Andy Dawson Best Barber
The barber stars of the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards 2019
F E AT U R E S AUTUMN 2019
E D U CAT I O N
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Alex Azurmendi | Centro Beta
David Arnal RETOUCH
Javier Villalabeitia MAKEUP
Visori Fashionart HAIR
Alex Azurmendi @ Centro Beta HAIR ASSISTANT
Laura Irure PRODUCTS
A collection by Paco Lรณpez
#INFLUENCIA FรGARO AWARDS BEST MEN COLLECTION 2018 6
David Arnal HAIR
Paco Lรณpez @ The Barber Shop by Paco Lรณpez
A collection by Alexander Colucci
JACK OF ALL FADES
Tia Lauren Lloyd HAIR
Liam Oakes HAIR
James Beaumont & Robert Braid
Liam Oakes HAIR
James Hill, Dan Toloza & Adam Hicks
Javier Ávila HAIR & MAKEUP
A collection by Rodelas
RODELAS (Adrià Regadera, Víctor Gutiérrez, Adolfo Vicente and David Fernández) ART DIRECTOR
Sergi Jasanada MAKEUP
Mónica Martínez FASHION
Ángel Cabezuelo HAIR
Jordi Pérez | LaBarberia de Gràcia
Not just for the weekend
thedevilshairco.com exclusive to www.thebarberworld.com
Issue one of BarberNV came out in 2015, it’s mad to think we’re now 25 editions in the game. To celebrate we gave BarberNV an updated look. As I write this, sat at my desk, we’re all still a little tender from the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards and...well...I guess it’s the sign of another successful SHABA. Inside this issue we’ve interviewed all the barber category winners from #SHABA19 (from pg26). Best Barber winner Andy Dawson even gave us our incredible cover image for this issue. This issue marks the beginning of a regular feature giving barbers and barbershops around the globe the shine they deserve. This month we’ve gone Down Under to bring you interviews, collections and insight from some of the coolest barbers Oz has to offer (from pg60). And with Christmas inching closer, we’ve put together a guide to some of the best products to give you and your colleagues Secret Santa inspiration (pg46 and 47). Before signing off, I want to take a moment to thank all of the barbers, educators, brands and backers who have featured in the pages of BarberNV—we wouldn’t have made it this far without you. All news, product launches, collections and tips can be sent to myself at firstname.lastname@example.org. Thank you for your continued support.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Simon Shaw & Alan Beak at #SHABA19
NEWS In brief & from the Fellowship
SHABA Interviews with barber winners
OFF–CUT STEP–BY– STEP
XMAS GIFT GUIDE
ANDIS STEP– BY–STEP
NEW TO E–CHAIR
BARBERNV ISSUE 25
IN–THE–CHAIR With Josh O’Meara–Patel
Founder | Joanne Reid
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Columnists | Chris Foster, Joe
without the permission of the publisher.
Mills, Sam Wall & Simon Harvey Published by | Gallus Print & Digital Media, 1st
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News In Brief
A BETTER CLASS OF CUTTING
he first annual Peaky Blinders Festival took over Birmingham last month—with the MILLS X PRIMARK barbershop becoming a 1920s time warp for the occasion. Primark’s flagship retail store gave its men’s department a Peaky Blinders makeover, with the barbershop taking on the aesthetic of a post–war gangster’s paradise. The team dressed in tweed waistcoats, penny collar shirts and baker boy hats—all from the fashion store—while creating looks made popular by the BBC TV series. Barbershop owner Joe Mills explained, “We’ve been transported back to the bygone era and our team really got into character! “Our menu was taken over by the Shelby brothers and we offered the Tommy haircut—an undercut with short, back and sides—and the Arthur, a disconnected undercut with lots of length on top and swept back. “Peaky Blinders has been one of the most stylish series to influence men’s fashion on the TV for quite a while and has been perfect for barbers as male clients have been asking for the military–inspired haircuts and got more men interested in historical hairstyles. “The team got into the spirit and shot their own images based on the TV programme. The week has been a lot of fun and great for the MILLS brand in Birmingham.” ■■ Check out Joe’s column on page 77.
WORLD’S OLDEST BARBER PASSES AWAY Anthony Mancinelli, was still working as a barber when he was 108–years old has died in New York. The Italian–born man worked as a barber from the age of 12, until earlier this year. Guinness World Records credited him as being the oldest working barber in the world! In 1930, he opened Anthony’s Barbershop in Newburgh, just north of NYC, and owned it for over four decades—he later worked at other barbershops.
YOUNG PEOPLE, RENTERS AND THE SELF–EMPLOYED FACE WORKING TO 75, SAYS NHF/NBF A leading think tank, the Centre for Social Justice, has proposed raising the state pension age to 75 from 2035. Although the government has rejected the idea, the very fact that it was seriously considered shows there’s mounting concern that people are not saving enough for retirement as life expectancy increases. The retirement age is already going up from 65 to 66 next year, to 67 in 2026 and to 68 between 2044 and 2046. When the state pension age of 65 was introduced in the 1940s, life expectancy was 66. Nowadays, men and women can expect to live into their 80s or longer, but pensions are not keeping up with the rising cost of an ageing population. The problem affects millennials, especially women, renters and the self–employed. The Resolution Foundation says a third of millennials will be renting all their lives, so young people also need to save enough to continue paying rent into their 80s and beyond. Many women go part–time to take care of children and to save on childcare costs, but this means their pension contributions will decrease or even stop altogether, making it even harder to increase their retirement savings. Hilary Hall, NHF/NBF chief executive, said, “We surveyed 400 of our members recently and found that almost one in six had no pension provision apart from the state pension. Even if they have a pension in place, they’re planning to delay retirement for as long as possible to keep earning. Unless they can increase their pension savings, the reality is that many people in our industry will be working well past
THOUGHT ABOUT YOUR PENSION?
of self–employed people pay into a pension scheme.
ONE IN 2 OUT OF 3
of 23–38 year olds who work for themselves do not have any form of pension.
FIVE of those earning between £10,000 and £20,000 per year believe they will never be in a position to retire.
the age of 65. For young people, especially women, renters and the self–employed, retiring at 75 may not be as far–fetched as it first seems.” ■■ Statistics from Office of National Statistics, Fidelity and Scottish Widows.
BLUEBEARDS REVENGE AND PANASONIC PARTNERSHIP
ANDIS ANNOUNCES UK BARBER SCHOLARSHIP WINNERS ®
ollowing its launch at Barber Connect in June, the search for two lucky winners to embark on a career–changing learning experience with Andis is over. After sifting through hundreds of entries to the Andis Nation UK Barber Scholarship programme, judges determined that Martin Kuspal from Leicestershire and Charlotte Clark from Hampshire demonstrated the passion, enthusiasm and desire to reach the pinnacle of their career, as well as exhibiting a determination to become qualified. “At Andis, we believe proper education is the key to success,” said Bruce Bock, senior manager of communications for Andis. “We are proud to support aspiring barbers like Martin and Charlotte who share our passion for men’s grooming and learning. “We’re excited to help them take their skills to the next level!” New mum Charlotte, who volunteers her time giving free haircuts to disabled adults, she impressed judges with her determination to qualify and one day open her own business. After saving for three years to pay for training she is naturally excited about her success. “I’m so overwhelmed and can’t wait. Barbering is where my heart is at and I’m determined to get to the top. This is an incredible opportunity for me and I’ll give it 100%!” With a similar approach to helping others, moving to the UK after tough times and dedicating his time and energy to his barbering career, Martin also stood out to the judges. “When I found barbering, I found myself,” he says. “It was the only thing that made sense and it has transformed my life. “Now, this amazing opportunity will help me reach a new level so I can excel in the salon and to help homeless people feel and look better.” Arrangements are in place to start their training with the highly– respected barber and educator Mike Taylor, who was keen to express his delight too. “I think we’ve uncovered two rising stars and I’m so proud to be a key part of their journey to qualification and success.” Martin and Charlotte are due to receive five days of in–person training and assessment, as well as Andis products and tools to assist in their qualification and beyond. ■■Taking place at the Mike Taylor Education academy in Dorset, the Andis Nation Scholarship covers haircutting, beard trimming, shaving, consultation, pattern work, reception and photoshoot. Find out more at andis.com and miketayloreducation.com.
After months of careful planning, leading men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge is proud to announce a new strategic partnership with Panasonic Professional Grooming. The new partnership encourages barbers and hair professionals all over the world to Be Different from the competition; by combining distinctive barber–grade styling products with clean cutting clippers. On this new partnership Bradley Wicks, head of marketing and communications for The Bluebeards Revenge, said “We’re very excited to be working alongside such an innovative and world–renowned brand like Panasonic. Like us, they are committed to providing barbers and professional stylists with premium tools, allowing them to push the boundaries of their creativity. Our team can’t wait to get their teeth into this partnership and we’re all very excited to see it progress.” Ian Griffiths, category manager for the Panasonic Professional Grooming range, added, “Speaking on behalf of the team at Panasonic, we are delighted to begin working alongside The Bluebeards Revenge. From exciting planning discussions that have taken place over recent months, we are certain that this will be a mutually– beneficial partnership that really brings something fresh to the industry.” With joint plans already in the pipeline for the rest of 2019, fans of the brands are encouraged to stay tuned to discover what happens when barber– grade styling products combine with clean cutting clippers. ■■ For more info, follow @thebluebeards and @panasonicprogrooming on Instagram.
News In Brief
YOUNG SWANSEA ENTREPRENEUR IS A CUT ABOVE
contributed to the success of the business in only a few months of being open. “We’ve been unbelievably busy since the very first day we opened, which has been really incredible. I wanted to diversify the business from the start to ensure we’re offering a range of services to suit different customers.” Jonny started his business with the help of Big Ideas Wales, the youth entrepreneurship service in Wales. Big Ideas Wales is part of Business Wales and is part funded by the European Regional Development Fund through the Welsh Government. The service is aimed at anyone between the age of 5 and 25 who wants to develop a business idea. “Big Ideas Wales has been a great help, especially my business advisor Miranda Thomas, who supported me through the process of setting up the barbershop. It’s a scary experience to open your own business but knowing I have the support of Big Ideas Wales made it easier. Between this and several business courses I’ve attended, I’ve developed a better understanding of business owning and it’s made me feel more confident with the whole process.” Jonny’s sights are firmly set on expanding Jonny Blades across various locations and he’s already started looking at opening a second branch in Swansea. “My ultimate dream would be to franchise Jonny Blades across the UK, but for now my attention is focused towards growing the business locally and giving back to the community. I’ve also sponsored Morriston Youth Football Club and at Christmas time I’m planning to give out free haircuts to those who may need one but can’t afford it.” Miranda Thomas, Big Ideas Wales business advisor, said, “Jonny is a hardworking young person who has made a great success of his business over a very short space of time. I’m confident his ambition and business acumen will see Jonny Blades continue to be a success for years to come and I’m looking forward to seeing what the future holds for him.”
