ISSUE 27 | DECEMBER 2011 SCOTTISH EDITION | FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
W IN A ROMA N
T CASTLE C ESCAPE
XMAS LOVE Gordon Ramsay shares fresh festive ideas
HIT THE ROAD Hardeep Singh Kohli’s India
33 RECIPES and top chefs Lorraine Pascale Gino D’Acampo Paul Kitching Pierre Hermé Mark Hix
OZ CLARKE’S FESTIVE WINES • PARTY CANAPÉS • EAT BARBADOS
It’s Christmas! Published by the Media Company Publications Ltd 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh EH3 6TL Tel: 0131 226 7766 Fax: 0131 225 4567 www.foodiesmagazine.com
EDITORIAL Editor Sue Hitchen Design Nicola Flynn Digital Imaging Malcolm Irving Production Editor Caroline Whitham Advertising Production Oliver Chandler THE PERFECT CHRISTMAS GIFT Receive a copy of Foodies every month. Only £15 (regular price £24) for 12 issues delivered to your door Call 0131 226 7766 or email the editor: firstname.lastname@example.org
ADVERTISING Sales Manager Bill Mackay Liam Johnston Business Development Matthew Magee Liam Johnston Liam Johnston Liam Johnston Liam Johnston Front cover image from Christmas with Gordon by Gordon Ramsay, Quadrille, £15
re you hanging up your stocking on your wall? It doesn’t seem like a year has passed since last Christmas, but already it’s time to order your turkey and start planning your festive feast. A ROMA Thankfully we have lots of suggestions to make NT CASTLE IC the big day go smoothly, including Oz Clarke’s BREAK festive wine guide. Whether you’re going for P22 Margaret Fulton’s traditional turkey or Gordon Ramsay’s pan-fried duck, Christmas dinner should be a breeze. It’s also lovely to spend some time baking with the kids over the festive period, when everyone can relax and enjoy the process. Iced biscuits not only look great but are surprisingly easy to make, and will allow children to get creative with their decorations. Turn to page 52 to find out more. If you’re hosting parties at this time of year, it can be tricky to decide what canapes to serve. To help you out, we have creative ideas from Edinburgh chef Mary Breen, who is an expert on all things mini. Christmas pudding on a spoon, anyone?
Sue Hitchen, Editor CONTRIBUTORS
Gordon Ramsay is probably Britain’s most famous chef, and is the holder of 12 Michelin stars at his restaurants worldwide.
Hardeep Singh Kohli is a writer and radio and television presenter. He performs stand-up as the Nearly Naked Chef
Gino D’Acampo is the master of modern Italian cooking. He regularly appears on TV and is a resident on ITV’s This Morning.
Lorraine Pascale is a former model turned patisserie chef, and the presenter of the BBC’s Home Cooking Made Easy foodies | 3
BOOKS, TV AND EVENTS
GORDON RAMSAY 14 Michelin-starred Christmas cooking WIN A CASTLE GETAWAY
HARDEEP SINGH KOHLI 24 journeys down the Grand Trunk Road
MICHELIN STARS 31 Rounding up the restaurants that have retained their stars this year RECIPE OF THE MONTH Paul Kitching’s Christmas trifle
CHRISTMAS CANAPÉS 36 Mary Breen suggests easy recipes IN SEASON: CHRISTMAS 40 Recipes from Lorraine Pascale, Margaret Fulton, Mark Hix, Diana Henry and Gino D’Acampo
GLUTEN-FREE XMAS CAKE
OZ CLARKE WINES Stock up on these top wines this festive season
COOKING WITH KIDS 52 Cute Christmas biscuits to bake and decorate with the kids
SPA REVIEW Dalhousie Castle near Edinburgh
TABLE DESIGN 58 The perfect setting for a dinner party BAKE OF THE MONTH 63 Pierre Hermé’s milena macarons CHRISTMAS GIFTS
RESTAURANT REVIEW: KYLOE 67 foodies | 5
NEW BARS & RESTAURANTS
FOODIE TRAVEL: BARBADOS
RECIPES LIGHT BITES Parmesan stars Roast beef Yorkshire puddings
MEAT Pan-fried duck breast Lamb curry with chickpeas Chicken biryani Roast turkey with stuffing
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VEGETARIAN Egg curry with potatoes Camembert with cranberry
FISH & SEAFOOD Pan-fried scallops with capers DESSERTS & BAKING Christmas bombe Christmas trifle Mini Christmas puddings Christmas mess Snow biscuits Panettone Gluten-free Christmas cake Christmas pudding biscuits Penguin biscuits Bauble biscuits Milena macarons
69 20 35 39 43 44 45 47 52 53 55 63
27 DRINKS & COCKTAILS Goji tea Metropolitan Sloe gin fizz Apricot royale Hot gin punch
69 71 72 72 75
WWW.FOODIES-MAGAZINE.COM 6 | foodies
Spice up her life A creative Glasgow cook has come up with a spicy new condiment, which is outselling Heinz Chilli Tomato Ketchup in her local Waitrose. Susan McCann, who came up with JUSTaddCHILLI in her Newton Mearns kitchen, won her place on the shelves after a Dragon’s Den style presentation. Within months she went from selling the sauce at farmer’s markets to being listed in every Scottish Waitrose. “I never dreamed I’d be selling on the shelves of Waitrose, let alone looking for bigger premises,” Susan says. www.justaddchilli.com
Exotic eats Coeliacs and those that follow a gluten-free diet can finally enjoy their favourite Indian snacks again, thanks to an enterprising family business. Mother and daughter team Afia and Rukhsana have created freshly-made pakoras, bhajis, samosas, chappatis and dips using gluten-free flour and other ingredients, and have made them available for mail order all over the country. afias.co.uk
Festive cheeseboards will look all the more spectacular thanks to a choice of truckles from Mull of Kintyre cheddar. Cut the purple wax coating to reveal Extra Mature cheddar. The cheese is made to a traditional recipe and is priced from £1.89 for 200g. www.high landsandislands cheese.co.uk
Nibbly bits Family-owned Scottish company Dean’s is branching out with some innovative new ideas. First up is a collaboration with Seriously Strong to create a new range of Cheese Oat Nibbles. The mini biscuits were a big hit at Foodies HQ, disappearing within minutes of being opened. www.deans-shortbread.co.uk
Blog roll of honour The rise of food blogs seems inescapable these days, with more and more people taking to the Internet to share their experiences of eating out and cooking at home. It takes a lot of talent, however, for a blogger to gain recognition in the traditional press, which is something that Edinburgh’s Hilary Sturzaker, the founder of mymonkfish.com, has recently achieved with two big accolades. Over the summer her site was named Olive magazine’s Blog of the Month, and more recently was awarded 13th place in The List’s Thirty Best Scottish Websites.
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Make Me A Gingerbread House Kit, £18.50, Jamie At Home, michelleliston @btinternet.com
Umbra Grapevine Red Wine Rack, £22.50, Red Candy, www.redcandy.co.uk
Make your season bright with these festive ideas that will look great in your Christmas kitchen
Snowman Mug & Coaster, £12.50, Portmeirion, www.portmeirion.co.uk
Holmegaard Christmas Bottle, 65cl, £35, www.johnlewis.com
Nativity Tea and Egg Cosies, £14.50, Poppy Treffry, www.poppytreffry.co.uk
Mulled Wine Pot with Heater, £25, Drift Living, www.driftliving.co.uk
Festive Cake Stand, £6.50, Berry Red, www.berryred.co.uk foodies | 11
BOOKS, TV AND WHAT’S ON
COOKING THE BOOKS Australian Wine Companion 2012 James Halliday, Hardie Grant, £16.99 Nobody knows Aussie wine better than James Halliday, who shares his comprehensive guide to vintages and vineyards for another year. How to Drink at Christmas Victoria Moore, Granta Books, £9.99 Don’t be downhearted as you browse the supermarket shelves looking for fizz or cocktail ingredients – Moore has all the answers when it comes to festive booze. The Best Wines in the Supermarkets 2012 Ned Halley, Foulsham, £7.99 Make sure you get perfection instead of plonk by taking this pocket companion with you on the weekly shop.
I spy… On our weekly visit to Edinburgh’s farmers’ market on Castle Terrace, Foodies magazine was surprised to see Spanish restaurant Igg’s doling out hearty portions of paella. On stopping for a free sample, we noticed the TV cameras and the dapper host of The Restaurant Inspector, Fernando Peire, wearing a smart white apron and giving orders to the staff. Look out for the new series hitting Five next year, and find out whether Piere and the irrepressible owner of Igg’s, Iggy Campos, got on like a house on fire or saw sparks fly.
WHAT’S ON IN THE SPIRIT OF CHRISTMAS 9 December, Ayrshire Culzean Castle will be hosting two foodie events this festive season. On the 9th lucky guests can attend a fourcourse dinner in the castle, with champagne and canapés in the Armoury followed by a tour. Dinner, which is served in the State Dining Room, will feature the best local produce. Then, from 11am-4pm on the 11th, shop for Christmas gifts and Yule treats at the Christmas Market on the castle’s grounds.
