Page 1

Issue 16

£5 | €6.50

I n s p i r i ng U K & I r e l a n d s a l o n s uc c e s s




Aesthetics | Beauty | Hairdressing | Nails | Tanning | 1

2 | SalonNV Magazine

Welcome I

love my job and all the events we get to attend and the people we get to meet. Salon International this year was no different. It was great to see everyone and meet some new faces. The talent was incredible this year. In this edition we catch up with some of the fantastic SHABA17 winners including Claire McColl from Moi beauty and Kate Baxter who won best Lash Artist. Our new salon of the month is Salon Bon Bon where Sue Lever formally of Fudge is the proud owner. From their first salon in Wimbledon 25 years ago to their new academy in the centre of Covent Garden London, you can read why Rush is the fastest growing chain of salons in the UK . We have our regular monthly columns

from Emil Mcmahon, Carl Bembridge, Katie Margereson and the queen of daytime TV Arianne Poole shows you how to reinvigorate your salon and increase profits. We also have our Christmas Gift guide with some great ideas. I can’t believe it is that time already this year has flown in. As always we have all the latest industry news and hottest products and some fantastic and inspiring looks in our showcase section. We are always keen to receive any feedback so if there is anything you would like to see more or less of then email me at Wishing you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Look forward to seeing what 2018 holds.

Joanne X

Joanne Reid | Editor-In-Chief /SalonNVMagazine


SalonNVMag Inspiring UK & Ireland salon success Founder & Editor-in-chief Joanne Reid | Sub Editor Simon Ritchie| Head Designer Ross Stewart | Assistant Graphic Designer Cara Scott | Sales & Marketing Assistant Connie Neil Cover Image: Hair: Adrien Kubik Photography: Fabrice Meuwissen Make-up: Julie Roux Model: Yuliya Zdanchuk – Vanille Barres – Céline Humenny – Willo Marchais Thanks Mr Haircare - Emil McMahon, CocorocoPR, Alison Jameson Consultants, Essence PR, Seven Publicity, Vivid PR, LWPR, B TheAgency, Su-pr, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, National Hairdressers Federation, Hairdressing Council, Takara Belmont, Carl Bembridge, Ariane Poole, Byron Hairdressing, Dream Girl Hair, Iain Bruce-Low Hair, Kate Baxter, Katie Margereson, Moi Beauty, Rush Academy, SJ Forbes, Gemma Amura, James Williams. Published by MediaNV Ltd, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email | Tel +44 (0) 141 2125 525 | Web Copyright All work in this publication is copyright SalonNV Magazine and Gallus Print & Digital Media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores. | 3

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Editor’s choice





BEST beauty SALON, Moi Beauty


christmas gift guide


following the fellowship







barclay wolf hair

extentions 54

ariane poole salon



56 rush heritage


60 carl’s column


62 dr. nestor 64 New Shops 66 dream girl hair 68 showcase 74 male grooming 78 family matters

Inspiring UK & Ireland salon success

Contents Issue 16 | 5

The Blue Tit Summer Festival Blue Tit, the award-winning, Londonbased salon group, has continued with its mission to encourage staff to be as creative as possible by holding a unique event where they could showcase their skills. The Blue Tit Summer Fest created the perfect platform for 14 stylists from the brands seven salons to present their ideas and new techniques on stage at NT’s Bar in London Fields. During the evening, each of the stylists took to the stage to demonstrate their creative skills, and innovative inventions, including beautiful braid art, pretty pastel spiral curls, and stunning 3D Afros. Perry Patraszewski, Director, Blue Tit said: “Creativity is at the heart of the Blue Tit brand and we are constantly investing in our team to ensure they push themselves creatively. Not only does this encourage our stylists to be the best that they can be, but it provides inspiration for the other members of the Blue Tit team.”

Peter Collinge Celebrates his 90th Birthday An exclusive event was held at Andrew Collinge’s flagship salon in Liverpool to celebrate Peter Collinge’s 90th birthday and his outstanding career in the hairdressing industry.  The evening was a reunion of many of those staff, old and new, all of which have benefitted from his training. Andrew Collinge made a speech paying tribute to Peter’s achievements, which was followed by a film of Peter’s photographic work, archive photos and messages from staff from all over the world. Margaret McQuaid, his first apprentice in 1954, made a presentation of a birthday cake together with the newest and youngest recruit to the Andrew Collinge apprenticeship programme, David Randles. The evening was a glowing success and a fitting celebration for Peter’s exceptional contribution both to the hairdressing world and to the city of Liverpool. Peter said he’d had a wonderful evening and was thrilled to see so many staff from over the years, many who said how lucky they were, to have been part of the company. Andrew said “It’s a real testament to Dad to see how he is revered by all the staff, past and present and the respect they have for him.”

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Tom Bachik x OPI OPI have announced a nail brand ambassador partnership with celebrity nail artist Tom Bachik aka “The Mani-curist,” one of the most sought-after nail professionals amongst the nail and fashion category and A-list celebrities. Bachik will work with OPI’s Education, Product Development, Digital, Social and Influencer Marketing teams to create fashion forward nails, participate in product development and assist with education on behalf of the brand. Bachik is one of the top nail artists at Hollywood’s biggest red-carpet events, including the Oscars, Grammy Awards and Golden Globes thanks to his visually inventive, high fashion nail art designs. He beautifies the nails of Hollywood’s most glamorous women including Jennifer Lopez, Selena Gomez, Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian, Heidi Klum, Victoria Beckham, Kerry Washington and Gwyneth Paltrow. His striking nail designs also make him a favorite of top publications and brands with his nail designs gracing the pages and campaigns of Vogue, Vanity Fair, Elle, Allure, InStyle, Chanel, Gucci, Versace and Armani, to name a few. With more than 20 years of experience, Bachik has helped develop some of the most notable product innovations and application techniques in the industry. He has won more than 300 prestigious nail contests and is Nails Magazine #1 ranked competitor.

Fudge Professional Mixology Master 2017 Maria Ragberg from Unilipp AS salon in Norway has taken home the grand prize in the Fudge Professional Mixology Master 2017 competition. This year’s entries were of incredibly high standard, but the judges all commented on Maria’s bold and vivacious look, creative use of formula, and commitment to the Anti-Ordinary. As the Fudge Professional Mixology Master™ 2017, Maria will be flown to Milan to assist on the photoshoot for Fudge Professional’s 2018 colour collection, with global hairdressing legends X-presion creative team and Fudge Professional Global Head of Technical Education, Tracy Hayes. 2018 Winner, Maria Ragberg

Judges for the Mixology Master competition included the X-pression creative team, PR guru Samantha Grocutt from Essence PR, worldwide hairdressing legends Mazella&Palmer, awardwinning stylist Lisa Farrall, Head of Education of Fudge Professional Italy Marco Cenedese, and Mixology Master 2016 Janica Ström. “Wow, this is crazy. Thank you so much for selecting my image. I feel so honoured to win something big like this, by just doing what sets my heart and soul on fire. I want to say a huge thank you to Fudge Professional for making it possible for colourists to play and share their work worldwide like this. I can’t wait for Milan!” Said winner Maria. Winning Entry

Wahl Styling Collection

S J Forbes Stylist Helps Local Lady Brave The Shave For Charity

Introducing the Wahl Style Collection. Exclusive to salons and endorsed by Hooker & Young Wahl’s Styling Iron has contoured ceramic plates that heat up and cool down ultrafast. Add to this variable and optimum heat settings, and a three-metre swivel cord, and you have an iron that gives you complete control. The quiet yet powerful Dryer features a Quick Dry Air Flow and a Whispertek Silencer. Versatility is at your fingertips with the ability to switch from Turbo Heat to Cool Shot and a choice of two nozzles. RRP £120

Sarah Reid, a Student Experience Officer for Royal Holloway Careers and Employability Service, wanted to shave her head to show solidarity to her Husband who is battling cancer. Sarah approached the team at S J Forbes, and stylist Mollie was more than happy to help with Sarah’s hairraising experience. Sponsored by friends, family, and work colleagues, Sarah has raised more than £3,000 for Macmillan, which launched the Brave the Shave campaign in 2014. This year it’s already seen almost 1,900 people raise over £650,000 to support the work of the charity.

Patrick Cameron achieves legendary status After a glittering career, Patrick Cameron has had his legendary status confirmed with an award at the Alternative Hair Show at the Royal Albert Hall. Patrick had been invited to present some of the awards by the Alternative Hair Show founder Tony Rizzo, but when Patrick was called onto the stage by Roberto Pissimiglia to present the awards he got quite a surprise, as the tables were turned and he was in fact presented by industry icon, Robert Lobetta with the acclaimed Alternative Hairshow Legend Award. Following in the footsteps of Vidal Sassoon, Annie Humphreys, Robert

Lobetta and Klaus Peter Ochs, Patrick has now joined this unique club of industry legends. For Patrick, having this honour bestowed upon him was not only a great surprise, but also a tremendous honour. The Legend Award highlights the respect Patrick commands the world over for his innovative and imaginative hair work. Patrick commented, “I feel very grateful to have been chosen to receive this incredible award. I love what I do and I love to give back to our wonderful industry, to be acknowledged for this makes me feel very humbled and truly honoured.”

Step Up & SHINE calls for enthusiastic stylists for 2018 competition

Talented stylists of all levels can now enter Step Up & SHINE 2018 for a chance to win a year-long £2,500 bespoke education and mentoring programme. Step Up & SHINE was launched in honour of industry legend, Christofer Mann, in association with the NHF and the Fellowship, to nurture passionate stylists from the UK who may not have access to quality training. To win this incredible scholarship and be mentored by renowned industry expert, Debbie G, entrants need to explain why they are the ideal candidate. They must complete a short application form (via www. detailing their hairdressing background and ambitions, and record a 60 second video on Instagram to support their application using the hashtag, #stepupandshine18. | 7

Adrien Kubik

Photography: Fabrice Meuwissen Make-Up: Julie Roux

Model: Yuliya Zdanchuk – Vanille Barres – Céline Humenny – Willo Marchais

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Showc ase | 9

Showc ase

BOREAL Collection

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Hair: Marco PM @ Marco PM Estilistas Photography: Mikel Muruzabal

Stylist: Marco PM

Make-Up: Arturo Nuez


Something for everyone at Salon International The hairdressing event of the year returned to ExCeL, for three days of inspiration, education and innovation


t was another sensational year at Salon International, with 40,219 guests flooding through the doors of ExCeL London for three days of hairdressing inspiration, education and innovation. Guests from across the globe attended the annual industry extravaganza, which this year also played host to Wella’s International TrendVision international finale. Finalists from 44 countries competed on the show floor on Saturday and were supported by the thousands who had travelled with them, creating their national winning looks in front of the crowds. The evening ceremony saw Mana Dave and Kylie Hayes, both of New Zealand awarded the Platinum ColorVision and CreativeVision awards, respectively. Also taking home prizes on the night were: People’s Choice Award ColorVision, Taner YilDiz of Turkey; People’s Choice Award CreativeVision, Kai Jung of South Korea; Bronze Award ColorVision, Vic Chung of Taiwan; Bronze Award CreativeVision, Chu Lin of Taiwan; Silver Award ColorVision goes to Alexander de Lara of Philippines; Silver Award CreativeVision, Marina Krusheinitskaia of Russia; Gold Award ColorVision, Jose Quiñones of Puerto Rico and Gold Award CreativeVision, Gisleine Bernhardt. The iconic Annie Humphreys was also recognised with the Wella TrendVision Lifetime Achievement Award for her 50 years of colour dedication. TrendVision also saw inspiring shows from a bevy of British hairdressers and salons including hob, Sanrizz, Robert Eaton 12 | SalonNV Magazine

and Marc Antoni. Andreas Kurkowitz, the new global colour ambassador for Wella Professionals then presented the trends for Spring/Summer 2018 which focused on ‘nontouring’ and gender fluid colour placement. Competitions were a theme throughout the weekend, with HJ crowning their own winners in a series of competitions, all of which were hosted on the show floor. Congratulations to Afro Stylist of the Year, Aycan Kemel; Men’s Afro Stylist of the Year, sponsored by Andis, Graham Grimshaw; Barber of the Year sponsored by Andis, Kilian Maddison; Extension Specialist of the Year, sponsored by Remi Cachet, Helen Richardson and Bridal Hairdresser of the Year, Lea Arraez. City & Guilds also celebrated emerging talent, with their Ladies Commercial and Men’s Cut and Finish competitions, won by Lorenza Sanfillipo and Ben CliffordStephenson respectively. The most prestigious competition in hairdressing, HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional was also one of the standout attractions with the annual unveiling of the finalists’ and nominees’ images attracting thousands of visitors. British nominees, including the legendary session stylist, Eugene Souleiman rubbed shoulders with guests as they browsed the always-inspirational gallery of images. Hairdressing legends were on hand throughout the show to inspire guests and


