ISSUE 32 | MAY 2012 SCOTTISH EDITION | FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
N IPAD 3
and top chefs
Recipes fit for the Queen
Rachel Khoo Ed Baines Emma Forbes Faye Ripley Bill Grange
Cooks his Reggae Reggae salmon
CELEBRATION COCKTAILS • COOKING WITH KIDS • PERSIAN RECIPES
Time to party Published by the Media Company Publications Ltd 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh EH3 6TL Tel: 0131 226 7766 www.foodiesmagazine.com EDITORIAL Editor Sue Hitchen Design Angela McKean Sub Editing Janet Watson Digital Imaging Malcolm Irving Production Lucy Wormell Caroline Whitham Publishing Assistants Ester Hilmarsdottir Joana Para Maldonado Julia Kauffman Advertising Design Charis Stewart SUBSCRIPTIONS Receive a copy of Foodies every month. Only £15 (regular price £24) for 12 issues delivered to your door Call 0131 226 7766 or email the editor: email@example.com ADVERTISING Sales Manager Bill Mackayohnsto Business Development Matthew Magee Simon Ward Carrie Murphy Front cover image from Pomegranate and Roses: My Persian Family by Ariana Bundy, Fari Publishing, £25
HERE’S a glittering line up of top chefs in this month’s edition, sharing recipes to help you plan your celebrations for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. Foodies Festival chefs Levi Roots, THE L AT Ed Baines, Emma Forbes and Fay Ripley get into the E APPLE ST party spirit with their recipes on page 34. IPAD 3 It’s a busy month all round, as the Foodies team heads down to Hampton Court Palace for the first Foodies Festival of 2012 over the weekend of May 5, 6 and 7. The festival will offer cooking demonstrations from Michelin-starred and TV chefs, including Levi Roots and Cyrus Todiwala, tasting sessions and cooking-for-kids masterclasses. We’re excited about the new Food of Love Cinema and beach huts serving ice cream. We doubt that anyone who has been watching the lovely Rachel Khoo cooking French delights in BBC2’s The Little Paris Kitchen could not have wanted to up sticks and find their very own atelier, complete with colourful local market and corner patisserie. She shares some of her secrets with us on page 14. Bon apetit! Sue Hitchen, Editor
Bill Granger is a self-taught chef, restaurateur and food writer, who is based in his native Australia, but cooks all over the world
Rachel Khoo is a British chef and broadcaster based in Paris. Her TV series, The Little Paris Kitchen, aired recently on BBC 2
Ed Baines is chef-patron of Randall & Aubin in London, as well as a renowned TV presenter and one of the judges of Britain’s Best Dish
Levi Roots is a Jamaican chef and the creator of Reggae Reggae Sauce, which became famous after Levi appeared on Dragons’ Den foodies | 3
BOOKS, TV AND EVENTS
WIN AN IPAD 13 The latest tasty morsel from Apple
RACHEL KHOO French recipes without tears
ARIANA BUNDY Persian pomegranates
JANE LOVETT Cooking made easy
JUBILEE JOY Recipes from Fay Ripley, Emma Forbes, Ed Baines and Levi Roots
RECIPE OF THE MONTH 43 Hardeep Singh Kohli’s spicy peppers COOKING WITH KIDS 45 Bill Granger cooks butterfly cakes
COOK SCHOOLS All the latest courses for you
KITCHENS Create the homespun look
SPA REVIEW Fletcher’s Cottage at Archerfield Golf Club, East Lothian
RESTAURANT REVIEW Osteria, North Berwick
COCKTAIL RECIPES Cheers to the Jubilee
SCOTLAND’S BEST PUBS The country’s top 20
NEW BARS & RESTAURANTS
OUT AND ABOUT
WWW.FOODIES-MAGAZINE.COM FOR MORE NEWS AND RECIPES foodies | 5
Star and stripes Diet Coke has linked up with fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier for the year, so expect to see some rather unusual memorabilia heading this way. Gaultier has landed the post of creative director for 2012 and has already got down to work, knocking out these rather nifty bottles as part of his Night and Day collection. The Night bottle is edgy, while the Day bottle, with its Breton stripes, celebrates the fashion icon’s fun side. Both Night and Day bottles are available at Harvey Nichols for £1.95. www.harveynichols.com
Brave new world Carrots and potatoes will never be the same again, as Scotty Brand’s packaging will now include images from Pixar's upcoming Scottish animated film Brave. The Scotty Brand line will be extended to include fresh raspberries and strawberries, and each pack will offer the chance to win tickets to the Edinburgh premiere in August. scottybrand.com
It’s all go for Highland Croft Confectionery and its traditional sweets. Foodies’ firm favourite, Butter Tablet, has been going down a storm in Waitrose’s Scottish branches – so much so that it’s also going to be sold in two John Lewis stores in London this summer Meanwhile, back in Scotland, Waitrose will be stocking fudge and macaroons. muircroftgroup.com
Grin and bear it How about a new flavour for the kids’ afternoon treat? And it's good for them. Bear YoYos now come in a fruity apple and pineapple flavoured bar. The fun, roll-up snack is packed with fibre and pure fruit, without any added sugar. www.bearnibbles.co.uk
Cake and glory Waitrose has decided to go for all-out patriotism for the Jubilee year, and who better to ask for help than the person who designed last year’s Royal Wedding cake? Fiona Cairns has come up with a range of decorated cupcakes, gingerbreads and celebration cakes with a very British flavour. These red, white and blue beauties will go down a treat at all the best Jubliee parties. The Tea Party Cup Cakes, below, are on sale for £5,50 for a pack of six. A twopack of Fiona Cairns Gingerbread crowns is £1.99. www.waitrose.com
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Waitrose Jubilee cake stand £5, Reversible cake stand, www.waitrose.com
Tosh Cucumber Sandwich mug £8.99 www.cotswold trading.com
Clock £9.99 www.creativetops.com
Diamond Jubilee Corgis tea towel £9.95 www.fromthe wilde.com/shop
Small pots of Jubilee Jam £1.39 each www.tch.net
Start flying the flags for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee with these patriotic royal goodies
Emma Bridgewater Large Union Jack tray £24.99 www.gifted penguin.co.uk/
Great British Street Party cake toppers 2 £2.99, www.mollieandfred. co.uk
Soldier egg cup and toast cutter £6.95, www.prezzybox.com
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BOOKS, TV AND WHAT’S ON
COOKING THE BOOKS Pastry Richard Bertinet, Ebury Press, £20 French master Richard Bertinet offers up a plethora of patisserie recipes, from the simple to the challenging. Open a bottle of fizz for your own champagne high tea. Delia’s Summer Collection Delia Smith, BBC Books, £14.99 Delia shares her favourite recipes for summer, which she calls a “dazzling time for cooks”. Accessible recipes such as avocado salsa and pesto rice salad set the tone. 7 Days in Scotland Nils Juul Eilersen & Christian Nissen, £25.25 A loving portrait of the Scottish landscape, and especially roe deer, along with recipes to try after the hunt
Luke of love Vietnamese-Australian chef Luke Nguyen takes us on a gastronomic tour of south-east Asia this May, exploring recipes perfected by the locals. As he cooks through Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia and China, the unique spices and fresh flavours will have you feeling like you're a world away. Let Luke guide you through Asian recipes like spicy beef skewers or bamboo shoots stuffed with pork and ginger. Weeknights, 7pm starting 7th May
WHAT’S ON ARTHUR’S EAT 19 May, Edinburgh Join a Ranger for a free guided walk through Holyrood Park in celebration of Edinburgh Biodiversity Week. The guided walk will cover food uses and folklore of the plants, as well as myths and legends that surround plants we see every day and how were they used as food and medicine. Bring warm, waterproof clothing and sturdy footwear, a snack and a drink. Please note that this walk may not be suitable for children under eight years old.