21–year–old barber from Swansea—who opened his own salon only three months ago with support from Wales’ entrepreneurship service Big Ideas Wales—has had such a successful launch he is already planning another branch. Jonny Hanford opened Jonny Blades in Morriston after several years of hairdressing and barber training and is already attracting high–profile clients including Swansea City footballers Kees De Boer and Brandon Cooper. Such is the success of Jonny Blades since opening, the young entrepreneur is now taking on two apprentices to cope with the demand and add to his current team of three barbers. As well as haircuts, Jonny Blades offers services including hot towel shaves, men’s waxing and threading, facial treatments and sunbeds, which Jonny believes has
■■ For more information about Jonny Blades, find Jonny Blades Barber Shop’s page on Facebook. ■■ Has this inspired you to kick start your business idea? Visit bigideas.wales to get started on your dream.
HOW WELL–PRICED ARE YOUR SERVICES? CHANGES IN BARBER SERVICE PRICES FROM 2012–2017 Haircuts
HOW OFTEN DO YOUR CLIENTS VISIT THEIR BARBERS & WHAT FOR?
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
(prices in £)
Cut Throat Shave
Recent price trends in barbering may not be as you think—and do you know what your are clients looking for?
2.8 Clipper Cut
3.0 Wet Shave
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Hot Towel Shave
(prices in £)
3.5 Dry Cut
Wash, Cut & Finish
24 24 24 31 38
BRIEF COMMENT 26
Initially, prices of barbershop treatments appeared to align with the explosion in popularity of barbers—the earlier years probably saw steep price drops because of an increase in the sheer numbers of barbershops, resulting in competitive pricing. But with the focus now on quality, the price trend appears to be reversing. Also, clients use beard treatments more frequently than hair and styling, so that could certainly factor into pricing considerations for your shop.
BARBER PROJECT TACKLE TEXTURED HAIR Irish barbering megastar and Andis global educator, Hayden Cassidy was the latest expert to lend the Fellowship’s Barber Project her male grooming expertise.
s the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Barber Project team continues their year, it was over to their latest guest mentor Hayden Cassidy, to share some of her valuable insight on techniques and tricks for working with diverse textured hair. The Andis global educator and barber expert was handpicked by team leader, Jonathan Andrew, to give the team a practical understanding of working with Afro and Asian hair types. Hayden demonstrated two looks for the team, starting with an Afro model. She walked the team through working with this texture, explaining how freehand cutting was the best method to achieve a uniform finish to the look. Working freehand with clippers and finessing with scissors, Hayden created a soft fade with a rounded top to flatter the model. The second model had very straight Asian hair, which Hayden worked with to demonstrate a skin fade to textured crop, with length left on top. As she worked with the models, Hayden shared with the team, her incredible journey through barbering and stage work. She credited the numerous barbers who mentored her, topping up her self–taught skills, which have seen her become a social media tour de force on Instagram and YouTube, as well as enjoying a career educating around the globe. “Seeing how Hayden puts her mark on each cut was really inspiring,” says Sarah Morrissey from Sarai Hair. “She is an amazing barber and I got loads from today— particularly about how to create a perfect fade on different hair types; something which I wanted to perfect. Being able to watch and ask questions was so beneficial. I found today so inspiring!”
BARBER PROJECT TEAM 2019 ■■ Ainsley Brown F&M HAIRDRESSING ■■ Luke Hawkins THE MARVELLOUS HAIR CO ■■ Portia McVinnie KJM SALONS ■■ Sarah Morrissey SARAI HAIR & BEAUTY ■■ Blayre Turnbull URBAN HAIR & BEAUTY HIGHHOUSE ■■ Rob White NASHWHITE ■■ Jack Williams JACK ROBIN WILLIAMS SALON
Apollo 2 Elite with Classic heelrest: historically timeless, eternally peerless.
For nine years, the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards has celebrated the best of the Scottish hair industry.
SHABA FEATURE CONTENTS 28// Best Barber
With #SHABA19 being the biggest and best yet—and all the headaches have died down—all five of the five barber category winners speak to us about their careers, goals and of course their SHABA wins.
30// Best Barber Colourist
Make sure to mark Sunday, September 13 2020 in your diaries, it won’t be long until #SHABAX is announced and the excited can build all over again.
34// Best Barbershop
31// Best Wet Shave 32// Best Apprentice Barber
[main image] Superstar barber judge Alan Beak with #SHABA19 gala host and global artistic director of Wahl, Simon Shaw.
Until next year. IMAGE BY BRIAN HAYES
I like helping people—you can change the way people feel about themselves and how they present themselves with a haircut.
Best Barber ANDY DAWSON
the likes of BarberNV [and it is] something that I would be impressed by if I saw it.
HOW DID YOU GET YOUR START IN BARBERING?
At only 18–years–old, Andy Dawson of Menspire, Aberdeen has been crowned SHABA’s Best Barber. Andy has only been barbering for two years, and also came second in the Barber of the Year competition at the Scottish Hair & Beauty Show earlier this year. He built a great relationship with Menspire which allowed him to open the Aberdeen store and grow as a professional. The results are plain to see in his SHABA entry. HOW DID IT FEEL TO BE CROWNED AS BEST BARBER?
It was crazy, it’s been a crazy year. Opening the shop and doing a lot of work with the [Menspire] team going to different events, between Barber Connect and Pro Hair Live, and this is the second competition I’ve won. It’s topped off a very busy, productive and successful year.
HOW DID YOU GO ABOUT CREATING THE IMAGES FOR YOUR WINNING COLLECTION?
We have a photo studio at the Menspire Academy where I created the images. I found a model from the street down there and literally went in and just made use of our photographer Jordan [Ammam]. A lot of the work Menspire do has inspired the way I cut hair. The bold images that stand out and come off the page, that’s what I wanted to create. Something that was quite street, edgy and would jump off the page if it was to be in
I started cutting hair two years ago. It just started as a hobby when I was in school and then a year ago, I turned down five university offers to pursue barbering. I’ve been full–time since May last year, and that’s when I delved deeper into Menspire, before that I worked in Menspire but not as intensely in it as I am now. After I left school I wanted to go into it, so I moved down to St Albans where Menspire originated from, I was going to move down after I trained with them but we decided to open up a shop in Aberdeen, and I became a partner in that with Josh and Sam.
WHAT DOES WINNING THE AWARD MEAN TO YOU?
It’s fantastic. It presents the hard work that goes into it and it helps to build the brand in Scotland. It also helps show others you don’t need years upon years of experience if you’ve got the right education you can be as good as the guys who have been cutting for years. For me, it’s about staying humble, working hard and growing every day.
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO YOUNG BARBERS LOOKING TO ENTER COMPETITIONS LIKE SHABA?
I would say, go in with no expectations for yourself. Just try your best and do something you’ll be proud of and if you win, you win. For me, it’s more a celebration of the industry, rather than a competition as such. It’s great to win, but it’s also to come together and produce all these great pieces of work we can share on social media and promote each other and grow our industry.
WHAT IS THE ESSENCE OF BARBERING TO YOU?
It’s a release, it’s an expression for me. I like helping people and you can change the way people feel about themselves and how they present themselves with a haircut—I love having a positive impact on the people around me. I’d like to pass on the way I’ve been mentored, that’s what would make me the happiest. The ultimate goal would be to become part of the Menspire Education Team, bring that to Scotland and improve the standard up here. Students travel worldwide to learn under our educators and it would be great to be part of that and give back what I’ve received.
WILL YOU DEFEND YOUR TITLE NEXT YEAR?
I’m not sure, I haven’t thought about it yet. I’m just enjoying my win while it lasts and making the most of the success. Who knows, maybe I’ll come back to see if I can defend it or see if one of my other colleagues can claim it.
IMAGES COURTESY OF JORDAN AMMAM
A19 in #SHAB rd... one wo STIC! FANTA
SHABA Best Barber Colourist MEGAN ANNIE STOCKFORD
A FLASHFLOOD OF
slowly made its way to us in Aberdeen. Celebrities started getting it done and we’re just starting to get more people in Sovereign wanting colour changes.
Megan, much like many of SHABA’s barber category winners is only a couple of years into her barbering career. Which goes to show the incredible talent showcased by the next generation of barber superstars. Starting her career as a hairdresser, Megan made the switch when Sovereign offered a position that was just too good to pass up. BarberNV spoke with Megan to find out how it felt to win, and talk about her dream colour projects.
WHAT WOULD BE YOUR IDEAL COLOUR PROJECT?
Pink and yellow is something I’ve wanted to do for a while. I just love the yellow hair trend just now and not many guys are getting it done—I’d love it see it on a more male canvas.
HOW DID IT FEEL HEARING YOUR NAME CALLED AS THE WINNER?
I entered last year and didn’t win, so I thought I wouldn’t this year because I was up against amazing competition. To get called was a shock, but it felt absolutely amazing. Even just being there with the whole team, the atmosphere was so uplifting.
HOW HAVE THINGS BEEN POST–SHABA?
Everyone’s been really lovely. I’ve had a couple of my competitors message to congratulate me, people from other shops have been commenting on my work more and it’s nice to know how supportive the industry is and there were no hard feelings. Everyone was just so happy to be a finalist and be supportive of others’ work.
IS IT YOUR HAIRDRESSING BACKGROUND THAT INSPIRES YOUR COLOUR WORK?
Yeah, but the placement is more fun for men’s hair because you have to keep it on the masculine side and be very careful where you place the highlights—it’s re– sparked my passion for colour. All the clients I’ve had in for colour have been great and willing to let me be in control.
HOW WAS IT PUTTING THE IMAGES TOGETHER?
I had free rein with all my models. So it was about how I felt on the day and they told me just to go with it, I tried my best to put looks together with their skin tones and the whole shoot was just an amazing buzz.
WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR FAVOURITE COLOUR TRENDS?
