BARBERNV ISSUE 19
BarberSociety Live Eighty8
SHABA Kyle Ross David Raccuglia
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I S S U E 19
Born Urban Barbers
Barber Chair Confessions
Barbering & Mental Health
In the Chair with eChair
Swedish Barber Expo
Editor’s Comment Earlier this month BarberNV attended a packed event by American Crew for the launch of their new luxury Acumen range. At the launch, BarberNV had the opportunity to interview American Crew founder, David Raccuglia, as an exclusive on his UK tour and life story. This is also our post-SHABA edition of BarberNV. So, we’re also
In one of our two new regular features In the Chair with e-Chair.
celebrating every single winner who duked it out to emerge as the
com, the BarberNV team will interview the biggest names in the
top in their field, as well as the undeniable talent of all the finalists.
industry, asking them the questions you’ve always wanted answers
BarberNV has been busy covering events across Europe as well, and you’ll find our roundups on Fusion@360, the Swedish Barber Expo and Festival Barber.
to. In a new running series we look at the impact of mental health in the barbering community. Not just the barber’s place as the steward
We talked to Joseph Lanzante about what he believes is the
of men, but individuals breaking the stigmas outside the chair.
next frontier for the barbering industry, and a product he puts his business acumen behind, Scalp Micropigmentation (SMP).
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OPIUM Hair: Marco PM & Ivy Bravo Photography: Mikel Muruzabal Costume Design: Yellow Studio Makeup: Arturo Nuez Models: Pablo, Yonathan, Christian, Jiayuan, RubĂŠn
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Credits Founder Joanne Reid | Editor Matthew McLaughlin | Graphic Designer Fiona Gauld | Graphic Designer Cara Scott | Sales & Marketing Executive Kat Heron Front Cover Kyle Ross Design & Marketing PrintNV | Columnists Chris Foster | Thanks David Raccuglia and American Crew, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Felicty Downes, Chris Foster, Adam Sloan, David Louge, 1o1 Barbers, Spaghetti’s Barbershop, Festival Barber, Barber’s Post, Charlie Gee, Born Urban Barbers, Sam Wall, Neil Turner, Mr Blackman’s, iwoca, Uppercut Deluxe, the Swedish Barber Expo, Joseph Lanzante, Josh O.P, the Movember Foundation, The NHF, Blue Beard’s Revenge, Red Mane Media, LWPR Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 5 Newton Place, Glasgow G3 7PR | Email email@example.com | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and Gallas Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.
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I N D U S T R Y NEWS HAIR AND BARBER COUNCIL The Hair and Barber Council has criticised the Government’s recent decision to cut funding for hairdressing apprenticeship training by 20%. The Hair and Barber Council CEO, Keith Conniford has described the decision as yet another example of the industry being undervalued and of the need for regulation. The decision by the Government to reduce the funding paid for apprenticeship training from £9,000 per student to just £7,000 comes at a time when the hairdressing industry is already struggling to find trainees to take the industry into the future. The news has been met with understandable negativity by those offering apprenticeships. The changes are still to be confirmed but as there is no further right of appeal this is expected to be a formality. According to Keith Conniford, the best way to make the Government aware of the professionalism of hairdressing and barbering is to unite under the banner of a regulated industry through state registration. He said: “Lobbying individual MPs may well help a little, but without a cohesive and joint campaign, I believe we will be in the same position in 10 or 20 years as we have been for decades. We know from experience that lobbying Government as a nonregulated industry is ineffective – look at how the industry has been ignored in relation to lowering the VAT threshold, despite years of lobbying.
AN EVENING WITH ALTER EGO More than 50 hairdressers were invited to an exclusive evening of inspiration and creativity at the Alter Ego Italy academy in Leeds, which saw three top stylists share their cutting, colouring and styling trends and techniques. UK creative ambassador Pete Burkill was joined on stage by Gavin McIntyre from G&E McIntyres, Northampton and Ross Charles from Ross Charles salon in York. Gavin presented stunning colours, including pretty pastels using Be Blonde Pastel Toner and the new Booster Colour Intensifier Cream in Vibrant Violet and Bold Blue, before styling it into a bubble ponytail
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ANDIS RELEASES NEW FADE BLADE
To meet the demands of men’s grooming professionals, Andis Company has introduced a new fade blade version of their recently released ProAlloy® adjustable blade clipper - the ProAlloy® Fade. Crafted from carbon steel, the new blade configuration delivers close cutting precision from sizes #00000 to #000 for creating popular fade styles. “As the men’s grooming trend continues to grow, the professional market has been requesting this product enhancement and we listened,” says Andis Senior Manager of Corporate Communications, Bruce Bock. “Adding a dedicated fade blade option to our ProAlloy® clipper provides barbers and stylists with one of the closest-cutting and coolest-running tools on the market today.”
perfect for the festival season. Pete played with texture, taking one model from head-hugging plaits to a voluminous, highly-textured hair statement using colourful wefts. Ross shared his love for men’s grooming with some sharp, modern men’s looks created with the Grooming for Men range, before demonstrating the art of cutthroat shaving, using Alter Ego Italy’s Shaving Milk and After Shave Cream. The evening was hosted by Emily Schofield, Technical Hair Chief at Alter Ego Italy’s UK distributor, Sweet Squared who ensured all three hair maestros shared plenty of useful tips and techniques throughout the evening, as well as giving an overview of the Alter Ego Italy colour and styling products used to create the fantastic array of festival looks.
The ProAlloy® Fade clipper runs cooler and quieter, giving off less vibration than comparable clippers thanks to its patentpending XTR™ Technology. The Extreme Thermal Reduction (XTR) technology runs 35% cooler than other adjustable blade clippers, such as the Andis US Pro. This sleek and stylish tool features contoured alloy housing for durability and comfort, and a powerful high-speed magnetic motor for executing super-smooth fades on all hair types. The ProAlloy® Fade kit includes five attachment combs: #0 (1/16”), #1 (1/8”), #1.5 (3/16”), #2 (1/4”), blade guard and oil. Made in the USA and features a one-year warranty. Discover the new ProAlloy® Fade clipper at www.andis.com. Contact Andis Styling on 01635 279 824 for your nearest stockist. Salon Price: £89.00 incl. VAT
I N D U S T R Y NEWS
WE’LL MAKE BRITISH BARBERING TRAINING THE BEST, SAY BBA
The British Barbers’ Association (BBA) has issued a rallying call to the UK’s barbering educators as it aims to make the industry the best in the world for training.
LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE Tom Chapman’s Lions Barber Collective is turning barbershops into safe spaces for men; using the opportunity of a regular haircut to start conversations about mental health. The group is having an enormous impact on men who traditional mental health services struggle to reach. Tom organises a professionally run training programme, which is teaching barbers to recognise, talk, listen and advise clients and works with the Samaritans charity – signposting the services they offer to clients in need. In recognition of the impact the group is making, Tom has been awarded a Point of Light Award by PM Theresa May. This award recognises outstanding individual volunteers making a change in their community. Tom teamed up with leading British male grooming brand The Bluebeards
Revenge to create a specially branded Hair Gel, with 50p from every tub sold being donated to the charity. Alongside this product, the insides of The Bluebeards Revenge cartons have been rebranded with powerful messages to support The Lions Barber Collective. Suicide is the single biggest killer of men under the age of 45 in the UK and, in 2014 74% of all suicide victims in the UK were male. Previous research suggests that barbers are in a very unique position to help men in their battle with depression. A survey commissioned by the Lions Barber Collective and The Bluebeards Revenge revealed that more than half of the men in Britain now feel more comfortable discussing sensitive mental health issues such as depression with their barbers or hairdressers than their doctors.
Launching their Effective Educator course, the BBA is promising to put world class and internationally recognised training methods within the reach of every barber in the country. Hosted by globally recognised educator and stage presenter Chris Moody, the BBA Effective Educator course will share the secrets of the world’s top industry trainers, giving British barbers the skills and expertise needed to ensure their own training sessions are highlyengaging and successful. Jackie Holian, BBA Strategic Lead, said: “Barbers across the UK are crying out for help on how to make their training even better. And we’re answering that cry, by promising to make British barbering education the best in the world. “With the Effective Educator course, you’ll learn proven adult education methods that produce a culture of effective, collaborative and enjoyable learning that will put you amongst the very best”. The Effective Educator course is a one day course, covering how to quickly connect with an audience, how to stand when demonstrating and observing learners’ body language to understand who needs further help. There will also be guidance on how to effectively plan training sessions, the best ways to review, summarise and cement learning, and advice on the tools needed to create an energised and engaging learning space. For more information or to book your place on our next course, contact firstname.lastname@example.org or call 07553 826582.
change the threshold before 2020. The high level of response to the NHF’s call for evidence however, suggests that long-term things may change. The NHF is currently championing changes that have been called upon by their members, including increasing the VAT threshold for small businesses to £500,000. A measure that would benefit many salons and barbershops UK wide.
NATIONAL HAIRDRESSERS FEDERATION National Hairdressers Federation (NHF) members have demanded reform on VAT registration thresholds, a very hot-button topic among UK hair professionals. The current VAT threshold is £85,000, a total considerably higher than the rest of the EU where VAT falls more in line with average earnings. However, the UK Government has pledged not to
Reducing the rate of VAT on labour-intensive industries, such as hairdressing and barbering where wages are the highest cost of doing business - with little scope for claiming VAT back on products. Some EU member states already pay lower rates of VAT including Ireland (9%), the Netherlands (6%), Poland (8%), Finland (10%) and Luxembourg (8%). NHF Chief Executive, Hillary Hall, said: “The government’s call for evidence is their first step to understanding the key issues and how the current VAT policy affects different sectors. We have responded to this, and to a Treasury Committee enquiry on the same topic, to make sure the voice of the hair and beauty industry is heard loud and clear.”
