangaroo paws look exactly like what they're named after. A wattlebird flies in, perches on the sturdy stem, feeds on nectar and hops off again, the top of its head now dusted with a tiny pollen skullcap.


There's also a 750-year-old boab tree brought 3 200km from the Kimberley (WA's northernmost region), a treetop-level walkway offering great city views and free, daily guided walks. From the walkway, I lookdown on the city, set against the river. The Bell Tower, which stands proud, is home to the Swan Bells, which rang for nearly 300 years at St Martin-in-the-Fields church in Trafalgar Square, London. They tolled for England's victory over the Spanish Armada in 1588 and for the homecoming of Captain James Cook after his voyage of discovery in 1771, before being gifted to Western Australia to mark its bicentenaryin 1988. The Swan River is unusual for its sandy beaches, and there are plenty of places to simply sit on a rug in the shade of the trees - perhaps at Peppermint Grove, Point Walter or down on the Nedlands foreshore. The still, mirror-like body ofwater is mesmerising. Suddenly >


a large breath of air seems to blow through the water, theres the slightest splash and I see dolphins. They love this spot and from the bank I watch them fish - three adults with a calfin tow. They round up fish, driving them towards a sandban k before cutting through them with a flick of their tail fins - breakfast on the run. Opposite, at Alfred Cove, black swans honk like vintage cars, dipping to feed on weeds. The river is named for them and theyve been well cared for in order to grow their numbers in recent years. In the wide, grassy parks off Mil! Point Road, South Perth, I look across the wide waist of the river to the city beyond. I could hire a bicycle to circumnavigate the river or rent a small catamaran to sail its waters. Instead, I head to the beach at Cottesloe, sit on the golden sand and swim in the chilly, clean ocean - protected from the swell by the sea wall - before heading out to its famous marker buoy. Teenage boys in bright boardshorts shimmy up the buoy and jump otf, shouting and shiacking (Aussie-speak for mucking around). Girls swim past in a shoal, pretending to ignore them, but still casting glances in their direction. Up on Marine Terrace, you can buy ice-creams from little stalls, cold beers in the pubs and sarongs and Aussie thongs (flip-flops) hang in the beach-side shops. Further up the coast you'll find City Beach, Floreal. A $100 million foreshore redevelopment is underway at Scarborough Beach. Dueto be completed earlynext year, there will be a beachside swimming pool, new cafĂŠs and restaurants and improved public transpor!. Sandy-footed, I take a walk and enjoy the benevolent, coolingsummer breeze, otherwise known as the Fremantle Doctor, coming off the ocean. A flywire door slaps shut as the breeze arrives - predictably punctual - at midday. In the shade, a dog lifts its head and pricks up his ears as the vague scent of salty air is drawn in. The Fremantle Doctor is a regular and welcome caller in Perth and Fremantle in summer. Fremantle, the port city at the end of the Swan River, a 20km or 28-minute train ride from the centre of Perth, has a unique culture, heavily influenced by

07 A herĂźage building in CI ~f Street, Fremantle. 08 A classic gaff-rigged yacht under sa il on lhe Swan River. 09 The Swan Bells are located in Perth's iconic Bell Tower.

Mediterranean fishermen from Italy, Sicily and the Aeolian Islands who settled here. Heritage buildings were restored and the city got a new lease on life when the America's Cup defence was sailed in thewaters offFremantle in 1987. Today, charm, optimism anda certain "Fremantle altitude'' go hand-in-hand. The 150 stalls ofFremantle Market, which traces its roots back to 1897, sell tie-dye T-shirts, fresh food and local produce, while buskers and live music create a lively atmosphere. I sit with a cappuccino and watch the passers-by; Fremantle's perfect for this.

WHERE TO STAY The recentlyrenovated 4Vz-star Esplanade Hotel Fremantle by Rydges ( sits between the coffee strip and the harbour. The rooms, most with balconies, are spacious, overlooking parkland or the hotel's pool. It combines its traditional past with contem porary standards. But back on St George's Terrace in Perth, the Como The Treasury hotel ( perth) surely set the benchmarkfor this trend. With 48 elegant rooms, this superb hotel has been restored beautifully. Formerly the Sta te Government Treasury, it's home to Wildflower, which is undoubtedly Perth's best fine dining restaurant. If you're looking for luxe accommodation, the new, glittering star of the city is Crown Perth, particularly the Crown Towers ( > 66 Sawubona November 20 l 7



The rooms and suites offer views across the river to the city, and the hotel prides itself on its worldclass service. With the fali in room prices, there's also plenty of mid-range accommodation (A$100-A$200 a night) to choose from, with many top-quality hotels now nudging into the middle price range. Centrally located in Mill Street, Parmelia Hilton Perth ( has refurbished rooms and you can enjoy the great Adelphi Grill restaurant there.

THE AUSTRALIA¡AFRICA CONNECTION The low ridge on the horizon beyond Perth is just one piece of evidence of the ancient conned ion between Austral ia and Africa. The Darling Scarp is the tear line where the two parted when the super-continent Pangaea started lo slowly fragment 170-180 million years ago. There are also botanical links. For example, the Proteaceae, a Gondwanan Iam ily of plants, is richly represented in both Western Austral ia and South Nrica's Cape Floral Region. Perth and Cape Town's climates are similar and both offer an outdoor lifestyle, beach culture and good wines.

68 Sawubona November 20 l 7

Fraser Suites Perth (http:!!perthfrasershospitality. com) on Adelaide Terrace offers contemporary styling and facilities and the independence ofbeing selfcontained, with kitchenettes in the rooms so you can make your own meals. The Nest on Newcastle (www. is modem, boutique and tucked away behind the Crow Bar and Restaurant in a heritage cottage that's more than 100 years old. Its 20 rooms have a homely feel, with mod touches such as pod coffee machines in the rooms. There's also a wide range ofbudget accommodation, with comfortable rooms that will sometimes only set you back j ust over A$100 a night. The Pensione Hotel Perth ( perth) in Pier Street has an on-site restaurant and bar, while the ideally located Ibis Perth ( in Murray Street offers an "all-you-can-eat" breakfast buffet. The three-star Sullivans Hotel (www.sullivans. is right on Kings Park's doorstep in Mounts Bay Road, and its least expensive rooms ali have king-size beds and chocolates appear on your pillow at night. There's a double heartbeat in Perth now: the tick of the natural from the abundant parks, rivers and beaches. And there's the faster tick of the modern metro with its new developments. The city oflight has taken on a bright new hue. â&#x20AC;˘ To find out more, and 'Q..

Stephen Scourfield is an author and Travei Editor

ofThe West Australian and Seven West Travei Oub, Seven West Media, based in Perth. His new book, Don't Forget lo Wrile, combines his fiction a nd non.fiction wriling and the scripts he performs with musicians and dancers.

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Not For Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18 Years.


LEFT: Mkulumadzi Lodge's reception area offers perfed views of lhe m ighty Shire River. 8ELOW:The elephants have right of way ai Majete Wildl ife Reserve.

OPPOSITE: A room wĂźh aviewat Mkulumadzi Lodge.

The charm and thrill 0 f Maiawi WORDS: PHAKM\A MBONM\BI

This landlockeĂĄ, compact country m south-eastern Alrica ollers a wealth ol attractions t's late at night in south-western Malawi. I'm on my way to my room at Mkulumadzi Lodge, which is within the Majete Wildlife Reserve, a pristine home to the Big Five and a host of other wildlife. These animais roam freely, even coming right up to guests' chalets which face the mightyShire River, on the eastern side of the reserve. Here you are truly immersed in nature. Lodge management assures our party that only harmless animais, such as sable antelopes, waterbuck and eland, are likely to be spotted in this part of the reserve, so there's no need to be nervous. But, as a city rat, fm a little rattled on this walk to my room, no more than 250m from the dining area. Porters, who are trained to handle any situation, can accompany visitors on request. On this night Tammy Rowland, wife of Reserve Manager Dave West brook, is my guide. Although hailing from the > 72 Sawubona November 20 l 7

JAMES CHIKAONDA, SAACOUNTRY MANAGER, MALAWI Whatdoyou enjoy most about your job? lt's fulfill ing to represent an a irl ine of outstand ing reputation in terms of service and safely standards. The positive feedback 1gel from customers day in and day out is priceless.

How many rimes does SAA fly to Malawi from

Johannesburg? SAA flies to Lilongwe, lhe capital, seven limes a week and to Blantyre three limes a week - Mondays, Wednesdays and Salurdays. FI ighls from both destinai ions lake just over two hours.

What advice can you give visitors to Malawi? Lake Malawi, often referred lo as God's Swimming Pool by som e because of its beauty and calm walers, is a must-see attraction. Malawi is also blessed with a number of breathtaking mountains, plateaus and nalional parks. 73


USA, she's at home at Majete. Then, with only a short distance togo on this winding path, the leaves under the bush suddenly rustle ominously. A wild animal! We stand still and listen. My heart skips a beat. ln the deathly silence, Rowland calmly shines a torch where the sound carne from. It's a waterbuck. Reliefl Management was right, after ali, about the harmless creatures. ln addition to a restaurant, a lounge, a terrace, a bar anda gift shop, Mkulumadzi Lodge, which is owned and managed by Robin Pope Safaris, has eight luxury chalets of different sizes; mine is spacious with a host of five-star bells and whistles, including a net around the bed to repel mosquitos. The shower extends from the room to the outside, but still offers privacy. You may also wish to soakin the well-proportioned bathtub near a glass wall that allows light to pour into the room while you enjoy the panoramic view. From an elevated porch, visitors can relax and listen to the gushing river or to the chorus ofhappy hippos at night. Guests may keep the tent doors that open to their porches open for the night,

but l keep mine tightlyzipped up. The following morning, without a guide, l walk the intimidating path back to the dining area for breakfast ata brisk pace, attentive to the faintest sounds and movements in the bush. Game drives and boat cruises are also available and can be arranged by the lodge's helpful staff.

THE WARM HEART OFAFRlCA Malawi, a sliver of a country bordered by Mozambique, Tanzania and Zambia, prides itself on offering thrilling bush experiences. For tourism operators, fencing offwildlife is out of the question because they know that it is we humans who are in the animais' space and not the other way around, so visitors need to take precautions at ali times. Malawi takes nature conservation seriously. Majete, for example, is a success story of conservation and regeneration. A few years ago, the reserve was devoid ofwildlife due to poaching, and deforestation was rife. Tourists stopped coming to the reserve and an invaluable income source was lost. ln

All tourism stakeholders agree that Malawi's brand essence is "rich in contrast, compact in size and big in hospitality". ABOVE: Kayaking off Mumbo lsland.

RIGHT: Boat ride in Liwonde National Park.

74 Sawubona November 20 l 7

referred to as "the warm heart of Africa''. Tourists feel at home the instant they land either in Lilongwe, the capital in the centre ofthe country, or Blantyre, the commercial capital to the south. That'swhen you first hear the melodious greeting "Muli bwanji?", meaning"How are you?" in Chichewa. No wonder tourism in Malawi is booming. ''.According to the 2015 national tourism repor!, Malawi received about 804 000 visitors;' says Isaac Katopola, a Director at the Department ofTourism. Ali this is good news for the economy. "The tourism sector generated MWK23 billion in 2015 and continues to create many job opportunities for Malawians, particularly in the rural areas where most of the key attractions are found;' says Katopola. What ali tourism stakeholders agree on is that Malawi's brand essence is "rich in contras!, compact in size and big in hospitality''.


2003, African Parks entered into a 25-year agreement with the Malawi Department of National Parks and Wildlife to rehabilitate Majete. Wildlifewas re-introduced. Today, the reserve teems with elephants, black rhinos, lions and other animais. A thriving Majete has created jobs for locais. A number of rangers have been recruited and nota single rhino or elephant has been poached since 2003. ln fact, the elephant population has grown so large that 520 elephants were relocated to Nkhotakota Wild Reserve, near Lake Malawi, earlier this year as part of an historie translocation initiative to boost wildlife at Nkhotakota. Malawi is divided into three regions south, central and north - each boasting its unique attractions. The country's topography is striking. Then there's Lake Malawi, a popular destination for waterbased activities such as kayaking, scuba diving, boat cruises, birdwatching or just lazing about on sandy beaches. The lake, the third largest in Africa, is shared with Mozambique and Tanzania, although

most ofit lies in Malawi. The country is blessed with sunshine for most of the year and the best ti me to visit is between April and November, outside the rainy season. By far Malawi's best tourist attraction is the uncommon warmth of its people, which is why the country is rightly

After Majete, our party heads to Huntingdon House, an old colonial house at Satemwa Tea Esta te, which is half-an-hour's drive from Blantyre. Estab lished in 1923 by Maclean Kay, a Scottish immigrant, the estate produces world-class tea and coffee. There is a sea of lush green, with the rolling tea plantations reminiscent ofSri Lankan plantations. Huntingdon House is the original residence of the estate. Today it offers luxury accommodation in its five spacious rooms called Mother's Room, Father's Room, The Nursery, Planters' Suite and The Chapei. I opt for Father's Room. We take our meals and drinks on a huge verandah. By appointment, visitors can tour the tea-making factory to learn about tea and co ffee prod uction. It's back to the bush the next day as we head to Mvuu Lodge and Camp at the Liwonde National Park. We stop for >

ABOVE:Tea picking at Satemwa Tea Estate, where Huntingdon House is situated.

RIGHT: Mvuu Lodge and Camp. 75


RIGHT: The view from the tent ai Mumbo lsland Lodge.

lunch at the Sunbird Ku Chawe on the rim of Zomba plateau, high above the city. Zomba is the old colonial capital and the architecture is distinctly British. Hours later, after crossing the Shire River by boat, we reach Mvuu Lodge and Camp. The banks of the river are right outside our rooms, where hippos lie submerged in the water and crocodiles Jaze in the sun, but theyare definitelynot asleep for they are aware of everything that's happeningaround them. At night elephants roam the premises freely - it's advisable to have a guide accompanyyou to your room at ali limes. The camp accommodates up to 36 guests while the upmarket lodge, a short distance

away right in the bush, has onlyeight rooms, accommodating only 16 visitors. Richard Chimwala, General Manager of Mvuu Lodge and Camp, says the camp is "ideal for larger groups and families, while the smaller lodge is more exclusive and ideal for couples seeking privacy''. ln the morning, we take a boat cruise during which we spot a variety ofwater animais and an assortment ofwildlife on the shore. But it seems that the best has been saved for last when we travei to Mumbo Island Lodge, part of the La ke Malawi National Park, a Unesco Heritage Site. Only lkm in diameter, the island is pristine. It can accommodate 14 guests in tastefully >

LEFT: Mumbo lsland Lodge is integrated into the rocky landscape.

EMPOWERING WOMEN ANO GIRLS Social aciivism to bring about socio.econom ic development is common in Malawi. Take Rebecca Gross, the founder of Student Driven Solutions, who provides financial literacy and business tra in ing to wom en and girls so that "they can be financially independent and learn to sove more, ensuring they become adive in the country's economy''. Gross, an American, founded Student Driven Solutions in 2015. "Fifty-three percent of Malawi's poorest women reported that their husband mainly makes decisions about how to spend the couple's earnings, and about her own healthcare," Gross says. "Only 17% of Malawian wom en have bank accounts and 10,7"/o have access to cred~. This lack of financial independence hinders a woman's ability to make her own life choices." Student Driven Solut ions, wh ich is based in Lilongwe and operates programmes in that city and Zomba, gives participants social challenges to solve, such as building of much-needed schools. So lar, Student Driven Solutions has graduated 263 participants and most of them now run their own successful businesses. One of the graduates is Rebecca Chikwangwala (22), who runs her own tailoring business in Lilongwe that employs three other people, thanks to the skills from Student Driven Solutions. "ln the future, 1wish to run a big garment produciion company using the skills 1gained," Chikwangwala says.

For donafions hllps// donate/ Contact 76 Sawubona November 20 l 7

B1g in Hosp1tality ln Malawi- one of Africa's most beautifu1and compact countrles-the sheer contrast of attractions is amazing. Not only that, but Malawi is famed for its hospitality and its people are some of the friendliest in the world.

Tourism House, off Convention Drive, City Centre Private Bag 326, Lilongwe 3, Malawi Tel: +265 1775499 Fax: +2651 770650 Email:

Malawi Consulate General 4 Dodge Street, Woodmead 2157 PO Box 3881, Rivonia 2128, Johannesburg Tel: +27 (0)11234 8577 /8 or +27 (0)11803 4919 Email:

36 John Street, Holborn, London WC1N 2AT Tel: +44 207 421 6010 Fax: +44 207 831 9273 Email:

LEFT: This Sunbird hotel takes luxury beach living to a whole new levei.

the waters around the island and the flora and fauna. We tryto offer a beach island retreat as well as a bush experience:' says Steven Roberts, Manager of the lodge. He also points out that the island is a mere two hours from Kamazu International Airport in Lilongwe, making it accessible to guests. At night we raid the well-stocked bar and socialise with other guests who swear that they wouldn't want to be anywhere else right now but in magicai Malawi. Fittingly, we spend our last day in the country at Sunbird Lilongwe - coming full circle - as we started our Malawi adventure at the Sunbird Mount Soche in Blantyre. Having been to two of their hotels in the space of a week, it's clear why this hotel chain, which has eight establishments throughout Malawi, is a market leader in the hospitality sector - whether for leisure or business travei. The service is warm and efficient and the rooms comfortable. Levie Nkunika, Group Sales & Marketing Manager, ascribes Sunbird's pre-eminence in the industry to a commitment to offering value for money experience. "Our hotels and resorts offer an unrivalled experience through personalised and engaging service:' he says. 'We offer excellent luxurious accommodation and unforgettable Malawian culinary experience that no other local hotel can match'.' lt.. decorated bamboo huts perched on boulders. The hammocks in front of each hut encourage guests to relaxas they gaze out at the vast lake surroundingthem. Mumbo is refreshingly devoid of modem conveniences. Bucket showers are the norm. There's no electricity and the charging of batteries for phones and cameras is done through solar power, and there's no cellular coverage. For doing its utmost to protect the environment, Mum bo Island has been voted one of the top 50 sustainable lodges in Africa. A day la ter, Blue Zebra Island Lodge on Nankoma Island bowls us over with its luxury and en-suite tented accommodation, friendly and efficient service and tranquillity. The lodge, which has been operating for five years, is rustic luxury. The island is ideal for indulging in various aquatic activities on Lake Malawi: scuba diving, kayaking, snorkelling and boat cru ises. You can also walk around this unspoilt paradise and marvel at the dazzling array ofbird life, including the fabled African fish eagle. "Blue Zebra is attractive because of the rare cichlid fish found in 78 Sawubona November 20 l 7

INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITIES The Department of Tourism in Malawi's Ministry of lndustry, Trade and Tourism is looking for inveslors to take up lhe following key projects where prel im inary assessments were done

1. Golden Saneis Resort, Cape Maclear, Mangochi District

2. Mountainous Resort on Mount Mulanje, Mulanje district

Plans are afoot to develop a unique upmarket resort ai Cape Maclear, within lhe Lake Malawi National Park on the southern tip of Lake Malawi. ln addition to a new airport, lhe Cape Maclear project comprises the conslrudion of a 100-room upmarket lodge that will include timeshare un its/ villas anda 150-room lavish hotel within Chembe Village. There will also be conference facilities, a sporting complex, a champion golf course, a quay, a museum and an undergroun d aquar ium. Plans also include the acquisilion of water sport equipment and lhe construdion of a theme park.

Malawi also plans to build a world-class tourism destination based on fantasy and adventure on Mount Mulanje, lhe country's highest mountain, 94km south of Blantyre. The projed involves clustering a variety of natural and man-made attractions, museums and otherfacil ities to provide visitors with an enriching experience, recreation and entertainment. There will be a cable car, luge track and sky rides, a spa and wellness centre, living museum slorytell ing, an eco-lodge and eco-adventure ad ivit ies and a variety of restaurants. Nearby tea and coffee plantations are addfons to the development.

3. Salima integrated resort, Salima District Situated on the shores of Lake Malawi, the project entails the conslrudion of two hotels, with a l 00-room capacily each. One hotel will be five-star and the other a m iddl e-range facil ity There will also be a l 500-seater internalional conference centre, sport ing complex, marina, entertainment com pi ex, golf course and an underground aquarium, wildl fo sanduary and casino. The projed is expeded to radically transform Salima, which is lOOkm from Lilongwe and is already a major transit town to the beaches of Lake Malawi 20km away.


Enjoy the Warm Heart of Africa Sunbird Hotels and Resorts, Malawi's leading hotel chain has eight hotels strategically located across the country. With modem facilities, first class restaurants, comfortable rooms, complimentary WIFI and multiple conference and banqueting facilities, Sunbird offers a widely diverse yet unique experience across its unique business and leisure hotels.



At the centre of the centre. Enjoy capital attention at Malawi's leading hotel.

At the heart of Malawrs business centre, mix business with pleasure in Blantyre's lead ing hotel


Enjoy the best of Discover the beauty íeel the pulseof lake shore life at and tranquillity Malawi's vibrant Malawi's leading of Lake Malawi at capital. Mixand sou thern lake shore Malawi'spremier minglewhere resort. beach side re9:lrt Lik>ngwe meets.




The ideal base to explore the natural beauty of Malawi's unspoilt Northern regon.

Experience wildlite attheonlyGame reserve to meet "lhe Big FÍl'eª in Malawi.

Enjoy the high life on the Zomba Plateau at Malawi's premier mountain resort

SPAIN LEFT: The perfecily located Belmond la Residencia. BELOW: Scooters are lhe ideal way to explore lhe town.

GETTING THERE SM flies direct to Frankfurt and Munich daily Connect to Spain with Star Alliance rnernber Lufthansa Visit

allorca, the largest of the Balearic Islands off the east coast ofSpain, is mostly rural, except for the capital Palma. An llkm drive from the airport whisked us past palm trees and windmills that still grind grain, into this marine metropolis. Sizzling sun, a vibrant nightlife, beautiful natural parks and more than 800 beaches attract many a package tourist. But the true allure of the island lies in the hidden gem of Deià - a creative haven on the north-west coast. A precipitous, winding road that would delight any adrenaline junkie took us from Palma past the pretty hamlet ofValldemossa, where Chopin once lived, to peaceful Deià, a village that attracts writers and composers, artists and aristocrats. Here, the heady scent of jasmine welcomed us to the Belmond La Residencia (, the heartbeat of the village. There's no way of determining where the hotel begins and ends. It's aesthetically integrated into the landscape of the Serra de Tramuntana mountains, but also - and more importantly - into the vibrant village life that centres around creative pastimes. Local artists paint on lawns, taking advantage ofthe clear light and beautiful landscape to capture arresting views. Breathtakingart, sculptures and antiques fill every nookand cranny ofthe ancient hotel buildings, with the work of celebrated Spanish artist Joan Mi ró, who spent the last years ofhis life in the village, most prominent. His iconic sculpture, Souvenir de la Tour Eiffel, was crafted in Mallorca in 1977, when Mi ró was 84. Some of his best work adds life to the popular Café Miró. Artist Alan Hydes and a local sculptor offer masterclasses, anda local writer and ceramicist are in residence. The hotel's magnificent buildings

82 Sawubona November 20 l 7

were expanded from a late 141ll-centurywatchtower and two manor houses - Son Canais and Son Moragues written records ofwhich date back from the 1611\ century. The buildings were first converted into a hotel in 1984 and authentically decorated in original Mallorcan style. EI Olivo, the hotel's celebrated restaurant, occupies what was once the Son Moragues olive press. We enjoyed a sublime dinner there, which showcased local produce. The setting provided a perfect backdrop for a man to drop to his knee and propose to his sweetheart, after which congratulations and Champagne were enjoyed by ali. Provenance forms a large part ofvillage life. Chef Guillermo Méndez, who hails from nearbySóller, visits the market daily, not only to hand-pick premium fruit and vegetables, but also to enjoy a coffee and chat with locais. Visitors come from far and wide for his succulent Sóller prawns, mouthwatering roast lamb, and legendary suckling pigwith sage and sobrassada (spicy pork sausage) sauce. >




There are 660 permanent residents in Deià, with numbers swelling substantially in-season, yet the village remains unspoilt by the influx of tourists.