A19 in #SHAB rd... one wo ING! UPLIFT
I like the platinum look right now, within reason, I like doing crazy colours—pink on guys has been catching on recently and I love it! Trying to get models for last year was difficult, while this year everyone was more up for it and let me do my thing. I think social media and Instagram is where I started noticing men being more courageous with their hair, and it’s
WHAT’S ONE IMPORTANT PIECE OF ADVICE YOU CAN GIVE ABOUT COLOURING?
I would say patience. When it comes to bleaching, it’s remembering to pre–tone and making sure you now your theory before you go diving straight in.
WILL YOU BE DEFENDING YOUR TITLE NEXT YEAR?
I hope to! I plan to do more education next year and keep my techniques up–to–date for both men and women. IMAGES BY RICHARD FREW
SHABA Best Wet Shave DANIEL CLEAVIN
Memories are Made of this Daniel Cleavin’s shop, The Cleavin Barber Club, calls back to a time of male simplicity. Everything is vintage, from the genuine antique furniture, to the Dean Martin songs filling the ears of patrons. This aesthetic makes his shop the perfect environment for hot towel shaves. The success of the Cleavin Barber Club experience allowed Daniel to open his second shop in August this year—proof that his vision of the barbershop experience and skills is gripping Aberdonians. HOW DID IT FEEL TO WIN THE TITLE OF BEST WET SHAVE?
Honestly, it took a couple of days to kick in. I didn’t expect to win it at all, so the surprise was brilliant.
WHAT DO YOU THINK GOT YOU TO WIN THE TITLE?
I’m not sure, that’s what baffles me. I just went about my day continuing, as I always do. I like to keep the experience in the shop quite masculine and basic. We tend to stay away from steamers, massage oils etc—we keep things very traditional, so it’s a hot towel shave and a cold towel down. The shop’s a nice place to be down to the music, we play 1950s stuff and we get comments throughout the whole experience and not just on the shave.
WHAT DO YOU THINK CAUSED THE RISE IN POPULARITY OF THE WET SHAVE?
It’s always been something I’ve been a fan of doing, but it wasn’t that common when I started barbering. Once we opened the shop, around this time last year, we found the style of the shop brought in a lot of wet shaves. It’s an entirely traditional experience from the moment you walk in the doors and sit in the chair, and the majority of people come in for the whole hog. I’d say IMAGES COURTESY OF DANIEL CLEAVIN
we go through around 50+ wet shaves in a week, which is great, maybe not for the back like. [laughs]
WHAT IS THE ESSENCE OF A GOOD WET SHAVE?
The closeness and the delicateness of it. A lot of people are under the impression you apply a lot of pressure, but if you’re relaxed the clients are relaxed and it’s a much better experience and everything just pieces together.
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO YOUNG BARBERS ENTERING SHABA?
Barbering is very personal and you get more and more of your own clients to vote for you, so I suppose it’s down to themselves keeping the clients, keeping the experience, keeping it all good. You need to keep it up because you can’t just try for one week to get votes in, and then let it go.
WILL YOU COME BACK TO DEFEND YOUR TITLE?
Yeah, it’s pushed me to do it because I never expected to win at all. I was just happy to be there as an experience. I missed out on the Best Design, I spotted that after it closed but the shop’s up for a local award for best interior with Press & Journal.
A19 in #SHAB rd... one wo G! EXCITIN
SHABA Best Apprentice Barber MARTIN DESTA
It was class to get the recognition. It’s a job where I wake up in the morning and want to do it—not dreading going in.
irst picking up a pair of clippers at 16, Martin Desta, who is just 13 months into his career has become the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards’ Best Apprentice Barber 2019. “I bought clippers and started cutting my brother’s hair,” he says. “It got to a point when I didn’t enjoy my old job, I was a lifeguard, and my mum said I should do a nighttime course in barbering.” After learning the fundamentals of barbering at Glasgow Clyde College in Cardonald, Martin got his first choice of apprenticeships at one of Glasgow’s most decorated barbershops, Rebel Rebel—who are celebrating their 10th anniversary this year. While Martin couldn’t attend the awards—he was flying to Rome the following morning—his friend Tony Murray, also of Rebel Rebel and a big influence on Martin, took to the stage on his behalf to accept the accolade. However, once he heard of his victory, Martin raced down to snap a few pictures with his trophy, and barber category super– judge Alan Beak. Despite his clear ability and commitment to the craft, Martin didn’t expect to come out on top, as he tells us, “Before I applied for the SHABAs, I wasn’t even cutting on the floor as an apprentice. I thought it might be a bit early but I just went for it. “It was class to get the recognition. It’s a job where I wake up in the morning and want to do it—not dreading going in.” Growing up, like so many kids, Martin was heavily influenced by football, and in particular footballers’ haircuts—lest we forget Beckham’s mohican or Ronaldo’s mid–noughties mullet. “When I was six, seven or eight, [while] playing football I was always looking at footballers to see what haircuts they had. Every Saturday morning, before football my dad would always cut my hair, so I’d always have a new
haircut, new style or new line in my head.” Like so many current–gen barbers, Martin topped up his skills watching tutorials on YouTube, and the extra graft he put into honing his abilities paid off. “The thing about barber apprenticeships is that it’s more creative and you can do it as quickly as you want to. You can do it in three or four years, like I was told, but I was going home after work and doing a haircut most nights of the week. “Whatever we were learning that week I would go home and practice. If it was scissor–over–comb and my mates wanted a skin fade, I’d do it after practicing what we were learning.” When we ask him if he would jump into Best Barber for #SHABAX and what his career aspirations were, Martin tells us he wants to follow in the footsteps of Rebel Rebel’s other master barbers. “I want to be the best overall barber,” says the Best Apprentice Barber. “Everyone in Rebel Rebel who’s a master barber, they’ve all got a hairdressing background and I feel they can put them both together and make something class.” Martin has already received a lot of recognition for his win, from friends, family and customers alike. He’s also gotten a few new names off the back of his SHABA victory. We can’t wait to see where Martin Desta takes barbering, and especially his future SHABA journey.
IMAGES COURTESY OF MARTIN DESTA
[top left] Alan Beak with Martin Desta at #SHABA19; [others] Desta’s entries for awards
A19 in #SHAB rd... one wo NITION RECOG
SHABA Best Barbershop HARD GRIND
After a testing year, Hard Grind, Dundee, came out as the Best Barbershop, a well– deserved accolade for one of UK barbering’s strongest and most recognisable brands. Hard Grind founder, Colin Petrie, talks winning big at the SHABAs, the essence of Hard Grind and the importance of caring for your staff. HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE CROWNED AS SHABA’S BEST BARBERSHOP?
I think it’s still sinking in if I’m perfectly honest. From day one we’ve never set out to be the best at anything. It’s always been about being the best we can be and doing the best we can, and providing the best we can for our families. It wasn’t about me—far, far from it. It meant more after everything we’ve been through and to come out the other side and win Best Barbershop was the perfect way to end the year. The euphoria on their faces got me in the back of my throat and it still does when I watch it back.
WHAT DID IT TAKE TO BUILD HARD GRIND TO WHERE IT IS NOW?
It’s about the team. Without them it would be me, sad, lonely and bouncing off the walls. The whole family thing, people look at it and go, ‘oh yeah, whatever’. A lot of people use the term on Instagram these days and they think it’s a fad, but we genuinely live by that. It’s hard to believe it, and until you’re part of it. We’ve got a guy coming from Berlin and we’ve sourced him a flat, a sofa, pots and pans and we’re picking him up from the airport—once you’ve signed that deal it’s the same as if you’ve been here for the last 10 years. It’s not just about Hard Grind. Take away the accounts, cutting hair, the apparel line and the coffee shop, and it’s about juggling everyone’s goals, making sure they’re happy and I’m fulfilling my end of the bargain—which is to give them everything!
WHAT’S THE ESSENCE OF HARD GRIND?
It’s our camaraderie. It’s the spirit of our service. I genuinely think we’re unlike anything else. There’s plenty of places to get a good haircut, the industry is incredible right now, but it’s the spirit we have—it’s unbreakable and we’ve proved that with the shit we’ve been through this year. You just have to look at our reviews on Facebook, or comments people leave about how we make them feel when they come in our store. From the minute customers walk in the shop, to the minute they leave, it’s their time. We go 110 per cent towards the experience, the spirit we have and our family values makes us Hard Grind.
You have to lay it on the line for your staff, you can’t just walk away and leave them to it.
WHAT SORT OF ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ASPIRING BARBERSHOP OWNERS?
You have to lay it on the line for your staff, you can’t just walk away and leave them to it. If you want staff you have to care. Saying that’s barber one, that’s barber two... they all make a living for me and I pay them a wage and that’s it... that doesn’t work in this day and age, you have to go above and beyond. If someone’s having a down day that can affect you. If they’re struggling with something, even if it’s personal, it will affect them and it will affect the service, the customers and the shop—you have care about them from the very top to the bottom or you don’t stand a chance of keeping the good staff. The staff turnover in the industry is bad and that’s why, they can’t find the right mentor or person that can cater to them.
HOW DID IT FEEL TO HAVE THE OUTPOURING OF VOTES FROM CUSTOMERS?
That was the best part for us. I was really blown away by it. It’s one thing for us to say that we’re the best, but without even once posting a link, so to have that was such an amazing feeling.
WILL YOU BE DEFENDING YOUR TITLE NEXT YEAR?
I dunno if anyone’s done it yet or not. A lot of people might win it and think, ‘that’s it’, but I’m very tempted. It would nice to hold the trophy again and prove it wasn’t a mistake, and we deserved to be there among the best.