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AWAY DAYS By Jason Hall
Photography: Desmond Murray Makeup: Jo Sugar Styling Jak Hall
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The eight finalists for the F.A.M.E. Team 2019 have been announced. Eight finalists have been confirmed for 2019’s F.A.M.E. Team, following a day of auditions and interviews.
udging on the day was an acclaimed line-up of experts, all of whom know the Fellowship and F.A.M.E. Team inside out: Karine Jackson Simon Shaw Nick Irwin Errol Douglas MBE Andreas Stavrou Bruno Marc Rick Roberts They were on hand throughout the day, alongside Fellowship Vice Chancellor, Michelle Griffin, who coordinated the event – to watch the semi-finalists at work, judging their character and personality as much as their technical and presentation skills. The 15 finalists were put through their paces during a gruelling day at the Wella Studio, London covering technical ability, teamwork and presentation skills. Starting with an introduction to each other and the judges, the finalists were then challenged to create a model that summed up their signature style. As they presented their finished look, finalists were grilled by the panel on their inspirations, aims, and aspirations. Finally, they split into teams, working together as a group for the first time, to create their own collection in a test of how well they rise to a challenge and are able to work alongside others. The evening presentation, hosted by compère Ashleigh
Hodges, saw finalists present their models to a packed audience of supporters, peers and Fellowship members. Each finalist showcased their work as part of their group, as well as further explaining the inspirations and concepts behind their looks. Between presentations, there was a chance for the current F.A.M.E. Team with their mentor Nick Irwin, to explain more about their year so far. They showcased their latest collection, shot by Rankin, as well as answering Ashleigh’s questions about the incredible experiences they’ve enjoyed together. Nick also revealed the team’s next life-changing experience will be assisting Eugene Souleiman during Paris Fashion Week! After the final presentations, the finalists for the 2019 team were announced by Ashleigh – and will now go on to compete at Salon International for a place on the team. The final four will then be announced at the Fellowship luncheon in December.
AND THE FINALISTS ARE… Brandon Messinger, Zullo & Holland Alastair Jubbs, VAE Hair Ashley Cockrell, Percy & Reed Casey Coleman, Chair Salons Lora Griffin, Simon Webster Hair Kelsey Franklin, Sarai Hair and Beauty Poonam Mehmi, RUSH Westbourne Grove Tania Faenza, Toni & Guy Canary Wharf
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This year’s eighth annual Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards, in association with e-Chair was a massive success - an event as opulent as the Scottish hair and beauty industry deserved. The Glasgow Hilton played host to the event, featuring a decadent three-course meal and intermission entertainment by Britain’s Got Talent’s, Edward Reid, who delivered the right amount of cheese to get the dance floor packed and the crowd painting the ceiling.
he evening was hosted by Errol Douglas MBE and Josie Smith, who have come to every SHABA since the event’s inception. Barbers, hairdressers, beauticians and salon owners took to the stage, staggered by receiving their due adulations – some even stricken by a complete loss for words. Speeches were emotionally charged, hugs and congratulations were exchanged and awards handed over to their rightful recipients. The judging for the barbering categories was tough. Ultimately, this reflects the strength of the Scottish barbering community - an industry constantly soaring to new dizzying heights. This was highlighted on the night of SHABA by a glittering room full of Scotland’s brightest barbering talent. And the barbering category winners are… Winning her second consecutive award, Charley Thomson of Orbit Smoke; who previously won Best Apprentice Barber, can now boast Best Wet Shave, presented by Joseph Lanzante. Orbit Smoke are regulars to the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards, and based on past victories, should be regarded as some of the toughest competition SHABA has to offer. As Joshua Reid, another talented protégé of Angela Dickson was up for Best Apprentice. Best Male Barber shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone. Kyle Ross, the MD of Sovereign (formerly Huntsman) took home the SHABA gold. Kyle is hard-working, respected and a man with the entire industry at his fingertips. His work as a barber is incredible, and the Sovereign is a beacon of coolness in the Granite City. BarberNV Editor, Matthew McLaughlin, handed over the Best Barber Colourist to JP Michael from Rebel Rebel. The young barber was awestruck from the time his name was called, to the post-award interviews. JP’s work speaks for itself however, and it should come as no surprise to anyone that has seen his portfolio why he’s SHABA 2018’s Best Barber Colourist.
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Leigh Nimmo, Co-owner of Barber & Groom, Grunock won Best Female Barber. Leigh has over nine-years experience in the industry. Having worked in some of Scotland’s top salons before working internationally on cruise ships, eventually settling at Barber & Groom in 2016. Incredibly, Leigh also works as a freelance MUA within the fashion industry, working on editorial shoots. Best Barbershop went to Glasgow’s West Barbers, located in the city’s sprawling west end. Another winner was Men’s Emporium, Aberdeen’s Gavin Elphinstone, who took home Best Apprentice Barber. On social media, Gavin said: “Thanks to the people who have helped me get to where I am. I’d also like to thank the people who voted, they know who they are, and it’s very much appreciated.” Finally, it was time for the Lifetime Achievement Award. This award was presented to Adam Sloan who has been a massive influence in the industry for over three decades. He was the first barber in 365 years to be invited to join the Barber’s Guild, which is now populated and run by surgeons and dentists. He has developed textbooks, journals and training videos to support trainees in the industry. He organised the first City & Guilds Barbering Apprentice of the Year, which has now become an annual event. He’s even reaching out to prison educators to support prisoners learning the craft. He tours internationally in his role as the CEO of the Men’s Hairdressing Federation; sharing his knowledge and passion for the industry with everyone he meets. Adam Sloan is an incredible ambassador for barbering, and more than deserving of this accolade. After the final awards were handed to their gladiatorial victors, the procession made their way to the afterparty DJ’d by Michael Kilkie. This marked the end of biggest and best SHABA yet. And, it should go without saying that we’re already anticipating the 2019 instalment.
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INTERNATIONAL BARBER AWARDS 2018 The finalists
t the International Barber Awards, the stage is now set for the grand finale on October 21, in Nuremberg. There are 15 finalists from nine countries that made it to the prestigious finals.
After hundreds of barbers applied online, the organiser 1o1BARBERS invited barbers to the live competitions in London, Oslo, Sofia, Madrid, Vilnius, Zurich, Tirana, Graz, Hamburg, Mannheim, Aalen, Siegburg and in Sete. The barbers showed-off their technical abilities to secure their place in the grand finale of the International Barber Awards. The participating barbers were tasked with a specific challenge. In front of the 1o1BARBERS international jury, entrants were tasked with executing a fade, haircut and a hot towel shave within 75 minutes. During the process the candidates were free to decide whether they wanted to convince their critics with a creative or classical interpretation on the fade. Further criteria, such as full compliance, structure, organisation, order in the workplace, hygiene and the overall appearance of the barber were included in the final score. At the grand finale participants will have to prove themselves live on stage in two disciplines. In the past three-years, the International Barber Awards have become a highlight for barbers from all over the world. As well as becoming a press and social media magnet. Whether you are a barbershop or salon employee - anyone who devotes all their energy to their clientele and seeks to show the world they are the best in their field are allowed to and should participate. Reigning champion of the International Barber Awards, Kevin Boon, will be present in Nuremberg alongside other industry greats. “I’m looking forward to it, of course I’m curious to whom I hand over the coveted trophy to.” He said. In addition to the attractive winning title, the winners should expect highquality prizes with a value of over €10,000. The Senior Barber Awards will be held on Monday, October 22, for all applicants over 50-years-of-age.
AND THE FINALISTS FOR THE INTERNATIONAL BARBER AWARDS 2018 ARE... Michael Tews - Austria Kreshnik Morina - Kosovo Tsvetelina Gergova - Bulgaria Kyriakos Papadopoulos - Greece Eva Suarez Bua - Norway Jens Engelhardt - Switzerland Navid Sabbaghian - Switzerland Sivo Tamer - Germany Giuseppe De Sanctis - Germany Thomas Boidol - Germany Can Misirra - Germany Roberto Morena - Spain Juan Manuel Perdogones - Spain Kieran Evans - UK Yucel Olmezkaya - UK www.international-barber-awards.com
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Barber Chair Confessions
avid Logue is a barber working in Glenrothes. Recently, David opened his first shop Hár Barber on the high street. There’s a wonderful sense of tradition in his barbershop, which combines traditional aesthetics with an incredible Scottish twist; in the form of a celtic inspired logo. But, David also produces the Barber Chair Confessions podcast. Currently sitting at 13 episodes spread over two seasons, there’s a wealth of podcasts, covering a broad range of topics, but very few covering barbering by an actual barber. BarberNV caught up with David to chat about how he started the podcast and his future ambitions. BNV: Where did you get the idea for Barber Chair Confessions? DL: I’ve listened to podcasts for a few years now. I didn’t think many people did. I wasn’t aware how popular they were until I spoke to clients about them. I always fancied giving it a go, but wasn’t sure what. I like podcasts that don’t follow one theme. I listen to Steve Austin and Chris Jericho’s which are mainly wrestling based, but always have people from different backgrounds so it’s not strictly one topic. They aren’t interview based; it’s two or more people shooting the breeze, and that’s what I wanted to do. Being a barber you meet people from all different walks of life with genuinely funny and interesting stories to tell. As their stories were coming up in the chair, I felt it would be great content for a podcast. BNV: What episode should new listeners start with? DL: I’d say start from the beginning. The podcast is fairly new, so there are only a handful of episodes online and no episode is the same. I’ve had guests like UFC fighter Stevie Ray, ICW Wrestler Andy Wild, GB Paralympian Kieren Steer, to Revolution Barbershops Mark Reynolds and Badlands Barber Owner Grant George. There’s something for everyone. BNV: What was the biggest hurdle in starting the podcast? DL: It wasn’t too difficult setting it up. I got myself a little Dictaphone for recording and some pretty straightforward software for editing. However, the editing is a big job, more than I thought it would be. And with opening my first shop at the beginning of August, the podcast has taken a back seat. I do hope to get back to recording soon, as it was picking up steam. Getting into the top 20 of the comedy charts on the podcast site Podmatic, which I was pretty pleased with. BNV: As a barber and podcast fan, was it always something you wanted? DL: I hadn’t really thought about it. I’m sure there are other podcasts out there that are very similar. There are podcasts for literally anything and everything now, I just hadn’t found one that focused on barbering or the industry.
BNV: Who would your dream guest be? DL: I’d love to chat with the guys from Schorem. I visited their shop once in 2015 and loved it. They’re all just a bunch of characters and will have loads of interesting stories from back in the day and from their travels. And Luis Chevere, he’s a big wrestling fan and has managed to have a few big names in his chair. So, I imagine we’d have a good chat about barbering and the old ‘rasslen business. Oh and the Pissed off Barber, that Instagram account cracks me up! BNV: Do you think being a barber gives you the depth of experience to explore the industry more? DL: I’m not sure, to be honest. I’ve only been in the industry coming up five years, so I wouldn’t say I’m that experienced. It has certainly given me the opportunity to get contacts such as barbers I’ve never met in person, but speak to regularly through social media. That helps explore the industry further that’s for sure. We can’t wait for David to continue with Barber Chair Confessions. You can listen to the podcast on iTunes, Spotify and all good podcast hosting sites.
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Swedish Barber Expo clients for joint celebration of beards and the industry, with over 700 people visiting both events.
eople came from all over Scandinavia for the second annual Swedish Barber Expo, hosted in Stockholm on September 1st - World Beard Day.