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WHISKY STRAMASH 26 May, Edinburgh The inaugural Edinburgh Whisky Stramash takes place at Surgeons' Hall on 26-27 May. The event will include a tour of Glenfiddich Warehouse 47, a visit to the Cocktail Pod, Molecular Experiments on whiskey, a Sweeney Todd-style bladed barber surgeon and a murder mystery. Tickets for the event cost £25 and are available from Robert Graham whisky shops, in Glasgow and Edinburgh, and TicketSoup.com. thewhiskystramash.com
FORAGER DINNER 6 May, Edinburgh Head chef Colin Manson takes a look at Scotland's fresh natural ingredients on a foraging trip with Strathspey mushrooms. After searching for ingredients he will be putting Scotland's finest to the test in special forager's feast at the Malmaison in Glasgow at 7pm. To join the four-course meal, with wines to match, email firstname.lastname@example.org to book. The dinner costs £45 per person.
N O TI TI PE M CO
WIN AN IPAD COURTESY OF SCOTCH BEEF
OODIES magazine has teamed up with Scotch Beef to offer one lucky reader the chance to win an iPad3, worth more than £400. As we approach spring, Quality Meat Scotland’s free Perfect Steaks and Roasts app brings all you need to create delicious dishes with Scotch beef, Scotch lamb and Specially Selected pork. The iconic Scotch Beef label, with its coveted European PGI status, guarantees traceability from farm to fork. The label is underpinned by world-leading quality assurance and Scotch Beef is acclaimed by chefs around the globe for its quality
and flavour. Award-winning chefs Brian Turner and Chris and Jeff Galvin are among those championing Scotch Beef. For simple and inspiring recipe ideas log on to www.scotchbeefandlamb.com. You can also download Quality Meat Scotland’s free ‘Perfect Steaks and Roasts’ app from the site. For inspirational pork recipes visit www.speciallyselectedpork.co.uk. To make Roast Côte de Boeuf with Truffle Macaroni and HermitageJus, the dish shown on the iPad above, log on to www.foodiesmagazine.com. ●
TO ENTER: For your chance to win this great prize, simply answer the following question:
What is the name of Quality Meat Scotland’s free app? Send your answer and contact details, including your email address, on a postcard to Foodies, 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh EH3 6TL or email enter @foodies-magazine.com
Terms and Conditions: The prize is an ipad 3. The winner will be the first correct answer drawn on 2nd June 2012. The prize is subject to availability and to the terms and conditions of Scotch Beef. The prize is non-transferable. There is no cash alternative and the editor’s decision is final. foodies | 13
RECIPES RACHEL KHOO
Simple truth F
IVE years ago, I made the decision to pursue my sweet dream of studying pâtisserie at Le Cordon Bleu. So I packed my belongings and waved goodbye to London. A short train journey across the Channel and it was “Bonjour, Paris.” And so my edible Parisian adventure began. The bakeries would entice me with their perfume of freshly-baked baguettes and croissants. The cheesemonger would lure me with his perfectly ripe, oozing Brie displayed in the window, conveniently located next to a little wine shop. But discovering ‘la vie parisienne’ wasn't just about eating it up. I had some hard work to do. During my first summer in Paris, I donned my chef's whites and enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu, the famous cookery school, for a patisserie course. It was “Oui, chef!” for the next three months, while I learned how to make French classics like croissants and crème brûlée. Two hundred eggs and 20 kilos of butter, sugar and flour later, I graduated from Le Cordon Bleu. Somehow the rest of the world has forgotten how ‘délicieux’ French food can be. French cuisine has been stereotyped with the stuffy image of an old-fashioned chef labouring over a terribly complicated dish, finished with a ton of butter.“Mais non,” I say. French flavours and techniques needn't be out of reach of the everyday home cook. While I was writing this book, I decided to test Try some of the recipes out on the public by Rachel’s opening up my own 'underground' restaurant recipes for just two diners, as my apartment is so small. overleaf People from all over the world (including the French) booked in and came for lunch. It soon became clear that, no matter what nationality they were, the thing they loved most was the fact that it was simple Little Paris Kitchen by home-cooked food, not Michelin-starred gastronomy. Rachel Khoo, Penguin Food that any Pierre, Paul or Jacques (Tom, Dick or Books, £20 Harry) can cook at home. ●
It took a cooking trip to Paris to show Rachel Khoo the world has forgotten just how good straightforward French food can be
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RECIPES RACHEL KHOO
POISSON MEUNIÈRE - FISH WITH LEMON AND BROWN BUTTER SAUCE Meunière translates as 'miller's wife', referring to the flour used to dredge the fish before it is cooked. This acts as a protective barrier, preventing the flesh from drying out. I use lemon sole as Dover sole is just too expensive 2 fillets of lemon sole (about 150g each), skin removed 3 tbsp of plain flour 1 ⁄2 tsp of salt A generous pinch of pepper 11⁄2 tbsp sunflower oil 45g butter, cut into cubes Juice of 1⁄2 lemon 1 tbsp chopped parsley 1 tbsp small capers (optional)
Check the fish for small bones and use tweezers to pull out any that you find. ● Mix the flour with the salt and pepper and spread out over a large plate. Pat the fish fillets in the flour so they are evenly coated, and shake off any excess. ● Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a high heat, When the oil is smoking hot, place the fish fillets fleshy-side down in the pan and lower the heat to medium. Cook for 1-2 minutes on one side until golden, then turn the fillets over and cook for a further 1- 2 minutes until the second side is golden. Place the fish on a warm plate and cover with aluminium foil. ●
● Wipe the pan with paper towels and return to a medium heat. Add the cubes of butter and heat until they melt and become light brown, then turn off the heat and add the lemon juice (stand back a little as it will splutter). Add the parsley and capers (if using), and swirl the contents of the pan around. Return the fish to the pan, spoon over the juices and serve immediately. ● Flat fish fillets need only 1-2 minutes of cooking on each side. If you're cooking thicker slices or fillets from a fish like trout (2-3cm thick), then 3-4 minutes on each side should be fine.
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NAVARIN D'AGNEAU PRINTANIER - SPRING LAMB STEW
1kg lamb neck, cut into pieces 2 cloves of garlic, crushed to a paste 1 onion, finely chopped 1 tbsp olive oil 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs of thyme 4 carrots, cut into chunks 100g fresh or frozen peas 100g green beans, shopped Salt and pepper
● Preheat the oven to 160°C. Brown the meat, garlic and onion with the olive oil in a large flameproof casserole dish. Add the bay leaf, thyme and carrots, and enough water to cover the meat by at least a couple of centimetres. Bring to a simmer and remove any scum that rises to the top. Once all the scum is removed, cover the pan and transfer to the oven. Cook for 1-2 hours or until the meat is tender. ● Ten minutes before serving, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the peas and beans. Cook for 5 minutes or until the vegetables are tender, then drain. ● Take the casserole out of the oven and remove the bay leaf and sprigs of thyme. Add the peas and beans to the lamb with salt and pepper to taste, and serve straight away. ● For an English twist serve with some mint sauce.
