ISSUE 48 DECEMBER 2013 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
IN W A SLOW Y
B COOKER T -P CROCK O
and top chefs Mark Greenaway Gino D’Acampo Rick Stein
Keep it cool this Christmas
FESTIVE FUN with Rachel Khoo and Lisa Faulkner CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE ● PARTY COCKTAILS ● GREAT BRITISH BAKE-OFF 001_FFCover_1213.indd 1
Foodies Published by the Media Company Publications Ltd 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh EH3 6TL Tel: 0131 226 7766 Fax: 0131 225 4567 www.foodies-magazine.co.uk
Cover recipe from The Way I Cook by Lisa Faulkner, Simon & Schuster, £20
EDITORIAL Editor Sue Hitchen Design Angela McKean Sub Editor Caroline Whitham Digital Imaging Malcolm Irving Publishing Assistants Lisa Chanos Zoe Hitchen Daria Privalko Advertising Design Charis Stewart
Follow Santa on his world tour
HEN FATHER CHRISTMAS LOADS up his sleigh, he knows he’ll be seeing every country of the globe in a single night. We haven’t quite managed to reach those heights (after all, who could follow in those snowy footprints?) but we’ve had a jolly good try. COSY SUPPERS Start with Rachel Khoo’s recipes, hailing from WITH A SLOW COOKER the markets and kitchens of rural France. She left her Little Paris Kitchen behind to bring us tasty, hearty dishes that still capture that indefinable French flair. Or, if you’d prefer something from a warmer climate, how about starting the Christmas menu with Omar Allibhoy’s sizzling prawns, and finishing off with Gino D’Acampo’s cherry tiramisu? Or, if you’re not planning a traditional feast, how about serving Rick Stein’s luxurious Madras fish curry? Our recipe of the month is a very unusual but delicious dish from Mark Greenaway, who has just opened his new restaurant, Bistro Moderne, in Edinburgh’s Stockbridge. He suggests serving duck with watermelon, with teapots of tarragon sauce to pour over. Even if you’re not in charge of the kitchen this festive season, you can still show off your culinary skills with our selection of preserves to make at home. Merry Christmas! Sue Hitchen, Editor
ADVERTISING Business Development Sharon Little SUBSCRIPTIONS Receive a copy of Foodies every month. Only £15 (regular price £24) for 12 issues delivered to your door call 0131 226 7766 or email the editor: firstname.lastname@example.org
Lisa Faulkner won Celebrity Masterchef in 2010, and has gone on to publish two cookery books
Mark Greenaway is the chef-patron of two restaurants, including the new Bistro Moderne by Mark Greenaway
Rachel Khoo rose to stardom with a BBC1 series chronicling her cooking in her Little Paris Kitchen
Gino D’Acampo is one of the nation’s bestloved TV chefs, specialising in Italian cuisine foodies 3
BOOKS, TV AND WHAT’S ON
COMPETITION Win a slow cooker by Crock-Pot
CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE
LISA FAULKNER Prepares for a family Christmas
GREAT BRITISH BAKE-OFF 25 Try a festive ham or a beef Wellington OMAR ALLIBHOY 31 Sizzling prawns make a simple starter GINO D’ACAMPO Indulgence in a cherry tiramisu
RICK STEIN His favourite Madras fish curry
HARRY EASTWOOD 37 Use up that turkey on Boxing Day RACHEL KHOO 38 The Parisian chef tries a country Christmas in rural France
MARK GREENAWAY 45 The Edinburgh chef’s inventive duck dish is recipe of the month PRESERVES
COCKTAILS Sparkle with these party tipples
OUT AND ABOUT 66 What’s been happening on Scotland’s foodie scene foodies 5
Warm up this Winter at the Edinburgh Larder We have loads of lovely treats waiting for you!
Our fantastic bakery run by Caroline Walsh is now open at the bistro in Alva Street daily from 9am-5pm. Drop in for a mouth-watering slice of cake and a fantastic cup of artisan roast coffee or eteaket tea – or for extra luxury, try our delicious hot chocolate with handmade marshmallows! We’re also offering two great deals in January and February if you pre-book a table at our bistro. £10 off our dinner menu on a Monday and Thursday evening from 7-9pm – Quote ‘Foodies £10 off’ when booking
Dine from our pre-theatre menu all night on Tuesday & Wednesday – Quote ‘Foodies pre-theatre’ when booking
Places are limited so call to reserve your table now on 01312254599 BISTRO 1A ALVA ST, EDINBURGH, EH2 4PH 0131 225 4599 BISTRO@EDINBURGHLARDER.CO.UK WWW.EDINBURGHLARDER.CO.UK 006_EdinburghLarder_1213.indd 10 Untitled-2 1
26/11/2013 15:15 25/11/2013 17:08
Gisela Graham tin wobbling robin, £4.50 www.tch.net
Retro fairy lights tea cup & saucer, £16 www.hunkydory home.co.uk
Green hand-painted tiffin with birds, £39.50 www.fairwindonline.com
Scandi Reindeer Music snow dome, £39 www.tch.net
Celebrate the festive season with these merry and bright touches
Eat, Drink and be Merry tea towel, £12 www.berry red.co.uk
Gisela Graham hessian candles , £7 (small) £9 (large) www.tch.net
Top Moumoute pure sheepskin stool cover, £75 www.lapadd.com Stag bottle stop, £12.50 www.oliverbonas.com
Robin napkins boxed set of 4, £40 www.annabel james.co.uk foodies 7
BEER TEA OR TEA BEER, ANYONE? Leaf tea experts eteaket have teamed up with Edinburgh’s only micro-brewery, Barney’s Beer, to create two new products: a beer tea and a tea beer. Award-winning eteaket joined Barney’s to come up with the fabulous Smoky Lapsang Porter and Breakfast Brew Tea. They can be found at Tom Kitchin’s Scran and Scallie in Stockbridge, as well as Vino wine stores across Edinburgh. Vist www.eteaket.co.uk or www.barneysbeer.com for more information.
Stuffed full of goodies Celebrate the finest in Devon produce with Devon Hampers, a new bespoke and ready-made hamper company. All hampers are filled with a mix of artisan goodies sure to impress the foodies in your life. Hamper prices start at £14 and can be ordered on www.devonhampers.com
BEST IN SHOW Edinburgh School of Food and Wine has beaten Scotland’s finest cookery schools to win the accolade of Best Scottish Cookery School at the British Cookery School Awards. The event took place at the Vintners’ Company in London on 11th November.
SHADES OF PALE Innis and Gunn’s India Pale Ale, last released in 2009, is going to be back soon. Keep an eye on innisand gunn.com for more info.