share their knowledge, both with creative presentations on the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and HJ Stages, and in the Legends Lounge, where Lee Stafford, Charles Worthington, Errol Douglas, Andrew Collinge and Beverly C told the stories of their success. Elsewhere in the show, inspiration was to be found at every stand with leading names including Robert Cromeans, Zoe Irwin and Hooker & Young demonstrating the latest launches from brands, giving the newest product additions their stamp of approval through trend-led presentations. As the biggest industry showcase in the country, there was no shortage of hot product releases to be found at Salon International. WAHL presented a brand new women’s styling range, with a hairdryer and styling iron, while for ghd it was all about the Contour; their updated take on a crimping iron for texture and volume. BaByliss PRO presented the Perfect Curl MKII to create effortless curls, waves or ringlets at the flick of a switch, and label.m unveiled their range of accessories – the perfect addition to their newly-launched blow-dry menu. It wasn’t just about new releases though, with many brands celebrating big birthdays at the event. Kent Brushes celebrated 240 years, Crazy Colour marked 40 years on their eye-popping stand, Andis marked their 90th anniversary and Manic Panic brought over their legendary founders Tish and Snooky to kick off their 40th birthday celebrations. As well as shopping, Salon International is all about the shows, with Trevor Sorbie, Patrick Cameron, Sassoon Academy, TONI&GUY, RUSH and BaByliss PRO presenting in Salon Live, whilst Mahogany, hosted their ever popular seminars. For Trevor, it was an emotional return to the stage after his retirement from live work more than a decade ago. Alongside members of his team, he shared his inspirations and how innovative starting points can lead to

breathtaking, unexpected results. Patrick Cameron proved why he’s the king of long hair with his latest collection, Easy Classics. In typically effervescent style, he breezed through ten models with a series of simple, take-back-to-the-salon techniques for dressing hair. Sassoon Academy celebrated the sheer skill of hairdressing, with an impassioned return to the craftsmanship of colour and precision cutting techniques, no matter how subtle the end results. TONI&GUY presented Futurewise; their latest trend-led collection of cuts, colours and styles. However, it was their fashion week and avant-garde artistry which drew gasps from the crowd as snow fell and fire lit up the stage in a deeply inspiring show. For BaByliss PRO it was all about rising star, Ky Wilson, who presented Session to Salon; a celebration of runway looks and the techniques and tricks that can be employed to take the looks back to clients in the salon. The Mahogany seminar saw the salon group’s creative team present Curve-Linear, an architecture inspired collection that’s all about soft, curving lines and a couture colour palette. At RUSH Live, creativity was matched with charity as the team created looks ranging from commercial to avant-garde, all in aid of Great Ormond Street Hospital. Looking back on the three-day event, HJ managing director Mark Moloney said: “It was another action-packed weekend of hairdressing inspiration, education, and excitement with the show attracting more salon owners, stylists and colour technicians than before, generating great business for our exhibitors. The show is growing each and every year and we’re delighted to attract guests from all over the globe to come and celebrate what’s great about British hairdressing. Salon International is a cornerstone of the industry and it’s an honour to know that it’s such a huge event in the calendar for hairdressers. This industry worth £6billion and we’re immensely proud to be able to contribute to that.”

SalonNV tests the Takara Belmont Yume Oasis Our editor Joanne Reid had the pleasure of trying out the latest addition to Takara Belmont’s award winning salon range at Salon International. “What an incredible experience! The whole procedure from start to finish was the ultimate in hair care. The comfort the Yume offers matches any treatment you get a spa or high-end beauty salon. Combined with the most amazing Japanese head and hand massage it really left me feeling wonderfully relaxed and the cleanest my hair felt in a long time.” | 13


Under the Hood at Salon International Twenty minutes before the show starts and Cat Hood, senior stylist with Charlie Taylor in Dundee, is cheerfully checking her model one last time. There is no sign of nerves. “Yet” she adds. But this is her first time actually cutting hair on stage in front of a large audience.


he cuts and colour are ambitious. The first model has a fine precision crop with the added detail of a floppy fringe accentuated by subtle strips of neon yellow amid the back. This is the model Cat will finish on stage. The second model has colour that contrasts with the first – yellow and black hidden within a blunt blonde bob. The work is a team effort between Charlie, Cat, and Deanne Brown, who prefers to stay away from the limelight. Appearing with her boss, Charlie, on the Wella stage at Salon International on the same platform as her hair heroes including Mark Hayes and Zoe Irwin hasn’t fazed Cat (yet), probably because she’s got a lot on over the weekend. As

14 | SalonNV Magazine

well as this first session, she has a further two slots on the Fellowship stage before she can jump on the plane back north. “I’ve assisted on stage before, but it is only this year that I’ve really started doing my own work in front of an audience and this is my first time actually cutting,” explains Cat, who joined Charlie Taylor straight from school seven years ago. “It’s Charlie who is pushing me, giving me the opportunity to develop skills beyond the salon.” Earlier this year, and egged on by Charlie, Cat auditioned and won a coveted place on the Wella GenNow Team, a year-long programme aimed at developing show-standard hairdressers of the future. The first event, a weeklong boot camp in August mentored by top names such as Gary Gill and Bruce Masefield, was followed a couple of weeks later with a slot assisting on the Toni & Guy show for the UK TrendVision final. And now she has her show with Charlie, followed by the two GenNow appearances on the Fellowship stage. “‘I’m usually fine during the pre-show prep because I’m so busy, but two minutes before the start when you are in the wings waiting to go on, that’s when my heart starts racing and my mouth goes dry. For that short time, I’m convinced I’ll mess it all up and not be able to think what to say,” she laughs.

confidence. But I also I knew that if I started to flounder, Charlie knows me well enough to recognise it and jump in to keep the show going smoothly. I wasn’t so confident in the GenNow segments as we are all very new to stage work and I wasn’t convinced I’d have that same support,” she admits. “But actually once we were on stage together we really worked as a team.” Being part of a team where all the members are spread out geographically does present problems, but the advent of social media, and Whatsapp in particular, has eased the challenges. The group constantly share inspirational images and talk to one another between meets. Such open communication has helped them quickly gel, teaching them to listen to one another’s ideas and encouraging a willingness to adapt to fit in with others. Since the shows, Cat has been watching the playbacks carefully to see areas she could do better. She learned a lot in those two days.

‘I didn’t talk as fluently on the GenNow segments; I can see that now, so I’m going to work on my verbal presentation. I’ve got to learn not to lean so much on Charlie,” adds Cat. “It is scary getting up on these stages in front of others But she doesn’t mess it up, working and having the confidence to share your smoothly alongside Charlie, who has thoughts and ideas. But it’s that very decades of experience performing at discomfort that makes it so exciting. If the highest levels on the international you didn’t get nervous and tense, what stage. She finishes off the crop perfectly would be the point in doing it?” while keeping up the chat. Her GenNow For Cat, there will be many more appearances are equally slick. challenges over the next 12 months, Talking later she put it down to solid preparation and a supportive but the benefits are clear. She has already learned new techniques from environment. her GenNow team mates and mentors, “For the Wella appearance, Charlie, Deanne, and I planned carefully how and each time she has felt her skill levels we wanted the hair to be, practising cut being stretched. The year will be fun, and colour repeatedly on mannequins but it will also make her an even better and house models. Good prep builds hairdresser.

“It is scary getting up on these stages in front of others and having the confidence to share your thoughts and ideas. But it’s that very discomfort that makes it so exciting. If you didn’t get nervous and tense, what would be the point in doing it? | 15

Zoeva Rose Golden Complete Brush Set This exquisite brush kit contains everything you need to apply and blend base and eye make up like a pro. There are brushes to delicately buff in foundation, contour, concealer and highlighter as well as dusting away any rogue powder or pigment. And for the eyes, there are seven brushes to delicately buff in under-eye concealer; shade and contour the lids; smudge your eyeliner; and blend pigment along the lash line – as well as create a gorgeous cat’s eye, and take your brows to Delevingne’esque proportions.


£110 –

Easiweft Hair Extension Holder A revolutionary clip-in hair extension accessory that enables you to dry, style and store your hair with ease. It minimises knotting and tangling, prolongs the life of extensions and gives you the ideal place for storing when your hair is not being worn. £19.95 –

Heaven Gel Polish Gel polishes wear longer and stronger than a traditional manicure and with a range extending to 300 colours, this latest brainchild from Heaven founder Deborah Mitchell is certainly a winner. The rich, glossy top coat encases colour in a glassy shell that’s beyond dazzling.

Hair by Sam McKnight Lazy Girl The ultimate dry shampoo to give hair volume and longevity between washes. Sam McKnight says himself it’s his “dream dry shampoo. It’s an ultra-light powder mist. A styling product in its own right. Perfect for those lazy days but it also gives you volume and hold.” £19 –

Wet Brush Firm enough to detangle the messiest of knots yet flexible enough to be gentle on the scalp, Wet Brush soft bristles glide through all hair types whilst massaging the scalp at its follicles to stimulate circulation. Revealing shiner, softer and healthier looking hair, The Wet Brush is available in an array of cool colours and guarantees a painless, tearless experience each and every time! £12 –

milk_shake Volume Solution Conditioner Detangles and gives normal/fine hair volume, for an exceptionally light sensation. Milk proteins, organic Aloe Vera, Panthenol, Glycerin and Polysaccharides help boost body and volume, leaving hair soft and vibrant. £14.69 –

Editor’s ChoiceENVY 16 | SalonNV Magazine

Joice LumiShine Silver Blue Series An arsenal of silver-blue based demi-permanent liquid shades that deliver icy cool results, plus contain the proven healthy hair power of Joico’s exclusive ArgiPlex Technology. Use it to tone platinum blondes, cancel unwanted warmth on dark blondes, or eliminate even the slightest bit of brass on the deepest brunette and black hair. £8.95 –

Therapi Signature Cleanser Part of the three-step-system haircare regime introduced by the Therapi brand with all products containing a unique multibenefit ingredient: Baobab Oil from the iconic Baobab tree. It has miraculous moisturising, strengthening, repairing, and conditioning properties, leaving all hair types with extraordinary shine. £9.99 –

Aveda Control Force Hairspray Lock in your style all day with this maximum hold and control hairspray. Boasting up to 24-hour humidity defence and a fast drying formula, with just a spritz of this hairspray you can look your best all day long.

milk_shake Blue Velvet Collection

£22 –

From milk_shake Creative Permanent Colour comes a range designed with the appeal of the combination of past and present to display the contrast between opulence and minimalism. Five colours: violet black, red mahogany medium brown, brown copper medium blond, violet platinum ash blonde, and red violet platinum blonde, offer endless possibilities.

Matrix Oil Wonders Volume Rose Conditioner Provides lightweight nourishment to delicate strands of fine hair. Enriched with the finest rose hip oil, the luxurious conditioner adds volume without extra weight. Hair is left soft and smooth with a thicker, fuller appearance.

£89.99 –

Sachajuan Curl Shampoo From the new Sachajuan Curl range, this shampoo has been specifically created for curls with a very gentle cleansing action, without compromising on professional performance. Sachajuan’s Ocean Silk Technology combines with moisturising wheat protein, nourishing the cuticle to build the strength, structure, and shine curly hair needs. £20 –

HairENVY | 17

Urban Decay Heavy Metals Metallic Eyeshadow Palette Limited edition palette that is loaded with 20 of Urban Decay’s most amped-up metallic shadows yet – and every single one is new and exclusive. Inject your look with a hit of glam rock for daytime or go full-on metal for a night out.


£43 –

Eminence Marine Flower Peptide Eye Cream Uniquely formulated for the delicate eye area, this ultra-rich eye cream uses collagen-boosting actives, naturally derived plant peptides and innovative algae extracts to dramatically reduce the decline in collagen that occurs naturally over time. Suitable for use day and night. £33.01 + VAT –

High Definition Browtec An ultra-slim, retractable twist-up brow pencil that is thinner and firmer than ever, delivering precise application every time. The firm texture makes this brow pencil easy to control and apply, ensuring lines are clean and accurate. Perfect for creating super-fine hair strokes. £16 –

Oway Beauty Radiance Face Balm An illuminating and smooth skin cream that hydrates, nourishes, and brightens skin. Antioxidants protect, preserving the youthfulness of the skin, while a lipid-replenishing action improves the skin’s appearance. The result is skin that is smooth and luminous. £58 –

Swiss Clinic Face Dry Mask A soft textile material with embedded active ingredients resulting in firmer and glowing skin in just 15 minutes. Working to tighten and renew the skin, it stimulates collagen production and reduces fine lines whilst nurturing and rehydrating. £38 –

Mac Cosmetics Ruby Woo Lip Pencil A pencil designed for shaping, lining, or filling in the lip. The smooth, creamy texture is great for outlining lips or colouring them in. Available in a wide selection of colours that each work well with many different lipstick shades. £13 –

Skin & Make-upENVY 18 | SalonNV Magazine

Cuccio Naturale Pomegranate and Acai Lyte Lotion A sheer lighter side of Cuccio Naturale Butter Blends and provides instant hydration in an easy to apply pump bottle. Emollients naturally rehydrate for smoother and more radiant skin. Pomegranate and acai promoted healthier and younger looking skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles making it Cuccio’s most potent antioxidant blend.

PRODUCTS £13.99 –

Sienna-X Waxing Range The perfect pre and post-tan products from Sienna-X, the Cleansing Gel, Soothing Oil, and Cooling Crème combine to create an ideal treatment for your clients. Keeps skin protected and purified, helping to reduce redness and discomfort.

Fake Bake Beyond Bronze Self-Tanning Liquid Crazy Angel Twilight Mistress Salon Spray

The cosmetic guide colour gives an instant tan and makes the application even easier. The fast drying, fast absorbing, transfer resistant formula enables wear throughout the day, contains premium tanning agents and is pleasantly fragranced with a tropical scent.

A must have for those seeking a luxurious deep golden tan. The quick drying formula glides effortlessly onto the skin leaving an instant bronze glow. Infused with Bearberry, the alcohol free solution moisturises and hydrates to leave skin silky smooth.