We were too relaxed to make decisions, so we chose Méndeis legendary Mediterranean food and wine pairing option. The menu takes advantage ofthe hotel's 14ha of olive groves, which produce superlative extra virgin olive oil. The proprietors are valiantly restoring these groves, aided by the generosity of guests who can "adopt" an olive tree. Some of the trees' origins lie in Roman limes and severa! are around 500 years old gnarled, yet beautiful and the subject of many a painting. Another popular subject is Cala Deià. Not heeding the advice to wear sensible shoes, we decided that the best way to work off our constant forays into the flavourful local cuisine was to take a 20-minute walk down the hill to this rocky cove. It's small, with old ramps for fishingvessels and anchorage for modem yachts, and its two rustic and relaxed restaurants serve simple, local fare. We were after sangria. The C'an Patro March offers more sophisticated dining than C'an Luc, and is a great spot for people-watching ora relaxed game of chess. Locais speak Catalàn, Castilian and Mallorqul, and it was here that the value oflearning a few lines ofSpanish to get us to the front of the queue for a table was confirmed. After our downhill saunter in the midday heat, the delicious sangria hit just the right spot and fuelled our uphill trek back to the hotel in our entirely unsuitable flip-flops. The clima te and the presence of a few Michelin-starred chefs on the island make for fabulous food. Tapas, paella, ensai'madas (spiral pastries dusted with icing sugar), sobrassada, oranges and olives were the standouts for me. 84 Sawubona November 20 l 7

ABOVE:The small, rocky cove is lhe perfed spol lo sunbathe, swim and relax.

Traditional dishes, such as chicken stew made according to an age-old recipe, were embraced easily, but the tradition of eating lunch after l .30pm and dinner after 9pm took some gettingused to. We walked to the village morning market, bought a wicker basket and filled it with spectacular fresh produce and flavoured salts from Mallorca's Flor de Sal d'EsTrenc. There, hand-harvested salt dries in the Balearic sun, making it one of the world's purest sea salts. Visitors to the salt pans seidom leave without purchasing artisanal products developed by local Michelin-starred chef Marc Fosh. ln a flash I added his natural blackolive, Mediterranean and hibiscus salts to my basket. Stimulated pearls, wood items and ceramics, particularly the siurell, a claywhistle, are ali popular souvenirs. After listening to the early morning birdsong and savouring the fresh mountain air, I enthusiastically joined the three-hour village art walk, which took us into the homes oflocal artists - colourful characters who blend into the village, yet also stand out. The excursion was led by a vibrant young artist from Hungary - Manuella -who carne to Deià on holiday, fell in [ove with the lifestyle and never left. We wandered into humble abodes, where the artists regaled us with stories ofhow the locais unite in art and music, with home-owners like Andrew LloydWebber joining in when music is on the agenda. This is a community that works and plays together. Richard Branson owns a discreet home on the hill and, in recent years, musicians such as Mick Jagger, Mark Knopfler, Mike Oldfield and Caroline Corr have bought homes here. The local haunt, a café and bar called Sa Ponda, is apparentlywhere big-name musicians pop in for a casual jamming session, but sadly none did so while we were there. Even so, it was a great place to meet the people who proudlycall this peasant village home. There are 660 permanent residents in Deià, with numbers swelling substantially in-season, yet the village remains unspoilt by the influx of tourists. Tranquillity prevails. British poet Robert Graves, who lived in Deià for 45 years, is buried in the local hilltop cemetery, with a sim pie headstone that says 'poeta'. His home, Ca 01.lluny, is now a museum that's open to the public. The island is famous for gin, wines from the Binissalem region and hierbas (herb liqueurs). With more than 70 wine producers on the island and lots ofwine to sample, the daily ritual of an afternoon siesta became the trademark of a magicai holiday. Warm and friendly locais on this intoxicating island focus on living well. Their relaxed mantra of"manana"(tomorrow) appeals to those who !ove food, art, music and taking it slow. It's no wonder that some visitors never leave. ~


THIS FESTIVE SEASON EXPLORE OUR BEAUTIFUL SCENERY AND MUCH MORE. Visit for affordable and exciting tourism packages.

J, _ I.,



On a recent visit, Phakama Mbonambi saw how the wine estafes in this region tap into their rich history anel artistry to offer singularly pleasing wines fter a long, hard year, you may be wondering where to goto unwind over the festive season. Robertson Valley - just two hours from Cape Town - is a fantastic option. There's plenty to do there and, as I discovered while spending three days there recently with friends, the valley produces a variety of sublime wines, of which the most impressive is Chardonnay. Robertson Valley lies on the famous Route 62, which meanders between Cape Town and Oudtshoorn, the Langkloof and Port Elizabeth, offering a shorter, more scenic alternative to the N2 highway. The towns of Ashton, Bonnievale, McGregor, Montagu and Robertson are nestled in the valley. With such a wide variety ofwonderful wine estales to choose from, where do you start? Here's how our trip unfolded ... Rooiberg Winery We started at Rooiberg Winery, situated on the R60 just outside Ro bertson. It's famous for its range of -award-winning creations, such as the Pinotage Reserve, Right: The famous Rooiberg Red Chair.

86 Sawubona November 20 l 7

Chardonnay Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Chenin Blanc, Alexk.ia Merlot Reserve, Shiraz Reserve and the award-winning Muscadel. We were treated to a wonderful food and wine pairing, and visitors can also enjoy freshly baked pastries and breads at the on-site Bodega de Vinho restaurant. Situated close to Rooiberg's entrance is a giant red chair - billed as Africa's biggest chair - onto which visitors can clim b (with the help of a ladder) to enjoy unparalled views of the area around the estale. Zandvliet Estate Next we trooped to Zandvliet Estale on the outskirts of the valley. It's known as the home of Shiraz, upholding a tradition going back to the 1870s, and has won numerous awards for this varietal. ln addition to Shiraz and Chardonnay, Zandvliet ais o produces white and red blends, RosĂŠ and Vintage Liqueur Wine that's made from Shiraz and is known on the farm as "very lekker wyn''. We sampled the wines in the comfort of the recently revamped and sumptuously decorated Kalkveld Lounge. The estale belongs to ANB Investments, owners of


the ClemenGold and Citrogold citrus brands - a huge producer of naartjies and clementines. Clementines are cultivated on the land and are added to a range of delightful, handcrafted products - gin, honey, marmalade and chocolate - to give them a wonderful citrus zing. Whether it's sampling Chardonnay with marmalade or trying a Shiraz with a chocolate or, perhaps, a Muscat with biscotti, pairing products with the right wine is a delightful exercise

Abo'lle: Excelsior Estale.

Right: Kibal i, from Windfall WineFarm.

Windfall Wine Farm La ter we headed to the boutique Windfall Wine Farm in the Agterkliphoogte Valley. The place is an absolute gem. The tasting room, set beyond a rolling lawn, is tastefully decorated and when we got there in the late afternoon, the estale was enveloped in stillness. Windfall produces small quantities ofCabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, Pino! Noir, a red blend, a MĂŠthode Cap Classique and a sparkling wine from Chardonnay grapes (Blanc de Blanc), as well as a brandy called The Hunter. We did another wine tasting and food pairing, this time with a platter of cold meats, cheeses, crackers and an assortment of fruit. Property developer Robert Alexander owns the farm and Ko bus van der Merwe is the winemaker. Ali

the estales wines are superbly smooth and refined, pairing well with food. Every sip tells you that you're drinking a special boutique wine. By the time we arrived at the Four Cousins Restaurant for dinner, the wine was happily coursing through my veins and, by the lime I went to bed I was thoroughly exhausted, but also entirely relaxed. Excelsior Wine Esta te Breakfast at Graze at Excelsior Wine Estale owned by the De Wet family since 1870 -was followed -by a tour of the farm, where three categories of wine Reserve Range, Classic Range and Purebred Range - are produced. Not only can you sample the various blends, but you can also create your own red blend, then bottle and label it in the tasting room beside the farm's dam. It's a simple and rewarding exercise and a guide is always on hand to help. Weltevrede Estale Our next stop was Weltevrede Esta te in Bonnievale, which has been in the hands of the Jonker family for four generations, since 1912. In a candlelit underground tasting cellar built a century ago, we sampled a range of the estate'swines: the Weltevrede 1912 Chardonnay, the Weltevrede 1912 ,... 87

WESTERN CAPE Left: Jan Harmsgat Country House.

Below: Weltevrede Estate's underground cellars.

ltwas timeto moveon to Esona, asmallboutique wine estate nestled beside the Breede River, wherewine-makingis an almost sacred activity. Cabernet Sauvignon, a MĂŠthode Cape Classique called Entheos Chardonnay-Pinot Noir and Bedrock Black Syrah, as well as two heritage wines (Oupa se Wyn and Ouma se Wyn) that were created in honour of the Jonkers' ancestors. The esta te excels at Chardonnaydue to the calcareous soils and shale-rockslopes between Bonnievale and Robertson. With its pale golden colour and intense flavours of ripe lemons and dried mango with a chalky finish, the Weltevrede 1912 Chardonnay was definitely a win ner for me. "Weltevrede': an Afrikaans word meaning "well satisfied'; summed up our feelings as we trooped out of the underground darkness into the glorious sunshine, readyto sample yet another jewel somewhere else in the valley. Esona Boutique Wines It was time to move on to Esona, a small boutique wine

esta te nestled beside the Breede River, where winemaking is an almost sacred activity. Run by husband-and-wife team Rowan and Caryl Beattie, the estate produces small batches of delectable wine from its single vineyard. The esta te began operating in 2004 and its first bottle 88 Sawubona November 20 l 7

hit the market in 2010. The Beatties haven't looked back, delightingwine lovers with their delectable wines. A small team, which knows every vine through their hand-picking ofthe grapes, maintains the farm. An old cellar has been converted into a tasting venue where we did a Taste the Difference pairing that included two vintages ofSauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Shiraz with comparisons between Joker glasses and Riedel grapespecific glasses, paired with fruit preserves and chocolates. Even the background music was paired with each cultivar. The estate's range includes Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Shiraz and Pinot No ir Blanc de Noir. "Esona'; a isiXhosa word meaning "the very one" - is a perfect description of the vintages made with such dedication and !ove. Upstairs, on a deck surrounded by vineyards and overlooking the river, we sampled cheeses, breads and fruit at Caryl's Deli. Jan Harmsgat Country House (JHG) Our journey took us to Jan Harmsgat Country House at the foothills of the Langeberg Mountain, just off the R62 to Swellendam. This historie Cape Dutch farmstead is famous for its wines created from single blocks of the vineyards, which, according to Mitch Boy, head ofwine at Jan Harmsgat, means "the wines are of a higher quality because smaller volumes are produced, allowingyou to track each bottle ofwine back to the vineyard it carne from''. >



ce you were precious in My sight, You have been honored, And I have loved you••• 11(tsaiah 43:4}


To give the wine its dynamic flavour, JHG uses spontaneous fermentation and no enzymes in the vinification process, which may cause sediment to occur in some of the bottles. Par from being a pro blem, this is a sign of authenticity. The estate's signature wine is the Pinotage. Other equally stunningvarietals are Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Founded in 1723, Jan Harmsgat CountryHouse epitomises country luxury. Whether it's breakfast or dinner, ali the produce served at the Amy Restaurant is sourced from the esta te. ln addition to exploring the delightful garden or taking a dip in the pool, JHG visitors can packa picnic basket and relax or reada book under the pecan trees. The day of departure eventually arrived. We were a little sad to leave the valley, but, truth be told, never before had l consumed so much wine in such a -short period. l feared a phuza facet After a delicious, cold country breakfast at JHG - the pomegranate juice being a standout - we took a tour of the vineyards in a 4x4. Severa] hours later we packed and began our journey home, stopping briefly on the way at Van Loveren Family Vineyards and Four Cousins for yet more wine tasting. ln the end my poor tastebuds refused any more wine and l opted for a 12-year-old blended Scotch from the Four Cousins empire, but this nectar, we were told, is made by a fifth cousin in and ~ Right: @Four Cousins' styl ish eatery is well worth avisit.

Abo"W right: Mira Weiner,

owner of Hot Oven Marketing, one of Robertson Vai ley's most passional e champions.

90 Sawubona November 20 l 7

EVEN MORE REASONS TO VISIT Mira Weiner, owner of Hot Oven Marketing, a boutique PR and destination marketing agency for travei, tourisrn and wine in South Africa, has been a resident of Robertson Valley for rnany years. She knows lhe superb hospitality of the Robertson Valley all too well.

Why should wine¡lovers come to Robertson Valley? The Roberlson Valley offers incredible country hospitality and the stories of generations of winernakers provide for an authenlic and personal experience. Many of lhe boutique Wine farrns are run by lhe owners and winernakers thernselves, so you gel to connect with people behind the brands. When's the best time to visit the area? The valley is an incredible region to visit ali year round, as each season has a unique charrn and beauty.

How can those who can't visit the farms buy their wines? Wines can be purchased online frorn rnany of the wine farrns or frorn two wine shops in the area - La Verne Wine Boutique in Voortrekker Street in Robertson, which stocks wines at cellar prices, as well as a wine shop in Ashton called Platforrn62, which also stocks arts and crafts, jarns, preserves, wines and brandies frorn the valley

Twitter/lnslagram - @LangebergValley Twitter -@HOT_ OVEN lnslogram -@hotovenmarkeling

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BUSINESS AFRICAN TOURISM AT A GLANCE Tourists, both international and regional, continue to flock to key sub-Saharan tourism markets tthe recent 41 ~ Annual World Tourism Conference in Kigali, Rwanda, Euromonítor International revealed the key trends shaping travel and tourism on the continent. New data shows that arrivals to Africa grew by 6,5% in 2017 to reach 18,5 million, up from 16,3 million in 2012. Key markets, such as South Africa, Kenya, Nigeria, Moz.ambique, Cameroon, Mauritius and Tanzanía accounted for 70% ofinternational trips to the sub-Saharan region.


DRIVING GROWTH This growth can be attributed to increasing interaction between various travel industry players and digital integration via platforms such as social media, metasearch engines and the penetration of online travel agents. Other drivers include a growing short-term rental market, luxury travel, níche ô tourism, Meetings, Incentives, ;:' Conferences, Exhibitions ~ (MICE) and an increasing io focus on domestic tourism. ;::: "Many countries are moving ~ away from promotíng Africa :2 as only a traditional safari 8 destination, exploring other níche categories such as beach and

~ medical tourism. The travei and tourism market continues to

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introduce products that suit different types oftravellers, accounting for strong growth in major cities across sub-Saharan Africa," says Euromonítor Research Analyst Christy Tawií. Arrivals are expected to see continued growth. This will be driven by increased interest from overseas visitors dueto more competitive rates than other destinations with a similar offering. Aggressive marketing campaigns and the introduction ofbetter direct flight routes to and from major overseas markets is also expected to boost arrival figures, with strong growth predicted for key economies such as SA and Nigeria




0 Domesric: trips The number of domestic trips in Africa increased ~ by 8% in 2017 to reach over 40 million. Despitethe lack of a "travel S culture" among Africans, who generally perceive travel to be non~ essential and unaffordable, and because local tourísts are often

considered less important than international visitors, domestic tourism is gaining traction. Mulri-c:hannel approac:hes

Digital migration is transforming the tourism landscape in terms of bookings, customer service and consumer behaviour. Hotels, airlines and car rental companies are using social media, affiliate programmes and metasearch en gines to engage consumers and increase traffic to their sites. Short-term rentals booming

Short-term rentals are estimated to have recorded a 12% increase in online value this year. A growing sharing ec:onomy

The entry of peer-to-peer brands such as Uber and Airbnb is changing the competitive landscape in their respective sectors. SA is the largest market in Africa for brands such as Airbnb. This trend is expected to intensify competition as more travellers seek cheaper accommodation options. Comperition in the air ln the region, airlines led travel sales, which generated more than $7 billion in 2017. ln an effort to remain competitive, many airlines are increasing capacity on popular routes such as Cape Town and Johannesburg, intensifying p rice competition. Expansion and development of luxury resorts and hotels H otels led value sales, accounting for 45% of overall lod ging value sales. West Africa has traditionally represented more than half the total and is still the largest single region today. Southern Africa has increased in importance. Luxury travei The travel market is increasingly looking to cater to luxury travellers' needs by offering world- class chartered airline services, private yachts , luxury spas, safari camps and lodges. Luxury shopping is another major driver attracting wealthy tourists to countries like South Africa. MICE The MICE sector is boosted by growth in business traveL More than 30 000 million business trips were t aken in 2017. Conference facilities are being built in major cities such as Nairobi, Abuja, Lagos, Cape TownandJdburg. Nic:he tourism The medical tourism market - particularly for plastic surgery - is growing in countries like South Africa, thanks to our stateof-the-art medical facilities. 'Q.. 95


veryone in the industry will tell new collectors that your purchases should be based on your heart and gut, which is why it's vital to buy what you love. An artwork that provokes an emotional reaction will bring rewards for years, endlessly revealing new depths. They will, however, also advise you to make sure your money is well spent. This is achieved by getting to know as much as possible about the artists whose work stirs you, even getting to know them personally. "Context matters:· says keen art collector Ravi Naidoo, co-founder and Managing Director ofDesign Indaba, South Africàs annual showcase ofthe finest creative minds. "All too often people have only a mercantile relationship with the art they buy. I'm interested in the back story. Culture and art play such a big role in our society, and artists are socially conscientised, so I like to get to know them, spend time with them in their studios and buy their work on that basis. My art collection is deeply personal - based on relationships - and I only buy the work of artists I like. They have to pass the mensch test." Naidoo acquired his first piece of art over two decades ago and now has an extensive collection in both his home and office - all professionally framed and lit, and protected by blinds from any light that might damage them. "I went from supporting youngsters at their Masters graduation shows to collecting the work of artists I've hosted at Design


Indaba over the years:· he says. Charity auctions - like Art Angels, the annual sale at the luxury Bantry Bay guest villa Ellerman House - are good places to source quality, affordable art, as are endof-year exhibitions at universities, colleges and art schools. Director ofthe Irma Stern Gallery, Christopher Peter, says: "UCT's Michaelis undergraduate show is a bun fight of dealers and people panting to buy. To acquire the art of good young artists before their prices rocket, get in at the end of [their] second year. Bytheir fourth year, many Michaelis students' work has already been snapped up by the art institutions. Early work is sometimes better than anything that follows, because it's when the artists are at an intense and highly charged time in their lives. "Regarding resale investment, often it takes decades before you see a profit. Art investment is a minefield, only for those with moneyto burn or frustrated dealers. Plus, it's hard to let go ofbeauty. But if you happen to find something really reasonably priced, which you know has an assured market and you don't mind parting with it, wonderful! Release it into the world and grab the money. "The mistake new collectors make is buying things other people have told them to, without really knowing what they like or having the courage to own up to what gives them joy. To thine own selfbe true! Don't be governed byprice (high or low) anel, above all, dorít be conned into buying a signature just because ifs cheap:' Mark Read of the Everard Read Gallery

in Johannesburg says the golden rule is t o build up knowled ge about the sort of art you'd like to collect: "Great collections are put together by people who have a feel for wh at they're doing, not people whdve just thrown it together. It's a journey and the collecting part should be fim We deal w ith a lot of young, st art ing-out collectors who are trying t o put together something meaningful. If they like a painting and can't p ay for the wh ole thing immediat ely, we let them pay in inst alments. And we're willing t o exchange artworks. If someone feels they've outgrown a piece, or they don't like it as much as they thought they d id, they bring it in. I certainly don't want t o think that people have paintings that they hate in their home! That's not what this is about:' Jochen Zeitz., whose iconic collection of African art is now in Cape Towrís new landmark art museum, the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art, says: "You need t o believe in what you buy. Research the artist. Talk to experts. Ultimately, you need to be emotionally and intellectually attached to what you would like to buy - not [buy it] just because somebody tells you this or that artist is great. It's your personal decision' Cape-based dealer Penny D obbie started collecting art 40 years ago. "Start slowly and find a kind art purveyor with good term s, who will allow you to pay in instalments. If you choose wisely, your money will grow while giving you enjoyment:' She also emphasises the importance of not stinting on framing: "Leave the >-





"One can gain more pleasure from a good¡quality work produced by a living, unknown artist than from a poor work by a deceased, but esta bl ished a rtist." artwork unframed until you can afford a frame that enhances it. A bad frame can kill a work, so consult someone you respect. The num ber one prize is when the artist decorates the frame and it becomes an integral part of the work~' A good place to get acquainted with whafs happening on the global contemporary art scene is the Royal Academy of Arts' Summer Exhibition in London. Held in June, July and August every year, ifs the world's largest opensubmission exhibition, with over 1 000 artworks in ali media. Art fairs anywhere are a good way to get started, says Alexia Walker of Walker Scott Art Advisory. They're an ideal place to chat to professionals - artists, gallerists, curators and other buyers - and to attend panei discussions to help you develop an eye and get a sense ofyour own tastes. Walker's

98 Sawubona November 20 l 7

business partner Fred Scott says that if you come across a piece you like and don't know anything about the artist, you should quiz the booth attendants. Establish whether the artist exhibits regularly and if there are essays or monograms on him or her. Walker believes collecting art is about telling the story of a ti me, a culture and a community. She quotes Nigerian Prince Yemisi Shyllon, one of Africa's most important collectors: "It should go beyond just collecting- it should go into the element of propagating the culture or the heritage and way oflife of the people'.' The Walker Scott Art Advisory offers a wide range of services to new and established corporate and private collectors. They will work out a collection strategy for you, research the art market and assist in both acquisition and disposal of art. The firm also audits and evaluates your

collection and can manage it, which includes documentation, maintenance, preservation and restoration, as well as framing, installation and shipping. "Success in investing in art requires more than owning a mediocre work by a famous artist:' says Scott. "It's a highly specialised field which requires a good understanding of art market trends. The risk in purchasing young unknown artists is lower, as your initial investment is not high. Buying artworks of a famous artist who has passed away may be expensive, but this artist's markets may be well established, minimisingyour investment risk. However, one can gain more pleasure from a good-quality work produced by a living, unknown artist than from a poor work by a deceased, but established artist. A further advantage when buying a living artisfs work is that you can meet and discuss their ideas and creative work'.' ~



Global Citizenship More and more wealthy South Africans are prepared to splurge to become citizens of other nations Demand for second citizenship among South Africans is at an all-time high since the advent of democracy, with a weakeconomy, unemployment and security and political uncertainty topping the list of triggers. Earlier this year, the country slid into a recession on the back of a falling GDP contribution by tourism and manufacturing, amongother sectors, despite an uptick in mining. While a turnaround was recorded in September, consumer confidence remains weakand pundits still speak of an uninspiring short- to medium-term picture. ln this gloomy environment, a growing number ofSAs wealthy are lookingto take up citizenship or residencyof other countries. One way to do this, which is popular with this cash-flush demographic, is via investment programmes, which can cost millions of rands. "Security trumps patriotism these days:' says Jacques Scherman, Vice-President of investment consultancy Arton Capital. "'lhe increase in the num ber of queries we receive daily is huge'.' He adds that it is legal for SouthAfricans to have dual nationality, as longas they apply for and are granted Retention ofSouth African Citizenship by Home Affairs prior to pursuing citizenship of another country. This can take up to six months to be processed. Those who fail to do this could lo se their South African citizenship. Regarding those who tum their backs on sunny SA, Scherman notes as a possible disadvantage the tough taskof starting afresh in a totally foreign environment. Gcobisa Gcaba -who was able to obtain US citizenship dueto her in-demand medical skills - says that as much as her new status as an American opens doors ali over the world, nostalgia keeps pulling her back to South Africa. "That's why I split my time between here and there. South Africa has a special place in my heart:' says this highly-skilled nurse and married mother, who commutes between Kentucky, USA and Richards Bay in KwaZulu-Natal, where she's involved in special medical projects. Saluchni Naidu, now a matron at a hospital in Gauteng after a two-year spell in Saudi Arabia, also cites homesickness as a challenge. "Going to work in Saudi was economically liberating as they pay well, but leaving home is not fun:' says Naidu, adding that she isn't considering foreign citizenship despite the advantages it offers. 'You have to leave South Africa for a while to better appreciate this country; many of us take it for granted'.' While emigrants may face personal struggles, the economies

they leave behind also take strain due to capital flight and brain drain. South Africa already has a crippling skills shortage and the exodus ofwealthy citizens and highly qualified professionals could exacerba te the situation. Tellingly, queries to immigration agency Integration Immigration, nearly trebled in the first half of 2017. Ali second citizenship agendes we contacted reported significantly greater interest than last year. Queries to Arton Capital's local office increased sixfold. While not every querytranslates into an application - dueto the huge costs or, perhaps, a change ofheart - observers equate the boom in interest in global citizenship to a vote of no confidence in SAs political and economic state.

