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Issue 14

£5 | €6.50

I n s p i r i ng U K & I r e l a n d s a l o n s uc c e s s

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Aesthetics | Beauty | Hairdressing | Nails | Tanning www.SalonNV.co.uk | 1


2 | SalonNV Magazine


Welcome I

t’s festival season and we are packed full of tips and tricks to maximise your salon revenue and make the most of this time of year. So if you aren’t getting along to enjoy the music, you’ll still enjoy the profit! Our columnist and celebrity hairdresser Carl Bembridge is advocating grabbing a funky wig, after all if you can’t have neon hair at a music festival then when can you?! Our festival style feature showcases how to do some of the hottest looks and the products you need to be retailing alongside them. Meanwhile Erin Gavin has been living it up at Coachella – lucky for some, eh? She fills us in with what’s happening across the pond, making us all envious as always. We’ve been kept busy with events, particularly the L’Oreal Colour Trophy which we were delighted to see was won by former Salon of the Month Linton & Mac. The Aberdeen based team have been killing it lately and this was well deserved. Our roving reporter Josie Smith attended the event in Battersea and was also kept busy testing out one of Fudge’s latest treatments aimed at reinvigorating damaged hair.

If you’re looking for salon inspiration of your own you’ll love our look into London based Not Another Salon who are reinventing what a salon can be and Urban Hair who are proving that location is no barrier to success if you have heart and talent. The big interview is one I was especially excited about – the amazingly skilled Tony Le-Britton, who was responsible for last issue’s front cover, spoke to us about his career and inspiration. The first photographer to be interviewed in our magazine due to his immense contribution to the industry. He’s got a larger than life story to tell and we’re delighted he’s as passionate about SalonNV as we are. We need to thank Glasgow based salon owner Craig Andrew for speaking to us about his battles with anxiety and we hope his brave words will inspire others fighting mental illness to seek the help they need. Opening up is hard but the only way to move forward. There’s loads more in store for you in the issue ahead, but now we’re off to enjoy the TRNSMT music festival as a team – have a great summer!

Joanne X

Joanne Reid | Editor-In-Chief

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www.salonnv.co.uk Inspiring UK & Ireland salon success Founder & Editor-in-chief Joanne Reid | Sub Editor Simon Ritchie | Head Designer Ross Stewart | Sales & Marketing Support Connie Neil Cover Image: Medusa. Hair: Robert Kirby using ID Haircare, Photography: Benjamin Johnson, Make-up: Daiva Kazlauskaite, Styling: Elisa Heinesen Thanks Mr Haircare - Emil McMahon, CocorocoPR, Alison Jameson Consultants, Essence PR, Seven Publicity, Vivid PR, LWPR, B TheAgency, Su-pr, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, National Hairdressers Federation, Hairdressing Council, Takara Belmont, Urban Hair and Beauty, Not Another Salon, Craig Andrew, Carl Bembridge, Charlie Taylor, Dean Jones, Dr Nestor, Erin Gavin, Blue Tit, Linton & Mac, Josie Smith, Katie Margereson, Tony Le-Britton Published by MediaNV Ltd, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 2125 525 | Web www.SalonNV.co.uk Copyright All work in this publication is copyright SalonNV Magazine and MediaNV Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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HAIR SHAPER THE ORIGINAL. 25 YEARS AND STILL GOING STRONG

YANNY TOKYO, GERMAN-BORN, LONDON-BASED MODEL TURNED ORGANIC FARMER AND ARTIST.

Find your stockist At:Fudgeprofessional.com Hair by London School of Barbering Art Team | londonschoolbarbering.com 4 | SalonNV Magazine

Fudgehair


News

Columnists

NEWS

06

34

CARL BEMBRIDGE

industry bodies

10

38

ERIN GAVIN

HAIR EXPO AUSTRALIA

32

35

kay corbett

L’Oreal Colour Trophy

52

45

EMIL MCMAHON

shaba 2017

62

48

DR NESTOR

Products Editor’s choice

22

hair

24

SKIN & MAKE-UP

26

BODY, TANNING & WAXING

27

FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT

28

Education

Features 19

tony LE-BRITTON

36 FESTIVAL GLAM 40 URBAN HAIR & BEAUTY 48 FUDGE: TIME MACHINE 64 NOT ANOTHER SALON

dean jones

44

66 CHARLIE TAYLOR

mental health

50

74 MALE GROOMING

going green

51

76 POPE THE BARBER

Inspiring UK & Ireland salon success

Contents Issue 14

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iSalon announce rebrand After nationwide feedback, iSalon have successfully completed their brand makeover, comprising of a new website, brand look, tailored packages, and updated features.

Blue Tit has a field day Blue Tit, the boutique, London-based salon group, hosted a pop-up salon at the Field Day Festival 2017 this month. Taking residence at the festival for a second year running, the awardwinning salon group proved to be a huge hit with festival goers, who were given the chance to try out festivalworthy styles, including braids, buns and glitter. This year, Blue Tit stylists were on hand to offer a menu of festival-worthy styles, especially curated for Field Day 2017. The most sought after services at the pop-up salon were braids and topknots adorned with glitter, and many of the men opted for ‘Surf Culture’ styles with lots of volume and texture.

Yes We Cannes Award winning salon group, Francesco Group, has had a hectic, exciting month to say the least, as some of their team travelled to the Cannes Film Festival for the 19th - 21st of May, to style hair for various designers coming from all ends of the Earth. Consisting of Paul Corbett, Galina Johnson and Phil Underhill, the team began the first day styling Italian Magazine Editor Giulia Deamina’s hair, before she headed to the red carpet to watch Palme d’Or nominated film, Jupiter’s Moon. The next day was packed for the team as they worked tirelessly styling 40 models for seven designers, quickly altering looks in between shows. The team styled the models hair for them before heading to the Global Short Film Awards, an exciting, exclusive event held at the recognisable Intercontinental Carlton Hotel where designers showcased their latest designs on the catwalk. These included Egypt’s Hany El Behairy and the USA’s DiDomenico Designs, finishing with a finale where designer and event founder Andres Aquino, famous for pushing boundaries with his shows and innovative designs, showcasing his latest unique creations.

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Updated features include 24/7 online bookings to improve appointment book management, tighter stock control, strengthened client record management, comprehensive reporting tools and functionality to give multiple salon owners control from one central location. For more than two decades iSalon has been committed to providing the most powerful salon software to successful hair, beauty, and spa business owners. iSalon can be found in nearly 2,000 salons in more than 10 countries and engages with over 8.5 million customers globally.

Evie Steps up and Shines The Fellowship’s President’s Night on Monday 8 May provided the setting for 18-year-old Evie Scrowston from Hays Salon in Hull, to be crowned winner of 2017’s Step Up & Shine. In association with the NHF and the Fellowship, ‘Step Up & Shine’ was launched in honour of industry legend, Christopher Man, to nurture one stylist with a year-long £2,500 educational programme. Step Up & Shine is in its fourth successful year with renowned hairdressing educator,

Debbie G leading the way as project leader. Debbie will provide constant support to Evie ensuring the Step Up & Shine mentoring enhances and develops her career. Entrants had to submit a 60 second video to Instagram and explain why they would be the perfect candidate to win the incredible scholarship. Evie was selected for her desire and passion to learn and improve her skills.

Bruce-Low hair aid THC The staff and clients at Bruce-Low Hair in Oban have raised over £1,200 for The Hairdressers’ Charity following an event in the salon on Friday 30th June.

£800 with suppliers giving some incredible gifts for the lucky winners. Yoi Scissors also did a live auction on Facebook for a pair of scissors which raised £165.

All takings from the day, including tips, were donated while a lucky dip also gave customers the chance to win anything from money off their next appointments to a range of products. A raffle also raised more than

The final total for the evening was £1,232, however since the event more donations have come in and the figure is set to rise considerably. Well done to everyone at Bruce-Low Hair.


Francesco Group Awards night

The International Convention Centre, in the centre of Birmingham, was home to this years Francesco Group Awards where all 41 of the Francesco Group salons and academies gathered in anticipation for the announcement of this years Business and Photographic Award Winners. The event began with a spectacular opening presentation from the Francesco Group Creative Team, showcasing looks from their forthcoming collection, Bohemian, prior to the Chairman Peter Dellicompagni and Director of Hairdressing, Anya Dellicompagni stepping onto the stage to thank the Creative Team, models, makeup artists and the rest of the team who put the presentation together. Then it was on to the main event, with a plethora of awards given out in business, long service, and photography categories to some of the finest staff members in the Francesco Group. Congratulations to all the winners.

Charlie Taylor mentors youth Award-winning hair and beauty salon owner Charlie Taylor is celebrating 30 years in business this year by taking a budding young entrepreneur under her wing for the year. Underlining her commitment to the future of local and national enterprise, Charlie, owner of leading salons in Perth and Dundee, is putting her money where her mouth is by acting as personal business mentor to Jade Beatson, owner of up-and-coming online fashion boutique Little-lies.com. Jade, 27 came to Charlie’s attention early in 2017 when she dropped by to see Charlie’s daughter, Sasha, who was on X-Factor, about collaborating on some of Sasha’s prolific and popular social media channels. Her business was starting to really take off just 18 months after she started running the site from the bedroom of her home in Fife. Charlie was so

impressed that she immediately offered to do what she could to help her achieve her potential. Since then, the two have met regularly, with Charlie sharing her extensive contacts in the local and wider Scottish world of fashion and beauty, and providing advice on running a business, taking on employees and dealing with finances. Most recently, they collaborated on a video shoot to produce a stylishly cool 60-second promo for Littlelies which will be posted to YouTube and disseminated via Instagram, Facebook and other social media. The next step is a showcase event to be held in Charlie’s Dundee salon, bringing together some of the coolest young talent and brands to come along and display their wares.

Essex Salon Awards launched Marketing firm KJME have announced the launch of a new Essex Salon Awards, recognising the endeavours of the best performing salons, hairdressers and barbers in Essex. The much-anticipated Essex Salon Awards, will be hosted at the Orsett Hall in Essex, on the 5th November 2017. The event aims to shine the spotlight on those who deliver exceptional quality and excellence in service.With more than 1600 hair salons, barbers and freelance hairdressers based in the county alone, the awards will provide the perfect platform to celebrate and acknowledge the success of some of the most creative, dynamic and innovative talents within the hair industry. The Essex Salon Awards will be judged by an array of admired industry leaders and several top industry brands are already supporting the event including Alan Howard and Fudge Professional.

Fellowship members unite Friends of the Fellowship, salons from around the country, trade press members, and supporters for those on the line-up came together at Wella World Studios for a fantastic Members’ Night, hosted by President Karine Jackson. Forming the line-up this time was Academy Salons, Lewis Moore Salons, Elizabeth & Giovanni’s, Hairven, Andrew Smith Salon, Sarai Hair & Beauty, Spargo Hairdressing, The Salon, East Durham College, The Annex, and the HOB Academy Varda team.

Past F.A.M.E. Team members Jamie Benny from Rush and William Ackerley from Electric also took the stage, joined also by former Project X Team member Gareth Williams from Headmasters. The talented trio presented a look each and gave the audience their best advice for applying for Fellowship initiatives, urging anyone thinking about it to put themselves out there. There was also an appearance from special guest Mark Woolley who talked about his career and how he created Electric Hairdressing.

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Robert returns Robert Lobetta has been appointed Creative Visionary of Sebastian Professional. In his new role, Robert will oversee the brand’s creative vision and be responsible for seeking out and mentoring young hairdressing talents to collaborate with the brand. After a 10-year hiatus pursuing creative passions and sourcing inspiration, Robert Lobetta makes a return to the brand which he once led as Creative Director. Broadly recognized as a visionary and industry icon, he was originally sought out in the mid 1980s by the brand’s founders, John & Geri Cusenza. Lobetta dedicated over 20 years of his career to Sebastian Professional, leaving an indelible legacy that includes iconic products and imagery.

Sean Dawson represents Electric On May 8th, award-winning hairdresser Sean Dawson represented Electric Hair at the very first Beauty Gives Back event in Canada. Alongside being Electric’s representative, Dawson was also named as the company’s US Ambassador. Organised by John Paul Holt from AvantGarde Hair Studio, Beauty Gives Back is a non-profit charity devoted to uniting the professional beauty industry in the fight

against the global water crisis. Their goal is to raise funds for The Thirst Project, through educational events encouraging hairdressers to further their craft. This year they managed to raise $35,000. The founder of Electric Mark Wooley commented on this, expressing his content with Dawson promoting the brand overseas and how they hope to gather momentum as a brand name in the US and Canada.

Inanch goes The Premier Choice of Software back to CONEL Hairdressing Level 3 students taking part in an avant garde bridal themed hairdressing challenge at the Enfield Centre of the College of Haringey, Enfield and North East London (CONEL) were judged by former student and owner of Gold Class hair extensions brand Inanch Emir. Joining Inanch was her good friend Anne Veck on the judging panel as students each had four hours to create a style that reflected a mood board they had previously created to inspire their look. Mahrokh Bamshad took home first prize with a winter themed look which comprised a huge crimped, grey hairstyle, and grey dress accessorised with silver jewellery.