£35.94 –

Kaeso Hydrating Moisturiser Perfect for normal to dry skin, this hydrating facial moisturiser is formulated to restore moisture and boost the complexion of the skin. Natural antioxidant balm mint and cotton are key features of this moisturiser and are renowned for excellent hydrating properties. £3.85 –

Hive of Beauty Options Warm Honey Wax An all-purpose classic warm ‘honey’ wax suitable for use on the face and body. Ideal for use on normal skin and normal/coarse hair. Formulated from the highest quality ingredients to ensure excellent depilatory waxing results, Hive superior performance waxes are a popular choice with professional therapists. £7.99 –

Body, Tanning & WaxingENVY | 19

Elegant Zofia Styling Chair Part of the stunning Zofia Collection, the cut our design is ideal for easy cleaning and the thick, padded, luxurious chair has stitching detailing to the back and thick arm rests for extra comfort. £595 –

P R O D U C T S Collexia Straightener The new medium sized Straightener has all the features found on other products, but has improved, enhanced and added to them to create an easy to use, multi-functioning straightener that has the reliability and high-performance synonymous with the Collexia name.

Gelish Professional High Performance LED Gel Light Gelish provides the salon industry with all of the tools needed to help make salon businesses even more successful, with the latest and greatest in nail products. This LED Gel Light is designed for rapid, efficient gel curing. Lasts up to 50,000 hours guaranteed.

£74.99 –

£295 –

Takara Belmont Yume Oasis A mobile shampoo system that demonstrated technical ingenuity and leading-edge equipment innovation from Takara Belmont. The Yume Oasis delivers the ultimate versatility for every salon business, allowing easy manoeuvre around your client and backwash station. £4,000 –

REM Glow Make-up Styling Unit Add light and style to any beauty or make-up area with this multi-position united from REM. The chunky, modern design is available as a wall or island unit and can be finished in a wide range of laminate colours from the REM range. £822 –

Wahl Dryer The quiet yet powerful Dryer features a quick dry air flow and whispertek silencer. Versatility is at your fingertips with the ability to switch from turbo heat to cool shot and a choice of two nozzles. £120 –

Furniture & EquipmentENVY 20 | SalonNV Magazine | 21

evo inspired at the ‘freevo’ show in London The ova l sp ac e in t he he ar t of E ast L ondon’s B et hna l Gre en prov ide d an ub er c o ol, c ontemp orar y warehous e-st y le s ett ing for t he ‘f re e vo’ show f rom Aust ra li an professiona l hair brand e vo on Sund ay 15t h O c tob er.


n audience of 350 hairdressers, salon owners, and industry insiders gathered from all over the UK and Europe for an evening of inspiration, creativity, and entertainment, hosted by Jay Kownacki, Global Education Manager for evo.

comedy thrown in for good measure. Taking the audience on a road trip through evo’s education collection to support its ‘free your mind and your hair will follow’ global campaign with

model demonstaration by Lauren, Grant, and Jules, plus six pre-done models, supported by Fabuloso Pro Colour by Tom Smith, Director at Billi Currie and evo uk ambassador.

a mantra of ‘mane control not mind control’, a total of 18 models – 14 female and four male – were presented in two section. Each section comprised one live

An interactive element to the evening saw audience members invited to the stage to sport deely boppers for a balloon blowing competition in a bid to win a set of the new evo spike nylon pin bristle radial brushes and professional hairdressing scissors.

The evening kicked off with a welcoming introduction from Brad Gauvin, International Sales and Brand Development Director and Michael Bacon, Regional Brand manager for Europe and the Middle East, before a brand video set the scene for evo’s mission of truth, beauty, and justice. Having already taken the ‘freevo’ show to Los Angeles and Sydney, members of the evo creative team – Lauren McCowan, Grant Norton, and Jules Tognini – took to the stage to present a cutting, styling, and colouring extravaganza, with a slice of

Covering a variety of unique styles, new ideas, and undiscovered frontiers that spanned precision cutting, editorial styling, men’s hair and colour, there was something for all the audience to be inspired by, with an abundance expert tips from the team on using, blending, and layering the evo care and style product range.

Brad Gauvin, International Sales & Brand Development Director, evo I am so proud of our talented and passionate creative and education team. They are devoted to our ethos and the true development of hairdressers and are innovative leaders that think for themselves, challenge boundaries, and inspire change. They are serious about education, but don’t take themselves too seriously – just the way we like it.

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The Hair Extension Holder Introducing the fabulous new way to work with hair extensions from Easiweft.

It is used in the salon to assist with all extension types. Save up to an hour when fitting wefts, tapes and individuals and keeping your trolley tidy throughout. Wash, dry, style and store clip-in extensions using the Easiweft.... it’s a game changer! You will wonder what you ever did without it!

Highly recommended for professional extensionists. I attached the Easiweft to my trolley to help keep my station neat and tidy during extension applications. Not only does this help me keep running on time because I’m not getting tangled up, It helps reduce application time. Reviewed by Samuel Burley

/easiweft @easiwefthq | 23

Hair: Neil Smith

Make-Up: Roseanna Velin Styling: Clare Frith

Photographer: Dan Thomas

Showc ase 24 | SalonNV Magazine

Neil Smith


F E M Neil Smith | 25


M ic r ob la d in g

Never has there been more focus on the detail of eyebrows than there is now. The amount of time and effort people go to trying to rectify years of over-plucking or to create the ‘perfect’ brow is very time consuming. Many choose to go down the route of semi-permanent make up to have long lasting perfectly groomed brows. Microblading has been the thing of late but what is it? What’s the difference between microblading and semi-permanent make up? What even is semipermanent make up? Get ready for the low down as we take you through the ins and outs of this growing area of the beauty industry. Semi-permanent make up has been around for a few decades, essentially it is the placement of dye under a level of the skin where it stays ‘semi’ permanently for approximately two to three years. Is it tattooing? Yes it is, but the dye is placed not quite so far in the dermis of the skin that it would stay there forever. What the public find appealing about this is that they can change their minds as the fashions and trends change. Not too long ago thin neat brows were the thing, now the thicker the better. So let’s set the record straight, Microblading is semi-permanent tattooing… no ifs or buts about it. Microblading is actually a technique or stroke which is used in semi-permanent make up. An experienced therapist will perform not only ‘blading’ movements but many other strokes and techniques to create the most natural looking results. Advertising of late which promotes ‘microblading’ services is a rather clever marketing move to remove the thought of pain, which is often associated with semi-permanent tattooing, out of the clients mind. Very clever but some literally only offer the ‘blading technique.’ Something to watch out for! The other confusing aspect between two treatments is price, microblading is often cheaper and claims to produce the same results as semi-permanent tattooing but this is not always the case. Sometimes the training is not so in depth or even lacks the ability to perform certain techniques which are essential for producing a natural look. Another reason why price varies from between £100- £500 is due to the quality of the dyes, needles and other equipment that is used in the procedures but experience also play a huge part in the cost of the service.

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Jody Knight, one of the most renowned and experienced semi-permanent make up technicians in the UK, offers some key advice when searching for a capable practitioner to entrust your beloved brows. “Permanent make-up is a form of tattooing where the artist uses the digital machine or microblades to create the desired look and should be performed in a clean clinical environment. “When choosing a permanent make-up artist there’s many different things you can look at: does the artist have a good reputation on social media? Have your friends had a treatment done? Do they offer you a consultation where you get to meet the artist and discuss your wants and needs? Do you like their work? Have you seen real images (not bought images) of the technician’s work? Are they fully insured and have been trained by a reputable training school? Are they using disposable blades or single-use needles? Many good artists attend infection control seminars and are continually updating their skills and attending educational seminars. “Most importantly they are your eyebrows, yes we are ‘the brow’ experts but a good artist designs your eyebrows with you.” I speak from experience when I say the levels of service and results vary greatly in this area of the industry, having had what I now know to be a far from great treatment in the past. The procedure was not only rushed, it was immensely painful. After being told this was normal, I just accepted that this person must know best. As for the results, they were ok, not exactly what I’d asked for and they faded within a very short space of time. Fast forward a few year to when I met Jody;

I had a completely different experience! Firstly the consultation and medical history I completed beforehand was good and lengthy, a patch test was insisted upon as was a patch test for the numbing cream that would be used on me during the procedure. The consultation was detailed, thorough, and professional. I was fully focused on by Jody who listened to every word I said and we both agreed which method, colour, and shape my finished brows would be. By the time we were ready to start the treatment there was zero apprehension on my part nor was I nervous about the pain I thought I was about to experience. To my delight the pain was minimal; this was a huge relief after the brutal pain I’d experience in the past. This confirmed the level of talent and experience Jody has as I quite happily talked throughout the procedure with a calm heart rate. The results were amazing and resulted in brows that were perfect for me. So with the semi-permanent make up business booming how will it evolve in the future? Let’s ask the expert.


Jody says: “I have seen permanent make-up becoming more and more popular as our lives become more hectic and demanding. Clients range from busy mums who don’t want to face the school run without looking like they’ve made an effort to clients who’ve lost their hair due to stress to clients who are working 60 hour weeks and don’t have time to apply make-up throughout the day or first thing in the morning. It has certainly increased in popularity with the boom of social media and as women seem to talk about having treatments more it’s become the ‘norm’ to have a permanent make-up treatment. There’s no more stigma.


“Eyebrows are really big at the moment as they frame your face and you can literally leave the house with just a bit of mascara and lip gloss if your eyebrows are perfect. I do see an increase in the future of having your lips and eyes tattooed as these two treatments are still relatively unknown. They are soft, natural, subtle enhancements that really do give us women those extra few minutes to finish off a report, pack the kids lunch box, or have those extra few minutes in bed. “With any big boom there are unfortunately establishments that are not so ethical and haven’t trained with reputable training schools. Unfortunately we are finding that clients are actively searching for technicians that do correctional work which is really sad for our industry as there are many amazing artists who love their job and take pride in what they do. The biggest tip I can give anyone thinking of having a treatment is to do your research on the artist as each of us has our own unique style.” For more information visit: By Katie Margereson | 27


Winter is coming!

It’s the biggest television hit of the past decade and with its cast of beautiful stars, it’s no surprise that Game of Thrones has been making a huge impact culturally. From the runways of London Fashion Week, it’s been easy to spot the designers inspired by Kit Harington’s flowing locks, with the look undergoing a renaissance this past year. Meanwhile,

it’s Emilia Clarke’s Daenerys Targaryen who is the style icon for the other half of the population, her braided look gaining in complexity with every passing season. Fortunately, Hayley Gibson-Forbes, Co-Director of award winning salon S J Forbes, has the perfect guide for recreating the Mother of Dragons’ look.

Step 1 Make sure hair is washed and dried Step 2 Brush the hair thoroughly and section it down the centre Step 3 Split each of those sections in two Step 4 Hold each of the four sections in place with a clip and leave a small thinner section running above each ear

Step 5-8 Start at one of the top sections and Dutch plait the hair backwards to the crown, pulling the hair tight to the head. When you reach the crown continue to plait, without picking up any extra hair. Repeat this on the other three sections and secure each plait with a clear band.

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Step 9-11 French plait the thin section of hair above each ear so, that they are the same length as the Dutch plaits. Step 12 Gather the plaits into three separate groups. The two top centre, the two to the left, and the two to the right.

Step 13 Plait each of these three sections together and secure them with a clear band. Step 14 Gently loosen the plaits by pulling them slightly. Step 15 Loosen a few pieces of hair around the face. Step 16 Loosely curl the remaining hair with irons.

Step 17 Gently turn under the ends of the large plait with hair irons. Step 18 Run your fingers gently through the curls and then finish with hairspray. | 29

New Season Style We asked three top stylists to pick their top looks for the end of 2017 by looking at what was on show at autumn/winter Fashion Week. Here’s what they think you’ll be getting asked for in salon.

Hayley Gibson-Forbes, Director of S J Forbes OH BEEHIVE

My favourite style for A/W17 is the high-volume, high-impact modern beehive, as seen at Chanel. This Sixties style has been given a modern twist, worn with bejewelled headbands and plenty of attitude. The key to creating this look is in the teasing, so a texturizing spray that adds guts and hold and a fine toothed-comb are essential. After backcombing, hair should be gently brushed and held in place with plenty of hairspray. For styles like this that require plenty of volume, extensions are a great addition. If you lack the volume and thickness that styles like this require, extensions – such as the 100% human hair Easilocks extensions we offer at S J Forbes – add the desired amount of volume, as well as length.


Low-volume looks – in stark contrast to the oversized styles seen at Chanel – were a standout trend at Fashion Week A/W17. At Topshop Unique hair was worn loose, but styled to look sleek, shiny and so straight it was essentially flat. At Carolina Herrera models wore androgynous styles, with hair slicked tightly against the head. Similarly, at both Eudon Choi and Loewe, ponytails were styled low and slick, held in place with gel, to keep the crown as flat as possible. A similarly restrictive ponytail with no room for movement was created at Shrimps, and over at Acne models wore longer hair tucked in to their neckline, to create faux-bobs with no volume whatsoever. The idea is to restrict movement and volume and keep the hair as close to the crown as possible. If you want to try out the ‘no volume’ look, try a slicked-back ponytail, using a wet-look wax spray to slick the hair back. If you want to keep hair loose, straightening irons will help to flatten hair against the head and a high-gloss finishing product, such as Kérastase Elixir Serum Solide RRP £30.20, will keep the look polished and sleek.