Note well Husband and wife team Steve and Viv Muir have just fulfilled a long-held ambition by setting up their own gin micro-distillery, NB Distillery Ltd, in their home town of North Berwick. Their new brand of handcrafted gin is made from pure British grain spirit and seven botanicals, all of which have been meticulously selected to produce a deep and balanced flavour. The gin is stilled, blended, bottled and labelled by hand in North Berwick. www.nbgin.com
Dainty Dollops from Montezuma’s have been reflavored, retextured and packaged in a smart tube. The chocolate disks are filled with a melting ganache centre. The range is now available at Montezuma’s shops and select John Lewis, Debenhams and moonpig.com. Priced at £7.49 per tube. foodies 9
BOOKS, TV AND WHAT’S ON
COOKING THE BOOKS Asian Adventure The Hairy Bikers Orion Books £20 Follow the Hairy Bikers on their dream trip through Asia, with inspiring recipes and funny anecdotes. The I Diet Gino D’Acampo Kyle Books £15 Gino D’Acampo shows how to enjoy Italian food whilst still losing weight. The Pocket Bakery Rose Prince Orion Book £19 The Pocket Bakery in Battersea has launched their first cookbook. Learn how to make their famous sausage plait with pancetta and fennel seeds or polenta bread with sage and bacon.
Let’s Do Christmas! Let’s Do Christmas..with Gino & Mel returns with a culinary food countdown to the big day. Tune in as they show you, in the ten days leading up to Christmas, how to create an unforgettable traditional meal. It wouldn’t be a Gino and Mel show without an emphasis on accessibility and great laughs along the way. 15 December -24 December on ITV.
WHAT’S ON BANCHORY FESTIVE FARMERS MARKET Scott Skinner Square, Banchory, Kincardineshire 21 December, 1:30pm, Free Take advantage of all that Kincardineshire has to offer with a visit to the Banchory Farmers Market. Try their artisan jams, cordials, delightfully smelly cheese, red deer venison, and other goodies, such as handmade lace cards and perfumed soaps.
GLASGOW BEER CLUB Old Stag Inn, 12 Greenview Street, Glasgow 30 December, 6pm-12am, Free Meet up and grab a pint with fellow beer afficiados at the Glasgow Beer Club, this month visiting the Old Stag Inn in Pollockshaws. Celebrate the finest Scottish microbreweries and craft beer, and discuss hops and crystal clear mountain water and everything that makes real Scottish beer special.
THE HIGHLANDS FOOD FAIR Armadale Castle Gardens And Museum Of The Isles, Sleat, Highland, Until 21 December, 11am-3pm, Free The big cities are buzzing with Christmas frenzy. Take a weekend trip away to The Highlands for the Food Fair and experience a quaint and cozy Christmas. Sip on mulled wine or warm apple cider, grab a tartan blanket and look up at the sky. You may even see the Northern Lights.
Win cosy suppers with a Crock-Pot slow cooker
OODIES Magazine is happy to present an absolute must-have for any kitchen this Christmas. The 3.5L Crock-Pot New Design slow cooker is designed to create delicious, fuss-free meals for the whole family. Once ingredients are in, it will gently simmer, allowing flavour to develop and locking in nutrients to create tasty, healthy dinners and succulent, tender meat, even with the cheapest cuts. Look forward to a more stress-free Christmas! It also features a Keep Warm function, so you can serve your meal exactly when you want it, without having to worry about over-cooking. Its festive red finish also means it will look great on any kitchen worktop and its generous capacity is perfect for feeding up to four people. For more information and recipes, visit: www.crockpot.co.uk or join the conversation at facebook.com/CrockPotUK â—?
TO ENTER For your chance to win this great prize, simply answer the following question:
What handy function does this seasonal slow cooker have? Send your answer and contact details, including your email address, on a postcard to Foodies, 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh, EH3 6TL or email enter@ foodies-magazine.com
Send your answer and contact details, including your email address, on a postcard to Foodies, 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh, EH3 6TL or email enter@ foodies-magazine.com Prize is strictly subject to availability. Prize is non-transferable and there is no cash alternative. The editorâ€™s decision is final.
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FOODIES CHRISTMAS GIFTS
Citrus candles Arran Arromatics, £19.50 www.arranarromatics.com
Cheese making kit £23 www.thewhiski rooms.co.uk Wildflower seeds starter pack £25, www.seed pantry.co.uk
Under the tree
Assorted Chocolate Bars, £2.99, www.chocolateand love.com
The foodie in your life won’t be able to resist these delicious gifts on Christmas morning
Scottie Dog shortbread tin £8.90, www.walkers shortbread.com Sizzling steak set £65, www.steakstones.com Spiced Orange Edinburgh Gin, £17.99 www.spencer fieldspirit.com
Create a unique gift at Doodles, www.doodles scotland.co.uk Balblair 1990 £87, www.balblair.com
Mini fondue set, £19.99 www.lake land.co.uk
MEET THE CHEFS LISA FAULKNER
Deck the halls Lisa Faulkner shares her love of dinner parties, as well as some festive recipes with a twist that will delight your Christmas guests
DECIDED to buy my house because I fell in love with the kitchen – it’s large enough to fit a lot of people; it’s bright, with doors opening out on to the garden, and above all, I can cook and chat all at the same time. Dinner parties aren’t really what they used to be when my parents threw them, but the excitement of making something special is still alive and well in my home. Usually dinner parties are decided that day, friends or family bringing round different dishes; not enough chairs around the table so they have to be found elsewhere; mismatching crockery; the garden table brought in from outside, and
“Dinner parties aren’t what they used to be in my parents day, but the excitement is still alive and well in my home”
again, noise! We have an expression we use a lot: “We eat like kings”– and we really do. We eat enough to feed small armies and by the end of the night there is usually nothing left. Cooking is everything to me – it calms me and it anchors me. Whenever life throws its curve balls, I instantly gravitate towards the kitchen, where I can hide in recipe books and in food memories. There’s something about measuring, weighing, chopping and tasting that sorts me right out! I also find that I want to cook different things at different times – a song on the radio, a family photo, a conversation with my friends, a picture in a magazine and, most important, the weather can change the way I feel and ultimately the way I cook, and I wanted to share this. Feel free to use these recipes in whatever way you like, using different recipes for different times. It is very personal to me, but somehow I think I’m not alone. Enjoy! ●
LISA FAULKNER RECIPES
SMOKED SALMON WITH PICKLED CUCUMBER One of the places I have been lucky enough to work in is Roux at Parliament Square. Steve Groves, who won MasterChef: The Professionals and is now head chef there, has become a good friend of mine. I think his food is amazing, he is so clever and I love cooking with him. He made these pickled cucumber ribbons, and I had to steal the idea from him because after making them in the restaurant they were all I wanted to eat at home for weeks! Serves 4 300 g (10 oz) piece of smoked salmon, cubed A small bunch of fresh dill, leaves picked, to garnish
For the pickled cucumber 125ml rice vinegar 50g caster sugar 1 tsp coriander seeds 2 dried bird’s eye chillies 6 white peppercorns 2 cucumbers 2 tbsp fine sea salt
● To make the pickled cucumbers, combine the vinegar, sugar and spices in a saucepan and heat gently until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat and cool. ● Peel the cucumbers, cut in half lengthways and scoop out and discard the seeds. Rub with salt and set aside for 10 minutes. Rinse under cold water and pat dry. ● Using a potato peeler, peel the cucumber into long ribbons and place in a large glass storage jar. Pour the spiced vinegar over the cucumber ribbons to cover and then seal the jar and place in the fridge for 3–4 hours or overnight. ● Remove the cucumber ribbons from the vinegar and arrange on serving plates. Top with the cubed salmon and garnish with dill to finish.