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RECIPES RACHEL KHOO
CRÈME BRÛLÈÈ CARAMEL - TOPPED CUSTARD On my first trip to Paris I ordered a crème brûlèè and it tasted awful. In my virtually non-existent French, I tried to complain to the waiter that it tasted burned, only for him to retort that it was crème brûlèè and meant to be burned. Now my French is good enough to explain that crème brûlèè is a rich custard topped with a hard caramel. Not a burned caramel. Serves 6 300ml double cream 200ml milk 1 vanilla pod 6 egg yolks 100g sugar
For the caramel topping 30g caster sugar 30g raw cane sugar
Pour the cream and milk into a pan. Split the vanilla pod in half lengthways and scrape out the grains. Add the pod and grains to the cream and milk. Bring to a boil, turn off the heat and remove the pod from the pan. ● Combine the egg yolks with the sugar in a bowl, then slowly pour in the hot cream, whisking continuously. Do not overwhisk as you want to avoid creating too many bubbles. ● If you have time, pour the custard into a bowl, cover with cling film and refrigerate overnight. This gives the vanilla grains more time to flavour the cream and milk. ● Preheat the oven to 110ºC. Divide the custard between 6 wide, shallow ramekins and place in a roasting tin. Pour cold water into the tin to come halfway up the ramekins. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until the custard is set around the edges but still slightly wobbly in the middle. Remove the ramekins from the water and set aside until cooled to room temperature. Cover the ramekins with cling film (don't let it touch the custard), and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight. ● When ready to serve, make the caramel topping. Uncover the ramekins and check to see if condensation has collected on the custards. If it has, gently place paper towels on the surface to soak up the moisture. Mix the two types of sugar together and sprinkle an even layer over each custard by holding the spoon at least 30cm away from the ramekin. Sprinkling from a height is the best way to create an even layer of sugar. ● Place the ramekins on a metal tray. Use a blowtorch 10-12cm away and move it slowly across the sugar. Stop just before the desired degree of caramelisation is reached as it will continue to cook for a few seconds after the flame is removed. ●
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MEET THE CHEF ARIANA BUNDY
Rose-scented past After years in the west, Ariana Bundy found her journey to rediscover the rich culinary heritage of Iran was a revelation
G From Pomegranate and Roses: My Persian Family by Ariana Bundy, Fari Publishing, £25
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ROWING up in Europe and America, my brother and I sometimes felt as though Iran was part of our imagination. Yet we knew it was real. We had tasted its food, climbed its hills and smelled its roses. For me, Iranian recipes are intertwined with its rich history, its people, and my ancestors. I gathered recipes by e-mail, phone and by travelling: to Tehran, to the Caspian sea, to Ghazvin and remote villages – some people even parted with their old nalbekis (tea cups) and spoons so that I could take them home. I went to relatives’ kitchens around the world, to London, Paris, Los Angeles, New York and Geneva. All this showed me that you can indeed make this fabulous food wherever you are. Rolling my sleeves up in different kitchens, that’s when it all came back to me. My taste memory hadn’t failed me. I had been hungry for so long. Coupled with the fact that I am a trained chef, I was able to pick things up relatively quickly, as well as suggesting short cuts Try more and slightly different ways of presenting this of Ariana’s ancient cuisine – all the while staying true to its recipes overleaf roots. But most importantly, by learning about my family ties to the land, I was able to understand why I became a chef. It was this land of plenty that sustained the many generations of my family and made us appreciate the fruits and vegetables of our labour. It wasn’t until I was writing this book that I felt as though I was finally home. The research I did confirmed what I had always known in the back of my mind – even though I had been told otherwise – that Iran is a beautiful country with an amazingly rich culture. Its culinary heritage is incredibly varied and dates back thousands of years. Persia greatly influenced other cuisines around the world during its culinary renaissance. And in order to understand its future, you must look back at its history.As the great innovative French chef Pierre Gagnaire has said, cooking should be “looking towards the future but respectful of yesterday”. ●
JELLEYE ANAR FRESH POMEGRANATE JELLY WITH POMEGRANATE SEEDS One of the first things my brother and I were allowed to make was jelly and in the process, we would get our fingers all red. But we never had the patience to let the jellies set, checking them at least ten times before devouring them semirunny. This recipe is very far removed from the usual packet jelly but has the same texture. The jellies look absolutely stunning served in martini glasses or any other pretty glasses. 2 sachets/ 3 leaves of gelatine 1.5ltr freshly-squeezed pomegranate juice or shop-bought unsweetened juice 1tbsp caster sugar (optional) 500g pomegranate seeds Gold leaf, to decorate (optional) Fresh rose petals, to decorate (optional) In a large bowl, dissolve the powdered gelatine with 250ml of the pomegranate juice. If using gelatine leaves, place them one by one (not all at once or they will stick together) in a large bowl filled with cold water and leave for about 10 minutes. Once they are soft, gently pick them up and squeeze out any water with your hands. ● On a low heat, warm up the rest of the juice in a saucepan then add the gelatine mixture or gelatine leaves and stir constantly until thickened. Taste the mixture and if it’s too sour, add the sugar until you achieve the desired taste. ● Pour the jelly into a large glass bowl or small glasses, then sprinkle in the seeds, reserving a few to decorate. ● Leave to cool before transferring to the fridge to set. Before serving, decorate the jelly with the rest of the pomegranate seeds; crumble over the gold leaf and scatter with fresh rose petals. ●
RECIPES ARIANA BUNDY
KHORAKEH MORGH - CHICKEN STEW 2 tbsp butter 1 tbsp oil 2 medium onions, sliced thinly or finely chopped 4 large chicken breasts, or thighs, skinless, with or
without bones 1 tsp salt Twist of pepper 1 ⁄3 tsp saffron threads, pounded then dissolved in 2–3 tbsp hot water
● This little recipe will change the way you look at chicken forever. It is unbelievably simple and efficient: you will turn to it again and again, even when making dishes from other cuisines. I use it for Japanese hotpots, curries and cassoulets. It’s a master recipe. All you need to do is put the lot in a pan and let the whole thing gently cook away. The trick is to check your chicken for tenderness around the 45-minute mark if it is boneless, and about an hour if it isn’t. Depending on the thickness of your pan and the power of your stove, cooking times vary. If you miss the ‘tenderness’ point, your chicken will start to overcook and become dry. Once you get the hang of this, you will have tender fragrant chicken every time. ● Put a large saucepan over a medium-high heat and add the butter, oil, onions, chicken breasts, salt and pepper. As soon as everything heats up – about 5–7 minutes – reduce the heat to its lowest possible setting. Cover the chicken mixture and let it cook ever so gently for about 1⁄2 hours. Turn the chicken over halfway during the cooking process. ● When the meat is meltingly tender, add the saffron liquid, cook for a further 2 minutes, making sure the chicken is well coated with the saffron, and remove from the heat. Serve with rice.