Steve Rowbottom, Director of Westrow THE NEW PONY CLUB

The ponytail is, without a doubt, the biggest hair story of A/W17 and there’s a lot of flexibility in how it can be worn this season. Slicked back and severe or softer and less structured, there are so many different ways to wear this simple, versatile style, as we saw at Fashion Week. At Loewe, ponytails were worn low at the neck and high on shine, with a clean centre-parting that was slicked down with gel and worn flat against the head. A similarly restrictive ponytail, with no room for movement, was created at Shrimps, where ponytails were worn tight and twisted to look like rope. Again, a wet-look wax spray created a harsh slicked-back look, with ponytails pinned down to avoid any ‘swish’ factor.


Good news for the scissor-phobic: we saw an emerging trend for faux-bobs at Fashion Week A/W17. At Acne, models wore longer hair tucked in to their neckline, to create faux-bobs, with mousse ‘squashed’ in to roots, to create restricted movement. At Roberta Einer models appeared to sport textured curly bobs. Upon closer inspection, models’ longer hair had actually been styled in to a double French twist close to the nape of the neck, before rolling under and pinning, to create a faux-bob shape. This is a great way for longer-haired ladies to try out a whole new look, without the commitment of a cut.

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Harriet Franks, Head Colourist, Blue Tit Peckham BAD HAIR GONE GOOD

There’ll be no such thing as a bad hair day when A/W17 is over: the new season is all about recreating what we traditionally would want to hide under a hat. Static hair? Tick. Flattened roots? Tick again. Anya Hindmarch sent her models down the runway with what can only be described as ‘hat hair’: models’ locks were slicked down with serum, flattened poker-straight with irons and finally, rubbed with balloons, to add a static electric quality to the finish. Erdem’s models were similarly static, sporting beautifully slick glossy manes with strong centre-partings, finished with a layer of static frizz, while at Topshop Unique, models’ hair was so poker straight it was flat. If you want to replicate this look, a glossing serum and hot irons are essential. Add an optional layer of static frizz, by rubbing hands against the grain of the hair strands.


In stark contrast to the ‘hat hair’ trend, volume and height were created at a handful of the A/W17 shows, which makes for a more flattering alternative for those who can’t quite pull off flat hair. At Chanel, the beehive was given a modern, space-age twist, but retained the same height, volume, stiffness and hold of the Sixties’ original. At Christopher Kane’s show, models wore very boyish quiffs that were created to look accidental – just like the ones sported by men after they’ve run their fingers through their hair. Height at the roots is great for balancing out and elongating a wider, rounder face and will appeal to those who find the flattened roots trend unflattering (it doesn’t work so well on rounder face shapes and those who don’t have angular facial features or defined cheekbones). To recreate the new season quiff, a little strong-hold gel or texturizing wax will work, followed by plenty of hairspray. The modern beehive will require a little more work: a fine-tooth comb and plenty of backcombing are essential. | 31


The bright and vibrant shades that dominated this summer will continue through to next season, but in a slightly toned-down way. A muted version of summer’s all-over highlighter-pen hues, A/W17’s palette will be more punky, but equally as daring, with cobalt blue and canary yellow predicted to take over from neon yellow and luminous green. Colour won’t be worn all over, as it was over summer. Instead, as seen at Versace, where the models wore brightly coloured extensions woven in to monotone locks, wearing single strips of brightly coloured hair can add just as much impact. Extensions are a great way to try bursts of extreme colour, without the commitment of a colour treatment and without the need for a precolour lightening. Temporary colour chalks and sprays are also a non-committal way to try out this fun trend. Keep the rest of the hair neutral, with a colour as close to your natural shade as possible.

Hayley Gibson-Forbes SEA GREEN

When it comes to bright colour, last season was all about neon highlighter-pen yellow-green, whereas this season we will see more muted shades of green. Issey Miyake’s models wore mermaidinspired shades of azure, jade and emerald, with sections of hair dyed oceanic tones, before being sectioned off and wrapped around the entire head, like a headband. It’s a continuation of a theme we saw at Versace – chunky blocks of bright colour rather than overall tints – and a stunning way to add bold tones to the hair, without committing to an all-over colour change.

Harriett Franks PUNKY PALETTE

We saw a lot of neon at festivals over the summer and now Versace’s A/W17 show is ensuring that bold statement colour is a trend that’s here to stay. We’ve moved on slightly from the overall block colour and highlighter-pen shades of summer: the Versace models wore strips of extensions in punky shades of orange, cobalt and yellow, which contrasted starkly with the models’ own monotone locks, graphic black eye make-up and bleached brows. Extensions are a great way to add extreme colour without compromising the integrity of the hair and are perfect for clients nervous about colour, however for a more dynamic take on the punky colour trend, try painting shades of canary yellow, brick red and cobalt blue, haphazardly, so they appear effortlessly applied. Blue Tit’s latest colouring technique, Prisma, creates an end result that is full of vivid deconstructed colours and distorted patterns. It’s a bold and daring way to try out this colourful trend. 32 | SalonNV Magazine

This season’s Colour Trends Grace Dalgleish, Brook & Brooks Amazing Grace

Grace Dalgleish from Brook & Brooks, London is ahead of the game when it comes to colour. Nominated for newcomer of the year at the British Hairdressing Awards this year, big things are expected of Grace and she has shared with us what she expects to be the big looks this autumn/winter. She said: “Gone are the days of booking in for a half head of highlights or a tint, colour is unique to the individual and personal to the hair this season. With bespoke services becoming the norm, hair colouring has changed and AW17 is an exciting time for colour.” Here’s Grace’s three key colour trends for the season:


Varnishing hair is the new add-on service for all colour clients. Adding a dot of pink to the blonde formula will take it from dab to fab in an instant, leaving a luxurious, expensive finish. The glaze will last up to two weeks and fade back to the original blonde, leaving a Champagne hue. Perfect for clients who have fair skin as the extra dash of colour will add warmth to their complexion and stop them feeling and looking washed out.


Head-to-toe full commitment, this isn’t for the light hearted, but your pre-lightened clients will love its versatility. Whether it’s lilac undertones, or full-on metallic silver, it’s a look that they can change as often as their nail varnish. Perfect for the chameleon client who likes to switch up their look, they can go from pastel metallic to ice queen vibes, this can be personalised to make a statement.


This trend is replacing the metallic palette. With a range of coppers to choose from, there’s something for all skin types and hair types – from peachy hues to deep and vibrant, it’s best kept matte and undone. Perfect for clients who want a lazy-girl texture and a more natural tone.


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HO: 01952 462505/463574. Or email | 33

Welsh Takeover

The next King and Queen of Wales? By Katie Margereson

We got the fast becoming Queen of Hair Education, Gemma Amura, and the reigning King of Barbering, James Williams, together to give us the low down on their recent accomplishments. Both hailing from Wales, these firm friends are on quite a journey!

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There are certain people in the hairdressing world that you just know are going to be around for a very long time producing great work and inspiring others: one of those people is Gemma Amura. As part of the Paul Mitchell family, Gemma is building quite a name for herself in the industry. She creates great work but she also has a vibe which can’t be replicated. Having worked her way up in industry she is now becoming a force in training and education whilst being a source of motivation. The 32-year old shared the journey she has been on to reach this point in her career. “I started my hairdressing career after completing a BTEC Diploma in Performing Arts. As a child I tried to colour my sister’s hair with toilet bleach before learning I could purchase bleach in supermarkets and would tin foil friend’s hair while hiding from our mums.” Gemma is bundle of energy and oozes warmth which can’t help but make people feel good. This coupled with her energy was particularly useful at the beginning of her hairdressing journey with the hard work it takes an apprentice. “I worked in the salon five days a week and on my days off would volunteer to help doing hair anywhere and everything. I met lots of people and my passion was getting stronger and stronger. I was soon working seven days a week. I would write letters to every television show, trade show, and magazine I could to ask if I could help. Sometimes it was for free, sometimes I was getting paid. I was earning £80 a week and money really wasn’t what it was about for me.” The effort was well worth it and Gemma learned that she was a finalist at the British Hairdressing Awards. “I will never ever forget how much me and my dad cried when I received the news that I was a finalist,” she says. That same year Gemma was also a finalist at L’Oréal Talent Spotting. She also toured with the late Terry Calvert in Spain, it was at this point that she knew she was on the right track. “At that time I wore a smile that I knew

was never going to fade! I had fallen in love, in love with a career I knew was my home! It ran through my veins!” After working in salon for three years, Gemma attended a cutting course in London. “I watched the guys on the stage, I was in awe. They were humble, kind, and so passionate. They made it seem so easy, I wanted to be them! In typically me style I asked them how do I get to be where they were.” This turning point resulted in Gemma working as an Education Product Ambassador as well as being in the salon full time for the next four years. “This was the grounding that I needed. I was finally ready for full time life on the road. I now work full time as an educator… my dream!” Now looking after Paul Mitchell colour salons throughout UK and as part of the Paul Mitchell Artistic team Gemma gets to travel around Europe for shows and events in venues that range from a class of ten to a venue the size of the Royal Albert Hall. “As part of the Education Leadership group at Salon Success I am also responsible for writing course content that we deliver throughout UK and Europe. I adore this role, I am just a year into it so I definitely have to work hard to not distract the entire office! I’m used to chatting A LOT!” Gemma took some time this year to fulfil a desire to help The Cocoas foundation. This charity aims to help families and orphaned children affected by HIV in Africa in any way they can. “I joined the volunteer programme and four months later I was packing my bags, ready to volunteer and build a home from a family in South Africa! I held charity evenings and raised £3,000 which was enough to build a home. I mentally prepared for long hours, gruelling physical work, and upsetting scenes but in all honesty no amount of mental preparation could have prepared me for what happened next. “I arrived at the local village on our first day. I went to visit a family in their home. I walked in to find babies face down sleeping on the

dirt floor of a home smaller than what we consider a box room. Then it started to rain, the rain poured indoors, the dirt floor turned into mud and the lady looking after eight children could not pick them all up. I picked the baby up and I sobbed. That night my stomach felt so strong I could have been sick. I knew I had to help but I knew I needed help to be able to help them.” And she did it with one social media post, Gemma wrote exactly how she felt and woke up the next day to enough money to build this family a home. “In total we built two homes, painted endless amounts, cried a river, met the most amazing children I’ve ever met, took after school clubs, took the children and bought schools uniforms for them, and learned how precious a bar of soap is! I am now sponsoring for life the entire family that we built a home. They will get a fresh water supply and monthly food supplies as well as candles to light their home and soap. It’s a small amount compared to our living.” As far as plans for the future, Gemma says: “I want to show every future hairdresser that this is the industry that breeds talent, positivity and a career that they will adore! I am travelling to Rome soon with part of the Paul Mitchell Artistic team and can’t wait to be at Salon International and the Alternative Hair show in the Royal Albert Hall. I will return to Africa soon to visit the family I sponsor and as for the rest who knows!” | 35


James Williams-

JIM THE TRIM How great would it be to do a job that you love whilst doing a wonderful thing for others? James Williams is doing just that. Known in the industry as ‘Jim the Trim’, James is mixing his love for hairdressing and barbering with helping autistic children at the same time. If you’ve ever witnessed a child with autism have their hair cut you’ll know it can be a stressful process not only for the stylist but for the child themselves. The reason for this is unclear but being restrained in the chair, the sound of the clippers, and the itchy feeling of cut hair all plays a part. The attention span of autistic children can be short in certain situations making it all the more difficult. The 28-year old recognised the predicament both hairdressers and children have to go through and decided he could help change that. Using simple measures such as allowing the child to move around, giving them distractions and most importantly having patience and understanding of the condition can make the experience much easier for all. James and his peers offer a wonderful service in the form of a non profit organization ‘Autism Barbers Assemble’. These specialized barbers travel the country for monthly events offering this much needed and truly inspiring service. James is not only a superhero to kids he’s also a well respected award winning barber.

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Scooping the Welsh Men’s Hairdresser of the Year, being a Wahl British Barber of the Year Finalist, and most recently being crowned the British Barbers Associations Barber of the Year, he is truly at the top of his game. “My biggest achievement this year was winning BBA British Barber of the Year, but also filming for my autism documentary which is later to be realised end of this year.”

Originally trained as a hairdresser Jim worked in a high end salon with Andrew Lewis of Emmanuel’s, which helped him understand the foundations of hairdressing. When learning barbering he gained a stronger clientele with men’s hair in the salon which resulted in him becoming manager of the barber shop at a remarkably young age. Realising this was his future he left a few years later to experience a more traditional barbershop using more old school methods. In 2014 the Jim the Trim barber shop opened in Briton ferry based between Neath and Swansea. “I have brilliant staff who I have trained, running all booked-up on appointments so we can say the business is on the right track “I’m looking forward to moving forward with my plans for Autism Barbers Assemble this year. We recently organised an event in Wales helping autistic children get haircuts raising just under £1,000 for charity. “We are also going to be at the British Master Barbers taking Autism Barbers on the main stage for the first time. We’ll be telling people who we are and what our aims are with the organisation.”

James started out when he was 17 with little interest in hairdressing his mother suggested using his creative side in the form of hairdressing and so the journey began.

James will soon be taking his first steps into education across the UK and internationally. “I’m always looking to help people progress in their work so that’s something I want to play a big part in.”


James has huge respect for his friend, saying:

Gemma is an amazing woman, I always see her on social media doing fantastic things with hair shows and her recent trip to Africa helping others. She is an inspirational person in the hair industry.