LISA FAULKNER RECIPES
VENISON WITH CELERIAC AND APPLE PURÉE, RED WINE AND CHOCOLATE SAUCE Serves 4 600 g venison loin, trimmed Olive oil 1 tbsp juniper berries, crushed 2 thyme sprigs; 2 garlic cloves, bruised 50 g unsalted butter salt and pepper 1 quantity Red Wine and Chocolate Sauce, to serve (see www.foodies-magazine.com)
For the purée 1 celeriac head, peeled and cubed 500 ml milk 500 ml water 2 Bramley apples, peeled, cored and diced 1 tbsp caster sugar 25 g unsalted butter White pepper
● Preheat the oven to 180°C. ● To make the purée, place celeriac in a large saucepan with milk and water. Bring to the boil and then simmer gently until soft. Strain and reserve cooking liquid. Meanwhile, put apple and sugar into a saucepan with a splash of water and simmer gently until soft. Spoon apple and celeriac into a blender with a ladle of the celeriac cooking liquid. Blitz until smooth. Add butter and season. Reheat gently before serving. ● Rub venison with olive oil and season well. Crush juniper berries in a pestle and mortar and rub over meat. Heat a large ovenproof frying pan over a high heat, add venison and sear on all sides for 5 mins until golden brown. Add thyme, garlic and butter to the pan and baste meat for 2 minutes. Cover with foil and transfer pan to preheated oven for 8 mins. Remove meat from pan and leave to rest on a warm plate for 10 mins. ● Carve venison into thick slices and serve with celeriac and apple purée, red wine and chocolate sauce and some simple green vegetables such as kale or Savoy cabbage.
RECIPES LISA FAULKNER
ICED BERRIES WITH WHITE CHOCOLATE SAUCE This is a dish that I have had many times at The Ivy in London. I remember first going there when I was about 26. I was with Angela, my best friend, and we were so over-excited. I remember our dinner arriving and us wanting to take photos of each other and the food, only to be pounced upon by the waiter because no cameras are allowed. We drank champagne and spotted a few celebs, but mainly just ate fantastic food and laughed with each other all night
Serves 4 About 450 g frozen berries (e.g. raspberries, blackberries, redcurrants, blackcurrants, blueberries) 150 g white chocolate 150 ml double cream ● Take the berries out of the freezer and arrange them on a serving plate 10 minutes before you are ready to serve. ● Break up the white chocolate into small pieces and put them in a bowl. Put the cream in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Pour over the chocolate and mix together until the chocolate has melted. ● Immediately pour the white chocolate sauce over the berries and eat straight away.
The Way I Cook by Lisa Faulkner, Simon & Shuster, £20
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GREAT BRITISH BAKE-OFF FOODIES
SPICED CIDER-BAKED CHRISTMAS HAM There is something so delicious about a freshly cooked ham, hot from the oven Serves 8 1 large onion, quartered 3 fresh bay leaves 2 star anise 1 cinnamon stick 6 black peppercorns 5 allspice berries 1.5 litres medium-dry cider 1 x 6kg unsmoked ham on the bone, soaked overnight in cold water, then drained 15 cloves 2 tbsp golden syrup 3 tbsp black treacle 2 tsp ground ginger Good pinch cayenne pepper 2–3 tbsp demerara sugar
● Heat the oven to 120°C. Put the onion, bay leaves, star anise, cinnamon stick, peppercorns and allspice in a large, deep, flameproof roasting tray. Pour in the cider, then put a rack in the tray. Set the ham on the rack. Cover the tin with a tent of foil, sealing it well. ● Set the tray on the hob and bring the cider to the boil. Simmer for 15 minutes, then transfer the tray to the oven. Leave to cook for 12 hours. ● Remove the tray from the oven. Now you can either set the ham aside until it is cool enough to handle and then continue with the final glazing straightaway, or you can leave to cool completely and then finish it the next day.
● Turn the oven up (or on) to 180°C. Using a sharp knife, carefully peel the skin away from the cooked ham, leaving as much of the fat on the ham as you can. Score the fat in a crisscross pattern and press the cloves into the crosses. ● Mix the golden syrup with the treacle. Using a spoon, drizzle this mixture all over the fat of the ham. Sprinkle with the ginger, cayenne pepper and sugar. If the ham is still warm, roast for 20 minutes. If cooled and being reheated to serve the next day, roast for 45–60 minutes. The ham should be well-covered with a sticky glaze and piping hot throughout before serving.
FOODIES GREAT BRITISH BAKE-OFF
BEEF WELLINGTON WITH WILD MUSHROOMS You can sear the beef and make the mushroom mix well in advance, then keep them in the fridge, but make sure you bring the meat to room temperature before you assemble your Wellington, or it may not cook in the correct time Serves 6 25g porcini mushrooms Veg or groundnut oil 1 - 1.2 kg piece aged fillet beef, cut from the thick end of the fillet (try to get as uniform a piece as possible) at room temperature 70g butter 2 small shallots, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 300g mixed fresh mushrooms Leaves of 3-4 sprigs thyme 4 tbsp Madeira Plain flour, for dusting 750g ready-made puff pastry 1 medium egg, beaten 75g good chicken liver paté Salt and black pepper
● Put the porcini in a small bowl, cover with boiling water and soak for 10 mins. ● Meanwhile, heat a little oil in a heavy-based frying pan. Season the beef well with salt and pepper, then sear it over a high heat until browned all over. Set aside to cool. ● Drain the porcini and chop finely. Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat and cook the shallots for about 10 minutes until pale golden. Add the garlic and fry for a further minute. ● Add the mushrooms, porcini and thyme. Increase the heat a little and cook for 15–20 minutes until the mushrooms have softened and their moisture has evaporated. ● Add the Madeira and season well with salt and pepper. Turn up the heat and cook until the wine has evaporated. Tip the mushroom mix into a bowl and set aside to cool completely. ● Heat the oven, with a baking tray inside, to 200°C. Roll out half the pastry on a lightly floured worktop to a rectangle of about 25 x 30 cm and about the thickness of a pound coin. ● Place the pastry on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Brush the edges of the pastry with beaten egg, then place the seared beef in the centre. Spread the chicken liver pâté over the top and sides of the beef, then press the mushroom mix into the pâté all over. ● Roll out the second half of the pastry to a rectangle that is 4cm wider and longer than the first one. ● Drape the pastry over the beef, matching the edges and corners all round. Press the edges together, making sure the pastry is pressed snugly around the beef. Trim the edges to neaten and crimp them to make sure they hold together. Brush the Wellington all over with beaten egg (you can use any pastry trimmings to decorate the top). ● Lift the Wellington, on its baking paper, and place it on the hot baking tray in the oven. Cook for about 30 minutes until the pastry is golden all over (turn the baking sheet around after 20 minutes to make sure the Wellington cooks evenly). Remove from the oven and set aside to rest for 10 minutes before serving, with creamy mash or Gratin Dauphinois.