Organised by Barber Supplier Nordic, the leading distribution company in Sweden and sponsored by Wahl, Hair Magazine, Fit for Vikings and Andis. The barber industry in Sweden, while still quite small, is growing rapidly. With the main purpose of the event being to foster a barber community. This year’s event included four on stage shows from Andis, Wahl and Fit for Vikings Barber Academy. As well as nine ‘look and learn’ workshops covering basic and advanced barbering techniques. An exhibition area for brands such as UK brand Captain Fawcett, Australia’s The Bearded Chap, Antiga Barbearia de Bairro from Portugal, Barber Furniture from the Netherlands and Victory Crown Barber Co. all they way from the USA. The team from Andis, Mr. Bear Family Barbershop and Fit for Vikings Barber Academy displayed technical showcases at their booths, as well as allowing the participating barbers to use the chairs for a beard competition, which was held later in the evening. The Lion’s Barber Collective and Hair Aid were there to inform and engage barbers about their work, and a charity lottery raised £1,000 for both organisations. The event took place on World Beard Day, held on the first Saturday in September. The beard party, one of the biggest celebrations of World Beard day, organised by barbershop.se kicked off with a beard parade of 200 beards going through central Stockholm to the Tele2 Arena, then the venue. This drew attention from media outlets like CBS News, Reuters, Euronews and the Daily Telegraph. The Swedish Barber Expo and the World Beard Day celebrations are unique events that combine barbers and their
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Five of Sweden’s best barbers competed in a beard trimming competition on stage for the title of Swedish Barber of the Year. Four of the finalists had been selected during the spring in four semi-final rounds to represent each part of the country. The fifth finalist was selected at the event through a wildcard challenge. The barbers were appointed a bearded model and given 45 minutes to trim and style. The jury, led by Jac Ludlow, UK, who judged the barber battle last year, was present on the stage during the competition to score the combatants in seven top-secret criteria. A unanimous jury selected Amin Iranmanesh from Salong Randevu in Gothenburg as the winner. Iranmanesh’s win was secured by his keen attention to detail and extra care given to his client. Head judge, Jac Ludlow, said: “What an excellent competition! This year’s results blew us away. The standard in Sweden continues to grow every year. Congratulations to an amazing professional gentleman, it’s been a pleasure judging you.” The Swedish Beard and Moustache Competition 2018 was announced on stage in four categories: Full Natural Beard, Full Styled Beard, Tight Beard, and Styled Moustache. Jonas Bergkvist, two time winner of the Full Natural Beard, won the title yet again; with the man boasting Sweden’s longest beard, Viktor Erik Jensen as the runner-up. The jury was lead by Stefan Jadefjord, alongside the founders of the beardcare brands Captain Fawcett, UK, Luke Swenson, AUS, Hjörtur Scheving ICE and NOR, and Mr. Bear Family from Sweden. Project Manager for the Swedish Barber Expo, Karin Fahlström said: “We really succeeded this year in creating a meeting place for barbers. People came early in the morning and stayed until late, watching the shows and participating in workshops. The event was well-loved on social media with pictures, Instagram stories, live streaming, and barbers hashtagging and congratulating the winners of the competitions. This event will have a really positive effect on the growing barber community in Sweden!” For more information on the event check out the social media boom at #swedishbarberexpo #worldbeardday @barbersupplierse @beardshopse
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Festival Barber A
t the Festival Barber, barbers, educators and suppliers the world over descended on the Castello Di Santa Severa, just north of Rome.
The Festival Barber was a master-class in education from some of the most renowned barbers in the industry. With the likes of Alan Beak, Leah Hayden Cassidy and Josh Lamonaca sharing the stage. Looming tall over the Mediterranean coastline just 50 miles north of Rome, the Castello Di Santa Severa housed the spectacular one-day event. Matching the prestige of the venue with the talent was a challenge. But, hats off to Cesare and the Spaghetti’s Barbershop organisers for bringing Festival Barber to the world. Globally-renowned educator Kevin Luchmun, a man with worldly experience in modern and old-school barbering hosted the event. If there’s anything you managed to learn from him,
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then it was well worth the trip to Italy alone. And, personally, we think Festival Barber, even with all that’s been said, was an event very difficult to rival in terms of the calibre of individuals, location and organisation. At the awards portion of Festival Barber, Josh La Monaca won the award for Best Educator, Julius Ceasar won Best Influencer and host of the day Kevin Luchman won Best Presenter! Festival Organiser Cesare: “The Festival Barber was a memorable event that will live on in our collective memories for years. The event has been recognised by some of the greatest in the world and really was a unique event that is one of a kind. “Many of the seminars, stage performances and techniques have never been seen before! Now the planning begins again. Where will the festival be held next year and who will be there? Who knows, heat rises!”
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The Barber Post Fusion@360
t’s a fairly overcast Sunday in Glasgow when the BarberNV team headed to Barber Post’s full-day event, Fusion@360 at St. Luke’s and the Winged Ox. There are few venues in Glasgow as suitable to house such an incredible event. Gorgeous light cascaded from the monolithic satined glass bathed the barbers already on stage demonstrating their prowess as we enter. As in life, education in barbering is paramount to growth and progress, and this is what Fusion@360 is about. The atmosphere at Fusion@360 is electric, and with a venue full of talent it’s easy to see why. The audience was exceptionally attentive, hanging on every word and clipper stroke of those barbers showcasing their process. The MC paused the cutting to chat with barbers between motions; allowing the barbers to walk the audience through their work. Before moving the audience back to engaged and pondered silence. Angela Dickson, Owner of Orbit Smoke, spoke candidly about mental health in barbering. Crucially when it’s okay to say you aren’t okay. These sentiments are so important to the community at large, as we’ve covered; the barber is the sympathetic ear men need. But Angela Dickson asked “who is there to look after the barber when poor mental health strikes?” Yuzel Olmezkaya, who has just won his qualifying round for 1o1BARBER’s International Barber Awards, shared his own story of personal and mental struggle. There’s a lot of reverence in the ability to be so candid. He spoke eloquently about darker periods of his life, all the while showcasing why he’s considered one to watch in the industry. He said: “I feel quite honoured and blessed to be able to share my knowledge with the people here today.” Next, Joseph Lanzante delivered a rip-roaring seminar on the modern barber, highlighting where he believes barbering will eventually go. Looking at men’s hair loss treatments to increase profits within the industry, as the man experiencing hair loss
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is usually not a market barbers have a stake in. However, Scalp Micropigmentation is a product Mr. Lanzante is keen to disseminate throughout the industry - to maximise a barber’s potential income. Jimmy McAulay of Glasgow’s own Urban Funk, described to BarberNV what it feels like being on stage and showing your craft. He said: “I love working these kinds of events. It keeps the industry going and gives you a wee buzz. It gives you something you’re not used to doing. It’s good to do something that puts you out of your comfort zone and makes you feel like a junior again.” Tommie and Vincent from Scotland’s own Hard Grind took to the podium to show-off exactly why their brand has become an industry heavyweight. Their stage presence and abilities are trained to such a fine point, and the wonder-pair played-off each other as if it were second nature. It’s hard to imagine them not being on stage. Vincent took on a longer style, flexing his fabulous precision scissor work. While Tommie worked on an entirely contrasting style, shorter hair with a graduated fade; featuring hard lines and an incredible asymmetrical fringe. All of which the crowd were invited and encouraged to get a closer look at. If you weren’t at Fusion@360 it should be clear from the line-up that Barber Post hosted a fantastic bash. It was an opportunity to learn the delicate intricacies of various techniques, from some of the biggest and most inspiring names in the UK industry. Then, a chance to mingle once a very success Fusion@360 had concluded. And here’s to many more to come. Raymond Simons, who organised the event, told BarberNV: “The event was a great tribute to all the hairdressers and barbers that showcased what Fusion was about. As a spectacle it was great to watch as the education was first class. “I couldn’t have asked for better people on the stage. It made me proud to be part of a great industry with so much talented people. Thank you to everyone who took part.”
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MR. BLACKMAN’S: IT’S TIME FOR MEN TO STOP SETTLING Mr. Blackman’s is a brand designed specifically with the urban gentleman in mind. There aren’t a great many products for men with Afro, curly, frizzy or mixed race hair. Often men will be forced to rely on products designed not for them, but for women - always having to settle. Then along came a product, touting the mantra “all beards aren’t equal.” Seeing an obvious and arguably neglected gap in the grooming and beard care market - Mr. Blackman’s was born.
“This is not a phase. It’s the revolution. Join it.”
r. Blackman’s is more than a phase, more than just circus branding for a homogenised market - there are roots. Mr. Blackman’s has a lot of qualities deserving of adulation. They don’t test on animals, don’t use excessive package and “ain’t about using nuff chemicals either.”
“I knew a little about plants and have always believed that nature provides much of what we need. If you understand how to use it,” Mr. B said. “Handmade the same way I always have. Inspired by home, using natural products, free of things nature never intended us to use.” The island heritage of the brand still runs deep. Using all natural ingredients, no excessive plastics or packaging, these are all values Mr. Blackman’s takes from their makeup. Everything produced by Mr. B is Earth conscious, multipurpose and works hard. The beard care company’s latest collaboration is with the legendary Caribbean distillery, Mount Gay Rum. Truthfully, this is the brand’s second collaboration with Mount Gay; the first being last year when they released moustache wax and beard balm to coincide with Movember. Mount Gay was the perfect collaborator for a brand in which, small island heritage permeates so deeply. Mr. Blackman’s started in September 2016, born in the Caribbean, made in England. Since their initial product launch in the UK, the brand has gone from strength to strength. Now sporting two sizes of beard oil, three fragrances, two sizes of beard and aftershave balm and moustache wax in conjunction with Mount Gay in lime & mint. The new Mr. Blackman’s and Mount Gay beard oil is the perfect addition to the brand’s product menu and your grooming regime. With the fresh, cooling scent of freshly squeezed lime and handpicked mint, this collaboration is going to keep you feeling refreshed every minute of the day.
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Barbicide - No pretender Every client, every time
EDITOR’ S COMMENT Need rejuvenation, fledgling brands, or incredible new lines from the biggest in industry? As always, we’ve got products all the most essential products the modern man could want and need!