SA already has a crippling skills shortage and the exodus of wealthy citizens and highly qualified professionals could exacerbate the situation.

100 Sawubona November 2017


SA is not the only country losing its citizenry. A similar surge was seen in the USA when Donald Trump became President and the UK when the Brexit vote was positive. "As we can see from events in the USA and the UK, economic and political instability is not just limited to countries we typically consider unstable or which have an unpredictable political make-up:' says Micha Emmett, CEO at London-based CS Global Partners, a second citizenship consultancy. Not only has Britain's upcoming exit from the European Union dulled that country's allure as a favoured destination, it has also made more Brits consider dual citizenship. Nearly 90% of the SOO Britons polled by CS Global Partners said they would be willing to invest in a second citizenship. ln the first half of2017, 100 000 Brits applied for Irish nationality- a 50% jump on the previous year. Emmett and Scherman point out that the route to economic citizenship involves either getting an extra passport outright or residency. The latter is valid for about five years. So do South Africans always leave the country upon scoring an extra passport? "It really depends on each person. Our clients are often peripatetic, so they'll have a couple ofhomes:' Emmett explains. Locais who do relocate overwhelmingly choose Australia, Canada and similar countries, where the standard ofliving, including life expectancy, is enviably high. Australia is the most popular destination outside Africa for emigrating South Africans, with 26% choosing togo Down Under in the 2000-2016 period, according to Business Tech. The UK was chosen by 25%, while 13,4% opted for the USA. New Zealand, Canada and Cuba also made the top 10 destinations.


THEDOWNSIDE Many nations don't otfer a direct path to citizenship and, instead, they usually sell residency to foreigners. Also known as a "golden visa''. residency will set you back €500 000 (or around R7 million) in property investment in Portugal. To the east, Cyprus requires a steep €2 million (almost R30 million) for residency, which is also extended to investors' families (including parents). Cash injection is a chief benefit for countries receiving applications for residency. Not everyone is in favour ofthe system, however. Using as an example the UK, which charges a princely sum ofR80 million for a three-year golden visa, The Guardian argues that such programmes "commodify national identity". ln addition, the paper laments that wealthy applicants are not subjected to sufficient security checks. Residency in Portugal, Spain, Cyprus and other European states that sell these visas enables investor pilgrims to gain instant access to the European Union and to enter more than 100 countries visa-free. Depending on where one settles in Europe, benefits could include free university education and healthcare across the continent. A golden visa is valid for only a few years, after which investors can apply for permanent citizenship, but there are no guarantees, even if ali conditions have been met. "This is why countries that otfer citizenship by investment programmes are more appealing to high-net-worth individuais and their families, who require immediate certainty. For example, via a direct investment into the Commonwealth of Dom inica - such as investing in approved real estate projects on the island -you and your family can gain citizenship, thus bypassing the need togo through the rigmarole of applying for permanent residency;' says Emmett. She adds that the move to gain additional passports often stems from a need to finda place in which to diversify asseis, and adds that in such cases, Portugal has always been a popular choice for South Africans. ln contras!, citizenship - a superior option to the golden visa - in the Caribbean or Comoros can be processed and approved within months, and involves markedly lower fees. This explains a growing demand for citizenship in highly-regarded Dominica, St Kitts & Nevis and Grenada (see boxbelow), but these are not yet top choices for SA emigrants.

South Africans are not alone in splurging on an emergency plan. Nigerians fleeing their country's domestic upheavals are also in the market for visas and additional citizenships, observes Scherman. Demand from North Africa and the Middle East spiked at the outset of the Arab Spring a few years ago, according to consultancy Henley & Partners. 'We cannot underestimate the future decisions our clients will make as political and economic scenarios unfold;' Emmett notes. These decisions are almost always made with a view to the future. "People are not necessarily deciding to invest in citizenship only for todaY:' \r...

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FAMILY TIES A typical troop of gorillas comprises 10-20 members: the dominant silverback, severa! females and their offspring. There were 12 gorillas in the Mukiza family we saw, including a number of hyperactive, super-cu te youngsters. The habituated family ignored us completely as we watched them eating, sleeping and then eating some more.

PENETRATING THE FOREST BRIDGING THE GAP Author AD Williams said: "When I look into the eyes of an animal, Ido not see an animal - I see a living being. I see a friend . I feel a sou!'.' This quote is never truer than when looking into the eyes of a mountain gorilla. Man's closest relatives after chimpanzees and bonobos, gorillas are a link between us and the animal kingdom. Looking into their eyes is a profound experience, which proved to me that ali creatures on earth are connected.

THE REMAINING DOMAIN Mountain gorillas are rare, incredible creatures that have adapted to the high-altitude, often cold rainforests. Once threatened and still extremely vulnerable, there are only 880 left in lhe world - ali in East Africa. This photo of Shane on Mount Sabyinyo in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, Uganda, shows some of the primates' territory outside Bwindi. On lhe right of the peaks is RwandĂ s Volcanoes National Park and on lhe left is Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. 106 Sawubona November 20 17

Our gorilla experience took place in Bwindi Impenetrable Fores! in Uganda. As its name suggests, the park is a heavily vegetated tropical rainforest. Groups of eight, plus a guide, hike for one to two hours through magnificent scenery to reach the gorillas' territory. As the wonder on my wife Tarryn's face suggests, the hike is an adventure in its own right.


BOISTEROUS BABIES Gorillas can live to around the age of 40 and generally start reproducing at the age of 10. The average gestation period is about eight-and-a-half months, which is notably similar to that of humans. These youngsters - as highly energetic as their human counterparts romped around and played for the entire time we watched them.

'4f THE MIGHTY VEGETARIAN DIET Anyone who thinks vegetarianism can't lead to bulk needs to take a look at mountain gorillas, which are almost solelyvegetarian. Silverbacks can reach around 200kg, according to the World Wildlife Foundation. As we saw, getting this big requires the gorillas to spend much of their day eating.

Ă&#x201A; THE KING WITH THE SILVER BACK For many people, the term "silverback" has become synonymous with the entire species, but in reality only adult males develop this marking. At approximately 12 years of age, males develop a saddleshaped patch of silver fur on their backs. There is usually only one silverback per troop and heis the patriarch and chief. 108 Sawubona November 2017

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CONSERVATION WHERETOGO Mountain gorillas can be seen in national parks in three African countries:

A IN NEED OF PROTECTION Like many of the world's more exotic creatures, the fate of the noble mountain gorillas is teetering on a knife edge. According to the Ugandan Wildlife Association (UWA), there are manythreats


• Bwindi or Magahinga Gorilla National Parks, Uganda 2017 pricing is US$600 per person. The rai ny season is frorn MarchMay and OctoberNovernber. The best lime to visit is Decernber-late February and June-Seplernber. Friends of ours went off-season and rain did darnpen lhe experience. Perrnits can be obtained ai UWA offices in Kilernbe or Karnpala or through a nurnber of lour cornpanies and rnust be oblained before going lo lhe parks. ldeally, conlacl UWA before arriving in Uganda, via http// • Yolcanoes National Park, Rwanda Pricing here recenl~ doubled to US$ l 500. • Virunga National Park, Dernocratic Republic of Congo (DRC) Pricing here is cheaper lhan elsewhere ai US$400 per excursion, excluding transpor!. Duelo low confidence in the slabi lity of the area, there are apparenlly for fewer people on lhe DRC trips. The park is also allegedly less regulated, so visilors can gel closer to lhe an irnals. Visil https//

Unfortunately, as is commonly the case these days, force is required to ensure the gorillas' safety. Brave and passionate people like this UWA ranger risk their lives to protect them. While the AK47 he holds is mostly used for scaring off aggressive animais, he told us that during his time with the UWA, there have been altercations with poachers. People like him deserve our undying respect.

• Through Team Tone, an organisalion Shane and his wife Tarryn starled, lhe Soulh African adventure couple is lrying lo encourage environmental and cultural aworeness. Their currenl expedilion - Suzuki Nrica Sky High - has seen lhem joumeying lhrough Africa in a Suzuki Jimny Follow lheir lrip ai \' and on Facebook @TeamTane 'U..

affecting the gorillas' future. Resource scarcity and poverty mean that the boundaries of ali national parks containing gorillas are constantlyencroached upon for illegal hunting, deforestation for subsistence farming and poaching.

·-----------PAYING THE PRICE

1The expensive entrance fees must be understood in the context of conservation within the African environment. With masses of 1 underprivileged people to uplift, conservation often comes last. As 1 a result, most money for organisations like the UWA is generated externally. The funds generated from Bwindi makes up 80-90% of 1 Uganda's conservation income and, in turn, its budget. Organisations like the UWA do a great jo b of safeguarding Africa's 1 natural wonders through activities like law enforcement, eco-tourism, community education, research and general care. The experience is 1 incredible and well worth it and we paid it happily, consideringit a

1 1 1 1 1

·------------· donation towards African wildlife conservation.

11 O Sawubona Novem ber 20 l 7


GUMBOOTS AREIN OURDNA Since 1970, over 64 million gumboots have rolled off our production line. Wthese vvere to be lined up from heel to toe, theywould stretch halfway around the world! With a herilage s~ning 5 decades, Weyne is lhe largest manufacturerof PVCand RJ glll'lboots inAfricaWe undersland what matters mcst to our wstcmers - quality, comfort and wearer protection backed by wor1d-class service.

lhe Wr:r.;ne PVC and RJ g1.111bcot range prcMdes harttweanng pro1Bction in diversa working oonditions - from agriculture and forestry, food processing anel tiygiene to heavyduty and generaJ purpose applications. Wilh gl..ITiboots 1hat caler to female and male 'Neal'ers, a oombination of safely feaĂ­ures (toe cai:s and soles), an array of industry-relevant colours and a variely of lengths and cuts. Weyne can prcMde a gumboot solution bit will li your needS. regardless of industry or applicalion.



hatever vocalist and songwriter Simphiwe Dana does - from being a voice of reason on social media on !opies such as feminism and equality, to working as a convenor for the Arts and Culture chapter of the African Union's Agenda 2063 initiative - she always carries Africa in her heart. This passion is evident in her CD/DVD combo, The Simphiwe Dana Symphony Experience, which was recorded ai a sold-out concert in Jo'burg late las! year and released in August 2017. Dana collaborated with tvvo of Africa's equally talented vocalisls -Asa from Nigeria and Concha Buika from Equatorial Guinea - and the concert featured a 60-piece orchestra, a 30-member choir anda dance troupe. "I wanted to create a show that would demonstrate African solidarity, which is why 1 performed with Asa and Concha Buika. We formed a musical sisterhood that touched on criticai issues such as African

emancipation, the future of our continent and the role women play in society," she says. "There isso much cultural treasure and spirituality in Africa that we need to no! only entertain the world With, but also educate. Being a performer doesn't mean that one must lose one's social consciousness," she says. "The music on lhe CD/ DVD combo speaks about how Africa is now being recognised for its role in shaping world music and l'm humbled to be one of lhe artists menlioned in this evolution." From her modern, yet traditional attire to her thick braids, Dana embodies the authentic African spirit, which shines through in her lyrics on acclaimed albums such as Zandisile, The One Love Movement on Baniu Biko Street and Firebrand. When her illustrious career is over one day, Dana would like to be remembered as an "Afro-featurist" and an artist who constantly honed her craft and always strove to showcase the beauty of Africa

The Simphiwe Dana Symphony Experience is available as part of SAJĂş in-flight entertainment. lt's also available ai seleci reta ilers and for download on iTunes. l 13


!leviving 1nner • • c1t1es, • • rev1v1ng the arts Call it gentrification - which for some means the removal of the urban poor in favour of the well-heeled crowds - but the revival of South Africa's inner cities has been a boon for the arts. Once-seedy buildings are now home lo trendy cafés, art galleries, pop-up theatres, open-air film screenings and hip slores. These new establishments often create employment and support local economies by attracting large numbers of patrons with money to spend. lf you're a fan of the arts, here are some must-visit urban spots to explore.



Painted a striking yellow and turquoise, this building in downtown Jo'burg is pari of a precinct called Joziburg Lane, one of the city's trendiest areas. Go inside where you'll be dazzled by artists' studios anda wel~laid-out eating area run by Hangout Jozi, offering art, craft anda deli. ln addition, you'll find pop-up food stalls with all kinds of scrumptious street food The venue is slowly coming into its own, evolving inlo a musl-visil destinalion that's committed to supporting the local community, particularly its artists. Nkhensani Rihlampfu is a bronze and rope sculptor who is thriving at One Eloff Street. He used to live and work in a downtown fiai thal was too small to


114 Sawubona Novem ber 20 l 7

accommodate his sculptures so he approached the Joziburg developers for a studio and was given one. Rihlampfu is making the most of the space and has just completed a 2m-tall clay sculpture of Basil d'Oliviera, an England cricketer born in South Africa who triggered a storm of controversy in 1968 when the apartheid regime forced his recall from the England team facing South Africa because of his race. "He is one of our country's freedom fighlers who used sport to fight the apartheid government. Without inner-city regeneration, 1 would not have had the space to tell such an important story," Rihlampfu says. Visil



Another nugget in the City of Gold is The Marabi Club at 47 Sivewright Ave in New Doornfontein, which opened its doors about six months ago. Apart from the attraction of live jazz, the venue houses a pop-up Pot Luck Club restaurant- a Cape Town institution run byworld-famous chef Luke Dale-Roberts. Named after marabi, a popular music genre during the heyday of min ing i n Jo'burg, the club tastefully curales the city's hislory, culture and heritage through framed pictures of masters of the jazz pantheon. With carefully selected decor pieces that mix the old and new, it oozes industrial chie. lt's a haven for foodies and music lovers and is an ideal platform for emerging jazz artists wanting to perfect their craft in front of a live audience.




Formerly a light industrial area, the Rivertown Precinct, located betvveen the lnkosi Albert Luthuli lnternalional Convention Centre and the beachfront, is Durban's mos! noteworthy cultural revival initialive. There you'll find Curiocity, a budget backpackers' hostel that's a short walk from a number of popular reslaurants and cultural spots. Then there's lhe popular 8 Morrison Street which offers communal office spaces for creatives. One of Durban's sons of slreel art, Louis de Villiers, better known as Skullboy, is responsible for the eyecatching mural at the building's entrance. His mostly monochromatic work louches on taboo subjects such as sex, religion and drugs, as well as social and political truths.





The Old Biscuit Mill is a warm-hearted village in lhe middle of Woodstock, Cape Town, boasting workshops, designer stores, restaurants and farm stalls. Crackling with crealive energy, lhe mill is also a popular festival venue. Many crealives, such as Tammy N icol, owner of Bellovisla Produclions, praise the development of the area. ''We have definitely benefited from the rejuvenation of Woodstock. Urban renewal changed the shape of design and, as a result, no! everyone in the crealive industry requires a ful~time office, shop, gallery or studio space anymore," she says. The mill also calers for foodies The weekly Neighbourgoods Market is the mill's mos! popular evenl, showcasing more than l 00 speciality traders, such as local farmers, fine-food purveyors, organic produce merchanls, bakers, grocers, butchers, arlisanal food producers and celebrated chefs, as well as numerous micro-enterprises. Visit www oldbiscuitmill coza


SAFARI HOTELS WINDHOEK A traditwn of hospitality si,nce 1966 lhe spectacu lar four-star Safari Court Hotel lias 21 5 luxuriously appointed bedrooms and spacious suites. As one o{ the best-known hotels in Namíbia, it offers something for everyone, whether you're a leisure or business traveller. Treat your tastebuds at the elegant Acacia Restaurant, the Beergarden, patio or Coffee Comer and take some time out to relax at the on-site spa and gym. Namibia's largest conference venue is parto{ the Safari Court Hotel & Conference Centre, offeríng a number o{ different-sízed rooms, whích can be uníquely configured to meet ali your conference or banqueting requirements.




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DAZING MUSIC FOR DAYS The Endless Daze Music Feslival, taking place ai the Silwerstroorn Resort frorn 3-5 Novernber, is a not-to-be-rnissed serving of musical bliss. Nearly 30 acts, three of which are international, will ensure that this is an unforgettable experience. Headliners include Oh Sees (USA), Moon Duo (USA), Blk Jks, The Sunflowers, Arny Ayanda and others. wwwendlessdazefestcom


1 ~i!~i~}s~g!~~ ic~~~ Rock & Roll Hall of Farne 1 1 inductee, Yusuf/Cat Stevens will tour South Africa for the first 1 tirne this Novernber as pari of his Peoce Train tour. His three1 city SA tour will take Ians down rnernory lane with hits such 1 as Wild World, Moonshadow, Father and Son, Peace Train 1 and Moming Has Broken. 1 • Jo'burg 8 Novernber ai the Ticketpro Dome 1 • Cape Town 1 l and 12 Novernber, Kirstenbosch National 1 Botanical Garden 1 • Durban 15 Novernber, Durban ICC Arena 1 Johannesburg and Durban Ians can book via Cornputicket and tickets for the Cape Town shows ..1


are available frorn

MUSIC REVIEW BANO: Joh nny Cradle ALBUM: Johnny Cradle RATING: 4/5

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ln this, their debut alburn, this three-piece band offers sorne of the freshest Afro rock sounds around, including DJ scratch sarnples and effects, coupled With rneaningful lyrics. Salut is an ode to overlooked workers such as farrners, dornestics and taxi drivers. The trio uses rnultiple genres to create exhilarating hip-hop electronica tracks such as Mahambelala, Sadakwa and ulate.





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Liquid amber ln a small area south-west of Paris and north of Bordeaux, lies the town of C ognac. The place may be small (15,5km2with few er than 20 000 residents), but it's home to some very famous brands

ne ofthe names synonymous with the town is Martell, thanks to Jean Martell who founded the first cognac house there back in 1715. Others followed over theyears and the area is now known for the production of the luxurious amber liquid. The uninitiated often lump brandy and cognac together, which is not technicallywrong, as cognac is a brandy albeit a specific type produced from distilled white wine. However, to be labelled as cognac, strict regulations must be adhered to in its production. It has to be made from specified grape varieties grown in Cognac's Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC), which includes six specified zones or crus, double-distilled in copper potstills, aged at least two years in oak barreis (although most are aged at least twice the minimum). must contain at least 40% alcohol, and the grapes have to be harvested in October with distillation taking place between 1 November and 31 March. Cognac can be distilled with or without the lees (wine sediment). Martell is the only one of the major cognac houses to distil exclusively clear wines (ie they remove the lees), and to age it in fine-grain oak barreis (to decrease the influence ofwood and highlight the fresh, fruity notes). There are three main classifications for cognac which appear on the label: VS (Very Special) is aged at least two years, VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) must be aged for four years and XO (Extra Old) at least six years.



• 40ml Mortell VS

• 15ml honey syrup

• l Oml lime julce

• l 50ml green teo

• Loyer ingredients ln o highboll gloss over Ice cubes.

