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NV

Tom Chapman Vitaly Pimenov IBA

WINTER 2018/19

BARBERNV ISSUE 20

BARBER


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CONTENTS

I S S U E 20

06

40

Vitaly Pimenov

Fellowship

12

46

Step-by-Step with Andis

IBA

14

48

Jacks of London

Alison Brightwell

16

50

OFF – CUT

MADE

18

55

Of Beards and Men

JP Michael

21

58

Chris Foster

Tom Chapman

26

60

Kipp Evans

Panasonic

28

62

The Return of an Icon

Products

30

68

Instagram Showcase

Christmas Gift Guide

34

70

New to e-chair.com

Social Media

36

72

In the chair with e-chair.com

News

Editor’s Comment This is the 20th edition of BarberNV and we couldn’t have gotten this far without everyone we’ve featured, interviewed, showcased, and of course you the reader. So, from the BarberNV team we owe you all a massive thank you. And to add to this we recently won the Salutation Award at the Fellowship for British Hairdressing luncheon. Thank you to everyone who has made these milestones possible. Continuing with our series on mental health in barbering, we

Kipp Evans. Back in the UK, we visited the launch of the

talked to Lions Barber Collective founder, Tom Chapman about

fantastic new Jacks of London, World of Golf London site.

his work and why barbers hold a privileged place in society. Expanding this we’re also looking into the history of beards and their relationship with masculinity, as well as the comeback of an old favourite — the mullet. We give our rundown of the International Barber Awards, as well as a fantastic first-hand account from third place winner,

And of course, as it is the season, we’ve got our Christmas Gift Guide in case you’re stuck for ideas! And all the usual features, news, and products you’d come to expect from us. Looking forward to 2019 we aim to push the quality of BarberNV even further — to deliver new and exciting content from across the globe.

Enjoy! BarberNV Magazine | 3


WANTED

JONATHAN ANDREW 4 | BarberNV Magazine


Credits Founder Joanne Reid | Editor Matthew McLaughlin | Graphic Designer Cara Scott | Sales & Marketing Executive Kat Heron Front Cover Jonathan Andrew Design & Marketing PrintNV | Columnists Chris Foster and Kieran Evans | Thanks Jonathan Andrew, Tom Chapman, Vitaliy Pimenov, Federica Stefani, Kipp Evan, everyone at Jacks of London, JP Michael, Josh OP, 1o1BARBERS, Andis, Panasonic Professional Grooming, Fresh Heads Mens Grooming, e-chair.com, MADE - The Academy of Modern Barbering, Barbicide, The Bluebeards Revenge, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Andis, RUM Barber, OFF – CUT, Alison Brightwell, Bearded Rapscallion, Comunica Hair, Ruffians, Alter Ego. Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 5 Newton Place, Glasgow G3 7PR | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and Gallas Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Š Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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I N D U S T R Y NEWS RUFFIANS WINS WAHL’S BARBERSHOP OF THE YEAR AWARD Ruffians’ Covent Garden shop beat stiff competition to be named as Barbershop of the Year in a prestigious competition run by Wahl Professional. Ruffians won the accolade on Sunday 14 October at Salon International, the annual marquee event of the global hairdressing industry, held at London’s Excel Centre.

HAIRCUTS4HOMELESS ON X FACTOR Haircuts4Homeless, the charitable initiative founded by Stewart Roberts received incredible support following the unveiling of The National Lottery’s latest top-secret TV advert staring the charity, which aired during Saturday night’s X Factor. The TV advert gave an insight into the initiative and how it has changed the lives of those living on the streets. The feel-good campaign has proved hugely popular, with The National Lottery and national media outlets supporting the cause. Haircuts4Homeless was launched in 2014 when Stewart visited his local Salvation Army and offered trims to those waiting on hot food and drinks. After a successful first session, Stewart was asked to continually return, with other shelters eventually seeking his

services. Founder, Stewart Roberts said: “People on the streets often feel they have no voice and are invisible. Through this initiative, I have provided them with a platform to listen and communicate, which can completely change their view on life. It’s a chance for them to interact but also feel good about themselves.” To date, Stewart has 47 projects running with around 300 volunteers and has successfully completed over 35,000 haircuts. The future holds great prospects for Haircuts4Homeless as they get set to launch their first training academy. This initiative will offer homeless people the chance to learn the trade and help them get back into work. They will also be given the opportunity to volunteer to provide them with vital workplace experience.

ANDIS WELCOME NEW EDUCATORS As a prelude to Salon International, Andis hosted an inspirational educator event, which saw the brand’s leading UK, European, and US educators welcome new recruits into their global education family. Led by Andis Global education manager, Jessica Zeinstra, the event provided a motivational format that brought educators together to share their passion for barbering and the Andis brand. Following an informal meet and greet, Jessica outlined the role of educators and how to inspire barbers through structured training. Whilst presenting Andis tools as integral to cutting and styling. A technical presentation on Andis tools followed by marketing product manager Danielle

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Despite being up against some of the biggest names in the UK, Ruffians took home the trophy. Simon Shaw, Wahl’s global artistic director presented the award to Ruffians Covent Garden on the Wahl Professional stage at Salon International. “I was delighted to hand the Barbershop of the Year trophy to Ruffians,” Simon said. “The quality and integrity shown by Ruffians should be an inspiration to other shops on how to run their business.” Ruffians co-founder and CEO, Andrew Cannon said: “It feels amazing to win this award. It’s a tough one to win because there’s a lot of great competition out there. For me, this is a team award — everyone in the shop pulling together to be the best, which is what makes it special. We really wanted to win.” Marketing and communications office for Wahl Professional, Christopher Barleycorn said: “The Wahl Barbershop of the Year is a hugely coveted award, as the calibre of shops that are entered every year is so high. The judges consider every aspect of the business; quality of hairdressing, customer experience, interior, and branding.”

Gallo, showcased the different tool types and applications. Jessica segued this session with an insightful look into learning personas, helping the education team to understand how to deliver effective training by understanding the different learning styles of their audience. After a brief interlude for refreshments, each educator conducted a five-minute presentation to showcase themselves. During these presentations, the audience got to know each educator, understand their tool preferences, and appreciate the varying cultural contexts of their home markets. European lead educator, Baldy said: “Andis are simply the best clippers and trimmers in the world today.”

New Belgian educator, Tom Audoore said: “I wanted to work with a brand of the highest quality and heritage – Andis has it all.” With family at the epicenter of the Andis story, Spain’s Victor Rupert Atero perfectly captured the spirt of Andis and the event: “In one word, family! Family is everything in Spain and Andis is a family company with amazing products. That’s why I choose Andis.” Following a highly successful day, Jessica summarised events: “It was a pleasure to welcome new educators from eight nations into the #AndisNation family. The combination of worldclass tools, world-class barbers, and an education format designed by professionals for professionals, strengthens our position as a world-leading brand.”


JACKS OF LONDON — ON TOP OF THE WORLD The relentless pursuit of excellence by the Jacks of London team has paid off this month with two triumphs. Clapham based barber Kipp Evans was named UK International Barber of the Year and won third place overall in the International Barber Awards held in Nuremberg, Germany. While Jacks managing director, Sue Whitehead collected the top prize for marketing at the Hampshire Salon Awards, which took place at the Hilton in Southampton.

CAL NEWSOME NAMED NEW OSMO AMBASSADOR

Barbering talent, Cal Newsome has been appointed as the newest brand ambassador by professional haircare brand OSMO. This follows collaborations between OSMO and Cal at Salon International and the Great British Barber Bash. Cal and OSMO share a mutual philosophy on how to make the best use of OSMO products to refine techniques and promote creativity. OSMO recognised a reflection of their brand values in Cal’s style and his skill using their grooming range. Cal Newsome started his barbering career in Birmingham, focusing on training in traditional shaves and styles. He later opened his own barbershop, Bull & Co in Bridgnorth,

Shropshire. Recently, Cal reached the finals of three major barbering competitions, including a second place in the Wahl British Barber of the Year. On his appointment as brand ambassador, Cal said: “Being a brand ambassador for OSMO means everything to me as I’ve been a huge fan of their products since I started cutting. I truly believe that their diverse range of styling and colouring products are the best on the market and I’m thrilled to be onboard.” Osmo brand manager, Sinead McLaughlin said: “We are delighted to have Cal onboard as part of our every growing OSMO family. We have admired his creativity and unique sense of style for sometime now and we’re very excited to see what we can create together going forward.”