IMAGES COURTESY OF HARD GRIND
HAIR & FASHION
[clockwise from left] Jay out and about; at work; Patrik and Jay in London
THE BARBER MOVEMENT MARCHES AGAIN Before his introduction to barbering, Jay Adams aka Jay Dabadman, describes himself as a tear–away that was given the chance at a better life through the craft. Years on, Jay is filming for a Czech TV series to give young success–hungry kids hope for a better future through the industry that gave him so much.
ou might ask what place a barber has in filming reality TV, but Jay isn’t new to creating compelling content and The Barber Movement is far from a vanity project. Try not to think of Geordie Shore or any of the similar reality TV nasties— The Barber Movement is a positive force. In the series Jay will be taking six Czech youngsters from zero to hero, as they learn a craft that could take them anywhere. After emigrating to Australia, Jay created the first in his Barber Movement series, entitled ‘The London Barber Movement’ (LBMTV). Since 2015 he’s been honing this vision, creating ever–evolving web content over on his YouTube—Dabadman Inc. “Seeing people with a smile on their face who have been through hard times is my payback. I just want people to be happy in life, because it’s hard to be happy in life.” While he says nothing is set in stone, Jay hopes to watch his students and current barbers move up through his four barbering career steps to eventually open their own shops. Jay’s shop, King of Kings, offers a commission structure where after six months, staff have the option to put 10 per cent of their wages aside and after two years, Jay will match that to open a chain of the barbershop alongside them. “I’m giving them the chance to own a barbershop with my guidance. I could take someone from this programme from absolutely nothing and in three years they could have their own little barbershop—then hopefully they’ll do the same and help the next generation. That gives them incentive, not just in the beginning but right the way through their career.” In July, Jay, along with his star student Patrik—who has never left the Czech Republic—and his filming crew took a trip back to the UK to catch up with one of Jay’s previous students and his mentor. “It’s also to introduce me to the Czech audience because I am a nobody, I’m just a barber. It’s to build a backstory and to see the experience through the eyes of this young Czech kid who is hungry to do great things and there’s many hungry Czech kids who want to do great things
for the barber industry but they haven’t got the facilities or the availability of resources to progress—that’s what I’m trying to give. “It’s a big risk for me to put all this money into filming and production. Four days in the UK with two cameramen, one sound guy, myself and one of my students is going to cost around £7,000— all for around 15 minutes of footage. It’s a complicated process filming for reality. It isn’t a simple case of turning up and shooting what you see. Like a good haircut, it’s the fine details that make or break the deal. “The idea is to give Patrik the UK experience but also for him to see where he could be in 10 years because the guy we’re going to see was in the same position Patrick is in now.” The Barber Movement will have a ten– episode run with 30–minute timeslots on Czech television. Jay admits between learning a new language and adjusting to the Czech way of life, setting up the show hasn’t been a cake walk. “Regardless of if it was going to be on the TV, we were going to film it as a web series. We’ve got the contract and the deal
is sorted, now it’s just the niggly bits like how we can include and give exposure to sponsors. Maybe I can’t put a five– second commercial in the middle of the programme because they have different rules and regulations. For example, we’re sponsored by a few hotel chains and I’ve become the face of De’Longhi coffee in Europe—who are the main sponsors of the show.” King of Kings has become the foundation for not only the show, but also a platform to grow his circle and help as many people as possible. The Barber Movement isn’t short of entertaining segments. Jay walked us through all the show’s elements, from teaching his prospective barbers, to a Kitchen Nightmares–styled segment in which Jay helps out struggling Prague barbershops, to training with professional Czech fighter Pete Pino Ondruš—who is preparing Jay for a fight at the O2 Arena later this year. There’s a lot to be excited about with this project. We can’t wait to see The Barber Movement on our screens, and it’s safe to say we’ve already got our fingers crossed for a second season!
IMAGES COURTESY OF JAY ADAMS
JAY’S FOUR BARBERING CAREER STEPS
1 2 3 4
Start as a STUDENT
Develop to a BARBER
Advance to a SENIOR BARBER The student will become the MASTER BARBER
I could take someone from absolutely nothing and in three years they could have their own little barbershop—then hopefully they’ll do the same and help the next generation.
A Visual Cutting & Styling Process by
Danny Abbott (co–founder of OFF–CUT) HAIR
Callum Francis Regan @callumfrancishair PRODUCTS
Uppercut Deluxe Featherweight MODEL
Location OFF–CUT Barbers, Camberwell, London
A collection by Edge Academy
Wendy W Smith MAKEUP
Jessica Varela HAIR
Anthony & Gloria EDGE at EDGE Academy
XMAS GIFT GUIDE CREATE YOUR XMAS NV It’s been a very quick year and it almost pains us to say that Christmas is upon us. You’ve heard the shop banter so many times ‘it starts sooner every year’, but it’s good to get a head start on Crimbo shopping. As well as providing great in– store sale opportunities for your barbershops, they can make great gifts for friends, family or even your Secret Santa. The bonus to all of this is you won’t have to lumber anyone with the dreaded Lynx deodrant set.
TRIUMPH & DISASTER Stash Box
Based upon an old apothecary set, the Triumph & Disaster Stash Box is a one–stop shop of grooming gold that makes an ideal gift for a modern man. Stocked with a tube of Old–Fashioned Shave Cream, a genuine Silvertip Synthetic Fibre Shaving Brush, Rock & Roll Face Scrub and Gameface Moisturiser.
HEIST Men’s Hair Dryer & Styling Kit
Heist’s high-powered ionic hairdryer engine dries hair quickly and puts you firmly in control of style. The kit also comes with a quality Kent boar bristle brush to assist with styling and a concentrator tip to direct airflow. The canvas travel bag and leather cord mean the Heist kit is easy for use in the barbershop, at the gym or on the go. Advanced ionic technology, high power 2,200W engine and a UV light.
REUZEL Dopp Bag Sets
It wouldn’t be barber Christmas without Reuzel and the Dopp Bag Sets are the perfect stocking filler for you seasonal scumbags. Never be without your favourite Reuzel products with this handy wash bag, complete with Holland’s finest pomade. This gift set comes in five different variations—Reuzel Blue, Pink, Clay Matte, Extreme Hold and Fibre! Treat yourself or your favourite scumbag this Christmas.
THE CAMDEN WATCH COMPANY Camden x Thy Barber
Want a watch to match your cutting? The CAMDEN x THY BARBER timepiece was devleoped by The Camden Watch Company in collaboration with Frank Rimer. Inspired by the colours, textures and stories from the barbering world, this watch is designed by Frank to be worn by anyone who truly appreciates the aesthetics of the barber lifestyle.
Mesh £165.00 | Leather Strap £145.00 camdenwatchcompany.com BALLSY The Sack Pack
The Sack Pack contains a trifecta of men’s grooming products to take care of your family jewels. This pack has everything you need to smell like the champion you are. The Ballwash, the Nut Rub Solid Cologne and Sack Spray all help protect your skin and leave you smelling un–ball–ievable!
$36.00 ballwash.com AMERICAN CREW Beard Grooming Kit
This limited edition set has everything men need to keep their skin and beards in peak condition. A very thoughtful and useful gift. Beard & Skincare Wash Bag Gift contains: ■■ Beard Foam Cleanser ■■ Beard Serum ■■ Beard Balm ■■ All–in–one Face Balm – SPF15
KENT SALON Styling Set
Christmas has come early thanks to the Kent Salon Christmas Styling Set. The set includes a selection of top Kent Salon Brushes, including the KS04 Dressing Brush, the KS07 Paddle Brush and three of the Ceramic Brushes the KS10, KS11 and KS12. Not only do you get some super–styling Kent Salon brushes, but the kit also includes four sectioning clips and a water spray bottle—all contained in a stylish travel case!
EDITOR’S CHOICE This month’s picks from our editor is a versatile mix of great products covering a whole grooming routine.
ELEVEN AUSTRALIA I WANT BODY Texture Spray
The I WANT BODY Texture Spray is a lightweight finishing hairspray combining powder and liquid to create incredible dry texture. Simply shake well and spray where needed to maintain body and texture.
BARBER PRO CBD Oil Infused Mask
This is the world’s first CBD oil sheet mask designed specifically for men. The reparative mask helps calm and heal skin from redness, pollution damage and blemishes.
UPPERCUT DELUXE Shake N Rake Styling Powder
Shake N Rake is the newest cool addition to Uppercut’s styling range. Remarkably versatile, this reworkable product adds volume to thin hair and texture with a natural finish. It’s almost too easy.
HASHTAG ORGANICS CBD Hemp Oil Tincture
The CBD oil from Hashtag Organics is available in various strengths to suit any user. The added CBD crystals are a very high purity at 99.5 per cent and is sustainably cultivated using no pesticides, insecticides or herbicides.
£39.95—£174.95 hashtagorganics. co.uk
ANDIS ProAlloy Fade
The cool and quiet ProAlloy Fade sees the addition of a fade option to one of Andis Company’s most popular tools. The result? One of the closest–cutting, coolest– running tools on the market that looks as sleek as it performs. Powerful, fast and highly–efficient, this is a must for fans of fade.
VICTORY BARBER & BRAND Wash
The revolutionary one–step WASH is packed full of botanicals and activated charcoal to cleanse, condition and detoxify your hair and beard without stripping away natural oils and leaving you with puffy, dried–out hair. This gentle wash is the daily detoxifying cleanser that won’t leave you ‘high & dry’.
TAKARA BELMONT Inova Exa
The essence of high–class style and performance, the Inova Exa commands attention and it delivers on every service level. With 360º lockable rotation and full motorised functionality, ease your client into the perfect position at the press of a button and programme the most popular configurations.
HAIR The very best products for your whole hair care regimen, from wash right through to styling.
RUGER. Tea Tree Shampoo (1 ltr)
The Tea Tree Shampoo from RUGER. is best used to treat scalp conditions such as dandruff, and to stimulate new hair growth by clearing out old skin cells from the follicles. Giving a tingling feeling, the minty smell is too fresh to pass up—just watch make sure you don’t get any on the family jewels.
REDKEN BREWS Mens Silver Shampoo
Redken Brews Silver Shampoo gradually reduces unwanted yellow tones in gray and white hair. This purple shampoo will tone away brassiness to leave your hair a true cool silver or grey.
SEVEN POTIONS Salt Texturizing Styling Spray
When walking out of the house in the morning, a distinguished man must have hair that reflects his stature—dull, flat or frizzy locks won’t cut it. Instead, outsmart your hair and give it life with Seven Potions’ Salt Texturizing Spray and never again become discouraged with the way you look. Wonderful for use on all hair types and lengths, constantly fussing over your hair is a thing of your past.
TOPPIK Hair Thickener
Toppik Coloured Hair Thickener is a cosmetic solution for hair loss. This spray–on formula is designed to disguise areas of thin or thinning hair, scalp show–through, and even root re– growth between colour appointments.
ILLUSTRATION FROM VECTEEZY.COM
MR MUK Brutal Hold Semi–Matte Mud
For rugged styles that go the distance, this low sheen, strong hold mud offers enduring texture and intense definition for today’s urban adventurer who likes to play rough. The mud’s consistency and unique humidity– resistant formula make it easy to apply and re–shape. 100% water–soluble for an easy wash out.