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This month sees the launch of Salon, Premier Software’s new flagship software system designed to specifically meet the demands of the hair and beauty industry. Salon contains a depth of functionality unrivalled by its competitors and allows salons to choose their own specification, either Salon Hair or Salon Beauty. Providing a complete business overview at the touch of a button, Salon helps to maximise profitability, manage day-to-day operations and highlight areas of growth. It is also easy to upgrade from Salon Hair to Salon Beauty. Leonie Wileman, chief operations officer at Premier Software, says: “Salons want and need a system that provides all the business heads they need to make running their business easier. “Salon by Premier Software does exactly that. Created as a direct response to client requests and industry trends, it supports both

the independent or large multi-group hair franchises, and beauty salons. “It is your personal assistant, marketing manager, social media guru, receptionist, accountant and business partner all rolled into one.” Salon’s key features include: social media integration, automated marketing, client cards, retail, loyalty schemes, scheduling and reports. It also fully integrates with Online by Premier Software (Online) - a completely customisable system which allows clients to book appointments and purchase gift vouchers around the clock. Premier has 23 years’ experience developing razor-sharp management solutions and proudly partner with the National Hairdresser Federation and BABTAC. For further information visit www.premiersoftware.co.uk


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Showc ase

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The Fellowship for British Hairdressing is an organisation dedicated to the sheer creative excellence of the hairdressing industry. The Fellowship calendar is packed full of education and the last few months have been no different. ClubStar Art Team applications 2018 Applications are now officially open for the Fellowship’s 2018 ClubStar Art Team. The first port of call for any young, passionate and aspiring hairdresser, the ClubStar Art Team is aimed at members aged 16-25 and is the perfect platform for the industry’s next generation to step up and start really experiencing the industry and expanding their skill set. To enter this six-person team, applicants must be a ClubStar member, and must complete the online application form available to download from the Fellowship’s website. In addition, they must also upload a short video to Instagram explaining why they should be one of next year’s ClubStar Art Team members. The deadline for entries is Friday 18 August 2017. Photo-Hair Workshop The Fellowship’s Photo Hair Workshop for this year was welcomed by the Bed Head Studio recently, with students spending two days with the award-winning Fellowship Ambassador Bruno Marc and expert photographer Kai Wan. Six students came together to spend day one developing their understanding of how to prepare for a photo-shoot, before styling their own model and shooting their hair look on day two. Bruno and Kai, no strangers to creating stunning photographic hair work, educated the students on how to turn their ideas into a reality. With the creativity flowing, the shoot produced six stunning commercial looks – keep your eyes peeled on the Fellowship Facebook page to see the final results! ClubStar Presents with D&J Ambrose Calling all ClubStar members and D&J Ambrose fans! The Fellowship are bringing you another ClubStar Presents event on July 24th, this time with the D&J Ambrose Artistic Team. Wella World Studio will be welcoming audience members for an evening of creative hairdressing, live model presentations, interactive discussions and a whole lot of inspiration! Expected to be an extremely popular event, book your tickets now to avoid disappointment. Call Tracey at the Fellowship on 01295 724579 or email tracey@fellowshiphair.com.

The Fellowship

Associate Register

Self-employment survey

Being launched on 3rd July, this new register is aimed at individuals that are intrinsically involved in the Hair and Barber industry, but who are not practicing hairdressers or barbers. This new initiative will enable all factions of the industry to join our membership going forward, and in doing so, help strengthen our cause for mandatory registration for the future.

Following the government’s commission of a ‘Review of Working Practices’, to investigate how self-employment works in practice, the NHF carried out a survey in response. The survey covered over 500 hair and beauty business owners, self-employed hairdressers, barbers and beauty therapists, including those working in salons or barbershops and mobile workers.

This is a key part of our future plans to further grow our membership, whilst giving us added clout when we speak with politicians about the industry.

The survey revealed that over half of the business owners employed their staff, saying that ‘having full control over their business’ was the most important reason for rejecting self-employment. For detail on all of the statistics revealed, visit: www.nhf.info/ nhf-self-employment-survey

Pop-Up Salon Event Held in ‘Not Another Salon’ in Shoreditch on the 22nd May, the Pop-up Event was a HUGE success! Great vibe and atmosphere, the venue was packed to capacity. The purpose was to gain new members to join our register. And they did… 45 of them! All of whom received their certificates on the evening, presented by salon owner, Sophia Hilton. Everyone agreed what a truly great night it was. Our sincere thanks to Penny Etheridge who was our Event Co-ordinator, and Sophia and Ross from the salon who all did an amazing job in pulling the whole evening together! I have previously mentioned the industry and customer/consumer surveys we have been undertaking these past three months. I hope to have a draft Executive Report (this will be a precis of the main survey results) on the 19th June. I am really excited about this and looking forward to seeing the results. Politicians have long said that we haven’t enough industry data to support our quest for mandatory registration…..well, we soon will have! In addition, to the industry data, we have also commissioned a customer survey which will tell us how the consumer feels about hairdressers and barbers being properly trained and qualified. The results of this should prove to be very interesting indeed! The survey results are being officially launched at The Palace of Westminster on the 19th July, following which, we will decide what is the most effective way to scale these results out to industry and to media etc, to really quicken and strengthen our voice to Government.

The Hairdressing Council

75th anniversary Business Awards You have until 28 July to enter the NHF’s Business Awards. What better way to showcase your salon business, while motivating, rewarding and inspiring your team? The winners will be revealed at our fabulous awards’ evening with Gary Hooker and Michael Young at The VOX Conference Centre, Resorts World, Birmingham on November 19th, 2017. For further information, visit: www.nhf.info/ nhfbusinessawards Incredibles An expert panel of judges came together to select talented finalists of the NHF’s hairdressing competition, the ‘Incredibles’. Visit www.nhf.info/incredibles for more information and to view the full list of finalists for each category. Britain’s Best Britain’s Best is back this year and is set to be better than ever. The NHF’s competition is being held on Sunday 19 November at The Vox Conference Centre in Birmingham. The categories (which include hair up and female fashion) have been created for hairdressers of all levels, from trainees and students, through to the fully trained and the long-standing professionals. The cost of entry will be £15 for students and trainees categories and £20 to enter the open for all categories. To enter, visit www.nhf.info/ britains-best

NHF

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PATIENCE Hair:

Paul Paterson, Ishi Salon

Make-up:

Erika Marie Ni Bhriain Photography: Richard Miles


Future Luxe


Future Luxe

Creative Director: Neil Smith Hair: Eufora Editorial Team 2016 Make-up: Roseanna Velin Photography: Dan Thomas


DISILLUSIONED

Hair: Colour Project 2017 Photography: Jack Eames Art Direction: Chris Williams & Tina Farey

Stylist: Bernard Connolly Make-up: Kerry Sadler

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Photography: Tony Le-Britton Hair: The Aenea Artistic Make-up: Paula Maxwell Stylist: Krishan Parmar

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TONY LE-BRITTON

Cover Star “Everyone thinks it was a wig,” Tony tells us when we try to get to the bottom of the image. “But it’s not. It’s hair. The stylist used clippers to create a bob with a deep wedge to the back. “I love movement in my shots, even if it’s just a couple of hairs moving. I got the model to step forward and the whole bob swung forward.” Such a simple action led to the creation of what Tony calls a “magical shot” which baffled many people, including us, who couldn’t understand how he had pulled it off. But that’s the genius of Tony and why he’s such an in-demand artist. To create a shot that will live long in the memory, Tony tells us it requires more than planning, it requires reaction. He says: “I try and plan as much as possible, but you have to stay open and see how the hair is moving on the day, how individual strands of hair are moving and allow the concept to evolve from there. You have to just be there and capture it at that split second. It’s important for the photographer to be immersed in the whole day. I’ll not just take the photos, it’s my responsibility to speak with every member of the team throughout the day about their individual jobs and make sure we surpass the client’s expectations.”

Relationships Tony’s warmth and easy-going manner means he’s more than happy to engage with everyone he comes across. That friendliness has helped his career flourish and he believes it’s vital for anyone in the industry to have that on top of their professional skills. “It’s all about building lasting relationships,” Tony explains. “I hold

a lot of my clients very dear to me, in fact I think of them as friends. You need to make sure that everyone, EVERY single member of the team has an incredible day. That they go away thinking ‘I’ve had a brilliant day’. Then on top of that when they are truly happy on every level.

Images are such a huge tool to use. They can elevate a brand very quickly

“If they’ve worked with photographers before and the images were amazing but they haven’t enjoyed the day as a whole, who are they going to choose? If it’s between you and the person they can have a great day with, they’ll choose the person that lets them have fun. “I’m so relaxed on my shoots it’s unbelievable. It’s the way it should be: no pretence.”

Shoots It’s a method that works for Tony and his significant success has seen him chosen to shoot covers for names as glamorous as Elle and Vogue, with one in particular catching our eye – Vogue Beauty in Thailand. By reimagining the use of a powder, he created a breath taking image that couldn’t have been replicated by anyone else. “I try to put a little twist on things, not to make it too obvious. That was a collection for Vogue on must-have beauty products. I thought ‘why shoot them as they are supposed to be used? Why not make it a striking image that stops people and then they read the information about the product.’”

Photography: Tony Le-Britton Make-up: Stephen Austin Crotty

I N S P I R I NG U K & I R E L A N D S A L O N S UC C E S S

ISSUE 13

£5 | €6.50

T

he feedback for the SalonNV issue 13 cover was remarkable. Shot by renowned hair, fashion, and beauty photographer Tony Le-Britton, there was no question in our minds that it was something special. An iconic shot from Mai Ha of Trevor Sorbie, British Hairdressing Awards collection, it has an ethereal look that instantly raises questions. Is it real? How did they do it? We caught up with Tony to discuss it and chat about his continuing success.

His creativity means he’s trusted by his clients to put his own stamp onto what they want, faith that not every photographer has earned. Tony says: “A lot of clients come to me with a very open brief. What I say is ‘tell me about you, what you want as an individual, tell me what you want these images to say about YOU or YOUR brand. Where are you now and how would you like these images to take you to the next level?’ “Images are such a huge tool to use. They can elevate a brand very quickly – one collection that becomes popular can lift a newcomer into a household name.”

Beauty While it’s Tony’s job to help turn brands into household names, he’s almost one himself after an eventful career that saw him modelling at 15

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AESTHETICS | BEAUTY | HAIRDRESSING | NAILS | TANNING

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before eventually turning his attention behind the camera where his true passion lies. Looking back to the start of his career he says: “I was constantly on photo shoots, watching photographers, how they set up their lighting, what worked and what didn’t work. I got a great understanding from that. “What inspired me to get into photography was one of Angelo Seminara’s collections. They had just opened a Trevor Sorbie Manchester salon and I used to take the long way home when everything was closed and sit outside the salon and look at the images wondering how they achieved that. It just had such a beauty about it that really captivated me so I thought ‘maybe I can do this’ and it snowballed from there. I’ve been very lucky.” Tony says that one of his main sources of inspiration is nature, but as we speak he describes how the curve of a blind he’s looking at has a sense of beauty that’s sparked his imagination. Truly he can find artistry in anything. “I always say is that a shot should always have some sort of beauty about it,” Tony says. “Something that makes you speechless or takes you a while to absorb. Whether it’s the make-up, the hair, the styling, the model… taking inspiration from nature, where everything is beautiful. It’s really important to try and bring nature and form to my work.”

Passion Proud of what he has achieved and working hard to add to it, Tony is a man in the prime of his career and enjoying what he does. So where do you go from there? Tony has enlisted the help of some talented individuals to help him do something unique. He tells us: “I love hair, hair is my thing. Most people say that I’m a frustrated hairdresser – I love to get my hands in there and I truly understand hair! My next thing is I’m going to be shooting my own hair collection. I’ve got some incredible people in the industry to teach me and I’m going to do the cutting and styling in my own collection. I’m at the place where I have the understanding and it will help me see things from a client’s point of view.” We can’t wait to see it.

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Photography: Tony Le-Britton Hair: Mai Ha @ Trevor Sorbie Make-up: Paula Maxwell Stylist: Natalie Armin


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Crazy Color Metallics Four exciting colours provide fashion-led high shine metallic hues for the year’s most talked about palette. Leave the bold pastel colours in the past, now it’s all about that shine! Sapphire, Rose Gold, Slate, and Ice Mauve are the hot new colours in this semi-permanent range. £3.99 – crazycolor.co.uk

P R O D U C T S

FRÉNÉSIES Cream Created for those wanting to prevent hair growth and avoid the painful and often uncomfortable task of hair removal, after just one treatment hair growth will be reduced on average by 70%. Additional cycles of the treatment will continue to weaken and eventually eliminate hair. £195 – frenesies.com

Salon Systems Summer Rocks

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Every year Elemis release a pink product to raise money for Breast Cancer Care, with £25,000 pledged to be donated from sales of their Pro-Collagen Marine Cream. That’s enough reason to buy it but if you need another it has a lightweight texture for flawless make-up application.