Acumen 24hr Hand and Body Hydrator Designed with men in mind, American Crew’s luxurious products are tailored for masculine grooming needs. From the award-winning label’s new collection the 24hr hand and body hydrator is infused with a signature AC ACUMEN™ COMPLEX – perfect for when you’re in a hurry to get out the door. £22 selfridges.com
Uppercut Deluxe 10 Years of Staying Power Deluxe Pomade A name now synonymous with pomade, after 10-years in existence Uppercut Deluxe are releasing a limited edition variant on their branding. The brand created a product that holds hair perfectly, while giving definition and shine to suit so many classic men’s haircuts. £17 - 100ml uppercutdeluxe.com
Reuzel Groom & Grow Tough & Tumble 3lack Lava Pomade Infused with Moroccan Lava Clay, not only makes this pomade a black color, but it has an amazing ability to increase holding power, while nourishing your scalp. 03 Black Lava also has an outstanding performance on hair volume boosting. $22 toughandtumble.com
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The Groom & Grow gift set from Reuzel is perfect for Christmas stocking fillers. Featuring the scumbag brands Beard Foam and Balm, the set has amazing value. The set is a limited edition product, so make sure to grab yours before they’re gone. £18.99 reuzel.co.uk
RUGER. Sea Salt Spray The smell of coconut and memories of being by the beach, the RUGER. Sea Salt Spray pulls moisture from the hair, drying and expanding it - creating a fuller and more textured look. Blow dried into wet hair or left to dry, the look is soft, natural and thicker hair.
Andis ProAlloy Fade Crafted from carbon steel, the new blade configuration delivers close cutting precision from sizes #00000 to #000 for creating popular fade styles.
Mr Blackman’s Mount Gay Lime and Mint Beard and Shave Oil Cool things down with the Mount Gay Rum and Mr Blackman’s beard and shave oil collaboration. A refreshing blend of fresh lime and hand picked mint reinvigorates both skin and hair, banishing frizz and fighting split ends.
MUG Daily Moisturiser An ultra anti-aging moisturiser, which provides 24hr hydration whilst diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Skin loving antioxidants encourage cell regrowth and regeneration. Your skin will be thoroughly hydrated whilst looking fresher, firmer and tighter.
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Rebels Refinery Rehab Roller Under-eye Moisturiser Take your eyes to rehab with this natural roll-on eye moisturiser from Rebels Refinery, which works to reduce puffiness as well as dark circles. What you do with your late nights is entirely your business… £11.50 Themodernman.co.uk
Lockhart Goon Grease Goon Grease is formulated for heavy hold and superior shine. Real pomade for the scary fellas from the wrong side of the tracks, perfect for pompadours, jelly rolls, slick backs, and everything in between! £14.95 newmen.co.uk
Apothecary 87 Beard Oil The Apothecary 87 Beard Oil is a leave in beard conditioner rich in natural, plant based essential oils. Designed to nourish and soften the hair and moisturise the skin, reduce irritation and allow for healthy growth. The Beard Oil was a launch product for the brand, and still a strong staple today. £9 - 10ml apothecary87.co.uk
Bearded Rapscallion Finest Beard Comb These gorgeous, and individually crafted beard combs are one of a kind and bespoke products for the modern discerning gentleman. £34.99 thebeardedrapscallion.com
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Two men’s skincare essentials to revitalise your daily grooming routine. Scientifically formulated, the Ice-Cool Foaming Shave Gel smoothly moulds to the face for a clean, close shave. While the woody and citrus notes and dual cleansing of the Active Hair & Body Wash leaves your skin feeling clean and hair soft and manageable.
Elemis Handsome Heroes Gift Set
Organic Colour Systems Control Clay Organic Colour Systems’ Control Clay is a firm hold styling product, designed to give hair a sculpted texture with a matte finish. Ideal for adding definition, Control Clay is well suited to shorter styles and for soothing irritated or sensitive scalps. £13.95 glasshouseshop.co.uk
Barber Mind Ocean Hair Grooming Tonic Milan based brand, Barber Mind, has made a modern styling tonic with panthenol and Japanese camellia oil. All while sporting a masculine fragrance. £16 - 250ml barberblades.co.uk
IdHAIR BLACK Christmas Gift Set For super stylish men, the IdHAIR BLACK Christmas gift set is perfect, containing products from the recently launched IdHAIR BLACK range. Products in the set include a Total Hair Body & Shave Shampoo, Fiber Wax and the Energy Deodorant Stick, as well as a free gift bag. £24.99 idhairuk.com
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Furniture & Equipment
Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer The Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer will change your morning routine forever. Enlisting the help of some of the world’s top hair stylists and engineers, Dyson have created a product that is light-weight, efficient and easy to use, yet still delivers powerful drying and styling results every day. £299.99 johnlewis.com
Kasho Design Master Series 6in 38 Teeth B Type Offset Texturiser Scissor
Takara Belmont Apollo 2
These texturisers are available in two different styles, with the cutting blade on the top or the bottom, and with 15, 30 or 38 teeth. All models feature ergonomically contoured handles with finger rest and the Kasho tension adjustable screw system.
With the original Apollo 2 and new variations in the form of the Elite and Icon, this iconic grooming chair dynasty by Takara Belmont continues to evolve with the addition of an optional heel-rest for optimum client comfort and and even more traditional appeal.
From £2,035 takarahairdressing.co.uk
Vintage Striped Gown Madison Barber Unit Exceptional value for money – timeless design featuring a durable glass top and two handy drawers. £325+ VAT barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk 01455 553 558
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Light and durable with a classic design and easy clip fastening. £13+ VAT barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk 01455 553 558
N E W Apollo 2 Icon with Classic heelrest: head to heel forever iconic.
Hair James Beaumont George Alderete Gareth Palmer Models Jonathan Normolle Jacques Compaan Photography Roberto Ligresti Makeup David Maderich Fashion Styling Rod Nova
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Barbering & Mental Health - Part One -
ne in four people will experience poor mental health in their lifetimes. It’s not just a crisis, but an epidemic. Samaritans figures show that in the UK as a whole, men are three times more likely to lose their lives as a result of suicide than their female counterparts, a figure higher than the national average in Northern Ireland. Writing for the Independent in 2017, Tom Chapman suggested that barbers could potentially hold the key to preventing male suicide. Chapman who founded The Lions Barber Collective, a charity group designed to raise awareness and help men with their mental health on a global scale. Barbershops have long been viewed as a safe space for men. To reference Marvel’s Luke Cage, they’re akin to Switzerland – a place to vent without fear of judgement. Barbers, in one way or another act as a sympathetic ear, a pseudo-psychiatrist, listening to the trials and tribulations of their customers, offering up advice where able. But, who is there to listen to the barber? Who is the psychiatrist’s, psychiatrist? Working with poor mental health can be debilitating, not just in regards to employment, but permeating through every facet of a person’s life. In a new running feature series in BarberNV, we’ll be talking to barbers the length and breadth of the globe, asking them how mental health has affected their working and personal lives. On working with anxiety, Counselling Directory member Dawn Templeton said: “Anxiety can affect absolutely anyone. Although it can cause a huge amount of distress and lack of confidence, it is actually a completely natural physical, chemical and emotional reaction to high levels of stress. The symptoms of anxiety can radically affect your business and personal life, in turn creating further stress.” However, in this assumption, we ignore that the barbering community, and indeed the clientele are not all male or maleidentifying. Felicity Downes is a hairdresser-turned-barber living in New Zealand who has struggled with mental health issues from the age of 16 to 25. Turning her struggles on their head, Felicity has taken up the task of organising a massive charity event to raise better awareness of mental health issues. As she too has been forced to confront underlying issues of her own mental health head-on, she said: “After having psychiatry, I recognise the signs and symptoms, I now know how to cope and deal with initial symptoms and use tactics to prevent myself from falling back into the trap. Earlier on this year, I went to bed
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really early and woke up a few hours later in the night having suicidal thoughts, which I hadn’t experienced for a few years. “I was sobbing in my pillow and didn’t know what to do with myself. I took some time to decide who I needed to reach out to. There was one friend of mine that came to mind and as I was in New Zealand, I knew my friend would be awake back in the UK. So, I typed away to him. Luckily for me, he was there on the other end of the phone typing back to me.” Felicity told BarberNV that without her friend on the other end of the phone she wouldn’t have been able to sleep, and those emotions would have grown to be far more intense. Although, mental health struggles don’t simply affect her sleeping, as she told us: “Mental health issues overtook and consumed my life, I was a walking zombie on autopilot. Being a hairdresser at the time, I had to put on a front. It felt as if I was acting out a character, one that was the total opposite of what I was really feeling and wishing to express. I would sit in my room just crying and crying, feeling numb and not knowing why I felt the way I did. “When I was in an unhealthy relationship, I drank way too much and even took recreational drugs when socialising to manage situations.” Felicity also experienced recurring and enfeebling headaches and migraines. “I moved away from the hair industry for a few years and worked for a health insurance company. During this time I ended up taking time off work due to my depression and anxiety,” Felicity said. “When I was hairdressing I always felt I couldn’t take time off work as my colleagues and clients were relying on me to show up. If I didn’t, I knew that could put my colleagues under the pump to squeeze my clients in. I never wanted to cause hassle. Working in an office, I didn’t feel under pressure to turn up as there was no reliance on me.” However, she notes that without these experiences she would not be the person she is today; a person who wants to use her own narrative to help others see the light at the end of an alltoo-often pitch black tunnel. It’s because of these harrowing experiences that Felicity is organising a project to try and get men to open up more about their mental health and contribute to reducing male suicide rates. Projects such as Felicity’s are crucial, especially in countries like New Zealand where the suicide rate is encroaching on twice that of the UK. This is according to figures
produced by the New Zealand government in 2017. Felicity’s concept of 1,000 barbers cutting 1,000 heads of hair, all to raise awareness for men’s mental health, is inspirational, to get men of generations new and old to celebrate their emotions, rather than simply appearing stoic and pushing themselves further into dangerous mindsets. Her influences for the project, for which she has global aspirations, are based on the Rockin 1,000 viral video of 1,000 musicians playing Learn to Fly by Foo Fighters, originally organised by Fabio Zaffagnini and Derek Sivers’ TED Talk How to Start a Movement. “I put these videos together and boom, my 1,000 barbers become an idea, a vision,” Felicity told us. “Although there is some movement within the mental health sector, I personally feel it’s not big enough yet. I want to have a ripple effect on the world when it comes to mental health. I feel with these two inspirations, magic can happen.”
With this project, Felicity seeks to bring together men’s health communities and the global barbering community to encourage barbers to become more integrated into men’s mental health, to be the figures Tom Chapman spoke of. “I believe it all comes down to what an individual is experiencing at that moment,” she said, of how to properly tackle mental health struggles. “There are many things I would recommend which I have done to help myself and what I have found helpful but also things I wish I had done.” Barbers may well hold the key to raising awareness for reducing male suicide statistics, and it’s down to the tireless work of individuals within the community like Felicity Downes and The Lions Barber Collective. We can be the source of change, but it has to start now. Follow the event’s Instagram account, @1000barbers, for more information and regular updates.