The respect is reciprocated by Gemma, who says:

I admire James for everything he has done and continues to bring to this industry. In an industry with an abundance of talent it is difficult some times to stand out, let alone create your own identity. What James has created is though pure heart, to meet a fellow hairdresser that not only exudes talent but uses it for the greater good, well that’s the exact reason why I admire him. He has used his platform to create awareness not of himself or his salon but autism. He has a special heart and I couldn’t be more proud of him. My fellow Welshy!

Having two young talents in the hair industry living their dreams whilst helping others at the same time is a great example to set for the future generation of hairdressers. | 37

Winner! Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards IN ASSOCIATION WITH


Best Lash Artist

It’s been a truly incredible year for Kate Baxter, and winning the SHABA for Best Lash Artist was the icing on the cake. The talented beautician from Inverness has gone from beloved local business to internationally renowned in the past 12 months, taking home a global award from lash giants NovaLash alongside her SHABA crown. NovaLash Ambassador So how did it all happen? How do you take the step from small town to the world stage? For Kate it was just a matter of taking a chance and putting her name out there – not to mention taking advantage of NovaLash finally opening up their LashOff event to a global audience last October. “I thought to myself, ‘oh why not, I’ll give it a go’,” Kate tells us on her first decision to take a shot at the title. Just entering meant getting out of her comfort zone. Kate explains that “you have to do a video when you apply with all the different criteria. Putting the video together was completely new thing for me and it was actually okay!” It certainly went better than “okay”, with Kate invited out to the NovaLash head offices in Houston, Texas for the LashOff grand finale. Getting over her initial surprise at making it through, Kate made the trip and came home with the Volume Award! An amazing achievement that set her up nicely for the rest of the year. The Dolls House When Kate isn’t winning award after award, she’s keeping the people of Inverness looking fabulous and glamorous at top beauty salon The Dolls House. Alongside a team of talented beauticians, Kate and her colleagues have built it into the must-go beauty boutique in the area. There’s no doubt that Kate is happy there, saying: “We have a great team. We do a bit of everything: make-up and hair, hair extensions, botox and fillers, the whole look. It’s not just a place to get your nails or lashes done.

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“There’s a lovely atmosphere in the salon – everyone is so friendly and welcoming. We have the music on and the clients can relax with a glass of bubbly in their hand and they love it.” When people think of great salon and the best beauticians, their minds automatically drift to the likes of London, or in Scotland, Glasgow and Edinburgh – not so much Inverness. But Kate doesn’t believe that being so far north has had a negative impact on her, and her awards certainly suggest that. “It hasn’t affected my career at all. Being up in Inverness and away from the big cities doesn’t affect the demand. Even the small towns near Inverness have become very big for eyelash extensions – it doesn’t feel like being left behind. Trainer The scale of the demand for Kate’s talents can be seen now more than ever after she became one of NovaLash’s educators in Scotland. Kate says: “July was my first class and it’s been solidly booked every month.” Her next class in November has only two spaces remaining at the time of writing, which will surely have been snapped up by the time this goes to print. Such demand is fantastic for Kate and shows that away from the glitz and glamour of her awards, she is valued most of all in her local community – what every artist should strive for. However, there’s one more achievement we had to discuss with her of course. SHABA Winning at the Scottish Hair and Beauty

Awards is something many hair and beauty professionals rank as the pinnacle of their career, and it was a fantastic and welldeserved victory for Kate in a very tough category. And to think she almost didn’t enter! “I entered last year and having not won it, I was a bit apprehensive about entering again,” Kate explains. “But because I would be attending the event to see the rest of the team and would see the other finalists I thought I’d just go for it. “I really didn’t expect to win, it was quite amazing. It took a few second to sink in – ‘did they just say my name?’” Unfortunately Kate was working the next day, so celebrations weren’t quite as over the top as she might have liked – but the client always comes first! That’s the attitude that has seen her rise to the top of the industry. Future Now that she’s coming to the end of the most decorated and fantastic year of her professional career, what’s next for Kate Baxter?

Photo by John Baikie

“You never know,” she says wisely. “I didn’t expect my career to achieve so much in such a short amount of time. Look at this year, with Houston, then becoming a NovaLash trainer, then the SHABA awards, it’s a lot to cram into one year! “I don’t know how I can top it. I’ll just keep doing what I do, improving more and more. I want to keep up the training as well, which I see as being like a mum other lash artists and hopefully they can go on and win awards. That would be another accolade to see some of them win an award.” | 39

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-Up: Laure n Kay Stylin g: AC ogra Stud pher io : Luk e Nu gent

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Winner! Byron Hairdressing: Best Hair Salon Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards IN ASSOCIATION WITH

You don’t win Best Salon at SHABA by chance. There’s years of hard work behind the scenes to get to that point and the story behind Byron Hairdressing in Kirkcaldy is no different. Owner Ronnie Marshall has spent 25 years building his dream salon, and boy has he done it right. Origins

The Team

After a few years building up his talents in a successful salon in Fife, in 1992 Ronnie felt the time was right to launch his own venture. At only 26 years old, he was still young, but his enthusiasm and passion certainly helped.

So what does a Byron hairdresser need to succeed? What makes them stand out from the rest? And how does Ronnie know he’s picked a winner?

From the outset Ronnie had a singular vision. “The key thing was to create a fantastic experience for our clients,” Ronnie tells us, reminiscing about his first days at Byron. “Somewhere where it wasn’t just about haircuts, it was the whole experience. I wanted to have people working beside me who were like minded and I could give them the opportunity to grow and develop together.” For that reason there was never any thought of the shop being named after Ronnie: “It’s not about me, it’s always been about the whole team of people. “Without the team we wouldn’t have the salon. The team have got to believe in what we’re doing and have got to want to do it – the ethos behind Byron is definitely the team.

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He tells us: “It’s an interview process and it takes time. It’s important that we find people who fit in with the rest of the team. After the interview we do quality tests. “With stylists it comes down to the quality of their work, but you learn a lot from questions in the interview and the way people react. What are their goals? What do they want to achieve? But no matter what you ask or do, you don’t really know how someone is truly going to fit in until they start.” The Byron method certainly works – Ronnie tells us that 75% of the team have been with him for 10 years or more. For Ronnie it’s all about finding the innate features that make them a great hairdresser. “You can’t teach someone desire,” he says. “We can teach and continually focus on great customer care but desire has to be something that comes from the inside to do it

Team that plays together stays together Key to keeping morale high at Byron Hairdressing has been a host of team building and charity events over the past decade. From walking 19 miles through the Cairngorns to raise money for Maggie’s Centres, an organisation that supports anyone affected by cancer and other terminal illness, to nights out for awards ceremonies and dinners, the team stick together. Over the past 10 years they have raised an incredible £40,000 for Maggie’s, a fantastic achievement that has brought immeasurable help to so many people. It also helps to foster team spirit in the camp and explains why 75% of the staff have been at Byron for 10 years or more.

successfully and naturally.” Customer Care Every top salon has great customer care, so Ronnie had to find a way to go above and beyond to ensure Byron offers something special. He says: “In the salon we take time to get to know our clients. We have all the same things other salons do: we offer top quality refreshments, we have a great reception team that looks after our clients when they come in, but the key focus is it’s always about the customer, about understanding their needs. “We need to get them to open up and tell us what they are looking for what they are looking to achieve with us. That is a huge thing for us.” To truly understand his clients, Ronnie came up with a novel way of reaching out to them. Rather than relying on the odd comment in passing in the salon, he gives his clients a survey to encourage them to let him know how he can improve Byron. “We do it once a year and target various areas,” Ronnie explains. “This year it was about our online booking service. We tried to get as much info from the clients so we know what we are delivering is the right service. If it’s achievable then we implement it. “Even just the simple things, like for example we had a number of people criticising one of the daily newspapers

we had so we changed it to another paper. I think that’s what clients want to hear – they want to feel like they’ve been listened to.” SHABA For Ronnie, SHABA was a chance to combine Byron’s relationship with their clients and his appreciation for his staff into one night of celebration. He says: “SHABA was very much a client led thing. We were very involved with our clients, asking them if they’d want to vote for us and how to do so. We had a lot of them who said they voted and left lovely comments so our clients are very much excited about it as well. “When we won it our clients gave us great feedback and thought it was fantastic. From our point of view it couldn’t have happened without them. “Most of the team were with us on the night – it wasn’t just about me, it was about the whole salon so everyone was invited along and everyone was really excited about it. I think it’s a key thing that everyone was there so everybody felt the impact of it.” Future “You’re only as good as your last award” says Ronnie, so we can expect Byron to continue entering competitions and striving for success. But most importantly, his priorities lie closer to home. “I think the future is concentrating on giving a great client experience, and continuing to develop a team through education.” Do that, and the awards will surely keep flowing. || 43 43

Winner! Moi Beauty: Best Beauty Salon Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Constantly evolving is the key to staying at the top of your game, and if there’s one thing Moi Beauty can’t be accused of it’s standing still. Owner Claire McColl has overseen extensions and moves in her 12 years at the helm, watching Moi grow and grow into the awardwinning salon it is today. Formative Years 44 | SalonNV Magazine


t’s been quite a journey for Claire and Moi to get to the fashionable and contemporary looking salon they have today in Morningside, Edinburgh. Although physically not far from where it all began for Moi, the past decade has seen a lot of changes. Having bought out her business partner shortly after opening, Claire was determined to do things her way, giving a fantastic client experience and bringing what the customers wanted to the area. After gaining a boost in customers through the nail bar when shellac came onto the scene, Moi eventually began to lose customers who were travelling into town for the full nail bar experience rather than Moi’s small charms. But Claire was quick to act.

She says: “A unit came up around the corner which was perfect for a big nail bar and had a separate area for an eyebrow bar. The original salon became more of a luxurious treatments room. We had that for a few years and got a lot more high street clients for treatments. “The industry changed so much over those years; from monthly facials and manicures and eyebrow threading and tanning all done a lot more. My aim was always to have it under the one roof.” Fortunately a client tipped her off to a much bigger premises coming on the market and eventually Moi moved to their current location.

Current Salon There was never any question of Moi moving into the city centre, away from its current client base. But a big, beautiful, corner position, still within walking distance for all their regular clients was absolutely ideal. The only problem they had when they moved… Claire was pregnant with twins.

“The industry changed so much over those years; from monthly facials and manicures and eyebrow threading and tanning all done a lot more. My aim was always to have it under the one roof.”

She says: “It wasn’t very good timing! The twins came early and actually came the week that we moved!” Having survived that, Moi began to grow. “Having a new salon generated a lot of new clients,” Claire says. “It’s on a corner that’s very good for clients driving by and it’s more eye-catching. The frontage is all windows and it’s very bright so you can see in and see what we do, especially with the nail bar in the window. “In the old salon we had a row of three nail positions and I only wanted to do the move if we could do four and if we could put in another chair for eyebrows, pedicures, that kind of thing. We were too busy at times like Christmas when people would come with their friends, so we had to make it bigger.”

SHABA With their beautiful, new salon in place some of the Moi staff started to think big – they started to think of awards, something which couldn’t have been further from Claire’s mind. “We’ve never really put ourselves forward for awards, mostly because of me and almost this fear of getting put down, so it was actually my manager Nicola Collins who said ‘I think we should do this!” Nicola was right to do so, with Moi Beauty taking home the much sought after Best Beauty Salon award at SHABA in front of 500 fellow industry professionals and a host of legends. “It was fab!” Claire tells us as she looks back on the gala dinner and awards. “I couldn’t believe it. We absolutely didn’t expect it and were just delighted to get enough votes to get into the final. Actually, on the day I said to the girls I’ve written

down what I’m going to put on Facebook if we don’t win, so that I can get my point across and say thank you to everyone who voted for us. Then someone said ‘what if you win?’ I hadn’t written anything because I didn’t want to tempt fate, so when our name was called I burst into tears, it was lovely!”

Winning Touch As a real all-rounder of a salon, it’s impossible to pick one area where Moi Beauty might have outshined their competitors in the final, but for Claire it’s all about the personal touch that she and her team provide. “We have a lot of regular clients who come back often, and the girls are amazing. We do a lot of events with local businesses, we do fashion shows for the local school, and offer the clients special one day offers.” This community aspect has made Moi an important part of the Morningside furniture over the past decade, and Claire is always keen to add more little touches of loveliness to improve clients’ visits – whether it’s hand massages or offering champagne with every manicure and pedicure.

Pushing On While Claire certainly has her hands full with an award-winning salon and three small children, she’s still looking to the future and how Moi can once again move with the times. “I’d love to open another Moi in Edinburgh in the future. We need to hold off for the moment, especially with having three little ones, but I would love to take it to the next level.” We can’t wait to see what Claire comes up with. | 45

Christmas Gift Guide

It seems to come earlier and earlier every year… But you need to be prepared for Christmas in your salon and the sooner you get in the latest gift sets, the sooner you’ll hear that ringing. No, not Santa’s sleigh bells, but the ringing of your till as your customers snap them up and hide them in the back of their closet until December 25th. Most companies have recognised the value of the Christmas gift set and it’s one of the bestselling times of year for retail salons so here’s a few of the packs likely to be big sellers this festive season, from tanning kits to skin supplements you can stay on top of what your customers will be in the market for over the next two months.

Elemis Countdown to Radiant Skin Celebrate every day of advent with this fabulous calendar from Elemis. Containing 24 very special boxes filled with Elemis heroes and award-winners for you to discover every single day in the lead up to Christmas. Climaxing in the ultimate gift on the 24th, a full size Pro-Collagen Marine Cream. With over £300 worth of products, it’s great value. £150 –

Bio-Essence 24K Bio Gold Range This glittering range by Bio-Essence makes for the perfect present, pampering stocking filler, or Secret Santa gift to make a loved one feel amazing this Christmas. Containing flakes of 24K gold, when absorbed by the skin it releases active gold ions rich in trace minerals that promote blood and oxygen circulation which improves the skin’s metabolism.