A new collection of eight GELLUX shades and eight PRO-Polish shades for summer inspired by looks straight off the SS17 catwalk. The eight chic shades are perfect for creating a stylish manicure or beautiful nail art. £4.95 + VAT – salonsystem.com

£99 – elemis.com

Aquis Hair Towel Providing first aid for hair, these hair towels are a fantastic retail opportunity for salons as the allow customers to take care of their hair at home with a salon quality drying that limits breakage, helps to prevent colour fade, fights frizz, and ensures blow dries last longer. £30 – aquishair.co.uk

Editor’s ChoiceENVY 22 | SalonNV Magazine


P R OD U C T S

Gold Class Soft Touch Italian Professional Blow Dry Brush Featuring a wooden handle with a rubberised coating for ultimate comfort and easy gripping. The firm, heat-resistant boar bristles smooth even the thickest of hair as they are different heights allowing an easy glide over hair extension bonds. Gives total control while styling. £30 – inanch.com

MrBlancTeeth Bamboo Charcoal Whitening Polish Targets teeth staining tannins found in a variety of different foods such as coffee, tea, and wine. Low in abrasion, it doesn’t harm the enamel resulting in whiter teeth that are healthier and stronger. £12.99 – mrblancteeth.com

Yuushuu Scissors Meaning ‘excellence’ in Japanese, Yuushuu is a new range of professional scissors crafted from the highest quality, graded Japanese stainless steel. Each pair of scissors is housed in a beautiful ‘oriental’ (traditional kimono pattern) box with a hidden magnetic closure for safe storage. £80 + VAT – capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk

Viviscal Hair Growth Supplements Backed by 25 years of scientific research, Viviscal is suitable for anyone seeking thicker, fuller, healthier looking hair. Whether you are suffering from hair thinning, excess shedding, or simply want to achieve the healthier, confidence boosting hair that you deserve. £49.95 – viviscal.co.uk

Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser This intensive cleanser polishes away dullness and impurities for a smoother, younger-looking complexion. It smooths the texture of skin, clearing pores of dead skin cells and removing trapped dirt and impurities, helping to leave skin soft, smooth and supple, to revealing a younger-looking complexion £35.00 - murad.co.uk

Editor’s ChoiceENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 23


Hairburst Chewable Gummies Keep your hair healthy and maintain fast growth with these chewable sweets, a lifesaver for anyone who finds it difficult to swallow tablets. You’ll want to take more than two of the delicious strawberry and blackcurrant flavours each day but stick to the recommended amount!

P R O D U C T S

£19.99 – hairburst.com

milk_shake Texturising Spritz Particularly suitable for fine hair, this bodifying spray gives support, creates volume and waves with a matte finish. Enriched with luxury active ingredients that nourish and protect the hair from colourfading and dehydration. £13.99 – milkshakehair.co.uk

Kerastase Bain Chromatique From the Reflection collection, this colour radiance protecting shampoo gives vibrant colour and sublime texture. Rice bran oil nourishes the fibre to emphasise shine while vitamin E and UV filters protect from oxidative aggressions. £18.62 – kerastase.co.uk

Electric P*-4 Preparation Spray A summer essential, this multi-functional spray leaves hair protected, enhanced and manageable so that you can enjoy your holiday without worry. Packed with nourishing oils, the lightweight formula acts as a leave-in conditioner, hydrating sun parched hair. Perfect for reviving and refreshing hair when it becomes dull and flat. £17.50 – electric-hair.com

Unite 7Seconds Shampoo & Conditioner A classic combination that you’ll fall in love with. This shampoo and conditioner from Unite protects hair from UV rays, thermal damage, and colour fading while adding brilliant shine. And as with all of Unite’s ethically responsible products it is paraben and sodium chloride free. £23 each – unitehair.co.uk

HairENVY 24 | SalonNV Magazine


Organic Colour Systems Revive Volumising Dry Shampoo An ideal salon retail product, it’s perfect for clients who may not wish to wash their hair every day following their service or those who want a little lift and refresh during the day. One little bottle gives over 100 washes of its ultimate absorption, cleansing, and refreshing properties.

P R OD U C T S

£14.95 – organiccoloursystems.com

Quai Smooth Shampoo Achieve ultra-sleek locks with this award-winning cleanser developed specifically to meet the needs of unruly, frizz prone hair. It thoroughly cleanses each fibre whilst replenishing hair’s moisture levels. Enriched with a reviving aroma which combines Italian lemon, white musk, and jasmine. £22 – lookfantastic.com

Zen Hair Wefts Extending their growing range to introduce wefts, Zen Hair have carefully curated the finest 100% virgin Remy human hair to create their most elite series yet. Available in 30 shades and three different length, the wefts can be cut, toned, and styled in the same way as natural hair. From £130 +VAT – zenhair.co

Moroccanoil Treatment Original For silky, shiny, and healthy hair, Moroccanoil Treatment is the product that pioneered oil-infused hair care and created worldwide buzz on argan oil. Can be used as a conditioning, styling, and finishing tool to leave you with nourished, manageable, and smooth hair with each use. £32.85 – feelunique.com

HairENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 25


Bio-Essence 24K Bio-Gold Night Cream Recharge and restore radiance with this night cream that’s high in anti-oxidants and nutrients to stimulate skin renewal while you sleep. This intensively nourishing moisturiser helps to defy and reduce fine lines and wrinkles on the face and neck. £23.99 – superdrug.com

P R O D U C T S

Eminence Microgreens Detox Collection If your clients have ever experienced that pore-clogging, dehydrated-skin feeling after a day in the city, they’ll know the effects that pollution can have on their complexion. Luckily, this new range combats environmental stressors, plus cleanse, exfoliate, detox and protect all skin types. Theskinsmith.co.uk

Liz Earle Cleanse & Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser Enriched with cocoa butter to soften, smooth and moisturise, and rosemary, chamomile and eucalyptus to tone, soothe and purify – this rich, indulgent cream deeply cleanses to instantly remove daily grime, pollutants and make up, even stubborn mascara, to leave skin feeling comfortable, balanced and exceptionally clean. £14.50 – uk.lizearle.com

NovaLash 24 Hour Cream Shadow Kit Containing three pots of NovaLash’s 24 Hour Cream Shadow palettes, this kit is ideal for festival goers looking to maintain a flawless make-up look through challenging conditions. The wide spectrum of colours is 100% water and sweat resistant, eliminating the need for retouching. £18.50 – novalash.com

bareMinerals Prime Time Brightening Foundation Primer Create a smooth, flawless make-up base with this ultra-lightweight, multi-tasking formula dedicated to improving skin tone and texture. Blends effortlessly onto skin to minimise the appearance of enlarged pores whilst combating dullness and rough, dry areas for a brighter, more refined finish. £23 – bareminerals.co.uk

Skin & Make-upENVY 26 | SalonNV Magazine


GiGi Pore Refining Facial Hard Wax This multifunctional 3-in-1 product exfoliates dead skin cells while removing unwanted facial hair and stubborn blackheads. A proprietary blend of exotic plant extracts and special bonding agents help unclog pores and easily remove extractions. This strip-less hard wax gently exfoliates the skin while removing all unwanted hair from fine (peach fuzz) to stubborn facial hair.

PRODUCTS

£13 – gigispa.com

Gatineau AHA Body Lotion With a light, delicate texture that’s suitable for all hair types, this body lotion works especially on dry skin, moisturising any problem areas. In addition, a skin softening complex helps to renew cells and improve skin elasticity so it becomes suppler and feels silky smooth. £21 – lookfantastic.com

Elemis Tan Accelerator Optimise your natural tanning ability with this pre-tanning lotion containing a blend of shea butter, macadamia nut oil, jojobo oil and tyrosine. Use in the summer or before a holiday to moisturise the skin, leaving it soft, supple, and in optimum condition to promote a rich and golden sun tan. £23 – elemis.com

Pevonia De-Aging Saltmousse This award-winning spa exfoliating product is a holistic treatment for the recovery of health and energetic skin through the powerful release of negative ions. As water is added to the formula, the skin if gently polished with this exquisite aromatic scrub. £52 – pevonia.co.uk

Sienna X Staycation Heading abroad for a much-needed break this summer? Or just basking in the sunshine in the UK? Either way this kit bag with four hero products will ensure your tan is perfect. Contains Q10 Tinted Bronzing Mousse, Polishing Body Scrub, Radiance Body Balm, and Luxury Tanning Mitt. £20.42 + VAT – sienna-x.co.uk

Body, Tanning & WaxingENVY www.SalonNV.co.uk | 27


High Definition Tunic Relaunching exclusively for certified HD Brows stylists, stockists, and make-up artists, comes this bespoke uniform in a comfortable tailored fabric that will stand up to the rigours of the profession. £24 + VAT – labeebyacademy.co.uk

P R O D U C T S

Envy Professional Radial Brush Set Ideal for styling almost any length of hair, helping to create lift and volume, add curl, or create a smooth sleek finish. Ergonomically designed with a soft rubber grip and boar bristle for creating fabulous shine. £45 – envypro.co.uk

Maletti Grimilde Mirror, mirror, on the wall, who’s the fairest of them all? Give your salon a touch of glam with this freestanding wall mirror with a characteristic oval shape. Inspired by the fairy tale of Snow White, it’s sure to be a talking point. Malettigroup.com

Takara Belmont Rollerball-F Four new shades have been added to the stylish Rollerball-F series from Takara Belmont. Available in wall-mounted or mobile versions, infrared technology cuts down on processing time, minimises damage, and provides a more comfortable client experience. £1,850 + VAT – takarahairdressing.co.uk

Living it up Salon Pandora Chair Lighten up the look of your salon with this bestselling cream chair. Also available with a matching backwash, it has a classic cube design with a quirky edge as its padded arms add texture and definition. £211.50 – livingitupsalon.co.uk

Furniture & EquipmentENVY 28 | SalonNV Magazine


MrBlancTeeth has helped thousands of customers from all over the world achieve a whiter smile. MrBlanc products are designed to whiten your natural teeth and prevent buildup of stains.

For prices please contact Natalie 0113 360 6545 Extension 303 | www.MrBlancTeeth.com

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The Festival of Hair Almost 10,000 people attended Hair Expo Australia, the premiere hair event in Australasia. With over 150 shows on three stages, 10 dedicated education rooms, and more than 1,500 models styled by over 500 educators, it’s truly one of a kind. An event worth travelling around the world for. Sydney welcomed not only the continent’s biggest brands and hottest talent but the industry’s top names from around the world. Balmain’s International Master trainer Guido Rieger made the trip to showcase the luxury fashion house’s line of professional hair care products. From the United States, Pulp Riot launched travelled to Australia to launch the brand in the country and celebrity stylist Guy Tang showed his colour credentials to a delighted show audience. While Australia’s home grown social media superstar Natalie Anne launched her new hair care line at the expo. One of the highlights of the event is the Schwarzkopf Professional Hair Expo Awards, calling attention to the unbelievable standard of hairdressing down under. This year, James Fassbender, Creative Director at Parlour Hair Unley salon in Adelaide, took home the top crown of 2017 Australian Hairdresser of the Year. More than 1,000 hair professionals gathered to hear 20 winners announced at the lavish awards gala hosted by The Bachelor’s Osher Gunsberg and held in the Grand Ballroom of the ICC, Sydney. You can see the full list of winners across the page.

People’s Choice Awards Natasha King


2017 SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL HAIR EXPO AWARDS WINNERS AUSTRALIAN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Jason Fassbender – Parlour Hair Unley, Malvern SA

NEW ZEALAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Danny Pato – D&M Hair Design, Ponsonby, NZ

HALL OF FAME INDUCTEE Jane Trewin, TAFE NSW

COLOUR TECHNICIAN OF THE YEAR Adrian Rotolo – Ibiza Hair, Albert Park VIC

MEN’S HAIRDRESSER/BARBER OF THE YEAR Uros Mikic – Kinky Curly Straight, Stepney SA

NEW CREATIVE FORCE Cherie Falco - Kinky Curly Straight, Stepney SA

APPRENTICE/STUDENT OF THE YEAR Sharne Rizzo – Joey Scandizzo Salon, South Yarra VIC

SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR é Salon, Wahroonga NSW

SESSION STYLIST OF THE YEAR Sarah Laidlaw - Union Management, Randwick NSW Salon Team of The Year - é Salon

PEOPLE’S CHOICE Natasha King - Fred and Gingers, Invercargill NZ

BEST SALON DESIGN Salon Kiin, Penrith NSW

EDUCATION BUSINESS OF THE YEAR Sharon Blain Education

EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR Caterina Di Biase

INDUSTRY BUSINESS PERFORMANCE OF THE YEAR Eco Heads

SALON BUSINESS OF THE YEAR Luke Reynolds Hairdressing

STATE CATEGORIES NSW-ACT Hairdresser of the Year Scott Sloan - Sloans, Lane Cove NSW

SA-TAS Hairdresser of the Year Cherie Falco - Kinky Curly Straight, Stepney SA

VIC Hairdresser of the Year Hermiz Daniel - Joey Scandizzo Salon, South Yarra VIC

WA-NT Hairdresser of the Year Pauline McCabe Rock Paper Scissors Hair Studio, Freemantle WA VIC Hairdresser of the Year - Hermiz Daniel

QLD Hairdresser of the Year William Webb - Ella & Jade, Calamvale QLD


Carl Bembridge Carl’s Column

Welcome to the regular column from celebrity hairdresser and premier wigmaker Carl Bembridge.