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Kyle Ross recently won Best Male Barber at 2018’s Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards, as well as being shortlisted for GQ’s Barber of the Year. Fittingly BarberNV caught up with the man ranked as the 35th coolest in Scotland to find out what’s next.
ith over a decade of industry experience as a unisex stylist, but with a passion for barbering Kyle created Sovreign, giving Aberdeen one of the city’s few high-quality male grooming businesses. He’s won both the International Barbering Awards and Scottish Men’s Stylist of the Year. As well as being a brand ambassador for one of the coolest brands on the market, Hanz De Fuko. Fostering a team as passionate as him, all while raising the international profile of Scottish barbering, it’s no wonder Kyle has all these accolades following him. We spoke to Kyle about the re-branding of Huntsman into Sovreign, as well as what still remains to be checked off his career bucket list. The future, as well as the past and present are bright for Kyle Ross. BNV: You’re rebranding Huntsman into Sovereign. How did this come about? KR: I am delighted to reveal that we are expanding and taking that mission to a second Scottish city, details of which will be shared soon. We are ambitious and this is the first step towards realising our dream of rolling out our unique approach to male grooming across the UK. However, in mapping out our strategy, it’s become apparent that trading throughout the UK under the Huntsman name would
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not be possible without facing legal issues in England. From October 1, we will trade as Sovereign – a name we feel embodies our aim to make our clients look and feel their ultimate best. BNV: As you’re opening a new salon, what can we expect? KR: We aim to replicate the same ethos we’ve been developing to date. The Sovereign experience is more than just a haircut. Your hairstyle has to suit everything about you. The way you dress yourself, your lifestyle, how much time you have to spend in your day, your skill with a hair dryer and brush, your willingness to learn to maintain your hairstyle – the list of what we factor into tailoring every hairstyle is endless. The team we have is growing rapidly, with people passionate about hair and about delivering the complete service. We’re continually recruiting and training new apprentices who are the future of our brand. BNV: Are you expecting the next salon to be very different from Aberdeen? KR: Aberdeen is a unique city, due to the prominence of the oil and gas industry, it almost has its own economy different to the rest of the United Kingdom. New cities will each bring their own unique challenges, however we are excited looking ahead at what Sovereign can offer wherever we are located. BNV: How was winning Best Male Barber at SHABA?
KR: It’s a great feeling to pick up any award, but the SHABA’s in particular mean a huge amount to me. There were some hugely talented guys in my category, so to come away with a win was tremendous. The whole night was fantastic, and for Sovereign and the team to be shortlisted in six different categories was a great achievement for all of us. BNV: What’s your partnership with Hanz De Fuko been like? KR: I’ve been a massive fan of Hanz De Fuko since I first discovered them. When I was approached to be their UK/EU brand ambassador I jumped at the opportunity. Our working relationship is still young, but we have some exciting projects in the pipeline. Hanz De Fuko, while a relatively young brand, have already broken America and have a cult celebrity following. We’re just about to host the first UK based event, which I will be heading for them at BEAST in Covent Garden. It’s a week-long event focused on education and generating awareness of this great brand, and it’s the first of many exciting things we’re discussing over the upcoming year. We’re going to be teaming up with some other great brands across the UK and Europe. The demand for the brand brings endless possibilities for what we can do. So, when we have everything finalised I’ll make sure you’re the first to know! BNV: We know you’ve started opening early to suit your clients. Has this improve customer retention? KR: The response to our introduction to earlier openings has been greatly received. Many of our clients are businessmen with extremely busy schedules who struggle to squeeze in appointments. They are not 9-5 people, and neither are we. If you can go to the gym at 7am, why shouldn’t you be able to get a haircut? BNV: How does it feel to be the 35th coolest person in Scotland? KR: This was something I was blown away by. I grew up in a small village in the North East of Scotland, so when I got an email from the Herald saying they wanted to include on their list of Scotland’s 100 Coolest People, I had to read it
twice to believe it. I don’t particularly think of myself as being cool, but someone somewhere did, so I’m Just going to roll with it. BNV: Is there anything on your bucket list left to do during your career? KR: At present my sole focus is Sovereign. We have an incredible team put together, both on the shop floor and behind the scenes. We’ve set out goals and ambitions of what we intend to achieve, so a bucket list would only provide a distraction from that at present. However, one of the great things about this industry is that you can literally take it anywhere in the world. So, if one day I could use my profession to see more of the world, then it’s something I’d consider one day. BNV: How important is education to you and your brand? KR: Massively! We pride ourselves on providing a second to none service. To tailor a hairstyle to the individual needs of a client requires knowledge. We require our team to not only obtain that knowledge but to share it with the guy in your chair. Let them know why you have cut their hair the way you have, and how it will benefit them. Teach him how to maintain that style, if it’s a style that needs to set using a hair dryer and a brush, show him how to. To work in this way needs to be taught. I’ve had to re-teach some of my team away from what seems to be the industry standard approach to a hair service. This is where apprenticeships excite me at Sovereign. We get new stylists in the team who come in as a blank canvas that we can mold into working the Sovereign way. BNV: If you could give advice to yourself when you first started in the industry what would you say? KR: Don’t let anybody tell you that you can’t do something. I’ve met opposition to ideas, plans and opinions that I’ve had throughout my career, which if I had listened to I would never have achieved what I have to date. Opposition can come in a variety forms, it can come from risk averse friends and family who don’t want to see you fail, or from people for one reason or another that want to see you fail. But, if you have a vision of what you want to do and you fully believe in it then follow it through, you’ll regret it if you don’t.
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Hair by Kyle Ross
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INSTAGRAM Showcase Tag @barbernvmagazine to feature your work in our next issue!
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Born Urban Barbers G
iving customers a great environment, service and product is the cornerstone of running any successful business; let alone successful barbershop. Charlie Gee, a 23-year-old barber and owner of Born Urban Barbers delivers just this. Owning and operating a high-end men’s salon at such a young age is a mark of Charlie’s skill, grit, and business sense. Charlie began his fledgling career attending the London School of Barbering, before getting the opportunity to work alongside Greg Mccerlane, Laurence Fo and Reuban Joesph in Milton Keynes. The group helped Charlie cut his teeth in the industry and, he said, he owed a lot to as mentors. But, after working 10-11 hour days, commuting and cutting his friend’s hair at home, it all began to take a toll, despite giving Charlie a great foundation and work ethic. Charlie describes to BarberNV the duel excitement and anxiety of opening Born Urban. He said: “It was scary! As soon as the lease was signed it all felt very real, very quickly. Being only 21-years-old and in a position that if all goes pear-shaped, it could financially ruin you is daunting. But, deep down I knew if I could just get people through the door they would keep coming back every time. I was willing to do anything it took to make it work. Nothing could deter me.” Born Urban Barber is the ultimate culmination of Charlie’s hard work and currently houses seven full-time barbers. “I honestly believe that we have some of the most talented barbers in the industry,” Charlie told BarberNV. “The next step is to take Born Urban to new towns and cities; allowing our top barbers to build the brand further afield.” The biggest goal of Charlie’s career now is to open as many doors for his staff as he can - all by taking the passion he has woven deeply into Born Urban to as many locations as possible. The shop itself is a perfect reflection of Charlie’s vision; crisp white walls are accented with bare brickwork, uniform chairs, and airy full-length windows creating a light and luxurious space for men. The aim of Born Urban was to create a modern salon for men; something Northampton sorely lacked. But, take one look at Born Urban’s Instagram account and you can see the care in which Charlie curates his space. Many of you reading will understand the potential perils and pitfalls of opening your own barbershop. Perhaps not at such a young age, but again this is a glowing endorsement of Charlie’s business acumen. Charlie told us: “It’s a lot more work than I ever thought it would be, but I wouldn’t change it for anything. Being 23-years-old and running a business isn’t without sacrifice however, and sometimes missing out on things is necessary and inevitable due to work commitments. But, loving what you do is really important, that way, ‘missing out’ doesn’t really feel like missing out.
“I think It’s too early to say exactly what I’d do differently, I’m sure if you ask me again in two years I’ll be able to tell you. But the thing I would say is you really need to master your craft before going it alone and even then keep learning. When I first opened I was really put through my paces. Being the only one in the room it felt like a lot more weight on my shoulders. This was a learning curve in itself. Since then I decided to never stop learning.” Charlie also told us none of the success would have been possible without his mum and girlfriend. “My biggest obstacle is probably learning to switch off from work mode. I love it so much it really doesn’t feel like work, but downtime is needed, apparently,” He said. “Luckily, I have my mum and girlfriend to remind me to take some time out and recharge every now and then. Keeping a work-life balance is really important and it’s something I’m starting to make sure I get the hang of. It’s amazing what a few days off can do.” And finally, to any young barber looking to open their own business, Charlie has some parting words of wisdom. He said: “Get into a good shop and work your socks off. Find a barbershop you can really connect with. If that shop opens doors for your career then you’re onto a winner. I predict we’re about to see some super brands emerge from the male grooming industry. So finding the right place to work, learn and hopefully progress through the business is essential. “If you feel like you’ve outgrown your workplace, and want to go alone, be prepared for a lot of work, little sleep and an emotional rollercoaster. But, if you work hard enough and truly believe in yourself it’ll all be worth it. The barbering and male grooming industry is a great place to work at the moment, and I can’t see it slowing down. Young people are the future, and it’s up to us to keep this industry moving forward. I hope you have found some of this useful and good luck!”
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BUILD YOUR BARBERING EMPIRE with iwoca
In 2012, Christoph Rieche and James Dear launched iwoca, which is transforming small business lending by offering fast and flexible credit facilities to small and medium-sized enterprises across Europe. It offers up to £200,000 for small businesses, which can be approved and transferred by iwoca within a matter of hours. Since their launch, iwoca has completed close to 62,000 transactions, amounting to almost £550 million, to around 21,500 businesses in the UK, Germany and Poland. iwoca also holds itself as one of the fastest growing credit providers in Europe and aims to help the growth of over a 100,000 small businesses in the next five years. There are around 17 million small businesses in Europe with fewer than ten employees. In the UK, a majority of small businesses feel underserved and undervalued by traditional lenders, with over 60% reporting a lack of financial backing from their banks. iowca’s main product offering has been designed to fit the needs of these small to medium-sized businesses who are looking to cover cash flow gaps, make short-term investments or purchase fastmoving stock. It only takes a couple of minutes for small businesses to apply online. An offer is made to you within hours, thanks to a cutting edge risk model used to evaluate applications. But, how would iwoca benefit the UK barbering industry? To find out we asked Champs Barbers in
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London how the finance company was able to help them. Champs Owner, Ian said: “iwoca work with that small businessman, that small entrepreneur, that hardworking businessman who’s starting up on his own and hasn’t got the backing, and they make it easier for guys like me. “Opening up a shop, a business, it’s not just barbering, it’s not just cutting hair. As you get older and you say to yourself “this is my career”, it’s not easy. It’s all about trust. iwoca engage with their customers, making it more personal. You can put a voice to them; you know that there’s someone who cares about your business on the other end of the phone. The banks gave me a waiting time of two weeks just for an appointment, but iwoca was there instantly.”