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Murad Joyful Beauty A seasonal selection of beautiful gifts inspired by Murad’s wonderful skincare range. These limited edition collections are presented in a festive box for an added touch of sparkle, each containing a three-step routine to help create party perfect skin this Christmas. Joyful & Rejuvenated contsins a selection of beauty boosters, while Joyful & Radiant helps protect against environmental aggressors, Joyful & Renewed reduces the appearance of medium to deep wrinkles, and the Ultimate Skin Perfectors help restore youthful radiance. All contain double their price in products. £65 –

Kure Bazaar Glitters Gifts Bar A collection of 13 high-impact and multi-tonal glitter nail polishes. Dazzle it up by layering over a classic nail colour or tip the nail with sparkles to make them pop! £15 –

Leighton Denny Gift Sets Celebrate colour and the quality of being female with colours that are expertly matched together to keep your nails looking elegant and illuminated this festive season. Leighton Denny have a number of options including two from their Colour Soiree Collection, with either their Best Sellers or if you’re feeling more Christmassy, why not go for The Glitters. £10+ - | 47

milk_shake Mlky Bear Gift Sets Keep your hair protected this winter with these limited edition gift sets tailored to your hair type. Not only does each set contain two full size milk_shake hero products, it also has a limited edition cuddly bear called Milky! So whether you need the Colour Care Hair Set, the Repair & Care Hair Set, or the Blonde Care Hair Set, there’s a Milky for you! £24.99 –

Pevonia Festive Recovery Bring the sensory experience of the spa home this Christmas. Perfect for de-stressing mind and and body as you wash away toxins and replenish skin moisture for a healthy, rejuvenated look. Pevonia’s natural bath and body oils feature rosemary and grapefruit Vitality to invigorate and energise, and lavender and grape seed Serenity to relax and calm. Presented in a clear box with blue sleeve and sealed with a festive silver ribbon. £14 + VAT –

Fake Bake Flawless Cracker Coconut Serum with Compact & Brush Give the gift of Fake Bake this festive season with a brand new collection of gift sets from the world’s number one independent tanning brand, the Christmas collection consists of four sizzling gift sets to suit every skin tone, budget, occasion, and desired finish – our favourite is the luscious coconut serum. £20 + VAT –

Fab Brows Christmas Set Christmas is the perfect time to pick up this set of fabulous eyebrow kits from Fab Brows at a vastly reduced rate! Discounted especially for the festive season, this special pack contains the Duo Eyebrow Kit, Fab Trio Powder, and Fab Miraculous Growth Eyeliner £30 –

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THE POWER OF PRO-COLLAGEN For firmer, younger-looking skin

Talk to us today to find out how ELEMIS can boost your business. +44 (0) 20 7907 2724 I I ELEMIS.COM/NEWBUSINESS *

Independent Clinical Trials. | 49

Following the Fellowship The Fellowship are certainly one of the most hands-on bodies in the hairdressing industry. From their ClubStar Art Team to their variety of masterclasses, they always have something to keep their members excited. Let’s check in on what they’ve been up to since our last issue.a ClubStar It was a day of men’s hairdressing for the ClubStar Art Team as they headed to the HOB Academy in London for a day with male grooming expert Chris Foster. With the team having varying levels of experience in male hairdressing, Chris delivered a diverse workshop, combining classic cuts with more advanced ones to cater to everyone’s skillset. Armed with his full kit bag, Chris shared the fundamentals of barbering, demonstrating how to use clipper over comb correctly and talked the team through how to use razor cutting to blend, removing the length and weight while texturising.


F.A.M.E. and Colour Project

F.A.M.E. and Colour Project Monday 18th September was an exciting day for two of the Fellowship’s teams, as the F.A.M.E. squad headed north to Newcastle for a day of shooting with iconic hairdressing duo Hooker & Young, while the Colour Project came together at the L’Oreal Academy in London for a day of colour inspiration with Carolyn Newman. For the F.A.M.E. team it was a chance to quiz Gary and Michael on their incredible careers and pick up a variety of hints and tips as they move forward with their own. Gary and Michael had also brought along a clothes and make-up stylists so the F.A.M.E. members could create a true overall look to the theme of Dark Romance. Meanwhile the Colour Project guys and girls got the opportunity to plan their Salon International stage show with Carolyn. As well as giving them top tips for the show, she spent time getting the team to explore how to create their own colour techniques.

Masterclass Cardiff had its first taste of a Fellowship event with a hugely successful Masterclass at the beautiful Cornerstone, a former chapel. Ken Picton was the host for the night, putting his heart and soul into the event alongside Events Director Ann Herman.


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On the line-up were familiar local faces and others from further away. Mark Coray from Coray and Co, Simon Webster and Lora Griffin from Simon Webster Hair, Steven Goldsworthy from Goldsworthy’s, Lee Brown from Lara Johnson Lifestyle, Harriet Young, Scott Evans, and Jade Pointon from Ken Picton, and Zoe Williams and Jamie Benny from 2016’s F.A.M.E. Team. Errol Douglas also came along to take the stage as a special guest. It was a great chance for the assembled audience to learn from some true experts.

Presentation Skills Workshop Four hairdressers with dreams of earning a place on the F.A.M.E. Team, Project X, Colour Project, or ClubStar initiatives came together to learn from Edward Hemmings from Alan d Academy on how to present their work. Edward taught them everything they would need to know about presenting and public speaking, before putting them through their paces as the group presented to one another.

Project X Avant-garde was the focus of Project X’s most recent workshop. Led by one of the industry’s top up-and-coming names, Ashleigh Hodges, the team came together at the Alan d Academy in London to let their creativity run wild and work on something a little different to their average client cut. Ashleigh asked each member of the team to choose something that inspired them from the natural world and explore how they would develop this into a hair collection. The workshop was a complete creative session for the team to create their own hair pieces and to play with hair, working with it as pure fabric.

Scholarship Fellowship Scholarship winner Georgina Cadwallader from KJM Salons in Fleet took her journey to the next level as she took on the Sassoon Blondes course at the Sassoon Academy in London. It was three days of colour correcring, toning, and everything in between. Georgina’s mentors taught her everything she needed to know about colour choice in relation to depth, tone, warm and cool skin tones, application, and technique through guided sessions and demonstrations. Practical colour sessions on models combined with lectures and theory meant there was never a dull moment. Georgina left the course with a greater understanding of the principles of colour theory, as well as bring an expert in the importance of accurate application. | 51

The Barclay Wolf concept was launched in 2015 with over 50 years of combined experience in the arena, and in June 2016 Barclay Wolf won the Look Awards ‘Innovation Product of the Year’. Since its inception the company has grown from strength to strength and supplies salons in the UK including Harrods, branches of Rainbow Room International and Saks, and direct to salons in Europe. The cosmetics industry is a huge global market valued at approximately US$ 40 billion, and with a strong worldwide demand, hair extensions have become the most requested salon service to date. Barclay Wolf now distribute in Ireland, Spain and Switzerland, and are in negotiations with distributors in The Netherlands, Scandinavia, the Middle East, Canada, as well as North and South America. The growth in the hair extensions market continues to be driven by innovative new products which save time and salon overheads, as well as increased profits and returning clientele. Bringing revolutionary changes to the hair extensions industry, Barclay Wolf have researched and carefully developed new products to meet consumer demand. The company recently launched a range of 14” Double-drawn Tape Extensions and 14” Triple-drawn Tape Extensions at Salon International. The company also offer ‘private label’ brands to wholesalers, individual stylists, salons, and salon groups allowing those who promote heavily via social media to promote their own exclusive brand safe in the knowledge that Barclay Wolf ’s branding and product experts will provide powerful brands and products that are backed up by the company’s quality control and guarantee. Tape Hair Extensions are the most requested salon service, offer the highest profit of any salon service currently available (a minimum of £250 profit in under 40 minutes), and are the preferred method of salons in LA, Miami and Australia. Once applied, Barclay Wolf Tape Hair Extensions will stay in the client’s hair for up to 3 months, they are then removed, re-taped and reapplied. This can be done several times with the correct aftercare. Tape extensions are suitable for ALL hair types including fine hair and are the most comfortable and secure method of attachment. Barclay Wolf also manufacture Microrings and Pre-bonds in 36 colours, three lengths, and two hair grades By charging a very affordable £399 for a full-head of tape extensions, and having just 3 extensions clients per week, salons will add over £62,000 to their turnover (just 2 clients per week would add £41,500) which equates to a minimum of £39,000 profit and further income from the 3 monthly maintenance, and there is no need to buy any special equipment as they are applied by hand, all is required would be to attend one of our training courses which are held throughout the UK and Ireland once a month.

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14”, 18” and 22” Tape-in, 18” and 22” Micro-ring, and 14”, 18” and 22” Prebonded extensions ‘Invisible’ 18” Tape Extensions to be used on the outside of the extension ‘sandwich’ Beautifully packaged with built-in storage for unused products and client aftercare guide 36 colours  Pre-mixed highlight blondes Ombre shades Pastel colours Ethically sourced Virgin Remy hair Double-drawn and Triple-drawn ratios Retail Wetline product range with countertop display stand Backwash and Professional products Free point-of-sale Training courses across the UK in-salon training and Sunday training available Private Label Brands of Hair Extensions and Wetline Products

“Customer Service is not a company department, it’s a core principal of business” - Mitchell Barclay

Contact 01277415610, Follow us on social media for the latest news and new products.

www. barclaywolf. com | 53

Ariane Poole* Salon Program Salon satisfaction from the queen of daytime TV and make-up specialist to the stars, Ariane Poole. Reinvigorate your business and increase revenues with a bespoke program designed around your needs and maximising your salon’s potential. Ariane has helped define the make-up industry over the past 30-years. Internationally renowned, she has been called upon by the likes of Max Factor, Miss Selfridge, and Molton Brown to assist on major advertising campaigns, while she spent four years helping to develop Boots No7 and training make-up artists for the brand.

shop, with the Ariane Poole* Salon Program you get so much more than that.

You’ll recognise Ariane’s face from her many television appearances over the years, including seven years on GMTV and six years on This Morning as their Beauty Presenter. When the media require a knowledgeable and experienced make-up expert, it’s Ariane they call on.

The Ariane Poole* Salon Program is all about the personal touch and Ariane regularly attends in-salon events that allow your clients to gain even more product knowledge from the brand founder – the type of unique selling point that will set your salon apart from your competitors.

Bringing all that expertise together, Ariane created Ariane Poole* Cosmetics. The result is a unique product range that women of all ages identify with. They trust Ariane’s reputation and they love the brand. Attracting clients into your salon is the easy part, but how you get them spending more and ensure they come back? The answer is by providing them with a service they can’t get anywhere else. Rather than just placing a retail stand in your

Ariane Poole

Your staff will receive free product training so they are comfortable explaining the benefits of the Ariane Poole* Cosmetic Range to your customers and Ariane herself provides expert make-up training if required.

Fantastic wholesale pricing, access to free online make-up training program of 60 videos, and no commitment to purchase the whole range, just what will suit your clientele, means that you are able to reenergise your salon, motivate your staff with a fabulous, easy to sell range, and improve customer satisfaction and retention. For more information please contact us on 0845 680 3459


Trust Ariane “If you are a salon thinking of offering make-up application and retail the Ariane Poole* salon program will be great for you. We have a unique range of products that we can customise to suit your demographic. You will be able to offer make-up application to your clients for weddings, proms, and makeup lessons plus you will be able to offer the products that you have used as retail. Once your staff have been trained with the products they will find they are so easy to use and so easy to sell. Your client will love what your makeup artist has shown them.

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The range is very user friendly for the client & the makeup artist. Your staff members don’t have to have previous makeup application experience all we ask is that they like and are interested in makeup we will do the rest. The feedback from all salons has been very positive. They have found an increase in revenue and footfall. The products are very easy to retail – no hard sell required. Salons also love the fact the range also caters to their 40+ clients (who spend the most on themselves. We want your client to feel “The Best You At Any Age.””

What the salons say

Salons already signed up include

Barbara Pointon, Barbara Pointon Facial Aesthetics You can’t not be impressed with the brand. Ariane’s experience, her personality, and everything she’s done – it really sells it. When Ariane comes to see us she does product training with the girls so they know exactly what information to convey to customers. She’s very hands on and knows her brand inside out. We now use Ariane Poole* Cosmetics for prom makeovers and bridal makeovers as well – because clients use it and love it one these occasions, they will definitely buy something. Because we are a clinic we also link it with the treatments we do here. If someone has a hardcore treatment and feels a little bit red, we use Ariane’s concealer. Clients are super impressed.

Andrew Collinge Andrew Barton Tim Scott-Wright Brendan O’Sullivan Charles Worthington Urban Hair and Beauty

Poole of talent Make-up artist to the stars Ariane Poole has worked with more Hollywood stars than any blockbuster director! She’s even done the make-up for royalty. • Catherine Zeta Jones

Marlene Lamont, Urban Hair and Beauty

• Rachel Weisz

We didn’t have any beauty in the salon until Ariane came up and taught my team. She was up for two weekends and the girls had an amazing time with her at two events. It’s had a big impact on bringing in clients who are loving what we can now offer them. She taught my daughter Samantha who is doing fantastically well now because she has only learned from Ariane. I can’t recommend her enough.