WAHL (UK) FOUNDER PASSES AWAY It is with great sadness that Wahl (UK) Limited has announced the death of their founder, Brian Hollands, 73, who passed away 12 October. The Wahl family and it’s employees are extremely saddened by the loss of a true gentleman. Appointed by Mr Jack Wahl in 1987, Brian was responsible for establishing and developing Wahl in the UK and European marketplace. Operating from the humble beginnings of his dining room table, Brian laid the foundations for Wahl’s European success, overseeing the Company’s rapid growth and establishing Wahl as leaders in the barbering and hairdressing industry on this side of the Atlantic. In 2002 the NHF recognised Brian’s contribution to the craft presenting him with the Companion of Honour award. Serving as managing director until 2002 and subsequently chairman until his retirement in 2014, Brian gained a reputation for hard work and high expectations and earnedrespect and trust from everyonewho worked with him. Those

Kipp, who was one of just two British barbers who made it to the IBA finals, organised by European suppliers 1o1 BARBERS. After getting through to the final, he had to produce an ontrend look for 2019. “It was so tense, especially as I had to organise my models from the UK without seeing them in person before the actual competition,” Kipp said. “But it was awesome to represent Britain overseas and to actually win a place on the podium and the UK title. British barbering leads in the world; I went to Germany determined to prove it.” Meanwhile, Jacks Southampton, which opened just 18 months ago, swooped in to take the Marketing Trailblazer prize for their Join Our Pride campaign. A multi-focus, mixed-media programme to drive client loyalty to the brand, while reaching out to potential barbers keen to move to an award-winning company. Sue Whitehead said: “We have spent the past 20 years building our brand so that we can to guarantee our clients the best service possible, and that includes recruiting the best. But attracting good staff is just as relentless a task as proving our worth to our clients day-on-day, so creating compelling marketing campaigns is crucial to our success.” The victories follow a year of success, with the group reaching the final in 12 competitions. “Over the past year, we’ve been delighted to get to the finals of so many awards, encouraging our barbers to pit their skills against the best worldwide,” Sue continued. “The past 12 months have been amazing, but 2019 is going to be even better.”

qualities are now synonomous with Wahl (UK) Limited and will be a lasting legacy to Brian’s passion and drive for success.

BARBER AND AFRO BARBER OF THE YEAR SPONSORED BY ANDIS Two of the most eagerly anticipated barbering competitions of the year reached a sensational conclusion at Salon International in October, as some of the industry’s greatest talents competed for HJ’s Afro Barber of the Year and Barber of the Year. Barbers at the top of their game performed with the added expectations of industry icons such as Andis European lead educator Baldy, Andis educator Leah Hayden Cassidy, Andis Global education manager Jessica Zeinstra, barbering legend Tom Chapman, and HJ Men editor Charlotte Grant-West, scrutinizing each finalist’s work for perfect execution of their model’s hair. With both competitions proudly sponsored by

Andis, judges deliberated diligently before Leah Hayden Cassidy took to the stage to announce Emmett Williams as HJ Afro Barber of the Year and Harry Rushton as Barber of the Year. Andis education manager, Jessica Zeinstra said: “As always, the standard in this competition is exceptionally high and the margin between finalists and the winners is so narrow. “As a manufacturer of world-class tools, we look for precision cutting, clean lines, and perfection in the final cut. Emmett and Harry are exceptional talents and deserving winners of these highly reputable awards, and as a proud sponsor, we’re delighted to offer our congratulations.” Andis senior manager of corporate communications, Bruce Bock added: “As a professional brand we are committed to raising professional standards in the global industry. These competitions are synonymous with Andis’ values of excellence, education, and continual improvement, so we’re delighted to be associated with HJ, HJ Men, and both competitions.”

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RUFFIANS Hair: Tommy Cunliffe, Richard Tucker & Tyler Peters Photographer: Edvard Kristiansen Creative Direction: Denis Robinson Styling: Barbara Ayozie

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J.M KEUNE // 1922

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Fellowship News

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing has launched its first barber-focused project — a yearlong course for aspiring barbers The Fellowship for British Hairdressing has launched The Barber Project; its first education programme dedicated solely to the craft of barbering. This new project is aimed at hairdressers looking to improve their barbering skills, those looking to make a move into the field, or newly-qualified barbers looking to work with and learn from the best in the industry. Over the course of the year, students will cover all aspects of men’s hairdressing, through to the core barbering skills of clipper work, and wet-shaving. The project will build up to stage time at Salon International in October 2019.

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The provisional calendar includes an introductory session, barber cuts workshop, clipper workshop, beard and shave workshop, and presentation and fashion skills workshop, all taught by experts – with press exposure. Barbering is big business, with men spending an average of £779 every year on treatments and services (up 9% on the previous year) according to Salon Services’ most recent Beautiful Britain survey. But while services might be growing, there is still work to be done in the skills department – which is where the Fellowship steps in. The Barber Project mentor, Johnny Baba said: “The trend of barbering is at its highest, but the craft of barbering is at an all-time low.” With the launch of the project, the Fellowship hopes to help celebrate the mastery of the craft and help create a new generation of inspiring barbers.


ALBERTO SALVADOR

CARACTER COLLECTION Hair: Alberto Salvador @ Salvador Fashion & Creative Hairstyles Photographer: Alfredo J. Llorens Makeup: Ángeles Abel Models: Hugo Soriano, Álex Bolance, Aitor Carroza & Guillermo Serrano

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IN TE RNATIO NA L

BARBER AWARDS Tsvetelina Gregova from Sofia, Bulgaria was named as the winner of this year’s International Barber Awards. The Bulgarian barber competed against 19 finalists from 12 countries at the full-day competition in Nuremberg, Germany. Hundreds of talented barbers from all over the world applied, while 60 made it to the qualifiers at the various live competitions across Europe. Only barbers who successfully convinced the international jury and passed these rounds made it to the finals in Nuremberg. The International Barber Awards was a who’s who of European barbering talent. Norway’s Eva Suarez, took home second place, while Kieran Evans of Jacks of London claimed bronze. Ultimately, Tsetelina Gregova emerged victorious, she said: “I’m totally overwhelmed and thankful and I cannot believe it. I am totally excited — it was a gigantic experience.” International Barber Award and 1o1BARBERS founder, Micha Birkofer said: “The International Barber Awards showcases the whole range of the barbering craft and the top elite of international barbers. We saw a variety of techniques and influences from all over the world. The special feature is the participants have to prove their abilities several times in front of an expert jury, which demands incredible professionality from them. In short, whoever wins here has earned the title and truly deserves it. In addition, I am very grateful to our sponsors for their support.” Participants competed live in two barbering disciplines under the critical watch of the audience and judging panel. The first stage tested the barber’s men’s grooming par excellence, which involved a head shave combined with first-class beard treatment. 14 | BarberNV Magazine

The topic of men’s hair and beard care is more relevant today than ever, as men have become more and more important to hairdressers and the hair and beauty industry as a whole. This is due to the consumer behaviours of men. Additionally, it can’t be ignored that part of the modern man’s lifestyle is a first-class haircut and well-groomed facial heard. The second task was to conceptualise a men’s hair trend for 2019. Even if the barbershop doesn’t focus on trends, the finalists had to prove they are capable of creating their own, modern interpretations of classic men’s haircuts. It was in this challenge where Tsvetelina Gergova showcased her talent — setting herself apart from the rest and bringing the title to Bulgaria.

INTERNATIONAL JURY The jury of experts included the experienced, internationally renowned barber Salvador Chanzá (aka Lord Jack Knife of the LJK International Barber School), Eddine Belaid (Traditional Zurich), Alan Findlay (Rebel Rebel, Glasgow) and Thorsten Staudt ( Jimmy Ray’s Barbershop, Nuremberg). Ingo Wertebruch, a state-approved, certified on-site expert, was there to ensure that the scoring and ratings were properly carried out.