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RECIPES ARIANA BUNDY
POLO BA TAADIG - PERFECT FLUFFY RICE WITH A GOLDEN CRUST Iranians take a lot of pride in cooking rice. This recipe may make you feel like you’re creating a really complicated dish rather than just plain rice. But, as the name suggests, it takes plain rice and elevates it to something special
600g basmati rice 2 tbsp sea salt
For the taadig: 50–75g melted butter, ghee or sunflower oil, plus 1 tbsp extra for the topping 1 tbsp natural yogurt 1 ⁄4 tsp saffron threads, pounded To decorate: 1 ⁄3 tsp saffron liquid, made from . tsp saffron threads pounded then dissolved in 1 tbsp hot water
Fill a large bowl with water and add the rice. Wash the rice by stirring it with your hands. Pour the water off and repeat 5 times until the water runs clear. ● Fill a large non-stick pan with 2 litres cold water and bring to the boil. Add the rice, let the water come to the boil again and cook for approximately 6–8 minutes. Test the grains halfway through. Quickly pick out a few grains with a fork and crush them between your fingers, without burning them. The grains need to be soft on the outside but still hard on the inside and they should be double their original size. ● While the rice is cooking, stir it gently a couple of times. The next step is optional but worth noting: at this point you can ●
add 250ml cold water tto lengthen the grains. Bring back up to the boil. ● Once the rice is cooked, drain it through a very fine-meshed sieve. Pour a couple of cups of cold water over the rice to cool it and set it aside. ● In the same pan, briskly heat the melted butter, ghee or oil over a mediumhigh heat with 75ml 27water, the yogurt, saffron and 2 ladles of rice. Mix well and spread over the bottom of the pan to create the crust. Then start adding the rice a ladleful at a time. Gently shape the rice into a pyramid. That way the heat can circulate throughout the pan and won’t make the rice mushy. Poke 4–5 deep holes in the rice, with a chopstick or the handle of a spoon, making sure it hits the bottom of the pot, then cover. Let the rice cook on a high heat for about 5–7 minutes. It will sizzle and make all kinds of sounds. ● Iranian women check to see if the rice is ready for the next step by wetting their fingers and ever so quickly touching the side of the hot pan. If it makes a ‘Jez’ sound as we say in Persian, remove the lid and add 125ml water and 1 tbsp butter, ghee or oil. ● Wrap the lid in a clean tea towel or 2–3 paper towels. Cover the pan, making sure the fabric or paper towel is wrapped up around the handle so that it doesn’t catch fire. Reduce the heat to its lowest setting. Allow it to cook for about 50–60 minutes undisturbed. Fill the kitchen sink with 5cm (2in) of cold water Remove the pan from the stove, and place it in the sink. This helps loosen the famous golden crust or taadig. Take the lid off, spoon out a ladleful of rice and mix with the saffron liquid. Gently ladle the rice on to a serving dish and decorate with the saffron rice. Using a spatula, lift chunks of the crust off the bottom of the pan and place on top or serve on the side. foodies | 27
RECIPES JANE LOVETT
From Make it Easy by Jane Lovett, New Holland, £19.99
Try more of Jane’s recipes overleaf
Easy does it Happy home cooking is Jane Lovett’s aim with her delicious yet straightforward recipes. These three courses look as good as they taste – and even come in a cup at tea time JELLIED BORSCHT Serves 8 4 medium raw beetroot, cut into chunks 1 carrot, cut into chunks 1 onion, cut into chunks 1 stick of celery, cut into chunks 8 black peppercorns 3 x 400g tins of beef consommé 4 leaves of gelatine 2 tbsp crème fraiche 1 ⁄2 tbsp horseradish sauce Snipped fresh chives or 2 chopped spring onions 50 g jar Avruga or Onuga 'caviar' (optional)
● Put the beetroot, carrot, onion, celery and peppercorns in a pan. Add the consommé, bring to the boil and simmer for 30-40 minutes. Strain into a bowl. ● Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for 3-5 minutes until softened. Squeeze out the excess water and add to the hot but NOT boiling soup. Stir, cool, cover and refrigerate until required. Mix the crème fraîche and horseradish together, cover and set aside. ● Stir the Borscht, until it has broken up into a softish mass which looks like crushed ice. Divide between eight soup plates, bowls or cups and top each one with a dollop of the crème fraîche mixture, chives or chopped spring onions. Finish with the 'caviar', if using.
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RECIPES JANE LOVETT
SEA BASS WITH CHORIZO AND BUTTER BEANS A firm favourite we have for supper at least once a week after the fishmonger has been. It takes only minutes to make and is surprisingly filling, so needs little else other than a green salad. Depending on how hungry people are and what else you're eating with it, the butter bean mixture will happily stretch to three people but you will need another sea bass fillet.
Serves 2 2 large fillets of sea bass 10cm chorizo, halved lengthways and sliced 1 ⁄2 cm thick 8 small cherry tomatoes, halved Pinch of fresh or dried oregano Olive oil 1 clove of garlic, sliced thinly 400g tin butter beans, drained and thoroughly rinsed Salt and freshly-ground black pepper 2 large handfuls of baby spinach Squeeze of lemon juice Knob of butter
TOP TIP A drizzle of lemon oil at the end will enhance most fried fish recipes. Mustard greens, rocket, Swiss chard or shredded pak choi could replace the spinach.
● Slash the skin of the sea bass fillets twice and snip the edge of the skin in one place to help stop it curling up when cooking. Set aside. Warm two plates. Cook the chorizo in a dry frying pan for a few minutes until its oil begins to run and the chorizo is sizzling. Add the cherry tomatoes and oregano and cook for another few minutes until the tomatoes just begin to soften. Add a little olive oil, followed by the garlic and butter beans and stir until hot. Check the seasoning. ● Add the spinach and cook until just wilted. You may need a little more olive oil at this stage. Squeeze over some lemon juice, divide between the two warmed plates and keep warm. Wipe out the frying pan if necessary, heat a little more olive oil and the knob of butter, season the skin of the sea bass with salt and fry, skin side down first until the skin is brown and crispy.This will take about 2-4 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. Turn over and cook for another minute or two. Arrange skin side up on top of the butter beans and finish with a good swirl of olive oil over the top.
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RECIPES JANE LOVETT
TOP TIP Make the ginger creams up to 4 days in advance. The brittle can be made weeks in advance as it keeps almost indefinitely in an airtight container.
GINGER CREAMS WITH PISTACHIO BRITTLE An easy, gingery sort of crème brûlée topped with pistachio brittle. Try snapping the brittle into random shapes and handing it round in a small pretty dish after cheese instead of a pudding, or with coffee. Serves 8 6 tbsp ginger preserve 6 egg yolks 450ml double cream 175g granulated sugar 3 tbsp water 100g pistachio nuts, shelled and roughly crushed Icing sugar (optional)
Pre-heat the oven to 180ºC. Put 8 ramekins or small ovenproof dishes into a deep roasting tin. Boil a kettle of water. ● Whisk the ginger preserve and egg yolks together until pale. Bring the cream to just below boiling point and pour over the egg mixture, whisking all the time. The mixture will thicken slightly. Transfer to a jug and pour into the dishes. Put the roasting tin into the oven and pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the dishes. ● Cook for 20-25 minutes or until just set with a slight wobble in the middle. The custards will continue to cook once out of the oven. Remove from the water, cool, cover and refrigerate overnight. ●
● Whilst the custards are cooking make the brittle. Lightly oil a baking sheet or have ready a piece of silicone paper. Put the sugar and water into a saucepan and cook over a low heat, giving the odd very gentle stir, until the sugar has dissolved. Turn up the heat and boil fast until the sugar caramelises into a deep golden colour. Quickly add the pistachios, stir and tip out immediately on to the baking sheet or paper, spreading the mixture as thinly as possible. Leave to cool. ● Serve the creams straight from the fridge, dusted with icing sugar if you like. Break the brittle into random-sized pieces and scatter over the top or arrange shards sticking out at an angle.
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RECIPES FAY RIPLEY
Jubilee joy Come along to Foodies Festival at Hampton Court Palace, London on May 5, 6, 7 to celebrate the Queen’s 60 years on the throne with Fay Ripley, Emma Forbes, Levi Roots and Ed Baines
POACHED PESTO SEA BASS ON SUMMER SPAGHETTI Serves 4
Fay Ripley From What’s For Dinner? HarperCollins, £20 Q What's your favourite meal? A My grandma Ivy’s meltin-the-mouth mince pies, which could mend hearts, solve the global debt crisis and bring peace. She went to her grave with her recipe. I think I might be quite close to cracking it but I miss her. 34 | foodies
6 tbsp fresh pesto 4 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs 4 sea bass fillets (about 170g each), skinned 300g dried spaghetti 25g bunch of fresh mint leaves 25g bunch of fresh basil 2 tinned anchovy fillets 11⁄2 tbsp capers 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed 5 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
● Mix the pesto and breadcrumbs together. Lay a sea bass fillet in the middle of a large piece of cling film and spoon on a quarter of the pesto mix. Roll the fish up then fold over some cling film and roll it up tight. Roll this parcel in a piece of foil. When ready, pop the parcels in boiling water and simmer for 15 minutes till firm. Take out of the water but keep wrapped till ready to serve. ● Cook the pasta following the pack instructions, then drain. Now whizz or finely chop the mint, basil, anchovies, capers and garlic. Add the oil and vinegar then toss the dressing through the cooked pasta. ● Unwrap the tubes of fish, slice them into three pieces and serve on top.