THE DEVILS HAIR CO Rock ‘N Rolla Extreme Hold Hair Mud
Formulated by a UK barber, these products are the result of years upon years of industry knowledge. Give The Devils Hair Co a try as the quality speaks for itself. Not just for the weekend!
MORGAN’S Gentleman’s Grooming Gift Set
This gift set has everything needed to make a clean and shiny gentleman out of you or your clients. The set comprises of Morgan’s Shampoo, Body Wash and Hair Cream. To top it off, all of the products boast Morgan’s signature bergamot, jasmine, sandal and patchouli scent.
BEARD Check out our pick of products to pamper your beard and chin DEAR BARBER Shave Care Kit
The Shave Care Kit from Dear Barber is the ideal product for the clean– shaven gent and for anyone seeking a truly luxurious and upmarket shave experience.
CAPTAIN FAWCETT Horned Beard Comb with Leather Case
The beautifully English– made Ox Horn combs are made from keratin, the same protein that forms your hair, ensuring it will glide through your hair effortlessly without snagging, creating static or damaging the cuticle.
CLOCKFACE BEAUTY Ho Leaf & Bergamot (30ml)
We all know that a well– groomed beard demands more than precision shaving routines. This essential ingredient can help condition both hair and skin, promoting a lustrous—not to mention comfortable—beard. Consisting of a complex blend, led by ho leaf and bergamot, combining to form a nourishing, natural treatment to soothe bristly skin and stimulate deep– down regeneration with powerful antibacterial and anti–inflammatory action. Meanwhile, the oil is quickly absorbed by hair to give beards shine and a softer, smoother, more enriched texture.
MVRCK Cooling Aftershave
This soothing post– shave treatment works to hydrate skin and help reduce irritation and razor burn. The antioxidant– rich barley seed extract nourishes skin, while an agave citrus scent awakens and refreshes. Can be used for pre– and post–shave for the smoothest shave ever.
Custom designed insurance cover for both barbers and their premises. Developed for you, in association with the British Barbers Association. Call today for a quote: Freephone 0300 303 4101 or Text us: 07921 370 113 Follow us cowensbarbersure barbersure PHOTOGRAPHY
FURNITURE & TOOLS All the best hardware, hand–picked by our team. WAHL Cordless Detailer Li
Introducing the new Cordless Detailer Li as part of Wahl’s 5 Star Series—a specialist range of powerful, dynamic clippers and trimmers created for barbers, stylists and hairdressers who demand the best. Perfect for sharp outlines and shape–ups, the Cordless Detailer provides 100 minutes of cutting from a 45–minute charge.
£131.99 wahl.co.uk ANDIS Pro Foil Lithium Titanium Foil Shaver
The Andis ProFoil® Lithium Titanium Foil Shaver is the go–to shaver for ultra–close fades and shaves. With a soft–grip housing for even greater control and comfort, a robust yet quiet rotary motor running at 9,400 RPM for maximum performance and with up to 80 minutes of runtime from a single charge, this compact, lightweight yet powerful shaver delivers exceptionally close, smooth, irritation–free results. Individual gold titanium hypoallergenic foils house two rows of cutting blades engineered to maintain their shape and its centrally located power switch makes it ideal for both left and right–handed users.
TAKARA BELMONT Aubrey Barber Station
The all–in–one Aubrey barber station with its integral Majolica Porto basin, thermostatically–controlled water system and traditionally–inspired design delivers supreme comfort for grooming and shaving services. Customise your way with three veneer and Staron worktop options for unrivalled front and backwash services, as ample storage for tools and products ensure clutter–free style!
STEVEN CAREY Professional, Super–Motor Hair Dryer
London stylist, Steven Carey has launched his super–motor hairdryer with a combination of ionic and ceramic technology. The Professional, Super– Motor Hair Dryer provides consistent heat that lessens the damage to the hair and helps to create a less–frizzy blow dry whilst adding shine. The timeless design flushed in gloss white and edged with rose gold cuts a striking form.
UKI Multi Razor
The UKI Barber Collection presents this exciting and innovative clipper with four functions: scissors, thinning, razor and clipper. It is lightweight and the perfect tool to get a scissor–finished haircut look.
DAYLIGHT COMPANY Gemini Floor Light
Flexibility meets stability and portability, weighing in at a tiny 2.4kg the Daylight Gemini neatly folds and packs into its carry–bag. If you’re looking to up your social media game, look no further than the Gemini, which has a grip to hold your mobile phone in place for videos. Delivering high contrast and accurate colour matching, whilst keeping cool. With its slim structure and upscale design, the Gemini is lightweight yet stable, but still flexible enough to hold any position.
THE KEYS TO YOUR FUTURE T
HD Cutz is a busy man. When he’s not cutting the hair of top flight athletes like Usian Bolt or in the shop, you can find him on Instagram inspiring his 321k followers. Now Sheldon, alongside City & Guilds and MHFed is set on redefining barber education.
his isn’t a simple task, but one Sheldon has taken in a bid to improve the educational standards of barbering students the world over. Teaming up with City & Guilds and Adam Sloan’s MHFed, Sheldon hope to use his unique blue–tick status on the ‘gram, as well as his industry expertise and positive mental attitude to show the world the importance of proper certification. Education is the key to unlocking your greatest potential. If you think of education as an Oyster card, without having certain criteria, doors and the subsequent journeys will be totally barred. This is a gap Sheldon looks to fill, first setting his eyes on his native Caribbean. “People in Caribbean culture don’t have a lot of certification, and we can bridge those gaps and get every qualified in the industry. We have a global reach with barbers all over the world who want to be a part of the brand or what to learn from us. City & Guilds and the MHFed have revolutionised education in the UK, now setting their sights globally. But it isn’t just for the sake of better education. Horrified by what’s happening in society, Sheldon is joining Adam Sloan on the frontlines to give young people passion, confidence and a route to a better life. “The government needs a scheme to help kids get into a good profession doing something they love. We know we can help a lot of good kids get off the streets with the academy and can almost guarantee getting them a job— that’s helping society. “I know people who have talent, but they don’t believe in what they can do. If you go back to when I started, I
[clockwise from left] HD Cutz clients with Sheldon, including Raheem Sterling
was stuck thinking ‘I can’t be like them’. It took barbers taking me under their wing to give me that confidence.” Before Mr HD was set on his current career trajectory, before the celebrity clientele, before the Business Insider and Sky News features, Sheldon was like any other young barber. First arriving in the UK at 16–years–old, Sheldon started working in barbershops, but says he didn’t have the confidence he shows today. “I was an underdog and nobody really trusted me to cut their hair, but the rest of the barbers gave me confidence, and that confidence really nourished me and allowed me to take my career to where it is today. I watched the other barbers, top barbers, and I took a little bit from everyone around me.” These are far from empty words as Sheldon, through his platform, looks to influence the next generation not just with education and certification, but
through leading by example. “There’s a responsibility to those people whose eye you’re capturing, and I think you have to be positive. My aim is to inspire and motivate the next generation of people who need to be motivated, and I think it’s my responsibility to create that positivity and take people over that line.” And while in the Caribbean, Sheldon will be living up to this responsibility. He will be heading to barber schools across the islands to give aspiring students masterclasses in fading techniques, shape ups and grading techniques. “Basically, you know education is key, so I’ll going around loads of schools across the islands to prove to them and show them what you can do with great education. Representing City & Guilds and MHFed, I can show them what they can do, how far they can reach and how far I am so they can see and aspire to be just like that.”
IMAGES COURTESY OF SHELDON EDWARDS
We want to get people qualified and certified on a global front
A collection by Edge Academy
Brendan Grimley @brendangphoto HAIR
RYAN.CO Barbershop @ryanco_barbershop STYLING
Ian Wrightson @ws_workshop MODELS
Brendan Grimley @brendangphoto
Joey Scandizzo PHOTOGRAPHY
Andrew O’Toole MAKEUP
Kylie O’Toole STYLING
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+44 (0) 1389 518662 SOCIAL MEDIA
The global barbering scene has witnessed seismic growth over the last decade. In a new running feature we travel the barbering world, to
talk with the most talented barbers pushing the industry every day. For our inaugural feature, we check in with some of Australiaâ€™s best barbershops for a lesson in what makes the Aussie scene unique.
ILLUSTRATION FROM SHUTTERSTOCK
A BETTER CLASS OF CUTTING
the #ryancostandard T
ucked away in the back streets of Brisbane’s vibrant Fortitude Valley, RYAN.CO first opened its doors in June 2017. More than just the idyll modern barbers, Ryan looks to foster a hotbed of talent and preserve a thriving barbering scene. “I wanted to create a space and environment that made every client feel like they had discovered a hidden barbershop made exclusively for them,” he tells BarberNV. “This is the kind of barbershop that’s mainly found through word–of–mouth or a referral from a friend in the ever growing RYAN.CO community.” The RYAN.CO community isn’t a loose concept for the Aussie barber. After spending over a decade in the industry, Ryan is passionate about creating a platform that offers barbers the opportunity for career progression and financial stability. “Notoriously, the barbering and hairdressing world loses far too many talented young people to other industries that have more lucrative opportunities and have been made to feel they should get a ‘real profession’. “As I expand, I plan to continue developing what I hope will one day be an industry–changing business model, that can keep more of these ambitious and talented people in our industry.” Ryan fell into the industry in 2006 where he began his apprenticeship at a unisex salon. Growing up on the Sunshine Coast, Ryan’s family visited Paula, the owner of
Barbershop owner, Ryan Reed spent time cutting in Notting Hill’s Carter and Bond at Woodhouse, and after connecting with so many diverse and inspirational figures developed a vision that would see him elevate the standard of the Brisbane barbering scene.