THE PLACEMENTS 2018 1st place Tsvetelina Gergova - Bulgaria 2nd place Eva Suarez Bua - Norwegen 3rd place Kieran Evans - UK 4th Place Geoffrey Kvot – France 5th place Kyriakos Papadopoulos - Greece

ALL FINALISTS 2018 Michael Tews - Austria Kreshnik Morina - Kosovo Tsvetelina Gergova - Bulgaria Kyriakos Papadopoulos - Greece Eva Suarez Bua - Norway Jens Engelhardt - Switzerland Navid Sabbaghian - Switzerland Sivo Tamer - Germany Giuseppe De Sanctis - Germany Thomas Boidol - Germany Can Misirra - Germany Roberto Morena - Spain Juan Manuel Perdogones - Spain Kieran Evans - UK Yucel Olmezkaya - UK Geoffrey Kvot - France Abdelhakim Zaidi - France Joucke Modderkolk - Benelux Abdil Koksal - Benelux

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ALISON BRIGHTWELL BRITISH GRAND MASTER BARBER

In 2014 Alison Brightwell was the first woman to be awarded the title of British Master Barber by the British Master Barbers Alliance. Four years later at HJ Live in Manchester, Alison became the first female British Grand Master Barber — the highest honour awarded by the BMBA. Alison was presented the award by Wahl artistic director, Simon Shaw live on stage, much to her complete surprise. British Master Barbers Alliance co-founder, Tony Copeland asked Alison to come to the trade show. On the pretence, she thought, of demonstrating cutting techniques. “They waited ‘til I finished and called me to one side and said ‘we’ve got something for you,’” She told BarberNV. “That was when Tony Copeland had Simon Shaw present me with it. I was totally overwhelmed, I feel really privileged. “I can’t believe it, it’s quite surreal trying to digest it. It’s been a mental year and it’s great to feel recognised for what you put into the industry.” Alison was awarded the title due to her enormous contributions to the industry as a top-flight educator. Additionally, she demonstrates and educates live at industry events, and is part of the City & Guilds barbering board, who constantly strive to improve upon the education of barbers. Not only has she been crowned as a British Grand Master Barber, but Alison also won the Further Education Teacher of the Year Award at the TES awards earlier this year. Alison teaches at East Durham College, bringing out the very best of the up-and-coming barbers in her classroom.

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The award is a well-deserved accolade, as under Alison’s tutelage course numbers and progress rates have doubled — no easy feat. She said: “I like to challenge, push, and encourage my students as much as I can. I always try and instil a good work ethic, and encourage them to work hard and never give up on what they aspire to do. Never settle for average.” To take home the Further Education Teacher of the Year award, Alison beat out teachers of every subject from across the UK. She said: “That was a total shock. I only found out the college had nominated me when I got into the finals. And it was a big one because it wasn’t

just to do with barbering. “There were the likes of maths teachers and science teachers shortlisted. So, for me to be in our industry and win it was just another unbelievable achievement. I’ve had quite a year.” 2018 has been Alison Brightwell’s year, that much is undeniable. But, in 2019 Alison told us she would continue to strive for more, always seeking to add something different to the industry. To enhance not only her own career, but the careers of everyone she teaches.


“I always try and instil a good work ethic, and encourage them to work hard and never give up on what they aspire to do. Never settle for average.� ALISON BRIGHTWELL

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BE MADE

Rebel Rebel teams up with Glasgow Kelvin College to offer unique barbering training at MADE the Academy for Modern Barbering.

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esearch by Armour to Barbers and The Bluebeards Revenge suggests barbering as an industry will continue to grow over the next five years. The same survey also found there were concerns over the lack of quality barbers to fill the demand. This is where MADE the academy for modern barbering steps in to offer you a fantastic career.

“To be the best you should be taught by the best.” This is the MADE’s ethos. At the helm of MADE is Rebel Rebel owner, Alan Findlay. A multi-award-winning industry figurehead with incredible experience as a barber, business owner, and educator. In a one-of-a-kind collaboration with Glasgow Kelvin College, you will be taught to a very high industry standard, the Rebel Rebel way. And there simply isn’t another barbering brand or college in Scotland offering this level of fully realised barbering education.

“To be MADE is to be assured of success in life...” Firstly, you’re in a Rebel Rebel environment, you have access to Rebel Rebel master barbers, and you spend time in Rebel Rebel, experiencing every aspect of the industry. Alan and MADE will give you more than cutting and theory —it’s a comprehensive experience.

“Modern barbering is not about cutting hair, it’s a service beyond that of a shave and short back and sides.” - Alan Findlay And this is what students will get with MADE, an education beyond simply learning to cut hair. Students will get industry training in how to promote themselves as a barber and how to build their professional Instagram profile, with the social media elements being tailored for the industry, based on the successes of the Rebel Rebel team. They will receive an insight into what is happening in the industry right now through Rebel Rebel. MADE students also work towards a City and Guilds qualification, which lasts a lifetime and is both nationally and internationally recognised. And as a student of the College, they will also receive all the support and services like any other enrolled student. When students enroll on the course, they will receive a starter kit worth £500. The starter kit will contain everything you need to begin learning right from the word ‘GO’. The aim of MADE is to shake up barbering tuition in Scotland, offering each student a personalised work placement programme, which will be scattered throughout the course to suit the needs of any student. Whether you want to experience a busy barbershop environment, observe the master barbers, or get more practice. All this is possible in the ultra-modern and bespoke MADE training academy in central Glasgow — an academy built specifically to teach modern barbering combining the barbering excellence of Rebel Rebel and the professional education from Glasgow Kelvin College.

“... if you ‘make it’ then you have successfully achieved something difficult.”

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THE COURSES The courses are designed to help you take a leap. To enter a new industry, or improve your craft, and apply it anywhere in the world. There are four different courses offered at MADE and if you are looking for something more bespoke, MADE can help you with that too: FAST.TRACK 15 weeks, five days a week of intensive Rebel Rebelesque training to get your barbering career started. TRAIN.ME If you’re working in the barbering or hairdressing industry – two days a week for 15 weeks to upskill or train for you or your staff. WHILE-u-WORK Keep earning while you’re learning to become a barber – two days a week for 28 weeks. No experience necessary. TRY.ME Come join in for a day to get the MADE experience before you sign up – £99 per day.

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SHABA 2018 | BEST BARBER COLOURIST

JP Michael JP Michael of Rehab, Glasgow won Best Barber Colourist at this year’s Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards. An incredibly hard-fought category, JP faced some of the best and most creative barber colourists in Scotland to take home the crown. He was initially hit by the kind of nervousness you would expect to feel waiting for your category to be called. JP didn’t even realise he had won until his table jumped up and roared when his name was pulled from the envelope. He was at a loss for words collecting the welldeserved SHABA trophy. “I was dead surprised, I wasn’t getting my hopes up that I would win,” JP told BarberNV. “When they were going through the categories I was getting more and more nervous and my mouth was dry. So, I went out to get some water, and literally sat down to have a sip of water when the full table erupted. I was like ‘what’s going on?’ Then I realised you called my name, it just happened so fast.” On top of his win, this was the first time JP had entered SHABA — a monumentous achievement for anyone let alone on their first entry. However, he’s already looking forward to next year’s competition, he said: “I don’t think I’ll enter for Best Barber Colourist again, but I want to enter Best Male Barber. It’s a good experience to go through, and it’s good to have that against your name. So, I’m just going to keep entering and rack up as many titles as I can.” He believes that while the silver hair trend among men is popular, and will undoubtedly be popular into 2019 men should be more ambitious with their hair. That hair, much like tattoos is a way of expressing one’s individuality. He told BarberNV: “I feel like we should be a bit more adventurous and creative, because it’s like people getting tattoos, it’s expressing yourself, and you should do that with your hair as well. “I’ve got a different hair colour every couple of weeks! I want to see people more daring, it’s only hair you can dye it back or cut it off.” Admitting to not holding anyone on a pedestal, JP seeks to only better himself at his craft. He pushes for individuality and it’s evident in his work, his attitude and personal style. And we can’t wait to see what he has in store for SHABA in 2019. BarberNV Magazine | 21


TREVOR SORBIE OUTLINE Hair: Jake Courtnage Photographer: Chris Bulezuik Makeup: Jo Turner

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Hair: Jake Courtnage Photographer: Chris Bulezuik Makeup: Jo Turner

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“Outline collection started as an in-house salon shoot. It quickly started growing into something fresh and new. Outline was my feeling and concept focusing on bold rugged outline shapes on men.�

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TOM CHAPMAN O N M E N TA L H E A LT H

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e’ve all had negative experiences with mental health. It’s sadly part and parcel of the human condition. Although half of all British men are now more comfortable talking about mental health, a stigma still surrounds men, mental health, and suicide like a thick miasma. Phrases like “man up” prop up outdated societal expectations of men, further contributing to the bottling of emotions and cultural silence. Barber, Tom Chapman, through his charity organisation Lions Barber Collective, is trying to break these age-old stigmas and get men to talk in the safe space of the barbershop. Yet, this is easier said than done. As men we’re still grappling with generations of negative social conditioning; keeping us firm lipped and stoic even when it’s self-destructive. According to the latest figures from suicide prevention charity Samaritans, 5,821 people took their own lives in 2017. Of these 4,382 were male. And while these figures are the lowest for thirty years, suicide among 45-49 year old men has increased by 7.4%. In Wales, male suicide figures increased by 4.5% from the previous year. So, we can acknowledge the numbers as upsetting, but how can we make the necessary changes to reduce suicide among men? Research commissioned by LBC and The Bluebeards Revenge revealed that 71% of men have good, or very good relationships with their barbers. While 59% rated their patient to doctor relationship as average or worse. One man surveyed said: “My relationship with my barber has been established over 25 long years. He knows everything about me and has become a very reliable and trustworthy friend I