FOODIES GREAT BRITISH BAKE-OFF
AUTUMN FRUIT STRUDEL Serves 6 375g ready-rolled sheet of butter puff pastry, thawed if frozen Plain flour, for dusting 15g unsalted butter, melted 3 tbsp blackberry jam or jelly 4 tbsp ground almonds 1 small Bramley apple 1 firm Conference or Comice pear Handful of ripe blackberries ½ tsp ground allspice 1 tbsp caster sugar or light brown muscovado sugar 1 egg, beaten Icing sugar, for dusting
● Heat the oven to 190°C. Cut the sheet of pastry width-ways in half. ● Roll out one half on a lightly floured surface to make a 30 x 40cm rectangle (the pastry will get very thin). Lightly brush the melted butter over the pastry, leaving a 2.5cm border clear. Spread the jam or jelly on the butter, within the border, and scatter the ground almonds evenly over the top. ● Peel the apple. Grate into a colander and squeeze out as much juice as you can. Peel and finely slice the pear. Mix with the apple and the blackberries. Spread the fruit evenly over the pastry, then sprinkle with the allspice and caster or brown sugar. ● Starting on one long side, carefully roll up the pastry to form a log shape. Turn it over so the seal is underneath, then tuck the ends under. Brush all over with beaten egg. Transfer to the lined baking sheet. ● Place in the heated oven and bake for about 30 minutes until golden and puffed up. Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool a little before dusting with icing sugar and serving with lots of double cream or custard.
Great British Bake Off: Winter Kitchen by Lizzie Kamenetzky, Ebury Publishing, £20
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OMAR ALLIBHOY RECIPES
GAMBAS AL AJILLO You’ll find this dish in pretty much every tapas bar in every coastal town in Spain, as well as in all the major cities. We love our fish and shellfish so much that the capital, Madrid (which is in the middle of mainland Spain), is a major fresh fish importer, second only to Tokyo. There are two ways of preparing this dish, depending on whether or not you want to peel the prawns before cooking. Traditionally this would be cooked in a flameproof terracotta dish, in which you then serve the prawns – if you don’t have one you can use an ordinary frying pan and leave the heads and shells on. I love these either way. Serves 2 12 large raw prawns in their shells 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 100 ml olive oil 3 dried cayenne chillies (or other dried chilli) sea salt flakes 1 tablespoon freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley
● Peel the prawns, leaving the tails intact (if you are using a frying pan you can cook the prawns in their shells). Sprinkle with a little salt. ● Put the olive oil, garlic and chillies in the terracotta pot or frying pan and place over a high heat. When the garlic starts to turn golden, add the prawns. Cook for 1 min on each side, until they just turn pink. Sprinkle over the chopped parsley and serve immediately in the pot. Take care not to burn yourself as the oil will stay hot.
Tapas Revolution Omar Allibhoy, Ebury Press, £20
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GINO D’ACAMPO RECIPES
TIRAMISU CON CILIEGE – CHERRY TIRAMISU If I asked you to name one Italian dessert, I guarantee the vast majority would say tiramisu. However, not everybody likes the coffee that the biscuits are traditionally soaked in, so my version uses cherry liqueur instead. If making this for children, just leave out the booze and cook the cherries in a little water. Serves 4 400g cherries, pitted and halved 50g caster sugar 4 tbsp cherry or amaretto liqueur 8 small madeleine cakes or sponge finger biscuits 2 tbsp chopped toasted nuts
For the mascarpone cream 2 egg yolks 2 tbsp caster sugar 250g mascarpone cheese 2 tbsp cherry or amaretto liqueur
● Heat the cherries, sugar and 2 tablespoons of the liqueur in a saucepan until the sugar has dissolved and the cherries are slightly softened and their skin starts to burst. Set aside to cool. ● For the mascarpone cream, whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl until pale. Beat in the mascarpone and 2 tablespoons of the liqueur. ● Place a layer of cake in the bottom of 4 individual glasses. Spoon over a little of the remaining liqueur, then add a layer of the cooked cherries and their juices. Top with a layer of the mascarpone cream. Repeat the layering until you are nearly at the top of the glass, finishing with the cream. ● Sprinkle the top with chopped nuts and chill for 2 hours before serving.
Italian Escape, Gino D’Acampo, Hodder, £20 foodies 33
RICK STEIN RECIPES
MADRAS FISH CURRY OF SNAPPER, TOMATO AND TAMARIND Serves 4 – 6 60ml vegetable oil 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds 1 large onion, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, finely crushed 30 fresh curry leaves 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder 2 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp turmeric 400g tinned chopped tomatoes 100ml Tamarind liquid 2 green chillies, each sliced lengthways into 6 pieces, with seeds 1 tsp salt 700g snapper fillets, cut into 5cm chunks To serve, boiled basmati rice
● Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan or karahi over a medium heat. When hot, add the mustard seeds and fry for 30 seconds, then stir in the onion and garlic and fry gently for about 10 minutes until softened and lightly golden. ● Add the curry leaves, chilli powder, coriander and turmeric and fry for 2 minutes, then stir in the tomatoes, tamarind liquid, green chillies and salt and simmer for about 10 minutes until rich and reduced. ● Add the fish, cook for a further 5 minutes or until just cooked through, and serve with plain rice.
