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ISSUE 44 MAY 2013 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE

A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK

N I W RT O H S A

IN BREAK IR E S PERTH

FISH TALES Rachel Allen’s Irish magic

GWYNETH Healthy treats from Ms Paltrow

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WELCOME

Foodies

Published by the Media Company Publications Ltd 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh EH3 6TL Tel: 0131 226 7766 Fax: 0131 225 4567 www.foodies-magazine.co.uk

Front cover image Rachel’s Irish Family Food by Rachel Allen EDITORIAL Editor Sue Hitchen Design Angela McKean Sub Editing Caroline Whitham Digital Imaging Malcolm Irving Production Lucy Wormell Publishing Assistant Amy McGoldrick Lisa Chanos Danielle Bassette Ellen Grant Advertising Design Charis Stewart

Home is where the heart is

A

S WARM weather approaches, this month we’ve been looking at natural produce and outside activities to really get in the mood for summer. Fresh, authentic ingredients are the focus, paving A SHORT the way for healthy yet delicious ideas to get you in the BREAK IN mood for sunny days! PERTHSHIRE Gwyneth Paltrow reveals her organic recipes that keep both herself and her family active and healthy. Try out her gorgeous Sweet Potato Muffins on page 23 that will leave you craving for breakfast! Rachel Allen has been proudly exploring her Irish roots, showcasing recipes that have been handed down from generation to generation. Learn the secrets of her glorious Fish Stew on page 29. Slightly further afield, we look to the Amalfi Coast, with Katie and Gianfranco Caldesi bringing pastoral Italian delights to your kitchen. Their rustic Puttanesca in particular is a delight - find the recipe on page 37. We’ve also been taking to the great outdoors this month, drinking in nature with foraged ingredients for our cocktails and searching the beautiful Borders for the best places to eat, drink and stay for a true, Scottish adventure. Bring the sunshine to your home, open the windows and let the summer begin! Sue Hitchen, Editor

WIN

CONTRIBUTORS

ADVERTISING Sales Manager Bill Mackay Business Development Matthew Magee Courtney Stiven SUBSCRIPTIONS Receive a copy of Foodies every month. Only £15 (regular price £24) for 12 issues delivered to your door call 0131 226 7766 or email the editor: sue.hitchen@gmail.com

Foodies Festival with top chefs

Rachel Allen Irish TV chef, cook and author, going back to her roots with her new book “Irish Family Food”

Gwyneth Paltrow The American movie star and health food champion with her second book

John Whaite Winner of the BBC’s Great British Bake Off 2012 series shows off his talents

Katie & Giancarlo Caldesi Chefs and coowners of the Caldesi Cookery School

Brighton Hove Lawns May 4, 5 & 6 ● Tatton Park Cheshire May 17, 18 & 19 Hampton Court Palace May 25, 26 & 27 ● London Clapham Common June 7, 8 & 9 Bristol Harbourside July 12, 13 & 14 ● Edinburgh Inverleith Park August 9, 10 & 11 London Battersea Park August 16, 17 & 18 ● Oxford South Park August 24, 25 & 26 foodies 3

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CONTENTS

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23

60

SHOPPING

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NEWS

9

BOOKS, TV AND WHAT’S ON

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COMPETITION Win dinner, bed and breakfast at the Atholl Arms, Perthshire

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FASHION

15

GWYNETH PALTROW 16 Showcasing her all-natural recipes for herself and her family RACHEL ALLEN Shares her Irish heritage home cooking

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KATIE & GIANCARLO CALDESI 32 Recipes from the Amalfi Coast, passed down through the generations JOHN WHAITE 40 Great British Bake Off 2012 winner

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39

SCOTLAND’S SECRET SPOTS 47 Cycling adventures in the Borders COOK SCHOOLS 50 The best cooking classes this month INTERIORS 52 Top tips for a more stylish kitchen SPA At MediSpa, Harvey Nichols

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57

COCKTAILS 59 With natural, foraged ingredients RESTAURANT REVIEW 62 At The Scran & Scallie, Edinburgh NEW BARS 64 Glasgow and Edinburgh’s hot spots OUT AND ABOUT Recent exclusive events

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SHOPPING

Karoto Peel and Sharpen £11.10 www.madeindesign.co.uk

Pieni Unikko Cushion £43.80 www.madeindesign.co.uk

Lemon squeezy Snap Clock £190 www.rume.co.uk

Easy peasy ideas to brighten up your home with a touch of summer sunshine

Ctirus Keeper £4.99 www.drinkstuff.com Tolix A56 Armchair £173 www.madein design.co.uk

Francis Francis! X1 Coffee Maker, Yellow £495 www.johnlewis.com

Iltavilli Tray £42 www. illustratedliving.co.uk

A di Alessi Squeezer £25 www.madein design.co.uk

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FOODIES NEWS

LUSH SPRING IN A TIN Lush have brought out a new, limited edition Spring Tin, designed by the Polish artist Roman Klonek. Retro cartoons and whimsical creatures decorate the exterior, while inside the contents are intended to uplift, invigorate and energise you. Enjoy Avobath and Secret Garden ballistics, a carrot re-usable bubble bar, a sugar scrub and much, much more. Visit Lush stores nationwide this month to buy, call 01202 668 545 or visit www.lush.co.uk. RRP £29.95.

ICE DELIGHT

Centenary Celebrations

Summer approaches, and with it the longawaited sunshine. In celebration, IceDelight have created a fat-free alternative to ice cream that is also one of your five-a-day. Made by Belhaven Fruit Farm, the home-grown, handpicked fruit desserts are available in many flavours and can be found in Waitrose. See www.icedelight.co.uk for extra information.

Beaches and BBQs Premium crisps brand Tyrells are going all-out now that the weather’s on the turn, with their new nostalgic flavour Beach Barbecue. Find yourself taken back to the seaside with the flavours of smoked paprika, tomato, cayenne and garlic. The packet even looks like a beach hut! Available from 69p.

For 50 days, Henderson’s of Edinburgh will be celebrating their anniversary with events, an ethical wine fair, an Hawaii Five-O themed pop up restaurant and many more activities! Henderson’s truly believe in living and eating well, so visit www.hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk for details on all the events.

THE WALLED GARDEN

The Walled Garden has established itself as a firm favourite with those looking to escape the city for the day. With a café-barrestaurant, a Farm Deli of fresh produce, a microbrewery and an outdoor play area for children, there’s something for all the family. Pop along for a home-cooked meal, a walk in the grounds or even head to The Gallery Shop for work from Scottish artists. foodies 9

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BOOKS, TV AND WHAT’S ON

COOKING THE BOOKS Grill it with Levi: 101 Recipes for Sunshine and Soul Levi Roots, Ebury Press, £18.99 Levi’s recipes are infused with Caribbean sunshine and succulent flavour. Let’s hope he brings the weather with him! A Passion for Baking Jo Wheatley, Constable, £18.99 2011’s Great British Bake Off winner delivers passionate, spot-on recipes to inspire and delight. Pizza Pilgrims Cookery: Recipes from the Backstreets of Italy Thom and James Elliot, HarperCollins, £20 These brothers are motivated by the burgeoning London street food scene, and bring us delicious recipes they discovered whilst travelling 4,000km around Italy in their van.