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can disclose any information to. I can’t say the same for my doctor; every time I visit my local surgery, I’m greeted by another young face fresh out of medical school – that has no time or intention to build much of a rapport with me because he knows he will probably never see me again.” Tom believes that this difference in relationship is down to the undistracted, one on one conversations between barbers and their customers. As well as the key to preventing the harrowing statistics climbing. And for this reason, he believes barbers hold a very privileged space in society. “We have the license to touch, which is incredibly rare nowadays,” Tom told BarberNV. “Just as one to one conversation with no distractions are.” The barbershop provides men with a safe space, built around

strong relationships and trust. After all, Tom spends around 2,000 hours a year listening to customers in his chair, and it is very rare anything said would leave that confidence. Throughout his 15-year long career, Tom has made his chair a safe space. Giving men an environment where they can drop their guard and speak openly. Tom himself has had many experiences dealing with the darker side of mental health. Customers have even expressed “that they want to end their life”, chats which resulted in that person’s life being saved — speaking volumes for the work Tom does every day. While it might not always be as serious as this, being a sympathetic ear for men in need can be hugely preventative. To help foster this ideal, Tom is developing BarberTalks. A training program built to enable barbers to better recognise the signs of poor mental health in their customers. To help whoever is sat in their chair open up and speak where they may not feel comfortable discussing their issues with friends or family. Equally, Tom understands barbers cannot be councillors, but they can embrace the trust afforded to them by their position and nurture a strong support network. And through this help prevent unnecessary deaths. But, as Tom told BarberNV: “We have BarberTalk Lite available online at thelionsbarbercollective.com which is a short awareness questionnaire, which can be easily completed and will provide you with a bit of knowledge about signposting and listening. What we do is not about giving advice, it’s more about listening to what people have to say without judgement and with empathy. Don’t ever say to people you know how they feel because everybody reacts to things in different ways. Let them know that you’re


willing to let them explain how they feel and you try to understand, but most importantly you won’t judge them. “Going to your GP may also help those in need. If you are truly worried if someone will take their life try to create a plan to keep them safe, with them, maybe get them some support, contact a family member or friend to come and meet them, stopping them from being alone in their time of need.” Tom’s Lions Barber Collective has grown into such a network, where barbers can work to support not only their clients but each other. “In times of need we need to ensure we have our support network,” Tom said.

“Being involved with mental health and suicide prevention charities and training has made me realise the importance of having a good support group around you. Whether that is friends or family, it is so important to let others know you are there for them and know who is there for you.” Male grooming brand, The Bluebeards Revenge collaborated with Tom to create Lions Hair Gel, with 50p from every tub sold going back into the charity. Alongside money raised, The Bluebeards Revenge has transformed their brand packaging to incorporate positive messages to support Lions Barber Collective. LBC will also be announcing their charity

ambassadors soon. Ultimately, Tom and the Lions Barber Collective’s biggest goal is to save a life. A goal they will seek to recognise on a global scale. Even if it’s for the briefest moments of their day, customers talk to barbers openly. This is the privilege that Tom spoke about. You are there and they need someone to talk to and you have to potential to make a massive impact on so many lives. Barbering is more than a craft, more than a career, it’s a platform to bring about real change. “To that one person and all their family and friends, it will make all the difference.”

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PROFESSIONAL GROOMING

BY PANASONIC

Known predominantly for reliable and high-quality consumer goods, Panasonic is currently making waves in the market with the introduction of its Professional Grooming range.

Panasonic GP81 Clipper

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espite being newcomers to the UK, 2016 figures from Euromonitor International LTD showed the Panasonic range dominating in Germany, France, and Italy, with number one usage rate among professional salons and barbershops. Bringing a combination of cutting-edge design and exceptional craftsmanship to the industry, the Professional Grooming range has already received an overwhelmingly positive response from barbering experts and new customers. When asked about the vision for the range within the UK, Ian Griffiths, Beauty and Grooming category manager, said: “As a company, one of our primary objectives is to continually bring products to the market that are innovative, unique, and designed with the end user’s needs in mind. The Professional

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Grooming range is no exception to this, with products designed to offer the user optimum comfort and functionality without compromising on style.” The GP81 Clipper and GP21 Trimmer demonstrate Panasonic’s commitment to the use of high-end materials and cutting-edge innovation. Premium Japanese steel blades ensure a perfectly clean cut, while built-in sensors adjust speed and power based on hair density. Here at BarberNV, we are well aware that professional ranges must not only perform well but equally support the barbering community. Recently partnering with industry expert, Kevin Luchmun, Panasonic Professional Grooming will be combining forces to offer barbers engaging live demonstrations and educational sessions throughout 2019. Ian Griffiths told BarberNV: “Our partnership with

Panasonic GP21 Trimmer Kevin has only just begun, but we look forward to the opportunities that this joint venture will present.” The Panasonic Professional Grooming team also recently attended Salon International. The threeday trade show is the jewel in the crown of hair and beauty events in the UK, and the perfect place to demonstrate the Panasonic range to barbers first-hand. Alongside Kevin Luchmun, the Professional Grooming team will be showcasing at further industry events throughout 2019, so make sure you check out their stands for expert demonstrations of the Panasonic Professional GP81 Clipper and GP21 Trimmer. In the meantime, head to the Instagram channel, @panasonicprogrooming, for updates and inspiration.


PRODUCTENV Y

Editor’s Choice

EDITOR’ S COMMENT Need rejuvenation, fledgling brands, or incredible new lines from the biggest in industry? As always, we’ve got only the most essential products the modern man could want or need!

Barber & Co Hard Pomade Neu Hair 4 Men Micro Skin Thin Men’s Hairpiece This micro thin clear poly base is Neu Hair 4 Men’s thinnest most invisible base yet. The front hairline has a low density invisible front edge creating a truly invisible and natural front hairline for any style of any length. This hair system is totally freestyle and allows you complete freedom of styling along – available in a whole spectrum of colours.

A new generation pomade with strong hold and a shined finish for those classic barber styles. Unlike other pomades however, the Hard Pomade will keep your hair in place day and night without getting greasy! £6.95 + VAT barberandcoeu.com

£249 neuhair4men.co.uk

Panasonic GP81 Cordless Clipper

NY Shaving Company Old St. Patrick’s Beard Kit For proper facial hair growth and maintenance this do-it-all kit is perfect for all beard types and stages of growth. The Old St. Patrick’s Beard Kit is a perfect gift for yourself or the bearded gentleman in your life. $55 nyshavingcompany.com

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The Panasonic GP81 is a practical hair clipper with quick adjustable dial for length settings from 0.8 to 2.0mm. Its ergonomic design, superior linear motor, and unrivalled Japanese tempered blades offer consistent power control and a perfect cut every time. £168 salonsdirect.com


PRODUCTENVY

Hanz de Fuko Modify Pomade

The Modify Pomade formula is Hanz de Fuko’s most traditional formula, perfect for classic styling without a heavy or overly-greased feeling. £16 mankind.co.uk

Naturally Tribal Skincare Agu Men’s Body Food The AGU Men’s Body Food is packed full of high-grade shea butter and cinnamon. Quick and easy – rub this all over your face and body and let the high-grade shea butter intensely moisturise the skin, whilst the cinnamon helps to restore your skin’s suppleness, due to its rich antioxidant properties. £24.99 naturallytribalgroup.com

The Bearded Rapscallion The Peaky Blinder Beard Oil & Balm A blend of tangerine, vanilla, and spearmint. A stimulating and sweet scent with a blend of fresh spearmint, uplifting citrusy tangerine, with the undertones of exotic Madagascan vanilla. £16 (30ml) thebeardedrapscallion.com

System Professional A perfect lightweight moisturiser, transforming your hair and beard texture for improved definition. Helps to make hair more resistant against daily wear and tear. Specifically designed for manageable shine, anti-frizz, and smoothness. systemprofessional.com

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PRODUCTENV Y

Grooming

Allies of Skin 1A All-Day Pollution Repair Mask

R+CO Sand Castle Dry Texture Crème For texture that feels like a day at the beach, use SAND CASTLE. This lightweight creme re-creates the look of sun, sand, ocean, and wind. Working to absorb oil while nourishing.