RECIPES EMMA FORBES
GINGER AND PASSION FRUIT FOOLS Serves 6
Photograph copyright © Clive Streeter Taken from Life & Soul by Emma Forbes
1 tbsp crystallised ginger 15 passion fruit 450ml double cream 100g icing sugar Juice of half a lemon
Very finely chop the ginger and set aside. Cut the passion fruit in half, scoop out the flesh into a sieve and push through to extract the juice. ● In a large bowl, whisk the cream until it stands in soft peaks. Sift the icing sugar into a large bowl. Add the passion fruit juice and lemon juice and mix together, adding a further tablespoon of sifted icing sugar if the passion fruit are unripe and sour. ● Using a large metal spoon, gently fold the juice mixture, a spoonful at a time, into the whipped cream. Gently fold in the chopped crystallised ginger. Spoon the mixture into cocktail glasses and leave to set in the refrigerator for at least two hours. ●
Emma Forbes From Life & Soul, Ivy Press, £20 Q What's your favourite meal? A My favourite meal is always one of comfort food. I look for good, old-fashioned easy food. In an ideal world I would have wonderful roast chicken with rosemary and caramelised onions, seriously good mashed potato and peas. foodies | 35
RECIPES ED BAINES
GOAT'S CHEESE, BEAN, EGG AND ANCHOVY SALAD It may be a simple salad but it is princely fare that looks stunning if done correctly – and perfect for the royal occasion Serves 4 4 eggs Salt 250g green beans, topped and tailed 300g goat's cheese, sliced 100g anchovy fillets
For the dressing 6 cherry tomatoes, finely chopped Pinch of salt Pinch of sugar 1 ⁄2 teaspoon English mustard 1 tbsp sherry vinegar 5 tbsp olive oil Bunch of fresh curly parsley, finely chopped
● To prepare the dressing, put the cherry tomatoes in a bowl with a pinch of salt and the sugar. Add the remaining dressing ingredients and beat together using a whisk. Pour the dressing into a clean jam jar. Screw the lid on, shake vigorously for a minute or two and then place in the fridge to chill. ● Soft-boil the eggs (see tip). Carefully peel TOP TIP the eggs and put to one side. ● At this point, prepare to assemble the Boil the eggs for 4 minutes if they're at salad quickly, so it's made while the room temperature, or beans are still hot. In a large pot of for 41⁄2 minutes if boiling, salted water, blanch the beans you've kept them for 4 minutes. Drain immediately and in the fridge place into a bowl. Add the cheese and mix with a spoon, then add the dressing. Finally, add the anchovy fillets. ● Divide the mixture equally between four plates. Cut the soft-boiled eggs in half and place on top. Finish the dish by drizzling any dressing remaining in the bowl over the eggs.
Ed Baines is the chef and co-owner of Randall & Aubin, one of London's premier restaurants. He entered the catering business at 16, pursuing his childhood passion for food. Ed is is now one of the most prolific chefs on television and author of two best-selling books.
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RECIPES LEVI ROOTS
SALMON ST JAGO DE LA VEGA Serves 2 Levi Roots, of Dragon’s Den fame, is the man behind Reggae Reggae Sauce. His fourth cookbook Sweet is due out in July. Q Who would you most like to cook for? A Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall. I have great admiration for them and their charitable work.
2 salmon fillets 1 ⁄2 bottle Reggae Reggae Sauce or chilli barbecue sauce 4 tbsp vegetable oil 1 ⁄4 red pepper, finely chopped 1 ⁄4 green pepper, finely chopped 1 ⁄2 onion, finely chopped 1 spring onion, green end only, chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped A few small broccoli florets Put the salmon fillets in a dish, cover in sauce and leave to marinate in the refrigerator overnight. Brush off the excess sauce and reserve. ● Fry the salmon over a low heat on both sides for a few minutes. Remove the fish from the pan. Add the peppers, onion, spring onion, garlic and carrot to the pan with 200ml of water and mix in the reserved sauce. Add the salmon to the centre of the pan. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes, then add the broccoli and cook for a further 5 minutes. Serve. ●
RICE AND PEAS Serves 4 175g dried red kidney beans 1 whole coconut or 200g block creamed coconut, grated 3-4 tsp salt A knob of butter 1 whole Scotch bonnet chilli 1 spring onion, green end only, chopped 1 fresh thyme sprig 1 garlic clove 1 tsp all-purpose seasoning 500g pure basmati rice
● Rinse the beans in cold water, put them in a large bowl and cover with 1 litre of cold water. Leave to soak overnight. Drain the soaking water into a large pan and bring it to the boil. ● Rinse the beans and add to the boiling water. Bring back to the boil, cover and boil vigorously for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat and simmer for a further 35 minutes until the beans are soft. ● Smash the coconut on the floor, crack open and drain off the coconut liquid, reserving it. Remove the 'meat' from the shell with a sharp knife and grate into a bowl. Add the reserved coconut liquid, pour in 1 litre of hot water and stir well. For creamed coconut, mix with 2 litres of hot water. ● Add the coconut, salt, butter, chilli, spring onion, thyme, garlic and all-purpose seasoning to the pan of beans and boil for 15-20 minutes. ● Rinse the rice twice under cold running water, drain, then add to the pan. Make sure the liquid is 2.5cm above the level of the rice. Cook for 20-25 minutes on a gentle heat until all water is absorbed and the rice tender. Fluff up with a fork and serve immediately.
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RECIPES MARY BERRY
ASPARAGUS, GOAT'S CHEESE, AND PARMA HAM FILO ROLLS These are definitely smart enough to impress royalty. They're quick to assemble, too. Buy the goat's cheese in a tub –not a roll – and use vacuum-packed Parma ham, as you need evenly cut slices. Serve the rolls hot or warm.