Red alert Chef Nichola Smith, founder of Healthy Yummies, will be documenting her rollercoaster ride in the catering industry in her new show Red, Hot and Yummy. See her catering for her hero Jamie Oliver, top fashion designer Sophie Hulme at Paris Fashion Week and one of her favourite brands, Madness, at their gig in the West Country. With lost ingredients, late staff and breaking equipment, each episode shows how Nichola copes. Red, Hot and Yummy, weeknights on the Food Network starting on 28th May.

WHAT’S ON FESTIVAL OF NETTLES Scottish Crannog Centre, Loch Tay 27th May This Bank Holiday, the Scottish Crannog Centre will be enlightening visitors on the uses of nettles, dating from the Iron Age. With a range of crafts and demonstrations, breads, soups, omelettes, jellies and even beer, this is an event that will definitely have you viewing nature in a very different way. 11am - 4:30pm, free.

EDINBURGH ZOO NIGHT Edinburgh Zoo, EH12 6TS 24th May A brand-new event for this spring. For adults only, you can have a drink whilst gazing at your favourite animals, or enjoy the vintage cocktail tea party, silent disco, street performers, food stalls, champagne and Pimm’s bars. 6-10pm, tickets cost £20 and £17 for members (members can bring one guest at the discounted rate).

LOCH FYNE FOOD FAIR Cairndow, PA26 8BJ 18th-19th May The fair marks Loch Fyne Oyster Bar’s 25th anniversary celebrations with an extravaganza. Enjoy seafood stands, meat stalls, great Scottish producers, preserves, chocolates and much more. There will also be talks from some of the finest Celtic chefs around, not to mention a range of children’s entertainment. Free entry, 11am-6pm.

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IN W

Win a Perthsire getaway at the Atholl Arms Hotel

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NJOY dinner, bed and breakfast for two people at the historic Atholl Arms Hotel. In the heart of Perthshire, the Atholl Arms Hotel showcases great food, and has the perfect base for enjoying the region’s array of outdoor activities – or simply admiring the stunning scenery. The 17-bedroom hotel overlooking the River Tay at Dunkeld was built in 1833, and Queen Victoria dined there on one of her many visits to Balmoral Castle when she was still just a princess. Indeed, one of the rooms is named in her honour. The Atholl Arms’ RiverView restaurant specialises in Slow Food, with an emphasis on retaining the ingredients’ flavours and goodness.

Numerous times a year the restaurant holds a special dinner dedicated to the art of slow cooking. There are warm and inviting log fires, which tempt you to relax in the lounge, and the recently refurbished bar includes a selection of cask ales. The Atholl Arms has a beer garden alongside a patio which is situated right on the river bank. Views go on to Birnam Wood, the movement of which is famous as an omen of Macbeth’s downfall in Shakespeare’s eponymous play. All around Dunkeld, which is fifteen minutes’ drive from Perth, outdoor activities include walking, canoeing, cycling, fishing, birdwatching, golf and even shooting. ●

TO ENTER For your chance to win this great prize, simply answer the following question:

On which river is the Atholl Arms situated? Send your answer and contact details, including your email address, on a postcard to Foodies, 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh, EH3 6TL or email enter@ foodies-magazine.com

Terms & Conditions: Winner will be drawn at random from all correct entries on 1st June 2013. 1 entry per household. The prize is subject to availability, and may not be combined with any other offer or promotion. Black-out-dates and restrictions may apply. No cash alternative is available.

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SHOPPING

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Coral reef

1 Contrast-stitch tank top, £59.95 www.harrods.com 2 All items available from www. stellamccartney.com 3 Marc by Marc Jacobs, Dinky Henry watch, £135 www.harrods.com 4 Dance Urlead Mid leather trainers, £79 www.laredoute.co.uk 5 D-frame acetate sunglasses, £185 www.net-a-porter.com 6 Plattan coral headphones £49.90 www.urbanears.com 7 Adidas by Stella McCartney cut-out parka, £279 www.harrods.com 8 Revitalise sweater, £80 www.sweatybetty.com 9 VPL Insertion bra, £62 www.lagarconne.com 10 Colour bag, red, £24.99 www.spartoo.co.uk 8

Swim with the salmon in this season’s must-have colour

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10 6

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MEET THE CHEFS GWYNETH PALTROW

Looking good, feeling great Hollywood star Gwyneth Paltrow found out the hard way that watching your calories isn’t always enough to stay healthy

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NE SUNNY afternoon, in the spring of 2011, I thought – without sounding overly dramatic – that I was going to die. I had just served lunch in the garden at home. I felt unwell while I was preparing it, but I couldn’t pinpoint why. I had a vague feeling that I was going to faint, and I wasn’t forming thoughts correctly. I didn’t say much while we all ate. My family had friends joining us, and it was a beautiful, warm Sunday, but I couldn’t really take it in. I was worried. I stood up to clear the table and found that my right hand wasn’t working as it should, and then everything went blurry. I got a searing pain in my head, I couldn’t speak and I couldn’t breathe. I thought I was having a stroke. I had had a very exciting and busy year, and I knew I was worn down from all the plane rides, the adrenaline and the stress. But I didn’t realise how this intense period of continuously pressing the override button on my already exhausted

“Whatever you need or want to cut out, mealtimes should always feel happy, not like a punishment”

system, coupled with lots of French fries and wine, had taken a toll on me. I needed to do something. I had always been into health kicks and cleanses and the idea of “being healthy”, but I usually interspersed this clean living with hearty chunks of happy indulgence, and clearly I had gotten out of balance. I decided I needed to do something to build myself back up, and off I went to see my doctor and good friend Dr Alejandro Junger. When he called me a few days later with the results he sounded surprised. Not only was I severely anaemic, I was vitamin D deficient, my liver was congested and my stress levels were sky high. It was time for a change. No matter whether you’re doing Dr. Junger’s Clean Program, which focuses on the elimination diet, or a food allergy program that steers you away from gluten and dairy, or if you just want to focus a bit more on nutritious food, there are recipes here for you. And most importantly, whatever you need or want to cut out, for whatever reason, mealtimes should always feel happy, not like a punishment. If I’ve learned anything, it’s that it’s all a process. ‘Falling off’ your plan is part of it, not a reason to beat yourself up. It takes time to make these changes. It’s all good. ●

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GWYNETH PALTROW RECIPES

LAMB TAGINE WITH SQUASH AND CHICKPEAS Serves 4-6 8 tbsp fresh coriander, plus 2 tbsp to serve 6 cloves garlic, peeled 5cm knob of fresh ginger, peeled 1 small red onion, peeled and chopped ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp black pepper 3 tbsp olive oil 900g boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 5 cm cubes pinch saffron 475ml chicken stock 400g tinned chickpeas, drained and rinsed 700g squash, deseeded and cut into 5cm cubes 1 preserved lemon, finely chopped