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TERRE MADRE DAY 10 December, Edinburgh This is a big day for slow food fans around the world – it’s the day to celebrate Mother Earth and good, clean, fair food. Neil Forbes of Café St Honore will be honouring Terre Madre with a day of festive masterclasses and a delicious twocourse lunch. He’ll show you how to get the most from Perthshire roe deer and organic chicken, and how to make the best seasonal trimmings. £25 per person, www.cafesthonore.com
WINE & DINE 18 December, Edinburgh Sample the very best of Scottish cuisine at Edinburgh Castle’s special Christmas Wine and Dine lunch, from 1pm. Begin with wild boar and morel paté en croute with pinot noir, then try hot smoked organic salmon with reisling, followed by breast of Gressingham duck with shiraz and an apple and frangipane torte with a sweet reisling. All courses are accompanied by the best views in the city. £52 each. www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk
MEET THE CHEF GORDON RAMSAY
Cracking Christmas Gordon Ramsay shares some of his favourite festive dishes with an unusual twist, and suggests the best wines to accompany the feast
ortunately, there is an excellent choice of wines on offer in supermarkets and specialist shops at a range of prices. In general, opt for a white wine that appeals to most tastes, rather than something full and demanding. Select an aromatic white according to your budget from: Loire Valley whites, such as sancerre and pouilly-fumé, New World sauvignon blanc and Bordeaux blanc sec (both ideal with party food) Australian Riesling, gavi di gavi, New World chenin blanc or viognier. As for red wines, look for a lively young wine with all-round appeal and the fruit to live up to a variety of flavours. Mediterranean reds in particular could feature here: southern Italian reds like primitivo, salice salentino and negromaro, Tuscan reds and rioja crianza. Chilean merlot and Argentinian malbec are well worth considering, and young bordeaux, such as côtes de Bourg, fronsac and premieres côtes de Bordeaux can also be attractive bargains. And don’t overlook rosé, once a summer drink, now suitable year-round. Seek out a dryish wine from Languedoc or Provence. Of the countless other winestyle options, good non-vintage champagne such as Pol Roger or Louis Roederer is traditional, refined and fun all 14 | foodies
From Christmas with Gordon by Gordon Ramsay, Quadrille, £15
at the same time; it also makes a perfect companion to smoked salmon. Prosecco and good-quality fizz – from the New World, Loire Valley or even England – also work well, particularly with party food. Sherry and port are not necessarily everyone’s first choice, but good-quality fino and manzanilla can be a revelation and have the guts to stand up to pretty much anything, although they must be fresh and probably chilled. A glass of pleasantly chilled tawny port, probably a ten-year-old one, makes a fine drink to go with stilton or on its on as an aperitif. ●
A glass of pleasantly chilled tawny port makes a as an aperitif fine drink on its own
Try Gordon’s recipes overleaf
GORDON’S CHRISTMAS WINE SUGGESTIONS Roast turkey: white burgundy or New World chardonnay Beef Wellington: rioja reserva Glazed ham: pinot noir from Australia or a red burgundy Sea bass: riesling from Australia Roast goose: dry/off-dry Riesling from Alsace or Germany
RECIPES GORDON RAMSAY
PAN-FRIED SCALLOPS WITH CAPER, RAISIN AND OLIVE VINAIGRETTE Serves 4 250g medium new potatoes, scrubbed Sea salt and freshlyground black pepper 2-3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle 12 large king scallops, shelled and cleaned 70g baby salad leaves Squeeze lemon juice
Cook the potatoes in a pan of salted water for 12-15 minutes until just tender. Drain and leave until cool enough to handle, then peel away the skins and slice into 5mm thick rounds. Set aside. ● For the vinaigrette, put the capers, raisins, olives and water into a small pan and bring to a simmer. Immediately tip into a food processor and add the vinegar, olive oil and some seasoning. Whiz until smooth. ● When ready to serve, heat a little olive ●
oil in a large frying pan and sauté the sliced potatoes with some sea salt and pepper for 2 minutes on each side, or until golden and crisp. Remove and keep warm. ● Wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper, then heat a little more oil in it until very hot. Lightly season the scallops on both sides then sauté in the oil for about a minute on each side, until golden brown and springy when pressed. Remove from the pan to a warm plate and rest.
For the vinaigrette 25g capers, rinsed and drained 25g raisins 25g green olives, pitted 100ml water 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 3 tbsp olive oil
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RECIPES GORDON RAMSAY
PAN-FRIED DUCK BREAST WITH SPICED ORANGE AND CRANBERRY SAUCE This is an elegant main course, perfect for a dinner party. I would recommend buying either Gressingham or Barbary duck breasts. Serves 4 4 duck breasts, about 225g each 4 juniper berries Pinch caraway seeds 1 tsp allspice Sea salt and freshlyground black pepper
For the sauce 100ml ruby port 100g fresh cranberries Finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange 1 ⁄2 cinnamon stick 1 star anise 300ml chicken stock 1-2 tsp cranberry or redcurrant jelly, to taste 30g butter, diced
● Lightly score the skins of the duck breasts with a sharp knife. Using a pestle and mortar, grind the juniper berries, caraway seeds, allspice, 1 tsp salt and a few grinds of pepper to a powder. Rub the spice mix all over the duck breasts and leave to stand for about 10 mins. ● Lay the duck breasts, skin-side-down, in a large, dry, heavy-based frying pan and gradually turn up the heat. Fry for 510 minutes, until most of the fat has reduced and the skin is golden brown. ● Turn the duck breasts over and lightly brown the other side for a couple of minutes or until they feel slightly springy when pressed. Remove from the pan and leave to rest in a warm place while you make the sauce. ● For the sauce, pour off all excess fat from the frying pan and place over a
high heat. Pour in the port, stirring to deglaze, and allow to bubble for a minute. Add the remaining ingredients, except the butter, and bring to the boil. Simmer until the liquid has reduced by two-thirds and thickened to a syrupy consistency. The cranberries should be very soft; squash a few with a wooden spoon, leaving the others whole. Add any juices from the resting duck. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Finally add the butter and shake the pan to incorporate it as it melts. ● Slice the duck breasts on the diagonal and fan them out on warmed serving plates. Spoon the sauce around the duck and serve.
foodies | 19
RECIPES GORDON RAMSAY
CHRISTMAS BOMBE This impressive dessert can be made well in advance and kept in the freezer for up to a month.
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400g good-quality chocolate Swiss roll (jumbo size) 390g jar cherries in kirsch-flavoured syrup 180g caster sugar 75ml water 2 large eggs 300ml double cream 50g preserved stem ginger in syrup, chopped, plus 1 tbsp syrup from the jar 1 tbsp Grand Marnier or Cointreau 50g chopped mixed glacé fruit 30g marron glacé, chopped (optional) 30g shelled pistachio nuts, toasted and roughly chopped Few redcurrant sprigs, to finish Icing sugar, to dust
● Line a 2-litre bowl with a double layer of clingfilm, leaving some excess overhanging the rim. Cut the Swiss roll into 1cm discs and use to line the base and sides of the bowl, cutting a few of the slices into pieces to fill the gaps as necessary. Drain the cherries, reserving the syrup. Drizzle the Swiss roll slices with the kirsch syrup, saving a few tbsp for the top. Set aside. ● Put the sugar and water into a small, heavy-based saucepan and stir over a low heat to dissolve. Increase the heat to high and boil until the syrup registers 120ºC on a sugar thermometer. Meanwhile, in a large, clean bowl, whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks. ● When the sugar syrup is ready, gradually pour on to the egg whites in a steady stream, whisking as you do so. Continue to whisk until the meringue has doubled in volume and the sides of the bowl no longer feel hot. ● In another bowl, whisk the cream to soft peaks. Fold in the ginger syrup and orange liqueur, followed by the meringue. Taste and sweeten with a little more ginger syrup if required. Stir through the cherries, chopped ginger, glacé fruit, marron glacé (if using) and chopped pistachios. Spoon into the Swiss roll-lined bowl and level the top. ● Cover with the remaining Swiss roll slices, cutting them to fit as necessary. Drizzle with the rest of the kirsch syrup, then fold the excess clingfilm over the top to seal. ● Place a flat plate on top – one that just fits inside the rim – and weigh it down with a heavy tin. Chill for an hour, then remove the weight, wrap and freeze the bombe. ● To serve, unwrap the bombe and place on a flat plate or cake stand. Decorate with sprigs of redcurrant dusted with icing sugar. Stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before slicing.
CO M PE TI TI O N
WIN a historic castle getaway in Northumberland
oodies magazine has teamed up with Langley Castle to offer one lucky reader and a friend the chance to win a luxurious medieval castle stay, including dinner, bed and breakfast. Built in 1350, during the reign of Edward III, Langley Castle has retained its architectural integrity and is regarded as one of the few medieval fortified castle hotels in England. Set in its own ten-acre woodland estate, the lucky reader and their friend will enjoy a peaceful and tranquil refuge in which to escape from today's hustle and bustle. The guest rooms are individual and unique, and all have private facilities, many with fourposter beds and feature bathrooms. The new Crystal Pavilion has just been completed, attached to the hotel’s 56seat Josephine restaurant. The menu at
Josephine is overseen by head chef Andy Smith, and offers a variety of cuisines to please every palate, with Andy’s signature modern English twist. Local produce, seasonal fish and local game are all specialties. After dinner, retire to the sumptuous drawing room with its blazing log fire, stained glass windows and rich furnishings, which is the ideal place to unwind with a drink. Langley Castle is also a perfect venue for castle wedding receptions, private functions, exclusive use, exceptional dining or just a weekend getaway in Northumberland. ●
Langley Castle Hotel, Langley-on-Tyne, Hexham, Northumberland NE47 5LU Tel: 01434 688 888 www.langleycastle.com
TO ENTER: For your chance to win this great prize, simply answer the following question:
What year was Langley Castle built? Send your answer and contact details on a postcard to Foodies, 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh EH3 6TL, email email@example.com or enter online at www.foodiesmagazine.com
Terms and conditions: The winner will be the first correct entry drawn on the 5th January 2012. The prize is subject to availability and Langley Castle’s terms and conditions, and must be booked in advance. There is no cash alternative and the editor’s decision is final. 22 | foodies
MEET THE CHEF HARDEEP SINGH KOHLI
Hardeep into India Glasgow comedian and chef Hardeep Singh Kohli took an eye-opening journey along India’s Grand Trunk Road, starting in the quintessential Raj city of Calcutta
o it begins. All the way over on the flight I find myself humming the Pubjabi folk song GT Road. The irony is that I couldn’t be further from the Punjab, the object of desire of that song, than when arriving in Bengal. I have been to Calcutta before and have strong, visceral memories of the city. It’s a myriad of mayhem, a panoply of pandemonium; unsurprising given that it’s the world’s eighth most denselypopulated city. Like so many Indian cities, Calcutta transforms under the canopy of darkness. The bustle and hustle seem to find new extremes as the gloom of night ensues. I glide through the streets, a man on a mission. In a small turning off the main drag, there’s a place called Kusum’s Rolls and Kebabs. Evening has fallen with a graceless bump, and Kusum’s is doing a roaring trade. The hut itself is just two men deep and no more than thirteen feet wide, hewn into the side of a building. Behind the counter three bodies move and work and cook. A man takes orders and money; a 12-year-old boy rolls large discs of flour to a uniform diameter of seven inches, which are then lightly oiled and placed on a massive tava, a flat steel plate big enough to accommodate at least thirty of these discs. Expertly, the third fella fries
24 | foodies
Hardeep worked with chef Anirudh Arora on these recipes
the parathas to a crisp golden brown. The cooked breads are then passed to the boy to be stuffed and finally to the customer to be consumed. In a quarter of an hour I witnessed almost four dozen rolls dispatched; they sell around a thousand a day. That’s a third of a million per year. My eye is caught by the egg version of the roll. An egg is broken on the almostcooked paratha and scrambled. The cooked egg/paratha is then stuffed with onions, freshly chopped green chillies and (bizarrely) Chinese-spiced tomato sauce. It is utterly delicious. Surprisingly light for what one might expect to be a
The bustle and hustle of Calcutta seems at night to find new extremes
Try Anirudh’s recipes opposite & overleaf
ponderously heavy snack, given the frying process. I enjoy the most delightful silence in my head as I consume. Taking a moment to capture an image of the busy hut and the never-diminishing queue of hungry customers, I slip off into the Calcutta gloom for a couple of vodka tonics. But, like all truly great food, the memory never remains too distant. I return after my third vodka for a double egg karathi roll. ●
RECIPES HARDEEP SINGH KOHLI
ALOO DIMER JHOL EGG CURRY WITH POTATOES
From Food of the Grand Trunk Road by Hardeep Singh Kohli and Anirudh Arora, New Holland, £19.99
Serves 4 2 small potatoes, peeled Oil, for shallow frying 8 hard-boiled eggs, peeled 4 garlic cloves 1 onion, chopped 3 tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 bay leaf 1 cinnamon stick 3 green cardamom pods 3 cloves 2.5 cm piece ginger, peeled and chopped 2 green chillies, slit lengthways 1 ⁄2 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp chilli powder Salt, to taste 1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander
● Slice the potatoes lengthways. Heat some oil in a non-stick frying pan and shallow-fry the potatoes over a low heat until just cooked through. Drain on kitchen paper and set aside. Fry the eggs, whole, in the same oil as you cooked the potatoes for 2-3 minutes and set aside. ● Put the garlic cloves, chopped onion and tomatoes in a blender or food processor and blend until you have a smooth purée. Set aside. ● Add a little more oil to the pan and, once hot, add the bay leaf, cinnamon stick, green cardamom pods and cloves, and cook for a couple of minutes until the flavours infuse. Add the ginger and green chillies and cook for 2 minutes. Add the tomato and onion purée, cover and cook on a medium heat for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally. ● Add the turmeric, cumin, chilli powder and salt. Add 250 ml water and gently simmer for a further 8-10 minutes, until the mixture thickens. Add the potatoes and eggs and cook for a further 5 minutes. Serve sprinkled with chopped fresh coriander.