“iwoca changed my life!” It’s easy to see why working with iwoca would be so advantageous for the smaller businessman. A barber just starting out on their own - looking to finance their first shop, or start their own small line of branded products. iwoca Co-founder and Chief Executive, Christoph Rieche said: “Barbershops are valued by local communities and critical to the survival of the traditional British high street. Every day, we get to help thousands of smaller businesses, like these, to realise their growth ambitions, as Champs has. By listening to our customers and responding to their
needs, we empower our customers to carry out their plans and take advantage of opportunities quickly. That’s why we aim to fund 100,000 more small businesses in the next five years.” This is a worthy ambition from the fintech company, as barbershops would be part of their core demographic. Their small loans give burgeoning businesses the money, and most importantly the freedom to achieve their dreams. The ease of lending is enough to make this promising, and far less painful than the banks with a much greater sense of care and duty. Small businesses have been chronically underserved by banks since the financial crisis. Since Christoph and James founded iwoca in 2011, the number of business overdraft facilities approved by banks to businesses with less than £2 million in annual turnover has been cut by more than 50 percent, according to UK Finance. Between December 2015 and December 2017, iwoca’s credit line approvals represented the equivalent of 10 percent of the business overdraft market approved by the high street banks. iwoca has been named as the fastest growing SME finance provider in the 18th annual Sunday Times Hiscox Tech Track 100. The company was ranked 30th in the league table, which ranks Britain’s private technology, media and telecoms companies – with iwoca being the only SME finance provider in the top 40. Chief Executive and Co-founder, Christoph Rieche said:”We know that working capital is an important part of any plans to grow a business. While the high-street banks are making it increasingly difficult for business owners to secure that funding, iwoca is expanding what’s possible for them by making finance accessible where and when it’s needed, in hours not weeks.”
“iwoca work with that small businessman, that small entrepreneur, that hardworking businessman who’s starting up on his own and hasn’t got the backing, and they make it easier for guys like me.”
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“Opening up a shop, a business, it’s not just barbering, it’s not just cutting hair. As you get older and you say to yourself ‘this is my career’, it’s not easy. It’s all about trust. iwoca engage with their customers, making it more personal. You can put a voice to them; you know that there’s someone who cares about your business on the other end of the phone. The banks gave me a waiting time of two weeks just for an appointment, but iwoca was there instantly.” Champs Barbers
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-A man who found his flock-
arberNV had the exciting opportunity to sit down for an exclusive interview with a true industry pioneer David Raccuglia, the father of industry mega-brand American Crew.
BarberNV attended the Glasgow leg of American Crew’s UK tour, which saw the brand go from city to city to promote the launch of their new range with luxury retailer Selfridges — Acumen. The evening was a celebration of American Crew’s achievements with the launch of Acumen, as well as featuring a teaser for the brand’s upcoming collaboration with Harley Davidson. David is a natural speaker, a fact that anyone who attended the UK tour would attest, however David is no a-typical
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businessman. He’s a man still very much in love with the industry. Nothing said felt pre-fabricated, instead he slickly glided from question to question with his unique inborn charisma. “Today I have a much different position with American Crew. In the early days it was about prophesying, like a minister going out and trying to find my flock,” David told us. “That was a big part of anything in the 90s, there wasn’t anything like social media. It was very Rock n Roll. We had to do shows and tours and go from city to city. So the discipline was insane.” As we’re sat in the brilliant MADE Academy we’re joined by Rebel Rebel boss Alan Findlay. He and David reminisced about the men’s grooming products of yesteryear. David is a man
keenly aware of history. He easily walked BarberNV through the past 70-years of American barbering history. “If you look back to the barbers of the 50s they made more money. It was a very well funded craft,” David said. “Guys got their hair cut every two weeks; they were very concerned about grooming and looking good. There was no casual ‘just grow your hair out, grow your beard’. Men shaved every day and they got haircuts that were meticulous. My friend’s dad put seven kids through college and had a really nice house in my small town, and I always loved that. “What really hit barbering hard was the hippy, which was more anti-establishment. It’s lovely actually; it was a rebellion that ultimately turned into a fashion. I remember my dad who was like the most conservative man on the planet having hair over his collar. It was historically important for men to have this.” Out with David’s encyclopedic knowledge of modern barbering, he regaled BarberNV on where he and American Crew stand in 2018. He said: “With American Crew I started to put an education system together that wasn’t old school, it was steeped in craft and tradition. But also what I had learned; midcentury, very technical ways of cutting hair. “Then we went out on the road, selling a very small range of products. We only had eight products; I didn’t think we needed anymore – ultimately you do. So that’s how it started and I was
still very educationally focused, and it was always my goal to have barbers make more money. It’s not just about barbers being better at their craft because barbers were always good. To be honest, the barbers were always excellent at barbering, but barbering wasn’t what people were paying money for. “I’m trying to keep the ball moving. I’m really into innovating; I’d like to keep us going. You can’t think where you are right now is going to be forever, it’s not.” David cited the Scottish scenery, for which he made several photography stops on his journey, as well as his friendship with the Rusks as his reasons for loving Scotland. David said: “The UK is hair! If you look at Irving Rusk, who was probably one of the biggest inspirations to me; he epitomised cool to me. With how he dressed and his ideas, I loved every word out of his mouth.” “I’m incredibly blessed. They say until a man has walked through his passions, the fire of his passions is always burning. I’m the lucky one. I got through it and now I’m just having fun; I love it. I see a young, cool hairdresser or barber; I just want to hang out with them and helped them, take pictures of them.” David senses he is being called over for the event’s Q&A, we shake hands and let him finish his preparations. However, we did speak briefly about his return to Scotland, and potential future ideas, but we’ll have to keep this under lock and key for now.
“You can’t think where you are right now is forever – it’s not.” very blessed with finding a flock.” David Raccuglia and American Crew’s ability to stay consistent for almost a quarter of a century is a marvel. But this is not all there is to the man. If you’ve followed his career to any degree you’ll know his passion for photography. David took his phone out of his pocket, producing a video taken during the very first American Crew campaign shoot in 1992. “When I was a hairdresser I carried a Polaroid everywhere and I still have them. I have everything, I’m a pack rat. I just got this today and I think it’s hysterical. It was 1992, it’s a friend of mine who was a photographer and I. He’s the one who really got me into loving photography. “He shot the first campaign for American Crew. We’re still friends, and he went on to have an incredible career in photography; you could never afford him anymore though.” David has shot images for American Crew and Reuzel; as well as portraits for Ray Charles and Yoko Ono. This leads David onto his inspiration for American Crew, he said, pointing at his phone screen: “This is where it all started for me. I ended up getting into men’s grooming and back into barbering - and I couldn’t find any products. I was sick of all the over the counter stuff.” “Today, the principles of the brand remain the same. We’re
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Scalp Micropigmentation Barbering’s next big frontier
aldness isn’t a subject many people talk about. Baldness isn’t considered a market barbers have much of a stake in. However, Joseph Lanzante is here to change this perception and offer barbers another, lucrative feather to add to their caps. Scalp Micropigmentation is a non-surgical treatment designed to aesthetically cure baldness, alopecia, and cover-up any scarring. These treatments open-up a whole new world for barbers, hairdressers and of course, their clientele. Joseph Lanzante Aesthetics provides hair replication otherwise known as Micropigmentation. The treatment, carried out by highly-skilled professionals is used to replicate the aesthetics of hair follicles through the use of cosmetic tattoo techniques. Joseph passionately believes Scalp Micropigmentation will be the future of the barbering industry. Or more aptly he believes the treatment will open a whole new revenue for barbers to explore, adding to already stellar repertoires. The scalp tattoo is a specialised process, during which tiny deposits of pigment are positioned within the dermal layer of the skin. This differs from standard tattooing as only the surface of the skin is penetrated; therefore there is no bleeding, scabbing and minimal redness. The Micropigmentation offered by Mr. Lanzante can be used as an aesthetic treatment for baldness in any area of the scalp, to cover scarring, alopecia and receding hairlines. SMP treatment is non-surgical and scar free, allowing for instant results. You can walkout of any clinic assured in your new hairline. At it’s best you’re offering clients a new lease on life, something they may not have had before the procedure.
Balding and baldness can happen to anyone. Early balding can make a person appear older and even shake their sense of self. Micropigmentation for baldness creates the illusion of a shaved head, which is unattainable through other cosmetic hair procedures. Even on diminishing hair SMP yields incredible results. Providing a client with the look and appearance of denser hair and definition in the hairline. Much like baldness, a receding hairline is something that can reduce one’s confidence. Joseph Lanzante Aesthetics’ Micropigmentation solution will give your clients something they never thought was possible. Reducing the visibility of the scalp and bringing the hairline back to where it should be. Scarring on the head after surgery often results in hair loss on and around scar tissue. Micropigmentation safely and effectively coversup the appearance of such scarring with the look of a shaved head. Whether the scar is surrounded by short shaved hair or longer hair, the SMP procedure will reduce visible scarring, taking any unwanted attention away from the area. While Micropigmentation for men is used create the look and appearance of a shaved head. The procedure for women can reduce the visible difference between the hair colour and scalp. Finding your hair thinning in areas can be incredibly damaging to a woman’s confidence. SMP procedures give the hair a fuller look, even filling in the visible areas where the hair appears thinner. The end result will increase your client’s confidence, allowing them to do far more with their hair without the worry of scalp visibility.
JL Aesthetics Micropigmentation Courses
he four-day training programme offers the ultimate educational experience followed by excellent on-going support. With a proven balance of both theory and practical learning you’ll gain the valuable knowledge and techniques used to perform Micropigmentation procedures to the same high-standards we offer. The four-days are displaced over two, two-day sessions; the first set will cover theory, health and safety, practical sessions on imitation skin and practice on a live model - you need to bring your own model, though in certain circumstances we may be able to provide one. The main purpose for the course being split over two-days – models need the required healing time a client would receive before having the second round of treatment. Courses are held at our site (BB5 5JQ) though Joseph can travel if expenses are covered. Prices start from £2,995 (VAT inc.) for the training or £4,000 (VAT inc.) for training plus the machine and initial starting equipment. Training dates can be tailored to your availability, though with the training it is a four-day course over a two-week period as it is divided into two, two-day training days as the model will require a two-week healing period. Prices can range from £400 - £2,500 per client dependent on coverage needed. Micropigmentation treatment for the average client with treatment engaging in an average lifestyle won’t need another session for threeto-six-years. Though extenuating circumstances can change this. The pigments used for Scalp Micropigmentation can be tailored to any skin-type and colouration as there are varying shades available, which can be mixed to create the perfect colour match for the client. It is important to reiterate there is no guarantee how skin will heal and take to the pigments. Every client has unique skin and some may take better than others.