● Combine the 8 tbsp coriander leaves with the garlic, ginger, onion, cumin, pepper and olive oil in a powerful blender along with a large pinch of salt. Blend everything together until completely puréed. Place the lamb in a large bowl and pour the marinade over it. Using your hands, make sure every bit of meat is completely covered with the marinade. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set it in the fridge for at least 6 hours. ● Take the lamb out of the fridge and let it sit at room temperature for ½ hour. ● Preheat the oven to 165°C and place the lamb, along with all of the marinade, into a large, heavy pot set over mediumhigh heat. Cook, stirring now and then, until completely browned all over, a solid 15 minutes (do this in batches if the lamb doesn’t fit into your pot in a single layer). Once the lamb is browned, sprinkle it with saffron, stir to combine, and add the chicken stock. Bring the mixture to a boil

and scrape up any bits that might have stuck to the bottom. Turn the heat off. ● Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit inside the pot, crunch it up into a ball, and wet it. Smooth out the damp parchment and lay it over the lamb like a blanket (this will help keep in the moisture). Put the lid on the pot and place in the oven for 1½ hours. Stir the chickpeas and squash into the pot, put the parchment and lid back on, and return to the oven for ½ hour. The lamb should be meltingly tender and the squash should be cooked through but not falling apart. Season the tagine to taste with salt and serve immediately, scattered with preserved lemon and chopped coriander. foodies 19

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RECIPES GWYNETH PALTROW

RISOTTO WITH PEAS AND GREENS Serves 4 950ml vegetable stock 1 lemon 2 tbsp olive oil ½ white onion, finely diced 1 leek, white and light green parts only, thoroughly washed and finely diced 2 garlic cloves, finely minced

leaves from 6 sprigs of thyme sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 250g Arborio rice 500g baby spinach or any other baby greens (like tatsoi) 1 cup fresh peas (or you can substitute frozen petit pois) 4 tbsp roughly chopped fresh basil

● Warm the vegetable stock in a small pot and set it on the back burner over a low heat. ● Using a Microplane grater or a zester, zest the lemon and set the zest aside. Cut the lemon in half, juice it, and set the juice aside. ● Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large, heavy pot set over a high heat. Add the onion and leek, turn the heat down to medium, and cook until the vegetables just begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and thyme along with a big pinch of salt and cook until all the aromatics are, well, aromatic, another 2 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the rice and the reserved lemon juice, and stir to combine all the ingredients. Cook until the lemon juice is just evaporated and then stir in a ladleful of the warm stock. Continue to stir the risotto until the stock is absorbed, then stir in another ladleful of stock. Continue in this manner until the rice is cooked through and you’ve used all your stock, about 20 minutes. At this point your arm should feel as it’s going to fall off and the rice should be luxuriously creamy and rich. Stir in the reserved lemon zest, the greens and the peas (these will cook with the risotto’s residual heat), the basil, and a few healthy grinds of pepper. Serve immediately.

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GWYNETH PALTROW RECIPES

SWEET POTATO AND FIVE SPICE MUFFINS Gluten-free baking is not for the faint of heart. At first, as we tested this recipe, we produced heavy or bizarrely textured muffins, but we finally hit the nail on the head with the perfect mix of ingredients. These muffins are super-tasty and are always a smashing success in my house. Makes 12 1 large sweet potato 120ml extra virgin olive oil 120ml unsweetened almond milk 180ml good-quality maple syrup or xylitol, plus 2 extra tbsp for brushing the muffins 1 tsp pure vanilla extract

475ml gluten-free flour (if the flour doesn’t include xantham gum, add 1 tsp) 2 tsp baking powder 2 tsp baking soda 1½ tsp Chinese fivespice powder ½ tsp fine sea salt

It’s All Good by Gwyneth Paltrow and Julia Tushen, published by Sphere, £20

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● Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Prick the sweet potato a few times with a sharp knife or a fork. Bake until soft (when a sharp knife can cut through with zero resistance), about 1 hour. Set the sweet potato aside until it’s completely cool. ● Peel the sweet potato, discard the skin, and mash the flesh in a mixing bowl with a fork. Whisk the olive oil, almond milk, maple syrup or xylitol and vanilla into the sweet potato. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, five-spice powder and salt. Fold the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients. ● Line a 12-cup muffin tin with paper liners and evenly distribute the muffin batter among the cups. ● Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean, brushing the tops with the extra maple syrup during the last five minutes of baking. Let the muffins cool before serving.

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MEET THE CHEFS RACHEL ALLEN

The

luck of the Irish Rachel Allen goes back to her roots with traditional family recipes from her mother’s kitchen

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RISH FOOD has a rich history and tradition. Of course, our love for the potato is well known and very real, but with recipes such as colcannon, Irish stew and our wonderful soda bread there are so many distinctively Irish dishes that make our food ideal for homecooked meals – wherever in the world you might live. I grew up in Dublin and my mum was a very

good cook. She would often have casseroles gently bubbling in the oven, filling the kitchen with their alluring aromas to make my sister and me even more impatiently hungry. My own relationship with cooking started with baking. My sister, mother and I would often bake together, making biscuits or cakes. I loved the whole process, from the messy mixing to the mysterious rise behind the oven door. It was at the age of eighteen that my interest in cooking became a passion and eventually an obsession. On my first day at cooking school I learned many of the principles that we still teach students today: that the best food comes from the best ingredients and that means carefully grown crops and lovingly raised animals. This is echoed by our impressive and still rapidly expanding modern Irish food culture. Ours is not a history of elaborate multi-layered dishes. Irish food is about local produce. The greenest grass in the world feeds the happiest cows, which in turn produce the most beautiful butter and cheeses. With ingredients like this, I think it’s important not to dress the food up too much, to let their flavours take centre stage. I hope that through our food you can connect both to the history of Ireland and to the wonderful country that it still is today. ●

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RACHEL ALLEN RECIPES

SALAD WITH BEETROOT, TOASTED HAZELNUTS AND CASHEL BLUE DRESSING Small, sweet summer beetroot make for a perfect, simple salad. Their earthy sweetness works well when balanced when the creamy, salty taste of Cashel Blue cheese. This salad has a much-needed crunch from toasted hazelnuts. If you desire, serve it with cucumber pickle. Serves 4 4 small beetroot 40g hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped 4 handfuls of salad leaves finely grated zest of ½ lemon about 20 slices cucumber pickle

For the dressing 125ml extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ tsp honey 75g roughly crumbled Cashel Blue cheese Salt and freshly ground black pepper

● Wash the beetroot carefully under a cold tap. Do not scrub them – simply rub off any dirt with your fingers. Don’t damage the skin or cut off the tops and tails, otherwise the beetroot will ‘bleed’ while cooking. Put the beetroot in a pan, cover with cold water and simmer for 30-45 minutes. They are cooked when a knife can be easily inserted into the centres. Peel by rubbing off and discarding the skins, then cut each into 8 wedges. ● To make the dressing, mix together the olive oil, lemon juice and honey in a bowl or jar, then add the blue cheese and taste, adding salt and pepper as needed. ● Combine the beetroot and hazelnuts in a bowl, drizzle with three-quarters of the dressing. On serving plates, scatter the beetroot and hazelnuts over the leaves, and drizzle over the remaining dressing. Sprinkle over the grated lemon zest. If you desire, you can add four or five slices of cucumber pickle per person.