Makes 48-60 18 asparagus spears, trimmed 12 slices Parma ham 6 tbsp soft spreadable goat's cheese 6 sheets filo pastry (each about 18 x 25cm in size) 100g butter, melted Mary Berry is a food writer, cookbook author and chef. From Cook up a Feast by Mary Berry and Lucy Young, DK, £20
Cook the asparagus in boiling salted water for two to three minutes or until just tender. Drain and refresh in cold water, then dry on kitchen paper. ● Lay two slices of ham next to each other lengthways on a board. One edge should overlap slightly. Spread a tablespoon of the goat's cheese over the ●
top so the ham is completely covered. Arrange three asparagus spears end to end along one of the long edges of the ham. Trim them slightly if they are too long, then roll the ham up tightly. ● Brush one sheet of filo with melted butter, sit the ham along one end, and roll tightly into a long sausage. Make five more sausages the same way, then transfer to the fridge to firm up. ● To serve, preheat the oven to 200°C . Slice each sausage diagonally into 8-10 slices, then arrange on a baking sheet and bake for 8-10 minutes or until golden and crisp. ● The rolls can be made up to 12 hours ahead. Not suitable for freezing. foodies | 41
RECIPE OF THE MONTH HARDEEP SINGH KOHLI
BHARWAN MIRCHA PAN-FRIED STUFFED CHILLIES Serves 4 4 red banana chillies (very large chillies for stuffing)
Hardeep worked with chef Anirudh Arora on these recipes from Food of the Grand Trunk Road by Hardeep Singh Kohli and Anirudh Arora, New Holland, £19.99
For the stuffing 3 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for frying 1 tsp mustard seeds 2.5cm piece ginger, peeled and chopped 2 green chillies, chopped A few curry leaves, chopped 2 carrots, peeled and very finely diced 60g peas, defrosted if frozen 3 potatoes, boiled and very finely diced 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp chilli powder Salt, to taste 1 ⁄2 tsp garam masala Juice of 1 lemon 30g Cheddar cheese, grated 2 tbsp mint and coriander chutney
● Cut the chillies in half lengthwise, deseed and set aside. Make the stuffing. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a pan, add the mustard seeds and allow them to crackle. Add the ginger, green chillies and curry leaves and sauté for 1 minute. ● Add the carrot and green peas and cook until soft. Add the potatoes, turmeric, chilli powder and salt. Cook for 2-3 minutes. Sprinkle over the garam masala and lemon juice and check for seasoning. Turn off the heat and allow the mixture to cool. ● Once cold, add the grated cheese and mint and coriander chutney. Stuff the chillies with this mixture. ● Heat a non-stick pan, add oil and cook the chillies for 1-2 minutes on each side over a low heat, turning regularly until golden. Make sure that the stuffing does not ooze out.
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RECIPES COOKING WITH KIDS
TOP TIP “While electric beaters are great time-savers, I always try to whip cream by hand. It gives me a little more control over the cream and prevents over-beating.”
BERRY BUTTERFLY CAKES Makes 12
Recipes and images taken from Bill Cooks for Kids by Bill Granger, Murdoch Books, £12.99
185g plain flour 3 tsp baking powder 125g unsalted butter, softened 1 tsp vanilla extract 150g caster sugar 2 eggs 125ml milk
To serve Whipped cream Raspberries Sliced strawberries Icing sugar
● Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line a 12hole muffin tin with large paper cases. Sift the flour and baking powder into a bowl. Add the butter, vanilla extract, sugar, eggs and milk and mix until smooth, either with electric beaters or a wooden spoon. Spoon the mixture into the paper cases. Bake for 17–20 minutes, or until golden brown. Leave in the tin for 5 minutes before turning out on to a wire rack to cool. ● Slice the tops off the cooled cupcakes, then cut each top in half. Spoon some whipped cream on to the cakes and decorate with raspberries and strawberries. Place the tops back on and sprinkle with icing sugar.
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FOODIES FOCUS COOK SCHOOLS
Class act Why not try making cup cakes or curry this month – or enjoy a wee tipple while you work
TENNENT’S TRAINING ACADEMY 161 Duke Street, Glasgow, G31 1JD Tel: 0845 166 6060 www.tennentstrainingacademy.co.uk Time to tweak your cup cake skills in this workshop that caters for beginners upwards. Toppings, sugar and piped decorations are covered and you get to take home your cupcakes. Classes are from 3-5pm on 2 June, £35.00 per person. EDINBURGH SCHOOL OF FOOD & WINE The Coach House, Newliston, Edinburgh EH29 9EB Tel: 0131 333 5001 www.esfw.com/day-glen.htm The Glenfiddich Gourmet Cookery School for Men is a day-long offering which focuses on using Scottish produce to create a threecourse meal. Then the real fun begins. In comes the Glenfiddich expert for a whisky nosing and tasting. The course runs from 10am to 5.00pm, on 2 June, and costs £130. And in something for the girls, there’s another day course. On The Veuve Clicquot Champagne Cookery School for Women, the ladies will create their own threecourse meal. Then, there’s a champagne tasting tutored by an Veuve Clicquot brand master. The course runs from 10am to 5pm, on 26 May, and costs £130.
LET’S COOK! The Steadings, Netherfield, Abernethy, Perthshire, PH2 9LL Tel: 07932 642605 www.letscookscotland.co.uk Why not give Thai a try to spice up your dinner menus. The Taste of Thailand Course aims to teach some of the country’s much-loved flavour combinations. It runs for a day and includes demonstrations and practical sessions. It starts at 10am, and ends at about 4pm on 20 May, and costs £105. HYNDBERRY 22 Craigmount Avenue, Edinburgh EH12 8HQ 01506 467132 www.hyndberry.co.uk In this course with a difference, the instruction is delivered in your own kitchen. Catriona Staddon will help
you make the most of your utensils and equipment – so make sure you clean up first. Classes are available throughout Edinburgh and the Lothians for groups of up to four, for a half day or a full day, Monday to Saturday. From £150.00. ASHOKA COOK SCHOOL 1 Enterprise Way, Motherwell, ML1 2TX Tel: 01413 425 200 www.ashokacookschool.com When it comes to good homecooked fare, you can’t beat a curry, In this Bhoona Master Class, four courses are delivered for lovers of Indian cusine – popadoms, spiced onions, raita, vegetable pakora, chicken karahi bhoona, pilau rice and roti. Classes are available on Saturdays and Sundays in May for £130 per session. ● foodies | 47
FOODIES FOCUS KITCHENS
Home sweet home Try the homespun look for interior décor that blends comfort with practicality and what better place to start than with the most sociable room in the house – the kitchen
48 | foodies
OOKING and eating spaces, now so often the same room in a house, see much of family life. They are somewhere to work, play, cook, eat, socialise or just enjoy a cup of coffee. So a vibrant homespun scheme that blends practicality with comfort is perfect. Even just a few decades ago, we ate and cooked in two very different places in the home. Food was prepared in the kitchen, often at the back of the house, while eating took place in a separate dining room. Today, we like to cook and eat in the same open-plan space, which, with homespun style can become a busy but gorgeous hub. Everyone can be together, to share and help with preparing food or setting the table, for that friendly, relaxed feel that is so central to homespun style. An open-plan cooking and eating area also makes more efficient use of the available space than individual rooms – ideal in smaller properties. Don't let the size of your kitchen deter you from using it as an eating space. Good design and thoughtful storage can create enough space for a small table and chairs, or consider having bench seating built in, which is space saving and can be designed to contain vital storages, too. In bigger rooms, let your imagination run free. With the right square footage, anything can go into a cooking and eating space, from high-tech appliances to sofas and bookcases. When it comes to furnishing your cooking and eating space, homespun style takes a loose, organic approach to even this highly-functional room. If you are starting from scratch, resist the temptation to install banks of built-in cupboards. Wall-hung units in particular can crowd out the space – a design faux pas in a small kitchen. Instead, try teaming built-in floor cupboards with pieces of freestanding furniture. Dressers, glassfronted cabinets, sideboards and even old wardrobes, sourced at markets or antique fairs, can hold a huge amount of kitchen equipment, while a large table can
FOODIES FOCUS KITCHENS
double up as a work surface. Alternatively, track down furniture from the 40s and 50s. Kitchens in this period typically included a mix of built-in and freestanding pieces, and you can find beautiful period cupboards in secondhand stores. If your existing kitchen cabinetry is sound but lacking in personality, there is much you can do. Consider refreshing your units with new doors. There are many specialists supplying made-tomeasure doors in a range of colours and finishes, or paint the old doors yourself. Stringing a homemade fabric panel in front of shelves or appliances is another budget makeover and a great way to introduce colour and pattern, too. If your splashback lacks charm, replace it with reclaimed tiles or some funky wallpaper, sealed behind Perspex or glass. Then work in some open shelving, to show off your favourite pieces while keeping them conveniently to hand. The disadvantage of a totally openplan space is that you are eating or socialising right next to your oven or sink, so think carefully about where you position your table and, if space allows, create a simple waist-height divide between your cooking and eating areas with a freestanding shelving unit. Source your table, chairs and other furniture at popular homespun hunting grounds such as markets or fairs. Practical ingredients like appliances need careful consideration. White goods are kitchen essentials but can look unappealingly workmanlike, so if possible, hide them within built-in units or behind a funky curtain. Alternatively, if your budget allows, invest in retro-style appliances, such as Smeg's FAB range, with its soft lines and cheerful colours. Remember to work in lighting that is both functional and atmospheric, too. Install task lighting in food preparation areas and softer downlighting for meal times. Positioning pendant lights over a table is a stock homespun-style look, helping to zone the area and create a 50 | foodies
From Homespun Style by Selina Lake, Rylands Peters and Small, ÂŁ19.99
cosy glow ideal for dining. In the openplan area like a cooking and eating space, flooring is visible. If you want to make the space feel bigger, use the same flooring throughout. Alternatively, you could zone the space by choosing two or three different materials or colours to distinguish between cooking and eating areas. Laying washable rugs or mats to define these areas is also effective, as is simply painting floorboards a different shade to show where one section ends and the other begins. â—?