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Josh O’meara-Patel, better known to the barbering community as Josh O.P, has opened his first training academy. The Stourbridge based barber’s work is acutely his own, not in the sense of any pretention but in the unique execution he showcases. There’s a subtlety counter-balanced by hardlines and striking texture complimented by bold colour and an air of natural showmanship.
he shop itself is the quintessential modern barbershop. The cream walls and light wooden panelling contrast beautifully with the darker furniture and flooring. All of these features work to create a breathable and comfortable environment; in essence, the shop has an undeniable freshness. Aesthetically there’s a distinct sense of minimalism to the interior design, nothing is out-of-place or overwhelms any other element. The final result being a space that is dual parts modern chic, warm and inviting.
BNV: Has education always been a priority for you?
It would be hard to argue that there are many better environments, nor better mentors to immerse yourself with than Josh O.P. His confidence and ability are clear throughout our conversation, as there isn’t even a single moment of hesitation. Josh is a man who knows his mission and moreover himself.
BNV: When did the concept for the academy come about and what was your inspiration?
In our conversation with Josh, BarberNV asked him what inspired the academy, where his career is leading to and what he can offer students.
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JO.P: To be honest, no. I try never to set out specifically to become anything or achieve anything other than simple happiness. I find setting specific goals can set you up for frustration, disappointment and self-loathing. Whereas, if you set out only to be happy you will find yourself at a constant level of contentment with your achievements, and in turn will become more successful. So, simply trying to be happy and better myself everyday lead to becoming an educator.
JO.P: In terms of concept we wanted to build something that reflected me and my philosophies. Something relaxed and home like. I wanted to create a home for modern barbering and men’s hairdressing, so the homely feel was something we were keen to capture. Much of the interior design was done by my better
half Verity-Rose Greene who took my concept on board and brought it to life. BNV: What was it like from concept to actuality with the academy? JO.P: In terms of translating our concepts to real life, I didn’t find it much of a challenge. As previously stated, I try to never set exact goals as to minimalise any restrictions and limitations. Maintaining a clear vision of where we’re going, without limiting it to an exact path to follow I can be confident the end result will look good, then I find that the journey is a lot easier. BNV: How was building your brand to this point? JO.P: Building the brand. Where to begin? It was around twoand-a-half-years-ago now that I began building my brand from scratch. Dropping out of university and buying a pair of clippers and cutting hair in my kitchen - I was full of passion and energy. I had fallen in love with the craft, the industry and the feeling of being a free artist. For a while this raw passion fuelled much of the growth. The next year would take me from working in my kitchen for free to a very reputable barbershop. Only six months after this I was asked to educate for the first time. Travelling to Rotterdam, again riding the wave of raw passion and what I can only describe as an unpredicted hidden natural talent. I will be the first to admit at this stage looking back I had very little knowledge and understanding not only of how I cut hair, but of myself as a person. However, upon returning from my first trip I received an unprecedented number of messages in regards to me offering education. And so, in my eyes, my true journey and my true career began. I had fallen in love with barbering on a whole new level. And so, determined to build on my foundation of passion and raw talent I began to study. I took time out after work for weeks on end analysing myself, my mind and the way I worked. In doing this I managed to build on my foundations and begin to gain psychological solidarity. Which, for me is maintaining a clear and confident mindset aligned with a true understanding to my techniques and processes. It may sound ridiculous to some, but I speak from experience, without this self-analysis I would not have built my career and my brand to the level it is now. Through social media I have built @barber.josh.o.p into a global brand within the industry. BNV: What does it mean to you to be an educator? JO.P: To me being an educator is the greatest honour I could ever wish for. I am able to travel the world doing what I love.
Being able not only to watch people grow both technically and psychologically, but also to be the cause of this growth is nothing short of an honour. I’m not an educator for myself. I don’t do this for me, I do it to help build our great industry. I do this to help everyone realise they are amazing and what they do every day is worth something. I am in this to build confidence and minimalise self-inflicted pressure. Having said this, I feel not only do I possess a natural ability within the artistry of barbering, but I also possess a natural ability to teach. I feel education is something you are born to do, so being an educator, being a psychological coach and being a friend to peers all over the globe is the most fulfilling experience. BNV: What will it mean to attend your academy and what will the main aim of your students be? JO.P: In attending our academy we aim to provide you with psychological solidarity. A consistently controlled, clear and confident mindset aligned with a true understanding of your techniques and processes. We aim to provide you with a platform, a foundation of simple and systematic techniques and a change of mindset in order for you to build a successful career. BNV: What are you hoping the impact of the academy will be and how will you measure it? JO.P: The impact I want our academy to have is to completely change the way our students think. Not only in terms of your thought processes during your haircut, but also your mindset and outlook prior to your haircuts and in life in general. We want everyone in the industry and the world to be sure of themselves. Never full of yourself, but everyone deserves to be secure and confident in their own abilities. We want to install a new level of confidence in people. Building on the psychological solidarity, so everyone can make the most of their abilities. It is not very often that I see barbers who lack ability, but it is far too often that I see barbers who lack confidence. We want to provide people with the confidence to follow their own paths. BNV: Is there anything you’ll offer that maybe isn’t taught at other academies? JO.P: Alongside the technical coaching we offer bespoke psychological coaching that stretches beyond the course. We help you to truly understand your own idea of true success. Because if you don’t understand what it will take to make you happy how do you ever expect to gain true success? Education is not simply business, it’s about building relationships.
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HOW TO CREATE A HIGH AND TIGHT CUT The Bluebeards Revenge has teamed up with award-winning barber and founder of The Lions Barber Collective Tom Chapman to help you create a contemporary high and tight hairstyle.
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The Lions Barber Collective’s Tom Chapman gives his tips on how to create a high and tight look that allows for a little more personality.
ith its high-faded sides and slightly longer top, the classic high and tight look has always been a favourite among military men. But, that’s not to say you have to enlist in the forces and don fatigues to make the style work for you. Below, Tom gives his tips on how to create a high and tight look that allows for a little more personality. He said: “The classic high and tight look is often incredibly short on top. However, the version below has evolved thanks to modern trends and creative barbers. The tight sides are taken all the way up to keep the style clean, crisp, and easy to maintain, while some length is left through the top to give the look more texture and versatility.”
CREATE THE LOOK 1. Start by washing the hair with The Bluebeards Revenge Shampoo and Conditioner. This helps to ensure the hair is clean and sits true to its natural fall for best results. 2. Dry the hair with a towel before creating a horseshoe section to isolate the hair on top. 3. Remove the bulk of the hair on the sides to create a blank canvas for the high-fade. 4. Release the top and blend it into the sides and back, then point-cut to the desired length which will create texture and movement on top. 5. While the hair is still damp, apply a small amount of The Bluebeards Revenge Matt Clay as a pre-styling product. Blow dry with The Bluebeards Revenge Vent Brush for a textured look. 6. Now that the hair is dry, use clippers to establish the shortest grade nice and high on the head. Then work through the grades blending into the previous length on top. 7. Tidy up the edges of the cut with trimmers. Then, use The Bluebeards Revenge Cut-Throat Razor to sharpen up the neck and hair line. 8. Remove hair debris with the Bluebeards Revenge Talc for Men and a neck brush. 9. Finish off with a small amount of volumizing powder and a little more matt clay.
STYLING 1. Wash the hair and dry it off with a towel. 2. Run The Bluebeards Revenge Matt Clay through the hair from roots to tips as a pre-styling agent.
3. Blow dry the hair with The Bluebeards Revenge Vent Brush to add volume and texture. 4. Finish with a little more matt clay for a natural look that will last. And there you have it, a modern example of the popular military high and tight cut. For more expert hairstyling videos from The Bluebeards Revenge and master barber Tom Chapman, visit our YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/bluebeardstv
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Get it right the first time In an age where everything is available in just a few clicks, it is now the norm to order everything online and wait for the goods to arrive in the following days. But when is it time to stop and get a better idea of what you are purchasing?
From groceries to clothing to cars everything we could possibly need is now available to buy online, from the comfort of our own home, or whilst we are going about our daily lives. We don’t seem to have time any more for browsing the shops, and I’m sure every one of us can recall a time that something was delivered that has no resemblance to the image you saw on the screen the night before. The question is - when is it important to make time to ensure you are spending your money wisely? Take the barber chair for example - relied on every single day to provide comfort for your clients and reliability for you. In fact a barber
chair in a busy shop can typically be sat on up to 9360 times a year. Undoubtedly, this is one thing to spend a bit of time looking into, rather than “adding to basket” based on a photo and a glossy website alone. But where to start? If you can only make it to one shop, why not try Barber Equipment Centre - just 5 minutes from the M1. They have been around for 25 years now and it is the largest barber equipment showroom in the UK, with 2 floors of new, refurbished and antique furniture, and multiple themed rooms full of barber chairs of all different brands and budgets which you can try before you buy.
“It’s so easy and convenient to click online but sometimes it pays to make the effort to go and try the goods in person when making bigger and more important investments - it will save time and money in the long run.”