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RECIPES HARDEEP SINGH KOHLI
MANGSHO GHUGNI LAMB AND CHICKPEA CURRY Serves 4 400 g chickpeas (dried, not tinned) 50ml mustard oil 2 bay leaves 3 green cardamom pods 3 cloves garlic 1 cinnamon stick 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 onion, chopped 1 kg boneless lamb from the leg, cut into 2.5cm pieces 1 tbsp ginger and garlic paste (see top tip) 1 ⁄2 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp chilli powder 1 ⁄2 tsp ground cumin 2 tomatoes, finely chopped Salt, to taste 1 tsp garam masala Few sprigs fresh coriander, chopped
● Soak the chickpeas in water overnight. Boil in fresh water for about 1-11⁄2 hours until soft. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid, and set aside. ● Heat the oil in a large pan and add the bay leaves, green cardamom pods, cloves and cinnamon stick. Allow to infuse. Add the cumin seeds and, once they have crackled, add the chopped onion and cook until golden brown. Add the lamb and cook over a high heat until browned. ● Add the ginger and garlic paste and cook for 2-3 minutes. Add the ground
turmeric, ground coriander, chilli powder, ground cumin and salt. Mix well. Add chopped tomatoes and cook until soft. Add enough of the chickpea cooking water to cover the lamb and cook for 25-30 minutes over a medium heat. ● Add the cooked chickpeas and cook for 10-12 minutes, until the meat is tender. Add a little more water if it looks too dry. Adjust the seasoning and sprinkle over the garam masala and chopped fresh coriander.
TOP TIP Ginger and garlic paste is a simple paste made from roughly twothirds garlic and one-third peeled ginger, peeled and blended with enough oil and water to make a smooth paste. It should keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week. It is also available ready-made in jars from good supermarkets or Indian grocers.
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RECIPES HARDEEP SINGH KOHLI
CHICKEN BIRYANI CHICKEN WITH BASMATI RICE Serves 4 500g basmati rice Vegetable oil, for deep frying 3 onions, sliced 2 poussin, each cut into 4 pieces 1 tsp caraway seeds 2 tbsp ginger and garlic paste 1 tbsp chilli powder 1 tbsp ground coriander 1 tbsp garam masala 1 tsp salt, or to taste 200 g thick natural yoghurt 2 tsp kewra water 8 stoned prunes 4 black cardamom pods 3 bay leaves 2 cinnamon sticks 7 green chillies, slit lengthways Few sprigs mint, chopped 1 lemon, sliced 1 ⁄2 tsp ground green cardamom 1 ⁄2 tsp saffron threads, soaked in a little hot water for 20 minutes
● Rinse rice in several changes of cold water until water runs clear, then leave to soak in warm water for 1 hour. ● Meanwhile, heat oil in a wok until a cube of bread browns in 30 secs. Add the onions and deep-fry until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. ● Skin poussin pieces. Heat 50 ml oil in the wok, add caraway seeds and leave over a gentle heat for a few minutes to allow their flavour to infuse. Stir in a quarter of the fried onions and the poussin pieces and cook on high for 2-3 mins until chicken is seared all over. Add ginger paste and cook, stirring, for 5 mins. Add chilli powder, coriander, garam masala and salt. Mix well. ● Whisk remaining onions into yoghurt
FOODIES SUGGESTS: Kewra water, as well as many Indian herbs and spices, is available from specialist stores or online from sites such as www.theasiancookshop.co.uk
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and add to pan, then cover and cook on low for 12-15 mins until the chicken is almost cooked. Add the kewra water and prunes and cook for a further minute, then turn off the heat and set aside. ● Bring a pan of water to the boil with black cardamoms, bay leaves and cinnamon. Drain rice, add to boiling water and cook for about 5 mins until half cooked. Drain. Preheat oven to 180°C. ● Place three-quarters of the rice in a layer over base of a large casserole, spread chicken mixture on top, then add chillies, mint, lemon and cardamom. Cover with the rest of the rice and sprinkle over saffron and its water. Cover and cook in oven for 10 minutes. Gently mix chicken and rice together before serving.
FOODIE FOCUS MICHELIN STARS
Star turns In the second part of our Michelin series, we look at the restaurants that have retained their stars this year. Words Rachael McConnell
21212, Edinburgh This innovative restaurant mixes the contemporary with the traditional in its renovated Georgian townhouse setting. The original name reflects the number of dishes per course and includes creations such as ‘Red & Yellow’, a dish that incorporates coloured ingredients such smoked haddock, red and yellow pimiento squares and pink radish. Tel: 0845 22 21212 www.21212restaurant.co.uk The Peat Inn, Cupar, Fife This ‘restaurant with rooms’ outside St. Andrews is run by Geoffrey and Katherine Smeddle and focuses on the finest seasonal and local ingredients. Geoff was formerly Head Chef at Etain and serves up an à la carte menu including grouse, puy lentils, pancetta, cocotte potatoes, damson compote and Madeira sauce. Tel: 01334 840 206 www.thepeatinn.co.uk
Braidwoods, Dalry, North Ayrshire Based in a crofter’s cottage and very personally run by Keith and Nicola Braidwood, this intimate restaurant serves seasonal and regional produce including seared hand dived West Coast scallops and roast loin of rabbit stuffed with mushroom, wrapped in parma ham and topped off with a caper jus. Tel: 01294 833 544 www.braidwoods.co.uk
From top: Martin Wishart, Albannach, 21212, number one
Albannach, Lochinver, Highlands The emphasis here is heavily on the local, free range and wild with even the tableware in the log-fire dining room handcrafted by a neighbour. The menu offers seared wood pigeon breast and saddle of wild roe deer, candy beetroot and truffled squash with all game seasonal and wild, aside from the barnreared fowl. Tel: 01571 844 407 www.thealbannach.co.uk foodies | 31
FOODIE FOCUS MICHELIN STARS
number one, Edinburgh The luxuriously stylish surroundings of number one at the Balmoral Hotel create the perfect setting for Jeff Bland’s creative and far-from-bland menu. Diners can try lemon sole and langoustines, with slow cooked cherries, goat’s cheese sorbet and honey and fennel mousse for dessert. Tel: 0131 557 67 27 www.restaurantnumberone.com Kitchin, Edinburgh Tom Kitchin’s sleekly converted warehouse overlooks the quay at Leith, and the restaurant’s ‘From Nature to Plate’ philosophy gives rise to menus based on seasonality and local provenance. The menu showcases game season with dishes such as mallard served with foie gras as well as Arisaig razor clams with chorizo confit. Tel: 0131 555 17 55 www.thekitchin.com Martin Wishart, Edinburgh Martin Wishart’s eponymous restaurant gave Edinburgh its first Michelin star 11 years ago, and continues to offer modern French cuisine using the finest Scottish ingredients. Kilbrannan langoustines with parsnip and white chocolate purée and breast of grouse au foie gras with a bitter cocoa sauce, walnut and feta are just a couple of the dishes on the menu. Tel: 0131 555 35 57 www.martin-wishart.co.uk
Boath House, Nairn, Highlands With 4 AA rosettes to accompany his Michelin star, head chef Charlie Lockley continues to inspire at this Highland retreat with his menu of locally-sourced and kitchen garden produce. Dishes including the delicious-sounding roe deer, chard, potato and shallots and rhubarb, parkin parfait and ginger jelly vary according to the seasons. Tel: 01667 454 896 www.boath-house.com
Inverlochy Castle, Fort William, Highlands Nestled in the foothills of Ben Nevis, this luxury hotel provides diners with a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds. The restaurant boasts views of the mountains and loch, while its menu is centred around top Scottish produce. Head Chef Philip Carnegie offers delights such as carpaccio of black pudding with white truffle eggs and gin-poached loin of venison with caramelised figs. Tel: 01397 702 177 www.inverlochycastlehotel.com
Knockinaam Lodge, Dumfries and Galloway A country house hotel hidden away in a private cove provides the idyllic setting for this relaxed dining experience. Executive Chef Tony Pierce prides himself on using local ingredients in seasonal dishes such as Highland roe deer and haggis beignet with a juniper and port reduction while tempting diners with hot pistachio soufflé drizzled with warm chocolate sauce. Tel: 01776 810 471 www.knockinaamlodge.com ●
From top: Inverlochy Castle, The Kitchin, Knockinaam Lodge, The Boath House
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RECIPE OF THE MONTH PAUL KITCHING
CHRISTMAS TRIFLE For the chocolate custards 4 egg yolks 600ml cream 130g caster sugar 150g best-quality milk chocolate 150g best-quality white chocolate For the sponge 2 eggs 100g self-raising flour 100g caster sugar 100g butter, softened Drambuie For the sweet lemon pastry Zest of 1 lemon 100g butter 180g plain flour 1 tbsp sugar Pinch of salt 550g mincemeat For chocolate custards, whisk egg yolks with caster sugar. Heat 400ml cream in a pan until hot but not boiling. Add cream to egg yolk and sugar mix and whisk rapidly until combined. Put mixture back into pan on a low heat and whisk until mix thickens. ● Chop up milk and white chocolate and put in separate bowls. Pour 1⁄3 custard into each bowl and whisk. Leave to cool. ● Once cooled, whisk remaining cream but leave slightly runny. Mix 1⁄2 cream into each of the cooled chocolate custards. Pour into piping bags refrigerate. ● To make sponge, whisk butter with eggs and sugar until creamed. Sift flour into bowl and whisk until combined. ● Grease an 18 cm sponge tin and add batter. Bake in oven at 180ºC for 15 mins or until cooked through. ● For pastry, sift flour into a bowl, add lemon zest, sugar, salt and chopped butter. Rub until mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Do not overwork. Press into a ball – if needed add a little cold water. Wrap in cling film and refrigerate for 20 mins. ●
Roll out and place on a non-stick, greased baking tray and prick with a fork. Bake in oven at 180ºC until golden – approximately 20 mins. Remove from oven and cool. ● To assemble trifle, cut sponge with a small cutter and then slice each round into thirds. Crumble up sweet lemon pastry into a rough crumb. Take 4 dessert glasses and layer up trifles as follows: 1⁄2 teaspoon mincemeat, then small spoon of pastry crumb, then half white chocolate custard and half milk chocolate custard. Pop a round of the sponge dipped into Drambuie on top. Then pipe a thin line of mincemeat round the glass. Spinkle more pastry over top then add milk and white chocolate custard again but on opposite sides. Add another round of sponge dipped in Drambruie and pipe another line of purée around the glass. Sprinkle more pastry on top and then another layer of custards on opposite sides again. ● Chill in fridge until ready to eat. ●
PAUL KITCHING 3 Royal Terrace, Edinburgh EH7 5AB Tel: 0845 22 21212 www.21212 restaurant.co.uk Paul Kitching is chef-patron of the Michelin-starred 21212 in Edinburgh. Paul’s modern French dishes are intricate, feminine and vibrant in colour and they are delicately assembled with a build-up of flavours that is memorably exciting.