Rick Stein’s India, BBC Books, £25
BOXING DAY SALAD RECIPES
BOXING DAY TURKEY SALAD Serves 6 4 tbsp olive oil 400g leftover bacon rolls, or grilled streaky bacon, broken into bits 600g roast parsnips, potatoes, carrots 2 onions, finely diced Small handful sage leaves, chopped fine 400g cooked turkey meat, torn into shreds 160g chestnuts or walnuts, roughly chopped 6 large handfuls soft, dark lettuce leaves (such as oak leaf), washed and dried
For the dressing 4 tbsp cranberry jelly (you could also use leftover cranberry sauce) 2 tbsp walnut oil 4 tbsp raspberry vinegar
● Preheat the oven to 200˚C. ● Warm the olive oil in a large roasting tin before adding the bacon rolls, roasted vegetables, chopped onion, sage and turkey meat, along with the chestnuts (if using). If you’re using walnuts, toast them in a dry frying pan for 5 minutes until golden, before adding. ● Put in the hot oven for 10 minutes, until all the ingredients are warmed through. ● Make the dressing by heating up the cranberry jelly in a small saucepan. Once it has become liquid, whisk in the walnut oil and raspberry vinegar. ● Combine the warm ingredients with the fresh lettuce leaves. Drizzle the dressing over and serve warm.
From A Salad for All Seasons by Harry Eastwood, Bantam Press, £20
This recipe is highly adaptable and I sugges t that you substitute what you have in your fridge (co oked carrots, sprouts, roast potatoes) for what I hav e in mine here.
MEET THE CHEFS RACHEL KHOO
Joyeux Noël à vous Rachel Khoo walks us through the holiday season in her adopted homeland of France
FTER the whirlwind months that followed the release of the Little Paris Kitchen book and television show, my life seemed to go back to normal. I was still living in the same apartment with my kitchenette comprising two gas rings and a mini oven, still no dishwasher in sight. I bought my grocery shopping from the same fruit and veg guy, visited the same baker and traipsed to my butcher. Little had changed. Aside from my cheese lady’s persistent jokey questioning of “where are the cameras?”, each time I picked up a hunk of fruity Comte, life went on in my little kitchen as before. But I could feel a growing rumble in my stomach, and it wasn’t because I was craving a piece of French cheese and crusty baguette, my all-time favourite snack. Just like when I moved from London to Paris eight years ago, I had an itchy yearning for new tastes and discoveries. I still loved Paris (I always will), but I felt I wanted to charter unknown territories in the country I had called home for almost a decade. It was time for me to pack up
“Alsace’s Christmas markets are in full swing, and the air is filled with spices, candied nuts and pine needles”
my cooking kit and discover what lay beyond the twenty arrondissements that piece Paris together. I headed to Alsace, one of France’s smallest regions, a week before Christmas and it turned out to be the busiest time of the year to visit. Its famous Christmas markets were in full swing, and the air was filled with a heady mix of vin chaud aux épices (mulled wine with spices), candied nuts and pine needles. Christmas trees and twigs decorate the outside of cute little wooden huts, each delicately draped with bright twinkling lights. When evening descends, the markets truly come to life, with people sipping hot mulled wine and munching on sausages, pretzels or some of the many sweet treats on offer, including waffles, crêpes and a wonderful array of Christmas biscuits. In Strasbourg, the region’s capital, I found a market that had a handful of stands run by local producers. One was selling goat’s cheese, another showcasing artisan beer; a local mushroom grower offered a selection of dried and fresh mushrooms and a flour artisanal flours and biscuits. All of them were warm and welcoming in spite of the finger-numbing cold weather (wrapping your hands around a warm cup of vin chaud is a must at all times). With a few simple ingredients like these, you too can create and experience the magic of a French Christmas at home. ●
RACHEL KHOO RECIPES
VELOUTÉ AU POTIMARRON AVEC DU CHANTILLY ET LES OIGNONS CONFITS PUMPKIN SOUP WITH CHANTILLY AND ONION CONFIT Onion soup is pretty much a staple on every French alpine menu. But, listed just underneath, a pumpkin soup sneaks in more often than not, and I was fortunate enough to be served an exemplary version at the little bed and breakfast I stayed at in the Savoie region after a long day on the slopes. Unlike the dark, golden brown-hued onion soup, its pumpkin counterpart is altogether different; a vivacious bright orange, it looks a little out of place between the drabber winter fare which is commonplace in the Alps. Roasting the pumpkin might sound like a bit of a pain (you could just as easily bung everything into a pan with vegetable stock) but it’s well worth it Serves 4 1kg pumpkin or butternut squash, chopped into large pieces 4 cloves of garlic, left whole in the skin 4 tbsp pumpkin seeds Olive oil Salt and ground black pepper 1 large onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 tbsp butter 1 litre hot vegetable stock 100ml whipping cream
● Place the pumpkin, garlic and some of the seeds on a baking tray, toss with olive oil and a pinch of salt. Roast for 30 minutes at 180°C, or until tender. ● Leave to cool before scooping the flesh from the pumpkin pieces into a pot. Squeeze out the garlic from the skin and add to the pot. ● Clean the seeds of any strands of pumpkin and add to a separate pan with the onion and butter. Place on a medium heat and fry for about 10
minutes until the onion begins to caramelize. Stir occasionally. ● Finish the soup by adding the hot vegetable stock to the pumpkin. Blend until smooth then taste and season. Whip the cream with a pinch of salt and plenty of black pepper, to taste. ● To serve, ladle the soup into bowls and divide the caramelized onions and pumpkin seeds between the bowls. Add a dollop of the whipped cream to finish.
RECIPES RACHEL KHOO
POULET RÔTI AU VIN ROUGE ROAST RED WINE CHICKEN Serves 4-6 150ml red wine 100g tomato paste 3 sprigs of thyme, leaves 3 sprigs of marjoram, leaves 100ml red wine vinegar 1 whole chicken cut into 8 pieces (approx. 1.5kg) Salt and ground black pepper 500g baby potatoes 3 onions, peeled and cut into quarters 6 carrots, peeled and cut into quarters lengthways
● Mix together the red wine, tomato paste, herbs and red wine vinegar. Season the chicken pieces with plenty of salt and pepper then place in a bag with the marinade. Shake the bag to make sure each piece is well coated. Place in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. ● In the meantime, place the potatoes in a pan of cold water, put the lid on top and bring up to the boil. Boil for 1–2 minutes, then drain in a colander. Place the onions, carrots and potatoes in a large baking dish or tray (big enough to fit the chicken and the vegetables) and pour over 125ml of water.
● Preheat the oven to 200°C. Remove the chicken from the fridge and arrange the pieces, skin side up, in a layer on top of the vegetables in the dish. Pour the rest of the marinade over the chicken. ● Cover with a sheet of baking paper or foil and roast in the preheated oven for 30 minutes. Remove the baking paper or foil and baste the chicken with the cooking liquid. Roast, uncovered, for another 15 minutes or until the skin is crisp. Serve immediately. Note: The veg and chicken can be prepared up to a day in advance, then simply pop it all in the baking tray and cook as indicated in the recipe.