Barber Equipment Centre
Leicester Road, Lutterworth, LE17 4HF www.barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk 01455 553 558
BRONX The LEGION
Have you got your free 80 page barber catalogue yet? If not call
01455 553 558
BEC Call 01455 553 558 or visit www.barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk We buy and part exchange barber furniture. Nationwide delivery available. Visit our showroom at Leicester Road, Lutterworth, LE17 4HF
Chris Foster C
hris Foster is a name that shouldn’t be alien to anyone who’s familiar to our back catalogue. Chris is a multiaward-winning barber, speaker, entrepreneur and content creator. Over his 25-year career, Chris has built a successful brand around his name, now as he says “to fulfilling the dreams of others”. He now offers personalised coaching and mentoring, taking you from confusion to confidence and clarity. Chris will be back in the pages of BarberNV from this issue onwards, and we couldn’t be more thrilled. So, we thought the best way to re-introduce him to our readers was by asking him a few questions to see what he’s been up to and where he’s hoping to take his brand into 2019. BNV: What have you been up to since you last graced our pages? CF: So, since I last graced the pages of BarberNV, things have been really busy for me. I’ve launched the Profit Profile Podcast, which is available on iTunes, Google Play and other podcast players. It is designed to help hair professionals, especially in the barbering industry, listen to people who have experienced great opportunities from marketing themselves and having a great industry profile. I’ve also been working on a 2.0 version of The ONE Programme. Again, this is specifically designed to help hair professionals really focus on building a career that gets them seen as an expert, booked by shows and working on stages all around the world; doing all the amazing things that I’ve had to figure out over the last 25 years of being in this hair game. It is basically the blueprint for success that I wish I had when I started out in this industry. BNV: How has 2018 been for you? CF: I have stepped down as director of the British Barbers’ Association which means that I can really focus on helping hair professional specifically achieve their goals and work one to one with barbers all also work through my coaching programme. Ultimately my aim is to be of service to my industry rather than focus on myself. So I stepped down from most of my international travel to focus on helping others achieve their goals and be totally awesome. BNV: What are your plans for the future? CF: My plans for the future are to continue to grow an audience and create a community of like-minded professionals that want to really make an impact within the industry. When I started out in my career it was all about breaking ground. Now the barbering industry is flourishing, but the problem is more than ever, it’s hard for people to stand out and to be seen as the go-to expert because there are so many people in the game. So, I want to help hair professionals really come together as a community to see how we can develop our industry in a way that’s more sustainable; so that we can grow together and
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share opportunities so that our industry can be seen as a great profession to go into rather than just a hobby. BNV: Should we expect more seminars in 2019? CF: In 2019 I still expect to do more seminars but now I am focused on using different technologies to get my message of profile building out to a wider audience. Sometimes I will go on Facebook Live, sometimes I will have webinars or seminars specifically looking at how individuals can use their skills to generate more income from the chair and beyond. That’s what my goal is: to reach more people with the message that I want to tell the industry. That message is that all hair professionals and barbers can achieve great things if they focus on building a profile. If they build a strong foundation they can profit from it and create an amazing legacy for themselves, their family and for their future. The reason you should focus on profile building is that if you are seen as an expert, you get paid more and if you are the one that everyone wants to work with then you will get more opportunities. That’s what Iead me to create The ONE Programme. I know that profile building opens a huge amount of doors as I’ve experienced that in my career, working in wonderful parts of London and for London & New York Fashion Weeks, having started in a small barber shop in Tottenham. Back then I quickly realised for me to get paid more I need be out there working, networking, growing and having a substantial contribution to my industry. That’s why I think profile building is really important. It means that you can have choices; you can choose to do amazing things like travel or choose not to, but it’s important to at least have the choice. Many people in our industry go from show to show thinking the more you learn the more you will stand out. I have a different approach. I believe the more you promote yourself, the more you can earn because people want your skills and you’re more in demand. So it’s almost not what you know, but how you show. BNV: Your delivering a lot of positive messages with your FB live videos, are these something you want to continue and make bigger? CF: The message on Facebook will continue. I have something called Mentor Mondays where I share my message on Facebook. And as I stated earlier, I have my podcast which people can listen to for inspiration and motivation to strive to be the best they can be within this amazing hair industry. I will continue to spreads my message, even though some people may not like to hear what I’ve got to say, but I believe in it and want to teach it to other people. Fundamentally, I get it from my name “Foster” which means to care for. I call what I do “Foster Care” which may sound cheesy, but I want to foster everyone in this industry to build a profile that better serves them. So that they themselves can spread their own message, be talked about and shared across social media.
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Uppercut Deluxe M
uch-loved Australian grooming brand, Uppercut Deluxe is celebrating a decade in existence. Ten Years of Staying Power is a massive milestone, and Grounded Motion has put together a documentary piece to commemorate the occasion, all of which is available on the brand’s website. “When I first started out barbering, I was constantly ragged on by my mates,” Uppercut Deluxe Founder, Steve Purcell said. “It doesn’t seem so long ago that dudes would be embarrassed about even getting their hair cut, but now you see lines out the door of barbershops all the time.” Over the past decade, barbering saw resurgence, with new barbershops opening doors and more hair than ever being put on the floor. Uppercut Deluxe came into being at the jump off and has continued to supply barbershops globally and play a part in such a huge cultural shift. On making it to doublefigures, Steve Purcell added: “Back then, I couldn’t have even imagined that Uppercut Deluxe would get to where it is today. I really thought we would be limited by how far Barbering would come back.
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“One of our missions from the very start was to do everything in our power to help further the trade. With a tonne of hard work and timing on our side, we like to think that we did our little part in helping fuel the change in perception about men’s grooming.” In their ten-year history, Uppercut Deluxe has earned a position as an industry leader. With highlights such as recruiting a diverse team of global ambassadors, cutting at some of the world’s biggest music, surf and skate events, and most importantly getting in the hands of people across 40 countries. It’s not hard to see why the brand is excited about the future. To celebrate a decade of Staying Power, Uppercut Deluxe is releasing a limitededition capsule including a t-shirt, anniversary edition tin lid, keyring and patch. All of which is stamped with the 10-year-anniversary graphic, designed by one of the original Uppercut Deluxe founders. Check out the tin, tee, patch and keyring on the Uppercut Deluxe website www.uppercutdeluxe.com/uk/
NHF Winners Shoot Hair James Beaumont Model John Charles Warner Photography Roberto Aguilar
OPIUM Hair: Marco PM & Ivy Bravo Photography: Mikel Muruzabal Costume Design: Yellow Studio Makeup: Arturo Nuez Models: Pablo, Yonathan, Christian, Jiayuan, RubĂŠn
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oustaches are a funny subject. For much of the year they get very little recognition that isn’t mired in bad jokes. But come November millions of men will take the leap and adopt a fuzzy upper lip, to raise money and awareness for a range of men’s health charities. So as moustaches get their fly-by spotlight will you take up the cause? Since their humble beginning in 2003 the Movember Foundation has accumulated over five-million MoBros and MoSistas worldwide. Through moustaches grown and the conversations generated, the charity has helped to fund over 1,200 initiatives spread across 20 countries. Last year, I was lucky enough to cover Glasgow’s MoRunning event. I saw an awful lot of people, men, women and children all spending a frosty Sunday morning running for men’s health. The air was crisp and the adults warmed-up while the children made their way round Glasgow Green. The organisation was stellar and it was inspiring to hear people speak so passionately about what personal circumstance led them to taking part in the MoRunning event. One such individual was Marc Rodwell, a 30-year-old man who is a Regional Campaign Ambassador for the Movember Foundation. Marc’s story is inspiring, having suffered various mental health , which left him battling agoraphobia. Of the work the Movember Foundation are doing Marc said: “Joining the Movember movement helps raise awareness for various causes
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such as testicular and prostate cancers, suicide prevention and mental health. Statistically men are dying five-years-younger than women. It’s more than just growing the Mo. We can be the change. One Mo at a time. “Today alone one-in-11 men will be diagnosed with Prostate Cancer. One-in-8 men will be diagnosed with prostate cancer. And one man dies every minute in the world due to suicide or other mental health issues. “All of these are avoidable, testicular cancer has a 95% survival rate if caught early. Every suicide is avoidable if we can learn to talk more with one another about the hardship and issues we face.” MoRunning is back this November and without a doubt it will be an incredible year. With 22 locations and the inclusion of the 1.5km a run for all the mini-Mos. There will be lots of MoBros and MoSistas, as well as families enjoying everything Movember is about. Good fun, lots of laughs, loads of smiles, high fives and not forgetting the fancy dress and funky moustaches. All to raise money for the Movember Foundation and the causes they champion through these events. Now, the only question we have is how far will you get? You can sign up for the MoRunning events at www.morunning.com and you can get more information on the work of the Movember Foundation at uk.movember.com
Movember Mo Bros George and Ben
Together we can make a difference for menâ€™s health. Raise funds and awareness this Movember for all the dads, brothers, sons and mates in your life. Sign up now at movember.com
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VISION Hair: Bons Photography: Gerardo Rainone
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// ADAM SLOAN
IN THE CHAIR SPONSORED BY
IN THE CHAIR WITH E-CHAIR.COM I S A N E W F E AT U R E G R AC I N G O U R PA G E S . E A C H I S S U E B A R B E R N V B R I N G YOU SHORT INTERVIEWS WITH THE A B S O LU T E B E S T I N T H E I N D U S T R Y. ALL SPONSORED BY E-CHAIR.COM. Adam Sloan is a man whose prestige follows him. Adam Sloan was the first barber in 365 years to be allowed to join the Barber’s Guild, which is now run by dentists and surgeons. He’s helped future generations of barbers, producing text books, journals and instructional videos. So, it’s safe to say that Adam is a figure in the industry new barbers should take note of and aspire to emulate. Having just won the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Scottish Hair, Beauty & Barbering Awards we caught up with Adam to ask him some all-important questions. BNV: Congratulations on winning your Lifetime Achievement Award. Tell us what it means to you. AS: Firstly, it was a shock! It will always mean a lot to me especially receiving the Award in Glasgow, my hometown. I am hugely honoured to be recognised by SHABA . BNV: What is the best bit of advice anyone has given you? AS: To never leave a stone unturned and question everything. You can then make your own mind up and make your own decisions. BNV: What’s left for you still to do on your bucket list? AS: In the industry it’s to continue to try and leave the Industry in a better place than I found it and work with the youngsters at entry level for they are the future.
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But, personally; die young at an old age! BNV: Who’s your industry inspiration? AS: To be honest, all the industry grafters our there! They range from barbers to hairdressers. I’m sure they know who they are, they live the job and all do nine-day-weeks to balance the books, inspire their teams and contribute massively to our Industry. BNV: What’s your favourite kind of music? AS: Everything from Rat Pack to Opera! BNV: What is your favorite travel destination? AS: Definitely Majorca. The minute I get off the plane I am chilled. I base myself in Alcudia and love to drive all over the island taking in their culture — food and booze! BNV: Tell us something nobody would know about you! AS: King of the Road is my karaoke song. BNV: What is your favourite food? AS: Sausages! BNV: If you could keep only three possessions what would you keep? AS: My scissors, phone and comb. BNV: If you could have a super power what would it be and why? AS: Time travel — that would be fun.
The UK’s first platform for barbers to advertise their chairs to rent, and users to search for a space to work “e-Chair has opened the world of chair hire to the 21st century. Fast, efficient and pleasing on the eye, a lot like our members and their clients, things won't be the same after this!” Adam Sloan, CEO of MHFED
“As a Salon owner, the ease of use is what I really love about e-Chair. Whether you're booking or letting, the simplicity of e-Chair makes it a pleasant experience and so much quicker. Everyone will love this!” Alan Findlay, Owner, Rebel Rebel
“e-Chair is awesome, I just can't believe it's taken till now to do this! So much easier than searching for chairs. This will be a game changer for the industry!” Sam Wall, Barber
Work anytime, anywhere, any place #yourrules
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