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MEET THE CHEF MARY BREEN
Dainty desires Avoid dull vol-au-vents and serve up some exciting nibbles at your festive party, says Mary Breen of Canapé Edinburgh. After all, the best things come in small packages
anapés. Some say a fiddle and never quite enough, others a delectable delight of miniature perfection. The joy of canapés is that you can entertain any number of long overdue guests in one economical swoop. It’s very simple to set the scene with some fun cocktails and well-chosen wines, then concentrate the buzz for two or three hours and see where the party goes after that. Waiters tease with shots of pumpkin soup with crab and chilli, or plates of ‘snow’-capped beetroot cured gravadlax. After three hours, either the party can be subtly drawn to a close with sweet goodbye, or the night can be extended by offering a simple bowl of food from the kitchen and bacon rolls at dawn! For unexpected callers, it’s always good to have a few standby ingredients in the fridge or freezer for easy dishes you can prepare quickly. Boiled quails eggs are delicious and look great served in a small glass bowl with a dip of celery salt. Blinis are a great base for many canapés. Try wild smoked salmon with crème frâiche, finely grated lemon zest and fresh dill. Alternatively try fresh white crab mixed with a little mayonnaise, chilli, fresh coriander and lime juice. Crostini, or mini slices of toasted bread,
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From Canapé Edinburgh, bespoke canapé caterers. Call Mary on 07872 539009 or visit www.canapeedinburgh.co.uk
are easy to make in a pinch. Cut slices from a small baguette and brush with olive oil, salt and pepper. Bake at 180°C until light brown. Rub with a cut clove of garlic and store in an airtight container. Top with griddled vegetables and pesto or tapenade. Goats cheese with cranberry relish tastes Christmassy, while simple slices of tomato and mozzarella with basil and drizzle of oil always go down well. Hummus is surprisingly easy to make by whizzing up a can of chickpeas with olive oil, garlic, tahini and lemon. Or even easier, buy a tub then dress it up by adding some Greek yoghurt, fresh
Hummus is surprisingly easy to make by chickpeas whizzing up a can of
Try Mary’s recipes opposite & overleaf
coriander and lots of black pepper. A mini circular box of camembert baked in the box (remove the inner wrapping first!) is amazingly easy but always raises smiles of delight. Serve with slices of baguette and cranberry relish. Oysters surrounded by crushed ice, served with a side dish of finely chopped shallots, sugar, red wine vinegar, some Tabasco and lots of lemon wedges make a romantic start to Christmas morning. ●
RECIPES MARY BREEN
PARMESAN STARS These are delicious served with a slow roast tomato, basil and a fine grating of parmesan cheese. 80g grated parmesan cheese 50g butter 50g plain white flour Cayenne pepper Salt and pepper
● Mix all the ingredients until the mixture comes together in a ball. Cover with clingfilm and chill for an hour ● Roll out the dough and cut star shapes. Bake for approx 8 mins at 180°C until golden. ● Cool on a rack and then store in an airtight container.
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RECIPES MARY BREEN
MINI CHRISTMAS PUDDING Makes 10 110g Christmas pudding 50g white marzipan Red and green edible colouring 100g icing sugar Lemon juice or water Brandy butter Filo pastry
MINI YORKSHIRE PUDDINGS WITH ROAST BEEF AND HORSERADISH CREAM Makes 30 4 fillet steaks; Salt and black pepper; Olive oil; Flat leaf parsley
● Make filo bases by brushing sheets of filo with melted butter and cutting them into squares suitable to fit a mini Yorkshire pudding tin. Overlap three filo squares in each cup, and bake at 180°C until golden brown. This stage can be done a few days before and filo cups stored in an airtight container. ● Divide the Christmas pudding into 10 equal pieces and roll each into a ball. Place a teaspoon of brandy butter into the base of each filo cup and top with the ball of pudding. ● Make the icing by adding lemon Juice or water to icing sugar to form a dropping consistency. Drizzle on top of the puddings ● Wait for the icing to set, then add the food colouring to the narzipan in two batches, to make red and green marzipan. Roll each out and cut the green into leaf shapes and roll the red into small berry shapes. Place on top of the iced puddings.
For the Yorkshire puddings 75g plain flour; 1 egg; 75ml milk; 50ml water; Salt and freshly ground pepper; Olive oil For the horseradish cream 50g freshly grated horseradish; 200g crème frâiche; 1 tsp grainy mustard; Good pinch paprika ● Add a dash of olive oil to in each cup of a Yorkshire pudding tin. Heat in the oven until almost smoking. Whisk all batter ingredients together and half-fill each cup. Bake at 200°C for 10 mins. ● Mix horseradish, crème frâiche, mustard and paprika. ● Marinate steaks in oil and black pepper for 15 mins. Just before cooking sprinkle with salt. Sear for two minutes each side. ● Place a generous spoon of horseradish in each Yorkshire pudding. Layer on top a leaf of parsley and a slice of rare beef.
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IN SEASON CHRISTMAS
DEEP-FRIED CAMEMBERT WITH A CRANBERRY, BURGUNDY AND THYME SAUCE This dish is so naughty in every way. For me, life is too short to make cranberry sauce from scratch every time, so I like to buy a jar of ready-made and give it a little help. Lorraine Pascale is a former supermodel turned leading patisserie chef, and the presenter of the BBC’s Baking Made Easy and Home Cooking Made Easy From Home Cooking Made Easy by Lorraine Pascale, Harper Collins, £20
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Serves 4 4 tbsp red wine, preferably burgundy Pinch of fresh thyme leaves 150g cranberry sauce 1 egg, lightly beaten 80g natural or golden breadcrumbs Sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 250g whole Camembert, all packaging removed Enough vegetable oil to deep-fry the cheese
● Put the red wine in a small pan and boil it until it is reduced by half. This usually happens quite quickly. Add the thyme leaves and cranberry sauce, bring it to just below the boil, then take the pan off the heat and set aside. ● Put the egg in one bowl and the breadcrumbs in another, then season the breadcrumbs with salt and pepper. ● Cut the Camembert into four pieces, then dip each piece into the egg and then into the breadcrumbs. Dip once again into the egg and then into the breadcrumbs. Have a slotted spoon and tongs at the ready along with a wire rack with some kitchen paper underneath it. ● Fill a medium, deep pan with oil to the depth of 6 cm and heat over a medium heat until a small piece of bread carefully placed in the oil browns in 60 seconds. ● Carefully place the breaded cheese into the hot oil, one by one, using a slotted spoon. Put them into the pan from a low height so that the hot fat does not splash over you, then deep-fry until they are a lovely golden brown colour. ● Remove the cheese with a slotted spoon or tongs – whichever is easier for you – and place them on the wire rack. Putting them on the rack rather than straight on to kitchen paper means that they will not be sitting in their own fat and will stay nice and crispy. ● Once you have cooked all of the cheese wedges, place them on serving plates with a dipping bowl of the cranberry sauce, and serve straight away with a green salad.