RYAN’S TIPS FOR PUTTING TOGETHER AN EDITORIAL COLLECTION Ryan, whose Winter Collection is featured in this edition of BarberNV, gave us his top tips on putting an editorial collection together. “You need to have an experienced photographer and solid stylist to help coordinate the overall look and feel of the shoot. If you have this in place, it allows
you to fully focus on the hair to make sure you nail it. Always have your scissors in one pocket and favourite product in the other, as you’re probably going to see something you’re not 100% happy with whilst shooting. I get inspiration from lots of things. Colleagues past and present, watching films, from the streets to music festivals, other barbers via social media and of course my BARBERNV subscription!” [He’s a charmer]
Making people feel good is pretty rad, and never gets old.
a salon who would cut their hair. “After hearing me whinge about my job at McDonald’s, she must have felt sorry for me, because she offered me a trial as a ‘tea and tidy’. Straight away, I warmed to the social vibe and creative environment in the salon. It took me a little while to take the plunge and start my hairdressing apprenticeship.” More than a decade on, Ryan’s approach to barbering is, as he describes, ‘pretty simple’. He is consistent, offers change and challenges his clients to be bold with their looks—an attitude that has won him a loyal, fun and respectful clientele. “I’m a proud barber. It has given me so much, I’ve met so many amazing people, clients and colleagues.” Clearly a subscriber to the idiom ‘variety is the spice of life’, Ryan loves to mix things up, and coming from a hairdressing background has allowed him to experiment and form his signature through multiple products and techniques.
“I’m a big fan of making sure my clients have all the products they need and know how to recreate the look at home.” Building local and global communities is important in barbering and this is as true down under as it is in Europe and North America. The Brisbane– based barber gave us his views on the relationships he has formed with his kinsman and contemporaries. “The Australian barber scene, like everywhere, is going off! We recently attended the inaugural year of the Australian Barber Expo and it was awesome to connect with our industry peeps. We want to be at the top of our game and there are some quality standards to help us in keeping it real.” But more than anything, Ryan is concerned with creativity being in the foreground of our great industry, and how this will lift up everyone. For Ryan, investing your time and love into the craft is the key to success in barbering.
IMAGES COURTESY OF RYAN.CO
RYAN’S GO–TO PRODUCTS Functionality is always key, but pushing creativity is the only way to break new boundaries. Recognising this, Ryan is a fan of using multiple products to get full control of his cutting and sectioning, while selecting products will obviously depend on the clients’ individual needs. “For example, to create consistent texture within unruly hair types I can’t go past Baxter of California Grooming Cream. I also love BYRD Texturizing Surfspray to add volume and texture into limp sparse hair.”
I have cut many celebs over the years but to tell you the truth the biggest names in my clientele are my regulars—the ones I have been cutting month after month, some for 15 years now. They are the clients I regard as my VIPs
ALL HAIL THE KINGS Kings Domain, Melbourne cuts a unique shape, with décor influenced by the timeless aesthetic of the English gentleman’s club and the rustic appeal of a hunter’s cabin, all while delivering exceptional value and of course exceptional cuts.
o-founders Joey and Aaron worked together for eight years before seeing the opportunity for a high-grade male grooming establishment in Melbourne. In June 2013, Kings Domain was born as a creative oasis for Aaron Chan and four-time Australian Hairdresser of the Year, Joey Scandizzo, and of course their clientele. “I like to provide my client with fussfree quality haircuts that are versatile, easy to manage and grow out well,” says co-founder Aaron. Kings Domain can be summed up in one word—quality. From their depth of experience, the shop interior, products and their focus on providing a friendly and welcoming service—everything about the brand screams quality. “I have cut many celebs over the years,” Aaron continues, “but to tell you the truth the biggest names in my clientele are my regulars—the ones I have been cutting month after month, some for 15 years now. They are the clients I regard as my VIPs.” Despite the pair’s experience, they
admit Australia doesn’t have the history or age-old barbering culture as other parts of the world but times, dear readers, they are a–changing. “It [Australia] has a youthful energy that is gaining momentum like you wouldn’t believe,” Aaron says. “The industry has not only caught up with the rest of the world, but it is starting to lead the way. “It’s [Australia] so far away from everywhere else! Haha, nah, although we are all so connected with social media these days, I feel like the barbering industry here is really creating and defining our own unique style.” Are you looking to start a life in Australia? Armed with their valuable experience in the hair industry and boasting an impressive list of celebrity clientele including Harry Kewell, Elle Macpherson, Anna Wintour, Sofia Ritchie, Scott Disick, Solange Knowles and Paris Hilton, Aaron and Joey can offer a few excited words of advice for you on your potential new adventure. “Don’t wait, get over here and get in contact with us—Australia is a great place to work and live and the barber scene here has exploded over the past few years,” says Aaron. “Australia is the place to be,” exclaims Joey. “Come on over and be a part of the growing barber scene!” What are you waiting for?
IMAGES COURTESY OF JOEY SCANDIZZO / KINGS DOMAIN
elbourne’s Paragon Studio bridges the gap between the barbershop and the salon, creating a unique male grooming space that leaves a lasting impression. The bright, modern and open space is a minimalist’s dream, with one side of the studio being entirely glass, natural flat just floods the space. Paragon owner, Tim Rennie—whose mum was a hairdresser—was around hair from a young age. As soon as he left school, Tim took a barbering apprenticeship while working at the busiest shop in Melbourne at the time. It was always his dream to own a shop one day and in November 2017, Paragon was born. Tim has a very simple barbering philosophy. Like many, barbering is about how someone feels leaving your shop and being able to creatively flex in your everyday career. He tells us about his approach and individual style. “Just taking every day as it comes and running with what I have in front of me,” he says. “A balance of traditional barbering and contemporary hairdressing incorporating current trends into my cuts, while maintaining a suitable style for the individual.” Building collections is something we’re seeing more in modern barbering. Tim and his Paragon comrade, Tori Gill, take their inspiration from other creative industries such as photographers, fashion stylists and artists. Even the smallest thing can become a well of inspiration. “We haven’t yet put a team collection together. Tori, one of the girls at the shop, did a collection last year for Australian Men’s Hairdresser of the Year 2019. The team all helped out on the day and it was a great result as she was a finalist for the Australian Hair Fashion Awards and Hair Expo awards. We are doing a shoot next month that everyone is getting involved in and we will each do a model. Keep an eye on our Instagram to see the pictures.” On the subject of the future, both his own and the future of the industry, Tim looks to push himself and the
Work hard, never stop learning and always aim high. team even further, and this goes for the young barbers of the world too. “Work hard, never stop learning and always aim high. Don’t be afraid to go out there and do your own thing. There are so many barbershops out there now but if you stay passionate and be original and you really want to succeed then you will. “I think the Australian barber scene has an amazing community, there is a lot of support and mateship that goes around regardless of what state you are in,” he says. “There are so many heavy hitters here and it seems to be inspiring a lot of people to get into the industry.”
IMAGES COURTESY OF PARAGON
SAVE THE DATE
★ LIVE ★
in collaboration with
23 RD –24 TH FEBRUARY 2020 MANCHESTER CENTRAL
SID SOTTUNG 68
Andis Clipper Comb
Andis Supra Li 5 Clipper
Andis Slimline Pro Li Clipper
ACHIEVE A HIGH–TECH LOW FADE WITH ANDIS
Andis UK Educator Sid Sottung takes you through his step–by–step process for creating this high–tech look. E
Analyse the client’s head shape, hair density and colour to ensure you establish the correct height for the fade. It’s critical to do this step first to ensure the low fade suits the client.
Begin by measuring one to two fingers above the ear, then start cutting following around the head shape while keeping under the occipital bone. Use a cordless clipper like the Andis Supra Li 5 Clipper and an Andis Clipper Comb, and proceed to use the clipper–over–comb technique. Keep in mind that your comb needs to be held at a sharp 45–degree angle. By using this technique, you will establish your guideline for the low fade.
Upon completion of clipper–over– comb, establish the baseline for the fade. Using a closed blade (0 length) work in a flicking motion up into the baseline, going anywhere from 0 to 3mm up into the hairline.
Then, use an attachment comb and continue to work in a flicking motion, meeting the guideline to ensure it blends in. You should then switch to a 1.5mm attachment comb with open blade and start blending with the corners of the clipper blade. Next, use a closed blade and complete the blend.
Finish by outlining using the Andis Slimline Pro Li trimmer for a crisp, clean look.
See Andis products at barber & beauty suppliers across the UK including Sally Beauty, Barber Blades and Styling Products UK. IMAGES COURTESY OF ANDIS
THE NIGHT OF THE CLIPPER JACK THE CLIPPER
In 1888, Jack the Ripper bloodied Whitechapel’s cobbled streets, sowing terror across London. More than a century later, Jack the Clipper— founded by Master Barber, Halil Ismail—is hell– bent on keeping gents trim and proppa.
hen Jack the Clipper first arrived in London, they were the pioneers of the capital’s flourishing barber scene. Trading for over 50 years, the brand were the first barbers of Turkish heritage to bring a level of meticulous detail the modern man cannot live without. It’s no wonder the brand features in some of the coolest men’s lifestyle mags. After finalising the name, the goal of Jack the Clipper was to create a brand that would stick in people’s minds and a story that fits with London’s history and the Ripper’s legacy. “Using Jack the Ripper as inspiration, we went about creating a dark and twisted aesthetic that reflects the gruesome story. We are even part of the official Jack the Ripper tour and our Bow Lane branch has won multiple awards for its unrivalled store design.” Leaning into their serial killer namesake, Jack the Clipper is a barbershop that offers something altogether different. Built as a space for men to escape to and offer them a different standard of experience, skill and personality. Additionally, they were the first barbers to open seven days a week with longer hours. Barbershops in London have to stand out, especially in a choc–a–block market—offering hot towel shaves and ear flaming isn’t enough. And Jack the Clipper stands tall, not simply through their memorable aesthetic or their attention–grabbing name, but the quality and consistency of their service. “Where we stand out from the rest is the quality and consistency of the experience. Barbers can offer okay haircuts for cheaper than a couple of pints all day long and some people will go to those barbers, but if they want an experience with some of the best barbers Europe has to offer, they need to experience Jack the Clipper.” Jack the Clipper has big plans to expand business by adapting and adopting new tech, while staying true to their outlandish and quirky brand. “People like the work we’re doing and that’s why we have been at the top of London’s barbering game for so many years but we aren’t ignorant to the changing world we live in. We will take Jack the Clipper wherever it needs to be taken to stay at the top of the game for many years to come.”