Festival ready hair

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ove them or loathe them, this is the season of festivals! Since Glastonbury kicked it all off way back in 1970, the music festival has become a rite of passage for many. With everything from Blissfields to the family-friendly Green Man, there is something to tick every musical box. But festival these days aren’t just about the music, festival style has evolved over the decades, so much so that the events are as much about looking good and showing off your personal style as they are about catching up with your favourite bands. From its small beginnings, Glastonbury is now the largest greenfield festival in the world and attracts around 175,000 visitors - which adds up to a sizeable and increasingly stylish audience. The fashion checklist runs the gamut from Hunter wellies and denim cut-offs, to slogan tees and the coolest waterproof you can find! But when it comes to hair, you need a style that will stand up to camping - glamping if you’re lucky - sun, wind, and rain. Fear not though, there are a range of tips and tricks, and great products around now to take the fuss out of festival fun. Even if you weren’t hanging out with the likes of Katy Perry or Lorde at the celeb-tastic US music fest that is Coachella this year, you can take inspiration from the fab festival hair that was on show. It’s clear to see that colour had a major role to play, from Kylie Jenner’s choice of dayglo yellow for her wig to rainbow-influenced braiding. Fun and funky is the perfect look for festival hair, which is what it should be - if you can’t rock a neon wig at a music festival, when can you? I’m all about wigs for upping the fun or glam ante at big events - you can dramatically alter your look quickly and easily, without the time, effort, and maintenance required for drastic changes to your own style or colour. Braids are always going to be a festival favourite - once in, they pretty much take care of themselves. Keep a frizz-free oil or creme handy to tame any flyaways once you are out and about if you are aiming for a neat style to start with, but otherwise this is a look that will see you through from salon to final encore.

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Longer hair can be entirely braided with single sections coloured or opt for the full pastel-colour spectrum a la Chanel Iman at this year’s Coachella. If you don’t want the trouble of braiding, simply take a leaf out of Sophie Turner’s book and add a blast of baby pink colour to your loose locks. This is the ideal time to experiment to the max with spray-on colour and hair chalks - the brighter the better this year! If you have masses of long hair, think about a triple braid - simply section your hair into nine parts to create three braids, then braid those three together. Team this style with suede and fringing for a dramatic, frontier-girl look! If you have thick hair but want something funkier than the usual top knot, think about a braided bun. (When it comes


to braiding, if you cross the strands under each other you get a Dutch braid, which raises the hair up from your head, rather than crossing it over for a French braid, which weaves the hair closer to the scalp.) Weave two loose plaits from as close to the scalp as possible and secure before gathering the two plaits in a ponytail at the nape of the neck and twisting the remainder up into a bun. The result should be loose and slightly messy looking - ideal for festival going. Braids are also a great way to liven up shorter hair. Braided ‘headbands’ are easy to create. Use a mousse or dry shampoo to add volume then French braid your hair across the head from one ear to the other, creating a cute braided ‘band’. For those who simply don’t have the time to do anything dramatically different, side ponytails were all over the place at Coachella, either sweet and simple like Taylor Hill’s upswept, laidback look, or teamed with a cute peaked cap in the style of model Chanel. According to gorgeous Danish model Josephine Skriver, bunches are back big time. She has been spotted sporting hers high and straight, teamed with bold white-rimmed shades and denim cut-offs. Of course, Space Buns are always a winner at festival time. Created from a couple of pigtails and pinned in place on the top of your head. A liberal sprinkling of hair glitter to elevate them to festival ready wouldn’t go amiss here either. Dry shampoo comes into its own at festival time. Remember it’s also great as a styling tool - use it on your roots to add volume to help create tousled ponytails and full braids. And remember, festivals are all about having fun. This is the season for playful hair, so make the most of it.

Fun and funky is the perfect look for festival hair - if you can’t rock a neon wig at a music festival, when can you?

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 35


FESTIVAL GLAM Festival season is upon us. That means listening to good music while drinking overpriced Prosecco in a muddy field – but you can still look good while you do it! Facilities aren’t always the best so we’re thankful for Oway’s latest range of products that help create a multitude of easy, carefree looks with minimal effort including their Glamshine Cloud, a glossing mist which adds high-shine to styles and leaves hair with a beautiful delicate scent. If you’re away for a few days you’ll want to keep your style for longer with the Oway Sculpting Mist; its extra-strong hold makes it a firm festival favourite. To add a pop of co lour to your festival look, NovaLash’s 24 Hour Cream Shadow palettes are a winner. Whether you go for their earthy ‘Garden of Paradise’ or rich and radiant ‘Oxblood’, they’ll last as long as you do with no need for retouching. That means more time to enjoy the festivities!

NovaLash

24 Hour Cream Shadow palettes

Oway

Glamshine Cloud & Sculpting Mist

Linton & Mac at Enjoy Music Festival Linton & Mac, the multi award-winning, independent hairdressing and beauty salon in Netherkirkgate, Aberdeen, hosted a pop-up salon at the Enjoy Music Festival this month. Taking residence at the festival for a second year running, the team of stylists proved to be a huge hit with festival-goers, who were given the chance to try out festival-worthy hairstyles and make-up. The Enjoy Music Festival, held at Hazelhead Park, Aberdeen, brings together some of the coolest bands and musicians to produce a day of music, dancing, and family entertainment. This year, nine Linton & Mac stylists were on hand to offer a menu of festival styles, especially curated for the event. The most soughtafter services at the pop-up salon were boho braids, tie-dyed weaves, glitter roots and make-up. Linton & Mac Co-Directors, Jennifer Linton and J MacDonald said: “The Enjoy Music Festival is a fantastic local event that we were thrilled to collaborate with for a second year running. Our pop-up salon was buzzing all day, with all age groups taking advantage of our super-cool festival hair and make-up menu, inspired by our Digital Love festival collection. “This year we also introduced a lounge area where guests could relax before dancing the night away. This included a purpose made selfie wall with perfect lighting, a Linton & Mac backdrop, and a 6ft blow up pink flamingo! We can’t wait for next year’s event!”

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Festival Looks

SHORT HAIR: Dutch Braids

Lidia Patrizia, stylist for Blue Tit Brixton gives us her top festival styles and how to create them, no matter the hair length.

The perfect way to disguise dirty, greasy, festival hair, braids have been a huge trend, both on and off the catwalk, and their versatility and ability to transform a look means their popularity shows no sign of disappearing. A Dutch Braid is so easy to recreate and is the perfect choice for short hair. A huge bonus is that braids work better in hair that hasn’t been washed, making them this summer’s number-one festival style.

LONG HAIR: Glitter Buns When it comes to festivals, there are no boundaries for long hair. This S/S17, one of the main trends for festival hair is the Glitter Bun. This creative and quirky look suits every hair colour imaginable, and ensures that you stand out from the crowd.

How To Create 1. Part the hair straight down the middle and secure each section into high ponytails with a clear hair band. 2. Take the first ponytail and begin to wrap the length of the hair around the hair band. Create the size of bun that you envisioned and secure tightly with hairpins. 3. Take the second ponytail and repeat the process, aiming to make the bun the same size as the first one. 4. Brush hair oil along the parting and sprinkle the glitter over the oil.

How To Create 1. Section the hair into two sections straight through the middle parting. 2. Take a diagonal section at the front, before splitting that section into three. 3. As this is a Dutch braid, each section is taken under the middle section instead of over (like a French braid). 4. Start by holding one section in one hand, and the other two sections in the other hand. 5. Using your right hand, place one of the side sections under the middle section in to your other hand. 6. Then using your left hand, place the other side section underneath the middle section and place into your right hand. 7. Repeat until all sections of the hair have been taken into the braid. 8. Use the same process for the second braid.

MID-LENGTH HAIR: Disco Curls In continuation from last season’s obsession with curls, the S/S17 shows were big on texture and waves. Beachy, power curls, tousled, or Hollywood glam, one of the best hair lengths to create the perfect curl is mid-length. My favourite curl for festival season is the disco curl as it is easy to create, holds really well, and looks effortlessly cool.

How To Create 1. Using hair straighteners begin to feed the hair into the plate in a ‘S’ shape. 2. Press the plates together to create heat and tension, which will set the hair in the ‘S’ shape. 3. Continue to do this throughout the head in sections until all of the hair has been curled. 4. Leave the hair as it is for an intense wave, or brush through the hair with a soft brush to break up the waves for a much softer look.

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 37


Erin Gavin’s LA Life Hello! Festival season is upon us! I was fortunate to get to experience the vibe at Coachella music festival this year in Palm Springs. 12 friends, a private jet, a mansion, and artist passes... what more can you ask for in life! We had a fantastic time. Although I would advise if you ever decide to go to Coachella, save your money and don’t buy VIP passes. The VIP areas are nothing special, the only benefit really is that you don’t have to wait in queues and the area looks slightly prettier.  Lady Gaga was my favourite act of the fest! I met up with some of my Scottish friends there - I love catching up with people from home in different parts of the world.   The festival style was very Bohochic with an abundance of gold and silver tattoos to complement the look. This is the summer style this year in Los Angeles which suits me just fine comfortable and cool!  I landed back in LA with a day to recover and then straight into auditions! I casted for a film to play a Scottish part. I did the best I could but they really were looking for someone with real red hair and more mumsy looking. Casting told me I was more of a Beverly Hills young mom. I’ll take that into consideration.  My next role was playing the part of Pineapple in a hilarious new TV comedy called X Destroy Fire. One of my BFF’s Kristen Dalton recommended me for the role. Kristen is playing the lead who is the boss of a fashion house. All we did was laugh on set as the scenes are just genius, really funny! I loved working on this TV show.  Keep an eye out for it. Since the show takes a poke at fashion, we all wore ridiculous outfits to exaggerate

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the fashion style. Pineapple’s day wardrobe was very sparkly and skimpy so lots of Fake bake tan was required during the make-up of Pineapple and my hair was styled into a Pineapple to finish off the look.  My friend Bernadette Greene is the Duty Consul for Britain in Los Angeles and this is her last week! So we had a party for her and since it was also her birthday I dressed as Marilyn Monroe and sang Happy Birthday... of course! Bernadette is also Scottish so I am going to miss my wee partner in crime. We had a wee drink or two being the true Scots that we are... and I ended up fully clothed as Marilyn in her swimming pool! Fun times!  I went to Formula1 in LA with my friend Bear and Cindy Cowan. It is one of the things I recommend you do if you visit LA in the summer. It’s a great day out with loads of other events going on around the same venue as well. Fab entertainment value.  I have been asked to be a key note speaker at the World Women Foundation at the Clinton Foundation in the US. I feel very privileged and super excited. Also a tad nervous so I’m off to work on my speech :)


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Sa lon

urban hair Team Urban Owner – Marlene Manager – Nicola Senior Stylist – Abbi Senior Stylist – Lori Senior Stylist – Scott Apprentice – Shannon Apprentice – Shayla Apprentice – Blayre Apprentice – Alex Beauty Therapist – Seonad Make-up Artist – Samantha PA - Pamela

Multi-award winning salon taking the industry by storm

F

rom humble beginnings in Cumnock, Urban Hair and Beauty has become a national phenomenon. With a small local population and no significant tourist trade, the odds were always against Urban, but the drive and ambition of owner Marlene Lamont has well and truly put them on the map. Now with awards piling up from around the UK and customers regularly travelling from cities 40 miles away, just how has Urban done it? With 23 years of experience behind her, Marlene was no novice to the industry when she set up Urban. An award-winning stylist in her own right, with an NHF British Trophy and Yorkshire Men’s Medal on the wall, she combined her skills with that of a small, trusted team of four to open the original Urban. It wasn’t long before the team expanded and they outgrew themselves, moving to their current location on the outskirts of nearby Auchinleck.

Family Values Currently there’s 13 on the team, with training beginning in January to increase the number even further. Two of the girls who started with Marlene are now considered amongst the best in the nation, with Nicola Dow winning Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards Colourist of the Year in 2014 and 2015, while Abbi Riddell was voted Scottish Hairdresser of the Year 2014. The rest of the team add a youthful exuberance alongside Marlene’s experience. “They’re a great bunch of young ones, they keep me motivated,” says Marlene. “Lori is the oldest at 30, then Abbi at 28, then Nicola at 25, and the rest are under 25. Then there’s me at 50! But I don’t feel 50 at all, they’re always asking me to get involved with events with them.”

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It’s a setup which has proved successful and Marlene says the close knit team “work like a big family.” Literally, as Marlene’s daughter Samantha also helps out on the beauty side of things when she isn’t at university in Glasgow.

New Premises With business booming, Urban moved to what has now become home. And, as always, Marlene called upon family to help put it together – her son is a building and heating engineer and he helped turn what at first looked like an impossible dream into a reality. Marlene explains: “It was a great big empty space. When I took the young ones in to start with their first words were ‘holy fuck!’” But Marlene isn’t one to shy away from a challenge and having designed it herself it’s a bustling beauty paradise. Situated on the outskirts of Auchinleck, a small village just outside Cumnock, Urban is close to the train station that links the village to both Glasgow up north and Carlisle in England, where they soon hope to have a training facility. This accessibility has allowed for new clients to find the salon with ease, regardless of how far they are travelling.

Community Spirit The salon has become more than just a place to get your hair done. Marlene is originally from the area and is passionate about ensuring that local youths are first in line to be trained up when jobs are available. It’s a fantastic opportunity in an area where such chances are few and far between, with Urban even training up several of the Unsurprisingly, the locals are proud to have such a renowned salon in Cumnock and


Marlene treats them like they are part of the family. “Customers coming in should be treated like they’re coming into our home, like coming to visit friends,” she says. For their part, the customers are equally full of praise about the salon’s quality, and in particular the atmosphere, with one saying: “It’s a lovely place to go. It’s like a night out with your friends. All you need is a drink and a dance floor!” Despite the awards being heaped on Urban, Marlene has never considered making the salon unaffordable to the local community or just focussing on high fashion. “I believe you should be able to do everyone from babies to pensioners. You should just do the trends, you should accommodate everyone. It’s nice to have that mix. Wee ladies at 70 want to be as glamorous as someone at 20. Your clients are what matters. “The customers do us the privilege of coming in, I think a lot of people forget that.”