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RACHEL ALLEN RECIPES

FISH STEW Serves 4-6 450g mussels 4 large tomatoes 4 tbsp olive oil 200g leeks, cut into 7mm slices 1 red pepper, deseeded and diced salt and freshly ground black pepper 300ml chicken stock good pinch caster or granulated sugar 12 raw, peeled king prawns 300g skinless white fish, eg cod or haddock, in 2cm chunks 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley, to serve

● First prepare the mussels. Rinse the shells in cold running water a couple of times to wash away any sand or grit. Give them a scrub to dislodge any barnacles or bits of weed, then remove the ‘beard’ with a tug or a sharp knife. Discard any that are open and won’t close when tapped against a hard surface. ● Peel the tomatoes by scoring a cross at the top of each tomato with a sharp knife, then placing in a bowl and covering with boiling water. Leave in the water for 15-20 seconds, then drain, rinse in cold water and peel the skin from each tomato. Chop the peeled tomatoes into small pieces and set aside. ● Pour the olive oil into a large saucepan on medium heat, add the

leeks and red pepper and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 4 minutes or until a little softened, then add the chopped tomatoes, stock and sugar. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover with a lid, and cook for 7-8 minutes more or until the tomatoes are soft. ● Tip the mussels, prawns and fish into the pot, bring back up to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover with the lid and simmer gently for 2-3 minutes or until the fish and seafood are cooked. (The fish and prawns should be opaque and the mussels opened – discard any that remain closed.) ● Season to taste, sprinkle over the parsley and serve with chunks of crusty bread for your guests to mop up all the delicious juices.

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RACHEL ALLEN RECIPES

CHICKEN OPEN-POT ROAST It’s at the end of May that the first of the new season’s potatoes begin to appear. We adore spuds, and each year brings such excitement because there is just nothing quite like a freshly dug new potato, be it from a local farm or, even better, from your own garden. This dish is my light and summery take on chicken casserole. Cooked in an open pot, the chicken skin is allowed to get golden and crisp, but there is still plenty of delicious sauce, which the new potatoes readily soak up. Serve with a green salad. Serves 4 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 chicken, cut into pieces, or 4 chicken thighs/breasts (with the skin left on) salt and freshly ground black pepper 450g new potatoes (unpeeled), larger ones halved 2 small leeks or 1 large leek, trimmed and cut into 3cm lengths 250ml chicken stock 1 sprig of tarragon, plus 1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon 4 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tbsp Dijon mustard

Rachel’s Irish Family Food by Rachel Allen, HarperCollins, £20

● Preheat the oven to 220°C. Pour the olive oil into a large, wide flameproof casserole dish over high heat. Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and place, skin side down, in the hot oil. Cook for 4-5 minutes, until a deep golden brown. Turn over, so that the skin side is now on top. Add the potatoes and leeks, season with salt and pepper, and gently stir for another 2 minutes, being careful

to keep the chicken skin side up. Pour in the stock and add the sprig of tarragon. Bring to the boil. ● Transfer to the oven, uncovered, and bake for about 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender and the chicken is cooked through. Remove from the oven, stir in the chopped tarragon along with the lemon juice and mustard and serve immediately. foodies 31

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MEET THE CHEFS KATIE & GIANCARLO CALDESI

Coast with the most T

HE SHEER excitement of taking in the views is marred only by the erratic local driving, which is hair-raising to say the least; it is a unique experience that makes the Amalfi Coast even more memorable. The terroir of the coast has shaped the diet of its inhabitants over the centuries. With only a few kilometres between sea and mountain, it is unsurprising that as you walk into any local restaurant you will be asked if you would like to eat from the mountains (meat) or the sea (fish). It is also unsurprising that you will find combinations from both the land and the sea, such as bean and mussel soup, spaghetti with clams and calamari stuffed with locally grown vegetables. There are many recipes for quick sauces that cook in the time it takes to cook the pasta. They are described as sciué sciué, pronounced ‘shway, shway’ which although sounds Chinese is actually a Neapolitan way of saying ‘quick, quick’! Most sauces are made with the abundant local produce so there are many clever inventions using anchovies and lemons. Some are so simple that they are more a combination of ingredients than an actual recipe. Each time we spoke to an Amalfitano they would come up with yet another delicious pasta sauce, probably devised by their mother. ●

Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi explore Italy’s beautiful Amalfi Coast

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KATIE & GIANCARLO CALDESI RECIPES

ARROSITI CON PATATE This bright, colourful soup really caught my attention and now it is one of my favourite Italian soups – it just so happens to be the colours of the Italian flag. It’s always best to use homemade stock. Serves 4 3 red peppers 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium white onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 celery stalks, cut into 2cm chunks 1 large garlic clove, lightly crushed

½ - 1 red chilli, finely chopped 1 large potato, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes salt and freshly ground black pepper 700ml homemade hot vegetable or chicken stock, or hot water large handful of spinach leaves, roughly chopped good quality extravirgin olive oil, to serve Greek yoghurt (optional), to serve

● Heat the oven to its maximum setting. Lay the peppers on a greased baking tray and bake for 20-30 minutes, or until blackened all over. Remove from the oven, out into a bowl and cover with clingfilm, or put into a plastic food bag to sweat. This will help loosen the skins. ● Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large saucepan. Fry the onion, celery and garlic over a medium heat until soft; this should take about 10-15 minutes, stirring frequently. ● Peel the skins off the peppers and discard the seeds and cores. Save any water from the peppers as it can be added to the soup. Roughly chop the peppers and add to the pan. Stir through and add the stock or water. Cook until the potatoes are soft and just starting to break down, so that they thicken the soup a little. Stir through the spinach leaves until wilted. Serve in warmed bowls with a swirl of your best olive oil. If the soup is spicy hot, cool it down with a spoonful of Greek yoghurt (not very Italian but delicious nonetheless!)

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Make a date to visit Glasgow’s top-rated restaurant serving contemporary Italian cuisine in the beautiful Merchant CityGlasgow’s growing “cultural quarter”. A family-run restaurant where the head chef, Angelo, hails from Palermo on the Island of Sicily and the head waitress, Francesca, from Sorrento, have worked with the family for over 16 years combined. Qua Italian restaurant prides itself on its southern Italian roots and offers a unique dining experience due to the Sicilian and Pugliese kitchen staff, its Sorrentine head waitress and the Molisan family who own and work in the restaurant. Numerous glowing newspaper reviews attest to impressive standards maintained at the

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restaurant with Tam Cowan of Daily Record fame, Dinertec (Evening Times) and the Glaswegian all awarding the food top-ratings and reserving special praise for the “great fresh produce”, the “mouthwatering” cuisine and the “excellent value and service”. Ever popular with the locals, the restaurant also won the prestigious Herald newspaper’s “Readers’ Recommended Restaurant Award” for the Merchant City area in 2012. It serves-up great value set lunch and pre-theatre menus as well as a regularly updated seasonal a la carte menu. Daily specials including handmade fresh filled pastas and an extensive all-Italian regional wine list ensure your return visits will be as varied and enjoyable as your first.