Locations 4 Toynbee Street, Spitalsfield, LONDON, E1 7NE 47 Bow Lane, LONDON, EC4M 9DL 178b Brick Lane, LONDON, E1 6SA 250 Cabot Square, Canary Wharf, LONDON, E14 4QS 5 Shepherd Market, Mayfair, LONDON, W1J 7PD
IMAGES COURTESY OF HALIL ISMAIL
A TRUE GENTLEMAN’S REFUGE TRUEFITT & HILL, TORONTO
Established by William Francis Truefitt in 1805, Truefitt—becoming Truefitt & Hill in 1935—is the oldest barber brand in the world and set themselves up as the official barbers to the British Royal Court.
ver 200 years on from the founding of Truefitt & Hill, the brand now has locations in Toronto, Beijing, Canberra, India, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Kuwait and Bangkok. Truefitt & Hill Toronto owner, Dom Sicilia speaks to BarberNV about his years with the brand and its regal history.
HOW DID YOU COME TO OWN TRUEFITT & HILL?
Twenty–five years ago, while on a business trip with Kevin O’leary—aka Mr. Wonderful, from Shark Tank—we visited Truefitt & Hill in St. James. At the time Kevin and I were in the Software Industry and expanding our Learning Company Business to the international market. My childhood friend and now business partner Rick Ricci had asked I visit this shop known to be the oldest established barbershop in the world and hairdressers to British royalty. I was so intrigued with the shop I negotiated to buy the North American rights and open in Toronto, Canada. After many months of talks we finally made a deal and here we are.
HOW DOES IT FEEL TO OWN THE OLDEST BARBERS IN THE WORLD AND WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO YOU?
It’s a real sense of pride and it comes with responsibility to maintain the history and service level that comes with this honour. We want to ensure we continue the tradition without cutting corners. With this comes the privilege of carrying the ‘Royal Warrant’ from British Royalty as Court Groomers to the Duke of Edinburgh.
steam towels. A true gentleman’s refuge from today’s fast–paced lifestyle.
WHAT DO YOU THINK IT MEANS TO BE LUXURY?
Luxury means exceptional service, like a Michelin–rated restaurant, providing consistent quality products and services in a well–adorned traditional space.
WHAT SETS TRUEFITT & HILL APART FROM OTHER BARBERSHOPS?
From the exceptional quality and decor of our barbershop to the bow ties and white shirts. Our barbers are experts in men’s grooming, straight razor shaves, hand–over– scissors haircut and precision clipper work for the new upcoming business profile.
WHAT SORT OF CLIENTELE DO YOU GET AT TRUEFITT & HILL?
Truefitt caters to the businessmen of the financial district; lawyers, accountants stock traders, political leaders and sports professional—the well–groomed man.
HOW HAS BARBERING CHANGED SINCE YOU BEGAN?
Over the years many ‘new’ types of barbershops have opened—hipster type shops. The more things change the more we keep things the same. Although our barbers are versed in all modern cutting techniques with clippers we also pride ourselves by the hand–over–scissor cutting format. Our straight razor shaves are done using coco butter and Truefitt pre– and aftershave creams with nine
WHAT IS YOUR FONDEST MEMORY OF TRUEFITT & HILL?
My fondest memory is meeting the Duke of Edinburgh at Buckingham Palace in celebration of our 200–year anniversary. What an amazing experience.
IMAGES COURTESY OF DOM SICILIA
Location Brookfield Place, 161 Bay Street, TORONTO, ON, M5J 2S1, Canada
JOHN’S RECOMMENDED COMBO My personal favourite combo is Salt Texturizing Spray and Styling Clay. For our bearded friends, I definitely go with beard balm and wax for soft and nicely shaped beard.
Salt Texturizing Spray, £14.97 Hair Styling Clay, £14.97 sevenpotions.com
100% NATURAL, VEGAN AND CRUELTY–FREE
At Seven Potions, we have a great range of products but...
WE ARE MORE. MUCH MORE THAN THIS. Seven Potions began in 2014 when, after paying attention to male grooming trends for years, John Bouridis decided to create the ethical products he wanted without any compromise. His previous job as a supplier for a cosmetics chemical company allowed him to understand the demand for male–specific hair and skincare products, and his research into formulating those with safe and natural ingredients. And as he tells BarberNV, “It didn’t take long before everything took its natural course and three years later, Seven Potions was born.” WHAT IS THE GOAL OF SEVEN POTIONS?
To become the male grooming standard, by providing fine gentlemen natural products with no compromises on safety, quality and performance while remaining true to our environmental responsibility.
WHAT IS THE STORY YOU’RE TELLING WITH SEVEN POTIONS?
We’re a brand dedicated to fostering confidence through men’s grooming. We manufacture products for men who want to improve the way they look and feel when using Seven Potions. Men who care about their grooming regime are conscious about environmentally responsible choices. That’s what Seven Potions is all about and this is what our customers expect from us.
HOW DID YOU GIVE SEVEN POTIONS ITS OWN UNIQUE VOICE?
We are proud producers of natural, crueltyfree products that don’t compromise on performance. We go the extra mile when it comes to being among the first plasticfree men’s grooming companies. Customer experience is something we take very
seriously as we want our customers to feel proud and special from the moment they place their order until they open the box, use the products and decide to recycle our packaging. It goes without saying that we do put great importance on the feedback we receive and judging from our experience so far, listening carefully to your customers’ thoughts works wonders.
WHAT SEPARATES SEVEN POTIONS FROM OTHER MALE GROOMING BRANDS?
For Seven Potions, everything is about respect—towards our customers, our employees, our competitors and the environment we live in. It is with this in mind that we formulate and manufacture our products and we’re very proud to offer our customers an inspiring offering.
WHAT IS THE FORMULATION PROCESS LIKE FOR SEVEN POTIONS?
To tell you the truth, it’s long and sometimes frustrating. It can take up to a year from inception to finding a working formulation and that’s before any necessary safety testing. Testing takes 12 additional weeks and if that’s not successful—it’s back to the drawing board. But this is the price we have to pay for quality and safety. Normally, we receive feedback from our customers on what kind of product they’re looking for and based on this we begin with the formulation design.
WHAT CAN SEVEN POTIONS OFFER TO BARBERSHOP OWNERS?
Besides our generous product range, we offer product availability at all times, marketing material, educational use of our products, after sales support and, most importantly, a respectful and honest partnership.
DO YOU HAVE ANY EXCITING LAUNCHES COMING UP?
We’re cooking a big surprise, or better yet, surprises for the New Year. It’s going to be the year with the most product launches since our beginning. Also, apart from new product releases, we’re planning on participating in a few barber exhibitions like we did in the past.
WHAT PRODUCTS DO YOU HOPE TO BRING TO THE UK MARKET IN THE FUTURE?
We aim to be the one–stop shop for every gentleman.
IF YOU COULD SUM UP SEVEN POTIONS IN ONE WORD WHAT WOULD IT BE? Gentlemanliness
SIMON HARVEY on
THE BIGGER THE HAIR, THE CLOSER YOU ARE TO GOD W
hat do you get if you mix a King, a French mistress and a horse? One of the most iconic hairstyles on the planet. After falling from her horse in 1680, King Louis XIV’s mistress, Madame de Fontanges, arranged her hair after she fell and the King demanded she kept the style—if she refused, the alternative was most likely a beheading, another on–trend look of its time. This led to the style known today as the Pompadour, made famous by rock stars and Hollywood actors of the 1950s. After scrawling through many ancient texts and scrolls—i.e. Wikipedia—it would appear there’s a common misconception that the classic Pompadour originated from Lady Pompadour. Ironically, she liked her hair flat and back, which is the opposite of the voluminous haircut of that name today. So, why after 400 years did this signature lady’s style become a symbol of male rebellion? In the 1950s after the devastation of WWII, people sought comfort and distraction in the wonderment of a new form of entertainment—television. This gave a platform to such icons as the King himself—Elvis Presley. For the first time, entertainers were beamed into living rooms on a global scale. This led to an unprecedented influence on fashion and pop culture. The King’s style was emulated throughout the world and became synonymous with rebellious men and ‘the bad boys’. No other haircut has or is likely to stand the same test of time as the Pompadour—the ‘Bieber Sweep’ came close, but sadly had to go to live on the farm where the shit haircuts go to die. Rest In Peace. Today’s Pomps are much looser with a natural matt finish, sometimes referred to as ‘loosey–goosey’. It’s maintainable and compliments most face shapes. It creates an approachable, confident style which can be worn anywhere. It’s prevalent in pop culture—David Beckham sports it. The original greased Pompadour is still around today thanks to the Rockabilly movement and musicians like Alex Turner. Who knows what the Pomp will look like in 60 years time, but I’m confident it won’t be visiting the farm anytime soon.
ILLUSTRATION FROM SHUTTERSTOCK
JOE MILLS on
RECRUITING NEW TEAM MEMBERS
o one doubts the hairdressing and barbering industries are going through a recruitment crisis. There’s the same amount of school leavers as before, just as many workers in the workplace and people looking for an exciting career path. So why are we struggling? I think there are a few factors we can look at. There has been a boom in barbershops opening and there isn’t the quality of staff needed to go around; the expectations of barbers and salaries is higher than the rest of the industry for the experience they bring. The self–employed versus employed issue is still rumbling and the way that the NVQ is awarded all contribute to our recruitment plight. Over the past few years, there has been a shift in the industry as a whole. The idea of being self–employed and earning loads of money from the barber’s perspective is slightly offbeat, and people’s expectations versus the reality doesn’t match for many. There has also been a flood of barbers with less floor experience but with an NVQ in barbering which has, in some respects, helped and hindered the industry. Being a barber has become a cool job to have and as a business owner, you have to make sure the people you have in your team are passionate about it and want to come on your journey. This is the only part of the hair sector where you can fast–track a qualification and I think this needs to be reviewed. In my opinion, being shop–ready takes time. There are good people out there, it’s a matter of finding them. When we set up the MILLS brand in Birmingham and Manchester, we advertised on numerous websites, then did telephone interviews and group trade tests. It’s always a challenge but also exciting as you never know what to expect. When we recruit for all our brands—MILLS, Joe and Co or The Lounge Soho—we use everything from word of mouth, social media to recruitment websites. Our industry is slightly different from others where headhunting is the norm. So the more people know about you and that you are recruiting the better—even a sign in the window helps!