120 Sawubono Novem ber 20 17

DRINK IIlTTING ffiE SPOT ln October, Martell launched the new Martell cognac expression VSSD (VS Single Distillery Cognac) in the South African market. This VSSD is the first VS cognac distilled from a single source to be produced by the House of Martell. It's a good lime for an innovative launch as cognac's popularity is booming locally and Etienne Cassuto, Brand Manager at Martell, is confident that it's going to be a big seller. One should ditch the stereotype ofthe "old-school" cognac drinker sitting beside a fireplace sipping it, says Cassuto. Research by Martell shows that the average local cognac drinker falis into the 25- to 35-year-old age bracket. "This is the fastest-growing pool of consumers who are on the u p in their professional lives and are starting to reward themselves with premi um goods and are enjoying the liquid in various different ways;' he says. Cassuto adds that local cognac-lovers aren't shy to express themselves - they're mixing, making cocktails and finding ditferent ways of enjoying it - led by individuality and curiosity. "It's a very high-energy category - as in people are consuming cognac in high-energy spaces. It's becoming

your standard party drink now:' He points out that champagne and cognac are good bedfellows for partygoers at premier nightclubs around the country and that cognac is no longer a drink favoured only by men, with increasing numbers ofwomen enjoying it too. He says that while Martell has a spectacular heritage going back 302 years, it is a "pioneering" brand and what sets it apart is the ability to reinvent itself and redefine the cognac category. Cassuto says that making a mark in the local industry takes careful strategy and consistent etfort. "Cognac is an exciting and growing spirits category in South Africa. Consumers are increasingly curious to discover new products with authentic heritage and quality, which makes this the perfect lime to introduce our new VS Single DistillerY:' Q. For more information, visit: - Denise Slabberl CASSUTO'S TIPS FOR DRINKING COGNAC • Enjoying cognac is all about personal preferences. While Cassuto prefers to drink his cognac cold with a dash of water to release the aromas, he says it also works well with fruity mixers if you like your drink long and sweet. The VSSD is smooth enough to be enjoyed neat. • Don't mix anything with the Marte li XO Because of its complexity, it's best appreciated as it is. • For an after-dinner treat, pair dark chocolate, ginger and orange peel with Marte li Cordon Bleu. 121


SAVAGE IN THE CITY As a passionate surfer, Duncan Savage knows a thing or two about taking the plunge. Yet, while dropping into a peeling left-hander off Long Beach is one thing, leaving behind the relative security of an established cellar to strike out on his own is another risk altogether

But that's precisely what Savage did in 2016, bidding farewell to Cape Poinl Vineyards where he'd worked for 14 vintages, to focus on his own label, Savage Wines. While his early vintages were made in rented cellar space, July 2017 saw Savage take yet another leap of faith, selling up his own cellar far from the manicured vineyards of the Cape Peninsula or Stellenbosch. The grilty Cape Town suburb of Salt River is an unlikely location for a leading winery, but it feels like a perfectfit for his freewheeling spiril. "I realised that as we grow we'll need a home for the brand/' explains Savage of the decision lo invesl in his own space. "We always said we wanted to cap our produclion ai 40 000 bottles and this space is jus! right for doing those sorts of volumes." He's a laid-back guy, but beneath the surfer bo nho mie (you'r e 1ike ly to fi nd a dripping wetsuit hung up to dry in the cellar) lies the astute palate of one of the mos! talented winemakers in lhe business. ln 2002 he graduated top of his class

122 Sawubona No'.ember 2017

from Elsenburg Agricultural College and, jus! five short years later, was nominated as a member of the prestigious Cape Winemakers' Guild. A decade on, he's the proud owner of the largesl city wi nery taking grapes from berry to barrei. lt's an impressive space, with a pressing and fermentalion area, cold slorage for bottles anda cosy barre~ maluration room. lt's here that visitors will have lhe chance lo sample his acclaimed portfolio of terroir-driven wines, each informed by the unique vineyards across lhe Cape that Savage has chosen to work with. There's Cinsault and Syrah from the lrendy Swartland in "Follow the Line" and an enlirely novel take on Touriga Nacional in "Are We There Yet2" - lhe grapes sourced from pioneering vineyards along lhe Breede River. Also look out for a new release in 20 l 8 "Th ief in the N ight" is a playful reference to lhe sought-after Grenache vineyards of the high-altitude Piekenierskloof north of Cape Town. Topping off lhe portfolio are the impressive blends - Savage Red (Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault) and Savage White (Sauvignon Blanc, SĂŠmillon and Chenin Blanc) - both highly rated in the Platter's

Wine Guide.

.& 010 YOU KNOW? Savage is a regular compelitor in lhe annual Vintners Surf Classic, a surfing competition for lhe wine industry held in lhe southern Cape town of Stilbaai each winler. This year he placed second in the Seniors category

With lhe 2018 harvest jus! months away, Savage will be preparing for his first vintage to be pressed, fermented, malured and bottled in his own cellar. But first, he'll need to gel that wetsuit oul the way

â&#x20AC;˘ Public tastings are offered one evening a month by reservation only and are limited to 12-18 guests. Visit wwwsavagewines. com, email or te/ 021 7854019.

FOOD & DRINK By lngrid Wood



T Eikendal Vineyards is offeri ng a decadent

While the vineyards may take pride of place ai the estale, Broad Valley also boasts five hectares of productive olive orchards. Hand-harvested and cold-pressed on-site, the medium-bodied extra virgin olive oil has hints of olive leaf and pine seed and lingering pepper. We're rather smitten with the cool packaging! Email leigh@broadvalleywines.


Valley E.x-<ra Virg,in OliveOil

Cheesecake and Wine Pairing Experience - think crisp Sauvignon Blanc with lemon cheesecake or the Janina Unwooded Chardonnay with a salted-caramel cheesecake. lt runs until April 20 l 8, Tuesdays-Su ndays, l Oa m-4. 30p m an d costs R80 per person. Tel 021 855 l 422 or ema i1 i nfo@e ike nda 1co za for stockists. Ql.l.HJWW):I l3H.'f'I


! 1Ot

• lf you enjoy a lightly fermented Chardonnay, try the Steenberg

Sphynx Chardonnay 2017 (R 135). The grapes are sourced from vineyards i n Robertson and Bonnievale and the result is a lovely, fresh wine, balanced by a citrus acidity that will allow it to be aged for tvvo to five years. lt's perfect with shelWish, creamy soups or grilled fish


Enjoy a rustic French-style picnic including baguettes, Brie, locally cured saucisson, Franschhoek trout, homemade preserves, salad and chocolate brownies at Grande Provençe unti 1 the end of Apri 1 20 l 8. lt costs R325 per person sharing or R345 for a single basket. To book, tel 021 876 8600 or ema i1 r estoura nt@gra ndeprove nce. co .za

• Waverley Hills, an organic



~5.IUV!GNON CABERNtT AA.INCllfl'.>1: 2016

wine estale, has released an exciting Bordeaux-style red blend De Huijsbosch 2016 (R 130), named after an ancient mountain stream on the property. Smooth with soft ripe tannins, the Bordeaux is balanced and structured. "To me, the palate is silky soft, like cream and blackberries," says winemaker Johan Delport.



With a focus on "quality with integrity", Reyneke Wines doesn't stray from its vision and the certified-organic and biodynamic farm and winery is bei ng recognised for that commitment. We suggest you stock up on the 20 l 5 Syrah (R 175), which was ranked 94 points out of l 00 by renowned wine commentator Tim Atkin in his 2017

South African Report. 123


-what to do this month locally and around the world

12¡ 16 NOVEMBER PHOTOGRAPHER'S PARADISE IN THE KALAHARI, BOTSWANA Kgalagadi Lodge is offering an exclusive photography workshop presented by wellknown international wildlife photographer Luiz Carlos. The five-day workshop will include teaching sessions in the mornings and evenings and trips to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park to puf lhe day's lessons into praclice. Participants require a DSLR comera or equivalenl, anda telephoto lens with a focal range of approxi mately 55-200mm or longer. luiz@wildlifephotography com. br or info@kga lagad i-lodge. co. za

30 NOVEMBER SHINING LIGHTS AWARDS, NAMIBIA The De Beers Group of Companies' Young Jewellery Designers lniliative - lhe Shining Lights Awards (SLA) has gone from slrength lo strength, creating opportunilies and exposure for young designers by developing their skills in diamond jewellery design and craftsmanship. The programme has received greal acclaim, with a growing number of entries received each year. This year's awards ceremony wi li be held ai the Wi ndhoek Country Club under the theme "Protecting Nature's Beauty". The iniliative has run for more than 20 years in South Africa and more than eight in Botswana and Namibia. This year, a winner will benefit from opportunities including an apprenticeship ai a parlner design school anda jewellery skills-developmenl programme in Milan, ltaly in conjunction Wilh Forevermark.



AFRICA HEALTH BUSINESS SYMPOSIUM, SENEGAL Health-seclor stakeholders will convene ai the second Africa Health Business Symposium ai lhe King Fahd Palace Hotel in Dakar to strategise on how Public Private Partnerships (PPPs) on lhe continent could be strengthened. Held under lhe theme, "Transforming PPPs for Health in Africa", the symposium is a platform for creating a legal and regulatory framework for PPPs and facilitating capacity-building and regional inlegralion among organisalions across all five regions of Africa WWW africa healthbusi ness. com

124 Sawubona No'.ember 2017

Jane McGonigal

Mariétne Jamme

Rapeleng Rabana

BCXDisrupt Summit, Johannesburg South Africans will be able to engage with some of the world's greatest disruptors ai the inaugural BCXDisrupt Summit, to be held ai Kyalami Grand Prix Circuit and lnternational Convention Centre in Midrand on 16 and 17 November.

DAY ONE SPEAKERS INCLUDE: • Jane McGonigal, Director of G ame Research and Development ai th e lnstitute For the Future in California. • Lars Silberba uer, Senior G lobal Director of Social Media and Video ai LEGO . • M alcolm G ladwell, bestselling author and New York Times journalist. • MariémeJamme, technologist and one of Britain's 100 M ost lnlluential People of African and Africa n Caribbea n Heritage. • Nick G oldman, mathematician and genome scientist. • Rapelang Ra bana, founder and C EO of learning technology compa ny Rekindle Lea rning. • Sipho Maseko, G roup C EO of Telkom and an Executive Director of BCX.

• w, g lobal music artist, crea tive inn ovator, entrepreneur and tec h investor. ln addition to paradigmshifting addresses from these speakers, the first day will feature a panei discussion titled "How to C reate the Future" with Malcolm G ladwell, Rapelang Rabana , lan Russell (C EO of BCX) and DAY TWO will feature an exclusive masterclass hosted by M alcolm G ladwell. TICKET PRICES: General access day one: RB 200, VIP access day one: R16 4 00, M asterc lass access day tvvo: R1 2 200, Premium (general access to day one and access to day tvvo): R18 300, Premium VI P (VIP access to day one and access to day tvvo): R26 4 00. For further information and bookings, visit: www.bcxdisrupt. com

Constitution Hill is a fusion of history, architecture and art. lt is a site that reflects a profound sense of humanity, activism and a deep yearning for justice. The Constitutional Court South Africa's highest court, presides over the site - ensuring the rights of all South Africans that are enshrined in our country's constitution. The intersection of law and art on the Hill is a stunning expression of citizenry and constitutionalism. The Hill is also a platform for artists, lawyers and activists across the spectrum who are driven and inspired by the creative transformation of South Africa. The Flame of Democracy, lit by Nelson Mandela in his home in Qunu in 2011, burns eternally opposite the entrance to the Constitutional Court. lt serves to remind ali South Africans of their

right to freedom and democracy.




~ visitconhill




4-5, 1, 1O NOVEMBER JOHN LEGEND, DARKNESS AND LIGHT TOUR, JO'BURG, DURBAN, CAPE TOWN This l 0-time Grammy Award-winner and multi-Platinum-selling artist is returning to SA with his highly anticipated Darkness and 1..ight globo 1tour. Legend, who was last in the country three years ago, will perform at the Ticketpro Dome in Jo'burg, Moses Mabhida Stadium in Durban and the Grand Arena at Cape Town's GrandWest Casino. wwwb1gconcerts coza

4 NOVEMBER PAUL RENÉ BUBBLY FESTIVAL, CAPE TOWN Take a trip to the home of Paul René at lhe Wonderfontein Wine Estale in Robertson and sa mple hand-crafted Paul René Brut and Brut Rosé Guests will be spoiled with luxury country hospitality, and bubbly will be on sale all day at discount festival prices Foodies can enjoy delicious Saldanha Bay oysters, Norwegian salmon and other gourmet treats on offer Delight in the MCC range and listen to live music from renowned artist Arno Carstens, while the kids enjoy horse rides and other activities.



The Peermont Emperors Palace Charity Mile is an event that racing Ians and celeb-spotters

This award-winning Broadway musical returns lo the Soulh African stage in a vibrant 20~ anniversary showcase at GrandWest Casino, featuring an all-South African cast Nominated for l O Tony Awards, the critically acclaimed musical enjoyed a run of 710 shows on Broadway in 2000, before moving to the West End in 2002 Director Laura Bosman's aim is to highlight the heart, humour and humanity of this muchloved story "Although the show is about six men who go 'all the way', for me this is not the most important part of the story At its core, The Fui/ Monty deals with men's issues

look forward to every year For the main feature roce, 16 charities are paired with 16 celebrities, 16 media partners and, of course, the 16 racehorses, with each charity receiving a share of Rl million The charity paired with the winning horse will receive R150 000 and second place will earn them Rl 00 000, with all 14 other charities getting proportionate amounts of the total donation, depend ing on their allocated horse's placement


Rent with Budget and book a flightwith SAA this November and you could win a weekend away. Book now and let fun times roll.

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EMBRACING A THOROUGHBRED LIFESTYLE For some it's cars, watches, the latest Louboutins or Choos, tailorecl suits ora bespoke bag, but those in the know who can say '"I have it ali", are aclcling thoroughbrecl racehorses to their list of passions anel lifestyle must-haves HORSE RACING IS NO LONGER jus! aboul attending a race day as a mere spectator. lt's about participation, and having a vested inferes! in a runner in your personal colours is the ultimate thrill Ownership options range from sole ownership, to racing in partnership with a few other owners, or within a bigger syndicale, which is managed on your behalf by the syndicate manager. Shared ownership allows you to split the costs, but share the rewards and all the fun Even if you only own a l 0% share, lhe prestige and bragging rights that come with it are the sarne as if you owned the whole horse, with the added benefit that you share the racing experience with a group of friends There's nothing quite like a day ai the roces with your friends or business associates and having them accompany you down to the parade ring and Winners'

circle, should you be lucky enough to own the winner. South African-bred horses have competed extremely successfully on the world stage when given lhe opportunity to travei, and yet still represent excellent value for money compared to internalional sales prices. Our training establishments, tracks and trainers are well-respected and we continue to produce top-performing horses ai a fraction of what it costs to race elsewhere in the world. Owning a racehorse is about embracing a lifestyle that includes the thrill of allending auction sales, visiting your horse ai the racing stables and watching the morning training as the sun rises. lt also lends itself to dressing accordingly (think Ralph Lauren Polo) and, of course, donning those race-day hats and accessories for a race meeti ng. Becoming a racehorse owner should be seen as a leisure pursuit rather than an investmenl, but it's also one of the mos! rewarding and exciting things to be involved in, whatever levei of ownership you choose. lhe Thoroughbred Breeders' Association of South Africa represenls and promoles the thoroughbred horse and breeding industry and is a valuable source of informalion



Visit and facebook com/THETBAOFSA/ Email catherine@tba coza

EVENTS that are often overlooked or ignored at the expense of more widely accepted women's issues," says Bosman. "We see how these men struggle with their body image, how they deal with the devastating emasculation caused by unemployment, and the lengths they will go to in order to hide their fears and feelings of i nadequacy."

orientated day out. The R2 mi llion race promises electrifying entertainment for young and old. "By harnessing lhe power of lhe people, we have ensured a truly Gauleng roce day that connects people, creates iobs, supports entrepreneurship a nd celebrates lhe multiculturalism of our beautiful Gauleng," says Clyde Basel of Phumelela Racing and Events Executive. 19 NOVEMBER LAUGHING MAITERS, JO'BURG


Alter a completely sold-out season of Love Faclually earlier this year, comedian Alan Committie returns with this all-new standup show at the Pieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino. Famous for seeing the lunny side of life, his subiect matter this time ranges from the Pokémon Go craze to the #FeesMustFall issue. Johan van der Walt makes an appearance to explore the history of pop music, and the evening culminates in a thigh-slapping tribute to lhe Olympic Games, including lhe finer nuances of iavelin-throwing. The show's directed by Chris Weare.



GAUTENG SANSUI SUMMER CUP, JOBURG The annual, long-running SANSUI Summer Cup returns to the historie Turffontein Racecourse for an exciting !inale to lhe racing season. The evenl combines thrilling racing with a lun, lamily-

The fifth annual BUCO Origin of Trai Is mountain bike stage race will take place i n Stellenbosc h. Emphasisi ng lhe magnificence of the City of Oaks, lhe roce co mb ines a vast network of world-class trails with beauty and exclusivity, giving riders lhe "once a year" opportunity to experience a spectacular combinalion of single-tracks. Starting in the stunning 336-year-old town, riders make their way to the mountains to tackle ieep track, sin g le track, steep climbs and pulsating descents - everything you' d wa nt i n a two-day stage roce. The mai n benefactor of l he cha llenge is lhe Stellenbosch Trail Building Fun d which is committed lo further developing the trails in Stellenbosch a nd sealing the town's repulation as a globo 1 mo untai n-biking desti nalio n. Q..

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//// This security estate, comprising 47 upmarket units with high-end, qualityftnishes, isloc<ited in theup-and-coming suburb of Kleine Kuppe in Windhoek, Namíbia, <ind will provi de a tranquil <ind secureliving environment. • Communal 2 650m' pl ayground • Comm unal braai area. Commun<il under-roof entertainment <irea with kitchen and two bathroom s • Ample

guest parking. 24hr security-controlled entrance · Close to amenities like schools, gym, private hospital and shopping mal 1• 73 guest parki ngs Un its measuring 222,Sm' include: • 3 bedroom s • 2 bathr ooms, main en suite· study nook • openpl an kitchen/ lounge· seu li ery • guest WC· doubl e automated garage. covered pati o with built-in braai • pool: 2,9m x 2,24m x 1,1 Sm deep.

CALL US TO NOW FOR MORE INFO ANO BOOKAVIEWING N exl show house 17 November 20 17 lrom l Oam-1 p m and Live Broadcast w ith Kosmos 94. l .

H.Jsky fams thal offer sledding Q><CUrsions to fotrisls dwoys S&lect dogs with o good work obilily, slomino ond o friendly disposĂźion. Jusl before toke-off, lhe dogs - o surge of odrenoline coursing lhrough lheir veins - stro in ot lhe ropes ond mete o rocket, o cocophony of howlilg ond growling. Bu, when they're a1 rest, lhey're usuollyvery ployful, eoger for tummy rubs ond genlle pois.






ABOVE: The movie industry has played a pari in presenting lhe image of a "typical" husky as heavily built, fluffy and blus-eyed, when in fad, the majority of sled dogs are mixed-breed, si ighter in build and less furry than one would expect. For centuries, lhe lnuil and Sámi (the firsl inhabitants of northern Europe, including Finn ish Lapland) bred dogs solely for ab il üy and temperament, no! superficial characterislics. Smarts, speed, slrength and loyalty have always been considered ideal features in huskies.

OPPOSITE: A musher cuddles one of his adopted pups afier a ride in lvalo, northern Lapland, where the winter temperatures sink below -30ºC.


in lvalo, in Finnish Lapland, as the row of sleds - pulled by six-rnernber packs of Alaskan and Siberian huskies - slice through the carpet of snow and ice. The peace is interrupted only by the panting of the sturdy, powerful dogs and the encouraging hoots of the rnushers (sled drivers) They ensure the dogs are given adequate rest, top-quality food and plenty of attention. The air is crisp and cutting at -30"C, the ground an endless arrow of white powder, punctuated occasionally by a hill, where one foot rnust be lifted off the pedal to help propel the sled, giving the huskies a boost. These dogs rnanage the terrain very well and can navigate their way horne in a barren, repetitive landscape - a challenging task for even the rnost experienced rnushers.

Man and hound have had a cornplex and growing interdependent relationship over rnillennia. Scienlists have yet to date the first known occurrence of sleds being pulled by dogs, but it's said to have been about 2 000 years ago in Ust'-Polui in lhe Siberian Arclic. Considering the speed and distance huskies can cover, this activity would have had a crucial i nfluence on hurna n rnigration in th is difficult clirnate. The dogs were also used to hunt, thereby ensuring the survival of these isolated cornrnun ities. As our convoy glides through a winter wonderland, it's easy to appreciate how sled dogs have altered the course of hurnan history

• Find out more at Hetla Huskies,

www hetta huskies com or Bear Hill Husky, www bearhillhusky com 133



Forrnerly a lawyer, lshay Govender-Yprna is now a freelance travei and culture photojournalist and cookbook and guidebook author. Her bylines appear in the Sunday Times Travei (UK), The National (UAE),

Roads & Kingdoms, Marie Claire, Mail & Guardian and rnany other publications. She has a deep inferes! in cultural anthropology and what rnakes us hurnan. Visit ~Ă&#x20AC;. 134 Sawubona No'.ember 2017

ABOVE: Winler sun slrikes lhe ground as lhe convoy of sleds gl ides belween snow-covered pine lrees. Thicker coais mean lh ai S iberi ans can generally wilhstand colder lemperalures and can sleep ouldoors if necessary. AI askan Huskies lradilionally cope better wilh shorl, fast bursts of speed, while Siberians can handle longer safaris. The latter tend to gel bored or frustraled wilh short, repet il ive 1oops. Sled dogs are usually a m ix of Siberian, Alaskan and Malamule breeds,

although some farms prefer on e breed over another for various reasons.

OPPOSITE: During a pause in our journey, a husky stares intently ai me with ils amber-coloured eyes. While these dogs are often associated with piercing, blue eyes, only 20% of huskies have them. A further 20% have m ixed eye colouration - either parti-eyed a combination of blue and brown in each eye, or bi-eyed having one blue and one brown eye. The majority of huskies, however, have brown eyes.






We all want to arrive at our holiday destination feeling refreshed and rested, but travelling can take its toll on body and mind. Here's how to ensure that you start your vacation healthy, happy and ready for fun 136 Sawvbona No\9mber 20 17

BEFORE YOU GO MINIMISE PRE-FLIGHT STRESS "Last-minute packing, watering the garden, dealingwith household matters, ensuring your pets are taken care of.. all these things cause great anxiety before you've even left home:' says bio-scientist ProfRon Eccles, a respiratory infection expert, adding that stress is one of the greatest causes of compromised immunity. ''.And when you get to the airport, modern-day tightened security means you can't relax - you have togo through many checks and wait around for hours - which adds extra stress. Your immune system is vulnerable and, because airports are filled with people from ali corners ofthe globe - each perhaps carrying their own local infections to which you may not have natural immunity - you risk getting sick ifyour defences are down:'


• MEDICATE Aspirin is commonly recommended before flights - particularly long ones - to prevent deep vein thrombosis (DVT). Accordingto research, a low-dose of aspirin (1 OOmg) taken the day before you fly, the day of your flight and for several days afterwards can reduce your risk of a pulmonary embolism by up to 60%. However, aspirin is not suitable for everyone, including those with stomach ulcers, so consult your doctor before taking it. There are also several natural alternatives, including pycnogenol (pine bark extract) and ginkgo biloba. • GET PLENTY OF REST "Sleep is restorative;' says Eccles, "and deprivation studies have shown an increase in susceptibility to infection when you dorít get enough. Ifs hard to 'top up' your sleep before you go on holiday, but take it as easy as possible and ensure you dorít have too many late nights or early mornings:' If you're flying east, go to bed early to advance your circadian rhythm and help prevent the worst effects of jet lag. • CHOOSE THE RIGHT SEAT A window seat with views of seas and sky can be calming ifyou're nervous, while an aisle seat might allow you to stretch your legs a little further if you're tall. If you suffer from headaches or earache on flights, choose a seat at the front or the back, well away from the engines, and sit in the middle of the plane if you're susceptible to motion sickness. • STAY ACTIVE Rather than simply sitting in the departure lounge, walk about brisklyto keep your circulation going, advises Farrol Kahn, an aviation health expert and the author of several books on the subject. You'll be inactive for most of the flight and walking will help you relax, minimise stiffness later and reduce your risk ofDVT.

there can be a lot of cross-contamination:' Wash your hands regularly and, even better, also use alcohol-based wipes. • STAY HYDRATED The water you drink is absorbed rapidly into the bloodstream and helps prevent thickening ofthe blood, which in tum reduces your risk ofDVT - possibly the most important reason to stay hydrated on aplane. Relative humidity inside a cabin can, in extreme cases, be as low as 2% - well below the 30% minimum "comfort zone''. "The cabirís dry atmosphere will hamper your respiratory systerrís defences, increasing your

minutes of movement every hour while flying. Many larger airlines recommend in-flight exercises to boost circulation, but you should also walk the aisle regularly t o prevent the pooling ofblood in the legs, which causes DVT. You can find a range of exercises to do in your seat at the back of this magazine. • PROTECT YOUR EARS Earplugs can be used if engine noise disturbs you. Try chewing gum or sucking a sweet on take-off and landing to ease the discomfort caused by cabin pressure changes. • BREATHE PROPERLY Hyperventilation is a common problem dueto stress or nerves. "When you hyperventilate, you begin to lose too much carbon dioxide from your brain and could experience hallucinations or a panic attack and black out;' says psychotherapist Phillip Hodson. Breathing deeply can help you stay calm. Breathe deeply into the belly for the count of three, out slowly for the count of three, then hold for the count of three. Repeat this until you feel calmer. • WEAR STOCKINGS Compression stockings are recommended to help prevent DVT during a flight by stopping blood from stagnating in the feet and calves. A review of the evidence for the benefits of wearing these stockings was published in the Cochrane Database of Systematíc Revíews, with researchers concluding that airline passengers "can expect a substantial reduction in the incidence of symptomless DVT and leg oedema if they wear compression stockings''.