Future Marlene is determined to continue spreading the word of Urban Hair and Beauty, and recently attended Pro Hair Live for some stage work with Nicola and Abbie, while the team also made it through to the regional final of the L’Oreal Colour Trophy. Marlene also has a place on the Hair Masters 2018 programme to look forward to so with the whole team pushing one another to test their creative boundaries and improve year on year, it’s an exciting time for Urban and we expect to see a lot more awards in their future.

www.SalonNV.co.uk | 41


GENNOW DIARY PART 5.

Kay Corbett

Stylist at award-winning Medusa Hair Group Kay Corbett, a stylist at award-winning Medusa Hair Group in Edinburgh, is embarking on a year-long whirlwind of learning as part of Wella’s Generation Now team. She’s going to keep us posted about what she gets up to throughout her 12 months

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Flying home halfway through holiday might seem a bit like overkill when it comes to career commitment, but I’d much rather have a shot at winning TrendVision than top up my tan on a beach in Portugal for a full seven days. So that’s what I did last month [May]. I abandoned my lovely husband, taking a flight back to Edinburgh to do my final prep the day before the Scottish heat of Wella’s TrendVision. Everything was pretty much done before I went but I wanted time to cope with any possible last-minute disasters. Fortunately there weren’t any, probably thanks to my GenNow training. Even the presentation went off smoothly, with no nerves to make me stumble. My inspiration was 1970s textiles and rugs, those wacky patterns and optical illusions that are smoking hot at the moment. I got the dress online, but jazzed it up with a necklace modelled on a Gucci one I saw, and created from a belt and big agate crystal – very Abigail’s Party. The day went well, very well. To my complete shock, I actually won a place in the UK final in October in London. Stunned, I took the 5am flight back to Portugal the following day and finished off my holiday in style. Of course, I spent the whole time going over the competition in my head, looking for ways to build towards an even better performance at the final. I also ran up to my data limit browsing the 70s on my phone. While it might appear that TrendVision preparation and participation has dominated my every waking moment, I have been doing other non-Wella stuff. I took to the hair stage at the Scottish Beauty Exhibition alongside my colleagues from Medusa, Peter Mellon, and Fraser McLean. Our

one-hour show went smoothly, again thanks to my GenNow training, which has prepared me so well for stage work my voice no longer shakes, at least not so much that the audience can hear it. Our compere was Ross Miller from Renella and Medusa Training, who is a seasoned performer, and he helped us keep the pace up. Now TrendVision is over, Wella is ratcheting up the GenNow activity again. I had to help judge the new team for 2017-18, which I had very mixed feelings about. I don’t want my time on the team to end. I also got to assisted at the Vivienne Westwood show at London Fashion Week Men’s, which was amazing. But it did mean I missed the Medusa Awards. That’s always a fantastic night and I was gutted to forego an opportunity to party with the rest of the team. But I reckon I’ve got my priorities right. GenNow comes first, especially when it was Vivienne Westwood, just as TrendVision had to trump a beach holiday in the sun. kayccorbett

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Dean Jones His Three Top Tips on Running a Successful Salon in a Busy City Centre

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ur salon based in the heart of Edinburgh’s City Centre, is celebrating three years in business, and my role as salon owner is still a learning curve every day. From previously working in a small salon in Fife, to working freelance around Edinburgh to opening my own salon, I have gained lots of experience and some tips on running a hairdressing salon in a busy city centre. Our salon has just been announced as ‘Best Edinburgh Business’ at the 2017 Edinburgh Business Awards and my first top tip would be to make your presence known and always get involved. Being involved with awards gives you the opportunity for people to hear your name and become aware of who you are and what you do. We have also finalized for a number of other industry awards and this definitely helps create a profile and awareness of your salon. My next top tip follows on from the first, always give back. From supporting other businesses, rewarding your clients and helping local charities, giving back is crucial to your success. For example, we have worked with and supported the Stonewall charity as they are in our local area and represent a cause that

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is close to our hearts. Being seen as a caring business differentiates you from your competitors and makes you feel great – win, win! The last top tip to running a successful salon in the city centre is to be different and think outside the box. There are likely to be lots of hairdressing salons in the area so you have to find something that makes you stand out and work at being unique, this can be something simple like holding events in your salon. We run Blowdry Masterclasses for small groups of our clients and their friends who want to replicate that salon finish at home. This allows us to get to know our client a bit more and hopefully gain new clients, this in turn allows them to feel confident styling their new hair at home and sets you apart from your competition. Whilst there is no ‘one size fits all’ formula for running a successful hairdressing salon in a busy city centre, these three tips are things that have helped me over the past three years. It is also important to continue learning as you progress, and each day teaches me something new which I love. Having a fabulous team behind you also helps a lot and as long as you have passion for what you do, success should follow.


BusinessNV

Emil Mcmahon

MR haircare

Soci a l M edi a: Do th e n u m bers a dd u p? The speedy turnaround in how all the different platforms work means you must keep your eye on what’s going on. Check out your suppliers’ posts, like them, follow them and tag them when you post anything linked to them. Do the same for your clients wherever possible, and encourage them to tag you in when they have been to the salon, get them to share their selfies with your salon name tagged in!

I am fascinated with social media and how it is used by businesses. All of the indicators and experts in the field of social activities suggest that companies should be both professional and amateur in a combined effort to look super sharp and human at the same time. Posting pics of the salon, products and haircuts is what it’s all about, but I can guarantee that an image of your pet will gather more likes, shares and tags that the sharpest bob or the most outrageous unicorn colour. And numbers… It seems we are obsessed with having thousands of followers, for what reason I am unsure as it is better to have 100 people who engage with your social posts than 1,000 who never do anything. Salons often ask me if they should buy followers on Instagram. My emphatic answer is NO. It’s not people you buy, it’s a robot and that’s hardly going to walk into your salon for a haircut any day soon. Grow your followers slowly, generate engagement gradually, that’s the sure fire way of helping your business grow from social activities. Numbers are important if you are trying to monitor the effectiveness of social posts but you need to be realistic about how much business you can get from your online world. It’s much better to use the different platforms to keep your salon profile highly visible. Remember, you might see a few likes on a post you created but it’s what happens when the friends of people who ‘liked’ your post see it as well that helps you get more noticed.

It’s a game really! Numbers are relevant but not as much as we are led to believe. The old adage ‘quality not quantity’ is what you should aim for, a good blend of ‘pro’ and ‘not so pro’ images that show your professionalism and your human side will help followers and potential followers see that you share more than just corporate and slick looking stuffs which could be automated. Use apps to create animation every now and again, I recommend RIPL and Boomerang as two easy to use applications that add a touch of fun to your sites. Don’t over do it though. The general rule of thumb is to post two professional images and one amateur style posting. Try to create a blend of work post - team images are very popular - product posts, client selfies, colour work, blow-dry images, and random stuff that adds the personal touch… But seriously if you have a dog, take lots of photos and post them too.

You need to be realistic about how much business you can get from your online world.

Emil McMahon provides social media caretaking for small businesses and delivers in salon training on all customer related topics. For more details visit www.emilthecaretaker. com or email emil-mcm@hotmail.com or call 07885 985843

Emil McMahon offers training on all aspects of customer interaction and social media. For more details visit www.emilthecaretaker.com or email emil_mcm@hotmail.com www.SalonNV.co.uk | 45


COLOUR ME B EAUTIF UL From highlights to balayage, semi-permanent pastels to root touch ups, colour is undeniably one of the most popular in-salon services salon owners can offer clients today, but the lengthy processing time taken to develop colour or chemical treatments can be damaging to the client’s hair. We spoke to Cari-Anne Rawlinson, Marketing Executive at Takara Belmont, about how their revolutionary Rollerball-F hair processor, with unique infrared technology, can cut down processing time, minimise damage and give a more comfortable client experience. We are all familiar with the iconic images of women sitting underneath cone-shaped hairdryers, hair coiffed with rollers, waiting for their styles to set in place. Since those early days, technology has come a long way and one brand pioneering change and continually pushing the boundaries of innovation in hairdressing equipment is Takara Belmont. An evolution of the original Rollerball, the Rollerball-F features the world’s first infrared dome with a rotating ring that offers an airiness and smart processing style that you can’t get with hood-shaped hair processors. “The unique rotating ring features a very efficient Carbon heater, which generates far infrared rays - a type of electromagnetic wave that helps to accelerate the chemical reactions of treatments such as perms and the processing of colour. When the hair and chemicals absorb these far infrared rays, it generates heat quickly, cutting processing time by half and therefore lessening the damage to the client’s hair,” explains Cari-Anne. “Stylists often find that clients complain that their head feels extremely hot when using traditional hooded processors. With its ring design, the Rollerball-F

gives the added benefit of ‘airiness’, which helps to keep the clients head cooler during treatment,” adds Cari-Anne. As colourists know from experience, there are often areas of the head and hair that take longer to ‘lift’ or absorb colour, leading to longer application times which can sometimes cause client discomfort, especially to those who have sensitive skin or scalps. “The Rollerball-F not only cuts processing time down for the stylist and client, but it can be set to target selected areas of the head, for example the nape or crown. Targeting those areas that are more complicated or don’t respond as readily to chemical applications, enables effective processing and means that clients can be treated in greater comfort.” It’s not only colour services that can benefit from this unique technology, but chemical treatments such as perms and straightening solutions too. “The settings ensure the tip of the ring has more output than the base, meaning efficient infrared rays can be produced to match the rotation of the ring, helping to prevent uneven penetration of colours, perms, or chemical treatments, leading to a beautiful finish”. Available as a mobile or wall-mounted unit, the Rollerball-F comes in several different colours including black, grey and silver, with four new shades, ‘Autumn Blue’, ‘Matcha Green’, ‘Crema’ and a wooden option called ‘Ebony’, being introduced in July to compliment a wide variety of salon interiors. For more information, please visit www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

TAILOR- MA DE FURNITURE

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Cadilla M, one amazing chair for a multitude of purposes.

takarahairdressing.co.uk

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Aesthetics

Dr Nestor Demosthenous

highlights - what can be done to look your very best at any age? As official figures relating to life expectancy continue to show, the UK population is living and working for longer than ever before. Many of us maintain healthy, active lives, and take a genuine interest in how we look and present ourselves to the world around us. It’s great news, but living and working longer can bring extra pressure when it comes to keeping up appearances.

Words: Dr Nestor

As we live and work longer, there is more emphasis put on looking - as well as feeling - your best. The media will always present images of youth associated with beauty at any given opportunity, however, with a number of advertising campaigns now headed up by older models - a striking 70-something Lauren Hutton currently modelling for Calvin Klein underwear to name but one - perceptions about age are being challenged. Looking good for your own age never felt better. There are, of course, a number of things we can do to make sure we live as healthy a life as possible, which contributes greatly to how we look. A good diet, getting enough exercise, sleeping well, keeping skin well hydrated, and minimising stress all play a part in us looking our best. But for the times in your life when you need a little extra help, cosmetic aesthetic treatments come into their own. Non-surgical procedures now offer a range of options available that are not there to fundamentally change the way you look, but are there to help you keep looking like you - just the best version of you that you can be, regardless of age. Most people will be familiar with the term Botox, but what you might not realise is that this drug has been used medically for more than 60 years and is the most researched drug in the world. In the hands of trained specialists, it is used to stop muscle activity in certain areas, which in turn stops those wrinkles from appearing when you smile, laugh or raise your eyebrows. Botox has been used cosmetically for 26 years now for getting rid of frown lines, crow’s feet and forehead lines, as well as on chins and around lips, reducing how much the skin over muscles is allowed to wrinkle. The result is a fresher, more youthful look.    Dermal fillers are another option to help restore youthful features without resorting to surgery. Young skin contains plenty of a naturally hydrating substance called hyaluronic acid (HA), but, as we age, sunlight and other damaging factors can reduce the amount of HA present in skin, which leads to skin losing volume and structure, resulting in wrinkles and folds.