IN SEASON CHRISTMAS
ROAST TURKEY WITH STUFFING
Margaret Fulton is a household name in her native Australia, where she has sold millions of cookbooks in a career spanning 50 years From Christmas by Margaret Fulton, Hardie Grant Books, £16.99
Serves 8-10 3-4kg whole turkey, at room temperature 15g butter, softened Freshly ground black pepper
For the pork, apple and sage stuffing 500ml apple juice 4 thick slices white bread, cubed 500g pork sausagemeat 2 apples, peeled, cored and diced 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 tbsp chopped parsley 2 tsp chopped sage 1 egg, lightly beaten Salt and freshly ground black pepper
● First make the stuffing. Soak the bread in the apple juice in a large bowl and set aside to soak for 15 mins. Add the pork mince, apples, onion and the herbs and mix well. Add the beaten egg, season well and mix together thoroughly. ● Pat the turkey dry with a paper towel. Spoon the pork, sage and apple stuffing into the turkey breast. Bring the neck flap over to the back and secure with a poultry pin. Press the bird into a good shape with your hands. ● Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Spread the butter over the turkey and season with pepper. Place on a rack in a large roasting tin, covering with a tent of greased foil. ● Allow 35-40 mins per kg to cook. Baste every 25 mins with the pan juices and remove the foil for the last 30 mins to brown. Remove to a heated platter, cover loosely with foil and leave in a warm place for 20-30 mins to rest.
TOP TIP It is vitally important to weigh the stuffing separately and include in the total weight to calculate the cooking time of the bird.
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IN SEASON CHRISTMAS
CHRISTMAS MESS Cranberries are synonymous with Christmas dinner, but these tart red berries are worthy of more than being just an adjunct to the turkey.
Mark Hix is an awardwinning food writer and restaurateur. He has four acclaimed restaurants in London and writes a weekly column in the Independent on Sunday magazine. From British Seasonal Food by Mark Hix, Quadrille, £14.99
Serves 8 40-50 chestnuts 500ml double cream 80g caster sugar 150-200g meringue
For the cranberry sauce 200g fresh cranberries 90g sugar 1 small cinnamon stick Juice of 1 orange Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Make an incision in the top of each chestnut with a small, sharp knife and place on a baking tray. Bake in the oven for about 20 mins, then remove and leave to cool. ● Meanwhile, make the sauce. Put the cranberries, sugar and cinnamon into a heavy-based saucepan with the orange juice. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved, then simmer gently for ●
about 20-25 mins until the cranberries have softened. Discard the cinnamon. Taste the sauce for sweetness and add a little more sugar if necessary. Leave to cool. ● Peel the chestnuts, removing as much of the brown skin as you possibly can. Place the nuts on a foil-lined baking tray and dust with the icing sugar. Bake in the oven for about 20 mins, turning the chestnuts every so often. Remove and set aside to cool. ● Whip the cream and caster sugar together in a bowl until very thick, using an electric whisk if you wish. ● To assemble, break the meringue into pieces and fold into the cream with about 2 ⁄3 of the cranberry sauce and 2⁄3 of the chestnuts. Pile on to the centre of individual serving plates. Scatter the remaining chestnuts on top and spoon the rest of the cranberry sauce over. foodies | 43
IN SEASON CHRISTMAS
PANETTONE CLASSICO This recipe brings back such happy memories of Christmas in Italy.
Gino D’Acampo is the master of modern Italian cooking. He regularly appears on television and is resident on ITV’s This Morning. From Italian Home Baking by Gino D’Acampo, Kyle Cathie, £18.99
Serves 6 15g yeast 125ml full-fat milk, warmed 400g strong white flour, plus extra for dusting 3 pinches salt 16g fresh yeast 125ml full-fat milk, warm 2 medium eggs 80g caster sugar 2 egg yolks 150g salted butter, at room temperature, plus extra 120g mixed candied peel, chopped 60g raisins
Brush a 15 cm cake tin with a little butter, then line with a double layer of greaseproof paper, ensuring you leave a ‘collar’ of paper 8 cm above the top of the tin. Oil the inside of a large bowl. Melt the yeast in the milk, making sure it is completely dissolved. ● Setting aside 2 tbsp flour, sift the remaining amount into a large bowl, sprinkle over the salt and make a well in the centre. Pour in the yeast and milk with the whole eggs and gently mix all the ingredients together to make a thick batter. Sprinkle over the reserved flour and leave the sponge in a warm place for 35 mins. ● Add in the sugar and egg yolks and mix them together to create a soft dough. Work in the butter then turn out on to a lightly-floured surface. Knead for 5 mins until smooth and elastic and shape into a ball. ● Place the dough ball in the oiled bowl and cover with clingfilm. Leave it to rise in a warm place away from draughts for 2 hours. ● Turn out the dough on to a lightly floured surface and punch down. Gently knead in the candied peel and raisins. Shape again into a ball and place in the prepared tin. Cover with clingilm and leave to rise in a warm place away from draughts for 1 hour. ● Preheat the oven to 190ºC. Use a sharp knife to cut a cross in the top of the ball and brush with a little butter. Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 mins. Lower the temperature to 180ºC, brush the top with more butter and continue to cook for a further 30 mins. Once out of the oven, cool the cake in the tin for 10 mins then turn out on to a wire rack to cool. Panettone is perfect served at room temperature with a cup of tea. ●
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GLUTEN-FREE RECIPE JULIA THOMAS
GLUTEN-FREE CHRISTMAS CAKE My mother used to bake this cake every Christmas and I can vividly remember the kitchen being filled with the heady smell of baking fruit and spices. Serves 8-10 300g dairy-free spread 300ml cranberry juice 300g runny honey 175g dried sour cherries 175g glace cherries 350g raisins 325g sultanas 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 150g wheat- and gluten-free plain flour 1 tsp xanthan gum 150g ground almonds 1 ⁄2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 100g candied mixed peel, finely diced 2 tbsp brandy 675g almond paste or marzipan 675g Dr Oetker ready-to-roll icing
Bake in the preheated oven for 2 1⁄2 hours or until a metal skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Leave in the tin to cool for 1 hour. ● Run a knife around the cake, remove from the tin and leave to finish cooling on a rack. When completely cool, pierce the surface of the cake with a metal skewer and feed with the brandy. ● Wrap the cake in a double layer of baking parchment and again in foil and store in a cool place, feeding with brandy every other day, for two weeks before icing. ● A week before Christmas, cover the cake with almond paste. A day later, finish with icing. ●
Julia Thomas is a lifelong baker and cake lover, who established the gluten- and dairyfree bakery Cake Angels in Hereford. From Cake Angels by Julia Thomas, Collins, £16.99
● Preheat the oven to 160ºC. Grease a 20cm cake tin and line the base and sides with baking parchment. ● Melt the spread, juice and honey in a large, heavy-based saucepan. Stir in the cherries, raisins and sultanas, bring to the boil and reduce to a simmer over a low heat for 5 mins, when the fruit should be plump and luscious. ● Transfer to a large mixing bowl and stir in the bicarbonate of soda. The mixture will fizz furiously for a while. Leave to cool for 10 mins. ● Fold in the flour, xanthan gum, ground almonds, nutmeg and candied peel with a large metal spoon into the fruit mixture. Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and level with the back of a spoon. ● Tear off a piece of baking parchment large enough to cover the top of the tin and halfway down the sides. Cut a small circle out of the middle of the paper. Lay the paper over the top of the tin and tie in place with string. Wrap a sheet of brown paper around the tin again, tying in place with string. Place on a baking tray.
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FOODIE FOCUS OZ CLARKE
cheers! Oz Clarke recommends the top twenty wines to spread seasonal cheer this month and into the New Year
2010 Torrontés, Finca La Linda, Bodega Luigi Bosca, Mendoza, Argentian, www.bancroftwines.com, £9.25 Wafts of rosehip, lavender and peach blossom perfume, brioche softness and a welcome marmalade peel bitterness.
2009 Macabeo Blanco, Las Corazas, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain, www.martinez.co.uk, £4.50 This is almost waxy, very round and soft, with just a hint of honey to sweeten the mild peach and fluffy apple fruit. NV Sauvignon Blanc, Ngakuta Bay, Marlborough, New Zealand, Morrisons, £5.99 Passionfruit and grapefruit slug it out with much greener flavours of apple peel and currant leaf. 2010 Rioja Blanca, Valdepomares, Spain, Marks & Spencer, £5.99 This has a brilliant flavour of Cox’s orange pippin apples mashed together with a dollop of pear, and the chewiness and acidity of apple peel. 2010 Pecorino, Sistina, Terre di Chieti, Citra, Abruzzo, Italy, Majestic, £8.99 This is a lovely, fat, soft style, with warm, gentle apple and pear syrup, sharpened up with a little green leaf acidity and peppered with lily stems.
From 250 Best Wines 2012 by Oz Clarke, Pavilion, £7.99
2010 Gavi di Gavi, Fratelli Levis, Piedmont, Italy, Whighams of Ayr, £10.99 This gavi keeps the scything lemon zest tang it always had, but adds a hint of apple blossom. 2009 Petit Chablis, Domaine d’Elise, Burgundy, France, www.stonevine.co.uk, £11.25 Lemony, streaked with minerals, not at all
2010 Vinho Verde, Quinta de Avezedo, Sogrape, Portugal, Waitrose, £7.29 A delightfully dry, rock-dusty, water-white wine, with a flavour of unripe orchard fruit – peaches, quinces and pears – squirted with grapefruit and apple juice.
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FOODIE FOCUS OZ CLARKE
raw; it has just a hint of honeyed softness, but even in a boiling year like 2009 it is suffused with pale northern sunlight. 2009 Greco di Tufo, Vesevo, Campania, Italy, Harvey Nichols, £13.99 Loads of juicy fruit led by pears and bananas. Creamy in texture, scented with almond flowers and pear blossom.
RED NV Corbieres, Les Vignerons de la Méditerranée, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, Sainsbury’s, £3.69 Very fresh, banana mixing with soft red plum, and the Corbieres mountain character shows in a brush of herbs. 2009 Shiraz-Viognier, Douglas Green, Western Cape, South Africa, www.thewinesociety.com, £5.50 Ripe blackberry and black plum fruit, a dab of exotic peach flesh, a trail of smoke and a suggestion of orange scent. 2010 Carmenere-Shiraz, Los Nucos, Rapel Valley, Chile, Marks & Spencer, £5.99 These guys have gone all out for rich, dark blackberry fruit and a delightfully offbeat soy sauce and peppercorn savouriness. 2009 Gamay, Gontvel, Côtes du Tarn, France, www.virginwines.co.uk, £7.99 Juicy, full of bright red plum fruit mashed up with strawberries, then slightly coarsened by the rough kiss of streamside pebbles. 2009 Ciconia, Touriga Nacional-SyrahAragonez, Alentejano, Portugal, www.shjones.com, £7.99 Ciconia has a definite, stony, dusty dryness, but that doesn’t get in the way of a scent like rosehips and syrupy fruit. 2009 Puglia Rosso, Anarkos, Racemi, Puglia, Italy, www.therealwineco.co.uk, £8.49 Bulging with youth, this is soft yet 50 | foodies
2009 Clos Lojen, Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce, Manchuela, Spain, Harvey Nichols, £11.75 This has quite chewy, grainy tannin, but has a heavenly scent like pine-needle soap, and fruit that sways between the scented pale red of rosehips and the ruddy-cheeked sweet ripeness of sloes.