FOODIE SPAS FLETCHERâ€™S COTTAGE
Fletcherâ€™s Cottage This newly-opened spa at Archerfield Golf Club in East Lothian was designed by Sian Parry Jones, formerly of Harrods, who has used her personal touch to create a stunning interior with comfy sofas overlooking the walled garden. I unwound in the marine steam room and then had a deluxe facial in the the Salt Healing room built with over 1,500 therapeutic salt bricks brought over from the Himalayas. The treatment included a back exfoliation and massage, followed by the organic facial, using finely ground wet organic seaweed to exfoliate the face. More layers of seaweed were then applied over a warm poultice seaweed mask. The treatment promised to soften dry and dehydrated skin and it certainly revived, refreshed and relaxed me.Tel: 01620 897 050; www.archerfieldgolfclub.com
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RESTAURANT REVIEW OSTERIA
OSTERIA WORDS: SUE HITCHEN
ne is made to feel entirely welcome at North Berwick's Osteria. Owner Angelo Cocchia and his daughter, head chef Daniella, pride themselves on their outstanding Italian food and great service. In fact, the venue was one of those nominated for Best Italian at this year’s Scottish Restaurant Awards. Provenance is very important to the pair and Angelo takes great pride in explaining that all meat and fish are very locally sourced. On the night we visited the restaurant was full, with a great buzz about it. Local residents welcomed Osteria's arrival in 2006 and are still enthusiastic, and many loyal customers who knew Angelo as the owner of Cosmo's still travel from Edinburgh to support his North Berwick venture. Osteria had been personally recommended by Tam Cowan, who made the trip from Glasgow, stating that his lunch at the restaurant even outshone the excitement of seeing national treasure Ronnie Corbett on the local golf course earlier that day. My partner started with Carpazzio di Manzana - thin slices of fillet of beef with rocket wholegrain mustard and lemon
Osteria 71 High Street North Berwick Tel: 01620 890589 www.osteria-no1.co.uk
dressing. The Aberdeen Angus beef was cooked rare and was melt-in-the-mouth delicious. I was very tempted by the homemade pasta and was not disappointed - the tagliolini al fruttie di mare was silky and light, and had an unmistakeable garlic flavour with a bite of chilli. Charmed by Angelo's tales of lobster caught fresh that morning in North Berwick Harbour, I opted for the special fresh fish of the day, which turned out to be a wonderful selection of grilled sea bass, prawns and freshly caught scallops. My partner thoroughly enjoyed Agnello Grigliato - the grilled lamb cutlets were cooked rare, leaving them very juicy and they were served with thinly sliced potato in a white wine and rosemary jus. This was all served with a bottle of house chianti, which was fresh, light and very drinkable. For dessert we shared two dishes: crème brulee and gelati e sorbetti. The crème brulee was served cold and for me missed the mark without its crispy hot sugar topping, but the homemade sorbets were fruity and a great end to the meal. ● foodies | 55
Packing a punch Fruity and refreshing, try these great ideas for the perfect Jubilee party drink ENGLISH SUMMER PUNCH Apples and cherries are a great flavour pairing and have always been combined in desserts with great results. The good news is, they work as well in a punch as they do in a cobbler or a crumble. 1.5ltr cloudy apple juice 125ml fresh lime juice (about 4 limes) 200ml sparkling mineral water, to top up 10 fresh cherries, to garnish
For the cherry-infused syrup 125g cherries, pitted 400g sugar Serves 10 ● To make the cherry syrup, put the cherries in a blender and blitz for 1 minute. ● Put the blended cherries, sugar, and 250 ml water in a saucepan set over low heat. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. ● Add the cherry syrup, apple juice, lime juice, and mineral water to a large punch bowl filled with ice and stir gently to mix. ● Serve garnished with fresh cherries.
From Punch Parties, by Ben Reed, Ryland, Peters & Small, £14.99 foodies | 57
QUEEN'S PARK SWIZZLE This drink is a kind of hybrid between the daiquiri and the mojito. The key to the intense flavour is to use a heavier sugar syrup, made from less-refined demerara sugar, which compliments the fuller style of rum. Serves 1 50ml Guyanese rum 20ml fresh lime juice 15ml dark sugar syrup (see below) 2 dashes Angostura bitters 5 fresh mint leaves, plus a mint sprig, to garnish To make a the dark sugar syrup, put 200g demerara sugar, 200g dark muscovado sugar and 250ml water in a saucepan set over low heat. Heat gently, stirring frequently, until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. ● Add the rum, lime juice, sugar syrup, Angostura bitters, and mint leaves to a highball glass filled with crushed ice. Swizzle by placing a barspoon or small whisk into the glass and swizzling between the palms of your hands until frost appears on the outside of the glass. ● Serve garnished with half a spent lime husk and a mint sprig. ●
REGENT'S PUNCH Also known as the George IV punch, it is often thought that the tea in this punch was the only thing that kept the Prince Regent on his feet. With the addition of champagne, it makes a great party punch for a special occasion, served from a classic bowl into dainty cups. Serves 10 600ml Earl Grey tea Zest of 3 lemons Zest of 1 orange 200g caster sugar 250ml Cognac 150ml dark Jamaican rum 250ml fresh lemon juice (about 6 lemons) 250ml pineapple juice 75ml champagne 58 | foodies
● Make up the Earl Grey tea and add the lemon and orange zests and sugar whilst still hot. Stir and set aside to cool. ● When cooled, put in a large punch bowl with the Cognac, rum, and lemon and pineapple juices. ● Stir gently to mix and add a large block of ice. Top up with the champagne just before serving in punch cups or glasses.