• Uma Thurman • Cilla Black • Helena Bonham Carter • Princess Von Furstenburg • Thandie Newton • Donatello Versace • Queen Noor of Jordan • Jackie Collins • Tess Daley

Urban Hair & Beauty

• Tara Banks | 55


From their first salon in Wimbledon, 25 years ago to the opening of their new Academy in the heart of London’s Covent Garden, RUSH Hair have established themselves to be the fastest growing hairdressing group in the UK. Renowned for their passion and drive along with commitment to continually improving and developing everything they do, the team led by lifelong friends, cofounders, and joint C.E.Os., Andy Phouli and Stellios Andrew have achieved recognition for both their creativity and business acumen, winning a plethora of accolades including 13 British Hairdressing Awards and a place on the Sunday Times Top 100 Places to Work. In 1994, RUSH Hair was born and the pair opened the very first salon in their local Wimbledon. They worked long hours and put everything into making the salon a success. It wasn’t only great hairdressing clients were looking for it was also great service. This philosophy is as relevant to RUSH Hair today being 90 salons strong as it was in 1994 when Stell and Andy opened their first salon. From the success of Wimbledon, the duo went on to open their second salon and then a third in Sutton in 1998. It was at this time that they could feel the business change. The salon was busy from day one, the work the team was producing was incredible, the atmosphere was exciting, and the training that RUSH Hair was providing was second to none, with stylists continually asking how they could work with RUSH and be educated by them. It was here that they realised that training their team internally was the way to go, and the only way to keep the consistency of the brand as well as delivering fantastic services. The appointment of Operations Manager George Phouli and the opening of the new Head Office sparked another key progression

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for the brand. Education was key to their success and it was at this time that Stell founded the RUSH Artistic Team with Andy Heasman and Tina Farey. Stell knew that the creation of the team would provide incredible opportunities and really open the door for the RUSH Hair brand in the UK and Internationally. They set the benchmark for the entire RUSH Team in terms of commitment, passion and skill. Their philosophy of ‘Strength and Movement’ underpins everything they do and is still as strong today as it was then. They entered their first British Hairdressing Awards and this opened the industries eyes to what a force to be reckoned with the RUSH Hair team would be. They won numerous awards from 2001 onwards within the British Hairdressing Awards, British Hairdressing Business Awards, Fellowship Awards and many more. As the opportunities came flooding in, the team grew with the introduction of International Colour Director, Chris Williams and Education Director, Paola Pinto. From education, shows, demonstrations and seminars, they were in high demand, travelling domestically and internationally teaching the RUSH Way across the globe. In 2009 RUSH Live was born - A showcase for their artistic talents, launching their collections and presenting their creativity and skill to the audience. It was a chance to share the RUSH Way with the world, with all proceeds going to their chosen charity – Great Ormond Street Hospital. The show has achieved great

success and is growing each year, with the total donated reaching in excess of £150,000. In 2010, business was booming, and the brand was all set to meet their target of 50 salons by 2012 – an incredible achievement, especially in this recession. In the space of a 12-month period, the group opened 12 new salons across the South East, including the unveiling of their flagship salon The House of Rush, in London’s Piccadilly. In the past seven years, the brand has gone from strength to strength, with the salons now opening salons in the South West and the North of England. Andy and Stell have guided the 90 strong salon group to become one of the most respected names in hairdressing. Their role is to manage the growth of the company, constantly looking for opportunities and to develop the business ensuring the needs of the team at Rush – franchisees, stylists, art team members, assistants, front of house, and head office staff and most importantly the needs of their clients are met and exceeded on all levels. With a team of 1,100 servicing over 13,000 clients each month it is a tremendous task, but one that they undertake with relish. This year, Andy and Stell have achieved something they have always dreamt of. From day one education has underpinned the RUSH Way and in October 2017, they opened a RUSH Academy in the heart of London’s Covent Garden. The Academy is a unique building in itself, looking more like an art gallery with contemporary art from Matt Small and street artist Paul Insect gracing the exposed brick walls. Lighting and furnishings from British designer Tom Dixon, including a spectacular chandelier, fuses with ducting, crumbling plasterwork, exposed brickwork and awe inspiring bespoke metal staircase and gates. The classrooms are modern and functional, using utilitarian furnishings and state of the art equipment. The RUSH Academy will provide hairdressers from all over the world the opportunity to experience what makes RUSH Hair’s approach to training and education so special. The RUSH Academy team will share the RUSH philosophy of ‘Strength and Movement’ whilst hosting an array of education courses and seminars for all levels of hairdressing. The team will also provide bespoke seminars for salon groups or international attendees, sharing their techniques and skills in this inspiring and motivating building. The new RUSH Academy heralds a new chapter in RUSH Hair’s 25-year history. Courses have already proved popular from students both from the UK and overseas with hairdressers looking to be inspired to learn the RUSH Way.

Creativity – It’s in our DNA. | 57

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A C A DE M Y | 59

Carl’s Column Say Hello to Autumn’s Highlights

Celebrity hairdresser Carl Bembridge shares simple ways to take it back to basics when it comes to hairstyling this autumn, ensuring your hair is in tip-top condition at all times.


t literally feels like yesterday that we were all talking holidays and drinking rosé in the garden, but like it or not, those nights are drawing in and the seasons are changing fast! Although I do enjoy the summer months, there is always something comforting about autumn. There is that sense of change in the air, which I love. There is always the promise of something new and exciting just around the corner.

Loose waves also look to be big news this season - it’s the perfect way to glam up your look, taking you from office to party with minimum effort. Make sure you use a heat protector before curling in soft waves either all over your head or just around your face. Mixing up the direction of the curl gives a nice, natural and slightly more textured look too. There was a nod to the nineties on the Alexander Wang catwalk too with models sporting mousse-scrunched waves.

And so it is with hair and fashion trends. I love taking inspiration from the shows and keeping an eye on what is happening in Hollywood, as well as on the small screen, for style inspiration for the coming season. I absolutely love keeping up to date with trends and who is doing what - I can’t resist a bit of red-carpet inspiration too.

There is a real feel of glamour in the air this autumn too - we’re all clearly getting ready for party season - with big, bouncy hair that is full of volume. This is a look that requires more effort and requires a blow-dry teamed with volumising products to help hair look its biggest and best. It’s a super-glam look, which is always good.

For guys, looking ahead to this season also means looking back a few decades. The longer, casual styles of the 1970s were spotted on the runways of Prada and Alexander McQueen. The style could, of course, also have been inspired by the popularity of shows such as Game of Thrones, making star Kit Harington’s flowing locks a bit of a style inspiration for more than just TV’s fantasy fans.

Braids are still around, with longer hair being plaited then twisted around a bun at the back of the head. Keeping the mood romantic, long, relaxed hair twists are also making an appearance.

Short crops and military-style looks are still popular, although there is an edgier feel to things rather than super-sleek tailored looks. Cropped, textured styles help to give a more angular look to faces, while textured crops are also good for those with a receding hairline as the finish is much softer, drawing attention away from hairline itself. Certain styles for women also take inspiration from the past, with 60s inspiration and sleek ponytails making an appearance. Volume and big hair in the shape of a modern beehive was seen on the Chanel catwalk, while low, nape-of-the-neck super-shiny ponytails were seen on the Loewe catwalk - it’s a look Kim Kardashian has worn beautifully over the years that looks set to get you noticed again this season.

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Fringes are back with a bang. Since Bella Hadid was spotted sporting a faux fringe earlier this year, the trend has caught on with full, pretty fringes making an appearance on the Giorgio Armani catwalk where they were teamed with long, straight, shiny locks. Fellow fringe wearers include model Emily Ratajkowski, who sported a blunt fringe early this year at the Cannes Film Festival, while Georgia May Jagger’s longer, looser fringe suits her casual, relaxed vibe perfectly. If you’re thinking about fringe benefits, speak to your stylist about what would best suit your face shape, with everything from solid, blunt cuts to wispy and curtained fringes, there is something there to suit most face shapes. Side-swept fringes will work well with both long and shorter cuts and are flattering on more rounded faces, while heart-shaped faces suit something a little lighter, wispier and layered. Square-shaped faces suit longer fringes that grace the brows, drawing attention

to the eyes, while oval faces can get away with blunt cuts most easily, creating a dramatic, statement look. They key here is keeping your hair in tiptop condition. Choose a shampoo and conditioner suited to your hair type, and use products for colour-treated hair if you do have tints or highlights - it really will help your colour last longer and look better. Invest time in a weekly deep conditioning treatment too, which all hair types will benefit from particularly chemically treated hair that can be more prone to dryness. Shine serums are great for finishing off sleek, satiny looks simply slick a small amount of gloss or serum over your hair after blow-drying to add shine, with the extra benefits of keeping flyaways in place. Staying with a touch of glamour, hair accessories were big news at this season’s fashion shows from jewelled hair bands to bows, big and small. Side partings also made an appearance and look set to be a popular trend. Both sleek Missoni - and slightly grungier - Louis Vuitton - were spotted on catwalks, defined partings were the thing here regardless of chic or casual, some with braids to one side, others with noticeable hair grips on one side only. As ever, there is plenty of scope for attitude, with textured nods to punk rock style of old at Marni with bold colour featuring at Marc Jacobs, while dip-dyed ends - bold colours though, no rose golds this time - are a way of testing the hair-colour waters. Whatever look you choose, this season is all about making it yours and creating your own personal style; it’s a sure-fire way to ooze confidence throughout the season.

Invest time in a weekly deep conditioning treatment too, which all hair types will benefit from - particularly chemically treated hair that can be more prone to dryness.

Frontline Web Design

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Websites from £199 We work with barbers, hair salons and beauty salons across the UK. Whatever your websites needs, get in touch now to see how we can help make your business more profitable.

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07717 278872 | 61


Dr Nestor Demosthenous Age? It’s just a number

There are aspects of the ageing process that might take you by surprise, but award-winning aesthetic practitioner Dr Nestor Demosthenous explains the unexpected and what to do about it Aesthetics is a fascinating subject, and I love nothing more than to dispel any rumours or inaccuracies that surround treatments. I also love being able to show patients what can be done to help them look the best they can for their age or to address an issue that may have troubled them for years. There are a number of small procedures that carry huge benefits – it is just a case of knowing what is available.

Words: Dr Nestor

When it comes to ageing, we all know it is going to happen. A few extra lines around the eyes are to be expected, but what about those nasolabial folds, bunny lines, and hollows under the eyes? There are certain aspects to ageing that might come as a surprise, but there are steps that can be taken to minimise the impact. And for those who perhaps feel their profile isn’t quite right, something as straightforward as the application of dermal filler is one of those small changes that has a huge impact. Drooping eyebrows As our bodies age, we lose fatty tissue in key areas, including the forehead and under the eyebrows. As the eyebrows are the frames of the face and set the tone for your facial structure, if your forehead and eyebrows begin to droop, your whole face bears the brunt. As we age, we begin to lose the sheet of fat that sits behind the skin in these areas, which is when the ageing process becomes more obvious. As we lose this fat, the ends of our eyebrows fall and begin to lose their height, giving the appearance of pulling the face down. However, by using fillers, this lost sheet-like tissue can be restored, which helps to raise the eyebrows to their former position, opening the eyes and restoring a more awake, refined and youthful appearance. Bunny Lines Bunny lines are those small, sometimes diagonal, wrinkles on both sides of the nose, right below the bridge. Typically caused by repeated facial movements in that same area – so if you wrinkle your nose a lot, or your nasal muscles are particularly strong when you laugh, you may be more prone to developing bunny lines. So how do we get rid of these anything-

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but-cute crinkles? Aesthetic procedures can help and there are options depending on how problematic your bunny lines are. If the lines are caused by repetitive muscle activity, a practitioner can relax those muscles, so they can’t continue to function in the same way, which lessens the movement that results in the wrinkles.

Nasolabial & marionette Lines Marionette lines are the next level on from common laughter lines; deeper-set and usually longer in length, they can give the face a serious and sad look. Nasolabial lines are deep lines down either side of the mouth, running from the cheeks downwards. If they begin to

extend from the corner of the mouth to the chin, then they become what is known as marionette lines, which can dramatically age a face. These kinds of lines are very much a result of facial folding and volume loss higher up the face should be treated with adding volume in key areas of loss with fillers. There are a variety of fillers available that offer different levels of firmness or flexibility, depending on the area of the face and what is required. There are lots of options when it comes to lifting the tissue around marionette lines, as well as smoothing out marionette lines directly. The results should be noticeable immediately, lasting 12-18 months before a second treatment is required. Tear Trough Deformities Many patients believe that they have deep under-eye bags when they come in to see me and are shocked to hear they actually have what’s known as a ‘tear trough deformity’. This is a fold that extends from the inner eye corner, running down and outwards, and creating a hollow, often accentuated by a dark shadow. The darkness is often a result of the thinning skin of the lower eyelid, allowing blood vessels and muscle colour to shine through. Tear trough deformities tend to

make you look older and more tired than you really are, as they cause the eye to look sunken.

of volume and create a smooth contour, as well as diminishing those dark eye circles to create a brighter, more youthful effect.

Celebrities including Chanel muse Kristen Stewart and actress Jennifer Aniston are among those who suffer with tear trough deformities, resulting in a hollowed effect to the eye area, which leaves the eyes looking tired and dark.