Oz’s recommended Scottish suppliers Friarwood Tel: 0131 554 4159 www.friarwood.com Harvey Nichols Tel: 0131 524 8322 www.harvey nichols.com Linlithgow Wines Tel: 01506 848821 www.linlithgow wines.co.uk Peter Green & Co Tel: 0131 229 5925 www.petergreen wines.com Raeburn Fine Wines Tel: 0131 343 1159 www.raeburnfine wines.com Valvona & Crolla Tel: 0131 556 6066 www.valvona crolla.co.uk Villeneuve Wines Tel: 01721 722500, 01620 822224, 0131 558 8441 villeneuvewines.com Whighams of Ayr Tel: 01292 267000 www.corneyand barrow.com WoodWinters Tel: 01786 834894, 0131 667 2760 www.wood winters.com
tempered by a nice, edgy bitterness and it throws together the richness of ripe, red plums and the different kind of ripeness that comes from tomatoes. 2008 Primitivo, Polvanera 14, Gioia del Colle, Puglia, Italy, www.adnams.co.uk, £10.99 Thick with the richness of dates and raisins, the sticky taste of plum jam baked on the edge of a jam tart, and the glowering intensity of black treacle.
ROSÉ NV Grenache Rosé, Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l’Ardeche, Rhône Valley, France, Sainsbury’s, £4.29 This bright but chubby pink comes from the hidden valleys of the Ardeche. Plump apple and banana, scented with strawberries, soothed with syrup. 2010 Tourraine Rosé, Les Cabotines, Domaine Joël Delauney, Loire Valley, www.stevensgarnier.co.uk, £7.99 Delaunay makes tremendous, fairlypriced reds and whites, and throws in this gentle, pastry-soft, mildly strawberryish delicacy to keep the party going. ●
2010 Côtes de Provence Rosé, Mirabeau, Provence, France, Waitrose, £8.99 Brit Angela Muir has produced a lovely, juicy, peardrop and peach-fresh wine, youthful yet creamily soft.
COOKING WITH KIDS
Santa’s little helpers Happy penguins, glittering baubles and tasty Christmas puddings are some of the fun biscuit ideas that children will love to help you make over the festive season
CHRISTMAS PUDDINGS These colourful biscuits were inspired by a vintage Christmas card that my mum found. 12 gingerbread cookies cut into bauble shapes with a hole for the ribbon to fit through (see penguin recipe)
To decorate Icing sugar, to dust 125g each red, blue, green and white rolled fondant icing Edible glue Edible bows ● Dust the countertop with icing sugar and roll out the red, blue and green fondant. Roll small balls of white fondant and squash them on to the 3 different coloured rolled fondants with your thumb. Gently roll over the rolled fondant with a rolling pin to incorporate the polka dots into the coloured icing. ● Cut out the rolled fondant to the same size as the biscuits. Attach elements using edible glue. Cut out a circle of white rolled fondant. With a knife, cut a wiggly line through the circle. ● Take half the circle and attach it to the pudding. Add a bow to the top edge. ● Make buttons and holly leaves from leftover icing and add to the top edge of the biscuits.
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RECIPES COOKING WITH KIDS
JOLLY PENGUINS These fun penguins are great to make with children during the Christmas holidays.
From Super-cute Cookies by Chloe Coker, CICO Books, £14.99 Available from all good bookshops or call 01256-302699 quoting GLR6OL to purchase a copy at the special price of £12.99 including free p&p. www.cicobooks.co.uk
Makes 12 For the gingerbread biscuits 125g unsalted butter 100g dark soft brown sugar 2 tbsp water 2 tbsp golden syrup 1 tbsp treacle 250g plain flour 1 ⁄2 tsp baking soda 100g self-raising flour 1 tbsp ground ginger 2 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp mixed spice Finely grated zest of 1 orange or lemon (optional)
To decorate icing sugar, for dusting 100g orange rolled fondant icing Edible glue 250g black rolled fondant 100g white rolled fondant 100g red rolled fondant
● Put butter, sugar, water, syrup and treacle for biscuits in a heavy-based saucepan and melt over a low heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and leave to cool for a few mins. ● Meanwhile, sift flours, baking soda and all spices together into a large bowl and add citrus rind. Make a well in the centre and pour in melted mixture. Gently stir in flour so that there are no lumps, until mixture forms a soft dough. Put dough in a sealable food bag and leave in fridge for at least one hour. ● Roll out dough and cut out 12 penguin shapes. Place on a lined baking tray and chill for 30 mins. ● Preheat oven to 200ºC and bake for 812 mins. Remove from oven and transfer to a cooling rack using a palette knife. ● Dust work surface with confectioners’ sugar and roll out orange rolled fondant. ● Attach orange fondant to biscuits using edible glue, and mark indents on feet with a toothpick. ● Roll out black fondant and cut out body. Attach to biscuits and gently roll over to make it fit. ● Roll out white fondant and cut out an oval shape for penguin’s tummy. Attach. ● Roll out red fondant and cut out shape of the hat. Attach to biscuit. ● To make eyes, roll 2 small balls of white fondant between your fingers. Squash to make oval shapes and then squash flat. Attach to biscuits and attach 2 tiny balls of black fondant for the pupils. ● To make beaks, roll a ball of orange fondant between your fingers. Pinch one end to make it into a triangle shape, then squash it flat. Attach to biscuit. ● To finish hats, roll a ball of white fondant between your fingers and attach to the top of the hat as a bobble. Then roll a thin sausage of white fondant for trim. Attach to biscuit and mark lines along trim of hat with a toothpick to give it some texture.
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RECIPES COOKING WITH KIDS
BAUBLES These bauble biscuits make lovely Christmas tree decorations. Go for turquoise, red and white for a vintage look or choose richer colours for a traditional look. 12 gingerbread cookies cut into bauble shapes with a hole for the ribbon to fit through (see penguin recipe)
To decorate 3 extra large egg whites 675g icing sugar 3 tsp lemon juice Edible glitter ● Put the egg white and lemon juice into a large clean bowl. Slowly add the sugar using an electric whisk. Beat the mixture for 5-10 mins until it turns glossy and holds its shape like a stiff meringue. Divide into three and leave one batch white, colouring the other two with turquoise and red food colouring respectively. ● Spoon enough white icing into a piping bag to outline four biscuits. Run a thin line of icing around the edge of each. Thin the remaining white icing by adding water a spoonful at a time until it runs easily from a spoon, then use a clean piping bag to fill in the centre of the biscuit. Repeat for the turquoise and red baubles. Allow to dry completely ● With a fine-tipped nozzle, pipe simple patterns on to the biscuits in different colours. While the icing is still wet, sprinkle glitter over them.
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FOODIE SPAS DALHOUSIE CASTLE
Dalhousie Castle A half-hour’s drive from Edinburgh, Dalhousie offers a warm welcome, four poster beds and a compact spa. The new Gold body scrub, using shimmering cane sugar, gave a warming exfoliation and was followed by a Gold face and body massage, rich in caviar extract to slow down the ageing process. Relaxed, we enjoyed a drink from the ‘secret bar’, then it was down to the dungeon for fine dining from chef Francoise Giraud. An amuse bouche of foie gras was followed by deliciously light smoked duck terrine and venison with truffle jus. After a chocolate samosa treat the meal was finished off with a trio of apple soufflé, crumble and ice cream. www.dalhousiecastle.co.uk
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FOODIE FOCUS TABLE DECORATION
Setting the table Throwing the perfect Christmas dinner party is all about the details, and presenting your guests with a sumptuous table will make the food taste all the better says William Yeoward
ecorating a table for friends can be a great chance to make the most of the innate drama of a welldesigned setting. I love the idea of a great 18th century French table, loaded with monogrammed linens, beautiful handpainted porcelains and shiny family silver, looking rich but delicate. As so much of Christmas is focused on the younger members of the family, I like to hold a Christmas Eve dinner just for the grown-ups. When the children have gone to bed and the house is quiet, I begin my favourite Christmas ritual: setting the table with the most beautiful and beloved items from my china cupboard. For a gilded table, I use 19th century embossed gilt cutlery, a laurel-leaf candelabra and shimmering, goldrimmed wine glasses. I chose gold handmade Christmas crackers covered with crinkled paper reminiscent of fabulous evening gowns. Finally, I have gold sugared almonds cascading from cranberry glass chests with ormalu mounts; these add more than a touch of decadence and opulence to a glittering mise en place. I created a rather more understated French-style cranberry, gold and white table for friends of mine who live nearby. 58 | foodies
From Perfect Tables by William Yeoward, CICO Books, £16.99. Pictures Ray Main
They were having eight to dinner and wanted a glamorous, sophisticated look. The key starting points were already in place in their dining room: the huge wooden table, the dusky pink upholstered chairs, the gold chandelier and the gilt mirror. Gold screams glamour while the wooden table was roughly rustic – a wonderful combination in this setting, but one that presented a possible clash of styles for the look I wanted. I solved the problem by covering the table with a crisp linen cloth – a linen sheet would do just as well. I then kept it simple with classic
Gold sugared almonds cascade from ts ts with ormalu moun cranberry glass ches Available from all good bookshops, or call 01256-302699 quoting GLR6NV to purchase a copy at the special price of £14.99 including free p&p. Visit www.cicobooks.co.uk
silverware, 18th century-inspired handpainted plates, white linen napkins and cranberry and amethyst glass. The flowers were cut hydrangeas, with a pretty detail on each napkin provided by a rose petal. If a simpler table setting suits your home better, white will always look elegant. Ideal for a casual supper with
FOODIE FOCUS TABLE DECORATION
friends or close family, a white setting is pretty, stylish and perfect for entertaining any age group. The table is very easy to arrange, making it deal for a young couple or newlyweds. All thatâ€™s needed are a few basic but carefully-chosen elements to put the look together, nothing fancy or expensive required. White china, elegant crystal and vintage linen napkins are placed around antique pewter chargers, whose worn surfaces complement the well-used tabletop with its rich patina and act as a foil to the pristine white linen and china. The folded napkins form a background for the silverware, and delicate flower buds could be used to highlight the fine embroidery on the fabric surface. By keeping the setting uncomplicated and monotone, the food that is brought to the table becomes the focus of attention â€“ its colour, texture and aroma will be the key features. For this reason, on occasions such as this, I am especially careful when selecting ingredients at the market. I search out the most handsome pears, the crispest lettuce 60 | foodies
An inventively-laid table will charm your guests before the food even arrives
and the most mouthwatering, ripe strawberries. To entertain a larger number of guests at home, or to give myself more room for a generous centrepiece, I extend my table using a false tabletop. This is simply a piece of board that I place over my smaller table for an instant table extension. Ideally, you should try to place everything that you and your guests will need on the table before , so there must be sufficient room to accommodate these items without the overall effect being cluttered. If necessary, take a course-bycourse approach and only bring to the table what you need for that course, clearing it away before the next. In our increasingly busy lives it is important to find time for ourselves, our partners and our friends. With a few extra moments of planning and arranging Christmas dinner can be an even more memorable occasion. One of the greatest compliments is the look of delight and sometimes gasp of surprise from guests as they walk in and see, for the first time, the table set before them.â—?