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KATIE & GIANCARLO CALDESI RECIPES

PUTTANESCA It is said that the ladies of the night would make this quick sauce for extra energy using their store-cupboard ingredients. However, our friend Michelina showed us this version made with fresh cherry tomatoes rather than the tinned variety. I absolutely love the punchy, spicy flavours and cook it regularly for quick lunches. Serves 4 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 large garlic clove, lightly crushed ½ - 1 fresh red chilli, finely chopped 2 heaped tbsp black olives, pitted and halved 1 heaped tbsp capers,

drained and rinsed if salted 6 anchovy fillets large handful of parsley, finely chopped 350g cherry tomatoes, quartered salt, if necessary 350g spaghetti, to serve

● Make sure you have all the ingredients to hand and then cook the pasta in a large pan of well-salted boiling water. ● Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the garlic and chilli, followed by the olives, capers and anchovies. Stir frequently to break up the anchovies. ● Add the parsley and stir through. ● After two minutes, add the tomatoes. Taste and season if necessary. Cook for another couple of minutes. ● When the pasta is ready, use tongs to lift it from the saucepan directly into the frying pan, along with a tbsp of cooking water to lengthen the sauce. Serve immediately.

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Tickets on sale May 1st

PRESENTS

B A T T E R S E A PA R K AU G U S T 1 6 , 1 7 & 1 8 Feast in style with

POP UP RESTAURANTS LIVE MUSIC CHEFS CHAMPAGNE BEACH COCKTAILS ARTISAN FOOD VINEYARD FARM BBQ COOK OFFS CAKE AND BAKE Buy tickets at www.foodiesfestival.com or 0844 995 1111

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KATIE & GIANCARLO CALDESI RECIPES

TIRAMISU FRAGIOLE & LIMONE This is a great quick dessert to make, but served in individual glasses it looks very impressive. Serves 6 500g strawberries 300ml whipping cream 250g marscapone zest and juice of 2 lemons 100g caster sugar 2 tbsp maraschino liqueur, white wine or elderflower cordial 600g good-quality strawberry sauce 12 sponge fingers icing sugar, for dusting

● Set aside six medium strawberries. In a bowl, whip the cream and then whisk in the marscapone. ● Fold in the lemon zest and sugar, followed by the lemon juice. ● In a flat dish, mix the liqueur with 1 ½ tablespoons of the strawberry sauce, then dip the sponge fingers into the liqueur until they are just soft but not soggy. ● Cut the remaining strawberries into slices. Lay a few slices at the bottom of 6 martini glasses or tumblers so that the slices are facing outwards, then add a layer of cream, the remaining sauce and the soaked sponge fingers. ● Finish with a layer of cream. Decorate each glass with a fanned strawberry and lightly dust with sugar.

The Amalfi Coast by Katie & Giancarlo Caldesi, Hardie Grant, £25 foodies 39

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MEET THE CHEFS JOHN WHAITE

I’m in the

mood

Happy or sad? Hopeful or worried? Baking is sure to calm every emotion, says Great British Bake-Off winner John Whaite

W

HEN I was a little boy, my parents divorced. While this is no major sob story or catastrophic disaster, it really did shake up my little world, and I can see why so many people never truly recover from such an upheaval. Thankfully, I was lucky enough to have a mother for whom we – my sisters and I - were of paramount importance in the whole situation. Mum would always make time for us and that time would be spent, happily and calmly, in the kitchen. Plates might have been broken only hours before in that same kitchen, but for us everything would be swept away and it became our sanctuary. My sisters and I would spend what felt like hours with Mum, baking treats such as crispy cakes and gingerbread men. That time together was of fundamental importance. It gave us all something to concentrate on, and something to think about besides the sad events that were unfolding all around us. One particularly fond memory I have is of Mum in her apron, her hair scruffily, but perfectly, clipped back. I would stand on my baking chair watching, enthralled by the way she hulled the tops from fairy cakes – as though performing a dance – to fill the cakes with floppy, sweetened cream and sharp raspberry jam. Whenever I pick up a bag of flour or a dozen eggs, these memories come flooding back to me, and I remember that time when baking – and excuse the drama – really did protect us as children. Since then, baking has been an inherently comforting process for me, and I turn to it when I am feeling particularly blue or when I’m worried about something. That said, I also bake when I am ecstatically happy or bored or inspired because I really do believe that there are bakes for every single mood. Whatever your reason is for baking, be it mood managing, indulgence or fun, I sincerely hope that you enjoy these recipes. And I hope too that you will create many happy memories, safe in your kitchen, covered in flour and eggs. ●

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SIMPLE STRAWBERRY TARTS A classic strawberry tart – filled with pastry cream and topped with apricot-jam-glazed strawberries – is a thing of great beauty. I first made this tart a few nights before travelling down to Oxford University in order to try to calm myself. It is such a simple recipe, it really does give you time to think, to process information that’s whizzing around in your head. The tart itself tastes so good you won’t be worrying about anything else when you have a forkful. Serves 8 500g sweet shortcrust pastry 1 quantity Crème Patissière (see www.foodiesmagazine.co.uk for

recipe) 700-800g strawberries 1 tbsp caster sugar 6 tbsp apricot jam

● On a floured work surface and using a floured rolling pin, roll the pastry out to a thickness of about 4mm and use it to line the tin. Chill in the fridge for about 30 minutes, then blind-bake. Set aside to cool. ● Make the crème patissière according to the recipe and allow to cool completely. ● Hull the strawberries by removing the green tops with a knife, and then slice each strawberry in half. Place in a bowl with the caster sugar and mix about gently so that each strawberry is covered in sugar. Set aside for the strawberries to macerate and go shiny. ● Fill the cold pastry case with the crème patissière, and then top with the strawberries – you can make a neat pattern, or simply allow the strawberries to tumble over the surface. ● Make a glaze: heat the apricot jam in a small saucepan then sieve into a bowl. Use a pastry brush to paint the strawberry tops and any bare crème patissière with apricot glaze. Refrigerate until served.