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Fillers are smooth gels that are injected to soften those fine lines or to restore volume and natural contours in the face - they are a safe, effective and minimally invasive way to replenish the lost HA in your skin and replace the volume of more youthful features, reducing the signs of ageing. One of the specialities in our Edinburgh clinic is the Silhouette Soft thread lift, which provides an immediate mechanical lifting effect as well as a biological lift by boosting the natural production of collagen in the months that follow treatment. The lifting effect is noticeable right away, while the regeneration is gradual and natural. Once a suture is applied to skin, polylactic acid, which has been well used in the medical field for years, acts on the deeper layers of the skin and naturally stimulates the body to produce its own collagen. This action, which continues over time, helps increase the volume in areas of the face that have started to sag, and restore shape to the face gradually and naturally. Skin health is also affected by the ageing process, as well as lifestyle factors such as poor diet, smoking, drinking and exposing skin to too much sun; ageing skin is less hydrated and far less elastic. There are a number of steps we can take to look after skin, but the main one should be to protect it in the sun. Wearing sunscreen year-round will help skin to age well. Make sure you choose a good sunscreen, an SPF 50 that protects against UVA, UVB and infrared light, and apply plenty of it. Our skin specialist at the Edinburgh clinic

is Dr Lauren Jamieson Smylie. A trained and practicing GP, Dr Lauren offers nonsurgical facial aesthetic treatments that help prescription-strength products penetrate the skin for longer-lasting, deeper results. As a physician, Dr Lauren uses medicalgrade products and tools, including prescription-strength brands, during a medical facial. Her in-depth knowledge of physiology, combined with her knowledge and expertise in skin care, means her treatments get results. Medical facials are an effective way of complementing other noninvasive treatments such as fillers, Botox, and laser resurfacing. Medical facials are custom tailored to each patient’s individual skin needs and generally follow the same steps as a spa facial—cleansing, exfoliating, extraction, and hydrating—but on a more intense level. Dr Lauren is not a dermatologist, who would specialise in diseases of the skin and their treatment, she is concerned with the ageing process, the look and appearance of skin, and how to restore its youthful function and appearance. Medical facials are aimed at rectifying any damage to the skin caused by ageing, dehydration, sun damage, or acne. The treatment often requires a more vigorous approach than a regular facial, but the effects are always better and longer lasting than any spa facial could be. Dr Nestor’s Medical Cosmetic Centre, 53 Dundas Street, Edinburgh (www.drnestor.co.uk)


The ageing process BY JOSIE SMITH

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he ageing process, and my general appearance, perturb my sense of self and well-being, and punctuate my day at all too regular intervals. Oh to feel truly young again! Smooth skin, shiny hair, and not even a hint of the total body prolapse still to come. Cher was absolutely right to muse “If I could turn back time, if I could find a way…” Back in the early nineties, (when Cher was still sashaying around in fishnets and leather jackets), if you can remember watching Saved By The Bell, and listening to Duran Duran wail moodily about ‘An Ordinary World’, you probably remember when Fudge first introduced ‘Hair Shaper’. This was their strong hold texturising crème for shorter hair that proved instantly popular. It smelled beguilingly sweet and offered a malleable, matte, clay alternative to gel. Men in particular, bought the then unique product in their droves. Today, Fudge is still seen as a somewhat cult brand, with a diverse, high-performance product range. The cult classic Hair Shaper has stuck around, (quite literally), but now just as popular are Skyscraper, the hairspray loved by session stylists around the globe, Salt Spray which gives that effortless beachy look, Matt Hed Extra for the ultimate matte look, hydrating Hot Hed Style Whip, and Paintbox, the creative rainbow colour range that has never been more relevant, given the

zeitgeist of hair colour trends today - where anything goes. With a heritage founded in the professional hairdressing industry and an extensive product portfolio - from Headpaint dual system professional colour with its 85 shades and the iconic Paintbox vibrant colour range, through to best-selling Hair Shaper and Clean Blonde Violet shampoo - today, Fudge Professional offer inspiration and cool prodwucts for salon professionals and consumers alike. The latest addition to #PLANETF is Fudge’s Time Machine Treatment. It erase hairs’ chequered history and restores strength with its three-step trio for demi-permanent results. The first two steps are delivered rapidly insalon - in a not dissimilar fashion to getting colour applied. Step one is the Rewind Fuel, comprising of Keralink and Kerabind. Here coloured hair is firstly repaired and sealed at the cuticle with an intense concentration of proteins that lock in colour for up to ten weeks.  Step two is Seal & Armour. Here Keraguard sorts out your split ends. The third and last step of the Time Machine Treatment is an extended treatment at home, Top Lock, which gives further protection for a ten week period, and is effectively a deep conditioner. This final product should be used a few times a week, to maintain the improved condition of the hair between salon visits. If you’re concerned, as I am, about the effects of endless colouring and styling, not

to mention that peskily unstoppable process of growing older, this latest treatment from Fudge is definitely worth a try. Particularly if you’re someone who finds themselves in the washing/blow-drying/straightening cycle all too often. When I tried the Time Machine process for myself, I found the first two steps to be super-easy and quick, and the results lasted. A heat wave in London that commenced in earnest the day I tried the treatment, meant that directly after my blow dry, I left my hair up in clip for days. But happily it retained its new silky lustre, when I eventually washed and dried it again. I look forward to keeping up appearances in the coming weeks via my bottle of Top Lock now firmly ensconced in my shower. Now I just have to worry about getting my newly treated locks trimmed… and coloured. And then there’s the small matter of my full body lift… For full details on all of Fudge’s product range go to www.fudgeprofessional.com

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dealing with mental health: Anxiety

Mental illness doesn’t care how successful you are. It doesn’t care how happy you’ve been. It doesn’t care if you’re popular. It can affect anyone indiscriminately as Craig Andrew discovered. An experienced stylist who had worked for Rainbow Room International and internationally on cruise ships before opening up his own Glasgow salon in 2008, Craig’s life and career was turned upside down when he started suffering from anxiety – a condition he’d never been affected by before. Craig tells us that the effects were grim. “I was unable to leave my house for a long time and it really affected my business. I was unable to come into work and had to have my staff take over. There are bits of that time which are just blank to me. My friend was talking to me about taking me to hospital and I couldn’t remember it at all.” For someone whose job relied on getting to his salon and dealing with customers, Craig’s anxiety was making it almost impossible for him to make a living. Although he was fortunate that as the salon owner he could rely on his staff taking care of clients when he was unable to make it in, the effects were still detrimental to his business including losing 50% of his client base. Unlike many people, Craig was quick to seek help and he encourages other sufferers to do the same. “It’s important to be honest with your doctor about how low you’re feeling; they made a big difference. It took a few medications to get it right – they put me

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on one but I wasn’t feeling better after 3-4 months, even a higher dose didn’t work. They then put me on a different medication last November and that seemed to work.” Many people try and force themselves into social situations in a bid to beat anxiety, but for Craig leaving the house and going to places like bars didn’t help him, even the simplest tasks could leave him sweating and in fear. He simply had to let it run its course. But there were some things that helped improve his situation.

to judge you. If you have an interview with a college go to the college the week before and get familiar with it so it’s not so daunting.” Although he’s out of his darkest days, Craig’s anxiety will never leave him. Gaining knowledge about what he’s facing has helped him to tackle it head on.

“I still have bad days but they are few and far between,” he says. “My therapist helped a lot by explaining how I used it as an excuse, ‘oh I have a mental health disorder’, rather than embracing it. It’s a part of me but it “Don’t push yourself too hard,” he tells us. doesn’t define me and I’m not going to let “If you’re feeling low, reach out to a friend it control me like it did for the best part of a and ask them to come round and spend some year.” time with you. Have a positive outlook and Craig has come out of the ordeal stronger seek as much advice about it as you can. If than ever, despite the problems it has caused, you asked me at my deepest point I’d have and hopefully his bravery in speaking out said ‘This is going to consume my life’, for someone so independent in their 20s, who felt about it will encourage anyone in similar invincible, dealing with this hit me for six. But circumstances to seek help. you do get through it.” For anxiety sufferers passionate about hair who feel their condition may make working in the industry impossible, Craig offers this advice. “I think it’s about finding a comfortable social environment. Finding a salon or college or training academy or a mentor who you feel comfortable and relaxed with who isn’t going

If you are feeling low, reach out to a friend and ask them to come around and spend some time with you.


8 Reasons Why It Pays For Your Salon To Go Green!

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Katie Margereson

ere’s a fact for you: The average four station salon wastes 143,000 litres of water a year! Gone are the days where going green was an expensive luxury that many homes, never mind salons, couldn’t afford to even consider. Now before I carry on let me make it clear that I’m not talking about wearing hessian skirts and making conditioner out of honey and egg yolk! Times have changed, ecological technology has become cheaper and the benefits to businesses have become more apparent through proven data based research!

are more inclined to feel money will be well spent.

Here are reasons why every salon can benefit from going green:

Builds team morale

To save money

What is at the forefront of the mind of most salon owners? Money! Finally the eco industry is producing equipment and products that are within most salons’ budgets. This can be in the form of LED lighting, water, energy saving equipment, and recyclable goods. Making a small investment in these cutting edge technologies usually pays for itself within months and from then on you’ll see a noticeable savings in your expenditures.

Securing your salon’s future

By becoming less reliant on energy services means not only becoming a more selfsufficient business but you secure the monetary future of your business by keeping costs down on a monthly basis, almost like putting into a pension, you’re making sure that if times get tough your costs will be as low as they can possibly be.

Access to grants

By showing that you are committed to becoming a sustainable salon you prove to local government bodies that you are deserving of many grants that are available to businesses, even small steps can show your salon in a positive light when it comes to grants being given out. It shows you are thinking about the future and local chambers

It frees up time

Forget about hours sifting through recycling! While doing your bit in that sense is fantastic, most salons feel they are too busy to do this. Switching over to disposable towels for example is an excellent move, imagine the time that is freed up by not laundering towels on a daily basis. Your trainees could be helping with other things in salon instead by making sure customers are happy or doing online promotion. It is shown that when a team has a common goal or aim they work better together. You can make the transition into becoming more sustainable more fun by setting targets or competitions for employees. For example: see who can use the least disposable towels that day with a reward of getting to leave ten minutes early. But it’s not all fun and games, if you show your staff that you are thinking about the future and growth of the business you’re giving them the confidence that their jobs are secure and that there is a real future for them in your establishment. When staff are proud of their salon it shines through to customers which is priceless!

green salon is something to shout about! It shows the public you’re here to stay, that you care about your community and that you’re a responsible business. On a very basic level it also show that you must be flying high as a business to put the effort into becoming sustainable, this increases the public’s confidence in you by indicating that you must be great at what you do, hairdressing! By promoting yourselves as being an ecological salon you’re creating a buzz and a reason to shout about what you do. You can do this on your social media pages or even by entering green business competitions and maybe winning awards. We all know much clients love a nice award sat on the shelf! This in turn will get your customers talking about you and more clients coming through your door.

Giving back

Obviously it’s not all about money, doing your bit for the environment is a great feeling. It is a fantastic initiative to set up in your business as you are doing it not only for the success of your salon but for the planet. You can’t get much bigger than that. So remember, taking baby steps is the way forward. Make small changes and you’ll see the results much sooner than you think. We’ll tell you the steps to take to achieving this soon in the next issue of SalonNV.

Great employee training

By setting an excellent example to your team members by conserving energy and money you are teaching lessons which they may have never experienced. Let’s face it no one wants a wasteful employee who doesn’t think about the consequences of their actions. If you show them the steps to being more responsible with energy and money that will always transition into other areas of your business so can only be of benefit to all!

Fantastic PR opportunity

Making the positive steps to becoming a

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Feature by Josie Smith

L’oreal Colour trophy 2017 I love the passion, flamboyance and creativity of the hairdressing world. I love hairdressers’ enthusiasm, and their professional commitment.

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veryday life can be a bit mundane for most of us, regardless of our jobs, and the daily struggle of trying to make ourselves look halfway presentable to the outside world is an ongoing saga - but I can’t think of a better day than the occasions where it is actually a good hair day! Your life might not be perfect, but there’s always the hope that your hair could be. And of course it was Coco Chanel herself who said, ‘A woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life.’ So, in search of hairspiration as ever, I set off to attend the longest running live hairdressing competition in the world, which finally came to fruition this year in south-west London on the 5th of June. The L’Oréal Colour Trophy has evolved somewhat from its origins 62 years ago, growing from only 300 attendees back in 1954, to its modern-day metamorphosis - where it now welcomes thousands of the industry’s

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greatest talents to celebrate the very brightest in hairdressing expertise from across Great Britain, ensuring that hairdressers nationwide are continually galvanized to celebrate ‘Hair Inspired by Fashion’. Most importantly, it gives all manner of salons the chance to unleash their stars. For each of the categories, entrance to the competition was free, and you didn’t have to be a L’Oréal salon to enter. (In fact, 20% of salons that entered the L’Oréal Colour Trophy in 2016 were non L’Oréal Professionnel clients.) The event was again broken down into four categories for entrants; the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award, the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Men’s Image Award, the L’Oréal Colour Trophy STAR Award and the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Afro Look Award, and these auspicious and highly coveted accolades are the result of months of preparation from each entrant. The competition officially opened on the 3rd of January 2017, and closed on the 28th of February. Between late February and early June the months are first interspersed with official announcements revealing the Backstage Live Finalists, before a mammoth Backstage Live Tour crisscrosses the whole of the UK. It all culminated this year with the grand final taking place in Battersea Evolution, a dynamic and versatile event space that hosted not just countless glamorous, excited, and talented industry newcomers on the night, but highly skilled judging panels too. Industry heavyweights including, Trevor Sorbie, Errol Douglas MBE, Kim Johnson, Richard Ward, Chris Williams, and Jason Miller - to name but a few, were amongst the great and the good tasked with deciding upon the winners. Add to this heady professional mix endless free flowing champagne, two phenomenal catwalk show productions - ‘Expression of Colour’ by the Colour Collective Team, and ‘Elements’ by the Toni&Guy International Art Team, and an exceptionally enthusiastic and competitive crowd, and there’s a memorable explosion of creative celebration to be had. The first aspect of the evening that struck me was the polished, slick finish of the whole production from L’Oreal Professional. It is quite literally a cutting edge event. From the massive rolling screens featuring sharp, bright video imagery as attendees enjoyed a bustling admission, to the scale and quality of the aforementioned catwalk shows, you could see exactly why this is such an aspirational