CHRISTMAS RECIPE PIERRE HERMÉ
MILÉNA MACARON Makes about 72 macarons For the macaron shells 300g ground almonds 300g icing sugar 220g egg whites, separated and left in the fridge for several days to liquefy 10g approx. mint green food colouring 1 ⁄2 g egg yellow food colouring 300g caster sugar 75g mineral water
For the filling 300g crème fraîche 300g Valrhona Ivoire couverture or white chocolate 15g Get 27 peppermint liqueur 12g fresh mint leaves 120g ground almonds 40 fresh raspberries To finish Chopped almonds Few drops red food colouring
twice during cooking time. Remove from oven and immediately slide baking parchment and shells on to work surface to stop cooking process. ● For mint ganache, remove mint leaves from the stalks, then rinse and dry. Chop finely. Bring cream to the boil then take it off heat. Add mint and infuse for 10 mins without a lid. Strain cream and retain chopped mint. Blend finely in the bowl of a food processor. ● Chop up chocolate then melt in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Pour hot cream infusion over chocolate a third at a time. Add mint, Get 27 peppermint liqueur and ground almonds. Stir, then spoon ganache into a piping bag with a plain nozzle. Pipe a mound of ganache on to half the shells. Gently press half a raspberry into the centre. Pipe another dot of ganache on top then cover. ● These macarons should be consumed within 48 hours of baking.
Pierre Hermé is universally acknowledged as the king of French pastry, with shops in Tokyo, Paris and London. There is no question that his macarons are in a league of their own. From Macarons by Pierre Hermé, Grub Street, £25
The day before, mix food colouring with the almonds. Spread in a single layer on a baking tray, and allow to dry. ● Sift together icing sugar and ground almonds. Stir food colouring into 110g liquefied egg whites. Add to ground almond mixture but do not stir. Bring water and sugar to boil at 118°C. When syrup reaches 115°C, start whisking remaining egg whites to soft peaks. When sugar reaches 118°C, pour it over egg whites. Whisk and allow meringue to cool down to 50°C, then fold into almond mixture. Spoon batter into a piping bag fitted with a plain nozzle. ● Pipe rounds of batter about 3.5cm in diameter, spacing 2 cm apart, on baking trays lined with parchment. Gently tap baking trays on work surface to flatten the discs out. Sprinkle shells with coloured chopped almonds and set aside for 30 mins until they form a skin. ● Preheat fan oven to 180°C then put trays in the oven. Bake for 12 minutes, quickly opening and shutting oven door ●
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You’ll be spoiled for choice when picking out gifts for fellow foodies
2 1. Chocolate hamper, £100, www.cocoablack.com 2. MasterChef,£35, johnlewis.com 3. Gourmet Christmas pudding, £10, www.cafesthonore.com 4.Nepalese Fikkal Ilam tea, £6.95 www.chateaurouge.co.uk 5.Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne,£14.25, tesco.com 6. Maison du Chocolat Remy Martin set, £275, harrods.com 7. TUMTUM Tiny Winter Set, £25, www.tumtumtots.com 8. Tea & egg cosies, £14.95, cobwebknits.co.uk
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RESTAURANT REVIEW KYLOE RESTAURANT & GRILL
KYLOE RESTAURANT & GRILL WORDS: CAROLINE WHITHAM
t seems obvious when you think about it. Scotland has some of the finest beef in the world, and yet its capital city lacked a really high-end steak restaurant. Well, no more, as chef David Haetzman has scoured the country, tasting the best organic meat (what a trial!) and has converted the Restaurant at the Rutland into Kyloe. Kyloe is an auld Scots word for a cow, and the décor reflects this, with a cheeky selection of hide-covered booths and rustic wooden fittings giving a distinctively posh twist on Wild West style. Glancing over the menu, we were stuck by the variety, not just on the grill menu but also on the à la carte. Provinence is clearly an important consideration here, with Ayrshire pork, Fraserburgh lemon sole and St Brides chicken on the main course menu. We chose to start with a traditional plate of mushrooms on toast and a more experimental dish of ceviche of sea bream. The creamy mushrooms were earthy and delicious, soaking into the sourdough bread. My companion’s ceviche was marinated in citrus juice, with a strong hint of the pink grapefruit that accompanied the sea bream. It was
Three-course dinner for two £82 exc wine
Kyloe Restaurant & Grill 1-3 Rutland St, Edinburgh EH1 2AE Tel: 0131 229 3402 www.kyloe restaurant.com
a wonderfully light concoction, featuring shredded radish, cucumber and coriander, the very thing to wake up the taste buds for a rich meal to come. For the main course we plumped for a chateaubriand to share, a rare indulgence that I was delighted to see make an appearance here. At £46 it isn’t a budget option, but there are good value cuts on the grill menu that should suit most purses. We salivated over the generous slices of melt-in-the-mouth medium rare beef, eagerly dividing them between us and fighting over the bone marrow sauce and the sherry and manchego butter we’d chosen to top it. For pudding, a warm chocolate pithivier proved to be a big hit, with plenty of smooth Valhrona chocolate in a puff pastry parcel. My vanilla crème brulée was creamy but avoided the heaviness that too often creeps into that particular dish, served with plum compote and shortbread biscuits. The views might take your breath away, but this varied and yet thoughtful menu and top-notch cooking certainly won’t do the same for your appetite. A strong contender for entry into the list of Edinburgh’s very best. ● foodies | 67
“I love celebrating life with a special toast, with friends and family.” GOJI TEA 50ml Fair Quinoa vodka 40ml Fair Goji liqueur 15ml vanilla syrup 5ml fresh lemon juice 100ml rooibos, orange & cinnamon tea 50ml cranberry juice 1 fresh stick lemongrass 2 slices dried orange 2 slices dried pear Glass: Japanese teacup Place all ingredients in a Japanese teapot and steam in a coffee machine. Serve warm with two teacups.
A grand day out British icons Wallace and Gromit are doing their bit to improve life for sick kids – simply by having a nice cuppa. The animated pair will be leading a program of events this month called The Great British Tea Party and encouraging people to organise their own parties around the country. The events will raise money for children in hospitals and hospices. www.wallace andgromitteaparty.org.uk
Milla Jovovich on drinking Campari at Christmas
HOT TO TROT Fans of Bottlegreen’s sophisticated but summery soft drinks will be warmed by the news that they can enjoy their favourite all year round, thanks to the new Hot Spiced Berry Cordial. Based around blackcurrants and aronia berries, the spices added to the cordial make it perfect to add to Christmas cocktails for an extra kick. bottle green.com
It takes Bols Put a bit of Heston in your cocktails this festive season with Bols Foam, a new development on the molecular mixology scene that lets you make fancy foamy drinks that your guests will gasp over. The foam comes in six flavours: Amaretto, Banana, Peppermint, Bols Blue, Crème de Cassis and Cacao White, with more planned if the new product proves to be a success. www.bolscocktails.com
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High fizz Put the sparkle into the holiday season with these bubbly cocktails
METROPOLIS The metropolis was a logical creation since the champagne and berryflavoured liqueur combination was such a success in the kir royale. Adding vodka gives a kick to that same seductive mix of champagne and fruit flavours. 25ml vodka 25ml crème de framboise Champagne, to top Glass: champagne coupe Garnish: none Add the vodka and crème de framboise to a shaker filled with ice. Shake and strain into a martini glass. Top with champagne and serve.
From Easy Cocktails, Ryland, Peters & Small, £8.99 foodies | 71
SLOE GIN FIZZ You may need to play with the balance of flavours in this cocktail. Different brands of slow gin have different concentrations of sweetness and flavour, as is the case with many liqueurs. 25ml sloe gin 25ml gin 4 tsp fresh lemon juice 2 tsp sugar syrup Soda water, to top Lemon slice Glass: highball Garnish: lemon slice Add all the ingredients except the soda to a shaker filled with ice. Shake sharply and strain into a highball glass filled with ice. Top with soda, garnish with a slice of lemon and serve.
APRICOT ROYALE The fruity melody of flavours combines with the champagne to make this drink the perfect cure for the blues. 40ml apricot brandy 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp simple syrup Dash peach bitters Dash orange bitters Champagne, to float Glass: rocks Garnish: apricot slice Add all the ingredients, except the champagne, to a shaker filled with ice. Shake sharply and strain into a rocks glass or tumbler filled with ice. Gently layer a float of champagne over the surface of the drink. Garnish with a slice of apricot and serve.
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TRIED AND TREW RESTAURANTS & BARS WORDS JONATHAN TREW
Raising the bar COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH: HOT GIN PUNCH
Celebra IP Oh Tann ting at enbaum! Goethe In , st Enjoy a fr itute? u it y Hefeweiz the Left en at Ban next. k
3 teacups Hendricks Gin, 3 teacups Madeira, Pinch grated nutmeg, 1 tsp cinnamon powder, 1 tsp brown sugar, 4 large spoons honey, 6 large lemon twists, 3 cloves, 1 small slice orange, 3 chunks pineapple, Lemon juice, Dash water Combine all the ingredients in a small pot and simmer gently for 30 mins. Pour into a teapot and serve hot in teacups with some gingerbread on the side.