John Whaites Bakes by John Whaites, Headline, £20

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JOHN WHAITE RECIPES

TROPICAL FRUIT PAVLOVA My mum has to be the best pavlova maker in the world. Since I was a tiny tot she has made the gooiest, fluffiest meringue ever, and she isn’t one to faff about, either – she adds nothing but egg white and sugar, and lets the oven do the work. 5 egg whites 285g sugar

For the topping 600ml double cream 5 kiwi fruits, peeled and sliced 200g raspberries 200g strawberries, hulled and halved 200g blueberries flesh from half a mango, in 1cm cubes 3 passionfruit, pulp only icing sugar to dust (optional) Essential equipment large baking sheet, lined with baking paper piping bag with a large star nozzle

● Preheat the oven to 180°C. Draw an A4 rectangle (using a piece of A4 paper as a guide) on the baking paper that lines the baking sheet. This will be the size of your meringue. ● To make the meringue, place the egg whites in a large, metal mixing bowl and whisk using a hand-held electric mixer to stiff peaks. Many people whisk the whites to medium peaks and then add the sugar, but I find it better to add the sugar only when the whites are stiff. Continue whisking on a medium speed and add the sugar a tablespoon at a time, whisking for 5 seconds or so after each addition and resist the temptation to hurry the process. Once the sugar is well incorporated, your meringue should be stiff and very glossy. ● Spoon two-thirds of the meringue on to the baking paper and spread into the A4 shape. Put the remaining meringue in the piping bag and pipe little peaks all the way round the edge of the meringue. ● Place the meringue in the oven and immediately

reduce the temperature to 130°C. Bake for 75 minutes, then turn off the oven but leave the meringue inside for at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight, with the door slightly ajar. ● To make the topping, whisk the cream to soft, floppy peaks and spoon over the meringue. I only do this minutes before serving so that the meringue stays crispy and chewy. Place the prepared fruits on top, dribbling the pulp of the passionfruit over last. Finish with a sifting of icing sugar, if you like. foodies 43

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RECIPES JOHN WHAITE

PLUM AND PINE NUT LOAF CAKE So I’ve lied a little bit here – this is actually a prune and pine nut cake – but I like my title a lot more. Prunes are a type of dried plum, so I’m not being completely mendacious. Bake at a low temperature for a longer time so the sugars in the fruit don’t char and burn. Serve in thick slices with a good cup of tea. Serves 8-10 170g salted butter, at room temperature 170g light brown muscovado sugar 3 eggs 170g plain flour Zest of 1 large orange 1 tbsp golden syrup 250g dried prunes, roughly chopped 85g pine nuts

Essential equipment 2lb loaf tin, greased and lined with baking paper

● Grease and line a 2lb loaf tin with baking paper. Preheat the oven to 150°C. ● Put the butter and sugar into a mixing bowl, or the bowl of a freestanding electric mixer with paddle attachment, and cream together until paler in colour and lighter in texture. Add the eggs, 1 tbsp of the flour, the orange zest and golden syrup, and beat in well until smooth. Tip the rest of the flour – no

need to sift – and beat that in too. Finally, fold in the prunes and the pine nuts. ● Dollop the mixture into the lined loaf tin and level the top with a spoon. Bake for 60-65 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out greasy but clean, or until the cake has stopped making a cackling, bubbly sound. Allow to cool briefly in the tin, then turn out to cool completely on a rack.

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Foodies Festival with top chefs

Edinburgh Inverleith Park August 9, 10 & 11

MICHELIN STARRED CHEF JEFF BLAND COOKING LIVE

BOOK 2FOR1

TICKETS QUOTE EDIN241

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0844 995 1111 www.foodiesfestival.com 27/03/2013 16:40


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BORDERS FOODIES

Scotland’s secret spots The flowers are blooming and there’s a definite sense of summer in the air. What can you do? Dust down your bikes and explore! Amy McGoldrick explains you don’t have to travel far to have an adventure. DUNS Duns is close to the Lammermuir Hills. A beautiful, tranquil Borders town, it is an ideal place to begin your journey. The trails are a mix of flat, quiet roads suitable for families and much hillier, demanding routes for the advanced cyclists.

Hugo’s of Duns 17 Market Square, TD11 3BY Tel: 01361 884 517 www.hugosduns.co.uk Hugo’s blends French romanticism in this idyllic Scottish setting. A lovely café and bistro, food is served all day, allowing you to unwind and recharge. A well-known and oft-haunted spot by locals, this is a great place to get to know the area and maybe sniff out some less wellknown trails.

PEEBLES An area of outstanding natural beauty, with cycle trails ranging from 7.5 mile circuits to 22.5 mile routes. With heathery hills, trails lined with trees and wonderful river views, these routes are perfect for families and inexperienced cyclists.

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(l-r) Osso Restaurant, Audela and Caddon View

Caddon View 14 Pim Road, Innerleithen EH44 6HH Tel: 01896 830 208 www.caddonview.co.uk A stunning house built in the 1850’s and set in its own grounds. Enjoy a predinner drink in front of the log fire after a long day. With an awardwinning, candle-lit restaurant, this Bed & Breakfast is

great for those who want a solid base for their travels. All guests are welcomed with complimentary tea and coffee on arrival.

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FOODIES BORDERS

Osso Restaurant 43 Eastgate Town Centre, EH45 8AD Tel: 01721 724 477 www.ossorestaurant.com Arrive during the day and you can expect organic, hot beverages, fresh home-made food and delicious daily specials. Venture in the evening, and you will be greeted with a magnificent Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant, filled with seasonal, local ingredients and an award-winning wine list.

Above: Audela Restaurant Left: The Cobbles Inn, Kelso

KELSO A magnificent, historical town with Georgian architecture, Kelso is on the banks of the River Tweed. A range of roads will take you on a number of quiet, lovely routes. Enjoy Bowmont Forest, or views that include the Eildon Hills, Floors Castle and Monteviot House Gardens.

The Cobbles Inn 7 Bowmont St, TD5 7JH Tel: 01573 223548 www.thecobbleskelso.co.uk A delightful, award-winning pub, ready and willing to host your sojourn with a roaring log fire, craft beers and great food. If you can, make your way on Friday evenings, where you can be sure to be entertained by local, talented musicians well into the night.

Oscar’s Wine Bar & Restaurant 35-37 Horse Market, TD5 7HE Tel: 01573 224008 www.oscars-kelso.com An established favourite amongst both locals and visitors to the area. With a menu of Border lamb, game and Scottish coastal seafood, their dishes are venerated far and wide. Visitors must beware it is closed on Tuesdays.

The Border Hotel The Green, TD5 8PQ Tel: 01573 420237 www.theborderhotel.com Ideally located for many infamous treks, such as St Cutherbert’s Way and the 470-mile adventure from the very south to the northernmost point of Scotland. With a lovely conservatory, this is a wonderful place to sample some great real ales, delicious food and delightful views. If it’s an evening meal you’re after, you’re advised to book ahead.

BERWICK-UPON-TWEED The Tweed Cycleway begins in Biggar, South Lanarkshire and ends on the coast of Berwick-uponTweed. An 89-mile, mostly downhill (phew!) ride which cuts through the heart of Border country.

Audela Bridger Street, TD15 1ES Tel: 01289 308827 www.berwickrestaurant.co.uk/ audela A Grade II listed former merchant’s house, Audela is named after the last ship to sail out of Berwick more

than 30 years ago. With stained glass, open fires and harbor views, expect mouthwatering, freshly caught seafood dishes.

JEDBURGH Perhaps the most historic town in this list, Jedburgh is picturesque and boasts of sites such as the 12th century Jedburgh Abbey. 5 trails vary from 7 – 21 miles.