KUGELHOPF 300g strong white bread flour 40g caster sugar 1 tsp table salt 5g (2 tsp) instant dried yeast 125g milk 1 egg, beaten 70g soft butter, cut into small cubes 70g soft, ready-to-eat stoned prunes 50ml cognac, rum or brandy (optional, if using very dry prunes)* 8-10 blanched almonds for decoration (optional) 1 egg, plus 2 tablespoons milk, for the eggwash 1 tablespoon soft butter, for greasing the mould 1 x 20cm kugelhopf mould, or 1 x 900g loaf tin, greased and lined with baking paper * If using dry prunes, cut them into small 1cm chunks and leave to soak in the cognac while the dough rises.
From My Little French Kitchen, Rachel Khoo, Penguin, £20
● Mix together all the dry ingredients in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook and make a well in the middle. Add the milk and egg to the centre. Knead on a medium speed for 6-8 minutes. The dough will become soft and elastic. Add the softened butter bit by bit and continue to mix for another 5 minutes until thoroughly incorporated. Scrape the bowl down periodically with a spatula to insure all the butter is mixed in. ● Once the dough is formed (it should be slightly sticky), decant into a large clean bowl. Cover with clingfilm and leave in the fridge until it has doubled in size, ideally overnight. ● Place one almond into each groove at the bottom of the kugelhopf mould. If using a loaf tin, just scatter loosely. ● Once the dough has doubled in size,
remove from the fridge. Drain the prunes of any excess liquid and knead into the dough, but keep the kneading to a minimum. Shape the dough into a ball and poke a hole in the middle. Tuck it neatly in the mould, making sure the middle pokes through the dough. ● Brush with eggwash. If using a loaf tin, form the dough into a sausage the length of the tin. Pop into the tin and brush with eggwash. Cover with a damp clean tea towel or cling film and leave to rise somewhere warm until doubled in size. ● Preheat the oven to 200°C. Brush the kugelhopf with eggwash and place in the oven. Bake for 30 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the middle. Remove from the oven and leave to sit for 10 minutes before turning out onto a cooling tray or rack. foodies 43
MARK GREENAWAY BISTRO MODERNE RECIPE OF THE MONTH
ROASTED DUCK BREAST, WATERMELON, SALSIFY AND COOKING LIQUEUR. 4 duck breasts 1 bag baby leaf spinach 1 watermelon 4 sticks salsify
For the celeriac purée 1 whole celeriac 3 banana shallots 1 clove garlic; 1 bay leaf 50g butter 400 ml milk 100 ml double cream For the tarragon jus 4 litres chicken stock Duck carcasses 2 litres red wine ¼ pack tarragon 3 cloves garlic 4 star anise
● Roast duck bones, reserving the wings, then deglaze the pot with half the red wine and add stock. Simmer for 4 hours until flavour is at its fullest. Pass through a fine chiniose. ● To make the tarragon jus, roast off the duck wings. Deglaze with the other half of the red wine. Deglaze with the duck stock. Reduce until it reaches a sauce consistency. Pass through muslin and add tarragon stalks. Infuse until ready to use. ● To prepare the watermelon, peel and cut into 3 inch batons. Roast in a dry, non-stick pan. Reserve. ● Sweat diced shallot, garlic, celeriac and bay leaf in the butter, but do not allow to colour. Add milk and simmer. ● Remove bay leaf. Add cream to milk mixture. Bring back to the boil and
blend until smooth. Pass through a fine chiniose and set aside until ready. ● Peel and wash salsify. Cook in a chicken stock and butter emulsion until tender. ● Roast in honey and butter until nicely glazed. Keep hot until ready to use. ● Cook duck skin-side-down for 6 minutes on a medium heat, in a nonstick frying pan, until golden brown. Turn duck over and place pan in the oven at 200ºC for 8 minutes. Remove from oven and rest for 5 minutes. ● Wilt spinich in a little butter and salt. ● In individual glass teapots, place picked tarragon and 1 star anise per pot. Fill teapot with sauce and serve. ● To assemble, pile everything inside small pots and garnish with dots of purée and fresh parsley. foodies 45
FOODIES FOCUS PRESERVES
REDCURRANT & CHILLI JELLY I adore redcurrants; they make a superb jelly. Try adding the jelly to homemade meatballs — truly delicious! 900g redcurrants, chopped 300ml water 400g sugar 2 medium-sized chillies chopped 3 tbsp red wine vinegar
● Place the washed redcurrants and water in a large saucepan. Simmer gently until the berries are really soft and have released all their juice. ● Spoon the redcurrant pulp into a jelly bag. Place a bowl underneath the jelly bag. Let it strain for several hours or overnight. Leave the pulp in the bag until it is completely dry. Do not try to squeeze the pulp through the bag. If you do, you will get a cloudy jelly. ● Add 400g of sugar to each 600ml of
juice in a pan, along with the chillies. Once the sugar has dissolved, bring it to a steady boil and gently boil for 2–3 minutes. Add the vinegar and continue to boil for approximately 5–8 minutes, until you have reached the setting point. Let the jelly cool for 5 minutes to distribute the chillies, then stir and pour the redcurrant jelly into sterilized jars before sealing. Use within 12 months. Once opened, use within 6 weeks.
PRESERVES FOODIES FOCUS
THE ONE-HOUR MARMALADE Using the whole fruit from the beginning and cooking for only an hour gives a very robust marmalade. 450g navel oranges 750ml water 650g sugar
● Halve the oranges and remove any of the seeds (place the seeds in a muslin bag), and slice the oranges very thinly — if the orange peel is sliced thickly, it will not cook evenly and can become chewy once the sugar is added. Take care to catch all the juice and put in the pan along with all the oranges. Add the water to the pan, along with the muslin bag, and bring
the mixture to the boil. Simmer gently, uncovered, for approximately 45 minutes, or until the orange peel is soft and tender. The contents of the pan should be reduced by half. ● Once you have checked that the peel is soft and tender, add the sugar gradually, stirring until it is dissolved. Remove the muslin bag. Bring the mixture to a full rolling boil; do not stir the marmalade at this stage because this reduces the heat and the setting point. Test the set after 5 minutes. Marmalade has only a brief period when it is at its setting point, so it is imperative that you test early. Once you pass the setting point, there is no return! Keep testing the set and make sure you take the pan off the heat when doing so. ● Once you have a set (either plate or flake test), allow the marmalade to cool for 10 minutes. Then stir to distribute the peel and pour into sterilized jars. Use within 2 years.