evening for so many salons country-wide. And rightly so that these zealous hairdressers get rewarded at such a high level for their fantastic creative endeavours - because the next factor that delighted me were the sheer number of refreshingly modern, sharp styles exhibited on the finalists’ models. Many had an ontrend smooth, masculine edge - the idealistic romance of lots of the looks was reflected more in the tones of colour, and the embellished and floaty fashion choices for the models, than in the haircuts themselves. It was quite simply a great night. I loved so many of the elements of the evening, from the gloriously OTT judges’ catwalk introduction, to almost being asphyxiated in the bathrooms, where an abundance of L’Oreal products had been thoughtfully placed. For the second year in a row Nick Grimshaw was on hosting duties, and I think he was a very apt choice - he’s young, relevant to the audience, and brought a fresh, straightforward approach as the evening progressed with no technical glitches, or unexplained pauses - all too often a boring element of award ceremonies. On the catwalk itself it was great to see so many long, healthy looking, flowing manes of hair. These flourishing styles were particularly prevalent in the L’Oréal Colour Trophy STAR Award category. Stand-out looks for me included efforts from Emma Dogerty, Copperfields Hairdressing & Beauty in Perth, Rachel Walshe from BOBS in Magherafelt, and the eventual outright winner - Harriet Stokes, from Not Another Salon in London. Harriet’s long reddish, coppery tresses were indicative of a stand-out trend throughout proceedings, that is, a really eye-catching redhead. Indeed, Nashwhite from Leamington Spa won the coveted Afro Look Award with a style which was akin to strands of fire, with flickering oranges and reds smouldering around the ends of their model’s dark, messy curls. Furthermore, from each of the regional finalists’ areas in the Colour Trophy itself, there was at least one redhead of some description in the running. Kudos too, to The Hair Directory in Inverness, and Petra’s House of Colour in Armagh, who had eye-catching and gorgeous redheads on the stage. Seated as I was with a great view of proceedings, you could see too the difference that a models’ outfit makes to each overall look. Quite literally the clothes maketh the man - and the woman. There were a few blue dresses for example, teamed with some of the redheads, which created such a delightfully strong contrast, akin to a grungy Shirley Manson - it looked fantastic. You could also see that fashion choices are so important to tee off, and frame a look. Equally relevant is how your model walks, and their make-up - but the hair is effectively the crowning glory at this event. Also appearing frequently within the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award finalists looks, I noticed many a soft, shimmery pastel shade stand out. Olsen and Olsen hairdressing in Liverpool, The Gallery Haircutters in Norwich, McGills of Ballycastle and particularly Brooks & Brooks in London, (who eventually took 2nd place in the Colour Trophy overall), produced a selection of lovely, shiny, iridescent tones of pale pink. Contrastingly, at the other end of the colourists’ palette spectrum, another major trend of the

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evening was a plethora of swampy and murky, earthy tones of greyish greens and blues. These looks generally had a bolder shape and haircut, with the eventual Colour Trophy winner Linton & Mac in Aberdeen managing to look both masculine and gamine at once, in a manner reminiscent of the edgy model Edie Campbell. For the most part, all the finalists could be described as pretty autumnal. Even in the Men’s Image Award, the handful of blonde looks featured were cool and ashy. I felt at some points during their catwalk segment, that I was in fact watching a Twilight casting, so often were lustrous longer locks and pale impassioned faces combined. Some of the male looks, like those from Alan D Hairdressing in Ipswich, the Cutting Room Creative in Leeds, and the eventual winner The Social, from Clapton in London, had gorgeously healthy, full tresses - the likes of which I personally can only dream of. Contrarily, many of the men had much shorter, symmetrical looks with exceptionally neat fringes - almost like a very sophisticated bowl cut really. The grand final of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy also featured shows from some of the industry’s leading talent. The Expression of Colour Collective show brought together a team of six leading female colourists in a fabulous showcase, where we were presented with the new vibrant colour range #COLORFULHAIR by L’Oréal Professionnel. The show featured cutting-edge technology fused with carefully crafted colour, and inspirational hair styling. The colour collective team was made up of Siobhan Jones from Headmasters, Skyler McDonald from Skyler London, MJ Farmer from Rush Hair & Beauty, Andria Kaisharis from Fowler35, Sarah Clarke-Lees from SAKS and Grace Dalgleish from Brooks & Brooks. Additionally, the Toni & Guy International Art Team wowed the Battersea audience with a simply stunning second show of the evening, ‘Elements’. Incorporating the world’s natural elements with new technology, experimenting and manipulating hair, the team delivered awe-inspiring avant-garde creations that were beyond strong. It was creative and complex, imaginative, dreamy - and featured the most amazing costumes, giving it an altogether other worldly air. It was essentially hair haute couture on the L’Oreal catwalk. And this final presentation of imaginative excellence for me really summed up the whole night. Long may L’Oreal continue to invest in, and support our home-grown creative talent from every corner of the UK. From Glasgow to Guildford, keep innovating and inspiring, and many congratulations to all the deserving winners. For a full breakdown of all the finalists and further information on the event, including how you can be a part of the competition in 2018, go to www. lorealcolourtrophy.com

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The Afro Look Award: Sponsored by Mizani2017 went to Nashwhite in Lemington Spa.

The L’Oréal Colour Trophy Men’s Image Award 2017 went to The Social in London.

L’Oreal Colour Trophy winner Linton & Mac

Second Place went to Brooks & Brooks in London

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G A I LLE T .


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COCOON Hair:

Christophe Gaillet for L’Oréal Professionnel Photography: Weronika Kosinska

Make-up:

Izabela Szelagowska Styling: Wyza, Dominika Syczynska Production: MKproduction

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OZ COLLECTION Hair: Elise Antoine

Photography: Weronika Kosinska Make-up: Izabela Szelagowska Styling: WaleriaTokarzewska – Karaszewicz  Production: MKproduction & Christophe Gaillet

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I

t’s almost show time! With almost 50,000 votes cast by the public, the competition for this year’s Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards is fiercer than ever. Salons and stylists from across the country have been enlisting the help of their clients to put them into the final and in with a chance of winning one of the prestigious awards on offer. Mark September 10th in your diaries, as the industry’s biggest names and hottest talents descend upon the Marriott

Hotel in Glasgow for a glitzy and glamorous night celebrating the creativity and class in the hair and beauty business. Among the a-list names already confirmed to be attending are Chris Foster, Simon Shaw, Johnny BaBa, the legendary Errol Douglas, Fellowship for British Hairdressing President Karine Jackson, and a DJ set from Lauren Pope. Tickets are on sale now from scottishhairandbeautyawards. com

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SA LON

not a nother salon

IT’S COOL TO BE KIND

I

n classic 80s movie The Breakfast Club, five teenagers who are all outcasts in their own way find common ground during detention and learn to take pride in their differences, discovering that they are all completely original and unique. Now, over 20 years later, the hairdressing world has an equivalent. A salon where you can embrace who you are and throw off the pressures of society - it’s Not Another Salon.

Foundation

A home for misfits, the Shoreditch salon is the baby of ‘boss lady’ Sophia Hilton and describes itself as ‘a hair salon for those bored of hair salons.’ From inception it was always planned to be something distinctive and a little bit quirky, but Sophia didn’t hold ambitions of having a salon until a late night chat with her husband had her thinking about just what her salon could be. “We started to throw around the 64 | SalonNV Magazine


don’t think you can expect someone to care about your brand if you don’t care about them.” While the salon looks exactly like the type of place we would love to work and the team ooze fun and enthusiasm, part of being the boss lady means ensuring the smooth running of the salon. “It’s a balance between being really fun and really tough,” Sophia says. “Each of my staff balance a minimum of two colour changes or colour corrections a day, 2 bleach and 2 balayage plus cuts. Every single team member is fully booked and the pressure and expectation is very high. This is why we need the fun elements, to team away the tension of the intensity of what we do.”

Advice

possibilities,” Sophia explains. “I said to him ‘Oh, I don’t know love, I wouldn’t want just “ANOTHER SALON”’ and he said ‘well, there’s your name’. As soon as I realised it didn’t have to be a salon like the ones that we all see, it hit me that I could really re-invent the salon experience to whatever I wanted it to be. That’s when it got really exciting.”

Inspiration

To bring the salon to life, Sophia drew on experiences from her own past and used them to create a salon that everyone could enjoy. She says: “In my life I’ve always celebrated individuality. I’ve always tried to encourage my friends to be comfortable in their own skin. For years as a teenager i was bullied for wanting to be unique. In more recent years I’ve been contacted by other kids from back in the day that were going through a similar struggle. They told me that through watching me go through what I did, they found personal strength for their own struggles; they saw that I never stopped being me. “I’ve always seemed to be the person that people open up to about everything from their

sexuality or their home problems, because I don’t judge. So when it came to opening a salon, I wanted to extend that ideology which clients really take to and become a ‘no judgment policy salon’. “Everyone has insecurities and everyone struggles with their appearance in one way or another. With the constant expectations of being ‘perfect’ I wanted an environment where people were free to be themselves. Our salon is like a separate little world where the normal rules don’t apply. “You’re safe, everyone in life wants to be safe.”

Atmosphere

Stepping into Not Another Salon is akin to being transported to a simpler, more pleasurable time. For Sophia it’s key to encouraging a much more relaxed vibe for clients. “From a childlike playful intro to the fact we serve coke floats, candy floss and Play Doh, we have successfully managed to take the intimidation out of the salon experience. We believe in regressing our clients back to their childhood, a place where they don’t have to feel the social pressure they feel today.

As Not Another Salon continues to help, inspire, and improve its clients, we ask Sophia what prospective salon owners should bear in mind. She answers: “You really do need need a USP. It’s far more scary to open a salon with a ‘thing’ than without one. Just think about it like this, what’re the press going to write about? That you do a nice blow-dry? That you give good service? It’s just not enough. You HAVE to give them something to work with. Read some marketing books, they are a great help to get your mind set into what it mean to have a brand and not just a salon.” Sophia has no plans to open another Not Another Salon any time soon and is currently focusing on the Not Another Academy which is providing their special brand of education to hairdressers around the UK. Whether you’re a brain, an athlete, a basket case, a princess, a criminal, or any other type of misfit, you might just find that Not Another Salon is The Breakfast Club you need it to be.

“We are proud to say we work hard to provide our clients with a ‘bubble’ of safety and acceptance - a way to escape from the outside world, at least for a few hours. We don’t sell hair, we sell liberation.”

Make-up

Not Another Salon is more than just Sophia of course, and she’s built up a hard-working and equally playful team alongside her. Putting them together is what Sophia considers her proudest achievement at Not Another salon. She tells us: “People talk about recruitment being key, but I’m not sure it is. It’s not that my staff are not special, it’s just that most people are capable of incredible things given the right environment. It’s my responsibility to create a world for them that is a happy one and it’s my responsibility to make them feel safe. I pay them well, and I deeply care about their futures. I

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CHARLIE TAYLOR T he changing w o rld o f hairdressing When Charlie Taylor threw open the doors of her first salon in Perth in 1987 all attention was on London. Charlie had just spent four years working alongside hair maestro Trevor Sorbie at his ultra-cool Covent Garden salon, and had witnessed first-hand the energy and creativity that were electrifying the English capital. “It was the centre of the international hair scene,” she recalls. “Everyone gravitated there.”

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London can no longer claim to be the centre of the industry.

Thirty years on and there is still a tendency to look to London, but its pull has lessened since Charlie first struck out on her own, as salons across the UK and overseas have proven again and again that the English capital does not have the monopoly on talent. “When I came back to Scotland I was determined to build a salon business that was as good as any in London, and I wasn’t alone in that ambition,” says Charlie, who has spent the past three decades juggling her eponymous and hugely successful salon business with continuous overseas travel to educate and perform. “London can no longer claim to be the centre of the industry; not when we’ve seen the best and brightest emerge from all over the country or from overseas. But that’s only one of many changes over the past 30 years. The industry has undergone a revolution and only by embracing and adapting can you keep your business strong.”

when you offer online booking. It’s also a fabulous resource to drive upselling and cross-promotions,” adds Charlie. “We have allocated time and developed the skillset of key team members to manage our online profile, plus we’ve built partnerships with technology providers to keep that profile active and exciting. It’s an investment that is worthwhile.” But there have also been less positive changes among the clientele of many salons. Charlie points to the political and economic uncertainty the country is facing. “Since I launched my business, we’ve been through two huge recessions,” she recalls. “In fact, the year I opened was the year stock markets around the world crashed. But while the papers and politicians keep telling us the most recent recession is over, clients are much more

“Clients will now come in brandishing an image that could have been taken anywhere in the world and ask you to deliver on the expectations created by it,” she says. “We need to work so much harder now to keep up with all the trends from everywhere.” Technology has also changed the way salons communicate with clients. Rather than happening once every eight weeks, conversations are ongoing. Clients want to see and engage with what’s happening in ‘their’ salon 24/7, including what styles and colours the team are creating, and any charity events the team has planned. Salons must be seen to be part of their communities. “The opportunity to drive loyalty through your online presence is phenomenal, especially

She continues: “And it is matched by a new attitude among stylists that education is a must, especially among the youngsters, who want a qualification as well as an education. Few salons succeed these days if they have a team that still thinks two years’ initial training is enough to take them through to retirement. Why would they when the manufacturers have such a varied selection of courses and programmes, enough to suit anyone at any point in their career?” Charlie also reckons the surge in education has been accompanied by an intensely rich period of innovation driven by established manufacturers, entrepreneurs, and inventors. Describing the rate of new developments as ‘mind-blowing’, she points to the startling array of colour products now available that enable stylists and colours to manipulate colour in a way never before possible. Besides the freedom to create and the huge range of hues available, there are new techniques being developed by the manufacturers or their top hair talent that are often launched alongside the new products.