JOE’S TIPS FOR RECRUITING ■■ Don’t just hire anyone—make sure they are who and what you want. Do they fit into your team? Do they need additional training? What do they bring to the table? ■■ Before you make a job offer, have a couple of the team chat to them—a big personality can upset dynamics. ■■ Have a probation period in place—this helps the settling–in process for both you and them. ■■ Be clear about what you want from them and ensure they fit into your structure and any plans you have. ■■ Have a recruitment process—for example a CV first, then a trade test where the barber brings in their own models. This will show you how much they want it. ■■ Take time to really watch them during the trade test—how they work, how they interact with their model and the rest of the team.
ow, I’m not Tom Cruise, but if you want to know how you can work on global Fashion Weeks or build an amazing session career... read on. The mission I chose to accept—travel to Paris and cut the hair of the iconic men’s fashion designer, Kim Jones of Dior at Paris Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer show 2020. Working in fashion and being a session stylist was something I always dreamed of. Maybe you’ve had that same dream? Working on Fashion Weeks in Paris, London, Moscow and New York was an exhilarating experience. The fashion industry is the pinnacle of creativity that truly shows off the ingenuity of our work. As a barber, these opportunities don’t come around very easily. Session work tends be a tight network of hairdressers rather than barbers. In my career, I’ve had the opportunity to be the creative director for the largest menswear show ever, comprising of 105 male models— dreams do come true. To be honest, for many days prior to the show, I was perplexed on how I could pull this off. I think in life, it’s important to put oneself in a position that stretches you and never allow yourself to get too comfortable. Getting that gig took years of cultivating relationships with the creative team and the designer himself. Prior to this, I worked on shows in Ghana. So the creative team knew exactly what I was capable of. In today’s industry, it’s unfortunate that hair professionals are more inclined to doubt their skills and abilities. They are reluctant to show how magnificent they are. The problem is that most barbers are hiding behind their chairs and the reality is that they will miss opportunities to travel the world, work on Fashion Weeks or be seen as the go–to industry expert. Which begs the question—why do so many experts struggle to get their work noticed? The fact is, there are more opportunities for barbers than ever before, as the men’s hair industry is so strong and you need to be a part of its evolution! In every industry, you’re going to find the top players. There’s a top 10 per cent and then there’s the average 90 per cent. My mission is to move people to the top 10 per cent. This is where the magic happens!
CHRIS’S TIPS TO GET SEEN, HEARD AND BOOKED TO WORK IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY ■■ Don’t just focus on making your primary connections with people only in this industry. If you want to expand your creative horizons and opportunities; you need to be regularly connecting with fashion designers, makeup artists, photographers, even architects. Basically, anyone who is a creative and allows you the ability to be influenced by their work and hope you can influence their work! ■■ Social media is phenomenal; use it to your advantage. Make sure that you look and sound professional at all times. When you are posting about the work you do, talk about your belief systems, about the people you would like to work with and the images that inspired you. It will help people understand what your future self will look like and how they can work with you. ■■ Don’t be shy—ask. I was recently working on a global campaign in Rome where I asked one of the young makeup artists— who was looking after one of the A–list celebrities—how did she get this gig? She replied, ‘I just DM and asked!’ It’s as simple as that, so while you are thinking these career opportunities are too hard to get just ask and keep asking! ■■ Make your weaknesses your strengths. Focus your skills on speed and precision. You have to work as a team and be a team player, be prepared to roll up your sleeves and get stuck in and leave the ego at home.
IMAGES COURTESY OF CHRIS FOSTER
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[above] Various images from behind the scenes at Dior show at Paris Fashion Week.
SAM WALL on
COMMUNITY BARBER SHOWCASE, PART III
ell, September 6 came around very fast indeed. Having just got back from Behind the Chair in Washington DC, I was packing my bags and heading to Heathrow once again for another monumental journey to see my Canadian family. This was the third show in under a year for Mr Mark Peyton, and it proved a success once again. Each show prior has been held in amazing venues, each venue producing a different vibe, and this time was no different. Held at the Railway Stage & Beer Cafe, the atmosphere was fantastic. I met Hayden Cassidy, my wingwoman for the trip, at Heathrow, and the adventure was soon underway. From the moment we met until the trip’s end, I had nothing but fun with this girl. We arrived in Vancouver on Friday, September 6 at around 2.30 pm. Hayden had just come from Brazil so our jet lag was on another level. We made our way to the hotel and upon arrival met the other weird and wonderful lot that were showcasing on the Sunday. Hayden and I decided to venture out and about on Friday evening and check out Vancouver. The night didn’t disappoint, and I soon began to see the cool, urban, hippie atmosphere the city had to offer. The Saturday afternoon arrived and the whole crew went to hang out in Matty Conrad’s shop, Victory Barber & Brand, Gastown. Matty kindly put on a group discussion where we opened up about our techniques of teaching. It was amazing to listen and find out how everyone sees stage work, their techniques of presenting and to be able to pick one another’s brains. Sunday rolled upon us and everyone made their way to the venue at 10.30 am to prepare and get a feel for the vibe. It was a cool bar with the stage at one end and vendors at the other. And once again, we had the pleasure of having Mizutani Scissors, Wahl, Victory Brand and Resurva sponsor the show. First on stage was the fine man known as Hagrid, the founder of The Lions Barber Collective, and the Keune global barber director, Mr Tom Chapman. He was being interviewed live onstage for Matty Conrad’s awesome podcasts, the only difference being was there were no
It was amazing to listen and find out how everyone sees stage work, their techniques of presenting and to be able to pick one another’s brains.
COL scissors in hand and it was a live podcast on Tom’s story and the Lions Barbers Collective. This was an amazing listen, so thank you Tom for opening up and sharing all— very inspirational. The crowd were already into the show and it was a privilege to open the cutting demos with the big dog Famos, who pulls off a hat better than anyone I know. This guy was fun to share the stage with and we also had the lovely little Kimmy Ziegner with us. I say little, but don’t underestimate this lady as her skills are fierce. Next up was the legendary trio of Brett ‘the Cartoon’ Kelly, who I absolutely love. This guy’s energy and positive outlook on life is phenomenal. Working alongside him was the main man of the whole event, and even though he has given me so much grief, I adore this guy. Mark Peyton, the founder and creator of The Community Barber Showcase, is an incredible human. And the third man making up this trio was Matty Conrad, a guy who puts his life and soul into the barbering community. These three I always struggle to write about as their work does the talking. Following in their footsteps was Brian Munoz, who not only got the crowd going while cutting hair, but was wild on the mic for karaoke night. With Brian was Mari De Monte, who slices through hair easier than melted butter and Mac, back for his second Community Barber Showcase, showed off some serious skills as always. And then there was two—Hayden, one of my favourite humans ever, was performing with Alex Levine who is the coolest guy I know and also part of Gaslight Anthem. These two tore it up and had the audience in awe. Last but not least was Andre Macedo, the smooth Portuguese metal lover and Dom, a guy whose fades are smoother than a baby’s backside. This was a great pair to watch and learn from. After all the incredible guys performed their magic on stage, the after–party began and my god, what a party— karaoke x barbers meant a whole lot of trouble. Everyone had an epic evening and I would like to apologise to Matty Conrad for actually missing him serenade me,
I was devastated to have missed him turning ‘Wonderwall’ into ‘Sam Wall’. Monday was upon us, it was 8.30 am when I met my sister Hayden and we headed to Victory Barber & Brand once again, this time to teach a sold–out course. Working next to Hayden was a privilege and was the perfect way to end an eventful trip. I would like to thank everyone who came to the course; we both thought the standard of work produced was incredible. Until next time Canada, it’s goodbye from us.
IMAGES COURTESY OF SAM WALL
[left page] Hanging out at Matty Conrad’s shop, Victory Barber and Brand; [right page, from left] Kimmy Ziegner, Sam Wall and Hayden Cassidy working their magic over the weekend in Canada.
A quick glance at the work of social mediaâ€“savvy creatives across the country. Tag @barbernvmagazine for a chance to feature your work in our next issue.
â€œOur industry is going through a huge shift with so many stylists taking control of their careers... I see this being a new standard in freelance hairdressing, offering a whole new avenue of revenue for stylists and salon owners alike.â€? Jonathan Andrew, Hairdresser
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with Josh O’Meara–Patel
EACH ISSUE, BARBERNV BRINGS YOU A SHORT INTERVIEW WITH ONE OF THE INDUSTRY’S BEST.
You’ll no doubt have seen that Josh O’Meara–Patel aka Josh.O.P, has taken his skills stateside for The Perspective Tour 2.0, as well as winning the Hot Shot Fade award at this year’s Behind the Chair in Washington DC. Best known for his uniquely modern style, Josh has been relentlessly honing his art and touring as an educator. HOW DID YOU CARVE OUT YOUR NICHE?
In terms of carving out a niche within the industry, I’d honestly say that all I’ve ever done is be myself. A natural, organic energy is key because the energy you put out is the energy you receive. Similarly, it is the energy you attract and so in putting out a natural, organic energy, posting the cuts I liked the most and being proud of them was only ever going to attract an audience that was on board with what I wanted to do.
WHAT WAS YOUR BEHIND THE CHAIR EXPERIENCE LIKE?
A natural, organic energy is key because the energy you put out is the energy you receive.
The entire weekend blew me away. It was my first time attending the event and my first time attending a predominantly hairdressing/cosmo event and I most certainly was impressed. For me, it was a rarity to attend an event and not be educating or working, so I had the chance to relax and enjoy time with friends old and new.
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO BARBERS LOOKING TO ENTER COMPETITIONS LIKE BTC?
As always, my advice to anyone looking to enter a competition or do anything to push themselves within our great industry is simply to do what you need to make yourself happy. Ignore what everyone else thinks and simply do things with good intentions for yourself— that is the key.
WHAT ELSE HAVE YOU BEEN GETTING UP TO STATESIDE?
Well the USA, what can I say? We had the ground–breaking Perspective Tour earlier this year, which was my third full tour of the States. The barber.josh.o.p education has really taken off over there and it grows daily. I love it out there, I feel I connect with the energy of the place and the people, and I’m excited to get back out for The Perspective Tour 2.0 this October and November.
WHAT HAVE YOU GOT PLANNED FOR THE REST OF THE YEAR? The rest of 2019 is fully booked with The Perspective Tour 2.0 in the States followed by a few more dates across Europe leading up until the Christmas rush at the shop where I will be back to ensure my clients get their Christmas cuts. I’ll spend a lot of time doing business and planning the 2020 calendar. The 2020 academy calendar is planned and will be launched very soon. We have a few more things in the pipeline, but all will be revealed in due course. READ THE FULL INTERVIEW AT SALONNV.CO.UK
The Social, London now on e–chair.com
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The barber stars of the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards 2019