From 500 Jams & Preserves by Clippy McKenna, Apple, £9.99 foodies 47
FOODIES FOCUS COOK SCHOOLS NEWS
CHRISTMAS SUGAR MODELLING Mrs. Jones Newlands, Glasgow Tel: 07714 244121 www.mrsjonescakes.co.uk 7th Dec 9:30am-4:00pm, £145 Are you hoping to create a showstopping edible gift for Christmas? Head to Mrs Jones to master the art of cake decorating and sugarcraft. You’ll learn how to model and mold sugar to make impressive and colourful Natvity scenes. Throughout December, other cake decorating classes are available such as decorating cupcakes, Christmas mini cakes and iced sugar cookies.
XMAS CHOCOLATE HEAVEN The Cookery School Merchant City Tel: 0141 552 5239 www.thecookeryschool.org 7th Dec 6:30- 10:00, £42 Head to The Cookery School for a fabulous all-inclusive evening of food, wine and chocolate, commencing with a glass of sparkling wine and a chocolate shot. You’ll then enjoy a starter and main course, plus another glass of wine.
how to make delicious cakes, biscuits and breads, which they can pack up, take home, give away, or recreate all over again on Christmas Day! Suitable for children aged 9-13.
CHRISTMAS COOKIE AND CUPCAKE DECORATING
Then comes the chocolate fun – you will make hand-made chocolates and chocolate fondants. You’ll learn how to temper chocolate and how to make artisan white, milk and dark chocolate truffles.
Edinburgh New Town Cookery School Tel: 0131 226 4314 www.entcs.co.uk 7th Dec 10am – 2pm ENTCS in conjunction with Liggy’s Cakes are offering this four-hour course. This will be an informative class where you will learn a variety of techniques including piping with royal icing, moulding fondant and creating our beautiful sugar Christmas roses!
CHILDREN’S CHRISTMAS BAKING MORNING
MAKE FONDANT CHRISTMAS ICONS
Edinburgh New Town Cookery School Tel: 0131 226 4314 www.entcs.co.uk 19th Dec 9.30am – 1pm, £45 ENTCS is offering a Children’s Christmas Baking Morning for budding chefs. Kids will learn
The Sweetest Thing Tel: 01505 322997 www.thesweetestthing.co.uk 7th and 8th Dec, from £55 Learn how to colour, roll and use fondant to make iconic Christmas figures like Santa and sleigh, Mrs. Claus and Christmassy Grinch.
KITCHEN DESIGN FOODIES FOCUS
Luxe looks Christmas is a time when you crave comfort, tradition and just a little bit of decadence
Countryside Kitchens invest in the finest quality materials and the most experienced craftsmen to build a bespoke kitchen that will last you a lifetime.
Bring the heart back in to your home Visit the Studio at Countryside to see what we can achieve together Countryside Kitchens, 31 Woodmarket, Kelso, TD5 7AT 01573 228030 | www.countrysidekitchens.co.uk | firstname.lastname@example.org Stockists of Farrow & Ball | Wide Range of Contemporary & Classic Floor & Wall Tiles
I find that most people have a deep, resonant sense of home that they long to capture within their walls. It’s not difficult to make homes rich with memories of places we have loved, or perhaps hope to live in the future. Some people do it with furniture from previous homes, or inherited pieces imbued with family history. Others have little need for that, yet still want a home that speaks of accrued experiences, of where they’ve been and where they may be going.
From Interiors: The Romance of Design by Suzanne Tucker, The Monacelli Press, £55
BLYTHSWOOD SPA Get into the festive spirit with Blythswood Spa’s Gingerbread Rhassoul experience. This luxurious treatment promises to calm your nerves, soothe your mind and detox your body by combining the benefits and therapeutic properties of mud and steam. The exfoliating husks of nutrient-packed Himalayan salts will remove rough, winter cells and reveal smooth, glowing skin, ready for the Christmas break. The intoxicating smell of gingerbread will overwhelm your senses as a cinnamon-scented clay mud mask is poured over your entire body. After 20 minutes, the steam chamber will release a flow of warm water onto its ceramic seats, softening the mud as well as coaxing toxins to leave the body. The powerful healing qualities of the salt exfoliation and mud will leave your skin soft and nourished. £70, 11 Blythswood Square, Glasgow, G2 4AD, 0141 248 8888
THE BALMORAL SPA
A dry infra-red sauna at the Floatarium’s Warming Spa Pamper helps shrug off the cold weather. This is followed by a hot stone massage and a mineral and vitamin facial. £85, 29 North West Circus Place, Edinburgh, EH3 6TP, 0131 225 3350
Give your tired feet a treat and a proper pampering before Christmas with the Balmoral’s Mistle-toes and Glühwein Deluxe pedicure. Using the coveted ZenSpa enzyme scrub and silkening soufflé, and with warm and cozy thermal booties and a glass of warmed Glühwein
upon arrival, it’s the ultimate foot pampering and a chance to relax in comfort.. This 70 minute treatment includes two coats of polish on your twinkling toes. £45, ZenSpa, 1 Princes St, Edinburgh, EH2 2EQ, Tel: 0131 556 2414 foodies 55
Xmas cheers Wish your friends a slightly more sophisticated wassail with these cheeky cocktails
CHOCOLATE AND CHILLI PONY Available at Hamiltons Edinburgh You dont need to buy expensive cocktail shakers – any container with a tight fitting lid, such as a large jam jar will work well here 37.5ml Glenmorangie 12.5ml Maraschino liqueur 12.5ml Orgeat 2-3 thin slices of fresh red chilli Chocolate stout – we use Brooklyn Black chocolate stout ● Put the whisky, Maraschino, Orgeat and chilli into a shaker with cubed ice. ● Shake well and pour over ice into a chilled glass or tankard. ● Top up with the chocolate stout.
BLUE COLLAR JULEP Available at Treacle Edinburgh 37.5ml American whiskey – we used Gentleman Jack 12.5ml Apricot brandy 5ml honey Half a peach Splash of cloudy apply juice Juice of half a lemon ● Make the cinnamon syrup by heating caster sugar and water in a pan with a few cinnamon sticks. Allow it to heat until the sugar is disolved and the cinnamon infused. Allow to cool. ● In a glass or metal tin, muddle the peach to break it down. Add the cinnamon syrup, American whiskey, apricot, honey and lemon juice. ● Half fill the glass or tin with crushed ice and swizzle to mix all the ingredients ● Add a splash of apple juice and top with more crushed ice. ● Serve with a straw and a garnish of your choice.