WHILE ON BOARD • WASH YOUR HANDS Introducing viruses and bacteria into your nose or eyes via your hands when you scratch, pick or wipe is a primary means of transmitting disease. A University of California study found that of a sample of over 1 000 passengers on a flight, one- fifth reported cold symptoms the following week Viruses and bacteria can be found on any surface and are easily picked up and spread. "Bacteria will give you gastric upsets, and viruses can give you colds and flu;' says Eccles. "Some of these can survive for up to 24 hours in a plane and with lots of international travellers coming and going,

sus ceptibility to infectioU:' says Eccles. "Sip water throughout your flight to keep the sinuses hydrated, which helps them flush out anyviruses:' • AVOID ALCOHOL "Ifs a well-known saying among cabin crew that 'one drink in the air is worth two on the ground:' says Kahn. "If you drink on board, you become intoxicated very quickly, which further reduces the oxygen available to your brain, of which there is already 2 5% less than normal in the cabin dueto lower pressure. Those who are vulnerable to the effects of alcohol can find that a few drinks will give them a 'hangover' that lasts the whole flighf' If you must drink, only do so with a meal and avoid fizzy drinks, because gases trapped in your digestive system can expand and cause bloating and stomach pain. • EAT SPARINGLY Be careful what you eat. Your body is oxygen-deprived on a flight, and your digestive system requires a lot of oxygen to digest a heavy meal. Eating too much can stress your body, causing it to use up too much oxygen, further starving your brain. This leaves you v ulnerable to fainting and headaches. Choose water-filled foods (salads and fruit), which will contribute to hydration and aren't difficult to digest. Avoid beans, onions and cabbage to prevent bloating. "You shouldn't eat so much that you're not hungry when you land;' says Kahn, adding that "falling in'' with the next mealtime at your destination can help you adjust to that time zone. • EXERCISE Kahnrecommends 15

ONCE YOU'VE ARRIVED • TAKE IT EASY "It's important not to throw yourself into tiring activities when you arrive;' advises Eccles. "If your diet and sleep patterns have been disrupted and your stress levels raised, your immunity will have been compromised. And remember that you're encountering new bacteria and viruses constantly when you're abroad:' • SLEEP RIGHT Ifyou've flown eastwards, dorít sleep for more than 45 minutes during the day when you arrive - even if you're exhausted, advises Kahn. "Any longer is counter-productive in your attempt to adjust to the local time zone, and your body will merely try to catch up w ith lost sleep and resynchronise its clock to home time;' he warns. If you've flown west, stay up as late as you can when you arrive. Spending time in bright light before bedtime can help keep you awake longer. • ENJOY YOURSELF This is possibly the most important tip of all. After all, why else did you fly so far from home? \à. www.saasawubona .com 137

fs two o'clock on a bitterly co ld morning in the Northern Cape and Lionel Pedro is already on the road. ln the boot he has some sandwiches made by his wife for the kids he's picking up. Even at this early hour, children from some of the region's poorest areas are up and getting ready. Today theyare going to playin a golf tournament. Pedro is a manager of the South African GolfDevelopment Board (SAGDB), which was founded bytycoon Johann Rupert in 1999 as the official body for ali development initiatives in South African golf. There are 70 SAGDB managers and coaches working with 2 300 children between the ages of seven and 18 in the 14 golf unions around the country. Beyond the lush fairways and the countryclub atmosphere that many believe are simply an enclave for the privileged, golf remains one of the most powerful allies oflocal charities.

01 Since the early Nineties the Sanlam Cancer


Challenge has used golf to support the work of the Cancer Associa! ion of South Africa. 02 The official opening of the new clubhouse at the Soweto Country Club this year. 03 Sunsh ine Tour professional Jacquin Hess g ives advice to a keen young SAGDB golfer.


GOLF'S FAIR WAY FOR CHARITY Golf is often an easy target for those who believe it to be elitist anel benefiting only wealthy professionals. But the reality is that few sports contribute as much to charity as 90/f cloes/ especially in South Africa

138 Sawubona No'.ember 2017

When it comes to giving back, golf leads ali other sports glo bally. In South Africa, the spirit of giving back through golf is as strong as ever. Gary Player, an icon of the game, has said that he doesn't want to be remembered for his golf, but rather for the fact that he cared about his fellow human beings. "Thafs a far more important legacy than how many tournaments I was able to win or howwell I could hit a little white bali:' he says. Since the formation ofThe Player Foundation in 1983, Player has become the central figure in a global charity series oftournaments known as the Gary Player Invitationals, which are played annually in the UAE, the USA, the UK, Japan, China and South Africa. Player and his team rope in the biggest names in business, sport and entertainment to help raise money for various children's charities in these countries. So far they've raised more than $62 million and Player has set himself the goal ofreaching $100 million through what he calls the spirit of "golf and giving".


played in the Sanlam Cancer Challenge with his father when he was still a young amateur, says he's astounded by the support South Africa's golfers continue to give this event, which celebrates its 2sth anniversarythisyear. "To have kept this going for 25 years is incredible. You can never do enough to support charities, especiallywhen it comes to helping people with illness or disease:' he says. The reality is that almost every sector ofSouth African golf has a link to charity and development. Ernie Eis launched his Ernie Eis and Fancourt Foundation in the earlyNineties and it's produced manyof South Africa's top young professionals, including Louis Oosthuizen who, in turn,

GRATEFUL BENEFICIARIES The beneficiaries ofthe South African tournament - the Gary Player Invitational presented by Coca-Cola at Sun City- are Wildlands and Wings and Wishes. Wildlands empowers women to earn money from collecting rub bish. Lucrecia Mseleku from Cato Manor in KwaZuluNatal has used the money she earns from this programme to send her son, Wonder, to eThekwini Community College to study electrical engineering. Wings and Wishes provides transpor! so that critically ili children from impoverished areas can receive quality treatment. According to the organisation, the support from Player's series has helped some 2 000 children receive medical care. On the Sunshine Tour, the Vodacom Origins of Golf series always includes a golf clinic involving the professionals and children from the local SAGDB chapters. The power of this interaction is evident in the life ofJacquin Hess. ln 2008, Hess was one ofthe SAGDB kids who stood on the driving range, receiving instruction from Player. This year, now a Sunshine Tour professional himself, he stood on a range doing the sarne for another group ofyoung SAGDB golfers. "It's almost unreal for me to be workingwith these kids because I was one ofthem. I knowwhat this can mean to them - it meant a lot to me;' says Hess, a member of the Gary Player Class of2017-18, the SunshineTour's development squad for historically disadvantaged professionals, which benefits from SAG DB support. Each tournament also sees the sponsor donate R200 for every birdie made to its Birdies for Babies campaign, which benefits the three official charities: the Walter Sisulu Paediatric Cardiac Foundation, the New Beginningz Charity and the Smile

"GOLF TEACHES YOU SO MUCH ABOUT LIFE, SUCH AS RESPECT AND ETIQUETTE. EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE WITH GOLF. 11 Foundation. The amount raised at each event is always dose to RlOO 000. And it's not just the professionals who give back. Everyyear, the Sanlam Cancer Challenge raises millions of rands for the Cancer Association ofSouth Africa through its 800 nationwide club competitions, involving almost 40 000 amateur golfers. This year, the unheralded Magersfontein Memorial GolfEstate managed to raise more than R409 000 in a single golf day for this cause. Current professional Jbe' Kruger, who

has started his own Louis57 Academy to help young golfers. This year, Branden Grace donated Rl,5 million to the Gift ofthe Givers Foundation in aid of those affected by the Knysna fires, and George Coetzee raised enough money to make sure that an orphanage in Atteridgeville, west of Pretoria, could buy the home it was using rather than beingforced to relocate. "Their house was beingsold out from under them. I'm trying to do my bit to make it easier for som e of the people in this country;' Coetzee says. U..

GROWING THE GAME Golf's biggest challenges have always been lhe cosi of lhe equipment and lhe lime necessary to play it. South Nrican clubs are doing their best to address these issues in various ways as they seek to grow the sport and improve access to il. Bryanston Country Club, for example, offers free weekly golf lessons to lhe children of ~s members. ln Knysna, PGA of South Africa professional Peter Berman uses lhe popular SNAG golf programme to give golfa greater footprinl in schools. "Traditional school sports are free ai lhe point of entry. l've always had an issue with golf no! being free," says Berman, who has coaches working in five schools in lhe area. "The kids gel golf coaching during their physical education classes. lt's just an introdudion to golf, but if we can make golf pari of lhe school curriculum and introduce that fun asped early on, who knows how many more golfers we can unearth<'" AI St Francis Links in lhe Eastern Cape, CEO Jeff Clause will hold a nine.hole golf tournament on his award-winning golf course anda downhill skateboarding competition in the parking lo! to encourage people to see his golf club as a meeling place for lhe local community. ln Soweto, Sunshine Tour Chief Execulive Selwyn Nathan is driving a projecl to revive the Soweto Country Club for lhe benefit of lhe local commun ity With support from lhe privai e sector and lhe City of Johannesburg, they've already built a new clubhouse, a new pradice facility anda halfway house and are busy building a fence around lhe course, which will also be substantially upgraded. "This was justa shack when 1first started to play here," says Clifford Ndou, a young Sowetan professional. "The members of this shack supported me on my journey from a caddie here to becoming a professional. We need more children to become members of this club. Golf teaches you so much about life, such as resped and etiquette. Everything is possible with golf." 139


Precision meets luxury Swifzerland, land of opulence, legacy fimepieces, superb choco/ale, fine cheese and pure spring wafer, was fhe perfecf place fo launch fhe new model of a vehicle fhaf's synonymous wifh elegance, exacf engineering and world-class sfyle - fhe Mercedes-Benz 5-Class

WORDS: AURELIA MBOKAZI t's hard to imagine which cars world leaders chose to travei in before 1972, when the S-Class made its debut. ln the decades since. when you see a convoy of these classy vehicles you know that someone important is being ferried about in style. Despite its immense popularity. which has seen four million units sold worldwide and the S-Class clinching the title of2016's best-selling luxurysedan thanks to the healthy appetite of sophisticated Chinese customers. MercedesBenz isn't resting on its laurels. It remains driven to build the world's finest car and exceed ali expectations.


Thesetting The journey to theS-Class reveal began on a perfect dayin Zurich. The Dolder Grand, one of the city's most imposing landmarks. with a century ofhistory behind it, was the ideal location for motoringjournalists from around the world to immerse themselves in ali things luxurious. The hotel beautifullycombines architecture from a bygone era with modem. clean lines to create a striking building that is opulent without being intimidating. An area in the hotel was turned into an S-Class Ambience Lounge to pay homage to the car's 45-year-old history and to look forward to the future. It also provided an opportunity to sample Michelin-starred cuisine and local music. > 140 Sawvbona No\9mber 20 17 141


The experience We started our journey that crossed both Switzerland and Germany in an S 560 4MATIC. Mercedes-Benis attention to detail included providing sumptuous pillows to ensure comfort for back-seat passengers during the trip. With the promise ofthe speed limit-free autobahn in Germany, driving at between 50 and 80km/h on the Swiss leg of our adventure didn't put a dampener on things. It turns out that the S-Class isn't really the kind of car you want to race in, anyway - it's too elegant for that. And there was a lot to see on the country roads, including villages comprising neat chalet-style homes, rows of vineyards, manicured cornfields and any number of lakes and gushing rivers. Even when we finally hit the autobahn, the preference was to cruise and enjoythe luxurious interior ofthe vehicle, which could easily double as a plush office on wheels. The Energising Comfort Control, one ofthe new packages that ensures comfort on board bygrouping sensory features such as ambient lighting, fragrancing, climate control and the massage function, kept us relaxed on the three-hour drive to Airport Neuhausen in Germany. At the airport, we were given an opportunity to fully explore the S-Class's new technology.

The tech The proud Mercedes-Benz team shared that they had revamped over 6 500 components and added 1 600 completely new ones to the new S-Class. While it's hard to digest these kinds of figures, they made it very clear how 142 Sawubona November 2017

dose this new vehicle is to being autonomous thanks to ali this new tech. First up was the improved self-parking feature, which uses a multitude of internai cameras to identify an open parking spot, calculate whether the rather wide S-Class will fit and, if it will, the car parks itselfwith minimal effort from the driver. Smart! But it was the Intelligent Drive system that impressed the most on the roads around the airport. Utilising a combination of a camera anda map with navigation data, the car changes lanes, avoids obstacles, adjusts speed and maintains safe distances while the driver sits backand relaxes. The Aclive Emergency Stop Assistis another intelligent functionality created to save lives. When the vehicle detects that the driver is no longer reacting, this feature takes over and applies the brakes to bring the car to a standstill, immediately activating an emergency call and unlocking the car to allow escape or enable emergency personnel to access the occupants if necessary. With its comfort, intelligence and performance, it's easy to understand why the S-Class is the first choice o f presidents, business leaders and trendsetters worldwide. 'tl.. Mercedes-Benz S 560 4MATJC (long-wheelbase) Performance: 34SkW/700Nm 0-lOOkm/h: 4,6 seconds Maximum speed: 250km/h Carbon emissions: 200g/km


OUR BOOKSHELF THE WIDOW'S HOUSE BY CAROL GOODMAN (HARPERCOLLINS) • lt's been years since Jess Martin hit the big time with his first novel. His wife Clare tries to salvage his career, along with whatever is left of their crumbling marriage, by moving them back to their old college town to be caretakers of their former English professor's home. However, something haunts the walls of Riven House, which makes all its in habita nts suffer i n one form or another. Goodman captures the reader's imagination With this beautifully crafted novel that contains all the elements of the Gothic literary canon an old mansion, the eerie cry of

a baby in the early hours of the morning and the appearances of a ghost. This highly enjoyable and wellwritten novel is full of delightful IYVists and turns, leaving the reader to question the characters' motives. Despite these delightful elements, however, the storyline is a tad predictable. The novel also suffers because the author tries too hard to relate this classical form of writing to modern times with references to Twitter and Facebook, making the prose jarring and, ai times, hard to believe. Nevertheless, this is a compelling novel ifyou want a dose of Gothic mystery - Nompilo Nclovu





• Born in 1980 to a white mother and black father when South Africa's lmmorality Act was in force, Karoline was just over seven weeks old when her mo ther ela imed she needed urgent medical attention in the UK. Once there, she was given up for adoption and her mother returned to SA, claiming that

144 Sawubona November 20 l 7

she had died. Karoline's new parents, a white British couple, renamed her Sara-Jayne, effectively burying Karoline. This memoir follows SaraJayne's life in the south of England and her relationship with her adoptive parents and brother (also adopted). As s he matures, she becomes aware of issues of race and identity and slowly becomes consumed by what she sees as the ultimate rejection a child can face At the age of 26, SaraJayne returns to South Africa to find answers and attempt to escape the addictions that have taken over her life But, as she says, "there are no fairytales, there are no happy endings". King, now a journalist and radio presenter based in Cape Town, has written a brutally honest, but very readable me mo ir. - lngrid Wood

• Boswell strikes a fine balance in telling the story of Grace as a young girl in Cape Town in the turbulent l 980s and the woman she later becomes. Raised by a heavy-handed father who abused her mother, in an era when Casspirs roamed her neighbourhood, Grace's childhood was marred by violence. As an adult, something sinister seems to lurk beneath her seemingly placid, happy life and marriage. Despite attempts to suppress her inner turmoil, her traumatic history haunts her in unexpected ways when someone from her past re-enters her life with dire consequences. Through her characters - from loyal mothers to first loves who disappear Boswell details in elegant, rich prose how the past can have a firm hold on the present, highlighting the crippling legacy of violence and the need to let go of the past. A powerful story about the possibilityof healing alter abuse.

- Realeboga Makhokolo

BOOKS NO IS NOT ENOUGH: DEFEATING THE NEW SHOCK POLITICS BY NAOMI KLEIN (PENGU IN RANDOMHOUSE) â&#x20AC;˘ Klein, an acclaimed Canadian journalisl, is one of lhe mos! perceptive critics of contemporary culture. ln her lates! book she argues that Donald Trump's eleclion as US President was a corporate takeover rather than a political transilion. Klein says that inslead of being an aberralion, Trump's rise was lhe inevitable result of a long-term lrend of economic policies that disenfranchise millions, enrich a liny elite and destroy lhe natural environment. lntent on conlinuing this trend, Trump has populated his administration with opporlunists from the private sector who are notorious for pursuing profit ai all costs. She warns that these people are using shock tactics to generate wave after wave of crisis to force through radical policies that favour only lhe elite. However, Klein, an idealist ai heart, argues that it's no! enough to say "no" to the destructive thinking advanced by Trump's adminislralion. People need to rally behind a collective vision to replace the corrosive patterns of the past and present. She believes that those who dream of a better world need to seize this moment as an opportunity, no! jus! to resist, but also to collectively arliculate what a better world would look like. A thought-provoking read.



Defeating the New Shock Politics .-a.-

A CHAT WITH NIKI DALY Award-winning writer, editor and illustrator Niki Daly has jus! published Hooroyl Thoko, a children's book detailing the wonderful, life-affirming adventures of a little girl called Thoko. ln addition to English, the book is available in isiZulu, isiXhosa and Afrikaans Phakama Mbonambi talks to Daly aboul his enduring passion for children's literalure.

Why is it important to develop children's literature in South Africa? And what do you hope to achieve with your books?

a girl rather than a boy? Choice of gender and character is pari of my process, which involves writing as well as drawing. 1come lo my characters - or perhaps il's they who come to me - through drawing around a story idea. lntuition and imagination play a role. Regardless of gender, the kids in my books are always brave and up to lhe challenges l throw their way

Which age group are you targeting with Hooray! Thoko? Each

Firstly, it's importanl lo acknowledge lhe contribution made by children's authors and illustralors in the overall sphere of literalure. After all, children's books provide stepping stones towards reading and enjoying books as adults. A child who learns to love slories and reading ai an early age is enriched in a number of ways, such as the development of cognilive skills that improve their ability to focus and study For many years, black children either did nol have picture books or were offered those in which their realities were no! reflected Clearly there's a need for children lo read books that provide a wideopen window onto a changing world -a diverse worldl What 1hope to achieve through my storytelling is to champion kindness, caring, love and humour. Humour can be very powerful in getting serious messages across.


1 --~ ~ ~<\9l

Why was it important to make Thoko

story should be easily read by children in Grades 2 and 3, with some nice new words included, which 1hope extend their vocabulary 1 imagine Thoko to be eight years old. While girls are happy to read books that have a boy as the main character, there's some resistance from boys to reciprocate. Still, 1hope Thoko will find some fans among boys.

What do you hope this readership will take from Thoko'S adventures? 1hope they will take Thoko to their hearts and see heras a friend they would love lo have because of her good nature and lhe way she handles siluations. The slories have quite classical themes about choices Thoko and her family make in particular siluations, such as what to do when a neighbour is cruel to an animal, what to do when a los! ring is found, and handling opposilion and disappointment. ln other words, life's choices and consequences. '2.. 145

BRAIN TEASERS Place the answers to the clues given below into the g rid according to the number allocated. For example, if the clue is ai 1 Across, then the answer must be filled into the grid starting ai No 1. As you complete the pu=le, you'll lind clues to the answers running downwards.

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ACROSS 1. lime, gentlemen please, it's a near thing. (5, 4) 6. & 26 Superman or Garth maybe. (5, 5, 4) 9. Their deaths are proverbially seen in an attractive light. (5) 1O. One is taken out by the dentist? (9) 11. The price of beer or something in it. (7) 12. A beak rots strangely in a spirit. (7) 14. Odd pieces on one who is bound to help in particular. (1 O) 15. Act to make you look round. (4) 18. Detest an overhead direction. (4) 19. Quite upset- and of course, a girl started it. (5-5) 23. The twelfth man shut in as a gift. (7) 25. This sort of deal should always be tied up. (7) 26. See 6 Across. (4, 5) 27. Played and worked simultaneously. (5) 28. lt takes the sapper an age to come round and concur. (5) 29. Disclosed command on the barrack square. (4, 5)

21. Pretend to eat with the right to start a game of dominoes. (7) 22. A building, on your head be it. (6) 24. A mistake made by the printer? (5) 26. lt's all around us. (3)

DOWN 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 13. 16. 17. 20.

Friendliness on the Russian vessel? (11) Present like a billiard bali. (2, 3, 4) Settle comfortably in a men's concert hall. (8) The imbecility of the medical profession. (7) Unexaggerated feature of every Carmelite rally. (7) Rider gives a reason to take in fifty. (6) Back Tom or an engine. (5) Fish paid For ai your door. (3) He's sure to take an interest in his calling. (11) True of peanuts, naturally (9) Cais returned to another with nothing in music. (8) N ot resting, but declining. (2, 3, 2)

Find the words that connect each pa ir in the pu=le and write them in the space provided. We've solved the li rst connection to show you how it's done. The lirst letters of the solutions in the middle column will revea l a popular television show.




1 6 8 4 9 7 3 5 2

3 4 2 5 1 6 9 8 7

9 5 7 8 3 2 6 4 1

2 7 1 6 8 3 4 9 5

6 8 4 7 5 9 1 2 3

5 3 9 1 2 4 8 7 6

4 2 5 3 6 8 7 1 9

7 1 6 9 4 5 2 3 8

8 9 3 2 7 1 5 6 4

W:uds ln Words: Blow, lron, Gas, Blank, Red,


Opi nion, Talk, High, Exchange, Roll. Hiclden TV diow: BIG BROTHER


Brain Twister: 1. Africa. 2. lndia. 3. China. 4. Scotland. 5. Denmark. 6. Sweden. 7. Canada. B. France.

CROSSWORD: Across: 1. Closecall. 6. Comic. 9. Moths. l O. Extracted. 11. Alecost. 12. Rostrum. 14. Especially. 15. Turn. lB. Hate. 19. Topsy-turvy. 23. Present. 25. Package. 26. Strip hero. 27. Acted. 2B. Agree. 29. Open order. Down: 1. Comradeship. 2. On the spot. 3. Ensconce. 4. Amentia. 5. Literal. 6. Clause. 7. Motor. B. Cod. 13. Money-lender. 16. Unroasted. 17. Staccato. 20. On thego. 21. Suppose. 22. Temple. 24. Error. 26. Sea.