Formerly known as the 1A All-Day Mask, this new and improved formula from Allies of Skin is 50% more concentrated than the original. A leave-on day treatment mask, it is made from a powerful time-release formula containing the concentration and potency of a treatment mask with the ease of a moisturiser. £87 harrods.com

£25 randco.com

MARRAM Co Wake Up Call Shaving Cream The pure, organic essential oils in this shaving cream will leave you feeling refreshed with a sense of mental resilience. This cream will also help calm inflammation and encourage skin cell revitalisation. £20 (100ml) mrporter.com

Fresh Heads The Modern Gent Hair Tonic Fresh Heads have developed a wonderful product for the modern gent. Created with a modern twist on a traditional barbershop product, these tonics will change the client experience in any barbershop. And recognising that smell is a crucial factor in customer choice, the hair tonics are available in eight fantastic scents. £7 (100ml) freshheadshairtonics.com

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PRODUCTENVY

PRODUCTENV Y

Furniture & Equipment

Hunt & Hustle For a limited time only, presenting the Ace of Spades Black Edition. The blade shape and off-set handle ensures a finer response and power. These scissor come in 6.3” and 7” with a Piano Black limitededition display case. £300 huntandhustle.com

1o1Barbers Mobile Barber Station The barber industry is flourishing! Many barbers are on the go to offer traditional crafts at events. With the Mobile Barber Station from 1o1Barbers, you can offer customers a premium service anywhere at anytime. 101barbers.com

Wahl Tool Carry Loads of pockets and a 10-inch deep main compartment, this Wahl carry bag is perfect for bigger tools and products. The similar-sized zipper compartment is great for securing your scissors, combs, and brushes. From £12.30 coolblades.co.uk

Takara Belmont Mini-Cabi in steel Keep shaving towels hot and ready for action in this ultrasleek, reliable towel cabinet. As a must-have accessory for barbershops, this industrious piece of kit comes with the performance and reliability you’d expect of any Takara Belmont product, and it looks great too! £320 takarahairdressing.co.uk

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CHRISTMAS

GIFT GUIDE Tis the season. It creeps up every year, and every year the process of getting gifts becomes harder and harder. And let’s face it your retail market game has to be seriously upped during the festive period. As well as providing a great point of sale opportunity for barbers, these products can also make great gifts for friends and family. The bonus being no one will get lumbered with the Lynx Africa set. Well, not from you at least...

Spongelle Men’s Triple Buffer Spongellé body wash infused buffer becomes the last word in pampering. Maybe it’s the rich, one-ofa-kind fragrance or the swirls of thick, creamy suds enveloping you from head to toe. The experience is so intensely pleasurable, it should come with a warning sticker. Spongellé will transform your bathing ritual into a cleansing experience beyond any other.

Clive Christian Original Collection Traveler Set Offering both ease and variety, these collections of 10ml or 30ml fragrances offer the same intensity and concentration as a full-sized fragrance, all while allowing the you to explore the variety in the originals collection. £195 clivechristian.com

£13.50 spongelle.co.uk

OSMO The Grooming Gift Pack

Cranes Cider Mixed Gift Set This gift set includes three different flavoured Cranes ciders (Cranberries & Limes, Blueberries & Apples, and Raspberries & Pomegranates) and a branded glass. Cranes ciders contain 30% fewer calories than brand leaders as they utilise the natural sugars which come from the fruit. £17.99 amazon.co.uk

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OSMO’s latest giftset is the ultimate styling experience for style conscious gents in search of effortlessly cool originality, textured control, and look definition. This gift set contains: one x Clay Wax™ (100ml), one x Fibre Sculpt™ (100ml), and one x Matt Salt Spray (250ml). £16.15 fantastichairandbeauty.co.uk


Dear Barber Beard Grooming Collection Everything you need to keep your facial hair in tip-top condition. This beard grooming kit includes Dear Barber beard oil (30ml), Dear Barber moustache wax (25ml) and a Dear Barber beard comb. £17.95 dearbarber.co.uk

Morgan’s Pomade Gift Set Morgan’s Pomade Gift Set has three strengths of pomade, each of which feature Morgan’s own signature fragrance of bergamot, jasmine, sandalwood and patchouli. Great selection that will have your customers looking their seasonal best. £12.50 coolblades.co.uk

Green People for Men Gym Bag Heroes Whether he’s an outdoors, hiking kind of man or a cardio-busting gym goer, the Green People for Men Gym Bag Heroes collection makes for the perfect gift. Perfectly packaged in a stylish brushed canvas wash bag, this limited-edition trio of treats includes; a detox shower gel, thyme, and probiotics deodrant and their itch away shampoo. . £39.95 greenpeople.co.uk

The Bluebeards Revenge Barber Bundle The Barber Bundle gift set is a comprehensive collection of luxury shaving products designed to meet the wet-shaving needs of any selfrespecting barber – as well as making the perfect package for any man determined to perfect the skill. £56.99 bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

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Keeping it fresh on

SOCIAL MEDIA

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nlike, for example, a fashion brand, Instagram isn’t the difference between the success or starvation of a barber. We can use the fashion industry as a measure, as it relies on creating online engagement and translating that into sales. However, this isn’t how the barbering industry uses social media. Nor can online engagement be directly translated into customers for barbers. If a barber relied solely on social media to generate bums in seats, they’d go hungry. But those two or three seconds audiences take notice can be crucial for building yourself as a brand. So many will scoff and suggested the more active a barber is on social media, the more likely they are to see tumbleweeds. You may, however, be feeling the onset of stagnation. You may want to make a move to pastures new but aren’t sure if now is the right time, or what you can do other than move to a new shop. Social media could act as the catalyst to bring about the next stage of your career, moving you away from comfortability and potential career stall. This realisation may give you the inspiration you need to make a career pivot. There could be any number of reasons for this feeling. One perhaps all too common explanation is the death of the UK high street. Every year footfall steadily decreases and more businesses move to e-commerce. According to ParcelHero between 2020 and 2030, 100,000 stores will close, but this shouldn’t affect barbering, right? In regards to barbering what is a career pivot? While barbering as a craft inspires passion, barbers are not immune to hitting career ceilings. The shop they have worked in for many years isn’t working for them. This is the pivot point in a barber’s career. Educator and social media influencer, Josh O’meara-Patel said: “For artistic professionals such as ourselves it is by far the greatest platform for success. If used correctly and respected as a tool for it can help

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you maximise your potential. I began my career cutting in my kitchen simply by using social media to show to my friends and family my work was good enough. “From there I got more and more clients, I was offered jobs, and I was offered the chance to educate. Essentially, using social media organically has entirely aided the growth of my career and by using it appropriately I have been able to build what I have today.” One of the hardest questions to answer is ‘when is it time to capitalise?’ And unfortunately there isn’t any one right answer. Is it when brands begin to take notice? When you’ve built enough of a customer base or brand to begin travelling or educating? When you have the money to open your own barbershop? Brands will take notice if you’ve organically built a strong following. A brand may want you to be their latest ambassador, or better still an educator with the brand. You’ve built your following, you’ve carefully cultivated your own e-ghost and now it seems like time to take a leap of faith. Brands understand that in order to bolster their public image and in turn sales they need to endorse industry influencers. This is where social media engagements translate into sales. Here, the idea of relevance between the barber and the brand is symbiotic. Both brand and influencer benefit from exposure from the other’s social media following. On the other side of the coin, are you afraid about taking a risk? You have a skill, as a barber you are capable of working anywhere in the world. And until we’ve evolved into hairless superbeings that will continue to be the case. While it is daunting to put yourself out there the rewards could trump any anxieties you may initially have. You always have barbering at the core of your career. If you have the ability to teach, why not? If you have the charisma to become a brand ambassador or even stage artist. Why not? You’ve built yourself up to this point. Don’t tear yourself down.


V I TA L I Y Pimenov

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V I TA L I Y Pimenov

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Words by Frederica Stefani

PIMEN THE BARBER Born in Petropavlovsk, Kazakhstan, Vitaly Pimenov has come a long way since he moved to Russia to follow his dream of becoming a hairstylist – going against his father’s will. In June, he was named as the Global Winner of this year’s American Crew All-Star Challenge, one of the most prestigious competitions in the industry, which took place in Barcelona. Behind his passion for the industry – and for football – Vitaly inspires many people through a teaching programme, gives work to many budding hairstylists, and seeks to make people’s lives better through his career.