GINGERBREAD OLD FASHIONED Available at The Blackbird Edinburgh Gingerbread 50ml Appletons VX 5ml sugar syrup (just disolve caster sugar in hot water)
1 slice root ginger 3 splashes old-fashioned bitters
● To infuse the rum, break up some gingerbread and place in a large, deep tray. Pour over a bottle of rum and allow to soak for 3-4 hours. ● Strain the rum and gingerbread mixture through some muslin or cheese cloth into a decanter. It will be cloudy at first but will settle over the course of a few hours. This will keep for the entire Christmas period. ● In a large mixing glass, add a slice of root ginger and muddle with a wooden muddler or the back of a large spoon to release the oils. ● Add syrup, bitters and infused rum. Stir with cubed ice to blend all the ingredients and to chill the mixture. ● Strain with a tea strainer and serve - either over cubed ice or straight up in a sherry glass.
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RESTAURANT REVIEW BLACKWOODS
BLACKWOODS WORDS SUE HITCHEN
ET WITHIN A GEORGIAN terrace just up the hill from Stockbridge, Blackwoods restaurant has the atmosphere of a luxurious gentleman’s club with comfy velvet chairs, dark wall coverings, glass cases full of leatherbound books and decanters. We were greeted by Marek, the head waiter, who made us very welcome and explained that all ingredients are locally sourced, with bread from Peters Yard and shellfish from Welch Fishmongers. The lobster in my ravioli had been driven down from the West Coast earlier that day. Bread was served with a trio of homemade butters – truffle , chive and salt. An amuse bouche of layers of venison loin and black pudding awaited us next, beautifully presented on slate. For his first course, Jeremy ordered the special, a confit of pheasant with celeriac mash and wild mushrooms which had been cooked in the Josper oven (the pride of the restaurant) and was so tender it was falling off the bone.
Blackwoods Bar & Grill at Nira Caledonia, 6 Gloucester Place Edinburgh EH3 6EF Tel: 0131 225 2720 www. niracaledonia.com Three courses £32
My fillet steak, supplied by Highland Drovers of Perth, was charred on the outside, juicy, tender and rare to order all the way. Jeremy’s Peelham Farm lamb cutlets were crispy on the outside, tender and pink on the inside with a wonderful carmelised charcoal edge. The accompanying Mediterranean vegetables (also Jospered) had lost none of their sweetness. For dessert we chose crêpes suzette flambéed with Grand Marnier and served with raspberries, and ended with a selection of Scottish cheeses that raised the bar in cheeseboards – Dunsyre blue, Hebridean herb cheddar, Jezebel goats milk brie and Caboc cream cheese. ●
TRIED AND TREW RESTAURANTS AND BARS WORDS JONATHAN TREW
What’s New Award-winning Scottish chef Mark Greenaway will open his second restaurant, this time in Edinburgh’s Stockbridge. Bistro Moderne by Mark Greenaway will take the classic French bistro concept and revitalise it with imaginative, locallysourced ingredients. There will also be a dessert bar and a 5-course grazing menu on offer, as well as Sunday roasts. Bistro Moderne will be one of the few fine dining restaurants in Edinburgh to open seven days a week, serving lunch and dinner. Breakfast will be served FridaySunday. 15 North West Circus Place, Edinburgh, EH3 65X 0131 225 6631 www.bistromoderne.co.uk
BREAD MEATS BREAD GLASGOW The name here tells you most of what you need to know about this fresh kitchen and bar. It serves up posh beef, chicken and pork sarnie variants along with fine burgers, craft ales and organic wines. BMB is firmly in the new street food camp so all the ingredients are ethically sourced and prepped from scratch in-house. 104 St Vincent Street, Glasgow, G2 5UB www.breadmeatsbread.co.uk
SIMPLY FISH GLASGOW Replacing La Famiglia in Glasgow’s West End, Simply Fish is a new venture from Nico Simeone, a past winner of the Young Seafood Chef of the Year award. The restaurant runs a two course day menu at £9.95 while two courses from the a la carte start at around £16. Choices run from the house fish pie to Thai fishcakes and herb-
crusted cod served on white beans and mussels with a lobster bisque. Simply Fish is quickly shaping up to be a West End favourite. 111 Cleveden Road, Kelvinside, Glasgow G12 0JU Tel: 0141 334 0111 www.simplyfishglasgow.com
HARAJUKU KITCHEN EDINBURGH A familiar face at the farmers’ markets of the Central Belt, Kaori Tsuji-Simpson has just launched a Japanese restaurant, deli and takeaway in Tollcross. Drawing on three generations of Japanese culinary heritage, Kaori promises freshly made sushi, gyoza dumplings, noodle broths, tempura and bento boxes along with daily specials. Local produce is to the fore with ingredients like free range Scottish chickens used for the karaage or fried chicken. 10 Gillespie Place, Edinburgh EH10 4HS Tel: 0131 281 0526 www.harajukukitchen.co.uk
Before Dick McWhittington’s Panto at the SECC in Glasgow, head to Bar Soba for a special holiday cocktail
FESTIVE WINE A Sticky End Noble Sauvignon Blanc 2011, £15.99, Majestic Wine Tasty dessert wine: a perfect match for mince pies. Marques de Casa Concha Syrah 2010, £11.99 Tesco Deep, dark and flavoursome. Plaimont Producteurs Réserve des Tuguets 2010 AOC Madiran, £11.99 Tesco This ruby-coloured wine is an ideal winter warmer.
Cook your bird slower and at a lower temperature to keep it succulent. Source the best ingredients you can, and keep it simple. Craig Sandle, The Pompadour, Edinburgh Always have a jar of marmite in the larder! – Whether you love it or hate it, marmite enhances gravies and sauces. It’s also an invaluable source of vitamin B Marcello Tully, Kinloch Lodge, Isle of Skye
Shred your sprouts and cook with chestnuts, bacon and garlic cloves in a frying pan. Neil Forbes, Café St Honore, Edinburgh
Top of the tree Let Scotland’s best chefs add a little extra festive sparkle to your Christmas menu this year
Preparation, organisation, delegation and plenty of sherry! •Rest the bird for as long as you cooked the bird: it will still be warm and will be easier to carve and more succulent. John Quigley Red Onion, Glasgow
Pop vacuum-packed chestnuts into a pot of simmering water for 2 minutes before opening to separate them easily. Graham Pallister 63 Tay Street, Perth
There’s more to stuffing than sage and onion, so visit your local butcher and try something a little more adventurous this year. Mark Greenaway, Bistro Moderne by Mark Greenaway, Edinburgh
OUT AND ABOUT FOODIES FOCUS
Out & About
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ST. ANDREWS FOOD FAIR Throughout November, St. Andrews held pop up restaurants, chef demonstrations and live music.
HELLO WEST! Carol Smillie helps relaunch the West End of Edinburgh
WINE FUNDRAISER Scott Davies, head chef of The Adamson in St. Andrews and a star of MasterChef Professionals, held a wine fundraiser in support of Maggieâ€™s, Fife. 66 foodies
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