EDINBURGH UNION OF GENIUS As Edinburgh turns colder than a polar bear’s bahookie, the thought of a piping hot bowl of soup suddenly seems very attractive. Enter Union of Genius, a new soup cafe that serves six different varieties of freshly-made soup every day. They support local producers as much as possible, which means that the artisan bread served with your soup or the cupcakes with your coffee will have come from local bakers such as Dough Re Mi in Bruntsfield. 8 Forrest Road, Edinburgh Tel: 0131 226 4436 www.unionofgenius.com GLASGOW CARLUCCIO’S Glasgow gets Scotland’s first branch of Carluccio’s just in time for Christmas, which will come as welcome news for those who love tucking into a good slice of
festive panettone or snapping up a luxury hamper this time of year. Eschewing the Merchant City’s Italian Centre, the new shop and restaurant will be located rather closer to the main shopping drag on West Nile Street near Central Station. Tuck into a full Italian meal in the restaurant or bag fresh Parma ham and Pecorino from the deli to take home. 7 West Nile St, Glasgow G1 2PR Tel: 0141 248 1166, www.carluccios.com GLASGOW KUTA It seems unlikely that Glasgow’s appetite for Spanish tapas is permanently on the wane but Tapela on Bath Street has been replaced by Kuta. The new basement bar specialises in Asian-style food: think mixed shellfish tempura, chicken satay and spiced honey-glazed pork belly. The recently launched Kraken black spiced rum features heavily on the cocktail list. 104 Bath Street, Glasgow Tel: 0141 332 6678 www.kutabathstreet.co.uk
FESTIVE AUSTRALIAN WINE Sweet Harvest 2005, Lillypilly Estate, £8.99 A delicate sweet wine with a hint of honey and kumquat. www.lillypilly.com Watervale Riesling 2010, Jim Barry Wines, £10 Juicy, floral and perfumed with a refreshing backbone of natural acidity www.jimbarry.com Chortle’s Edge Shiraz 2008, Blackjack, £11.50 Flavours of ripe plums and red berries with vanilla and cinnamon. www.blackjack wines.com.au foodies | 75
FOODIE TRAVEL BARBADOS
Tropical taste With its rich local culture and wealthy visitors, it’s no wonder the Caribbean island of Barbados has developed a cosmopolitan approach to food. Words Sue Hitchen
rom the beginning of time, people have been searching for the elixir of youth. Barbados may not have a potion for eternal life but it does have all the ingredients for a long and healthy one, as a significant number of Barbadians live to be well over 100. Eating yams and sweet potato, known as ‘ground provisions’, is given by locals as the reason for this longevity, but who can beat a diet of fresh fish caught daily flying fish, barracuda, mahi mahi and king fish are all caught in the seas around the island. Citrus fruit is delicious here, starting with gloriously juicy limes and enormous local lemons used to make the infamous Barbados rum punch. On our drive from the airport we saw refreshing coconuts sold by the roadside and banana trees in abundance. Friday and Saturday nights are barbecue nights at Oistins Fish Fry. An avenue of street food vendors grill fish while live reggae music plays from a central stage. Situated right next to the large fish market, there is no doubting that this is ‘sea to plate’ cuisine. Locals throng to the place and we joined them on long wooden benches in the open air, choosing from a range of menu options chalked on the blackboard. My freshly
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My freshly grilled lobster was delicious de macaroni cheese served with homema The clear seas of the Caribbean provide Barbados with plenty of fresh fish
grilled and succulent lobster was delicious served with the homemade local favourites rice and peas (chickpeas, surprisingly) and macaroni cheese. No prices are displayed on the menu, as the waiter judges what he thinks you can afford to pay and charges accordingly! Fine dining is a must on Barbados, with a great range of dining options
offering very sophisticated cuisine. Nestled on a cliff with magnificent views of the sea from any table, the setting at The Cliff is breathtakingly stunning. Dramatic plumes of flame rise from metal conches and light up the beach and the ocean. Chef Paul Owens and his team of twelve chefs produce amazing dishes, and we were recommended to try the seven-course tasting menu. This included such delights as spicy tuna tartare with a wasabi yogurt sauce, local Caribbean shrimp in a coconut sauce and pan-roasted salmon with grilled shrimp and saffron mash. Duck breast flown in from Gressingham followed by prime Argentinian beef tenderloin were both exquisitely cooked, and the pastry chef excelled himself with a selection of wonderful desserts. The following day we were invited to the Lonestar restaurant, formerly a garage built in the 1940’s. Not knowing
Above: eating right on the beach at Mullins
quite what to expect, we were greeted by waiters dressed as garage mechanics in homage to the original owner, mechanic Jeremy Reid, a great fan of Hollywood movies and nicknamed “Lone Star of the West” A favourite for lunch, you need to book well in advance in high season. The restaurant extends onto the beach and the enticing water is metres away. I enjoyed grilled fish of the day, which was flying fish with sautéed christophine, tomato, black olives and capers – the fish was light and a good choice but I had my eye on my companion’s tuna tartare with mango salsa, which was declared the best he had ever tasted. Entertainment was provided by a family of turtles, who were quite happily lunching on local fish in the sea nearby. With a couple of hours to spare we decided to head for the hills in search of an award-winning rum which had been highly recommended to us. Described by foodies | 77
FOODIE TRAVEL BARBADOS
expert David Broom as: “a rum with absolute classic Bajan balance and finesse,” we were determined to taste it. A twenty-minute drive from the coast sits St Nicholas Abbey, an original 17th Century sugar plantation, bought in 2006 by the Warren family who are on a mission to develop the Abbey as selfsupporting and to produce rum using traditional methods. At the heart of it is the original Jacobean house, beautifully decorated and furnished in a traditional style so that you step back in time to a Gone With the Wind era. The rum is distilled in a traditional way favoured 350 years ago, using a pot brought over from Germany, and part of the self-guided tour includes a rum tasting room where you can buy their 10-Year-Old in beautifully hand-etched bottles. We tasted the rum and were thrilled by its elegant smoothness, sweet spice, juicy tropical fruits and a hint of crème brûlée. As part of our stay at Royal Westmoreland, we had access to the beach facilities at Mullins Beach Bar and Restaurant, apparently favoured by pop star Rihanna. Nestled on a beautiful palm-fringed, crescent-shaped beach, the setting is perfect and we enjoyed the 78 | foodies
Daphne’s Restaurant Payne Bay, St James Tel: 001 246 432 2731, www.daphnes barbados.com The Cliff, Derricks St. James, Tel: 001 246 432 1922, www.thecliff barbados.com Lone Star Restaurant & Hotel St. James, Tel: 001 246 419 0599 www.thelonestar.com Mullins, Gibbs St. Peter, Tel: 001 246 422 2044 www.mullins barbados.com
sunset while dining on local deep-fried crab cakes with tomato salsa, followed by fillet of dolphin fish (a local name for mahi mahi, not the popular mammal!) on a summer vegetable ratatouille. The rum punches are potent, the best we had tasted on the island. What better way to finish a trip to one of the most beautiful foodie havens on the planet, than settling back, sipping punch and gazing out over the sun sinking into the Caribbean sea? ●
MORE INFORMATION Barbados celebrates its Scottish heritage with a Celtic festival, next held on June 4/14/2012. This year Edinburgh chef Paul Wedgwood created a Bajan haggis before the Caribbean Highland Games. ● St Nicholas Abbey rum can be ordered online in the UK from sipormix.com ● Royal Westmoreland villas and apartments are available for rent from £230 per night. firstname.lastname@example.org Tel: 01524 782503 www.royalwestmoreland.com ●
FOODIES FOCUS PRETHEATRE
Waiting in the wings In the second part of our series, we hunt out the most unusual and fun places to eat before seeing some of Edinburgh’s best pantos. Words Caroline Whitham
People’s Theatre’s version of Mother Goose might be the dish of the day on stage, but at Bia you can enjoy a daily changing menu of treats such as mullet, pork belly or red onion pithiver. The set menu is available from 5-6pm and is priced at £9.50 for two courses or £11 for three. Children’s versions of most of the adult dishes are available. Bia Bistrot, 19 Colinton Rd, Edinburgh EH10 5DP, Tel: 0131 452 8453, www.biabistrot.co.uk
ids can be surprisingly openminded when it comes to food, so there’s no reason to find yourself stuck in the nearest chain restaurant just because you’re on your way to see a pantomime. Try one of our top suggestions for a pre-theatre experience that won’t be forgotten as soon as the curtain goes up.
Cinderella King’s Theatre, 3 Dec - 22 Jan Tel: 0131 529 6000, www.eft.co.uk You won’t lose your shoe like Cinderella, running across the road from the King’s to Hot Hot Chinese, where older kids will love getting involved with cooking their own dinner. Each table is equipped with a hot pot of broth on a burner, and grown-ups can supervise while kids drop their choice of noodles, meat, fish and veg into the soup and scoop them out again once they’re cooked. Hot Hot Chinese, 60 Home St, Edinburgh EH3 9NA, Tel: 0131 656 0707 Mother Goose Church Hill Theatre, 23-31 Dec Tel: 0131 529 4147, www.ept.org.uk Not many of us have a goose that lays golden eggs, so cash-strapped mums and dads will be pleased to tuck into the set menu at Bia Bistrot before heading over to the Church Hill Theatre. The Edinburgh 80 | foodies
From top: Cinderella, Hot Hot Chinese, Kanpai, Bia Bistrot
Beauty and the Beast Lyceum Theatre, 25 Nov - 31 Dec Tel: 0131 248 4848, www.lyceum.org.uk For a sophisticated kids’ show, such as the version of Beauty and the Beast that the Lyceum are staging this festive season, dinner should be equally grown-up. That doesn’t mean that kids won’t enjoy the food at Kanpai Sushi, opposite the theatre, just that they might need a touch of Beauty’s adventurous spirit to try brightlycoloured and unusual dishes such as dragon rolls, sake fried chicken, takoyaki octopus balls or grilled half aubergine in sweet miso sauce. Children have been known to turn into hungry little beasts at the sight of the pan-fried chicken and veg dumplings. 8-10 Grindlay Street, Edinburgh EH3 9AS, Tel: 0131 228 1602, www.kanpaisushi.co.uk
FOODIES OUT AND ABOUT
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TASTE OF SCIENCE John Torode explained the science of food at Glasgow Science Centre
HENDRICKS GIN DINNER The Scottish distiller joined forces with Bompas & Parr to take over Pollock House
TEDINBURGH Malones held a Father Ted themed event to raise money to fight cancer 82 | foodies