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BNV: Where does your passion come from and how did you start working as a barber? VP: Even when I was at school I didn’t enjoy looking like everyone else. I would always look after my haircut and keep an eye on new trends, and tried to keep on doing so. I played football professionally and, after all, footballers tend to give themselves very cool haircuts. Slowly, my passion for football grew into an even greater passion for the art of hairstyling. BNV: Where are you from and where do you work? VP: I was actually born in Kazakhstan. When I turned 18, back in 2008, I moved to Russia and spent three years attending a hairdressing college in Omsk. I finished my training and after a while, I moved north to the city of Surgut. Now, my family is here, but I am seldom at home because I travel around the country a lot for my own training programme. BNV: You are the Global winner of the American Crew All-Star Challenge 2018: what does it mean to you and what do

you think made you stand out from the other competitors? VP: I am really proud to carry this title. It’s a great honour to represent such a huge country in an international competition and win. But life goes on and you always have to work on yourself to improve, develop, and always look forward. BNV: What can we find in your shop? VP: I have a barbershop, which I opened two years ago. At present, there are seven people working in it, to whom I have taught from scratch, and I am really proud of all of them. BNV: What inspires you? VP: First of all, my little daughter inspires me. She is not two-years-old yet, but since birth, she has been spurring me to new achievements. At the same time, I am inspired by people, communicating with them and the exchange of experiences and ideas is very important in our world at present. And, of course, travelling. New countries, cultures, the architecture of different cities... all of this is very inspiring.

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V I TA L I Y Pimenov

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BNV: What do you think was the most important event in your career? VP: The most important moment for me was the day I chose this profession, regardless of the fact that my father was completely against it. But this was only at first. Eventually he changed his mind. BNV: You also participated in several charity initiatives (for instance, with children from an orphanage in Kazan). How do you think your work can help the others? VP: I sincerely consider our profession to be the best in the world, because we can make people happier, change them for the better, spread happiness, and a positive attitude. I often participate in various charity events, whether it is to help needy children or war veterans. We all came into this world for a reason and we should look to change it for the better. BNV: What are the current trends in men’s hair? VP: The trends for 2019 will definitely be long haircuts, precise geometric shapes, and texture. The barbers and their clients are paying more attention to styling, and to high-quality layering.

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BNV: Is there a trend in Russia that is unique to the country? VP: We have one unique trend that is not found in any other country in the world. It is not popular now, but it was in the 90s and 00s. Here these haircuts are called box and half box. The bottom line is the parietal zone cuts with a two or three guard, while the temporal and occipital zones go to number one or zero with a smooth transition. The main feature is bangs – they are very subtle, profiled, and vary in length from short to down to the eyebrow. But now this trend would make all modern Russian barbers smile. BNV: You’re also an educator; When did you start and how important is it for you and your students? VP: I started teaching in 2013. I enjoy sharing my experiences with other artists, helping them, and giving them inspiration. In addition, when you teach, you begin to better understand what you are talking about, and you make room for new knowledge in your head. It is always necessary to be in the process of learning yourself, otherwise, you can start to become stagnant and that can lead to degradation. Learning is the key.

BNV: What about now? What are your projects? VP: Now I mainly focus on my author’s course, expanding the boundaries and drawing my boys into training. Thus, acting as a team, we make learning more informative and more dynamic. In addition, I do not forget about working in my barbershop with clients and one or two weeks a month I work at the chair. My affectionate clients wait for me for a very long time, and my duty is to watch over their overgrown heads. After all, we do not just cut hair, we change people’s lives...


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STEP-BY-STEP

ACHIEVE A HIGH-TECH LOW-FADE WITH ANDIS When it comes to executing the perfect low-fade, a combination of the right tools and technique will ensure barbers master the art of this on-trend look. As a world-leading manufacturer of clippers and trimmers, Andis delivers tools that perform beyond expectation. With UK educator, Sid Sottung providing step-by-step insight, and Andis European educator, Baldy showing how to execute this technique in pictures. Discover how to achieve the perfect result and elevate the precision of your fades with Andis. STEP 1 – Analyse the client’s head shape, hair density, and colour to ensure you establish the correct height for the fade. It’s highly important to do this first step to ensure the low fade suits the client.

STEP 2 – Start off by measuring one to two finger height above the ear, following around the head shape but under the occipital bone. Using the Andis Supra Li5 Clipper and an Andis Comb, proceed to use the clipper-over-comb technique. Keeping in mind that your comb must be at a sharp 45-degree angle. By using this technique, you will establish your guideline for the low fade.

STEP 3 – Upon completion of clipper-over-comb, establish the baseline for the fade. Using a ‘closed’ blade (0 length) work in a flicking motion up into the baseline, going anywhere from 0 to 3mm up into the hairline. Using the Andis Supra Li5 Clipper with a 1 ‘open’ guard, continue to work in a flicking motion, meeting the guideline to ensure it blends in. You should then switch to a 1.5mm (half guard) ‘open’ blade and start blending with the corners of the clippers. Then use a ‘closed’ blade according to the desired blended style you want to achieve. 46 | BarberNV Magazine

STEP 4 – Finish the back of the hairline using an Andis Slimline Pro Li trimmer for seamless perfection.


“Following these four steps are crucial to achieving a perfectly blended in low fade with ease,” agreed Sid and Baldy. “We recommend Andis tools as they perform to perfection.” Find more information on www.andis.com and call Andis Styling on 01635 279 824

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JACKS OF LONDON World of Golf London

A barbershop and Europe’s largest golf driving range may not seem the most obvious partnership, but if there’s a brand that can make this pairing work it’s Jacks of London. Zeroing in on Jacks’ silver anniversary, the new World of Golf London store is the franchise’s eighth opening. World of Golf London is Europe’s biggest and busiest driving range, with more than 13 million balls teed off every year. It may be an unusual location for a barbershop, but everyone believes 100% in the concept. And throughout the day of the store’s launch party customers were relishing services delivered by resident expert barbers Chris Zoumides and Pamela Gajc. The partnership came about when the owner of World of Golf London approached Jacks founder and managing director Sue Whitehead after receiving a great haircut at another Jacks franchise. Sue said: “Finding a location that you want at a price you want can be tricky, but this was fairly easy because it was all sorted for us. “It was really down to making sure we could fit everything in because we have a very strong brand, and we wanted to keep that, even if the store was less than a quarter of the size of most of our shops. But I think it’s worked; it looks just like a mini Jacks.” Jacks of London has built its reputation on the back of world-class offerings and customer service. Throughout the day Chris was kept busy showing off Jacks’ superb male grooming services, including the signature

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face mask and beard shape-up. He said: “We insist on the highest standard of service and privacy, and I actually see the new store as standing out with regards to the clientele that come into the store. “I’ve worked in many barbershops where the guys will see a competition winner and they’ll say, ‘Oh I can do that’. But Jacks barbers are the ones actually doing it; Jacks are the guys finding out new techniques; Jacks are the guys leading the way.” Established in 1994, Jacks of London takes pride in being the original modern barber. Over those two decades, it has built a solid reputation among fashionsavvy men everywhere, specialising in giving clients the full male grooming experience. Sue said: “We’ve always tried to have the best customer service. We try to do miniconsultations, because a lot of men aren’t exactly into that, and it’s important to find out how they want their hair to look. We follow it through with drinks and advice on products, and that’s how we’ve grown.” Everyone at Jacks is convinced the World of Golf London link-up is a solid move, and that the unusual location will stick in customer’s minds. It’s a sentiment echoed by Jacks barber Paul Morgan. He says: “I think it’s a great location, it’s very unusual and it’s cool that it’s open quite late for people who maybe wouldn’t have the time otherwise.” The launch itself was a resounding success. A Champagne bar, a stack of

pizzas and acoustic entertainment met guests coming to see the new location or take advantage of the Jacks experience. Behind the spectacle of the launch party was a statement that Jacks of London isthe industry leader on professional service. Next year both Jacks of London and American Crew will turn 25 years old —a milestone for any brand. BarberNV is pleased to say the two juggernauts of men’s grooming will be celebrating together. Sue couldn’t give too much away, as it’s still in the planning stage. So, here’s to the World of Golf London store and to 25 years of Jacks of London.