The Caddy Mann Restaurant Mounthooly, TD8 6TJ Tel: 01835 850787 www.caddymann.com Local farmers, producers and suppliers provide a menu that is both seasonal and fitting for a venue so encased within the Borders. Having won awards for the last thirteen years, the menu remains consistently satisfying for both locals and tourists alike. ●

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FOODIES FOCUS COOK SCHOOLS NEWS

THE COOKERY SCHOOL Glasgow Tel: 0141 552 5239 www.thecookeryschool.org The Cookery School in Glasgow is offering a whole day of Asian Contemporary cooking. Students will learn how to make and perfect Indian paneer, Burmese coconut chicken curry, Thai marinated vegetables with red lentils, Malaysian stuffed peppers, Vietnamese rice and Afghan wilted spinach. They are also offering a Baking Made Easy day course, where you will learn the techniques of shortcrust pastry and how to make classic British and French desserts.

THE COOK SCHOOL Kilmarnock Tel: 01563 550 008 www.cookschool.org Take the stress out of planning a dinner party - this class shows you how to be the best host or hostess ever. Learn how to make an impressive three-course meal with minimal effort. Chefs understand the importance of making a good impression and this class is focused on easy planning and preparation and beautiful presentation.

TENNENTS TRAINING ACADEMY

THE PALAZZO COOKERY SCHOOL

Glasgow Tel: 0845 166 6060 www.tennentstraining academy.co.uk Tennents Training Academy is offering the perfect evening of cooking, drinks and dancing. You will have a hands-on dinner masterclass with their chef, followed by the art of cocktail making with a master mixologist. The evening will conclude at The Corinthian Club where you will receive a diamond chip for a free bet at the Casino, and you can dance the night away to celebrate your success.

Glasgow Tel: 01698 300 800 www.palazzokitchens.com Have you ever wanted to learn the art of making pasta from scratch? At Palazzo Cookery School, they will teach you how to make perfectly tender al dente pasta and soft pillows of ravioli. You will also learn how to make fresh sauces to accompany the pasta and bring out the best of seasonal flavours.

COLSTOUN COOKERY SCHOOL East Lothian Tel: 01620 822 922 www.colstouncookery school.co.uk Coulston Cookery Schoool teaches a Smart Kitchen Suppers course that can be prepared in advanced and assembled last minute. Example dishes include seared duck breasts stuffed with apple and wrapped in parma ham, panna cotta with cardamon and a chocolate cloud cake. â—?

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FOODIES FOCUS KITCHEN DESIGN

Rules are made to be broken n guru Abigail Interior desig you that being Ahern shows always have to stylish doesn’t it safe mean playing

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A great way of cosying up to open plan spaces is texturising. The floors in the loft above are concrete, yet they don’t feel harsh or cold because the area is layered with rugs, throws, wood and glass. The more texture you add, the more intrigue you add! One of the easiest ways to embellish featureless cupboards, drawers, dressers and consoles is by changing the handles. For a cheap fix, try spray painting existing handles in vibrant colours. Embellish handles with fabric, or visit any hardware store for a quirky range of knobs and grips. foodies 53

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KITCHEN DESIGN FOODIES FOCUS

“The more lights in a space, the more magical it will become”

The more lights you have in a space, the more magical it will become. The rooms in my home are fairly small, and I always have at least seven different lights glowing away in each. When the lighting is warm, diffused and layered, you hardly notice it: a space simply feels comfortable and relaxed. Get it wrong and you’ll find no one wants to linger.

Shadow adds depth to a room, so don’t try to eliminate it. Instead, I always opt for a softer wattage bulb so everything below is washed a little more gently. Clearing worktops of rarely-used gadgets opens space for a display of favourite books or some blousy blooms. I think people stop decorating too soon. The devil’s in the details. ●

Decorating with Style by Abigail Ahern, Quadrille, £16.99 foodies 55

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FOODIES SPA

MEDISPA HARVEY NICHOLS A Beverley Hills treatment with devotees including Kim Kardashian and Simon Cowell has arrived at Harvey Nichols. The placenta facial uses stem cells ethically harvested from a sheep’s placenta post-birth, with absolutely no harm to the animals. The O-Placenta stem cell treatment promises to increase production of collagen, glycoproteins and elastic fibres to re-energise the skin and reduce the signs of aging. My treatment started with a skin analysis, an exfoliation and then a microdermabrasion with red LED light therapy which helps the stem cells penet rate the skin. My skin feels very smooth and plumped and my face looked noticeably refreshed after the treatment. £185 For more information on the Placenta Facial by SCBI at Beyond MediSpa, please call Edinburgh 0131 524 8332 or visit www.beyondmedispa.co.uk for more details on the range. foodies 57

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COCKTAILS RECIPES

Summer daze Celebrate the warmer weather with these sweet, zingy recipes

PIMM’S JELLY We are indebted to chef and food writer Mark Hix for this inspiration, which looks and tastes like the distillation of a great British summer. It’s best made in individual glasses and is fabulous on a sunny day! Serves 4 1 large lemon 125g caster sugar a few sprigs of mint, plus extra to decorate peel from ¹⁄³ cucumber grated zest of ½ orange 4 leaves of gelatine 200 ml Pimm’s No. 1 150g wild strawberries a few borage flowers, if possible

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● Pare off the lemon zest in thin strips, avoiding the white pith. Squeeze the juice. ● Put 400ml water in a saucepan and add the sugar, mint, cucumber peel, lemon zest and juice and orange zest. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for 2 minutes. ● Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 1 hour. Strain though a sieve. ● Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes to soften, then squeeze out the excess. Bring 100 ml of the strained liquid back to the boil, add the gelatine leaves and stir until dissolved. ● Stir into the rest of the strained liquid, together with the Pimm’s. ● Pour the liquid into four glasses and add the strawberries and the borage flowers, if using. Place the glasses in the fridge to set for 5 hours or ideally overnight.

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RECIPES COCKTAILS

ELDERFLOWER CHAMPAGNE Makes about 4.5 litres 650g granulated sugar 1 lemon 6 elderflower heads 2 tbsp white wine vinegar

● Put the sugar in a saucepan with 1 litre cold water and heat gently, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved completely. Leave to cool. ● Pare off the lemon zest in large strips and place these, as well as the lemon juice, into your largest china bowl or a food-grade plastic bucket. Add the elderflower heads, the vinegar and an additional 3.5 litres cold water, then add the cooled sugar syrup and stir gently. Cover with a clean cloth and leave to steep. The champagne should start to ferment (you will notice small bubbles) after about 2 days, although it may take slightly longer. Leave to ferment for about another four days and then strain and bottle. Fill the bottles to about 2.5cm from the tops to allow for

expansion and put them in a cool place to mature. ● Elderflower champagne can explode in the bottle and it will make a sticky mess if it does, to say nothing of sending shards of glass everywhere. We recommend using strong plastic bottles with screw-top lids to avoid this problem. You can either recycle cola or lemonade bottles or buy new ones from home-brewing suppliers. It is wise to check them every few days and if the bottles seem to be expanding slightly around the middle, just loosen the lid very gently to release the excess fizz and then tighten the lid again. ● You can drink the champagne after a couple of weeks, but it improves if left for two months or more. Buy a copy of The Hedgerow Cookbook for only £14.00 including free UK P&P. Call 0844 576 8122 and quote reference CH1740. The Hedgerow Cookbook by Wild at Heart, Pavilion, £16.99