FOODIES BEST PUBS
Inn paradise In the second part of our series from The Good Pub Guide, Roger Protz discovers a modern bar with a great harbour view, a town-centre gem and a pair of lochside havens STEIN INN Stein Where End of B886, N of Dunvegan in Waternish, off A850 Dunvegan - Portree, IV55 8GA Lovely setting on northern corner of Skye, welcoming 18th-century inn with good, simple food, and lots of whiskies. This is Skye's oldest inn and stands above a sheltered inlet on the island's west coast with views of the Hebrides. The sunsets are glorious. and the unpretentious original public bar has great character, Caledonian Deuchars IPA and a couple of local guests such as Isle of Skye Red Cuillin and Orkney Golden
Amber are on handpump. There are 11 wines by the glass and more than 125 malt whiskies. Service is good from staff in smart uniforms. There's a lively children's inside play area and showers for yachtsmen. All the bedrooms have sea views and breakfast is good – it's well worth pre-ordering the tasty smoked kippers if you stay. Using local fish and highland meat, the good, simple and very sensibly-priced food includes lunchtime sandwiches – the haggis toastie and the seasonal crab are extremely popular. There is plenty more to choose
from, including hot smoked salmon platter and breaded haddock, with evening choices such as steak in ale pie, pork chop with walnut and blue cheese butter, duck breast with a creamy cider sauce, venison pie, and a fresh fish dish of the day. Benchmark main dish: Battered haddock and chips £10.25. Twocourse evening meal £15.50. Free house, licensees Angus and Teresa Mcghie. Real ale and bar food 12 noon (12.30pm Sun) - 4pm, 69.30pm (10pm Sun) – 01470 592362. Children welcome. Dogs allowed Open 11am-12 midnight , 12.30-11pm Sun. Bedrooms: £42S/ £72S (£106B). foodies | 61
STEAM PACKET Isle of Whithorn Where Harbour Row; DG8 8LL Friendly, family-run inn with waterside views, five real ales and tasty pub food. Big picture windows at this modernised inn have fine views out over a busy throng of yachts and fishing boats in the harbour. Timothy Taylor Landlord and guest beers such as Atlas (Orkney) Three Sisters, Fyne Ales Jarl, Kelburn Dark Moor and Sulwath The Grace are on handpump. There are quite a few malt whiskies and a good wine list. Bar food might include lunchtime sandwiches, mussels in wine, stir-fried chicken and specials like Cumberland sausage with red wine gravy. Benchmark main dish; beer-battered haddock and chips £9.95. Two-course evening meal £17.00. Real ale and bar food (12 noon-2pm, 6.30-9pm) - 01988 500334. Children welcome but not in bar. Dogs allowed. Open 11am(12 noon Sun) -11pm. Bedrooms: £40B PLOCKTON HOTEL Plockton Where Village signposted from A87 near Kyle of Lochalsh; IV52 8TN Lovely views from this family-run lochside hotel with very good food and real ales. This family-owned hotel is in the centre of a lovely National Trust for Scotland village and part of a long, low terrace of stone-built houses. Cairngorm Trade Winds and the local Plockton Bay are on handpump and there are 25 malt whiskies and several wines by the glass. Breakfast is good. Especially strong on fresh local seafood, the enjoyable food includes lunchtime sandwiches, whisky paté , langoustines, moules mariniere, venison casserole, and seafood platter. Benchmark main dish: seared local hand-dived scallops £16.95. Twocourse evening meal £17.25.
Real ale and bar food (12 noon-2.15pm, 6-9pm) - 01599 544274 - Children welcome - Local musicians Wed evening Open 11am-midnight (11.30 Sat); 12.30-11 Sun - Bedrooms: £55B/ £130B
The stunning view from the Tigh an Eilean Hotel, top; and the Plockton Hotel restaurant, where seafood is a speciality
TIGH AN EILEAN HOTEL Shieldaig Where Village signposted just off A896 Lochcarron - Gairloch; IV54 8XN Scottish Dining Pub of the Year. Stunningly set hotel with exceptional views, real ales, and delicious food. The setting of this friendly hotel easily stands out as one of the best of our top pubs in Scotland. It looks over the forested Shieldaig Island to Loch Torridon and then out to the sea beyond. Isle of Skye Black Cuillin and Blaven are on handpump and there are up to a dozen wines by the glass. The food might include sandwiches, herring roes on toast, linguine with surf clams, coq au vin, bangers and mash with onion and red wine gravy. Benchmark main dish: seafood stew £15.50. Two-course evening meal £16.75. Real ale and bar food (12am-9pm; 12noon-2.30pm. 01520 755251. Children welcome. Dogs welcome. Traditional live folk music. Open 11am-11pm. Bedrooms: £70B/£140B. foodies | 63
TRIED AND TREW RESTAURANTS & BARS WORDS JONATHAN TREW
COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH: THE HENDRICK’S JUBILEE PUNCH
Cry out TIP with Bria for ‘More’ in Oliver! n Connelly this mon then have th, a at No 12 few more Place aftPicardy er the show
A splendid British summer punch recipe that is guaranteed to be a most delightful addition to any occasion this summer 3 teacups Hendrick’s Gin 60ml elderflower cordial; 30ml lovage cordial 60ml Maraschino liqueur 75ml freshly-squeezed lemon Juice 750ml cloudy apple juice Glass: teacups; Garnish: cucumber and lemon slices Combine all ingredients and mix lovingly together. Add ice and sliced fruit as desired.
THE POURHOUSE GLASGOW The Finnieston area of Glasgow is very rapidly on the up, which makes the punning title of this new bar rather ironic. It’s a calm space with plenty of light, thanks to the massive windows. A thirsty squirrel attached to the wall makes the exterior hard to miss. Gourmet pub grub and Sunday brunches are the stock in trade on the food front and, if you have tippling in mind, four real ales compete with the other beers on the bar and a decent wine selection. 1038-1042 Argyle Street, Glasgow Tel: 0141 221 4449 www.thepourhouse.co.uk THE ROSEHIP BAR AND RESTAURANT EDINBURGH Is Edinburgh’s Rose Street hip? Well, the new Rosehip Bar and Restaurant aims to add some cool. Taking over the premises recently vacated by David Ramsden’s Sea Dogs, The Rosehip 64 | foodies
offers Scottish pub grub at a price that won’t worry the wallet. Alongside the sausage ‘n’ mash, burgers and lasagne are more upmarket daily specials like the scallops served with Stornoway black pudding and pea puree. More than 200 malts will keep whisky lovers from feeling drouthy. 43 Rose Street, Edinburgh Tel: 0131 225 8028 CAFE DARNA GLASGOW Cafe Darna has taken root at the Charing Cross address last occupied by the Queen of Sheba restaurant. There are pizzas and omelettes and burgers for sale but the restaurant’s heart, or rather stomach, lies further east. Biryanis, curry dishes and tikkas from the charcoal grill are the real show-stoppers here. Cafe Darna is unlicensed but we have had glowing recommendations for the mango lassi drinks. St George’s Road, Glasgow Tel: 0141 353 6528
PARTY TIME WINE The King’s Favour Sauvignon Blanc 2010, £9.99 for two or more, Majestic Wine A balanced and sauvignon blanc with an intense nose. Windy Peak Chardonnay 2010, £10.99, Majestic Wine A vibrant wine with citrus and apple aromas. Jacquart Brut Mosaïque Champagne, NV, £26.50, Great Western Wines A delicious wellbalanced mediumbodied champagne to celebrate a great occasion.
FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL Celebrate the best food and drink at:
HAMPTON COURT PALACE
H WATCLIN E H C I M STARS CHEFING COOK LIVE
May 5, 6, 7
BRIGHTON HOVE LAWNS May 25, 26, 27
TATTON PARK July 6, 7, 8
July 13, 14, 15 S SEE U E AT TH SIXTH
August 10, 11, 12
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August 17, 18, 19 OXFORD
August 25, 26, 27 Book advance tickets
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FRESH IDEAS Neil Forbes and Tom Kitchen at Plot to Plate at Edinburgh’s Botanics
TALENT SPOTTING Mark Greenaway and friends watch his appearance on BBC2’s Great British Menu
FARM FOODS Chefs Dale Mailley and Edward Murray serve lunch at Edinburgh’s Farmers Market in their new pop-up restaurant venture The Gardener’s Cottage.
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