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DON'TTAKE THAT CALL! A visit to the Land of the Rising Sun taught me a lot about social etiquette

MY PHONE rangas

l absent-mindedly gazed out of a bus window in Tokyo, Japan. ICl arrived the night before and was travellingfrom Shinjuku to Shibuya. l immediately answered the call and, in my usual baritone, cheerfully informed my folks back in South Africa that ICl arrived safely. A few minutes into the call, with everyone else on the bus dead quiet, l couldn't help but feel the piercing stares of disapproval my fellow commuters were directing at me. Clearly, fd done somethingwrong. Feeling self-conscious, l abruptly ended the call while my grandmother on the other end was still on a roll. The first thing she'd said was: "Masego (my real name), bare o ko China (I hear you are in China):' I didn't have time to tell her l was in Japan, not China. l wasn't going to get into geographical explanations in the frostyatmosphere l found myself in, and l dou bt the distinction would have mattered to her anyway. Feeling awkward, l looked away from the stony faces of the other passengers, and that was when l saw a sign announcing that, out of consideration to fellow commuters, 01 Maps taking in the beauty of Japan. 02 TheAsakusa Bunka Kanko Centre, Tokyo. 03 The Kosho.ji Tem pie in Uji, Kyoto.

148 Sawubona November 2017

phone calls were not permitted on the bus and that phones had to be on silent mode. How did l miss this sign? Initially, l thought I'd attracted those stares because I looked physically different from anyone else for miles around. But no, that wasn't it. Really? ln South Africa, no-one thinks twice about answeringa phone on public transport, where you can overhear a fellow passenger's entire conversation, right down to the intimate details of their private life. ln taxis, some passengers even demand silence to better hear their caller. It's common to hear a loud: "Driver, ke kopa ofokotse volume!" ("Driver, please lower the volume!"). During my stay in Japan, other differences in social mores became evident. Punctuality, for example, is revered there. ln fact, I had been lucky to be on that bus. rn had to run three blocks to catch a 9.30am bus, which had arrived at 9.29am - that was my first faux pas. No other embarrassing cultural m istakes happened thereafter. After ali, l was not completely oblivious to such nuances. l was simply a guy adrift in the sea of another nation's culture. l was determined to learn and couldn't help noticing and, even chucklingat, a host of other differences. Tokyo is strikingly clean, despite millions of citizens flocking to its streets every day,

and there was no o bvious presence of dustbins. The Japanese get rid of their own trash, even ifit means carrying it ali dayand discarding it at home la ter. Cleanliness is ingrained from childhood. l considered S.A'.s inner cities, where litter is as abundant as the stars, and rubbish is commonly left beside the bins instead of inside them. While South Africans may match the Japanese in friendliness and politeness, the Japanese take honesty and helpfulness to a higher levei. A few days into my sojourn l forgot my phone on a bench in Uji train station after visiting that quaint city's ancient temples. Staff at my hotel assured me that it would be found and returned to me. "Don't worry, this is Japan;' l was told. l clung to those words and, sure enough, the phone was later found and kept safely for me until l collected it. l was impressed. The Japanese are amicable, cultured and considerate. There's thoughtfulness behind everything they do - and that's certainly something to bow down to. ~


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01 Paragliding over Cape Town. 02 Purser Frieda Makoba. 03 Posing with one of "New York City's fines!".

• How did you "meet" SAA? 1was acling in Grahamstown when 1saw a recruitment advert for the airline in the newspaper. 1applied and was hired as a Ground Staff Member.

• What do you love about your job? lt's a stage. And a chance lo make people happypassengers come first. You're also able lo sove someone's life if you need lo as we receive greal training,


a wonderful vibe and energy ai these festivais

Pari of team SAA since 1993, Purser FRIEDA MAKOBA is also a part-time actress and Cape Town's biggest fan. This bubbly, dedicated Cabin Crew member chats to us about her work and passion for flying

• Locally, you adore Cape Town. Why? There are four

thanks to SM. Recently, 1helped someone, nol realising he was a doclor, andai lhe end of lhe flight he thanked me for saving his life. li made me feel so proud, both personally and in terms of what the airline has taught me.

reasons my first-ever flight was to Cape Town, 1took my daughter there on holiday- we were in an advert together and then had a mini-break there and, finally, 1won a para-gliding trip to Cape Town!

There's something magicai about it. When 1visil Cape Town, 1can't believe how beautiful our country is. - Compíled by

Helen Clemson 'b.. • Tell us about the international destinations you love. New York, because 1gel to do all the things 1want to and it's a beautiful city However, 1also love Germany. 1spent l O months in Munich (1 flew in once a week), rehearsing for a musical theatre project called This New Ocean, performed by li ight crew from different airlines, such as SM, Lufthansa, ANA and Siberian Airlines. The scenery in Germany is very beautiful, the people are great and 1 love the beer festivais Visil even if you don't drink beer as there's

15 6 Sawubona November 20 l 7


My cellphone and a universal adaptor, as well as my laptop. 1also recommend carrying a notepad. Always pack comfy shoes for the plane. 1also make sure 1have a book lo read. Try lo relax even if you can't sleep on long-haul fl ights, and remember lo pack snacks lo nibble on. 1recommend carrying supplements like Vitamin to keep you healthy and so you don't have lo purchase them. Also carry paracetamol.





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AIRBUS A320-200, A3 l 9-l 00 AND BOEING B737-800 SAA offers in~light entertainment on all domestic and regional flights. This content is updated fortnightly and features the best travei shows from Africa and around the globe, along with popular lifestyle, cooking and cultural programmes. Each journeywill also include a selection of technology, business, arts and entertainment features, along with a bespoke SAA Events Diary featuring programmes from all over South Africa for your enjoyment. Although programmes are subtitled, audio is aclive on all programmes and you are welcome to use your own headsets/earphones. Please take note of the Restricted ltems section contained within the Safety Guide section at the back of this Sawubona magazine.

OUTBOUND FROM SA ALl REGIONALS Action, adventure • 93 m in • PG-13 edited • English • ldris Elba, Matthew McConaughey The las! gunslinger, Roland Deschain, battles with Walter O'Dim, also known as the Man in Black, in an attempt to preveni him from toppling the Dark Tower, which holds the universe together.


AFAMILY MAN Drama • l 08 min • R - edited • English • Gerard Butler, Alison Brie A headhunler whose life revolves around closing deals in a survivalof-the-fittest boiler room battles his top rival. Unfortunately, his dream of owning the company clashes with lhe needs of his fam ily.

OUTBOUND FROM SA OUTBOUND FROM SA (Additional selection will be played su bject to leng th of fl ig ht)

UFE AS WE KNOW IT Romance, comedy • 113 min • PG-13 - edited • English • Katherine Heigl, Josh Duhamel Holly and Eric, two single adults with a shared enm ity, becom e caregivers lo an orphaned baby when their mutual best friends die in an accident. '>



,,,,.,!l!J3i'Jllll BABYDRIVER

Action, crime• 110 min • R - ed ited • English • Ansel Elgorl, Lily James A talented young getaway driver must face the music when a doomed heis! threatens h is 1ife, love and freedom.


HAMPSliAD Comedy, romance • 102 min • NRed ited • Engl ish • Diane Keaton, Brendan Gleeson An American widow finds unexpected love with a man living rough on Hampstead Heath when they take on the developers who want to destroy his home.

lHE lRIP TO SPAIN Com edy • l 03 m in • PG-1 3 edited • English • Steve Coogan, Rob Brydon Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon embark on a road trip through Spain, visiling the reslauranls and ealeries they come across and exploring the sights.





(Airbus A319/ A320 and Boeing B737-800)

(Outbound and inbound to SA)

This conlent is updated fortnightly and fealures a wide selection of program mes, bring ing you a variety of lifestyle, travei, business and sports fealures. Although programmes are subtitled, audio is aclive on all program mes and you are welcome to use your own headsets/earphones. Please take note of the Restrided ltems section contained within the Safety Guide ai the back of this Sawuoona magazine.

Our shorl programm ing compilation features a selection of themed content ranging from the best travei shows from Africa and around the globe, popular lifestyle and destination programmes topped with some local cooking and sports shows. These compilations also include internai promolions from Voyager, updated route maps and SMs Events Diary fealuring popular upcom ing events from around South Africa for your en joym ent. Please note that differenl programming is screened on your outbound and inbound journeys.

158 Sawubona November 2017

Drama• 108 min • R - edited • English • Gerard Butler, Alison Brie A headhunter whose 1ife revolves around closing deals in a su rviva 1-of-th e-f i llest boiler room battles his top rival. Unfortunately, his dream of owning the company clashes with h is fam ily 's need s.



• • • •

• • • •

Secure your smartphone by enabling the lock screen and security function, be it a pattern password or fingerprint screen lock. Where possible, don't save any sensitive personal information or bank account details on your electronic devices. Think before you download apps to your mobile or tablet devices. Do not bypass built-in security measures by "rooting" your device. Only download mobile apps from secured and trusted sou rces. Read the access requirements before you accept the software installation (android permissions) of new apps. lnstall mobile security and antivirus software from a trusted security vendor. Disable the "Sharing" function on your mobile device if not needed. Enable the settings to remotely locate and factory reset your electronic devices. Keep your mobile device and its antivirus software up to date with the latest security patches. Encrypt the data on your device where possible.

• •

• •

Disable any wireless connection settings (e.g. Bluetooth, Wi-Fi and NFC) when you're not using them. Disable your push notification settings on mobile devices if not needed. After completing your transactions, ensure that you sign out of your Online Banking session and dose your browser. 1f possible, also power off your PC. This is especially im portant i f you share the device with other people and at public locations . Do not log into a computerwith administrator rights unless you must doso to perform specific tasks. (Practice the Principle of Least Privilege (PoLP).) Ensure that all personal Wi-Fi networks are password protected and that all the necessary security settings are enabled . Do not use easily hackable security configurations like WEP. Rather use the more recent and secure configura ti o n s. Avoid making transactions on public Wi-Fi networks. Don't send passwords or account login credentials over public or unsecured Wi-Fi networks.


• • •

• •

Use strong passwords for all your accounts. Change your password regularly and never share it with anyone. Don't use any Personal ldentifiable lnformation (Pll) as a password, user ID or personal identification number (PIN). Be wary of email attachments and free software from unknown sources . Be mindful of how much personal information you share on social networking sites. Always set the privacy settings on your social media profiles to the highest level possible.


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AUDIO SELECTION AIRBUS A340600/300E, A340-200, B737/ A319,A330-200,A340-300

INlHE MIX A330-200 - Channel 6 A340-300 - Channel 7 Th is channel offers the best of the dance scene, with a mix of classic dance hits and explosive rem ixes from artisls such as The Weeknd, Nick Jones, Major Lazer and many others.

KJDS' ZONE A330-200 - Channel 7 A340-300 - Channel 8 Keep your little ones entertained and happy with some of their favourile fables and songs. There is a wide selection of nursery rhymes and muchloved playground songs to keep them occupied.



A340-600/300e - Channel 11 A330-200 - Channel l A340-300 - Channel l Sit back, relax and enjoy the best of Cantonese and Mandarin pop for two blissful hours, with great artists such as Leo Ku, Andy Lau and many more.

A340-600/300e (Golden Years) A330-200 - Channel 3 A340-300 - Channel 4 This high-energy compilation takes you on a journey back to lhe '90s, '80s and beyond. With all-time favourites like Paul Young, R Kelly and Britney Spears, this compilation is power-packed.

ClASSICS A340-600/3 OOe (Com for! Zone) A330-200 - Channel 2 A340-300 - Channel 2 Listen to lhe magnificent composilions of som e of the mos! intriguing classical works of all lime. Join Classic FM presenter John Brunn ing for h is selection of personal favourites.

NUMBER 1$ A340-600/300e (Encore) A330-200 - Channel 9 A340-300 - Channel 3 Tune inlo this exclusive compilation, featuring crilically a nd com merc ial ly successful col labora li ons over th e years, which were created by some of the greatest artisls of all lime. 160 Sawubona No\em ber 20 l 7

MADE IN SA A340-600/300e (One Nation) A330-200 - Channel 8 A340-300 - Channel 9 Take a two-hour journey with the legends of South African music, such as the Kongos and Kaylow.



A3 40-600/300e (Showcase) A330-200 - Channel l O A340-300 - Channel l O The recent demand for Afropop chart music has led to the rise of a number of African mega-stars. You'll find lhe mos! contemporary artisls from West East Africa on this compilation, which is presented by DJ Waxxy.

A340-600/300e (Chart Attack) A330-200 - Channel 5 A340-300 - Channel 6 Hit Express keeps you up to date with the best in new music by presenting you with lhe songs that make lhe world's charts. Discover great new tracks from Harry Styles, The Chainsmokers and DJ Khaled brought to you by DJ Sunsh ine.

A330-200 - Channel 12 A340-300 - Channel 11 Relax with the bes~loved h its of th is genre, Alicia Keys, Jamiroquai and many other stars make th is a must-hear programme that you won't want to end. A must-hear for soul music lovers.

HINDI HITS A330-200 - Channel 4 A340-300 - Channel 5 Th is show brings you foottapping !unes from Bollywood, with a mix of songs from recent a nd cl ass ic movies.


A330-200 - Channel 13 A340-300 - Channel 12 Enjoy two hours ofwonderful operatic works from the opera's leading composers and perform ers, in clu d in g Sir Col in Davis, Luciano Pavarotti and James Levine.

WORLD OF JAZZ A340-600/300e Wazz Notes) A330-200 - Channel 14 A340-300 - Channel 13 Listen to lhe greatest musicians of the jazz world on this timeless programme, which includes som e of the genre's mos! beloved smooth, classic and Latin jazz.

RAISED ON ROCK A330-200 - Channel 11 A340-300 - Channel 14 Buffs of old-school rock are sure to find more than a few of their favourite songs on th is 1ine-up presented by Claire Sturgess. The line-up includes AC/DC, Bruce Sprin g steen an d th e inim itable Elvis Presley.

THE NATIONAL SCHOOL OF GOVERNMENT The Na!ional School of Govemmen! (NSG) is esfablished in ferms of lhe Public Service Ac!, 1994 (as amended) wilh a legal manda!e!o provide orfacili!a!e (he piuvision oftraining in lhe public service. The School was officially launched by the Minisfer for Pu blic Service and Admin is!rafion on 21 Ocfober 2013. The launch da!e was in line with the Presidential Piuclamation (No. 46 of 2013) sig ned by the President of the Republic of South Africa to amend the Public Service Act by renaming PALAMA as the National School of Government, and re-designafing lhe Director-General as the Principal. The NSG provides generic compulsory and demand-<lriven training focused on impiuving training and learning in lhe leadership,

management and



fron!-line services) leveis in the public service. The School also piuvides compulsory ind uction to all newly . appoinfed unemployed

public servanfs, you!h







for in!ernship,

learnership and employmen! opportunifies in the public service, fowards lhe piufessionalizafion of (he public service

The provision of training activities is carried out through a blended appiuach of face-to-face classiuom learning and lhe use of mediated technology (eleam ing).Train ing is facili!a!ed through the ufilization of curren! publicservants, independent individual con!rac!ors, and partnerships

The School also undertakes research on public service

wilh higher educafion ins!itu!ions and sec!or colleges and provincial academies. Ali training activi!ies

training, and carries ou! training needs analyses in order to determine lhe leaming needs ofindividuals and ins!i!ufions. lt

are monfored and evaluafed lhiuugh the complefion of feedback questionnaires by all leamers, in

also desig ns, develops and q uali!y assu res curriculum for piugrammes and courses, which are aligned fo govemment priori!ies and public service policy frameworks. The School worl<s in close c0-0pera!ion wi!h accrediting bodies such as lhe Public Service Sector Educa!ion and Training Au!hori!y (PSETA) and the Quali!y Council for Tradesand Occupations (QCTO) to enable lhe accredifafion of certain piugrammesl courses aligned to the Na!ional Qualifica!ions Frameworl<

orderto improve the standards and quali!y ofthese acfivifies. The School also manages the leamer records for all learners of the various programmes/ courses in order !o allow the issuance of certificafes of attendance and compefence. ln!ernationally, lhe NSG also partners wi!h countries and ins!itu!ions fowards


building and

knowledge exchange. These include insfi!u!ions such as lhe African Managemen( Developmen! lnsfi!u(es' Ne!worl< (AMDIN). lhe Chinese Academy of Governance (CAG) lhe European Union and GIZ amongs! o!hers.

(NQF). Currently, lhe School has a !o!al of 130 piugrammesl courses, 9S ofwhich are accredifed wi!h lhe relevant bodies.

CONTACT US Switchboard: +2712 441 6000 General facsimile: +2712 441 6030 Con!ac! Cen!re: +27 S6100 8326


school of government Oepa1tme1t: N~bütal $.:;nc-01 c.f G·~\'é'llf"'E!l'l


E-mailAddress: Con!ac!Centre@! ZK Matthews Building, 70 Meinlje S!r, Sunnyside, Pretoria.




Voyager Mi les are awarcled when using lhe services á lhe fdlowing Voyager partners:

THE BEST-IN-CLASS AND AFRICA-FIRST REVENUE-BASED FREQUENT FLYER PROGRAMME SAA Voyager, Africa's first revenue-based airline loyalty programme, offers members miles based on the ticket price purchased rather than the distance travelled, and allow members to spend their miles on any available ticket price (base fare and carrier imposed fees) for flights operated by SAA. Voyager remains as dedicated to upholding lhe sarne high standards of customer service as it has been for decades.



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You're invited lo join our programme and earn 2 500 Bonus Miles when you regisler and have accrued your firsl aclivity. Your current flight will qualify for miles if submitted within 13 months from the date of travei. Always ensure you quote your unique Voyager membership number at the point of sale for your miles to accrue systemalically.


EARNING AND SPENDING MILES The programme offers its more than 2,5 million members earning and spending of miles (the programme's reward currency) from 67 programme partners. The programme boasts more than 39 airline parlnerships, including lhe Star Alliance global airline alliance, which gives members access lo more than l 300 deslinalions in 190 countries. The evolution of Voyager has seen the programme expand from being a lraditional frequent flyer programme by diversifying its offering lo include more than 28 non-airline parlners in categories ranging from travel-related partners to lilestyle, relail, property and financial services. Members are issued with one Voyager Mile for every Rl ,60 spent on SAA-operated flights, with a minimum return of 5% for SAA-operated flights based on their SAA spend. The introduction of lhe popular JourneyBlitz redemption seat sales, where members enjoy discounls of up lo 85% on SAA-operated flights, confirms lhe programme's resolve to offer products that build loyalty and goodwill to the benefit of valued members. For these awards, members are required to pay separately for fax, regulated charges and carrierimposed fees. Various non-airline redemption options are available and members enjoy returns of 2,5-5% based on their SAA spend.

UNIQUE FEATURES • Revenue-based frequent flyer programme. • Members have access to lhe Star Alliance global ai rline alliance network, allowing wide oplions for earning and redeeming of miles and lounge access for Star Gold card members. • Multi-lier membership leveis: Blue, Silver, Gold, Platinum and Lifetime Platinum, ofwhich the latter is unique and lhe most coveted status in lhe ai rline industry. • Members can extend their expiring miles year afteryear by accruing a minimum of 6 000 SAA miles. • A Liletime Platinum member's partner or spouse qua lifies for a Gold Card when meeting lhe required annual mileage thresholds. • Dynamic redemptions on SAA-operated flights have no capacity constraints and miles are converted to cash to pay for base fare and carrier i mposed fee. • Additional benefits for higher-tier members include lounge access with guesls, chauffeur service with companions, extra baggage allowance, lier-based bonus miles, priority waiti ng list, pre-seati ng with access to preferred seati ng, exemplion from paying for chargeable seals for Platinum and Lifetime Pia ti num members and priority check-in, ai rporl standby, boarding and baggage handling.


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Nothing earns you SAA Voyager Miles faster. With your SAA Voyager credit card you can: • Earn one Mil e for every R6 10 0 of eligible spend!' on your S.AA Voyager Americo:n Express<=i C redit Co:rd. • 19 000 Bonus Miles on your first SAA ticket purcho:sed on your co:rd, which is awo:rded on completion of tro:vel. • Access to SAA-owned Premium cfopo:rture lounges when you travei on SAA-operated flights or SAA m arketing f lights where Mang o is the operating carrier. • One complimentary SAA Continental Companion Tick12t p12r calendaryear ('1 J anuary -31 December) when you achieve a spend thresh old of R100 000 1 ora complimentary Global Companion Ticket when you reach a spend th resh old of R200 000. N o class r estrictions.

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N.edbar. k Umit.ed No 1'9Sl/000009/06. Authoris.ed financia 1 services and<:lit (NCRCP16).



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Secure Duty Free Shopping - Online! Airports Company South Africa's online Duty Free shopping portal ( offers international travelers the chance to purchase limited-edition and travelexclusive products, onUne - safely, securely and at great prices. Whether you're looking for high...end luggage, stunning souvenirs from Africa, intemational confectionery brands, or beauty & fragrance products, you'll find them ali online at Memories of Africa: Out of Africa represents the ultimate African shopping experience, offering exquisite handcrafted products from across the continent, ranging from colourful designer jewellery, unique homeware & clothing, to authentic artefacts & souvenirs. TUMI aeates world-class business and travel es.sentials, designed to uncomplicate and beautify all aspects of Life on the move for global citizens. Blending flawless functionality with a spirit of ingenuity, TUM 1is committed to empoweringjourneys as a lifelong partnerto movers and makers. Big Five Duty Free offers a host of Duty Free and travel exdusives, induding whiskies from johnnie Walker, Glenmorangie and Jameson, confectionary from Camille Bloch, Ferrero and Lindt, as well as limited-edition cosmetics from Paco Rabanne, Bvtgari, LancĂľme and Dolce & Gabbana. allows visitors travelling through Johannesburg's O.R. Tambo lntemational Airport to make Duty Free purchases online, 72 hours before departure - and collect their items at the airport before jetting offto their intemational destination. Registering on the portal is quick, simple and secure - customers simply need to enter their ticket and flight details to complete the purchase and can then pick up their prepackaged orders in the stores in the Duty Free area, from which they made their purchases. There's also a 'Buy Now, Collect Later' option, which allows passengers making purchases from Big Five Duty free on to collect them at the Big Five Duty Free satellite store at lntemational Arrivals at O.R. lambo lntemational Airport, on their retum to the country. Shopping on is sea.ire, thanks to 3D seaJre authentication, whidi means that users must authenticate transactions before they are completed. No credit card details are stored on the site, or shared with a 3rd party. will soon be expanding to indude an offering of Duty Free products from Cape Town lntemational Airport as well, giving travelers visiting The Telegraph's 'Best City in the Wortd', the chance to take home a piece of Africa.






tar Allia nce is the w orld's first and largesl alliance, offer ing international travel lers a unique network that brings 2 8 member airlines together to provi de over 21 900 fl ights a day to over l 3 2 8 deslinations in more than 195 countries around lhe w orld. Planning your trip and w ant to relax in one o f the loung es in our network? Use

the Lounge Finder to browse through the entire Star Alliance lounge network and find lounges at specific airports. Wi th over 1 000 lounges, w orldwid e lounge access is just pari of the Star A lliance commitment to making your journey as enjoyable as possible. Passengers travelling o n interna ti onal First C lass or Busi ness C lass have


access to the Star A lliance network, irresp ective of membersh ip sta tus. The Lounge Fi nder includes all lounges operated by Star A lliance member carriers, all Star A lliance lounges (C DG, LAX, LHR, N GO, EZE) and all third-party lounges contracted by Star A lliance member carriers. Access rules are based on the G lobal Star A lliance Lounge Access Policy.