Chin re-shaping

Tear trough deformities are caused by issues with the ligament structures under the lower eyelid, meaning that they can occur even in very young people. Regardless of how many hours sleep you get each night, age exacerbates the appearance of these troughs, as progressive soft tissue and bone loss in the area can cause the tear trough to appear even deeper. Although tear troughs can be corrected surgically, non-invasive treatments are really enjoying a surge in popularity because they are quicker and less invasive than surgery. Hyaluronic acid fillers can be injected into the area to restore that loss

Aside from the ageing process, there are a number of treatments that can improve the way we feel about ourselves. There are a great number of people who are simply unhappy with some aspect of their profile. Chin shape can be a cause of concern to many, either as a result of trauma or genetics. Dermal fillers can be used to reshape the contours of the chin to subtly alter the shape and achieve a beautiful profile. Subtle chin and jawline augmentation is a straightforward procedure, but one that has a huge impact on how someone feels about themselves. In all cases, understanding facial proportions and how our faces age is the key to offering the most appropriate treatment and achieving wonderfully natural results every time. To find out more from Dr Nestor, visit | 63


Salon Bon Bon “Is there a word for being more fabulous than fabulous? Yes there is, well 3 to be exact Salon Bon Bon!”

The reviews on the recently opened Salon Bon Bon speak for themselves. A chic and gorgeous salon that promises its clientele effortless style without the rush.

Bringing over 25 years of experience at the pinnacle of the global hairdressing industry, owner Sue Lever decided to give up the globetrotting life with the likes of Wella Professional and Fudge Professional to settle down in Hitchin. Salon Bon Bon is her first standalone salon, but with such a wealth of experience behind her, it’s no surprise that it has been an instant hit. Away from the hustle and bustle of London, it’s an oasis for customers to take advantage of Sue’s expert knowledge. The philosophy behind the salon is the belief that a client’s personality is at the core of everything they do. Expect an in-depth analysis and consultation before a bespoke hairdressing experience, with expert colouring embracing your individuality.

27 Churchyard,Hitchin, SG5 1HP

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Angela Mason Hair Extentsions Manchester based hair specialist, Angela Mason, is set to open a new salon in West Didsbury this November – Angela Mason Hair Extensions. The salon will offer a vast range of hair and beauty services catering to all hair extension requests and requirements. The Burton Road salon is set across two beautifully styled floors and the unique plethora of hairdressing services include full, half, and quarter head hair extension application, styling, colouring, removal, refitting, treating, maintenance, clip-in extensions, masterclasses, and blow-drying.

Angela Mason Hair Extensions will stock the highest quality human hair, available in three tiered offerings – Gold, Platinum, and Diamond – as well as clip-in pieces. All air is Remy and double drawn, for volume and re-usable lasting manageability.

Trained technician Angela specialises in the application of heat-free individual hair extensions, a technique she feels is important to maintain the health of the natural hair, and will be sharing her knowledge with students in her AMAcademy. Following six years of experience in the industry, Angela has built a loyal client base from all over the country and early next year will opened her doors to teach her trade in the salon’s academy division.

218 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2LW | 65

Clip ‘N’ Glam – The Ultimate Get Up And Go! Dream Girl Clip ‘N’ Go Hair Extensions Are Available From – From £42 For most women the dream is to be able to roll out of bed and look gorgeous! Hair extensions are the perfect way to achieve this - feel confident in your aesthetic, and become your own Dream Girl! As a working woman it can be difficult to have time to be successful, and look great! A recent poll by the Daily Mail found that six out of 10 of us wake up grumpy, and in a poll of 2, 000 women completed by TODAY and AOL they found that 78% spent on average 55 minutes getting ready, as “it made them feel better about themselves”. The correlation between feeling great, looking great versus time spent is something that is at the forefront of many of our morning routines. It’s working a balance of looking good, and spending that extra time in bed or eating breakfast. Dream Girl know how important glam time is, and because of this have formulated Clip ‘N’ Go hair extensions! Dream Girl hair extensions are all about making fantasy reality, so add that desired volume and drama to your hair without missing out on beauty sleep with Dream Girl’s Clip ‘N’ Go extensions! The ultimate solution to instantly transform your hair, and your mornings! Whether you’re looking to add additional volume, longer locks, or a just touch of colour, get instant natural looking results with Dream Girl’s premium line of human and synthetic clip on hair extensions. Available in three different grades, which include Remi, European and Synthetic, all offer endless styling options with immediate results. The Dream Girl Clip ‘N’ Go range is perfect for experimenting with colour, they’re available in over 80 colours! Save yourself the hassle of colouring and chemically processing hair by switching to Dream Girl’s versatile range of clip ons. Dream Girl Clip ‘N’ Go are pre-cut hair extensions with clips attached on the wefts. Convenient and easy to apply, just simply clip and slay your day!

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RefleXion By Marilyn Biache HD

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Showc ase | 69

nocturne shoot Hair: Leighanne Regan

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Chris Southern | 71

A fro punk Hair & Make-Up: Lidia Patrizia Photography: Kim Lang Model: Rudy Monroe

Styling: Bongeka Dube

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Hello Henna Has Arrived! Louise Bannigan, Founder of Epibrow International & Winner 2017 of Best Training Academy (SHABA), does it again by launching 'The Must Have' new brow course.

As with any of Epibrow’s new courses there is always a high demand from forward thinking therapists wanting to update their skills by learning the latest ‘Must Have’ treatments, and Hello Henna is no exception. Demand for this course has blown us away! So what is the difference with Henna ? It is longlasting - with the correct aftercare it can last up to 6/7 weeks! Natural Product Led Free and no need for Peroxide - Gentle on The Skin. Bespoke colour to your client - comes in 9 colours Amazing for existing SPMU or Brow Artists to offer - gives you the opportunity to stand out in the Brow World.


Brows are our PASSION here at Epibrow and we know a good treatment when we see one, which is why we are super excited to be launching this sexy course. Give your clients the brows they deserve - long lasting colour and shape. We have a fabulous, fully branded range of OUR OWN products that go with this - all exclusive to Epibrow.

Don’t delay, call today! Training is available at our Glasgow, Yorkshire & London Academies.

To book please call: 0333 370 3215 or email: | 73

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TRENDY Mickael Ribeiro Artistic Direction: Mickael Ribeiro & Pascal Latil Hair: Mickael Ribeiro

Photography: Fabrice Meuwissen Make-Up: Laurie Hadji

Model: Lise, Angelique, Marjorie, Mayelis, Carla Stylism: Veronique Suchet

Retouch: Elena Misjuk & Pascal Latil | 75

Editor’s Comment We know many barbers get excited when American Crew release new products so this month will be no different. Their new Tech Series offers something completely different to their previous offerings so it’s definitely worth a try. Meanwhile, it’s not hard to notice that many young barbers like their tattoos these days, so new male grooming brand Skull & Bone have the lotion you’ve been looking for to keep your art looking fresh.

Mister Pompadour Natural Beeswax Paste A thicker hair styling paste that’s infused with purified beeswax and lanolin wax to provide a flexible high hold and natural matte finish that keeps your hairstyle looking sharp all day long.  Ideal for all hair lengths, types, and styles - from short to long, thin to thick, and messy to combed.   $19.50 –

Skull & Bone Tattoo Body Lotion Specially formulated to naturally enhance your tattoo’s ink with the use of natural oils and vitamins. When applied the oils and vitamins soak deep into the skin and draw out the original colour of the ink. As an added benefit the lotion provides long lasting nourishment and keeps your skin hydrated all day without the need to reapply. £9.99 -

Layrite Daily Shampoo Designed to leave your hair clean, soft, and ready to style without stripping away any of its natural moisture. It creates a rich lather which is packed with eucalyptus and hemp oils to dissolve dirt and styling products that can weigh your hair down. Leaves protective natural oils behind that will help soothe dry, itchy scalps and its awakening fragrance will leave you feeling fresh and alert. $18 –

American Crew Tech Series The latest range from American Crew introduces three new products, a Texture Foam, Control Foam, and Boost Spray. The latter prepares the hair for styling, adding volume while refreshing the hair and absorbing excess oil. Then depending on the level of hold and shine you are after, the Texture and Control foams offer truly next generation style. £12.90 –


Hanz De Fuko Natural Shampoo and Natural Conditioner Everything you need for healthy hair comes in this kit from Hanz De Fuko, with both their Natural Shampoo and Conditioner. With continued usage hair will become noticeably thicker, stronger, and more manageable. £30.99 –

The Bluebeards Revenge Sea Salt Spray Launching at this year’s Salon International trade show, it’s specially designed with sea salt minerals to give men a natural look that boasts all of the volume, texture, and wave seen in hair of coastline junkies the world over. Featuring the brand’s signature fragrance, it can be reworked throughout the day. £9.99 –

Baxter of California Clay Effect Style Spray A lightweight hair spray featuring castor and jojoba oil that provides vitamin and nutrients for thinning hair, while still giving you strong hold and a texture-rich finish. Easy to apply and so versatile it can be used in all stages of the grooming routine. £27 –

Clubman Pinaud Shave Talc A barbershop classic since 1810. Clubman Pinaud Shave Talc is made from the finest talc which helps to dim face shine as well as hide nicks and blemishes. Its neutral/natural tint will not show on the face. For use either pre or post shave. £5 -

male groomingENVY | 77

Sir Mo farah

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Nike x Porters At the IAAF World Championships London 2017


n August, the greatest athletes in the world descended on the greatest city in the world to showcase their superhuman physical abilities.

Records were broken, legends were made. From Justin Gatlin defeating Usain Bolt in the Jamaican hero’s last 100m sprint, to Sir Mo Farah bringing home the gold in the 10,000m, it was a World Championships to remember. Behind the scenes, away from the prying eyes of the global media, sportswear giants Nike were treating their athletes to the very best that Britain has to offer. In a top secret location in London, the Nike sponsored sportsmen and women had access to a private house containing everything they’d need to ensure they were in tiptop shape mentally and physically ahead of the competition. A personal tailor, bar, physio, lounge area, and, to keep their hair pristine, a barber. Running the Nike House Barber Shop for two weeks throughout the Championships were former BarberNV Barbershop of the Month, and prestigious London institution, Porters. Two Porters barbers, including owner Bora Esen, were on hand throughout

the fortnight to take care of the steady stream of top class athletes keen to avail themselves of Porters’ renowned services. With millions watching around the world on television, looking good was of prime consideration for Nike’s team and there was a queue of well-known faces in Bora’s chair. The most successful British track athlete in modern Olympic Games history, Sir Mo Farah, was among those to get involved, entrusting his iconic facial hair to Bora’s steady hand. Growing up just a few miles from the London Stadium where the Championship took place, it was a special occasion for Sir Mo and the Porters team ensured he looked fit for it. Other clients over the course of the competition included American track star Devon Allen, Jamaican hurdler Omar McLeod, and British middle-distance runner Kyle Langford. It was an incredible experience for the Porters barbers who rubbed shoulders with some of the most legendary figures in athletics, and showed the trust placed in them by Nike to look after their sportsmen. The Porters reputation far exceeds their hometown. | 79

FAMILY MATTERS! How to be successful and happy while running a business with your spouse by Iain Bruce-Low

More than most industries, the hair and beauty business is run by a large percentage of couples and families. This can work well and be a recipe for success or it can be a complete disaster for both business and relationship. The intensity of the relationship can lead to problems, and quite quickly it will become clear that there needs to be an understanding of balance to succeed. Setting up our salon was a natural progression. Meeting over 11 years ago when I joined the salon that Annmarie worked in, our relationship grew quickly over the years and we understood each other’s strengths and weaknesses. We then managed that salon for a short time learning not only management skills but also our separate roles in day to day salon life. Eventually we took the plunge to open our own salon. This was scary but by this stage between us we had three young children and marriage was on the cards, however opening a salon was up there with the biggest commitments of any relationship. Problems occurred in the beginning. With a baby only months old it was hard and naturally the two lives were becoming blurred. New roles were needed and we had to be able to transition from one role to another, often several times a day, for the sake of staff, clients, family, and ourselves. Annmarie was now fully in charge of finance and business matters, with myself leading the creative and operations side of the salon.

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Both us and our team were now clearer what was driving the salon. Making sure personal matters don’t affect the running of the business and vice versa, we planned that once a week after dropping the kids off at school we would have a breakfast business meeting to discuss all things salon related. Other rules enforced were no work talk after 8pm and certainly no money chat; this was family time only if there was a salon issue to be discussed it would be addressed the very next day in salon, Sundays are also ‘no salon chat’ days. A big disadvantage is wanting to have a family holiday but having both of us out of the shop can put pressure on the salon. However, a massive focus for us is that all team members understand that working with us you become part of the family and we have been lucky to have that. There were always three choices for us: no holidays, close the shop, or put trust in the team. Trust is a massive hurdle to overcome when running any business but a rewarding tool to have. Six years on and after lots of mistakes, fall outs, and several conversations about throwing the towel in but realising the children are growing fast, family and life becoming slightly easier and the success of the business was also advancing. We began to see our partnership was working for us and not against us, after all we only ever knew each other from working together. Our separate roles are now cemented and Annmarie, with a great business mind, pushed the salon to expand to bigger premises and take on more staff while

developing our BrucelowHair brand, allowing me to contribute into the industry through education, awards, photoshoots, and brand artistic teams whilst driving our team upwards towards their dreams and goals. The key advice I’d give to anyone running a business with your spouse or considering it is ‘put love first’. Without it who do you share the business success with? And follow your dreams, as long as your loved one follows that same dream and goal. I understand that every day/month/year is difficult when running a business but having my best friend with me makes things so much easier. Do what you love with who you love and you’ll always have success on your side!


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SalonNV Issue 16  
SalonNV Issue 16