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RESTAURANT REVIEW SCRAN AND SCALLIE

SCRAN AND SCALLIE WORDS SUE HITCHEN

T

HE OFFERING on the window said “Public House with dining” so we dropped in on the offchance midweek. The bar has a very Scandinavian feel with whitewashed pine clad walls, stripped wooden tables and candles in silverbirch logs. We arrived at quarter to eight and were assured of a table in the dining area in ten to twenty minutes. An hour later we were the only people left in the bar and there was still no sign of the promised table so we agreed to eat where we were. Bereft of fellow diners, blasted by air conditioning, with not even a back to the bench seat, our only point of solace was a provenance map promising mussels from Shetland, Highland lamb shoulder and North Sea fish pie. At last food arrived. A shared portion of mussels (£12) were piled high enticingly but unfortunately lacked flavour and were overcooked and rubbery. Jeremy ‘s lamb hogget (£15) presented as a ball of shredded lamb on a pea and carrot soup and was

The Scran & Scallie EH4 1DT Tel: 0131 332 6281 Web: scranand scallie.com

lukewarm. He had expected the dish to be more substantial so had not ordered “bits and bobs”. My grilled monkfish tail with garlic and herbs (£18) was served so cold that I had to send it back. Served on a bed of spinach, the fish was cooked on the bone, very tender but rich, with garlic oil seeping out to fill the plate. I had ordered potatoes with chorizo (£4.50) to accompany the fish but they were cold by the time the replacement mains arrived. Our shared rhubarb and orange fool cheered us up as the creaminess of the fool was delightfully offset by the tartness of the stewed rhubarb. The bill was £55 excluding drinks which we felt was on the high side and certainly made for an expensive midweek supper. Axel our waiter was excellent in describing the menu, with great knowledge of the provenance of each course and can be congratulated for his good service. ●

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Glenkinchie Distillery, home of the Edinburgh Malt. Enjoy our exceptional exhibition with its renowned model distillery, followed by a guided tour through our production area and the observation room inside our warehouse to experience “the angels’ share”, finishing in our tasting room for a dram. This is an awe-inspiring experience for whisky fans and novices alike.

Tours + Prices

Opening Times

Glenkinchie Exhibition & Taste £3

January - March*

Self-guided exhibition experience, followed by a taste of Glenkinchie single malt, served in our tasting room

Glenkinchie Distillery Tour £7 Self-guided exhibition experience, guided tour of the distillery production area, finishing with a guided tasting of Glenkinchie single malt, served in our tasting room

Flavour of Scotland Tour £12

Self-guided exhibition experience, guided tour of the distillery production area, finishing with a tutored nosing and tasting of a range of single malts representing the different styles produced around Scotland (including Glenkinchie), served in our tasting room

Bespoke Tours price on application

Group tours, private evening tours, corporate tours and Glenkinchie master classes are also available upon request. Please contact us for more information.

Contact Pencaitland, Tranent, East Lothian EH34 5ET Tel: 01875 342012 Email: glenkinchie.distillery@diageo.com For directions see website

Mon - Sat: 10:00 - 15:00 Sun: 12:00 - 15:00 *For tours during the month of March, please contact us to check tour availability as we may be closed for maintenance

April - October

Mon - Sat: 10:00 - 17:00 Sun: 12:00 - 17:00

November & December

Mon - Sat: 10:00 - 15:00 Sun: 12:00 - 15:00

Last tour

1 hour before closing

Festive Tour Times

Restricted opening: please telephone in advance to check tour availability

Adverse Weather Conditions

In the event of adverse weather conditions, the site may be closed to ensure the health & safety of our employees and our visitors; please contact us prior to your visit


TRIED AND TREW RESTAURANTS AND BARS WORDS JONATHAN TREW

TOP TIP

What’s New

Award-winning singer Lana del Ray will return to the UK, and be at Glasgow’s O2 Academy 15th May. Grab a bite to eat beforehand at The Arches

GERANIUM DELIGHT This cocktail by Geranium Gin creator Henrik Hammer was inspired by Forbidden Fruit, a brandy liqueur with pomelo flavours that was popular in the United States before Prohibition. 30ml Geranium gin 2 tsp brandy 2 tsp strawberry liqueur 30ml grapefruit juice 30ml pineapple juice 2 tsp acacia honey ice cubes glass: wine goblet garnish: fresh strawberry

● Shake all the ingredients and strain into a wine glass over ice. Garnish with half a strawberry.

BONSAI EDINBURGH Bonsai has recently opened a second location for avid sushi lovers on Broughton Street. It offers sashimi, Japanese soups, gaijin, nigiri and maki sushi, salads, and teriyaki dishes. Although some purists may balk at the mayo-happy menu and the mention of chips at a sushi establishment, it’s the perfect restaurant for novices. 14 Broughton St, Edinburgh, Tel: 0131 557 5093 www.bonsaibarbistro.co.uk

THE VINTAGE EDINBURGH Artisan ale and carefully sourced charcuterie platters are at the heart of this new Leith bar. With strong links to the William Bros brewers, it’s no surprise that the Falkirk firm’s beers are prominent among the pumps and bottled beers at The Vintage, but they are not the only story. A wide, rotating

range of guest beers from craft brewers around the world plus over twenty wines add to the considerable choice. Taken from the à la carte menu, dishes such as the ballotine of rabbit stuffed with black pudding put the final nail in the coffin of boring pub grub. 60 Henderson Street, Edinburgh Tel: 0131 563 5293 www.thevintageleith.co.uk

MUNRO’S GLASGOW Munro’s on Glasgow’s Great Western Road is the latest offering from Maclay Inns. Artisan beers and a dude food menu which includes crispy pizza, firecracker chicken wings and chilli dogs are the main attractions. Munro’s will have eight craft and cask taps at any one time with six changing on a regular basis. Spot the references to Hector Munro. 185 Great Western Road, Glasgow Tel: 0141 332 0972 www.munrosglasgow.co.uk

ELEGANT WHITES DB Pinot Grigio 2012 £6.99, Waitrose Subtle aromatics of pear and nuts, hints of lemon Château Pigoudet “La Chapelle” £9.99, Majestic (£8.99 when you buy 2+ bottles) Soft and round on the palate with good structure Ned Sauvignon Blanc 2012 £9.99, Majestic Vibrant aromas of lime zest, lemongrass and passionfruit

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FOODIES FOCUS OUT AND ABOUT

Out & about

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VINTAGE LEITH OPENING New bar and restaurant The Vintage, Leith opens to acclaim

MISSONI EARTH HOUR Hotel Missoni, Edinburgh in global awareness campaign

ANGOSTURA LEGACY World’s most expensive rum is showcased 66 foodies

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Foodies Magazine May 2013