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CUSTOMISED IPAD APP Star Alliance has expanded its mobile device o fferi ng by introducing the customised N avigator to complement the existing iPad app. Th e hallmark of the new tool is a n interactive 3 D globe that visually depicts the 28-0irli ne network of more than 21 900 daily fl ights covering l 3 2 8 w orldw ide destinations. New to any Star Al liance w eb or mobi le offering is lhe "My Trip" feature, w hich enab les customers to store and monitor their Alliance fl ight itineraries and is only available on lhe N avigator iPad app. The app was created by SapientN itro and can now b e downloaded via w or directly from lhe App store.

164 Sawubona November 20 17


Do Vou



SMU? )

Medical Doctors Rad iogra p hers Pharmacists Scientists Nurses Physiotherapists Speech Language Therapists / Aud iol ogists Occupational Therapists Dieticians Dentists Dental Therapists and Oral Hygienists



O sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University





ur domeslic market has an extensive schedule with a C> total of 554 fl ig hts per week from Johannesburg to Cape Town, Durban, East London and Porl Elízabeth. We've also extended our code-share agreement with Mango, our low-cosl operator, to include coastal cilies in SA (belYVeen Johannesburg and Cape Town, Durban, Por! Elizabeth and George), as well as Johannesburg-Bloemfonlein, Cape Town-Bloemfontein and Cape Town-Port Elizabeth. Regionally, SM offers 24 destinations across the African continent, including Abidjan, Accra, Blantyre, Brazzaville, Cotonou, Dakar, Dar es Salaam, Douala, Entebbe, Harare, Kinshasa, Lagos, Libreville, Lilongwe, Livingstone, Luanda, Lusaka, Maputo, Maurilius, Nairobi, Ndola, Pointe Noire, Victoria Falis and Windhoek. SA/ú internalional nelYVork creates links to all major continents from our country through eight direct roules and code-share flights, with dailyflights fromJohannesburg to






Frankfurt, Hong Kong, London (Heathrow), Munich, New York UFK), Perth, São Paulo and Washington (Dulles) We have code-share agreements with 29 other airlines across lhe markets we serve. SM is a member of Star Alliance, which offers more than 18 500 daily flights to l 321 airports in 193 counlries. SAA has won the "Best Airline in Africa" award in lhe regional category for 15 consecutive years. Mango and SAA hold the No l and 2 spots as SA's mos! on-li me airli nes.

•AI/ information correct at lime of going to print.



1450 -~--" 15:45

17:10 805

1050 13:25 1040 13:00 1010


17:50 2030 22,JO

----"° 204·5"· - - - - -== 00:30 1445 22: 15 1030

13 o

0950 1235 - - - - .,..4-:30 17: 15 166 Sawubona November 20 l 7




REGIONAL 78 84 84 84 86 86 87' 87 90 90 91 91 96 97 142 143 144 145 146 147 160 16 1 162 163 170 17 1 172 17 3 180 181 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 190 19 1 191 192 193


' 2 1:25 04: 10 20:25 22 :20 18:35 20:15 22:1 0 05 :00 18:35 2 1:05 06:20 23:45 12 :35 15 :45 10 :40 12 :30 14:50 16 :40 2 1:15 08 :35 14 ·30 18:30 19 :00 10 :15 12 :20 15 :30 12 :30 15 :40 20:30 11:40 15:00 18:50 14:50 18:05 1735 08: 30 16 :25 15 :40 19 :35 18:50 14:40 17:50

4 4 2






PLEASE NOTE: • Day 1 = Monday • lnternalional Aircraft Types: Airbus A340-600, A340-300e, A330-300 or A330-200. *Regional Aircraft Types: Airbus A3 19-1 00, A320-200 or Boeing B73 7-800 - except for Accra, Dakar, Lagos and Luanda where an Airbus A340-600, A340-300e, A330-300 or A330-200 may be used. 167



• Calgary Yancouver • • StJohn's


• •

• Toronto


• Halifax


New York Washinglon, DC



any counlry on lhe globe and connecling people and culturas. Thls has resulted in languages being spread wldely as people move from one country lo another. lt's eslimaled lhal lhere are between 6 000 and 7 000 languages in the world, but the l O mosf comrnon rnay surprlse you. According to language website www., the top five languages are Chinesa, followed by Spanlsh, English, Hindi and Arabic, Portuguesa, Russlan, Bengali, Japonese and Punjabi.

São Paulo


South African Airways • Air Canada • Air China Air New Zealand All Nippon A irways e Asiana A irli nes e EgyplAir

168 Sawubono November 20 l 7

• •

Ernirales Ethiopian Airline e Lufthansa e RwandAir • Singapore Airlines e Swiss • Virgin Ausfralia



• •


Nar ita

Nagoya Haneda Osaka

.• ~

Hon Kong

London \ Zurich

e Frankfurt ce Munich

• Singapore

Cairo • Dubal

• Addis Aboba


Cape Town

____. . .,. _,,.

• Brisbane

Perth Adelaide •

The routes reflected on the maps are an illustrative graphic portrayal of our route network for information/entertainment purposes only and do not replicate actual navigational llight paths. • All information was correct ai ti me of going to print.

• Sydney

Melbourne Wellington



The French-African connection lf you thought Mandarin was the fastest-growing language in the world, you're wrong - and the reason lies in Africa. Due to the projected population growth and the economic development of northern and sub.Saharan African countries, many of which are Frenchspeaking, some experts predict that French will be the most-spoken language in the world by 2050 -with 750 million people expected to be using it by then. So if you're planning to do bu siness in A frica in the future, learning French might be a wise investment. Bonne chance!



Dares Salaam



= Q

Lilongwe • Blantyre

• stHelena



5 <C


....:e• ai=:



• ~ ..... •




e ..... e ..... e


Walvis Bay

Airlin k Rwa ndAir South African Airways SAA/Mango Code-share between Johannesburg/Lanseria and Cape Town, and Cape Town and Durban South African Express

170 Sawubona Novembe r 20 17



Port Elizabeth

AIRUNK LODGE LINK serves va rious game reserves, w ith llights between Nelspruit, Ngala, Skukuza, Phinda, Ulusaba , Arathusa and Londolozi.



Bus Station .... Hotel


Petrol Station

B Car Rental O


CD lnformation 191 Restaurants O Lounge KJNG SHAKA INTERNATIONAL (DURBAN) Getting around King Shaka lnternational (KSIA) King Shaka lnternational A irport Durban is ou r state-of-the-art airpo rt located 35km north of the city.

KSIA Durban offers an enticing range of restau rants,






bars and shops. The passenger term inal is loca ted ai the southern end of the airport precinct and is split into two leveis: arrivals are handled on the lower lloor and departures on the upper one.

Parking Parking is available in both open-air and shaded areas.



OR TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (JOHANNESBURG) Getting around OR Tambo lnternational The Central Terminal Building is designed to give passengers a smooth and uninterrupted travei experience. The various check-in and departure procedures, including transfers, all take place in this terminal building. The new international pier, with its double-level structure, has increased the number of holding lounges and boarding gales.

General information lnformation desks are located in all terminais.

SAA Airport Lounges Lounge facilities are available for First and Business C lass SM passengers.

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL Getting around CPT lnternational The Central Terminal Building lin ks to both Domestic and lnternational A rrivals and Departu res. The a irport is compact and the termina l b uild ings are linearly positioned, which makes wal king between term inais quick and easy.

Parking Free shuttle ca bs are available between the terminais a nd the pa rki ng areas.

SAA Airport Lounges Lounge fac ilities are available for First and Business C lass SM pa ssengers. 17 1



e EgyptAir

Airways e Airlink e AirChina • Air Maurilius Air N ew Zealand All Nippon Airways Air Seychelles e Asiana Airlines

e Emirates e

e e

Ethiopian Airlines LAM Mozambique RwandAir Singapore Airlines South African Express TAP Portugal Virgin Auslralia

Cairo •

Sharm-el• Sheikh

Luxor •

• Dubai






Libreville Pointe Brazzaville Noi_re __. ....--- •• Kinshas Dar es Salaam Praslin Mahé lsland

• Nosy Be

Antananarivo •

172 Sawubona November 20 l 7

Mm.rilius ~.




Nagoya Osaka



Ancientand sacred tongues Some of the world's oldest languages, which are still in use, originated in the Middle and For East. The most common is Arabic, spoken by about 280 million people in the middle east and North Africa. The language's importance can also be attrib uted to the fact that the central religious text of lsla m - the Q ur' an- is only allowed to be written in A rabic. O ther common languages are Hebrew, Farsi and Turkish. The latter two have numerous dialects, making for a rich linguistic tapestry across the region.

Narita Haneda




Hong Kong

• Auckland



Brisbane •

Perth • " Sydney •


Melboume 173


Edmonton •




• Portland




San Francisco




Charlotte .,e

Arabic on the rise


San Diego

St John's


. • Detroi~ ~.Toronto Halifax Chicago .., Cleveland , ._ Kansas lndianapolis PI! b • h• • ~ e •~.ew York City e • • 1 s ~rg • Phil crei J hia St Louis Colurnbus Wash1~0 on, D

... Las Vegas

Los Angeles ...


• • Seattle


• Dallas New Orleans


Ho~on t e

Did you know that the fastest-growing language in the USA is Arabic2 This spread is linked to i rnrnigration frorn North African and Middle Eastern countries. lt's esti rnated that l, l rnillion people livi ng in lhe USA speak Arabic ai horne - up 29% since 20 l O- and that of this nurnber, 38% are not proficienl in English. English rernains the rnost cornrnonly spoken language in lhe USA, due in pari to the fact that it was original~ a British colony However, Spanish, Korean, Vietnarnese, French, Gerrnan and Chinese are also spoken widely, as are Russian, ltalian, Portuguese and Hindi.


Tampa ~ • Fort Lauderdale • Miami

Fortaleza Juazeiro do Norte

Johannesburg lirro•

Brasil ia Cuiabá Goiânia

Am.ckt1 •

lguazu Falis




e South African Airways e Air Canada e Ethiopian Airlines • JetBlue Cities served beyond New York UFKJ and/or Washington, DC (Dulles)

174 Sawubona November 20 l 7

e United Airlines Cities served beyond New York UFK) and/or Washington, DC (Dulles) TAM Airlines

Merw:lozo •

Sontogo •

lo Poz

81.E'!no::Aira-s •

Recife lv\aceió Salvador


@ Train Stafon


Bus Station -



Petrol Station

Car Rental

O Parking


181 Restaurants f!) Lounge

Terminal 3


te! F



le! 181

GUARULHOS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (SÃ&#x192;O PAULO) Terminal information GRU Airline South A frica n A irw ays Code SA Terminal 3* *SAA operates to and from Terminal 3

181 VIP Lounges



Pier occess

DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (WASHINGTON) . Terminal information WAS/IAD Airline South African Airways Code SA Terminal Concou rse B* *SAA operates to and from the lnternalional Conoourse B

Airlrain @





CD 181



o.--~ Concourse D (D

B24 B25

. - - - - - - -.........___...........L-_~~-~

Terminal 4 Concourse

B26 B27

Concourse B - (!)


Pedestrian walk'M'.ly




Infernal ional Arrivals building

JOHN FKENNEDY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (NEW YORK) Terminal informalion JFK Airline South A frican A irways Code SA Terminal 4 * *SAA operates to and from Terminal 4 Departing SM passengers use the Swiss/Sta r A lliance Lounge (ai rsid e) o n the fourth floor a djacent to the TSA sec urity chec kpoint. 175


e e e e e

South African Airways Etihad Ai rways Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Swiss TAP Portugal






1 Copenhagen Manchester Dublin




I• ...



Amsterdam B e Hanover remen Berlin Münster e . . Poderborn Le1pz1g Dresden Dusseldorf e cologne


e e e

e e


Frankfurt ·~


Nuremberg e stuttgart

en e



Zurich Geneva e








Languages of Europe


There are 23 recognised languages in the European Union, but around 60 dialects, regional and minority languages are spoken across the continent. The most common languages are English, German, Ru ssia n, French and ltalian. French stands out, however, as it is predicted to be the language of the future, sei to overtake tv\a ndarin, Arabic and perhaps even English. Quick fact: Russian and English are the most commonly used languages in science, with over 90% of scientific papers published in these languages.


Cape Town 176 Sawubona November 20 17




@ Train Starion

Bus Station -


Petrol Station

Car Rental




181 Restaurants O Lounge

HEATHROW AIRPORT (lHR) SAA now operates to and from London Heathrow's new Terminal 2 , The Gueen's Terminal. Check-in For SAA is in Zone D on the departures levei. Note that most SAA llights w ill a rrive into, and depart from, the gales situated in Termin al 2B.

Central Bus Station



Terminal 2B

Zone B Zone C

a.\ U

<D Zone D


MUNICH AIRPORT The South African Airways check-in counters are situated in Terminal 2, Levei 3 . The airport which has been awarded live-star status by Skytrax provides a central area, the Munich Airport Center, which offe rs ticket a nd check-in cou nters, a variety of shops and restaurants, as well as banks and tax-refund counters.

Terminal 1

Terminal 2

Mun1ch Airpcrt Centre


Passenger veh1cles






o o t <D Terminal 2 Plaza



Buses, tax1s

Piar Sol.Ah




To Term inal 2

The South A frican Ai rways check-in counters are loca ted in Terminal 1, Levei B. ln addition , quick check-in machines are availab le close to the reg ular check-in counters. The Airport City Mali on the A rrivals Levei in Terminal 1 p rovides restaurants, shops and car-rental facilities. 177




SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS BOEING 737 FREIGHTER • Numberofaircraft 3. Maximum cargocapacity 18 OOOkg. Overall length 33m. Wing span 29m. Overall height l l ,2m. Maximum fuel capacity 20 0001. Typical cruising speed 780km/h


AIRBUS AJ 19-100 • Numberofaircraft 7. Maximum passengers 120. Overall length 33,84m. Wing span 34,09m Overall height 11 ,76m. Maximum fuel capacity 23 8601. Typical cruising speed 820km/h

AIRBUS A320-200 • Number cl aircraft 12. Maximum passengers 148. Overall length 37, 57m. Wing span 34, l m. Overall height 11 m. Maximum fuel capacity 23 8601. Typical cruising speed 820km/h

• • :

BOEING 737-800 • Numberofaircraft 6. Maximum passengers 157. Overall length 39,5m. Wing span 34,3m. Overall height l 2,5m. Maximum fuel capacity 26 0351. Typical cruising speed 809,5km/h

• :


Everything you need to know to ensure your entry to South Africa is hassle-free

AIRBUS A330-200 • CUSTOMS DUTY Numberofaircraft 6. Maximum passengers 222. Overall length 58,8m. Wing span 60,3m. Overall height l 7,4m. Maximum fuel capacity 13 9 l 001. Typical cruising speed 0km/h 86


: •

Customs duty is levied on imported goods and is usually calculated on the value of the goods.

: • • •


AIRBUS A330-300 •

AIRBUS A340-300E

• • :

recreational equipment, new or used, impo rted either as acco mpanied or unaccompan ied baggage, for their own use during their stay in South Africa.

• : :

(B) Residents: Personal effects and sporting a nd recreational equipment, new or used, exported by residents of South Africa for their own use while


Numberofaircraft 9 _ • Maximum passengers 317. Owrall length 75,3 m. Wing span 63,5m. Overall height 17,3m Maximum fuel capacity 195 6201. Typicalcruising speed 886km/h


• •• • •• • •• •• • •• • •• • •• •• • •• • •• • •• •• • •• •

178 Sawubona November 2017


: : • : :

AIRBUS AJ40-600 :

CUSTOMER SERVICE Weekdays, 08:00-16:30 (GMTJ, exduding South Alrican public halidays sa acu stom erserv ice@flysa a. com 011 978 2888 or 0860 003 146 RESERVATIONS 24 haurs 011 978 1111 BAGGAGE SERVICE (lost/damagedl Daily, 07:00-19:00 (GMn bagg o11 978 3733 REFUNDS Weekdays, 08:00-16:30 (GMTJ, exduding South African public ho lidays

h f

Numberofaircraft 5. Maximum passengers 249. Overall length 63, 9m. Wing span 60,3m. Overall height 16,8m. Maximum fuel capacity 97 5301. Typical cruising speed 871 km/h

Number of aircraft 8. Maximum passengers 253 Ove rali length 63,69m. Wing span 60,3m. Overall height l 6,7m. Maximum fuel capacity 141 5001. Typical cruising speed 860km/h



Peop e may enter Sout A rica at any appoi nte place of entry. All the goods in their possession must be declared to a customs official at the port of entry. When dutiable goods are in their possession, the relevant duties and VAT must be paid.

e-com merceonl 011 978 1786 CARGO Weekdays, 08:00-19:00 (GMTJ, exduding Sauth Alrican public holidays. Saturdays and Sundays, 07:00-13:00 011 9783 366 WEBSITE QUERIES VOYAGER Weekdays, 07 00-21 00 (GMD Saturdays, Sund ays and public holidays, 08: O0-14: 00 011 9781 234

abroad and subsequently re-imported either as accompanied or unaccompanied baggage.

(C) Limits in respecl of certain goods: The fo llowing

• • :

goods may be included in passengers' ba ggage either by residents or non-residents, but not exceeding the following limits:

: •

• Wine: 2 litres per perso n. • Spirits and other alcoholic beverages: l litre per person. • Cigarettes: 200 c igarettes per person. • Cigars: 20 cigars per person. • C igarette or pipe tobacco : 250g per person. • Perfume: 50ml per person. • Eau de toilette: 250ml per person. • Othe r new or used goods to a total value not exceedi ng R5 000 per person, excluding consumables. The limit for crew members is R700. • AI Iowa nces may not be pooled or transferred to other pers ons.

• : •

SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS // TRAVEL ALLOWANCES PLEASE NOTE : Visitors may be required to pay a cash deposil to cover duties and fax on expensive articles such as video comeras. The deposit on lhe goods is refunded on departure from South Africa CHllDREN UNOER 18 YEARS OF AGE: • Chi ldre n under l 8 may ela im duty-free allowances on goods used by them. • Children under 18 may no! claim allowances for tobacco and alcohol. • Parents may make a customs declaration on behalf of their children.



Customs deoronce procedures for possengers: • Passengers may select either the red or green channel upon arrival in South Africa • By selecting the red channel, a passenger indicates that he/she has goods to declare. • The customs officer i n lhe red channel must ascertain the value of the goods declared and lhe duties payable by lhe passenger's duty-free allowances. • By selecling lhe green channel, a passenger indicales that he/she has no goods to declare. • Random searches of passengers and baggage in lhe green channel are conducted.

The following goods ore prohibited from import: Vegetables, groundnuts, firewood, honey, used pneumalic tyres, raw animal wool and hair, electric blankets, coins, video recorders and reproducers, revolvers and pistols.

The following goods ore prohibited from export unless speciol permits ore obtoined from the relevont government deportment: Human bodies or body paris; meal and edible portions from cattle, sheep, goats or pigs; meat and edible animal offal salted, in brine, dried or smoked; edible flours and meals of meal or offal; cane or beel sugar and chemicals; pure sucrose in solid form; raw hides and skins of bovine or equine animais (fresh or salted, dried, limed, pickled or otherwise preserved, but nol tanned, parchment-dressed or further prepared), whether or no! dehaired or split; bank notes, securilies or foreign currency.

PROHIBITEO ANO RESTRICTEO IMPORTS ANO EXPORTS: Aparl from the requiremenls of the Expor! Control Regulations, lhe exportation and importation of a wide variety of goods is either lotally prohibited or is subject to inspection by other authorities and/ or production of special permits/licences, issued by certain authorilies only A comprehensive lisl of prohibited and reslricted imports and exports is available on lhe South African Revenue Service websile (www sars

. CUSTOMER BAGGAGE • Help us make sure your baggage gets there with you • • : • • : •

AI SAA, our goal is to deliver your baggage to you ai your deslinalion safely and timeously However, due lo circumslances beyond our control, baggage may be delayed, los! or damaged. ln that case, our represenlatives ai all SM deslinalions will do their best to retrieve il or compensale you and minimise any inconvenience to you. Kindly note the following guidelines

LABELLING YOUR LUGGAGE • Unique identificotion: Ensure your bag's easy to recognise by tagging the outside with a colourful ribbon and using a name tag which should include your correct na me, address, telephone number, email address and destination address. • The following ilems should NOT be packed in your check-in bags, but rather carried in your hand luggage laptops, comeras, legal documents (eg passports), cash/credit cards, jewellery and medicalion. • Always ensure that your bags are locked before check-in, as this acts as a deterrent. • Take advantage of lhe wrapping services provided ai lhe airport as an additional preventalive measure againsl damage and pilferage.

PLEASE NOTE: SM does not accept responsibi lity for the loss of valuable items in checked-in baggage, including money, passporls or visas, computer equipment, electronic devices, cellphones, fragile items, business documents and jewellery SECURITY ANO HANO LUGGAGE • Dueto limited space in the overhead compartmenls, your hand luggage may be placed in the cargo hold. • Remove all valuables from your hand luggage before it's taken for stowage in lhe cargo hold. • Ask for an airline tag with your name and flight details. • Liquids, aerosols and gels measuring more than l OOml aren't permitted in hand luggage. For inlernalional travei, if they weigh less than l OOml, they must be secured in a Ziploc bag. > 179

SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS // IN-FLIGHT COMFORT BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE (ROUTE-SPECIFIC) • Economy Class: One lo two pieces at a maximum of 23kg each. • Business Class: One to two pieces at a maximum of 32kg each. • lnfants not enlitled to a seat shall only be permitted one piece of luggage up to 23kg and one collapsible pram, car seat or collapsible buggy

you'll receive a unique reporting number. We'll initiate lhe tracing of the baggage and will continue for up to 120 hours, although mos! misdirected baggage is located sooner. You'll be informed as soon as your baggage is traced and (where local customs regulalions permit), il will be delivered lo lhe address you provided.