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// Interior ENVY

OFF – CUT BARBERS Camberwell, South East London

In the words of OFF – CUT themselves, the modern barbershop came about through necessity. Camberwell, South East London, where the shop is based seriously lacked the presence of a contemporary barber. Camberwell has a large young professional demographic, hosting two of London’s busiest hospitals, as well as a University of Arts London campus, and around 50,000 permanent residents. This was the perfect area for John Jones and Danny Abbott to realise their vision and open OFF – CUT. Danny and John spoke about the idea of what would eventually become OFF – CUT in June this year. “Becoming good friends and realising our visions and taste for things aligned pretty well,” Danny said. “Things happened pretty quickly, I took a step back from my main day to day work and set a plan of action and worked my way through a long list. “The brand for us has been an amalgamation of our minds, our taste, and our future vision for industry.” The space itself is an editorial rebellion, a stark contrast to barbershops emulating an old-school aesthetic. The interior is

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inspired by essentialist, Scandinavian aesthetics — diverging away from the gentleman’s lounge fueled nostalgia beloved by many UK barbers. The palettes of OFF – CUT are darling and bold in their simplicity, contrasting against the backdrop of the modern traditional barbershop. “There is nothing wrong with this look and us Brits love nostalgia,” Danny told BarberNV. “We will continue to use those spaces on a daily basis, but that isn’t how John and myself live our lives. “I studied Architecture and have a huge interest in anything design based, so for me to let out those visions alongside John was of great satisfaction when I was finally able to photograph the space as a whole. “Stripping the brand and shop back to the bare essentials keeps things simple, more time to spend on the services we provide, and providing them to the highest standard we can every single time.” Danny and John take inspiration from everything around them, not just from the industry, but the wider business world. Danny said: “Inspiration is all around us these days, consciously and subconsciously, with the hyper fast-paced social media playing a huge part in that. Brands we collectively look up to include; Arket (retail interior aspect), Blind Barber (barbershop aspect),


and Evo Hair (branding aspect) we have also partnered up with Evo, using and selling their products on the daily. A great hair care brand, serious products. “Then locally we have also taken inspiration from the likes of Theo’s, somewhere that picked the right area at the right time, provides a brilliant end product (London’s best pizza), and has now opened a second store in the regenerated Elephant and Castle.” The aesthetics of a barbershop are the main point of reference for customers, potential or long-standing to understand OFF – CUT as an entity. A point of reference clearly present in OFF

– CUT’s website and social media accounts. John and Danny understand these platforms extend your reach, and potential customers must, therefore, be shown the same style and quality. Not only in terms of the haircuts but each individual offering given out by the brand. And with videos hosted on the Beard Brand Team channel, the OFF – CUT boys understand the power and popularity a strong, well defined multimedia presence can afford. OFF – CUT as a brand truly embody the quality over quantity philosophy.

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ALBERTO SALVADOR

CARACTER COLLECTION Hair: Alberto Salvador @ Salvador Fashion & Creative Hairstyles Photographer: Alfredo J. Llorens Makeup: Ángeles Abel Models: Hugo Soriano, Álex Bolance, Aitor Carroza & Guillermo Serrano

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Hair: Alberto Salvador @ Salvador Fashion & Creative Hairstyles Photographer: Alfredo J. Llorens Makeup: Ă ngeles Abel Models: Hugo Soriano, Ă lex Bolance, Aitor Carroza & Guillermo Serrano

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OF BEARDS AND MEN “We deprive our faces of an ornament, and more or less suspecting that we take away from ourselves something given to us by nature.” Why Shave? (1853)

T

he turn of the decade saw an unmissable rise in the popularity of beards. A period which has been the most sustained since the Thatcher years. With the hipster beard, rather than the loathed man-bun being the style trend that defines the decade. However, the relationship between men and beards is complicated. Throughout history, beards have been central to the construction of masculinity. Meaning that as the roles of men change, so does the popularity of the beard in western society. So, what has caused the sudden resurgence? And what does this say about how the modern man defines masculinity? In the renaissance period, facial hair was treated as a type of excrement resulting from heat in the loins. Marking beards as a sign of virility and sexual potency. The beard was held up as a signifier for manliness and a “badge of strength and beauty”. During the Age of Enlightenment, the effeminacy of men was a hot-button topic in Britain. Particularly because of Frenchinspired fashions popular among men of the period. Despite the Enlightenment’s concern with the natural, the signifier of manhood was gone. This is because the Enlightenment also champion self-control as a male ideal. Shaving was popular, and the newly invented sharper razors made it easier to exercise control over your body. Shaving during this period represented a mind open to new possibilities. It was still acknowledged that beards were “manly”, but the earnest was on being able to grow a beard and exhibiting self-control. The 19th century saw more power bestowed in sex rather than class. This again gave men a reason to display their manhood. Both the patrician and the labourer sported facial hair in one form or another. There was an unimpeachable contrast between the masculine and feminine.

However, behind the pride was a sense of fragility, as during this time masculinity was being challenged both publicly and politically by feminism. First wave feminists during the mid-19th and 20th centuries fought to give women access to the vote, beat back coverture laws and access to education. This meant education and politics were no longer privileges only men enjoyed. This perceived challenge to the role of men only spurred men to abandon the razor. The manifesto of facial hair Why Shave? written in 1853, during the same period as the Suffragettes, argued the differences between men and women further. It told the readers of the author’s belief that men’s work was outdoors, thus nature gave him suitable protection. Though the London authors, journalists by profession, were hardly outdoorsman and existed as a paradox to their own words. An attitude somewhat as apparent now as it was then. Now, much like in the 1850s there is a distinct uncertainty surrounding older constructs of masculinity and the male place in society. War is limited and sports, business and politics are no longer entirely male preserves. Gender and identity politics shake the iron-clad foundation of one, now fairly archaic understanding of manhood. We’ve all seen the poorly argued debates on feminism via that one guy you went to school with’s Facebook page. More women are speaking out against suffered injustices, more men are being held accountable, which some have dangerously labelled a witch hunt. Once again there is a perceived threat to out-dated ideas of masculinity. Hence the hairy pushback. Today, men across a spectrum of race, class and political belief are growing and maintaining beards to signify their masculinity and identity. Thus, the beard is as much a mark of male vulnerability as it is a symbol of male pride.

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ALBERTO

SALVADOR Hair: Alberto Salvador @ Salvador Fashion & Creative Hairstyles Photographer: Alfredo J. Llorens Makeup: Ángeles Abel Models: Hugo Soriano, Álex Bolance, Aitor Carroza & Guillermo Serrano

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// Column

CHRIS FOSTER The FOCUS method A great professional joy l have is helping hair professionals cut through their frustrations — helping them build their personal story of success. As a hair professional, you may be the best in the business, but if you communicate your skill to a large audience, it will be very difficult to gain the respect from your peers. Excellent communication skills are key to becoming the ‘go to’ expert in the industry. One thing you must be able to do effectively is communicate your passion. Whenever you are teaching in a classroom full of students or on a big stage, being a strong communicator is extremely important. Me, on stage... dread! I get it, being asked to present to an audience is ranked as the number one fear on the planet — higher than snakes, spiders, and even death. When we are in front of an audience we feel completely exposed. There is nowhere to hide, literally all eyes and ears are on you. Hence the utter dread. I completely get it because I was that person — the one that is as nervous as hell. But over the years I began to build up confidence. Personally, I’ve had the privilege of presenting at some of the largest hair shows and stages around the world. Now that confidence wasn’t there when I first started in the industry, but like I said you learn to develop new skills. Now, I would love to share with you a few strategies that will help you on

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your journey to becoming an iconic industry professional. When information is unorganised in your mind the presentation will feel extremely stressful and unstructured. These five steps will help you focus on delivering great content on time and on target with focus. Five steps for creating presentation content with F-O-C-U-S. Firstly, F is for First Impression. Research shows you have about three seconds to convince an audience to listen to you or pay attention to your presentation. That means your image — and any image you choose — is extremely important. Think hard about what will capture the audience’s attention and keep it. Take a lot of consideration on how you dress, what your model is wearing and how eye-catching the information or education you are presenting is. O is for Opening. This builds on the importance of the First Impression. If the first three seconds has made the audience stop and listen, you certainly don’t want to risk losing them. Engagement is key, start asking questions that are relevant to your topic and are rhetorical. Seek to solicit a response from your audience regularly within your presentation. Get them to take action physically… raise your hands if you have a problem with X? If you have the same problem with Y I have said or me. You want to give a compelling introduction that grabs your audience, reinforces that information, so they take action. This increases your audience engagement and connection, which makes you more memorable from the start and keeps the audience listening. When it comes to engaging your audience if the title is a ‘teaser’ the Opening is the ‘clincher’. C is for Central Idea. Here’s the honest truth — bad content is almost always cluttered and unclear. It has loads of information, but no

central idea and no direction. Killer content, however, always has ONE and only ONE central idea. If you have two central ideas, you need to create two separate pieces of content. Ask yourself: “what is the one thing my audience must know, think, feel, or do after listening to this presentation?” If you answer that question clearly, your presentation will be successful. Now, a few years ago I stumbled across a book that helped me focus on the central point concept. That book was called Mind Map by Tony Buzan. In this book, Buzan lays down the concept of Mind Mapping — the method of recalling and organising information easily. Write your topic in the centre of a piece of paper in a cycle. Then, like a tree trunk with branches radiate out the key images, thoughts, and words you wish to address. This will give your mind the whole picture of what you need to present without forgetting the topic and subjects you wish to cover. U is for Useful Logic and Illustrations. Think of this as the ‘points’ that are built to support your Central Idea — the meat of your presentation. This is where you can add colour and clarity to your topic. This three-pronged approach should always reinforce the central point and feedback to your Central Idea, and then share stories, examples or action steps to get people to the main topic. Finally, S is for Strong Conclusion. You need to finish strong. Don’t simply end with your last point. Remind the audience of the logic of your presentation. Review what they’ve learned, or the steps they should take to put this in action. F.O.C.U.S applying FOCUS, you will create amazing presentation content that draws your listeners in and keeps them coming back for more every single time. Oh, did I say finish strong... BOOM!