A key change has been the attitude of clients. Thanks to social media, the web, TV, and magazines, consumers’ level of respect towards their hairdressers has risen. It is cooler to be a hairdresser these days than it once was - although many would argue that this sea-change in attitudes has still to improve recruitment of promising young people into the industry. But alongside this heightened respect is an increased awareness of trends and techniques. Charlie warns that to survive stylists and colourists must be up-to-date with what’s happening in fashion and on social media at a worldwide level.

for inspiration or travelling to a course. Now there are hundreds of videos on YouTube, rich with inspiration and expertise.”

wary this time. You can’t ignore that. We’ve responded by adding value to their services so they feel they are investing wisely and we support that with a strong loyalty scheme and regular client communications. I also recently introduced varied prices for the first time so the salon has a sliding scale of affordability, but always with a high-end feel.” Within the industry, innovation and improved standards are having a direct impact on the people and the salons. Charlie believes the biggest change here has been in education. “The levels and opportunity for education are so much higher than they were 30 years ago. There are so many routes to training, from online to big stage events. It is phenomenal. A stylist can go home one day and come back the next fully versed in how to create a really elaborate plait or be ready to experiment with radical colour techniques. Years ago this was done by trial and error, using just a static image

“Development in colour is moving at a staggering rate. It’s so different now to what it was even just 10 years ago, and the manufacturers have really taken on the desire and need for an education programme around any new ranges, which just drives standards up and up.” She points to the tools now available to stylists and colourists. Since she opened her salons, the ability to smooth hair to a mirror shine thanks to irons or keratin straightening products has become ubiquitous. Hair length, hair type and even hair damage can all be changed thanks to the skill of the stylist and the tools they can now use such as extensions, chemical treatments and protein enhancers like Olaplex. “It’s amazing. We are living through incredibly exciting times in this industry and we can illustrate it in full to our clients through social media,” she says. “I can’t wait to see what the next 30 years brings.”


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Showc a se

Live and Unplugged

Hair: Caroline Sanderson and Claire McIntyre

Photography: Richard Miles Make-up: Roseanna Velin

Styling: Desiree Lederer


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Waves and Colours

Hair: Gonzalo Zarauza at Centro Beta Photography: David Arnal Retoucher: Javier Villalabeitia Make-up: Wild Van Dijk Styling: Visor ifashionart

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Editor’s Comment We loved Neal & Wolf’s Alpha Club idea. By far the biggest complaint we hear from regular customers is that they aren’t able to style their hair to the standard the barber managed in shop. Now, we think it should be up to the barber to pass that knowledge on but in shops where you’re only getting 20 minutes per cut it can be hard. This can act as the bridge to keep your customers happy – winwin!

Fudge Headpaint Ash Infusions Kit Colour has shown no signs of going away from the male sector with more barbers than ever seeing customers after bold styles. To help you meet their needs, Fudge has added Ash Infusions to its esteemed Headpaint professional colour line which allows for the creation of bespoke blonde effects. It includes Graphite, a deep gray, Silver Lilac, a soft smoky lilac/grey, and Rose Quartz, a muted pink amethyst. £15.87 + VAT – fudgeprofessional.com

Elemis Luxury Travel Bag Summer is upon us and while you’ll no doubt be sweating behind your chair all summer, as your clients are in getting their pre-holiday cuts why not tempt them with this bag of goodies? Ideal for retailing, it contains everything they’ll need to stay sharp this summer in a slick and stylish bag: shave gel, face wash, moisture boost, body wash, and refreshing gel. £42.50 – elemis.co.uk

Reuzel Shave Cream The latest addition to Reuzel’s grooming range. This rich and super-slick formula gives you a nick-free, smooth as you like shave. Combined with a powerful skin conditioner and plenty of lubricant to help the blade glide effortlessly over your skin, you’ll walk away feeling super-smooth. £19.99- reuzelpomade.com

Neal & Wolf Men’s Collection Products don’t get much more stylish than Neal & Wolf .They’ll look the part in every salon and the quality of the new range means you’ll be dipping into your own stock! With five products each delivering the goods on a specific aspect of male grooming, including STYLE shaping cream, CREATE matte paste, DEFINE moulding clay, DESIGN pomade, and COMPLETE 3-in-1 Shower Gel. Join the Neal & Wolf Alpha Club, an online society tailored to give men tips, advice, and guidance on the products and help make their clients true modern gentleman. £12.95 – nealandwolf.com

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Barber Pro Face Putty Face masks are taking the industry by storm as a great way to achieve extra revenue in shop. Gone are the days when men were scared to be seen as feminine for engaging in treatments, now they can’t get enough! Face Putty is an innovative black peel-off mask with activated charcoal that loosens blackheads and cleanses deep into the pores to remove impurities. £2.45 + VAT – barberpro.com

Uppercut Wash Range Clean up with the new wash range from Uppercut Deluxe. The Aussies are delighting us once again with another fantastic line-up of products to upgrade male grooming. They’re bringing an Everyday Shampoo, Everyday Conditioner, and a game-changing Degreaser to remove even the toughest of product build-ups. We’re loving it. Coming Soon – uppercutdeluxe.com

Schwarzkopf got2b Glued Blasting Freeze Spray There’s no point in creating a masterpiece for your client if it’s going to fall apart in a stiff breeze! A great hairspray is a key tool in the salon, and this effort from Schwarzkopf will keep it rock steady.

Squire Hair The Foam Designed and dedicated to volumising and breathing life into fine hair. Able to boost hair without weighing it down, it’s able to make the hair appear full and voluminous, while at the same time feeling weightless. The non-greasy liquid formulato-foam expands as soon as a small amount is pumped into your hands, and can be layered to build an even fuller look that leaves your hair looking full of life as a result. £11.49 – squirehair.co.uk

£4.10 – feelunique.com

Captain Fawcett Million Dollar Beard Oil It’s a capital collaboration from the Captain and Jimmy Niggles Esq! This unique combination of enriching oils will make your beard feel like a million dollars. Crafted with fresh oceanic scents and earthy resinous notes, topped with an enchanting floral citrus, the winning touch are the flakes of 23 carat gold. £36 – captainfawcett.com

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California’s VTCN BARBERSHOP

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Pope

SANTA ANA


More young people than ever are turning to the Pope at the Vatican for lifestyle advice and help making them look cool. Of course this isn’t the church in Italy, it’s the Vatican Barbershop in Santa Ana where Pope the Barber calls home, preaching the religion of tight fades and inspiring young women that you really can have it all. The Young Pope While Vatican Barbershop has proven a big success for Pope who is also an educator and brand ambassador, she hasn’t had the easiest of rides. Overcoming childhood adversity to realise her ambition of becoming a barber. Pope says: “I was cutting everyone at school and all of my friends. I was scared to tell my parents I wanted to be a barber because my grades were really good and I had a scholarship for basketball. I was later in a car accident which made me unable to walk to a year, never mind play ball anymore, so I told my parents I wanted to go to barber school… something I day dreamed about. I started hair school in crutches and I never stopped after that. It’s been 12 years, the only job I’ve ever had and the best decision I’ve ever made.”

– the aptly named Vatican Barbershop – meaning as well as a full time barber she’s now a businesswoman building her empire. And it’s not easy, but as always her passion gets her through. “It’s a lot of work! It’s great but a lot of work. I’ve been behind a chair my whole career, I feel like it was naturally my next step. I love that I got to hand pick my team. They become your family after a bit. I love the freedom I have to travel and expand the brand. It’s all work, but I’m not afraid of work. It’s quite fun actually.” The Pope’s Cardinals

In the end it was her enjoyment and passion for hair that helped make her choice and it’s something that comes across in everything Pope does. From seeing her in the barbershop or checking out her Instagram posts, you can tell she loves every moment of her career, and she says that’s vital.

“I got lucky starting so young. I’ve worked in plenty of barber shops and travelled the world doing hair enough to know what I do and don’t like. There’s a lot of thick and thin, loss and success and without perseverance and drive, I wouldn’t have been able to make it this far.” After working with others and taking her skills on the road, Pope is now settled in her very own shop

“I only have three chairs right now but it’s perfect and I will be growing the shop organically. I like the tight knit group now though.” While owning Vatican has been a learning curve for Pope, she thinks the fact she had to work her way up to where she is had the biggest impact on her. “I always say the best restaurants are owned by someone who started as a dish washer,” she explains. “Same for barbershops. Start from the bottom. Learn everything you can. Learn everyone’s position. Choose barbers based on character, not skill. Everyone willing can learn how to cut. You can’t learn how to not be a dick. Keep track of money. Promote your business as much as you promote dat ass on Instagram. Most importantly don’t be afraid to take risks. Fail 100 times. Do it, it builds character.”

Passionate Pope

“It’s so important. I’m a fat kid at heart. I don’t do what I don’t like. Fortunately I love hair,” she laughs. “Loving something naturally gives you that extra push. That obsession and curiosity to expand your knowledge and possibilities for that certain subject, hair in my case. There are good days and bad days in this industry. That every day love is kind of what pushes you through.

“Lowski and Butter. The shortest and tallest barbers in the world,” Pope jokes. “Lowski might be tiny but she packs heat. Sickest little female barber in the game. Humble and an amazing person and cutter. Butter: 7ft tall, but a gentle giant and amazing willingness to learn and expand the brand.

Instagram Pope-ularity

Finding the right people to have working around you is key to building the perfect barbershop, somewhere you will enjoy working every day and that will help you grow. Pope believes she’s found the ideal staff for Vatican. She says: “I have a great little team. We’re a family pretty much. It’s quite a blessing being able to choose who you want to be around. I’ve chosen wisely and I take care of them. I make sure they are happy first because if they are I know my customers are well taken care of. “Joannie is our manager. She manages our schedules from behind the chair to booking education and flights. She’s the best. Our lives run ever so smoothly because of her. 

If there’s anyone you want to trust when it comes to Instagram, it’s Pope. With over 70,000 followers she’s a social media phenomenon, keeping her fans coming back for more with posts that showcase her personal life and her barbering with high quality photos and a sense of personality. She says: “I’m just myself. I don’t try to be anything I’m not, I just try to fit as much of my life onto social media as I can. I think people appreciate that nowadays. Just be yourself. Cut the bullshit and hope people like the cause!” So it’s something barbers should take more advantage of? “Yes! It’s free marketing! It’s the place to build your brand. Instagram is basically your online portfolio. My advice is to put what you want in your chair on your instagram. You want more men’s hair, put more men’s hair on your page. You want to travel more? Be more places. It’s simple. But don’t try, just do it. Take good pictures, put out good content. Put out a lot of content. Be consistent. That’s about that.” It’s certainly worked for Pope and the Vatican Barbershop with both growing in popularity by the day. The future looks bright and Pope agrees when we ask her what we can expect to see coming up. “Great things,” she says with a smile. “I just wanna bring a good vibe to the industry. I’ve been steady working on a few projects that will bring everything together. Lots of collabs, a lot of events. This little baby is coming to life for sure.”

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july/aug 2017 Training Dates Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

10th July

1 Day

The Bespoke Bridal Collection

Heather Robertson Hair

Glasgow

£150.00

07584 019257

10th July

1 Day

World of Igora

Schwarzkopf Professional

Dublin&Cork

€ 70.00

01142 278000

10th July

1 Day

Session to Stylist

GHD

Edinburgh

£150.00

0845 3301133

14th July

1 Day

Tantruth

Salon Services

Aylesbury

£60.00

01296 427247

16th July

1 Day

Blowdry Masterclass

GHD

London

£200.00

0845 3301133

17th July

1 Day

Endless Colour Creativity

Schwarzkopf Professional

Dublin

€ 290.00

01142 278000

17th July

1 Day

Session to Stylist

GHD

Edinburgh

£150.00

0845 3301133

17th July

1 Day

Salon System - Gellux Workshop

Salon Services

Dundee

£65.00

01382 223494

18th July

1 Day

Salon System - Gellux Workshop

Grahams Hair Products

Newcastle

£65.00

0191 237 0073

18th July

1 Day

Pre-bonded and Micro-ring Course

Beauty Works

Manchester

£549.00

0843 289 5198

19th July

1 Day

Tantruth

Salon Services

Glasgow

£60.00

0141 882 3355

24th July

1 Day

Colour Expert

Schwarzkopf Professional

Belfast

£100.00

01142 278000

25th July

1 Day

Curl Styling Secrets with Zoë Irvine

GHD

London

£150.00

0845 3301133

25th July

1 Day

The Ultimate Tape Course

Beauty Works

Manchester

£499.00

0843 289 5198

27th July

1 Day

Salon System - Colour & Correct

Capital Hair & Beauty

Carlisle

£99.00

01228 544134

27th July

1 Day

Salon System - Colour & Correct

Capital Hair & Beauty

Bournemouth

£99.00

01202 763 442

31st July

1 Day

Express Styling

GHD

London

£150.00

0845 3301133

3rd August

1 Day

Tantruth

Salon Services

Manchester

£60.00

0161 3440163

7th August

1 Day

World of Igora

Schwarzkopf Professional

Belfast

£70.00

01142 278000

7th August

1 Day

The Complete Micro-ring Course

Beauty Works

Manchester

£549.99

0843 289 5198

14th August 2 Days

Cutting

Schwarzkopf Professional

London

£250.00

01142 278000

14th August 1 Day

Blonde on Blonde - Level 1

Schwarzkopf Professional

Dublin

£150.00

01142 278000

18th August 1 Day

Salon System - Colour & Correct

Salon Services

Exeter

£99.00

01392 278870

21st August

1 Day

Colour Expert

Schwarzkopf Professional

London

£150.00

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