REPORTING MISHANDLED LUGGAGE Repor! your mishandled baggage to the Baggage Services office ai the airport. • Afile wi li be created for tracing purposes. • Your personal and travei informalion will be key

TRACKING AND TRACING: During lhe tracing period, you may conlact our office for informalion on progress made ai the telephone number below or via WorldTracer, a computerised tracking system which can be found ai under "Essenlial lnformalion"

LOST BAGGAGE: lf your baggage has been lost, repor! lhe incident immediately or Wilhin seven calendar days to lhe office of SAA:s Baggage Services, where

DAMAGED BAGS: lf your baggage is damaged, we'll carry out all repairs

and replacements (where necessary) according to the Carrier's Baggage Liability Limitations. This excludes normal wear and tear and manufacturers' defects The incident must be reported immediately or within seven calendar days lo lhe office of SAA:s Baggage Services, where you'll receive a unique reporting number anda baggage repair or replacemenl voucher (SA only). CLAIMS PROCEDURE : The next slep is lo submit a completed claim form to the Passenger Claims office The finalisalion of claims takes up to 21 working days. Please complete the formas thoroughly as possible and attach all required documentalion in order to expedite the process. ENQUIRIES: Baggage Services Call Centre: +27 11 978 3733 Baggage Enquiries: m


ln order to make your journey a pleasant one, please note the information on the following pages

SEATS • Time to relax! The backrest of your seat can be adjusted. For extra comfort during the flight, you may wish to lean back. Press lhe button in lhe armresl of your seal for the backrest to til! slightly Note

that seats in the emergency exit rows do not recline. • When seated in Economy Class, for the comfort of lhe person behind you, kindly ensure that your seat is in the upright posilion whenever meals or refreshmenls are served. CHARGING Laptop power is available at every seat in Business Class on board the Airbus A340-600, A340-300 and A330-200. The sockets are designed for • Two-pin European plugs, as illustrated. • Two- or three-pin USA plugs. • Other types of plugs will require an adaptor. • Power supply is intended for portable eleclronic devices only. 11 0-240Vac, 50-óOHz, max 75-1 OOW per seat, subjecl to aircraft type. • Laptop use when battery 180 Sawubona November 20 l 7

is completelyflat if the battery is completely flat, it is advisable to remove it before connecting the laplop to the power supply This will allow for optimal laptop usage and power supply The new A320 aircraft have a USB and laptop-charging poinl ai each seal in Business Class and shared points in Economy Class.


® • ®






Audio Yle• • PClbwer

DRINKING WATER Bottled water is available on request from our cabin crew members.

IN-FLIGHT SERVICE The cabin crew members are always ai your service. Should you require attendance, please ring the service bell which is situated either in your armrest or i n the passenger service u nit above your seat.

SPRAY Health regulalions ai certain airporls require that lhe aircraft cabin be sprayed. The spray is harmless, but if you think il might affect you, please cover your nose and mouth Wilh a handkerchief

READING LIGHT Each seat has an individual reading light which enables you to read ai night Wilhoul disturbing your fellow passengers. You will find lhe light switch in the armrest of your seat in the service unit above you.

MOTHERS AND CHILDREN • For lhe convenience of mothers with babies, diaper boards are available in certain toilets on all our widebodied aircraft • Toys and games to keep the little ones occupied during international flights are available on request from our cabin crew members.

AIR VENTS Cerlain aircraft in our fleet have individual air vents which can be adjusted to provide you with a slream of fresh air.

ACHES AND PAINS Medical supplies for minor ailments are available on

board. Ask a cabin crew member for assistance.


FOR YOUR COMFORT • Blankets and pillows are available. • A variety of magazines and newspapers is ai the disposal of Premium Class passengers on our inlernational flights. • Please lower your window shutter ai night lo ensure that you and your fellow passengers do not wake up a few hours later with lhe sun shining in your eyes.

IN·FLIGHf ENTERTAINMENT Once cruising height has been reached, lhe cabin crewwill switch on lhe entertainment system. lfyou are travelling on board lhe Airbus A340-600 or A430-300e, kindly refer to lhe Audio-Video on Demand system for the entertainment line-up.

DUTY-FREE SALES Duty-free articles are for sale on inlernational flights. Please consult the Extroordinair catalogue for details.

..• ..•• ..•• ..•• ..•• ..•• •

ADMISSION TO FUGHT DECK Please note that admission to the flight deck is no longer allowed for securi ty r eason s.

ln terms of lnternational Civil Aviation legislation and regulations, it is an offence for any person to • Commit any action that leopardises or may jeopardise the safety of an aircraft, passenger and/or crew member • Disobey a valid instruction from a crew member (safety officer) • Interfere with the normal operation of the aircraft • Assault or wilfully interfere with any member of the aircraft in the performance of his/her duties. • Ignore warning signs and/or safety signs within the cabin of the aircraft • Wilful~ cause damage to an aircraft which renders it lncapable of flight or which is likely to endanger its safety in flight. • Communicate any information which he/she knows to be false, thereby endangering the safety of an aircraft in service . • Commit any disruptive, disorderly or indecent act, be in a state of intoxication induced by alcohol and/or any other substance, behave in a violent or offensive manner to the annoyance of any other person on lhe aircraft, or use abusive, indecent or offensive language. ln terms of South African leg islation, it is an offence to smoke on any South African-

registered aircraft Smoking in the toilel compartments of an aircraft is deemed a saiety risk and is lawfully punishable. Any person commilting any of these offences while on board an SM flight may be arrested ai his/her point of arrival and prosecuted ln accordance with the applicable Civil Aviation legislation Such prosecution may result in the imposition of a fine and/or imprisonment ln the 1nterests of the safety of the travei li ng public and our employees, it is the policy of SM to lay the necessary criminal charges against unruly passengers and to aggressively pursue lhe successfu 1 prosecution of such persons. PLEASE NOTE: ln terms of lnternational Civil Aviation legislation, lhe Commander (Captain) of lhe aircraft is 1 authorised/empowered to take any action deemed necessary, i ncludi ng restraint of any persons or property on board. ln terms of this authority, the Commander may request and/or authorise any member of the crew to render assislance in terms of restrainl of, or aclion agai nsl such offenders ln terms of SAA:s right of refusal of carriage, SM reserves the right to refuse boarding to any person who is intoxicated or who, under reasonable grounds, is believed lo pose a potential danger lo safety and/or good order and discipline on board its a ircraft

INTERFERENCE WITH CABIN CREWDUTIES lt is an offence to interfere with the duties of lhe Cabin Crew members on board.

CONSUMPTION OF ALCOHOL Only alcohol served by a Cabin Crew member can be consumed on board SM aircraft

USE OF LAVATORIES Kindly make use of the lavatories in your respective class of travei. Please do no! throw foreign objects into the toilets, as this may cause them to become blocked.

HEALTHY FLYING TIPS Please consult the Cabin and Safety Guide pages in this magazine for more information regarding our cabin safety and security procedures. To make your flight more comfortable, we have also included several healthy flying tips at the back of this issue.

..• ..•• • 181


SAA has your safety ai heart. Please read these pages carefully


For your own safety, sleeping on lhe floor is prohibited in any circumstances. ln the evenl of an irregular occurrence and/or emergency, passengers sleeping on the floor would no! have access to seal belts and oxygen masks.

SAFETY PAMPHLET A safety pamphlet is provided ai your seal. Please familiarise yourself with its important informalion and note your nearest emergency exil. On flights exceeding three hours, as well as multi-sector flights, we recommend that you review lhe content of the safety pamphlet again before each landing.

SMOKING As per South African Civil Aviation Authority regulations, smoking on board is prohibited. This includes lhe smoking of any artificial device or e-cigarettes.



18 2 Sawubona November 20 l 7


ln preparation for take-off or landing, ensure that your tray table, footrest, armresl and personal N screen are stowed, that your window shutter is open, that your seal is in the upright position and that your seal belt is fastened

There are seat belt signs visible throughout the cabin. Whenever the lights are i llumi nated, faslen your seat belt. For your own safety, we • recommend that you keep it faslened

• • •• • •• • • •• •• • • •• • •• • •• •


• • : • •

unli 1the aircraft has come to a complete stop and lhe Commander has switched off lhe seat belt signs.

throughoul lhe flight. (However, seal belts should always be unfaslened during transil stops and refuelling.) When sleeping under a blanket or duvet, keep your seal belt loosely fastened over il so that the cabin • crew do no! need to wake you in lhe event of lurbulence.

LIQUIDS, AEROSOLS AND GELS (LAGS) When lravelling on international fl ights from SA, passengers are reslricted from carrying certain lAGS in the aircraft cabin. These rules are aligned to lnternational Civil Aviation Authority standards. Passengers wishing lo carry essenlial liquids with them on board the aircraft must place them in a re-sealable, clear plaslic bag with a maximum capacity of one litre and a total diameler of 80cm. No

..• ..•• ..•• ..•• ..•• •

item conlaining liquid may exceed l OOml and it must fit comfortably inside the sealed bag. lf these limilations are nol adhered to, items will be confiscated by airport security and SM will not be in a posilion to recover them for passe ng ers. When proceeding through airport security checkpoinls, lhe bag holding these items musl be separated from any other cabin baggage.

ltems which are exempt from LAG restrictions and which may be carried on board, without being placed in a dear plastic bag, are: • Baby formula/milk and baby food in small conlainers, provided the child is travelling with lhe person carryi ng these. • Essenlial and other nonprescriplion medicines nol exceeding l OOml per container, including saline solution and products such as eye drops and conlact lens solution.

• Liquids, gels and juice for diabetic passengers who require the m for medical reasons. • Solid cosmetics and personal hygiene items such as lipsticks in tubes, solid deodorants and lip balms. Any duty-free lAG products purchased after security checkpoints should be placed in special security bags ai the store and passengers connecting to further deslinalions are advised lo keep these sealed throughoul their journey



L~ --

CARRY-ON BAGGAGE Storage for your cabin baggage is provided either under the seat in front of you or in the overhead stowage compartment. For your own safety and that of the passengers around you, do not exceed the weight limitations of these compartments and ensure that items placed in them are securely positioned. Be careful when opening the overhead stowage compartments as some luggage may have shifted during the llight.

BUSINESS CLASS SM will accept two pieces of cabin baggage, neither of which may exceed 1 l 5cm in dimension and Bkg in weight.

ECONOMY CLASS SAA will accept one piece of cabin baggage not exceeding 1 l 5cm in dimension and Bkg in weight. These baggage limitations apply to all passengers travelling in Economy Class, regardless of their Voyager or other status.

Should you travei w ith a baby, book early and be sure to requ esta bassinet. The use of the bassinet is restricted by infant size and weight. lt can comfortably accommodate an infant of 75cm in leng th and the baby's weight must not exceed 1Okg (on average, this equates to an infant aged nine to 12 months). Bassinets may not be installed or occupied during take-off, landin g or turbulence.

PORTABLE ELECTRONIC DEVICES (PEDs) The South African Civil Aviation Authority has granted an exemption to allow SAA passengers to use PEDs during llights. The PEDs are divided into four categories: unrestricted, limited, restricted and proh ibited . The table below provides guidance on typical PEDs and when they may be used . All PEDs must be switched off during take-off, climb, approach and landing.

ln addition, the Commander may prohibit the use of any PED, if this is required in the interesls of safety. lf ai any point during a llight a ny irregularities or interference are detected in the llight deck, the use of PEDs (i ncluding devices w ith llight mode) must be suspended immediately. ln this event, the Com mander will make an announcement.



The items below may be used ai any lime: • Hearing aids (including digital devices). • Electronic watches. • Pagers (receivers only). • Heart pacemakers. • Devices powered by solar cells. • Devices powered by micro battery cells.

The following may only be used before the aircraft doors close prior to take off and du ring taxiing after landing: • Mobile phones. • Tablets. • E-Readers. • Laptop computers may only be used w hen the aircraft doors are open.

.......................................................... RESTRICTED


The following items may only be used inllight with the permission of the Commander. This is normally indicated by the seat belt signs being switched OFF during climb and ON during descent. Should circumstances dictate otherwise, the Commander will inform the Senior Cabin Crew Member: • Laptops with CD-ROM and DVD drive. • Palm-held organisers. • Audio equipment (eg CD-player, iPod, MP3 player). • Computer consoles (eg Nintendo DS, PSP). • Devices capable of recording. • Digital comeras. • GPS hand-held receivers. • Video cameras/recorders (including digital equipment). • Bluetooth devices with llight mode selected. • Mobile phones with llight mode selected. • Devices using BlackBerry technology with llight mode selected. • Laptops, PDAs, tablets and e-readers with built-in wili, with "wireless off" setting se lected .

The items below are prohibited ai all limes: • Laptop computers may not be carried in the ai rcraft passenger cabin on any USA llights. • Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally. • Wa lkie-ta lkies. • Remote-controlled toys. • Display units with cathode ray tubes. • W ireless computer equipment (eg: mouse). • PC printers. • PC scanners. • La ser poi nters. • CD w riters and mini disk recorders in recording mode. • Portable stereo seis. • Pocket radies (AM/FM). • TV transmitters/receivers. • Telemetric equipment. • Wi reless LAN.

Cabin Crew members are responsible For enforcing the poli cy regarding the use of PE Ds on board . lf the Cabin C rew are unable to conlirm that the tra nsmitting fu nction on an intentionally transmitting device has been disabled, then the device should be switched off. After embarkation and prior to the cabin doors being closed , the Senior Cabin C rew Member will make an announcement advising passengers of the cond itions under which llight mode may be used . Passengers will be required to select llight mode fu nctiona lity prior to switc hing their cellphones o ff in preparation For the llight. PLEASE NOTE: Flight mode setting is available on many mobile phones and o ther PEDs. When engaged, it suspends th e device's signal transm itting functions, the reby disabling its capac ity to place or receive calls or text messages, w hile sti ll perm itting use of other functions that do not require signa l transmission , such as calendars, address b ooks, reading and preparing ema ils, etc. 183


Because your health, comfort and safety are very important to us, SAA offers thoughtful services for travellers who require special assistance/ medical needs

FREQUENT TRAVELLER'S MEDICAL CARO To make lravelling easier for passengers with disabilities, stable medical conditions or special needs, we offer the Frequent Traveller's Medical Card (FREMEC) This card helps you avoid lhe hassle of obtaining medical clearance for each journey and automalically determines your special requirements. Such cards are usually honoured by cerlain other airlines. For card renewals, your doctor needs to complete an application on your behalf Send it to SM Special Handling on 011 978 2764. For further information, 0119781331/5716/3837 or spe ci a 1ha nd 1i ng@flysa

RESERVATION OF REQUIREMENTS lf you have special travei needs, we recommend that you make your travei plans as early as possible, so that we can serve you better. Should you require any medical assistance, please request it when making your reservalion (011 978 1111) orai least 48 hours before the departure of your flight. lt is importanl that you provide SM with detailed informalion ai the lime of booking. Please let us know if you require lhe following services: • A wheelchair. • Assislance getting in andou! of lhe aircraft seal. • Service dog amenilies. For conditions pertaining to the transportation of such animais wwwdaff (South African Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries) (United States Department of Transpor!). • Transfer from wheelchair to aircraft seat and vice versa. • Elderly care. • On-board facilities for lhe use of medical equipment, eg battery-operated C-PAP machine. • An adjacent seal for your carer. On lhe day of deparlure: li is advisable that you check in early for groundhandli ng/security purposes • Domestic flighls: Arrive ai least 60 minutes before flight departure. • lnternational flights: Arrive ai least tvvo to three hours before departure lime.

PLEASE NOTE: We musl be notified immediately of any change in your condition before travelling. Contacl SM Special Bookings on Oll 9782764or0ll 9781331/6219/3184



Medical clearance is required lo assess your fi tness to fly, especially if you need special allention or use any medical equipment on board. A Medical /nformation Fonn should be completed by you and your doctor if you have a complicated chronic condition, have had a recent illness, injury, surgery or hospitalisalion, or require special services such as • Oxygen supply (passenger- or airline-provided). • Stretcher. • Medical escort or in.flight medical treatmenl. • Carriage of medical equipment or instruments. • All medical informalion is strictly confidenlial. Once completed, the form must be faxed to SAA Spedal Bookings l O days before your proposed flight.

• Travellers who may be affected by reduced atmospheric pressure (cabin air pressure changes greatly 15-30 minutes after take-off and before landing, while gas expansion and contraction can cause pain and pressure). • Travellers who may be affected by reduclion in oxygen lension. (The cabin is ai apressure equivalent to an altitude of 6 000-8 000 feet and oxygen porfiai pressure is approximately 20% less than on the ground.) • Travellers may require us lo provide in-flight supplemental oxygen. (A SM-supplied oxygen cylinder /concentrator cosls US$ l 50 per flight.) To see the types of oxygen provided and requiremenls for lransporling your own • Travellers who require any medical equipmenl, eg, a stretcher.

184 Sawubona November 20 l 7


• Travellers who have a communicable disease or infection Your doctor must state any precautions necessary to preveni transmission and whether the condition poses a direct threat to the health of others. • Travellers who have been operated on or admitted to hospital within lhe previous two weeks. Your doctor must state whether your condition has stabilised sufficiently to travei by commercial air transpor!. • Travellers suffering from acute or severe symptoms such as difficulty breathi ng, high fever or severe pai n. • Travellers who might develop symptoms or behaviour that could have an adverse effect on the welfare of other passengers. • Travellers whose medical condition might be aggravated during or because of the flight. • Travellers accompanied by a premature infant or an infant with a medical condition. • Unaccompanied minors who have a medical condition. • Travellers with a mental condition which renders them unstable. • All personal medical equipment must be cleared by the airline and should have enough battery power to last the duration of the flight. Only dry-cell batteries are permitted on board for safety reasons.

AVAILABLE SERVICES For travellers with limited mobility, we offer the following assistance: • Wheelchairs at the airport We can arrange for wheelchair transpor! from check-in to the boarding gale, and from the aircraft to the arrivals hall ai your destination. • Travelling with your own wheelchair You are welcome to check in one wheelchair as baggage, free of charge. On flights to and from European Union destinations (London, Frankfurt, Munich), one further mobility device may be carried free of charge (two in total) • Mobility aids (cones, crutches, walkers, etc) are not included in your free baggage allowance. These items must be small enough to be stowed Without obstruction. • All our aircrafts are equipped with an on-board wheelchair, allowing passengers to be escorted to and from the toilets. We also have seats with movable armrests that facilitate the transfer of a passenger from lhe on-board wheelchair to the seat and vice versa. For a list of aircraft with movable aisle armrests and toilets accessible to wheelchair-bound passengers www.flysaa. com/za/en/flyi ngSAA/specialneeds/Specia ITravelNeeds. html

box with ice packs. This med ication must be kept with you throughout the duration of the flight. • lt is good practice to keep a duplicate copy of your prescription with you.

PREGNANT WOMEN •Medical clearance is only necessary ifyou are experiencing complications with your pregnancy • Domestic travei is permitted up to 36 weeks for a routine pregnancy. • lnternational travei is permitted up to 35 weeks for a routine pregnancy. Ali pregnant women beyond 28 weeks' gestation must provide a letler from their obstetrician, general practitioner or midwife stating the following: • Term of pregnancy. • Fitness to travei. • Whether it is a single, multiple or potenlially high-risk pregnancy • Any possible complications, including hypertension, history of premature labour, etc.

COLOSTOMY BAGS Travellers dependent on colostomy bags must ensure that they arrive fitted with an empty one ai the start of the journey Passengers are responsible for carrying a sufficient number of bags for the duration of the flight and disposing of them in a responsible manner upon arrival ai the deslinalion.

BLIND ANO DEAF PASSENGERS TRAVELLING WITH MEDICATION Ensure that you keep your medication in your hand luggage and have a doctor's letter with you outlining your condition, medication and dosage requirements, in case you encounter d ifficulties whi le travei li ng. • All excess medicines and liquids are to be carried in checked baggage. • All prescription medicine, syringes and needles used by diabetics must be sealed and properly labelled. • The quantity of syringes and needles is limited to the amount required for lhe flight. • These must be disposed of safely once you have reached your destination. • For medication requiring refrigeration, ensure you bring a cooler

Braille safetycards: Braille safety cards may be requested from our cabin crew. Captioned safetyvideos: Passengers with hearing disabilities can follow safety briefings in our captioned safety videos. Individual safety briefings are offered to anyone on request.

For further information, details of services offered or any queries, contact SAA Special Handling on O7 7 978 2764 or 017 978 331/5716/3837

TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN UNDER 18 Please reler to the Department of Home Affairs for the latest updates. Visit

traveli ng-with-children 185



Kneelift Lift your leg with knee bent and contract your liigh musde. Repeat 20-30 times for each leg.

Knee lo chest Bend forward slighJy, dasp your hands around your left knee and hug it tawards your chest. Hold for 15 secmds. Allernate legs and repeat 1O times.

Anlde cirdes Lift feet and draw cird es with ymx toes, one foot dockwise and the olier anth:lockwise at the some time. Rotate ·1n each directim for 15 secmds.


Shoulder roll Hunch your slhoulders forward, then upward, backward and dawnward in a genrle circular motion. Repea t five times.

........................ ......................... .........................................


Bodyshetch Wili both your feet m the floor and stomadh in, slowly bend forward and stretdi your hands down the frmt d your legs lowards your ankles. Hold for 15 secmds and sit back slowly.

lhe foot flex • W ith bali heels on lie floor, point fee t upward as high as you can. • Put bali feet flat m the floor. • Uft your heels high while keeping the balls d your feet on lie floor.

Neck roll Relax your shoulders and drcp youear to your shoulder. Genrly roll your neck from me shoJder to the olier. Hold eadh position for abaut five secmds. Repeat five times.


A few exercises on a long-haul flight will ensure you disembark with a spring in your step


o further ensure th at you have a pleasant experience on our llight, we'd like to draw your attention to certain hea lth tips which are recommended for all passengers and should be followed throughout the duration of the llig ht. The following tips are ai all limes subject to any intervening in-llight safety instructions being issued. Th ey're designed to improve blood circulation, alleviate sluggishness and relieve crampled muscles. 1. Exercise your legs and llex your feet ai regular intervals while seated to improve blood circulation.

2. Deep-breathing exercises are recommended.

3. Short walks, preferably once every two hours, are excellent for blood circulation. lncrease your normal intake of water and/or soft drinks before and throughout the llig ht; drink alcoholic beverages in mode ration. Any passenger who is aware of and/ o r affected by a medical conditio n of any natu re whatsoever is responsible for seeking med ical advice from their own medical practitioner before embarking on an intended llight, in orde r to dete rmine whether the medical cond ition cou ld be worsened by air travei.


: • • • : • • • •

• The central b lood vessels in your legs can be compressed, ma king it more d ifficult for the blood to gel back to the heart. • The long inactivity of you r body muscles in this position can result in muscle tension, backaches ora feel ing of excessive fa tigue - during o r even after your llig ht. • The cramped position inh ibits the normal body mechan ism from returning lluid to the heart, wh ile gravity can cause lluid to collect in your feet. This results in swollen feet after a long llig ht. Boeing recommends that passengers do lig ht exercises (see above) that may ass ist in inc reasing blood circulation and massag ing the muscles. Also, when stopping between destinations, wal k around frequently and re me mber to stretch !

1OCARDINAL RULES OF COMFORTABLE FLYING 1 Pack your medicines (homeopathic and prescribed] in your onb oard ho ld-all so that you' re prepared for any emergency. Also refer to Liquids, Aerosols andGels. 2 Eat and drink alcohol in 186 Sawubona Novembe r 20 17

moderation, but have as much wa ter as you like to preveni d ehydration. 3 Wear loose-litting, comfortable clothes made of natural libres. 4 Make sure your shoes can handle expa nding ankles and swollen feet.

5 Get up every two hours w hile on board, stretch and go to the bathroom to freshen up. 6 Do the on-board exercises shown on this page. 7 Always sei your watch to the ti me of your

destination so that your body has the duration of the ll ight to adjust to this new reality. 8 Wa lk as much as you can once you' ve arrived ai your destination - it helps gel the c irculation going .

9 Sc rub your body vigorously in the shower or bath to dislodge any unw anted bu ild-up of lluids. 10 Take a short na p on arriva l that revives you w ithout interfering w ith your night-time sleep .

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Sawubona SAA NOV2017  

South African Airways magazine