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// Column

KIPP EVANS Glory in Germany for Jacks of London barber Standing up in front of other barbers is terrifying and exhilarating, but the buzz and excitement of competing is worth it for keeping your skills sharp and your mind sharper.

and fellow Jacks barber Paul Morgan, who is phenomenal, so I definitely wasn’t cocky. In fact, I was stunned when I heard I was only one of two barbers from England heading out to the finals in the German city. Between getting through and the actual competition I had just six weeks to prepare, but there was a major problem; for the first three or four weeks I had

Since getting back from three years of travelling in early 2018 and joining Jacks of London in London’s Clapham Junction, I’ve been able to enter practically every competition I can, because Jacks backs me up, financially and emotionally. They even give me time off. This has given me the freedom I need to really go for it, because, let’s face it, entering competitions, stage work, and such can be expensive. This first year, I’ve got to the finals of every competition I entered, with the most stressful one happening in Nuremberg last October. The International Barber Awards has only been going a few years but it attracts entrants from all over Europe. And they are the best. They fly in with their models and their teams, determined to make a name for themselves at the highest level possible. I flew in with just my girlfriend and camera phone. It started earlier this year when I sent an image for the first round of the IBAs. By August I was in the English finalists in London and the pressure was on. The worst of it was being up against my mate

no idea what I’d be asked to do. It took ages to get details and when they came through, I was a bit stuck. First round I needed to do a full-head shave and a beard trim on the same model, while in the second I was to do an “on trend” look. IBA organiser 1o1BARBERS sourced me a model for the first round. I was happy. I really didn’t think I’d get through to round two so I wasn’t going to waste time worrying about a model. I decided I’d just wing it.

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My girlfriend, Sophie and I flew in on Saturday and met up with some of the other competitors. They came from all over Europe – Greece, Sweden, Bulgaria, and more. It was cool. But I was nervous. Next day, I was up early to prepare. I made sure all my tools and equipment were spotless and sharp – every good barber takes care of his kit. I reckon that was one of the reasons I did so well. The judges really scrutinised my workspace and my practice. Some of the guys didn’t even put gloves on for the shave. Once the clock started, I was so focused I didn’t feel nervous. My hands soon stopped shaking and I knew I was doing a good job. 1o1BARBERS had got me a great model. I won my place in the second round. But I had no model. So I scan the crowd for a possible candidate who’d let me do what I wanted. In a room full of barbers, it wasn’t too hard and I found a great bloke. The brief was to produce a forward-looking style, so I did and then waited to see if I’d made the grade. I had. My name was called out for UK International Barber and then I heard my name again – I got third place overall. Pretty cool, and an excellent end to my first six months at Jacks of London. Standing up in front of my peers to educate for Jacks is easy but I reckon I’ll always be nervous standing up to their scrutiny during competitions. But that’s good, it gets the adrenalin going. Plus it makes winning all the sweeter.


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THE RETURN

OF AN ICON

M

ullets, the controversial haircut synonymous with the 70s and 80s, is making a hard comeback. When you think of the business in the front and party in the back style, it conjures up images of Billy Ray Cyrus, Chris Waddle, and Keifer Sutherland in Lost Boys. They’re iconic, if not a little dated. Mike D of Beastie Boys fame, even commented on the much-maligned style. Writing about the trend in his Grand Royal magazine, published between 1993-97, he said: “There’s nothing quite as bad as a bad haircut. And perhaps the worst of all is the cut we call The Mullet.” There was a brief moment in the 2000s when celebrities began to revitalise the mullet, to make it appealing once again — fashion is cyclical after all. We can all look forward to the comeback of the emo fringe. It didn’t stick around for very long then, but now we’re seeing the trend come around again — albeit with a modern twist. There’s an edgy modernity to the mullet this time around, think more punk than country rock, with barbers taking the basic concept of the mullet and putting their own creativity into its base. Becoming somewhat of a chimera, the mullet has

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mixed with sharp edging, high fades, and faux-hawks to elevate the style. But what prompted the comeback? For a long time, hair trends have seemingly played it a little safe with longer styles, simply adding layers or texture for effect. One theory suggests that the mullet’s renaissance is push back against this, and directly challenges current conventional fashion. Is it the ultimate conclusion to the recent wave of 90s fashion revival? The catwalk work of fashion brands trickling down into mainstream culture cannot be ignored here — such as can be seen with Off-White’s designer, Virgil Abloh. To make sure you make the most of your mullet, we asked Josh McPike of RUM Barbers, Glasgow how he achieved the perfect mullets as pictured: “For business up top, apply sea salt spray to damp hair and finger dry into the desired shape, finish with some matte clay for control and light texture. For the party at the back, after rough drying work texturising volume powder through the mid lengths and ends, scrunching with your fingers to achieve an unstructured, tousled finish. To complete the look just add denim.”


J.M KEUNE // 1922

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WANTED

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INSTAGRAM Showcase Tag @barbernvmagazine to feature your work in our next issue!

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The Social is at the forefront of changing how the hair industry thinks. Creating a world lifestyle studio in true collaborative fashion, based in London and the Lake District encouraging the flexible work ethos of the ‘freelancer’ community. They embrace your sporadic movements and let you take control of your own time, money, and opportunities. With five chairs available or the whole salon and/or the Social Studio, photo studio. Three hair or makeup chairs and two barber chairs. Contact: ky@kycut.co.uk

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SPONSORED BY

// SAM WALL

IN THE CHAIR Last month, e-Chair launched at Salon International in London to rapturous applause. In the e-Chair this month is a barber who has stood by the brand since the very beginning. You may remember Sam Wall’s incredible cover shoot for BarberNV Issue 15. His work saw BarberNV usher in a new era – a more high-end look and style. Since then his career hasn’t stood still for a second. Sam is just back from Behind the Chair in Austen, Texas, where he won the prestigious Big Shot Award. His boundless creativity should be a massive boost to anyone starting out in barbering. His example is one of where the craft can take you and how to better showcase your work. Sam is a figure the next generation of creatives should take note of. His influence is not something to be scoffed at or ignored. BNV: What was it like winning the Big Shot Award? SW: Winning the Big Shot Award was something that didn’t even enter my mind. It was actually a five year goal of mine. To do it on the second time of entering is beyond me. If I’m completely honest it all seems a

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IN THE CHAIR WITH E-CHAIR.COM IS A N E W F E AT U R E G R A C I N G O U R PA G E S . EACH ISSUE BARBERNV BRING YOU SHORT INTERVIEWS WITH SOME OF T H E B E S T I N T H E I N D U S T R Y. ALL SPONSORED BY E-CHAIR.COM. bit surreal still, I’m not quite sure it’s sunk in yet. This has just made me realise that literally anything we put our minds to can be achieved. So my dreams have just become even more absurd! BNV: Who’s been your biggest inspiration? SW: Banksy has by far been my biggest inspiration throughout my life. His political messages are not only powerful, but the way he delivers them and what he stands for is incredible. Banksy has always been able to hide his identity and that’s what I admire most because It’s not about him, it’s all about his work. BNV: How is life on the road? SW: Being on the road is always so much fun. However, being on the road for a long period is more challenging than it looks. Trying to maintain a routine is difficult when you’re fighting off jet lag, long hours, bad diet and living out a suitcase. I always love being on the road, but I have to mentally prepare myself for the intensity. The travel part of travelling can be the toughest part. It isn’t as always as glamorous as it looks, but it certainly is worth every second.

BNV: What can we expect from you in 2019? SW: I have goals set however; I try not to focus too far ahead anymore as anything can happen that could change your path overnight. I just try to have some serious fun day by day and see where my career takes me. I focus on smaller goals and do my best to achieve them every day, which in turn leads on to amazing things in the long run. I’m not sure how I’m going to top 2018, but one thing I promise that I will certainly give 2019 a good go. BNV: What advice can you offer to the next generation? SW: The next generation has a harder job on their hands as the industry is pumping with so many new barbers fighting to be noticed. My advice to those starting out is ‘have patience’. Because those who rush and cut corners might look like they’re succeeding, but without true hard work and continuous learning, they don’t tend to be around for long. Think long term and build your career on concrete not sand. You have to realise that takes time and a lot of it.


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BarberNV Issue 20  
BarberNV Issue 20